Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
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Margareten The 5th District
Summer hotspots Where to chill out
Wachau Valley Daytrip to the vineyards
N°10 - €1.75 vienna.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3
Contents
History 5
Arriving in Vienna 6 Getting your bearings on S, U and tram
Getting Around 7 Let the summer come at the Volksgarten Pavillon Plains, trains, automobiles
5th District: Margareten 9 Coffeehouses 34 VIenna's lively worker's district Coffee, cake & culture
Basics 10 Heurigen & Wine bars 36 Wine, wine and Wien Culture & Events 11 Open air festivals & wine tasting Nightlife 37 Bars, clubs and other dark rooms Freihausviertel events 17 Festivities in the Freihausviertel What to See 42 From imperial to contemporary City of Music 18 Vienna sounds good City Tours 47 See the city by bus, bike or boat Klimt year 2012 20 His life and works 150 years on Daytrips 48 Wine in Wachau, the Abbey at Melk Where to stay 22 From park bench to Park Grand Jewish Vienna 50 Synagogues, museums and a growing community Restaurants 24 From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ Children's Vienna 51 It's a child's world
Shopping 54 Whatever you want
Expat Vienna 58 Shop the world for less with tax free Tips for expats
Get those perfect items at the best prices, wherever Directory 60 you are in the world, with Global Blue’s Tax Free Vienna Districts 60 Shopping service. Just look out for our logo in over Getting streetwise 270,000 stores across the globe and ask the staff for a Maps & Index Tax Refund Cheque to get your tax back. Centre map 61-63 Street register 64 Public transport map 65 www.global-blue.com Venue index 66 Visit "Klimt. Up Close and Personal" at the Leopold Museum
vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 4 FOREWORD HISTORY 5
With spring now fully and gloriously upon us, and Starting off as a tiny village along the Wien river, Vienna is perhaps soon summer too, we can all kick off our Greeting from the mayor now the 10th largest city in the EU and home to many major Europe In Your Pocket shoes and rediscover the lush feeling of grass tickling international organizations such as the United Nations Vienna is a city of dreams. and OPEC. our toes. Vienna's parks offer just this experience, but A city full of life, economic Northern Estonia there's more – what about looking up Vienna's coolest Ireland vitality, efficient transportation, Russia summer park cafés; we've listed them for you on p.29. numerous modern buildings and Antiquity Ireland Latvia The locals are delighted with the warmer weather, and architectural gems. A city that Founded around 500 BC, Vienna was originally a Celtic the so-called 'Schanigarten season'; the reopening of offers people work and the youth settlement. By 15 BCE, the town had developed into a Roman Lithuania a wide range of opportunities. the café terraces. When it comes to culture, Vienna's frontier city called Vindobona, protecting the Roman Empire Vienna is also the city of green from Germanic tribes. Belarus wonderful Klimt Year just keeps on going, with several parks, calm, dreamy alleys, art Netherlands exhibitions to choose from; see p.21. There's more to and music. This city attracts Poland Austria than Vienna, and it's easy to escape the city people. Vienna is growing; life Medieval times © Stadt Wien/PID, Germany Ukraine for a day; to visit the unique Gugging Museum (p.44), can be felt on every corner and During the Middle Ages, Vienna became the residence of the in every street. Photo: Hubert Dimko Czech for example, for for a trip to the wonderful vineyards Habsburg dynasty in 1440 and eventually grew to become Republic Vienna is rightly deemed a city the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. in the picturesque Wachau valley (p.48). This edition worth living in, a model of providing medical and social of Vienna In Your Pocket additionally has information benefits. Hardly any other city in the world is as closely tied Austria Switzerland about the working-class 5th district of Margareten to both medical tradition and medical advances as Vienna. Beleaguered by Ottomans Slovenia Romania and suggestions for where you could go to watch the As the headquarters of international agencies such On their march towards western Europe, the Ottoman Croatia as OPEC, the UN and the International Atomic Energy Italy Euro 2012 football matches. armies were twice stopped at Vienna in the 16th and 17th Bosnia Serbia Agency, Vienna is also a cosmopolitan city of culture and centuries. During the 1529 Siege of Vienna, the city was Bulgaria Whatever you do this spring and summer, let us gastronomy - just as the “Vienna School of Medicine” lucky to escape defeat and was saved by an early winter Montenegro Kosovo know about any tips or comments you may have, became an international term, so too has Viennese and epidemics. A century later, the city's fortifications had FYR Macedonia via [email protected]. Enjoy Vienna. cuisine gained an international reputation. been greatly expanded proved their worth during the 1683 Albania Simply put, Vienna is the perfect mix: street art and the Battle of Vienna, when they helped the city survive for two Greece State Opera are just as much a Viennese pair as the months, allowing the army led by Polish King Jan Sobieski to Cover story Heuriger and first class cuisine. Internationally acclaimed assemble and defeat the Ottomans for good. exhibitions in the Albertina or the Museumsquartier are The 1950s Volksgarten Pavillon just as much a part of us as an improvised stage in It has been a busy start to the year for In Your Pocket, near Heldenplatz is one of the outer districts or the film festival at Rathausplatz, 18th century with a brand new guide published in Italy (Cagliari), and several excellent leaf-shaded Europe’s biggest open air cinema. Baroque was the style of the century and hundreds of many more in the early stages of production, including places to go and watch spring The rich spectrum of cultural offerings makes Vienna buildings were constructed or remodelled in the curly what will be our first guide in Belgium (Ghent). We have slowly turn into summer, with a leading cultural metropolis; one often hears the term Baroque look by architects like Johann Bernhard Fischer iPhone app “international capital of music” connected with it. On the also just launched a new version of our , a coffee or beer in hand. See von Erlach and Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. The local which can now be downloaded from the AppStore. our listings of summertime one hand, there are the many composers and musicians nobility started constructing palaces in the – now safe – Search for ‘IYP Guides’. hotspots on p.29. who have lived and worked in Vienna over the past few countryside immediately outside the city, resulting in several centuries. On the other, there are the Viennese music The number of cities we cover has now climbed magnificent summer palaces, such as Palais Liechtenstein 75 institutions with their grand tradition, which constantly and Schönbrunn. past , and the number of In Your Pocket guides keep this reputation fresh and carry it forth into the world. published each year is approaching an amazing five Vienna In Your Pocket: In the best tradition of the many Viennese markets, I can million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on available as a print guide, PDF download only say: have a look around! 19th century Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow Welcome to Vienna! Vienna became the capital of the huge Austrian Empire in us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can and a full iPhone app, downloadable free via 1804, and later of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, playing also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare. www.vienna.inyourpocket.com Dr. Michael Häupl an important role in European and world politics. The arts com/inyourpocket). blossomed, and classical music witnessed golden years. The rule of Emperor Franz Joseph I transformed the city in many ways: culture, arts and architecture blossomed, the city Adolf Hitler – himself an Austrian – triumphantly marched Editorial Copyright notice walls were demolished in 1858 to make way for the grand into town and spoke from the Hofburg balcony during Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Ringstraße boulevard lined lined with impressive buildings, the Anschluss ('joining up') of Austria in 1938. Vienna's Contributors GmbH 2010-2012. All rights reserved. No the city expanded to include its suburbs, and the Danube thousands of Jews suffered badly, harassed by both the state part of this publication may be reproduced river which caused several serious floods was canalised and anti-Semitic citizens, and decimated by the Holocaust. Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, in any form, except brief extracts for In Your Pocket GmbH Gretl Satorius and tamed. Vienna was badly damaged in 1944 and 1945 during the the purpose of review, without written Soviet advance, but largely reconstructed in the 1950s-60s, Axel-Springer-Str. 39, 10969 Berlin Research Paul Nogid permission from the publisher and with the city centre proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Layout & Design Tomáš Haman copyright owner. The brand name In Your Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 20th century in 2001. Post-war Vienna was divided into sectors ruled by Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm Pocket is used under license from UAB Vienna office Tel: +43 1 231 04 72 In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Industrialisation of and immigration to Vienna lead to a The USA, UK, France and the Soviet Union just like Berlin, [email protected] Maps IYP GmbH Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76). period of expansion. By 1910, Vienna was the sixth largest though the city centre was an international zone where www.inyourpocket.com Cover © Andreas Böhm city in the world, with large numbers of Czech and Jewish control was handed over to another power every month. The Editor’s note residents. The city was a centre of the new Jugendstil style occupation lasted 10 years, in which time spies from east © In Your Pocket GmbH / UAB In Your Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket from 1900, locally represented by Otto Wagner and the and west played their Cold War games. Pocket guides is independent from paid-for Vienna Secession association. Austria regained full independence in 1955, and from the General Manager Stephan Krämer advertising. Sponsored listings are 1970s Vienna became the host city of many imporetant Printed by Manz Crossmedia GmbH Production Manager Philippe Krueger clearly marked as such. We welcome all The Austro-Hungarian Empire fell apart at the end of the First international organisations, including various UN agencies, & CoKG Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt readers‘ comments and suggestions. World War and in 1918 the Republic of Deutsch-Österreich OPEC, the International Atomic Energy Agency and OSCE. Circulation: 15.000 copies, We have made every effort to ensure Advertising Manager (German-Austria) was created. Socialism quickly became The crumbling of the Iron Curtain in 1989 profoundly changed 6 times per year Stefan Bauer, Mario Böhm the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no popular and "Red Vienna" saw many residential estates built, the city's outlook. Many companies took advantage of the responsibility for changes and errors. but also shelling of locals supporting the socialist militia by prime location and nearby Bratislava in Slovakia now forms the Austrian Army during the 1934 civil war. an economical unit of 3 million people with Vienna.
