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Cologne & Northern Rhineland

Cologne & Northern Rhineland

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Cologne &

NorthernPOP 17.8 MILLION () Rhineland

Includes  Why Go? Cologne...... 463 Cologne’s iconic Dom has twin towers that might as well be ...... 479 twin exclamation points after the word ‘welcome’. Flowing ...... 486 behind the cathedral, the Rhine River provides a vital link Düsseldorf...... 492 for some of the ’s highlights: Düsseldorf, with its great nightlife and fabulous shopping, and Bonn, which hums to ...... 506 Beethoven. Away from the river, Aachen still echoes to the Münster...... 512 beat of the Holy and . Osnabrück...... 518 Much of Germany’s 20th-century economic might stemmed from the Northern Rhineland industrial region known as the Ruhrgebiet. Now cities such as Essen are transforming old steelworks and mines into cultural centres and more, Dortmund is embracing its amazing foot- Best Places to ball record and literally scoring with it, while ancient Mün- Eat ster is a hive of students on bikes day and night, making it ¨¨Salon Schmitz (p474) endlessly interesting and vibrant. ¨¨Altes Gasthaus Leve (p517) ¨¨Bistrot B (p474) When to Go ¨¨Münstermann Kontor Sure it’s cold in December but Cologne’s Christmas market (p499) will warm you up. Just a couple of months later, the city’s ¨¨Holstein’s Bistro (p517) is one of ’s best. Although the region has plenty of beer gardens and restaurants that delight with warm-weather tables, much of what’s best happens indoors so you really can visit at any time. The best reason to come Best Museums in summer might be for walks along the Rhine, hikes in the ¨¨Römisch-Germanisches National Park or partying in Münster’s parks. Museum (p471) ¨¨Beethoven-Haus Bonn (p479) ¨¨Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen (p493) ¨¨Museum Folkwang (p507) ¨¨Felix-Nussbaum-Haus (p519) 463 Cologne & Northern Rhineland CSightologns e

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among the cathe . ov-Apr, tower 9am-6pm tower Nov-Apr, .30pm pièce de résistance de pièce (adult/concession €8/6; (adult/concession

Other highlights include the Gero Cru the 95m-high climb up to During your €1 in visit, invest get more out of your To The The Dom is Germany’s largest cathedral largest The Dom is Germany’s This continues inside, where sensation Construction began in 1248 in the French ConstructionFrench the in 1248 began in 30pm Sun Apr-Oct, Apr-Oct, 2 .30pm Sun .30am & 2 .30pm Mon-Sat, Cologne’s geographical and spiritual heart and spiritual geographical – Cologne’s – is the single-biggestand its tourist draw soaringits With Dom. Kölner magnificent of cathe this is the Mt Everest spires, twin 9pm May-Oct, to 7 to May-Oct, 9pm ov-Feb) 4pm N to Oct, & Mar-Apr 5pm to May-Sep, peror Barbarossa’s chancellor and instantly chancellor peror Barbarossa’s site. pilgrimage a major Cologne into turned monumental size notable for its (970), cifix achieved rarely and an emotional intensity stalls the choir in those early medieval days; from 1310, richly carved from oak; and the by Cologne artistaltar painting (c 1450) Stephan Lochner. and ad a breather viewing take platform, Bell (1923), the larg mire the 24-tonne Peter bell in the world. est free-swinging working pamphlet information the a join or rary artist Gerhard the transept. Richter in 72in squares 11,500 of kaleidoscope A col abstractbeen design has ours, Richter’s afternoon the In light’. of ‘symphony a called when the sun hits it just so, it’s especially, easy to understand why. bevy of treasures is the Shrine of the dral’s a richly Three Kings behind the main altar, bejewelled and gilded sarcophagus said to hold the remains of the kings who followed the star to the stable in Bethlehem where Thewas born. spiritedwere bones Jesus by Em of war spoils as 1164 in of Milan out drals, jam-packed with art jam-packed and treasures.drals, 533 steps climb the upexercise an fix, For base of the to the south tower the Dom’s dwarfedsteeple that Europe all buildings in built a certain in tower Eiffel until Gustave Thevisitor Domforum underground Paris. source of info and tickets. centre is a good itsand must be circled to truly appreciate how its lacy spires and fly dimensions. Note of lightness a sensation create ing buttresses despite its mass and height. and fragility arches supportsa phalanx of pillars and Softthrough the light filters the lofty nave. a medievalstained-glass well as windows by contempo much-lauded recent window tour Gothic but proceeded slowly and was style less often other times) other often less 10 ------koel .koel 6am- L THEDRA h

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de; includes most and of the museums Sights Altstadt Dom Kölner See www.romanische-kirchen-koeln.de for See www.romanische-kirchen-koeln.de Cologne is like a 3D textbook on historyCologne is like 0221 / POP1 MILLION Cologne Cathedral; Cologne COLOGNE ( ums. The Plan on at least a couple days to explore Co least a couple days Plan on at sights. The of maintains wealth city logne’s (www.museenkoeln. an excellent website muse de) with info on most Cologne’s of o manesque churches, which were constructedmanesque churches, which were survivedand 1250, and 1150 between largely beenintact until WWII. About a dozen have archi unique many rebuilt since and offer if you’re tectural and artistic Even features. pushed for time, try least a couple seeing at of the ones mentioned here. info on all the churches. good dieval heyday is reflecteddieval heyday of Ro in its wealth 1 The two bank between Altstadt hugs the river and Deutzer Hohenzollernbrücke bridges, or more can spend half a day You Brücke. me just strolling and soaking it in. Cologne’s 1 €18/30) dition it solidified in the Middle Ages and Ages in the Middle dition it solidified continues to uphold today. dieval galore, nondescript postwar churches structures and even abuildings, avant-garde new postmodernquarter Rhine. right on the fourth-largest founded was city Germany’s loftythe given and BC 38 in the Romans by name Colonia Claudia Aggripinensium. Ara grew centre, a tra It trading into a major and architecture. Drifting about town you’ll stumble upon an ancient Roman wall, me um landscape is especially strongum landscape it when art,to comes somethinghas also but storein sportsfor fans of chocolate, and even Roman known for theirwell people are Its history. easy to and joie de vivre, and it’s liberalism time right along with them year- a good have of the Altstadtround in the beer halls (old Carnival. town) or during the springtime % at endless seemingly offers (Köln) Cologne whosetractions,cathedral famous by its led It’s the skyline. dominate spires twin filigree single most the country’s regularly voted muse The city’s popular tourist attraction. . ner-dom is good for two consecutive days. for two is good