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.Iournal of Coastal Research 4[)7 4HI Fort Lauderdale, Florida Spring 1992 I Inlet Migration and Hydraulic Processes at East Pass, Florida Andrew Morang Coastal Engineering Research Center U.S,Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg, MS ;~9180-6199. U.S.A. ABSTRA{=T _ MOHAN(;, A., 1992. Inlet Migrat ion and Hydraulic Processes at East Pass, Florida. Journal (if Coast.al ,ttlllllll:. Research, Hen, ·1;)7 481. Fort Lauderdale (Florida), ISSN 0719-0208. East Pass, a tidal inlet in the Florida Panhandle between Pensacola and Panama City, connects Choc •• • tawhatchee Bay to the Gulf of Mexico. From 198;{ t.o 1991, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers sponsored ~ ~ a monitoring project to measure waVCH, currents. tidal elevations, bathymetry, and shoreline changes at ass'#" the site. Based on these data and on historical records, a three-phase model has heen developed which --+4 describes the inlet's behavior during the last. 120 years. The first phase (pre-1928) is of spit development 1+-- and breaching and covers the period when the pass was oriented in a northwest-southeast direction between Choctawhatchee Bay and the Gulf. From 1928 to 1968, the inlet was characterized by the second phase: stable throat position but with a main ebb channel that migrated over a developing ebb-tidal delta. This phase covers the time after the inlet breached through Santa Rosa Island in a north-south direction and began to migrate to the east. The third phase, spanning 1968, when rubble-mound jetties were built, to the present is characterized by a stable throat and ebb channel, and ebb-tidal shoal growth. Despite the jetties, East Pass has continued to demonstrate a tendency to move eastward. The driving forces of the eastward migration are hypothesized to be: (I) Wave forces. The predominant wave direction measured in lO-m water depth is from the southwest, while the shoreline trends east-west. (2) Backbay tidal channel and flood-tidal shoal geometry direct ehb currents towards the eastern shore of the inlet. (:n Because of freshwater inputs, the ebb flow is longer in duration and higher in velocity than the flood. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS; Ebb-tidal shoal, erosion, jetties, nearshore wave measurement.s, Santa Rosa Island, tidal hydraulics, tidal inlet. INTRODUC:TI()N nel may occur. During the 1970's, the beach im East Pass is a tidal inlet located in the Florida mediately north of the east jetty was cut back so Panhandle along the north-eastern Gulf of Mex severely that the inlet threatened to undermine ico shoreline (Figure 1). Wave energy is generally the landward end of the jetty. Therefore, a 90-m low, with less than 10 percent of the waves mea long spur jetty was huilt in 1977 to divert the How sured in a 4-year period greater than 1.0 m high of water further towards the center ofthe channel. and wave period typically less than 6.0 sec. 'rides Since then, deep scour holes have formed at the are diurnal, with maximum range less than O.G m. toe of the spur. In February, 1990 the writer ob Despite the relatively low energy along this shore, served that the spur was only 60 m long, having the morphology and the behavior of the inlet lost :10 m during the previous winter months. By resembles those of inlets found along the much March, 1991, another ~~o m had disappeared. higher energy Atlantic coast of the lJnited States 1\) assess the causes of instability at East Pass, (e.g. BOOTHROYD, 1985; IIANSEN and KNOWLES, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers sponsored a 1988). monit.oring project to measure wave and hydraulic Rubble-mound breakwaters were built in 1967 conditions. 'This paper discusses the data collect 1969 by the United States Army Corps of Engi ed between 19H:~ and 1991 at the site. Interpre neers to stabilize the mouth of the inlet and im tations are based on these data and on historic prove navigation. Nevertheless, expensive dredg maps and earlier data collected by the Corps of ing and repair have continued to be needed. The f~ngineers. inlet continues to require significant dredging be (~E()GRAPHY AND GEOL()GY OF cause of thalweg migration. In addition, the east EAST PASS ern shore of the channel has eroded severely, con dominiums (built on an ephemeral sand spit) are General threatened, and a breakthrough to a former chan- East Pass, the only direct entrance from the Gulf of Mexico into Choct.awhatchce Bay, is lo 91078received 6 September 1991; accepted in revision 12 December 199L cated on the northwest coast of Florida 70 km 458 Morang I , ( ,i , , ') I ~ I (' ,; -N- .) i A LA. I J " ~ i, \ i I .i i, l, MIS S. i, \, I GA. , ----._------------~, MOBILE. FLA. \, ~-~-~~-~----~~--- ~ TALLAHASSEE ". GU LF o F » AI E -r leo ~ ,1 SCALES 25 0 25 50 MI -" ............ 