THE PUBLICATION OF THE SOCIETY Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 31, No. Vol

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Tyggrve Gran – Endurance on Ice and in War Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 Issue 223

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is published quarterly by the New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc. ISSN 0003-5327

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ASSISTANT EDITOR: Janet Bray INDEXER: Mike Wing NEWS Antarctic Round Up 1 PRINTED BY: Excel Digital, Wellington This publication is printed using vegetable- EDUCATION Experience living and working in based inks onto media gloss, which is a stock through the Postgraduate sourced from sustainable forests with PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certificate in Antarctic Studies 3 Certification), EMAS (The EU Eco-Management & Audit Scheme) & ISO accreditations. HISTORY Heroic Era Antarctic Explorers in Antarctic is distributed in flow biowrap. World War I 4 Edward Atkinson’s skis returned to Patron of the New Zealand Antarctic Society: Patron: Professor Peter Barrett, 2008. The Antarctic Heritage Trust 9 Immediate Past Patron: Sir . SCIENCE Investigating Bromine Explosion NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY Events in Antarctica 11 LIFE MEMBERS The Society recognises with life membership, those people who excel in furthering the ARTS A Father For My Son 12 aims and objectives of the Society or who have given outstanding service in Antarctica. TRIBUTE John Macdonald 13 They are elected by vote at the Annual General Meeting and are restricted to 15 life EVENTS Oamaru Scott 100 – a personal view 14 members at any time.

Current Life Members by the year elected: BOOK REVIEW Tide Cracks and Sastrugi 16 1. Bernard Stonehouse (UK), 1966 2. John Claydon (Canterbury), 1980 3. Jim Lowery (Wellington), 1982 4. Robin Ormerod (Wellington), 1996 5. Eric Gibbs (Wellington), 1997 6. Baden Norris (Canterbury), 2003 7. Bill Cranfield (Canterbury), 2003 8. Randal Heke (Wellington), 2003 9. Bill Hopper (Wellington), 2004 10. Malcolm Laird (Canterbury), 2006 11. Arnold Heine (Wellington), 2006 Cover photo: 12. Margaret Bradshaw (Canterbury), 2006 Tyggrve Gran, December 1911. Photograph by Frank Debenham. Image courtesy Canterbury Museum:2003.84.10 13. Ray Dibble (Wellington), 2008 14. Norman Hardie (Canterbury), 2008 15. Vacant Issue 223 NEWS

Antarctic Round Up

General great-grandson) travelled to Portrait of Antarctica – on one of the first C-17 Globemaster Antarctic Youth Ambassador forty years on flight last spring to take up a role as Since 1957 youth have visited Antarctica This talk at Unitec in Auckland was Field Training Instructor for the summer with the New Zealand Antarctic presented by Jonathan Walton who has season with Antarctica New Zealand. Programme. The Antarctic Youth been involved in Antarctic events for 40 years including over eight visits to the Ambassador scheme aims to engage Ice. Three generations of his family have young New Zealanders in Antarctic January worked in the Antarctic and as far as environmental issues. Application 2013 Shackleton Epic he knows they are the only father and forms and background information can A team of six led by Tim Jarvis have son combination to have received the be found on the Sir Peter Blake Trust successfully re-enacted Shackleton’s . He described the scientific website. Applications close on 30 May journey in the James Caird including work he did for months at a time, living 2013. For more information see: http:// traversing South Georgia Island in tents and travelling by skidoo. His www.sirpeterblaketrust.org/blake- to reach Stromness. The men used illustrated talk told anecdotes of his leaders/antarctic-youth-ambassadors/ reproduction equipment and clothing many visits south including his most to that of the expedition 100 years recent visit as a lecturer on board the Four Generations of Antarctican’s before and used a replica lifeboat for MV Ocean Nova. the journey, navigating with sextants. More information can be found at New Antarctic Trail http://www.timjarvis.org/shackletonepic/ for Christchurch Members from The New Zealand Antarctic Society Canterbury Branch worked with the Christchurch City Council to create a new Antarctic heritage trail for Christchurch. This was necessary due to the number of places on the existing trail which either no longer exists or are not accessible since Four generations of Antarctican’s. Image courtesy Grant Hunter. the earthquakes. The new trail takes in some of the lessor known Antarctic Anne Hunter sent in this photograph related sites such as domestic dwellings showing four generations in her family on Park Terrace, St Saviour’s Anglican who have connections to Antarctica. Church and Linwood Cemetery. The They are posed with ’s Tim Jarvis, Leader of the Shackleton Epic team. trail pamphlet is available from the Frozen exhibition hosted by Canterbury Christchurch City Council. Museum in association with IceFest, February September - October 2012. Second to left Bond Street Explorers at the back of Ponting’s photograph is The Sculpting Scott Club Tour – Lyttelton William (Bill) McDonald, Able Seaman, Mark Stocker from the Department A musical event with a difference was expedition 1911-12 and of History and Art History at the held in the Wunderbar on 1912-13. His son Alan McDonald, University of Otago gave a talk Street, Lyttelton, Christchurch when an seated, did not travel to Antarctica but at Canterbury Museum titled The Auckland based alternative-folk music ‘talked’ many aircraft southward during Sculpting Scott. He discussed the art group Bond Street Bridge performed his 40 years working in communications and life of (1878-1947) a multi-media song cycle titled The with the Civil Aviation Authority at including her visits to New Zealand Explorer’s Club: Antarctica. Christchurch International Airport. and the other talented people she Alan’s daughter Anne (Hunter) travelled associated with. These ranged from The performance presented a series of by ship to Antarctica in 2001, and Francis Bacon to Lawrence of Arabia, vignettes - tales of courage, endurance visited again in the 2006-07 season to . Stocker described and Edwardian pluck inspired by the when studying for the University of Kathleen as “the most famous widow diaries and letters of Canterbury’s Graduate Certificate in in the English speaking world after the and . The spoken- Antarctic Studies. Her son Richie (Bill’s of Queen Victoria”. word storytelling and original folk song

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 1 NEWS

combination was illustrated with projected Antarctic Link Canterbury meeting Korean Polar Research Institute will images from Auckland artist Emily Carter Antarctic Link Canterbury was formed in focus on are; polar climate change, and photographs from the expeditions. 2000 by founder members: Christchurch biodiversity and adaptation of polar City Council, Antarctica New Zealand, organisms, studies of tectonic structures The event organisers expected that Gateway Antarctica, International and investigations into new emerging “audiences can expect to be transported Antarctic Centre, Christchurch and science including ice core drilling and back to a time when the ice was Canterbury Marketing. Since then the meteorite studies. unforgiving, the Pole was untouched, organisation has flourished, supporting the Antarctic Festival, commissioning an and if the worst came to the worst, one economic impact study and welcoming could always eat the dogs”. new members including the United States Antarctic Programme, Council of Scott Centenary Celebrations – Managers of National Antarctic Program Oamaru (COMNAP), the National Institute of The Scott 100 celebrations were well Water & Atmospheric Research (NIWA), attended in Oamaru and commemorated the Antarctic Heritage Trust (AHT), Heritage Expeditions and the New the arrival of the Terra Nova on 10th Zealand Antarctic Society. February 1913 into Oamaru Harbour bearing the news of the and the fate of the Polar

