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Home , Ambareesh, Apthamitra, Bandhana, Bisle, Brahmagiri (Maharashtra), Chamundeshwari Temple

filmi escapes in MOVIES • CULTURE • LOCATIONS

This guide is researched and written by Indira Lakshminarayana Contents

Foreword...... 4 Karnataka Calling...... 6 Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around...... 10 Expert Recommendation...... 32 Coorg, Chikkamagaluru & Hassan...... 34 Expert Recommendation...... 50 Best of Karnataka...... 52 Index...... 60 Acknowledgements...... 62 4 plan your trip Lights, Camera, Action and Travel 5

foreword Mysuru and its surrounds like and are a food Lights, Camera, Action and Travel lover’s paradise, and are also home to pilgrimage and heritage sites and green spaces. The view from the top of , where the Sri Shivarajkumar is located, offers splendid panoramas of the city. The climb up the hill is a photographer’s delight. You can spot both nature Travel inspires movies, and movies inspire lovers and fitness enthusiasts around the Kukkarahalli Kere Lake, which also travel. And that’s why popular films, shot in has a jogger’s track. The regal majesty of the Palace that visited after watching the film Mayura (1975), will leave you impressed. For a vibrant beautiful locales across Karnataka, set serious experience, though, visit the palace during the Dasera festivities in autumn. travel goals. Iconic , and international movies have made the St Mary’s Island in and the Sigandur Temple, which can be reached by taking a boat ride on the backwaters of the , are scenic spots that state a hub for travellers seeking interesting you can see in films like America America (1995) and (2019). For destinations. my father, however, Muthathi, where we shot together for Mecchida Kannappa (1988), remained an all-time favourite location. In fact, he got the Travelling is not only among the biggest perks of being an actor but an name Mutthuraju from the Muthathi temple deity. integral part of my career. Karnataka has something for everyone and is extremely camera friendly. Even in this age of CGI domination, nothing can Turn the pages of this book and journey through the many worlds, both on ever match the beauty that awaits you at the actual locations. From David celuloid and in real life, that Karnataka offers the traveller in you. Lean’s Passage to and Jackie Chan’s The Myth, Karnataka has long been a part of celluloid magic. The writer is a leading Kannada film actor.

Hit Kannada films have helped transform many hidden travel gems A scene from Kavacha captures the rustic charms of Karnataka into popular tourist destinations. Yana in , which was an unexplored destination, became an incredibly popular tourist spot following the release of Nammoora Mandara Hoove (1997). Parts of my father, Dr ’s film, Ondu Muttina Kathe (1987) were also filmed in Yana. I had visited the sets to meet the renowned , the director. The trek to Yana was strenuous, and my father decided to spend the night in the caves where they were shooting instead of going back. It was a chilly night, but we made the most of it by talking the night away over over a satisfying menu of local delicacies.

Food is a big part of any travel experience, and I cultivated my taste for local cuisine with my father. He was, in fact, partial to food prepared in small local eateries and hotels. He felt that the firewood and manual stone grinders used to prepare dishes gave them their distinct flavour. His weakness was the dosa and coconut chutney in Mahadevpura near Mysuru, which was a must-have whenever he was filming there. This apart, Hanumanthu Hotel’s mutton pulav, dosa from Mylari or the well- blended, spicy sambar served in Mysuru, were all distinct tastes and aromas he enjoyed. 6 plan your trip Karnataka Calling 7

Karnataka Calling Karnataka’s varied topography of hills and valleys, beaches and heritage sites is as much a star in Kannada films as any of its actors. The scenic destinations in the state have inspired Indian and international filmmakers as well. Movie-inspired tourism is here to stay, and you can find both the adventure of travel and the magic of movies in Karnataka.

Travels with Kannada films

In the late 1960s, director Puttana Kanagal (p18) first took Kannada films out of the studios and set them in inspiring locales. Samskara (1970), in which playwright, theatre and film actor acted was shot in and around the temple , , in the Ghats and remains a travel hotspot. The hit television series Days (1987) was filmed A heritage walk with ‘Golden Star’ in ‘99 in (p47). nearby, featured in Jeevana Chaitra (1992) and (2006), showed the falls from an aerial view for the first time location Goals in Kannada films. Janumada Jodi (1996) was set in Mahadevpura near Mysuru. The film was such a massive hit that industry insiders called it a lucky charm for , a giant of , set his films in beautiful movies. Kumar Desai’s Namoora Mandara Hoove (1997), Nagathihalli locations. (1977) was set in Theerthahalli, (2002) Chandrashekar’s America America (1995), Rajendra Singh Babu had the River Sharavati as the backdrop, (2008) was filmed in (1984) ), Sheshadri’s Bettada Jeeva (2011), and Yograj Bhat’s Mungaru Male coastal Karnataka and Thayi Saheba (1997) in Rabakavi. (2006) all featured Karnataka’s inspiring travel locations. Bayalu Daari (1976), Paramathma (2011), Antha (1981) and Sharapanjara (1971) showed Dweepa is set by the River Sharavati the beauty of Chikkamagaluru (p34), (p36) and Coorg (p32). Heritage sites in , caves were the settings for Belli Kaalungura (1992) and Veera Madakari (2009); Mysuru, Chamundi Hills, KRS royal palace were used in Nenapirali (2005) and Mayura (1975); and Karnataka’s sanctuaries and waterfalls can be spotted in films like Nagarahole (1977) and Mynaa (2013). Uttara Kannada has been featured in films like Mastigudi (2017) and Raate (2015). Last but not the least, the capital Bengaluru (p12) has been a backdrop for many Kannada hits including Pallavi Anupallavi (1983), U-Turn (2016) and Anand (1986).

Travelling tastes While many of the stars of ‘Sandalwood’ or Kannada film world are ardent foodies (p28), food-themed films like Oggarane (2014) have paid homage to its rich cuisine. Traditional eateries and historic cafes and smart restaurants add to Karnataka’s culinary variety. 8 plan your trip need to know 9

Need to Know best weather to enjoy the beauty of the outdoors. You will need a light jacket or shawl as nights can get chilly.

April – May (low season): Even in these warmest months, the hilly areas are pleasant to visit. You can avail of good offers if you book early.

June – September (mid-season): During the . the incessant rains may curtail sightseeing, but you can enjoy the scenic landscapes from the comfort of a resort.

Accommodation & Eating Accommodation: Ranges used in the book: ``` over `5000; `` between `2000–5000; ` under `2000

Eating: Ranges used in the book include: ``` over `500; `` between `200–500; ` under `200

Quick Facts

Languages The main language spoken in Karnataka is Kannada, but travellers can get around easily with and English. Tamil and from neighbouring states are also spoken. Money Karnataka offers many camera-friendly spots for moviemakers ATMs of major private and state-owned banks can be found in the cities, but if you’re travelling to the smaller and villages, it is recommended When to Go you carry cash as ATMs may be available in a few hubs only. Most hotels October – March (high season): The coolest months are the best to explore allow card payment, and it’s best to book ahead. the state, with moderate temperatures in the range of 11°C–28°C. It is the Internet Access Mid to high-end hotels offer free wi-fi with varying degrees of speed and efficacy. In remote locations, the hotels and guesthouses may not provide Invitation to filmmakers Internet access. Mobile Connectivity According to the Karnataka Film Tourism Policy, 2018, the state has Providers such as Airtel, Vodafone and Jio offer 3G and 4G services announced financial assistance to filmmakers whose work highlight the throughout the state, except in remote locations where the signal may be tourist destinations across the state. The idea is to encourage filmmakers weak and sporadic. to use popular tourist hubs as filming locations and highlight the culture Tourist Information and heritage of 319 designated tourism destinations across Karnataka. Registered tourism offices are all over the state, with the main ones in Care will be taken to ensure that sensitive areas like sanctuaries and Bengaluru: The Department of Tourism (the Government of Karnataka) heritage monuments remain protected. and Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation. Visit www. karnatakatourism.org and www.kstdc.co for more details. 10 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 11

Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around

Why Go? Cosmopolitan Bengaluru is an exciting amalgam of sports, arts and the homegrown Kannada film industry. Mayor Muthanna (1969), Pallavi Anupallavi (1983), Aptharakshaka and Super (2010) were set here. Neighbouring Mysuru’s talent pool includes Puttana Kanagal, Rajendra Singh Babu, , Ashwath, , , MP Shankar and hit movies like Bandhana (1984), Janumada Jodi (1996), Bhuddivanta (2008) and (2016). Mandya is a favourite movie locale too.

Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & Around of the state. KSRTC city bus tours, cabs and autos are a convenient Bengaluru ways to get to Mandya. Kempegowda International Airport (www.bengaluruairport.com) and Suggested Itinerary Bengaluru’s train station (www. Day 1–3 Explore Bengaluru with bangalorecityrailwaystation.in) heritage walks with a halt at a Soul connect to the city. Karnataka Sante and pubbing in the evenings. State Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC; www.ksrtc.in), taxis, Day 4–6 Halt at Channapatna, private cabs and autos are good Srirangapatna en route to Mysuru, ways to move around the city, and and visit Mandya and its surrounds. also the efficient metro network. Best Time to Visit Mysuru September – March A well-oiled network of trains connects Mysuru to other parts

