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Home , Applegate Trail, California Trail, Cornelius Gilliam, Covered wagon, Ewing Young, Fandango Pass

'1776BICENTENNIAL 1976

APPLEGATE II

KLAMATH ECHOES

Sanctioned by Kiamath County Historical Society

Number 14 e

A covered along the Trail in near the South emigrant crossing.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

FORGOTTEN Strange, is it not? that of the myriads who Before us pass'd the door of Darkness through Not one returns to tell us of the Trail, Which to discover we must travel too. Apologies to Omar Khayyam. Hannah Ann (Davis) Hendricks (Courtesy Fred Evin Inlow) DEDICATION We respectfully dedicate this, the fourteenth issue of Kiamath Echoes, to Hanna Ann Davis, 14 years of age in 1847. She came west across the plains with her father, three brothers and four sisters, her mother having died enroute. Traveling the Oregon- and Applegate Trails, they arrived at Fandango Valley, east of Goose Lake in extreme Northeastern California on September 29, 1847. While Hanna Ann was preparing the evening meal, three arrows were fired into the camp by Indians hiding in the nearby brush. Two of the arrows struck Hanna Ann. One passed through the calf of her leg and the other through her arm and into her side. She fell into the fire and was severely burned. According to Lester G. Hulin, the 1847 diarist, three days later Hanna Ann was still unabletoride in a wagon and "had to be carried by a stage [stretcher?]. Only recently have we learned (from information furnished by Fred Elvin Inlow, Medford, Oregon, a distant relative) that Hanna Ann survived, later married, and raised a family of ten children. "FACING WEST" Within her eyes, a calm like waters deep, Revealed the strength of soul, the faith that shone Serene and steadfastthrough the storm and dark Upon that far-off goal she viewed, and won. - Pearle R. Casey

[I Klamath Echoes Staff

DEVERE HELFRICH Managing Editor HELEN HELFRICH Assistant Editor

OFFICERS Kiamath County Historical Society

NORMA UERLING President OSCAR ANDERSON Vice President JIM PETERS Secretary-Treasurer LETTA GOEHRING Program Chairman WILLIAM G. KRAL, LEONA ANGEL, JIM COLEMAN and JERRY CARL Directors

Address all communications to: KLAMATH ECHOES P. 0. BOX 1552 KLAMATH FALLS, OREGON 97601

THE COVER: Our cover was drawn by Deborah Runnels, Art Teacher at Klamath Union High School.

III EDITOR'S PAGE This book, the history of that portionuated new and even worse errors. of the "West of the Cas- Further, this volume tells the story of cades," is being published with a three-those first emigrants (1846 and 1847) in fold purpose. great detail, how the trails appeared to As Part II of the history of the Ap-the bewildered and fatigued emigrants, plegate Trail to finish that begun in Part I,what remains today, and how it may be Klamath Echoes No. 9, published in 1971.found in a few places and its approximate As a Bicentennial Issue for Kiamathlocation in others. Echoes as best suited for our contribution In the past there has been a great deal to Oregon History. of misunderstanding as to exactly where As a culmination of more than 30 the Applegate Trail actually ran in the be- years intermittant and concentrated re- ginning. Several historians have written of search, both "armchair" and on location. the trail but failed to pursue any "on the In Part I, Klamath Echoes No. 9, 1971 spot" research, taking the word of others we gave the history of when, where, why,as to its location. Many errors in location who and how the Applegate Trail was firsthave crept into their writings. Now, new laid out and used for many years as theinformation; old information that has southern emigrant entry into Oregon. been unavailable, or unknown to many in Turning from the on thethe past; several diaries and reminiscences in Northwestern Nevadathat seem never to have been consulted; it led to a junction with the older Oregon- and early General Land Office survey California Trail, used by traders, trap-maps (the actual field notes could prob- pers and explorers some five miles south ably further pin-point locations more ac- of Ashland, Oregon. curately) that may also have been un- Although out of the boundaries of known to most, all more or less locate the Klamath Country history, we have gath-old trail and its successors as near as can ered so much material and retraced toonow be approximated, owing to cities, much of the old trail to leave it danglingfarming operations, and present day lines at the head (south end) of of transportation. Valley. Otherwise unrecorded history of But one section remains questionable great interest to future historians might to this writerthat from Yoncalla Valley be lost forever. to Pass Creek near Anlauf. Two known We find that the repetition by manyroutes here confront the trail historian. historians in the past of certain inaccu- One follows the new Highway racies have created almost unquestionedthrough Drain and up Pass Creek. This beliefs. In fact, they have become accept- writer favors the Interstate5 route as ed as the truth. being the original trail for reasons that One of the purposes of this book is to will be given in Chapter VIII. correct these accepted "facts" in so far as It is this writer's belief that the Apple- we are able by the use of contemporary gate Trail should be marked in entirety, records left by the emigrants and thoseand itis our sincere hope this history closely connected with them. Our find- may be of some benefit to those interest- ings are based on long overlooked anded. There is no better time for those or- hitherto unknown manuscripts by those ganizations situated along the old trail to who knew or participated in these events. commence their activities than now, our We have found that stories handed nation's Bicentennial Year. down by second and third generations for We understand that the Jackson Coun- the most part vary so much in the telling ty Historical Society plans on marking as to become almost worthless. Further- the Applegate Trail through their county more, no two reminiscences of the actual during the coming year. participants correspond, making it very Beginning in October, 1969 Trails West, difficult to ascertain the true story. We Inc., a dedicated organization headquar- can only hope that we have not perpet- tered in Reno, , has been placing IV historical markers along the various oldbetween Big Valley on Pitt River to the emigrant trails. This writer and his wifeLake Almanor vicinity southwest of West- are charter members and have been ins-wood. trumental in locating the sites for many In addition, the Klamath County His- of the markers. torical Society on August 17, 1974 placed In addition, the Nevada Trail Marking10 markers along the Applegate Trail be- Committee, Inc., of Reno (now disband-tween Keno, Oregon and Jenny Creek. ed) have turned over to Trails West, Inc.Next, during May of 1975, they placed some 67 markers that they placed duringfourmarkers along pioneer roadsin 1968-1972.12 of these markers wereChristmas Valley, Lake County, Oregon, placed along the California Trail down"Reub Long Country." the Humboldt River, beginning at Calla- In winding up our research of the Ap- han Bridge near Imlay and ending on theplegate Trail in the we south of Lovelock. 24were hindered to a great extent by the were placed along the Truckee Routefall rains that had begun in all their intens- from Humboldt Sink to the Summit ofity. We were unable to pursue any re- the Sierras, approximated by Interstatesearch that led away from the pavements. 80.31were placed along the CarsonOn the other hand, we encountered the Route from the Humboldt Sink to thesame conditions as those met by the 1846 Summit of the Sierras, approximated byemigration. If not witnessed it is practic- U.S. Highway 50. ally impossible to visualize the difficulties Trails West, Inc. has marked the Apple-met and overcome by those emigrants in gate Trail from its separation point fromtrying to convey their through the theCaliforniaTrail on the Humboldtquagmire of rain, mud and high waters River near Imlay, to Pot Hole Springs inof the roadless route they were com- Modoc County, California, southeast ofpelled to travel. Clear Lake. These markers range from To their credit, be it said, they trav- about five miles apart to some 15 or 20eled where present day vehicles could not miles apart. It is planned to fill in thepossibly proceedexcept a few feet. lengthier gaps with at least one or two markers at some future time. In addition,Trails West, Inc. has marked Nobles' Trail which branched from the Applegate Trail near Rabbit Hole Springs toSusanville,California. Also marked is that portion of Lassen's Trail which turned from the Applegate Trail in Fandango Valley east of Goose Lake to a point on Pitt River midway be- tween Canby and Lookout. During August, 1974 ten markers were placed in extreme northeastern Nevada, beginning on Goose Creek near the line and ending at the mouth of Bishop Creek Canyon near Wells. In June, 1975 ten more markers were placed along the Humboldt River between Deeth and Cal- lahan Bridge near Imlay. Trails West, Inc., during the coming season, June, 1976, will place some 15William D. Davis, the youngest brother of markers on the Nobles' Trail between Hannah Ann Davis. 'Uncle Bill" was born Susanville and Old Shasta west of Red-in 1846 inIowa, and died in Jackson ding. Later, in August, 1976, they willCounty, Oregon in 1925, (Courtesy Fred place a like number along the Lassen Trail Elvin Inlow)

V TABLE OF CONTENTS

Editor's Page IV

I Before the Applegate Trail 1 II Through the Rogue, Umpqua and Willamette Valleys 5 III Travelers West of the Cascades 10 IV Emigrant Reservoir (Klamath Junction) to Gold Hill 16 V Gold Hill to Azalea 23

VT Azalea to North Roseburg 36 VIINorth Roseburg to Scott's Valley 59 VIIIScott's Valley to North Eugene 71 IX North Eugene to South of Corvallis 79 X South of Corvallis to Salt Creek, Rickreall, Salem 84 XI Relief Parties 96

VI 'rrIa ii DaI1s len,

a-. THE APPLEGATE TRAIL Part II, West of the Cascades

CHAPTER I BEFORE THE APPLEGATE TRAIL The history of the Applegate Trail istance southwest of present day Astoria, being published in two parts by KiatnathOregon. was completed by Echoes. Part I, that portion of the 1846January 1, 1806. emigrant trail from the Humboldt River On April12, 1811 the Pacific Fur in Nevada to a point a few miles south ofCompany, owned by the Astors, selected Ashland, Oregon was published in thea site in present Astoria, twelve miles in- 1971, or No. 9 Issue of Kiamath Echoes.land, upon which they at once commenced Now, five years later, Part II will continueconstruction of their "." the Applegate Trail through the Rogue, By December 11, 1811 a party under Umpqua and Willamette Valleys to an ap- set out from Astoria to proximate point on La Creole or Rickreall examine the , and deter- River near present day Dallas, Oregon.mine if a trading post should be opened It is hoped the following evolutionarysomewhere on its banks, the natives hav- history will clear up some of the pasting reported many there. The vi- false impressions as to the location of thecinity proved to be a veritable garden, Applegate Trail "West of the Cascades."replete with all the beauties of nature, and Actually, location of this second portionwell stocked with animals, birds and fish. of the Applegate Trail had been thorough- Then on January8,1812 Donald ly known and understood for years when McKenzie with twelve companions arrived the settlers of the Willamette Valley setoverland from the , to be out on their exploring expedition. It butfollowed on February 15th, by Wilson remained for a route suitable for wagonPrice Hunt's party of thirty-four men. travel to be located. In a journey during the spring of 1812, The Applegate Trail "West of the Cas-Donald McKenzie and party explored the cades" differed from the first portioncountry southward from the Columbia (covered by Kiamath Echoes No. 9) inRiver some hundred miles or more, as- that its route was more or less known incending the Willamette to the country of advance, while the eastern portion fromthe Calapooyas (near the present day the Rogue River Valley to the California Eugene-Springfield area) and discovered Trail on the Humboldt River in Nevadathe stream which bears his name to this was almost strictly an unknown and un- day. explored wilderness. During January, 1813 men were sent The evolution of the Applegate Trailto the Willamette to spend the remainder should probably begin with what mightof the winter where game was plentiful. be termed the first American expansionThey penetrated the country as far south into the . On May 17,as the headwaters of the Umpqua. 1792 Captain Robert Gray in the ship Later that year, 1813, McKenzie made Columbia discovered and entered thefrequent trips up the Columbia and Will- mouth of the which heamette rivers for dried . named for his ship. On October 16,1813 Astoria was Next Lewis and Clark in their westward turned over to Great Britain and the advance across the newly acquired Louis-North West Fur Company. The fort was iana Purchase of , arrivedre-christened "Fort George" by them on at the mouth of the Columbia River on December 1st. November 7,1805. By Christmas Day Moving farther south we find that the they were quartered in their newly con- was discovered and its structed cabins a few miles inland on the mouth entered by a Captain Baker in the south bank of the Columbia a short dis-ship Jenny during the summer of 1791. Some 27 years then elapsed before a partySierra-Cascade Mountains following down of North West Fur Company trappersthe . They seem to have penetrated overland southward from thereached the Applegate and Rogue Rivers Columbia River into the Umpqua countryin their search for beaver. in 1818. The party consisted of 60 men Somewhere in that general neighbor- led by two half-breed Canadian clerks.hood, Ogden left to trap Clashes followed between the whites andthe forks of the Rogue, then later to head Indians. north and open a route to Fort Vancou- Thomas McKay is supposed to havever, thus becoming the first known white been south of the Wilamette Valley asman to travel the route part of which early as 1820. It is possible that he estab-was later to become the Applegate Trail lished a fur depot, or meeting place for"West of the Cascades." trappers at "Old Establishment," "Mc- Then, early in 1827 McLeod led an- Kay's Fort," or "Umpqua Old Fort" atother trapping expedition into the Ump- that time. The fur depot location is sup-qua country, returning to posed to have been on the Umpqua Riverin March. Later, after other assignments at the mouth of Calapooya Creek, buthe again left for the Umpqua country on may have been at the mouth of HubbardNovember 17, 1827. This trip was unsuc- Creek. cessful due to a severe winter, and he Louis Pichette and Louis Kanota, theagainreturnedto Fort Vancouver in Hawaiian, later Hudson's Bay CompanyMarch, 1828. It was on one of these two employees, are said to have crossed thetrips that McLod is supposed to have Sierra-Cascade Mountains south of Pittestablished a fur station, "Umpqua Old River in into the Sac-Fort." ramento Valley in 1821, but what route In September of 1828 McLeod was they traveled to reach this crossing is un-sent to explore the Buenaventura (Sacra- known. mento) River, and also to assist in the re- That same year, 1821, the ownershipcovery of the goods of , of Fort George was transferred to thetaken by Indians on July 14, 1828 near Hudson's Bay Company. the mouth of the Umpqua, when 15 Then, in the spring of 1825, Dr. Johnmembers of Smiths party of 19 men McLoughlin removed the fort from Astor-were killed. ia to a new site at Vancouver, Washington, McLeod, assisted by Thomas McKay on the north bank of the Columbia Riverand accompanied by Smith, left Vancou- opposite the mouth of the Willamettever on September 6th. Two days later he River. met Michel La Framboise, who had been Next, during the spring, summer andsent ahead to scout out the situation. The fall of 1826, Alexander Roderic McLeodmassacre site was reached October 21st, led two different Hudson's Bay Companyand most of Smith's horses and re- trapping expeditions south. The first wascovered. McLeod's base camp on the along the coast as far south as the SiuslawUmpqua River was reached on November River. The second expedition penetrated22nd. as far south on the coast as Rogue River, On December 1st, McLeod, instead of then returned inland where they arrivedcontinuing on to California, began a re- at "Depaty's camp" (Jean Baptiste Des-turn trip to Vancouver where he arrived portes the freeman) near present Rose-December 14th. He was severely censured burg, Oregon on December 17, 1826.by McLoughlin for this unscheduled re- Desportes as well as McLeod has alsoturn. been given credit for establishing "Ump- Again and for the last time McLeod qua Old Fort" heretofore mentioned. and his party headed southward toward During the winter of 1826-27, PeterCalifornia in January, 1829. Some claim Skene Ogden and his Hudson's Bay Com-he traveled down the coast on a route pany Fur Brigadepassed through theapproximating Jedediah Smith's north- ward trek (History of Siskiyou County,the Pacific Highway, Old 99, or new California).Further, he is supposed toInterstate 5. have traveled to a point south of present This trail, with slight variations, con- Stockton, California. tinued in use by Hudson's Bay Company McLeods return northward is the routeparties until 1843 when Michel La Fram- with which this history isvitally con- boise led the last expedition over it. At cerned, since it is our first documentedsome unknown date, but before 1837 a record of use of the California-Oregontrail was located which led down the Trail through the Rogue and UmpquaSacramento River Canyon between pres- River Valleys which in part became theent day Mount Shasta City and Redding, later Applegate Trail "West of the Cas- California. It, however, is out of the terri- cades." McLeod probably left the Sacra- tory of our story. mento Valley by a route, previously men- McLeod's ill-fated journey northward tioned,southofPittRiver.Turningduring the winter of 1829-1830 thus be- northward in Fall River Valley, he passedcomes our first known documented use east of Mt. Shasta, via the Military Pass ofof the Applegate Trail as described in our later years. While near the headwaters ofParts I and II, Applegate Trail History. present McCloud RiverinDecember,Furthermore, McLeod's journal of this 1829 he lost his horses in a fierce snow-trip is supposed to rest in the archives of storm and was forced to cache his fursthe Hudson's Bay Company files, but are and equipment. He eventually arrived atunavailable to this writer. Vancouver on February 13, 1830 by a At about this same time the French route that later was approximated by thePrairie area of the lower Willamette Valley Pacific Highway, Old 99, or present Inter-(wherein lies Champoeg, north of Salem) state 5. received its first settlers, retired members The original Hudson's Bay Companyof the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1829. Trail led southward from Thomas McKay'sDuring the same year, Dr. McLoughlin farm near present day Scapoose on thefiled on a millsite on the Willamette Columbia River below Portland. It crossedRiver at present day Oregon City. over a range of hills to enter the Tualatin 1832witnessed two Hudson's Bay Plains in the Forest Grove-Hillsboro vicin-Company Fur Brigades leaving Vancouver ity. The Yamhill River was crossed nearheaded south for California by different Dayton and theRickreallRiver nearroutes. One, under Michel La Framboise, Dallas-Rickreall. Then keeping west of the traveled the McLeod route of the previous Willamette River, the trail led past Mon-year. The other, under John Work, trav- mouth, Corvallis and Monroe. Followingeled up the Columbia River to Fort Nez up the west bank of the Long Tom River Perce,then southward tothe Harney it reached Fern Ridge Reservoir to crossBasin, Warner Valley, Goose Lake and over and follow south up Coyote CreekPitt River, crossing over the Sierra-Cas- which lies some ten miles west of Eugene. cades by the usual route south of Pitt The Siuslaw River was reached near Lor- River Canyon. ane and its headwaters followed to reach Both parties joined and trapped in the the Umpqua drainage near Curtin at theBay area during the winter of 1832-33. junction of Pheasant and Pass Creeks. ThisThey separated at Bodega with La Fram- route approximately became the Territor-boise returning to Vancouver in early ial Road of later years. July, 1833 by the McLeod route. Work Continuing southward the trail passedalso returned to Vancouver over the same the present towns of Oakland and Suther-route but not until in September. Work un to possibly reach the Umpqua Riverwhile in the Siskiyou Mountain vicinity, at the mouth of Calapooya Creek, therecorded seeing the sign of an American supposed site of McLeod's "Umpqua Oldparty traveling southward on the McLeod Fort." From this point south, the furroute. trail to California varies but little from ln 1834, from May 22nd to July 10th, John Work and 12 men, following theficers and men, a number of settlers, and originalHudson's Bay Company Traila few newly arrived emigrants from the down the western Willamette Valley foot-year before, thirty-nine in all, with 76 hills, reached "Umpqua Old Fort" at thehorses. They also followed the by now mouth of Calapooya Creek west of Oak-well established Oregon-California trail up land. Work returned by a different route,the Willamette and across the Umpqua, the first recorded use of this route, oneRogue and Klamath Rivers and Mountains. that was eventually to become the Apple- In 1843 the Lansford W. Hastings party gateTrailfromapointnear Drain,of fifty-three started overland to Calif- through Cottage Grove and Eugene, join-ornia. "Several days travel below Rogue ing their outbound trail north of Monroe.River" they met the Leese-McClure party As late as the latter part of September,enroute from California to Oregon. About 1834 when the Methodist missionariesone-third of the Hastings party turned under arrived, there were butback to Oregon with the other party. about a dozen families living in the Willa- 1843 also witnessed the "Big Migra- mette valley, all at . Thetion" from the River, via the first mission was soon established someOregon Trail to the settlements of the ten miles north of present Salem. Willamette Valley. The three Applegate During this same summer a party ofbrothers;Charles,Lindsay and Jessee, sixteen Americans under the leadership ofwith their families, were members of this Hall J. Kelley and traveledmigration. overland from California. They had in The Applegate families wintered at the their possession nearly one hundred horsesold Methodist Mission at the south end of and . French Prairie. Jesse was employed in Somewhere in the California-Oregonsurveying at both Salem and Oregon City. mountains Kelley was stricken with feverIn the spring of 1844 the three brothers and was nursed back to life by Michel Lasettled on farms on Salt Creek north of Framboise of a Hudson's Bay Companypresent day Dalles, situated on the Rick- party. The American party also had somereall River. difficultieswithIndiansalong Rogue 1844 witnessed the arrival across the River, but arrived at Vancouver by Octo-plains of another man, Levi Scott, who ber 27th. was to play a major part in the history of During the summer of 1835 a party ofthe latter Applegate Trail. Scott perhaps eight men traveled overland from Calif-became the best authority for events con- ornia. They too were attacked by Indianscerning this route, and only recently have on Rogue River and four of their numberhis reminiscences come to light histori- killed. Three of the survivors were Bailey,cally. Gay and Turner. In 1845 a number of the 1844 Oregon Next, in the summer of 1837, theemigrants went toCalifornia overland Willamette Cattle Company, which hadunder the leadership of . been organized the fall before with theThis party rendezvoused at La Creole assistance of William Slacum, also traveled(Rickreall)tostart on their southern overland from California. Ewing Youngjourney June 8th. The company consisted with ten others delivered 630 cattle withof thirty-nine men, one woman and three a loss of approximately 200. children. They arrived at Sutter's Fort on In 1840 Jason Lee and party traveledJuly 12th. as far south as Fort Umpqua seeking a Thus it will be seen that by the spring location for a mission among the Ump-of 1846 the Oregon to California Trail quas. overland must have been well known and Late in August, 1841 a company wasused by many. Furthermore, it must be organized by Lt. Emmons of the Wilkes'understood that the trips above recorded expedition to travel overland from Oregonby no means enumerate all that actually to California. It consisted of eighteen of-transpired between Oregon and California during the 1805-1845 period. Rather it iswhatsoever. Occasionally, however, as in a record of those of whom some know-the case of the Levi Scott reminiscences, ledge of their travels has become availablenew, or rather old recordings do come to to this writer. Literally hundreds traveledlight in some forgotten trunk or other this route of whom there is no recorddepository.

