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156. NOLI, RIPEIED FEAT PfiOCliCTS

J. C. AYRES, E. A. LILLARD, L. LEISTNEE

Molds or yeasts are frequently present in large amounts on the surface or in the interior of certain aged, cured such as "fermented" and "country cured" and can be metabolically active during the long curing and ripening time of these meats. Provisionally, these fungi must be considered important for the determination of flavor, appearance, and wholesomeness of these meats.

"Fermented" sausages or for which or yeasts are believed to be desirable, are traditionally produced in countries such as , , Spain, Greece, Yugoslavia, Rumania and Czechoslovakia and, to a more limited extent, in certain localities of the U. S. The processing of these sausages in several European countries has been an industry for hundreds of years but is largely restricted in the U. S. to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay area, where scme ten manufacturers may be found. "Country cured" hams are dry-cured meats comonly produced in the southern U. S. and have a curing and ripening time of 1/2 to 2 years. Heavy growth on the surface of these hams, is often observed and is sometimes rega.rded as a sign of proper aging.

Dry European type salami differs from all other sausages in that its surface is covered by a light grey mold mycelium. The micro- flora not only affects the appearance but also influences the orgaco- leptic qualities and weight losses of the product during aging. The control of mold growth on salami depends almost exclusively on experience acquired over many years of practice. Variable proportions of and may be used in the formulation of different types of fermented sausages. Usually, no water is added to the and the is incor- porated as discrete particles or pieces that range in size from 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Generally, these cubes are carefully mixed with the lean meat so that a marbling effect is given to the final product. , , nitrite and nitrate are added during the mixing process. This suspension is kept at 37OF for several hours to allow the ingredients to mature. Then the is stuffed into natural or artificial fibrous casing and hung over- night before cold daily for 2 hours for 8-10 days (Hungarian salame). Otherwise, the product remains in a green room for 4-5 days where excess moisture drips from the meat tJhi1e a characteristic mold flora begins to grow on the casing (Italian salame) - the time varies for dif- ferent batches and for different types of sausage. After smoking or when visible growth is observed, the product is moved to an aging room for a further 30 to 60 day period of curing; the temperature of this room is con- trolled at 50-60°F and humidity at 75%. Too much humidity is undesirable since it results in excessive mold development and the presence of un- desired fluffy or darker growth on the casings. Curing the aging period, employees periodically check the salami for mold growth and determine when the sausages are mature and ready for marketing. 157.

The production of "country cured" hams has been known for many years and the procedures adopted have become traditional in certain areas. These processors are entrepreneurs who have developed a product that has attained good local acceptance. Most of the plants do not slaughter hogs; instead they buy the hams according to certain specifications from local packers or from the big packers. A good, thick twenty pound which is not too lean, has a long shank, and a round cut butt end (typical appearance) is preferred.

Ordinarily, the processing season extends fromthe middle of November until the middle of January, and the early part of December is considered as the best time to start curing because then it is usually cool and dry, but not sufficiently cold to freeze the meat. The temperature should not be above 40°F or below 32OF. For curing on the flesh side and the hock end of each ham, three to four tablespoons of cure is thoroughly rubbed in, After this curing mixture has "melted" into the ham, which usually takes about half an hour, sodium chloride is massaged on the flesh side and is deposited on the shank and the aitch bone opening: 4-1/2-5 pounds of sodium chloride are re- commended for a hundred pounds of pork. After application of the cure, each ham is wrapped in paper and slipped into a cotton knit bag. After leaving overnight or for several days on tables or slats, the hams are hung, shank end down, in the ham house for six weeks or longer. Some processors - the hams every day or every other day with cool hickory smoke for one to three weeks. The hams stay in the smoke- house for as long as it takes to achieve the desired color. The smoking process is not regarded as essential or even important for the flavor of the hams but enhances the appearance of the cured product and is used to promote advertising. After smoking, the hams are hung in the aging room.

The aging time varies from a minimum of six months and may extend to two years in duration. The length of the period that a ham is aged depends to a great extent on its size and fat content.

After two years of aging, the hams are still considered of high quality and have intense flavor. When hams are kept longer than this, they are considered to be too dry and salty, The flavor of the hams is considered satisfactory only after the product has passed through the warm summer season. During this time, the ham will lose about 25-30 per cent of its original weight. The temperature is not controlled during the aging process but there is some control of the humidity by the use of dehumidifiers on damp smer days or by cross ventilation. Preferably, the hams are aged in the dark. During aging, the hams are not handled or permitted to touch each other.

