Ilissos River
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Ilissos river Ilissos river was considered in antiquity as the Plato, Phaedrus second main river of Athens, forming an [229a] Socrates: Let us turn aside here horizontal landmark in its southern and and go along the Ilissus; then we can sit eastern sides. Ancient writers mention various down quietly wherever we please. activities by its banks, varying from civic Phaedrus: I am fortunate, it seems, in processes, cults—including a sanctuary being Barefoot; you are so always. It is dedicated to the river himself, by Ardittos hill- easiest then for us to go along the Brook with our feet in the water, and it is not or social walks and philosophical endeavours in unpleasant, especially at this time of the idyllic landscapes, as for Socrates and his year and the day. disciples (Plato, Phaedrus 229a-229d). Socrates: Lead on then, and look out for a good place where we may sit. While the social life around the river flourished, a number of edifices where Phaedrus: Do you see that very tall plane tree? constructed along its banks dating from antiquity to 19th century, contributing to the Socrates: What of it? accessibility between them and the efficient [229B] Phaedrus: There is shade there management of the river water (springs, and a moderate Breeze and grass to sit bridges, water works). on, or, if we like, to lie down on. Socrates: Lead the way. Ilissos has undergone several re-arrangements on its route, commencing from antiquity and Phaedrus: Tell me, Socrates, is it not culminating in the 20th century AD, when the from some place along here By the Ilissus that Boreas is said to have carried river was finally channelled underground. off Oreithyia? Nowadays, it flows underneath the city of Athens, forming one of its invisible Socrates: Yes, that is the story. characteristics. A number of stakeholders are Phaedrus: Well, is it from here? The currently working on raising awareness on the streamlet looks very pretty and pure and ‘lost river’, proposing potential solutions for its clear and fit for girls to play By. sustainable re-introduction in the Athenian [229c] Socrates: No, the place is aBout landscape. two or three furlongs farther down, where you cross over to the precinct of Agra; and there is an altar of Boreas The region of Attica is a mountainous area, somewhere thereaBouts. alternating with valleys formed between its peaks. Athens itself is surrounded by several Phaedrus: I have never noticed it. But, for Heaven's sake, Socrates, tell me; do mountains, while the southwest part of the city you Believe this tale is true? is open to the sea. Socrates: If I disBelieved, as the wise men do, I should not Be extraordinary; The two main rivers of the otherwise ‘dry and then I might give a rational explanation, thin-earthed’ Athens (Thucydides I.2.5) are that a Blast of Boreas, the north wind, Kifissos and Ilissos. Both were streams during pushed her off the neighBoring rocks as she was playing with Pharmacea, and the dry seasons but in periods of intense [229d] that when she had died in this rainfall they turned into torrents, overflowing manner she was said to have Been their banks and causing floods reported since carried off By Boreas. antiquity (Plato, Critias 111a, link), especially Plato, Phaedrus, 229a-229d, Plato in nearby their estuary at the sea. Twelve Volumes, Vol. 9 translated By Harold N. Fowler. CamBridge, MA, Harvard University Press; London, William Heinemann Ltd. 1925. (link) Kifissos river springs from the Mount Parnitha and flows into the gulf of Faliro, across the western side of the city. Ilissos river, on the other hand, springs from the north-western slopes of Hymettus; collecting rainwater from smaller streams, it runs on the east and south part of the historical centre of Athens, joined by the third river of Athens, Eridanos, in its route towards Faliro gulf, a few kilometres eastern of Kifissos estuary (In antiquity Ilissos merged with Kifissos outside the city. In mid - 20th century AD it was diverted and now it flows on a different river bed, under P. Tsaldari Avenue at Kallithea). Nowadays, Kifissos, Ilissos and Eridanos are have been covered almost in their entire length. View of Ilissos river and Acropolis, 1910 Considering the natural environment, an important part of the scarce green patches in modern Athens (e.g. Kaisariane monastery, Ardittos, National Garden, Olympieion park) are watered by Ilissos river, thus preserving a notable ecosystem in the urban environment, including different species of birds, trees, bushes and flowers. In the area of Mets for example, by the St. Foteini church—one of the few open sites of Ilissos—experts have recorded willows (Vitex agnus-castus), oleanders (Nerium Oleander), plane trees (Platanus orientalis), while stroks building their nests could be spotted in