Party. Over five days the harbour town Dongmin Jin, Base Manager for Jan Bojo Station. hosted many events including sea and Image courtesy Korean Polar Research Institute. land activities, education and adventure programmes, art, literature and lectures. June Jenny Coverack travelled from the UK to Oamaru to deliver two performances of Australian/New Zealand Antarctic her one woman play, A Father for my Son Conference in Hobart which is based on the life of Kathleen Scott. Registration is now open for the Strategic Science in Antarctica conference to be held from 24 to 26 June 2013 at the March University of Tasmania in Hobart. The Capital E National Arts Festival, Jan Bojo Station. Image courtesy Korean Polar inaugural conference is a collaboration Wellington Research Institute. between the Australian Antarctic This substantial festival included events Division and Antarctica New Zealand, and will feature a number of key note from inspired by both the and The March meeting included a speakers, science presentations, poster Antarctic. The Java Dance Company presentation from Hong Kum Lee of the displays and social functions. A series of performed Down Below Beneath, Korean Polar Research Institute (KOPRI). post-conference workshops will also take inspired by a Morgan Foundation The presentation gave an overview of place on 27 and 28 June. Project, Our Far South, which aimed to the Institute which is supported by the Korean Government. KOPRI’s main raise awareness of the The conference will provide an functions are science, raising awareness and the sub-Antarctic area. opportunity for Antarctic scientists, of Antarctica, collaborating with overseas researchers, policy and support institutes and providing the Korean personnel from institutions across Government with advice on polar Australia and New Zealand to exchange affairs. Their the Araon was delivered to KOPRI in 2009 and has since information on existing and planned completed annual bipolar voyages. Araon research, management and policy has so far completed four expeditions to priorities and to identify opportunities the Antarctic. The presentation included for further collaboration. images of Jang Bogo Station which was under construction in the 2012 – 2013 Abstract submission is open until 8 season. Dongmin Jin has been confirmed April, and early bird registration rates as the first Base Manager. The Station will are available until 10 May. A special house 15 personnel over winter and can reduced registration rate is available for accommodate 50 scientists during the full-time students. Visit the conference summer seasons. website for further information, to view the call for abstracts or to register: Photo from advert for Down Below Beneath performance. The four key research areas which the http://conference.antarctica.gov.au/

2 Issue 223 EDUCATION

Experience living and working in Antarctica through the Postgraduate Certificate in Antarctic Studies Jointly developed by the University of Canterbury and Antarctica New Zealand, this unique summer programme is the only programme in the world to take you to experience life in the Antarctic.

he programme runs for 15 weeks starting in November Antarctic Studies requires a full-time commitment from the each year, and critically examines contemporary participants. Assessments include a literature review, syndicate Tscientific, environmental, social and political debates presentation and report, field reports, a personal experience focussed on Antarctica and the Southern Ocean. New project and a major individual research project on an area of Zealand and international experts teach on the programme interest. Topics to research can range from current issues in which involves lectures, presentations, workshops and the natural sciences to social science topics, historical analyses student-led symposia as well as fieldtrips to Antarctic venues in or an engagement with Antarctic literature or arts. Fieldwork Christchurch, a first-aid course and a two-day excursion to the in Antarctica includes a mix of analytical and interpretive field Canterbury high country. The highlight is a visit to Antarctica, projects and environmental monitoring. where you spend around ten days at Scott Base and a field We invite you to join a diverse group of students and campsite on the . staff and engage in a highly innovative and personally Participants come from a range of backgrounds, including rewarding experience. science, arts, humanities, law, policy, commerce, engineering, social sciences and technology. They generally wish to Applications for the 2013 – 2014 summer course close on broaden their understanding of Antarctic related matters, or 1 August 2013. are professional people who are employed or plan to work in positions or organisations where their contribution would be enhanced by the experience and skills gained from completing For more information: the programme. To be eligible to enrol, you need an approved degree • View the Gateway Antarctica website (or equivalent) and have to pass a medical (prescribed by http://www.anta.canterbury.ac.nz/courses/gcas/ Antarctica New Zealand) for the fieldtrip to Antarctica. • Contact the Programme Coordinator Entry into the programme is competitive as student numbers ([email protected]) or are limited to 16 each year. Administrator ([email protected]). To successfully complete the Postgraduate Certificate in

Christchurch-bound: Boarding a US Air Force Hercules (28 December 2012). Image courtesy Daniela Liggett.

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 3 HISTORY

Heroic Era Antarctic Explorers in World War I by Kat Moody By Kat Moody

Until fairly recently I worked as a Collections Technician at Canterbury Museum, often working closely with the Heroic Era Antarctic collections. Coming from a background in military museums I kept wondering what these Heroic Era explorers had done during the World War I. Many of them had backgrounds in the forces, usually the Navy, and were of the right age to serve in the war. There didn’t appear to be much published specifically on this topic – could more be said than simple biography? What follows in this article is an overview of my initial research; an attempt to find themes around this topic which could potentially be taken further.

undertook my research around the A little over a month after theme of endurance, something Amundsen, on 17 , Scott, Iexplorers know all about, as well Edward ‘Uncle Bill’ Wilson, Lawrence as anyone involved in a war. A recent ‘Titus’ Oates, Henry ‘Birdie’ Bowers and supplement article which appeared Edgar ‘Taff’ Evans reached the Pole only in The Press newspaper highlighted to discover they had been beaten. They the connection between Antarctica, perished on the return journey, first Christchurch and endurance. This Evans, then Oates – who went outside connection was again emphasised during to walk to his death in a blizzard. Scott, the IceFest festival held biannually in Bowers and Wilson died in their tent, Christchurch. Canterbury connections only a few miles from a food depot that in the Heroic Era included Lyttelton as could have saved them. Ernest Shackleton during the Imperial Trans Antarctic the last port of call for of expeditions Expedition. Image courtesy Canterbury Museum: 1974.117.23. on their way south, including Ernest Also on the Terra Nova expedition, Shackleton’s Expedition in was the Norwegian ski expert, Tryggve 1907 and Robert Falcon Scott’s Terra Gran. In the diary he kept, he notes the Nova Expedition in 1910. growing tensions in Europe:

My initial research looked at the 26/4/12 Among other things we war experience of some members of discussed the possibility of war two famous expeditions; the Terra Nova between and . expedition and Shackleton’s 1914-1916 One thing I now understand clearly: Imperial TransAntarctic Expedition. the seamen of England are deeply The story of what happened on suspicious of the Fatherland. the Terra Nova expedition is well known. In short this was an expedition On 13/1/1913 the return of the that intended to combine science with Terra Nova to the Ice brought news that an attempt to reach the , “the Serbs, Bulgars and Montenegrins but became a race to the pole when have thrashed the Turks”. This was Norwegian announced the First Balkan War which was the he was also making for 90 degrees south. last fracturing of the Ottoman Empire Norway had only become independent before the world war broke out. of Sweden in 1905, and although it was neutral during the war was yet another Captain Oates, a member of the new nation state making a name for itself landed gentry and a cavalry officer in the first few decades of the twentieth who had been injured in the Boer War, century. Therefore, when Amundsen’s bought his way onto the expedition, Jens Tryggve Herman Gran MC (January 20, 1889 - party became the first to reach the South as did Apsley Cherry-Garrard whose January 8, 1980), Norwegian aviator, explorer and author, member of Robert Falcon Scott’s Antarctic Pole on 14 December 1911, he helped to family had come into money when expedition of 1910-1913, the Terra Nova Expedition. define the emerging nation. he was a boy. One of the youngest Image reference:SPRI -P2005/5/1171.

