Volunteer Vacations p.17 Waterfall Hikes p.41 Lost and Found p.50 WASHINGTON TRAILS March + April 2012 » A Publication of Washington Trails Association www.wta.org » $4.50

Explore Your State Parks Honoring our Park Rangers Road Trip: Quimper Peninsula Stay Dry in New Rain Gear This Month’s Cover » Balsamroot at sunset, Steptoe Butte State Park Photo by Kevin McNeal

Mar+Apr 2012 Volume 48 Issue 2 14 20 41 News + Views NW Explorer Take a Hike The Front Desk » Karen Daubert Our State Parks » John Floberg Where the Water Falls » A fortunate occurrence » p.4 Explore the hidden gems within the Early spring river and waterfall hikes State Parks system and plan to visit a few across the state » p.41 The Signpost » Eli Boschetto this spring » p.20 Honoring our park rangers » p.5 Featured Trail » Arlen Bogaards NW Weekend » Lauren Braden Check out the new tread in Larrabee Trail Talk » Sarah Rich Hidden hikes, good eats and so much State Park » p.49 From volunteer to crew leader: Q&A with more around Marrowstone Island » p.25 Arlen Bogaards » p.7 A Walk on the Wild Side » Tami Asars Reflections » Stacy Czebotar The backcountry lost and found » p.50 Hiking News » Dreams are dashed when economic State parks fee-free days » p.8 recession hits state park rangers » p.28 Wilderness permits available now » p.9

Perspective » Andrew Coghill A closer look at the lives of park rangers; Backcountry a tribute to Margaret Anderson » p.10 The Gear Closet » Rain Gear Get ready for soggy spring hikes with this selection of high performance wear » p.32

WTA at Work Nature on Trail » Sylvia Feder Trail Work » Sarah Rich From the rivers to the sea, there’s otters Fun on the job: Joining a Volunteer in the water » p.36 Vacation or BCRT this summer » p.14 Snapshot » Buff Black Youth on Trails » Krista Dooley Capturing silky waterfall images » p.39 Spring break trips are coming » p.18 Trail Eats » Sarah Kirkconnell Action for Trails » Kindra Ramos Don’t cook in the rain—try one of these Hiker Lobby Day wrap-up » p.19 easy no-cook meals » p.40 32 Find WTA online at wta.org or call us at (206) 625-1367. © 2012 Washington Trails Association March + April 2012 » Washington Trails About Us « 3 WASHINGTON TRAILS WTA Highlights » Staff Picks: What was your all-time favorite hiking road trip? A few items we just had to share.

Board of Directors President ROB SHURTLEFF VP, Advocacy STEPHEN TAN VP, Board Development CRAIG MCKIBBEN VP, Fundraising CAROLE BIANQUIS – Bryce and Zion Canyons, UT Treasurer DOUG BRECKEL Secretary KATE ROGERS LISA BLACK, JEFF CHAPMAN Harts Pass, North Cascades, WA AMY CSINK, TODD DUNFIELD St. George, Bryce and Zion, UT LAURIE HARTSHORN, WENDY WHEELER JACOBS – Bell Canyon, Goblin Valley, UT JERRY KEPPLER, KEN MONDAL DAMIEN MURPHY, BILL POPE Mt. Shasta, Lassen and Castle Crags, CA Advisory Board Susan Ball, Mark Boyar, Joan Burton Bill Chapman, Karl Forsgaard, Kevin Hall Over 50 hiker activists came out on a Ken Konigsmark, Ken Mondal, Tom Lucas blue sky Hiker Lobby Day on February 1. Margaret Macleod, Susan Saul, John Spring Staff Executive Director KAREN DAUBERT – Lewis & Clark Trail, WA Advocacy Director JONATHAN GUZZO – Badlands, Black Hills and Wind Cave, SD Bookkeeper DEB HEMINGWAY – Yachats, Cape Lookout, Oregon Coast, OR Chief Crew Leader MIKE OWENS Communications & Outreach Director LAUREN BRADEN – Staircase, Escalante, UT Development Director REBECCA LAVIGNE – Pacific Rim Reserve, Canada Editor ELI BOSCHETTO – Yoho, Banff and Jasper, Canada Engagement Manager KINDRA RAMOS – Redwoods and North Coast, CA Field Director ALAN CARTER MORTIMER Membership Manager KARA CHIN Membership Assistant KIM BROWN – Republic, Sanpoil River, Grand Coulee, WA NW Washington Crew Leader ARLEN BOGAARDS Office Manager JULIE CASSATA – Chicago, Badlands, Yellowstone, Seattle Program Assistant SARAH RICH – Glencoe Highlands, Scotland Project Coordinator TIM VAN BEEK – Pariah Canyon and Canyonlands, UT WTA Fireside Circle members on a SW Washington Regional Coordinator RYAN OJERIO – Pictured Rocks, MI winter hike in Twin Falls State Park Volunteer Coordinator ALYSSA KREIDER with Executive Director Karen Daubert. Web Editor SUSAN ELDERKIN – Ice Age Trail, WA Youth Programs Manager KRISTA DOOLEY – Hell’s Canyon, OR Washington Trails Association was founded by Louise B. Marshall (1915–2005). Ira Spring (1918–2003) Washington Trails Volunteers was its primary supporter. Greg Ball (1944–2004) Point Reyes, Giant Redwoods, CA founded the volunteer trail maintenance program. Copy Editors JIM CAVIN, REBECCA KETTWIG Their spirit continues today through contributions Editorial Intern ANDREW COGHILL Winds, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone, WY from thousands of WTA members and volunteers. Gear Team CHERIE BEVERS, CHERI HIGMAN, PATRICK LEAHY Mapmaker MARK CANIZARO – Crater Lake, OR Crescent Lake, Sol Duc, Rialto Beach, WA Washington Trails Vol. 48, Issue 2 Owner & Publisher WASHINGTON TRAILS ASSOCIATION

Our Mission Washington Trails (ISSN 1534-6366) is published Washington Trails Association is a volunteer- bimonthly by the Washington Trails Association, 705 Second Ave, Suite 300, Seattle, WA 98104. driven nonprofit membership organization Annual membership dues, which include a working to preserve, enhance and promote subscription to Washington Trails magazine, are $40. hiking opportunities in Washington state Single copy price is $4.50. Periodicals postage paid at through collaboration, education, advocacy Seattle, WA and at additional mailing locations. and trail maintenance. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Washington Trails Association, 705 Second Ave., Suite 300, Seattle, WA 98104. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News+Views The Front Desk »

Back on the Trail

As I sat at my desk in WTA’s downtown coffee, at Volunteer Appreciations, at Hiker office just after the new year, a dark realization Lobby Day and at WTA’s Open House. You crept over me. Since I had come on board as have let me pepper you with questions, given executive director in October, I had not set foot me invaluable feedback, and made me feel so on a single trail. My avid love of hiking was the welcome at this terrific organization. Thank primary reason I was drawn to the job. you. I also feel lucky that the individuals on WTA’s board and advisory board have provided Like many of you, I turn to WTA’s online a wealth of support. I have had the pleasure of Trip Reports for inspiration on where to go. A meeting with and learning from them all. report on the Ruby Beach Trail on the west Olympic Peninsula caught my eye, and soon my And lest I forget the numerous land husband, Jared, and I were off for a weekend managers throughout the state—and I have met of exploring. Saturday, we walked the beach many these past few months. These dedicated from Kalaloch Lodge, enjoying the sights of the professionals care deeply about our public rugged Olympic Coast. That evening it snowed. spaces, the visitors and their employees, and Rising before sunrise, we found the beach they are constantly working to improve the covered in a blanket of white. With coffee in outdoor experiences we have on these lands. hand, we retraced our steps from the afternoon before in a transformed landscape. Then, to Indeed, every day as WTA’s new executive our amazement, the clouds parted and sun director has been a pleasure. Yet as the shone through. winter months are passing and the days are stretching longer and longer now, my boots are Marveling over the sun-drenched coastal once again itching to get out onto the trail. snowscape, we came upon a fellow hiker who had visited Kalaloch every winter for the last I’ve just started a monthly “Hike with Karen.” fifty years. She told us that in all those visits, Yes, it is a ploy to get myself out hiking, but she had never seen it snow on the beach there. it’s a ploy to get you out, too! I hope I will Karen We told her it was our first visit to Kalaloch— meet many of you in the coming year on one of Daubert and she suggested that we run out and buy a these hikes. If you’d like to go hiking with me, Executive Director lottery ticket! drop me a line at [email protected] [email protected] Good luck must be following me around lately. These past few months, I feel very fortunate to have met so many of you—over March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News + Views « 5 The Signpost » On a lighter note, you've probably noticed a few News+Views changes in the pages of Washington Trails—new “I Love Rangers!” features, new This is my wife Mitzi’s exclamation at the faded into obscurity, no longer stewards to conclusion of most any interaction with a park their parks, and icons to the public? departents. ranger—from the one who kindly assists us with our wilderness permit, to the one who When we lose a ranger, we lose an We've got takes the time to explain the intricate details invaluable resource. There's one less person of the construction of a 12,000-foot pass on the to assist us with our questions or camp sites; some exciting John Muir Trail. Interpretive hikes in Glacier, to explain the behaviors of bats or bears or nature programs in Yellowstone, campfire chats eagles or bugs; to lead us on interpretive hikes, things in at the bottom of the Grand Canyon—she loves detailing the geography, geology or history them all. And I completely agree. of our surroundings; to educate our children store, so stay in being good stewards of nature; to assist in When I was growing up, I never idolized finding lost hikers on mountains; or to help tuned... sports figures—though Dusty Baker was my maintain the areas we love to hike in and favorite Dodger. And movie stars, whatever— camp in so we can escape the rigors of our but what I wouldn't have given to be Han workaday lives, if just briefly, and get back to Solo for a day—except for that whole frozen-in- the heart of what really matters. carbonite episode! My heroes were the forest rangers. They got to work outdoors with the As I prepared the contents for this issue trees and animals and mountains and rocks. you're now reading, I was forwarded a link They got to take care of nature and inspire to a blog post written by Stacy Czebotar, people—me!—to appreciate it and learn from one of the rangers whose job was being it. They stepped up to help people in trouble, eliminated. The post was solemn, with touches often putting themselves in harm's way for the of humor, conveying her remarkable journey, safety of others. These were the real heroes. from beginning to unsuspected ending. The astonishing thing was her incredibly positive As the new year started, events were attitude, even in the face of losing her job as unfolding rapidly across Washington for state a park ranger—something she had aspired to and national park rangers. Some of them were since childhood. Moved by her story, I realized braving the elements to rescue lost hikers that it needed to be shared. and climbers amid blizzard-like conditions on Mount Rainier, and tragically, one was killed So I invite you to read Stacy's story (p.28), at what should have been a routine traffic and the stories of many other rangers check. But far from the media spotlight, more throughout this issue. Then I urge you to than sixty were suddenly pondering life in the support our state parks, and the rangers that unemployment line following massive layoffs serve in them. Visit them, learn from them, within the state park system. purchase a Discover Pass. Only then can we continue to enjoy our outdoor experiences, I was relieved when the lost hikers were have our safety ensured, our parks maintained, Eli found and all came down off Mount Rainier and give our children their own heroes to look Boschetto safely. I was saddened by the death of up to in a top-notch state park system.t Editor Margaret Anderson, but know that her memory [email protected] will live on forever, both with her loved ones and on The Mountain. But what about the sixty-plus state park rangers who suddenly 6 » News + Views March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

Meet Our Members!

YouIn a recent Facebook poll,Sa we asked you id to share how park rangers factor into your outdoor experiences, and some of your favorite memories

“I have many memorable experiences with climbing rangers at Mount Rainier. They keep camps organized, provide helpful information and they look for people who are lost—and that’s just the start of the list!” – John Colver

“The breadth of their knowledge of their territory is always impressive. As a former Scout leader, I relied on their expertise to educate the Scouts on countless topics Katy & Andrea Baines from wildlife to soil conservation.” – Liem Bahneman She’s been a WTA member since she was in the womb—although, technically speaking, it’s her “I once faxed in a request for a backcountry permit at Mount Rainier and five mother who pays the dues. Whether they are minutes later, a ranger called me to tell me the area was full, but made some going out on work parties together, using WTA’s alternate suggestions. Excellent service!” – Louise Kornreich Trip Reports to find good hikes, or attending Hiker Lobby Day in Olympia, Katy Baines, age “My wife and I were hiking MRNP and came across a elderly man who was eleven, and her mother, Andrea, love WTA. dehydrated and fell and cracked his head, bad enough to need serious attention. A friend introduced Andrea to WTA’s website, After assisting the man, we notified a ranger and they were very quick to respond. and she quickly joined up. When Katy was born, They are there in need for all.” – Doug Shafer Andrea took to bringing her out on hikes with her, carrying her daughter in a backpack before “Coming to Snohomish County from a flat, barren area of Texas, we find the park she was even a year old. rangers an invaluable source of information! We try to get out and explore every Having instilled a love of the outdoors in her weekend and stopping at a ranger station is always one of the first things we do!” daughter from a young age, Andrea began – Trina Farris bringing Katy out on WTA work parties and volunteering together with WTA at events like “They do lots of planning and regulation enforcement that keeps the park Hike-a-Thon and the Issaquah Salmon Days. beautiful for my visit, and keeping people from tromping on the wildflowers. I’m “I don’t usually do a whole lot of work,” Katy also comforted knowing they are nearby if I am injured.” – Dorothy Gist says of the work parties, “because I’m not as strong as the adults.” She does however enjoy “I’ll never forget the look on my son’s face when he became a junior park ranger “the opportunity to work with other people— at Mount Rainier. The ranger was well-spoken, perfectly serious, respectful, and whether they’re older or younger than me—who proud—an excellent example to my son.” – Sarah McGann share the same interests.” Andrea explains that WTA membership is “We were on Mount Rainier when the Tacoma man went missing in January. They important to her on a broader level, too. “I’m closed the road and the only people getting up were rescue personnel following an avid hiker,” says Andrea. “And I know that snowblowers and plows. The park was considered closed, but they let us wait in the state budget is limited, so this is my way of the visitor center while coordinating the incoming searchers. It was very nice that ensuring that the trails I love stay open. A big they let us wait in there while the blizzardlike conditions raged outside. Later, reason we still have many of our major trails a ranger came over and had arranged for a snowblower to escort us down the open is because of WTA.” mountain so we could get home. It felt like they really went above and beyond For Katy, WTA’s impact hits close to home, and when they were obviously very busy.” – Ken Jackson she wants to support the organization that sustains her recreation opportunities. “I really like “Watching my daughter, an interpretive ranger at Mount St. Helens, give a that a lot of the trails that the work parties are on fabulous presentation to a huge group of people on the geology and history of the are really close to where we live,” says Katy. “It’s area. She also does junior park ranger programs with kids in a phenomenal way. really cool that my favorite trails get to become So proud of her.” – Leslie Franzen even better.” – Sarah Rich Connect with WTA on Facebook at facebook.com/washingtontrails March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News + Views « 7

