05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page 4

1 The Best of

Rome is a city of vivid and unforgettable images: the view of the city’s silhou- ette from Hill at dawn, the array of broken marble columns and ruins of temples of the , St. Peter’s dome against a pink-and-red sunset, capping a gloriously decorated basilica. Rome is also a city of sounds, beginning early in the morning with the peal of church bells calling the faithful to Mass. As the city awakens and comes to life, the sounds multiply and merge into a kind of . The streets fill with cars, taxis, and motor scooters, all blaring their horns as they weave in and out of traffic; the sidewalks become overrun with bleary-eyed office work- ers rushing to their desks after stealing into crowded cafes for the first cappuc- cino of the day. The shops lining the streets open for business by raising their protective metal grilles as loudly as possible, seeming to delight in their contri- bution to the general din. Before long, fruit and vegetable stands are abuzz with activity as homemakers, maids, cooks, and others arrive to purchase their day’s supply of fresh produce, haggling over prices and clucking over quality. By 10am the tourists are on the streets, battling crowds and traffic as they wind their way from Renaissance palaces and buildings to the famous ruins of antiquity. Indeed, Rome often appears to have two populations: one of Romans and one of visitors. During the summer months especially, the city plays host to a horde of countless sightseers who converge on it with guidebooks and cameras in hand. To all—Americans, Europeans, Japanese—Rome extends a warm and friendly welcome, wining, dining, and entertaining them in its inimitable fashion. (Of course, if you visit in August, you might see only tourists, not Romans, because the locals flee the summer heat of the city. Or, as one Roman woman once told us, “Even if we’re too poor to go on vacation, we close the shutters and pre- tend we’re away so neighbors won’t find out we couldn’t afford to leave the city.”) The traffic, unfortunately, is worse than ever. As the capital, Rome also remains at the center of the major political scandals and corruption known as Tangentopoli (bribe city), which sends hundreds of government bureaucrats to jail each year. Despite all this chaos, Romans still know how to live the good life. After you’ve doneCOPYRIGHTED your duty to culture by wandering throughMATERIAL the and being awed by the Pantheon, after you’ve traipsed through St. Peter’s Basilica and thrown a coin in the , you can pause to experience the charm of the Roman evening. Find a cafe at summer twilight and watch the shades of pink turn to gold and copper before night finally falls. That’s when another Rome comes alive; restaurants and cafes grow more animated, especially if you’ve found one on an ancient hidden piazza or along a narrow alley deep in Trastevere. After dinner, you can have a gelato (or an espresso in winter) or stroll by the or through , and the night is yours. 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE ROME EXPERIENCES 5

In chapter 7, we’ll tell you all about whole. Here we’ve tried to capture the the ancient monuments and basilicas. special experiences that might well be But monuments are only a piece of the the highlights of your visit.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Rome Experiences • Walking Through Ancient sheets of water splatter on the col- Rome. A vast, almost unified orful marble floor. It enters archaeological park cuts through through the oculus on top, which the center of Rome. For those who provides the only light for the want specific guidance, we have a interior. See “The Pantheon & walking tour in chapter 8 that will Attractions Near Piazza Navona & lead you through these haunting Campo de’ Fiori” in chapter 7. ruins. But it’s fun to wander on • Taking a Sunday Bike Ride. your own and let yourself get lost Only a daredevil would try this on on the very streets where Julius city streets on a weekday, but on a Caesar and Lucrezia Borgia once clear Sunday morning, while trod. A slice of history unfolds at Romans are still asleep, you can every turn: an ancient fountain, a rent a bike and discover Rome long-forgotten statue, a ruined with your own two wheels. The temple dedicated to some long- Villa Borghese is the best place to faded cult. A narrow street sud- bike. Its 6.5km (4-mile) borders denly opens to a view of a contain a world unto itself, with triumphal arch. The Roman museums and galleries, a riding Forum and the are school, an artificial lake, and a the highlights, but the glory of grassy amphitheater. Another Rome is hardly confined to these choice place for Sunday biking is dusty fields. If you wander long the Villa Doria Pamphilj, an enough, you’ll eventually emerge extensive park lying above the Jan- onto Piazza della Rotunda to stare iculum. Laid out in the mid- in awe at one of Rome’s most glo- 1600s, this is Rome’s largest park, rious sights, the Pantheon. with numerous fountains and • Hanging Out at the Pantheon. some summer houses. The world’s best-preserved ancient • Strolling at Sunset in the Pincio monument is now a hot spot— Gardens. Above the landmark especially at night. Find a cafe , this terraced table out on the square and take in and lushly planted hillside is the the action, which all but awaits a most romantic place for a twilight young Fellini to record it. The walk. A dusty orange-rose glow Pantheon has become a symbol of often colors the sky, giving an oth- Rome itself, and we owe our erworldly aura to the park’s thanks to Hadrian for leaving it to umbrella pines and broad avenues. the world. When you tire of peo- The ancient Romans turned this ple-watching and cappuccino, you hill into gardens, but today’s look can go inside to inspect the tomb came from the design of Giuseppe of Raphael, who was buried here Valadier in the 1800s. Pause at the in 1520. (His mistress, “La Forna- main piazza, Napoleone I, for a rina,” wasn’t allowed to attend the spectacular view of the city stretch- services.) Nothing is more dra- ing from the Janiculum to Monte matic than being in the Pantheon Mario. The Egyptian-style obelisk during a rainstorm, watching the here was erected by Emperor 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 2:59 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ROME

