INSIDE: Cooking with Contessa Rocca 3 n e l l A

Venice Hotel News 3 n l a l i V

h n p a m Excursions from Stresa 4 s e u H S

n y n b

A s

y Where to Eat in Stresa 6 o t r o a h M p

l y l b

A s o t o h p

l l A View of Isola Bella from Stresa Cooking Up A Storm

® in Venice dream of he best way for a traveler to experience Italy’s abundant T heart is to take a cooking class. Recently, in Venice, I had kitchen time with two natives, who generously opened up their delicious world to me: Volume 12, Issue 2 www.dreamofitaly.com March 2013 ITA LY Chef Patrizia, The International Kitchen

“I’ll make you a Spritz!,” says Chef De-Stressing In Stresa Patrizia, the moment I enter her apart - ment. I barely have my coat off when came to Stresa to de-stress. I palace set on a privately owned island, this darling sprite-of-a- signora hands needed a real vacation, one on boat trips on the lake. I even saw a me the classic Venetian refreshment: a I without obligatory “Top 10” cul - zebra. sparkling glass of Campari, mixed tural sights. I craved scenery, the views with Prosecco, garnished with an of the lake and mountains. I wanted Stresa sits on the Borromean Gulf on orange slice. time to just savor being in a gorgeous the western shore of Lake Maggiore, Italian town. Italy’s second largest lake. Chef Patrizia, her assistant/translator Part of the lake is in Silvia, and Lisa, another student, This Stresa delivered. I had a Switzerland. The Italian por - toast: “ Cin cin! ” The vibe is set for a five-day idyll of relishing sim - tion touches the shores of happy party/cooking session. ple and memorable pleasures: Piedmont and Lombardy. walks along Lake Maggiore’s The class began earlier that morning, promenade; the magnificent With humble beginnings as when I met Silvia and Lisa at the vista from my hotel balcony; tiny fishing village accessed Rialto market. This bustling spot by people watching from a cafe by a dirt Roman road, Stresa’s the famous bridge has been the in the piazza. Lush flowers attraction as a holiday town Venetian food shopping center since were everywhere—along the with newly constructed ele - 1097. It’s a great scene of curious lake, in beds bordering hotel lawns, in gant villas, hotels and gardens, soared tourists like me and natives, strolling planters in the piazza, cascading from after the 1906 construction of the through the fish stalls, that glisten balconies and window boxes. Simplon Tunnel Railway. with the bounty from the lagoon and beyond —from squirming live crabs, My low-key schedule took me to Stresa is small and very beautiful. to shrimp, octopus, and sea bream. amazing gardens, to a sumptuous continued on page 4 continued on page 2 Lake Maggiore is 42 miles long. Venice Cooking continued from page 1

Surrounding the fish market are nated in onions, vinegar, and sugar, As I gut the sardines and chop onions, vibrant stands of fruits and vegetables, resulting in an intense, savory flavor. Patrizia tells me how Sarde in Saor orig - overflowing with goodies such as Marinating it for at least a few days is inated centuries ago when fishermen bright purple Treviso cabbage and gold - essential to the recipe. would be at sea for weeks at a time. en mushrooms from Veneto forests. Since there was no refrigeration, fisher - To my pleasant surprise, Chef Patrizia men’s wives invented a way of pre - With our bags full of sardines and veg - unveils a Sarde in Saor she made for serving fish so it would last for their etables, we make our way through nar - me days earlier, so I could taste her husbands time away from home. In the row calle, along canals, over little proper rendition, and then shows me Renaissance, pine nuts and raisins bridges, and past the curvy Santa Maria another version she’s made: Verdure in were added to the recipe to aid diges - Formosa church. Along the way, Silvia Saor, where sardines are replaced with tion and sweeten the breath. turns out to be an excellent guide— sautéed zucchini, pointing out the top cheese shop The kitchen fills with the near the market (“ Casa del homey aroma of onions slowly Parmigiano—I saw Mario Batali cooking in oil. Patrizia hands there! ”), a good pizza place, (“ Cip me toothpaste to wash my Ciap—my husband is Neapolitan and he hands, her clever way to take loves this pizza! ”). away the fishy sardine smell. 3 1 0

