{PDF EPUB} Dangerous Waves by LM Brown
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Read Ebook {PDF EPUB} Dangerous Waves by L.M. Brown The Five Deadliest Waves In The World. Given the level of lunacy these days, it’s hard to fathom why more surfers don’t die. It’s great they don’t, but watching a body get catapulted at Cape Fear, hammered at Jaws, or driven into the rocks at Shipsterns we’re immediately left wondering how the fuck they survived? Nature’s a freaky business. But every so often there are casualties, and when they come they’re heartbreaking and tragic. Looking back at the historical record, if you want to surf late into life, you should avoid these five spots. 1. Pipeline, Hawaii The data is irrefutable. Pipeline has killed more surfers than anywhere. Since 1989 it has taken the lives of seven surfers, and threatened the lives of countless others. Most recently, Florida’s Evan Geiselman, almost paid the ultimate price there. In December 2015 he hit the bottom and went unconscious before bodyboarder Andre Botha heroically pulled him to the surface and began resuscitation. Joel Parkinson hit the bottom and blacked out the year prior. Ask anybody that charges Pipe regularly and they’ll have their own near-death story. The list of deceased includes Andy Chuda (March 25, 1989), Travis Mussleman (March 20, 2000), Moto Watanabe (January 19, 2004), Malik Joyeux (December 2, 2005), Jon Mozo (February 9, 2005), Joshua Nakata (March 16, 2008) and Joaquin Velilla (January 12, 2007). 2. Teahupoo, Tahiti Search “surfer deaths at Teahupoo” and the phrase “nearly dies” comes up a lot. Most recently it was Niccolo Porcella that “nearly” died at Chopes. Before that it was Nathan Fletcher on the Code Red Day. “I don’t know how my head didn’t get ripped off,” famously said Nate afterwards. To date there have been more close calls than anyone wants to count, and five recorded deaths. The most notable is the 2001 wipeout of local charger Briece Taerea, who was out surfing in the lead-up to the Billabong Pro. He got sucked over the falls while trying to duck dive a 12-footer, he was driven into the reef where he broke his back in three places and was knocked into a coma. He succumbed to his injuries two days later. It stands as one of the most violent surf-related deaths on this list. 3. Puerto Escondido, Mexico Ron Cassidy in 2007, Noel Robinson in 2011, then Jay Adams in 2014, Puerto Escondido has taken the lives of some good men. The problem of tourists getting washed out to sea and lost was pervasive, but recent improvements in lifeguard protection have had a profound impact at Playa Zicatela, but that doesn’t make the wave any more safe on its heaviest days. “I don’t know how I didn’t die out there,” Mark Healey pondering after catching a giant left out there last year. During the recent Puerto Escondido Challenge Makua Rothman pulled into a dark, sandy pit and came up with a lung full of foam. He was forced to the beach where it took him a long time to recover. 4. Waimea Bay, Hawaii In 1943 the surf world was put on notice of just how dangerous big-wave surfing is when Dickie Cross disappeared at Waimea. On December 22, Cross and Woody Brown attempted to paddle out at Sunset Beach when a strong northwest swell quickly began filling in. With each set growing larger, the two paddled two and half miles down to Waimea to try and make it to the beach there. Brown made it, Cross did not. His body was never found. It would be years before anyone tempted fate out there again. In 1995 Waimea took the life of California’s Donnie Solomon, a fatality that hit New School guys like Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian and Todd Chesser close to to home. Most recently, on October 29, 2015, eccentric big-wave personality Alec “Ace” Coole paddled out at Waimea and disappeared. The search for his body was eventually called off days later. 