historical copperplates. Also, in the gulf of Faliron— Ilissos’ estuary—, a delta is formed hosting more than one hundred species of aquatic birds, some rare in Attica or threatened, as charadriiformes, little ringed plovers, cormorants, alcyons, grey herons, great crested grebes, broad billed sandpipers and even brown necked gooses. In early 20th century 250 plant species have been recorded in the area, but today only a few survive, as some halophytes. The route of the river and associated architecture Emanating from the north-western slopes of Hymettus mountain and discharging in Faliro gulf after concurring to Kifissos, Ilissos river run outside the eastern and southern walls of the ancient city of Athens moving west, draining rainwater in its route by converging seasonal streams. One of its branches run through the contemporary Kaisariane monastery area (and gorge), while the northern one through the byzantine monastery of St. John the Theologian, at the south of Cholargos area. In that area several aqueducts were built parallel to the route of the river, most prominent of which was the Peisistrateian (540-530 BC) that carried water from Hymettus to the city centre. Heading south, Ilissos’ bed proper flows under the contemporary avenues and the modern-day ‘Ilissia’ area. It passes by the Panathenaic Stadium (Vasilissis Sofias Avenue), at a place where a three-arched roman bridge used to stand. That was an offer by Herodes Atticus (2nd c. AD). Although in 1738 the travellers report that architectural members from the bridge were used to build the houses nearby, the bridge survived until 1778 and was rebuilt in 1870’s along with the Panathenaic stadium, that would host the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The bridge was demolished in the mid 20th century during the river encasement and the construction of the square in front of the stadium. The river then flows by the byzantine chapel of St. Foteini "of Ilissos", built on top of the ancient sanctuary of Hekate and by the sanctuary of Pan. At this site a shallow marshland called Vatrachonisi (= Frog Island) was located until the 19th century, opposite Ardittos hill, between two branches of the river (another patch of land between the split course of the river is spotted north-west of the Panathenaic stadium). In 1897 a great flood caused the submersion Vatrachonisi and diversion of the river to the south, into its medieval bank, in order to forestall future threats. The area by St. Foteini, is one of the few sites where the river is still traceable today, forming an interesting but unattended park. In the 19th c. a bridge was built at this point, joining the two banks of the river, and it is still visible today, bearing the crest of King Otto, the first king of Greece and the name of the Mayor of Athens Ι. Koniaris (1801-1872). In this area, a rock cluster formed a deep chasm of 4-5 meters, shaping small waterfalls. Kallirhoe spring, one of the most renowned waterworks in ancient Athens, was located in this area as well. In the last quarter of the 6th century B.C. its waters were channelled to the so- called Enneakrounos fountain (fountain with nine water-spouts), often mentioned and depicted in ancient Agia Foteini, Ilissos, 1960. Photo: Theodoros Politis times. Ilissos waters are still used During the Greek Revolution of 1821, in a small house today to water the National within the Metohi* and near the church of the Holy Garden of Athens, at the Power, the famous pyrotechnic Mastropavlis was making north-east side of this area. ammunition for the Turks who were fortified in the Castle. However, only a small amount of this ammunition The river then moves to the reached the Turks, the amount which was fabricated in a south-eastern flank of the very slow pace during the day. The greatest amount was roman temple of Olympian made during the night in a hectic pace, and was received Zeus (a visitable and in the morning secretly by lady Manolaina Biniari, inside monumental archaeological her laundry coffin. She took the coffin to Ilissos river, at the Kalliroe source. From there, the gunpowder and the site), leaving behind the cartridges were transferred by trusted people to Menidi, ‘parilissian sancturies’ where the revolutionaries were gathered for the towards Faliron. rebellion of the 25th of April 1821. After converging with * A Metohi is a a monastery dependency (off the monastery's area) with a small church, cell and auxiliary Eridanos, Ilissos could be rooms for the Metohari (monk or priest-monk) which afterwards traced under occupies it each time taking care of it, officiating it, Thisseos Avenue (Kallithea cultivating and maintaining it. area), where occasionally overflows after torrential rain, causing various problems. Its original course in antiquity turned north-west to join Kifissos, heading south towards the sea.