Ilissos river

Ilissos river was considered in antiquity as the Plato, Phaedrus second main river of , forming an [229a] Socrates: Let us turn aside here horizontal landmark in its southern and and go along the Ilissus; then we can sit eastern sides. Ancient writers mention various down quietly wherever we please. activities by its banks, varying from civic Phaedrus: I am fortunate, it seems, in processes, cults—including a sanctuary being barefoot; you are so always. It is dedicated to the river himself, by Ardittos hill- easiest then for us to go along the brook with our feet in the water, and it is not or social walks and philosophical endeavours in unpleasant, especially at this time of the idyllic landscapes, as for Socrates and his year and the day. disciples (Plato, Phaedrus 229a-229d). Socrates: Lead on then, and look out for a good place where we may sit. While the social life around the river flourished, a number of edifices where Phaedrus: Do you see that very tall plane tree? constructed along its banks dating from antiquity to 19th century, contributing to the Socrates: What of it? accessibility between them and the efficient [229b] Phaedrus: There is shade there management of the river water (springs, and a moderate breeze and grass to sit bridges, water works). on, or, if we like, to lie down on.

Socrates: Lead the way. Ilissos has undergone several re-arrangements on its route, commencing from antiquity and Phaedrus: Tell me, Socrates, is it not culminating in the 20th century AD, when the from some place along here by the Ilissus that Boreas is said to have carried river was finally channelled underground. off Oreithyia? Nowadays, it flows underneath the city of Athens, forming one of its invisible Socrates: Yes, that is the story. characteristics. A number of stakeholders are Phaedrus: Well, is it from here? The currently working on raising awareness on the streamlet looks very pretty and pure and ‘lost river’, proposing potential solutions for its clear and fit for girls to play by. sustainable re-introduction in the Athenian [229c] Socrates: No, the place is about landscape. two or three furlongs farther down, where you cross over to the precinct of Agra; and there is an altar of Boreas The region of is a mountainous area, somewhere thereabouts. alternating with valleys formed between its peaks. Athens itself is surrounded by several Phaedrus: I have never noticed it. But, for Heaven's sake, Socrates, tell me; do mountains, while the southwest part of the city you believe this tale is true? is open to the sea. Socrates: If I disbelieved, as the wise men do, I should not be extraordinary; The two main rivers of the otherwise ‘dry and then I might give a rational explanation, thin-earthed’ Athens (Thucydides I.2.5) are that a blast of Boreas, the north wind, Kifissos and Ilissos. Both were streams during pushed her off the neighboring rocks as she was playing with Pharmacea, and the dry seasons but in periods of intense [229d] that when she had died in this rainfall they turned into torrents, overflowing manner she was said to have been their banks and causing floods reported since carried off by Boreas. antiquity (Plato, 111a, link), especially Plato, Phaedrus, 229a-229d, Plato in nearby their estuary at the sea. Twelve Volumes, Vol. 9 translated by Harold N. Fowler. Cambridge, MA, Harvard University Press; London, William Heinemann Ltd. 1925. (link)

Kifissos river springs from the Mount Parnitha and flows into the gulf of Faliro, across the western side of the city. Ilissos river, on the other hand, springs from the north-western slopes of Hymettus; collecting rainwater from smaller streams, it runs on the east and south part of the historical centre of Athens, joined by the third river of Athens, Eridanos, in its route towards Faliro gulf, a few kilometres eastern of Kifissos estuary (In antiquity Ilissos merged with Kifissos outside the city. In mid - 20th century AD it was diverted and now it flows on a different river bed, under P. Tsaldari Avenue at ). Nowadays, Kifissos, Ilissos and Eridanos are have been covered almost in their entire length.

View of Ilissos river and Acropolis, 1910

Considering the natural environment, an important part of the scarce green patches in modern Athens (e.g. Kaisariane monastery, Ardittos, National Garden, Olympieion park) are watered by Ilissos river, thus preserving a notable ecosystem in the urban environment, including different species of birds, trees, bushes and flowers.

In the area of Mets for example, by the St. Foteini church—one of the few open sites of Ilissos—experts have recorded willows (Vitex agnus-castus), oleanders (Nerium Oleander), plane trees (Platanus orientalis), while stroks building their nests could be spotted in historical copperplates. Also, in the gulf of Faliron— Ilissos’ estuary—, a delta is formed hosting more than one hundred species of aquatic birds, some rare in Attica or threatened, as charadriiformes, little ringed plovers, cormorants, alcyons, grey herons, great crested grebes, broad billed sandpipers and even brown necked gooses. In early 20th century 250 plant species have been recorded in the area, but today only a few survive, as some halophytes.