The glows at dusk 12 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 13

Karnataka Chitrakala the (Dr Ambedkar Parishath Rd) or the legislative chambers of This is a superb gallery with a wide the state government, and the neo- range of Indian and international art classical Attara Kacheri (high court). and Mysuru-style paintings and folk These make for arresting photo and Asian tribal art and paintings of backdrops. www.horticulture.kar.nic.in/ Russian master Nicholas Roerich. cubbon.htm; Kasturba Rd www.karnatakachitrakalaparishath.com; TAKE GREEN CITY Kumarakrupa Rd; `50; 10am–7.30pm and are Mon–Sat delightful movie settings. In ’s Pallavi Anupallavi Cubbon Park (1983), the chartbuster Naguva Cubbon Park is a 120-hectare garden Nayana showed the laidback beauty housing the Gothic-style State of Bengaluru. The song Tuvvi Tuvvi Central Library. On Sundays, there in the film Anand (1986) showcased are concerts, fun runs and even a the city’s landmarks like Central Bengaluru’s streetscape in the racy road drama U-turn farmers market. The Indo-Saracenic Library, Cubbon Park and the architecture around the park includes University Campus. 1 Sights The private residence of the Bengaluru Wodeyars, erstwhile maharajas Snapshot: The Bollywood connection of the state, the Bangalore Palace Rangoli Metro Art Centre preserves a slice of bygone royal Many Bollywood films have been based in Karnataka’s many locations. MG Road’s two-tiered pathway, splendour. Still the residence of the Coolie (1983) was filmed across Bengaluru. Utsav (1984), directed by along the 500m stretch just below current maharaja, an audio guide Girish Karnad, was set in Udupi. Pushpakana Vimana (1987) featured the the metro, is dotted with a gallery, provides a detailed explanation of ITC Windsor Hotel. Raja Hindustani shops, children’s play area, and an the building, and you can marvel (1996) was filmed in Balmuri Falls, artisans’ hub. at the lavish interiors and galleries near Mysuru. (2007) starring www.rmac.bmrc.co.in. Boulevard MG Rd; featuring hunting memorabilia, was filmed in 10am –7pm family photos and a collection Melkote and Badami. Ghajini (2008) FILMI TAKE MG Road Rules of portraits. showed the spiffy IT corridors of the city. The thrilling chase in Lockup Palace Rd; Indian/foreigner `230/460, was goofing around the IIM Death (1994) was filmed at mobile/camera/video `285/685/1485; Bengaluru campus in (2009). MG Road. The bank heist in 10.30am–5.30pm Priyanka Chopra’s killer moves in 7 Khoon Nishkarsha (1993) was shot at FILMI TAKE A ROYAL SHOT Maaf (2011) were set across Kodagu Centre. Chinnaswamy Hrudaya Sangama (1972), starring and Mysuru. Rowdy Rathore (2012) was Cricket Stadium nearby popped Kannada thespian Rajkumar, filmed across Hampi.Gori Tere Pyaar up in a song in Bannada Gejje showed the palace interiors. Mein (2013) saw Kareena Kapoor at the (1990). Rakesh Maiya’s short film Vishnuvardhan’s horror hit, Town Hall and Freedom Park. (2019) showed (2004) and Shanti Bengaluru Metro, a part of MG (1991) featured the palace’s Bollywood star began her Road’s identity. manicured outdoors. career in Kannada films 14 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 15

FILMI TAKE ROAD THRILLS the gate and bastions are the only The dangerous traffic junction, structures remaining. There’s a Double Road flyover, featured in small dungeon here, and a Ganesh ’s U Turn (2016). temple. Big hit Lucia (2013), a zany FILMI TAKE CITYSCAPE thriller set in Bengaluru, was Nodana Bengaluru song filmed on filmed across , JC Road, the iconic ‘90s double decker bus JPNagar, Hanumantha Nagar and of Bengaluru in Yeshwanth (2005) Chamarajpet. takes the viewers on a mini tour of the city. Former CM of Karnataka, Ramkrishna acted in Marana This ruined 1761 fort is a peaceful Mrudanga (1992) set in the city. escape from the chaotic city Rajkumar-Bharathi’s Mayor surrounds, with its manicured Muthanna (1969) featured the lawn and stone pink walls. The fort famous City Corporation building. remained in use until its destruction Bengaluru Race Course, a city by the British in 1791, and today landmark, pops up in Shiva (2012).

Bengaluru’s night turns edgy in Lucia neighbourhoods like Malleshwaram Snapshot: Ramanagara and around show up in films likeNodi St Mark’s Cathedral Swamy Navirodu Heege (1983) Ramanagara Hill Some 50km from Bengaluru, the rocky hills of This is an atmospheric cathedral and Guruprasad’s hit Eddelu Ramanagara served as the lair of the dangerous dacoit, in the built in 1812 with a distinct domed Manjunatha (2009). Kempirve iconic film (1975). ’s (2013) had a cheeky spoof roof and is based on St Paul’s (2017) showcased the antique set in the same spot. Eagelton Golf Cathedral, London. Check out the homes of Basavangudi and Resort in Bidadi and the Innovative entrance’s ornate carvings. Chamrajpet. The romantic boat ride Film City in the vicinity, have also Faceperest, volore, ut est et porehenimus. www.saintmarks.in; MG Rd in Kirik Party (2016) and portions drawn filmmakers. of Neer Dose (2016) were set in Hills Note its misty charms Lalbagh Botanical Gardens Sankey Tank. in Raja Huli (2013) and Srinivasa Spread over 96 hectares of Kalyana (2017). landscaped terrain, the expansive Krishnarajendra Market The sooty Lalbagh Botanical Gardens were laid For a taste of traditional, urban grittiness of this location has been out in 1760 by the famous ruler Hyder India, dive into the bustling mined for hits like Power (2014), Ali and have amazing centuries-old Krishnarajendra Market. Weave Airavata (2015), Mufti (2017) and trees and a diverse species of plants. your way around this market past KGF (2018). You can take a guided tour with fresh produce, piles of vibrant Tumkuru and Bangalore Walks (p27). dyes, spices and copperware. The the Channarayana Hill have www.horticulture.kar.nic.in/lalbagh.htm; colourful flower market in the centre showed up in Bangarada Jinke Lalbagh Rd; `10; 6am–7pm is the highlight. (1980) and Gandu Berunda (1984). FILMI TAKE BANGALORE BLUES City Market; Silver Jubilee Park Rd; Bengaluru’s charming 6am–10pm Topiwala has a short spoof on Gabbar Singh 16 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 17

FILMI TAKE: TEMPLE TALKIES Malleshwaram’s temples like Kaadu Snapshot: Mysuru in the movies Malleshwara, Nandi Theertha and Lakshminarasimha are considered Mysuru’s wide roads, the clock tower, St Philomena’s Church, KR Circle, lucky for mahurats or the auspicious the old Town Hall, traditional vegetable markets, DD Urs Road, KR Circle, start of filming. Many launch pujas Mysuru Golf Course, the railway station, the university, Chamundi Hills take place at the Dodda Ganapathy and all make up a colourful landscape for films. The Temple in , the hit song Kurak Kukkrali Kere from Nenapirali (2005), the films Aramane Anjeneya Temple in Mahalakshmi (2008), Milana (2007), Circus (2009), Premism (2010), (1997), Layout, Rajajrajeshwari Temple in Veera Parampare (2010), Uyalle (1964), Rajaratha (2018), KGF (2018), Rajeshwari Nagar and Someshwara Sharavani Subramanya (2013) all showed Myruru’s unending appeal. Temple in .

HAL Aerospace Museum & in; Rd; Indian/foreigner/ here. In 1989, a fire broke out during Heritage Centre child under 10 incl audio guide `40/200/ the shooting of Sanjay Khan’s For a peek into India’s aeronautical free; 10am–5.30pm telefilm,The Sword of , history, visit this wonderful museum FILMI TAKE ROYAL TRAPPINGS in Premier Studios in Mysuru. past the old airport, where you can Period drama Mayura (1975) see some of the aircrafts designed headlined by Rajkumar was the only by HAL. Interesting exhibits include a film that was shot inside the opulent Built in 1861, this stunning palace KGF ‘s interiors were filmed in MIG-21, homegrown models such as Mysuru Palace, including a fleeting just west of the Mysuru Palace now Bengaluru’s studios the Marut and Kiran, and a vintage shot of the magnificent Durbar Hall. houses the Jayachamarajendra Art Canberra bomber. The palace exteriors have featured in Gallery. It has a huge collection of Tipu Sultan’s Palace www.hal-india.com; Airport-Varthur Rd; the film,Chandra (2013). Indian paintings, including works The elegant Indo-Islamic summer `50, camera/video `50/75; 9am–5pm by noted artist , residence of the ruler Tipu Sultan Tue–Sun Devaraja Market is notable for its teak pillars and Dating from Tipu Sultan’s reign, The Sword of Tipu Sultan was filmed at the iconic Premier Studio ornamental frescoes. Mysuru this lively bazaar has local traders Albert Victor Rd; Indian/foreigner `15/200, selling items such as flower video `25; 8.30am–5.30pm Mysuru Palace garlands, spices and conical Among the grandest of India’s royal piles of kumkum, all of which Bull Temple buildings, this is the seat of the makes for some great photo ops Built by Kempegowda in the Wodeyar maharajas. The lavish Indo- and shopping. 16th-century Dravidian style, the Saracenic interior is a kaleidoscope Sayyaji Rao Rd; 6am–8.30pm Bull Temple contains a huge stone of stained glass, mirrors and FILMI TAKE: PREMIER STUDIO monolith of Nandi (Shiva’s bull). glittering colours. Every Sunday The Premier Studio (demolished This is one of Bengaluru’s most and national holiday, from 7pm to in 2018) was founded in the 1950s atmospheric temples and is 7.30pm, the palace is illuminated by M N Basavarajaiah. Directors located about 1km south of Tipu by nearly 100,000 light bulbs that like Ranga, veteran actors like Sultan’s Palace. accentuate its majestic profile Vishnuvardhan, Saroja Devi, Sivaji Basavanagudi; Bull Temple Rd, against the night. Ganesan, , Rajnikanth 7am–8.30pm Maharaja’s Palace; www.mysorepalace.gov. MGR and Jayalalitha have all worked 18 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 19

traditional Japanese art and some stone tablets and sculptures, rare musical instruments. including rural costumes and a Detour: Jaganmohan Palace Rd; adult/child wooden puppet of the 10-headed `120/30; 8.30am–5pm demon king . The building was originally built as a mansion Rail Museum for Princess Jayalakshmi Ammani, This open-air museum’s main exhibit the eldest daughter of Maharaja is the Mysuru maharani’s saloon, a Chamaraja Wodeyar. wood-panelled beauty dating from Mysore University Campus; 10am–1pm & 1899, which provides an insight into 3–5pm Tue–Sun the stylish way in which the royals once rode the railways. There are Chamundi Hill also steam engines, locomotives, This 1062m hill is crowned by the carriages and a toy train. Sri Chamundeswari Temple, offering KRS Rd; adult/child `15/10, camera/video spectacular views of the city below. `20/30; 9.30am–6pm Queues are long on weekends, so visit during the week. One-third of Jayalaksmi Vilas Mansion the way down is a 5m-high statue of Museum Complex Nandi that was carved out of solid On the university campus west of rock in 1659. town, this museum specialises in www.chamundeshwaritemple.kar.nic.in; folklore, and you can see artefacts, 7am–2pm, 3.30–6pm & 7.30–9pm Cut-out drama on the Paddehuli set in Chitradurga