Sarah Rich chats with Arlen Bogaards about going from volunteer to crew leader, and some of his most memorable Q&A moments on trail How did you first become connected with WTA, friends of mine, and all of them and then how did you make the step from being I greatly appreciate. I believe a volunteer to being a crew leader? treating all people equally has I have a great friend who actually found out about helped me succeed in gaining WTA by running into crew leader Pete Dewell and those regular volunteers. Seeing other happy volunteers while rabidly hiking to that light in their eyes at the end keep sane from his office job. He babbled about of the day when they walk over a how fabulous it was, and I just had to find out for fantastic section of trail that they myself. I joined a day trip at Heybrook Lookout late recently built or maintained is in the fall that was truly amazing—I got to build what makes me love this job. rock steps even though I didn’t have a clue what I What has been the most was doing. It was so much fun that I signed up for memorable moment on the job? one of the Moore Point weeklongs in the spring and fell in love with the crosscut saw and all of the Memorable moments have been great folks who give their time to help out on trail. numerous, and it’s hard to pick After that I started going out on weekends for the just one. There was the time after rest of the season up in the Mount Baker area. I working on the Scott Paul Trail began learning some new skills and had tons of when I pretty much had to tell fun meeting some truly great people. Before long I people to leave, because we were became an assistant crew leader. all just sitting around, not wanting such a fantastic day to end. Then The next season, and a couple of weeklongs later, there was the time that a land manager, Gary the Mount Baker district crew leader left mid- Paull, was hiking by with his family, and I heard season, and I jumped into the role of volunteer folks telling them who we were and that they too crew lead on an amazing puncheon-building could be out here working on trail. I remember the project up at Anderson and Watson Lakes. In 2007 rough, swear-word-dropping fellow taking care I was offered the district position. Through the of the panting, out-of-shape first-timer, and the organic process of moving from volunteer to crew 90-pound girl showing the crew how a drain dip lead, I’ve used my experiences to be the best crew should look. In all of these, I find an overall concern lead I can be. by every volunteer for the well-being of others. What are the different responsibilities you have What is your favorite trail you’ve worked on? as a crew leader? The trail I am most proud of is Yellow Aster Butte. My responsibilities are fairly broad. I schedule It was transformed from an outsloped and slid- trail work for the Mount Baker Ranger District and out avalanche chute to a nice, wide and sweetly the off-season work at Larrabee State Park. I also benched trail. I’ll never forget the looks of disbelief determine BCRT and Volunteer Vacation locations. Write to Us » on volunteers’ faces as I waved my arms to indicate Over the years I’ve developed a great relationship Send a letter to where the trail had been in its prime and how we with the various land managers through solid 705 Second Ave. were going to right it by re-treading. The looks of work by WTA volunteers, and outstanding training Suite 300, amazement and pride on people’s faces at the end and experience. My love of the outdoors and Seattle WA 98104 of the day as folks walked down to their cars over dedication to making a difference on trail really or email a nearly perfect section of trail—that was a nearly helps me to do my job. [email protected] magical moment. What is it like working with different people Is there an end to your crew-leading days in Chat With Us » almost every day? sight, or do you expect to keep on for a while? To discuss trail I think that since I was a volunteer before issues online, visit As long as I can get that feeling, sometimes becoming a crew lead helps in my relationship with the Signpost Blog much bigger than words can describe, I don’t folks; I truly appreciate them giving time to our at www.wta.org/ really see an end in my desire to be a part of this trails. I think the caliber of people who volunteer blog/ or follow great organization. While every day on trail isn’t is a real draw for me too—not many mean people WTA on Facebook always like this—some days feel a bit more like take the time to do this. I’ve met doctors, lawyers, or Twitter. work than others—I believe the mission of WTA is a cancer survivors, military masterchiefs and a whole win-win for all concerned. t host of others. Some of these people are now 8 » News + Views March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Hiking News » WTA Receives Grant for Catherine Creek and Coyote Wall The National Forest Foundation (NFF) recently awarded a $15,000 grant to WTA to plan and coordinate a series of work parties at Catherine Creek and Coyote Wall in the Columbia River Gorge, east of Bingen.

In January 2011, the U.S. Forest Service completed a recreation plan for the area, which has suffered from a proliferation of user-built trails that threaten some of the unique plant and animal communities found there. Mountain biking in the area has grown exponentially in the last decade and is often cited as the root cause of the rogue trail developments. NFF and WTA will work closely with the International Mountain Bike Association, local mountain bike clubs, trail users and wildflower enthusiasts to plan and construct reroutes and upgrade user- built trails to standard specifications.

This project continues the ongoing partnership between WTA and NFF to improve and steward recreation opportunities in the Columbia River Gorge. Trail work parties will begin in April 2012. – Ryan Ojerio

Catherine Creek Trail, by Bob Griffiths

State of the State Parks 2012

Discover Pass holders—and Just before this issue went to Fee-Free Days! those waiting to purchase your new press, HB 2373 had been rewritten Free stuff doesn't come along that pass—may soon have reason to to remove the worst provisions, and often. Enjoy one of these weekends celebrate. Two bills are working their now includes a bevy of advantages at any state park—free! Discover way through the House and Senate, to Discover Passholders: two Pass not required. striving toward an eventual agreed- vehicle transferability, allowing the upon Discover Pass bill. These are designation of a pass start date, March 18-19 good bills that will be good for hikers. clarifies that Sno-Park passholders Honoring Washington State Parks' do not also need a Discover Pass and 99th Birthday SB 5977 is very simple. It adds adds a $50 family Discover Pass that is June 9 space to the Discover Pass for a infinitely transferable. National Get Outdoors Day second license plate number and is retroactive. Current passholders can Contact your state Legislator today September 29 just write another plate number on and urge them to support these two National Public Lands Day their Discover Pass. This bill has passed bills for a new-and-improved Discover the Senate and is working its way Pass. Then get out and enjoy your November 10-12 through the House. Washington state lands! Veterans Day Weekend March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News + Views « 9 Get Your 2012 Wilderness Permits Now! Forget crossing your fingers and sacrificing your old hiking boots to the mountain gods in hopes of scoring the elusive walk-in permit. Reservation applications are now being accepted for Washington’s top hiking destinations. Here’s the low-down on securing your wilderness permit reservations for Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens and the Enchantments—so you can plan your summer trip with peace of mind, and no entry-day surprises.

GABE LARAMIE Eugenia Dawson COLEEN PONTO Mount St. Helens The Enchantments Mount Rainier Permits for the 2012 season on Mount Last year, the Wenatchee River Ranger The Mount Rainier Wilderness Information St. Helens went on sale February 1, but District moved all permit applications Center will begin taking permit there are still plenty of dates available— for the Alpine Lakes Wilderness to the reservation applications on March 15, including some weekends in June and recreation.gov website. You can create an for all trips starting through September September. Permits can be purchased for account and enter the permit lottery from 30. Applications can be downloaded $22 per person (limit 12) by visiting the February 22 through March 13. Permits from their website and faxed to their Mount St. Helens Institute website. will then be awarded by random drawing, office. Application processing will begin with confirmation letters being emailed The Institute grants only 100 climbing in random order on April 1. Confirmation after March 15. permits per day. It may seem like a lot, but letters are usually sent by mid-May. don’t wait too long before selecting your When filling out your permit application, The key to securing your Mount Rainier date, as permits start disappearing fast you must select the Enchantments Zone(s) permit reservation? Flexibility. Include once summer weather is on the horizon. where you wish to overnight, including alternate dates and camps on your appli- Plus, guided trips snatch up large numbers entry and exit dates. Entering alternate cation. For camping in Mount Rainier’s of permits, so check your calendar and dates and/or zone preferences will improve backcountry, you’re required to indicate make your plans early. your chances of securing a permit if drawn. where you intend to camp each night— Climbing Mount St. Helens is challenging— If you miss the lottery round, any remaining and only established camps are permitted. from the Climber’s Bivouac trailhead, you availability will be awarded on a first come, Improve your chances of securing a permit gain over 4,000 vertical feet in 4 miles—but first served basis after March 16. reservation by selecting a weekday entry, not technical. The first 2 miles are along Seventy-five percent of Enchantments or if attempting to do the complete forested trail, but once you hit treeline, the area permits are available via lottery and Wonderland Trail circuit, avoid weekends in next section is a steep, rocky climb over advance application. The remaining walk- high-traffic, low-capacity campsites. jumbled lava rock, with the final ascent up in permits are available at the Wenatchee Mount Rainier fills 70 percent of its permit a soft, sandy slope. The views from the rim River Ranger District Office for day-of quota via advance reservation. Walk-ins on a clear day are stunning! entries. Arrive before 7:30 a.m. for the first are available, but have several options Carry plenty of water and be prepared for drawing; a second drawing is held at 9:00 in mind—and hope for a last-minute rapid weather changes. a.m. for cancellations and no-shows. cancellation. Purchase your permits and get additional For more info and a link to the permit Get all the details at www.nps.gov/mora/ info at http://mshinstitute.org/index. application website, visit www.fs.usda. planyourvisit/wilderness-reservation- php/climbing/index gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits information.htm 10 » News + Views March + April 2012 » Washington Trails The Life of a Park Ranger Recent events have prompted us here at WTA to take an in-depth look at the lives, motivation and dedication of our state, national park and forest service rangers, and salute them as true heros and stewards of our natural areas.

Carissa Black stood atop Angels Landing, an Before attaining permanent status within a exhilarating 5-mile hike in Utah’s Zion National park, rangers work seasonal positions, often Park, admiring breathtaking red rock canyons moving great distances between parks, but when she noticed something peculiar. Nearby, gaining valuable training and experience along amid fantastical 360-degree views and a gaggle the way. Since 2008, law enforcement ranger of other hikers, a man in a Logan Stevenson has put over 30,000 miles National Park Service uniform on his car crisscrossing the country, traveling was stooping over to pick up between jobs. He’s nearly covered the map, “It’s not just about a piece of litter. Inspired by having worked in Yellowstone, Sequoia, and recreation and education, his example, Black not only Acadia National Parks before landing at Padre stuffed trash into her lunch Island National Seashore in Texas. but making people feel bag as she hiked out, she the same passion for the decided she wanted to work “That’s what draws a lot of folks into park that you do.” for the National Park Service. becoming U.S. park rangers—the opportunity to decide what skills you want to focus on,” – Josh McLean Rangers make a career explains Stevenson. “If you want to be a master Olympic National Park of leading by example. This at high-angle search and rescue, the opportunity example often leaves last- is there. If you want to become an EMT- ing impressions on visitors paramedic, a firearms instructor, or a master at that extend far beyond park boat operation, the National Park Service has boundaries. In doing so rangers have become that potential,” says Stevenson. icons of stewardship and public service. Yet much of what park rangers do is not as visible as a guided walk or campfire program. In a Their Loss Is Our Loss career most cherish as much as the parks they protect, they face terrific sacrifices, as we have Rangers form strong ties to their parks while recently seen with the loss of park ranger Mar- studying their history and ecology, hiking its garet Anderson at Mount Rainier and job cuts trails, and getting to know their wildlife and across Washington’s state parks. visitors. Stacy Czebotar worked at Twanoh State Park on Washington’s Hood Canal for seven Growing up on Kodiak Island, Alaska, Josh years. Last month, due to budget cuts within McLean’s parents taught him that if you feel a State Parks, she lost her job. She had dreamed connection with the land, you should shoulder of being a park ranger since age eleven. (Read some of the responsibility of caring for it. Stacy’s own story on page 28.) Today McLean works as an educational and interpretive ranger in Olympic National Park “I have a hard time imaging myself as where he often asks children, “Who owns anything other than a park ranger,” remarks National Parks?” They point to him, the man Czebotar, now concerned that visitors will in the uniform. He points back at them. The see lower standards in state parks, many of children’s eyes grow wide at the thought of which host campers year-round—and where being part owners of something as magnificent maintenance won’t always wait for spring and as National Parks. summer staff.

“It’s not just about recreation and education, Through a trying time she’s been encouraged but making people feel the same passion for the by the outpouring of support from park visitors park that you do,” says McLean. and campers. In one email she received, a camper expressed that changing rangers was Not all rangers are educational and interpre- the equivalent of changing doctors or barbers. tive. Many are trained law enforcement officers, “For them I’ve become just as much of the park charged with protecting both park resources as the park itself,” says Czebotar. and visitors. As federal agents, rangers with the National Park Service have the same authority As with most Washington State Parks as the FBI, CIA and U.S. Border Patrol. Aside rangers, Czebotar was a fully commissioned from typical law enforcement duties, rangers law officer and dealt with what most people participate in search and rescue, emergency think of as police work. Working in the unique medical services and wildland firefighting. state park setting, rangers are not called to March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News + Views « 11

dangerous situations as much as they walk “The best way to educate the public is to get right into them. This can be problematic in out of your patrol vehicle,” says Black, who still remote parks like Twanoh, where as the only admonishes litterbugs with, “If it doesn’t grow permanently assigned ranger, Czebotar could here, it doesn’t go here.” wait up to thirty minutes for backup to arrive. With fewer rangers in the field, backup could Black is thrilled with her be even farther away, lengthening the time career choice, but she has yet “I have a hard time rangers—and the public—wait for assistance. to obtain permanent status. imagining myself as For many rangers beginning Those services, and the personal touch their careers, years of seasonal anything other than rangers bring to parks, are not lost on Adam employment, low pay, no a park ranger.” Stone. This past New Year’s Day Stone returned benefits and a seemingly to Twanoh State Park, as he often has over the endless application process – Stacy Czebotar years, to visit a memorial bench dedicated to a test their resolve to dedicate Twanoh State Park close friend. “When I arrived I was shocked to themselves to parks. not find the bench,” recalls Stone. “You better make sure this is what you want Unknown to Stone, Czebotar removed the to do because it’s a huge sacrifice,” says Black, bench’s seat and back boards to protect them who is substitute teaching in Anacortes while from winter weather—as she has done for seven applying for a permanent position. years. Each year she cleaned the bench’s boards and restained them. When the plaque began “The parks changed my life,” says Black. dulling with age and exposure she bought a “That’s why I want to be part of the National new one. Each spring, with shiny new bolts, she Park Service.”t put the bench back together. – Andrew Coghill After exchanging emails with Czebotar, Stone learned of the care she had given the bench. As Stone says, Czebotar took care of the bench “as if she knew my friend and was a friend as well.” In Memoriam It’s been an eye-opening experience for Stone. On New Year’s Day, we lost a true friend of “I can only imagine all of the other tasks that The Mountain. In a senseless act of violence, she and other rangers are performing on a day- a disturbed individual shot and killed Ranger to-day, month-to-month and year-to-year basis Margaret Anderson. which we are seemingly unaware of.” Ranger Anderson began her career for the National Park Service in 2002 at Bryce Canyon With Czebotar no longer at Twanoh, Stone in Utah. This is also where she met her future now wonders who will care for his friend’s husband, Eric. They were married in October bench. “You look beyond the numbers. Twanoh 2005, and became the proud parents of State Park will be losing not just a ranger but a Annalise Rose in 2008. In December 2008, friend and a caretaker of the parks and someone the Andersons were relocated to Mount who has performed her job above and beyond.” Rainier National Park. They welcomed their Margaret Anderson, 2011 second daughter, Kathryn Paige, in 2010. On The next time Stone visits Twanoh State January 1, 2012, Ranger Anderson’s life came to a brutal end. Park he’ll remember not only his friend, but also Czebotar and other rangers who do so much for At her deeply emotional memorial service, her father spoke of her early our parks. love of nature and her deep commitment to duty. These beliefs greatly influenced her love of all creatures and her desire to protect them. She took great joy in spending time on her family’s property, exploring the nearby A Passion for Parks woods or relaxing by the pond. Margaret will always be remembered as a beautiful, loving wife and mother. She deeply loved her family and was Since her life-changing hike in Zion, Carissa adored by her husband and little girls. She was a good friend to all, known Black has worked in Glacier, Yellowstone and for her smile and dedication to doing the best job possible. Sequoia National Parks. Last summer, as a law Attendees at the service included Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar, enforcement ranger in Sequoia, she patrolled Gov. Christine Gregoire, Director of the National Park Service Jon Jarvis, and trails on horseback, monitored poaching, and Superintendent of Mount Rainier National Park Randy King, as well as over participated in marijuana cultivation patrols. 2,000 law enforcement officers, outdoor organization representatives and volunteers. Black, who worked as an interpretive ranger before completing her seasonal law enforcement When the service began, Mount Rainier was shrouded in a cloak of clouds, training in Mount Vernon, Washington, as if in mourning itself. When the service concluded, The Mountain was continues to see her role as that of a public shining in the sun, reminding everyone of what Ranger Anderson loved so educator. dearly, and will forever be a part of. 12 » News + Views March + April 2012 » Washington Trails A Closer Look »

Guns in Our National Parks Did the recent lift of the firearms ban in national parks play a role in the tragic shooting at Mount Rainier National Park in January? We take a look at the debate.