There are a number of modifications in processing techniques. In several of the plants visited, the operators expected only a small amount of mold growth on the surface of the hams and considered it desirable to have none. Ordinarily, however, the process resulted in a very heavy mold growth on the flesh side of the ham and, with some processors, presence of these molds is considered an indication of proper curing and aging. Yet, too much mold growth was reported to lead to musty flavor and penetration of the molds through cracks into the interior of the ham. 158.

TABLE 1.

Number and origin of samples studied.

Fermented sausages Country cured hams Country cured

No. 43 44 3

U. S. A. 20 Mis souri 13 Mis souri 1 bngary 5 Kentucky 12 Kentucky 1 Italy 5 Iowa 11 Georgia 1 Spain 5 Virginia 4 Holland 2 Tennessee 2 Germany 1 North Carolina 1 Swit z e r land 1 Georgia 1 Greece 1 Rumania 1 Yugoslavia 1 Czechoslovakia 1

Ninety samples of cued and aged meats were tested in this laboratory for characteristic fungal flora. Most of these meats were high quality, gourmand-type products for which fungi are believed to be desirable.

The samples analyzed include all major types of cured and aged meats of the U. S. and with which fungi are comnonly associated. In addition, a Yorkshire bacon (England) was examined but was not believed to have a characteristic flora. In all, 670 fungal strains were isolated (456 molds and 214 yeasts). It is believed that the fungi isolated are representative of the yeast and mold flora. This view is supported by the observation that the fungal flora isolated from products obtained from different localities but of the same type, proved to be quite similar. Apparently, cured and aged meats provide a substrate suitable only for certain species of cosmopolitan yeasts and molds.

Table ‘2 gives the moisture and fat contents of various sausages. Sausages made in the U. S. were not as dry as those obtained from Europe. Except for those from Italy and Greece, the fat content was similar. These two sausages were quite greasy and had large chunks of fat that had a yellow appearance due to the discolored lipids.

Yeasts were found to be more commonly associated with fermented sausages than with country cured hams and were more prevalent on the surface than in the interior of these products. Yeasts were found on the surface of about 2/3 of the hams and 90% of the sausages sampled while they were found in the interior of 1/4 of the hams and 1/2 of the sausages examined. Although yeasts were recovered from high quality products, if they were present in excessive amounts (greater than five million per gram), they contributed to spoilage (Table 3).

Salami obtained from Hungary and Holland were characterized by heavy mold growth on the casing of the product while mold growth on genuine Italian salami was somewhat scanty. Yet, sausages from the San Francisco area, although labeled as Italiantype salami, showed heavy mold growth on the surface. 159.

TABLE 2.

Fat and moisture content of fermented sausages.

Per cent moisture Per cent fat*

Spain 28.3 58.9

Spain 17.7 46.7

Spain 22.2 25.9

Italy 25.1 73.4

Italy 23.9 44.5 Greece * 18.3 70.2

Yugoslavia* 18.9 55.8

HwarF 20.3 62.5

Rumania** 17.9 55.6

Czechoslovakia* 19.7 59.6

California 32.2 41.6

California 35.0 49.2

* Calculated on dry weight basis

** Somewhat dehydrated during transportation and storage 160.

Table 3.

Yeasts recovered from 78 ham and sausage samples.