Hadrian on the tomb of his great tomato. See “The Pantheon & love, Antinous, a beautiful male Attractions Near Piazza Navona & slave who died prematurely. See Campo de’ Fiori” in chapter 7. “The , the Trevi • Attending the Opera. The Fountain & Attractions Nearby” Milanese claim that Roman opera in chapter 7. pales in comparison with La Scala, • Enjoying Roma di Notte. At but Roman opera buffs, of course, night, ancient monuments such as beg to differ. At Rome’s Teatro the Forum are bathed in a theatri- dell’Opera, the season runs cal white light; it’s thrilling to see between December and June, and the glow of the Colosseum with programs concentrate on the clas- the moon rising behind its arches. sics: Bellini, Donizetti, Puccini, Begin your evening with a Roman and Rossini. No one seems to passeggiata (early evening stroll) touch the Romans’ operatic soul along or Piazza more than Giuseppe Verdi Navona. There’s plenty of action (1813–1901), who became a going on inside the clubs, too, national icon in his support for from to Piazza Navona. Italian unification. See “The Per- Club kids flock to the colorful nar- forming Arts” in chapter 10. row streets of Trastevere, the area • Climbing Janiculum Hill. On around the Pantheon, and the the Trastevere side of the river, even more remote Testaccio. The where Garibaldi held off the jazz scene is especially good, and attacking French troops in 1849, big names often pop in. An Eng- the Janiculum Hill was always lish-language publication available strategic in Rome’s defense. Today at newsstands for .75€ (85¢), a walk in this park at the top of Wanted in Rome, will keep you the hill can provide an escape abreast of what’s happening. from the hot, congested streets of • Exploring Campo de’ Fiori at Trastevere. Filled with monu- Midmorning. In an incomparable ments to Garibaldi and his brave setting of medieval houses, this is men, the hill is no longer pep- the liveliest fruit and vegetable pered with monasteries, as it was market in Rome, where peddlers in the Middle Ages. A stroll will offer their wares as they’ve done for reveal monuments and fountains, centuries. The market is best vis- plus panoramic views over Rome. ited after 9am any day but Sunday. The best vista is from Villa Lante, By 1pm the stalls begin to close. a Renaissance summer residence. Once the major site for the The most serene section is the medieval inns of Rome (many of 1883 Botanical Gardens, with which were owned by Vanozza palm trees, orchids, bromeliads, Catanei, the 15th-century courte- and sequoias—more than 7,000 san and lover of Pope Alexander plant species from all over the VI Borgia), this square maintains world. See “More Attractions” in some of its old bohemian atmos- chapter 7. phere. We often come here when • Strolling Along the . With- we’re in Rome for a unique, lively out the Tiber River, there might view of local life. Often you’ll spot have been no Rome at all. A key your favorite trattoria chef bar- player in the city’s history for mil- gaining for the best and freshest lennia, the river flooded the capital produce, everything from fresh every winter until it was tamed in cherries to the perfect vine-ripened 1870. The massive lungotevere 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 7

