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Home , Corciano, Gubbio, Solomeo, Spoleto, Umbria

INSIDE: The Sporting Vacation 4 A Guide to New Italian Holiday? 6 Noteworthy Travels 7 Where to Eat and Stay TOWNS in Umbria 8 , practically synonymous with St. Francis, is home to one of the most famous churches in all of , the Basilica di San

Ann Misura Francesco, begun in 1228 to hold the bones of the saint.

DERUTA has been the ceramics capital of Umbria since the 13th century. If you’re dream of looking for decorative plates, this is place, although after a while, the towns many ceramic shops all look the same.

GUBBIO has been called the perfect medieval hill town. Visitors can explore the , which look down upon the town.

NORCIA’s claim to fame is meat.This tradi- tional town’s chief export is prosciutto. The ITALYVolume 3, Issue 3 www.dreamofitaly.com 2004 Nursini have displayed fine butchering skills for centuries.

ORVIETO, once an Etruscan stronghold, Quiet Umbria provides a window on the life and times of the Etruscans before the Romans sacked the Surges with Spirit city in 265 B.C. Visit three archaelogical museums and the tufa (soft rock) caverns tanding at an overlook at as Umbria has been dubbed, is not constructed by the Etruscans. ’s Orvieto’s hidden Piazza San overrun by tourists. striking Duomo is the city’s most popular Giovenale with only a neighbor- attraction. hood cat vying for the spectac- Umbria dates back to pre-Roman times S , the capital of the region, might ular view, I catch a late-afternoon sun when it was inhabited by Etruscans, an be best known as the home to Perugina dripping across Umbria’s rolling hills, enigmatic people who traded with the chocolates (yes,you can visit the factory).But a pastoral scene lifted from Greeks. Eventually, the area this city has much more to offer, including a the background of a 15th-cen- was colonized by , then university for foreigners, an annual jazz festi- tury Perugino painting. Lying plundered by marauding val and national gallery devoted to Umbrian

at the geographic center of Maria I. Di Cristina invaders during the Middle art. Italy, Umbria is a small, land- Ages. The forces of popes and locked region located midway emperors strafed the area for hosts music and art festivals, between Rome and . centuries before the papacy most notably the world famous Spoleto Bordering well-known took control right up until Festival held each July. With numerous visi- , it’s often dismissed in 1861. tors, Spoleto offers good lodging and dining as that trendy region’s plainer options.Visit the 12th-century Duomo and sister—humbler, sparser, more rural. Descended from small, warring city- the Teatro Romano. But while Umbria lacks a city with the states that continually feuded with one charms visitors from the moment star power of a Florence, it shares another, today’s towns peek out from they arrive.This hill town has a perfect piaz- much of Tuscany’s allure: medieval behind massive walls atop the steepest za, medieval streets and stunning vistas. Many hilltop towns, traditional culture and hills, testimony to their violent past. foreigners have discovered this gem and pur- food, and dreamy landscapes of silvery (As are town names such as Sanguineto, chased homes nearby. olive trees and vineyards. Best of all, continued on page 2 this “ heart of Italy,” Umbria is often called “Tuscany’s little sister.” Quiet Umbria Surges with Spirit continued from page 1

