Activity Profiling in Surfing Diplomarbeit
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Activity Profiling in Surfing Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades eines Magisters der Naturwissenschaften an der Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz vorgelegt von Martin Eisner am Institut für Sportwissenschaft Begutachter: Univ.- Prof. Mag. Dr.rer.nat. Markus Tilp Graz, 2016 1 Eidesstattliche Erklärung: Ich erkläre ehrenwörtlich, dass ich die vorliegende Arbeit selbstständig und ohne fremde Hilfe verfasst, andere als die angegebenen Stellen nicht benutzt und die den Quellen wörtlich oder inhaltlich entnommenen Stellen als solche kenntlich gemacht habe. Die Arbeit wurde bisher in gleicher oder ähnlicher Form keiner anderen inländischen oder ausländischen Prüfungsbehörde vorgelegt und auch noch nicht veröffentlicht. Die vorliegende Fassung entspricht der eingereichten elektronischen Version. Datum: Unterschrift: 2 Acknowledgement: I want to thank my entire family, my father, my brother, my late grandfather and especially my mother, for enabling me to go to university, for always believing in me and for supporting me along the way. I also want to thank Univ.-Prof. Mag. Dr. Markus Tilp for supervising this thesis and Mag. Dr. Klaus Rom as well as MMag. David Höden for helping me when I did not know whom to ask for help, for brainstorming with me, and for putting me back on track when I got lost. Thanks to all of my friends around the world and to all the amazing people I met during my time at the University of Western Sydney, the Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and the Karl Franzens- University. My time spent at each Uni would not have been the same without you guys. 3 Table of Contents: Eidesstattliche Erklärung: ............................................................................................... 2 Acknowledgement: ............................................................................................................ 3 Table of Contents: ............................................................................................................... 4 Introduction to this Paper and Thesis Outline:........................................................ 6 Theoretical Part - I; Basic Knowledge and Relevant Extra Information on Surfing: ................................................................................................................................... 8 I.1.) The History of Surfing (With Special Regards to Gran Canaria): ....................... 8 I.1.1.) Surfing in Ancient Times: ......................................................................................................... 8 I.1.2.) The Rebirth of a Sport: .............................................................................................................. 9 I.1.3.) The History of Surfing in Gran Canaria: .......................................................................... 10 I.2.) Equipment: ...........................................................................................................................13 I.2.1.) Introduction: .............................................................................................................................. 13 I.2.2.) Surfboard Design: .................................................................................................................... 14 I.2.3.) Types of Surfboards: ............................................................................................................... 20 I.2.4.) Accessories: ................................................................................................................................ 23 I.3.) Surfing; Definition and Explanation of the Activity: .............................................25 I.3.1.) Introduction and Definition: ................................................................................................ 25 I.3.2.) Surfing Basics, Beginner and Intermediate Surfing: .................................................. 26 I.3.3.) Advanced Surfing: .................................................................................................................... 27 I.3.4.) Types of Surfbreaks: ............................................................................................................... 29 I.4.) Surfing in School: ...............................................................................................................32 I.4.1.) Introduction: .............................................................................................................................. 32 I.4.2.) Health: ........................................................................................................................................... 33 I.4.3.) Motor Competences: ............................................................................................................... 34 I.4.4.) Surf Week Meets Language Week: .................................................................................... 36 I.4.5.) Conclusion: ................................................................................................................................. 37 Theoretical Part II; Literature Review on Performance Analysis in Surfing: ................................................................................................................................................ 39 II.1.) Introduction to Performance Analysis in Surfing: ...............................................39 II.2.) Contest Versus Recreational Surfing: .......................................................................40 II.3.) Heart Rate Monitoring: ..................................................................................................41 II.4.) Performance Analysis: ...................................................................................................42 4 II.4.1.) Introduction:............................................................................................................................. 42 II.4.2.) Performance Analysis in Surfing - Red Bull Surf Science (Red Bull, 2014): ... 44 II.5.) Performance Analysis in Surfing Due to Time- Motion- Analysis: .................47 II.5.1.) Introduction:............................................................................................................................. 47 II.5.2.) Activity Profile of World- Class Professional Surfers During Competition: A Case Study (Mendez- Villanueva et al., 2006): .......................................................................... 48 II.5.3.) Heart Rates and Estimated Energy Expenditure During Recreational Surfing (Meir et al., 1991): ................................................................................................................................ 52 II.5.4.) Competitive Surfing: A Physiological Problem of Athletes and Determinants of Performance (Farley, 2011): ....................................................................................................... 56 Experimental Part - III: Activity Profiling During 1 Hour of Recreational Surfing: ................................................................................................................................ 58 III.1.) Introduction: ....................................................................................................................58 III.2.) Aims of the Study: ...........................................................................................................59 III.3.) Hypotheses: ......................................................................................................................60 III.4.) Equipment: ........................................................................................................................60 III.5.) Method: ..............................................................................................................................63 III.6.) Subject: ...............................................................................................................................64 III.7.) Classification of Movements: ......................................................................................64 III.8.) Categorization of Each Session: .................................................................................65 III.9.) Training Diary: ................................................................................................................66 III.10.) Video Analysis: ..............................................................................................................67 III.11.) Data Analysis: ................................................................................................................67 III.12.) Results: ............................................................................................................................68 III.12.1.) Duration of Activities: ....................................................................................................... 68 III.12.2.) Average Heart Rates During 1 h of Recreational Surfing: ................................. 72 III.12.3.) Definition of Exercise Zones: ......................................................................................... 75 III.12.4.) Overall Summary and Conclusion: .............................................................................. 83 IV.) Bibliography: ............................................................................................................. 86 V.) Index of Pictures: .....................................................................................................