In late 2008, the Bush administration made a rule change Rep. Norm Dicks wants Congress to overturn the law to remove longstanding restrictions on the carrying of allowing loaded guns in National Parks. “I’m not sure loaded, concealed firearms in national parks and national that would have prevented this incident, but it makes me wildlife refuges. Surrounded by controversy, the rule worried about the future and other possible tragedies,” dismantled longstanding Reagan administration regulations Dicks told the Seattle Times after the shooting. “I hope this that allowed guns in national parks only if they were will at least garner some attention and remind people that unloaded and inaccessible. President Bush’s rule change there are victims and tragedies like this where somebody required national parks to comport with the gun laws of the loses their mother, and a man loses his wife, and parents states in which they were located. Currently, 48 states issue lose their daughter—and it’s because of violence and guns.” concealed carry permits, and Washington is among them. So far, Congress and the Obama administration have Bush’s rule was included by Congress as a rider to the declined to take up the National Parks firearms ban in the credit card reform act of 2009, which President Obama wake of Ranger Anderson’s death. signed in May of that year. On February 22, 2010, the twenty-six-year ban on loaded and concealed firearms in Since the ban on guns was lifted in February 2010, national parks came to an end. rangers and other National Park managers have grappled with complex enforcement issues. In the case of For nearly two years, the controversy around allowing Yellowstone, it is up to visitors to determine whether they guns in national parks quieted. But that all changed early are in Montana, Idaho or Wyoming, in order to assess this year. The shooting death of Mount Rainier National whether they are in compliance with the laws in their Park Ranger Margaret Anderson by Benjamin Colton Barnes location. States may occasionally make changes to their on New Year’s Day immediately reignited discussion around concealed carry laws, forcing National Park rangers to stay this issue in the media, from USA Today to Time magazine. on top of a shifting statutory landscape. Debate sparked on Internet forums, too, including our own Signpost blog and Facebook page. The enforcement of poaching laws has been made more challenging by the lift of the concealed firearms ban. Prior Would the ban on guns in National Parks have deterred or to February 2010, “during hunting season, if we were on a changed the result of Barnes’ rampage? boundary patrol and encountered a citizen with a firearm, they were already in violation,” said Ranger Herring. We don’t know, though given the circumstances it is “Now, if you’re going to cite someone for an illegal hunting unlikely that any federal policy banning guns in parks violation, the mere possession of a firearm is not sufficient. would have kept this tragedy from occurring. From a poaching standpoint, it’s definitely made our job more complex.” We reached out to Nick Herring, deputy chief ranger at Yellowstone National Park, for his take, and he agreed. National park rangers are federal law enforcement officers “Regulations on firearms in National Parks would have had charged with protecting the public and park resources. no bearing on that situation,” he said. Regardless of one’s views on concealed carry laws, the evolution of regulations around firearms in national parks Barnes was wanted for the shooting of several people has created a layer of complexity that requires more of our at a house party near Seattle earlier on New Year’s Day. It rangers than ever before. is reasonable to assume that anyone intent upon violence like that would not have been deterred from carrying an “Rangers put themselves in harm’s way every day accessible, loaded weapon into a National Park had the prior somewhere across the country handling serious, complex gun ban been in effect. law enforcement situations far beyond what you might imagine in a national park,” said Ranger Herring. “They take But Bill Wade, who began his National Park Service career their duty to protect people and parks very seriously. I hope as a ranger at Mount Rainier and is former chairman of that lawmakers and the public understand what’s at stake Coalition of National Park Service Retirees, spoke with The and what’s important, because Ranger Margaret Anderson Associated Press in the aftermath of the Rainier tragedy. sure did.”t “The many congressmen and senators who voted for the legislation that allowed loaded weapons to be brought into – Jonathan Guzzo & Lauren Braden the parks ought to be feeling pretty bad right now,” he said. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails News + Views « 13

Money earned while volunteering in the WTA office: $0 Supporting the outdoors and being part of WTA's inner circle: Priceless

Volunteers are the backbone of WTA

ithout the 2,600 trail work Do you love talking with people about hiking? Want to help others discover the joy of volunteering on trail? WTA’s outreach volunteers putting in nearly volunteers help out at local events, talking up hiking and WTA to the general public. This is a great way to check out local 100,000 hours of volunteer service, festivals, get to know other outdoor enthusiasts and help spread W the word about all that WTA does for hikers. we could never get all the work done on more than 150 trails that we maintain each year. Like to write? Pretty good behind a camera too? The WTA communications department is always looking for Trip But did you know that we couldn’t produce Reporters and photo contributors. Do you really have the editorial bug? Then sign up to be a regional correspondent for this magazine without volunteer help? And Washington Trails, or inquire about magazine or website intern opportunities. without the helping hands of volunteers, the WTA office just couldn’t support our 9,500 Just like the U.S. Postal Service, WTA’s Helping Hands never miss a mailing. Unlike USPS, though, our Helping Hands work members or our amazing website. for treats and trail talk. Join WTA staff and volunteers in the downtown office the first Tuesday of every month to help keep We certainly rely on volunteers to be effective our membership program wheels turning. ambassadors out in the hiking community, Big things happen in the WTA office. And sometimes, we just can’t make them happen without YOU! WTA is seeking long- but we’re also in need of volunteers to assist term relationships with computer-savvy, detail-oriented, data- entry-loving individuals in our development office, helping to behind the scenes. keep our membership database in tip-top shape.

Interested? Here’s how you can get involved. Hike-a-Thon is coming! What could be better than going hiking? Knowing that every mile you hike means more money To volunteer or get more information, for trails! And winning awesome hiking gear too! We’ll be looking for volunteers to assist this summer. email [email protected]. Visit wta.org/hikeathon for information. 14 » WTA at Work March + April 2012 » Washington Trails WTA at Work Trail Maintenance »

WTA Puts the Vacation in VolunteeringVacation

et’s say, hypothetically, that you’ve got “Strangers become friends with whom Lone week of vacation this summer. You’ve you work, laugh, and enjoy good times in a probably dreamed of spending that week lying wonderful outdoors setting,” says Ken Vandver, motionless on some sun-drenched beach far a Volunteer Vacation veteran. “Is there a better away, on an island whose name is one long way to spend a week in the woods?” string of vowels—but ugh, the cost of plane tickets. Maybe you’ve thought about going But before you object, arguing that you to visit your great-aunt Esther in Kansas (it’s haven’t been physically fit enough to do trail been years since you’ve seen her)—but blech, work since your middle-school basketball days, it’s so flat in Kansas. Or maybe you’ve simply consider this: WTA trips come in all shapes resigned yourself to staying home and doing and sizes, catering to all levels of experience. the laundry—come on, really? Young or old, big or small, strong or scrappy— WTA has a trip for you. But what about this: spending your week off volunteering. Making a difference for trails. Enjoying beautiful natural surroundings Volunteer Vacations that hint at that island paradise of which Years later, when you look back at your you’ve dreamed, while meeting interesting, weeklong Volunteer Vacation on the shore like-minded folks in a fun and rewarding of Lake Chelan or in the Hoh Rain Forest, it environment—something great-aunt Esther won’t be the trail work you’ll remember. Now, would be proud of you for. And leaving laundry that’s not to say that the work you do won’t for another time. be important. On the contrary, your work will benefit hikers—and Washington’s wilderness Just picture yourself on the flanks of Mount areas—for years to come. But what will stick Baker, or staring off into the bay at Vendovi with you will be the people you meet, the Island, a pair of stout loppers in hand, a shiny crystalline waterfalls you see, the hours you Sarah WTA hard hat on your head. If you sign up to spend lolling around the campfire dining on spend a week, or even just a few days, on one plates of grilled salmon, and the crimson Rich of WTA’s Volunteer Vacation or Backcountry sunset you watch beyond the mountain next to Program Assistant Response Team (BCRT) trips this summer, you'll your campsite. [email protected] be doing critical work by improving trails, yes— but you’ll also be making friends and having Plus, one of the most rewarding aspects of fun in beautiful locations across the state. going on a Volunteer Vacation is that you’ll get March + April 2012 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 15 to spend your entire week in one place. Unlike a well-sited tent, and a nice nap before supper hiking or backpacking trips where you’re is a combination hard to beat,” says Janice always on the move and just passing through, VanCleve, a repeat volunteer. “Washington a Volunteer Vacation lets you really get to Trails Volunteer Vacations are a treat even a A job well know the single natural space that you choose city girl like me can get into.” to inhabit for that week. You’ll be amazed to done, a discover how much more you’ll observe and And then there’s the food. Dinners on learn about the flora, fauna and geology of Volunteer Vacations are consummate feasts, so splash in the your surroundings. you can count on being well fed for the week— from buttery pancakes and piled-high ham creek, a well- Whatever your interest and ability, WTA sandwiches to tasty grilled salmon and steaks. offers a variety of different locations for And best of all, WTA brings it all in for you, by sited tent, Volunteer Vacations. If backpacking into a stock or vehicle. You don’t even have to carry remote backcountry campsite sounds right in any of the gourmet food you’ll be eating, or and a nice up your alley, there are trips in areas like the the tools you’ll be using on the trails. All you Pasayten Wilderness. If easy access is better need to bring are your own personal items. nap before for you, frontcountry locations like Sawtooth Ridge allow you to drive right in to your Midweek, you’ll even have an entire day off supper is a weeklong campground. Or if soft beds and hot from work. This will give you the chance to showers at the end of each workday are calling take a longer hike, climb to the top of a nearby combination your name, consider a site like Holden Village, peak, go fishing at a mountain lake, or just where you’ll take a boat, and then a bus, to soak in the sights, sounds and smells of your hard to beat. reach the historic bunkhouse you’ll reside in. wilderness setting—alone, or with new friends. Whatever activity you choose to enjoy on your – Janice VanCleve Once you’ve decided how and where you day off, you will invariably be remembering want to spend your week, any trip you choose these stories for years to come. will provide the same kind of crewmember camaraderie, helpful and dedicated leadership, adventure in nature and rewarding work. And BCRTs because this is still your vacation, workdays This may all sound great, but perhaps you’re usually end in the midafternoon, after which looking for a little more challenge and a little you’ll be free to take a dip in a nearby lake less padding on your week off. If this is the Fishin' time on a or stream, explore a trail to a stunning case, try a BCRT. Usually three to eight days BCRT at Black lookout, or enjoy time lounging around of moving from camp to camp, restoring trails camp with a good book or chatting as you go, these are the perfect trips for avid Lake. it up with your new mates. backpackers who appreciate more remote Anywhere you go, you’re wilderness locations. If you’re not so keen on bound to have fun. moving camps quite as much, WTA also “A job well done, offers BCRTs that are based at one site a splash in and move out from there daily to the creek, work on surrounding trails.

Photo by Trev Cookson 16 » WTA at Work March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

The good times await at this year's Volunteer Vacations, BCRTs and Youth Volunteer Vacations. Sign up now before t h ey' r e g o n e !

Chris Wall

Because BCRTs pay special attention to backcountry trails that have a tendency to be neglected, they are particularly invaluable. BCRT crew leader Mason White explains, “BCRTs are a great way to make sure that backcountry trails stay open in an era of declining trail maintenance budgets. Unmaintained or poorly maintained trails deter users and eventually get dropped from trail inventories and maps.” Sandra Hays On a BCRT, as in backpacking, you’ll carry with you everything that you need to survive in the wilderness—including the tools needed for your work on the trails. The labor can be strenuous, but the payoff comes at the end of each workday, when you’ll enjoy the same opportunities as other Volunteer Vacations: dining with your crew, playing games and sharing stories, hiking and swimming, or just hanging around a campfire and relishing your wilderness surroundings.

You’ll find yourself in spectacular remote locations, sharing them with only a handful of fellow volunteers, where you can truly appreciate Washington’s backcountry in all its splendor. And when the stars fill the night sky in all their wild glory above your campsite, you’ll blink a few times to make sure it’s real. And when you find that it is, you’ll store that image in your mind forever. Elise Evans Youth Volunteer Vacations Similar to adult Volunteer Vacations, youth trips are weeklong outings for high school students ages fourteen to eighteen. If you’re a teenager looking to make friends with other people who share your love of the outdoors, a week of maintaining hiking trails with other youth will undoubtedly be the highlight of your summer.

“WTA trips are amazing!” says Riley Coleman, a WTA youth volunteer. “In a week’s time you can make great friends who you will want to keep in contact with for years to come. And the work is always fun.”

From the time you arrive on-site, you’ll cook meals with your fellow crew members, learn how to build turnpikes or saw logs, then toss a Sarah Rich Frisbee around in the meadow next to your campsite in your down time. By the end of the week you’ll have nicknames for all of your crewmembers and a pocketful of new jokes and stories to carry home with you too.

To find more information on Volunteer WTA offers youth trips in both frontcountry and backcountry locations. Vacations, BCRTs or Youth Volunteer Check out the youth section of the WTA website to learn more about Vacations—or see the summer 2012 eligibility for these trips.t schedule for all trips—visit www.wta.org. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 17 1 There's Still Room for You Volunteer Vacations and BCRTs are in high demand this year. Here's just a sampling of some of the great trips still available this summer. Get your spot today before they're gone!