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 6 ARRIVING IN VIENNA GETTING AROUND 7
City Airport Train By plane Car rental Public transport Vienna’s international airport is located in Schwechat, 18km The international car rental companies have offices at the Vienna’s extensive public transportation system, run by southeast of the city centre. After passing customs (for ar- airport as well as on the Ringstrasse near the main hotels. Wiener Linien (Vienna Transport Authority), is an easy rivals from outside the Schengen zone) and collecting your Rentals start from €80 per day. and inexpensive way to get around town. The U-Bahn baggage, ATMs, banks and tourist information can be found (metro) runs daily from 05:00 to 00:30, and non-stop on in the arrivals hall. AVIS tel. +43 800 08 00 87 57, www.avis.at. Fridays and Saturdays and before public holidays. Subur- To get to town, there’s a choice of rail or road. The City e-Carage tel. +43 1 532 4775, www.e-carage.com. ban S-Bahn trains radiate outwards from the city to the Airport Train (CAT, +43 1 252 50, www.cityairporttrain. Electric vehicles charged by solar panels at the garage. surrounding districts and towns. Trams are the best way com) departs every half hour between 06:05 and 23:35, Europcar B-3, Schubertring 9, tel. +43 866 16 to get around the inner city sights, running every 5-15 arriving at S-Bahn station Wien Mitte. The ride takes 16 11/+43 866 16 10, [email protected], www.eu- minutes between 05:00 and 00:30. Buses mostly serve minutes and costs €11 for a single trip (€10 with the Vienna ropcar.at. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun Vienna’s suburbs and most visitors won’t need them though Card), €17/16 for a return trip. It’s cheaper to take a regular 08:00 - 12:00. the handy night buses replace the U-Bahn from 00:45 to S-Bahn train, departing from the airport to Wien Mitte sta- Hertz B-3, Kaerntner Ring 17, tel. +43 1 795 32/+43 05:00 on weekdays. tion approximately every 30 minutes between 04:34 and 1 700 73 26 61, [email protected], www.hertz.at. The City Airport Train departs every half hour from the city 00:18; tickets cost €4 and the ride takes about 25 minutes. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Tickets cost €2 for a single ride, though it’s well worth getting center (U-Bahn Landstrasse/S-Bahn Wien Mitte) to Vienna Vienna Airport Lines buses (tel. +43 1 700 73 23 00, www. Sixt C-2, Am Stadtpark 1 (Hilton Hotel), tel. +43 810 a day ticket if you’re planning on using public transport more International Airport. The ride takes 16 minutes and costs viennaairportlines.at) depart every 30 minutes between 97 74 24/+43 810 97 74 24, www.sixt.at. QOpen than a few times. A 24-hour ticket costs €6,70, a 48-hour €11 for a single trip (€10 with the Vienna Card) and €17/16 05:00 to 23:00, stopping off at U-Bahn Schwedenplatz, the 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ticket €11,70 and a 72-hour ticket €14,50; a two-stop ticket for a return trip. The City Air Terminal in the city centre train stations Wien Meidling and Wien Westbahnhof and the (Kurzstrecke) costs €1. Tickets must be validated before offers travellers the services of an international airport Vienna International Center (VIC), taking about 30 minutes. getting on board. Tickets can be purchased from multilingual terminal. Check in your baggage up to 75 minutes before A single ride costs €7, a return trip €12, and tickets can be Driving & Parking machines at every U-Bahn station and on buses and trams, departure, get your boarding pass and enjoy the rest of bought from the driver. Parking in central Vienna is expensive; the 20 public garages though single tickets bought on board cost €2,20 and only your journey to the airport comfortably and stress-free. Takin g a taxi to the centre takes about 15 minutes. If you just in the centre charge up to €5 per hour. Street parking tickets coins are accepted. You can also visit the ticket sales of- The City Check-In can only be used with a valid CAT ticket. hop into a waiting taxi outside, the ride will cost about €45, (€1 per 30 minutes) can be purchased from news agents fices of Wiener Linien at the Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, The building complex above the train station includes including the fee for returning to the airport empty; it costs (Trafiken), the offices of Wiener Linien, many petrol stations, Westbahnhof and Wien Mitte U-Bahn stations. The 72 hour 130,000m² of offices, shops and catering areas as well €33 if you mention to the driver or dispatcher that you’d like major train stations and by SMS on the A1 mobile network. ticket can also be purchased at the Tourist Information Of- as the CAT terminal, and is currently Vienna’s largest in- the set price (Pauschaltariff). Day visitors to Vienna are better off using a Park & Ride fice. Children up to six years old always travel free; children ner city project development. Construction was started facility in the outskirts (€3 per day) and taking the tram or up to 15 ride free on Sundays, holidays and during Vienna’s in 2007 and is projected to be completed in 2012, with U-Bahn to the city centre. school holidays (photo ID required). The Vienna Card costs CAT operating normally the entire time. By train If you plan to drive on Austria’s highways (all A and S €19,90 and offers 72 hours of travel on public transport plus The new Wien-Hauptbahnhof (central station) is currently roads) you’ll need a vignette sticker on your windscreen more than 200 discounts to museums, concerts, cafés, and City Airport Train, M Landstraße/Wien Mittw, under construction, so in the meantime trains from Prague, costing €7.90 for 10 days, which can be purchased at more. It can be bought at the Tourist Information Offices or www.cityairporttrain.com, tel. +43 1 252 50. Warsaw, Venice, Rome, Ljubljana, Zagreb and Graz arrive petrol stations. from the Wiener Linien offices. at Wien-Meidling station, above the Philadelphiabrücke U- Bahn station. Trains from Salzburg, Munich, Zurich, Berlin, Frankfurt and Budapest arrive at Wien Westbahnhof, which is conveniently built on top of the Westbahnhof U-Bahn #ITY#IT# !IRP! ORT4RAINRAIINNCOMM L?;DD7I?=>JI;;?D= station. Trains from Bratislava and Burgenland arrive at the simply the best temporary Ostbahnterminal near the new central station, which is reached on tram D from the Ringstrasse. All these stations have luggage lockers and ATMs, and a tourist >EFED>EFE<< information desk office. L_[ddW9_hYb[B_d[ By bus All international buses arrive at the Vienna International sŝĞŶŶĂ^ŝŐŚƚƐĞĞŝŶŐdŽƵƌƐŽīĞƌƐĞǀĞŶŚƵƌƌŝĞĚ Busterminal (VIB), which has ATMs and luggage lockers. ǀŝƐŝƚŽƌƐ͕ŝŶĂƐŚŽƌƚƟŵĞ͕ƚŚĞĐŚĂŶĐĞƚŽŐĞƚƚŽ Right across the street is the Erdberg U-Bahn station, from Â) AM #!4 SO ) CAN ŬŶŽǁĂƐĞůĞĐƟŽŶŽĨƚŚĞŵŽƐƚŝŵƉŽƌƚĂŶƚƐŝŐŚƚƐ where it’s a 10 minute ride to the city centre. ŽĨsŝĞŶŶĂ͘ ENJOY 6IENNA ŚŽŽƐĞĨƌŽŵϯĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚƌŽƵƚĞƐͲRing, Danube By car and Schönbrunn ͲǁŝƚŚϭϱƐƚĂƟŽŶƐŽƉĞƌĂƚĞĚŝŶ Major highways lead from Vienna west to Munich, south ,ŽƉKŶ,ŽƉKīŵŽĚĞ͘WŽŝŶƚŽĨĚĞƉĂƌƚƵƌĞ to Venice, east to Budapest and north to Brno. Driving the THAT BIT LONGER± ŝƐ^ƚĂƚĞKƉĞƌĂ͘dŝĐŬĞƚƐĂƚLJŽƵƌŚŽƚĞů͕dŝĐŬĞƚƐĂƚLJŽƵƌŚŽƚĞů͕ 350km from Munich will take approximately four hours, on the bus or the 250km from Budapest are covered in three hours. ŽŶůŝŶĞ͘ When parking in Vienna, pay attention to the short-term ##IITYY ##HEH CK )N N AT 77IEEN -I- TTTE E parking zones in the inner districts of the city; using the well-signposted Park & Ride facilities (€3 per day) in the ININ OONLNLYY MMININUTUTESES TTO O THTHE E AIAIRPRPORORTT 1h outer districts and taking an U-Bahn or tram into town is a good idea. 13º By ferry The Danube river is increasingly used for ferry routes to Hungary, Slovakia and Germany. Ferries arrive at Anlegestelle Reichsbrücke near U-Bahn station Vorgartenstrasse. Twin L?;DD7I?=>JI;;?D=JEKHI lll#k^ZccVh^\]ihZZ^c\idjgh#XdbI )(&,&')+-( City Liner boats dock at Marienbrücke bridge near the Schwedenplatz U-Bahn station.