CHAPTER II THROUGH THE ROGUE, UMPUUA, AND WILLAMETTE VALLEYS It will be remembered that the Apple- mating the present Greensprings Highway, gate Trail was laid out from West to East,State Route 66, to enter the Rogue River but firsttraveled by emigrant wagonsValley a few miles southeast of Ashland, from East to West. The better to under- Oregon. stand the second section of the trail, we "From this point to Eugene, Oregon will repeat the first page of Applegatenear the head, or southern end, of the Trail, Part I at this time. Willamette Valley, the Applegate Trail is "The Applegate Trail was explored,closely approximated by present Inter- laid out and first used in the year 1846,state 5, or Old Pacific Highway 99. as a southern emigrant route into the "There were several reasons why such WillametteValley,thentheprinciplea route was deemed necessary: settlement in the . War with Great Britain over the "The trailitself branched from thelocation of the boundary between Canada parent California Trail on the Humboldtand the United States was a definite p05- River at what later became known as Las-sitiity, and, if such a situation came to sen's Meadow, now Rye Patch Reservoir,pass, Great Britain controlled, by means near Imlay, Nevada. It led in a northwest-of a string of Hudson's Bay Company erlydirectionacross the Black Rockposts at Fort Vancouver, Fort Nez Perce Desert, through High Rock and Fortyand , the only road into or out Nine Canyons, in Northwestern Nevada,of the Oregon Country by which troops to enter California near its extreme north-or supplies could be moved, or, for that eastern corner, 29 miles south of the Ore-matter, settlers make a retreat out of the gon-California State Line. territory south of the Columbia River. "It crossed the at There was the difficulty of the , skirted the southern endOregon Trail down the Snake and Colum- of Goose Lake, this section varying frombia Rivers to The Dalles where the wagon year to year depending on the shore lineroad then ended. On this route the emi- of the lake, and keeping a slightly northgrants of 1843, '44 and '45 experienced of west course, passed north of Clear Lakemuch loss of property and even life. In to reach the Basin a few milesaddition, grass and water were scarce over south of present Malin, Oregon. much of the way, and the hardships al- "The trail crossed at themost unbearable. Stone Bridge, some two miles southeast From The Dalles only crude In- of Merrill, Oregon to once more dip intodian trails crossed the Cascade Mountains, California and pass south of "Little" orover which wagons could not be trans- Lower Klamath Lake. ported. These sorely needed vehicles in "Continuing northwesterly, the Klam-the new settlements must be abandoned ath River was forded near Keno the firstat The Dalles, or be taken apart and float- year, and some four or five miles farthered down the Columbia River, a difficult downstream in later years. Then followingand dangerous trip on hastily constructed a westward course, the Cascade Mountainsrafts. were crossed on a route closely approxi- "Thus by the early summer of 1846, several fruitless attempts to find a newwere: Gen. , Solomon route into the Willamette Valley had allTetherow, Wm. G. Parker, Bennett Os- failed. The Barlow Trail, south of Mountborn, Levi Scott, John M. Scott, Moses Hood, had stopped short of the Cascade"Black" Harris, Jones, Robert Smith, Summit, nor was it then known whetherB.F. Burch, S.H. Goodhue, David Goff, it could be extended into the settlementsWilliam Sportsman, --- Wilson, and one in time for the 1846 emigration." unnamed man, if there were actually fif- SincetheApplegateTrailhaditsteen in the party. They did not elect a ground-work set up in the Willametteleader, regardless of what has been re- Valley near Rickreall, at the home of thecorded in the past, and they had no guide. Applegate Brothers at that time, we will Traveling southward along the western begin there. One member of the 1846 ex-foothills of the Willamette Valley, they ploring expedition (not a member of thepassed the later sites of Corvallis, Monroe Applegate family) in his reminiscences ofand Cheshire, keeping along the western many years later, recalled that a Provis- side of Long Tom River. In the neighbor- ional Government had been organizedhood of present Fern Ridge Reservoir during the summer of 1843, to opposethey crossed to the east side and headed the Hudson's Bay Company which wasfor a high butte in the south end of the endeavoring to claim and hold the countryvalley, a short distance south of later as a possession of the British Crown. TheEugene City. According to a member of Hon. George Abernathy had been electedthe party, this butte was named Spencer's in 1845, and hadButte by General Giliam for an old friend, done everything in his power to carry outand from its summit they could trace the the objects of the new, and ambitious,course of each of the three forks of the little government. He encouraged the set-Willamette River and decided the Middle tlement of the country by "brave andFork gave the most promising appearance hardy Americans," to the utmost of hisfor a practicable pass across the Cascade ability, and to the extent of the limitedMountains. means under his control. Resuming their journey southeasterly With the passage of years this Provis-the party crossed the South, or Coast ional Government looked a great dealFork of the Willamette about three miles larger than it really was. It had next to noabove its junction with the Middle Fork revenues, nor any means to do anythingup which they continued past later Pleas- towards making roads across the moun-ant Hill to the narrows above present tains, and the settlers, although "possessedLookout Point Reservoir where they could of incomparable pluck and energy," hadfind no suitable passage for a road. A little to contribute towards such an under-portion of the 1853 emigration did use taking. this pass but with great difficulty. During the spring of 1846 there was a Returning downstream the party again concerted call for volunteers to view andreached the Coast Fork, followed up its locate an emigrant road across the moun- eastern bank to a point somewhere be- tains. A company of fifteen men wastween present Creswell and Cottage Grove. raised. Each must furnish his own horsesLater, after crossing to the western side and all supplies, take any risks he mightthey struck an Indian trail which led encounter with the Indians, spend theacross the into the time, and endure the hardships of such anUmpqua Valley. expedition in a wild, mountainous, and At this camp, General Gilliam left the unexplored country, "for the considera-party and returned home alone. As told tions of pure patriotism, and the gratifi-later it now became apparent to the party cation of adventurous curiosity." they had neglected to follow a few basic Accordingly, this group of fifteen Polkrules; they failed to have an organized County citizens started their exploringplan with a leader and a guide. trip on May 15th, 1846. The members Continuing southward on the Indian trail the party reached and crossed Elkly from his map that they learned the Creek, after which they became dividedKlamath River cut the Cascades in a low in their opinions as to whether the stream pass suitable for their purposes. was a tributary of the Umpqua or Willa- had consulted mette Rivers. That noon three more mem- "Mitchell's Map" and learnedthat a bers of the party, Tetherow, Wilson and straightline between a pointslightly Smith, turned back, leaving but ten or south of the head of Rogue River Valley eleven men at the most to continue the(near the summit of the Siskiyou Moun- explorations. tains) and a point on Bear River in ex- "Black" Harris then assumed the lead-treme southwestern (near pres- ership of the reduced party which contin- ent Cokeville. where Sublette's Cut-off ued its southward journey two more days,intersected the ), approximat- to Calapooya Creek, in the Umpqua Vat-ed the 42nd parallel. This line is now the ley just above the later town of Oakland. southern boundary of the States of Ore- There it was decided the remaining mem-gon and . The original intention of bers would also turn back with very littlethe road hunters was to intercept the accomplished toward finding apass 1846 emigrants on the Oregon Trail at through the Cascade Mountains. this point. However, due to their late Plans for a new emigrant road, how-start, the emigrants began to be encount- ever, did not die. Another company wasered near the junction of Raft and Snake soon formed for the same purpose, but Rivers, the bulk of the migration having this time under the leadership of Jessealready passed that point. Applegate. Fifteen men also constituted Jesse Applegate evidently had this second group, eleven of them having recently read one of Capt. John C. Fre- been in the first exploring party. mont's reports of his 1843-44 exploration The second company's membership in- through Oregon and Nevada. He knew cluded Jesse Applegate as Captain, withthat Fremont crossed the 42nd parallel Levi Scott and David Goff appointedon December 27, 1843 but thought he Lieutenants later when near Tule Lake inwas crossing the "Siera Nevada" Moun- Northern California. Others were: Johntains at the time. He further thought the M. Scott, John Jones, Robert Smith, John"Siera Nevada" Mountains (the Warner Owen, Wm. Sportsman, Samuel H. Good- Range) to be a continuation of the Blue hue, , Moses "Black"Mountains of Northeastern Oregon. Harris, Wm. G. Parker, Benj. (or Bennett) Jesse Applegate, who had been Osborne, Benj. F. Birch (or Burch) and andstillwas a professional engineer, Henry Boygus (Boggs, or Bogus). owned a "Burt's Solar Compass" but The second company came better pre-whether he had it with him on the trip is pared, knowledgeably at least, than the unknown. first: Two separate parties of Califor- They obtained all the informa-nia and Oregon bound travelers were en- tion possible from Hudson's Bay Com- countered, who gave the Applegate com- pany employees and others."Black" pany pertinent information concerning Harris, onof their number, had been atheir proposed route of travel to lay out and may have had some a new emigrant road. first hand knowledge. Furthermore, eleven From the above mentioned maps, of them had justreturned from thereports and information gathered, the Umpqua Valley and knew the route that road-hunters knew the general location of far. the Humboldt River, and that the Califor- Jesse Applegate had in his pos- nia Emigrant Trail led down it and across sessiona map drawn by Peter Skene the Truckee Route into the Central Calif- Ogden which proved to be quite accurate ornia Valley. Their plan was to strike the whenever the party was in territory over Humboldt as near the 42nd parallel as which Ogden had traveled. It was probab-possible and follow up the emigrant road as far eastward as practicable. junction with the South Umpqua at the "Actually, the road-hunters succeededmouth of the canyon. They found that in finding a route, more or less as planned,with some work a road could be hewed except where mountain ranges and otherout bywhich emigrantscould pass physical features forced them to makethrough. detours." Passing on the next day from Cow The Applegate company of 15 men onCreek, several streams and two ranges of horseback, with each man leading a pack hillswere crossed after which Rogue horse, leftRickreall on June 20th (asRiver was reached somewhere about four claimed by Lindsay Applegate many yearsmiles west of present day Grants Pass, or later), or 22nd (as reported by Jesse Ap-some three miles south of Merlin, at what plegate about three weeks later), andlater became Vannoy Ferry. followed nearly the same route southward From this crossing the exploring com- as that by which the first party had re-pany traveled up the south side of Rogue turneduntil the Umpqua Valley wasRiver, past the present towns of Rogue reached. The trail to California was struckRiver and Gold Hill. When opposite the after crossing the Calapooya Mountainslatter place they left the river and passing and followedthereafter,crossingtheWillow Springs, reached Bear Creek, a North Umpqua about two miles belowtributary of Rogue River, just below pres- the later Winchester ferry, or about theent day Phoenix. same distance below the present Interstate Later while traveling up Bear Creek 5, and Old Pacific Highway 99 crossings.they overtook a party of nearly eighty Following up the South Umpqua topeople; Canadians (French and half- its junction with Canyon Creek (at pres-breeds) on their way to California. From ent Canyonville) the company there metthis party they received information con- a group of eight or ten emigrants comingcerning where to separate from the trail from California. This party included aleading south to California. The next day, Mr. Hess and his family, and John Cham- turning eastward up a creek (Emigrant berlin, a son-in-law. They had some cattleCreek), they crossed over the summit of with them and a number of Mexicana range of mountains to the eastward horses. (Greensprings Summit) on June 30th, or The Hess party informed the ApplegateJuly 2nd, depending on whose starting company that it was some ten or moredate,Lindsay or Jesse Applegate's,is miles across the next range of mountainsaccepted. (Cow Creek Mountains) and impassable 35 days later and some 750 to 800 for wagons, thetrail being extremelymiles farther,Jesse Applegate walked, rough and difficult. Further, Indians hadalone and on foot, into Fort Hall. The killed one of their cows at the creek justother members of his company, with the across these mountains. Itis told thatexception of one, were back along the from this happening Cow Creek derivedtrail, probably scattered over a distance its name. Also, while crossing the moun-of from 80 to 100 miles. One member, tain Indians had wounded one of theirHenry Boygus, had left his companions number with an arrow and driven off sev-at Thousand Springs Valley to go on eral of their horses. alone to Fort Hall. He was never heard of The Applegate company then resumedagain and his fate remains unknown to their journey, following up Canyon Creekthis day. about two miles, then detouring up a At Fort Hall and along the trail, Jesse ridge on the west or right and having beenApplegate and three of his lead compan- forewarned, crossed the mountains with-ions succeeded in turning from 90 to 100 out incident. wagons into the new route to the Willa- After reaching Cow Creek the companymette Valley. This meant, at five people lay by while Captain Jesse Applegate,to the wagon, some 450 to 500 souls W.G. Parker, B.F. Burch and Levi Scotttook the new Applegate Trail route. returned to scout out the canyon to its Upon Jesse Applegate's return to his companions and the wagons gathered at The Bannock Indian, when the Thousand Springs Valley, a new companyparty was some milespast Antelope of road workers was formed. The remain-Springs, returned alone to retrieve a lost ing members of the outbound exploringknife, and was never seen again, supposed- company, with the exception of Levily the victim of local Indians. Scott and David Goff who remained to B.F. Burch, who became sick in guide the wagons, plus a few young andthe Fandango Pass area of the Warner unattached men from the various trainsMountains and was compelled to lay over. made up this new company. Lindsay 4 & 5.Wm. G. Parker and Charles Applegate many years later set the num-Putnam, who stayed behind with Burch ber of the company as 20 or 21 mento assist him. The first wagons picked exclusiveofScott and Goff, but thethem up in Fandango Valley on the Goose British botanist Joseph Burke, who wasLake side of Fandango Pass. one of them and wrote a letter from Walla - Sevy, who lagged behind Walla on October 17, 1846 stated thatand became lost in the Devil's Garden "We numbered 24," which seems to bearea west of Goose Lake. He nearly by far the more accurate. starved to death before the first wagons This road-working party turned intoarrived. the Applegate Trail on September 26th. Bennett Osborn, who may have On that same date, the lead wagons thatbeen with the wagons the entire time from would also take that route were slowlyThousand Springs Valley. At least he is winding down the Humboldt River some-reported to have killed a deer just prior where east of present Battle Mountainto Sevy's rescue, and furnished the latter while the last wagons (Thornton) werewith some of the meat. about midway between Elko and Wells, The remainder of the road-working near Deeth. party, upon leaving the , After consulting the several reminis-entered the timbered Cascade Mountains cences and histories that have appearednear Spencer Creek. Here they separated; over the years, we can compile a more orJesse Applegate with at least two com- less accurate list of exactly who consti-panions, Joseph Burke and John Jones, tuted the road working company. Theygoing ahead.Realizing the scarcity of appear to be: Jesse Applegate, Lindsaysupplies and lateness of the season, they Applegate, John M. Scott, William Kuir-intended to and did secure at least limited quendall, J.M. Weir, Thomas Powers, supplies for the following famished emi- Burges, ---- Shaw, ------Carnahan, Alfredgrants. Stewart, ---- Miller, Joseph Burke, John Of the remaining 14 or less road work- Owen, B.F. Burch,Wm. G. Parker,ers, probably now under the command of "Black" Harris, Charles Putnam, BennettLindsay Applegate,littleshould have Osborn, ---- Sevy, and a Bannock Indianbeen expected of that few men in regard who had joined on at Fort Hall. to building or preparing a roadway. They It will be noted that this company ac- too were weary, worn out and running tually numbered 24 members. However,extremely low on supplies. seven of them dropped out for various Joseph Burke recorded that the first reasons along the way, leaving but 17segment of road viewers arrived at Jesse men to bear the brunt of locating, clear-Applegate's home near the Rickreall River ing and building such sections as theyon September 26th. Lindsay Applegate could with their limited means. recorded that he, Lindsay, arrived home The seven who dropped out can be ac- on October 3rd (possibly the 5th). counted for thusly: Evidently little time was lost in send- 1. John Owen stayed with the firsting relief back to the beleagured emi- wagons, probablyto accompanyhis grants. John Jones and a Tom Smith from mother. We know he was in the IndianOregon City, driving a few head of beef fight near present Winnemucca, comingcattle, met the first emigrants on Cow back from the lead wagons. Creek somewhere between October 21st and 25th. Later still, Jones met the last One other trail blazer and road worker, emigrants (Thornton) near Grants PassMoses "Black" Harris, returned with sup- on what Thornton recorded as Octoberplies for the emigrants. Also several other 18th. However, Thornton's dates wereseparate parties traveled southward with seemingly as inaccurate as some of hissupplies and probably saved many lives. other recordings, so the date can only beTheir story will come later, as we progress approximated, but should be at least twowith the now suffering emigrants slowly and probably three days later thh Jones'pushing northward toward the Willamette meeting with the lead emigrants orr CowValley. Creek. CHAPTER III TRAVELERS WEST OF THE CASCADES The foilwing chapter is devoted togate Trail. That year's emigration was met documented historical records of travelat Smith's Fork on Bear River. Only one "West of the Cascades" for 1846 andof the party of young men, B.F. Burch, later years over the original Oregon-Calif-returned to Oregon over the old trail with ornia Trail and the Applegate Trail whichScott. succeeded it. The year 1846 witnessed Bancroft's states the opening of the trail as a southernthere were 45 wagons that took the Ap- emigrant wagon road into the Willametteplegate Trail this year, which meant that Valley, at that time the principal settle-about three trains of approximately 15 ment in the Oregon Country. wagons each followed the route this year. The Applegate Trail "West of the Cas-One of the trains included Lester G. cades" was laid out from north (nearHulin (a later resident of the Eugene area) Dallas) to south (near Ashland) by theour only diarist for 1847. He turned into road-hunting party of fifteen men hereto-the trail from the Humboldt River on fore described. Then in late September itSeptember 17th. Another, the Thomas was traveled by the returning road-work-Smith train of 11 wagons, and 15 men ing party, but this time divided into twoand boys "from 15 years old and upward" groups, the first of at least three men andarrived in the Willamette Valley on Octo- the second of 14 or less men, followed atber 24th, a week ahead of the Hulin train. intervals by some 90 to 100 wagons (a The William Wiggins train of 17 wag- few of which may have been abandonedons, originally California bound, seems to priorto entry intothe Rogue Riverhave been the first train by a week to Valley), or 450 to 500 persons, whichturn into the Applegate Trail. Sidetracked made up this year's migration. somewhere in the Goose Lake-Pitt River From reminiscences of two of thecountry, they became the last train to road-hunters, we further know that atenter Oregon in 1847. Whether this train least two other parties traveled the Ore-was included in Bancroft's 45 total or not gon-California Trail that year. One, theis unknown. Hess party emigrating from California and Late in the season, on December 8th, met by the outgoing road-hunters nearthe took place near present Canyonville, the other a Califor-present Walla Walla, Washington. The en- nia bound party of French Canadianstire populace of the Pacific Northwest overtaken near Bear Creek in the presentwas thrown into near panic, fearing a Medford-Ashland vicinity. If other travel- concentrated Indian uprising. Governor ers used the trail this year, and they wellAbernathy of Oregon asked Jesse Apple- may have, it seems to be unrecorded. gate to lead a party to California seeking The following year, 1847, Levi Scott,their cooperation and help against the accompanied by B.F. Burch, "Black"Indians. Applegate, however, declined but Harris and "a party of about thirty youngrecommended Levi Scott for the task, at men going back to the states," made theirthe same time agreeing to accompany the way south and eastward over the Apple-party. Sixteen men therefore left the set-

10 tiements early in January, 1848. They were left in Salem and only a few women were Levi Scott, Jesse Applegate, Jamesand children at Oregon City. Pack trains A. Robinson, William J.J. Scott, John M.via the old Oregon-California Trail were Scott, Elzy C. Dice, George Hibler, Jamesmainly used at first, but later a group of Lemon, William Gilliam, Joseph Waldo, 150 men with 46 wagons under the lead- James Campbell, Walter Monteith, Thomas ership of Peter H. Burnett and guided by Monteith, James Field, Solomon Tetherow Thomas McKay back-tracked the Apple- and John Minto. gateTrailto Tule Lake, where they The group reached the summit of theturned south to find the new Lassen Trail where snow over fivein the process of being opened into the feet in depth was encountered. The party . divided, half under Applegate attempted Following this train by a few days was to push ahead on hastily constructedone of about 20 wagons and 25 men from snow shoes, the others to return home the Puget Sound country in Washington. with the livestock. Those going aheadThis latter train reached the Sacramento were: Jesse Applegate, Robinson, Lemon,Valley with the stragglers of the Oregon W. Monteith, T. Monteith, Fields, Tethe-train, that train having been delayed by row, and Minto. Some of them, however, assisting in opening up the gave out and they too were forced to re-last portion of what was to become known turn, the entire party reuniting at Can- as the Lassen Trail. yonville. The party was absent from their There was no emigration from the homes about 30 days. states to Oregon in 1848 over the Apple- Levi Scott moved to the Umpqua later gate Trail. in the spring of 1848, taking up a land 1849 witnessed the greatest use in any claim on a small creek in the Yoncallayear of the eastern half of the Applegate Valley. He did not improve his claimTrail from the Humboldt River to Goose much, but spent most of his time withLake. That portion "West of the Cas- his two sons, John and William, who hadcades" undoubtedly saw a large amount taken up claims nearby on Creek, aof traffic, by packers at least, both north few miles from their father's place, andand south as indicated by innumerable near the southern base of the Calapooyareferences by diarists and pioneer remin- mountains. iscences. Levi Scott's place was then the farth- There was, however, one known party est habitation south in Oregon, and waswith wagons that traveled south from the supposed to be 14 days travel on horse-Willamette Valley in late May. This party back from the first place in California, the consisted of some 30 men with supplies P.B. Reading Rancho near present dayfor the Mounted Riflemen under Col. Cottonwood, California. Loring from Missouri, headed for the At about the same time, the Isaac Oregon Country. The party was under the Pettijohn and pack horse party ofcommand of a Lt. Hawkins, guided by 23 men made their way south and alongJoel Palmer, with Levi Scott as scout. It the Applegate Trail, returning tothe consisted of 14 wagons, 7 soldiers as es- states during the latter half of May. cort, and 60 head of beef cattle with The news of the discovery of gold in about six drovers or extra men who seem California did not reach Oregon untilto have included Billy Martin, Rogers, around July 31st, when the little schoon- Suttle and Garrison. Events of the jour- er Honolulu arrived in Portland. It wasney included the desertion of five of the confirmed August 9th by the arrival ofsoldiers who headed for the gold fields of another ship, and a few days later by theCalifornia and the loss of six head of the tidings brought overland from Californiabeef cattle in the Umpqua canyon. by men on horseback seeking provisions. At about this same time Jesse Apple- It is said that "two thirds," or "aboutgate, his brother Charles, Rev. Glen 0. 2,000 persons" left Oregon for the goldBurnett (This man may have been George mines. Further that only three old menWilliam, brother of Peter H.), and several

11 others formeda joint stock companystant who returned in 1852 to settle near with the intention of building a fort forCentral Point. Hills first came west over their protection, taking up lands for farms,this route in 1847 as a member of the raising stock and digging gold in theLester G. Hulin train. Rogue River Valley. Having secured men Governor Joseph Lane of Oregon is re- of as many mechanical trades as possible,ported (History of Siskiyou County) to they loaded up their wagons and set outhave taken one wagon southward over to carry their project into execution.the Applegate Trail in 1850, eventually Levi Scott was then living directly onabandoningit somewhere near present the route they must travel so they sentWeed or Mount Shasta City (Wagon Val- him a letter outlining their plans, andley?). No other record to confirm the urging him to join them, and take part inpresence of a wagon in this party of pros- the enterprise. They traveled slowly andpectors has been found. were delayed in reaching his place until Also, for the third straight year, there some time after they had expected tois no record of any emigrant train travel- arrive. ing from the states into Oregon over the A short time after reaching the placeApplegate Trail in 1850. of their destination they disagreed, broke It will now be seen that the Applegate up their organization, and came back,Trail "West of the Cascades" was used in some of them settling in the Umpqua1848 principally as a one-way route, south Valley, and some returning to the Willa-to the newly discovered gold fields of mette. California. Other sources have recorded that an By 1849 this southward rush began to Applegate party penetrated as far southexpand northwestward beyond Old Shasta in 1849 as Strawberry Valley, northwestCity into Northwestern California. It now of Mount Shasta City at a place ever sincebecame a two-way route between Oregon known as Wagon Valley. However, this isand California over which hundreds and questionable. Here they were supposed tolater thousands of people traveled up to have left four wagons and returned tothe present time. By 1850 this new ex- Oregon with two. It is a known fact, how-pansion had reached and followed along ever,that Jesse, Charles and probablythe Trinity, Salmon and Klamath Rivers Lindsay Applegate settled in the Yoncallato the mouth of Scott River. This expan- Valley that same season, during the sum-sion created a need for provisions and mer of 1849. supplies which at first was partially sup- Again we have no records of any emi-plied by pack trains from the Willamette grant trains from the states entering Ore-Valley farms and the City of Portland. gon over the Applegate Trail for theLater, after the founding of Scottsburg, second straight year. a new pack-trail was constructed in 1851 Early in the spring of 1850 a road wasup the Umpqua River to the Winchester opened from the Yoncalla Country, downcommunity where the Oregon-California the Umpqua River to the head of tide-(Applegate) Trail was intersected, thus water and the townsite of Scottsburg laidtransforming Scottsburg into the main out. The first steamer entered the Ump-port of entry for all freight to the extreme qua River on August 3, 1850 and a newNorthern California mines. freight route was soon opened to pack Gold was discovered in March, 1851 at trains headed for the Northern CaliforniaYreka by an Oregonian, Abraham Thomp- mining districts. son, to set off another frenzied . During this year one small party of un-It was not until December, however, that known number with saddle and packtwo Scottsburg packers discovered gold at horses traveled to the states from theRich Gulch in the Rogue River Valley, WillametteValleyover the Applegatewhich resulted in the founding of Jack- Trail. Two of its members were Corneliussonville. In passing,itis interesting to Joel Hills, who returned westward overnote that Bancroft's History of Oregon II the same route in 1851, and Isaac Con-states that: "In February, 1852 one Sykes

12 who worked on the place of A.A. Skinner locations of the Applegate Trail should (about midway between present Centralprobably begin with 1851 when Major Point and Medford) found gold on Jack-Phil Kearny traveled slowly southward son Creek about on the west line of thefrom Vancouver, examining the country present town of Jacksonville, and soonfor military stationsites, and the best after two Packers, Cluggage and Poole***route for a military road which should discovered Rich Gulch, half a mile northavoid the Umpqua Canyon. (south?) of Sykes' discovery." Further, On arriving at Yoncalla, Kearny con- Levi Scott claims that in April, 1852 gold sulted with Jesse Applegate, who agreed was discovered by James Poole, Jamesto assist him only in case of a better route Cluggage, and James Skinner (plus Jamesthan the canyon road being discovered, Wilson, which lineup of names suggestedthat Kearny would have his men put it in that the place be called "Jim-town") incondition to be traveled by the emigra- the head of a ravine running into Jacksontion that year. Kearny consented, and a Creek. detachment of 28 men, under Lt. William- Late May and early June witnessedson, accompanied by Levi Scott and Jesse Major Phil Kearny traveling south alongApplegate, began the reconnaissance about the Applegate Trail, moving the remnants,June 10th. It is reported that it was with about 200 men, of the Mounted Riflemenalmost satisfaction that Scott and Apple- from Oregon to California. He wished togate found that no better route than the establish a new route from Canyonville toone they opened in 1846 could be dis- Table Rock in the Rogue River Valleycovered, since it removed the reproach of which would by-pass the difficult Canyontheir enemies that they were to blame for Creek route. No practical route could benot finding a better one at that time. No found so he abandoned his wagons andother has been found, even down to the crossed the South Umpqua fifteen milespresent time, Interstate 5 following the upstream from Canyonville with 100 m&n, same route.It must be reported that to eventually arrive at Rogue River someApplegate himself expected at the time, 14 miles above Table Rock. The remain- when with Kearny, to be able to get a ing 100 men with the baggage on pack-road saving 40 miles of travel. horses continued southward along the By 1852 emigrants arriving from the Applegate Trail. Kearny had several en- states in the Rogue River Valley found it counters with the Indians, in one of which unnecessary to proceed farther,fertile Captain James Stuart was killed. Thefarm lands, and nearby rich mining dist- Governor Joseph Lane party coming fromricts offered everything desired. In fact Oregon, having earlier returned from theirno records have been located to date of gold prospecting junket to California, wasany emigrants from across the plains met along Rogue River and the two groups traveling farther north to settle in the combined for a short time. Major Kearny,Umpqua and Willamette Valleys after this after quelling the Indians for the time be- date. There are, however, numerous rec- ing at least, continued on with his forcesords of emigrants arriving in the Rogue into California. River Valley, both north and south via Emigrant-wise we have the record ofthe Applegate Trail, to settle there perm- but one known train entering Oregonanently in 1852 and succeeding years. from the states that traveled the Apple- Perhaps the History of Jackson Coun- gate Trail in 1851. It was the Hills-Riddlety, published in 1884, best explained the train of twelve wagons, which arrived atsituation when they recorded " ***it was present Canyonvifie on September 20th.in this year (1852) that the tide of hu- Some, including the Riddle family atmanity, previously setting out for the least, settled near there, while the HillsWifiamette Valley and mines of California, and Briggs families continued on into thewas in some nasure diverted to Rogue head of the Willamette Valley, settlingRiver Valley, whereby many settlers were near Eugene-Springfield. added to those who came from other por- A history of the many changes and re- tions of the Pacific slope."

13 Early in 1853 the town of CrescentfromCamp Stuart toMyrtle Creek, City, California was founded to soon be-$20,000 was secured, the act finally being come the chief supply point for the goldsigned by President Fillmore on January camps of and Northern7, 1853. $5,000 of this amount was spent California. New pack trails were estab-on the Alvord-Applegate survey made lished eastward to the Trinity and Salmonduring the fall of 1853. The primary pur- Rivermines. The Klamath River andpose was to find a passage avoiding the Yreka mines were reached over the oldUmpqua Canyon. Failing in this, Alvord Kelsey Trail, with the Jacksonville anddecided to spend the remainder of the Waldo mines served over the Cold Springsappropriationin improvingthe road Pack Trail. through the canyon and the nearby Grave Scottsburg, once the metropolis ofCreek hills. Construction contracts were Southern Oregon, declined steadily aftermade with the Applegate brothers, Jesse Crescent City was founded and ceased toand Lindsay, and with Jesse Roberts, all exist in 1861 when flood waters washedlocal residents. away the main part of town. The 33rd Congress approved an addi- The total emigration from the statestional $20,000 to extend the first road to enter the Rogue River Valley over thefrom Myrtle Creek to Scottsburg. The sur- Applegate Trail was 159 wagons, 400vey was made by a Lieutenant Withers men, 120 women, 170 children, 2,600and the road completed by the early sum- loose cattle, 1,300 sheep, 140 loose horsesmer of 1855. It was then reported suit- and 40 mules. ablefor transportation of government Road alignments and changes contin-supplies by wagon to Forts Lane and ued in 1852 and 1853. The founding ofJones, via Scottsburg. Jacksonville in 1852 saw the road bend to Due to delays in Congress, additional the westward to pass through that placefunds were not made available for South- as a trading center instead of followingern Oregon roads until 1858 to be under down Bear Creek to the Medford-Centralthe supervision of Colonel Joseph Hooker Point vicinity. The establishment of Fortwith the labor to be done under hired Lane on September 28, 1853 broughthelp, and the contracts to civilians for new roads into existence, especially onebridge building. connecting the fort with Jacksonville and There were from 20 to 40 workers the main freight road leading from a pointemployed on Umpqua Canyon, 11 miles opposite Gold Hill to the fort itself. in length. "The road through this canyon, Another change, or rather a new cut-the artery of travel between the Pacific off was established at some unknown date,Northwest and California, had remained but before the fall of 1853. Its northernthrough the years impracticable for wag- terminus branched from the Applegateons and unfavorable for horsemen. Much Trail near present Hugo to pass north ofof the route was relocated; vertical walls Grants much the same as does presentwere blasted away to make a roadbed at Interstate 5, to cross Rogue River "threeplaces where the banks of the stream had miles west of the mouth of Evans Creek."previously served. After the removal of The Major Alvord survey of 1853 madelarge mud deposits that had accumulated by Jesse Applegate shows this crossingduring the rainy season, permanent im- but the Ives and Hyde General Land Of-provement of the drainage of the lower fice survey of 1854-5 shows the ferry butcanyon was provided by culverts." one mile below the mouth of Evans Creek. The Southern Oregon road as complet- Commencing with the first legislatureed by Hooker was reported to be 16' of , requests had beenwide with the timber cleared from 30 to made to the for60 feet in width (However, this statement Federal aid to improve transportationseems to be exaggeratedEditor). It was routes. Finally, after Delegate Ex-Gover-further reported practicable for a six nor Joseph Lane asked approval by theteam. 32nd Congress of appropriations for Ore- Early in June, 1854 a series of twelve gon roads, one of which was the roadcontracts to separate individuals were let 14 by the Postmaster General for carryinges ran daily between these two points. mail between Sacramento and Portland, Then after ten years of negotiations some by boat, some by horse coaches,and reorganizations, the Oregon railroad but mostly by horseback. in 1882 commenced building southward Late in June, 1854 stage coaches wereagain, and on August 3 1st, the last stage placed in service between Jacksonville anddeparted from Roseburg. Progressively the Yreka. To get these coaches on the line,stage changed its terminal with the rail- they were shipped north from San Fran-road as the latter progressed southward cisco to Portland by boat, then conveyeduntil Ashland was reached April 19, 1884. southward approximately 300 miles over-Here the railroad remained for over three land to Jacksonville. years before connecting with the Califor- The first daily mail was taken over thenit. railroad building in from the south. Siskiyous on horseback about July1, The latter railroad did not complete 1854 by Williamson Lycona Smith, whoits first leg of 38'/2 miles up the Sacramen- carried the mail between Yreka and Can-to River Canyon above Redding to Delta yonvile. until August 30, 1884, which then be- Although somewhat removed from thecame the new terminus. Finally on De- Applegate Trail, the first freight by wag-cember 17, 1887 the "Last Spike Cere- ons delivered from the Sacramento Valleymony" was held at Ashland and the to Yreka took place in the years 1855California and Oregon Stages ceased to and 1856. The road led from Red Bluff,run. the head of traffic on the Sac- Agitation for a hard surface Pacific ramento River, over the Sierras near Mt.Highway through Oregon began in 1911 Lassen, via the Lockhart road throughby the Pacific Highway Association. Legis- Fall River Valley to Yreka. lative action followed in 1917 and 1919 By September 30,1857 the Coldwith state funds supplemented by county Springs Pack Trail from Crescent City wasfunds in a program of localized point-to replaced by a pioneer wagon road overpoint construction. Washington and Calif- which most of the freight to the Rogueornia instituted similar programs. River Valley was hauled thereafter. Tn- Existing wagon roads were abandoned weekly stages were soon placed on thein many areas, and a relocated through run between Crescent City and Jackson-route established. Many portions were ville. completed by 1922, but not until October After much shifting about and route26, 1923 was completion celebrated in changes the first through stages betweenOlympia, Washington. At completion the Sacramento and Portland began runningPacific Highway traversed three countries, over the Trinity route about Septemberthe United States and parts of Canada and 15, 1861. Freight, however, was still beingMexico, and was the longest paved high- hauled over the Road throughway in the world. Fall River Valley. Yet when completedthisthrough After a great deal of legal difficulties,route still followed down Canyon Creek, we know the road wasthe infamous Umpqua Canyon of emi- in use by June 17, 1870, at least. Stagesgrant days and many other sections of the and all freight were transferred to thisoriginal Applegate Trail. Later still, the route by June 1, 1871. Neither the Pittcompleted Interstate Highway 5 utilized or Trinity roads were ever used again asthe same route, only much modernized. through routes north and south. Following a construction program of By the first of September, 1872 stagesseveral years, a Westside Willamette Valley were connecting with the Oregon railroadPacific Highway from Portland through (building south from Portland) at Rose-Newberg,Lafayette,McMinnville and burg in the north, and with the CaliforniaCorvallis to Junction City was completed railroad (building north from Lincoln) atand opened to traffic in October, 1924. Redding in the south. Thereafter, for theThus the last portion of the Applegate next ten years the two railroads remainedTrail was replaced by a paved highway stationary and the California-Oregon stag-leading from to Canada. This lat- 15 ter route included both existing countycovering identical distances from a point roads and new sections of the originala few miles south of Ashland to Eugene, survey. from which point we have only the ex- [EDITOR'S NOTE: As in Part I, eachtracts from the Pringle diary to La Creole of the chapters following in Part II will(Rickreall) near present Dallas, Oregon. begin with continuing extracts from theThis has been done the better to present diaries of Virgil K. Pringle, 1846 andthe history of the trail with maps and Lester G. Hulin, 1847. They are supple-pictures.Hereafter,all notes made by mented by the Journal of Thomas Holtthis writer, clarifying documents used, and many reminiscences. The Pringle andand correlating them with present day Hulin diaries are divided into seven chap-place names, will be enclosed in brackets ters, with a map accompanying each,Editor.]