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members of the expedition, he was given the role of assistant zoologist. Deeply traumatised by his perceived failure to rescue the Polar Party when sent out to look for them in , and by his experiences on the winter journey to collect emperor penguin eggs - both of which he later covered in his classic 1922 memoir The Worst Journey in the World - he presents an intense and earnest character. In a later letter to The Times 10/10/1919 he brings attention to one of the new forms of technology that was used on the expedition and which was later introduced to the war:

Sir – it is only right to point out that an early and practical forerunner of the tanks was used by Scott in the Antarctic…We had 3 [tracked motor-sledges]; one of them sank into the sea, but the two survivors, after doing excellent work on sea-ice, were driven on the polar journey by Day and Lashly under blighting conditions and with considerable success. Fetch one of these two derelicts off the barrier, and case it in armour and you would have something very like the modern tank, which is largely an imitation of our old friends. With Churchill at the Admiralty and Scott alive tanks would have been in action long before September 1915[sic]. Apsley Cherry-Garrard portrait by Herbert Ponting. Image courtesy Canterbury Museum:19XX.2.5092. Cherry, as he was known, rather exaggerates their success, but certainly The legacy of Scott’s expedition photographer also took of the the tracked Wolseley motor-sledges during the Great War has been well expedition which went on to be shown were a signpost on the journey toward covered in at least two books: Antarctic to over 100,000 officers and men during tanks and to modern snowmobiles Destinies by Stephanie Barczewski and the war. In response, the Senior Chaplain and the like. His involvement with The Last Great by Max Jones. to the Forces Reverend F I Anderson Antarctic exploration and experience , in his biography sent Ponting a letter of appreciation: of motor-sledges led to him being of Scott, Race to the Pole, notes that granted a temporary commission in the “through two world wars, the Scott I cannot tell you what a tremendous RNVR and serving with 5 Squadron story was used as a heroic example of delight your are to thousands RNAS (Armoured Car Division). The how to live and how to face death when of our troops. The splendid story squadron had some success on the fighting for your country.” It is also of Captain Scott is just the thing Western Front in the first half of 1915, reported that the widowed Kathleen Scott to cheer and encourage out here… but as his biographer Sara Wheeler received many letters from servicemen The thrilling story of Oates’ self- describes “once the battle lines had telling her that “they could never have sacrifice, to try and give his friends been established and the trenches dug, faced the dangers and hardships of the a chance of getting through, is one opportunities for vehicles that had to war had they not learned to do so from that appeals so at the present time. stick to roads were severely limited.” her dead husband’s teaching.” It would The intensity of its appeal is realised Some armoured cars were sent to be interesting to know if the tone of by the subdued hush and quiet Gallipoli and Egypt, but 5 Squadron was these letters changed over the duration of that pervades the mass audience sent back to Britain to await instruction the war, but the story of perceived heroic of the troops while it is being told. and was eventually disbanded. Cherry sacrifice and endurance in the face of We all feel we have inherited from was not to see further active service a hopeless situation proved a comfort Oates and his comrades a legacy due to ulcerative colitis which he had to some. and heritage of inestimable value in contracted in Antarctica. Herbert Ponting, the expedition seeing though our present work.

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Edward Evans at Glacier Tongue, January 1911. Photograph by Herbert Ponting. Robert Falcon Scott during the Terra Nova expedition. Image courtesy Cantebury Museum: 19XX.2.5074. Image courtesy Canterbury Museum.

ski expert is pro-German as well.’ It was probably during this time A Biblical quotation that is Bowers lapped up his soup, which that he came to the attention of Cecil sometimes associated with Captain exuded an appetising smell up Lewis, author of the classic RFC Oates is: ‘Greater love has no man under the roof of the tent. ‘I bet you memoir Sagittarius Rising who records than this, that a man lays down his my portion of soup, Oates, that if that “a good-looking Norwegian, life for his friends.’ This was also war comes Gran will volunteer with who somehow or other had joined the used as a memorial inscription on us against the Germans.’ ‘Will you?’ RFC was the host in one of the many many Commonwealth War Graves asked Oates. ‘Of course’ I answered parties we used to hold in town on our Commission headstones, and represents and shook him by the hand. off-night.” But whilst Gran was a good a common theme of sacrifice. party host he was not free of suspicion: Oates’s influence was also felt much After the expedition returned, the “That Norwegian [remarked Lewis’s closer to home. In Norwegian Tryggve adventurous Gran had learnt to fly and friend one day] he’s a spy. He’ll go. Gran’s memoir he records: on 30 July 1914 became the first person You’ll see.” Gran moved on from home to fly across the North Sea flying in a defence and served overseas with 101 For days a dreadful storm had Blériot monoplane. Not surprisingly Squadron, a night bomber unit equipped raged over the desert of ice and this feat was overshadowed by the with FE2Bs. Gran, however, was issued our tent sank deeper and deeper countdown to war. Gran remembered with a Sopwith Pup B2188 and was into the snowdrifts. Captain Oates, his promise to Oates and applied to assigned special duties, although still Lieutenant Bowers and I had join the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) taking part in some bombing raids. This been passing the time discussing but at that stage was turned down on is all rather murky, but the Pup appears politics. For the sake of argument account of his nationality. Instead he to have had some kind of side car fixture I drew attention to Germany’s joined the newly founded Norwegian on the fuselage which may have used to growing strength – in her army Flying Corps. Strings were pulled and drop spies off behind enemy lines. In and navy. [On went the discussion after a period observing the RFC on early 1918 he was awarded the MC for and Bowers said] ‘You know, Titus behalf of the Norwegians, Gran was “for conspicuous gallantry and devotion – for so he called Oates – if there eventually accepted into the RFC in to duty. He bombed enemy aeroplanes is a war and you a general – both October 1916 using the name Teddy with great success, and engaged enemy Trigger and I will join up with the Grant. Initially, he spent time with searchlights, transport and other targets Inniskilling Dragoons.’ ‘Nonsense’ Home Defence squadron’s night flying with machine gun fire. He invariably replied Oates, ‘all foreigners are against Zeppelin incursions. showed the greatest determination anti-British and your Norwegian and resource.” He also served with the