a reference to blood.) Isolation and An important Etruscan city, Perugia who lives in Orvieto and conducts insularity linger today, locals say. boasts ancient historical sights along a food and wine tours of the region, and People identify strongly with a particu- labyrinth of narrow streets funneling who kindly agrees to give me a primer. lar place and maintain inter-town down from Corso Vannucci, a pedestri- “This isn’t because such rivalries. an boulevard lined with fountains, a thing doesn’t exist,” she explains small squares, and ancient buildings. shortly after we meet. “Food is always For travelers, this campanilismo, or Planning to spend a few hours there, I regional. Umbria has Umbrian food, “attachment to your own tower,” has linger for most of a day, engrossed in which is based on what is produced left a rich legacy. Ancient towns are the five-story palaces of polished stone, here.” well preserved. Local, traditional food pocked with age, and the lively street has survived almost unchanged. scene energized by street performers, Umbria is famous for its black , Townspeople know and embrace their vendors selling pizza al taglio (by the the exotic, pungent fungi that grow history, which also is steeped in slice), and chic shops (Benetton cloth- underground in its oak woods. The saints, mystics, and pilgrims. ing, Calvin Klein watches). At dusk, I region boasts pork products—, Bloody Umbria is the birth- find myself still on the boule- roast pig stuffed and cooked in a place of St. Benedict, patriarch vard, strolling past sidewalk wood-fired oven, is a specialty—wild of Western monasticism, and cafes with townspeople and mushrooms, tangy cheese, St. Francis, whose vows of students participating in the and prized lentils. It produces some of poverty sparked a spiritual passeggiata, the regular Italy’s best and has a growing revolution in the . evening promenade. reputation for good wines. Whites “Umbrians are have dominated—Orvieto Classico is ‘Francesconi,’” an Orvieto In the following well known in the U.S.—but the coffee shop owner told me. days, I use Perugia as sagrantino grape, which produces a 2 “Reserved, modest people a base for day trips. It full-flavored, deep-colored wine, is who are happy with a house, a lies within an hour’s car ride now all the rage. small farm….” to key areas—, , Assisi, Todi, Isidori has a handy philos- I arrive in Perugia, a sprawling city Spoleto, Orvieto—and also is ophy for food: Keep it sim- with a youthful, international flavor— within striking distance of ple and seasonal, and use it’s a university town with a major Tuscany. Each town has its only high-quality ingredi- summer jazz festival—and find it own appeal, but they tend to ents. On the road to resplendent with palazzi, churches, and seduce you in a similar way. Gubbio, we stop at Castello museums that trace the region’s turbu- de Magrano, where Remo

lent history. A modern-day escalator Most have lovely churches, Gisella Isidori Giunta, a nobleman’s leads me up a jagged hill through Rapunzel-like towers, and descendant, makes com- Rocca Paolina, a fortress built by a pope terra-cotta-tiled houses mercial -based in 1540 to subjugate the city. Climbing spilling down hillsides in sauces and foods. Having through an underground city of old postcard-perfect form. earlier found truffle- streets, the escalator delivers me near Country roads roam based oils too strong for the main square. Two massive build- through a harmonious my taste, I’m wary of ings dominate: the San Lorenzo cathe- blend of forest (scattered what’s being prepared: Gisella Isidori dral and the Palazzo dei Priori, a 15th- oaks, cypresses), cultivated crostini appetizers featur- century palace housing the National land (olives, grapes, sunflowers), and ing different truffle spreads, followed Gallery of Umbria. This art museum stone farmhouses in just the right state by a turkey Norcina (a paste of truffles, represents Umbria’s Golden Age, of neglect and neediness to stimulate garlic, and olive oil). But they’re sump- displaying Renaissance-era, religious cruel fantasies of bagging your day job tuous—smooth and aromatic, not the paintings created by Perugino, and moving to Italy. In addition, each blast of moldy earth I feared. “You’re ’s teacher, Pinturicchio, and town has great food. used to products with chemical addi- Piero della Francesca. tives,” Giunta says. “They produce an This I learn thanks to Gisella Isidori, off-taste.” Umbria is the only Italian region that doe Gavin Crawford The next day, a dinner at Locanda about Umbria. While the region’s Country House introduces me medieval looks initially seized my to formaggio di fossa, or “pit cheese,” a imagination, its food is providing the pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese buried follow-through, connecting me to its and aged underground for three people and heart. “The food here is a months. “It’s the most expensive living tradition,” Isidori says that cheese in Italy,” Isidori whispers. evening. “In Umbria, the simple “Probably $80 a pound in New York.” tratorrie are the best. You see the roots I bite into a chunk. Sharp and extra- of the culture.”

pungent, it tastes like Parmesan cheese Orvieto that’s been hiding out since Gavin Crawford . named Claudia Spatola-Faina, whose prominent Orvieto family bought the In Foligno, we visit Il Bacco Felice, an property in 1752. unpretentious wine bar with four tables squeezed in among shelves of When Spatola-Faina arrived in 1982, it wine. During a two-hour feast of had been abandoned, and today she snacks, Salvatore Denaro serves us has refurbished it by converting the robust Rosso red wine and la farmers’ houses and barn into apart- cucina povera— ments and rooms. More rustic than Orvieto humble, soul- continued on page 8 ful, inspiring If the food hooks me, the landscape