No. of samples Genus Species No. positive -Hams Sausages Total

44 Debaryomyce s kloeckeri 16 12 28 subglobosus 5 12 17 hans enii 0 8 8 nicotianae 3 4 7

17 Candida rugosa 2 8 10 reukauf ii 0 5 5 lipolytica 2 0 2 me libio s i 1 0 1 catenulat a 0 1 1 guilliermondii 0 1 1

9 Torulops i s famata 3 5 8 pinus 0 1 1 2 Saccharomyces globosus 0 2 2

2 Rhodot orula muc ilag ino sa 2 0 2 minuta 1 0 1

2 Sporob olomyce s roseus 0 1 1 pararoseus 1 0 1

1 Bullera alba 1 0 1

1 Pichia unidentified 0 1 1

Molds were recovered fromthe surface of all hams examined and also were detected in the interior of eight hams. Three of these hams showed deep cracks in their surface, through which the mold had penetrated into the interior of the hams. The amount of mold growth of the surface of the country cured hams examined varied considerably and apparently was in- fluenced by the relative humidity at which the hams were held during the ripening period. In general, hams wrapped in paper during the curing and ripening process and kept at ambient humidity exhibited abundant mold growth on the meat portion of their surface with less on the skin and fat portions. Hams which were not wrapped in paper and were held at a low relative humidity (about 65%):during ripenLng developed only sparse mold growth. The fat on the surface of these hams appeared strongly oxidized after several months of ripening, and this rancidity may have contributed to the inhibition of mold growth. (Table 4) 161.

Table 4. Molds recovered fromthe 67 ham and sausage samples.

No. and $ Fzmily of samples Genus No. of Sam-des -Hams Sausages Total

Nucoraceae 9 (135) Rhizopus 5 3 8 Mucor 0 1 1

Mortierellaceae 2 ( 3%) Mort ie r e lla 1 Syncephalastrum 0 Cephalidaceae 1 ( 15) 1 1 Moniliaceae 66 (99%) Penicillium 33 24 57 Aspergillus 36 9 45 Scopular hpsis 3 11 14 Paecilomyces 3 0 3 Oospora 3 0 3

Dematiaceae 14 (21%) Cladosporium 12 0 12 Alternaria 5 0 5

Tuberculariaceae 3 ( 4%) Epicoccum 3 0 3 Fusarium 1 0 1

Unidentified 4 ( 6%)

Molds of the family Moniliaceae were the most abundant and generally outnumbered other molds present. Penicillia were recovered from about all of the sausages and hams investigated. On sausages, penicillia prevail during the entire ripening process or share predominance with Scopulariopsis in the later stages. On hams, penicillia are predominant early in the ripening process, but after longer aging are succeeded by aspergilli. (Table 5). This difference in pattern between sausages and hams is probably due to the water activity of the substrates. From experimental a, determinations it was learned that after a short ripening time, fermented sausages have a water activity of about 0.985, which decreases to about 0.915 in the fully matured product. On the other hand, the surface zone of fully matured country cured hams has an a, of about 0.88.

Molds of the genus Aspergillus were recovered from most of the hams but only from 1/3 of the sausages examined. The A. glaucus group, which thrives at a relatively low awl was generally detected on sausages only if little or no growth of penicillia was present, but was recovered from almost all country cured hams during the ripening process. In addition to the decrease of %, the increase in temperature, applied after two to four months in ham ripening, could also favor aspergilli in the later stages of the ripening process. Of the species belonging to the A.- glaucus group, A_. ruber, repens and amstelodami were frequently found. 162.

Table 5.

Penicillia recovered fromthe 67 ham and sausage samples.

No. and % No. and % No. and % Series of samples of sausages of hams + bacon expansum 34 (51%) 10 (40%) 24 (60$) janthinellum 18 (27%) 18 (705) 0 chrysogenum 17 (25%) 5 (19%) 12 (30$) commune 9 (13$) 2 ( 7% 7 (18%) 0 viridicatum 6 ( 9%) 6 (15%) c yclop ium 5 ( 7%) 0 5 (13%) roqueforti 4 1 3 ci t ri num 4 3 1 frequentans 3 0 3 brevi - compactum 3 1 2 urticae 3 3 0 javanicum 1 0 1 purpurogenum 1 0 1 Rmigena 1 0 1 9 unidentified (13%) 1 ( 4%) 8 (20%)

Table 6.

Aspergilli recovered fromthe 67 ham and sausage samples.

No. of Aspergillus samples group Species No. of Samples

Hams Sausages Total

42 glaucus A. ruber 31 3 34 A. repens 27 2 29 A. amstelodami 9 1 10 A. chevalieri 4 1 5 A. pseudoglaucus 1 0 1 A. mangini 1 0 1

6 restrictus A. penicilloides 6 0 6

7 versicolor 7 0 7

5 niger 3 2 5

2 wentii 2 0 2

1 candidus 0 1 1

1 fumigatus 1 0 1

1 flavus 0 1 1 163.