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Allied Intervention Force in Russia and Eventually, after many hours, later recorded: stayed in the RAF after the war, but he found his way back to the hut. following a serious motorbike accident Whether Atkinson agreed with According to many the war would in 1921 he resigned his commission. Cherry’s speculation is unknown, but be over within six months. And so it demonstrates that in the Antarctic we left, not without regret that we Gran’s war service is probably the nature is the enemy. could not take our place there, but most striking of all those on the Terra secure in the knowledge that we were Nova expedition. Many were serving This theme of Antarctic warfare taking part in a strenuous campaign naval men and effectively went back is something that was picked up by for the credit of our country. to their day jobs. Harry Pennell, the Sir Ernest Shackleton, who dedicated, Captain of the Terra Nova, went down South, his account of the Endurance The war was never far from the with the ship he was commanding, HMS expedition to “my comrades, who fell in thoughts of the expedition, who passed Queen Mary, at the Battle of Jutland. the white warfare of the south and on some of their time speculating on what Edward ‘Teddy’ Evans, Scott’s second the red fields of France and Flanders.” may have happened: in command and who nearly died of Shackleton’s intent on this expedition in Antarctica was awarded the was to make the first crossing the We hoped that the Germans had DSO for his command of the destroyer Antarctic continent. The main body already been driven from France HMS Broke. Together with another of the party would go south via South and that the Russian Armies had ship, HMS Broke engaged six German America, start their crossing from the put a seal on the Allies’ success. destroyers about to attack Dover. Max area and make towards the The war was a constant subject of Jones records what happened next: where another small party of discussion aboard the Endurance, “After some bloody hand to hand men (sailing south on the Aurora) would and many campaigns were fought fighting, three of the German destroyers be waiting, having laid supply depots on the map during the long months were sunk, three retreated and more than for the main party. The Endurance of drifting. 100 prisoners were taken. Remember the became trapped in pack ice, sank and Lusitania! Evans was reported to have the entire party was eventually rescued After their epic open boat journey shouted to the Germans clamouring to after an incredible open sea voyage in and trek over the mountainous interior be rescued from the sea.” the 23 foot long whaler James Caird of South Georgia, Shackleton, Tom to South Georgia to raise the alarm. Crean and Frank Worsley walked into Edward L Atkinson, the naval While everyone in the Endurance party the whaling station on 20 May 1916 surgeon who assumed command of was rescued, there were casualties in the asking to see the man in charge. It wasn’t the Terra Nova expedition after Scott’s . They became stranded long before the war was mentioned: death and Teddy Evans’ evacuation to when the Aurora blew out to sea in a New Zealand had an eventful war. He blizzard. One man died of scurvy and Tell me, when was the war over? served with the Royal Naval Division two were lost in a blizzard. They are the [Shackleton] asked. The war is not at Gallipoli, fought on the Somme men who Shackleton describes as having over, he answered. Millions are and spent time in north Russia. While fallen in the white warfare of the south. being killed. Europe is mad. The serving on HMS Glatton in Dover world is mad. Harbour in 1918 he was badly injured when the ship was torpedoed. He The news of the war took time for treated and rescued others before he them to take in: himself escaped and was awarded the Albert Medal. Cherry-Garrard however The reader may not realise quite wondered if the time he became lost in how difficult it was for us to a blizzard was his worst experience. envisage nearly two years of the Atkinson went out to read one of the most stupendous war of history. The thermometers and lost his bearings, as locking of the armies in trenches, Cherry records: the sinking of the Lusitania, the murder of Nurse Cavell, the use The snow was a blanket raging all The crew of the Aurora. Image courtesy Canterbury of poison-gas and liquid fire, the around him, and it was quite dark. Museum: 1998.65.1. submarine warfare, the Gallipoli He walked on and found nothing… The Endurance sailed from the East campaign, the hundred other Hour after hour he staggered about: India dock in London on 1 August 1914. incidents of the war, almost stunned he got his hand badly frost-bitten; he The same day Germany and Russia us at first, and then our minds found pressure [ridges]: he fell over… declared war on each other and the First began to compass the train of events he was crawling in it, on his hands World War had begun. Shackleton sent and develop a perspective. No other and knees. Stumbling, tumbling, a telegram to the Admiralty offering the civilised men could have been as tripping, buffeted by the endless lash services of the ship and men to the war blankly ignorant of world-shaking of the wind, sprawling through miles effort. Winston Churchill, however, told happenings as we were when we of punishing snow, he seems to have them to proceed, presumably trying to reached Stromness Whaling Station. kept his brain working. put on a show of confidence. Shackleton The members of the Endurance

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Tyggrve Gran during the Terra Nova expedition, December 1911.Photograph by Frank Debenham. Image courtesy Canterbury Museum: 2003.84.10.

expedition eventually made it back Britishers, hidden away for nearly so that our casualties have been to Britain in September 1916 and the two years in the fastnessess of the quite high. survivors of the Ross Sea Party in early polar ice, striving to carry out the 1917. There was brief press coverage ordained task and ignorant of the He died in South Georgia in 1922, of their return but there were so many crises through which the world whilst leading another Antarctic other earth-shattering events going on was passing, make a story which is expedition. at the same time that they were quickly unique in the history of Antarctic overshadowed. The mood had changed exploration. Several themes have emerged thus since 1914 and it was felt, as Stephanie Barczewski puts it that: “Shackleton had There was little choice but for the far in my initial research into Heroic had no business going off on frivolous expedition members to join the war Era Antarctic expeditions and the First expedition to a useless frozen wasteland effort. Again there were those who went World War. It is evident that pre-war at a time of national crisis.” back to their day job in the navy. Tom tensions made their way to the ice This reaction may explain in part Crean, who had also been on both of and that promises made there were why Shackleton appears so keen in Scott’s expeditions, was a career navy honoured. There are hints of parallels in South to allude to the expedition in man. Following many heroic Antarctic the language of memorialisation in the terms of warfare and to justify it: exploits, he had a quiet war, mainly aftermath of the Terra Nova expedition patrolling the waters of South-West and during and after the First World There are chapters in this book of Ireland. Alf Cheetham, one of the oldest War. It is also apparent that wartime high adventure, strenuous days, explorers, who served on both of Scott’s technology had antecedents on Antarctic lonely nights, unique experiences, expeditions and two of Shackleton’s, and, above all, records served with the Mercantile Marine and Expeditions, and that an expedition, of unflinching determination,went down with his ship aged 51 when against the backdrop of war, can change supreme loyalty, and generous it was torpedoed by a U-boat. from being a source of national pride self-sacrifice on the part of my to something that requires justification. men which, even in these days that Shackleton, who had a heart The initial research clearly demonstrates have witnessed the sacrifices of condition, repeatedly tried to be posted that there is more to research and nations and regardlessness of self to the front, but ended up boosting analyse on this topic and that the on the part of individuals, [which] British propaganda in South America Antarctic explorers activities during the still will be of interest to readers and also had a brief stint in North war years deserves more space than a who now gladly turn from the red Russia. His final thoughts on the few pages or a short chapter at the end horror of war and strain of the Endurance expedition further blur the of a biography. last five years to read, perhaps line between the expedition and the war: with more understanding minds, the tale of the white warfare Taking the expedition as a unit, A version of this paper was given of the south. The struggles, out of fifty-six men three died in at a conference with the theme of the disappointments, and the the Antarctic, three were killed in Endurance in 2012. Research into this endurance of this small party of action and five have been wounded, topic is continuing.