Maria I. Di Cristina peasant food outside Orvieto reels me in for good. dream of that causes me Dramatically perched high atop a vol- 3 to stop taking canic bluff as if floating in clouds, notes and lose Orvieto combines the best of old and myself in a new, offering magnificent medieval ITALY procession of palaces with cosmopolitan galleries, Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief delightful ceramics shops, and delis that sell offerings: pan- Umbria’s legendary salamis, prosciut- Foligno Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe zanella, a to, and cheeses. The city is famous for Editorial Assistants: Marielena Martone bread-and-vegetable salad with creamy one of Italy’s finest Romanesque- Kate Potterfield Design: Leaird Designs mozzarella di bufala; torta al testo, a tasty Gothic cathedrals, a 13th-century www.leaird-designs.com flatbread containing warm soft cheese; duomo celebrated for its architecture— Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering home-made salami, paper-thin slices of fairytale pointed arches and sculpted Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. heavenly prosciutto; a rich, potato- turrets—ornate façades, and recently Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- casserole dish, and peppery, garlicky restored frescoes. able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include fava beans. online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. With Isidori’s prodding, I head out of Three ways to subscribe: 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Finally, Denaro, curly-haired, middle town to spend my final day in the cam- Washington, DC, 20016 aged, and comical, appears at our table pagna, the countryside. About 10 miles 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 in a red apron to have us sample a outside Orvieto, a turn-off leads down 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa and Mastercard accepted) black-cabbage soup made with a spe- a narrow lane and cuts through wilder- Editorial feedback is welcome. cial, rare white bean. After tasting it, an ness to emerge at Borgo Spante, a coun- E-mail: [email protected] Italian woman at the table exclaims, E try estate dating back to the 15th centu- Advertising opportunities are available. la morte sua! This translates as “It’s its ry. The entrance leads past tall cypress E-mail: [email protected] death,” but apparently means some- trees and a belltower to reach a main Copyright © 2004 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- thing like “It’s to die for!” villa, farmers’ houses, a barn, chapel, mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide and gardens. An agriturismo, Borgo information that is accurate and reliable; however, I am beginning to feel the same way Spante is run by an engaging Countess Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur. www.dreamofitaly.com s not border the sea or a foreign country. Get Your Sports Fix, Are you looking for more physical activity on your next trip to Italy besides lifting a wine glass and a f sounds of la dolce vita. Whether you’re looking for an afternoon of exercise or a whole trip centered aro

ing in some beautiful seaside support. Canadian company Radonnee Biking resorts. Ciclismo offers five- (204) 475-6939; www.randonneetours.com) to 15- day biking trips for all offers eight and nine-day do-it-yourself Almost every corner of Italia begs abilities throughout Italy. programs in Tuscany and Umbria starting to be explored by bike. That might Backroads (800-GO-ACTIVE; at $2110 per person. For 1245€ per person, not seem like an easy or safe task. Ciclismo Classico www.back roads.com) is the Cicloposse has three six-night itineraries That’s why guided and self-guided cycling grandaddy of biking vacations and has an in Tuscany and Umbria that include four- tours are ideal. Most include equipment rental assortment of luxurious Italian options star accommodations. and emergency support. Guided tours usually targeted at specific audiences such as Watch: The major spectator cycling event have a van following the group, ensuring safe- families, singles and those who would like in Italy is the Giro d’Italia, which kicks off ty, support and luggage delivery. Local guides to add another sport to the adventure. this year in on May 8 and finishes (ask to make sure they are bilingual) can take Prices start at $2,800 per person. Tuscany- in , May 30. (www.giroditalia.it) you to spots you never would have found on based Cicloposse (39 0578-749983; your own. www.cicloposse.com), owned by a Note: If you just want a taste of cycling, husband and wife team, runs guided tours Tours: Ciclismo Classico (800-866-7314; the guides at Cicloposse can take you for in Tuscany, Umbria and Puglia starting at www.ciclismoclassico.com) has specialized a day-tour of Chianti or southern Tuscany 2,445€ per person. € in Italian biking trips for 16 years. Outside (Price: 150 per person for two people; 100€ per person for five to eight; includes 4 Magazine just selected their Bike Across On Your Own: These operators basically lunch.) as the Best Tour of Western provide everything but the guide, includ- Europe 2004. The 12-day intermediate-abil- ing detailed route maps and emergency ity tour costs $3,795 per person, with lodg-