A.-- ruber is apparently the most important species of fully matured country cured hams, since this species was not only recovered from every ham examined with a ripening time of longer than four months, but was also present in very large amounts. Besides the A. glaucus group, the groups A. restrictus and versicolor apparently fiEd a suitable sub- strate on cured and aged meats. (Table 6)

The principal fungal flora of cured and aged meats was composed of the genera Penicillium, Aspergillus, Scopulariopsis, Debaryomyces, Candida and Torulopsis and the species of these genera which grow readily have in common a tolerance for low water activity.

Further effects fhngi might have on fermented sausages or country cured hams concern the flavor or the appearance of these products. The "mold of choice" might only prevent the growth of undesirable molds and on Hungarian type sausage, thus indirectly improving the flavor.

A desirable effect on the appearance of the product might be that produced by yeasts which reduce myoglobin and thus contribute to the attractive, bright red color of Italian salami. The development of visible yeast growth (fleur du ) on fermented sausages is some- times regarded as a sign of proper ripening.

While large numbers of yeasts in the interior of country cured hams can contribute to spoilage, molds that grow on the surface of country cured hams prevent oxidation of the fat, which therefore does not appear yellow or rancid. Nolds of the genus Cladosporium produce un- desirable "black spots" on meats, while Scopulariopsis cause "white spots" on the skin of country cured hams. "Whiskers" on sausages and hams are due to the mycelium growth of Yiucorales, such as Rhizopus. - reducing molds bring about defects in cellulose casing of sausages, which render the product unsightly. Some producers of country cured hams expressed the opinion that good hams show a dark green mold on the surface.

Inoculation Studies

Fungi to be considered as inocula for cured and aged meats should grow readily on or in these products and must be neither patho- genic nor toxinogenic.

The first experimental batch of salami was stuffed in 3-1/2 inch diameter fibrous casing and hung in a green room where the temperature was set at 3OoC and humidity at 75%. The salami turned a bright red color after 1-1/2 days rather than in the 4-5 days experienced in the industry. These salami were smoked for eight hours and, since they were smaller than the commercially produced sausages, they were showered for only one hour with tap water. For inoculating the surface of the salami, molds that were found on Hungarian salami were selected. Two strains of Penicillium simplicissimum, two of Penicillium expansum and two of Scopulariopsis alboflavescens were used. Nolds dried and ground after growing on bread crumbs were mixed in a solution containing 0.2% agar and 0.002% Na sulfite and each salami was rolled in the solution containing the mold and hung up. By this method, the salami received an even covering which clung to the skin. 164.

The salami were kept at 10°C and 75% humidity. There was good exterior growth and even coverage. Salami were tested after 1, 2, and 3 months. Each of these salami lost some weight during storage. On the salami sampled at one month, there was no visible surface growth. How- ever, upon plating, the inoculated species grew on the media even though they had not grown on the salami used. The inoculated yeast did not survive the heat used for smoking. The color of the salami was dark pink and the edges darker; the texture was dry and there were some air pockets where the casing had not been tightly stuffed. Also, the salt added was insufficient and the fat content was low. (Table 7).

Table 7.

Moisture and fat content of experimental salami (Batch No. 1).

0 1 mo. 3 mo. % 4'0 % Sample -H20 -fat -fat Initial 62.8 41.2

Control 44.3 39.9 39.0 37.2

P. expansum 48.1 40.6 38. a 37.2

P. simplicissimum 45.4 40.4 37.8 37.9

S. alboflavescens 44.3 41.4 36.3 35.8

All three molds 48.8 40.6 38.0 37.2

The center of the salami had better flavor than areas near the casing. When these salami were cut open, the air pockets were covered with mold growth. This interior mold growth could account for the larger degree of lipolysis in some samples.

Since the stuffing of the first batch of salami was faulty, a second lot of eighteen salami were made and divided into three groups:

I. Control 11. Inoculated with Penicillium simplicissimum Ml51, M16 111. Inoculated with Penicillium expansum Ml.49, Ml93

For this trial, 10% additional fat was added as before, but the quantity of salt was increased. The meat was divided so that yeast culture and were in one half and spices and curing ingredients in the other. After mixing, the two types of salami were stuffed into natural casings at high speed. The same yeasts were used for this salami as before.