40 0 40 80 KM VICINITY MAP ...... ...... I Figure 1. Vicinity map, Ea~t Pass, Destin, Florida. ! east of Pensacola and 80 km northwest of Panama Choctawhatchce Bay City (Figure 1). Its latitude and longitude are ;10°2:)' Choctawhatchee Hay, landlocked except for East N and HGO:~l' W. The pass lies between Santa Rosa Island on the west and Moreno Point on the east Pass and Santa Rosa Sound, has an area of about ;~16 (Figure 2). Santa Rosa Island is a long, narrow sq krn including the tributary bayous. The barrier beach which extends about 70 km along bay is about 48 km Jong east to west and averages the coast from East Pass to Pensacola Pass. Santa 6 krn in width. Forty-one sq km of the bay are Rosa Sound, imrnediately north of the barrier, is over 9 m deep, and some depressions are 12 m a natural waterway connecting Pensacola and (U.S. CONCHESS, 1950). Santa Rosa Sound enters Choctawhatchee Rays. For Gkm west of the pass, the southwest end of the bay and the Intracoastal Santa Rosa Island is part of ~:glin Air Force Base Waterway canal to St. Andrews Bay enters at the (AFJ~) and has remained mostly undeveloped. east end. Garniers, Boggy, llocky, and La Grange Moreno Point is the western end of the peninsula Bayous flow into the north side of the bay and which separates Choct.awhatchee Hay from the the Choctawhatchee River into the east. The lat Gulf of Mexico. The town of I)estin is imrnedi ter river is 2HO krn long and drains 1:.3,500 sq km at.ely north of Old Pass Lagoon, the pre-1928 inlet. in west Florida and southeast Alabama. The river The east side of the pass near the jetties consists is heavily loaded with silt and clay sediments, of a sand spit, known as Norriego Point, which which are being deposited in a delta at the eastern formed in 19:i5. This spit and the low beach im end of the bay. mediately to the east have been developed with Salinity at the bottom of Choctawhatchee Bay condominiums and canals since the 1970's. ranged Irorn 22 to :HY:;l(' (parts per thousand) in .lournal of Coastal Resi-arch, Vol, H, No.2, 199:2 88'40' 86' 30'30' ~''l)' ~ -N- ~ I ~ $: 3\:1'20' 30'20'1 ~. ~. ~ :r: 1 rt ~ ;; I J~'lO' 30'10' FLORIDA CHOCTAWHATCHEE BAY LEGEND ~ BASED ON NOM CHAATS S11388 ~RN.. 1988 3 4 ? n385 J~ 1978 ~ TIDE C~£ LOCATIONS DEPTHS IN lo4ETERS BELOW .....W , 0 , 2 J 4- 5 8 7 8 9 10 KILD~ETERS 88'40' 880~' 86'20' ""'10' Figure 2. Choctawhatchee Bay and surrounding region. *""~ .... ~ 'i:"",,:'~'''':~ ~~~~~'.\ \-\ ) 460 Morang l. .Iune, 1965 (GOLDSMITH, 1966). Salinity may be :~ to 4 In above the clean white Holocene beach. highly variable because during storms the rivers The wide sandy beach just east of the inlet and ( and bayous can supply a significant amount of south of Old Pass Lagoon was part of Santa Rosa fresh water into the bay (U.S. ENCINEER OFFICE, Island before the present channel was cut in 1928. MOHILE, 19:19). Also, freshwater springs How into Since the 1970's, this area has been developed I, the bay bottom (F.F. ESCOFFIEH, personal com with canals, roads, and multi-Boor condomini munication, 1990). ums. A wide shoal along the edge of Choctawhatchee Longshore Drift Ray contains primarily coarse sand, while silt is the dominant sediment in the deeper parts of the There has been controversy in the technical lit bay. A large sand area in the southwest corner of erature and within the Corps of Engineers about the bay, north of Santa Rosa Island, is of notable the predominant drift direction in the vicinity of interest because it is probably a deposit of Hold" East Pass. Many researchers have considered it I reworked sediments (}OLDSMITH, 1966). 'The to be westerly along the western Florida Panhan , quartz grains there are yellowish and are rounded dle (KWON, 1969; lJ.S. ENGINEER OFFICE, MOBILE, ~ and well-sorted. This is in contrast to the clean 19~~9; U.S. AHMY ENGINEER DISTRICT, MOBILE, white, angular grains found in ~~ast Pass and along 196:~; WALTON, 197:~; WHIGHT and SONU, 1975). the shorelines facing the (;ulf of Mexico. Puhlished estimates of the amount of net drift vary considerably. STON}<~ (1990) believes that the I. Santa Rosa Island Pleistocene headland east of Destin is the primary ( Santa Rosa Island is the second longest (84 kml source of sand along this part of the coastline and harrier island on the Gulf Coast, hut averages only that net transport is westward towards Pensacola :.100-500 ill in width (OTVOS, 19H2).