Located 200km from Bengaluru, Chitradurga has hills, rocky boulders, Snapshot: Rajnikanth caves and historic forts. It has some 18 temples,including the notable Hidimbeshwara temple. Chamayya meshtru, Ramachari, Alamelu, Superstar Rajnikanth held his Margret, Jaeela – Kannada movie buffs can’t forget these characters first job as a bus conductor and ,“Yak bul bul matadakilwa?”, from Naagarahaavu (1972) that made in the Bangalore Transport Chitradurga fort a popular tourist hotspot or the period drama Kallarali Corporation. He dabbled in Hoovagi (2006) that featured the Chandravalli caves. Kannada theatre and movies early on, such as Puttana Kanagal’s new wave Katha FILMI TAKE FORESTs & Zoos Sangama (1975), parts of This is a well-managed zoo set in Gandhada Gudi (1973) on which were filmed in Mysuru’s pretty gardens. Highlights include forest conservation, starring iconic Premier Studios. The white , gorillas, giraffes and Vishnuvardhan and Rajkumar, was town remains a sweet spot rhinos. It’s situated around 2km set in Kakanakote in Mysuru, as and showed up in his films likeThalapathi (1991), (1995), Baba south-east of Mysore Palace. was Kakanakote (1976), a film on (2002), Guru Sishyan (1988), (1999) and (2014). http://mysorezoo.info; ; Kaka Nayaka, the legendary leader (2005) was filmed in the Helipad,Maaveeran (1986) adult/child Mon–Fri `50/20, Sat & Sun of the forest-dwelling Jenu in , fight sequences inRajadhi Raja (1989) on `60/30, camera `20; 8.30am–5.30pm tribe. Mrugaalaya (1986) featured Road and Polladhavan (1980) near Chamundi Hills. Wed–Mon the Mysore Zoo. 20 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 21

Detour: Mandya and around

Srirangapatna (16km from Mysuru) On an island straddling the River , this town was once the seat of and Tipu Sultan’s power and the capital of Mysuru state; see its glorious history come alive at the sound and light show (7–8pm) held every day at the fort. Another great option is a heritage walk, such as the 12-hour Tipu tour conducted by Wander Trails (www,wandertrails.com). One of the most impressive monuments is , Tipu’s intricately decorated summer palace. The Persian-style gumbaz (the resting place of Tipu and his father) and the Indo-Islamic Jamia Masjid are other highlights. The town is also famous for the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, a legacy of the Ganga rulers. The Ranganathaswamy Temple or ‘Mandya Ranga’ is one of the holiest shrines near the Kaveri River. The best place to stay (or stop for snacks) is the aptly named Mayura River View, a river-front KSTDC property. FILMI TAKE RURAL romances Over 200 movies have been filmed in Mahadevpura village. A Chicago University’s study on ‘an ideal Indian village’ was based on Janumada Jodi (1996). Locals of Nodekoppalu acted in Thithi (2016), and now tourists seek selfies with village centenarian ‘Century’ Gowda. Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary The ‘Pakshi Kashi’ of Karnataka is the largest bird sanctuary in the state with over 170 avian species. Sagar Dam & The lake and dam near the confluence of the River Kaveri are popular spots for picnickers. FILMI TAKE FALLING IN LOVE The climax in Bhootayyana Maga Ayyu (1974) was in . Thespian Rajkumar loved this spot for the piping hot bajji and tea sold by villagers nearby. Vishnuvardhan’s flood of love for heroine Suhashini is compared to the Krishna Sagar Dam in Bandhana (1984). An early hit was the song at Brindavan Gardens from Krishna Leela (1946) with many more hit numbers to follow. An hour’s drive (51km) from Srirangapatna brings you to the 12th- century Cheluvanarayana Temple and the Yoganarasimha Temple. FILMI TAKE TEMPLE TOWNS Srirangapatna, Sangama, and Gosai Ghat feature in Hosabelaku (1982) and Katari Veera Surasundarangi (2012). Melukote features in Chalisuva Modagalu (1982), Gaalipata (2008), Bullet Basaya (2015), Anjani Putra (2017), Seetharama Kalyana (2019) and other movies.

Ayogya shows Mandya’s folksy charms 22 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 23

Bengaluru astonishing Leela isn’t actually The Oberoi HOTEL ``` 4 a palace (it was built in 2003), %080 2558 5858; www.oberoihotels.com; Accommodation but it’s fit for royalty. Gleaming 37-39, MG Road, Yellappa Garden, Yellappa marble, luxuriant carpets, regal Chetty Layout, Sivanchetti Gardens; d ITC Gardenia HOTEL ``` balconies and period features are starting from `13250, incl breakfast, taxes %080 2211 9898; www.itchotels.in; 1, done superbly, as are its beautiful additional A classic address with Residency Rd, Ashok Nagar; d starting from gardens, classy restaurants, bars exemplary rooms fronted by private `24500, incl breakfast, taxes additional and boutique galleries. It’s within the balconies overlooking greens, al Located in the commercial heart Leela Galleria complex, 5km east of fresco dining options and a patio of Bengaluru, ITC Gardenia offers MG Road next to a golf course. bar, the Oberoi has been a favourite an uber luxury stay and services option for travellers for decades. for travellers, including premium Taj West End HERITAGE HOTEL ``` wellness, dining and conferences %080 66605660; www.tajhotels.com; Casa Piccola HERITAGE HOTEL ``` options. Along with soothing Racecourse Rd; s/d incl breakfast from Cottage interiors and carefully curated decor, `12,600/13,700 Spread over 8 hectares %080 22990337; www.casacottage. ITC is also focussed on responsible of stunning tropical gardens, the West com; 2 Clapham Rd; r incl breakfast from luxury practices. End flashbacks to 1887, when it was `4400 Casa Piccola’s atmospheric first established as a base for British rooms offer a tranquil sanctuary. Leela Palace HOTEL ``` officers, and it still oozes colonial Its personalised rooms are cosy % 080 25211234; www.theleela.com; 23 class. Dining options include Blue and the garden boasts papaya and Posh comforts at the Oberoi in Bengaluru HAL Airport Rd; s/d from `18,800/19,300 Ginger for Vietnamese cuisine and avocado trees. Modelled on Mysuru Palace, the Masala Klub for superb Indian food. cusp of the historical heart and JüSTa MG Road BOUTIQUE HOTEL ``` the commercial centre of the city. The ITC Gardenia is in the heart of Bengaluru %080 41135555; www.justahotels. This can be best be seen from the com/mg-road-­bangalore; 21/14 Craig rooftop bar of the hotel which towers Park Layout, MG Rd; r/ste incl breakfast the area around. In truly 5-star `3520/4840 This stylish and intimate fashion, Shangri-La has left no stone arty hotel has slick and spacious unturned towards facilities like a rooms with Japanese-­inspired wellness spa, swimming pool and motifs throughout. It’s well located dining options. with a metro station and shopping malls close by. Raddison Blu HOTEL ``` %0821 7101234; www.radissonhotels. Shangri-La HOTEL ``` com; 1, MG Road, Indiranagar Extension, %080 4512 6100; www.shangri-la.com; Fort Mohalla; d starting from `8500, incl No.56, 6B, Palace Rd, Abshot Layout, of breakfast, excl taxes; also incl certain ; d starting from `7875 facilities. In tune with the heritage onwards, incl breakfast, taxes additional vibe of the city, Radisson Blu has Each of Shangri-La’s 397 rooms are classic domes and arches that house fitted with the classiest amenities contemporary luxuries for guests. and comforts so guests can truly Modern rooms, in-house dining enjoy a stay here. It lies at the options, a swimming pool and a spa 24 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 25

take you into the folds of luxury, while Ticking the right contemporary Mass Residency GUESTHOUSE ` keeping you well within close quarters boxes, including hip bathrooms and %9945091735; massresidency@yahoo. of the bustling markets, heritage modish design touches, this sleek com; 18, 2nd Main Rd, 11th Cross, JP Nagar; hoods and ample sightseeing spots. hotel won’t fail to impress. Garden- r incl breakfast with fan/AC `1600/2000 view rooms have great balconies, A welcoming guesthouse run by two La Marvella HOTEL ``` and there’s a rooftop restaurant and brothers who are world travellers %0804333 5333; www.lamarvella.com; a small gym. themselves, this property has 14th Cross, South End Circle, 2nd Block, comfortable enough rooms. It wins Jayanagar; d starting from `7184, incl Villa Camelot HOTEL `` rave reviews for its hospitality and breakfast, taxes additional This luxury %9886053043; www.villa-camelot. free neighbourhood walking tours. boutique hotel from the Sarovar com; Villa Camelot, 94/95, 4th Cross, Portico camp offers 5-star services ECC Road, Whitefield; d starting from 5 in the Jayanagar neighbourhood of `2400, incl breakfast, taxes additional Eating the city. Accessible to the city center Immaculate hospitality and privacy and yet tucked away in a relatively are the hallmarks of Villa Camelot, Olive Bar and MEDITERRANEAN ``` quiet area of city, this is is a preferred one of the most popular luxury Kitchen option for many who want premium homestays for guests who like %080 41128400; www. comfort in their rooms and amenities a blend of homeliness with their olivebarandkitchen.com; 16 Wood St, like a spa, conference room and travel. Villa Camelot is located Ashoknagar `525–795; noon–3.30pm dining options close at hand in Whitefield, ideal for business & 7–11pm Olive does an eclectic travellers who have offices close seasonal menu. Expect Moroccan Lemongrass ginger mojito at Fatty Bao Temple Tree Hotel by and those who ’t want to lamb tagines, prawns pil pil (with HOTEL `` stay in the bustle of the main city. garlic and hot peppers) and plenty kebabs or something from the %080 46622000; www.templetreehotel. A number of hip dining options can of veg choices. organic menu. com; 9th Cross Rd, Mavalli; `3765–4499 be accessed from here. Karavalli SEAFOOD ``` Sunny’s ITALIAN ``` A thali is a treat at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms %080 66604545; Gateway Hotel, 66 %080 41329366; www.sunnysbangalore. Residency Rd; mains `500–1575;12.30– in; 50 Lavelle Rd; mains `350–730; 12.30– 3pm & 6.30–11.30pm For the finest 11.30pm A well-established fixture on Indian seafood, look no further. Bengaluru’s restaurant scene, classy Choose from fiery Mangalorean fish Sunny’s has a lovely terrace for al dishes, spicy -style prawns, fresco dining. On the menu, you’ll crab milagu in a pepper masala and find authentic thin-crust pizzas, superb lobster balchao (cooked in a homemade pastas and some of the spicy sauce; `1495). best desserts in the city.