FROMMER’S FAVORITE ROME EXPERIENCES 7

embankments on both sides of the Barberini, in the center of which Tiber check the waters and make a stands Bernini’s second most dra- perfect place for a memorable matic fountain, the Fontana del Tri- stroll. You can not only walk along tone. From the piazza, go along Via the river from which Cleopatra delle Quattro Fontane, bypassing made her grand entrance into (on your left) the , Rome, but you’ll also see the river- designed by Bernini and others for side life of Trastevere and the Jew- Pope Urban VIII. At the famous ish Ghetto. Start at Piazza della crossroads of Rome, Le Quattro Bocca della Verità in the early Fontane, take Via del Quirinale to evening; from there, you can go for see the facade of Sant’Andrea, one 3 some 3km (1 ⁄4 miles) or more. For of the artist’s greatest churches. a stroll that takes you to sites along Continue west, bypassing the Pan- the river, see the “Renaissance theon, to arrive eventually at Piazza Rome” walking tour in chapter 8. Navona, which Bernini remodeled • Picnicking on Isola Tiberina. In for Pope Innocent X. The central ancient times, this boat-shape fountain, the Fontana dei Fiumi, is island stood across from the port Bernini’s masterpiece, although the of Rome and from 293 B.C. was figures representing the four rivers home to a temple dedicated to were sculpted by others following Aesculapius, the god of healing. A his plans. church was constructed in the • Spending a Day on the Appian 10th century on the ruins of this Way. Dating from 312 B.C., the ancient temple. You can reach the (Via Appia) once tra- island from the Jewish Ghetto by versed the whole peninsula of Italy the Ponte Fabricio footbridge, and was the road on which which dates from 62 B.C. and is Roman legions marched to Brin- the Tiber’s oldest original bridge. disi and their conquests in the Romans come here to sunbathe, East. One of its darkest moments sitting along the river’s banks, and was the crucifixion in 71 B.C.of to escape the traffic and the the rebellious slave army of Spar- crowds. Arrive with the makings tacus, whose bodies lined the road of a picnic, and the day is yours. from Rome to Capua. Fashionable See the “Trastevere” walking tour Romans were buried here, and in chapter 8. early Christians dug catacombs • Following in the Footsteps of through which to flee their perse- Bernini. One of the most enjoyable cutors. Begin at the Tomb of ways to see Rome is to follow the Cecilia Metella and proceed up trail of Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini Via Appia Antica past a series of (1598–1680), who left a greater tombs and monuments (including mark on the city than even a monument to Seneca, the great Michelangelo. Under the patronage moralist who committed suicide of three different popes, Bernini on the orders of Nero, and “baroqued” Rome. Start at Largo di another to Pope St. Urban, who Santa Susanna, north of the reigned A.D. 222–230). The sights Stazione Termini, at the Church of along Via Appia Antica are some Santa Maria , which of Rome’s most fascinating. You houses one of Bernini’s most con- can go all the way to the Church troversial sculptures, the Ecstasy of of Domine Quo Vadis. See “The St. Teresa, from 1646. Walk from Appian Way & the Catacombs” in here along Via Barberini to Piazza chapter 7. 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ROME