2 She helps me notice the differences Our work done, we gather at

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c in the winged lion sculp - the table set with pretty lace r a tures that are all over Venice: placemats and floral-patterned M “If the lion is holding an china. The taste of Patrizia’s pre- 2 open book in its paw, that prepared Sarde in Saor is so much means Venice was at peace, richer and more satisfying than the m

o and if the book is closed, the one I just made. The class turns c . y l sculpture was made when out to be a tasting/learning/toast - a t i

f the city-state was at war. ” ing with Venetian wine experience o

m that ends sweetly with Patrizia’s a e r

d Finally we land in front of a dessert invention, then caffe, “cor - . w palazzo in the Castello sestiere, rected”, as the Italians say, with a w

w and make our way up a zig-zag of potatoes, eggplant, few drops of grappa. stairs to Patrizia’s apartment. Patrizia and peppers. is in her sixties, but has the energy of We linger at the table, in a delightful, an eight-year-old girl, flitting around in “We’ll make both so you learn, but first well-fed haze, as the afternoon light a black mini-skirt and floral vest. Her we’ll start with my dessert—My inven - fades… airy apartment is decorated with folksy tion!” Patrizia says. It’s a brilliant mix Cooking with Chef Patrizia touches: marionettes, framed needle - of mascarpone, raisins soaked in grap - The International Kitchen work pieces and a wood-burning pa, sugar and cocoa, that we set aside www.theinternationalkitchen.com stove. Right off the kitchen is a terrace, to chill in the refrigerator before she (312) 467-0560 (in the U.S.) where students dine in warmer begins my Saor lesson. Rates: $175 per person months, enjoying a lovely view, with The morning class with market visit runs 10:15 the steeple of San Marco in the back - I enjoy practicing my Italian with a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and is available Tuesday ground. Patrizia, who speaks little English, and through Saturday for a minimum of two people. An at the same time I’m grateful to have evening class at 6 p.m. is also available during the When I booked this class, I asked if I Silvia standing by as translator to help summer months. It does not include a market visit. could learn to make one of my favorite when the conversation gets too speedy. Venetian specialties: Sarde in Saor. It’s a With four of us women in the kitchen traditional dish of fried sardines mari - plus Spritz, talk inevitably turns to men and amore, and there’s lots of laughs. Venetian cuisine relies heavily on fresh seafood. Contessa Enrica Rocca “Every meal I had growing up was when we met in the lobby of the Ca served by a butler in white jacket and Pisani, the hotel that had arranged for “I never know what I’m going to cook gloves,” she says. When she was 19, me to take the class. On our walk back until I go to the market and see what is Enrica left Venice for culinary school in and forth to the Rialto, friends greeted best,” says Contessa Switzerland, then lived her every few steps: the jeweler who Enrica Rocca, as we in South Africa, where was repairing her earrings, the glam - approach the Rialto. she opened a successful orous blonde dress designer who knew “You have to know Italian restaurant. her from South Africa days. and understand and use only the best These days she spends a We stopped in to see her colleague, ingredients to eat few months a year in sommelier Lorenzo Menegus at his well. So I don’t teach Millevini Enoteca, where he lined cooking, I teach a up bottles to explain to me the lifestyle, and it has vintages of the Veneto: Prosecco, nothing to do with writing a soave, valpolicella, amarone and recipe down and following grappa. We fueled up with caffe time. When you cook, it is like before our marketing at you are an artist who sits down Vergnano, “The best!”, said

and knows his materials. You Enrica, enjoying her cup to the 3 1 0

have to know the taste, the tex - last drop. 2

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tures, before you can put them c r

continued on page 8 a together. Then you follow your London, where her M instincts.” cooking classes have attracted a popular fol - dream of 3 The contessa is a powerful, lowing. When in Venice, ® m

feisty woman, exuding elegance, even along with her classes, she runs a com - o c . y this morning when she’s dressed casu - pany that stages events (banquets, l a

ITALY t i

ally, in a thick wool sweater, tights, and masked balls, weddings, birthday cele - f Kathleen A. McCabe o

boots. She’s an internationally known brations), and exports food from small m Editor and Publisher a e r

and praised culinary entrepreneur, local suppliers to Japan. d . who was raised in privileged sur - Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe w w