Fava MEDITERRANEAN ``` Fatty Bao ASIAN ``` www.fava.in; UB City, 24 Vittal Mallya Rd; %080 44114499; www.facebook. mains `350–850; 11am–11pm Dine al com/thefattybao; 610 12th Main Rd, fresco on Fava’s canopy-covered Indiranagar; mains `380–650; noon–3pm deck, feasting on large plates of & 7–10.30pm This hip rooftop dishes like duck leg confit, fish restaurant serves up Asian hawker 26 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 27

Indian Kitchen MODERN INDIAN ``` A legendary name in south Indian surrounds. There are numerous %080 25598995; 86 Oak Shot Pl, MG food, this super-popular eatery other branches around the city. Rd; `250–825; noon–3pm & 7pm–1am A has had Bengaluru eating out of its destination restaurant that’s a big hit hands since 1924. Get your fix of idlis Gramin INDIAN ` with the city’s bright young things. and dosas and other popular south %080 41104104; 20, 7th Block, Raheja The menu highlights include the Indian tiffin items, finished up by Arcade, ; mains `136–180; chingri malai curry (Bengali-style frothy filter coffee. 12.30–11pmThere is a wide choice of curry with prawns and coconut) and flavourful rural north Indian fare at chicken gassi (in a spicy tamarind Infinitea CAFE `` this cosy, eclectic all-veg place. Try sauce). It doubles as a bar, and www.infinitea.in; 2 Shah Sultan Complex, the excellent range of dals and curries has a good selection of beers and Cunningham Rd; pot of tea from `100; with oven-fresh rotis, accompanied cocktails. 11am–11pm This smart yet homely by sweet rose-flavoured lassi. place has an impressive menu Koshy’s Bar & including traditional teas from Khan Saheb INDIAN ` INDIAN `` Restaurant the best estates and a few fancy www.khansaheb.co; 9A Block, Brigade 39 St Mark’s Rd; mains `160–350; 9am– selections. Their food (soups, salads, Rd; rolls from `60; noon–11.30pm 11pm; Serving the city’s intelligentsia smoked chicken wings) are popular. Famous for its terrific rolls, filled for decades, this buzzy, decidedly with anything from charcoal-grilled old-school resto-pub is where you can Empire NORTH INDIAN `` meats and tandoori prawns to put away tasty north Indian dishes www.facebook.com/hotelempire; 36 paneer and sweetcorn tikka, Khan and mugs of beer. Between lunch and Church St; mains `120–240; 11am–11pm Saheb is a popular haunt for a dinner, it’s ‘short eats’ only (colonial- The famous Empire is all about quick bite of your favourite roll. era snacks like chicken liver on toast). authentic, inexpensive tandoori and meat dishes in unpretentious Social is a hipster hangout Infinitea is a cool cafe for tea lovers Church Street GASTROPUB `` food to a crowd of fashionable Social young foodies in a vibrant setting. www.socialoffline.in; 46/1 Church St; There’s ramen, Thai curries and mains `170–350; 9am–11pm Mon–Thu, Malaysian street food, as well as to 1am Fri & Sat Bringing hipsterism Asian-inspired cocktails such as to Bengaluru, this industrial lemongrass mojitos. warehouse-style space serves cocktails in beakers. The menu Ebony MULTI CUISINE ``` features breakfasts, meze platters, %080 41783333; www.ebonywithaview. southern fried chicken burgers and com; 13th Fl, Barton Centre, 84 MG Rd; ‘gunpowder’ calamari. mains `300–560; 12.30–3pm & 7–11pm Besides the delectable menu of Mavalli Tiffin SOUTH INDIAN ` Indian, Thai and European dishes, Rooms take in the romantic views from MTR; %080 22220022; www. the rooftop and a cool lounge zone mavallitiffinrooms.com; 14 Lalbagh Rd; buzzing with Bengaluru’s cocktail- snacks from `50, meals from `130; sipping classes on weekends. 6.30–11am & 12.30–9.30pm, closed Mon 28 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 29

6 Nightlife iced coffee to go with homemade nature-based activities and the spa cakes, sandwiches and mains. are an added plus. 13th Floor BAR 13th Fl, Barton Centre, 84 MG Rd; 5–11pm Atta Galatta CAFE Lalitha Mahal LUXURY ``` Sun–Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat Forget your %080 41600677; www.attagalatta.com; Palace Hotel superstitions and head up to 13th 134, KHB Colony, 5th Block, Koramangala; %821 2526100, 2470222;www. Floor’s terrace, with all of Bengaluru 11am–8.30pm This fine cafe and lalithamahalpalace.in; Lalitha Mahal glittering at your feet. There’s bakery offers good sandwiches on Nagar; `6000–50,000 This elegant an excellent selection of martini, nutritious bread, and snacks, and building, overlooking the Chamundi sangria and mojito combinations. also doubles as a bookshop and Hills, was built in 1927 and is art venue, hosting readings and now a heritage hotel of the state Dyu Art Cafe CAFE performances. government.The palace wing, with www.dyuartcafe.yolasite.com; 23 its original furnishings and fittings, MIG, KHB Colony, Koramangala; Shiro BAR gives a sense of splendour. 10am–10.30pm An atmospheric cafe- www.shiro.co.in; UB City, 24 Vittal Mallya FILMI TAKE LALITHA MAHAL gallery in a leafy neighbourhood Rd; 12.30–11.30pm Sun–Thu, to 1am Fri The striking white Lalitha Mahal with a peaceful courtyard. It does & Sat A sophisticated lounge to get Palace doubled as a locale in films The is an irresistible sweet treat good French press, espresso and sloshed in style, Shiro has elegant like Bandhana (1984), interiors. It has good Japanese food (2015), Sahukara (2004), and Royal Orchid at the iconic Lalitha Mahal HERITAGE HOTEL ``` and its ‘Special Shiro’ cocktails are thrillers like Prathyartha (1999). Metropole Palace Hotel in Prathyartha the bomb. Odahuttidavaru (1994), starring %0821 4255566; www.royalorchidhotels. Rajkumar and had a com; 5 Jhansi Bai Rd; s/d incl Mysuru & Mandya massive race filmed with 40 bullock breakfast from `6880/7250 Originally 4 Accommodation carts here. built by the Wodeyars to serve as the

The Windflower Top Tip: River view Resorts & Spa LUXURY ``` %9901446666; www.thewindflower. Mayura River com; Survey No. 201/P1, Kedakal View HOTEL `` Village, Hobli, %0823 6252114; Taluk, ; d starting `14580, www.kstdc.co/hotels; incl meals, excl taxes. Built around d with fan/AC from a woodland area and sprawling `2300/3300 The coffee plantations, the resort is comfy rooms are ideal for being close to nature but on a quiet patch still having contemporary luxury of riverbank. Day facilities. Staying options include trippers can pop studios, suites and plantation in for lunch (mains bungalows to match every budget `150 to `180) with and preference for travellers. multicuisine options. In-house dining, swimming pool, 30 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 31

Hotel Mayura Silent 5 FILMI TAKE FOODIE DELIGHTS HOTEL `` Eating Shores Resort & Spa Bollywood veteran ’s %0821 2402930; www. Trail INDIAN ``` visits to Mysuru were never silentshoresresort.com; BEML Road, Plot %0821 4255566; Royal Orchid Metropole, complete without a visit to Guru No. 85-87, Hootagalli; d starting from 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; mains `200–650; Sweets to buy his favourite `5000, incl breakfast, taxes additional 7.30–10am, 12.30–3.30pm & 7.30–11pm dessert, Mysore Pak. The song Garden and lake view rooms This sophisticated hotel restaurant Tinbedakammi in Lucia (2013) at Silent Shores lie in the lush cooks up delectable describes the cuisine of Mandya. acres of greenery in Mysuru. in a courtyard that twinkles with Oggarane (2014) starring Prakash The centrally located resort is a fairylights at night. The north Indian Rai was a movie on cooking and veritable oasis in the sightseeing dishes are particularly good. It also food forming strong connections spots of the city, a perfect place has a fine lunch buffet. between people. to unwind after a long day of traipsing about. Parklane Hotel MULTI CUISINE`` Cafe Aramane SOUTH INDIAN ` Parklane Hotel, 2720 Harsha Rd; mains Sayyaji Rao Rd; mains `90–110; 8am– Hoysala HOTEL `` `100–160 Mysuru’s most social 10pm In a heritage building, this %0821 2426160; www. restaurant has outdoor tables lit typically busy south Indian eatery karnatakaholidays.net; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi up moodily by lanterns, and live dishes out steaming breakfast Bai Rd; r incl breakfast with fan/AC traditional music. The menu includes platters for Mysuru’s office-goers, A suite at the Windflower Resorts & Spa from `1550/2900 Located near the delicious regional dishes from thalis for lunch (from `80) and train station, the potential of this across India as well as Chinese and welcomes them back in residence of the maharaja’s British beautiful historic building remains continental options and cold beers. the evenings with aromatic guests, this is one of Mysuru’s unrealised. This government- filter coffee and a convoy of leading heritage hotels. It has 30 owned hotel’s rooms have plenty Poolside at Silent Shores Resort & Spa delicious snacks. rooms oozing historical character, of character, and the rates are with all mod cons. reasonable.

Top Tip: Royal Walks

Familiarise yourself with Mysuru’s epic history and heritage. It has a range of weekend walks themes like royal history and food walks for immersive experiences. www. royalmysorewalks.com/ [email protected] 32 Best Trips Bengaluru, Mysuru & Around 33

Expert Recommendation Serving a Karnataka platter Growing up, she lived in many parts of India, developing multicultural tastes, but award-winning Kannada actor Shraddha is a foodie, who’s partial to the heritage cuisine of Karnataka. Here’s her sampler of the state’s regional specialities.