5. Maverick’s, California Time and again Maverick’s has given the big-wave community reason to pause and reconsider. The 1994 death of Mark Foo made news around the world and quickly put Mavs on the map for all the wrong reasons. Its infamy was renewed in 2011 when Sion Milosky drowned. Cold and ominous, the Half Moon Bay heavy-water spot also almost took the life of aspiring charger Jacob Trette in 2012, and in 2011 Hollywood leading man Gerard Butler suffered a two-wave hold down during the filming of the Jay Moriarity bio-pic. It was a horrendous wipeout at Mavs that inspired Shane Dorian to develop the inflatable life vest so commonly worn by big-wave riders today. “It changed everything in my life, the way I approach everything,” said Dorian. Staying Safe Around Bears. Seeing a bear in the wild is a special treat for any visitor to a national park. While it is an exciting moment, it is important to remember that bears in national parks are wild and can be dangerous. Their behavior is sometimes unpredictable. Although rare, attacks on humans have occurred, inflicting serious injuries and death. Each bear and each experience is unique; there is no single strategy that will work in all situations and that guarantees safety. Most bear encounters end without injury. Following some basic guidelines may help to lessen the threat of danger. Your safety can depend on your ability to calm the bear. When you arrive in a park, always remember to check with the nearest visitor center or backcountry office for the latest bear safety information. Following viewing etiquette is the first step to avoiding an encounter with a bear that could escalate into an attack. Keeping your distance and not surprising bears are some of the most important things you can do. Most bears will avoid humans if they hear them coming. Pay attention to your surroundings and make a special effort to be noticeable if you are in an area with known bear activity or a good food source, such as berry bushes. Once a bear has noticed you and is paying attention to you, additional strategies can help prevent the situation from escalating. Identify yourself by talking calmly so the bear knows you are a human and not a prey animal. Remain still; stand your ground but slowly wave your arms. Help the bear recognize you as a human. It may come closer or stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. A standing bear is usually curious, not threatening. Stay calm and remember that most bears do not want to attack you; they usually just want to be left alone. Bears may bluff their way out of an encounter by charging and then turning away at the last second. Bears may also react defensively by woofing, yawning, salivating, growling, snapping their jaws, and laying their ears back. Continue to talk to the bear in low tones; this will help you stay calmer, and it won't be threatening to the bear. A scream or sudden movement may trigger an attack. Never imitate bear sounds or make a high-pitched squeal. Pick up small children immediately. Hike and travel in groups . Groups of people are usually noisier and smellier than a single person. Therefore, bears often become aware of groups of people at greater distances, and because of their cumulative size, groups are also intimidating to bears. Make yourselves look as large as possible (for example, move to higher ground). Do NOT allow the bear access to your food. Getting your food will only encourage the bear and make the problem worse for others. Do NOT drop your pack as it can provide protection for your back and prevent a bear from accessing your food. If the bear is stationary, move away slowly and sideways ; this allows you to keep an eye on the bear and avoid tripping. Moving sideways is also non-threatening to bears. Do NOT run, but if the bear follows, stop and hold your ground. Bears can run as fast as a racehorse both uphill and down. Like dogs, they will chase fleeing animals. Do NOT climb a tree. Both grizzlies and black bears can climb trees. Leave the area or take a detour. If this is impossible, wait until the bear moves away. Always leave the bear an escape route. Be especially cautious if you see a female with cubs ; never place yourself between a mother and her cub, and never attempt to approach them. The chances of an attack escalate greatly if she perceives you as a danger to her cubs. Bear attacks are rare; most bears are only interested in protecting food, cubs, or their space. However, being mentally prepared can help you have the most effective reaction. Every situation is different, but below are guidelines on how brown bear attacks can differ from black bear attacks. Help protect others by reporting all bear incidents to a park ranger immediately. Above all, keep your distance from bears! Brown/Grizzly Bears: If you are attacked by a brown/grizzly bear, leave your pack on and PLAY DEAD . Lay flat on your stomach with your hands clasped behind your neck. Spread your legs to make it harder for the bear to turn you over. Remain still until the bear leaves the area. Fighting back usually increases the intensity of such attacks. However, if the attack persists, fight back vigorously. Use whatever you have at hand to hit the bear in the face.