Samples taken before and after smoking showed that the inoculated yeast did not survive the temperature in the smoke house. The 165. texture of the second batch of salami was much better than the first and the added fat and salt improved the taste, The salami before smoking had a pH of 5.5 and after smoking a pH of 5.0. There was no difference in the color between the group containing spices only and the group having yeasts, spices and paprika. -Hams. Representative cultures of fungal strains found on the exterior of country cured hams were chosen, and slants were made of each strain for inoculation on the exterior of the hams. Strains of Aspergillus and Penicillium were selected as representing the predominant molds found on the exterior of country cured hams. Cultures used were:

Aspergillus ruber: 1472, Ml78 Penicillium expansum: Ml16, Ml30 Penicillium Aspergillus repens: M68, M128 Penicillium chrysogenum: M166 viridicatum: Ml64, M218 and treatments used are given in Table 8.

Table 8.

Treatment of the hams.

Numbers Weight (lbs. ) Lbs. of Salt (5%)

1-8 17-1-21.0 .86-1.05 Salted controls 9-16 18.9 - 20.9 .94-1.06 Penicillium 17-24 18.8-20.9 .94-1.04 Aspergillus 25 -32 18.6-20.8 .93 - 1.04 Penicillium and Aspergillus 33 20.6 No ne Initial unsalted control

Thirty-three fresh hams were obtained from a packing company from pigs that had been slaughtered the day before and the meat had been allowed to remain refrigerated overnight. They were about 20 pound hams - long shanked and unskinned. The butt end of 32 of the hams was trimmed, and then each hamwas weighed. Five pounds of salt per 100 pounds of meat were used for rubbing into the hams. Sugar, nitrate, or nitrite were not added, nor were the hams smoked. Appropriate amounts of sterile salt were rubbed into each of the hams which were then wrapped in white butcher paper and placed in sterile knit bags.

Except for the untreated control, the 32 hams were kept at O°C for one night and then were moved into the controlled humidity box and hung, shank down, where they were allowed to remain under controlled conditions (Table 9). Two of the hams from each group were removed and sampled at three month intervals during the curing time of one year.

After two weeks curing time, one of the eight hams with salt but no inoculum was examined for exterior flora to obtain an idea of which bacteria had survived the high salt content. Only three areas were sampled and the procedure was the same as that used for the surface sampling of fresh ham No. 33. 166.

Table 9

Procedure for curing hams.

Days Temperature Relative Humidity

60 4% 88% 30 l0OC 80% 90 2O0C 75% 90 3OoC 72%

The outside of the fresh ham was found to have two species of Penicillium and one of Aspergillus together with two strains of soil fungi and some bacteria - Sarcina, Micrococcus spp., and Bacillus spp. The interior of the ham contained about the same flora with the exception that one yeast species was found and there were no Sarcinae.

When the control ham was sampled after two weeks of curing time, it was found that the same types of organisms were present as those at the beginning. This would indicate that these could withstand the high salt content. The appearance of the ham at this time was bloody and caked with salt; no mold growth was visible.

Upon sampling for interior growth, the ham was cut three times perpendicular to the femur; the surface of each cut was flamed, and 30 grams of material were removed aseptically fromwithin each slice. These represented compact muscle, connective tissue, and fat. A bone marrow sample was also taken fromthe femur in the middle slice of the ham. Each of the samples was blended and diluted and plated on the same media as listed for the control.

Table 10.

Percentage weight loss of hams. -3 mo. 6 mo. 9 mo. 1. Control 12.9 20.5 25.1 2. P. expansum, P. chrysogenum, P viridicatum 12.4 22.1 27.4 3. A. ruber, A. repens 13.0 24.5 26.0 4. All of the above 13.3 22.4 28.3

After storage for three months, the meat had lost 12-13% of its original weight (Table 10). While the outside had darkened considerably, near the center it still had a quite fresh appearance and. the flesh was not very firm. The fat on the control hams had a decided yellow cast, but the hams that received inocula containing penicillia were much whiter and had less rancid odor. While the fat of the meat inoculated with aspergilli also was somewhat rancid, the fat was less colored than that of the controls. There was quite a lot of excess salt that remained caked in the depressed area near the aitch bone. 167

There was little mold growth on the uninoculated controls; yet, Penicillium viridicatum was recovered from both hams. On hams that received inocula containing E. expansum and P. viridicatum, fairly heavy grey and green growth of these species was in evidence - especially in the lean areas, P. -was not recovered. Some growth of P. expansum and P. v?ridicatum was observed on hams that received inoccla of aspergilli-only. Apparently the high water activity level of the meats prevented growth initiation by either of the aspergilli. A few species of Micrococcus and Bacillus were recovered fromthe hams (Table 11).