The route of the river and associated architecture

Emanating from the north-western slopes of Hymettus mountain and discharging in Faliro gulf after concurring to Kifissos, Ilissos river run outside the eastern and southern walls of the ancient city of Athens moving west, draining rainwater in its route by converging seasonal streams. One of its branches run through the contemporary Kaisariane monastery area (and gorge), while the northern one through the byzantine monastery of St. John the Theologian, at the south of Cholargos area. In that area several aqueducts were built parallel to the route of the river, most prominent of which was the Peisistrateian (540-530 BC) that carried water from Hymettus to the city centre.

Heading south, Ilissos’ bed proper flows under the contemporary avenues and the modern-day ‘Ilissia’ area. It passes by the (Vasilissis Sofias Avenue), at a place where a three-arched roman bridge used to stand. That was an offer by Herodes Atticus (2nd c. AD). Although in 1738 the travellers report that architectural members from the bridge were used to build the houses nearby, the bridge survived until 1778 and was rebuilt in 1870’s along with the Panathenaic stadium, that would host the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The bridge was demolished in the mid 20th century during the river encasement and the construction of the square in front of the stadium. The river then flows by the byzantine chapel of St. Foteini "of Ilissos", built on top of the ancient sanctuary of Hekate and by the sanctuary of Pan. At this site a shallow marshland called Vatrachonisi (= Frog Island) was located until the 19th century, opposite Ardittos hill, between two branches of the river (another patch of land between the split course of the river is spotted north-west of the Panathenaic stadium). In 1897 a great flood caused the submersion Vatrachonisi and diversion of the river to the south, into its medieval bank, in order to forestall future threats.

The area by St. Foteini, is one of the few sites where the river is still traceable today, forming an interesting but unattended park. In the 19th c. a bridge was built at this point, joining the two banks of the river, and it is still visible today, bearing the crest of King Otto, the first king of and the name of the Mayor of Athens Ι. Koniaris (1801-1872). In this area, a rock cluster formed a deep chasm of 4-5 meters, shaping small waterfalls. Kallirhoe spring, one of the most renowned waterworks in ancient Athens, was located in this area as well. In the last quarter of the 6th century B.C. its waters were channelled to the so- called Enneakrounos fountain (fountain with nine water-spouts), often mentioned and depicted in ancient Agia Foteini, Ilissos, 1960. Photo: Theodoros Politis times.

Ilissos waters are still used During the Greek Revolution of 1821, in a small house today to water the National within the Metohi* and near the church of the Holy Garden of Athens, at the Power, the famous pyrotechnic Mastropavlis was making north-east side of this area. ammunition for the Turks who were fortified in the Castle. However, only a small amount of this ammunition The river then moves to the reached the Turks, the amount which was fabricated in a south-eastern flank of the very slow pace during the day. The greatest amount was roman temple of Olympian made during the night in a hectic pace, and was received Zeus (a visitable and in the morning secretly by lady Manolaina Biniari, inside monumental archaeological her laundry coffin. She took the coffin to Ilissos river, at the Kalliroe source. From there, the gunpowder and the site), leaving behind the cartridges were transferred by trusted people to Menidi, ‘parilissian sancturies’ where the revolutionaries were gathered for the towards Faliron. rebellion of the 25th of April 1821.

After converging with * A Metohi is a a monastery dependency (off the monastery's area) with a small church, cell and auxiliary Eridanos, Ilissos could be rooms for the Metohari (monk or priest-monk) which afterwards traced under occupies it each time taking care of it, officiating it, Thisseos Avenue (Kallithea cultivating and maintaining it. area), where occasionally overflows after torrential rain, causing various problems. Its original course in antiquity turned north-west to join Kifissos, heading south towards the sea. In the beginnings of the 20th c. its route was diverted, routed again to the Faliro gulf, however a few kilometres eastern of Kifissos estuary.

Covering of the river

Ilissos’ gradual covering began in the late 19th c., starting from its southern branch in Mets area (‘Vatrachonisi’), after the devastating storm flood of 1897. This should not have been a completely random event. The banks of the river were systematically exploited by the Municipality of Athens from the 19th c. until 1920’s, as a source for sand and gravel, used to build the roads of the capital. This practice caused severe degradation in certain areas making them vulnerable to flooding and prone to retain stagnant waters; a situation exacerbated from the fact that Ilissos catered for sewage for a part of Athens, since early 20th century.