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Edward Atkinson’s skis returned to The Antarctic Heritage Trust Exactly a centenary after the return of SS Terra Nova to Lyttelton, New Zealand from the Antarctic, a set of skis belonging to Edward Atkinson has been returned to New Zealand’s Antarctic Heritage Trust. It was Atkinson who assumed leadership of Captain Scott’s last expedition and who was the leader of the party that found the tent containing the bodies of Captain Scott, Edward Wilson and Henry Bowers.

n 12 February 1913 the SS Windmill. Mr Tracy’s son, Dick Tracy The skis will be returned to Terra Nova entered Lyttelton said “it is with great joy that after many Antarctica by the Antarctic Heritage Oharbour with its flag at half-mast years these will be returned to Cape Trust. Trust Executive Director, Nigel to a country and the world in mourning. Evans from where dad recovered them”. Watson said “the provenance of the Two days earlier, the ship had moored Atkinson (usually called Atch) skis is beyond doubt. These are a most off Oamaru Harbour where Atkinson was appointed as parasitologist and poignant link to Captain Scott’s last and the ship’s Captain came ashore bacteriologist to the British Antarctic expedition. It seems like fate that these during the night and wired the news of Expedition. As well as his scientific have been returned to Christchurch, Scott and the Polar Party’s death to the work he was a member of the support exactly 100 years to the day after expedition’s agent. party to the Polar Party as they Atkinson himself returned here from the Antarctic with details of the loss of the The wooden skis, clearly etched marched south. As the only remaining polar party.” with Atkinson’s initials, were retrieved naval officer, Atkinson assumed from a pile of abandoned equipment at command when he returned to Cape Scott’s hut in 1948 by a Evans, with one of his main challenges navy helicopter pilot Lloyd Tracy aboard being to maintain morale, especially when the Polar Party became overdue USS Edisto, part of US Operation to return. On 12 November 1912 Atkinson discovered the tent containing the bodies of Scott, Wilson and Bowers and he read parts of Scott’s diary to the search party – telling of the journey and

last days of the Polar Party. Antarctic Heritage Trust Executive Director Nigel Watson with one of Dr Atkinson’s skis. Image courtesy Antarctic Heritage Trust, nzaht.org.

Lieutenant Lloyd Tracy and the USS Edisto on manoeuvres in Antarctica, 1948. Image courtesy Antarctic Heritage Trust, nzaht.org.

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 9 SCIENCE

Bromine Explosion Events and Ozone Depletion

by Tim Hay In 2009 Tim Hay (University of Canterbury) was the recipient of the inaugural Christchurch City Council Antarctic Scholarship administered by Gateway Antarctica. Tim’s proposal was to investigate bromine explosion events and their relationship to ozone depletion in the coastal Antarctic boundary layer.

ontinuing with this work Tim’s PhD supervisor Karin sulphide, but many key processes involving RHS remain poorly Kreher from NIWA at Lauder in Central Otago understood. Although enhanced BrO concentrations in the Csubmitted a plan for the 2012/13 summer season at polar MBL are naturally occurring phenomena, areas covered Scott Base. They proposed to take measurements of halogen by elevated BrO columns, as measured by the Global Ozone oxides (BrO and IO) in the Antarctic marine boundary layer Monitoring Experiment (GOME) satellite instrument, have using several complementary measurement techniques. They been expanding, possibly due to anthropogenic influences determined it useful to take some measurements as close as (human impact on the environment) on climate and bromine possible to first year sea ice and/or open and refreezing water. source gases. To that end Tim Hay and his collaborator Denis Poehler from In order to gain more understanding of conditions triggering the Institute of Environmental Physics at the University of the release of RHS we conducted a three month measurement Heidelberg deployed to Scott Base during Winfly, the first of campaign in McMurdo Sound. We used four different the winter flights last August. Denis left in mid-October after instruments based on the Differential Optical Absorption another two of his colleagues Udo Friess and Johannes Zielcke, Spectroscopy (DOAS) technique to measure BrO and IO also from the Institute of Environmental Physics, arrived at and other trace gases, along with measurements of ozone, Scott Base to continue the study. meteorology and mercury in snow samples. One instrument, Enhanced concentrations of Reactive Halogen Species the Long-Path DOAS, set up at Scott Base, has a telescope (RHS), including bromine monoxide (BrO) and iodine monoxide that sends out a light beam that is reflected from two different (IO) radicals, in the polar Marine Boundary Layer (MBL) are reflectors out on the sea ice. The concentrations of trace gases responsible for very efficient photocatalytic (the alteration of in the path of the light beam are measured. We also had two the rate of a chemical reaction by light) ozone destruction, as Multi-Axis DOAS instruments, which have a small telescope well as oxidation of gaseous elemental mercury and dimethyl that scans the sky to measure the trace gas absorptions in

10 Issue 223 SCIENCE

Bromine Explosion Events and Ozone Depletion

Event K804 working in Antarctica. Images courtesy Peter McCarthy and Tim Hay.

various directions and from that obtain a vertical concentration profile. One of these was running continuously out on the sea ice and was powered by solar panels and a wind generator. The other instrument was a Cavity-Enhanced DOAS, which reflects a light beam between two mirrors thousands of times. This can measure IO and NO2 right at the instrument location. The team observed BrO on several days, often for just a few hours at a time, while IO was observed at very low levels by the MAX-DOAS, but not at all above the detection limits of the other instruments. There were several partial ozone depletion events observed by the LP-DOAS, but these did not correlate well with peaks in BrO. They might be due to either NO2 pollution from the two bases, vehicles and aircraft or from transport of air already depleted in ozone from other regions. It Caro Maclaurin was our Antarctica New Zealand field support is still too soon to draw any conclusions as all the measurements person and she provided much needed support with logistics need to be interpreted along with the meteorological data and and safety. Over the season she drove us out numerous times modelled back-trajectories showing air-mass sources. in one of the Hagglünds to our site on the sea ice. Early in the season we had to stop at several cracks that we drilled to ensure There are several challenges with working in Antarctica the ice was thick enough to cross on our way out to Cape and one was to design an instrument system that can operate Evans. Weather was the major factor that prevented our travel autonomously off batteries out on the sea ice. The instruments but we also had instruments set up at Scott Base and there was and batteries were housed in insulated boxes that had to maintenance and lots of data to interpret. be well sealed to prevent fine spindrift from getting in. After storms and blowing snow it was still necessary to get out there The analysis of mercury in our snow samples has just been to check the instruments and clean the snow off the telescope completed. Using the data from the different instruments, window and the solar panels. Even a tiny speck of dust or meteorology, modelled airmass sources, and mercury levels snow on the mirrors of the Cavity-Enhanced DOAS can totally in the snow we should gain a better understanding of the reduce its sensitivity, so after a storm it takes several hours importance of BrO and IO in the tropospheric chemistry of of cleaning in the back of a Hagglünds or a return to Scott coastal Antarctica. Looking at trends or differences between Base. We also had to be careful of static shocks and make sure years we can then decide how to design and pursue future that the instruments and ourselves were properly grounded. measurements as effectively as possible.