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 8 VIENNA DISTRICTS 5TH DISTRICT: MARGARETEN 9
For a slice of real Vienna, forget Viennese for Beginners all about Sachertorte Sissi, From the District 5 Mayor Strauss and Mozart and stroll Can’t find that strange word in your German dictionary? through vibrant, working-class Margareten is Vienna's Get closer to the Viennese by speaking to them in their Margareten, Vienna`s 5th district. most densely populated own lingo. Sandwiched between the Wien district. With so many river and the Gürtel belt road, people, there's a lot go- Baba see you Margareten was split off from ing on too. Living up to Badewaschl lifeguard Wieden district in 1861. Then still our district motto, "Joie Beisl local pub that serves food mainly rural, it quickly changed de vivre in the centre of Bierschtln to drink into a densely populated urban Vienna", Margareten at- Bock shoes area with many workers and eventually large residential tracts people from far and Fetzn to have a buzz homes. In 1869 about 54,000 people lived in the district; wide to its varied restau- Frucht a football the population doubled to almost 108,000 in 1900, and rant scene and endless Habara friend after the First World War many large communal housing nightlife options, helped Habschi boyfriend projects were initiated in Margareten, leading to the Gürtel by the excellent transport Vienna is truly the most international city in Austria, if not in Herr Ober waiter ring road being nicknamed the 'Proletariat Ring'; nowadays links. Located between all of Central Europe, hosting the regional headquarters of Kiberer policeman an 18-metre high glass wall with solar panels protects the the new Vienna Central many international enterprises, the UN, OSCE and OPEC. In Krügerl large beer inhabitants from traffic noise. Station and the city's largest urban market, the popular the central districts you will have no problem communicating Leiwand awesome Although the district has no sights apart from the flea market, Naschmarkt, Margareten is truly in the heart of Vienna. in English. Vienna has 23 districts, with the 1st being the Mahlzeit have a nice meal it has some very chic corners close to Naschmarkt, impressive Yet the former industrial and working-class district still city centre, N°2-9 wrapped around it and surrounded by Prost! cheers historical residential buildings such as Margarethenhof and has affordable rents, attracting both residents and the Gürtel highway. Districts 10-23 are mainly residential Seidl small beer companies, many in the service sector. You're welcome areas. Every district is attractive in its own way and equally Serwas hello to discover Margareten. important, generally safe for tourists. Tschick cigarette Kurt Wimmer, District 5 Mayor Ur-Leiwand very awesome Weißer Spritzer white wine with sparkling water 1. City centre Wuchtl joke impressive examples of 1920s 'red Vienna' architecture, The city centre literally refers to the very heart of Vienna. Zeche check/bill for example the residential building at Gaudenzdorfergürtel. In the mid-19th century Vienna’s old city wall was replaced 16er Blech a can of Ottakringer beer The part of Margareten closest to Naschmarkt is changing by the boulevard which in conjunction with the Franz-Josefs- fast, with new cafés and stores opening up young and Kai now forms a ring around the city centre. Magnificent international people moving in. Students love the area for buildings such as the state opera house, the Hofburg, the restaurants and cosy cafés where many tourists and locals its trendy bars, and the Wienzeile flea market every Saturday parliament building, the Vienna city hall, the Burgtheater, the enjoy a break. The Freihausviertel south of Naschmarkt in attracts thousands of visitors; best arrive early as vendors university, the Vienna stock exchange and numerous pres- the 4th district is the upcoming chic shopping mile. The 6th start packing up by noon. tigious buildings line this splendid boulevard. Most 5-star district, north of Naschmarkt, is known for its many gay bars. hotels as well as major sights are located here. Tourists will spend most of their time in this area, with everything !USTRIAN HOSPITALITY IN VIENNESE ATMOSPHERE more or less within walking distance. While Kärnterstrasse 6, 7. Mariahilferstrasse area and Graben are the two major shopping streets in the city Mariahilferstrasse is known as Central and Eastern Europe’s centre, Stephansplatz with St. Stephens cathedral is the most important shopping street. Since the fall of the Iron very centre of Vienna. Curtain, hundreds of buses bring shoppers from Hungary, Czech Republic and Slovakia to Vienna’s top shopping street 3ILBERWIRT to get their Christmas presents. A lot of interesting stores, 2. Prater nice restaurants and relaxed bars are found strolling around The city’s largest park stretches from the Praterstern the side streets. metro and train station towards the Ernst Happel sta- dium. Next to Praterstern is the Wurstelprater amuse- ment park. Some say it’s better to avoid this area after 7, 8, 9. Gürtel area dark. Leopoldstadt in Vienna’s 2nd district used to be Gürtel is the name of the highway ring that encircles Vienna’s the Jewish part of town. Today the jewish community is central districts 1-9. In the zone between Westbahnhof again growing and you will find kosher bakeries and a station and the Danube canal, the red-light district has number of synagogues. developed into Vienna’s hottest nightlife spot with dozens of clubs and bars, one after the other. Go and find a bar 3. Belvedere & Hundertwasserhaus that fits your taste! The third district is one of Vienna’s most desirable ad- dresses. Several buildings designed by Vienna’s most unusual architect Friedenreich Hundertwasser, as well as Belvedere Palace, the luxurious residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, are all located here. In addition, the district houses numerous embassies and foreign missions, hence its name – the Embassy Quarter. 6IENNA 3CHLOSSGASSE 4, 5, 6. Naschmarkt DAILY PM AM
This is currently Vienna’s most vibrant area with chic cafes PHONE SCHLOSS and people strolling past trendy stores and art galleries. QUADRAT You would not want to miss out on a visit to Vienna’s central INFO SCHLOSSQUADRAT Naschmarkt, selling all sorts of food and with amazing Take a stroll at Naschmarkt
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 10 BASICS CULTURE & EVENTS 11
but he has also been in partnership with Coosje van Bruggen a Basic data Electricity Exhibitions profound influence on art in public spaces with his monumental Austrian electrical current is 220v AC, and the country uses Until 28 May “Large Scale Projects” in numerous major cities worldwide. Population the standard European round, two-pin sockets. Urs Fischer – Skinny Sunrise MU Austria (2009 estimate): 8,356,707 Urs Fischer’s multimedia art, which is deeply rooted in Vienna: 1,705,080 sculpture despite the artist’s training as a photographer, Until 3 June 21,1% of people living in Vienna are foreign nationals, Money & Costs unfolds grand gestures with a pop attitude. Born in Switzerland Head 2 Head. Politics and the Public Image. 121,000 of them originating from former Yugoslavia, Austria uses the euro (€) with banknotes in denominations in 1973 but living and working in New York, the artist grapples In these (not only politically) interesting times, the exhibition 41,000 Turks and 28,000 Germans. of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose with scale in a sculptural balancing act. Whether playing with explores the subject of public images and political image building design depends on in which country they were minted, light and shadow, gravity, or materiality, Fischer’s subtle and – through various periods of history and across cultures and Area come in denominations of €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, striking artworks engage in radical spatial interventions that political systems. With a wealth of pictorial material, including Austria: 83,872 km2 €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. ATMs can be found everywhere in situate his work in the aesthetic tradition of artists like Francis political posters, film documents and artistic projects, the Vienna: 414,90 km2 Vienna and are the best way to get cash. Vienna is not an Picabia, Dieter Roth, and Gordon Matta-Clark. exhibition provides insights into the most important image- overly expensive city by Western European standards – and KH building strategies and the pictorial formulas they use. Official languages competition from nearby cheap countries keeps the price KU German. Slovene, Croatian and Hungarian are officially of for instance cigarettes at bay. Vienna´s status of a social Until 28 May recognised. democratic stronghold means that public services such as Claes Oldenburg – The Sixties public transport are relatively cheap. With his humorous and profound depictions of everyday Tickets Local time objects, Claes Oldenburg is one of the most important and Vienna Ticket Office B-3, Kärntner Straße 51, MKarl- Central European (GMT+1hr) popular artists since the late 1950s. Not only has he been a splatz, tel. +43 1 513 11 11, info@viennaticketoffice. Politics major figure in Pop art, performance art, and installation art com, www.viennaticketoffice.com. Tickets for opera, con- Longest river The current mayor of Vienna is Michael Häupl. Since 1917, certs, shows, sights, cruises and more. QOpen 09:00 - 18:50. Danube (357,5 km in Austria) Vienna has been (co-)governed by the Social Democratic Party with an absolute majority in the city parliament (except from Events - venue list Highest mountain 1934 to 1945 when the party was banned and mayors were Austria: Großglockner 3,798m appointed by the Austro-fascist and later by Nazi authorities). AA – Albertina Vienna: Hermannskogel 542m , Albertinaplatz 1, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, The Social Democrats currently rule in coalition with the Green www.albertina.at. Party. Many political experts believe that the rival Austrian AZ – Architekturzentrum Wien, Museumsplatz 1, Borders People's Party would completely dominate Austrian politics if it Austria borders Germany and the Czech Republic to the +43 1 522 31 15, www.azw.at weren't for the Social Democrats' unbreakable hold on Vienna. BV – Belvedere, Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27, +43 1 79 55 north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and An example of the city’s many social democratic policies is Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein 70, www.belvedere.at the low-cost Gemeindebauten residential estates which house GG – Gemäldegalerie to the west. , Schillerplatz 3, +43 1 58816- about 25% of the Viennese population. 2222, www.akademiegalerie.at Religion GU - Am Campus 2, Maria Gugging, tel. +43 2243 Roman Catholic 49,2%; no religion 25,6%; Muslim Smoking 870 87, www.gugging.org KH – Kunsthalle Wien, Museumsplatz 1, tel. +43 1 7,8%; Orthodox 6%; Protestant (mostly Lutheran) 4,7%; Officially all restaurants, cafés and other such venues have Jewish 0,5%. 521 89 33, www.kunsthallewien.at to provide a non-smoking section. While recently many KO – Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, tel. +43 1 restaurants turned into smoke-free zones, don’t be surprised 24 20 02, www.konzerthaus.at how smoky many bars and clubs can get. Most traditional KU – Kunsthaus Wien, Untere Weissgerberstrasse Crime & Safety coffee houses will have a smoking area. 13, tel. +43 1 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.at LM – Leopold Museum, Museumsplatz 1, +43 1 525 Vienna is a safe city to visit, and there's little to fear except Tipping 70 15 25, www.leopoldmuseum.org perhaps for spending too much on food and souvenirs. As MK – MAK, Stubenring 5, +43 1 71 13 62 48, www. elsewhere, avoid dark alleys at night and clutch your wallet If the service merits it, waiters appreciate a tip of about 10%; mak.at WIEN-TICKET or purse when using public transport or in busy places. at the bar or at the Würstelstand it's common to round up MU – mumok, Museumsplatz 1, tel +43 1 525 00-0, the sum a little. www.mumok.at Disabled travellers MV – Musikverein Wien, Bösendorferstrasse 12, tel. +43 1 505 81 90, www.musikverein.at Most hotels, restaurants and sights in Vienna are well- Climate MW – Messe Wien, Messeplatz 1, tel. +43 1 72 72 equipped for people in wheelchairs or otherwise requiring 00, www.messe.at assistance, and public transport is easy to use with its many Vienna has warm summers and cold winters with PP - Pory & Bess, Riemergasse 11, tel. +43 1 503 escalators, lifts and low-floor trams. The symbols below snowfall occurring from December to March. Spring and 70 09, www.porgy.at our hotel reviews which hotels are suitable. The city has an autumn are cool to mild. It rains or snows 10-15 days RO – Ronacher, Seilerstätte 9, tel. +43 1 588 85, informative site for disabled travellers at www.wien.info/en/ per month throughout the year so bring your umbrella. www.musicalvienna.at travel-info/accessible-vienna. 30 90 SC – Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12, tel. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at 25 80 SH – Wiener Stadthalle, Vogelweidplatz 14, tel. +43 Wien-Ticket Pavillon B-3, Herbert von Karaja- nplatz, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 588 85, office@ Purchasing power 20 70 1 98 10 00, www.stadthalle.com 60 SO – Wiener Staatsoper, Opernring 2, tel. +43 1 51 wien-ticket.at, www.wien-ticket.at. A handy box 15 44 40, www.wiener-staatsoper.at office in a hut by the Staatsoper, selling tickets for all How far does your euro go in Vienna? 50 Espresso €1.80 10 SZ- Szene Wien, Hauffgasse 26, +43 1 332 46 41 kinds of events in and outside Vienna: opera, theatre, 40 25, www.szenewien.com shows, concerts, festivals, sports events, musicals, Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €3.20 5 Rainfall (mm) Rainfall museums and more. You can also pre-book by phone, Bottle of local wine €3 °C Temperature 30 WL – WestLicht, Westbahnstrasse 40, tel. +43 1 picking up the tickets at the pavillion kiosk, at one of over Packet of cigarettes €4 0 20 522 66 36, www.westlicht.com Q Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec WM – Wien Museum, Karlsplatz, tel. +43 1 50 58 74 100 outlets across town, or at the venue. Open 10:00 Big Mac €3 -5 Public transport ticket €1.80 10 70, www.wienmuseum.at - 19:00. WIEN-TICKET events on Taxi ride across town €15 -10 0 WU – WUK, Währinger Str. 59, tel. +43 1 40 12 10, these pages can be recognised Litre of petrol €1.40 Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C) www.wuk.at by the logo.