Design: Leaird Designs w roundings in Venice. Enrica’s passion for her native city and www.leaird-designs.com earthiness immediately put me at ease Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S., Canada and Venice Hotel News abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online access to On June 1, a new luxury hotel Marriott Hotels will be opening nearly 100 back issues and regular e-mail updates. will be opening in Venice. The a new property in Venice in Three ways to subscribe: Aman Canal Grande will be 2014. The 266-room JW 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, housed in the 16th century Denver, CO 80201 Marriott Venice Resort & Spa 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 Palazzo Papadopoli, located will open on the private island 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, in the Sal Paolo district of Sacca Sessola. Set among Mastercard and American Express accepted) between the Rialto and lush gardens and olive groves, Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] Accademia bridges. Each of Aman Canal Grande the new resort will feature a Advertising opportunities are available. the hotel’s 24 suites offers a health club and spa as well as E-mail: [email protected] view of Venice’s Grand Canal, but the stunning indoor, outdoor and rooftop swimming pools. Copyright © 2013 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights scenery doesn’t come cheap as rates start at Weddings will be held at a newly restored Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide 1,000€ per night. For more information, visit church. For more information, visit information that is accurate and reliable; however, www.amanresorts.com www.marriott.com Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that —K.M. may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com Venetian cuisine relies heavily on fresh seafood. De-Stressing in Stresa continued from page 1

Narrow streets lead to Piazza Cadorna, ily even where benches and flowerbeds encircle included one shady plane trees. Several of the sur - saint. They rounding cafes set up tables for out - made wise door dining in the middle of the piaz - political con - za. More cafes, small shops and a cou - Piazza Cadorna nections, mar - ple of antique stores squeeze into the ried well and surrounding streets, many of them for to emerge behind the foothills. Lake Maggiore bought prized pedestrians only. Layer by layer, rugged, snowcapped properties around Lake Maggiore. peaks revealed themselves. Boats from the ferry landing, across the The purchases included Isola Bella and street from town, make it easy to visit My favorite walk began just beyond Isola Madre. Still owned by the other towns and sights on the lake. the Hotel Bristol. Bear right to Via Borromeos, they are Stresa’s most Explore the Borromean Islands, wan - Giberto Borromeo. You’ll see a sign prominent sights. With its elaborate der through the Wednesday market in pointing toward the Funivia Stresa- terraced gardens and imposing Luino or visit the gardens at Villa Mottarone; just follow the direction Baroque palace, Isola Bella is certainly Taranto in Verbania. indicated by the arrow. It’s a peaceful, the most impressive island. lovely curving walk bordered by large

3 From the ferry landing, a pathway trees on one side and the lake on the Few visitors ventured to Isola Bella on 1 0

2 meanders through the wide, grassy other. It also has the best views of the this grey, drizzly October day, so I

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c lakeside park that ends near the popu - Borromean Islands— Isola Bella, Isola often had rooms in the palace and r a lar Bristol Hotel, one of many hotels Madre and Isola dei Pescatori. parts of the vast gardens to myself. M along this road. Seasonal color, which 4 peaks in March and April, bursts from Whether exploring around Stresa or Exquisite antiques, fine sculptures, large shrubs of azaleas, roses and further afield on the lake, you’ll find valuable paintings and rare musical m

o hydrangeas. gardens galore and frequent mention instruments richly furnish the palace’s c . y l of the Borromeo family. On the rooms, accented with intricate plaster - a t i

f For me, nothing was more relaxing than Borromeo islands, you’ll find both. work, domed ceilings and marble o

m sitting on one of the park’s benches, floors. Alone, I lingered in the a e r

d enjoying the panorama of water and The aristocratic Borromeos have been a Neoclassic, pale blue domed ballroom, . w mountains. Changes in the weather highly prominent family since the late walked through the bedroom where w

w brought spell-binding vistas. As the sun - 14th century, when they were counts, Napoleon stayed in the late 18th centu - shine replaced clouds, mountains began cardinals and archbishops and the fam - ry. Only one other person was in the