North Karnataka Indulge seafood delights that include in a meal of bhakri (rotti, made Mangalorean and north Canarese of rice), ennegayi (deep-fried dishes with flavourings of cashews veggies like brinjal), condiments and coconut milk. Crab masala, like pudi (dal/peanut powders to anjal (fish) fry, patrode (stuffed go with rice), chutneys (kempu, and steamed colacasia leaves), coconut, peanuts), saaru (gravy neer dose and desserts like kotte dishes) and mosuru (buttermilk). kadubu made of jaggery and Desserts sweetened with jaggery are jackfruit, chicken saaru, goli bajje atthrassu, puren holige. or stuffed buns. Dharwad, , Gulbarga, , , , Malnad Belgaum, , Yadgir, Bagalkot, Raichur, Davanagere, Gadag, Kodagu The cuisine from the cool, Haveri, Koppal, and Bellary hilly regions of Coorg provide a dash of spice and meat, providing Mysuru & heat and distinct flavours. The This region offers whole grains and signature dish is pandi curry (pork millets like ragi, jowar and bajra and curry), koli saaru (chicken curry), mixed-rice or anna are a huge hit bimbale curry (bamboo shoot here. Ragi mudde (ragi dumplings), curry) and nool (rice string kosambari (light summer salad), huli hoppers). (sambar) are delish. Coorg and around Bengaluru, Mysuru, Tumkuru, Mandya, Hasan, Kolar and Udupi This cuisine has put Chamrajanagara Karnataka on the food map of India and is said to be born from the Uttara Kannada & Dakshina satvik traditions of the region. Do Kannada Karnataka’s coastal eat a proper meal at a simple Udupi regions are a burst of seasonal restaurant off a banana leaf. Nool puttu or ottu shavige is a popular breakfast item in Karnataka 34 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru & Hassan 35

Coorg, Chikkamagaluru & Hassan

Why Go? The coffee-growing regions of Karnataka are great for travel, and their scenic beauty has made them a staple in Kannada films. Chikkamagaluru is a popular spot seen in hit films like Bandhana (1984) and Sangliyana (1988). The landscape also lent itself to horror and thrillers like Shhhh! (1993) and Aa Karala Ratri (2018). Filmmakers dig the misty beauty of Sakleshpur and the quaint spots across Hassan. Coorg was the backdrop for Edakallu Guddada Mele (1973), Sharapanjara (1971), and Muthina Hara (1990). Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & Around visiting some key monuments. Coorg Buses leave from the KSRTC bus stand for Bengaluru (5–7hr). Day 4–5 Leave for Sakleshpur (2.5hr) and settle in a plantation Drive down the Chikkamagaluruu stay or hotel; explore Manjarabad NH48 (5hr) from Bengaluru and Fort and visit curio shops and KSRTC buses are plenty (7hr). artisanal coffee spots. Sakleshpur This is 4.5hr drive on Day 6–7 Arrive at Chikkamagaluru the Bangalore– (NH75) and check-in at an estate homestay . and drive around. Suggested Itinerary Best Time to Visit Explore Coorg to include Day 1–3 October – March hikes, coffee plantation life and

Travellers and moviemakers are taken in by Coorg’s natural beauty 36 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru & Hassan 37

Omkareshwar Temple Royal Tombs This temple was built by King Also called Gadduge, these early Lingarajendra in 1820. It is dedicated 19th-century mausoleums of the to Lord Shiva and is located in the Kodava rulers are located just heart of Madikeri. short of the Abbi Falls. Built in the 6.30am–12pm, 5pm–8pm; photography Indo-Saracenic style, the domes and not allowed minarets tower over Madikeri. 9am–5pm Abbi Falls A quick drive beyond Madikeri Igguthappa Temple through cardamom and coffee This holiest shrine dedicated to the plantations will bring you to a point presiding deity of the Kodavas is in little short of the falls. A brief walk Kakkabe, a village about 40km from down a paved path from here takes Madikeri said to be southern Asia’s you to a hanging bridge opposite the largest producer of forest honey. wide cascade of . %0827 2238400; Kakkabe; 5.30am– 8km from Madikeri 12.30pm, 6.30pm–7pm filmi Take Fruity Passion filmi Take Trekking Drama Sharapanjara (1971) featured The 2013 first found footage horror Madikeri and the famous Coorgi film6-5=2 was filmed in Coorg’s citrus fruit. The song, Sandesha, Napoklu and Tadiyandamol. The Chikkamagaluru’s misty charms in the movie, 1 megha sandesha had oranges plot had six young people meeting Sights Srinivasa Kalyana strewn around the hill slopes. a spooky end on a trek gone wrong. coorg Madikeri Fort & Palace Raja’s Seat The original mud fort here was Snapshot: River of romance A well-maintained garden used replaced by the present one built by the Kodava rulers, west of by Tipu Sultan. The stone ramparts Located 50km from Madikeri, it offers stunning enclose the palace of the Kodagu Madikeri, on the views of the Coorg Valley below. rulers, and within the complex Hill near See the sun descend behind is a former church doubling as a , rolling hills in the evenings; after museum and a temple. is the sunset, the musical fountains are Museum 10am–5pm; photography origin of the sacred switched on. not allowed river Kaveri. The Fountain show 7pm Mon–Fri, 6.45pm & filmi Take FLOATING clouds song Madikeri Sipayi 7.30pm Sat, Sun festivals Gaalipata (2008) highlighted the in the Suhasini– filmi Take Kodagu MOODS landscape around Madikeri like the Vishnuvardhan starrer The wedding song Yavuravva breathtaking Mandalpati. The film Mutthina Haara evaa yavuravva from Edakallu increased the footfall of tourists (1990) showcases Guddada Mele (1973) shows who landed at Mandalpati, called Talakaveri and villages, terrains and customs of Mugilupete, after the film for a walk- Kodagu pride. the free spirited Kodavas. in-the-clouds experience. 38 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 39

The film’s success has turned Mallikarjuna temple. Next on the ‘loop’ Tadiyandamol into a popular is the mist-covered trekking trail. (Dattagiri hill range). Here, a small temple perched at 6217ft offers Elephant Camp breathtaking views of the valley This facility, an initiative of the below. Finally, there is Mullayangiri, Karnataka Forest Department Karnataka’s highest peak (6332 feet), near the Jungle Lodges and which affords another great view. Resorts, by the Kaveri River makes filmi Take Belli Moda for an interesting halt. A short Director Puttana Kanagal’s debut boat ride takes you across to hit Belli Moda (1966) made the camp, where you can watch Chikkamagaluru a popular fixture the pachyderms being bathed, in Kannada films. Thippanahalli groomed and fed. Extremely estate, where it was set, came to be touristy, it will earn you brownie known as Belli Moda estate. Actress points with the kids. Kalpana named her Bengaluru 14km from Kushalnagar, 40km from residence Belli Moda too. Madikeri; 8.30am–12pm; `300 onwards (depending on choice of activities) Kemmanagundi & The hill station of Kemmanagundi Chikkamagaluru provides an access point to the picturesque Hebbe Falls. Getting to Manushya (1972), Bhootayana An outdoor shooting in progress The Big Mountain Loop Hebbe Falls involves an adventurous Maga Ayyu (1974), Sangliana Go towards Kaimara and start in off-road journey from where you’ll (1988), Bandhana (1984), Coffee Yatra the foothills to head straight to get to see a 551ft drop from below Anjada Gandu (1988), Chaitrada A Coffee Board of India initiative, the Sheethalagiri, a 1000-year old the gushing water. Premanjali (1992), Bayalu Daari Coffee Yatra has excellent displays `10; parking `50; 8am–4pm (1976), GopiKrishna (1992), on the origin of coffee and its ‘Show man’ V Ravichandran had triple hits filmi Take Lucky Locale Sipayi (1996) and Mangalyam evolution in India. with Kushboo in Chikkamagaluru Superstars Ravichandran and Thantunanena (1998) made Coffee Centre, Behind ZP Office, Kadur Rd; Kushboo’s Ranadheera (1988), Chikkamagaluru and `20; 10am–1pm & 2pm–5.30pm, closed on Anjada Gandu (1988) and lucky locations for filmmakers. Sat, Sun & general holidays Yugapurusha (1989) were all set in Chikkamagaluru, which proved to be a third factor in their filmi hatrick. Detour: Shivamogga () & Jog Falls

Kalhatti Falls A three-hour drive from Chikkamagaluru, Shimoga is ‘picture’ perfect. You From Kemmanagundi, drive 10km to can spot , Agumbe, Theerthahalli, and in Gaalipata Kalhatti for the Veerabhadra (Shiva) (2008) Aakasmika (1993), Rasarishi , Mysore Mallige (1991) and Temple. are at their Amrutha Ghalige (1985). The romantic song, Agumbeya sanjeya prettiest just after the monsoons. captures Agumbe’s famed sunrise. A two-hour drive from Shimoga takes filmi Take movie magic you to the popular Jog Falls. Featured in Jeevana Chaitra (1992) hit song Box-office hits likeBangaarada Manavanagi huttida, the falls are a tourist magnet. 40 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 41

craggy hills lent shocks and screams in horror hits like Sriramachandra (1992) and Shhh! (1993). Thrillers Kaafi Thota (2017), Aa Karaala Ratri (2018) and Last Bus (2016) were set here too.

Sakleshpur Sakleshpur offers plantation walks, coffee estate stays and a base camp for the famous temple towns Belur and (p37).

Manjarabad Fort Trek up to the weathered fort built by Tipu Sultan as a strategic defence. This steep hill offers a wonderful panoramic view of the entire region and is worth the trek up the steep hill. filmi Take Rom com rules Paramathma’s (2011) lead pair and Deepa Spooky tale Aa Karaala Ratri shooting was set in Chikkamagaluru Sanidhi raised the heat in the song Paravashanadenu set in Sakleshpur. filmi Take chopper ride Vaikuntapura and the rathotsava The hit number has turned the The film Ghatashradha was set in Shivamogga The song Elliruve Manava Kaaduva scene in Kigga. Musicals Upasane star-shaped into a in Bayalu Daari (1976) was the first (1974), Malaya Marutha (1986) magnet for young travellers. to Kukke Subrahmanya Temple on time a helicopter was used for filming and the filmAdi the Mangalore–Bengaluru sector. over the Chikkamagaluru hills. (1983) were set in Reserve Forest Tunnels, waterfalls and deep gorges Sringeri too. The rainforest cover that spills dot this place. Sringeri into Sakleshpur is a joy for nature filmi Take Kiddie fun Devotees throng the sacred mutt lovers with its many bird and animal The popular children’s film founded by Adi Shankaracharya, the The 13th-century Belavadi Temple species. The drive through the Bisle Nagarhole (1977) was set in the Sharadamba and Vidyashankara was built by the Hoysala rulers and Ghats is full of verdant views. Nagarhole and Muthodi forests. temples among other shrines in has more than 100 soapstone pillars Bangalore–Mangalore Highway The location that stood out was the Sringeri. Neighbouring Horanadu in the main hall. There are three approximately 7km from Sakleshpur town 160ft-tall bridge and the 18 tunnels, is noted for a temple to goddess shrines of Lord Vishnu: Narayana, through which the Sakleshpur– Annapurneshwari. Venugopala and Yoganarsimha. Sakleshpur Railway Trek Subramanya railway line passes. 86km from Chikkamagaluru;dawn–dusk 29km from Chikkamagaluru; dawn–dusk Called the ‘Green Route’ this The climax scene featuring a filmi Take pilgrim paeans filmi Take Oh, the horror! abandoned railway track is a baby elephant was filmed in this Samskara was set in Sringeri in The isolated coffee estates and picturesque stretch from Sakleshpur very spot. 42 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 43

Detour: Short trips from Sakleshpur

BELURU & HALEBIDU (37km/50m by road, 50km/1hr) Stunning architecture marks the Hoysala temples at Halebidu and Beluru. The 12th-century Chennakeshava Temple (Temple Rd; 7.30am–7.30pm) is a grand architectural marvel not to be missed in Beluru. The 12th-century (dawn–dusk), is Halebidu’s claim to fame. The temple is set in large gardens, adjacent to which is a small museum (entry`5; 9am– 5pm Sat–Thu) with beautiful sculptures. filmi Take Temple grandeur Beluru and Halebidu featured in the first Kannada film in colour,Amara Shilpi Jakanachari (1964) helmed by actor . It was a biopic on the 12th-century master sculptor of Karnataka who is credited with some of the stunning Hoysala marvels like the Chennakeshava Temple.