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 11 ARTS

The base of the Robert Falcon Scott statue toppled in the Christchurch earthquake on 22 February 2011. The statue has been removed and cleaned and the Christchurch City Council with expert advisors is currently working on plans to conserve, strengthen and eventually reinstate the statue. Image courtesy Nic Jackson. A Father For My Son by Jenny Coverack Reviewed by Hanne Nielsen

udience members at Jenny Coverack’s Christchurch a Christchurch performance in order to raise funds for the performance of A Father For My Son on 16 February restoration of the city’s Scott statue. Sculpted by Kathleen, the A2013 were treated to an intimate evening alive with landmark was damaged in the earthquakes and is currently on history and the voice of a remarkable woman. Based on Louisa display in several pieces in Canterbury Museum. For Jenny, Young’s biography A Great Task of Happiness, Jenny’s one who travelled over from the UK to perform her play, the statue woman show brings Kathleen Scott to life, presenting a collage “seems to form a polar link between the UK, New Zealand of quotes and anecdotes from her diaries in order to paint a and the Antarctic.” One venue, two sculpted heads and several portrait of a sculptor, mother, activist and free spirit. While the phone calls later, the Canterbury branch of the Antarctic first half details Kathleen’s life up until her marriage to Captain Society were proud to present the fundraising evening. Scott, ending with news of his death, the second half assures We were also lucky to have Kathleen’s granddaughter Zoe the audience that her life most certainly did not end there. Young in the audience. Having seen her gran played by five Behind every great man there is a great woman, and this play different women over the course of the last week, Zoe felt she left us in no doubt that Kathleen was far more than the wife of was getting a real sense of what her grandmother must have an Antarctic hero. been like and was thrilled to see so much interest in Kathleen Jenny Coverack trained at the Bristol Old Vic Theatre on this side of the world. Zoe was also promoting her sister’s School and has performed A Father for My Son approximately biography, which was republished to mark 100 years since 35 times, including on board the polar class ice breaker - cum- Scott’s death and on which the play was based, cruise ship the Kapitan Khlebnikov in the Ross Sea region, Thanks to Jill and John Rogers, Stephen Dodge and Colin close to Scott’s Hut on Cape Evans where Scott departed on his Hillman for helping on the night and to all of those who turned final journey. She travelled to New Zealand to take part in the out for a moving performance to support a true Antarctic Oamaru Scott 100 Centenary celebrations, remarking that “it cause. A donation of $250 will be made towards the repair seems very appropriate that it’s to come to New Zealand where and upkeep of Kathleen’s marble sculpture of her husband Kathleen saw the Terra Nova depart and to where she was which will be conserved, strengthened and repaired by the travelling when she heard the sad news of the death of Scott Christchurch City Council. and his companions.” A Father For My Son was performed at St Bede’s College, Jenny approached the Antarctic Society wanting to stage Christchurch on 16 February 2013.

12 Issue 220 TRIBUTE

Tribute: John Macdonald (1941-2012)

Tribute by Clive W Evans and John C Montgomery from the University of Auckland

Antarctic Research Programme is the Antarctic environment, which was formally recognised through the reflected in his Antarctic lectures, enjoyed naming of the Macdonald Nunataks by so many. It was in sharing this passion in his honour: two peaks that push that he felt truly at home. though the ice on the flanks of the mighty Transantarctic Range. Later on in Mac’s career a distinct shift became apparent as he extended After post-doctoral studies at the his collaborative work to include the University of at Los Angeles, Italians (especially Guido di Prisco, Mac was appointed to a lectureship Marino Vacchi and Eva Pisano). in the then Department of Zoology at Mac’s embrace of this international the University of Auckland, where he collaboration included learning to speak remained until he retired. fluent Italian and how to make excellent limoncello. When much later he turned It wasn’t too long after arriving in his attention to Sangiovese, the outcome New Zealand before Mac was able to was nothing short of stunning. As Guido renew his acquaintance with Antarctica, di Prisco said in a note to us “I have a having secured a grant from the local lot of memories with John, including research committee to study neural the many wineries he took me to visit John (Mac) Macdonald. Image courtesy temperature compensation in Antarctic Clive Evans and John Mongomery. around Auckland, because among the poikilotherms. This work (actually done many interests we had in common wine out of McMurdo Station) was to lead ohn (known affectionately to most was not a minor one”. A bottle of Omiha onto his first Antarctic fish paper (with of us as Mac) died on Friday 14 Farm Sangiovese di Matakana 2010 – Donald Ensor) published in 1975, JDecember 2012 after a short illness. well drained of its contents – was seen recently adorning the shelf of the Scott Mac was born in Honolulu on In an interview with Tim Higham, Base bar. May it long remain. 25 October 1941. He completed his Mac once said of himself that one of his contributions had been to “harass, undergraduate degree at the University of Mac’s work on Antarctic fish interest and encourage” others into Stanford in 1963 and went on to achieve physiology is central to the legacy that he Antarctic fish research. This was certainly his PhD in 1970 at the University of has left. In honour of this contribution he one of his real strengths. He was the glue Texas at Austin. He paid his first visit received the Polar Medal, a Royal award in the mix of a very successful University to the ice in 1963-64, wintering-over as of which, in his Higham interview, he of Auckland Antarctic program, which a member of “Curly” Wohlschlag’s team admits “to being ‘chuffed’ because he began in the 1970s and continues to this at McMurdo Station. This experience, admires everyone else who has received which he shared with another Antarctic day with Clive Evans’ work. Through one” (Scott and Shackleton, for a start). notable, Paul Dayton, was certainly a much of the 1980s, Rufus Wells and The Polar Medal was richly deserved, formative one. In recent correspondence John Montgomery would alternate and Mac epitomises much of the strength with us, Paul recalls that Mac was a great seasons on the ice working with Mac, of the international Antarctic program winter-over companion, always calm, enjoying his company, excellent planning and science community. The tributes rational, and with a good, dry sense of and logistics, and keen science interests that have come in from the local and humour. He went on to add that “Mac and insights. In his retirement, Mac international science communities are was one of those rare genuinely decent continued his southern trips as an expert a real testament to Mac’s standing and people we all respect so much in life and lecturer with tourist cruise ships. As he contribution to that community over his miss so dearly in death”, a sentiment said, it’s hard to let go of the Ice. life time. On behalf of that community, echoed by us all. Mac was a stabilising influence and in paying this tribute to Mac, we Mac’s winter-over period with among the young Turks. He had a resilient offer our condolences to his wife Linda what was then the United States work ethic, and an enduring passion for and to his extended family.