CHAPTER IV EMIGRANT RESERVOIR (KLAMATH JUNCTION) TO GOLD HILL In preparing the text for the latteralongthe upper reaches of Emigrant chapters of Part I, Applegate Trail, thisCreek, the latter probably referred to by writer quoted the diaries of Virgil K.Pringle on October 19th, when but three Pringle, 1846, and Lester G. Hulin, 1847.miles were traveled. Quotations from the John Beeson and There is another 1846 trail diary, the Velina A. Williams diaries were also used,journal of J. Quinn Thornton, published the latter being supplemented by thein in 1849 under the title of rather extensive reminiscences of Orson"Oregon and California." According to it, A. Stearns. Thornton and his wife left Independence, In addition to the above mentionedMissouri on May 12, 1846 (Virgil K. sources we have several reminiscences ofPringle left Independence five days earlier others who traveled the Applegate Trailin the afternoon of May 7th). Thornton in 1846 and later. One of these, the un-traveled much of the way in close prox- published reminiscences of Levi Scott,imity to the Donner-Reed party, separat- this writer regards as being on a par withing from them to take Sublette's Cut-off any day to day diary or journal recording.and the Oregon Trail while they turned Scott made five trips over the Applegateinto Hasting's Cut-off across the Great Trail during emigrant days; settled along-Salt Lake Desert and thence over the side it; and ranged cattle from the Yon-Truckee Route of the California Trail. calla Country as far south as the Rogue Near Fort Hall, Thornton met Jesse River Valley. He also had the advantageApplegate and decided to take the newly of returning over that portion "West oflocated trail to Oregon, turning from the the Cascades" after some settlement hadmain Oregon Trail at Raft River in present been made, and also more modern daySouthern Idaho. Thornton kept a day to names had been applied to the various lo-day journal, consisting of three volumes, calities and physical features. the second ending at Thousand Springs Scott remembered the great toil andValley in present Northeastern Nevada on suffering of the emigrants after crossingAugust 2 1st. To this point his dates and Klamath River, many being sick and un-itinerary probably were correct. But his able to leave their wagons. In places itthird volume, supposedly begun at this took two or three, and sometimes moreplace,was later lostin the Umpqua persons with ropes attached to the upperMountains, stolen he claimed by a "white sides of the wagons to keep them fromsavage." The first two volumes were later upsetting. This probably occurred at therecovered, but he was compelled to re- Jenny and Keene Creek wagon slides andwrite the third from memory at some

16 later unknown date after his arrival in theMountains, probably between Parker Wilamette Valley. Mountain and the Green Springs Summit, Therefore this third volume, the oneThornton lost two of his oxen and was we most need, becomes a story of inac-compelled to leave his wagon near the curatedates,misplaced locations andlatter place. Camp was reached somewhere events, and a diatribe against the Willa-on the headwaters of Emigrant Creek at mette Valleyroad-hunters andJesseabout 10 o'clock the night of October Applegate in particular. With Thornton's11th, but possibly a few days later. education and literary abilityit could The next day (October 12th, still ac- have become an invaluable contributioncording to Thornton's memory) he bor- to Applegate Trail history. rowed enough oxen so that added to his Bancroft's History of Oregon I, page own, he was able to bring his wagon into 562 states: "There is a great effort appar-camp, thus becoming the last wagon to ent in this portion of Thornton's narrativeenter Rogue River Valley. Death of a to. make it appear that his misfortunes,third oxen at this time forced him to and the sufferings of the other belatedabandon most of his outfit. travellers, were owing to the misrepre- Thornton later wrote: "October 12, sentationsof theexplorers, when heSabbath. * * * the company, in a very classes them with the 'outlaws and ban-obliging manner, proposed to remain in ditti who during many years infested thecamp during the day, for the purpose of reefs, where they often contrivedenabling me to make some arrangements so as to mislead vessels as to wreck them,for having my little store of food and when without scruple or ceremony, they,clothing taken forward. Mr. Hail agreed under various pretences, could commenceto carry my provisions for two-fifths of their work of pillage.' As this was writtenmy breadstuff, and some articles of after he had been a year in Oregon andclothing. Josiah Morin contracted to carry learned the high character of the menthe remainder of my clothing in one of who composed the expedition besideshis wagons, in consideration of my giving seeing a consideraIle immigration arrivehim the exclusive ownership of John and in the Willamette Valley by the southernNig, and their yoke and chain, and the route the year following his passage overuse, into the settlements, of all the other it, in the month of September, in goodoxen that still survived, and were fit for health and condition, the vituperativeservice. I gave to Major Goff, a medicine censure indulged in by Mr. Thornton is, chest, a set of cut-glass bottles filled with to say the least, in bad taste. * * * medicine for the journey, a cast-steel Mrs. Mathew P. (Lucy Henderson)spade which I had carried up to this time Deady, 11 years of age in 1846 when shefor the purpose of working the road traveled the Applegate Trail with her par-where necessary [Thornton was always ents, has the following to say regarding J.near the rear, so it is wondered how much Quinn Thornton: "Mr. Thornton was ahe ever used the spade when others had lawyer, a sort of dreamer, not very well,opened the way], and a number of other very irritable and peevish. I lived witharticles, as a compensation for returning them later, when I was going to school atwith me to the place where I had left the Oregon City, so I learned what a peculiarwagon. Having been one of the instru- man he was. He was the type of man thatments used by Applegate in misleading always blames someone else for misfor-the emigrants, it was his duty to have tunes he himself has caused. * * * rendered me assistance without compen- Disregarding for now any inaccuraciessation. [It may be wondered what Gaff of Thornton's itinerary, there yet remainswas to gain by donating his time and ef- much of value in his reminiscent journalforts in opening the Southern Routej. and parts will be given from time to timeBut the conduct of some of these road- hereafter. hunters has given them an infamous not- Somewhere in crossing the Cascadeoriety."

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PlO LJJPLl,PM Pr A present day stile located alongside the Applegate Trail, beyond the oak tree, on the upper watershed of Emigrant Creek. The first oak timber encountered by the emi- grants was in this vicinity.(Photo by Heen Heifrich)

19 On October13, Thornton in partwere excellent, and the face of nature wrote: " * * * We resumed our journey, appeared fully as interesting as yesterday. but so rapidly did my strength forsake Followed down the Rogue river about 12 me during the day, that ere its close Imiles and camped [Somewhere in the found it would be impossible for me to Phoenix-Medford area]. drive my team, even should it not be Sun. 16th. Our cattle have good grass, taken from me by some new misfortune. but do not appear to eat early while the My wagon, my large oiled tent, cookingfrost and dew is on, so we concluded to utensils, even a small rocking chair, which travel while the dew was on and stop I had retained up to this time, for theabout 9 o'clock, but not finding a con- comfort and convenience of my wife, invenient place, we were obliged to travel addition to much else, had been left in until11 A.M.; then we took breakfast the morning. * * * [Somewhere in the general area of Gold Hill]. [This days recordings will be con- tinued in the next chapterEditor.]

With everyone now in the Rogue River Valley, we will again take up the travels of the emigrants as they continue alongJESSE APPLEGATE'S WAYBILL, 1848 the Applegate Trail "West of the Cas- cades" by diaries, reminiscences and other TheOregon Spectator,April 6, 1848: recordings: Headwaters of Rogue river [To School House Creek from Round Prairie]... 8 miles. Down South Fork [Bear Creek] 20 miles. Rogue river [Near Gold Hill] VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 15 miles.

Monday, October 12Travel 15 miles of very pretty mountain country and camp in afineprairie without water After entering Rogue River Valley Levi [Approximately two miles west of Cen-Scottatthe head of the emigration tral Point, Oregon near the junction offound "plenty of water and grass, most of Taylor and Old Stage Roads]. 15 miles.the time." Continuing down Emigrant Tuesday, October 13Move about oneand Bear Creeks some distance they at miletoaspring[Willow Springs onlast turned across a "broad valley and present Old Stage Road] and spend thecamped at Willow Springs." The next day day to explore ahead, the road not beingthey reached Rogue River 'lust above marked. 1 mile. Point of Rocks." Wednesday, October 14 - Travel 12 In 1847 Scott was employed by some miles of good road and camp on Rogueof the Willamette Valley settlers to meet River [Probably northwest of Foots'that year's emigration and lead them into Creek and near the Fort Birdseye Way-Oregon via the Applegate Trail. Outbound side, southeast of the town of Roguehe was accompanied by about 30 young River], a beautiful, pure stream aboutmen going back to the states. fifty yards wide, but shut in by moun- This party had no difficulties until tains. 12 miles. they reached Bear Creek near present Phoenix. There they were attacked by Indians who continued their harassment allday. During the night some of the LESTER G. HULIN, 1847 horses and mules were shot with arrows, but were saved by extraction of the arrows. [September] S. 15th. The roads today After breakfast tile next morning they

20 Looking east toward Rock Point on Rogue River opposite Gold Hill. Part of the moun- tain was excavated for the passage of present Interstate 5 Highway. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

Looking east at Old Highway 99 Bridge over Rogue River west of Gold Hill. The Applegate Trail has been replaced by the present paved Lampman Road shown be- neath Old Highway 99. This was an extremely difficult stretch of trail, due to Indian attacks and the rocky terrain.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

21 started on but after traveling a short dis-Cemetery. Here are located the graves of tance sent five men back to their last members of several old time families, the night's camp to see if any Indians had ap- Hills,Barrons, Gibbs and Dunns. The peared. Several were already there, one oldest grave located was that of "Nancy on horseback. The men charged and fired Hill,wife, September 19, 1852." The upon the Indians who immediately fledcemetery site seems to have been origin- into the bushes. The one on horsebackally given by Isaac and Elizabeth Hill as a fled to the creek, but unable to cross,free burial site for 1853 Indian War Vet- abandoned the horse and fled into theerans, seven graves still being in evidence woods. The horse proved to be one stolenbut there may have been more. the year before farther down Rogue River The emigrant trail itself was probably from -- Miller, one of the Willamettedown the bottoms of Hill Creek under Valley road-working party, and was now present Emigrant Reservoir waters, leav- a member of Scott's party headed east-ing the reservoir site to pass beneath the ward. Needless to say, Miller was glad tohighwater dam across Old Pacific High- recover his horse. way 99. According to the General Land Thornton in turn made no recordingsOffice survey of Ives and Hyde dated of any kind for October 14th, throughAugust 18, 1854 the trail led north on the the 17th (His dates), except "we contin-east side of Neil Creek to near the south- ued our traveling over a generally rough,east corner of Oak Knoll Golf Course barren, and inhospitable country, havingwhere it crossed Neil Creek to the west init agreat many hostile savages, side in approximately the same location until*** as does the present highway. Continuing Some at least, or all of this "inhospit-north along the highway the old trail able country" was the main Rogue Riverstayed beneath the table land to follow Valley, situated in which are the presentwhat is now East Main Street to cross prosperouscities of Ashland,Talent,Ashland Creek near the intersection of B Phoenix, Medford, Central Point, Goldand Water Streets near the "Olde Mill" on Hill, Rogue River and Grants Pass. the corner of the California Pacific Util- ities Company property and pass near the area of the Newberry Orchards building. From the crossing of Ashland Creek RETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAILthe trail kept northwestward on higher "WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975ground, passing just to the north of Old The basing point for the start of re-Highway 99 railroad underpass. From tracing the second portion of the Apple-there it passed to the south, or back of gate Trail is the Junction of Highway 66Jackson Hot Springs and on to the rock and Old Pacific Highway 99 located ap-point one-fourth mile or so westward. proximately 7.5 miles south of the cityHere the 1854 survey maps show the center of Ashland. A site formerly calledtrailcrossing Bear Creek, then called Klamath Junction and located approxi-Stewart's Creek, to the north side, to mately a little less than a mile north ofavoid the rock ledge and immediately the present junction is at times coveredre-crossing back after passing the rock by the Emigrant Reservoir waters. On thepoint. hillside southeast of Old Klamath Junc- Thereafter the ApplegateTrailfol- tion can still be seen the remains of Oldlowed a route much the same as Old High- Highway 66 and the older yet Southernway 99 through Talent, Phoenix and Med- Oregon Wagon Road. The original Apple-ford (on Riverside Avenue) to, or very gate Trail probably closely approximatednear the junction of present Interstate 5 the latter. and Crater Lake Highway 62. Continuing Continuing northward from the Oldnorthwestward thetrailapproximated Kiamath Junction, we next arriveinTable Rock Road to its junction with slightly over one-fourth mile at the HillMirriman where it headed more to the

22 westward, passing near the present How-River opposite Gold Hill. ard School and the junction of Beau Road It will be noted that the original Apple- and present U.S. 99, near the Boise-Cas-gate Trail followed down the left bank of cade Lumber Company office. For theBear Creek to a point in present north next two miles we must improvise. TheMedford at the Crater Lake and Inter- 1854 survey shows the existing road orstate 5 junction. Then it headed straight trail leading due west but slightly south ofacross the valley toward a notch in the Beall Road. This, however, seems to havehills at Willow Springs. This route was been caused by two land claims of earlypossible because the emigrant trains al- settlers, which caused the road to divergeways arrived in that neighborhood during fromitsoriginallineleading straightthe fall of the year when streams were at across the valley from Howard School totheir lowest, and the boggy condition of Willow Springs. the valley was practically non-existant. Continuing onward, the original Ap-Later, with the discovery of gold in Cal- plegateTrail closely approximated theifornia, and laterstillat Jacksonville, "Old Stage Road" that runs betweentraffic took place throughout the year. Jacksonville and Gold Hill, if not actuallyTherefore the route moved to higher and coinciding with it at times, from the westdrier ground and through the supply cen- end of Taylor Road north to Interstateter of Jacksonville, to later become the 5 on the south or left bank of Rogue"Old Stage Road" of today.

CHAPTER V GOLD HILL TO AZALEA VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 daughter, who died yesterday evening, age about 14 years. [Camp near the cov- Thursday, October 15Move down theered bridge over Grave Creek in Sunny river 10 miles and camp [About one-halfValley on Old Highway 99]. 1 mile. mile west of So. 6th Street, in Grants Tuesday, October 20Our route con- Pass, near the Fairgrounds]. Plenty oftinuesover spurs of mountains, with Indians about, but none came near. Losesteep pulls and thick timber and under- some cattle by them. 10 miles. brush [Camp was probably on Cow Creek Friday, October 16Cross Rogue Rivernear Glendale Junction of the present about 4 miles from last camp. Ford good.highway system, some two miles east of Camp on the right bank [At site of laterthe town of Glendale. Pringle's mileage Fort Vannoy, approximately four andseems to be slightly in error] one-half miles west, or downstream from Wednesday,October 21The time Central Grants Pass]. from this to Monday, 25th we were oc- Saturday, October 17Travel 8 miles,cupied in making 5 miles to the foot of road good and a good camp which is notUmpqua Mountain and working the road common, the country being mostly burntthrough the pass, which is nearly impas- [Camp approximately two miles north ofsable * * * [Continued to next chapter. Merlin on Jump Off Joe Creek nearCamp was probably at or near the present Russell Road bridge]. 8-2,218 milesAzalea Off-Ramp, exit 88, of Interstate 5 [From Independence]. at the mouth of the canyon leading up to Sunday, October 18Have some badthe summit of Canyon Creek Pass]. road that takes till after dark to go 6 miles [Up and over Sexton Mountain. Camp near junction of Rat and Grave Creeks]. 6 miles. LESTER G. HULIN, 1847 Monday, October 19Move one mile to a camp, having none last night, and * * * and moved on again about 1 P.M. spentthe day burying Mr. Crowley's on the river bank, with plenty of Indians

23 24

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Yitliey ¼ ,,1- PI4 C.. C. I.. t I" 1l1tp,. , t0 Sex Vu,Ifey "y ye cjr.0 y I vv who brought us fish to trade. Distance to- As the lead wagons made their way day about 15 miles. [Camp in the generaldown Rogue River one of their camp sites Foots Creek area seems to have been in the Foots Creek [September] M. 18th. Followed downarea. Here, while eating breakfast, Medders the river (with some of our too neighbor-Vanderpool lost a fine band of sheep he ly Indians) about 12 miles and camped.had driven safely across the plains, moun- [Camp approximately one mile east ortains and deserts. According to Levi Scott upstream from So.7th Street acrossthe herd numbered "about fifty head." Rogue River inGrants Pass]. Rogue River Indians drove them into a T. 18th. In about 1 mile we crossed nearby canyon and the emigrants were the river and leftit after following itcompelled to go on without them. about 5 miles in all; passed among the In the same general vicinity, after camp bluffs and camped after a distance of was broken, a cow was reported missing, about 10 miles. Some of the Indians are probably the property of Virgil K. Pringle. yet following us. Their room is betterSeveral men went back to search for the than their company. [It thus appears that missing cow and found the Indians butch- the 1847 ford was very near but east of ering her. They made their escape, but the present Grants Pass. It is known for sure emigrants were compelled to return to that by 1853 there was a ford or ferry in the train empty-handed. use about one mile above Grants Pass as According to Levi Scott the ford where indicated by old surveys. More on thisthe emigrants crossed Rogue River was later. Camp was probably near present"deep and rough," and there were not Merlin]. many places where it could be forded W.19th. Upon leaving camp soon safely even at its lowest stage. came to a fine creek [Jump Off Joe Reporting the same event, Tolbert Creek], then bad roads entered (rough, Carter some 52 years later wrote: "A Mr. hilly and sidling), but by night we were in Vanderpool, a former mountaineer, had a valley with good camping ground atbrought 25 head of sheep safely across hand [On Grave Creek in Sunny Valley];the plains. These sheep were entrusted to distance 8 miles. the care of one of his sons, but the old Thurs. 20th. Today we had bad roadsgentleman arose early that morning and and reached a good camping place at dark turned the sheep out to graze until break- [On Cow Creek, some two miles east of fast.The herd being nearcamp, he Glendale] : distance 9 miles. thought it would be safe to let them graze F. 21. We today made about 8 milestill he could eat breakfast. After break- farther and camped at the entrance of thefast he went to bring the sheep, but, to Umpqua Mts [Near present Azalea at thehis surprise and disappointment, they had mouth of the canyon leading north from disappeared in a canyon near at hand Cow Creek Valley]. During the day we [Probably Foots Creek Canyon], with followed a creek and passed several fine moccasin tracks following. He hurried pieces of grass. back to camp and quickly reported. Your scribe quickly volunteered to follow and bring back the herd. Several other simple- JESSE APPLEGATE'S WAYBILL, 1848 tons also offered their services, but, for- tunately for us, he was a man of sense Umpqua Mountain [From Gold Hill] and experience with Indians, and would 35 miles. not allow us to enter the canyon on any First 14 miles, good road, next 14, such foolhardy expedition. * * * we ford- very hilly, last 7 up the valley of a creek,ed the river, a swift, ugly stream with the good road [These directions also seem towater in the wagon beds in some places, indicate the ford of Rogue River east of but all got safely over * * Mrs. E.B. (Currier) Foster also remem- Grants Pass]. bered the incident: "A Vanderpool boy drove a band of sheep through to Goose

25 FORTVANNOY FORD CROSS ROGUE RIYER.I/4 MILE SOUTHOF THIS POINT. WAS USED BY HUOSONSRAY COMPANY TRAPPERS AS EARLY As1827- BY THE U.S. NAVY WILKES LXPEDITION,1841- BY PIONEERs ON APPLE- GATE TRAIL. ML tONC BUILTFIRST PERMANENT NON-INDIAN DWELLING IN THE ROGUE VALLEY NEAR THE FORD IN 1850. AND STARTED FERRY SERVICE. JAMES YANNOY AND JAMES TUFFS BOUGHT FERRY IN 1951. VANNOY TOOK UP DONATION LAND CLAIM IN $853. IN 1853. FOUR INDIANS ACCUSD or KILLING SEVEN MINERS ON GALICE CREEK WERETRIED. CON- VICTED AND HANGED WITHIN 30MINUTES. IN 1855. A CRUDE FORT WAS BUILTSERVING AS HO FOR OREGON VOLUNTEERSDURING INDIAN WAR. HISTORICAL SOCIETY JOSEPHINE COUNTY STATE HIGHW P1 CO3PtRA'II'WITH OREGflN '

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The Fort Vannoy marker is approximately four and one-half miles west of Grants Pass on Lower River Road running parallel to Rogue River on the north side. It is self explanatory. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

26 This sawmill located northeast of Merlin across the Southern Pacific Railroad tracks, sits astraddle the Applegate Trail which circles behind the point of timber beyond the sawmill. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

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The Haines Family marker is located on the county road north across the Southern Pacific Railroad from Merlin. The apple trees behind the marker still produce apples annually. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

27 Lake [Actually to Rogue River at Footsthetime theemigrants reached Cow Creek west of Gold Hill], when he wentCreek, the men were pretty well exhaust- to dinner there was not an Indian in sight.ed. The next day they moved slowly up While he was eating the Indians drovethe creek. Then on the following morning every sheep away. Never found one ofJack Jones and Tom Smith of Oregon them. * * * City came into their camp. J. Quinn Thornton, after a silence of Both Pringle and Scott were at or near three days by his own recording, butthe head of the 1846 emigration at all more correctly about seven, began histimes, therefore their recordings place the recollections again by writing on OctoberJones-Smith party as arriving at Upper 18th: Cow Creek about October 22nd or 23rd. "Sabbath. We met Messrs. Brown,From this point it would have taken the Allen and Jones, and some two or threeJones-Smith party and the others [Brown other persons. The first two had comeand Allen] at least two days to arrive at out to the wilderness for the purpose ofthe south bank of Rogue River where meeting their friends in the company ofThornton was camped [Probably three or Messrs. Brown and Allen [Seniors], whofour miles west of Grants Pass on the have already been mentioned as havingsouth bank of Rogue River]. The date retreated back,inhaste,to Ogden'stherefore should more correctly be Octo- [Humboldt] River, when they at lengthber 24th, instead of the 18th as recorded became convinced of Applegate's want ofby Thornton, when the party arrived veracity respecti,ng the road. These per-with the two beef cattle for relief of the sons, it will be remembered, finally pro- tag-end emigrant wagons. It will be re- ceeded into California, where they arrivedmembered that Jones was one of the orig- safely and in season. The first two namedinal Applegate road-hunting party who gentlemen who met us were the sons ofhad returned to the Willamette Valley these emigrants. The last mentioned gent-with Jesse Applegate in the first detach- leman, Mr. John Jones, brought two largement of road-builders. fat cattle, for the relief of the almost There is more recorded evidence that starving emigrants. These he killed andindicates further that Thornton's dates sold to the emigrants, after driving themwere incorrect. Virgil Pringle wrote in several hundred miles through the wilder-part (See ahead): "Started through [Can- ness, at a price that did not exceed thatyon Creek Canyon] on Monday [October which he had paid for them in the settle-26th] * * 'I The wet sçason commenced ments. * * * the second day [October 27th] after we "Mr. Jones, knowing that the emigrantsstarted through the mountains." would be in great danger of perishing for This storm seems to have been quite want of food, had gone forward into thegeneral over the entire Pacific Coast. Far settlements for beef-cattle, with which toto the south, the , with meet them. He had left some with the for-whom Thornton had traveled in close ward company, and had now broughtproximity for a time, fearing a storm two to us." approaching, had left the present Reno [Editor's Notes on Thornton's datesvicinity on October 23rd, and were near follow]: in the Sierras by the 28th. It will be remembered that on OctoberThere was by then six inches of snow on 2 1st, Virgil Pringle recorded: "The timethe ground and from two to five feet at from this to Monday, 25th we were oc-Donner Summit. cupied in making 5 miles to the foot of In passing it may be of interest to re- Umpqua Mountain and working the roadlate that the original Donner party which through the pass [Five miles up Cowleft the consisted Creek to the vicinity of Azalea Exit 88of 90 persons. Of these, six died along of Interstate 5, then working up Passthe way before reaching ; Creek to the pass itself] * * 22 died of starvation at the several snowed Next, as remembered by Levi Scott, byin camps near Donner Lake; and 14 died