SHETTIHALLI CHURCH (44km/1hr) Located an hour’s drive from Sakleshpur, the remains of the Shettihalli Church look almost fairy tale-like in the backdrop of the Gorur Dam catchment area. The crumbling structure stands grandly on the banks while fishermen row their coracles to the middle of the waterbody. Come , the church gets flooded earning it the moniker, ‘the floating church’. filmi Take it’s raining love Hassan’s landmark – the 19th-century Gothic Shettihalli Church that locals call it the ‘floating church’ as it gets marooned in the rains has formed a dramatic backdrop in the lovelorn number Hingyake, hingyake in Patre Loves Padma (2008). The floating church is now a hotspot for pre-wedding shootings for betrothed couples and music videos. The river Hemavati is the backdrop in Mungaru Male (2006), a tearjerker in which the monsoon washes over the romantic duo’s heartbreak. SRAVANABELAGOLA (2hr/90km by road) Atop the bald rock of Vindhyagiri Hill, the 17.5m-high statue of the Jain deity Gomateshvara (Bahubali), towers over Sravanabelagola. A steep climb up 614 steps takes you to the feet of the statue of Gomateshvara (6.30am–6.30pm) filmi Take Bromance Sravanabelagola acts as the perfect rural landscape for Puneeth Rajkumar’s buddy movie, (2011) a tale of three friends and their bromance. The film captured sweeping vistas from atop the hill, the imposing Bahubali and Jain basadis.

Sravanabelagola Temple towers over the Vindhyagiri Hill 44 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 45

4 The Windflower country at the simple but immersive Accommodation rEsort ``` Resorts & Spa Notting Hill Homestay, a cottage COORG %9901446666; www.thewindflower. consisting of three bedrooms with With fantastic guesthouses in the com; Survey No. 201/P1, Kedakal Village, attached bathrooms. This is ideal surrounding plantations, there’s Suntikoppa Hobli, , for a small group looking for privacy, no real reason to stay in Madikeri, Madikeri; d starting `14580, incl meals, excl and is yet in the heart of Madikeri to unless you arrive very late. taxes Built around a woodland area visit sightseeing spots easily. and sprawling coffee plantations, Taj Madikeri the resort is ideal to be close to Club Mahindra HOTEL ``` rEsort ``` Resort & Spa nature but still have contemporary Madikeri Resort %08272 265900; www.tajhotels.com/; luxury facilities. Options like studios, %082722 21114; www.clubmahindra. 1st Monnangeri Galibeedu, Post, Madikeri; suites, and plantation bungalows com; Galibeedu Rd, Madikeri This resort d starting from `16,000, taxes additional are available for every budget offers two categories of rooms: One- Nestled in 180 acres of verdant and preference. In-house dining, bedroom suites and studio rooms. forest, this Taj property has a variety swimming pool, nature-based There is also a spa, two swimming of luxury room options, all of which activities and spa therapies are an pools, gym and three restaurants open out into a central courtyard. added plus. and a bar for guests to entertain. Some of the highlights include a Relish authentic Coorgi cuisine temperature-controlled infinity pool, Notting Hill made using ancient recipes and the homestay ``` pottery and cookery lessons and Homestay freshest ingredients. coffee-tasting sessions. %9940052900; 1428, Stuart Hill; `9000 for the entire cottage Unplug Serene Woods HOmEstay `` Hotel Mayura Valley View offers a comfy stay and unwind in the heart of coffee %94820 22348; www.serenewoods. co.in; Ibnivalavadi Village, , Madikeri; d starting from `5500, Coffee time at Taj Madikeri Resort & Spa incl breakfast, excl taxes A premium homestay with five luxury is one of Madikeri’s best, with large cottages overlooking forested bright rooms, a peaceful ambience green patches and coffee and fantastic valley views. Its plantations, Serene Woods lives up restaurant-bar with a terrace to its name. Delicious local cuisine overlooking the valley is a great is one of the highlights of staying spot for a beer. here, along with its access to Madikeri town. Hotel Chitra HOTEL ` %08272 225372; www.hotelchitra.co.in; Hotel Mayura School Rd; dm `270, d from `780, HOTEL `` Valley View with AC `1760 This is located %08272 228387; www.kstdc.co/hotels/ close to Madikeri’s main hotel-­mayura-valley-view-madikeri; intersection, so expect some Stuart Hill; d/ste incl breakfast from background noise. It provides `3250/4950 On the hilltop past low-cost, no-frills rooms and Raja’s Seat, this government hotel friendly service. 46 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 47

was first introduced to the also join from activities like indoor Tusk And Dawn NATURE STAY `` Chikkamagaluru region by the games, cycling, birdwatching, %9845503354; www.tuskanddawn.com; Serai (a holding of Cafe Coffee trekking, boating and fishing. Post, Hanbal; dorm per head/d Day). The folks here arrange visits `1800/4200 (incl of full board) Enjoy to the plantations where you can SAKLESHPUR a camp-like ambience (without learn about the processes of coffee any real roughing out) with three making, and also get to taste coffee The Hills RESORT ``` comfortable twin cottages and a (only for checked-in guests). The %080 41158187; www.thehills.in; log house eight-bedded dormitory. Serai also offers an OMA Spa and Kuntahalli village, Devaladakere Post, There is an open pavilion for meals, personal pool (or Jacuzzi) in every Sakleshpur Taluk, Hassan Distt; d hiking trails off the property and a villa. The best part of the property is `7000–8000 (incl of full board) The only small waterbody. the wide swimming pool at the end luxury option in the area, the Hills is of a palm boulevard. a combination of Indonesian-style 5 wooden cottages and lavish tents. Eating Flameback Lodges RESORT ``` %8263215170; www.flameback.in; Billur The Planter’s HOMESTAY `` COORG Post, Pattadur village, Taluk; paddy Bungalow cottages `12,000, ste/luxury villas `15,000 %9481925930; Kadamane Checkpost, Raintree MULTI-CUISINE `` onwards (incl of full board) Private villas, Hassan Distt; d `4851 (incl of full board) www.raintree.in; 13–14 Pension Lane; suites and cottages with wide sunny This century-old, English-styled meals `170–260; 11.30am–10pm A Herbs at the spa in Trivik Hotels & Resorts decks and personal Jacuzzis are the house comes with a marvellous view welcome surprise in a humdrum attractions at this exclusive boutique of tea plantations. Expect some The Coorg pandi curry is a popular dish Chikkamagaluru resort. The lodge offers views of great food, treks on the property, tea a lake, waterfall and paddy fields, tasting and elephant sighting (they Trivik Hotels & making for a welcome break from are regular visitors to the property). RESORT ``` Resorts the coffee landscape. Flameback has The 7500-acre Kadamane tea estate, %9880552711, 9148971583; www. only eight rooms, ensuring greater on which the Planters Bungalow is trivikhotels.com, Channagondanahalli, privacy. If you are a dog lover, you will located, has had illustrious owners Elunoorkhan Rd, Mullayanagiri; full like the place even more because of like the Earl of Warwick and tea board from `24,000 Located amid the three friendly German Shepherds conglomerate Brooke Bond. 38 acres of coffee plantations on the property. near Mullayanagiri, this luxurious Jenukallu Valley RESORT `` resort features massive suites with Coffee Village HERITAGE Retreat HOMESTAY `` Jacuzzis, gorgeous views of the hills, Retreat %9241611610; www.jenukallu.com; and a good mix of local cuisine and %8262229599; www.coffeevillageretreat. Athibeedu, Devaladakere Post, Sakleshpur other fare. There’s also a kids’ zone com; Kimmane Plantation, Billur Post, Taluk, Hassan Distt; d `6000 (incl of full to occupy the little ones. Mudigere; d `5000–7000 (incl of full board) The wide expanse of a bare board) Choose between a 150-year- hill dotted with four cottages is The Serai RESORT ``` old colonial plantation bungalow a welcome break after the thick %8262224903; www.theserai.in; KM Rd, and a unit that oozes modern coffee copses. Opt for the cottage Mugthihalli Post; d `22,000–69,000 incl luxury at this unique set-up on a right at the edge of the hill for a of full board Luxury accommodation 300-acre coffee estate. You can better view. 48 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 49