The gardens are serene and tranquil, Borromeo, San Carlo di Borromeo, More Excursions from Stresa their simplicity a strong contrast to who was cardinal and archbishop of Isola Bella’s extravagant gardens. Milan. Completed in 1697, the almost a well-preserved medieval fortified Rocca Borromeo Planters made of woven reeds sur - 115-foot-tall copper statue is one of building. Frescoes of varying condi - The became the Borromeo’s round trees and herb gardens, and Europe’s largest. If you are fit, agile Rocca tions in official residence Sala della branches form trellises for espaliered and not claustrophobic, climb the depict a mili - when they pur - Giustizia plants. Open from late March to late stairs, ladders and metal bars up into tary victory of the first chased it in the mid- October. Adult entrance is 8.50€. For San Carlo’s head for looks through owner, 15th century. Its Ottone Visconti. more information, call (39) 0323 small windows at the amazing view. commanding view Kids will love the 12- 30556 and visit www.borromeoturis - (Or buy a postcard of the view). from atop a steep room doll and toy mo.it Santa Caterina del Sasso cliff above Angera museum, one of Statue of San Carlo speaks for the family’s power. Europe’s finest. Climb to the top of In 1170, Alberto Besozzi’s boat cap - the tower for terrific views of the Across the lake from La Rocca sized on the lake. Praying to St. The Rocca is an excellent example of southern part of Lake Maggiore. stands the huge statue of yet another Catherine, this wealthy merchant Author Ernest Heming way visited Stresa in 1948. In contrast to Isola Bella’s opu - lence, Isola dei Pescatori is simple and picturesque. It has been a fishing community for years, and Isola Bella a few fishermen still live there. Isola Madre rare and exotic ones, to Shops, restaurants and tiny houses line long Tapestry Hall, home to rare grow and fosters recur - the narrow cobbled streets, giving the 16th-century Flemish tapestries. rent blooming from island (not a Borromeo holding) a bit March to September. of a rustic atmosphere. One of the guards reminded me Villa Pallavicino Along with towering not to miss the six stone-studded grot - trees, carefully pruned topiaries, azal - Now about that zebra. Among its tos on the lowest level of the palace. eas, and rhododendrons, you’ll see neighbors at Parco della Villa Pallavicino They served as a lake-level retreat from orchids and espaliered citrus trees. are kangaroos, llamas, wallaby, goats, the summer heat. On this grey day the Lemon trees grow in large terracotta swans, an ostrich and several exotic stone-covered rooms were dark and a pots displaying the three-ring Borromeo birds. This zoological park, a 10- to 15- bit confining. At first, the combination symbol. White peacocks peck at flowers minute lakeside walk from the center of of empty rooms with the highly as they roam the gardens. Stresa, is an intriguing mix of gardens unusual style was somewhat spooky. and animals, along with a playground

Intricate stonework covers the walls for kids, a cafe and picnic areas. 3 1 0

But once I got immersed in studying and columns of the elaborate three-tier 2

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the detail and craftsmanship involved amphitheater. Statues and large plas - Just beyond the entrance, a series of c r in constructing these unique rooms, terwork shells fill niches, and more arches formed by cypress trees frame a M fascination replaced trepidation. Stones statues stand atop the many columns. vistas of the lake. Looming trees— of multiple sizes, shapes and colors oaks, magnolias, sequoias, larches, 5 form intricate designs covering every Isola Madre also has gardens, but on a chestnuts—and tree-size camellias and m

single surface—floors, walls, ceilings, less ornate scale. Its 20-acre botanical rhododendrons border the hilly path - o c . y columns and frames around sculp - garden features rare plants, exotic flowers way to the animal areas. l a t i

tures. Amazing. and Europe’s largest Kashmir cypress. f o

Villa Pallavicino, like all of Stresa, is a m a e r

The gardens, best described as Isola Madre’s palace is a museum with garden of delights. d . grandiose, cover ten gradually descend - antiques and artwork, along with an —Mary Ann Hemphill w w

ing terraces. The mild climate allows a extensive collection of dolls, puppet w rich variety of plants, including some theaters and china. continued on page 6