JUSTIN REZNICK There is nothing like working on a National Treasure, and that’s just 1 what Mount Rainier is. The Wonderland Trail from Ipsut Creek campground to Carbon Glacier has sustained much damage in the past few years, and needs your help to be put back together. You'll spend a 2 week working in the shadow of a giant. May 26–June 2; June 2–9

Sullivan Lake in the Salmo-Priest Wilderness sparkles below the 2 slopes of Hall Mountain and is famous for one of the largest bighorn sheep herds in the state. This 3-day trip will focus on treadwork and rock walls along the northern half of the lakeshore trail, and offers easy access for a fun and rewarding weekend. June 23–25

At Pear Lake you’ll work on the Pacific Crest Trail heading north. The JOE ROCCHIO 3 hike in is challenging, but the destination is worth the sweat you'll leave on the trail. Spend your afternoons off taking a refreshing dip in one of the nearby lakes, go for an easy climb up Fortune Mountain, or perhaps 3 meet up with a PCT thru-hiker. July 28–Aug. 4 Near the headwaters of the Little Wenatchee River, Meander 4 Meadow bursts with summer wildflowers. Here in the Glacier Peak Wilderness you will work on the Pacific Crest Trail headed towards Indian Pass. On your day off go fishing in the nearby creek or venture up to the aptly-named picturesque Kodak Peak—and don't forget your camera! Aug. 18–25; Aug. 25–Sept. 1

In the shadow of Mount Daniels, you'll camp alongside Deep Lake. TREVOR HIBLAR Your work day will be on the PCT switchbacks just underneath the 5magnificent Cathedral Rock. Spend your off-time picking huckleberries in the neighboring meadow, and make sure to make it up to the magical 4 Peggy’s Pond on your day off. Sept. 1–8; Sept. 8–15 Space is limited, so don't delay. For more information, or to reserve your place on one of these, or one of the many other exciting Volunteer Vacations or BCRTs WTA has planned for this summer, visit www.wta.org.

MEGGAN TROBAUGH

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CHRISTY AVERY 18 » WTA at Work March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Youth & Families »

Spring —Break! WTA Style The grass is growing, the birds are chirping, branches are dappled with new buds. What does this mean? Spring is on its way—and that means spring break will soon be here. Parents, have you been asking yourselves, “What am I going to do with the kids during spring break this year?” We have your answer. Students, are you thinking of days filled with friends, headed to the beach, and late nights with your Xbox trying to reach the highest score on Dance Central? We've got something even better. How about getting dirty outside with WTA, enhancing hiking trails and earning community service hours? WTA invites teens to spend a day outside with us this spring break. And parents, you can join a work party too. Families are always welcome on any trail work party. Ok, why would you want to do this? Well, it’s a great way to get out of the house and do something fun and active. The work is extremely satisfying, and by the end of the day you’ll feel good about all that you accomplished. There will be opportunities to use tools like a Pulaski or grub hoe and to learn about tread repair. Plus, there are always sweet treats midmorning and snacks and refreshments at the end of the day. Andrew and Max Benson at work on the Last year, Max Benson volunteered for two days with his son Andrew, trails at Evans Creek Preserve. a student at The Bear Creek School in Redmond. “It was one of those Photo by Krista Dooley few times that Andrew and I could participate together,” Max explained. “We both have pretty busy weekends during the school year and could not volunteer together except during his school breaks.” Benson shared that working alongside his son “was super. As a dad, I was proud that he worked hard the whole time.” Are you looking for Teens (and their parents) can join a one-day work party, or volunteer ideas on where to go all week and earn their very own personalized hard hat. And if you were looking forward to spending time with friends this spring break, hiking with your kids? encourage them to join you on trail. You’ll also make new acquaintances with the people working alongside you. Sign up for WTA’s Families Go “If you go [on a work party],” continues Max Benson, from his experience Hiking e-newsletter. with his son last spring, “you will have the privilege of working together with people of a variety of ages and backgrounds, where everyone is Here’s what you’ll get: working towards a common goal. I came home with renewed optimism u The best information on hiking about people. You will too.”t with kids – Krista Dooley u The latest family trip reports u Tips and tricks for planning your Coming for spring break 2012: next family camping trip April 9-13: Spring Lake/Lake Desire Park, near Renton u Featured seasonal hikes by Joan Burton, author of Best Hikes with Kids: April 16-20: Cougar Mountain, near Issaquah Western Washington & The Cascades For more information on how to join WTA for spring break, visit Sign up online at www.wta.org/kids www.wta.org/volunteer/trail-work-parties, or call (206) 625-1367. to get this seasonal e-newsletter Additional weekend work parties for teens: exclusively for families. March 24, April 14, May 12, June 2 family work party (Nat’l Trails Day) March + April 2012 » Washington Trails WTA at Work « 19 Action for Trails » Lobby Day 2012 Hikers from Anacortes to Vancouver gathered in Olympia for WTA’s Hiker Lobby Day on February 1, sending a message to legislators that recreation is a core public value and our state lands need to be funded accordingly. We kicked off the day with WTA’s advocacy director, Jonathan Guzzo, briefing the group on the latest recreation funding issues—the good, the bad and the ugly. The hot topic: changes to the Discover Pass that would make it transferable between two vehicles. The goal: improved sales revenue for state agencies by increasing customer satisfaction. Advocates had their work cut out for them though, as a group of legislators feel State Parks and the Department of Natural Resources recreation lands should be funded solely by Discover Pass revenue. Activists needed to make clear that Washington should fund and protect the state lands that make our state such a great place to live. The activists’ enthusiasm grew when guest speaker Rep. Hans Dunshee engaged them in a lively conversation on how easy it is to meet with elected officials, and provided helpful tips on how to best deliver our message. Off to the capitol, almost 50 strong, hikers met with their representatives, sharing stories of recent hikes on state lands, and why these public places are so important. Many of Washington’s legislators, also hikers, shared some of their own stories from the trail. At the end of the day, the outlook was promising for an improved Discover Pass. But it's not over. We need to continue speaking out for trails, and urge our representatives to continue public funding for our state recreation lands. – Kindra Ramos

From top left: Martin Barney (right) meets with Sen. Ranker (D-40); Pat Campbell (left) chats with Sen. Benton (R-17); Rep. Dunshee (D-44) speaks with the WTA lobbiests; John Floberg, Sue Olson and WTA’s Tim Van Beek outside the Capitol March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

State of

by John Floberg Bliss

Golden sunset at Deception Pass State Park, by Mike Morrison March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

by John Floberg Bliss

ou might pinch yourself, but this is no dream. Y For those who visit Washington state parks, startled amazement is an understandable response when you find yourself surrounded by such natural beauty and grandeur. Our blessings spill over with lifetimes of adventure—from the rugged and wild Pacific Coast to Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, from the Cascade and Olympic ranges to the vast openness of the Columbia Basin. 22 » NW Explorer March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

t first glance, state parks might seem to fall off the radar in the Acontext of so much public land. State parks represent less than “HidingOften without in even Plain noticing, Sight people 2 percent—only 250,000 of the 15.5 million acres—of public land in drive right past Federation Forest State Washington. But this is a park system that’s full of surprises. This Park. Unknown to them, this fantastic relatively small land base boasts more visitors than any other type of public land in the state, including Washington’s national parks. In 619-acre park offers quiet picnic areas and fact, just one state park, Deception Pass, receives more visitors each 12 miles of easy, secluded hiking trails, all year than Mount Rainier National Park (1.8 million vs. 1.2 million). And under stately forest along the banks of the there’s no lack of love for the other parks in the state system, with more than 40 million visitors each year. Yet many are unaware of what state White River. parks have to offer. Perhaps, you might ask, with such premier hiking My favorite time to visit is on crisp autumn destinations throughout Washington, what’s the value of state parks? days, when the forest turns golden, Location, Location, Location overhead and all over the ground, with gorgeous sunlight streaming in through the State parks, as a whole, are more widely distributed and easier to trees, and the White River flowing past like access in Washington than any other recreation-based public land. Parks are situated both relatively close to urban areas as well as in unique, molten silver.” remote locations. Fort Simcoe, for example, is accessible only at the – Goldie Silverman end of a 27-mile drive through the Yakama Indian Nation. The 200-acre interpretive park showcases some of the original buildings from when it was built in 1855—when the area was still Washington Territory, not Washington state. LoveNestled at in the Curlew Okanogan Lake Highlands, “ More “frontcountry” parks—closer to cities and towns—provide gateway Curlew Lake State Park is 123 acres of experiences that instill lifelong wilderness values and ethics. Wallace golden, grass-covered hillsides and groves Falls in the Cascades is a 4,735-acre camping park with hiking and of majestic ponderosa pines adorn the wildlife viewing amid old-growth forest and numerous lakes and rivers (check out the hike on page 48); Camp William T. Wooten on the shore of long and slender Curlew Lake. Tucannon River in the southeastern Blue Mountains offers mountain hiking trails and canoeing on Donnie Lake; on the Here, I took my girlfriend, Heather on Beacon Rock Columbia River boasts 5,100 acres of year-round camping, rock climbing her first camping trip. We spent the days and numerous hiking trails—some recently renovated by WTA. hiking the lonely Kettle Crest and the In this way, state parks represent a vital link to the larger, more remote nights at our lakeside campsite. We enjoyed lands of national forests and parks. These locations are key in offering morning visits by docile deer and evening first-time camping and hiking experiences, and are thus fundamental gatherings by inquisitive quails, savoring to cultivating a lifelong love of the outdoors and to building support for the sweet serenity of the park. In 2006 protecting and maintaining access to hiking destinations throughout Washington and beyond. we were married at Curlew Lake, where we return each summer, extoling in the Diversity Abounds beauties and charms of our favorite park. ” Washington’s state park system offers a tremendous range of – Craig Romano landscapes and habitats, and cultural and historical destinations. Visitors are invited to explore and experience coastlines to mountain peaks, old- growth forest to shrub-steppe, and coulee canyons to fjords. Unlike most

Federation Forest State Park, by Ray Meuse March + April 2012 » Washington Trails NW Explorer « 23

public recreation land in higher Cascades regions, many state parks such Snowshoeing in Mount Spokane as Larrabee near Bellingham or Cape Disappointment on the Columbia State Park, by Holly Weiler River are unique low-elevation sanctuaries that help sustain the winter hiker until the subalpine melts to meadow each year.

Before that glorious-yet-fleeting alpine bloom starts in late July, state parks offer up many months of wondrous wildflower displays each spring, from Potholes and Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Parks in Eastern Washington to Blind Island and Patos Island Parks in the San Juans. On the flip side, state parks present some of the earliest skiing and snowshoeing in the state each year at Mount Spokane State Park, and some of the latest opportunities for mountain biking and trail running at Saint Edward State Park on Lake Washington.

Yes, state parks are vital. They not only build a bridge between seasons and activities, they also nurture us as a stepping-stone to wilderness. From the little tyke learning to camp to the accomplished hiker scrambling up a rock pinnacle, or the senior trail-walker breathing in the syrupy scent of cottonwood buds in the spring, there’s something here for everyone. Crown Jewels of Washington

While you may be familiar with beloved parks such as Peace Arch and Deception Pass, state parks also include hidden gems like the Goldendale Astronomical Observatory, Gardner Limestone Cave at Kayaking off Jones Island State Crawford State Park, world-class whale watching at Lime Kiln Point on Park, by Steve Weileman San Juan Island and some of the most exciting windsurfing in the world at Doug’s Beach in the Columbia River Gorge.

State parks also possess the longest and most impressive rails-to-trails system in the state, including the Iron Horse (100 miles) running through Snoqualmie Pass, the Columbia Plateau Trail (130 miles) between east Pasco and Spokane, and the Willapa Hills Trail from Chehalis to South Bend (56 miles). But perhaps the most impressive trail of all is not in a single park but in a network of connected state parks, like jewels in a necklace, that make up the backbone of the 150-mile Cascadia Marine Trail from Olympia to Point Roberts near the Canadian border. This unique marine trail itself connects with premier island hiking destinations, some of which are accessible only by small boat, such as Sucia Island, Hope Island and James Island State Parks. State Parks Belong to You

While our state parks suffer an embarrassment of natural riches, real funds to support staff and programs have been impacted as a result of the recent local and global recession. General fund support from

Curlew Lake State Park, by Craig Romano 24 » NW Explorer March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

the state budget once made up the majority of backing for state parks, but some decision-makers would like to see all general fund support eliminated entirely by 2013. Ironically, 2013 is also the year of the state park system’s centennial anniversary. You can help support parks by purchasing a Discover Pass for $30, which gives you year-long access not only to state parks, but also to recreation lands of the Department of Natural Resources and the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Discover Pass purchases are now the most important kind of support in keeping parks open, rangers on staff, and the public programs you appreciate ongoing.

But that’s not all. Without spending a cent, you can provide enormous value to state parks. Of more than 100 state parks, only 27 have volunteer support groups (often called “friends” groups) currently established. These groups carry out special events, fundraising, educational programming and much more every day to support state Interpretive program at Deception Pass parks. You could choose to join a friends group at your favorite park or State Park, courtesy of WSPRC even start your own. In fact, there are people at the Washington State Parks Foundation (WSPF) ready to help steer you in the direction of your interests. In addition, you can join with Washington Trails Association and the WSPF to advocate on issues that are important to hikers and state parks in general—or join a WTA volunteer trail work party hosted in a state park near you.

But most importantly, get out and enjoy your state parks. Take a hike, climb a mountain, have a picnic, walk on a beach, chat with a ranger, watch a sunset, camp overnight, or just kick back and relax. Whatever you choose to do, you can experience your own state of bliss.t

John Floberg is the executive director of the Washington State Parks Foundation. He moved from NYC to Seattle in 1995 after looking at a map of the United States and asking, “Where would I most want to live?”

Deer at Steamboat Rock State Park, Best of the State Parks: courtesy of WSPRC Hiking: q Mount Spokane q Moran q Larrabee

Family camping: q Deception Pass q Pearrygin Lake q Lake Wenatchee

Coastal Beaches: q Cape Disappointment q Dugualla q Leadbetter

Wildlife viewing: q Bay View q Damon Point q Point Riverside

Wildflowers: q Columbia Hills q Fields Spring q Steamboat Rock

Waterfalls: q Wallace Falls q Olallie q Palouse Falls

Rock climbing: q Peshastin Pinnacles q Beacon Rock

The Washington State Parks Foundation mission is to support state parks by cooperating with organizations, and encouraging gifts to support and improve state parks. For more information, call (206) 437-6086 or visit www.wspf.org. Dugualla State Park, by Mike Morrison March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

Watch flocks of seabirds

on rocky shores, hike along Quimper Peninsula Æ a beach or historic fort,

tour a cidery, browse local

farmers markets and enjoy A delicious local cuisine. Sound From Marrowstone Island Escape by Lauren Braden to Port Townsend, the From Seattle, catch a ferry across Puget Sound, then head over the Hood Canal Bridge onto SR-104. Take a right on SR-19, Beaver Valley Quimper Peninsula has Road, and head north. This is the Quimper Peninsula.

First up, make a stop at the (1) Chimacum Corner Farmstand something for everyone—all (chimacumcorner.com) and pick up a deli sandwich for lunch later. This new community store stocks a healthy sampling of the agricultural bounty of the Quimper Peninsula. Load up your cooler with fresh in a Northwest Weekend. produce, local meats, artisan cheeses and wine.

Time to hit the beach! Head for Jefferson County’s (2) South Indian Island Park. The 4-mile round trip trail starts through madrone woods with a carpet of salal, then spills out onto a long, sandy beach with piles of strewn driftwood. On a clear day, Mount Rainier will greet you as you come out of the woods onto the beach. Keep an eye on the lagoon as you hike if you want a chance to spot common loons, bufflehead and other diving waterfowl. On the way to the park, you’ll pass (3) Chimacum Cafe; make a note to stop here for some terrific post-hike pie.

After your hike, hit the tasting room at (4) Finnriver Farm and Cidery (finnriver.com) and get ready for an experience in the art of hand-crafted

Fort Flagler State Park Photo by Lauren Braden

Inset: Northwest Fisherman's Stew at Ajax Cafe Photo by Rina Jordan 26 » NW Explorer March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

cider. This 33-acre working farm produces fruits, whole grains and veggies, along with chickens, goats, ducks and pigs. In 2010, farmers Keith and Chrystie Kisler bottled their first small batch of artisan hard apple cider on the Finnriver label, and now produce a variety of tasty sparkling ciders and fruit-infused brandies. They also produce a méthode champenoise that’s nice for more festive occasions. Try as many varieties as you like (don’t miss the sparkling pear, black currant, or citrusy dry-hopped cider—these are all hiker favorites).