• Enjoying a Taste of the Grape. counting? The waiters won’t rush While in Rome, do as the Romans you out the door even when you’ve do and indulge in a carafe of dry overstayed your time at the table. white wine from the warm climate This is a special experience, and of . In restaurants and tratto- Rome has dozens of these little rie you’ll find the most popular restaurants. Two, in particular, brand, Frascati, but try some of come to mind: Montevecchio, the other wines from the Castelli Piazza Montevecchio 22A (& 06- Romani, too, including Colli 6861319), on the square near Albani, Velletri, and Marino. All Piazza Navona where both these wines come from one grape: Raphael and Bramante had studios trebbiano. Sometimes a dash of and Lucrezia Borgia was a frequent malvasia is added for greater flavor visitor. Try the pasta of the day or and an aromatic bouquet. Of the roebuck with polenta. Or sam- course, you don’t have to wait ple the menu at Vecchia Roma, until dinner to sip wine; you can Via della Tribuna di Campitella 18 sample it at any of hundreds of (& 06-6864604), with a theatri- wine bars throughout Rome, cal setting on a lovely square. which offer a selection of all the Order spaghetti with double- great reds and whites of Italy. horned clams and enjoy the old- • Savoring Gelato on a Summer fashioned ambience while you rub Afternoon. Having a gelato on a elbows with savvy local foodies. hot summer day is worth the wait • Hearing Music in the Churches. through the long winter. Tubs of Artists such as Plácido Domingo homemade ice cream await you in and Luciano Pavarotti have per- a dazzling array of flavors: every- formed around Rome in halls thing from candied orange peels ranging from churches to ancient with chocolate to watermelon, to ruins. Churches often host con- rice. Gelaterie offer semifreddi con- certs, although by decree of Pope coctions (made with cream instead John Paul II, it must be sacred of milk) in such flavors as almond, music—no hip-grinding, body- marengo (a type of meringue), and slamming stuff. When church zabaione (or zabaglione) (eggnog). concerts are performed, programs Seasonal fresh fruits are made into appear not only outside the ice creams of blueberry, cherry, and church, but also on various peach. Granite (crushed ice) fla- announcements posted through- vored with sweet fruit is another out Rome. The top professionals cool delight on a sultry night. Tre play at the “big-name” churches, Scalini at Piazza Navona is the but don’t overlook those smaller, most fabled spot for enjoying hard-to-find churches on hidden divino tartufo, a chocolate concoc- squares. Some of the best music tion with a taste to match its name. we’ve ever heard has been by up- • Dining on a Hidden Piazza. If and-coming musicians getting you’re in Rome with that special their start in these little-known someone, you’ll appreciate the churches. The biggest event is the romance of discovering your own RAI (national broadcasting com- little neighborhood trattoria that pany) concert on December 5 at opens onto some forgotten square St. Peter’s—even the pope attends. deep in the heart of ancient Rome. Other favorite locations for church And if your evening dinner music include Sant’Ignazio di extends for 3 or 4 hours, who’s Loyola, on Piazza di Sant’Ignazio, 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 9

BEST HOTEL BETS 9

and San Paolo Fuori le Mura, at their deaths. Home during the day Via Ostiense 186. to the , it • Walking from Fountain to Foun- takes on a different aura at night, tain. On summer nights you’ll when it’s dramatically lit, the find Romans—especially those measured Renaissance facades who live in crowded ghetto apart- glowing like jewel boxes. The ments without air-conditioning— evening views of the brilliantly lit out walking from fountain to Forum and Palatine are also worth cooling fountain. Every visitor the long trek up those stairs. makes at least one trip to Bernini’s There’s no more stunning fountain on Piazza Navona, after cityscape view at night than from stopping off at the this hill. See “The Colosseum, the to toss in a coin (thus ensuring Roman Forum & Highlights of their return to Rome), but there Ancient Rome” in chapter 7. are hundreds more. One hidden • Shopping in the Flea Markets. gem is the Fontana delle We’ve never discovered an original Tararughe, in tiny Piazza Mattei. Raphael at Rome’s It has stood there since 1581, a flea market (which locals call mer- jewel of Renaissance sculpture cato delle pulci). But we’ve picked showing youths helping tortoises up some interesting souvenirs over into a basin. Our favorite Bernini the years. The market, the largest fountain is at Piazza Barberini; his in Europe, began after World War Fontana del Tritone is a magnifi- II when black marketers needed cent work of art from 1642 show- an outlet for illegal wares. Today ing the sea god blowing through a the authentic art and antiques shell. Unfortunately, it’s now once sold here have given way to against the law to jump into these reproductions, but the selection fountains and paddle around as remains enormous: World War II Anita Ekberg did in La Dolce Vita. cameras, caviar from immigrant • Hanging Out in the Campi- Russians, luggage (fake Gucci), doglio at Night. There is no more spare parts, Mussolini busts, and splendid place to be at night than so on. Near Porta Sublicio in Piazza del Campidoglio, where Trastevere, the market has some Michelangelo designed both the 4,000 stalls, but it’s estimated that geometric paving and the facades only 10% of them have a license. of the buildings. A broad flight of Sunday from 5am to 2pm is the steps, the Cordonata, takes you up best time to visit, but beware of to this panoramic site, a citadel of pickpockets at all times. See ancient Rome from which traitors “Shopping A to Z” in chapter 9. to the empire were once tossed to