Thus, following the growth of the population in the capital and the urgent need for more space in the urban environment, the part of the river up to the Panathenaic stadium was buried between 1939-1948; a decision made by Metaxas, with the legendary expression: "Today we bury Ilissos".

Ilissos was further degraded and polluted by sewage and garbage, turning into a resource in desperate need of sanitization. This was made possible through the underground channeling of the river, completed in the 1960’s, coinciding with the massive introduction of cars in Athens. The “Anti-Flooding and Drainage Programme of Athens” project was funded by the Marshall Plan given to Greece after WWII. Unregulated expansion of builings near the river sources at Hymmetus completed the scenery and Ilissos gave its place to a cluttered built environment and avenues full of cars...

By the late 1960’s the river had been largely covered and its banks turned subterranean. A well known Chatzidakis’ song of 1955 asking ‘What’s the name of the river’ probably demonstrates that Athenians had already started forgetting Ilissos by that time (link)

Bridge on the Ilissos, 1864, Henri Beck

Nowadays, only parts of its original route remain uncovered, namely at Goudi park; at Kallirhoe spring (Mets area) and at P. Tsaldari Avenue (Kallithea area).

References of the river

Ilissos river has been a main point of reference in the life of the ancient city and various activities were organised by its banks, ranging from official civic and religious practices to customary walks, as recorded by Plato, who delivers an idyllic landscape with plane trees, crystal waters, grassy slopes under the constant sound of cicadas and the rustling of the air among the leaves (Plato, Pheadrus 229a-229d).

In the ancient times, Ilissos was considered to be a sacred river. It was believed that the Nine Muses used to live on its banks and there was a sanctuary named "the Altar of the Ilissiads".

Ilisos was also a semi-god, the son of and Demetra, and was worshiped in a sanctuary on the Ardittos Hill, next to the current Panathinaiko Olympic Stadium. This area was called Cynosarges in antiquity, and the spring of Kallirrhóē was located there. Among the many legends and stories that are supposed to have taken place by the banks of Ilissos, this is where King Kodros sacrificed himself to save Athens from the invading Dorians.

The river, son of Poseidon and Demetra, was worshipped in antiquity as god and hero, depicted in the typical form of rivers, i.e. as bull with human face or head or as a youth with horns on its head. Its banks were the site of many mythological events, a camp of the Amazons after their first victory against the Athenians, the site of Oreithyia’s kidnapping by Voreas or the site that Kodros, king of Athens, was murdered. Odos Kallirhoe, Ilissos river, 1963. Photo: Dimosthenis Boukis. Even though the poet Seneca (Phaedra, v. 13-16, link) writes about the gracious flow of the river that waters the dry land, later travellers (18th and 19th c.) have been a bit sceptic on the amplitude of the river, commenting on its limited flow (F. Pouqueville, R. Pococke, F.-R. de Chauteaubriand, H. Johnson) and its use to water fields of Turkish farmers. However a French Capuchin monk mentions metal chains at the banks of the river, implying that part of the river had to be navigable. What is more, occasional floods have been recorded causing damage to the surrounding houses and the bridges.

Fidia, Ilissos fluvial divinity from the West pediment of the (left) and Michelangelo’s preparatory sketch for Adam, Sistine Chapel (right)

The demigod Ilissos is possibly one of the figures represented by Fidia in the West pediment of the Parthenon (the sculpture is also alternatively identified with the fluvial god Kifissos). The sculpture has been compared to Michelangelo’s Adam in the Sistine Chapel and Salvador Dalí has portrayed the statue in one of his paintings.

Salvador Dalí, Rhinocerotic Figure of Ilissos of Phidias, 1954. Private Collection

Architectural heritage at the banks of the river

The temple of Olympian Zeus was a landmark in Ilissos’ route, the place that according to the myth Deucalion dedicated a temple to Zeus, in gratitude for his saving from the cataclysm. The temple measuring 110 x 44m began being built in the 6th c. BC and was concluded 700 years later in the Roman era. It sheltered the statues of Zeus and emperor Hadrian from gold and ivory. In the 17th c. the place formed a pilgrimage for the Arabs in the wider area of Athens.