28 while trying to make their way to thetrain which may have been responsible settlements in the Sacramento Valley. for the Indians approaching closely to the Cannibalism was resorted to by some of creeping train. the 48 survivors. Hidden by thick brush and timber, Edwin Bryant, an 1846 diarist who they sent a shower of arrows at both ani- traveledthe CaliforniaTrail, reported mals and humans. An oxe in Pringle's that the rains began at Sutter's Fort, inteam was shot and later died. Arrows Sacramento, on the night of October 28th. whizzed past the beleagured emigrants Far to the north, at Oregon City on but no one was injured. Three dogs of the the Willamette, on October 28th, George train were "hissed" on the concealed Gary wrote: " * * * it commenced raining Indians and a fierce struggle ensued which as though winter is about to set in." could be distinctly heard by the emigrants. These various contemporary reportsThe Indians were dispersed and one of tend todisprove Thornton's date of thedogs severely but notmortally October 21st (See ahead) when he claimed wounded. * * * the long dreaded rainy season After the Crowleygirl'sdeath the commenced." train again joined and camped for the Correlating the above information, it night. The next morning they moved on therefore appears that Thornton among about one mile, crossed the main creek the rear emigrants, crossed Rogue River [Grave Creek] and stopped to bury the (At Vannoy Ferry) on October 25th, laid dead girl, Mrs. Tabitha Brown giving the over on the 26th, and continued onwardupper side-boards of her wagon for a October 27th, when the rains probably coffin. hit him near present Merlin. He was then The sod, which had been carefully some 30 very difficult miles behind the removed, was replaced over the dirt filled lead wagons. grave, and asan added measure, the [End of Editor's Notes on Thornton's wagons which had been corralled, and all Dates.] the stock driven over it, but to no avail. The leademigrantscrossed RogueThe Indians found it, dug up the corpse, River at what later became Vannoy Ferry, robbed it of allits burial clothing and some four and one-half miles west, or left the body prey to wild animals. Travel- downstream from Grants Pass on October ers later found the opened grave with 16, while those in the rear probably bones and hair scattered about, gathered crossed on October 25th as previously them up and reburied them. Ever since noted. the little stream has been known as Grave After crossing Rogue River, the emi- Creek. grants came to a stretch of country before Talbot Carter also wrote: "Soon a reaching Louse Creek, where the road- wagon appeared, with weeping and lamen- workers had done nothing so were brought tation among its occupants. It was soon to a halt. The horse trail being too roughlearned that an estimable young lady by for wagons, Levi Scott went ahead and the name of Crowley, who had been eventually found a place that by cutting afflicted with typhoid fever, had died * * * through thick brush for about 200 yards When morning came we found we they could pass with the wagons. Thewere a few hundred yards from a small same situation also faced the emigrants stream * * * Two years afterward I passed upon reaching Jump Off Joe Creek andthat way, enroute to the California gold after passing over Sexton Mountain to mines and, sorrowful to relate, the Indians descend to Rat Creek. had exhumed the body * * * [Later] the As the train reached Grave Creek a mother came to where I was stopping, * Miss Leland Crowley died. The wagon in * to inquire if the reports were true. which she lay stopped and those behind ' * * I told her it was true, * * * could not pass, and those ahead kept Rev. A.E. Garrison, many years later, traveling, not knowing what had hap-recalled: "Drove the Indians back at ford pened. Thus a breach occurred in the of Rogue river, later near a pretty branch,

29 The Applegate Trail descended the north slopes of Sexton Mountain down Rat Creek (to left of 1-5 in foreground) to Grave Creek in Sunny Valley (center distance). (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

Covered bridge across Grave Creek on Old Highway 99. The Applegate Trail crossed at approximately this same location. Martha Leland Crowley was buried beyond the bridge near the telephone pole visible through the bridge opening. (Photo by Helen Heifrich) -- - -' .- HISTORICAL-i 'IMAR ONEOFOREGO WS FEW R E$AINiNtCOE RE)UIIGES.R54IU- IUSJORTH Of THE 'RIBGE.COVERD BY THEPRESERT ROADWAY IS THE CRAVE OF 14 YEAR OLDMARINA LELA$O CR0 WLEYSA MEMBER OF THE FIRST WAGON IRAI ru ii,IER OR[CUIY THE APPLEGATE TRAIL III1845. THIS TRAGIC INCIDENT CAVE THE CREEK ITS $E. FIVE 1MDIAS. KILLED HERE IN 1853. WERE BURIED INTHE SAME GRAVE. NORTH VES1' OF THE BRIDGE ARE THEUNMARKED CRAVES OF SOLDIERS KILLED IN THE 1855 101AM VARRATTLE OF HUNGRY HILL. FORT LELAND. SOUTH OF THESEGRAVE.IS MARkED ONçYJY THE WELL VHICISEWVED THISSTOCADE. NORTIfEA Sf OF THEBRlQlStH!!HARKNESS AND TWOCQOD STAGE tOUSE BUILT IN185tT1E 1880 GUt$TIEGIS1bER INCLUDED THE lAMES Of PRESIDENT RUTHERFORD B. Ill YES AID GENERAL WN. 1. SHERMAN. JOSEPHINE COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

This marker is at the south approach to the covered bridge and to the left (west) side of Old Highway 99. (Photo by Helen Helfrich) my old friend John D. Woods steppedterests in Oregon City and was opposed down to a branch a little after dark to getto any new emigrant route into Oregon apail of water but quickly returnedthat might divert trade or business from pretty badly frightened,stating as hethat place. He informed the eager emi- went to dip his water zip-zip went somegrants that they could go but six miles arrows by his head * * * we now havefarther (to the upper end of Canyon two trains and we moved on in this wayCreek) with their wagons. until we came to the Canon, camping The emigrants became quite despond- each night close together * * ent and could only be persuaded to travel Mrs. Mathew P. Deady, as told to Fredbut two to three miles for the next two or Lockley, also remembered: "One of thethree days. At that time they arrived at emigrants in our party was named Crow- the dreaded beginning of "Umpqua Can- ley. He had lost several members of hisyon" where they could go no farther family by death while crossing the plains,without first making some effort to build and at one of our camps another membera road of sorts through the gorge. of the family, a daughter, Martha Leland J. Quinn Thornton next takes up the Crowley, died. Theodore Prater and Mrs.travels of the rear-most emigrants: "Octo- Rachel Challiner and some others fromber 19 [Probably October 25th as pre- our helped bury her. Theyviously explained]. Messrs. Brown and buried her beneath a big pine tree on theAllen succeeded in inducing some of our banks ofa small stream which theyparty to return upon our back trail for the christened Grave Creek, and which stillpurpose of meeting their friends and rela- bears that name. The oxen were corralledtives. It will be remembered that at that over her grave so the Indians would nottime we did not know anything certainly dig her up to get her clothing. Colonelof them." Nesmith saw the grave in 1848 and said it Returning on Thornton's back trail we had been opened and that a number offind that somewhere around September human bones were scattered about. The20th, while encamped at Black Rock in bones were reinterred and the grave againNorthwestern Nevada he wrote: "The filled in. Mrs. Crowley, the girl's mother,reader will remember that when we were later married a Mr. Fulkerson of Polkabout to leave Ogden's [The Humboldtj County. My husband, Judge Deady, usedRiver, we saw a large cloud of dust in the often to stop at the Bates ,distance, which we believed at the time on Grave Creek, near where Miss Crowleyhad been made by either a company of was buried. It was called the Bates House,pursuingIndians, or by the emigrant but was later renamed the Grave Creekcompany of Messrs. [Elam] Brown and Tavern. In 1 854 the territorial legislature[David]Allen.Ihave since been in changed the name of the Grave Creek toCalifornia, where I saw Mr. Brown, who Leland Creek and the hotel's name wasinformed me that they entered upon this changed to the Leland House." cut-off, and sent forward one of their Upon leaving Grave Creek, accordingcompany forty five miles, on horseback, to Levi Scott, it took three days of "hardand that they were met by him after the labor" for the lead wagons to reach andwagons had traveled thirty miles, without travel eight miles up Cow Creek. Campfinding water, as they had been told. was established there to give the cattle aTheir messenger stated, upon meeting chance to graze and the men a little rest. them,that he had been fifteen miles The next morning, probably Octoberfarther forward, without finding water. 22nd or 23rd, the John Jones-Tom SmithIt was finally deemed hazardous to rely party was met. Jones, as we know, hadany longer upon the word of this un- been a member of the road-hunters andtrustworthy guide [JesseApplegate]. Jesse Applegate returning party. He wasThey therefore turned about, and made a now returning with aid for the strugglinghasty retreatto Ogden's River, where emigrants. Tom Smith had business in-they remained for a brief period to re-

32 Wolf Creek Tavern, still standing, as it appeared in Octobe, 1975. It is across Wolf Creek to the left off 1-5. The tavern was a famous stopping place during Stage Coach days. We understand this is to become an Oregon State Historical Landmark. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

1-5 off-ramp (right) No. 88, leading to Azalea at the mouth of the canyon from Cow Creek Valley to the dreaded Canyon Creek Canyon. Emigrants camped here before' embarking into the dreaded pass.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

33 cruit their cattle, after which they pro- "October 27. The cold rains having ceeded to California. [The mileage anddriven Mrs. Thornton and myself from facts seem to be quite inaccurate, since ifour bed of blankets upon the ground un- themessenger traveledthedistance der the open sky; and Messrs. Brown, claimed, why did he not overtake theAllen and Jones from theirs [What had slow moving Thornton party?] ." become of Thomas Smith we do not We now continue Thornton's recollec-know. However, John Jones seems to be tions, commencing on the south bank ofheaded for the Willamette Valley where Rogue River, at later Vannoy Ferry: "Weby December 4th it was generally under- resumed our journey toward the settle-stood he had again started out on his ments, accompanied by Labin Morin, andsecond relief trip with 1500 pounds of a son of Goff's [Would these two menflour and some beef cattle. It still remains have been members of the Jones-Smithunknown whether he actually did start relief party? Also, from later information,or not]. * * * Early in the morning we it appears that Jones and probably Smithresumed our journey, and traveled through were nearby, or had continued on witha dense forest of pines and firs, afid down Brown and Allen in case more needy emi-a hillside * *'i'.Late in the afternoon we grants were encountered.] In the forenoonencamped on a little prairie, near a small we crossed Rogue River, which we foundstream of water. to be a bold and clear stream, three feet "October 28. We resumed our journey, deep, about five hundred feet wide, andand after traveling all day through the flowing rapidly over a bottom coveredrain and mud, and over a broken country with large boulders. * * * of alternate prairie and timber lands, en- "October 20 [Probably October 26 ascamped near the foot of the upper or previously explained]. We remained inrather Umpqua mountains." camp, only changing [Campsites?] * * * "October 21 [Probably October 27th as previously explained]. We resumed our journey over a wooden and broken coun- try. * * * soon after the long dreadedRETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAIL rainy season commenced. This brought"WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975 with it a new and, if possible, more bitter denunciation of Applegate. We continued Start at the Old Stage Road overpass our painful and exhausting journey, halfon Interstate 5, southeast of Gold Hill. starved, wet and cold.[This day's travel,Turn onto the north, or outer highway camp, etc., and the 22nd to 25th inclusive(Lampman Road) between Interstate 5 have all been left out by Thornton. Noand Rogue River, headed west. Approxi- further attempt will be made to correctmately the first one and one-half miles Thornton's dates. Instead we will recordboth the Freeway and Lampman Road his notes with his own dates, whetherhave erasedalltraces of the original right or wrong.] Applegate Trail. Then for approximately "October 26. This day Messrs. Brownone mile, Lampman Road probably lies and Allen and party returned to us, in-atop the exact route of the emigrant trail forming us that they had proceeded as far aswell as the later California-Oregon as the Siskia [Green Springs] mountains,Stage Road, especially in passing beneath without learning anything of the fate ofthe Old Highway 99 Bridge west of Gold their friends. I succeeded in hiring Mr.Hill and around Rock Point. Allen to carry into the settlements a From Rock Point to that portion of traveling bag filled with clothing, whichGrants Pass (Fruitdale) south of Rogue would probably otherwise have fallen intoRiver, Old 99 very closely approximates the possession of one who hung about thethe original trail. In between these two camp, and seemed to hold himself inpoints are a number of historical sites: readiness to appropriate any property hefirst, Foots Creek, a probable emigrant could lay his hands on. campsite; second, Old Fort Birdseye Way-

34 side Park where settlers congregated dur- near Phoenix. Leading from the north it ing the Indian War of 1855; third, theturned from the Applegate Trail in Pleas- Coyote Evans Wayside Park immediatelyant Valley to follow a route much the east of the bridge across Rogue River tosame as Interstate 5 now does in by-pass- the town of Rogue River, where an earlying Grants Pass, crossing Rogue River day saddle and pack-horse ford was locat-somewhere upstream. ed; fourth, approximately one mile below From the Vannoy Ferrysite,the the mouth of Evans Creek there was a Applegate Trail headed almost due north ferry in operation at least as early as 1855; along the west side of Vannoy Creek to a fifth, by 1851 the Joel Perkins ferry waspoint on Louse Creek one mile east of in operation one mile or so east of Grants Merlin. Then following down Louse Creek Pass; and sixth, the 1847 emigration, as to near its junction with Jump Off Joe reported by Lester G. Hulin, forded Rogue Creek, the trail turned up the latter. New River in the same neighborhood, or northroads have been and are being built to of the Fruitdale School. new subdivisions so that it is impossible From eastern Grants Pass the trail very in this limited space to say which to closely approximates South East Park travelto anywhere closely follow the Street bordering Riverside Park, to contin- trail. However, near the Vannoy school, ue parallel to the river and north of the turn into Azalea Road and after numerous Josephine County Fairgrounds. Still con-intersections with new roads Merlin can tinuing parallel with the south bank of be reached. Rogue River, the trail approximates a There, cross the Southern Pacific Rail- routeclosely following present Southroad to pass just west of a large sawmill. River Road nearly tothe Ed Fritsch Here also is a large historical marker (See Ranch (R.R. Box 4914). The first emi- photo for inscription). Continue north- grant ford seems to have been almost due easterly, up Jump Off Joe Creek to Rus- north of the Fritsch ranch buildings. No sell Road which crosses the creek at ap- roads lead to the ford and later ferry site; proximately the same location as did the it now being on private land. emigrant trail. The latter followed up a Return to Grants Pass and cross Rogue left branch of Jump Off Joe Creek para- River, then turn west onto Lower Riverlleling but east of Russell Road. Continue Road. Approximately four and one halfnortheasterly to a junction with Old 99, miles west of South Seventh Street in then follow it through Pleasant Valley to Grants Pass you will arrive at the Fort the Hugo turn-off and continue along Vannoy marker. See photo for inscription. that road through a pass in some low hills The 1846 emigration crossed here, In this pass you can occasionally see signs while the 1847 emigration, as previously of the old trail. Once over this summit stated, seems to have crossed one milethe trail followed up Bummer Creek to east of Grants Pass, then continued down the pass on Sexton Mountain, later trav- the north bank to the 1846 ford site on a eled by the California-Oregon Stage Road, route close to Lower River Road. Which Old 99 and present Interstate 5. route was used during gold rush days to Passing over the summit, the trail then California is unknown, but probably both.led down Rat Creek, west of Interstate 5, Ferries appear to have been establishedto a junction with Grave Creek. From at both locations by 1850 and 1851 re-there, the trail turned up Grave Creek spectively. about one mile to a point now occupied The Vannoy Ferry saw extensive useby a covered bridge, one of but a few after the discovery of gold at Sailor Dig- still in existance, on Old 99. Here the emi- gings (Waldo) and neighboring localities. grants forded and here the Crowley girl The Perkins Ferry or one farther east is was buried. A historical marker has been indicated by the Major B. Alford map, placed at the southern end of the bridge surveyed and drawn by Jesse Applegate(See photo). in the fall of 1853. This Military Road After leaving Grave Creek the trail and led from Myrtle Creek to Camp Stuart Old 99 continued north up Salmon Creek.

35 Old 99 kept to the eastern foothills andhalf,to continue through Stage Road the trail kept up the bottom betweenPass and down to Cow Creek near Glen- present Interstate 5 and Old 99. A pass indale Junction. the hills south of Smith Hill was crossed Turn into the Glendale Junction road in the same location as have all past andwhich becomes Old 99 and follow that present roads. The trail then led to thefor the next seven or eight miles to Azalea west of Interstate 5 until Smith Hill Sum-Overpass, or exit 88. According to the mit is reached, where all roads again coin- 1855 General Land Office Survey, the cide. road then in existance corresponds closely From this summit the trail kept downto old 99, both following up the north the bottom of a draw west of Interstateside of Cow Creek. Where the original 5 to Wolf Creek at the location of latertrail lay, on the south side, the north Wolf Creek Tavern. About one mile eastside, or both, of Cow Creek, we cannot of this point the trail turned to the leftsay definitely. Probably that 1855 survey, (north), through the hairpin curve of theand Old 99 is the closest we can ever Southern Pacific Railroad and through aapproximate the original Applegate Trail gap to the north of a round butte west offor this eight miles. Extensive farming, the mouth of Stage Road Gulch. Inter-highways, and creekchannelchanges state 5 follows up this gulch and is re-caused by high waters have all contributed joined by the trail within a mile and one-to its disappearance.

CHAPTER VI AZALEA TO NORTH ROSEBURG

VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 with wagons. 3 miles. Monday, November 2No rain today * * * Started through [Canyon Creekbut partially cloudy. Make 5 miles [To a Canyon] on Monday morning [Octobersite probably a short distance south of 26th] and reached the opposite plain [AtMyrtle Creek]. the present town of Canyonville] on Fri- Tuesday, November 3Clear in the day night [October 29th] after a seriesmorning. Rains hard from ten in the of hardships, break-downs and being con-morning to midnight. Make 7 miles [To stantly wet and laboring hard and veryRound Prairie]. Octavius goes ahead for little to eat, the provisions being exhaust-provisions to the other side of the Callipoa ed in the whole company. We ate ourMountains, forty miles distance. 7 miles. last the evening we got through. The wet[Octavius was Virgil K. Pringle's youngest season commenced the second day [Oc-son, age14years. He probably went tober 27th] after we started through theahead with the John Jones, Tom Smith, mountains and continued until the firstBrown and Allen party heretofore men- of November, which was a partially fairtioned.He undoubtedly followed the day. The distance through:16 miles.Hudson's Bay Company fur trail to Fort There is great loss of property and suffer-Umpqua situated near present Elkton at ing, no bread, live altogether on beef.the Junction of Elk Creek and the Ump- Leave one wagon [This seems to havequa River. He left Round Prairie on No- belonged to Mrs. Tabitha Brown, thevember 3rd, and rejoinedhisparents mother of Mrs. [Pherne] Pringle, wife ofagain on November 9th (see ahead) at a Virgil K.]. point on Sutherlin Creek near Wilbur. Sunday, November 1Moved 3 milesHis absence of only six days and Fort [To the first ford of the South UmpquaUmpqua the only place available where River where the Riddle road turns leftin such a short time supplies of any kind from Interstate 5]. Find our oxen verycould be secured should verify this state- stiff and sore from scrambling over rocksmenti.

36 F,rr.ftCrc.elr

Myrtle Creelr

j4 .tIv1Pc% £In1py

anycn /ri1er-sfatc-5,0/I 9q a,,J Fqt 7?,,1coi',dde dow1Ca.,y,,, -e4. C4n70v7 Looking northerly down Canyon Creek Canyon. Practically all traces of the original creek bed, Applegate Trail and Old Highway 99 have been destroyed by the construc- tion of present 1-5.(Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Looking north down 1-5 to off-ramp No. 95 at the mouth of the West Fork of Canyon Creek (left beyond the approaching mobile home) three miles south of Canyonville. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

38 :

OREGMONHSTGRY- S CNYON CREEK I k - LST'IHITETRAVtttRS FNTHIS . t:'rlr' L1 T) A PANY TRAPPEPS GOING TO CALl- ORNIAD4Z& RAIL, B1R6F ONPfi®VISIOUAt GVERN- MEICT FtLLOWED THIS tFILE FOR MI.IRCT ROUTE UPRER FROM FYR'r: HAJ4 IDABO,IN 1&6. IMMRMNTS USEDTHJS PASSI DECADE FQLLOW- ING. 'AC1S FEM SCtTTSBUR 'CAR*IEOS4J1?PLIES SOUTHWARD R MINLRS A SETTLtRS. TH1 WAS THE: MAIN ROAOFSTAQ&SAj!P FFI431T WAGO A13RM CALI:FORNIA Thr TiL WAS1 TOAD QF.1883-1884. =r

This marker is located to the right (east) side of 1-5 near off-ramp No. 95. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

39 Wednesday, November 4Make 4 miles and cross a steep hill [Roberts Mountain]. Oxen very weak. The new grass is noJESSE APPLEGATE'S WAYBILL, 1848 support. Very rainy. 4 miles [To a point Down South fork to crossing of Ump- in the foothills east of the drive-in theatrequa river [From Azalea to one mile above south of Roseburg]. the forks of the North and South Umpqua Thursday, November 5-3 miles today.Rivers] 30 miles. Rains all day. Pherne and the girls ob- liged to walk the oxen so weak [Camp at Roseburgin the Deer Creek-Newton Creek The better to understand the difficult- vicinity. For the past three days Pringleies of the lead wagons (perhaps consider- seems to have been underestimating hisably less than half of the entire train), mileage]. 3-2,274 miles [From Indepen-who opened the road through the "Ump- dence, Missouri] qua Mountains" we must combine two men's recordings: Pringle's contemporary diary for the correct dates and locations; and Levi Scott's reminiscences for the LESTER G. HULIN, 1847 description of the route as traveled by the few lead wagons. [September] S. 22. Today we entered Referring back to Pringle's recordings the worst roads [Canyon Creek Canyon] we find that from October 21st through we ever traveled and made only 6 milesthe 25th, they made some five miles of by dark. wagon travel up Cow Creek, and worked Sun. 23. Continued over these horribleat opening a road, three miles in length, roads and dark found some or most of thefrom present Azalea to the summit of company in the timber. Only 5 wagonsCanyon Creek Pass. Further, according to got through; the rest had to keep theirPringle, they started through on October animals over another night without feed.25th, with the first wagons reaching the Distance today, 5 miles. mouth of Canyon Creek, at Canyonville, M. 24. This morning after 1% milesprobably on the night of the 29th, total toiling over these horrible roads they alldistance 16 miles. reached the valley after upsets, break- Levi Scott, following the meeting with downs and losses of various kinds; 2½the John Jones-Tom Smith party, accom- miles today [To north citylimits ofpanied by four men made a reconnaissance Canyonville]. through "Umpqua Canyon." After a care- T.25th.This morning we movedful examination of the pass they decided about 2 miles down the creek (or onethat with a few days work by all available branch of the Umpqua river) and campedmen the canyon could be put into condi- for the day to wait for those who weretionsothat wagons could be taken back after lost cattle, broken wagons &c.through.Next, every ablebodied man [Camped before crossing the first ford ofthat could be spared went to work. Fairly the South Umpqua]. (Last night waswell rested they kept doggedly to the rainy, but today is clear.) task and worked through the canyon in W. 26th. Last night was another show-four days. ery night, but today is clear; the rainy There was a swift, rocky creek that season appears to have commenced [Onemuch of the way had to be followed in month earlier than in 1846]. Today wethe stream bed. High perpendicular walls made about 14 miles down the river [Toof rock left little room if any to avoid Round Prairie perhaps, as Hulin seems tothe channel of the creek. So steep were be over estimating his mileage for this andthe banks and the channel of the stream the next day's travel]. that in many places the wagons had to be T. 27th. Continued down the Umpqualet down by ropes. In places logs, brush, valley * * * [To be continued in nextstones and earth were thrown in to bridge chapter]. over boulders and holes.