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 12 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 13
Classical Concerts in Vienna Vienna Mozart Concerts Strauss & Mozart concerts daily in the Kursalon Wien In the very place where Johann Strauss himself used to direct his orches- tra from the position of first violin, the absolute essence of Vienna's clas- sical music can be heard daily. The Salonorchester Alt Wien presents an evening full of Viennese charm with the lilting sound of waltzes, polkas, arias and duets, as well as operetta and piano concerto melodies. Accom- panied by excellent opera vocalists and ballet soloists, Vienna's classical music reveals itself as a living firework display for all the senses. The Vienna Mozart Orchestra Vienna Mozart Concerts also fulfills the wishes of the Beginning of the concert: daily at 8.15 pm, Tickets: The Orchestra plays concerts with internationally Strauss lovers by performing the most impressing € 40-90 renowned singers and soloists - all in historical pieces by the Strauss Dynasty, such as The Blue Kursalon Wien, Johannesgasse 33, T +43 1 512 57 costumes and wigs and creates a special atmosphere Danube Waltz and The Radetzky March, from April 90, [email protected], www.kursalonwien.at in Vienna's largest and most famous Concert halls, to October on every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Concerts of classical music at Schoenbrunn like Musikverein Golden Hall, Saturday at 20:15. Palace Orangery Hofburg and Konzerthaus. In the style of "musical academies", as Ticket prices: The daily Schoenbrunn Palace Concerts have come to in Vienna concerts were known €45 - 79, VIP €250. form an integral part of Vienna‘s cultural and musical in Mozart’s time, the audience life. At Schoenbrunn Palace Orangery the Schoenbrunn enjoy symphonies and solo Bookings: Palace Orchestra Vienna and the Schoenbrunn Palace concertos, as well as operatic Wiener Mozart Orchester Ensemble Vienna present beautiful melodies created by overtures, arias and duets from Tel. +43 1 505 77 66 two of the greatest composers of all times: Wolfgang especially popular and well- [email protected] Amadeus Mozart and Johann Strauss. Listen to the known works. The Vienna Mozart www.mozart.co.at most popular operetta arias, waltzes and polkas writ- ten by the „King of Waltz“ Johann Strauss, including the world-famous waltz “The Blue Danube” as well as the “RadetzkyMarch”. The orchestra is accompanied by two opera singers, a soprano and a baritone and two ballet Contact & Information dancers wearing historic costumes. Vienna Mozart Concerts Concerts take place daily year-round except on Decem- in period costumes IMaGE Performing Arts Promotion, Orangery ber 24. Concerts start at 8:30 p.m. € 54-119 Schönbrunn, A-1130 Vienna IMaGE Performing Arts Promotion Enjoy a performance in original Mozart style at the Orangery Schönbrunn, Tel. +43/1/812 50 04, Tel.: +43/1/812 50 04, Fax: +43/1/812 54 24, largest and most famous concert halls in Vienna: offi [email protected], www.imagevienna.com [email protected], www.imagevienna.com Schoenbrunn Palace opening hours: April to June and September to October: 8:30am – 5pm, MUSIKVEREIN – Golden Hall July and August: 8:30am – 6pm; November to Until 10 June VIENNA STATE OPERA Gustav Klimt - The Drawings March: 8:30am - 4:30pm. See page 21. KONZERTHAUS – Great Hall Document pick-up: Individual guests are requested to pick AA up their documents at our offi ce located at the Orangery. From April to October We are open daily from 9:00am. Groups will receive all documents from one of our staff members right before the Until 17 June every Monday, Wednesday, Friday start of the program. Gold and Saturday at 8:15 pm. This large-scale temporary exhibition at the Lower Belvedere, the Orangery, and the Palace Stables is The 30 first-class musicians of the Vienna devoted to gold as a precious metal and its use in contemporary art. Numerous international loans, most of Mozart Orchestra and internationally renowned which date from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, opera singers – all in magnificent historical will be presented together with examples from the costumes and wigs – perfom … museum’s holdings. BV The Best of Mozart and Johann Strauss Until 25 June Hands-On Urbanism 1850-2012 The spring show at the Architekturzentrum Wien is dedicated Ticket prices: € 89 / 69 / 59 / 45 / VIP € 250 to the history of the idea of appropriating land in urban space. Since the shock wave of modernisation that accompanied Bookings: Wiener Mozart Orchester industrialization towns and cities worldwide have had to face 43 505 66 Fa[: 43 505 66-22 some very significant challenges. wwwmozartcoat concerts#mozartcoat AZ
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 14 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 15
Hofmobiliendepot: Sixties Design
august
weltallende 24 May-29 July 29.3. – 28.10.2012 Heinz Cibulka – Stadtquartette Heinz Cibulka developed his specific photo-esthetic form of expression in 1974. This was the year he created his first picture poems, from four color-images placed in a rectangular Am Campus 2, 3400 Maria Gugging order, a concept that would shape and influence his whole www.gugging.at Di–So 10–18 Uhr photographic oeuvre. WL
Until 1 July 6 June-7 Oct 16 May-16 Sept Furniture of all Kinds MADE4YOU - Design for Change Klimt. The Wien Museum Collection The spring exhibition at the Imperial Furniture Collection A singular survey of the wealth and beauty of Biedermeier A comprehensive survey See page 21. revisits the 1960s. Showcasing a selection of designer forms; a selection of 350 of the most original drawings of design innovations WM objects, it explores the radical social, cultural, political from the MAK's collection of Viennese Biedermeier furniture from global corporations, and aesthetic upheavals that took place from the end drawings, sketches and catalogues. as well as seminal 4 May-2 Sept of the 1950s to the oil crisis of 1973, painting a picture MK studies by a young The Circus as a Parallel Universe of an era that put an end to the drabness of the post- generation of designers. Clear the ring for the world of war years. ‘Anything goes’ was the motto of the design Until 15 July This exhibition developed acrobats, clowns, and exotic world during that era. Utopian, alternative lifestyles were Gustav Klimt: Expectation and Fulfillment in close collaboration animals. Presenting a number accompanied by a fundamental change in values. See page 21. with designer Hartmut of contemporary works of © Dominik Premauer The youth-led ‘consumer revolution’ in the early 1960s MK Esslinger emphasizes art, this exhibition offers an saw the rise of the teenager as consumer, synthetic the significance of design introduction into the universe materials for low-priced mass market products and the Until 27 August as a crucial factor in fundamental social and technological of the circus and highlights emergence of 'space age' design. The new fixed stars Klimt: Up Close and Personal transformations in the 21st century. a wondrous place full of of the design world were Italy and Britain. From the mid- See page 20. MK surprises and sensations, a © Eames Office 1960s the protest generation made itself heard, and LM place of poetry, but also of the various protests all left their mark on design - there excitement, confusion and unease. was a return to styles such as art nouveau, as well as KH new psychedelic art and design from West Coast USA. The exhibition presents furniture in ten sections, with All you need to Until 28 Oct pieces by Arne Jacobsen, Eero Saarinen, Verner Panton, August Walla: Universe-End Helmut Bätzner, Archizoom, Gruppo Strum and more. August Walla (1936-2001) unintentionally became an artist. Besides furniture design, there are fashion items, TV and know about where One of the most versatile artists of 20th century Art Brut: a HEINZ CIBULKA radio sets together with other everyday objects to convey genre of art that blooms uninfluenced by the official art world the typical flavour of life during those years. to sleep, eat, drink, and aloof from the art market, in secret. Walla’s entire life STADTQUARTETTE was one long process of creating completely autonomous, Until 17 June. visit and enjoy self-contained artistic works. Hofmobiliendepot F-3, Andreasgasse 7, 24.05. – 29.07.2012 GU M Ziegler-gasse, tel. +43 1 81 11 30, www. hofmobiliendepot.at. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Until 31 Dec Mon. Admission €7,90/5,50. The Batliner Collection Online Under the title “Monet to Picasso”, the Albertina exhibits its vast holdings of paintings from the period of Modernism, which are primarily made up of works from the Batliner Collection. The epochs covered by this reinstallation of the museum’s permanent collection range from Impressionism and Fauvism to German Expressionism, the Bauhaus, and the Russian avant-garde; the presentation concludes with works by Picasso. Mobile AA Print Concert highlights Entry Fee € 6/4 12 May, 20:00 EPICA Tour 2012 Opening hours: Tue, Wed, Fri: 14 - 19, Thu: 14 - 21 Epica is a Dutch symphonic metal band founded by guitarist Sat, Sun: 11 - 19, Monday closed and vocalist Mark Jansen subsequent to his departure from WestLicht, Museum of Photography, Westbahnstraße 40, After Forever. They are known for their symphonic sound and Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides tel. +43 1 522 66 36, [email protected], the use of female vocals and male growls. To date, Epica has vienna.inyourpocket.com released five studio albums, with their most recent studio www.westlicht.com album, Requiem for the Indifferent, released in March. Inflatable chair "Blow“, 1967; © Zanotta spa SZ
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 16 CULTURE & EVENTS FREIHAUSVIERTEL EVENTS 17
14 May, 21:00 Shantel & Bucovina Club Orkestar Cinemas Shantel, real name Stefan Hantel, is a German DJ and producer of Bukovina German Romanian descent, known Unlike most other Europeans, Austrians prefer their films for his work with gypsy brass orchestras, DJing and dubbed into German rather than subtitled. Thankfully remixing traditional Balkan music with electronic beats. His several cinemas specialise in original language screen- grandparents on the maternal side were from the Romanian ings. Keep in mind that seats are assigned and usually part of Bukovina. Shantel is an internationally recognized vary in price depending on where they are in the theatre. artist and his albums received worldwide awards. Artis International B-2, Schultergasse 5, WU M Stephansplatz, tel. +43 1 535 65 70, www. cineplexx.at. Tucked into a tiny side street, this Beograd's Garden Season party 20-24 June, 20:00 theatre screens 10-15 English-language films daily. Mondays to Wednesdays have reduced admission, Cirque du Soleil – Alegria Q Alegría is one of Cirque du Soleil's most popular touring and a student ID will snag you a small discount. shows. Since its premiere in 1994, it has been performed Tickets €6,50-9. over 5,000 times and seen by over 10 million spectators in M more than 65 cities around the world. Alegría takes its name Burg Kino A-3, Opernring 19, Karlsplatz, tel. from the Spanish word for joy. +43 1 587 84 06, www.burgkino.at. In addition to SH its permanent run of the Vienna classic The Third Man, the two-screen Burg Kino also shows newer releases. Freihausviertel The Großer Saal (large hall) has a historic ambiance, Few of Vienna's residential neighborhoods have changed so and €5 tickets are offered to students from Monday to 25 June - 9 July, 20:00 Q much in recent decades as Freihausviertel, a small pocket Jazz Festival Vienna Thursday. Tickets €8/6. of the city's fourth district bordering the historic Wiedner From 25 June to 09 July the capital of Austria once again M Hauptstrasse and the bustling Naschmarkt, and located focuses on jazz! Since 1991, the JAZZ FEST WIEN is organized Haydn Kino F-3, Mariahilferstrasse 57, Mu- just a few minute walk from the Opera House. Formerly a and in addition to jazz and soul, rock and pop music is offered. seumsquartier, tel. +43 1 587 22 62, www. neglected area with broken windows and closed businesses, Like every year at this time this festival takes place in the haydnkino.at. Easily accessible from Vienna’s main Freihausviertel has metamorphosed into one of the city's shopping street, the Haydn shows 4-6 movies daily most impressive venues in Vienna. most desirable addresses where people would be delighted On Wednesday 16 May the Beograd restaurant holds SO, WU, PB in its three theatres. Film fans planning a longer to settle down if only there were free apartments available. stay can shell out €50 for a Super Saver Card, that its annual charity event at the beginning of summer, Q Along the area's main thoroughfare -- Schleifmühlgasse donating all proceeds to the St. Anna children's cancer gets you reduced prices and other priviledges. -- posh boutiques and unique vintage stores blend with hip Tickets €7-9. research centre. From 15:00 you're welcome to enjoy 26 June, 19:30 restaurants and cafes; specialty shops and galleries mingle drinks and Balkan specialties from the charcoal grill. Ozzy & Friends with booksellers and champagne bars; young people enjoy Violinist Mosa Sisic will also perform that day. The Ozzy and Friends Tour is a concert tour that will replace their meals and cocktails, and street festivals are held to the original Black Sabbath 2012 reunion tour. Toni Iommi is make this area even more appealing. A scaled-down version Restaurant Beograd, Schikanedergasse 7, tel. not in the lineup of Black Sabbath, but Geezer Butler, Zakk 3 May - 24 June, daily except Wed, 19:30 of New York's Meatpacking District or London's Hoxton, +43 1 587 74 44, www.restaurant-beograd.at. Wylde and Slash will be rocking the stage with Oz. Rock on! Sister Act Freihausviertel today lures some of the city's most creative SH A musical based on the 1992 film comedy about a rebellious businesses and boasts great plans for the future. police witness hidden in a monastery as a nun to escape the criminals´ attention. English Theatres RO Fairtrade Breakfast How to get there Owing to a vibrant artistic community of British, Aus- Trade Fairs The Freihausviertel is just a five-to-ten-minute walk from tralian and American expats, Vienna boasts a small the city centre. but active English language theatrical scene. Many of All are held at the Messe Wien. the plays produced in these houses are also targeted Schleifmühlgasse is the main boulevard artery of this at schools, so classes of Austrian students practising 11-12 May district. The closest major metro stop is Karlsplatz their English are relatively common. Seasons are fairly WID 2012 (lines U1, U2 and U4). Trams 1 and 62 will also take you restricted to Shakespeare and the well-trod modern Vienna International Dental Exhibition. to Karlsplatz. U2 canon (think Tennessee Williams, Oscar Wilde and Neil U4 Simon), but enthusiastically produced. 6-9 June U1 Europerio 7 Vienna‘s International Theatre Vienna G-1, Porzellangasse Congress of the European Federation of Periodontology. 8, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 319 62 72, www.inter- Urban nationaltheatre.at. Modern American and British plays 12-15 June Hot Spot dominate the 6-8 productions this theatre does every year, World of Coffee On Saturday 12 May visit the Freihausviertel area in the though occasionally a comedy or classic will find its way Europe's ultimate speciality coffee event. Wieden district for the Fairtrade Breakfast, an event organ- into the season. Artistic director Jack Babb’s adaptation ised by Free House District Wieden and Fairtrade Austria. of A Christmas Carol has become an annual institution, 13-14 June You can eat delicious food from the Fairtrade label, enjoy so get your infusion of Dickens here. Q Tickets €15-25. Logistik/Verpackung Latin American music and participate in a raffle. There's Austrian platform for transport, logistics and packaging. Old Vienna coffee, Waldherr organic bread, Fairtrade Vienna‘s English Theatre F-2, Josefsgasse 12, fruit juices and chocolate at fair prices. For the upcoming MRathaus, tel. +43 1 40 21 26 00, www.english- Mother's Day there are Fairtrade roses from Klimesch. A theatre.at. Founded in 1963, this company stages stand informs the public about Fairtrade products and well-known plays by classical and contemporary authors. practices and performs a raffle with Fairtrade prizes. The Discounts are offered to students, and €9 standby tick- event runs from from 10:00-17:00 and is at (A-3) Kühnplatz ets are available 15 minutes before each performance. on the corner of Schleifmühlgasse; metro Karlsplatz. For Q Tickets €22-42. more information see www.fairtrade.at.
