©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Italian Lakes

Lake Maggiore & Around p72 Lake & Around p100

Bergamo, Brescia & Cremona p132 p42 ^# & Around p159

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Paula Hardy Anthony Ham PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the Italian MILAN ...... 42 Stresa & Around...... 76 Lakes ...... 4 Sights...... 45 Arona...... 79 The Italian Lakes Map. . . .6 Activities...... 58 . . . . . 79 The Italian Lakes’ Courses...... 58 Verbania...... 81 Top 14...... 8 Tours...... 58 Ghiffa...... 82 Need to Know...... 16 Festivals & Events . . . . . 59 Cannobio...... 82 First Time ...... 18 Eating...... 59 East Bank...... 85 What’s New...... 20 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 61 Entertainment ...... 63 Vira...... 85 If You Like ...... 21 Shopping...... 65 ...... 85 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Pavia...... 68 Laveno...... 85 Itineraries ...... 25 Monza...... 70 Casalzuigno...... 86 Eat & Drink Like a Local. 29 Santa Caterina del Sasso. . . 86 Ranco...... 86 Outdoor Activities. . . . 34 LAKE MAGGIORE & AROUND ...... 72 ...... 87 Travel with Children. . . . .37 Lake Maggiore West ...... 87 Regions at a Glance. . . . 39 Bank...... 73 Around Varese...... 89 Santa Maria del Monte. . . . 89

MING TANG-EVANS/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES TANG-EVANS/GETTY MING © IMAGES FAINT/GETTY GRANT ...... 90 Castelseprio & Torba. . . . .90 Lake Orta...... 90 Orta San Giulio...... 91 Lake Orta West Bank. . . . . 93 (). . . 94 Ascona...... 97 ’s Western Valleys ...... 98

MUSHROOM RISOTTO P233 P100 Centovalli...... 98 Valle Maggia...... 99 Val Verdasca...... 99 DE AGOSTINI/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES AGOSTINI/GETTY DE © IMAGES STRAUSS/GETTY ANDREAS LAKE COMO & AROUND ...... 100 Como ...... 104 Triangolo Lariano. . . . 109 Torno ...... 109 Careno...... 110 Bellagio ...... 110 Abbazia di San Pietro al Monte...... 112

LAKE GARDA P159 BELLAGIO, LAKE COMO Lake Como West Bank. . .113 P110 Cernobbio...... 113 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Monte Bisbino...... 114 Franciacorta ...... 148 The Italian Lakes Moltrasio & Laglio. . . . . 114 Brescia...... 148 Today ...... 208 Argegno & Pigra...... 115 Cremona ...... 152 History...... 210 Sala & Isola Comacina . . . 115 Around Cremona . . . . 155 The Arts...... 220 Sacro Monte di . Pizzighettone...... 156 Villas & Gardens. . . . . 228 Ossuccio ...... 115 Lodi...... 156 The Lakes Kitchen. . . . 233 Lenno...... 117. Crema...... 157 Tremezzo...... 117. Soncino...... 157 Fashion & Design. . . . 239 Rezzonico ...... 118 Gravedona & Around. . . . 118 LAKE GARDA & SURVIVAL Lake Como East Bank. . .119 AROUND ...... 159 Valtellina ...... 119 GUIDE Lake Garda ...... 161 Abbazia di Piona . . . . . 120 Verona ...... 179 Corenno Plinio ...... 120 Around Verona . . . . . 185 Directory A–Z...... 244 Bellano...... 120 Valpolicella ...... 185 Transport...... 251 Varenna...... 121 Soave...... 187 Language...... 257 Vezio...... 122 Mantua...... 187 Lake ...... 122 Index ...... 265 Lugano (Switzerland). . . 123 Map Legend ...... 271 ACCOMMODATION. 194 Around . . . . 127 Bellinzona (Switzerland). . . 129 Milan...... 195 Lake Maggiore & Around...... 196 BERGAMO, BRESCIA Lake Como & Around. . . 199 & CREMONA. . . . . 132 Bergamo, Brescia & Bergamo...... 136 Cremona ...... 201 Bergamo’s Valleys . . . . .141 Lake Garda & Around . . 203 Bergamo Hills to . Taleggio...... 141 San Pellegrino Terme . . . 142 Cornello dei Tasso. . . . . 144 Northern Valle . Brembana...... 144 SPECIAL FEATURES Valle Seriana...... 144

