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VIENNA ““Inin Youryour Pocket:Pocket: a Cheeky,Cheeky, Wwell-Ell- Wwrittenritten Sserieseries Ooff Gguidebooks.”Uidebooks.” Tthehe Nnewew Yyorkork Timestimes Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps VIENNA ““InIn YYourour Pocket:Pocket: A cheeky,cheeky, wwell-ell- wwrittenritten sserieseries ooff gguidebooks.”uidebooks.” TThehe NNewew YYorkork TimesTimes MMayay - JJuneune 22012012 Margareten The 5th District Summer hotspots Where to chill out Wachau Valley Daytrip to the vineyards N°10 - €1.75 vienna.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3 Contents History 5 Arriving in Vienna 6 Getting your bearings on S, U and tram Getting Around 7 Let the summer come at the Volksgarten Pavillon Plains, trains, automobiles 5th District: Margareten 9 Coffeehouses 34 VIenna's lively worker's district Coffee, cake & culture Basics 10 Heurigen & Wine bars 36 Wine, wine and Wien Culture & Events 11 Open air festivals & wine tasting Nightlife 37 Bars, clubs and other dark rooms Freihausviertel events 17 Festivities in the Freihausviertel What to See 42 From imperial to contemporary City of Music 18 Vienna sounds good City Tours 47 See the city by bus, bike or boat Klimt year 2012 20 His life and works 150 years on Daytrips 48 Wine in Wachau, the Abbey at Melk Where to stay 22 From park bench to Park Grand Jewish Vienna 50 Synagogues, museums and a growing community Restaurants 24 From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ Children's Vienna 51 It's a child's world Shopping 54 Whatever you want Expat Vienna 58 Shop the world for less with tax free Tips for expats Get those perfect items at the best prices, wherever Directory 60 you are in the world, with Global Blue’s Tax Free Vienna Districts 60 Shopping service. Just look out for our logo in over Getting streetwise 270,000 stores across the globe and ask the staff for a Maps & Index Tax Refund Cheque to get your tax back. Centre map 61-63 Street register 64 Public transport map 65 www.global-blue.com Venue index 66 Visit "Klimt. Up Close and Personal" at the Leopold Museum vienna.inyourpocket.com May - June 2012 4 FOREWORD HISTORY 5 With spring now fully and gloriously upon us, and Starting off as a tiny village along the Wien river, Vienna is perhaps soon summer too, we can all kick off our Greeting from the mayor now the 10th largest city in the EU and home to many major Europe In Your Pocket shoes and rediscover the lush feeling of grass tickling international organizations such as the United Nations Vienna is a city of dreams. and OPEC. our toes. Vienna's parks offer just this experience, but A city full of life, economic Northern Estonia there's more – what about looking up Vienna's coolest Ireland vitality, efficient transportation, Russia summer park cafés; we've listed them for you on p.29. numerous modern buildings and Antiquity Ireland Latvia The locals are delighted with the warmer weather, and architectural gems. A city that Founded around 500 BC, Vienna was originally a Celtic the so-called 'Schanigarten season'; the reopening of offers people work and the youth settlement. By 15 BCE, the town had developed into a Roman Lithuania a wide range of opportunities. the café terraces. When it comes to culture, Vienna's frontier city called Vindobona, protecting the Roman Empire Vienna is also the city of green from Germanic tribes. Belarus wonderful Klimt Year just keeps on going, with several parks, calm, dreamy alleys, art Netherlands exhibitions to choose from; see p.21. There's more to and music. This city attracts Poland Austria than Vienna, and it's easy to escape the city people. Vienna is growing; life Medieval times © Stadt Wien/PID, Germany Ukraine for a day; to visit the unique Gugging Museum (p.44), can be felt on every corner and During the Middle Ages, Vienna became the residence of the in every street. Photo: Hubert Dimko Czech for example, for for a trip to the wonderful vineyards Habsburg dynasty in 1440 and eventually grew to become Republic Vienna is rightly deemed a city the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. in the picturesque Wachau valley (p.48). This edition worth living in, a model of providing medical and social of Vienna In Your Pocket additionally has information benefits. Hardly any other city in the world is as closely tied Austria Switzerland about the working-class 5th district of Margareten to both medical tradition and medical advances as Vienna. Beleaguered by Ottomans Slovenia Romania and suggestions for where you could go to watch the As the headquarters of international agencies such On their march towards western Europe, the Ottoman Croatia as OPEC, the UN and the International Atomic Energy Italy Euro 2012 football matches. armies were twice stopped at Vienna in the 16th and 17th Bosnia Serbia Agency, Vienna is also a cosmopolitan city of culture and centuries. During the 1529 Siege of Vienna, the city was Bulgaria Whatever you do this spring and summer, let us gastronomy - just as the “Vienna School of Medicine” lucky to escape defeat and was saved by an early winter