town, this cute converted bungalow after 1pm Sat Get your dosa fix is a homely place for a delicious at the oldest haunt in the city, If You Like: Temple trips meal, with solid wooden furniture the 52-year-old Town Canteen. and some tribal art. The food does Though the unassuming ambience Amruteshwara Temple not disappoint either, with local of weathered wooden benches The 12th-century Hoysala specialities and dishes from the stuffed in a cosy room of this Amruteshwara Temple coast. They also sell wine and great noted Chikkamagaluru landmark with fine architecture Kodagu coffee. It is located just is far from glamorous, the food is and sculptural beauty is behind Madikeri Town Hall. definitely something to write home located in the village of about. Amruthapura, 67km north Coorg Cuisine COORGI ` of Chikkamagaluru town. Main Rd; mains `100–130; noon–4pm Food Palace MULTI-CUISINE `` Kalabhairaveshwara & 7–10pm Championing unique %8262228116; RG Rd; 7am–9.30pm A Temple The ancient Kodava specialities such as pandhi quick stop for south Indian snack Kalabhairaveshwara barthadh (pork dry fry) and food or slightly more elaborate Temple is 30km from kadambuttu (rice dumplings), this Indianised Chinese. Chikkamagaluru in a restaurant is well worth trying. It’s lush copse in the village not exactly atmospheric, located SAKLESHPUR of Devaramane. The above a shop on the main road, but small two-tiered shrine is the seating is comfy. The Ossoor VEGETARIAN `` beautiful to behold. %8173 318072; BM Rd; 7am–11am A Chikkamagaluru pleasant option with ample parking Exquisite sculpture at space, the Ossoor, just outside town, Amruteshwara Temple Town Canteen SOUTH INDIAN `` is an offshoot of the estate by the %8262222325; RG Rd; 11.30am– same name. The restaurant is the 2.30pm, 6.30–8.30pm Mon–Sun, best place for a quick vegetarian 2 Activities range of intriguing and rejuvenating meal on the highway. techniques including rice ball Chikkamagaluru offers local veg fare Coorg Sky massages and oil baths. It’s a short SCENIC FLIGHTS Mythri Restaurant VEGETARIAN `` Adventures walk from the State Bank India. %8173 245244; Puspagiri Comforts, BM %9448954384; www. Rd; 7am–11pm One among the few coorgskyadventures.com; short/ Ballalarayana trekking choices to eat out in Sakleshpur, long flight `2500/8000 Soar over Fort Trek Mythri is nothing out of the ordinary, plantation and paddy valleys on a www.indiahikes.com A trek to the 12th- but is nonetheless a decent stop for microlight flight for tremendous century Ballalarayana Fort built by vegetarian food. views of Coorg’s lush scenery the Hoysala King on the high reaches with an experienced, professional of Bettabalige in Chikkamagaluru at Surabhi’s Nx INDIAN `` operator. 1509ft offers breathtaking views of %8173 249113; BM Rd; 6am–10pm the rolling hills below and is a great A branch of the famous Surabhi Ayurjeevan AYURVEDA one-day trek for nature enthusiasts. restaurant in town, this new eatery %944974779; www.ayurjeevancoorg.com; If you add the Bandajje Arabi Falls to has more seating, and plenty of Kohinoor Rd; `1400; 7am–7pm This is an this hike, it can take up to 4–6 hours parking space. ayurvedic outfit that offers a whole from Gowdara Mane. 50 Best Trips Coorg, Chikkamagaluru 51

Expert Recommendation Karnataka’s arts and crafts Actor has won awards and accolades for her work in Kannada films. Here she lists some of the state’s beautiful handicrafts that are items to treasure.

The best part of outdoor shootings reflected the majesty and opulence for movies is travelling to the of the Karnataka royals who were interesting locales of Karnataka. partial to them. The better part of travelling is cards Under the patronage the sweet surprise of getting to of the 19th-century Wodeyar royals, appreciate artisanal arts and crafts these Persian design-inspired cards of Karnataka’s villages. Support for were painted in beautiful colours traditional craftspeople and artists with motifs of gods and goddesses in is needed to preserve the states’ rich Srirangapatna. arts and crafts. Channapatna gombe Before the Ilkal Textiles Steel town Ballari’s days of mass-produced plasticine pride is the unique tope teni weaving toys, these eco-friendly toys were technique of Ilkal that dates made of wood and coloured with back to the 8th century. Weavers in natural dyes and lacquer, from the Ilkal village produce cotton saris Channapatna. They make for great with silk borders in bright shades gifts for kids and home decor. of red, green and ochre. The pallus This craft gained sport distinct motifs. prominence under the 14th-century Bangalore Silk Legend has it that Badami sultans. This oxidised inlay Tipu Sultan was fond of sericulture metalcraft from Bidar is available and was a patron of these buttery as traditional jars, boxes, and also silks from Mysuru. They are a must fashion jewellery. in a Kannadiga bride’s trousseau. Mysore paintings The technique Ganjam Jewellery If Kolar shines of reverse painting on glass with like gold in the mining map of mineral and natural pigments for India, the tiny village of Ganjam in colours and gesso work sets these Srirangapatna produced unique paintings of beatific gods and handcrafted pieces of jewellery, goddesses apart. Expensive, yes, but sparkling with kempu or rubies that they’re gorgeous collectibles. Ilkal saris are part of Ballari’s textile heritage 52 Best Trips Best of Karnataka 53

Best of Karnataka

Why Go? Movies have showcased the regional variety that the state offers in Kannada movies. Films set in coastal Karnataka and Malnad like Dweepa (2002), Akasmika (1993), Gandu Bherunda (1984) Mungarina Minchu (1997) and Gaalipata (2008); in Uttara Kannada like Mynaa (2010) and Namoora Mandara Hoove (1997); in Krishna Rukmini (1988), Veera Madakari (2009) and Weds (2011) all make for a double treat for travellers bitten by the movie bug. Quick Facts

GETTING THERE & Around Day 3 – Mysuru

Air Bengaluru and Mangalore are Day 4, 5 –Coorg two international airports. Day 6, 7, 8 – Chikkamagaluru, Train The South Western Railway, Halebidu, Belur Railway and Southern Railway connect it to the rest of Day 9, 10, 11 – Mangalore, Udipi, the country. Mulki, Agumbe, Karwar

Road Choose from the vast fleet of Day 12, 13 – Hampi private or KSRTC buses. Best Time to Visit Suggested Itinerary September – March Day 1 and 2 – Bengaluru

Coracle rides beckon on the River Cauvery 54 Best Trips Best of Karnataka 55

Marudheshwar thali, and also as the birthplace of It is a beachside pilgrimage town. the humble dosa. Beach, with its semi-circular FILMI TAKE MASKED ACTION coves joined in the middle, has and bhoota kola hillocks surrounding the beach. traditions of the Tulu Nadu region Kudle Beach, Half Moon Bay and have found a mention in Rangi Paradise Beach are some of the Taranga (2015). Yakshagana picturesque and laidback beaches. expert, Satish Patla, was roped in FILMI TREATS to sea! to Sea! to supervise the sequences in the Girish Kasarvalli’s Gulabi Talkies film. ‘Huli vesha’ or the tiger dance (2008), filmed near , in the region became features the coastal belt and its hugely popular with Rakshit fishing communities.Ondu Muttina Shetty’s Ulidavaru Kandante Kathe (1987) was shot across (2014). Masanada Hovvu (1984)’s Karwar, Gokarna beaches, St Mary’s Kannada naadina karavali, Island and Ghat. Kannada deviya showcased coastal Karnataka’s unparalled essence. Udupi Just inland from the coast, Udupi Yana Beachside blues in Kasaravalli’s Gulabi Talkies filmed at Byndoor is a holy town, home to the ancient The beautiful region of Uttara Sri Krishna Temple and several Kannada offers a varied topography 1 Sights Karwar monasteries. Udupi is famed for its for travellers who have varying It is on the tourist map for its vegetarian food, and is recognised interests. Yana offers the Mangaluru spectacular beaches, islands and across India for its sumptuous extraordinary sight of gigantic black Alternating between relaxed lighthouses. One of Karnataka’s coastal calm and hectic towns, best beaches, Gokarna Beach has Mangaluru (also known Tulu Nadu) a stretch that twists and turns Snapshot: Swami is a useful gateway to the Konkan over several kilometres resembling coast and its beachside fun. It has the outline of an Om, and is also Agumbe in Shivamogga an appealing off-the-beaten-path known as Om Beach. It comprises (Shimoga) is verdant with its feel, and the spicy seafood dishes several gorgeous coves, with quaint villages. The iconic are sensational. With heritage wide stretches interspersed with Shankar Nag helmed-teleseries monuments, churches and forts, smaller patches of sand, perfect for Malgudi Days (1987) was filmed the endless beach towns offer rustic sunbathing and swimming. here. ‘Today, the town may coastal charm. FILMI TREATS ISLE OF LOVE have developed but when we FILMI TAKE COASTAL CALM St. Mary’s Island, off Malpe Beach, were shooting there was only Actor Pramod Shetty, recommends is a sweet spot for moviemakers. one hotel, one barber shop the chicken ghee roast at Shetty Actor Ramesh Aravind said that it and one provisional store in Lunch home in Kundapur and was ‘thrilling to reach the island on a Agumbe,’ says Manjunath who Bangda fish fry and ‘saaru’ boat to shoot’for America America played Swami based on the RK anywhere around the Malpe or (1995). Shubamangala (1975) and Narayan novel. Marvanthe beaches. others were shot here. 56 Best Trips Best of Karnataka 57

Bhairaveshwara Shikara and Mohini kingfishers. Also on offer are a slew FILMI TAKE Sahasralinga Shikara, two black karst limestone of adventure activities, from kayaking Spot the sahasralingas in beauties that house secret temples to bowel-churning white-water Kotigondu Love Story (2015). in their caves. rafting on the swirling waters of the FILMI TAKE ROCKY LOVE River. Belgaum, Gulbarga The trail to this cave destination FILMI TAKE JUNGLE RULES Belgaum, Gulbarga, and its turned popular after it emerged as The forests of are in Raate surrounds have a varied mix of the picnic spot of the three main (2015), Maasti Gudi (2017) and travel spots. A culturally diverse characters in Sunil Kumar Desai’s the River Kali in Dharani Mandala and rich region, North Karnataka is triangular love story Namoora Madhyadolage (1983). known for the ’s Mandara Hoove (1997). heritage monuments and its famous Sirsi vernacular architecture. Dandeli Stomp past the aroma of areca nut FILMI TAKE HERITAGE VAADE Located in the jungles of the Western plantations in Sirsi, a hilly town with North Karnataka’s vernacular Ghats, Dandeli is a wildlife getaway many waterfalls, lush green hills and homesteads or vaade make, for that promises close encounters with valleys. It’s dotted with the holy sites heritage walks for tourists, and wildlife such as elephants, , of the Sri Marikamba Temple, the traditional sets for movies. Note Yakshagana performers in Natasarvabhauma sloth bears, , wild dogs and Madhukeshwar Temple at these quaint homes in Santha rock formations shooting out from flying squirrels. It’s a beloved birding and Sahasralinga, a unique spot of a Shishunala Sharifa (1990), the middle of the dense forest an destination too, with hornbills, thousand lingas in black that Ondanondu Kaaladalli (1982), hour’s drive from Gokarna. A hike golden-backed woodpeckers, seem to float in the gushing waters Thaayi Saheba (1997), Singaaravva will reward you with the sight of serpent eagles and white-breasted of the River Shalmala. (2003) and (1997).