34 35  Lake Como Hit Gravedona for water sports, Apart from being a classic Giro d’Italia Lake Iseo & Around. . . 144 the western mountains for scenic drives, and stage, the chapel is an extraordinary the rugged Triangolo Lariano for scenic hikes shrine to cycling. Eat & Drink Like a between Como, Bellagio and Lecco. If you’re bringing your own bike, check  Lake Garda A veritable outdoor playground with your airline if there’s a fee and how with world-class windsurfing and sailing at Riva much, if any, disassembling is required. PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN del Garda, Torbole and Gargnano; championship Bikes can be transported by train in , Plan Your Trip rock climbing in Arco; paragliding, biking, hiking either with you or to arrive within a couple and skiing on Monte Baldo; horse riding on the of days. Bike hire or city cycle schemes are Monte Isola...... 145 Local ...... 29 Tremonsine plateau and through Bardolino available in most towns and resorts. vineyards; and cycling through the olive groves Outdoor of the Valtenesi. Top Trails  Lake Iseo Bordering the region of  Dorsale Ideal for a day’s mountain-bike ACTIVITIES OUTDOOR Franciacorta, Lake Iseo is a perfect spot for easy exploration. Activities cycling, either around Monte Isola or through  Rent a mountain bike for Northern Italy’s stunning Alpine landscape off ers outdoor Franciacorta’s vineyards. Monte Mottarone the 20km to 30km descent to Stresa. enthusiasts a plethora of activities, some of which off er the best  Lake Ledro Off the mainstream tourist radar,  Feel like a champion Iseo...... 146 opportunities for escaping the crowds. Blessed with rolling hills, pretty Lake Ledro offers scenic hiking and Madonna del Ghisallo on this classic climb from Bellagio. riverine deltas, glacial lakes and soaring mountains, you can take adrenaline-inducing canyoning. Outdoor Activities. . . . 34  Monte Isola Cycle round Lake Iseo’s island. your pick of hiking, biking, climbing, skiing, horse riding, sailing and  Lake Maggiore Ascend Monte Mottarone sur ng, or you can simply sit back and enjoy the view. for family-friendly biking, hiking and skiing, or  Rocca di Garda An 11km trail from Garda to escape northwest from Locarno to explore the Costermano and Albarè. Ticino valleys on foot.  The Valtenesi A 38km circular route takes  Mantua Family-friendly walking, cycling and you from the Castle of Padenghe through the Best Outdoors river cruising around Mantua’s three lakes and nature reserve of the Rocca di Manerba and the Sarnico...... 146 Best Short Walks When to Go beside the Mincio and rivers. olive groves of Puegnago del Garda. Up the wooded Valle delle Cartiere, around Lake Spring and autumn, with their abundance  Parco Nazionale Val Grande Get back to Ledro, between Valle Maggia villages and down of wildflowers and forest fruits, are the nature in one of Italy’s wildest parks with guided Villas & Gardens . . . . 228 from the funicular stations of Monte Brè or Monte prettiest times to be outdoors. Autumn, walks amid majestic chestnut forests and San Salvatore and Cimetta. when the harvests start in the vineyards marble quarries. Horse Riding and olive groves, has a mellow appeal. Riding is big region-wide, with plenty of Best Easy Bike Rides agriturismi (farmstay accommodation) Around the vineyards of Franciacorta and the Best Times having horses for guests to ride. Several Lovere & Bossico. . . . . 146 Valtenesi, as well as around Lake Orta and beside  Pleasantly warm days and valleys farms such as La Basia (p 167 ), Agriturismo April–June Cycling the lakes in Lugano, Verbania Pallanza and drenched in poppies and wildflowers – perfect Scuderia Castello (p170 ) and Ranch Barlot Mantua. Northern Italians are cycling fanatics. On for cyclists, walkers and climbers. weekends you can see whole gangs of cy- (p 177) around Lake Garda specialise in  equestrian holidays and offer treks of one Best for Water Sports July Water-sports enthusiasts flock to Lake clists scooting up hill and down dale with Garda. Hiking in the higher mountains is best frightening alacrity. or several days. Combining the intimacy Make the best of the Pelèr and Ora winds to Fashion & Design. . . . 239 this month. of agriturismi and meals around a shared More relaxed cycling is possible on the windsurf, kitesurf and sail on Lake Garda. table with the formality of a riding school,  September–October Still warm enough for Lombard plains, in Mantua, along the Mincio river and through the Franciacorta these equestrian farms are the most Best Spa Towns water sports, but cooler days mean mellow hikes atmospheric way of experiencing the lakes Valle Camonica...... 147 and Valtenesi wine territory. Tourist of- and cycle rides through vineyards and mountain The Roman’s favourite was lakeside Sirmione, but on horseback. forests. fices in Como, Lecco and Varese can supply Bardolino’s state-of-the-art Aqualux Hotel Spa is maps with suggested cycle routes between  The best ski months now equally as popular. December–February Lake Maggiore and the east bank of Lake for atmosphere (Christmas), snow and value. Como. Best Scenic Drives For more challenging trails head to Walking Through the Brasa Gorge and up the Val Canno- Monte Mottarone on Lake Maggiore At first glance one might think there is lit- bino; from Como to the peak of Cima Sighignola; and Monte Baldo on Lake Garda, where tle in the line of walking to be done around and from Cernobbio to Monte Bisbino. numerous off-road trails snake down the Lake Endine...... 147 Where to Go Italy’s northern lakes except for the occa- mountainsides. Most famous of all, though, sional shoreline promenade. Nothing could  Orobie Rising to the northeast of Lake is the challenging climb from Bellagio to be further from the truth. Como with valleys funnelling down to Bergamo, the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo. the Orobie Alps peak at 3000m and are covered Valle del Fredo & . in forests and pastures. Esmate...... 147 On the Road