40 At first there was but little water inon their backs. the upper reaches of the creek but after The John Newton family lost their the rainy season began those emigrants inwagon and most of their team in the the rear suffered greatly from high waterscanyon going forward as best they could, inthetorrent-like, boulder blockedthe wife riding a saddle mare. The others, stream. Newton, his brother Thomas, and an The wagons were compelled to stoporphan boy, Sutton Caldwell (or Burns) continually while bad spots were repairedwalked, packing their tent, bedding and or fixed. An average of perhaps threescanty provisions on their remaining oxen. miles per day at the most was made by By the time Deer Creek, in present the lead wagons and some in the rear wereRoseburg, was reached Newton was sick as much as a week getting through thatand the provisions were exhausted. Thom- terrible ten mile stretch. Look at it todayas went back to find some friends and see as you travel Interstate 5 which has com-if he could secure provisions and medi- pletely replaced the original stream bedcine for his brother. In the meantime two and you cannot imagine the conditionsIndians came to Newton lying sick in his once encountered. tent, and upon promises to secure fresh As soon as the wagons started into themeat were given a loaded gun, soon there- canyon, the company, as a company,after disappearing in the woods. seemed tofall apart.It appeared that After dark they returned, shot Newton everyone thought it was every man forwith his own gun, struck him with an himself. The lead teams in a few placesaxe, nearly severing a leg, and then taking found a little browse, while some of thethe gun and the mare, disappeared. Morn- men took their teams out to grass in theing at last arrived and Newton died of his evening, and returned to their wagons inwounds. The boy ran back along the trail the morning. If a wagon stopped, all thosesome five miles to seek aid from following behind were compelled to stop, since itemigrants while Mrs. Newton, terrified was impossible to pass. that the Indians might return, remained A young man, the son of Alonzowith her dead husband. Wood, died and was buried in the canyon. Newton's mare and gun were recovered However, not before the wagon carryingfrom the Indians the next summer, the the corpse upset in a deep hole of water.chief of the tribe giving them up on de- A hive of bees, belonging to the fathermand. However, he claimed the murder- and carried on the rear of the wagon,ers were renegades of the Umpqua Indians was submerged, and all the bees drowned.and had fled to the Klamath Indians. At another place someone set fire to aFrom this event Newton Creek, immed- dead fir tree which dropped firebrandsiately west of the Veterans Hospital in upon following wagons. A burning coalRoseburg, received its name. dropped unnoticed on the neck of a sick Talbot Carter, driving a wagon carry- child of Isaac Zumwalt. Too weak to re-ing a widow and two small children, wrote move the fire, the little boy was severelyof this section of the trail: "We encount- burned and badly scarred for life. ered nothing of special note until we Levi Scott left the canyon with aboutreached the entrance of the Umpqua ten wagons and continued down theCanyon. Before starting into that seeming- South Umpqua. Others acted like a brok-ly impassable barrier it was decided to en army, going forward in groups of threelay over a day and give our lean, jaded or four wagons, occasionally one wagonoxen a rest, * * * traveling alone. Some had broken their "The first day we made the ascent, wagons in the canyon, leaving them be-and camped with the oxen chained to hind. Some lost so much of their teamstrees. * * * Next day we crossed a plateau they were compelled to abandon theirof some length, and from that we passed wagons. Some packed possessions ondown the steepest hill, or rather bank, horses, on mules, on oxen, on cows, andthat wagons were ever known to pass. some went forward on foot with packsBear in mind that we were in a jungle of

41 42 Approaching Canyonville down 1-5 from the south. At this point the emigrant trail issued from the Canyon Creek passage into open country at the mouth or north end of Canyon Creek Canyon.(Photo by Helen Helfrich) trees and bushes, and could only see arough-locked all the wagon wheels, and short distance in front or behind, so thatto make sure, a man got on each hind if you had to stop for hours you couldwheel. Half way down this precipice a have no knowledge as to the cause of de-ledge of rock projected just perceivable to tention. My team was about the middlethe first that passed down, but so many of the train of 50 wagons, so when thiswagons and so much stock had passed, bank was encountered it took a long time forcing the dirt below from the rock, to get down. As each wagon would passthere was at the time this wagon reached down, those behind would move forward it a perpendicular fall of almost two feet. the length of a team and wagon. FinallyWith all precautions arranged, and the I came to the jump-down, * * * The wag-men on the hind wheels, we made the on in front of me had in it a man who hadstart, and got along all right until we en- been sick 20 days with typhoid fever, countered the rock, when from some un- without medicine to relieve his suffering;accountable cause, the front wheels rose in fact he seemed at death's door, as heup and went off the rock and the hind could not raise his hand to his head, andwheels rose up and went crashing down could not speak above a whisper. * * * We the bank. Of course, the men on the

43 wheels let go. The wagon struck bottombirth to a child, but the condition of the side up, smashed the wagon bows withroad was so terrible that in a few hours such a crash that no one could supposethe infant died. The mother soon fol- anything could live underneath. * * * Welowed, owing to the treatment she neces- all rushed down and removed the wagonsarily had to undergo. * * * box and bedding, and strange to say, we "After laying over two or three days found our fellow-traveler still alive. * * * preparations were made to resume our The man recovered and lived. journey, and, being out of all danger of * * * Much of the route was in thesavage Indians, our large caravan broke creek. When night came on we bivouackedinto small caravans for the sake of con- in this lonely, dismal canyon, the poorvenience. The little party that I was in oxen chained to trees, this making theconsisted of eight wagons, and as before third night without food of any kind.stated, but little provisions remained in * * But on we go, pell mell down this our party, and no prospective opportunity creek, shut in on each side with precip-for procuring any." itous mountains, the sides of which were Following are parts extracted from the covered with dense timber, with a dense"Life and Labour of Reverend A.E. Garri- growth of underbrush along the creek,son," privately printed in 1943: " * * and a narrow, winding path cut out, fol-we now have two trains and we moved on lowing the tortuous meanderings of thein this way until we came to the Canon, stream. But fortunately about 3 o'clockcoming each night close together * * * We the third day we emerged from the moun-now enter the great canon, the evening tain prison. * * * the party that had pre-before however my brother Joseph met ceeded us to open up the way and makeme, he and Enoch [Garrison] came to it passable, had nothing at this same placeOregon in 1843. He brought to my relief [to eat], only what they killed in theprovisions, a yoke of fresh fat cattle and shape of game, so there was nothing toa number of pack horses. I pray Almighty be had in that line. * * * God that I may never forget the kindness "The last day's march out of the can-of this brother, when morning came all yon was the worst for the destruction ofhands at an early hour were ready for the property. In fact, everything that couldCanon, my brother attached his fresh possibly be dispensed with was thrownoxen to one of my wagons but said it was away. The route was strewn with articles,impossible for the wagons to go through all valuable to the owners, if they couldthe canon. I put two yoke of my weak have been preserved. Extra wagons, var-oxen to the other wagon and after sending ious kinds of tools, farm implements,the loose cattle all in advance we started. were abandoned, the owners being glad toThe canon was not more than twenty escape with their lives. One Mr. Woodmiles through and we were five days in it had brought a hive of bees safely this far,so you may judge the amount of trouble but the wagon conveying them upset inwe had. Oh! how many cattle died by the creek, broke the hive to pieces, andstarvation and many wagons were broken the bees all drowned. His hive of beesall to pieces, much of the way we had cost him a great deal of trouble, as heropes fastened on the wagon and men had them to feed and water during theholding by the ropes, * * * All hands now long journey. Had he got them through he out of the canon and by the way the had an offer of $500 for them. Indians were now friendly so we could "Another company that came throughtravel as we pleased, by this time the the canyon, a day later than our company, health of my wife had improved so she fared worse, if possible, than we did, forcould ride on horseback. My brother the rain had swollen the stream to almosthaving brought out pack-horses took my a swimming stage. One of their number,family except two boys and bid me good- Judge J.Q. Thornton, * * * [During] ourby, and for her my heart ached. I thought last night in the canyon, * * * a lady gavepossibly I should never see my wife again

44 as she could scarcely walk alone but then cided was useless and must be abandoned. we must do the best we could and bidding Ishall never forget how that big man her good-by they went on and I remainedstood there with tears streaming down a few days to let my oxen rest, * * * Ihis face as he said, 'Do I have to throw learned there was a young man by thethis away? It was my mother's. I remem- name of Garrison in camp and that he wasber she always used it.' And they chris- from the valley * * * I made search and tened him 'Rolling Pin' Smith, a name he found him and who should he be but my carried to the day of his death." nephew * * * Portions of J. Quinn Thornton's rem- Told by Mrs. E.B. Foster in 1914:iniscences follow: "October 29. * * * We * * * We laid by sixteen days in thewere now about to leave our encamp- Calapooia Mountains waiting for the roadment, and enter a pass * * * and, after to be cut out. immense toil to man and beast, encamped "I had to ride horseback and helpon the mountain at sunset, only three drive the cattle after Mr. Applegate tookmiles from our last camp [From present all the men that could be spared. TheAzalea to the summit of Canyon Creek people behind us had a terrible time get-Pass]. The whole company were extrem- ting through." ely exhausted, as well as the cattle. Mr. "My sister, Mrs. Humphrey, and my-Hall did not get his team into camp until self were the first white women throughafter dark. Cow Creek Canyon, and my brother, "November 1. Josiah Morin, whom I Manley Currier, drove the first wagonhad hired to carry some of my clothing, through the canyon. The night after wewas compelled to leave all his large wag- got through, it just poured down. Manleyons, and go forward with a small two- caught cold and had fever after that.horse wagon, having little else in it than "In the Umpqua Valley the daughterthe bed clothing of the family. This left of a Mr. Stewart died. There were justMrs. Thornton and myself in an almost five wagons of us then. They dug her gravehelpless condition. I had, indeed, paid with wooden shovels and cut down sap-Mr. Morin for conveying my clothing as I lings and split them for the coffin." have already stated; but he seemed to Mrs. Mathew P. Deady also remem-feel that his first duties were, neverthe- bered the terrible trip through the can-less, due to his own family, and the pres- yon: "In corning north from the Rogue ervation of his own property. * * * River country we followed the bed of "November 4. * * * I had little re- Cow Creek [Canyon Creek]. It took usmaining, save our buffalo robes, blankets, five days to make nine miles.I havearms, ammunition, watch, and the most never, before or since, seen such roughvaluable part of our wardrobe; and fear- going. The cattle could hardly keep theiring that we would yet lose the most of feet, on account of the smooth water-this, Mrs. Thornton selected the more ex- worn boulders in the bed of the stream,pensive articles of clothing, and I packed and the wagons would occasionally tipthem into two sacks. I succeeded in hiring over. It was getting so late that at a meet-a man to carry these upon his horse. We ing of the men of the wagon train it wasfinally determined that, on the morning decided to throw away every bit of surplusof this day, we would make an effort to weight so that better speed could bepass the mountain. * * * There was a made, and so that the others should notclose canon, some few miles ahead of us, have to wait for some one overladendown which we would have to wade three wagon. One man had brought two hivesmiles in cold mountain snow-water, fre- of bees clear across the plains and hatedquently above the middle. * * * Mrs. to give them up, but the men of the trainThornton, myself and Prince Darco [the decided he could get along without them;dog], started [on foot]early on the so they were left. A man named Smithmorning of this day, I carrying my rifle, had a wooden rolling pin that it was de-revolver, large knife, some ammunition,

45 and a morsel of food in my shot-pouch.that the oxen nearly all died the follow- We passed the only wagon that Josiahing night. He was therefore now in a total- Morin had attempted to take throughly helpless condition. * * * from the encampment of October 29th. "There were several men about the * * * We passed household and kitchenfire, among them was Mr. Smith, whom I furniture, beds and bedding, books, car- had persuaded to attempt the passage. He pets, cooking utensils, dead cattle, brokengot through, with his wife and child, and wagons, and wagons not broken, butalthough almost exhausted, still he was nevertheless abandoned.In short, thenow far more happy than persons gener- whole road presented the appearance ofally are under circumstances much more a defeated and retreating army havingfavorable to happiness and comfort. * * passed over it, instead of one over which "November 5. We resumed our journey had passed a body of cheerful and happyand after wading Canon Creek thirty nine emigrants,filled with high hopes, and[At another time, Thornton wrote they brilliant expectations, and about to entercrossed the creek 48 times]times, we a land of promise. were enabled to avoid it by clambering " * * * we came to where many mostalong the side of the mountain. We at miserable, forlorn, haggard, and destitute-length emerged fully into the open plain, looking emigrants were encamped. * * *and about noon arrived at the place of One of them, a Mr. Smith, had lost every-general encampment, on the left bank of thing, and he appeared to be overwhelmed.the Umpqua River [Canyonville]. * * * His wife had on a coarse and batteredSome of the emigrants had lost their calico dress. She was thinly clad, and thewagons; some their teams; some half they covering for her head was an old sunpossessed; and some everything. Here bonnet. Her child was not in a betterwere men who had a wagon, but wanted condition, while that of her husband was,a team; there, others who had a team, but perhaps, even more pitiable. They hadno wagon. Mr. Humphrey was the only not a cent of money; though had it beenman, who, so far as I have since been able otherwise, it would not have purchasedto learn, got to this point with a whole food, for there was none to be sold. * * * wagon and complete team. * * * He took up his child, and about a pound * * * I found Josiah Morin, who had of food, and desired his afflicted and al-left two wagons * * * Mr. Hall, two; Mr. most helpless companion to follow him. Lovelin, one; Mr. Boone, one or two. "A relative of his of the same nameThere may have been others. * * * had been standing at that place a few "On the following morning, both being days before, counseling with some of thevery weak and hungry, Mrs. Thornton party as to the means of escaping theirand myself strolled along down the river present danger. As he was thus anxiouslybank, with the hope of seeing something deliberating, death summoned him away,that I might shoot for food. * * * I sud- and he fell dead in a moment, leaving adenly saw persons approaching from the poor widow with seven helpless and al-direction of the settlements. * * * I rec- most starving children.I was informedognized Mr. [William] Kirquendall [Who they had nothing for food but the fleshhad previously gone ahead with the Ap- of the cattle that had just perished. * * *plegate road-working party], who, to- "A Mr. Brisbane had also died here,gether with some others had come with and I was informed that a child had diedflour and fat beeves. They came to camp, at this place; * * * where the animals were slaughtered, on "* * A short distance from the placeFriday, November 14, when I obtained where we left the narrow gorge, we cameeighteen pounds of flour, twenty pounds to the tent of Rev. Mr. Cornwall. He hadof beef, and one pound of tallow, at a already passed the canon, but such wasprice which, although very high, would the toil endured by the oxen, * * * andnot cause a starving man to pause. * * * such was the chilling effect of the water, "On the afternoon of Friday, Novem-

46 ber 14,Ihired of Wm. Kirquendall awritten in 1854 by Mrs. Tabitha Brown, horse for Mrs. Thornton and myself toandprintedin the Oregon Historical ride alternately, on our way into theQuarterly of June, 1904. Tabitha Brown, settlements. It would have been impos-the widow of Rev. Clark Brown, crossed sible for either of us to walk all the way,the plains to Oregon in 1846 when 66 so I applied to one Asa Williams, whomyears of age. She traveled with her son, Applegate had sent out, for the use of oneOrus Brown, and daughter, Mrs. Virgil of his horses for the purpose of carrying(Pherne) Pringle, and their families. Also two packets of clothing. * * * a Captain John Brown, brother of her * * * we sat out for the settlement,deceased husband, accompanied them. with a party led by Wm. Kirquendall.Orus Brown several days in advance of the While we were upon the top of a moun-others, took the established Oregon Trail, tain[Roberts Mountain], which com-while the mother, Tabitha, and the Prin- manded a view of a large extent of countrygles turned into the newly located Apple- [Including Round Prairie to the southgate Trail. Tabitha Brown in part wrote: and Roberts Creek Valley to the north], "We were carried hundreds of miles distant about four miles from our latesouth of Oregon into Utah Territory and encampment,Isaw persons upon theCalifornia;fellinwith the Clamotte plain below, approaching from the direc-[Klamath] and Rogue River Indians, lost tion of the camp. Upon inquiring of Mr.nearly all our cattle, passed the Umpqua Kirquendall who they were, he informedMountains,12milesthrough.Irode me that they were Mr. and Mrs. Newtonthrough in three days at the risk of my and Sutton Burns [or Caidwell] ,who werelife, on horseback, having lost my wagon probably endeavoring to come up withand all that I had but the horse I was on. us, * * * Our families were the first that started "We resumed our journey on the fol-through the canyon, so that we got lowing morning; and Mr. Newton re-through the mud and rocks much better sumed his. It was upon this day, I believe,than those that followed. Out of hundreds he was met late in the afternoon by threeof wagons [Less than 100], only one Umpqua Indians, one of whom spokecame through without breaking. The can- English, and informed him that he wouldyon was strewn with dead cattle, broken do well to encamp at the place at whichwagons, beds, clothing, and everything he then was, there not being water andbut provisions, of which latter we were grass as they affirmed at a convenientnearly all destitute. Some people were in distance ahead. They asked for food, andthe canyon two or three weeks before it was given to them. After which theythey could get through. Some died with- asked for three loads of powder and ball,out any warning, from fatigue and starva- and stated that they would bring in ation. Others ate the flesh of cattle that deer. It was given to them, and all bywere lying dead by the wayside. them put into one gun as one load. Mr. "After struggling through mud and Newton finally suspected that harm waswater up to our horses' sides much of the designed, desired them to go away; butway in crossing this 12-mile mountain, we this they refused to do. He sat near theopened into the beautiful Umpqua Val- door of the tent to watch them, but beingley, inhabited only by Indians and wild at length overcome with sleep, he wasbeasts. We had still another mountain to shot. He immediately rose, and sprangcross, the Calipose, besides many miles to into his tent for his gun, when one of thetravel through mud, snow, hail and rain. savages, seizing an ax, inflicted a blow "Winter had set in. We were yet a long which nearly severed one of his legs. Thedistance from any white settlement. The tent was then robbed, and the articlesword was, 'fly, everyone that can, from placed upon an American mare, ownedstarvation; except those who are com- by Mr. Newton, after which they fled."pelled to stay by the cattle to recruit them The following excerpts are from a letterfor further travel.' Mr. Pringle and Pherne

47 insisted on my going ahead with Uncleof night were gathering fast, and I could John to try and save our own lives. Theysee the wagon tracks no further. Alighting were obliged to stay back a few days tofrom my horse, I flung off saddle and recruit their cattle. They divided the lastsaddlepack and tied the horse fast to a bit of bacon, of which I had three slices;tree with a lasso rope. The Captain asked I had also a cup full of tea; no bread. Weme what I was going to do. My answer saddled our horses and set off, not know-was, 'I am going to camp for the night.' ing that we should ever see each otherHe gave a groan and fell to the ground. I again. Captain Brown was too old andgathered my wagon sheet, which I had feeble to render any assistance to me. Iput under my saddle, flung it over a pro- was obliged to ride ahead as a pilot, hop-jecting limb of a tree, and made me a fine ing to overtake four or five wagons thattent. I then stripped the Captain's horse left camp the day before. Near sunset weand tied him; placed saddle, blankets and came up with the families that had leftbridles under the tent, then helped up the that morning. They had nothing to eat,bewildered old gentleman and introduced and their cattle had given out. We allhim to his new lodging upon the bare camped in an oak grove for the night, andground. His senses were gone. Covering in the morning I divided my last morselhim as well as I could with blankets, I with them and left them to take care ofseated myself upon my feet behind him, themselves. I hurried Captain Brown so asexpecting he would be a corpse before to overtake the three wagons ahead. Wemorning. passed beautiful mountains and valleys, "Pause for a moment and consider the saw but two Indians in the distance duringsituation. Worse than alone, in a savage the day. In the afternoon Captain Brownwilderness, without food, without fire, complained of sickness, and could onlycold and shivering, wolves fighting and walk his horse at a distance behind. Hehowling all around me. Dark clouds hid had a swimming in his head and a pain inthe stars. All as solitary as death. But that his stomach. In two or three hours he be-same king Providence that I had always came delirious and fell from his horse. Iknown was watching over me still. I com- was afraid to jump down from my horsemitted all to Him and felt no fear. As to assist him, as it was one that a womansoon as light dawned, I pulled down my had never ridden before. He tried to risetent, saddled my horse, found the Cap- up on his feet, but could not. I rode closetain able to stand on his feet. Just at this to him and set the end of his cane, whichmoment one of the emigrants whom I I had in my hand, hard in the ground towas trying to overtake came up. He was help him up. I then urged him to walk ain search of venison. Half a mile ahead little. He tottered along a few yards andwere the wagons I hoped to overtake, and then gave out. I then saw a little sunkenwe were soon there and ate plentifully of spot a few steps ahead and led his horsefresh meat. Within eight feet of where my to it, and with much difficulty got himtent had been set fresh tracks of two raised to the saddle. I then told him toIndians were to be seen, but I did not hold fast to the horse's mane and I wouldknow they were there. They killed and lead by the bridle. Two miles ahead wasrobbed Mr. Newton, only a short distance another mountain to climb over. As weoff, but would not kill his wife because reached the foot of it he was able to takeshe was a woman. They killed another the bridle in his own hand and we passedman on our cut-off [At Lower Klamath over safely into a large valley, a wide,Lake], but the rest of the emigrants es- solitary place, but no wagons in sight. caped with their lives. We traveled on for "The sun was now setting, the winda few days and came to the foot of the was blowing, and the rain was driftingCalipose Mountain." upon the sides of the distant mountain. Walter Meacham, executive secretary, Poor me! I crossed the plain to whereOregon Council, American Pioneer Trails three mountain spurs met. Here the shadesAssociation,in1947,inpart wrote:

48 "There were a number of Smiths in the selfishness was that enacted by an elderly Applegate party, the best-known beingemigrant, James Curtendall, affectionately William Smith, who was captain of a num- referred to as "Uncle Jim." He was strick- ber of wagons, and was highly regarded. en with fever and was too ill to travel, so The Smith family had a hard day Novem-was, at his own request, left behind. He ber 15, in forcing its way down Canyonhad, he declared, but a short time to live, Creek. Fallen trees, driftwood and bould- and there was no reason to jeopardize the ers blocked the way, requiring great exer- safety of the entire company because of tion to overcome. Finding a wide spot in one old man. His only request was that a the canyon, Smith called a halt and camp cup of water be left behind to cool his was made. Around a blazing log fire, the parched throat. His wife had died far back emigrants took inventory of their losses on the trail, leaving a son in his "twenties" and discussed plans for the future. The and a daughter in her "teens" in his care. majority were of the opinion that it was "When they rebelled at leaving him impossible to continue with their wagons, alone, he told them that his life was about but Captain Smith was of fighting blood spent, that theirs had just begun, and in- and chided the men for giving up so easily, sisted that they could best honor him and declaring that he was going to take his their mother by pushing on to the goal of light spring wagon through to the Willa- their ambitions, the Willamette Valley. mette Valley to transport his sixteen year After a tearful farewell, the two bereaved old daughter Louisa and the little children. youngsters joined the emigrant band on "While Smith was exhorting the men, its toilsome march through the canyon. he sank to his knees, looked up and ex- They made five miles that day. The son claimed:'Lord have mercy upon me,' and another young man went back to see then fell forward dead. His sudden death how Uncle Jim was faring, and arrived in cast gloom over the company, for he was time to see him breathing his last. Out of its counseler and guide. Smith left his a deserted wagon-box they made a crude wife Ellen and nine children without his coffin and buried the kindly old man in protectivecare.Instead of the springthe Canyon of Sorrows." wagon being used as he intended, it was George W. Riddle, a boy of 11 years in torn apart and the box was used to make 1951 when he traveled a portion of the a coffin for its owner. He was buried near Applegate Trail, recalled in part in 1915: the spot where he fell, like a soldier who "We met several pack trains as we con- dies in battle. tinued our journey through the beautiful "The Smith party stayed in camp for aRogue River Valley. * * * number of days to recuperate its strength, "At the time we passed through the while two of the young men set out forRogue River Valley there were no settle- the Willamette Valley for help. Henryments and we met no prospectors. * * Smith, no relative of the late captain, was "We forded the Rogue River some- chosen as the new leader. Under his or-where above Grants Pass * * * ders, the wagons were abandoned, and "Our train made fair progress until we some of the personal belongings werearrived at a point where the south end of packed on oxen. Louisa Smith, who was the Hildebrand grade connects with the ill, was mounted on a side-saddle on oldold road [Approximately two miles north Darby, a reliable ox. Sharing Darby's back of the summit of Canyon Creek Moun- were Marion, the baby, one year old, andtain]. There we passed over a ridge on the Thaddeus,acripple, three years old.north side of the creek, then down a Louisa died near the present Roseburg.steep hill in the bed of the creek. At this Knowing that her end was near, she re-hill ropes were attached to wagons, with quested that her grave be dug deep, andmen holding, to prevent the wagons run- that large rocks be placed upon it so thening onto teams or overturning. On reach- wolves could not reach her. ing the creek bed our route lay right in "One of the outstanding acts of un-the bed for one and a half miles, the slope

49 Site of first emigrant ford of the , northwest of Canyonville ap- proximately three miles. 1-5 in the background.(Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Third emigrant ford of the South Umpqua River, one mile west of the first ford. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

50 Applegate Trail and later Stage Road west of Myrtle Creek, off the west end of Dole Street. Some of the best remains of the Apple- gate Trail yet found.(Photo by Helen Heifrich) of the mountains coming right down tomette Valley for the winter, but to leave the water on both sides. * * * it was cov- the family in camp near his place and go ered with boulders from the size of aon with the ox teams for supplies, which pumpkin to a haystack. I recall the leadhe did, and on returning, we returned to teams, on being let down into the creek,what was afterward our home at Glen- moved right on without reference to thosebrook farmthe first donation claim lo- behind. cated in Cow Creek Valley." "It was about 4 o'clock in the after- noon that our teams left the creek bed. We had then made about five miles. At that point we met some men who hadRETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAIL come up from 'Knott's station,' near"WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975 Canyonville, to help us through the can- yon. At this point I was sent ahead with Between Azalea (nearI-SExit 88) the loose stock, arriving at the north endwhere the emigrants laid over while the of the canyon after dark. A part of theroad ahead was being opened, and Can- train had come through and were campedyon Creek Pass, a distance of two and just across the bridge south from Can-one half miles, all traces of the Applegate yonville. By noon of the second day ourTrailhave been destroyed.First,old teams had arrived at camp after passingfreight and stage roads, then Old Highway the worst ten miles of road between the99, and finally present Interstate 5 have and civilization in Ore-replaced any trace of the original trail. gon, for here we found the first house in From the summit of Canyon Creek Oregon. We arrived at Canyonville Sept-Pass to Canyonville, seven and one half ember 20. * * * At this point we partedmiles, I-S has also wiped out all preceed- company with the other families anding trails, roads and highways except in a young men that we had traveled with forfew locations where Old 99 can be seen five months, * * * clinging to the left hillside, and in the "The Hill and Briggs families and inbottom to the right for the last two or fact all our friends hurried on to thethree miles before reaching Canyonville. Willamette Valley. Mr. Hill settled on theIn addition, the Canyon Creek stream McKenzie eastof Eugene *** Thebed has been moved to new locations Briggs family returned early the nextexcept in two or three places upstream, year and located in Orchard Valley * * *and near the canyon mouth. Moreover, Charles W. Beckwith also returned * * *all down timber and brush have been re- "North of Canyonville we forded themoved. Umpqua River three times within one As you travel down this modern four mile. * * * On rounding the hill [at pre-lane freeway on a uniform grade, it be- sent Tn-City grade school] we came uponcomes extremely difficult to imagine the a little log house occupied by Williamhardships and sufferings that once oc- Weaver. * * * The next house was that ofcurred in this "Canyon Passage." John and Henry Adams who were bache- But should one become too compla- lors at the time, * * * cent, remember this terrible canyon of "Our next day's drive we passed overemigrant days has not yet been complet- Roberts Mountain, the road then layingely conquered. As late as mid-January, up the small creek as you approach the1974 severe storms raked the Pacific foot of the mountain from the south,Northwest for several days. As a result passing over near the residence of thethe towering hillsides bordering Canyon late Plinn Cooper, to Roberts Creek. HereCreek became so water soaked that some- we found the fourth settler in Oregontime on the morning of January 16th a Jesse Roberts. mud slide occurred on the east slope. It "Mr. Roberts persuaded my father tocut a Pacific Northwest Bell coaxial cable abandon his plans of going to the Willa-connecting Portland and Sacramento at a

52 point one and a half miles upstream In Canyonville, Main Street approxi- (south) from Canyonville near a repeatermates the emigrant trail and later roads station hut. until you must return to I-S to continue Construction crews from Pacific North-onward. Follow I-S to the crossing of the west Bell and Sage Pipeline, Inc. wereSouth Umpqua where the site of the emi- rushed to the scene to begin restoration.grant ford can be observed immediately Some 40 or more men worked in thebelow the present bridge. A ferry once area during the daylight hours replacingoperated at approximately the site of the the break with a new temporary cable. By bridge. late afternoon with splicing operations One of the peculiarities of this trail's underway at both ends of the new cable, history is the fact that no diary, and but half the crew were released. one reminiscence mentions fording the Around 6:30 P.M. there were ten men river. Only George W. Riddle, 11 years of working in, or very near, the repeater hut. age in 1851, and who lived in the vicinity Eleven more were at a splicing pit 1200the remainder of his life mentions the feet upstream. three fords within one mile necessary to At 6:36 a giant second slide occurredbe traveled in order to continue down which killed nine men, injured a tenth,river. The 1854 General Land Office sur- destroyed six trucks and cars and demol-vey, however, shows only the first ford, ished the concrete hut which had stoodbut some road work had been done by for 27 years. Shortly afterward a thirdthat time. Since all roads leading to the slide completely covered the damage done Roseburg area followed down the right by the second one. The mass of mud,bank of the river, it therefore follows they rocks and trees measured some 350 feetwere compelled to cross at least once from the base of the mountain to wheresince they were on the left bank after its foot rested in Canyon Creek. passing out of Canyon Creek Canyon. A nine day search followed in which Continuing northward from the third the bodies of William L. Centers, Med-crossing of the South Umpqua, the Ap- ford; William E. Combs, Medford; Robertplegate Trail kept along the foothills to M. Miller, Medford; Robert A. Keller,the east, approximating Old 99, past Tn Lake Oswego; Edward A. Waldron, Jack-City, with present I-S passing to the west. sonville (found eight miles downstream Old 99 continues to approximate the in the Umpqua River); Gilbert W. Maret,trail to the town of Myrtle Creek, crossing Wilbur; Roy L. James, Roseburg (foundthe stream of the same name below (west one mile downstream); all Pacific North-of) the present bridge. It then passed west Bell employees; and Mark Garoutte, through town below Main Street to cross Roseburg (found one mile downstream),it near its western end where Dole Street a Sage Pipeline employee, were recovered. branches uphill to the right. Here traces One body, thatof Raymond Bell,of the trail and later stage and freight Myrtle Creek, a Sage Pipeline employee, roads are still in evidence. Dole Street and was never found. its continuation, a rather primitive road A tenth man, R.F. "Bob" Cook, Med-which leads past the city dump ground ford, walking midway between the hutare the old trail. and the shoulder of 1-5, was hit by debris The original trail and later stage and and thrown some 30 feet but managed tofreight roads have been for the most part survive. replaced by the Southern Pacific railroad In retracing the emigrant trail, if pre- for the next 6½ miles, or to a point north ferred, about three miles before reachingof the Mary Moore bridge near the station Canyonville, take the off-ramp to theof Round Prairie. For anyone retracing right which most of the way to Canyon- the trail it is best perhaps to regain I-S vile is Old 99 and you will get a betterwest across the bridge from Myrtle Creek, idea of the original route than by stayingand follow it to the Mary Moore-Round on 1-5. Prairie off-ramp.