Montenegro Kosovo know about any tips or comments you may have, became an international term, so too has Viennese and epidemics. A century later, the city's fortifications had FYR Macedonia via [email protected]. Enjoy Vienna. cuisine gained an international reputation. been greatly expanded proved their worth during the 1683 Albania Simply put, Vienna is the perfect mix: street art and the Battle of Vienna, when they helped the city survive for two Greece State Opera are just as much a Viennese pair as the months, allowing the army led by Polish King Jan Sobieski to Cover story Heuriger and first class cuisine. Internationally acclaimed assemble and defeat the Ottomans for good. exhibitions in the Albertina or the Museumsquartier are The 1950s Volksgarten Pavillon just as much a part of us as an improvised stage in It has been a busy start to the year for In Your Pocket, near Heldenplatz is one of the outer districts or the film festival at Rathausplatz, 18th century with a brand new guide published in Italy (Cagliari), and several excellent leaf-shaded Europe’s biggest open air cinema. Baroque was the style of the century and hundreds of many more in the early stages of production, including places to go and watch spring The rich spectrum of cultural offerings makes Vienna buildings were constructed or remodelled in the curly what will be our first guide in Belgium (Ghent). We have slowly turn into summer, with a leading cultural metropolis; one often hears the term Baroque look by architects like Johann Bernhard Fischer iPhone app “international capital of music” connected with it. On the also just launched a new version of our , a coffee or beer in hand. See von Erlach and Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. The local which can now be downloaded from the AppStore. our listings of summertime one hand, there are the many composers and musicians nobility started constructing palaces in the – now safe – Search for ‘IYP Guides’. hotspots on p.29. who have lived and worked in Vienna over the past few countryside immediately outside the city, resulting in several centuries. On the other, there are the Viennese music The number of cities we cover has now climbed magnificent summer palaces, such as Palais Liechtenstein 75 institutions with their grand tradition, which constantly and Schönbrunn. past , and the number of In Your Pocket guides keep this reputation fresh and carry it forth into the world. published each year is approaching an amazing five Vienna In Your Pocket: In the best tradition of the many Viennese markets, I can million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on available as a print guide, PDF download only say: have a look around! 19th century Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow Welcome to Vienna! Vienna became the capital of the huge Austrian Empire in us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can and a full iPhone app, downloadable free via 1804, and later of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, playing also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare. www.vienna.inyourpocket.com Dr. Michael Häupl an important role in European and world politics. The arts com/inyourpocket). blossomed, and classical music witnessed golden years. The rule of Emperor Franz Joseph I transformed the city in many ways: culture, arts and architecture blossomed, the city Adolf Hitler – himself an Austrian – triumphantly marched Editorial Copyright notice walls were demolished in 1858 to make way for the grand into town and spoke from the Hofburg balcony during Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Ringstraße boulevard lined lined with impressive buildings, the Anschluss ('joining up') of Austria in 1938. Vienna's Contributors GmbH 2010-2012. All rights reserved. No the city expanded to include its suburbs, and the Danube thousands of Jews suffered badly, harassed by both the state part of this publication may be reproduced river which caused several serious floods was canalised and anti-Semitic citizens, and decimated by the Holocaust. Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, in any form, except brief extracts for In Your Pocket GmbH Gretl Satorius and tamed. Vienna was badly damaged in 1944 and 1945 during the the purpose of review, without written Soviet advance, but largely reconstructed in the 1950s-60s, Axel-Springer-Str. 39, 10969 Berlin Research Paul Nogid permission from the publisher and with the city centre proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Layout & Design Tomáš Haman copyright owner. The brand name In Your Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 20th century in 2001. Post-war Vienna was divided into sectors ruled by Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm Pocket is used under license from UAB Vienna office Tel: +43 1 231 04 72 In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Industrialisation of and immigration to Vienna lead to a The USA, UK, France and the Soviet Union just like Berlin, [email protected] Maps IYP GmbH Lithuania tel.
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