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 18 CITY OF CLASSICAL MUSIC CITY OF CLASSICAL MUSIC 19
Vienna has always been synonymous with music for centuries. Some of the greatest musical figures in history lived and Classical concert highlights worked in Vienna: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van 6, 7, 13, 19, 20, 23, 24 May MV Beethoven, Joseph Haydn, Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss, 2, 3, 14 June Gustav Mahler, Arnold Schönberg, Alban Berg to name a few Wiener Philharmoniker of them. Writing to his father in 1781, Mozart said: “Vienna Works by Brahms, Schumann, Schönberg, Salieri, Schubert is the best place in the world for my profession.” Because of a.o. the importance of these musicians the tradition is maintained in Vienna by regular concert events and festivals. Attractive 4, 11, 18, 25 May, 16:00 MV concerts are held every day of the year. But Vienna is also the 1, 8, 15, 22 June, 16:00 capital of the waltz. The Vienna Philharmonic's New Year's Wiener Sängerknaben Concert is the most famous classical concert in the world. It Chorus concert takes place every year on 1 January at the Musikverein and Haus der Musik always ends with the Blue Danube waltz by Johann Strauss 3, 4, 13, 14 May, 19:30 MV Junior. Another fixed attraction in Austrian musical life is the Classical music venues 16 June, 15:30, 17 June, 19:30 Vienna Boys Choir, one of the oldest boys' choirs in the world. Konzerthaus C-3, Lothringerstr. 20, MStadtpark, tel. Wiener Symphoniker For nearly five hundred years they have been a symbol of +43 1 24 20 02, www.konzerthaus.at. One of the three major Works by Beethoven, Respighi, Mozart, Luisi a.o. Austria. And, as ever, every Sunday the Vienna Boys' Choir classical performance venues in Vienna, the Konzerthaus also sing solemn mass in Vienna's Hofburg chapel, continuing a offers a comprehensive programme of jazz, rock, contemporary 13 May, 19:30 KO tradition unbroken since 1498. and world music, as well as lectures and discussions. Built in Hilary Hahn – violin 1913, the building itself is relatively new by Austrian standards, Works by: Bach, Beethoven, Brahms Seilerstätte 30 and contains four acoustically separated performance spaces, www.hdm.at allowing multiple simultaneous events for up to 4,000 audience 20, 21 May, 19:30 KO members. And, though most of its pipes are hidden from view, London Symphony Orchestra Tel. +43 1 513 48 50 the Großer Saal (or Great Hall) boasts the largest pipe organ in Conductor: Valery Gergiev, Works by Tschaikowsky Open daily 10:00-22:00 Austria. Q Performances daily, times vary. Tickets €18-79, €12 for students 30 minutes prior to performances. 22 May, 19:30 KO Murray Perahia – piano recital Musikverein B-3, Bösendorferstr. 12, MKarlsplatz, Haus der Musik tel. +43 1 505 81 90, www.musikverein.at. Home of the 17 June, 19:30 KO & Mozarthaus Vienna famous Vienna Philharmonic orchestra, this concert venue András Schiff – piano recital ranks among the world’s superior performance spaces. Visit two of Vienna‘s musical highlights on Renowned for the ideal acoustics produced by its coffered one reduced ticket! ceiling, the Goldener Saal (Golden Hall) is the largest of the Opera & Ballet highlights structure’s seven venues, and hosts the traditional Vienna 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, May, 19:30 SO , experience Mozart‘s In the Mozarthaus Vienna New Year’s Concert, televised to an estimated audience of 50 La Fille du régiment (Gaetano Donizetti) million people worldwide. You’ll only experience the cream of Conductor: Bruno Campanella, Direction: Laurent Pelly world of music and discover new aspects of his the crop here - the Vienna Boys’ Choir appears frequently in work. Learn details of family life in the musical choral works, and the stars of the classical music firmament 2, 5, 9 May, 19:30 SO genius‘ only remaining apartment in Vienna. Q Haus der Musik interactive sound aspire to shine on this stage. Performances daily except Der fliegende Holländer (Richard Wagner) The entertaining in mid-July, times vary. Tickets €5-79, standing room €4-6. Conductor: Daniel Harding, Direction: Christine Mielitz museum hosts the Vienna Philharmonic Museum. Tours in English Mon-Sat 13:00, tickets €5. Both worlds of sound are fun to visit for young and 8, 11, 14, 17 May, 19:30 SO M old, and can be visited with a 17 euro combi-ticket, Staatsoper (State Opera) B-3, Opernring 2, Karl- La traviata (Giuseppe Verdi) available from either museum, or via Wien-Ticket. splatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, www.wiener-staatsoper. Conductor: Marco Armiliato, Direction: Jean-Francois Sivadier Music museums at. As the foremost opera venue in the world’s classical music Haus der Musik B-3, Seilerstätte 30, MKarlsplatz, capital, Vienna’s Staatsoper is not to be missed. Productions 20, 23, 26, 30 May, 2 June, 19:30 SO tel. +43 1 513 48 50, [email protected], www.hdm.at. A here are compellingly modern and surprisingly accessible, so Carmen (Georges Bizet) Mozarthaus Vienna large hands-on museum dedicated to a wide array of ap- expect a full house (even for those five-hour Wagner marathons). Conductor: Bertrand de Billy, Direction: Franco Zeffirelli proaches to music, and most of all to the experience of Standing room tickets cost less than a cup of coffee and can music. On the first floor, the Vienna Philharmonic presents be purchased up to an hour before the performance. Bring a 25, 29, 31 May, 3, 15, 17, 19 June, 19:30 SO original documents from their long history. An excellent scarf to mark your spot on the railing, and read along in English Don Quixote-Ballet (Marius Petipa, Rudolf Nurejew) place to visit to see how Vienna’s rich musical heritage on your own subtitle screen. As for the dress code, it depends Conductor: Kevin Rhodes links in with its bright musical future. QOpen 10:00 - on where you’re sitting: sneakers are an absolute no-go, but 22:00. Admission €10/8,50/5,50. Combined ticket with nicer jeans are passable in the upper balconies. If you spring 1, 5, 8, 11 June, 19:30 SO Mozarthaus €15. for seats on the parterre (main floor), expect to be surrounded La Cenerentola (Gioachino Rossini) by more formal attire. Q Performances daily except in July and Conductor: Jesús López-Cobos, Direction: Sven-Eric Bechtolf Mozarthaus Vienna B-2, Domgasse 5, MStephans- August, times vary. Tickets €10-192, standing room €3,50/2. platz, tel. +43 1 512 17 91, info@mozarthausvienna. Tours offered most days at 14:00 and 15:00; tickets €5/2, or 6, 9, 12 June, 19:30 SO at, www.mozarthausvienna.at. A centre devoted to the €6,50/3,50 with a combined Theatre Museum ticket. Tosca (Giacomo Puccini) life and works of Austria’s musical genius, housed in the last Conductor: Dan Ettinger, Direction: Margarethe Wallmann remaining of Mozart’s apartments. The composer lived here in grand style from 1784 to 1787, with four large rooms, two 9, 13, 18, 22, 26, 30 June, 19:30 SO smaller ones and a kitchen. In addition to the historical Mo- Tristan und Isolde (Richard Wagner) zart apartment visitors can find out about the times in which Conductor: Franz Welser-Möst, Direction: David McVicar Domgasse 5 Mozart lived and his most important works. The exhibition www.mozarthausvienna.at focuses on his years in Vienna, which marked a high point 21, 25, 28 June, 19:30 SO Tel. +43 1 512 17 91 in his creativity. The centre also has a shop, a café and a Roméo et Juliette (Charles Gounod) Open daily 10:00-19:00 concert hall. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €10/8/3. Conductor: Plácido Domingo, Direction: Jürgen Flimm Combined ticket with Haus der Musik €17. Mozarthaus Vienna
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 20 KLIMT YEAR 2012 KLIMT YEAR 2012 21
Klimt: Up Close and Personal GUSTAV KLIMT EXPECTATION AND FULFILLMENT 21 MARCH –15 JULY 2012
Until 27 August © MAK/Georg Mayer The Leopold Museum dedicates the unusual exhibi- tion “Klimt: Up Close and Personal; Images - Letters - Insights” to this most-celebrated Austrian artist. MAK STUBENRING 5, VIENNA 1, AUSTRIA The exhibition's main focus is on the main works from the Leopold Museum’s own extensive Klimt TUE 10 A.M.–10 P.M., WED–SUN 10 A.M.–6 P.M. collection, supplemented by loans from important MAK.AT FREE ADMISSION ON TUESDAYS 6–10 P.M. Austrian and international collections. Klimt’s works are accompanied with remarks made by the artist himself, commenting on his own paintings. A row of display cabinets winds its way around the exhibition, In addition to the 22 original paintings displayed the containing the approximately 400 written documents © Belvedere Belvedere (the world’s largest Klimt collection, which includes Klimt Year 2012 Exhibitions sent by Klimt to his life companion Emilie Flöge. The his most famous work, The Kiss), special exhibitions can be exhibition is complemented by numerous contempo- In commemoration of the 150th anniversary of the seen at the Albertina, Wien Museum, Leopold, Museum of See also the "Klimt: Up close and personal" exhibition, rary portrait photographs, and a reconstruction of renowned artist’s birth, Vienna is turning 2012 into a Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum), and Austrian Theatre opposite. Klimt’s studio, his special retreat, and thus succeeds grand, citywide spectacle dedicated to the life and works of Museum (Österreichisches Theatermuseum). in painting a vivid picture of this multifaceted artist’s Gustav Klimt. His unmistakable style – strongly symbolist Until 10 June life around 1900. and daringly erotic – inspired an explosive departure Gustav Klimt – The Drawings from the traditionalism of the late 19th and early 20th The great popularity of the illustrator Gustav Klimt is pri- century. Rejecting the aesthetic principles of the Austrian marily based on the intoxicating sensuality of his female Artists’ Society, Klimt led the establishment of Vienna’s nude studies. This exhibition memorably visualises just Secession. This museum, once ridiculed as a “golden how complex his draughtsmanship really is. cabbage head” and “temple of tree frogs” now graces the Albertina back of every fifty-cent euro coin minted in Austria, and has remained dedicated to the exhibition of the works of young Until 15 July iconoclasts for more than 100 years. Meanwhile, Vienna Gustav Klimt: Expectation and Fulfillment has become the epicenter of a global artistic movement The MAK exhibits Klimt's cartoons for the mosaic frieze in known as Jugendstil, a modernist aesthetic synonymous the dining hall of Stoclet House, Brussels, following several with Art Nouveau, and still visible in facades and fixtures years of restoration. The exhibition provides new insights throughout Vienna. into the genesis of this world-famous work of art as well as Klimt’s style of working, and includes the Stoclet family as From October 2011 until the end of 2012, museums and important patrons of the Wiener Werkstätte. historical sites throughout Vienna will feature special MAK exhibitions highlighting the artist’s works and times. In addition to documents and other contemporary objects 16 May-16 Sept displayed at the National Library (Nationalbibliothek), Klimt. The Wien Museum Collection Künstlerhaus, Austrian Folklore Museum (Museum The Wien Museum's Klimt collection is the biggest and für Volkskunde) and Austrian Museum of Applied Arts most varied of its kind in the world. Incorporating all the (MAK), Klimt’s last studio, restored to its original periods of his work, the collection spans from his days as 1918 working state, will provide visitors with an a student and his first major commissions in the 1880s Leopold Museum, G-3, Museumsplatz 1, M Mu- authentic, personal look at the artist’s working and right up to one year before his death in 1918, including seumsquartier, www.leopoldmuseum.org, tel. +43 home environment. Even the newly-opened Madame two of his absolute masterpieces, the painting Pallas 1 52 57 00. Open 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 10:00 – 21:00. Tussaud’s features a lifelike Gustav Klimt wax figure. Of Athene and the portrait of Emilie Flöge. Tue closed. course, no Klimt Year visit would be complete without Wien Museum seeing his works themselves. Gustav Klimt mit Katze, 1911, Moriz Nähr © Wien Museum