53 South Umpqua River Canyon bypassed by the Dole Street extension of the Applegate Trail. The trail came down a shelf on the hillside in the strip of timber visible right to center. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

Round Prairie, foreground; Roberts Mountain, background. The Applegate Trail crossed Roberts Mountain to the right out of the picture at approximately the same location as present 1-5.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

54 O5(%LL ROAD BUILT BYCOLJO[HOFB 57 FIR CA:Q&. STAGE PASSOOYf Jur; I8O (ftSTJJO$j PSS AI2 sr frER TJ* BURE1T

Old marker at the south base of Roberts Mountain where the Applegate Trail follows up gulch in background. Gordon Burnett, left, on whose ranch the marker is located. Devere Heifrich, right, editor Kiamath Echoes. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Scars of the Applegate Trail still visible at the summit of Roberts Mountain. Gordon Burnett, left; Devere Helfrich, right.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

55 Ia

Devere Helfrich standing on hillside where Applegate Trail scars once showed, before grass seeding operations. South approach to Roberts Mountain summit. (Photo by Helen Heifrich) The present day county road lying be-Roseburg area. low and to the west of 1-5 as the latter The eastern branch, undoubtedly the commences the climb to the summit ofemigrant trail, led down the north slope Roberts Mountain, reaches what is calledof the mountain to the right of a small locally "Hulburt Gulch" coming downround butte ("Cooper Butte") lying east from the northeast on the Gordon Bur-and below 1-5, to cross Roberts Creek nett ranch. At this point (near the Burnettnear the old Roberts place, less than a barn) the Applegate Trail and its 1853mile upstream from 1-5. The trail contin- replacement (laid out by Major Benjaminued northerly through three low passes Alford and Jesse Applegate) both contin-(the middle one being one half mile east ue up the gulch. of the drive-in theatre) in the foothills of The emigrant trail may have crossed"Boone" or Burg Mountain. Once over Robetts Mountain in three different loca-these passes, the trail followed down the tions, one the same as 1-5, and the otherSouth Fork of Parrot Creek and entered two about 200 yards to the west (remainsRoseburg on or near Booth Street. can still be seen there). The present county The western branch (probably the road continues farther west over Roberts1853 Alford Road) dropped down from Mountain to cross at the same location asRoberts Mountain westof "Cooper did the 1859 Hooker road used by theButte;" crossed Roberts Creek about one stages and freighters. fourth mile east of 1-5, to parallel the 1853 General Land Office surveys in-latter to the Old 99 off-ramp into Rose- dicate that from the summit of Robertsburg. This road closely followed the South Mountain, two roads led north to theUmpqua before entering town from the

56 A crossingThe Applegate is approximately Trail crossed one Roberts mile east Creek of present Valley 1-5.which lies between Roberts Mountain and the hills southeast of Roseburg. The (Photo by Helen Helfrich) Looking south up the south branch of Parrot Creek. The original Applegate Trail came down this draw to enter Roseburg.(Photo by Helen Helfrch)

The original Applegate Trail entered Roseburg near Booth Street from the southwest down Parrot Creek. It then more or less approximated Main Street to the Aaron Rose Cabin near the present court house.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

58 south. ased the claim from its locators "for a Both branches passed through present horse and a poor one at that." From the Roseburg, probably somewhere near Main site of this cabin, the trail turned westerly, Street, to cross Deer Creek west of thefollowing the curve of the river to pass Douglas County Courthouse. It was near very near the present Veterans' Hospital this point that Aaron Rose settled onand on to Newton Creek about where September 23, 1851 after having purch-Garden Valley Road now crosses.

CHAPTER VII NORTH ROSEBURG TO SCOTT'S VALLEY

VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846: entry for November 3rd]. No rain today. The happiest day to us for many. 4- Friday, November 6Go to the Ump-2,284 miles [Camp was near but probably qua River, 6 miles to the upper ford [Thisnortheast of Wilbur]. ford was near the mouth of Sutherlin Tuesday, November 10Travel 5 miles Creek, two miles below the Interstate 5and cross Elk Creek and camp in first-rate and Old 99 bridges at Winchester. In otherfeed [Pringle's Elk Creek is present day words, immediately north of the turn-Calapooya Creek. Camp was probably around at the north end of Fisher Road].made about one mile downstream from Find no chance to cross, the river tooOakland]. A rainy, cold day. 5 miles. high. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, No- Saturday, November 7Go to the low-vember 11, 12, 13Lay by to repair shoes er ford and commence crossing in canoe, and lay in a stock of meat; got 3 deer and get all over but the wagons [This, thea salmon from the Indians and our teams lower ford, was "one mile above" themuch improved and ourselvesrested. forks of the North and South Umpqua Saturday, November 14A fine day Rivers, or 3/4of a mile below Brown'sbut cool. Travel 6 miles of hilly road and Bridgeon the Garden ValleyRoad. camp on the head of a branch [Camp was Pringle's estimated distance of 5 milesnear Rice Hill and could have been on the between the two fords in 1846 seems toheadwaters of either Cabin Creek or on be correct for the route followed] . No Yoncalla Creek at the southwest extremity rain. 5 miles. of Pleasant ValleyI.Bury Mrs. Bounds, Sunday, November 8Cross the wag-who died the day before, wife of J.B. ons, and go 1 mile [Camp northeasterlyBounds. 6 miles. from Brown's Bridge]. Had nothing to Sunday, November 15Travel 4 miles, eat yesterday for supper. A beef killed infind a good camp and stay 1 day for the camp and we got the paunch and upperbenefit of the teams [Probably still in part of the head, which did us till MondayPleasant Valley on one of the forks of for breakfast. Rains all day. 1 mile. Cowan Creek I. Road muddy and heavy. Monday, November 9Ate the last of 4 miles. our tripe. Start with heavy hearts. Meet Tuesday, November 17Make four some Indians and get six venison hams, amiles to the foot of Callipoa Mountains great relief to our minds. Go one mile[Perhaps near the junction of Curtis and further and meet Octavius with half aLees Creeks, which joining Cox Creek, all bushel of peas and forty pounds of flour,flow into Elk Creek just north of Scotts which gives us joy [Met Octavius, whoValley]. 4 miles. had been ahead to Fort Umpqua for sup- plies, near the present Hestner's Landing boat launching park slightly over one mile above Brown's Bridge. See Pringle'sLESTER G. HULIN, 1847

59 Elk cre fr

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I Brow,pJ8-JI I® e 60 [Entry for September 27th continued jaded teams. Reaching the foot of the from Chapter VI]. * * * to the crossing mountains, they found their way blocked of the N.W. fork of the river [North Ump- by timber and brush through which no qua]; about one mile above the forks, road had been blazed. camped here; distance 18 miles. Enroute the wife of John B. Bounds F. 28th. Spent the whole day in cross- died and was buried on the north side of ing the river, which was done by means of Calapooya Creek about one half mile the assistance of Indians and canoes [3% of from present Oakland. In addition, the a mile below Brown's Bridge, on Garden wagon of Richard Linville upset in cross- Valley Road northwest of Roseburg]. ing a rain swollen creek [Wilson or Cowan S. 29th. Left the river and made the Creek] near present Yoncalla and before Calipooyah river in10 miles; then on reaching the foot of the mountains. His about 4 miles and camped, 14 miles in all wife, quite an elderly lady, was drowned [Four miles north of Oakland on Cabin before she could be rescued from beneath Creek or about the same distance south of the overturned wagon and its contents. Rice Hill, near the Goodrich Road turn- Talbot Carter next continues his recol- off]. lections: " * * * but several rainy days S. 30. Passed on about 10 miles andand muddy roads brought us to the camped; good camping anywhere, but it crossing of North Umpqua River. The has rained for the last 4 days [Perhaps in Indians furnished canoes tocross the the northwest corner of Scotts Valley] wagons in. By lifting the wagons in and out of the canoes and swimming the stock, we managed to cross. This was severe on the poor oxen, the water being JESSE APPLEGATE'S WAYBILL, 1848 very cold. Our ferriage was very expen- sive, as the Indians saw they had us at Scott's Farm [In Scotts Valley, north- their mercy, and, acting as one of our east of Yoncalla] 20 miles. white brothers will act, made the best of Calapooia Mountain 5 miles. it.* * * until we approached the Cala- pooia Mountains * * * Some time pre- vious to this our distress had become known to friends in the settlement, who When the small group of emigrants, in-met their friends with fresh teams and cluding Virgil Pringle, in advance of all provisions,but unfortunatelyfor our others, and led by Levi Scott, reached thelittle party we had no such good luck." North Umpqua some two miles below Mrs. Mathew P. Deady continues her present Winchester, they found the streamstory: "After great hardships and discom- too high from the recent rains to ford.fort we finally made our way through Accordingly they retraced their route Cow Creek Canyon [Canyon Creek Can- some four or more miles to a point [3% of yon]. We came on northward, having a mile below Brown's Bridge on the Gar-very hard going, as it was late in the year den Valley Road] to where Scott hadand the winter rains had started. We had forded the stream with the trail-blazersbeen eight months on the road, instead of the preceeding June. Here the stream wasfive, so we were out of food and our deep and rocky. They hired a canoe from cattle were nearly worn out. We crossed the Indians camped along the stream and the river near the present site of Roseburg ferried the women, children and baggageby tying two canoes together and putting over. They then proceeded to ford thethe wagons on them and ferrying them teams and empty wagons across. over. We had obtained some fresh meat Fairly open country lay ahead to thefrom some trappers, and a day later my foot of the Calapooya Mountains withmother's brother, Mr. John Holman, met reasonably good roads. Even then their us. He had heard of our plight, so he came progress was slow and tortuous due towith food and horses to get us. We left

61 The first emigrant wagons in 1846 attempted to cross the North Umpqua at this point, two miles below present 1-5 and opposite the mouth of Sutherlin Creek. Failing here due to high waters, they moved downstream below Brown's Bridge and succeeded in crossing with the aid of Indian canoes. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

This barn with its famous sign stood alongside Old Highway 99 for years. It was torn down in the fall of 1975. The Applegate Trail used approximately the same route. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

62 North Umpqua above Brown's Bridge, site of the first ferry established in 1849. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

North Umpqua after the fall rains. This approach on the north bank of the river is one mile below Brown's Bridge and could possibly be the site of the 1846-47 emigrant ford.(Photo by Helen Heifrich)

63 the wagons, and with mother on one'Cousin IsraelStoley.' With Thornton, horse holding her 6-weeks-old baby [Bornthey joined the Rice Dunbar train west of at High Rock Canyon in Nevada], andthe Big Blue in . with one of the little children sitting be- "* * about the first week in October hind her, and with the rest of us ridingwe reached the famous Umpqua Canyon. behind thedifferent men, we startedThe teams were poor and jaded with the north. I rode behind my uncle, Mr. Hol-long, weary travel. man. Two of the children rode with our "After a day's rest we entered the can- cousin, one in front of his saddle and oneyon with our wagons and teams. The rest behind it." of the company decided to stay in camp Walter Meacham writing for the Oregonanother day. We started but on that mis- Pioneer Trails Association in 1947 con-erable road we made little progress. When tinues: "Of the brave array of wagonscamping time came we estimated our which left the Old Oregon Trail to followday's travel at three miles. * * * Next a supposedly shorter and better route,morning we attempted to advance, but but half reached their goal. One of theseour road soon entered and followed dir- belonged to Rev. J.A. Cornwall. His oxenectly in the channel of the creek which had perished in crossing the Umpquadrained the canyon. That cold mountain Range, though his wagon remained intact.water soon chilled our poor oxen and Cornwall's cherished possession was hisseveral of them fell down and died. We library, which he carried in his wagon.found it necessary as soon as we reached Rather than abandon it, he decided toa little opening in the canyon to camp winter in the mountains. A pleasant spotthere. There we remained several days, was selected by the side of a small stream,during which time we lost a good Ameri- now known as Cabin Creek, near thecan horse and all of our oxen, except present Oakland, Oregon. There a com-three head. One yoke of oxen disappeared fortable cabin was built of fir logs. Duringin the yoke and we never got a trace of the long, rainy winter evenings, the pre-them. cious library brought the family much * * * We remained at our camp until comfort and joy as its members read bymost of our company had passed by us on the light of flaring pine knots. The familythe march; cow had survived the trek so there was * * * Having cashed two trunks full plenty of milk; their rifles supplied wildof books and sent forward our tent and meat; old clothes and cooking utensilssome bedding by Mr. Byrd and Mr. Chris- were traded to the Indians for camas, aman, we prepared to join the forlorn pro- palatable, bulbous root gathered by thecession moving on toward the Willamette. Indian women. On April 9, 1847, friendsMother, yet weak from her mountain from the Willamette Valley arrived at thefever, was placed on Jude, our fine saddle cabin, bringing provisions and two yokemule, with little sister Laura, the babe, in of oxen to pull the Cornwall wagon."her lap. As we had to cross the cold In 1900, Joseph H. Cornwall wrote amountain stream Father often led Sister Historical Sketch of the J.A. [JosephusNarcissa and Brother George. Sister Elisa- Adamson] Cornwall family in which thebeth and I were old enough and strong missing history of the Cornwall family inenough to keep step in the march on foot. the Umpqua Country is related. ExtractsAnd in that plight we passed through the follow: " * * * Father, forty-eight yearscanyon. * * * While we were there [At old, Mother [Nancy Hardin], thirty five,the mouth of the canyon] Father made sister Elisabeth, sixteen, myself thirteen,arrangements with Mr. Campbell and by Narcissa nine, George seven, and Laurajoining teams, they brought his two ox nearly two years old; and three youngwagons out of the canyon. And he gave men whose names were Lorenzo Byrd,one of them for help to haul the other, as Richard Chrisman and a Mr. Jones [Theby that arrangement he was able to save latter traveled to Independence only]. Athis library and transport the rest of our the latter place they were joined bybaggage. He also brought out the family

64 carriage with his mules. to reach the settlements * * * and three "After resting a few days, Mr. Camp-men (Joseph Hess, Josiah Nelson, and bell's family anl ours and some others, asClark Rogers), *** came to us and best they could, went on leisurely, untilbrought us to the settlements in Chehalem we reached the vicinity of Oakland in theValley, Yamhill County, * * * Umpqua valley. There we met some men "We left our camp in Umpqua Valley [The Thomas Holt party] with a smallon the tenth of April, 1847; * * * supply of provisions from the Willamette The above letter sent to the settle- and some of us decided to winter there.ments and delivered there by Thomas * * * Cousin Israel Stoley rejoinedHolt was dated Umpqua Valley, Decem- us and decided to remain with us for theber 27, 1846. It was printed in theOregon winter. * * * Father was anxious to saveSpectatorunder date of March 4, 1847. his wagons and a fine library which heThe letter in part stated: " * * * in behalf brought with him. Therefore, he consid-of a small company of emigrants * * * ered it absolutely necessary to wait forMyself and a large family [eight members I better weather and better roads beforeamong them * * * resuming our journey. "We are in number about 25 or 30 * * * Our only supply of flour wassouls [Included in this group were the eighty pounds sent by a friend from theCornwall, Rice Dunbar and James Camp- Willamette. * * * The supply of flour andbell families. For further information on bacon with which we left Missouri wasthese families, see the Thomas Holt Jour- exhausted when we were at the canyon;nal given in Chapter XI ahead. James * * * Father purchased a fine beef drivenCampbell had previously gone to the set- from the Willamette and slaughtered it attlements for help and returned with Holt camp. We also milked two or three cows,to rescue his family]* * * and the above mentioned flour, beef and "Signed: J.A. Cornwall." milk were our only known supply of pro- visions for the winter, except the venison, which our hunters might secure and a little camas, a wild tuber, which we could pur- RETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAIL chase, at times, from the Indians. Fortun- "WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975 ately wild deer were then abundant in the Umpqua hills, and our hunters kept us Between theVeteran'sHospital in wellsupplied with venisonwhile weRoseburg and Brown's Bridge across the stayed there. North Umpqua, the Applegate Trail is "During the winter Stoley and twoclosely followed by the present Garden others from our camp visited the HudsonValley Road. Bay fort [near present Elkton], far down Once the North Umpqua is reached the Umpqua River, where each was sup- there are several locations where the river plied with a bushel of wheat or peas, ac-had been crossed by fords or ferries prior cording to choice; and a few handfuls ofto the first bridges. There seems to have salt, nothing more being obtainable frombeen at least two crossings used prior to there. the arrival of the first emigrant wagons in * * * Father having brought a cross-the fall of 1846. The lower crossing was cut saw and a frow with him and there be-about one mile above the junction of the ing excellent cedar timber near our camp,North and South Umpquas, or about we went to work in early winter to buildthree fourths of a mile below present a cabin. About Christmas it was com-Brown's Bridge. The upper crossing was pleted, with excellent cedar shakes forabout three miles upstream from the same the roof, and excellent cedar puncheonsbridge. Both were probably used for years for the floor and a comfortable chimney.by trappers and traders, and for centuries "Father had sent word by some of ourbefore that by Indians, and both seem to company [In the Thomas Holt party Ihave been known to Levi Scott guiding the previous fall that we would need aidthe lead wagons in 1846.

65 ';'- ' - -r LiE icTEa!Q tHflcMOlb'& RACORrWALL4ND rMlLy); TtWtLtThE .TIPST IMMIORANT CAQ1N tIuDouquW. J... . TI IFS Slit FSJ4C. .fl N4*1. CAM: C*t{c Y WE FAMILi''MITho IB.46 j4 WZPE SMbFRØTh 4w W4kS knW4UM1QL,$ * ttqL1DJ4N5 WSE MENIWY r somewhere inthefield foreground.(PhotobyHelenHelfrich) Scott's ValleyonElkCreek. TheoriginalApplegateTrailpassedfromrighttoleft The SouthernPacificRailroadacrossCalapooyaCreekatitsjunctionwithCabin (to theleftthissideofbridge).

-J (Photo byHelenHelfrich) 4' PIONE.ER, STATESMAN. PHILOSOPHER. LEADR OM1GRATON TO OREGON IN 1843. LEADER OF PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT OF ORtON IN 1644- 184g. FIRST SUR\EYOIIGENERAL IN ..1844. TRAIL BLAZER, FORT HALL1 iDAHO. TO WILLAMITTE VALLEY, IN 1&4, MEMBER Of OREGON flRR1IORY LEGISLATURE IN 1849. MEMBER OF CONSTTUTIONAL CONVENTION FOR STATE Of OREGON IN täM.SETTLED HERE IN 1849, ONE-HALF MILE WEST k Of THIS SRQT. HIS HOUSE WAS SCENE F! Of FIRST COURT Of PROVISiONAL QVtRNMENT, SOUTHERN DISTRICT. 1852. The common headstone at the graves of Jess and Cynthia Applegate. Jesse's name is on the south face and Cynthia's on the north face. The original headstone of native stone deteriorated to such an extent that it was replaced by the present marker. Located one half mile west of the Jesse Applegate marker on Old Highway 99. (Photo by Helen Heifrich) These wagons (see the Pringle diary)family lived during the winter of 1846- using a route to the east but correspond-47. A granite marker commemorating the ing to Fisher Road, were turned back byevent stands nearby on the eastern side high waters at the upper ford, so retracingof Old 99. their route in part, they managed to cross From this site the Applegate Trail ran at the lower ford by using Indian canoesnortherly through a low pass midway be- to ferry their wagons across the river. Ittween the Old 99 and present I-S location, is presumed the rest of the 1846 emigra-paralleling the original Goodrich Road tion used the same ford. So also did theone half mile farther east. The trail again 1847 emigration (see the Hulin diary) userejoinsCabin Creek near the present this lower ford. Where the Gold-rushers ofGoodrich Road off-ram one and one 1848, heading toward California, crossedhalf miles south of Turkey Hill. Again is unknown, but it is quite possible theythe emigrant trail circles to the east, pass- used one or the other of these two fords.ing immediately north of Evans Butte Then in 1849 a Daniel Hasty estab-and using the same pass as Goodrich Road lished a ferry at one of three possible lo-one mile east of Turkey Hill. cations, near Brown's Bridge; or a site The trail then ran northwesterly into three miles upstream near the mouth ofRice Valley to rejoin Old 99 and I-S south Sutherlin Creek; or two miles farther up-of Rice Hill and correspond with them stream, near the present dam at Winches-down Yoncalla Creek to a point where ter.All three locations are shown asthe two present highways separate, two crossing (ford or ferry not stated) by themiles south of the town of Yoncalla. Here 1853 Elder & Gile General Land Officewe come to the most difficult decision survey. Also shown by this survey isyet encountered. What route north did "Brown's field" on the downstream sidethe original Applegate Trail actually fol- of the north end of Brown's Bridge.low? Thomas Cowan seems to have run the This writer chooses the right hand, or ferry for a short time. Then Thomas Smitheastern line of the 1853 G L 0 survey. To and John Aiken traded for the ferry insubstantiate this decision the following late May and ran it during the remainderproof is offered: 1. John B. Preston, Sur- of 1849. High waters swept this ferryveyor General of Oregon shows this the away during March, 1850. route as of October 21, 1852 on his Map John Aiken, a member of the Umpquaof Western Oregon. 2. The General Land Land Company, together with HermanOffice surveys of 1853 and 1856 indicate Winchester and Jesse Applegate, probablythis was the route. 3. McCormack and started the Winchester ferry early in 1850.Pownell's Map of Oregon, 1859, also in- Continuing northeasterly from presentdicates this route. 4. Levi Scott, living in Brown's Bridge, via paved county roads,or near Scott Valley in 1848 and 1849, the original emigrant trail and the presentstated, "My place was then on the route day trail retracer rejoin 1-5at Wilbur.they[theGold-rushers of '491must Follow 1-5 to a point one mile north oftravel." This appears to state that a later Deady where the 1853 G L 0 survey in-road may have led elsewhere. Where did dicates two routes, the western corres-Levi Scott then reside? 5. Jesse Apple- ponding to 1-5, and the eastern to Old 99gate's Waybill of 1848 states: "Scott's through Sutherlin. Which branch is thefarm. . .20 miles," [from the North Ump- original is unknown. qua Crossing]. However, he does not in- These two routes rejoin at Union Gapdicate from which crossing. We know Levi on Old 99 to cross Calapooya Creek aboutScott's sons located on Elk Creek, in one mile downstream (west) from Oak-Scott's Valley, but where was Levi Scott's land. Passing just to the west of the cem-own place. Further research may pin-point etery, Calapooya Creek is again reachedthe exact location. 6. F.C. Frear, County north of Oakland near its junction withEngineer, Douglas County, once traced Cabin Creek. This spot is near the locationthis eastern route on a U.S.F.S. map as of the cabin where the J.A. Cornwallthat followed by the original Applegate

70 Trail. 7. in his well docu-fourth miles north of town. It then fol- mented two volume "Overland in 1846,"lowed down Yoncalla Creek, crossing Elk definitely states this was the original trail Creek just above the junction of the two traveled.8. The difficult route, brush, streams, then up Elk Creek one half mile timber and steep hills described by Pringle, north to Wise Creek and up the latter, Scott and Hulin seem to accurately de- passing Drain Hill to the north, to enter scribe this route. And further, present present East Drain. A branch road from 1-5 utilizes this route as the most directthe Jesse Applegate ranch crossed Yon- and superior to that followed by thecalla Creek below its junction with Elk stages,freighters and Old 99 throughCreek and there joined the above trail. Drain, all of which were located to best A later road was built directly south serve the settlers. from Drain to pass along the northeast This writer believes that the trail ap-slopes of Mount Yoncalla above Old 99. proximating Old 99 through Drain prob- It passed back of Boswell Mineral Springs ably came into use during the summer ofand can still be seen clinging to the hill- 1849 following the arrival of the threesides until the Jesse Applegate ranch was Applegate Brothers who settled in thereached. This was the route of the Calif- Yoncalla and Halo Creek Valleys. ornia-Oregon Stage line. According tothe1853and 1858 It may be of interest to some to know G L 0 surveys, this western branch of the thatthe Applegate Brothers; Charles, trail ran almost pallel to Old 99 butJesse and Lindsay, settled in 1849 on slightly west of it through the town ofDonation Land Claims 37 and 38 (Town- Yoncalla. It crossed to the east or northship 22 South, Range 5 West), and 42 side of Yoncalla Creek about one and a(T. 23 S., R. 5 W.) respectively.