aboard their Golf Cruise. On Your Own: Rent a car if you want to Golf Golfers visit Lake Maggiore, Cremona, play at Country Club Castelgandolfo (39 , , Padua and aboard 06-931-2301) outside Rome. The course, Golf remains an exclusive game in Italy. The the luxurious River Cloud 2 near the Pope’s summer resi- average Italian has never picked up a club. and play golf at about five or dence, was designed by Resorts are building new courses in order to six clubs. A noted golf profes- Robert Trent Jones inside a lure foreign visitors. Most Italian courses sional joins the trip. Kalos dormant volcano crater. Fees welcome guest players if you can provide proof offers an optional tour to Villa start at 47€ per day. Venice of membership at a home club and/or proof of d’Este on Lake Como, which may seem an unlikely place your handicap. Green fees are often charged has one of Europe’s best to play golf, but Circolo Golf per day, not per round. While most high-end courses. The cruise runs June Venezia (39 041-731-333) is hotels will help you set up golf outings, if 2-13, 2004 and September 22- Kalos Golf considered one of the coun- you’re a diehard duffer, a golf tour might be October 3, 2004 and is priced try’s top courses. Non-mem- the way to go. at $6,195 per person. Palazzo Arzaga (39 bers can play but must show proof of 030-680-600; www.palazzoarzaga.it), a membership at another golf club. Fees Tours: ITC Golf Tours (800-257-4981; five-star golf and spa resort in Italy's start at 50€ per day. www.itcgolf-africatours.com) offers three- region above Lake Garda, and five-day golf tours centered on Venice, Watch: The 61st Telecom Italia Open, offers golf packages. The resort has two Milan and the lakes, Tuscany or Rome. part of the PGA European Tour, takes 18-hole courses, including one designed Travelers can select hotels. Enjoy hitting place just outside Milan at Castello di by Jack Nicklaus, and Europe’s first PGA the seas (in this case, the river) as well as Tolcinasco Golf & Country Club, April Teaching and Learning Center. the links? Kalos Golf (919-942-3464; 29-May 2, 2004. (39 029-072-2740; www.kalos golf.com) lets you do both www.europeantour.com) Un belle gioco dura poco. (A good game Italian Style fork? Italy offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the sporting life while taking in the sights and ound one activity, our cheat sheet, while by no means comprehensive, will get you started:

Run/Watch: All of these marathons offer On Your Own: See Runner’s World shorter runs, ranging from 5K to half- Magazine (www.runnersworld) online for Running marathons. The starting line for the Rome the best places to run on your own in Italian streets and country roads aren’t neces- Marathon (www.maratonadiroma.it) is Florence and Rome. If your hotel doesn’t sarily the most jogger-friendly. Try to jog in a near the Colisseum and the route includes have a gym and you want to run on a city park or on a local trail. If you must jog on the Piazza Venezia, the Roman Forum and treadmill, buy a day pass for the Roman the road, be sure to run during daylight and the Vatican. Foreign runners interested in Sports Center (39 6 320 1667; www.roman wear brightly colored clothing. Italian towns, the March 28 race must enter through sportcenter.com) at Via del Galoppatoio, small and large, sponsor more than a dozen authorized tour operators to gain con- 33. marathons each year. firmed entry. The Venice Marathon Note: If a marathon is too easy for you, try (www.venicemarathon.it) which snakes the 100km del Passatore. The 62-mile, Tours: Marathon Tour (800-444-4097; through a maze of streets is known for overnight run through Tuscany starts in www.marathontour.com) has been taking being flat and fast. This year’s race is set Florence and continues through Fiesole, runners on international adventures for 25 for October 24. The Florence Marathon Borgo San Lorenzo, ending in Faenza. years. This year the operator will take (www.firenzemarathon.it) is considered Roadside vendors offer the runners wine, groups to the Rome and Venice one of the top 20 international marathons. mozzarella, prosciutto and panini along the marathons. The four-night Rome package On November 28, 2004, the race will start way. Overall, the participants and specta- with accommodations at the Hotel at Piazza Michaelangelo and meander tors’ tone is convivial and relaxed. This 5 Metropole costs $660 per person and through the heart of Florence. includes free race entry. year’s run is May 29-30. (http://100km.dinamica.it)