Top Tip: History in Hampi

This UNESCO World Heritage Site in central Karnataka showcases the magnificent ruins of Hampi that has captivated travellers for centuries. While it’s possible to see this World Heritage Site in a day or two, plan on lingering for a while. The main travellers’ ghetto has traditionally been Hampi Bazaar, a village crammed with budget lodges, shops and restaurants, and towered over by the majestic Virupaksha Temple. Tranquil Virupapur Gaddi across the river has become a new popular hang-out. FILMI TAKE HAMPI • Krishna Rukmini (1988) had Vishnuvardhan acting as a tourist guide explaining the beauty and significance of Hampi to dancer . • Virupa (2019) tells the life of three poor boys in Hampi. • Belli Kaalungura (1992)’s song Kelisade kallu kallali Kannada nudi highlights Hampi’s architecture. • Bhale Jodi (1970) and Ranavikrama (2017) both showed Hampi’s beauty. Drumming up the music are the leads in Virupa, set in Hampi 58 Best Trips Best of Karnataka 59

Aihole Some 100 temples, built between the 4th and 6th centuries AD, speck the ancient Chalukyan regional capital of that documents the embryonic stage of south Indian .

Badami Forty kilometres from Aihole, Badami is famous for its magnificent rock-cut cave temples and red sandstone cliffs. It is 13km from . FILMI TAKE STORIES IN STONE Badami and Pattadakal temples formed a stunning backdrop in the and Ragini hit Veera Madakari (2009). Mani Ratnam’s Guru featured the iconic rock-cut cave temples. Scenes in Guru starring Aishwarya Rai were set in Badami Vijapura (Bijapur) A historic city epitomising the Hubli Sandur Deccan’s Islamic era, Vijapura Hubli or Hubbali or flowering Granite rocks and hillocks below (formerly Bijapur) dates back creeper in Kannada is a busy city in mark the former mining district of Thespian Rajkumar’s films showcased some 600 years and has a heap of the north Karnataka region. It’s an Ballari (Bellary), some 300km from Karnataka’s appealing locales , mausoleums, palaces and industrialised city with few tourist Bengaluru. While the mining town fortifications. Set in tranquil gardens, interests but has been a favourite is not a travel magnet its rugged Bidar the magnificent Gol Gumbaz with filmmakers. topogaphy has drawn filmmakers This is home to some amazing ruins mausoleum houses the tombs of FILMI TAKE Hubli circle to turn it into a gritty locale for their and monuments of the 15th-century emperor Mohammed Adil Shah and Chennamma Circle in Hubli many movies. Bahmani kingdom whose Islamic royal family members. Bijapur is also where the song Huttidare FILMI TAKE: SANDUR SAGA legacy is seen in mosques, minarets a centre for the Lingayat brand of Kannada Nadinalli Huttabeku The town of Sandur in Ballari, and forts dotted around the place. Shaivism, which emphasises a single from Aakasmika (1993) featuring is a favourite shooting spot for FILMI TAKE BIDAR ROCKS personalised god. Rajkumar was filmed is a popular filmmakers. Heartbreak sagaManasa Bidar’s rocky outcrops and looming FILMI TAKE Gol Gumbaz location drawing travellers and Sarovara (1982) was set in Sandur; fort make for striking travel hops Vijapura has lent itself to dramatic filmmakers alike. Over 6,000 the mines made for a grim backdrop and movie locales. The well-known backdrops and is a prominent locale policemen were deputed when this in Mufti (2017). Seetharama Gaganave Baagi song from Sanju in films likeOlave Mandara (2011). song was filmed to manage the Kalyana (2019), Power (2014) and weds Geetha (2011) was filmed in Rama Re (2016) showcasing crowds that gathered to watch their the Ello Maleyagide Indu song from this spot. the rough terrain of Bijapur. icon Rajkumar. Manasare (2009) were filmed here. 60 index Index 61

L Rangoli Metro Art Centre, 12 Index Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, 14 Royal Tombs, 37 A Cubbon Park, 13 Abbi Falls, 37 M S activities. see individual locations Sakleshpur, 35–49 Aihole, 58 D Mandya, 20 accommodation, 47 Dandeli, 56–57 accommodation, 28­–31 eating, 48 Devaraja Market, 17 eating, 31 getting there & around, 35 B Dubare Elephant Camp, 38 Mangaluru, 54 sights, 42 Badami, 58 Marudheshwar, 55 Sakleshpur Railway Trek, 41 Melukote, 20 Sandur, 59 Bangalore Palace, 12 F mobile phone, 9 Shimoga, 39 Belavadi, 40–41 forts money, 9 Sirsi, 57 Belgaum, Gulbarga, 57 Bangalore Fort, 15 Mysuru, 11–31 Sravanabelagola, 42 Beluru, 42 Madikeri Fort & Palace, 36 accommodation, 28­–31 Sringeri, 40 Bengaluru, 11–31 Manjarabad Fort, 41 eating, 31 Srirangapatna, 20 accommodation, 22­–25 getting there & around, 11 St Mark’s Cathedral, 14 eating, 25–28 sights, 16–19 getting there & around, 11 H Mysuru Palace, 16–17 nightlife, 28 Hal Aerospace Museum & Heritage Mysuru Zoo, 19 T sights, 12–16 Centre, 16 temples Bidar, 57, 58 Halebidu, 42 Amruteshwara The Big Mountain Loop, 38 Hampi, 56–57 N Temple, 49 Bisle Reserve Forest, 41 Hubli, 59 nightlife. see individual locations Bull Temple, 16 Igguthappa Temple, 37­­­–38 C J O Kalabhairaveshwara , 37 Chamundi Hill, 18 Jaganmohan Palace, 17–18 Temple, 49 Omkareshwar Temple, 37 Chikkamagaluru, 35–49 Jayalaksmi Vilas Mansion Museum P Complex, 18 Tipu Sultan’s Palace, 16 accommodation, 46–47 palaces Jog Falls, 39 tourist information, 9 activities, 49 Bangalore Palace, 12 eating, 48 Jaganmohan Palace, 17–18 getting there & around, 35 Madikeri Fort & Palace, 36 K U sights, 38–41 Mysuru Palace, 16–17 Kalhatti Falls, 38–39 Udupi, 55 Chitradurga, 19 Tipu Sultan’s Palace, 16 Coffee Yatra, 40–41 Karnataka, 53–59 Coorg, 35–49 getting there & around, 53 V accommodation, 44–45 sights, 54–59 R Vijapura (Bijapur), 58 activities, 49 Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath, 13 Rail Museum, 18 eating, 47–48 Karwar, 54 Raja’s Seat, 36 getting there & around, 35 Kemmanagundi & Hebbe Falls, 38 Ramanagara Hill, 15 Y sights, 36–38 Krishnarajendra Market, 14–15 Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, 20 Yana, 55–56 62 Acknowledgements Acknowledgements 63

PICTURE CREDITS ITC Gardenia: 22B. This guide has been LONELY PLANET INDIA TEAM Placement key: T =TOP, TC=TOP Karnataka Tourism Board: 2, 10. researched and authored by: Senior Commissioning Editor CENTRE, TR=TOP RIGHT, TL=TOP Sudha G Tilak Madras Talkies: 59T. Shruti Indira LEFT, C=CENTRE, CR=CENTRE Design Manager Kavita Saha Lakshminarayana RIGHT, CL=CENTRE LEFT, Manjunath: 55B. Picture Research Manager has worked as an B=BOTTOM, BC=BOTTOM CENTRE, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms: 24B. Shweta Andrews entertainment and BR=BOTTOM RIGHT, BL=BOTTOM Mayura Resort, Srirangapatna: 29B. Layout Designer Ankur Guha LEFT. lifestyle journalist in Passion Inside Out Creative print, online and TV Although we have done our best to Consulting: 19T. media over the past credit all the copyright holders of eight years. Films are her first love photographs, we apologise for any Pawan Kumar Studios: 12T. and writing her favourite medium of unintentional omissions. If informed Punik Shetty: 57B. of any further acknowledgements we expression. Her urge to explore new Although the authors and films: 7T. will definitely include them in future places and culture is constant and it Lonely Planet have taken all editions of the book. Rockline Entertainments Pvt Ltd: specifically shows in her writing. reasonable care in preparing 56T. this book, we make no Lonely Planet would like to thank warranty about the accuracy Shutterstock.com: Akimov This edition includes extracts from the following photographers, or completeness of its content Konstantin 43; NatureClicks 49T; PI Lonely Planet India (2017) organizations and picture libraries and, to the maximum extent for permission to reproduce their 33; Pikoso.kz 52; Narayanan This book has been sponsored by permitted, disclaim all liability photographs: 48B; BR 34; vm2002 29T\ DoT, Government of Karnataka and arising from its use. 47B. Audience films: Pawan Kumar 8T, KSTDC. 14T. Silent Shores Resort & Spa: 31B. Special thanks to TK Kumar, Church Street Social: 27B. Sirinhivas: 36T. Secretary, Karnataka Tourism, and Kumar , MD, KSTDC. Crazymindz: 15B. .V.G: 37B, 38B. Crystal Park Cinemas: 21, 39T. Sruthi Hariharan: 50. D Pictures: 40T. Sunil Kumar Desai: 28B. D.S.Sunil Sharma: 5B, 16T. Taj Madikeri Resort & Spa: 45T. Fatty Bao: 25T. The Oberoi: 23T. G Venket Ram: 18B. Trivik Hotels & Resorts: 46T. Getty Images: Indranil Mukherjee/ Wikipedia: ©1990 Numero Uno 17B. AFP 58T; Vittorio Zunino Celotto / Windflower Resorts & Spa: 30T. Staff 13B. COVER IMAGES: FRONT – Girish Kasaravalli: 6B, 41T, 54T. shremahesh. BACK – Rajendra Bhat/ Gully Tours: 30B. Shutterstock.com – LEFT; Vladimir Zhoga/ Shutterstock.com – CENTRE; Hotel Mayura Valley View: 44B. Shubhakant/ Shutterstock.com – Infinitea: 26T. RIGHT. 64 Acknowledgements

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