2 Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: The truly town to offer “a private bathroom grand St. Regis Grand, Via Vitto- and two electric lights in every rio Emanuele Orlando 3 (& 06- room.” Its roster of guests has 47091; www.stregis.com/grand included some of the greatest rome), was created by César Ritz names in European history, in 1894, with the great chef including royalty, naturally, but Escoffier presiding over a lavish also such New World moguls as banquet. It was the first hotel in Henry Ford and J. P. Morgan. 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ROME

This lavish hotel is within walking for dinner; the hotel’s Relais Le distance of many of Rome’s major Jardin is one of the finest and most sights. See p. 68. romantic restaurants in Rome. • Best Recycled Hotels: A real dis- See p. 93. covery and a charmer, The Inn at • Best Classic Choice: Ernest the Spanish Steps, Via dei Con- Hemingway and Ingrid Bergman dotti 85 (& 06-69925657), is the don’t hang out here anymore, but former Roman residence of Hans the Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49 Christian Andersen. It has been (& 800/225-5843 in the U.S., or transformed into one of the most 06-478121; www.hotel-eden.it), desirable little upscale inns of remains grand and glamorous. Rome, with each bedroom fur- Views over the city are stunning, nished in gorgeous, authentic the hotel restaurant (La Terraza) is period decor. Not far away, the one of the city’s best, and every- brilliantly restored Hotel de thing looks as if it’s waiting for Russie, Via del 9 (& 800/ photographers from Architectural 323-7500 in North America, or Digest to arrive. See p. 74. 06/328-881; www.rfhotels.com), • Best for Families: Families gravi- was a retreat for artists, including tate to the Hotel , Via Picasso and Stravinsky. Reclaim- dei Petinari 64 (& 06-6863100), ing its 1890s style, it’s been near the Piazza Navona and the remade as a stunning little bou- Campo de’Fiori in the heart of tique hotel with a fabulous loca- Rome. It’s a restored Renaissance tion right off the Piazza del palazzo offering reasonably priced Popolo and excellent service. See family suites on its top floor with p. 84. terraces overlooking the rooftops • Best for Business Travelers: The of the ancient city. See p. 79. restored neoclassical palace, Exe- • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: dra, Piazza della Repubblica So you don’t have a bottomless (& 06-489381; www.boscolo expense account? We’ve got a cou- hotels.com), stands right in the ple of wonderful values for you. heart of Rome near the Termini. A Consider the Hotel Columbia, Via government-rated five-star hotel, del Viminale 15 (& 06-4744289 it is equipped with all the ameni- or 06-4883509; www.venere.it/ ties, including a well-run business roma/columbia), one of the center. Executives will also find a newest properties in the neighbor- helpful, multilingual staff ready to hoods surrounding Stazione Ter- help ease their adjustment to the mini; everything is well-maintained Eternal City. See p. 68. and comfortable. We also like La • Best for a Romantic Getaway: A Residenza, Via Emilia 22–24 private villa in the exclusive (& 06-4880789; www.italyhotel. residential area, the Hotel Lord com/roma/la_residenza), with a Byron, Via G. de Notaris 5 convenient location near the Villa (& 06-3220404), is a chic hide- Borghese and Piazza Barberini. away. It has a clubby ambience, and Here you’ll get a good price on a everybody is oh-so-very-discreet homey, spacious guest room. See here. You get personal attention in p. 70 and p. 76, respectively. subdued opulence, and the staff • Best Service: Both management definitely respects that DO NOT and staff at the Hotel de la Ville DISTURB sign on the door. You Inter-Continental Roma, Via don’t even have to leave the premises Sistina 67–69 (& 800/327-0200 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 11