Lake Maggiore & Around p72 Lake Como &Around p100

Bergamo, Brescia &Cremona Milan p132 p42 Lake Garda ^# &Around p159

AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paula Hardy Coordinating Author, Milan, Lake Garda & Around Paula has been contribut- ing to Lonely Planet’s Italian guides for over a decade. She has worked on six editions of the Italy guide, wrote the first editions ofPocket Milan and Puglia & Basilicata, and has written several editions of Sicily and Sardinia. Slowly working her way up Lo Stivalo (The Boot), Paula’s first experience of Milan and the lakes was Furniture Fair madness and a suitcase full of impractical shoes. These days she knows better and focuses on the dynamic modern-art scene, ferreting out those hard-to-find heritage designers, and Heidi-like mountain walking. An erstwhile editor and producer, she also contributes to and edits a variety of websites and travel publications. You can find her tweeting @ paula6hardy. Paula also wrote the Planning section, Accommodation chapter and the Understand features.

Anthony Ham Lake Maggiore & Around; Lake Como & Around; and Bergamo, Brescia & Cremona Anthony has been writing for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, particularly covering regions in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. His love for Italy began as a teenager when his family travelled through Switzerland and the lakes of northern Italy. He has returned many times since, each time deepening his love for, and connection with, one of Europe’s most beautiful corners. When he’s not travelling for Lonely Planet, he lives in Melbourne and writes and photographs for maga- zines and newspapers around the world. Anthony also wrote the Accommodation chapter and the Survival Guide. Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet com/members/anthonyham.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 2nd edition – Jan 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 849 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use . 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved ..No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher ..Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries ..Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels ..Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet .com/ip . 25