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 22 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 23
Pakat Suites Hotel H-4, Mommsengasse 5, MM Symbol key Meet the receptionist Südtiroler Platz, tel. +43 1 504 66 900, reservierung@ P A pakatsuites.com, www.pakatsuites.at. Located in the Air conditioning Credit cards accepted Together with In Your embassy district, this hotel boasts chic and comfortable O H Pocket, Vienna's hotel con- design, combining great materials with great looks. You’ll Casino Conference facilities cierges and receptionists T U certainly look forward to spending the night here at the end Child friendly Facilities for the disabled are important sources of of a long day. Just across the street, the hotel restaurant information for travellers. Q R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking Diverso serves great Mediterranean food. suites from They will also be able to €120. PbTAUGKW F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms give you restaurant and sightseeing tips, and may M K Restaurant M Nearest U/S-Bahn station Sacher B-3, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, Karlsplatz, tel. book event tickets for you. +43 1 51 45 60, [email protected], www.sacher.com. D C Sauna Swimming pool In this issue we speak with Lucas Galanulis, receptionist at The famous Sacher Hotel was first opened in 1876 by Eduard the Pentahotel Vienna (www.pentahotels.com). Mr. Galanu- Sacher. Since 1934 the Gürtler family has owned it, working lis has always been interested in dealing with international hard to preserve the tradition and elegance. The hotel is widely Many of the big, traditional hotels are located near the guests, and liked the international career perspectives Pakat Suites Hotel known for providing scenery for The Third Man film and for its Ringstrasse, which circles Vienna´s city centre. The room that the hotel industry offers; he worked at the Pentahotel Sachertorte chocolate cake. The red-clad doormen will usher prices that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may be Braunschweig and Wiesbaden before coming to Vienna. Hotel am Parkring C-2, Parkring 12, MStubentor, you inside, where you can admire the imperial grandeur, dating different depending on the season, holidays, weekend offers, tel. +43 1 51 48 00, [email protected], back to the times of Prince Metternich. Q 152 rooms (doubles and special events. This makes our hotel special... The relaxed atmo- www.schick-hotels.com. Here you can overlook Vienna in €465-678, suites €820-2,540). PARGKW sphere – there's no rigid reception situation; guests a single glance. This four-star hotel is located on the upper are checked in right at the bar, the staff is young and floors of the famous Gartenbauhochhaus on the Ringstrasse, Stefanie C-1, Taborstr. 12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 Hotels professional, so staying at our stylish hotel becomes which encircles the city centre, meaning the rooms and suites 1 21 15 00, [email protected], www.schick- Altstadt Vienna F-3, Kirchengasse 41, MVolksthe- an experience to remember. offer superb panoramic views of Vienna. You’ll be thrilled hotels.com. The elegant four-star Stefanie is just a stone’s ater, tel. +43 1 522 66 66, [email protected], www. by the friendly service and modern, comfortably furnished throw from central Vienna’s sights and attractions. With more altstadt.at. The Altstadt is a meeting place for artists, Strange guests’ requests... One guest unblinkingly rooms. Q 58 rooms (singles €98-113, doubles €135-165, than 300 years of history, it manages to combine traditional musicians and travellers looking for a characteristic hotel booked a room for himself plus his 21 cats. suites €190-220). PAUGKW Viennese charm and modern hotel comforts very well. The with good service. Art can be found all over the hotel, from remarkable architecture and its central location make it the reception and the rooms to the exhibitions in the Red Special restaurants I recommend... There's the fancy Hotel am Stephansplatz B-2, Stephansplatz 9, equally popular with business travellers and tourists. Q 120 Salon. The rooms are all different, with high ceilings, plump sushi restaurant Dots, the Motto am Fluss at Schweden- MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 40 50, office@hotelam- rooms (singles €106; doubles €161-181). PTAGW floral sofas, classic and designer furniture, honey-coloured platz, and the Zum Schwarzen Kameel, one of the oldest stephansplatz.at, www.hotelamstephansplatz.at. It’s parquet floors, unusual lighting and contemporary art. The restaurants in Vienna which is known for its cold dishes. impossible to get any more central - St. Stephen’s Cathedral English-style Red Salon accommodates the superb breakfast is 56 steps from the main door, and the city’s pedestrian zone Hostels buffet as well as a bar, where you can relax by the fireplace. Special sights I recommend... I would suggest is at your feet. A good place to meet for business or to start Hostel Ruthensteiner E-4, Robert Hamerlinggasse Q 42 rooms (singles €119-169, doubles: €139-209, suites the Spanish Riding School, the Third Man tour of the exploring the city. Q 56 rooms (doubles €160-240; suites 24, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 893 42 02, www. €169-369). TAGW underground and sewer system, and "Am Himmel" at €260-380). PTAUGKW hostelruthensteiner.com. This friendly and hospitable the Kahlenberg; a tree circle with great view of Vienna. backpacker’s paradise has provided travellers with an artsy Bristol B-3, Kärntner Ring 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. + 43 Imperial C-2, Kärntner Ring 16, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 urban oasis for decades. The family-run hostel’s sweeping 1 51 51 60, [email protected], www. Vienna In Your Pocket... Helps me with clear advice; 1 50 11 00, [email protected], www. bar, unique patio furniture and oversized chess and backgam- starwoodhotels.com. The Bristol has welcomed many it's especially useful for me to recommend traditional starwoodhotels.com. One of the finest hotels in town, this mon sets in the verdant garden area - all handcrafted by avid guests of international standing, and its Korso restaurant is and classical events to guests. is where foreign state visitors reside. Precious antiques and woodworker-owner Walter - along with the array of musical well-known for being one of the city’s best. Be sure to request historical details are seamlessly combined with modern com- instruments in the common room, helpful staff, clean facilities a room with a balcony facing the opera, or book one of the fort in the rooms. There’s butler service for that hand-ironed and reasonable rates invite visitors to relax and rendezvous. impressive tower suites. Q 158 rooms (doubles €269-364, Hilton C-2, Stadtpark 1, MLandstraße, tel. +43 1 71 newspaper or perfectly prepared bath. It’s also one of the most suites €509-4,400). PTHARUFGKW 70 00, [email protected], www.hilton.at. Situated beautiful buildings on the Ringstrasse, enhanced at night by Wombat’s E-4, Mariahilferstrasse137, MWestbahn- right outside the airport train terminus, the Hilton is very its facade lighting. Q 138 rooms (doubles €359-477, suites hof, tel. +43 1 897 23 36, www.wombats-hostels.com. Grand Hotel B-3, Kärntner Ring 9, MKarlsplatz, tel. convenient for business travellers. The rooms are good and €400-5,000). PHARUGBKW Wombat’s offers several different types of rooms, from single +43 1 51 58 00, [email protected], www. the staff is prompt and courteous, making this four-star hotel to six-bed set ups, and also features a great lounge area up- grandhotelwien.com. This hotel is a reminder of the pomp a nice place to stay. It also hosts a very fancy nightclub, The Imperial Renaissance Hotel I-3, Ungargasse 60, stairs and a bar downstairs. There is always an international and grandeur that defined the Austrian Empire. If the exterior Box, and a bar. Q 641 rooms (singles/doubles €179-229, MRochusgasse, tel. +43 1 711 75 0, www.imperialre- group of people staying at Wombat’s, so branch out and meet of the hotel doesn’t awe you, the marble and the exquisite suites €179-2,629). PTHARUFGKXW naissance.com. What was once the royal riding school is now new people. Q 80 rooms (doubles €29 per person, triples five-star service inside will. Q 225 rooms (doubles €239- a charming historic hotel that would make the emperor himself €25 per person, dorm beds €20). AR 320, suites €720-2,150). PTHAUGKW Hilton Vienna Plaza B-1, Schottenring 11, MM proud to be a guest in its opulent suites. With a convenient loca- Schottentor, tel. +43 1 31 39 00, info.viennaplaza@ tion in the embassy quarter, this Marriott has an exquisite Imperial hilton.com, www.hilton.de/wienplaza. Experienced Club where you can splurge in Maisonette suites, enjoy modern travellers would always know what to expect from a Hilton, conference facilities and even look over the chef’s shoulder as Les Clefs d’Or and this one smack in the middle of Vienna next to the uni- he prepares mouthwatering meals. Q PHAUGBK versity and the stock exchange is no exception. Rooms are M Concierges that are members of the "Les traditionally but tastefully decorated. Amenities include two Intercontinental C-3, Johannesgasse 28, Stadt- Clefs d'Or" international concierge associa- restaurants, a stylish bar, excellent fitness and recreation park, tel. +43 1 71 12 20, [email protected], www. Q PAUG tion (Union Internationale des Concierges facilities, as well as a business centre. vienna.intercontinental.com. This large and modern hotel d'Hotel) can be recognised by the crossed overlooking the Stadtpark manages to combine Viennese M gold keys on their lapels. This means that Hotel am Opernring A-3, Opernring 11, M Karl- charm with international flair. The well-furnished rooms are you are dealing with a professionally trained concierge who splatz, tel. +43 1 587 5517, [email protected], of excellent standards, but it’s the impeccable service, the has built up the skills and contacts to open doors for you www.opernring.at. This beautiful hotel located opposite knowledgeable concierge, the Café Vienna in the lobby, the throughout the city and indeed the world. They should have the Staatsoper is the ideal place for anyone with an eye for popular Intermezzo American cocktail and oyster bar and the a quick reply to any question or request you have. Hotels comfort and taste. The rooms are comfortably furnished, Club Lounge with great views over the city centre that keep and the service is high quality. Gourmets and party animals the businesspeople, tourists and rockstars coming back that have a concierge who is a Clefs D'Or member are Q marked with golden keys symbol in this chapter. just need to descend to the basement, where there’s the again and again. 458 rooms (doubles €179-249, suites Martinjak restaurant and the Platzhirsch club. €329-479). PHARUFGKW Intercontinental
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 24 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 25