tion, five days of guided walking, most Umbria program, which runs in June and Hiking/Walking meals and transfers. Their October, includes stunning walks, Walk (Ravello, Scala, , Umbrian cooking lessons, four- Few countries provide more majestic hikes and Amalfi) offers a similar package star accommodations and all walks than Italy. The country’s hilly terrain for $1935 per person, March meals for $2595 per person. makes for challenging climbs and breathtaking through October. Girosole Self-guided: Girosole includes views. Along the way, there are frequent Walking Tours (805-682-7523; cell phone rental as part of opportunities to take in local food and culture. www.girosole.com) offers hiking their seven-night itineraries in Hiking isn’t easy though because trails are not and walking tours throughout Tuscany and Le . The well-marked and sometimes include busy the country, including the lesser- tours can be personalized and roads. Most experts agree that the best hiking traveled Le Marche, and Cross Country International start at $1,030 per person, terrain is in the country’s national parks. . Prices vary according to the including accommodations. Radonnee If you’re going on your own, pick up a book type of accommodations you select. While (see information under cycling) offers an such as Lonely Planet’s Walking in Italy before Girosole’s walking tours vary in ability, its eight-day self-guided tour including two- you go. hiking tours are geared toward the serious and three- star accommodations, detailed hiker with 20 kilometers or more of hiking Tours: Cross Country International (800- route instructions and emergency support each day. Nights are generally spent in 828-8768; www.walkingvacations.com) for $1675 per person. ◆ rifugi, which are small mountain inns. guides walkers through Tuscany (Brunello Check out Italian Connection (800-462- vineyards, , San Quirico d’Orcia) from —Kathy McCabe, Marielena Martone 7911; www.italian-connection.com) if you May through October for $2480 per per- and Kate Potterfield would like to combine walking with cook- son, including seven nights’ accommoda- ing. Their six-day Walking and Cooking in Note: All prices based on double occupancy. We will feature more sports such as tennis and horseback riding in upcoming issues. lasts a short time.) — Italian proverb News, Tips, Deals Consider New Public Holiday: COLUMBUS DAY verturning the old 2002, politicians in Italy battled to see proverb that no one is a hero in who could out-ceremony the inventor O his own country, Italians want who died in the U.S. in poverty. City “Annunciation” to celebrate Christopher officials in his birthplace of Columbus with a national Florence proposed a bas-relief holiday. Better late than in the Santa Croce church, Botticelli Exhibit never? where many local sons are honored, even if, like exhibit—of pro- Americans have been cele- Dante, they died in exile. Aportions never before seen— brating, and more recently is on display in Florence until July 11, contesting, the Italian The 1,500 Italian organiza- 2004.The Palazzo Strozzi hosts the explorer from Genoa off and tions behind the Columbus reunion of some of the artist’s most on since the late 1700s, his patrons Day initiative have their work cut important works on loan from cities the Spanish and countries in South out for them—as with Meucci, there’s such as Moscow,Venice, Madrid and America since 1915—but it took the very little of Columbus left to celebrate Chicago. 6 500th anniversary of his death in 2006 in Italy. Of the two tombs said to for Italians to jump on the bandwagon. contain his remains, both are on foreign The paintings began their tour in soil (one in Seville, Spain and the other Paris last September, just finishing on The proposed public fete is more than in Santo Domingo in the Dominican February 22. Museum-goers in just a nod to the past. Although Italy Republic) and the “Columbus House” Florence, where the exhibit opened on has a high number of public holidays in Genoa, thought to be where his March 11, are privy to special works (more than 16), almost all of them are mother’s house once stood, was built not seen in Paris. Among these novel- religious. The proposed Columbus long after his death. ties are two panels of the Annunciation Day, October 12, would be the first from Moscow’s Pushkin Museum, as national Italian holiday to celebrate an Daverio remains skeptical about well as the favorite Madonna and Child individual. whether plans for the holiday will come paintings from Boston, Chicago and to pass. “Another holiday in the fall Edinburgh.The exhibition reveals the “I’m not sure I see the point, really, why isn’t such a bad idea,” he says. “But it creative development of one of Columbus and not Dante or could end up the way of other propos- Renaissance Florence’s greatest Michelangelo?” says history teacher als like the one for a patron saint of painters, from his religious scenes to Alessandra Daverio. “This country has Italy — lots of talk, but it hasn’t made it his illustrations of the Divina Commedia had many great men, and their anniver- to the calendar yet.” to his Medici-commissioned portraits. saries are often honored with special initiatives so I don’t understand a Columbus Day lobbyists hope an early This tribute is rounded out with nods national holiday only for Columbus.” start will mean they’ll manage to push to Botticelli’s contemporaries.Works the holiday through the obstacle course by Leonardo da Vinci and Piero di Cosimo Not by chance Italians, who know the of the Italian government before the will be complemented by a section sailor as Cristoforo Colombo, plan to call 2006 anniversary. ◆ dedicated to one of Botticelli’s major the holiday “Columbus Day” in influences, . For more English. After American cousins —Nicole Martinelli, information, call (39) 055 2469600 or successfully lobbied Congress for zoomata.com visit www.botticellipalazzostrozzi.it ◆ recognition of the invention of the —Kate Potterfield telephone by Italian Antonio Meucci in “Many a trip continues long after movement in time and sp and Events G Fast Trains May Now Noteworthy Travels