Itineraries

SWITZERLAND

•# Locarno É

É •# Cannobio

Bellagio •#

É Stresa

•# É É

É •# É Lake •#

Orta Como É

É •# Bergamo

ITALY É

•# Milan

14 DAYS Milan, Lake Maggiore & Lake Como

Modernist Milan gets this whirlwind tour off to a spectacular start with big city treats like Leonardo da Vinci’s Il Cenacolo, a tour of La Scala’s costume department and world- class art collections in the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Museo Poldi Pezzoli and Museo del Novecento. Give yourself at least three days to eat, drink, shop and sight-see, and pos- sibly take in a concert or opera. Then head for belle époque Stresa. Base yourself here or on Isola Superiore and ferry-hop to the extravagant Borromean palaces, the pleasure playground of Monte Mottarone and the voluptuous gardens of Villa Taranto. On day six, take a day trip to Lake Orta, before heading north by ferry or train to Locarno, where you should spend another few days soaking up this swanky Swiss town. Make your way back via quiet Cannobio. Then skip across the lake to Luino on the eastern shore and onto Como, via Varese. Amble the flower-laden lakeside to impressive Villa Olmo before taking a fast boat to Bellagio. Return to Milan, via Bergamo, and catch the extraordi- nary Carrara art collection amid some of the finest Lombard Renaissance architecture in the region. 26

Riva del

Garda •# É

Tremosine •#

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

É

Gargnano

•# ITALY É

Lake

I Garda IE ARIES TINER Salò •#

É Rocca di Manerba É ÷# •# Bardolino

Valtenesi •# É Valpolicella

•# Sirmione É •#

É

É Verona •#

16 DAYS Verona & Lake Garda

Combine culture and the great outdoors by flying into Verona, then striking out for the wine country and touring Garda’s activity laden shoreline. Spend three or four days in Verona, visiting its museums and frescoed churches, playing tag with Shakespeare’s star-crossed lovers, drinking coffee and spritz in its magnificent piazze and enjoying theatre and opera in its Roman Arena and hillside amphitheatre. Then pick up a car from the train station and head out for the nearby hills of Valpolicella. You could whiz around two or three wineries in a day, but instead take things slow and hunker down in Agriturismo San Mattia and get to know your Amarones from your Reciotos. Then push on through the hills of Bardolino at week’s end and treat yourself to a day at the plush Aqualux Hotal Spa or at night the romantic Locanda San Vigilio. Then, in the morn- ing, head to Riva del Garda for three days of nonstop activity. Plan ahead for sailing, windsurfing or climbing classes, or get down to the waterfront early to hire some gear. Spend at least half a day hiking the old Ponale Road and another half day cycling up the Sarco river to Drò. For families, a trip to the Varone waterfall will be a hit, or ferry-hop to Malcesine and take the funicular up Monte Baldo. Alternatively, its easy to while away the hours playing, swimming or cycling along the landscaped lakefront. On day 12 begin the drive south – a thrilling highlight in itself through mountain-blasted tunnels along a twisting road that overhangs the lake. Take the high road over the Tremosine plateau, before spending a night or two in idyllic Gargnano and heading on to patrician Salò. Base yourself here or just back from the lakeside in the vineyards of the Valtenesi and spend a further three days day-tripping to the extraordinary house-museum, Il Vittori- ale, the private island of Isola del Garda and cruising vineyards and olive groves for tast- ings. Make sure you spend a full day hiking in the natural reserve of Rocca di Manerba and take a late boat to Sirmione to watch the sunset from lakeside thermal pools once the crowds have dispersed. 27

Cascate •# •#Carona del Serio Branzi•# City Line-up Cornello dei É Tasso Bergamo’s Mountain Valleys •# É Val Taleggio •# •#