Table 11.

Changes occurring in hams during storage.

-Salt Nold Growth Firmness Amt. Yellow Rancidity

Control +++ - + +-t 3P ++ 2P ++ + + 3 mo. ZA ++ 2P + + + 3P, 2A ++ 2P ++ + +

Control + 2F+, U+ +++ ++++ ++ 3P + +++ +++ ++ + 6 mo. 2A 2P + ZP, IA ++ +++ ++ + 3P, 2A + 2P, u ++ +++ ++ + Control + lP, U, X + +++G ++++T ++++ 3P + 2p ++++ ++++ +++ +++ 9 mo. 2A + 2P, 2A +++ ++++ +++ ++ 3P, 2A + 2P, 2A ++++ ++++ ++ + *P.- expansum and chrysogenum G = greasy; T = translucent

At six mnths, the hams were quite red and much more firm than at the start, although there was still some caked salt that remained undissolved. As before, there was very little mold growth on the controls and the fat of these hams was quite yellow and rancid. By contrast, the fat of the hams that were inoculated with penicillia had not become much more rancid or yellow than at three months. There was profuse mold growth on the lean portions but not on the skin, The hams inoculated with aspergilli or with aspergilli and penicillia had considerable mold growth. While much of this was due to expansum and viridicatum, Aspergillus ruber was readily isolated. No2. bacteria were 2.recovered from the surface of any of the hams but a few Micrococcus, Bacillus and yeasts were isolated fromthe interior samplings. P. chrysogenumwas recovered from the un- inoculated controls but not from hams receiving this species as part of an inocula.

By nine months, the meat of the hams had become quite red and very firm. The color and firmness were typical of country cured hams - especially those inoculated with both the Penicillium and Aspergillus strains. 168.

The fat was decidedly yellow and rancid smelling - especially on the controls. Mold gmwth was abundant and was present in fairly large amounts even on the shank portion. Penicillium expansum and Penicillium viridicatum again were the predominant fungi with Aspergillus ruber and Aspergillus repens also appearing as a result of the considerably lower water activity. No bacteria were found on the surface of the hams while only a few Bacillus, Micrococcus and yeasts were found on the interior. This would indicate that the salt concentration and. decreased water activity were inhibitory to a great extent.

Conclusions

On the basis of these findings, it may be concluded that fungi do play a role in the preservation of aged sausages and hams. Their contribution to retention of moisture and color has been noted for both types of meat. The use of molds is intentional for many European gourmand sausages but is incidental for most country cured hams.

Salami overgrovrn by molds develop an attractive greyish white felt-like surface that protects the meat from spoilage fungi and serves as a fairly impermeable coating to moisture vapor and oxygen transmission. As a consequence, these sausages retain more moisture, develop more in- tense color, have reduced estraneous microbial growth and can be pre- served for longer tines without development of rancidity.

Hams cure satisfactorily without any mold activity but when these meats remain in storage for 6-9 months and lose 25-30$ of their original weight, growth of Penicillia and Aspergilli appear as a result of the reduced water activity. The fat of these hams is less yellow and rancid than that of meat free of mold growth.

DR. BLUMER: Our next speaker is Director of Research of John Morrell and Company. So, he will make a few remarks concerning the paper which was presented by Dr. Deibel. Dr. Brown. DR. BROkJN: Thank you, Tom. It's always a pleasure to be back and meet with you. I was very much interested in hearing Dr. Deibel's paper. This will give me a chance to talk to you for a few minutes about some specific things that we do to control the microbial content of finished products. I won't talk about the animal we slaughter ourselves, because we have rather good control from the live animal all the way through to the finished product. But we buy a lot of meats from outside; we call these extra-purchase meats. We have our own intercompany specification for these inccming neats. Now we found out long ago that you can't give numbers to your super- visory and operating people to use. So, you don't report results to them on these meats as so many per gram. You simply send them a report after the meat has been properly sampled and the analysis has been made. You say that it is very good, good, questionable, or excessive. We