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 13 EVENTS

Oamaru Scott 100 – a personal view by Anne Strathie

The new centenary plaque was unveiled in the presence of descendants of Robert and Kathleen Scott, Harry Pennell and Frank Debenham. Image courtesy Ann Strathie.

n early 2011 Anne Strathie travelled before it ‘leaked’ to newspaper reporters There were also ‘Polar Panels’ from Cheltenham, Britain to New awaiting the Terra Nova’s return from with experts on a wide a range of IZealand and Antarctica to research Antarctica to Lyttelton. Antarctic-related subjects and talks for her book Birdie Bowers: Captain Thanks to James Ramsey, Oamaru’s by writers including myself and Scott’s Marvel. She returned in February helpful and discreet harbour-master, the Zoe Young, Kathleen Scott’s grand- 2013 for book-signings and to attend crucial cable was dispatched and within daughter. Oamaru’s North Otago ‘Oamaru Scott 100’, a commemoration 24 hours newspaper headlines all over Museum displayed specially-loaned of Oamaru’s role in the 1913 return to the world blazed the news of Scott’s Terra Nova expedition artefacts, while New Zealand of Scott’s expedition. party’s achievements – and their deaths. the Forrester Gallery exhibited Herbert Ponting’s historic photographs of Scott’s At approximately 2 a.m. on 10 From 6 to 10 February 2013 Oamaru expedition, Ramonda Te Maiharoa February 1913 the Terra Nova dropped mounted a major commemoration of its and Irene Schroder’s Postcard from anchor off Oamaru and Petty Officer role in Antarctic history. On Waitangi Antarctica (photography and ceramics) rowed Lieutenant Harry Day HMNZS Otago sailed into harbour and Juilee Pryor’s 90 Degrees South Pennell and Dr Edward Atkinson ashore. and crowds enjoyed an open-air concert Again (multi-panel hybrid work). Captain Scott’s expedition ship then featuring international opera singer Elsewhere in town, David Sutton’s South slipped away northwards. Ramonda Taleni Te Maiharoa, pianist of Drake’s Passage exhibition featured The task entrusted to Pennell and Adrian Mann and other guests. The photographs taken with century-old Atkinson was the transmission of the Opera House hosted performances of The cameras, Dr Ron Newton played an news that Scott, Edward Wilson, Henry Night Visitors, a specially-commissioned 1885 Stanford organ from Lyttelton ‘Birdie’ Bowers, and play by Dr Paul Baker, former Rector (once heard by Scott’s men) and Bond had reached the South Pole of Oamaru’s Waitaki Boys High School Street Bridge band performed their in mid-January 1912 but died on their (where Henry Bowers’ sledge flag hangs Explorers’ Club songs inspired by Scott return journey. It was vital that their in the Hall of Memories) and of English and Shackleton. communication reached Central News actress Jenny Coverack’s one-woman Agency in London – with whom Scott play about Kathleen Scott, A Father for Saturday’s dinner in the historic had signed an exclusivity agreement – My Son. ‘Loan & Mercantile’ building was

14 Issue 223 EVENTS

Bowers’ sledge flag. Image courtesy Paul Baker. catered by celebrated chef Fleur Sullivan Roberts as Kathleen Scott. Oamaruvians and others involved in and her team and preceded by a After the lowering of the flag to half- Oamaru Scott 100, not least hard- first-day cover launch. Between courses mast, last post and two-minute silence a working organisers Bruce Albiston, environmentalist and film-maker James pipe band and naval parade led Mayor Helen Stead and Bronwyn Judge. Their Blake (son of yachtsman Sir Peter Blake) Alex Familton, Waitaki MP Jacqui Dean, efforts brought Oamaru’s Antarctic and other speakers put historic and Philippa Foster-Back and Nigel Watson story to life in a way which showed current events into new contexts. of (respectively) the and residents and visitors, including those At 6 a.m. on Sunday 10 February New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trusts, from the other side of the world, that the 2013 crowds gathered at historic re-enactment participants and audience continuum of history unites us all over Sumpter Wharf, where a new centenary members towards St Luke’s Church. the miles and years. plaque had been unveiled the previous The ecumenical service was based on the day in the presence of descendents of Scott centenary service held in St Paul’s Robert and Kathleen Scott, Harry Pennell Cathedral, London, on 29 March 2012 A Christchurch P.S. and Frank Debenham (expedition and was followed by a wreath-laying at from Ann Strathie scientist, founder of Cambridge’s Scott the nearby Scott memorial oak. In the Polar Research Institute). Following afternoon a re-enactment of the cable I had last been in Christchurch a summoning Karanga, ‘Pennell’ and sending at the former Post & Telegraph only a few days before the 22 ‘Atkinson’ were rowed to shore where Office and singer-guitarist Jake Wilson’s February 2011 earthquake and now they joined a hymn-singing male voice Scott-inspired song suite All’s Well want to express my admiration choir, Garrison Brass Band and other helped bring proceedings to a close. for the resilience of the people of Canterbury affected by that natural enactment performers, including Jill Warm thanks are due to all disaster. Although my return visit was tinged with sadness at seeing so many buildings gone, there was relief and pleasure at finding others undamaged (e.g. T J Mair’s Old Post Office), seeing rebuilding progress (e.g. Art Centre), being able to re-visit once- closed buildings (e.g. Canterbury Museum and the YMCA), witnessing green shoots of recovery (e.g. new restaurants, the Re:Start centre), learning of painstaking heritage initiatives (e.g. for Scott’s statue, the Sumner hut, Lyttelton sailors’ church and the Time-Ball Station). Best wishes and thanks to all involved and Re-enactment of Pennell and Atkinson were rowing to shore to give the news of the death of the Polar Party. Image courtesy Ann Strathie good fortune for the future.