If the foot traffic is light in the tasting room, Keith or Chrystie will gladly give you a short tour to show you their equipment and how they produce their hand-crafted ciders, a process that takes many months. Walk about the farm, too, and see the acres of vegetables grown here, visit with the animals and marvel at the rows of more than 1500 heritage apple trees they’ve planted. You can buy ciders in the tasting room by the bottle or the case.

For dinner, head straight to the nearby (5) Ajax Cafe (ajaxcafe.com) where the menu is inventive and the ingredients are fresh and locally- sourced. Once seated in the funky-chic dining room, have a look around at your fellow patrons. Are they donning silly hats? There’s an entire wall of splendid hats from nearly every era to choose from in the back hallway, and regulars head straight there to select a headdress to wear throughout the meal. Feel free to join them. Your menu may at first look like an old record album. Peek inside and you’ll see that it is, in fact, a menu printed with creative, seasonal dishes such as chanterelle and crab bisque with local Dungeness crab, or Provence-style roast chicken from a local, sustainable farm. On Saturday nights, you’ll be tapping your foot along to local music while you enjoy your meal.

After dinner, turn in for the night at the (6) Beach Cottages on Marrowstone (beachcottagegetaway.com). This ecological resort is set on one of the most stunning locations on Puget Sound—the southern tip of Marrowstone Island (accessible by bridge, no ferry required). Bring binoculars to peep a plethora of shorebirds and seabirds easily viewed through the wall of windows in your cozy waterfront cabin. Relax with hot cocoa out on your deck, where the panoramic view of the snowcapped Olympics might compete with the sight of a bald eagle fishing for salmon right in front of you. Set aside time for beachcombing on their 10 acres of private tidelands. All cottages have full kitchens and are heated with woodstoves.

Feel like roughing it? Nearby (7) Fort Flagler State Park on the north tip of Marrowstone Island has more than 60 tent campsites and is open to camping year-round (parks.wa.gov).

The next morning, wake up with the sunrise. Your beach cottage has a full kitchen, so cook up breakfast there and enjoy the spectacle while you have it. Although you may be tempted to linger with that view of the sun coming up over Rainier, there are hiking trails calling your name.

Chimacum Cafe sign, by Francine Rose; Finn- river ciders and apples, courtesy of Finnriver Farm; Farm Burger with bleu cheese and carmelized onions at Ajax Cafe, by Rina Jordan; South Indian Island Park, by Craig Romano March + April 2012 » Washington Trails NW Explorer « 27

Head north on Marrowstone and make a quick stop at the (8) Nordland General Store (or as chatty locals jokingly call it, the Nordland Mall). This is your morning spot for coffee, snacks and communing with the locals. For a general store in the middle of an island, it has an impressive selection of gourmet goods like fresh pastas and fancy crackers.

Time for a hike with a history lesson. At the northern tip of Marrowstone is (7) Fort Flagler State Park (Discover Pass required), one of five impressive military installations that were established in close proximity to protect Puget Sound from invaders during times of war. In the 1950s, all five were converted to state parks, giving the public access to thousands of near-shore acres and miles of prime coastline. Fort Flagler is the largest of them all. Park at the north end of the campground and start your 5-mile loop hike on the stony beach, enjoying the views across to Port Townsend in one direction and Whidbey Island in the other. To your right are towering bluffs, atop which is another trail you can take later if there is time.

Dress in warm layers, as this trail wraps around Marrowstone Point and the wind intensity may change on you. At 2.25 miles, leave the sandy beach and climb the bluff, hike around a lagoon, and eventually make your way back to your starting point. Along the way, you’ll pass a handful of historic buildings and other structures. Bring binoculars to spot bald eagles on the bluff and dabbling ducks in the lagoon.

By now you’ll have worked up an appetite. Head back to Chimacum, where the (3) Chimacum Farmers Market (jeffersoncountyfarmers- market.org, Sundays May–October) will please with more than a dozen booths and food carts. Try a freshly boiled bagel or loaded taco, and stock up on jams, honey, grass-fed beef and local cheeses. Off-season, head back to the (3) Chimacum Cafe for a burger and slice of pie before heading back to the ferry.

If you’re in no hurry to get home, spend your afternoon browsing the streets and shops of the Victorian city of (9) Port Townsend. In addition to antique shops and bookstores, top stops include the Northwest Maritime Center and Fort Worden State Park. If staying for dinner before catching your ferry back, try the (9) Silverwater Cafe (silverwatercafe. com), where sumptuous meals are delicately created with locally-sourced ingredients, and paired with fantastic wines and cocktails.t Nordland General Store on Marrowstone, by Lauren Braden; Blufftop trail at Fort Flagler State Park, by Craig Romano

dungeness bay

port Port Angeles townsend

to queets 101 sequim MARROW- sequim INDIAN DISCOVERY STONE bay ISLAND bay 20

to hurricane ridge 116

port ludlow OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK 101 19 to olympia March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

Reflections of a Park Ranger By Stacy Czebotar Forme r

remember visiting the local library, where front of me. I called my dad on my drive home, I paged curiously through an aging, water- and I told him that I was going to apply to a law I stained book that described the rewards enforcement academy and become a park ranger. of being a park ranger. That year, I began volunteering with the National Park Service as an I sent in my application to the Parks Law interpretive guide at Hopewell Furnace National Enforcement Academy in Mount Vernon, Historic Site, near Birdsboro, Pennsylvania. I loved Washington. I couldn’t believe my luck that there working with the rangers. I loved their uniforms, was an academy so close to my parents’ home in their hats, their badges. I loved that rangers could Maryland. When I received my acceptance letter, answer visitors’ questions and help solve their I was ecstatic. I tried numerous times to call the problems. What a wonderful job that must be. commander of the academy, confused as to why he was not working at 8 a.m. and why the area Years later, in the pressure cooker of college, I code looked odd. Uh-oh. Then it occurred to me— found myself struggling to figure out who I wanted Mount Vernon is in Washington state! (Typically, to be. One day at Hopewell, the superintendent for anybody living on the East Coast, the only stopped by to chat with me. When I shared my “Washington” that we acknowledge is Washington, career woes, he asked quite simply, “What do D.C.) I was not deterred. And with that, I began you love to do?” Without hesitation I responded, packing for the most ridiculously wonderful error “I love being here.” My answer was right there in that has ever happened to me. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

When I was 11 years“ old, I told my parents that I wanted to be a park ranger.”

Moonrise over Twanoh State Park; Inset: Washington State Parks ranger hat. Photos by Stacy Czebotar 30 » NW Explorer March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

I flew to Washington (state), having never set foot in the Pacific Northwest. I instantly fell in love with it, knowing this was where I wanted to live and work. At Mount Vernon, I completed my 100,000-page (not really, but it sure felt like it) ranger application, in which I admitted anything wrong that I ever did in my entire life—including an incident at the age of thirteen, when I accidentally walked out of a store holding a 69-cent beach ball (I later returned it, realizing my mistake—but I still felt guilty about “stealing” it). I then became an official park ranger applicant with Washington State Parks.

I interviewed for the park ranger position at Twanoh State Park in September of 2005. I was so nervous. I had never wanted anything so badly in my entire life. Two hours after my interview, I received a phone call from Ranger Joel Pillers. “Well, you did pretty well on the interview, but we were a little concerned about some of the answers to your questions. Some of the other candidates just really wowed us.” I could feel a lump forming in my throat, and I started to panic. I frantically tried to recall the answers I had given to the interview questions. Sensing my alarm, Pillers’ voice melted from solemn and serious into hysterical laughter. “I’m just kidding—you did great! You’ve got the job. You’re a park ranger.” It was one of the happiest moments of my life.

I will always cherish the day that I received my commission. It was a very cold day in Olympia. This was the ceremony where I took my oath of office and received authority from the state to enforce the law. It was a big deal— despite the hideous female dress bow tie I wore. As I raised my right hand and took my oath I felt like I was getting married. Being a ranger wasn’t just going to be a job—it was going to be my life. It wasn’t something to take March + April 2012 » Washington Trails NW Explorer « 31 lightly—it permeates the soul and flows in the in my badge, saying goodbye to co-workers veins. I was so proud of my new badge, and who were more akin to family, and letting go of what it represented, that I left my winter coat a special park that I loved was heartbreaking. I unzipped and pulled slightly to the side so thought about how much I had wanted this job, that the emblem could shimmer in the sun for how hard it was to earn this job, and how hard The everybody to see. it was going be to give up this job—this life. thought“ of Being a park ranger was special. It was not As the end of my ranger career loomed just a job, but rather an identity. I developed ahead, I was walking through Twanoh at dusk turning in my a habit of telling people that I was a park one evening. The water of Hood Canal was ranger in conjunction with telling them my as still and as smooth as I have ever seen it; name, “Ranger Czebotar.” The two pieces of the deep blue of the darkening sky created an badge, saying information were virtually inseparable from azure glow. The full moon shone brightly in the each other. I got used to hearing, “You have the sky and reflected perfectly in the water below. goodbye to best job in the world.” I would agree—because After uttering an audible “Wow!” I stood and it was true. stared at the view in silence. It was a perfect moment—a moment in which I realized that not coworkers... I loved performing the duties of a park many people have had the chance to work each ranger—and I found that these were often day in a place so special and beautiful. letting go of the subject of many a photograph. (As many rangers would attest—myself included—we loved I am so fortunate to have been a ranger with a park I loved our jobs so much that we even loved looking at Washington State Parks. Without a shadow of photos of our parks—and of ourselves at work.) a doubt, I loved my job. There were days that As such, I started compiling my own park were difficult, frustrating, frightening, inspiring, was heart- ranger photo resume: interacting with children, surprising and thrilling. For the chance to presenting at campfires, holding or using a fulfill the dream of an eleven-year old girl, the breaking. chainsaw, operating a boat, training with adventure had been better than I could ever firearms and, of course, posing for the standard have imagined. As I reflect on the badge that ” dramatic photo in front of a patrol vehicle. Life once glistened on my uniform, I am struck by was good. how much meaning such a small object can have. When I first received my commission, On December 30, 2011—after more than six I read that an officer wears a badge over the years of service at Twanoh—I was handed a heart to symbolize the pledge that they have pink slip. Due to the ongoing budget crisis made. When I was commissioned as a ranger, that Washington State Parks has been facing, I swore my oath of office with a full heart. I my job was eliminated—along with more than realize now that my badge has left its own Stacy Czebotar, 100 others. Crushed, I was forced to perceive lingering impression. Last month, when I was state park ranger the end of my career as a ranger. I tried to be asked to turn it in, what I handed over was Photo by Erielle rational. “I’ll find another career. Something merely a piece of metal attached to a pin. The Flores good will come out of this. I’ll be OK.” But then, true meaning of that badge, and the memories because I am fueled by emotional passion, my of my life as a park ranger, are mine to keep— Location photos t true feelings took over. The thought of turning locked in my heart forever. courtesy of WSPRC. 32 » Backcountry March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Backcountryy The Gear Closet »

Ahh, spring. Slopes of frosty white give way to luxurious mossy greenery along quiet, forested trails. Budding wildflowers prepare for their annual parade, and misty waterfalls gush over rocky precipices. Oh, and there’s the occasional downpour.

For the last six months, the Washington Trails gear team has been hard at work testing the latest in rain gear offerings—from jackets and pants to hats, gloves and gaiters—in efforts to help prepare and protect you from the damp spring elements while out on the trail.

It was a challenging test among the many brands and material types we sampled. The criteria ranged from effective water-repellency, comfort and breathability, weight and packability, pockets and other features, to the all-important price factor. In the end, we narrowed our choices from the amazingly economical to the best of the high-tech.

You really can’t get more bang for your buck out of a waterproof shell jacket than with the MontBell Thunder Pass Jacket. This rugged three-layer waterproof jacket is ideal for shrugging off our soggy Pacific Northwest weather; keeping the elements away from your body, while releasing the moisture your body produces through its ventilated pockets and full pit zips. Not weighed down with lots of bells and whistles, the Thunder Pass has exactly what you need: pack- friendly pockets, a roll-back hood large enough to accommodate a climbing helmet, cuffs and waist that can be Gear tester cinched down, and a flap that goes Patrick Leahy over the front zipper to help seal out is totally RAB– rain. It also comes with its own stuff knocking back sack. Fit-wise, it offers ample room the elements in the waist to go over your hips, in the Demand and the proportions of the jacket are Pull-On Jacket made perfectly for women. If you’re in and Sawtooth the market for a tough, affordable rain Pants shell, this is it. $99 March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 33

You want a lightweight, waterproof, breathable, full-featured jacket and pant combo that won’t break the bank and doesn’t skimp on the details? Look no further than Mountain Hard- wear’s Stretch Cohesion Jacket and Pants, utilizing the new Dry.Q Core technology. The Cohesion jacket has both core and pit zip vents for excellent breathability, a superbly designed hood large enough for a climbing helmet, and two chest pockets perfect for access with a pack on. Our female tester was impressed that the women’s jacket flared Q: What is the at the waist, allowing a much better fit over the hips, while the men’s best way to version allows for broader shoulders with simple, straighter seams restore waterproof along the torso. The slight stretch of the Ark 30D fabric provides characteristics to a a full range of motion, whether in high alpine endeavors or just garment that has reaching up to pull down your bear bag. We noticed the stretch even been washed with more predominantly in the Cohesion pants. Instead of the typical detergent or just clammy and sticky feeling of most rain shell pants, these pants gotten dirty? stretch smoothly with every monster uphill step you take—brilliant! — Ken Giesbers The three-quarter zips allow for critical ventilation and easy removal, even with crampons. Combine the impenetrable water Washing with resistance with that little bit of stretch and you’ll wish you had A: detergent isn’t this performance in all of your outerwear. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a necessarily bad better jacket pant combination. Jacket $170; pants $130 for the material, just be sure it’s a powder, not a liquid. There When we first tried on theSherpa Resham Jacket, we are detergents immediately noticed the feel of the surface material: soft, specifically made silky and flexible—highly unlike most other rain shells out for waterproof, there today—making it decidedly comfortable to wear while allowing breathable items, complete freedom of movement. And light! At just 12.6 ounces, the such as Nikwax Resham is extremely compressible and easily packable, perfect for Tech Wash. day hikes and backpacks. Comfortable on moderately cool days, After washing, the roomy-yet-not-frumpy fit allowed a heavy midlayer to be added use a wash-in without uncomfortable bulking when the temps dropped. When the waterproofing rains came, the unique three-layer polyurethane laminate proved both product (like extremely rain-repellent and breathable, utilizing fully taped seams. Nikwax TX Direct) The extra-large, pack-friendly hand pockets also double as vents to and be sure to maintain comfort. For its weight, function, comfort and performance, dry your garment the Resham was a go-to favorite. The only thing we had to get in a dryer—the used to was the European-style reversed zippers—but that’s just us. heat helps to Available in men’s and women’s sizes. $199 activate your garment’s proofing U.K. manufacturer RAB has designed a superlight alpine properties. jacket for all your favorite outdoor pursuits in the RAB — Cheri Higman & Demand Pull-On. Constructed of three-layer eVent, this coat Patrick Leahy is absolutely waterproof and extremely breathable, despite having no pit zips (the deep three-quarter zipper provides plenty of ventilation). Even during heavy wind and dumping rain on the Esmeralda Peaks loop, we Got a question were extremely impressed with the protection provided by this 10-ounce for our experts? jacket, due in part to the lower-cut back, with just enough added coverage. Send an email to The helmet-compatible hood with wired brim was our favorite feature, [email protected] hugging the head exactly where it should, and still allowing for and ask. excellent peripheral vision. Combine the jacket with RAB Sawtooth Pants, and you’ll have a combo you’ll absolutely love—we sure did! If your question In our female tester’s words, “With an athletic build—smaller waist is selected for the and a rear that can kick any mountain’s butt—it’s tough to find a next issue, you pant that fits well. The Sawtooths are it!” From hiking, climbing could win a piece to snowshoeing and Nordic ski trips, they did not disappoint. Two of trail-tested zippered thigh pockets contain small items, while the zippered and hiking gear. ventilated cargo pockets are perfect for maps, food, gloves or a hat. This month, Ken Fabulous in all seasons, the Sawtooths can be pushed to their limits Giesbers has won by simply adding a base layer. With excellent water repellency, tons a Primus Polaris of stretch, and an absolutely superb, comfortable fit, you don’t have Lantern. to be a technical climber to appreciate all the features this bomber RAB combo has to offer. Jacket $290; pants $110 34 » Backcountry March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