Vienna’s cosmopolitan character is reflected by a great Gasthaus Floß B-1, Börseplatz 3, MSchottentor, range of fine international restaurants. No matter if you Symbol key tel. +43 1 533 89 58, www.flosz.at. A classic Viennese Restaurant Der Kuckuck Tradition in the heart of Vienna are looking for an exclusive restaurant in the first district E S restaurant with a modern touch, Gasthaus Floß has a small or you want to stop by at one of the authentic Asian eater- Live music Ta k e a wa y menu that changes daily, and the courses served are simply Himmelpfortgasse 15 A-1010Vienna ies - Vienna offers something for every taste. And the good T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled mouthwatering. What’s more, the service is also excellent, Tel.: 01/512 84 70 www.derkuckuck.com news: compared to other European cities typical tourist G L and the wine selection will not disappoint. Floß carefully traps are relatively rare. Non-smoking areas Guarded parking sources all its ingredients from regional farms, so it’s all good. Q O Casino M Nearest metro station Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. B I Austrian Outside seating Fireplace Gräfin vom Naschmarkt G-3, Linke Wienzeile 14, M Viennese cuisine stands out for its superb cakes and pas- R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly Karlsplatz, tel. +43 1 586 33 89. The ‘Countess of tries, but a wide range of other unique dishes, like Wiener Naschmarkt’ is meant for those who have been partying Schnitzel and Tafelspitz are also steeped in local history. wild all night and who can’t wait to grab a bite. For many The cooking tradition here has been inspired by many cul- authentically rustic and relaxed restaurant, make a reserva- years, the sketchy grub served here has nourished escapees tures throughout the centuries. During the 17th and 18th tion before you go. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. G from Vienna’s darker side. Night-owls from police on duty to centuries, Italian and French cuisine made their way into the drunk clubbers all congregate here for a greasy after-hours Viennese palate, followed by strong Bohemian and Hungarian Bettelstudent B-3, Johannesgasse 12, MStadtpark, schnitzel and a beer. Lately, however, the place has gone so influences in the 19th century, creating a local cuisine both tel. +43 1 513 20 44, www.bettelstudent.at. Summer or sour and expensive that it has a haters’ group on Facebook. unique and delicious. winter, early or late, this is a fine establishment for those who like QOpen 04:00 - 02:00. The „Kuckuck“ (cuckoo) is one of the most traditional restaurants excellent food and cosy surroundings. The lunch menu changes in the heart of Vienna. Only five minutes walking distance from Beim Czaak H-2, Postgasse 15, MSchwedenplatz, every day, which lets the gastronomic geniuses in the kitchen Kronprinz Rudolph C-1, Taborstrasse 12, MSchweden- St. Stephan’s cathedral it offers best Austrian hospitality with tel. +43 1 513 72 15. A place that knows its Austrian show off their talents. Bettelstudent is also known for its beer, platz, tel. +43 1 211 50 423, www.kronprinz-rudolph.at. excursions to the former Austrian-Hungarian monarchy. Come and dishes, Beim Czaak has been a family business since 1928 which it brews on site. Between the food and the beer, this may Fine dining in truly charming Viennese atmosphere. The restau- enjoy an evening in original Viennese atmosphere with perfect food and the attention to detail and tradition is evident from the very well become a staple during your stay here. QOpen 10:00 rant impresses with seasonal delicacies and Viennese classics and wine. Non-smoking restaurant moment you walk in. If you are planning on dining in this - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. cooked to perfection. Try the seven-course 'taste of imperial 0RQGD\6XQGD\IURPSPMonday - Saturday from 6 p.m. Vienna' menu for an excellent introduction to local gourmet Borromäus I-3, Ungargasse 60, MRochusgasse, cuisine. The elegant ballroom with high ceilings, massive chan- Austrian specialities tel. +43 1 71 17 50, www.borromaeus.at. Fresh fish, deliers and classic decoration confirm this is Viennese history delivered here daily and served in an exquisite setting where the culinary way. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00-22:00. PTB
Apfelstrudel apple-filled pastry the Imperial Riding School taught military arts during the photom Rita Newman, Fotos: Beuschel a ragout containing veal lungs times of the emperor. With delicious seafood, a wonderful Martinjak A-3, Opernring 11, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 and heart ambience and historic architecture, you are sure to have a 1 535 69 69, [email protected], www.martinjak. Butterschnitzel chopped veal cutlet fabulous time. QOpen 18:00 - 22:30. TAB com. There are many places to try local food in Vienna, Eiernockerln egg dumplings but Martinjak, located opposite the Staatsoper, takes Frankfurter, Käsekrainer, Debreziner, Burenwurst Der Kuckuck B-2, Himmelpfortgasse 15, MStepha- Austrian cuisine to a whole new level in a way that mixes the different kinds of sausages nsplatz, tel. +43 1 512 84 70, www.derkuckuck.com. traditional with the modern. The décor achieves this same Gebackene Leber deepfried pork or calf's liver ‘The cuckoo’ is a classic restaurant housed in a building seamless mixture of classic and contemporary, creating a Germknödel yeast dumpling dating back to medieval times; it has a beautiful 17th-century warm, friendly atmosphere where you can even try smaller Gulasch a hotpot similar to Baroque facade, a Renaissance portal and graceful 16th- portions of all the dishes on the menu at the bar - ideal for Hungarian pörkölt century vaulted ceilings. The dishes are all prepared with local those whose curiosity is piqued by the richness of Austrian Kaiserschmarrn sugared pancake with stewed plums seasonal products, and the drinks list is heavy in Austrian, cuisine. After dinner head to Platzhirsch, the in-house club Marillenknödel apricot dumplings Hungarian and Slovenian wines - we highly recommend trying where DJs will keep you grooving to wicked beats the whole Palatschinken Viennese crępes a bottle or two. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. PA6G night long. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AG Powidl stewed plum jam Rindsuppen beef soup Figlmüller B-2, Wollzeile 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 Plachutta C-2, Wollzeile 38, MStubentor, tel. +43 Sachertorte a chocolate cake 1 512 61 77, www.figlmueller.at. The history of Vienna’s 1 512 15 17, www.plachutta.at. Though particularly Schinkenfleckerl pasta with ham most famous schnitzel began in 1905, when Johannes Fi- famous for its beef dishes, Plachutta has become a bastion Schweinsbraten roast pork glmüller founded a small tavern behind the cathedral. Right for a range of traditional Viennese food. Forgoing current Selchfleisch smoked meat from the start, the schnitzel was what it still is today: a bit culinary trends, the chefs here focus on the simple, custom- Tafelspitz boiled beef, often served with bigger, a bit thinner and a bit crisper than the others, and ary dishes of this former imperial capital - particularly their apple and horseradish sauces served with the classic potato salad side dish. Figlmüller is famous Tafelspitz (boiled high-quality beef). While the food Topfenstrudel strudel filled with cottage cheese still a lovingly run family business. Also just around the corner is deliciously simple, the prices are on the expensive side. Wiener Schnitzel breadcrumbed and fried veal cutlet at Bäckerstrasse 6. Schnitzel paradise. Q TG QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. PTAG Zwiebelrostbraten onion roast beef Franz G-4, Preßgasse 29, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. Plutzerbräu F-3, Schrankgasse 4/4, MVolkstheater, +43 1 585 25 57, www.franzwien.at. With red brick walls tel. +43 1 526 12 15, www.plutzerbraeu.at. With its Gasthaus Floß at Börseplatz is commi ed to Viennese and a wooden interior, this quaint beer pub is a favourite vaulted ceilings and rustic décor, Plutzerbräu offers a cosy tradition in line with fresh and contemporary cooking. among many locals, so in the evenings it may be hard to atmosphere popular amongst students. Six times a year At restaurant, wine cellar and green garden we serve find a seat. Franz serves a decent breakfast until 17:00 on artists are given a chance to leave their mark in the form high-quality Viennese cuisine, made from regional, Saturdays and Sundays, and the best part is that all the cof- of an exhibition. The beer is homemade and the cuisine is Q mostly organic products sourced from personally known fee (or tea) you can drink is included. Open 16:30 - 02:00, typical Viennese. If you’ve partied all night, this is a great suppliers and for fair prices. With this, we offer Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. A6UG place to go for brunch on Sundays. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, T6G more than 100 Austrian wines, whereof 30 are from Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. vineyards around Vienna. Reinthalers Beisl B-2, Dorotheergasse 2-4, Vienna In Your Pocket iPhone app: M %56(3/$7=àrÞÝÞÝ:,(1 Stephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 12 49. Typical Aus- 7(/()21 ÝÞ âààåæâå download free at trian food at relatively low prices. The wait staff is friendly, *$67+$86#)/26=$7r:::)/26=$7 though at times stressed with all of the clientele, but don’t let Wiener Schnitzel © Österreich Werbung/Wiesenhofer www.vienna.inyourpocket.com that distract you from the above average food served here. 02ELV)5ÞÞÝÝÊßáÝÝr6$ÞäÝÝÊßáÝÝ QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. G
Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 26 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 27
Winter F-1, Alser Strasse 30, tel. +43 1 405 02 01. Service & Tipping It hardly gets more Austrian than this: old paintings, crisp tableclothes and even fake flowers make this place feel like Many tourists and expats, especially those from coun- a real local tavern. The food, be it schnitzel or beef goulash, is tries where it is assumed that customer is king, are just excellent. Anton Winter, now in his 80s, inherited the res- perplexed by the oddities of service in Vienna. Attitudes taurant from his mother and has since expanded it to include 6IENNAS -OST &AMOUS here may range from extremely polite and friendly, to a small garden. Friendly talkative waiters still know about professional but non-committal, to outright arrogant and old-world hospitality. Tram N°43 or 44 from Schottentor to disrespectful. Locals claim that bad service has always Brünnlbadgasse. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. been common, and justify it with cultural differences and 3ANDWICH "AR low salary levels. Perhaps Viennese waiters simply need Zum Weißen Rauchfangkehrer B-2, Weihburg- to be grumpy. Whatever the reason, it's perfectly normal gasse 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 34 71, www. 5NSPEAKABLY DELICIOUS ½NGER SANDWICHES AT 4RZESNIEWSKI to make clear if you are not pleased with the service weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at. One of the oldest and most level. The Viennese revere their Stammkunden (repeat renowned restaurants in town, the ‘white chimney-sweep’ 7E OFFER SMALL SANDWICHES WITH VARIOUS TOPPINGS AND customers), and even reserve tables for them without was founded in 1848 as one of the guild pubs of the old EGG BASED SPREADS &ROM