Vol 31, No. 1, 2013 15 BOOK REVIEW

Tide Cracks and Sastrugi; An Antarctic Summer in 1968 - 69 by Graeme Connell

Reviewed by Barrie Waterhouse

raeme Connell spent most of his snow gathering for making water, life as a newspaper journalist, cleaning, snow clearing, taking part in Geditor and publisher in New work parties, and learning how to drive Zealand, Fiji, and Canada. His book is snow vehicles in order to ferry personell well written, well researched, and well to and from the airfield. to his official duties with day by day presented with numerous black and white Connell was selected to join a six accounts of the base and field activities. and colour photos. Graeme chronicles man tractor party to haul materials and Christmas 1968 came and went, his early days in New Plymouth, on the provisions from Scott Base across the summer and Graeme’s assignment were West Coast of the North Island, and like sea ice to the Dry Valleys, a distance of drawing to a close and with the arrival many teenagers was eager for adventure about 70 miles, where it was intended of HMNZS Endeavour he prepared to in the outdoors. His unbounded energy to set up another all weather base. The board for his return to New Zealand and ultimately to Fiji where he had secured a led him to mountain climbing and skiing operation was expected to take three to job with the Fiji Times newspaper. on Mt Taranaki and other outdoors five days there and back. Apart from activities which were cemented in place the cold, noise from incessant clanking This book is one mans quest for after listening to the news on the radio and increasing sastrugi over which the adventure and he found it in Antarctica. in the early 1950s of Ed Hillary and bulldozer blazed a trail, the trip over It is a detailed record of events and Sherpa Tensing reaching the summit of the sea ice was un-eventful. Graeme’s people met at Scott Base but readers Mt Everest. His interests extended to the graphic account of setting up a polar would probably be more interested frozen Continent after watching the film tent among the tide cracks in the Bay of in the actual events than in the names Scott of the Antarctic but his adventure Sails prior to the ascent of the Piedmont recorded of the people who passed there was still some years away. Glacier leading to the Wright Valley, through the base during the author’s The urge for adventure was and then sleeping through 12 hours stay. Like-wise for those who have spent realized when he successfully applied until it was night again, is not unusual months at a time in the field, letters to for the position of Information Officer/ for members of field parties. and from home might be viewed in a photographer at Scott Base. The more personal light and I suspect few appointment was for five months in the The 600 ft climb from the tide field people would go to the extent of summer period from October 1968 to crack camp up the ice falls of the Wright publishing their intimate details in a mid February 1969. Having survived Glacier was accomplished with some book of this nature. difficulty when the Caterpillar vehicle the mandatory field training exercises Although well written, I found it started skidding in the light snow at Waiouru, and the assessment by the somewhat brain testing to reconcile cover and a sledge broke free when shrink (psychologist) Tony Taylor on the written text with the account of the drawbar on the Sno-Cat snapped. arrival at Scott Base, Graeme settled into negotiating the way off the Ross Ice Fortunately the sledge came to rest a routine of working in the twenty four Shelf and into the glaciated region of the before reaching the bottom and was hour daylight of this new environment. Wright Valley and Lake Vanda. A more hauled back up with a wire rope strop. From a desk in the corner of the Post detailed map on a bigger scale of this With their destination still a long way Office/Communications hut, Graeme part of the journey, names of glaciers off and a crevassed area to negotiate, sent off photographs, reports and not mentioned in the text deleted, and during which the Sno-Cat broke newsletters for the DSIR, New Zealand a route guide showing day to day through a snow bridge and fortunately Press Association, New Zealand progress, and camp sites, would have was able to winch itself out, mechanical Broadcasting Corporation, Internal and been helpful. External Affairs, Tourism and Publicity, breakdowns became more frequent. and the National Film Unit. He also The team were now well beyond the Published as an E – Book and Paperback sold New Zealand authored books to original three to five days there and back by PolishedPublishingGroup.com 290 p visitors, guests, and dignitaries, and plan and on day 12, Graeme, whose with B&W and coloured photos. replied to school mail and general work was piling up at Scott Base, was enquiries from sources around the airlifted out and returned to Base from Colour version: $NZ35 plus mailing world. In addition to his official duties, where he describes the “glorious luxury $NZ6 from [email protected] he was also expected to do his share of of clean sheets, clean pyjamas, and a B&W version: from www.amazon.com the rostered base chores of fire warden, soft mattress”. Graeme rapidly returned (price varies)

16 Issue 223 You are invited to join – please complete the Membership Application below: All administrative enquiries regarding back issues and Overseas Branch enquiries should be directed to the National Treasurer. NATIONAL TREASURER New Zealand Antarctic Society P.O. Box 404, Christchurch 8140, New Zealand New Zealand Email: [email protected] ANTARCTIC Magazine correspondence and Antarctic Society articles should be addressed to: EDITOR: Natalie Cadenhead New Zealand Antarctic Society Membership P.O. Box 404, Christchurch 8140, New Zealand Email: [email protected] www.antarctic.org.nz The New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc was ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: Gusto formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders and Tel: 0064 4 499 9150 overseas friends, many of whom have been to the Email: [email protected] Antarctic and all of whom are interested in some Deadline: 20th of preceding month phase of Antarctic exploration, history, science, ADVERTISING RATES: wildlife or adventure. Full Page Colour NZ$700 A membership to the New Zealand Antarctic Society Half Page Colour NZ$400 entitles members to: Full Page Black & White NZ$300 • Antarctic, the quarterly publication of the Society. Half Page Black & White NZ$250 Situations Vacant (20 lines) NZ$50 It is unique in Antarctic literature as it is the only Inserts by arrangement periodical which provides regular and up to date news of the activities of all nations at work in the Antarctic, Claims for missing issues can be considered only if made Southern Ocean and Subantarctic Islands. immediately after receipt of the subsequent issue. It has worldwide circulation. • Attend meetings, educational and fun events which MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION are held by the Auckland, Wellington and Canterbury Branches of the Society. Name: Address: OFFICERS 2012 -2013 National President Jud Fretter Email: North Island Vice President Nicola Jackson Phone: South Island Vice President Margaret Bradshaw National Secretary Linda Kestle Students (with ID) NZ$40 International members add NZ$15 National Treasurer Lester Chaplow Unwaged NZ$40 to the relevant New Zealand Immediate Past President Graham White membership category NZ (Individual) NZ$70 BRANCH CHAIRPEOPLE NZ (Family) NZ$80 Referral Source: Auckland Linda Kestle NZ (Institutions) NZ$180 Canterbury Peter McCarthy (Acting for Sue Stubenvoll) Payment by: Cheque (payable to NZ Antarctic Society) Wellington Nicola Jackson Mastercard / Visa / AMEX Direct Deposit to NZAS Account Card No.: Expiry Date: Card Security Code: www.antarctic.org.nz (the last three numbers on the back of Visa/Mastercard Signature: or four numbers from the front of the Amex card Society Account Details are: 02 0800 0685108-02 New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc. BNZ, Christchurch Branch Antarctic Stones by Pablo Neruda

There everything ends and nothing: there everything begins: the rivers say farewell in the ice, the sky has married the snow, there are neither highways nor horses and the only building was raised by the stone. No one inhabits the castle, not even lost souls, those whom the cold and the cold wind have terrified: there the solitude of the world is lonely, and for this the stone became music, it lifted its delicate towers, it lifted itself to cry or to sing yet it was silent. Only the wind that whip whistling from the pole, only the empty white and a murmur of rainbirds over the castle of solitude

From The Wide White Page; writers imagine Antarctica, edited by Bill Manhire.

Photo above: Looking down the from Plunket Point, Dominion Range, Transantarctic Mountains. Photographed by Howard Conway. Image courtesy Hedgehog House: www.hedgehoghouse.com