BEST HOTEL BETS 11

in the U.S. and Canada, or 06- unique brand of low-key opu- 67331; www.interconti.com), are lence. Plus, it’s just 2 blocks west highly professional and exceedingly of the Spanish Steps. The hotel’s hospitable. The staff is particularly public rooms feature black-and- adept at taking messages, giving white checkerboard marble floors, you helpful hints about what to see and its upholstered lounges are and do in Rome, and fulfilling any filled with antiques. The fifth special room-service requests. floor has some of the loveliest ter- Their general attentiveness to your races in Rome, and the romantic needs, quick problem solving, restaurant below has trompe l’oeil good manners, and friendly help- clouds that give the impression of fulness make this place exceptional. a courtyard terrace open to the Room service is available 24 hours sky. See p. 84. daily. See p. 83. • Best in a Real Roman Neighbor- • Best Location: Everybody knows hood: You can’t get more Roman about the astronomically expen- than the Hotel Teatro di Pom- sive The Hassler, Piazza Trinità peo, Largo del Pallaro 8 (& 06- dei 6 (& 800/223-6800 in 68300170; www.hotelteatrodi the U.S., or 06-699340; www. pompeo.it), which offers rooms hotelhasslerroma.com), a grand with charming touches such as old hotel set right at the top of the hand-painted tiles and beamed Spanish Steps. But given its high ceilings. The hotel is actually built prices and the fact that it’s gotten on top of the ruins of the Theater a bit dowdy, we’ll send you instead of Pompey, where Caesar met his to the Hotel Scalinata di Spagna fate. It’s on a quiet piazzetta near (& 06-6793006; www.hotel the and Campo scalinata.com), which is across the de’ Fiori, whose open-air market street at no. 17 on the same piazza makes this one of Rome’s most and isn’t so breathtakingly pricey. colorful neighborhoods. Shopping This intimate, upscale inn has a and nightlife abound in this fasci- roof garden with a sweeping view nating section of Renaissance of the dome of St. Peter’s across Rome, and restaurants and the Tiber. When you step out your pizzerie keep the area lively at all door, the heart of Rome, includ- hours. See p. 80. ing its best shopping streets, is at • Best Value: Rated three stars by your feet. See p. 86. the government, the Hotel delle • Best Views: A great place to book Muse, Via Tommaso Salvini 18 1 a room with a view is the Albergo (& 06-8088333), lies .5km ( ⁄3 Del Sole al Pantheon, Piazza della mile) north of the Villa Borghese. Rotonda 63 (& 06-6780441; It’s run by the efficient, English- www.hotelsolealpantheon.com), speaking Giorgio Lazar. The fur- where you can gaze out at the Pan- nishings are modern and come in theon from your bedroom win- a wide range of splashy colors. In dow. See p. 81. summer, Mr. Lazar operates a gar- • Best for Understated Elegance: den restaurant serving a reason- Of course, it’s not as elegant or as ably priced fixed-price menu, and grand as the Excelsior, the Eden, the bar is open 24 hours a day. or The Hassler, but the Hotel This is one of Rome’s best bar- d’Inghilterra, Via Bocca di Leone gains, and you should consider 14 (& 06-699811; www.hoteling checking in before he wises up hilterraroman.it), has its own and raises his rates. See p. 93. 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ROME