CHAPTER VIII SCOTT'S VALLEY TO NORTH EUGENE VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 vide.] Saturday, November 21 Make 2 miles Wednesday, November 18Go over headway and camp. Rains yesterday and one ridge of the mountains and make 2 today. 2 miles. [Probably reached the miles. - 2 miles. present Divide Overpass which crosses the Thursday, November 19Climb anoth- Southern Pacific Railroad.] er ridge with double teams and make 3 Sunday, November 22Help finish the miles headway and camp with little feed. road and complete the pass of the moun- 3-2,308 miles. tains and camp 2 miles from the foot in Friday, November 20Move forwardthe Willamette Valley. My wagons and to the top of the mountain on gently ris-one other the first that entered the valley. ing ground and camp with the foremost All in good health and well pleased with wagons 4 miles from last camp. One steerthe appearance of the country. Headway, dies at this camp. 4 miles. [From Pringle's 5 miles-5. [This campsite was probably camp of November 18th, supposedly near on the Coast Fork of the Willamette River the junction of Curtis and Lees Creeks, near Latham.] north of Scotts Valley, the Applegate Monday and Tuesday, November 23 Trail followed up the latter creek to cross and 24Rest and feed our teams and over the summit between Lees and Buck move one mile and make arrangements Creeks to then follow down the latter to for a small supply of provisions. About present Anlauf. This stretch of trail needs seventy miles from settlement. 1-2,318 further research to pin-point its location miles. [This campsite was probably near between the two creeks. From Anlauf Silk Creek in western Cottage Grove. the trail followed up Pass Creek to the Pringle seems to indicate that a relief Calapooya Mountains Summit near Di-party was met here from whom they re-

71 Crew I, Cre,wieJ/ 9rn'r

,41pp/. ,P.l,fe T '.1

Coiti1 c,-.v& rk Ci4pocycv

Old qq q4;i,-i 4$I J)(1e "P &5 Creek ce',

72 ceived a small "supply of provisions," andWalamett valley atsunset; distance 7 in addition learned that it was 70 milesmiles. Last two days rainy. [This time, to the settlements. This may have been seven miles would locate Hulin near pres- the wagon train mentioned by both Levi ent Divide or Veatch.] Scott and Tolbert Carter in their reminis- 2nd. Passed down the valley about 10 cences.] miles and camped on the Wallamette Wednesday,November 25Traveledriver; cloudy in the morning, but little down the valley 6 miles and passed overrain for the day. [The campsite was on some spurs of the mountains and camped the Coast Fork of the Willamette River, on the Willamette River, the handsomest about 2½ or 3 miles due south of Cres- valley I ever beheld. All charmed with the well. Very near the location where Pringle prospects and think they will be well paid had camped November 25th, one year for their sufferings. 6 miles. [On the Coast earlier.] Fork of the Willamette about 2½ miles 3rd. Continued down the valley, cross- due south of Creswell. The "spurs passed ing the river once or twice [What this over" perhaps were the foothills north ofstatement means is unknown] ,and at sun- Cottage Grove and west of the Southernset we arrived at Mr. Skinner's, the first Pacific Railroad and Old Highway 99.] settlers of the valley; distance 18 miles; Thursday, November 26A very cold,no rain.[Hulin had reached Skinner's rainy day. Went 3 miles and camped thisranch in present Eugene.] day and the next. Lost 2 steers by the 4th. Laid in camp near Skinner's all cold. 3 miles. [Camp was near but prob-day; very rainy. ably northeast of Creswell on Hill Creek.] 5th. Moved down about 4 miles and Saturday, November 28Traveled 6camped; day rainy [In the south Santa miles-6. [Camp was probably midwayClara area on River Road between Eugene between Goshen and Coryell Pass veryand Junction City]. close to Old Highway 99.] Thus passes the journey of lifeday Sunday, November 29Traveled 4after day glides swiftly on, and life is but miles and made a halt near Where I intend a span. [Here we say good-bye to Lester to make a location. [Camp was madeG. Hulin and his diary.] probably near Skinner's cabin slightly southeast of Skinner's Butte in present Eugene. Skinner's cabin, erected in the summer of 1846, is not mentioned by A portion of the reminiscence of an Pringle. Moreover, Pringle did not settle 1847 emigrant, Thomas Smith, will be near Eugene but in Marion County, firstgiven at this time. Mr. Smith, writing for near Stayton but later only a few milesthe Oregon Pioneer Association Transac- south of Salem.] tions of I 890 stated that he and a broth- er, each traveling in his own wagon, left the Missouri River at St. Joseph on May 27th. They met [Black] Harris on Bear LESTER G. HULIN, 1847 River in Idaho, Who recommended that they travel the Applegate Trail. Accord- M. [October] 31st. In about 3 miles ingly Mr. Smith turned into the Californ- we commenced ascending the Calipooyah ia Trail on August 23rd. Mts.; passed up one or two hills and "I had two reasons for taking the camped about 2 o'clock P.M. on a largesouthern route. One was a kind of spirit hill with good grass; distance today aboutof adventure, desiring to see what caused 7 miles. [From northwestern Scotts Val-such mishaps to the immigration of 1846; ley where we left Hulin on October 30th,and another was, I was expecting my par- seven miles would place him on the sum-ents to follow us the next spring, and by mit at the head of Buck Creek.] one of us taking each route and compar- Nov[ember]1st, Tues. Continued a-ing notes on our arrival, we would be cross the Mts., where we camped in thebetter prepared to give our parents advice

73 about the best way to come. Our com-not consider the sentence a harsh one pany [consisting of 11 wagons and 1 5which keeps them at a distance. men and boys, from fifteen years old and[The End.] upwards] got into the extreme head of[Signed] Jesse Applegate the Wilamette Valley Sunday evening, October 24th, 1847 [Lester G. Hulin ar- rived at the same place on November 1st], on as lovely a day as the sun ever shone The section of trail leading through upon. Although arriving at the extremethe Calapooya Mountains was familiar to south end of the valley I never halted un-Levi Scott who had traveled over it in til I reached Butteville [Some twenty oddJune when on the way east. Now, how- miles north of Salem on the east bank ofever, on approaching it with wagons he the Willamette River], and there I con-was met with a route where not a stick cluded I was far enough north. had been cut nor a blaze made. First he sent ahead a small party, by the Indian trail, to secure provisions and assistance in the settlements. However, JESSE APPLEGATE'S WAYBILL, 1848Enoch Garrison and Levi Scott were the only men other than the emigrants who Over the mountains to Wilamette val-worked on the road between Umpqua ley - 10 miles. Canyon and the Wilamette Valley. From the , to Willamette Scott would go forward alone for valley, thereis no scarcity of grass orsome distance, to view and blaze a route, watercamps may be had every few milesthenreturnto the emigrant working except as before noted. party and help cutting out a crude road- As the Emigrants may be days withoutway. By doubling teams at the steep seeing an Indian, the indolent and incau- places they managed to get neafly al1 tious may think there is no necessity tothrough that had by then reached the keep a strict watch over their animals. mountain. And the humane may think it wrong When the Willamette Valley was reach- to refuse a poor Indian a piece of bread.ed the emigrants were met by "a few To the first I would remark that it iswagons from the settlements" ("a few" better to spend a few hours every secondaccording to Levi Scott, but "one" ac- or third night in guarding their cattle thancording to Talbert Carter), loaded with to be left in the desert without a team, orprovisions. In addition these wagons had arrive in Willamette without a cow to giveleft tracks that could now be followed to them milk, the people here are poor andthe settlements. Therefore Scott felt his hard hearted. The humane I would remindtask was completed and he accordingly that gratitude is a sensation unknown to awent forward with a few of the lead savage. The beings you would tame bywagons. kindness will take the life of the living, or The winter rains had raised all the disinter the dead for the sake of thestreams, rendering many impossible to clothes that cover their bodies. ford. These the emigrants must ferry in And as they give only to those theyrude and hastily constructed rafts, but fear they ascribe your charity to the sametheir route was marked and had been motive. Fear in you encourages aggressiontraveled by a considerable number of in them. them seeking provisions with which they In 1846 Mr. Newton gave to a poorreturned to aid those behind. Umpqua some powder and balls to kill a A few families, as we have seen, re- deer; the Indian returned the same nightmained on Cabin Creek near Oakland. A and murdered him with his own ammu-few others, according to Scott, wintered nition. When you see the bodies of yourat the head of the Willamette Valley. deceased friends torn out of their gravesWho, if any, they were we do not know. and stripped by these goules, you will One man, Herman Buckingham, whose

74 Lees Creek (center of picture from Interstate 5) up which the Applegate Trail led from Scott's Valley on Elk Creek. The trail then crossed over to Buck Creek and down it to Pass Creek at Anlauf. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Present Interstate 5 north of Cottage Grove at the Saginaw overpass. The Applegate Trail ran beyond the Coast Fork of the Willamette (behind the trees at left). A camp site used yearly by the emigrants lay to the left of the extension of Cougar Mountain at right.(Photo by Helen Helfrich)

75 . -

Coryell Pass below the junction of the Middle and Coast Forks of the Willamette River. The Applegate Trail ran in the same location as the present off-ramp (far left) to Springfield beyond the high bluff (center).(Photo by Helen Heifrich) team had failed him, built a raft near theof the mountain a man named Durbin, junction of the Middle and Coast Forkswith some provisions on pack horses. At of the Wilamette. Loading his familythe place of meeting there was an abun- aboard he attempted to reach the settle-dance of wild berries [salal berries]. * * * ment by water. After proceeding aboutbut our hungry companions, not knowing ten miles his raft upset and everythingbut they might be poisonous, were afraid was lost, the family barely escaping withto eat them, as they made their distress their lives. They suffered extreme priva-known to Mr. Durbin. * * * Tool, of Mis- tion before reaching the settlements. souri, a large, portly young man, and a Tolbert Carter next continues his rem-very agreeable gentleman, and, by the iniscences: "In the meantime a wagonway, a Methodist. Dan Tool devoured a load of provisions had been brought toquarter of an acre, vines, berries and all. the opposite side of the mountain. A man* * * [Cross summit of Calapoias]. having a brother and large family in our "After resting a day or two we pre- party left our party at the river to crosspared to resume our journey. In starting the mountain for the purpose of bringingwe had to cross a swollen, narrow creek, a packload of provisions. the water being even with the top of the * * * About this time three men leftbanks. A notch was dug on each side so us, all on foot, with blankets on theirthe wagons could get in and out, and the backs, to press on to the settlements, asfather of Willard Linville made the first they could travel on foot so much fasterattempt, having in his wagon his family than the wagons could proceed throughand his mother, an aged lady. The driver the soft, muddy road. These men leftpartly missed the notch, only two wheels without taking with them a scrap of pro-entering it, and the wagon upset in the visions of any kind. * * * till the thirdraging water. Before all could be gotten day. On that day they met on the summitout, the aged grandmother had drowned.

76 [Crowley, mentioned before,sufferingmy flour in my wagons and went down from typhoid, was the son-in-law of theto the foot of the mountain with the aged Linnville (husband of the drownedpacker and the first camp I came to was lady)]. Lancefields who bought what flour he * * * [After leaving the canyon] thewanted, he had failed in getting his oxen company had divided into small parties,to pack so he spliced teams with Isaac the one I was in, consisting of seven orLebo and worked his way along until he eight wagons. got to the foot of the mountain. I ren- * * * About the fourth day fromdered him all the assistance I could in our mountain camp [Divide], Thomasgetting up the mountain and this was the Crowley, the sick man, died. He was thelast I saw of him until I saw him at the fourth one of the Crowley family thatMethodist Mission farm on the Willa- died in our train. mette." "[At Eugene] A small pole cabin was Mrs.E.B.Foster remembered: "We builtthe first sign of civilization we hadsaw no houses from the time we crossed seen in traveling 2,000 miles. The littlethe Missouri river till we got to Eugene cabin, without door or window, lookedthis was Eugene Skinner's house, and the homelike, indeed. Here several families,next house we saw was in Corvallis near whose teams had become exhausted, werewhere Mr. Avery now lives." going to abandon their wagons and were Mrs. Tabitha Brown also remembered: making canoes to make the rest of the"We traveled on for a few days and came journey by water. Had I not been situatedto the foot of the Calipos Mountain. Here as I was, I would have joined that party."my children and my grand-children came Rev. A.E. Garrison further adds:up with us, a joyful meeting. They had "Thomas Crowley died at the foot of thebeen near starving. Mr. Pringle tried to Calapooia Mountain. * * * shoot a wolf, but he was too weak and "[At] Calapooia mountain, there beingtrembling to hold the rifle steady. They no wagon road across the mountain andall cried because they had nothing to eat; falling in with several other wagons webut just at this time their son [Octavius] left them at the foot of the mountain andcame to them with a supply, and all cried all hands went to work to cut the roadagain. Winter had now set in. We were across, our old friend Mr. Scott the pilotmany days crossing the Calipose Moun- yet remaining and working like a goodtain, able to go ahead only a mile or two fellow. It was several days before we goteach day. The road had to be cut and to the summit but when we got the roadopened for us, and the mountain was opened up to it we returned and got ourcovered with snow." wagons and brought them to the summit, Walter Meacham, writingin1947, then took our cattle down into the Willa-continues in part his story: "The emi- mette valley *** we returned to thegrants had no matches, so building a fire wagons taking up flour with us which wewas difficult. Dry twigs, moss and grass purchased at the high price of Applegate,were piled in a heap and a shot-gun fired Here my brother Enoch met me to assistinto it, the discharge igniting the kindling. me * * and Jeptha as his father hadThe children were always hungry, and come to my assistance returned home,would smoke wood-mice out of hollow taking with him my son David, and nowlogs and roast them over the coals of the my brother takes hold to help cut thefires. They would also boil wild rosebuds road down the mountain and it did ap-and various leaves with the poor, stringy pear to me he was able to do as muchbeef to flavor it, for they had no salt. * * * work as three of us, * * * now I hear my "The Calapooya Range was much kind- old friend Lancefield was camped at theer to the emigrants than the Umpqua had foot of the mountain * * * here a manbeen. There was snow on the ground came up with a pack of flour taking outwhen the Smith party camped on the to sell to emigrants so I returned and putafternoon of December 1. As the packs

77 were being removed from the animals, in 1 849 following the Applegate Brothers and kindling and wood being rustled,settling in Yoncalla Valley. The claim was the party was startled by wild, unearthlylater sold to Jesse Applegate, who about yells. Thoughts of an Indian attack flashed 1850 sold to Charles Drain. At this loca- through the minds of the men as theytion a road was opened early in 1850, and sprang for their guns. The cause of theshown on the 1854 G L 0 survey, branch- racket was soon found to be Captaining to the west down Elk Creek to even- Henry Smith, who was standing on a fal- tually wind up at Scottsburg on the Ump- len tree, swinging his hat and yelling likequa. Levi Scott founded the town in a wild Indian. The reason for his outburst1850, which became the metropolis of was the arrival of a pack-train loaded with Southern Oregon, being the freight center provisions. The two young men who had forall Southern Oregon and some of left the camp in the canyon for aid hadNorthern California until Crescent City, reached the Willamette Valley and spreadCalifornia superseded it. the news of the emigrants' plight. The two branches of the Applegate "The effect on the party was varied:Trail, after rejoining at Anlauf, followed some cried, some laughed, some danced,up narrow and brush clogged Pass Creek some shouted to express their joy andCanyon, as have all later routes of trans- gratitude. The rations were dealt out spar-portation. These include stage and freight ingly at first that none might become illlines, the Oregon-California Railroad (now from overeating afterso long afast.the Southern Pacific), Old 99 Highway Strengthened and encouraged by thisand present Interstate 5. timely aid, the party continued its trek." At Divide, the summit (elevation 625) of the Calapooya Mountains is reached and crossed. To the south lies the water- shed of the Umpqua River. To the north RETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAILlies the watershed of the Willamette River "WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975and its fertile valleys, goal of the emi- grants. Between Divide and Cottage Grove the The original Applegate Trail, Interstatetrail followed a course now replaced by 5 and Elk Creek all pass out of Scott'sthe S.P. Railroad, Old 99 and 1-5, and Valley at the same location, the extremecan best be approximated by traveling northwest corner. Elk Creek is then fol-Old 99 from Divide, keeping west of the lowed for about one half mile after whichCoast Fork of the Willamette River at all Cox Creek is crossed, the trail and free-times. way continuing up Curtis Creek for one Through Cottage Grove, Saginaw and mile, to then follow up Lees Creek. I-SWalker, thetrail continued to closely and the trail separate after one half mileparallel the river to a point one mile south with the latter continuing up Lees Creek.of Creswell Butte where it divided. The The emigrant trail crossed over woodedwest branch kept with the present South- ridges to reach Buck Creek and followern Pacific Railroad and Old 99 through down that stream to again join 1-5, Old 99Creswell. The east branch, probably a and the west branch trail at Anlauf. Thiscamp road, continued to follow the west short section of trail between Lees Creekbank of the Coast Fork to rejoin the west and Buck Creek has not been followedbranch one half mile northeast of Cres- out, due to weather and lack of time, butwell, after which both circled to the east, should be done in the near future. running midway between Old 99 and the We now return to the west (but later,river, to by-pass Camas Swale. 1849) branch of the Applegate Trail at On nearing Short Butte, northeast of Drain. The town of Drain began as theCamas Swale, the trail passed west of the Warren Godell Donation Land Claim No.butte in the same location as have the 40 (T. 22 S., R. 5 W.) probably taken uprailroad, old and new highways. There-

78 after Goshen is passed on the east, as alsofrom Springfield is taken from the 1854 was the little butte north of the GoshenG L 0 surveys. The next stretch of trail interchanges. extending northwesterly into and through From this butte northward throughEugene is from the 1853 G L 0 survey. Coryell Pass the trail seems to have cor-This survey further indicates that the responded to a route now occupied byEugene Skinner cabin (the first habitation the Southern Pacific Railroad to the northencountered by the 1846 emigration) end of Willamette Street in Eugene at thewas located in the SE'A of the NE1% of southern base of Skinner Butte. LocationSection 31, T. 17 S., R. E W., or roughly of the trail between Divide and Franklinsoutheasterly from the present courthouse Boulevard westacrossthe Willamettegrounds.

CHAPTER IX NORTH EUGENE TO SOUTH CORVALLIS VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 trials sufficient to convince her that tears would avail nothing in our extremities. Monday, November 30CommencedThrough all of my sufferings in crossing making a canoe for the purpose of goingthe plains, I not once sought relief by the to the settlement for supplies in company shedding of tears, nor thought we should with Robert Lancefield and Isaac Leabo,not live to reach the settlements. The and continue our work until Thursday, same faith that I ever had in the blessings December 3 [Probably north of Eugeneof King Providence strengthened in pro- a few miles]. I then start ahead for beef,portion to the trials I had to endure. As on horseback, leaving the others to finish the only alternative, as last resort for the the canoe, and go down the river for flour, present time, Mr. Pringle's oldest son, etc.I arrived at Long Tom Bath [LongClark, shot down one of his father's best Tom River crossing, approximately three working oxen and dressed it. It had not a miles north of Monroe which in turn isparticle of fat on it, but we had some- 25 miles northwest of Eugene] on thething to eatpoor bones to pick without 4th, found it swimming, was detained un- bread or salt. til Sunday 6th in making a canoe and "Orus Brown's party was six days crossing in the evening met Orus Brown ahead of ours in starting; he had gone [Son of Tabitha Brown and brother of down the old emigrant route and reached Mrs.Pringle]in company with some the settlements in September. Soon after others coming back with pack horses to he heard of the suffering emigrants at the bring in those behind. I returned with south and set off in haste with four pack them * * * [To be concluded in the next horses and provisions for our relief. He chapter]. met Mr. Pringle [whoIturned about. In a few days these were at our camp. We had all retired to rest in our tents, hoping to forget our misery until daylight should Mrs. Tabitha Brown now continuesremind us again of our sad fate. In the her reminiscences: " * * * Provisions gave stillnessof the night the footsteps of out and Mr. Pringle set off on horseback horses were heard rushing toward our to the settlements for relief, not knowingtents. Directly a halloo. It was the well- how long he would be away, nor whetherknown voice of Orus Brown and Virgil he would ever get through. In a week orPringle. Orus, by his persuasive insistence, so our scanty provisions were all gone and encouraged us to more effort to reach the we were again in a state of starvation.settlements. Five miles from where we Many tears were shed through the day, by had encamped we fell into the company all save one. She had passed through many of half-breed French and Indians with

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I pack horses [The Brown-Pringle partyout a large canoe and leaving their wagon was probably one of two met by theand cattle descended the river with their Thomas Holt relief party on Decemberfamilies, * * * first of December * * * 8th and 9th]. We hired six of them andmaking my way as best I could down the pushed on ahead again. Our provisions valley with my wagon in the mud some- were becoming short and we were once times almost to the hubs. The first stream more on an allowance until reaching thewas Long Tom * * * there was a large fir first settlers." tree which stood near the bank which By the time Levi Scott and the leadby plumming with our axe handles we wagons reached the Long Tom River theythought it would fall across the river, so found the stream very much swollen bywhile the balance of the family went to the recent rains. Also in many places itslook for a tree to make a canoe my broth- broad low bottoms were overflowed. Theer and I went chopping on the tree but river was impossible to ford. The emi-the canoemen weakened and came and grants were compelled to dig out a canoehelped us. Finally the tree fell across the in which they ferried the women, childrenriver but it broke within about twenty and baggage across. After compelling thefeet of the other shore. There being a stockto swim across, they took thedrift nearby he and I crossed on it and wagons apart, floated the beds across,felled trees on our fir log and soon had a and then balancing the running gear offine bridge but then we had to unload each wagon upon the canoe, with theour wagons and take them all apart and wheels in the water on either side, suc-take over a wheel at a time and so on un- ceeded in getting everything safely over.til it was over, * * * " Tolbert Carter next continues his rem- Mrs. Mathew P. Deady also remem- iniscences: " * * * Long Tom * * * It hadbered: "One family of our party had to be ferried, and a ferry was constructedthrown away almost everything and had by procuring two small Indian canoes, afinally reduced their treasured possessions little larger than the wagons, with a pineto one trunk. This trunk came off the log made fast between. The contents ofhorse while fording a river and was swept the wagons had to be taken out andfrom sight and never recovered. I think it placed on, not in, this frail boat and takenwas lost in crossing the Long Tom, though out of the way for the next, and so onit might have been lost in the river near till all were over. the present site of Corvallis." * *'I was a boy, driving the team of a widow lady, * *'. She was taken sick the night before the crossing, and a baby girl was born to her. After receivingRETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAIL what attention it was in their power to"WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975 give her, they all crossed the river and left the sick woman and child in my charge. After passing the southern base of * * * Then with the help of theSkinner's Butte the Applegate Trail, ac- others, returned and took the bed oncording to the 1853 G L 0 survey, ran which they were lying by the four corners, about midway between the railroad and crossed and placed them in the tent I had the Willamette River for the first one and prepared for them. A woman and childone halfmiles, connecting with River had died the night before under the same Road near River Road School. circumstances. She was another member After following that course for less of the unfortunate Crowley family. Butthan a mile the trail seems to have turned the woman and child I speak of bothmore easterlyagain,parallelingRiver lived. [Mrs. John Simpson, of Corvallis,Road about midway between it and the was one of her daughters] ." river. The 1852 G L 0 survey, however, Rev. A.E. Garrison now continues:indicates an early road corresponding to * * * he [Lancefield] and Mr. Lebo asRiver Road. Both trails again join some soon as they struck the Willamette dugfour miles farther north, or about one

81 River Road north of Eugene and east of Junction City. The Applegate Trail lay be- tween the car and power line pole, but kept straight ahead instead of turning sharply to the left as does the present paved highway.(Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Long Tom River from the Irish Bend Bridge north of Monroe and east of Highway 99W. It was in this vicinity that the Applegate Trail crossed. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

82 mile south of the old Day school. Riverbeen crossings made in several different Road is approximated for the next fivelocalities between a point a few miles and one half miles, or to the sharp turn insouth of Monroe and the Irish Bend the road leading directly west one mile toBridge. Junction City. Once across the Long Tom River the At the above mentioned bend in Riverroad shown on the various 1852 G L 0 Road, the trail continued straight aheadsurveys was called "Marysville (Corvallis) on the Love Lake, or old Dane Lane Road.road to the Gold Mines," these being lo- Highway 99 East to Albany and Portlandcated in Southern Oregon and Northern was reached and crossed about one fourthCalifornia. It is assumed this road corres- mile south of Lancaster. Heading slightlyponded closely to the 1846 Applegate north of west, Highway 99 West wasTrail. This road either traveled the same joined at its present junction with Lingolocation, or one slightly east of the present Lane. 99W to Old Booneville four and one half 99 West is then closely approximatedmiles south of Marys River at Corvallis. to a point slightly west of Washburn Way-Between these two places the trail ran to side where the trail turned almost duethe west of 99W, or approximately on north, joining Noraton Road due west ofthe location of the Southern Pacific Rail- the northern bend of Ingram Slough.road. Noraton Road was followed for perhaps On the stretch of trail between Monroe one mile when the trail bends northwest-and Corvallis, one location in particular erly to cross Long Tom River at the Irishshould, probably during the Centennial Bend Road bridge. Year of 1976, be commemorated by a The 1852 G L 0 survey, however, doeshistorical marker. This location is the pass not seem to give an entirely clear picturebetween the two low hills called Winkle of the several crossings of the Long TomButte for a Pioneer family who settled River made by the different stragglingthere at an early date. It served as a camp bands of 1846 emigrants. It was more orsite for some of the 1846 emigrants, being less a case of every group for itself, travel-above the flooded lowlands as well as ing the best route available at the time,having some wood available. The Thomas due to high waters, rain and mud. Ac-Holt relief party camped there and Holt cording to the descriptions and distancescalledit"Scott bute," undoubtedly in given by different diarists, there may havehonor of Levi Scott.

CHAPTER X SOUTH CORVALLIS TO SALT CREEK, RICKREALL, AND SALEM In following the Applegate Trail "West south of Roseburg. The diary of Lester G. of the Cascades" we have made extensive Hulin ended near Eugene. use of the diaries of Virgil K. Pringle, Now, in this chapter, the stories of the Lester G. Hulin, J. Quinn Thornton andremaining recorders of the 1846 emigra- Jesse Applegate's Waybill. In addition,tion also come to an end. We here bid excerpts from the reminiscences and/or each a fond farewell because we feel that articles by George W. Riddle, Tolbertwe have come to know each personally Carter, Rev. A.E. Garrison, Mrs. Mathewand are extremely thankful they "made P. Deady, Mrs. Tabitha Brown, Mrs. E.B.it through" after overcoming such diffi- Foster, Joseph H. Cornwall, Levi Scott cult and trying situations. And, we must and Walter Meacham were used to carrysay, these were met at practically every our emigrant families along the difficultturn of the trail. To all, we say a final, and dangerous trail. fond farewell. The reminiscences of George W. Riddle halted along the South Umpqua River

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85 VIRGIL K. PRINGLE, 1846 have been relating. Upon his return at the head of the * * * and was from this to the twenty-emigration, Scott found that civilization fifth of the month [December] gettinghad begun to creep south. A man named my family to Salem, the weather all theLloyd had settled during the summer time rainy and swailQs of water every day. near the head of Muddy Creek, a tributary Left my wagon and cattle at the forks ofof Mary's River. This site was some 10 or the river [Probably a short distance north12 miles west of the Long Tom River of Eugene ata now unknown site].crossing of the emigrants. Farther north I would conclude this journal by sayingJ.C. Avery had settled during that same that I was well pleased with the societysummer of 1846 at the mouth of Mary's and location of Salem; was kindly receivedRiver, the beginning of Corvallis. and besides much indulgence granted me Arriving at his land claim, Scott found as I needed, but our living is poor. Canthat a "Tom Reed" had jumped it in his obtain nothing but bread and meat, veg-absence. A compromise settlement was etables being very scarce and we nothingfinally made and Scott received twenty but labor to give. dollars for his improvements. Reed kept a sort of wayside inn at the location for many years and became quite wealthy. This place was near the present Peavey Tabitha Brown: "There [Salem] ourArboretum north of Corvallis on the hardest struggles were ended. On Christ-Westside Highway 99. mas day, at 2 P.M. I entered the house of Scott continued on to Jesse Applegate's a Methodist minister, the first house I hadplace near the head of Salt Creek some set my feet in for nine months. For twofour or five miles north of Dallas. Here or three weeks of my journey down theduring the winter of 1846-1847 he helped Willamette I had felt something in the endconstruct a sawmill for Jesse Applegate. of my glove finger which I supposed to Tolbert Carter: " * * * Crossed Mary's be a button; on examination at my newRiver, * * * near where the grist mill now home in Salem, I found it to be a 6¼ centstands, it being at that place about 50 piece. This was the whole of my cashfeet across. * * * Here [on the north side] capitalto commence business with inwas found another pole cabin, more at- Oregon. With it I purchased three needles.tractive to us than a gorgeous palace I traded off some of my old clothes towould be now. * * * inhabited by a lonely the squaws for buckskin, worked them civilized'white' man, whose name was into gloves for the Oregon ladies and gen-J.C. Avery. tlemen, which cleared me upwards of "We left Mary's River, our company $30, *** from there consisting of only two wagons. According to Levi Scott, as late asOne of these belonged to a cousin of May, 1 845 there was but one settler livingmine, the other was the team I was driv- south of theRickreallRiver, Generaling. My brother, younger than myself, Cornelius Gilliam on the south bank atdrove the loose stock all the way across. the present site of Dallas. My cousin, being a man 35 years of age, However, it was not until June, 1846and all his life a pioneer, of course he be- after the first road-hunting party returnedcame manager of our little caravan. * * * from their unsuccessful mission that Scottthefirstnight from Mary's River we took up a claim seven or eight miles northcamped at the foothills, a sparsely settled of Corvallis and at that time some twentycountry, near the residence of H.C. Lewis five miles south of the nearest habitation[approximately three miles north of Cor- to the north. Scott was working on im-vallis]. His dwelling was another of these proving his claim when the second road-soul-cheering cabins. Next we came to hunting party under Jesse Applegate ar-the residence of Thomas Reed, ** * rived there and asked him to accompany[who] told of an unoccupied cabin [pos- them. This he did with the results wesibly that which formerly belonged to 86 Levi ScottI a short distance from hiswere camped nearby, and they had lost place, * * * we were two days, and part one of their number, so they moaned and of the third, making the journey fromgroaned and chanted all night, mourning Mary's River to this place, which is about for their dead. eight miles. "We went with my uncle to what is "[In the late spring of 1847] * * * now called Broadmead, where we stayed The widow and my brother were keeping with an uncle who had come here the year house together; for the use of her team before, in 1845. We reached his cabin and wagon other parties were furnishing December 17, 1846, and stayed there necessaries. The person I was most anx- two weeks. Father, who had come on ious to see was the little stranger who with the wagon, did not get there until came to our camp at Long Tom. Christmas day. After a week or so we * * * Now these letters will have to moved into a cabin owned by Henry come to a close, leaving my trip to Calif- Hyde. His wife was my mother's sister. ornia, as I went soon after harvest [18481. We spent the winter there. There was no I was in the first party from Oregon to floor in the cabinjust earth. There was the mines, remained there two years, and a big chest and mother filled this nearly returned to occupy my former selected full of clothing, and Betty and I slept in home. One year afterwardsImarried that. There were five of us children, so [Mrs. Martha Angeline Belieu, on August father fixed up some shake-downs for 13, 1852]. beds. We lived on boiled wheat and boiled Rev. A.E. Garrison: " * * * the nextpeas that winter. My mother got sick, so stream was Mary's River. This was also my Aunt Susan came to live with us and full; here we took our wagons to piecestake care of her. When mother got well and ferried over on the smallest canoe I Aunt Susan went to visit the Humphreys ever saw. The next stream was the Lucki- at Dallas. I begged to go along, so she mute. Here again we took our wagons totook me. * * * pieces and ferried on a canoe. It was late J. Quinn Thornton: "November 18. in the evening when we got over. The* * * we entered the head of the Willa- next morning quite a snow was on themette Valley. On Tuesday, the 25th of ground. Next stream was LaCreole [Rick-the same month, we arrived at the house reall]. This we forded * * * The first night of Mr. Lewis [approximately three miles after leaving La Creole we put up at Mr. north of Corvallis], where a little milk Applegates * * * and butter having been added to our now Mrs. E.B. Foster: "There were only rapidly increasing luxuries, we regarded three wagons of the train got across Mary's ourselves as having renewed cause to be river when we did. They had to raft the grateful. wagons across. We crossed in canoes. "November 29. Sabbath. We arrived "After we went on from Corvallis, we at Forest Grove, which is the name be- camped on the Luckiamute,tillMr. stowed by me upon a 'claim' in Polk Humphrey found a place for us to stay County,. * * * all winteras we wintered on the Rick- reall. "About hardshipsif you considerRETRACING THE APPLEGATE TRAIL driving cattle all day, and milking at night "WEST OF THE CASCADES" IN 1975 when it was so cold you had to warm your hands in the cow's flanks a hardship, Near thSouthern Pacific Railroad that was one we had all the time." siding of Avery, the Applegate Trail an- Mrs. Mathew P. Deady: "At Avery'sgled northeasterly for one and one half place, now called Corvallis, we stayed all miles to cross Mary's River (Corvallis) night in a log cabin. Mother and we child- midway between northbound 99W and ren slept on the floor, as also did somethe Willamette River. Near this crossing men who were staying in the cabin. Ithe emigrants encountered their second shall never forget that night. Some Indians habitation in Oregon, the log cabin of 87 8g Camp Adair S&te of the cantoitmlnt whvre these divisions trained duriq worldwar II