Seem Slower to Smokers Mozzarella, limoncello, panzarotti, On March 1st, the ability to light up a cigarette sartu di riso, pasticcio, arancini, on Italy’s Eurostar trains went up in smoke. zuppa di pesce, pesce in sale, baba, First and second class smoking cars between pastiera, torta caprese. Whether or Milan, Rome, Florence, and all other not you are familiar with each of these Italian cities are now things of the past. Italy’s gastronomical masterpieces, Food health minister Girolamo Sirchia lauds the ban, Artisans’ culinary workshop saying “Smokers are also starting to acknowl- Treasures of : Dining edge that initiatives aimed at keeping the air See Italy alongside some of its oldest Under the Volcano will make sure clean are healthy and benefit everybody.” ◆ living inhabitants—a 500- year-old you are on good terms after their – K.P. wisteria vine, rare orchids, tropical weeklong trip. The days are filled with plants and medicinal herbs. Select outings that give an historic perspec- Italy’s weeklong Herb & Patrician tive of southern Italian cuisine. Guests Garden Tour highlights the best culti- will visit a pastificio (pasta producer) Giotto, Make Room for More! vated patches in Pavia, Florence, who uses a tried-and-true method from 1812 and learn how to prepare n a move that will please art the maze-like rooms and hallways. and the surrounding country- recipes for dishes served to 18th- lovers, Florence’s most famous side. Visit ascetic monasteries and I The Uffizi currently welcomes century Neapolitan nobles. While the 7 gallery, the Uffizi, plans on expand- discover the ancient monks’ personal 4,500 guests per day, and after the taste buds are stimulated, eyes will ing to include an extra 800 gardens. Become inspired by the added works, officials expect to enjoy a feast of their own. All of the pieces of art in a 60 mil- same citrus-lined coasts that touched see over 7,000 daily program hotels, including Sorrento’s lion euro renovation, a Percy B. Shelley. Indulge yourself in admirers. Exhibition elegant Excelsior Vittoria, have modification that will the sumptuous gardens of 15th to 19th space will go from panoramic views. The workshop runs allow the museum to century villas. And while on your jour- 6,000 square meters to twice in 2004: April 18 to 24 and boast over 2,000 of ney, why not take a couple of cooking over 13,000 square September 26 to October 2. Price: the most famous art- classes at local trattorias, go wine- meters.Tourists and regu- 2850€ (based on double occupancy) works in history.The tasting at a castle, drop in on a live lars, fear not – although the includes luxury accommodations, all change will double the number concert and even bargain shop at the start date is uncertain, the meals and beverages, cooking class- of exhibition rooms to include largest Italian outlet mall? The next entire museum will NOT be es, visits to wine and food artisans works formerly kept in store- tour is May 12 to19, 2004. Price: closed during renovations, so go and ground transportation. For more rooms, and is the first large over- $3,200 per person includes seven ahead, ponder Venus’ birth all you information: (805) 963-7289; haul in decades, an alteration that nights in three or four star hotels, want… ◆ www.foodartisans.com would alleviate some of the diffi- breakfasts, two lunches, four dinners –Marielena Martone culties visitors face in navigating and transportation. Airfare not includ- –K.P. ed. For more information: (847) 853- 1661; selectitaly.com Plan Waaaaaaay Ahead The 2006 Winter Olympics in will take place February 10 to 26, 2006.We’ll bring you more information in the coming months (and years!) To keep up with developments, visit Courtesy Food Artisans www.torino2006.org ◆ ace have ceased.” —Steinbeck 1 € = $1.25 at press time Quiet Umbria Surges with Spirit continued from page 3