3 Best Dining Bets • Best for Romance: A great place • Best for a Celebration: Romans to pop the question or just enjoy a have been flocking to Checchino romantic evening is Sapori del dal 1887, Via di Lord Byron, in the Hotel Lord 30 (& 06-5746318), since the Byron, Via G. de Notaris 5 early 19th century for fun and (& 06-3613041), a stunner of a hearty food. With a bountiful place that also just happens to array of wine and foodstuffs, every serve the best Italian cuisine in meal seems like a party. The tables town. The decor is as romantic as are packed nightly, and the place is the atmosphere; it’s all white lattice a local legend. You’ll have fun and bold Italian colors highlighted while still enjoying some of the by masses of fresh flowers. The set- best cuisine in town. See p. 126. ting is in a Relais & Châteaux– • Best Decor: By night, chic member hotel, an Art Deco villa Romans and savvy foreign visitors set on a residential hilltop in Pari- alike show up at El Toulà (The oli, an area of embassies and exclu- Hayloft), Via della Lupa 29B sive town houses at the edge of the (& 06-6873498), an elegant Villa Borghese. See p. 126. establishment set near the fabled • Best of the Best: Food critics can Caffé Greco and some of the most never agree on the best restaurant upscale boutiques in Rome. It’s no in Rome. But the more discerning bargain, but once you see the cite La Pergola, in the Cavalieri sumptuous setting and, more Hilton, Via Cadolo 101 (& 06- important, enjoy the cuisine, 3509221), opening onto a you’ll think you’ve gotten your panoramic view at night from its money’s worth. Haute cuisine is perch atop Monte Mario. The tal- served in a subdued, tasteful set- ented chef’s take on Mediterranean ting of antiques, paintings, ever- cuisine is sublime. See p. 127. so-discreet lighting, and to-die-for • Best Seasonal Menus: Market- flower arrangements. See p. 118. fresh ingredients await you at Il • Best View: The stars really do Convivio, Vicolo dei Soldati 31 come out at night at Les Etoiles (& 06-6869432), one of Rome’s (The Stars), in the Hotel Atlante most acclaimed restaurants. The Star (& 06-6873233), which has Troiano brothers are truly been called “the most beautiful inspired, shopping the markets for rooftop in Italy.” This restaurant is the best in any season and adjust- a virtual garden in the sky, with a ing their menus accordingly. The 360-degree view of Roman land- location is in walking distance of marks, including the floodlit dome . See p. 112. of St. Peter’s. Try for an alfresco • Best Offbeat Choice: A lay sister- table in summer, but even in win- hood of missionary Christians ter, the same incredible view can from five continents operates be seen through picture windows. L’Eau Vive, Via Monterone 85 Fortunately, the food—delicately (& 06-68801095), where various prepared Mediterranean cuisine popes have dined. A fine French using the freshest of ingredients— and international cuisine is served lives up to the setting. See p. 122. in a subdued, refined atmosphere • Best Pizzeria: Even the hardest- under frescoed ceilings. You never to-please Roman pizza lovers head know what will be on the menu. for Pizzeria Baffetto, Via del See p. 114. 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 13

BEST DINING BETS 13 Governo Vecchio 114 (& 06- Ludovisi 49 (& 06-478121), edg- 6861617). This is a popular and ing out a position long held by fun place, drawing a young crowd. Sans Souci. In the newly and fab- The crusts are delightfully thin. ulously restored Hotel Eden, you See p. 117. can dine on Continental cuisine • Best Wine List: The food is sec- that is both bold and innovative. ondary to the fabulous wine list at The seasonal menu offers the the Trimani Wine Bar, Via Cer- most polished, sophisticated cui- naia 37B (& 06-4469630). One sine in Rome; perhaps you’ll of the best tasting centers in Rome choose a “symphony” of seafood for both French and Italian vin- or a warm salad of grilled vegeta- tages, this elegant wine bar offers a bles. See p. 104. dazzling array of wines at reason- • Best Emilia-Romagna Cuisine: able prices. The Trimani family The area around Bologna has long has had a prestigious name in the been celebrated for serving the wine business since 1821; just sit finest cuisine in Italy, and the little down and let the pouring begin. trattoria Colline Emiliane, Via See p. 102. Avignonesi 22 (& 06-4817538), • Best Value: Twenty dollars gets maintains that stellar reputation you one of the finest fixed-price among Romans. The pastas here menus in Rome at the Ristorante are among the best in Rome, espe- del Pallaro, Largo del Pallaro 15 cially the handmade tortellini alla (& 06-68801488). Each dish is panna (with cream sauce) with prepared by the chef-owner, Paola truffles. You can order less expen- Fazi, who sternly urges her diners to sive pastas as well, all of them “Mangia! Mangia!” The moment good. The prosciutto comes from you’re seated at the table, the dishes a small town near Parma and is start to arrive—first a selection of considered by many the best in antipasto; then the homemade, suc- the world. See p. 105. culent pastas of the day; followed • Best Roman Cuisine: The tempt- by such meat courses as tender ing selection of antipasti alone is roast veal. Everything’s included, enough to lure you to Al Ceppo even a carafe of the house wine. (The Log), Via Panama 2 (& 06- See p. 110. 8419696). Try such appetizers as • Best for the Kids: After their tour stuffed yellow or red peppers, or of the Vatican or St. Peter’s, many finely minced cold spinach savvy Roman families head for the blended with ricotta. Only 2 Ristorante Il Matriciano, Via dei blocks from the Villa Borghese, Gracchi 55 (& 06-3212327). It’s this is a dining address jealously not fancy, but the price is right, guarded by Romans, who often and in summer you can opt for a bring friends from out of town sidewalk table. Let your kids feast here. They feast on the succulent on good, reasonably priced home- lamb chops, charcoal-grilled to made fare that includes such perfection, or other grilled meats, crowd pleasers as ricotta-stuffed such as quail, liver, and bacon. See ravioli. At the next table you’re p. 127. likely to see some priests from the • Best Seafood: In the heart of Vatican dining. See p. 123. ancient Rome, Quinzi & • Best Continental Cuisine: The Gabrieli, Via delle Coppelle 5–6 city’s finest restaurant is now La (& 06-6879389), serves the city’s Terrazza, in the Hotel Eden, Via finest and freshest seafood from a 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ROME