É É É Oltre San Pellegrino Terme •# il Colle TRIP YOUR PLAN

É ITALY Bergamo •#

É

Brescia

•# I Milan É ARIES TINER •#

É Verona •#

É É

•#Pavia É

•# •# Cremona Mantua

Bergamo’s 7 City Line-Up 4 DAYS DAYS Mountain Valleys

For an architectural and artistic tour of Join the proud and prosperous Bergamas- northern Italy’s glittering medieval and chi in Bergamo’s Città Alta (Upper Town) Renaissance heyday, look no further than for a sedate passeggiata around its elegant the elegant cities of the . Milan, Renaissance piazze, admiring its medieval with its huge crenellated castle and glit- towers and the magnificent Lombard tering Duomo, was the medieval muscle in Romanesque mausoleum of mercenary the west. Just check out the collection in commander Bartolomeo Colleoni. Take Castello Sforzesco and the rich legacy of in Renaissance masters at the Palazzo art in its four basilicas. But Milan didn’t Ragione, stroll the ramparts of La Rocca have the medieval monopoly on culture. and eat in as many of the town’s excellent A half-day trip to nearby Pavia will give restaurants as you can manage. Then head you time to enjoy Giangaleazzo’s enor- north through art nouveau San Pellegri- mous Certosa monastery, and you’ll need no Terme to the Val Taleggio, where you another day to browse the violin shops in can stock up on one of ’s signa- Cremona, where Stradivarius started a ture cheeses from local farmers and coop- musical tradition that resonates around eratives. Afterwards, return to the SS470 the world even today. Then head onto Ber- and head north through the medieval gamo for Lombardy’s finest Renaissance hamlet of Cornello dei Tasso to the Valle architecture and to Brescia and Verona Brembana in the foothills of the Orobie for Roman ruins and fine dining. Finally, Alps. Hikers will want to push deep into finish up in lake-bound Mantua, with the mountains for trails at Branzi and Mantegna’s frescoes, a Renaissance pleas- Carona, which lead to glassy glacial lakes. ure palace and some fine Renaissance- But for those touring the country by a car, style dining at Il Cigno. double-back south through Oltre il Colle into the Valle Seriana, for more fabulous forest vistas and Europe’s tallest waterfall, the Cascate del Serio. 28

SWITZERLAND É •# Bellinzona Locarno Valtellina É •# •#

É •# Valle É É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É Camonica

É Parco Nazionale •# Lugano •# Varenna delle Incisioni •# Montagnola •#

É •# Rupestri Bellagio

Morcote •# É É •# •#

Stresa Meride É

•# I IE ARIES TINER Como

Sarnico •#

Erbusco •# ITALY É •# Into Switzerland Franciacorta A Wine Meander Wine Region

6 5 DAYS Into Switzerland DAYS A Wine Meander

Start in Lugano, an elegant lakeside town Kick off this whirlwind wine tour with a on the Swiss side of the border that’s worth day in Como before taking the fast boat to a busy day of your time. Spend a morn- Albergo Silvio in Bellagio, where you’re ing in its old town and museums, and the booked for lunch on the terrace. Then hop afternoon whizzing up the funiculars of across to pretty Varenna and tour the Monte Brè and Monte San Salvatore. Also botanical gardens of the Villa Monastero use Lugano as a base for visiting lakeside before heading north up the east bank to towns, among them charming Morcote the wine valley of the Valtellina. Tour and museums devoted to Herman Hesse some of the sunny hillside wineries and in Montagnola and some extraordinary stock up on rare regional varietals such as fossils in Meride. Then head northwest the punchy Sforzato. On day three, emerge to Bellinzona and tour its three Unesco from the valley at Edolo and turn south- World Heritage Site–listed castles. As you wards down the Valle Camonica, lined head further west, detour into wonder- with Bronze Age rock carvings, which you fully quiet and pretty Val Verdasca and can tour in the 30-hectare Parco Nazion- Valle Maggia en route to Locarno with ale della Incisioni Rupestri near Capo its picturesque waterfront and engaging di Ponte. Then head for pretty Sarnico at old town. With just a day or two left, and the southern end of Lake Iseo and enjoy to make the most of your time, take the a laid-back day wandering its medieval Lake Maggiore Express that includes the lanes. You’ll then want another two days: gorgeous Centovalli train from Locarno to one to dine in style at Gualtiero Marchesi’s Domodossola and another train down to extraordinary restaurant at the five-star, Stresa. Then return to Locarno aboard a rust-red hotel L’Albereta in Erbusco and ferry that traces the lake shore back with another to cycle off the indulgence with a the best of Maggiore lake views along the tailor-made tour of in the vineyards of the way. Franciacorta wine region. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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