Around the temple of Zeus and especially in its south-eastern part, between its temenos (perimetric wall) and the walls of the city (renovated by Valerianus in the 3rd c. AD – possibly on the same route with the wall of Themistocles in the 5th c. BC), a number of sanctuaries are located, collectively known as the ‘parilissian’ sanctuaries. The area was excavated by E. Penrose (1883-1886) and G. Welter (1922). The temple was excavated by the Archaeological Society at Athens (1886-1907) and in the 1960’s by J. Travlos.

This area, on the northern (right) bank of the river was a place of antique cult for multiple deities and mythical heroes of Athens (Zeus, Cronus, Rea, Gea, , Artemis, Pan, Nymphs). Among the most important sites was the temple of Apollo Delphinius (5th c. BC), protector of seafaring and the adjacent court ‘epi Delphinio’ that hosted trials considering justified murder or murder in defence; part of it was demolished in the 2nd c. AD, when the sanctuary of Zeus Panhellenios was built. Also in the area, a temenos of Olympian Gea existed, marking the crack that drained the water from the cataclysm saving Deucalion and his wife, along with a sanctuary of Cronus and Rea, the parents of Zeus (2nd c. AD) and a monumental altar to Apollo Pythios (522/1 BC), dedicated by Peisistratos the younger.

North of Olympieion, again by the right bank of the river, another cluster of sites is indicated by the ancient writers and excavations, including a sanctuary of Hercules (6th c. BC), a sanctuary of Pancrates (4th c. BC) and a sanctuary of Aphrodite ‘en kipois’ (in the gardens), referencing to the lush vegetation by the river. In the same area, a monumental arch, surviving intact today, was constructed in 131 AD honouring the benefactor of the city Hadrian that had offered important public infrastructure buildings to the city in the 2nd c. AD, as roads, sewers, bridges, a library and an aqueduct, marking also the extension of the city to the east (Pausanias I.20.7). The water of Ilissos was used in a bath contemporary to the arch (2nd c. AD) located in the vicinity.

Olympieion and Ilissos river, 1910

Important sites were located as well on the southern (left) side of Ilissos, extra muros. Among them the Kynosarges’ gymnasion in a scenic grove, a few kilometres southern from the gymnasium of Aristotles (Isocrates, Panathenaicus, 12,18), οne of the three gymnasiums in the city of Athens, destined for offsprings of mixed Athenian and non-Athenian parentage, mentioned by Socrates coming out of Diomeiai Pylai (gates); part of it was located near the church of St Panteleimon.

Nearby lies the temple of Artemis Agrotera (448 BC), also acknowledged as temple of Dimitra & Kore or the ‘Metroon en Agrais’, site of the preparatory activities for the Great Eleusinian Mysteries, using water from the river in a ceremonial cleansing. The temple of ionian rhythm was converted into a Christian church in the 5th c. and a cemetery was arranged around it. In Panathenaic Stadium and Ilissos river the 17th c. a dome was added to the church known as ‘Panaghia stin Petra’, that was dismembered— along with the roman bridge of the river, the Ηadrian aqueduct’s façade and St Francis monastery (by the Panathenaic stadium, bearing the crest of the Florentines merchants Acciaiuoli)—in order to form Haseki’s wall (1778). Today, with only sparse architectural remains surviving in situ, the temple is known through the copperplates and sketches of the 18th c. by J. Stuart & N. Revett, while several fragments from its frieze are exposed in the museums of Athens, Vienna and Berlin. The area of the temple was part of the early Christian settlement of Athens, hosting several basilicas along with Leonides’ basilica (2nd half of the 5th c.), the martyrdom of the bishop of Athens, parts of which still remain visible today.

Finally, as mentioned before, on the left bank of the river, further north, lies the Panathenaic stadium, rebuilt by Lycurgus (4th c. BC) and renovated by Herodes Atticus to have a capacity of 50.000 spectators (2nd c. AD). The stadium was re- marbled in 1895 on the event of the first contemporary Olympic Games in Athens.

The presence of the river in the public life of the Athenians that organised their lives around it, was kept active until the end of 19th century. Afterwards, the gradual burying of the river under modern streets with heavy traffic has altered the landscape and life in Athens.