We were pleasantly surprised when we first tried onColumbia’s Peak Power Jacket. Light and easy to wear, it was exceptionally comfortable with the rapid release of heat going uphill, with under-arm vents that provided ample cooling airflow. The large, lined and reinforced main pockets—which can also be opened for additional venting—are perfect for keeping the hands tucked, while roomy inside pockets let you stow small items. The Peak Power jacket employs a unique feature: the shoulders are dotted with non-slip material to help keep pack straps in place. The new Omni-Dry material performed superbly—very breathable, waterproof and windproof. For spring 2012, the Peak Power jacket is being upgraded to the Peak 2 Peak Jacket (pictured). It will have the same design and construction as the former, but feature two additional zippered chest pockets, improved Invizzip zipper construction and bold new color combinations. This is not the Columbia we’re used to—and we’re happy to see where they’re going. $350

When it comes to high-tech water-repellency, the Arc’teryx Beta AR Jacket is a hands- down winner. It’s on the spendy side, but this technical, trim-fit rain shell will keep you dry through the worst of temperamental weather, and it packs so many features we can’t even begin to list them all. For an athletic-cut style, we found the Beta AR to be remarkably giving in its freedom of movement, with articulated elbows and gusseted underarms, hence no bulking up under pack straps. The full, high-back collar and helmet-compatible Drop Hood help to keep the chills out with the hood up or down. Roomy pockets? The Beta’s got ’em, in addition to an internal chest pocket, all with laminated WaterTight zippers. And performance is impeccable. In pouring rain in the Olympics, the Gore-Tex Pro Shell surface had water rolling right off it, and the fully seam-sealed construction ensured no leakage. The jacket was highly breathable overall, but when things really heated up, large pit zips allowed for additional venting. Sleek and lightweight, the Beta AR is the Ferrari of weather-resistant outerwear. Available in men’s and women’s sizes. $450

These are but a handful of our team’s favorite items. There’s a wide selection of quality products out there, in a variety of fabrics, fits and styles, available to suit every rainy season activity, interest and budget. So for hiking, biking, climbing, trail running or just adding new gear to your Ten Essentials, try any one of these and stay dry this spring, mile after mile.t

Visit www.wta.org/gear for additional selections of quality rain gear by more of your favorite outdoor brands: The North Face, Patagonia, Outdoor Research and more. The Washington Trails gear team Coming in April: Keeping the gear team dry was just half the battle. Keeping their gear dry is Cherie Bevers, was another effort altogether. Watch for April's Trail News exclusive where we highlight the team’s Cheri Higman, favorite water-repellent accessories—packs, pack covers, dry bags, cases and more—to help you get Patrick Leahy the most out of the rainy season, with dry self and dry gear. and Eli Boschetto

The Outdoor Research shell in mild temps, or if the mercury drops, Seattle Sombrero is add the included wool-blend liner. $140 the hat to own in the While you may employ a solid jacket-pants Northwest. Its versatile design protects you When slogging down a trail in the rain your combo on your rainy-day adventures, from rain, snow and sun. Taslan Gore-Tex boots are exposed to the most moisture— remember the remaining unprotected in the crown makes it waterproof and mud, puddles, wet vegetation—and even areas: head, hands and feet. These key parts breathable while WickLine lining whisks the most waterproof of the body lose heat rapidly, so adding moisture away. It features an internal cinch boots can start to feel coverage—hats, gloves, even a little extra band, letting you create damp and clammy. Not on the boots—will provide a dramatic the perfect fit. $55 while wearing Outdoor increase in wet-weather comfort. Research’s Salamander A durable, waterproof, Gaiters. These seam- breathable gauntlet taped gaiters offer full glove is a must in the coverage of your hiking backcountry for full pro- boots. $45 tection from the elements, and Mountain Hardwear’s Typhon Gloves are a bombproof choice that puts up with all the abuse you throw at it. Wear just the March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 35

The Evolution of Waterproof Fabrics Early rain gear was not very pleasant for hikers. It usually relied on a polyurethane (PU) layer within the garment’s material to move moisture through diffusion, a two-step process similar to “wicking” (the process by which moisture is transported away from the body). With traditional PU fabrics, a person needed to both perspire and be warm for the process to be activated. The downside was a buildup of perspiration during heavy exertion, leaving the wearer wet and cold going downhill or resting. Then came Gore-Tex, or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Fabricated with the inclusion of billions of tiny pores per square inch, it allowed water vapor to escape outward—before the buildup of perspiration—while keeping water droplets (rain) from entering. (The smallest water droplets at 10 microns are still a billion times larger than water vapor molecules.) It also employed an ultra-thin layer of PU to protect the PTFE layer from damaging dirt and oils. Today, waterproof breathable rain gear fabrics commonly consist of Detail graphic of Mountain Hardwear’s up to three separate layers of unique material, often employing an outer Dry.Q Core in action. face fabric, a waterproof breathable layer (either an ultra-thin, weblike membrane or a liquid polyurethane coating) and an optional lining. The outer layer is usually treated with a durable water repellence (DWR) finish. We extend our thanks to Typically, the more layers, the better the construction, the higher the price (though there are exceptions). WTA’s Corporate Partners Manufacturers of waterproof breathable fabrics are constantly searching Rainier - $25,000+ for the ultimate material. While the technologies are a guarded secret, new materials are being designed lighter, and more breathable—some even eliminating the PU layer entirely—giving the original Gore-Tex a run for its money. Here’s a some of what you’ll find in many outerwear products now.

The original water-repellent breathable membrane, Gore-Tex now produces the high-tech ProShell and the new ActiveShell. They are fabricated with an oleophobic (oil-hating) substance to prevent the Olympic - $10,000-$24,999 penetration of body oils and bug repellents that could affect performance.

On the heels of Gore-Tex, eVent is an advanced technology that is similar to PTFE in composition, but without the need for the protective PU layer. This allows faster moisture-vapor transport than a PTFE-PU combo. Its unique composition allows millions of tiny pores to breathe at their full potential. Sweat vents directly to the outside of the fabric in one easy step.

Mountain Hardwear’s new Dry.Q family of waterproof breathable Cascade - $2,500-$9,999 materials comes in the form of Dry.Q Core, combining performance with value; Dry.Q Active, a stretchy, lightweight fabric for active sports; and Dry.Q Elite, made for ultimate durability, waterproofness and breathability that starts working the moment you put it on.

In select Columbia styles, Omni-Dry circulates air through the fabric, helping to regulate the conditions in the garment and keep excess moisture from collecting inside. This is achieved by the material’s being Alpine - $1,000-$2,499 highly air permeable and extremely thin and lightweight. HikingBoots.com, Hilleberg the A new contender this year, Polartec NeoShell is produced with an Tentmaker, The Mountaineers Books, exclusive membrane that engages convection to move moisture vapor away rapidly. Even at extremely low levels of pressure, air flows in and The Noble Fir, Outdoor Research, out of the fabric, pulling moisture out to keep the wearer dry, even during Orthopedics International, Seattle high-exertion activities. The new fabric is almost 100 percent windproof, Outdoor, Therm-a-Rest® and MSR® and offers light stretching for comfort during high output activities.t To find out how your company can support – Cherie Bevers WTA’s work for trails, please call us at (206) To maintain their water repellency and prolong their lives, waterproof 625-1367 or email [email protected]. garments must be cleaned and periodically re-proofed. Nikwax and Gear- Aid offer products specifically formulated to keep articles performing at their best—and keeping you dry on the trails season after season. 36 » OnBackcountry Trail March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

These are otters. But are these sea otters or river otters? While the two species may look similar, they have actually taken different approaches to their aquatic life.

Otters are members of the mustelid (weasel) family, which also includes mink, ferrets, badgers, martens, wolverines and skunks. This diverse family occupies a variety of niches from the water (otters) to the Otter trees (martens and fishers) to the ground (badgers, weasels), and can be found from the arctic to the tropics. The sea otter is among the largest mustelids; males can weigh 70 pounds or more. The river otter is smaller, in the reaching only up to 30 pounds. From the River …

Of the two species, the river otter (Lontra canadensis) has the most widespread range, historically native to each of the lower 48 states and Alaska. River otters are impressive travelers. In Washington, they may live anywhere there is water, including venturing into the urban jungles Water of Seattle and Tacoma. The normal range of an adult may include 10 miles of streamfront, yet there are stories of live-trapped and translocated By Sylvia Feder otters finding their way home over distances of 70 miles or more.

River otters are powerful swimmers and do much of their foraging in It’s dawn, and you’re strolling water, but unlike their seafaring cousins, they also spend a great deal of time on land, including sleeping, grooming, giving birth and nursing along the Discovery Trail from their young. Interestingly, young otters are not born knowing how to Sequim to Port Angeles on the swim, but must be coached into the water and taught.

Olympic Peninsula. As the trail turns While the name suggests a preference for freshwater, river otters often north, you’re walking just a few feet forage in brackish or even salt water. They are opportunistic hunters, from the water. Out in the surf, you dining on a variety of foods from fish and crustaceans to beetles, birds’ eggs and small mammals. They have sensitive whiskers for murky water spot small brown animals bobbing and a keen sense of smell to detect prey. in the waves. Their whiskered faces, dark bodies and flat tails undulate Unlike most mustelids, otters are social creatures, living in family groups consisting of an adult female, her offspring, and often one or two through the water. unrelated “helpers.” Social bonds are strengthened by group hunting, grooming and play. Young otters take play to an art form, spending hours sliding, chasing and wrestling with each other. Even the unbiased observer would have a difficult time not seeing the joy and exuberance in a group of playing otters.

Below: A mother sea otter and pup float off Washington’s Olympic Coast. Opposite: A curious river otter rests on a log in Rattlesnake Lake. Photos by Tami Asars Illustrations by Sylvia Feder March + April 2012 » Washington Trails BackcountryOn Trail « 37

While Washington appears to have a healthy population of river otters, the species still faces potential threats from urban sprawl, development and increasing levels of pesticides that leach into our waterways.

… To the Sea

Washington’s other otter species, the sea otter (Enhydra lutris), spends virtually its entire life in the ocean. Graceful in the water, it is slow and awkward when forced onto land. Sea otters forage by diving to the sea floor, where they gather clams, mussels and other invertebrates. They often use rocks to smash shells to obtain the tender meat inside, making them one of the few mammals that use tools. Although adults generally forage alone, they rest together in large groups called rafts, which may contain up to 100 individuals.

The sea otter’s adaptations to living in cold seawater are many: it has big lungs, a very high metabolic rate, and a nose and ears that can close to exclude water. Sea otters have large kidneys to be able to process salt water; they also derive at least some of their water from the metabolism of their food. And since they lack the insulating blubber of other marine mammals, sea otters have evolved a denser fur coat than any other mammal—reportedly one million hairs per square inch. Between the waterproof guard hairs and the soft undercoat, the skin of a healthy and clean otter never gets wet.

It was this thick, soft, luxurious coat that intertwined sea otters with Pacific coastal history. Starting in the mid-1700s, when explorer Vitus Bering returned to Russia with sea otter pelts, this “soft gold” provided the primary incentive for explorations up and down the Pacific coast. Eager buyers from China to Europe fueled the demand for sea otter fur. As the years went by, Russians, Canadians and Americans each took their turn hunting, extirpating and then searching for new otter populations. By the mid-1800s, sea otter populations were so reduced that commercial hunting was no longer viable.

By then, many naturalists believed that the sea otter was on an inexorable path to extinction. Even though as many as 1,000 individuals were thought to survive, they were in small, isolated and vulnerable populations scattered along the coast from the Aleutians to California. Finally, in 1911, a fur treaty between Russia, Japan, England and the U.S. gave protection to sea otters, and although poaching was an occasional threat, the otter population gradually began recovering.

In 1969, small groups of otters were relocated to Washington from Amchitka Island, on the Aleutian chain. These otters have now reached a sustainable population of over 1,000 animals, mostly from Neah Bay to Destruction Island, are beginning to venture into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and have been sighted near the town of Sekiu.

Not all species have been so lucky. About the same time that the sea otter was being pursued for its pelt, a similar campaign was being conducted on the Atlantic coast with the sea mink, a large, unique coastal-living animal with thick reddish fur. A testament to hunting efficiency and lack of conservation, the sea mink was exterminated by 1860.

Back on the Discovery Trail, the sun is bright on the water. The trail is filled with walkers, joggers and bicyclists, and the otters have disappeared. These were likely river otters, probably an extended family of a female and her pups. To complete your otter odyssey, you need to drive only another couple of hours to the coast. There, you have a chance to view sea otters, foraging and resting in offshore kelp beds. These remarkably curious and playful animals represent a species that nearly disappeared, yet are now making a dramatic comeback, proving to be a clear example of successful conservation at work.t 38 » Backcountry March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

Book Review » Kim Brown Hike the PCT (From Anywhere) There’s something romantic about the 2,655- mile long* Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Strewn with dreams, soul-searching endeavors, and ghosts of the past, the PCT seems to tingle with the spirits of those who have traveled here before: Federal Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas; Triple-Crown hiker Eric Ryback; Ann Marshall, daughter of WTA’s founder, Louise Marshall; as well as countless others that have been inspired by or undertaken the exhausting yet unforgettable trek from Mexico to Canada.

The Pacific Crest Trailside Reader, Oregon and Washington, is a collection of essays by dreamers, thru-hikers and section hikers of the PCT, allowing you to enjoy traveling portions of the PCT in the form of delightful vignettes, chosen by Rees Hughes and Corey Lee Lewis. Stories of high-water crossings, stubborn horses, near-disasters and misjudgment keep you turning the pages with firsthand passages by William Sullivan, Amanda Carter, Eric Ryback,† and many more.

Mixed in with the deeply personal essays, humorous tales and moving poetry, the volume also touches on the legislative history of the PCT, the spotted owl controversy, and the story of the Naches Wagon Road, all making this an excellent read, by fireplace or campfire. Just pick through the many essays and choose the one that fits your mood until you’ve read them all. And when you’re finished, you can sit back and dream of your own trip—whether you’ve done it in the past, or planning it for the future.