promised that if he would be saved, Funivia Stresa-Alpino-Mottarone Alpine Gardens include an artificial valley, terraced he would give all his money to the gardens of bright flowerbeds and On a clear day, ride 20 minutes on is an intermediate poor and live the rest of his life as a Il Giardino Alpina small waterfalls, a huge pond full of the Mottarone cable car to the top of stop on the Funivia ride. The 10-acre hermit. He did. waterlilies, the bog garden, oramental the mountain, an elevation of 4,892. gardens have a thousand species of fountains and waterworks. From the A subsequent complex became a The stunning view includes seven plants, most of them alpine varieties end of June to the end of October, hermitage, perched precariously on lakes, the plains of the Po Valley, and from several countries. Again, there’s a magnificent display of 300 sheer rocks above the lake across the rugged Alps. There are walking more stunning views await. Open varieties of dahlias. Open March to from Stresa. The small, tranquil and mountain biking trails and ski daily from April to October. Visit November. An adult ticket is 10€. For chapel has softly-hued frescoes from lifts. Pick up the cable car at Stresa’s www.giardinoalpinia.it more information, call (39) 0323 the 14th to 17th centuries. Whether Piazzale Lido, at the eastern end of 404555 or visit www.villataranto.it you arrive by boat or by car, there the lakeside promenade. For more Villa Taranto are many, many steps, but an eleva - information, call (39) 0323 30295 or Beginning in 1931, Scottish Captain tor now makes Santa Caterina easier visit www.stresa-mottarone.it Neil McEacharn created this out - to reach. standing botanical garden. Highlights Author Ernest Heming way visited Stresa in 1948. De-Stressing in Stresa continued from page 5 THE DETAILS

Hotel La Palma L’Angolo del Gelato Getting Around Corso Umberto I, 33 Piazza Cadorna, 38 and Corso Mazzini, 3 (39) 0323 32401 (39) 392 0122020 Stresa Tourist Office www.hlapalma.it www.langolodelgelato.com Located at the ferry station Rates: Double lake view rooms range from Wonderful gelato artigianale made in-house. (39) 0323 30150 160 to 250€, depending upon the season. Try the unusual violetta flavor. The Corso Mazzini www.visitstresa.com Includes breakfast. location has two chocolate fountains—one for www.stresa.com dark chocolate, the other for white. An easy five-minute walk to town. The rooftop Sky Bar has an absolutely stunning panorama of Navigazione Lago Maggiore the lake, the mountains and Isola Bella. Salumeria Musso di Bianchetti Augusto Piazza Marconi, 3 (at the boat dock) Via Mazzini, 1 (39) 0323 30393 (39) 0323 30402 www.navigazionelaghi.it Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées Extensive selection of food products and Corso Umberto I, 67 There is regular boat service from Stresa to the wonderful aromas from the fresh food case. (39) 0323 938938 Borromean Islands and to towns around the Order a delicious cheese and salami sandwich www.borromees.it Borromean Bay. Rover tickets allow you a full day to eat on a lakeside bench. of hopping on and off the boats, and other tickets Rates: Double lake view rooms from 300 to 410€.

3 Breakfast included. 1 combine the boat fare with admission to various 0 2 sights. Daily ferries go to many towns— Arona to h This sumptuous hotel is also an easy walk to

c Where to Shop r the south; and to the north; a Baveno Cannobio town. Ernest Hemingway, who stayed here

M even further north to and in Ascona Locarno several times, mentioned the hotel in his book, Leone Switzerland. 6 A Farewell to Arms. Via Principe Tommaso, 19 Ticket prices are by zone, varying according to the (39) 0323 31516

m distance traveled. For example, a ticket from Leone is a wonderful bookstore, with plenty of o c . books in English. It also sells cards, journals y

l Stresa to Isola Bella is 3.90€. Likewise, the Where to Eat a t

i with covers depicting Lake Maggiore and other

f one-day Rover Tickets are priced according to o stationery and gift items.

m zones. They range from 6.10€ to 30.10€ Osteria Degli Amici a

e Via A. M. Bolongaro, 31 r d . Private Boats: There are private taxi boat w (39) 0323 30453 Cartolibereria de Mauri

w operators, and their fast-pitched sales talk can be

w Lovely vine-covered terrace with heat lamps and Piazza Cadorna, 35 very annoying. The salesmen often wear white inside seating. Try the fabulous tagliata alla (39) 0323 32658 uniforms and caps, so they appear to be part of rosmarina (sizzling hot thin strips of steak cooked This store is wonderful for anyone who loves the Navigazione Laghi staff. with rosemary). paper—stationery, wrapping paper, journals with modern and vintage designs. It has old and Ristorante Fiorentino reproduction prints, vintage items and posters. Where to Stay Via A.M. Bolongaro, 9 (39) 0323 30254 Erboisteria L’Hotel Milan Speranza au Lac www.hotelfiorentino.com Piazza Cadorna, 30 Piazza Marconi, 6 Family operated, local specialties. Garden dining (39) 0323 33697 (39) 0323 31178 in the summer. Specializes in herbal teas and remedies and www.milansperanza.it natural products. The fragrances, soaps and Rates: Double lake view rooms range from Taverna del Pappagallo candles named after local landmarks are great 90 to 198€, depending upon the season. Via Principessa Margherita 46 gifts. Includes breakfast. (39) 0323 30411 The hotel is a good value and is conveniently www.tavernapappagallo.com located in Stresa, just across the street from the Closed Wednesday ferry landing. Family operated, focusing on regional specialties made with local products. Italy shares borders w ith four other countries. I t a l y s h a r e s b o r d e r s w i t h t o c m t f F V ( M j p r m t f e T t t b f A S b L a d c f f I s b r S b L t T A s o r h r h h r a H r o a r