91st NANTRY DIVISION 96th INFANTRY OMSION POWDER RIVER DIVISION DEADEYE DIVISION R..ctivat.datcampWhltt 361st. 302nd and 363rd 361st. 302nd. 303rd lid. ml. R.qts 363rd (H). ft.qts. S46th347tt34bth 301st. S2nd and 921st lid) and 910th (L) TA Ons. TA Ins. Attach.d to Attachsd to Fifth Army. T.nth Army. ..syts and Italian Th.at.c from Roms Okinawa Invasions. N.'. throuqhout noithsrn Italy4Gun. Jam.s L. eradl.y, ida). Gun. Wm. 0. Uv.say, Commanding 0.n.raL Convnsndinq O.n.ral. 06 J.C. Avery.. master, November 4, 1854, of the post Through and northward from Corvallisoffice of Soap Creek, later called Tampico. the route of the trail seems to have beenHis first wife is said to have died some- much the same as present day 99W andwhere on the plains enroute to Oregon in the Southern Pacific Railroad for the first 1847. Hanna Ann Davis, born January 12, eight miles. In this distance two newly1833, was hisoldestchild. She was located ranches were passed by the emi-wounded by Indian arrows in Fandango grants of 1846. The first was that ofValley, east of Goose Lake near the Cal- Hamen C. Lewis, pioneer of 1845, threeifornia-Oregon State Line, on September miles north of Mary's River according to29, 1847. Falling face forward into the the 1852 G L 0 survey. The second ranchcamp fire, she was severely burned and was thatof Thomas Reed, formerlyscarred for life. It is said she always turned claimed by Levi Scott, but appropriatedthe right side of her face away from the by Reed in Scott's absence, seven milescamera when being photographed in later north of Mary's River. years. At the above mentioned point eight David D. Davis and three daughters miles north of Mary's River, we arrive atwere buried near the Camp Adair marker. probably the first division of the Apple-Their bodies were moved across the road gate Trail and for that matter, probablywhen that camp was activated at the start also the Hudson's Bay Company fur trails,of World War II. Later still they were used by Indians, trappers and tradersmoved to the New English Cemetery at alike. Monmouth. David D. was the father of To the right branched the lowlandten children, eight by his first wife and route, due north past the present Camptwo by the second. Adair Marker and through the towns of Hannah Ann Davis married Caswell Monmouth and Rickreall, also followedHendricks in 1850 or 1851. They lived by present 99W. This route in turn seemsup the McKenzie River, at Thurston, at to have divided somewhere near the Luk-Pleasant Hill near the Willamette and iamute River east of Helmick State Park,other places. Hannah Ann was the mother the right hand branch leading to Salem.of ten children. She died September 2, Returning to the point eight miles1904 and is buried in the Mt. Vernon north of Mary's River, theleft hand CemeteryatThurston, Lane County, branch of both old and present day roads Oregon. seems to have been the one most pre- From Soap Creek to Airlee, according ferred and traveled by emigrants and pio-to the 1852 G L 0 survey, the old Terri- neers.It kept around the foothills ontorial Road closely followed the original higher ground, avoiding the flooded andApplegate Trail for the first three miles. muddy lowlands. That it was probablyThereafter it closely paralleled the trail the main traveled route of the 1846 emi- for the next four miles but seems to have grant wagons and even much later ones,run about one half mile to the northeast. is indicated by its name on the U.S. Geo- At a midway point near the present logical Maps, "Old Portland and Umpqua Polk-Benton County line, or one mile Valley Road." It was also known as thesoutheast of the Suver Road junction Territorial Road. with the Territorial Road, there was a This route led northwesterly from thenortherly branch road leading to two dif- eight mile junction to cross Soap Creekferent fords of the Lukiamute River be- about one and one half miles due west oflow its junction with the Little Lukia- the Camp Adair Marker. mute. One crossed about one half mile Near here, David D. Davis (1810-1860),below their junction (southwest of the an emigrant of 1847 who traveled the Ap- old Elkins school) while the other crossed plegate Trail with his family, settled onnear present Helmick park, west of 99W. Soap Creek. By June 30, 1850 he filed onThese two crossings may have been the Donation Land Claim No. 4518, consist-ones used by the 1846 emigrants who ing of 310.1 acres. He was the first post-passed J.W. Nesmith's farm enroute to

91 Rickreall, or those headed more north-east of north from Dallas to Salt Creek, easterly to Salem. the home of the Applegate Brothers in The Lukiamute River was crossed bythe 1844-1849 period, thence northeast- the Applegate Trail and Territorial Roaderly to Amity and beyond, corresponding near Maple Grove. Thereafter for the nextto the old Territorial Road and early trails two and one half miles to Lewisville bothnorthward. roads coincide to the crossing site of the There is not enough available informa- LittleLukiamute immediatelytothetion to take any definite stand on which north. According to the 1852 G L 0 sur-route was the most traveled in1846. vey, the road or trail divided in less thanWeather and road conditions probably a mile after crossing the Little Lukiamute.dictated the route to be followed.It The left hand fork turned northwesterlywould seem the territorial Road route upstream to join present State Highwaymight have been the one most traveled by 223 and approximate its route into Dallas.wagons, if any actually passed beyond The right hand fork led due north upDallas or Rickreall River that first year. Cooper Hollow to also join present 223The Rickreall and Salem routes probably about three miles south of Dallas Whichsaw but little wagon traffic, if any, as of these two routes was the original Ap-during the late fall and winter the country plegate Trail is unknown. was a sea of mud, almost impassable to State Highway 223 in 1942 ran slightlythe jaded teams.

CHAPTER XI RELIEF PARTIES With the return of the road-hunters towithout friends or relatives among the the Willamette Valley it became knowndistressed emigrants, nevertheless had the that a new route into Oregon had beencourage and energy to go to their rescue. discovered and emigrants were actually The of March 14, making their slow and tortuous way over1847 now takes up the story of the 1846 its unbroken path. Further, the returnedemigration and carries it through to the road-hunters, realizing the difficulties toWillamette Valley: be encountered by the emigrants, were Thomas Holt, in company with five instrumental in sending out the first reliefhalf breeds and one Frenchman, started party. This party, led by John Jones, trav-on the 3rd of last December to assist the eled as far south as Rogue River whereimmigration then coming in on the south- they met the last party of emigrants en-ern route. They had a band of 34 horses. route to the settlements. The following is a memoranda of travel As time passed and further word begankept by Mr. Holt. to reach the settlements by those sent ahead to secure what aid they could for the beleagured emigrants, the settlers of the Willamette became aroused. SeveralTHE THOMAS HOLT JOURNAL, groups, some settlers, some relatives, and 1846-1847 some those who had traveled ahead to secureprovisions,were now traveling Dec. 4th. We crossed the Rickreall and southward to meet the struggling emi-traveled15 miles and camped on the grants. north fork of the Luckemute [It is as- Thomas Holt, an emigrant of 1844,sumed that Holt started from the Apple- was one of the settlers whose sympathiesgate settlement near the head of Salt became so aroused that he organized aCreek, north of Dallas, therefore this relief party on his own to go to the aidcamp site would have been about three of the incoming needy and suffering emi-miles west of the junction of Little Luk- grants. He became one of the few whoiamute and Lukiamute Rivers, and on the

92 former]. Some of the men started withvery nearly off. He died the next day of the expectation that I had provisions forhis wounds. The Indians robbed the tent all hands, and did not bring any. I did notof some articles and took an American take any more than I wanted for my ownmare and packed her off. use, as it was generally understood that Dec. 6th. Crossed Mary's river [at Cor- Mr. [John] Jones had started out [On hisvallis] : there is a small canoe here that we second relief trip] with fifteen hundredcross our packs in, and swim our horses. weight of flour, and some beef cattle. ITraveled nine miles [from Soap Creek] found out here that Mr. Jones had notand camped on the south bank [of Mary's started at all. I had two hundred weightRiver] ; there are five families with their of flour, and Rev. J.B. Baldroach, 100wagons here, and one family packing, cwt. flour and one bacon ham, which hecamped here. sent to be given to the needy. I found it Dec. 7th. Traveled 18 miles and camped necessary to get some more: I boughton the north [west] bank of the Lungtum twenty-seven pounds of salt pork fromriver [By the present Westside Highway Mr. J. Taylor. 99 it is 16 miles from Corvallis to Mon- Dec. 5th. Crossed the north and southroe]. forks of the Luckemute [The Little Luk- Dec. 8th. Crossed our pack over the iamute, or north fork, was forded, accord-river in a canoe, and swam our horses. We ing to the General Land Office Survey ofovertook Capt. Campbell, Mr. Goodman, 1852, about one half mile northeast ofMr. Jenkins, and Mr. [Blacki Harris, with the old Lewisville School. The Lukiamute, 25 horses and some provisions. [Accord- or south fork, was forded about one ing to the 1852 General Land Office Sur- fourth mile southeast of the junction ofvey, the main emigrant ford seems to thepresentAirlieand Peedee paved have been three miles north of Monroe at roads.] swimming and bad crossingthe Irish Bend Road crossing of the Long traveled ten miles and camped on muddyTom River.] They all tell us that they are creek [On Soap Creek, slightly over onegoing to the canyon [South of Canyon- mile west of the present Camp Adairville]. We have more help than Capt. Marker on Westside Highway 99]. We met Campbell, and we travel fasterhe started the first wagons here: Mr. Goff is herethree days before us. We met three fam- he is bringing Mrs. Newton in. Mr. New- iliespacking, and one family with a ton, her husband, was killed in the most wagon. They tell us they have had nothing barbarous manner. Three Indians cameto eat todaythe children are crying for to Mr. Newton and gave him to under-bread: we let them have fifty pounds of stand that he had better camp where heflour. Traveled 4 miles through a mirey was; if he went any further, he would notprairie, and camped on a slough [Near get as good a place, and accordingly heWashbourne Wayside, between Monroe camped. The Indians begged something to and Junction City on Westside Highway eat,and some ammunition, with the99]. promise to fetch in a deer; one of the In- Dec. 9th. We met 8 wagons and as dians could speak a little English. He gave many families, all out of provisions: we them three balls and some powder. The gave 10 pounds of flour to each family. Indian that could speak English loaded Traveled 5 miles and camped on the Wila- his gun with the three balls, and remained mette. [Of the groups of emigrants met about the camp. Mr. Newton suspected on the 8th and 9th, one must have includ- that all was not right, and wanted them ed the Virgil Pringle-Tabitha Brown par- to go away, but they would not go. He ty.1 We waited here for Capt. Campbell thought he would watch them, but heto go ahead with the provisions, as we happened to drop asleep, and one of the have no more to spare. Indians shot three balls into him: he was Dec.10th.Traveled14 miles and laying outside of the tenthe jumped in- camped on Goose Creek [Somewhere in side of the tent to get his gun, and one the general vicinity of Skinner's cabin in of the Indians got an axe and cut his leg present Eugene]. There are a number of

93 families encamped here waiting for assist-eled 9 miles and camped on Deer [Elk] ance:their teams have given out. Mr.creek. This is a very pretty valley [Appar- Owens,Mr. Patten, Mr. Duskins, Mr.ently Scotts Valley], but is small and Hutchins, Mr. Howell, and Mr. Burrowsscarce of timber. There is white and black overtook us today with 24 horses. oak, and some ash, but very little fir tim- Dec. 11th. The Frenchman and threeber nearer than the mountain. half breeds turn back this morning: they Dec. 14th. [Entries for the 12th and are afraid if they go over the mountain13th were omitted but included in the [Calapooya], they will not get back this11th]. Traveled 15 miles and camped on winter. I told [Jean] Baptiste [Gardipie]the north fork of Elk river [On Cabin that Mr. Beers [At the Methodist MissionCreek, one mile north of Oakland] ; there at Salem] expected that he would goare five families here. Mr. Kennedy, Mr. with me to the canyon, and if he turnedHall, Mr. Croizen, and Mr. Lovelen [and back, I could not go any further. He saidMr. Cornwall]; they have neither flour, that he did not think that the people backmeat, nor salt, and game is very scarce. had any money to pay for being broughtBaptiste killed two deer, and divided the in. I told him that if he would go, that hemeat among them. I gave them 50 pounds should be paidif the people was notof flour. able to pay him, that Mr. Beers would Dec.15th.Crossed the north and raise a subscription and pay him. He saidsouth forks of Elk river [Cabin Creek and that he owed Mr. Beers sixty dollarsCalapooya Creek respectively], both that if I would see that paid, he wouldswimmingwe carried our packs across risk the rest; I told him I would see thaton logs. Mr. Campbell met his family paid. [Q. (Quinton) Delore was the otherhere, and two others, Mr. Cornwall and half-breed who did not turn back]. WeMr. Dunbar. Mr. Harris and Mr. Jenkins came across four or five families encampedstopped here to help these families: there about noon, at a bute in the prairie [Cres-were not horses enough to take Mr. Corn- well Butte]. These families could not getwall's; he moved to the other family. Mr. any further without assistance. Mr. Good-Campbell left nearly all his property with man,Mr. Hutchins,and Mr. Howellhim. We traveled 6 miles and camped on stopped here to assist them in. We trav-a spring branch [Sutherlin Creek]. eled 23 miles and camped at the foot of Dec.16th. Traveled 9miles and the mountain [Probably near Latham orcamped on the creek [Newton Creek] Veatch, south of Cottage Grove]. Therewhere Mr. Newton was killed by the In- are three families here that are in a verydians. We saw a camp of Indians on a bad situation; their teams have given out,small creek; when they saw us, they run. and they have no provisions. Mr. Camp-Baptiste told them to stophe went up to bell let them have some flour. I feel forthemthey told him that the Indians that them; it is hard for me to pass them, butkilled the Boston man [white man] was when I know there are other helplesson the south fork of the Umpqua river, families among hostileIndians; I amand the mare that they stole was there bound to go and assist them. also. We crossed the north fork of the Crossed the Callapoia mountains [atUmpqua river in canoes [Approximately Divide] ; saw the carcasses of a good many one mile above the forks of the North dead animals todaymet two families onand South Umpqua]; the Indians made the south side of the mountain, just readyus give them a blanket for the use of the to take the mountain; they were almostcanoe; we swam our horses across. afraid to try to crosstheir cattle were Dec. 17th. Traveled up the south fork nearly given out, and their provisions allof the Umpqua 10 miles and camped on gone. Mr. Campbell let them have somea spring branch [In Round Prairie near flour.Traveled 12 miles and campedthe southern base of Roberts Mountain [nooned, somewhere on Pass Creek nearat the Gordon Burnett ranch]. We met Comstock or Anlauf] on a small creekthe last company of immigrants here, con- [Pass Creek] in the Umpqua valley. Tray-sisting of five families. They rejoiced very

94 much when they saw us. foot deep. Dec.18th. All hands busy making Dec. 26th. Traveled a mile and a half pack-. and camped on the north fork of Elk Dec. 19th. The Indians stole a horse be-[Cabin Creek] river. We find these fam- longing to Baptiste. Today we took theilies have had nothing to eat for four days, back-track. Mr. Owens took Mr. Crump'sbut a little tallow boiled in water. Mr. family, Mr. Patten and Mrs. Duskins tookBaker has three oxen that were driven Mr. [David] Butterfield's family and thefrom the settlement; he paid 75 dollars a widow Butterfield,Baptiste took Mr.yoke for them. I proposed to him to let James Townsend's family, Delore tookthese families have them. He said that he Mr. David Townsend's family. Thomashad lost nearly all his property in the can- Holt took Mr. [John] Baker's family.yon, and these oxen were all he had to These families had been out of bread fordepend on. These people are not able to more than two months. Their teams havepay him for themI thought it rather a all about given outthey are taking theirhard case that he should lose them, and empty wagons along until they get to thethought that under such circumstances, river; there they wifi leave them. We trav-the people in the settlements would pay eled nine miles and camped on Rockhim by subscription. I told him that if he creek [Possibly Parrott Creek]. would leave them, I would insure his pay, Dec. 20th. The Indians stole 3 horses whatever they cost him. He left them, and 1 mule belonging to Mr. Owens, Mr. and we divided them out, one to Mr. Ken- Patten, and Mr. Duskins. We pursued the nedy's family, one to Mr. Hall's, and one Indians so close that we got the mule. We to Mr. Croizen's family, and three quar- traveled 6 miles and camped on a springters of one to Mr. Cornwall's family. I branch [Possibly Newton Creek on thegâe 50 pounds of beef to two men that Garden Valley Road]. are encamped here, for an axe, and sold Dec. 21st. Crossed the north fork ofthem 10 pounds of tallow for one dollar. the Umpqua river [One mile above theI gave the axe to Mr. Townsend, it being junction with the South Fork]. The In-very cold weather, and he having no axe dians were very saucy: they told us thatto cut firewood with. Mr. Owens leaves they would not let us have a canoe tous today to go ahead. Mr. Duskins goes crosstold us to go and hunt a ford; theywith himas he has lost his horses, he can knew the river was very high, and it couldbe of no more service to Mr. Butterfield. not be forded. We had to give a gun, val-I let Mr. Townsend and Mr. Baker have ued at eight dollars, belonging to Delore,80 pounds each, of beef. I omitted to before we could get a canoe. We traveledstate that Mr. Burrows returned on the nine miles and camped on the north bank. 15th, and packed Mr. Lovelen's family in. [Holt's mileage here becomes confusing Dec. 26th [27th]. We lay by today to unless they had tried the Fisher Roaddry our clothes. This is the first clear day north from the Roseburg Country Clubwe have had since we left the settlements. as had the first emigrants earlier.] Dec.28th. Traveled6miles and Dec. 22d. Traveled 5 miles and camped camped on a spring branch [Headwaters on a spring branch [Sutherlin Creek].of Cabin Creek near Rice Hill]. This is Snowed all day. very slow getting along in consequence of Dec.23rd.Traveled10 miles andhaving to pack oxen. I let the widow But- camped on the south fork of Elk [Cala-terfield have a horse to ride, the Indians pooya Creek] river. We leave the wagonshaving stolen her horses. here. [Recordings for the next three days Dec. 24th. It took us all day to crosswere omitted by Holt.] the river. It is out of its banks. Drowned Jan. 1st [1847]. Crossed the moun- two oxen. Camped on the north banktain [Calapooyas at Divide] the snow [One mile below, or west of Oakland].three feet deep in places. I cached some Dec. 25th. Lay by today [Christmasflour in the mountam going out. I opened Day] -It snowed all night. The snow is athe cache todayour mouths water for

95 Present day Rickreall on the central route of the Applegate Trail. Used mostly as a summer or dry weather route, it was the shortest line of travel between Portland and the California mines.(Photo by Helen Helfrich) I0 THE WORLD!! J, Quinn Thornton, I-laying resorted to low, cowardly andidiiiorahlc nu'ans, for the purpose of injuring my character amid stantliug. and having refused honorable satisfaction. whichI have (lemmianded; I avail myself of this opport unity of publishing hiiiii to the world as H reclaiinless liar, an infamous scoundrel, a black hI(,arted . an arrant coward, a worthless vagabond and an imported mis- creant1 a disgrace to the professioii and a dishiolLur to his Country JAMES W. NESMITJI. OREGON CITY, JUNF. 7, 14

After arriving in the Oregon settlements, J. Quinn Thornton launched a tirade of abuse on the founders of the Applegate Trail, especially Jesse Applegate. As a result of his attacks, James W. Nesmith, son-in-law of David Goff, one of the founders, challenged Thornton to a duel. This Thornton ignored with the result that the above handbills were broadcast throughout the Oregon Territory.

96 RO.8cRT'..'W' fi OAfl BWF'tOL?JQfi-iOOtWJ Wi? E4 Ii5T C'Utfr.5TACE PMMD Ii' 1YEE, 5TCT[Ph7JES , - ;¼'.P45 FOOVftUG.12 188,;" V ..

Vandalism down through the years has caused the destruction of many historical land- marks. This marker, still standing, is located on the north slopes of Roberts Mountain on the old Oregon-California Stage Road. Built under the supervisionof Cot. Joe Hooker in 1858-59 this road served for years as the main north-south stage and freight road between the Willamette and Sacramento Valleys. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

97 some bread, as we have been out somethe Luckemute. time. Traveled 10 miles and camped at Jan. 18th. Traveled 8 miles and stayed the foot of the mountain [Possibly nearat Judge Nesmith's. Very cold and storm- Veatch orLatham, south of Cottageytwo horses gave out today. [According Grove]. to Levi Scott, Nesmith was then living on Jan. 5th. Today and the last three daysa claim on "Monmouh Prairie." He later traveled25miles and camped at themoved north to the Rickreall River where Skinner house [in Eugene]. We met Mr.he purchased a large tract of land. In 1846 Powers here, with three horses to assisthe married Pauline Goff, daughter of Mr. Butterfield. David Goff, a member of the Applegate Jan. 6th. Mr. Butterfield gave a dollarTrail road-hunting party. The eight miles and a half towards paying for Delore'straveled by Holt between the forks of the gun; he lies by today. We traveled 6 milesLukiamute and Nesmith's also indicates and camped on the Willamette [In thehe was keeping to the higher foothill land Santa Clara vicinity north of Eugene onto avoid the flooded bottoms.] River Road]. Jan. 19th. The horses are so stiff today Jan. 8th. Very cold and frosty; swamthat they cannot travel. I leave Mr. Baker's two creeksthe women and children gotfamily here, I took the best horse that I wet and came very near freezing. We hadhave, to ride to Mr. Beer's house [in to camptraveled 14 miles yesterday andSalem?]. I got as far as the Rickreall, and today. [In the vicinity of Washbournehe gave out. Wayside between Monroe and Junction Jan. 20th. I took it afoot this morning, City]. as far as Mr. Keyser's. I got a horse from Jan.9th.Crossed Lungtum [LongMr. Keyser, and stayed all night. Tom] river, swimmingtraveled 10 miles Jan. 21st. Went to Mr. Beers' today. and camped atScott'sbute [WinkleOne horse died this day. On this day, Jan. Butte, midway between Monroe and Cor-21st, 1847, I arrived at home, after having vallis]. Mr. Butterfield overtook us againbeen gone fifty days, undergoing many today. privations and hardships, but I feel that I Jan.10th. Crossed Mary's river[athave done no more than my duty. Corvallis] , swimming. Traveled 10 miles The public doubtless is aware of the and camped on the north bank of thehumane object of our trip. It was to re- [Mary's] river. lieve our fellow beings who were suffering Jan.11th.Traveled12milesandalmost beyond description. As the painful camped on muddy [Soap]creek. Mr.news of the sufferings was not to be heard Butterfield was taken sick and stoppedwithout prompting some of us to endeav- here. or to relieve them as far as we could. We Jan. 12th. Traveled 5 miles and re-succeeded in relieving many who must mained with Mr. Williams on the Lucke-have perished. Our party agreed to charge mute [North of the Camp Adair Marker].nothing for the use of our horses; and as Very stormy and cold. [Holt seems to beyet we have not received anything. And I circling along the base of the foothills tofeel it will be too great a loss on us as in- avoid the flooded bottom lands.] dividuals, to be at the whole of the ex- Jan. 17th. After lying by four days inpense of the trip. Therefore, I appeal to consequence of storms and severe weath-the public to know if they will not bear a er, traveled 7 miles and stopped with Mr.hand in defraying the expenses of the [Black]Harris [Somewhere near thetrip. It will not be felt by the many, but forks of the Lukiamutes]. Crossed theto be wholly defrayed by persons in as Luckemute below the forks, swimming.indigent circumstances as we are in, will Very stormy. Baptiste traveled on thebe felt considerably. 14th and crossed the Luckernute, and I therefore subjoin a bill of expenses: drowned one of his horses. He left theTo provisions taken from home $ 12.00 two Townsend families at the forks ofFor ferriage 19.25

98 Topork bought on the trip 3.12To Baptiste Gardipie's services 80.00 To horse stolen 40.00To Q. Delore's services 60.00 To three beeves bought and To sundry expenses 10.00 distributed (cash) 112.00 Total $426.37 To horse drowned 40.00 Thomas Holt 50.00 To horse died End.

Combined California, Applegate and Lassen Emigrant Trail rut south of Little Goose Creek in extreme Northeastern Nevada. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

99 Devil's Gate on the Oregon-California Trail in Central Wyoming on the Sweetwater River southwest of Casper. Compare this photo to one taken in High Rock Canyon, Nevada and published in Klamath Echoes No. 9, 1971, page 41. (Photo by Devere Heifrich)

Parting of the Ways, in western Wyoming. Left, to and . Right, Sublette's Cut-Off to Oregon and California, via Fort Hall. (Photo by Devere Heifrich)

100 Trails West, Inc. caravan traveling in modern day covered wagons, placing a marker along the old California-Applegate-Lassen Trail in Northeastern Nevada, during August, 1974. Originally opened by ox-drawn covered wagons in 1843. (Photo by Helen Heifrich)

Trough of the combined California, Applegate and Lassen Trails in Thousand Springs Valley, Northeastern Nevada. Miles in length, this channel was eroded by wind and water in the powdery soil through which the trail ran. (Photo by Devere Helfrich)

101 A Trails West, Inc. marker being placed along the California Trail near the Humboldt River in Nevada during August, 1975. Dr. Robert Griffin, 1975 President, Trails West, Inc., center. (Photo by Helen Helfrich)

Applegate Trail marker on Emigrant Creek at the foot of Greensprings Mountain southeast of Ashland, Oregon. This marker was installed by the American Pioneer Trails Association sometime during the 1940's, but has long since disappeared. (Photo by Devere Heifrich)

102