The Pacific Crest Trailside Reader, Oregon and Washington; Adventure, History and Legend on the Long-Distance Trail, Rees Hughes and Corey Lee Lewis, editors. Published by The Mountaineers Press. Also available: The Pacific Crest Trailside Reader, California.t

*The trail grew by 5 miles this summer, thanks to the new bridge over Washington’s Suiattle River and trail reroute.

†Eric Ryback is credited with the first successful completion of the PCT in 1970. Unlike most present-day PCT-ers, he started from Canada in June and spent over a month struggling through snow, heading south to Mexico. There are some that contest his achievement.

The Pacific Crest Trailside Readers contain several highly detailed woodcut illustrations by Amy Uyeki. Here, the PCT approaches the Northwest's jagged Cascade Mountains. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Backcountry « 39

Snapshot » Buff Black

If gray, rainy days are the investment, then streaming waterfalls are the abundant dividends. Waterfalls so define our Northwest landscape that our central mountains are named for them— the Cascades. Yet capturing evocative portraits of water in freefall is more than a snapshot; it’s a calculated and creative process that combines the technical with the artistic.

But before you reach for your camera, be mindful that circling waterfalls can be a wet, slippery and exposed endeavor. Wear water-repellent gear (check out some of the options in this issue’s Gear Closet) and waterproof footwear with good tread. The only thing that should fall is the water.

Well clad and well shod, explore different angles around the falls: from above or below, from the banks and from downstream, or even midstream (remember, good footwear). Once you’ve selected a scene, set up your tripod. This three-legged companion is a mission-critical accessory for capturing airbrushed waterfalls, because it holds the camera still for long exposures. Vantage stable, it’s now time to liberate your camera and dial in the settings.

1. Go low on ISO. Set your ISO speed at 100 or less. This makes the sensor (the digital “film”) less sensitive to light so that you can keep the shutter open longer. In brighter scenes, you can attach a neutral density or polarizing filter to sufficiently dim the incoming light.

2. Quiet your camera. You want the falls blurred, not your whole picture. To prevent camera Buff captured this shake, use a wired or wireless remote shutter release. For the quietest of cameras, use your camera’s photo of Upper mirror lockup in combination with its self-timer; this allows the clunking vibration of the mirror Whatcom Falls movement to dissipate by the time the shutter releases. after January’s big snow event. The 3. Expose exceptionally. The waterfall itself is typically the brightest portion of the composition, high water runoff and it is relatively easy to overexpose it, resulting in a featureless, white streak. To capture all the created a rare twin- interesting detail of the blurred falls, set your camera’s highlight alert so you can tell when your falls panorama. exposure is going downriver with the water. These are the uppermost falls

4. Take lots of shots. Once you’ve got it all dialed in, don’t skimp on the captures. Experiment at Bellingham’s with varying shutter speeds. An exposure needs at least 1/8 of a second to reveal a waterfall’s silky Whatcom Falls veil. Longer exposures—1/2 second, 1 second, even 4 to 8 seconds—can deliver a plush velvet. Park, where Whatcom Creek As compelling as the photographic process is, be sure to step out from behind the lens now and plunges from Lake then to experience the scene in all its natural splendor: listen to the thundering downrush, feel the Whatcom toward mist, and see the cascade in a way that only the nondigital eye can.t Bellingham Bay. Buff Black has been chasing the light with a camera for a quarter century. At home in Bellingham, This photo was shot his local and regional artwork is featured by eclectic cafes, businesses, nonprofits, campaigns and the at 22mm, ISO 50, City of Bellingham. Visit his expanding online gallery at www.buffblack.com. f/22, at 1.3 seconds. 40 » Backcountry March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

Trail Eats » Sarah Kirkconnell Don’t cook in the rain—eat gourmet with these no-cook trail meals

Spinach Artichoke Wrap per wrap: Notes: u 1 burrito-size flour tortilla Look for gourmet tortillas in fun u 1 Tbsp. ranch dressing flavors like sun-dried tomato or jalapeño. u 2 slices cheese Water-packed artichokes can be u 3 slices deli meat found at Trader Joe’s. u 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, drained Try a variety of cheeses like Swiss, u 1/4 cup baby spinach leaves Havarti, Muenster or pepper-jack. Directions: 1. Lay out tortilla and brush on the dressing. Lay down the cheese and deli meat. 2. Take two artichoke hearts from the can and squeeze gently to remove all water; chop up and sprinkle on top. Lay the spinach on top, and roll up tightly. 3. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill. Carry to the trailhead in a cooler.

FOR THE SALAD: FOR THE DRESSING: Pistachio Couscous Salad u 1 1/2 cups couscous u 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar u 1 Tbsp. dried onion u 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil u 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth u 1 Tbsp. honey or agave nectar u 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained u 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper u 1/4 cup diced pistachios u 1/4 tsp. dried basil

Directions: 1. Bring the broth and onion to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the couscous. Take off the heat, cover tightly and let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff up the couscous with a fork into a large bowl; toss with rinsed chickpeas. 2. Whisk the dressing ingredients in a small bowl. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat. Let chill overnight. 3. Before heading out, stir in the pistachios and then pack into lightweight sandwich containers (such as Glad or Ziploc) with tight-fitting lids. Makes 2-3 large portions.

ingredients: Chewy Granola Bars u 1 1/2 cups Rice Krispies cereal ¢ 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed u 1 1/2 cups quick-cooking oats ¢ 1/2 cup pure maple syrup* u 1/4 cup raisins* ¢ 1/2 cup peanut butter* u 1/4 cup shredded coconut ¢ 1 tsp. vanilla extract u 1/3 cup chocolate chips, frozen

Directions: 1. Spray an 8x8-inch glass baking dish with cooking spray. Mix the first five ingredients in a large, heat-safe mixing bowl. 2. In a medium saucepan bring the sugar and syrup to a boil; take off heat and add peanut butter and vanilla; stir till smooth. 3. Quickly add the hot syrup to the dry ingredients, mixing while pouring in. Once thoroughly coated, dump mixture into the prepared pan. Pack down firmly. Sarah Kirkconnell is the author of Trail Cooking Made 4. Let sit until cool, then slice into bars with a thin knife. Wrap tightly for carrying. Simple. Find more trail-worthy recipes for your next adventure at www.trailcooking.com. * Substitute your favorite dried fruit or nut butter; use honey instead of syrup. March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Take a Hike!

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Safety Notice Neither Washington Trails magazine, the 7 Washington Trails 3 Association, nor their 4 personnel accept any 2 liability for accidents or injuries in connection with articles, trail or 9 road reports published 5 in Washington Trails magazine. The reports provide updated infor- mation of interest to the region’s trail users; readers are cautioned to supplement the reports with other sources of information when planning a trip. 6 Additionally, readers should be aware that reported conditions may change, that there may be errors in the re- ports, and that certain hazards are inherent in backcountry travel. Where the Water Falls » Are your trail legs twitching waiting for summer to come? While your favorite routes may still be under snow, try one of these lower-elevation trails, just right for early spring, when all that early snowmelt cre- ates some dazzling cascades and waterfalls. Don’t forget your rain gear!

1 Elk Creek Falls, Colville National Forest 6 Upper Siouxon Creek, Gifford Pinchot N.F. 2 Otter Falls, Snoqualmie Pass 7 Wallace Falls, Wallace Falls State Park 3 Ingalls Creek, Alpine Lakes Wilderness 8 Old Sauk River Trail, Mountain Loop Hwy. 4 Murhut Falls, Olympic National Forest 9 Ancient Lakes, Quincy Recreation Area 5 Snoquera Falls, Chinook Pass 4242 » » Take Take a aHike! Hike! March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

u Northeast Washington Location: Colville National Forest Total Mileage: 2.1 miles Elevation Gain: 300 feet Highest Elevation: 2,820 feet Map: USGS Topo: Metaline Falls Permit: None Directions: From Metaline Falls, drive east on SR-31 for 2 miles. Turn right on Sullivan Lake Road for 4 miles to the Mill Pond Historic Site. Post Hike: Check out the Mill Pond Historic Site. Here, early settlers dammed Sullivan Creek, creating a reservoir from which a 4-mile-long flume diverted water to a hydroelectric plant downstream. This plant provided the first power to Metaline Falls. A 0.7-mile interpretive trail showcases several historic structures, including the remains of the old flume.

Hike: Elk Creek Falls 1 Hike through cedar, hemlock and aspen forest on this family-friendly loop to a pretty cascade in Colville National Forest.

From the upper parking area at Mill Pond Historic Site, immediately cross Sullivan Lake Road and commence climbing through open forest. Serviceberry shrubs arc over the undergrowth; above sway paper birch and aspen. Come autumn this forest feels reminiscent of eastern hardwood forest, yellow and orange leaves accumulating in drifts on the trail.

The trail ducks into a draw lorded over by enormous western redcedar and western hemlock before angling up and out onto a shrubby bench. From here, peer down upon Mill Pond and Sullivan Lake, the latter of which is among the largest natural lakes in the Washington Selkirks and an excellent base for exploring the nearby Salmo-Priest Wilderness. (This area has been proposed as an addition to the Salmo-Priest Wilderness, the only designated wilderness in northeast Washington.)

From this vantage point, gradually descend to the highlight of the hike, Elk Creek Falls, which tumbles down and around massive, mossy boulders and cedar roots; a bridge crossing in front of the falls allows a face-to-falls view. To return, descend along gurgling Elk Creek through hemlock forest. Cross Sullivan Lake Road once more, and turn right at the trail junction for a short jaunt back to the trailhead. Hike and photo by Aaron Theisen—Spokane, WA March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Take a Hike! « 43

u Snoqualmie Pass Location: Middle Fork Snoqualmie Total Mileage: 10 miles Elevation Gain: 650 feet Highest Elevation: 1,750 feet Map: Green Trails 174: Mount Si Permit: NW Forest Pass Directions: Drive I-90 east to exit 34, turning left on 468th Street. Turn right onto FR 56 and continue 12.5 miles, then left onto Taylor River Road to trailhead parking. Post Hike: On your way home, drop into the town of Snoqualmie and take a short walking tour of the Northwest Railway Museum. Stomach rumbling? Hit up the North Bend Bar and Grill. Relax by one of the fireplaces and enjoy some good eats and a refreshing local brew. Try the Trail Burger: an angus patty topped with bacon, Swiss and sautéed mushrooms, then finished off with their house-made chipotlé bbq sauce. Mmm.

2 Hike: Otter Falls A wonderful easy walk through lush forest allows one to appreciate the best of the Middle Fork Snoqualmie watershed.

From the Dingford Creek trailhead, hike south, following the Taylor River Trail. Along the way, marvel at the surrounding trees, moss, lichen and a forest floor bristling with mushrooms. At 3 miles, pause at pretty Marten Creek. New bridge material strengthens the ancient-looking original structure. Continue on to the Big Creek bridge at about 4.5 miles. This trail was once slated for a road-building project up the Taylor River drainage, which thankfully never came to fruition.

Continue on another quarter mile to an unsigned trail on the left, where a boot path has been created by visitors of Otter Creek Falls. Typically there is a cairn to mark the trail, but test your tracking skills first and try to spot it yourself. Up, up, up through the woods and over tangles of roots—it is fairly steep—come to a lovely viewpoint of Otter Creek Falls spilling into Lipsy Lake. The water streams down a towering granite wall, looking like a thin white sheet of gauze with tendrils intermingled throughout.

Otter Falls makes a great turnaround spot for those happy with a 10-mile round-trip day; to add a little more to your day, continue another quarter mile past the side trail to Big Creek Falls.

Hike by Kim Brown—Seattle, WA • Photo by Lisa Green—Seattle, WA 4444 » » Take Take a aHike! Hike! March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

u East Cascades Location: Alpine Lakes Wilderness Total Mileage: 11 miles Elevation Gain: 1,450 feet Highest Elevation: 3,450 feet Map: Green Trails 210: Liberty Permit: NW Forest Pass Directions: From Yakima, drive 88 miles north on I-82 to Ellensburg, continuing onto US-97. Near milepost 178, turn left on Ingalls Creek Road; proceed 1.2 miles to road’s end and trailhead parking. Post Hike: Visit the Bavarian town of Leavenworth. Stroll amid quaint European- styled shops, and visit the Nutcracker Museum, with more than 6,000 modern and antique nutcrackers. Then stop in at Gustav’s Pub and dine on German sausage and wash it down with one of their signature Icicle Ales.

Hike: Ingalls Creek 3 This popular trail parallels a thunderous creek on a gentle grade, making for an excellent springtime river romp.

The Ingalls Creek Trail features a variety of scenery that includes big pines, boulder fields, granite cliffs, old growth and occasional views of the mighty Stuart Range. The primary attraction in the later spring is the proliferation of wildflowers, some of which are uncommon. Be prepared for the cool breezes that flow down the valley, and carry an extra layer.

The trail is an excellent day hike and a good place to spend the night, especially if you plan to hike the entire trail, which leads to Stuart Pass (16 miles one way) and beyond. There are many excellent sites for resting or camping beside the creek— but you’ll have to wait until the snow melts before attempting to reach higher elevations via this trail.

There is a gravel bar at Falls Creek and a log that tempts crossing. This can be extremely dangerous during high runoff in springtime, and should be forded only during the summer months. If you want to see more beyond Falls Creek, continue up the Ingalls Creek Trail 2 miles and 300 feet to Cascade Creek, snow permitting.

The Ingalls Creek Trail is best enjoyed by hiking slowly in both directions and looking along the trail carefully for small flowers and fungi—but do look up and around at times because you might see an elk in the spring.

Hike and photo by Dennis Graver—Camano Island, WA March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Take a Hike! « 45

u Olympic Peninsula Location: Olympic National Forest Total Mileage: 1.6 miles Elevation Gain: 300 feet Highest Elevation: 1,050 feet Map: Green Trails 168: The Brothers Permit: NW Forest Pass Directions: Drive Duckabush Road west from milepost 310 on US-101 6.3 miles to a fork. Veer right another 1.3 miles to trailhead parking. Post Hike: Satisfy that before- or after- hike hunger by stopping into the Logger’s Landing in Quilcene for hearty breakfasts and tasty burgers and fries. If you're looking for more in the area, check out the Olympic Game Farm. Get closeup views of grizzly bears, bison and elk from the comfort and ease of your own vehicle. Kids will love it!

4 Hike: Murhut Falls This short and easy trail in the Hood Canal Ranger District on the east side of the Olympics takes hikers to a relatively unknown waterfall.

If “no pain, no gain,” is your mantra, you might want to skip this trail. But if you like a short trail that delivers its reward— a captivating 130-foot plunging waterfall—in just under a mile, then this is the hike for you. What is more, you’ll hardly break a sweat in the easy climb of 250 feet elevation gain to reach the tiered falls. And amazingly, you’ll probably not have to put up with many other hikers along the way, as the trail is still relatively unknown.

The well-maintained Murhut Falls Trail begins with a gradual ascent, then flattens out before the final ascent to your 1,050-foot destination. This is Pacific rhododendron country, so if you hike it in late spring you’ll find yourself surrounded by pink bursts of bloom splashed against the surrounding green forest. You may or may not notice that the trail was converted from an old logging road, hence the easy, well-smoothed tread. The roar of the falls will be with you for the final stretch of trail as you descend into a hidden ravine that shelters the tiered falls. Exercise caution and hold small hands in the final stretch where the trail narrows and there is a dropoff to one side.