Present Status

The natural water supply and runoff network of Athens has been exhausted and destroyed, a fact often considered as a ‘historical mistake’ that cannot be easily amended. The main rivers of Athens Kifissos, Ilissos and Eridanos have been channelled underground in a gradual process beginning in the late 19th c. and culminating in the middle 20th c., giving their place to the modern, expanded city of Athens, degrading however the public space of the city and causing low rate of rainwater absorption and increased risks of flooding in several areas. Considering Ilissos, nowadays, only a few parts of its course are open (Goudi park, Mets area and at P. Tsaldari Avenue - Kallithea area), though unattended and not intended for visitors, making the river neglected and invisible to the passer-by.

However, in the last few years, the river has been a motive to contemplate on a different future of the city, ecologically and socially sustainable. The urgent need for a viable city has provided the trigger to proposals for the qualitative and operational upgrade of the lost river, regaining parts in the contemporary metropolis, enhancing the historical, natural and cultural identity of Athens. However, most of these are works in progress and many just proposals.

Goudi ‘Metropolitan Park’ area. This is a large area of 4500 m2 at the borders of Athens, Papagou and municipalities, containing particles of high architectural and ecological values. The project to create a large ‘Metropolitan Park’ in the area of Goudi-Ilissos, managed by Laboratory of the Urban Environment of the National Polytechnic School, involves—among others—the cleaning and enhancement of the rivers’ banks and the protection and raising awareness on the physical environment in the area through green routes. The project aspiring to unify a wide area and provide 1450m2 of green space and 2400m2 for health, research, sports and education activities, stumbles upon loose political volition and ownership issues, involving in its vicinity: ex and current military camps, hospitals, ministries and a university campus.

Byzantine museum A few kilometres to the South lies the Byzantine and Christian museum of Athens, also known as Villa Ilissia (19th c.), once the winter quarters of the Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun, Duchess of Plaisance. The building was constructed between the right bank of Ilissos (nowadays covered) and the boulevard that linked Athens with Kifissia, lined with public buildings and private mansions, all designed by leading architects of the time. Currently, the Byzantine Museum transforms its surroundings in an open, public, ‘byzantine’ garden, hosting endemic flora, information points and a restored ottoman cistern, connected to the Peisistratian and the Hadrian’s aqueduct. One of its entrances, on Vasilissis Sofia Avenue, will connect with the archaeological site of Lyceum gymnasium, also to be opened in the following years.

Mets area The “Citizens of Mets Initiative” is an active movement acting for the protection of the remnants of Artemis Agrotera temple, defending the public character of the monument and its potential as an open-visitable site. Among its activities in 2010 were consequent cleaning operations at the open site of Ilissos, especially under the 19th c. bridge. For this site, nowadays invisible and degraded—hosting a number of parasitic activities—a number of proposals have been made in order to turn Kallirois Avenue (and further on Posidonos Avenue) into a pedestrians’ walk with parallel reclaiming of the banks of the river.

National Museum of Contemporary Art What is more, the façade of the National Museum of Contemporary Art—the former FIX brewery building—not far from the Olympieion area, will feature running water, in memoriam of the lost river.

Faliron gulf Finally, a study-report has been compiled (ΕΟΕ 1989 & ΕΟΕ 1992) proposing the establishment of a Natural Park at the delta of Ilissos, at Faliro gulf, and the creation of a Centre for Environmental Education.

Timeline

1000 BC 6th -4th c. BC: Ilissos is considered a landmark for the city of Athens and various activities are organised by its banks, ranging from official civic and religious practices to customary walks, as recorded also by Plato.

6th c. BC: The temple of Olympian Zeus, the most prominent of the ‘parilissian sanctuaries’ is founded (to be concluded 700 years later in the Roman era). 500 BC 0 2nd c. AD: The benefactor of the city Hadrian offers important public infrastructure buildings and edifices, extending the city eastwards of the river. Athenians offer the ‘Gate of Hadrian’, a monumental entrance to this new part of the city.

500 AD 5th c. AD: A vivid early Christian settlement is formed by Ilissos banks (today METS area). 1000 AD 1500 AD

19th c. Impressive buildings designed by known architects are built on the boulevard on the right bank of the river. 1890s: The Panathenaic stadium is refurbished to host the 1st modern Olympic Games. After a flood the gradual covering of the river begins. 1900-1950: The need for more urban space leads to the burying of the remaining open parts of the river. Part of it is being diverted to Faliro gulf to prevent floods (Marshall Plan). 2000 AD Today : Several proposals aspire to raise awareness on Ilissos, the ‘lost river’, proposing its sustainable re-introduction in the Athenian landscape.