luxurious, Borgo Spante has cracked, ferent languages and the hard-working “Here, you can feel the earth,” the sloping-tile floors, walls that need Countess herself serves the meals with Countess says, smiling. “If you take a paint, and five dogs—no B&B pre- boisterous laughter. deep breath, you are filled with a beau- ciousness here—but the word spante tiful spirit, no?” means “altar” in the Etruscan lan- While I am there, the dogs curl under guage, a hint of the farmhouse’s tran- my feet as I savor fresh rabbit, ragu Yes, I nod. It’s true. ◆ quil, spiritual quality. pasta with a long-simmered pork For more information, visit www.umbria.org sauce, wild chicory, and wild mush- Its 500 acres of wilderness offer the rooms Spatola-Faina has foraged. But —Nick Gallo

solitude and relaxation of a retreat. the best moment comes when I am Aresident of soggy and rainy Seattle, Nick Gallo fan- Fruit trees and gardens produce much standing on a brick patio at dusk, the tasizes about leaving his day job for sunny Umbria. of what is served at its family-style air absolutely still except for the sound € dinner table, where visitors gab in dif- of a single cucolo, a cuckoo bird. 1 = $1.25 at press time

Where to STAY Country House Locanda Solomeo Borgo Spante Sangallo Palace Hotel Castello di Borgo Spante Locanda Solomeo Sangallo Palace Magrano This converted farmhouse Country House Hotel 8 Four modern apartments in with eight apartments and five An elegant villa, six miles from Sleek, four-star, 100-room a 1,000-year-old tower with rooms is located in a tranquil Perugia, set on the edge of an hotel conveniently located at a lyrical view of Umbria’s wilderness setting 10 miles old village with 12 rooms and the base of Perugia’s historic countryside. outside Orvieto. an excellent restaurant. center. (10 miles outside Perugia) Solomeo di Via Masi 9, Perugia (39) 075 9253354 (39) 075 8709134 (39) 075 5293119 (39) 075 5730202 www.castellodimagrano.com www.borgospante.it www.solomeo.it www.sangallo.it Rates: 60€ per person, per night, Rates: 106€ per night for a double Rates: In high season, doubles which includes breakfast and a room during low season and 120€ start at 170€, which includes feast-like dinner. during high season. continental breakfast.

★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★ Where to Il Bacco Felice L’Asino d’Oro TOURS A wine bar with light meals At an unassuming restaurant EAT featuring rabbit, hot vegetable just off Corso Cavour, Lucio soups, and the best selection of Sforza uses only the freshest Gisella Isidori breads, prosciutto, and cheeses ingredients for outstanding, Food and Travel in the region. traditional dishes, such as This English-speaking Orvieto Via Garibaldi, 73 cinghiale, in a juniper- resident organizes gastronomic Foligno flavored red sauce. Entrees tours in Italy and offers day € (39) 074 241019 start at 10 . tours of Umbria (200-250€). Vicolo del Popolo, 9 Call (39) 0763 393097 or Orvieto e-mail [email protected] L (39) 076 3344406 for more information. ★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★

Umbria covers less than three percent of Italy’s land area. Invitation to TUSCANY

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With 3000 years of history, offer you the very best of your stay, from choosing Our portfolio includes large the art and architecture of properties in Rome– the property that best suits 2/3 bedroom apts. with Rome spans the Imperial, carefully selected and your needs, to ensuring your multiple bathrooms and Classical, Renaissance, meticulously cared for. departure is worry-free. terrace, panoramic roof top Baroque and Modern. In Most of our properties are Knowledgeable and detailed, attics with terraces with Rome, there is something “exclusives,” ensuring that we will ensure that all your stunning views, one for everyone to enjoy. our extraordinarily high needs are met during your bedroom apts., villas near One lifetime, say the standards are always visit, arrange for car hire, Rome and also in Umbria. Romans, is simply not maintained. side trips, etc. enough to experience all and help make Properties are equipped the enchantment that is Roman your stay one with AC, landline phone, part of the Eternal City. Homes will that you will washing facilities, heat, help you with remember for satellite color TV, pool.

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