If you like a lot of bang for very little buck, this trail is definitely for you, and makes a wonderful family outing.

Hike by Lauren Braden—Seattle, WA • Photo by Kelsie Donleycott—Belfair, WA 4646 » » Take Take a aHike! Hike! March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

u Central Cascades Location: Chinook Pass 5 Hike: Snoquera Falls Total Mileage: 6 miles With a trailhead so easily accessible, there’s no excuse not to visit Elevation Gain: 2,800 feet Snoquera Falls. Best in early spring, this lush, forested trail features a

Highest Elevation: 5,000 feet pretty fantail cascade plunging down a sheer, rocky wall. Map: Green Trails 238: Greenwater From the roadside trailhead you immediately plunge into rainforest, Permit: NW Forest Pass more in tune with what you would expect to see in the Olympics. The first half mile is a casual stroll amid mossy and dripping cedar, western Directions: Drive east on SR-410 to the town hemlock, big leaf and vine maple, and a forest floor occasionally carpeted of Greenwater. Continue south another 7 with western Washington’s harbingers of spring: skunk cabbage and miles, past Dalles Campground, to trailhead trillium. At the first junction veer right, where the trail begins climbing in parking on the north side of the highway. earnest up the lower flank of Little Ranger Peak. Post Hike: For a sweet treat on the way A little over a mile in, the trail drops into a small basin where the home, stop into The Pie Goddess in streaming cascade of Snoquera Falls plunges down a rocky face. The Enumclaw. Featuring a variety of mouth- volume in the falls changes dramatically with the seasons. In springtime, watering fruit and cream pies, there's a flavor when heavy winter snows are melting rapidly, the falls can be roaring, for everyone. Bring cash. filling the basin with cold spray; in the later summer months the falls may reduce to but a trickle, eventually picking up again with autumn rains.

From the falls, continue north another 1.5 miles, descending a few switchbacks to the next junction. Turn left, now heading south lower down on the slope. You'll pass a camp location, the reconnect with the first junction in 1.3 miles. Turn right, back on familiar trail, and return to your starting point.

Unlike many waterfall hikes in western Washington where you may risk life and limb for a clear glimpse of plunging water by clinging to trees and skirting cliffs, views of Snoquera Falls are right in front of you. Witness the many moods of both water and forest by hiking to Snoquera Falls in spring, summer and fall.

Hike by Kim Brown—Seattle, WA • Photo by Paul Raymaker—Seattle, WA March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Take a Hike! « 47

u South Cascades 6 Hike: Upper Siouxon Creek Location: Gifford Pinchot National Forest Total Mileage: 8.4 miles This excellent early-season romp heads up a lush river canyon boasting three gorgeous waterfalls—with riverside campsites for an Elevation Gain: 700 feet overnight, or a longer, more challenging loop. Highest Elevation: 1,570 feet

From the trailhead at the end of FR-5701, descend to a T-junction and Map: Green Trails 396: Lookout Mountain turn right (east), heading upstream toward Siouxon Creek (turning left Permit: NW Forest Pass heads downstream and connects to longer Huffman and Siouxon Peak Directions: Drive I-205 north or south to Trails). The trail mostly stays above and alongside Siouxon Creek through exit 30. Turn east onto SR-500, turning into shady Douglas-fir and red cedar forest. Along the way, spot primitive backcountry campsites, most with fire rings and log benches. SR-503, for 26 miles. Turn right on NE Healy Road, continuing 9 miles to a fork. Veer left Just under a mile along, look for the Horseshoe Ridge trail, breaking off on FR-57 for 1.2 miles, then left again on FR- to the right. This 6.9-mile spur climbs to the 3,200-foot viewless crest of 5701 4 miles to the trailhead. Horseshoe Ridge before descending to meet up with the Siouxon Creek Post Hike: If you’re heading back to trail farther up. After another half mile, the trail turns slightly south Portland, stop in for a burger and milkshake of Siouxon Creek to cross Horseshoe Creek Falls on a sturdy wooden bridge; 60 yards past the falls, look for a spur that descends to a couple at Jim Dandy’s, off I-205 at Sandy. Serving of secluded campsites below the falls. A quarter mile farther brings you since 1937, Jim Dandy’s is one of Oregon’s alongside Siouxon Creek Falls, a 40-foot plunge down a narrow S-shaped oldest—and best—drive-ins. cleft. Two campsites and a small, primitive shelter can be found opposite the falls; a short side trail above the falls allows for water access.

Continue up the canyon for 2 more miles to a wide stream cascading across the trail. Use caution on the slick rocks during the early season high runoff. Just beyond the crossing, fork left over another wooden bridge, this time over a deep gorge cut through the rock. Now along Chinook Creek, pass a couple more campsites, and arrive at 50-foot Chinook Creek Falls. A ford is required to connect to the other side of the trail to continue on to Huffman and Siouxon Peaks, so this makes an ideal lunch and turnaround spot below the misty falls.

Hike and photo by Eli Boschetto—Portland, OR 48 » Take a Hike! March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

7 Hike: Wallace Falls Wallace Falls State Park may draw the crowds, but for good reason. The thundering Middle Falls is a springtime spectacle.

From the trailhead, begin hiking under power lines with decent views of Mount Index and Baring Mountain. After a quarter mile, enter hemlock forest, where the sound of buzzing wires is replaced by the rushing waters of the Wallace River. Veer right onto the Woody Trail, keeping alongside the river as you continue to head up the valley. Pass the upper junction with the Railroad Grade Trail, then cross a sturdy bridge over the North Fork Wallace River. Continue eastward another 0.8 mile to the viewpoint of 265-foot Middle Falls; Upper Falls is another half-mile farther. For your return, turn your route into a loop by detouring onto the Railroad Grade Trail for a little change of scenery.

Location: Wallace Falls State Park Total Mileage: 5.5 miles Elevation Gain: 1,200 feet Highest Elevation: 1,500 feet lindsay leffelman Map: Green Trails 142: Index Permit: Discover Pass

8 Hike: Old Sauk River Trail Maybe no waterfall, but this nearly flat riverside stroll, lets you peep for bald eagles along the Wild and Scenic Sauk River.

Starting at the Murphy Creek trailhead, work your way through maple and cottonwood forest northward to the river’s edge. Start searching for bald eagles in the trees, as more than 100 of them commonly make the area their winter and spring home. The trail bends northwestward, following the river as it makes its way toward the Skagit. Visit later in the season for an explosion of wildflowers. Cross a small tributary bridge at 1.25 miles, then divert around a washout area at 2 miles. At nearly 3 miles, you turn away from the river again, now in mature Douglas-fir forest, back to the highway. This makes a good point to do an about-face and enjoy the view doubling back to where you started.

Location: Mountain Loop Highway Total Mileage: 6 Miles Elevation Gain: 150 feet Highest Elevation: 800 feet LIZ FALLIN Map: Green Trails 110: Silverton Permit: NW Forest Pass

9 Hike: Ancient Lakes Beautiful year-round, the Ancient Lakes on the floor of Potholes Coulee make a fantastic early-season hiking destination.

The Ancient Lakes are water-filled depressions scoured away during the various Bretz, or Missoula, floods from thousands of years ago. Today, the waterfalls that tumble down from the top of the coulee wall are year-round, but nicer for viewing in late spring and early summer. Desert flowers and sagebrush abound here, and the lakes are home to many species of birds. The trail to the end of the coulee is short and easy. While it’s not necessary to do anything but sit on the grassy slope and gaze at the waterfall, it is possible to scramble around the lake on the boulder field and clamber to the top of the coulee wall—a great place to watch the lovely cloudscapes during unsettled weather.

Location: Quincy Recreation Area Total Mileage: 4 miles Elevation Gain: 10 feet Highest Elevation: 860 feet Shahid Durrani Map: USGS Quad: Babcock Ridge Permit: Discover Pass March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Take a Hike! « 49

WTA’S Trail Work Parties Featured Trail Project » in March and April Date Location Larrabee State Park Mar 1–4 Evans Creek Preserve Washington’s first state park, Larrabee, is the only place where the Mar 1 Notch Pass Cascades reach the ocean, where big trees contrast with towering Mar 2 Leadbetter State Park sandstone cliffs and beautiful beaches—and some super-sweet hiking Mar 4 Dosewallips Bypass trails, thanks in part to WTA volunteers. Mar 6 - 11 Evans Creek Preserve Established in 1915, Larrabee’s 2,683 acres contains more than 8,100 Mar 10, 11 Larrabee State Park feet of shoreline along Samish Bay. Contained within are 80 campsites Mar 10, 11 Leadbetter State Park and more than 15 miles of hiking trails, from sea level to 1,940 feet. And Mar 11 Dosewallips State Park all in close proximity to Bellingham and the Chuckanuts. Mar 13–18 Evans Creek Preserve One weekend last summer, a WTA work party listened to one of Mar 15 Cape Horn Larrabee’s dedicated and passionate rangers, Amber Forest, talking Mar 17 Cape Horn about the park she lived, loved and worked in. It made me think of Mar 17 Mount Walker all the trails and time WTA has spent working—and hiking—in this Mar 17, 18 Deception Pass State Park diverse and extremely special place. Mar 20–24 Cougar Mountain As northwest district crew leader, I’ve had the pleasure of working Mar 22 Cape Horn with WTA volunteers in Larrabee for the past four years, identifying Mar 24 Evans Creek Preserve–Youth and fixing chronic problem areas, replacing bridges, brushing Mar 24, 25 Soda Peaks Lake and improving drainage. They’ve helped improve drainage along Mar 25 Tiger Mountain the Clayton Beach Trail, allowing hikers to access interesting rock Mar 27–31 Grand Ridge formations and quiet beaches without slogging through muddy trails. Mar 29 Cape Horn They’ve brushed and widened and installed a reroute on the Two- Mar 31 Liberty Lake Dollar Trail, a sweet little 1.5-mile connector from Cleator Road to the Apr 1 Tiger Mountain northwest shore of Fragrance Lake. And let’s not forget about the new Apr 2 Liberty Lake turnpikes on the Fragrance Lake Loop, with the excitement of buckets of soil and rock screaming down 110 feet of zipline to fill over 200 feet Apr 3–7 Grand Ridge of raised walkway through a formerly messy area. Apr 5 Cape Horn Apr 7 Cape Horn Our state parks are an important resource and offer a wonderful Apr 7, 8 Larrabee State Park opportunity to get out on trail any time of the year. Come on out and Apr 8 Tiger Mountain take a hike or join one of our weekend work parties, and help support Washington’s state parks.t Apr 9–14 Spring Lake/Lake Desire (SB) – Arlen Bogaards Apr 10–14 O’Grady Apr 12 Cape Horn Hikers on the North Lost Coast Trail in Apr 15 Tiger Mountain Larrabee State Park. Photo by Jessica Bush. Apr 16–21 Cougar Mountain (SB) Apr 17–22 O’Grady Apr 21 Liberty Lake Apr 22 Dishman Hills Apr 22 Tiger Mountain Apr 24–27 Wallace Falls State Park Apr 27–29 Middle Fork Snoqualmie Apr 28, 29 Catherine Creek/Coyote Wall Apr 28, 29 Larrabee State Park

To sign up for one of WTA’s day trip work parties, head over to www.wta.org 50 » Wild Side March + April 2012 » Washington Trails A Walk on the Wild Side » “Here it is!”

I was two campsites and umpteen trees away but, at last, Months later my husband and I were on the top of a cold windy relieved. We’d been scouring every shrub, trail and hillside for peak in the North Cascades. Gloves adorned my fingers, but his had nearly an hour, hunting for my camera’s misplaced lens cap. been misplaced when we’d stopped for lunch on a backpacking When the mountain goat family showed up a few feet from our trip weeks earlier. We had just been discussing the nip in the air backcountry camp, the mad-scrambled excitement caused me to when we eyeballed black fabric smiling at us between boulders. lose track of the protector, and recovering it was nothing short of a The mountain had given back a pair of windproof gloves, in just his miracle. Seeing Sasquatch in the backcountry was more probable right size. It was an “aha” moment, and the words of the mountain than finding a small round camouflaged disk wedged in subalpine man became crystal clear. heather. But there it was, and I danced a giddy jig in celebration. Odds are, if you’ve ever spent any time roaming the backcountry It wasn’t my first rodeo with the unofficial Backcountry Lost and hills, you’ve experienced the mountain taking or giving up various Found. One summer, after a challenging climb to the false summit items. Recently a wedding ring missing for nearly four months of Mount Adams, my father fished around in his pack for his brand- was found and returned to its rightful owner. As luck would have new red fleece. It had arrived as a birthday gift a few months earlier, it, a twelve-year old boy had spotted the shiny band near a bench and he was excited to give it its maiden mountain voyage and test on the Wallace Falls Trail as he waited for his parents who were its ability to fend off the high alpine chill. The more he searched, the steps behind. Returning home, a web search led the boy’s family deeper the furrow on his brow became. Nothing. The fleece was to discover that the owner had posted about the missing band on missing in action despite his insistence he had it when we started. a Trip Report on WTA’s web site. WTA was able to put the family in On the way down, we asked everyone we met about the red fleece. contact with the ring’s owner, and on Christmas Eve it was returned. Their predictable response: “sorry.” The mountain had given back.

A weathered old mountain man worked his way up the peak To this day, when I stumble across unusual objects on and received no exemption to the trails or discover items missing from my pack, question. He gave the familiar I can’t help but think of the words of the head shake, then thought mountain man and feel enlightened. a minute and uttered The Backcountry Lost and Found’s profoundly, “The mountain complexity can be summarized in those taketh, and the mountain simple words, “the mountain taketh, giveth back.” and the mountain giveth back.”t – Tami Asars

Illustration by Kara Chin March + April 2012 » Washington Trails Back Page « 51 Featured Landscape » Cougar Mountain

HIKE IT>> Out with the cold, in with the new Wilderness Peak Trail The Wilderness Peak Trail can be torturous, rising 485 feet in the first half-mile from the Location: SR-900 trailhead. In this short stretch of trail, it is the sound of Wilderness Creek that stands Cougar Mountain out, especially in the spring. As the trail twists and turns upwards, the sound of falling water Regional Wildland Park replaces the noise of the busy highway below. Distance: On every hike I take a camera, sometimes two or three, depending on what I think I might 4 miles round trip see. I also take a small tripod just to take advantage of falling water along the way. I love waterfalls. They don’t have to be hundreds of feet tall to attract me. They can be measured in Elevation Gain: a handful of inches and I would still pause to take a look. 1,200 feet As I came to this small cascade at the end of a switchback, it was more than just plunging Map: water. I noticed a single pink salmonberry blossom, dancing gently in the light breeze created Green Trails 403S: Cougar by the nearby cataract. It added a perfect 'splash' of spring color to the falling water beyond. & Squak Mountains It was a tricky shot since the blossom was moving slightly, as I wanted to use a very slow Permit: shutter speed to capture the flowing form of the water behind. It took a lot of patience and none a great number of exposures to get the flower and water in sync, with the leaf and blossom in sharp focus. The final image has become a favorite of mine, speaking volumes about the beauty of spring in the Northwest.t – Story and photograph by Robb Mitchell March + April 2012 » Washington Trails

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