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Into a pan of hot bubbling oil went the lightly floured canocchie and moeche, with Enrica joking: “And you don’t worry about using fancy pans, that’s like saying you need an expensive mattress to have good sex!"

“This is the only place to buy fish,” she dyed in neon colors—magenta, hands.” The flavors were swoon- said when we landed in front of Marco turquoise, emerald. inducing. The egg had cooked inside Bergamasco’s Rialto market stall. “His the delicate, salty moeche, the canoc - prices are three times as high as the Like Patrizia, Enrica obliged my chie was reminiscent of lobster, but others, but his fish is a thousand times request to make Sarde in Saor, and after softer and bursting with deep richness. better.” As she studied the table, her we made it together, she wrapped it dark eyes sparkled when she caught up. “You can’t eat this for at least three We moved on to steam tiny clams in sight of moeche (soft shell crabs) and days, in a week it will be fantastic!” white wine, remove them from the

3 canocchie (a Venetian mantis shrimp). shells (a nice touch that removes the 1 0

2 These two delicacies are only available Our class focused on the treasures bother of shelling while eating), and

h

c for short periods of time in the spring she’d bought at Marco’s stall. “You then mixed them with freshly sautéed r a and fall. don’t do too much with these,” she tomatoes and bigoli (a thick spaghetti- M said, as she broke two like Venetian pasta). I savored the 8 “We must have them,” eggs in a bowl and steaming bowl in reverent silence and Enrica said, “and ten - placed the still squirm - then looked up to see Enrica smiling m

o nille with pasta,” she ing moeche on top of and nodding. “You taste the sea,” she c . y l added, picking up a them. About a half an said. “Now you know the fish, you a t i

f bag of tiny clams. On hour later, she held out know Venice.” o

m our way out she spot - the bowl for me to see a

e Ca Pisani’s Venice Cooking Course Package r

d ted ripe orange Kaki — that the egg had disap - . (39) 041 2401411 w a variety of persim - peared. w www.capisanihotel.it w mon that turned out Where to Eat Rates: 570 to 750€ per person to be perfect for our “The moeche ate it, now The package includes three nights in a double- dessert. Sarde in Saor we fry!” Into a pan of standard room, with breakfast, a half- day cooking hot bubbling oil went in Venice class with Countess Enrica Rocca, 4-course din - Enrica’s apartment is the lightly floured If you’re looking to eat Sarde in Saor in ner at La Rivista Wine Bar, and two one-hour tucked into a narrow canocchie and moeche, Venice, here are top restaurants that relaxing Shiatsu treatments in your room. alley in my favorite serve excellent Venetian classics. Both with Enrica joking: Venetian sestiere: the are small and require reservations: “And you don’t worry —Susan Van Allen Dorsoduro. It’s a mod - about using fancy Frequent Dream of Italy contributor ern studio, perfectly Osteria Oliva Nera pans, that’s like Susan Van Allen has a new book out: designed for cooking Castello 3417/18 (near San Zaccaria) saying you need Letters from Italy: Confessions, and entertaining. The (39) 041 5222170 an expensive mat - Adventures, and Advice. She is also centerpiece is a mas - www.olivanera.com tress to have good leading a Golden Week in Tuscany: For Women Only tour this fall. sive marble island sex!” Antiche Carampane For more information, visit with a 6-burner stove, San Polo 1911 (near Rialto) www.susanvanallen.com surrounded by stools (39) 041 5240165 Soon the moment that have distinctive www.antichecarampane.com arrived: “Now you cushions covered in Closed Sunday and Monday taste!” Enrica said. African antelope skins “Eat with your 1€ = $1.28 at press time The Venetian Republic was ruled by the Doge.