restored and elegant building dat- enjoy terrific grilled fish and Flo- ing from the 1400s. The fish is rentine steaks here. See p. 124. simply cooked and presented, and • Best for People-Watching: Join it’s heavenly. Expect everything the beautiful people—young from deep-sea shrimp to sea actors, models, and artists from urchins and octopus. See p. 111. nearby Via Margutta—who • Best Nuova Cucina: Near the descend at night on Piazza del Vittorio Emanuele monument, Popolo. Young men with their silk Agata e Romeo, Via Carlo Alberto shirts unbuttoned alight from 45 (& 06-4466115), serves one of sports cars to go on the prowl. At Rome’s most inventive and creative Dal Bolognese, Piazza del Popolo cuisines in a striking dining room 1–2 (& 06-3611426), not only done in Liberty style. If you’d like can you take in this fascinating a sampling of the best selections scene, but you’ll also enjoy fine of the day, you can order one of Bolognese cuisine as enticing as the the fixed-price menus, available people-watching; see p. 120. In the with or without wine. The menu 1950s, Via Veneto was the place to reflects the agrarian bounty of be for Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sina- Italy, with ample choices for tra, and other Hollywood types. everyone: meat eaters, fish Today the celebs are long gone, and fanciers, and vegetarians. See p. Via Veneto is more about over- 101. priced tourist traps than genuine • Best in the Jewish Ghetto: For hip. But lots of folks like to stroll centuries, Romans have flocked to this strip anyway, or enjoy the pass- the Jewish Ghetto to sample ing parade from a table at the Caffé Jerusalem artichokes. No one pre- de Paris, Via Vittorio Veneto 90 pares them better than Piperno, (& 06-4815631). See p. 224. Via Monte de’ Cenci 9 (& 06- • Best for a Cappuccino with a 68806629), which serves savory View: The best-located cafe in (though nonkosher) Roman food. Rome is Di Rienzo, Piazza della Of course, you can order more Rotonda 8–9 (& 06-6869097), than these deep-fried artichokes which stands directly on Piazza here. A full array of delights della Rotonda, fronting the Pan- includes everything from stuffed theon. On a summer night, there’s squash blossoms to succulent pas- no better place to be than “the liv- tas. See p. 110. ing room” of Rome, as the square • Best Alfresco Dining: In Traste- before you has been dubbed, as vere, Piazza Santa Maria comes you sit and slowly sip your cap- alive at night. If you reserve a side- puccino. See p. 226. walk table at Sabatini, Piazza • Best Picnic Fare: When the Santa Maria in Trastevere 13 weather is cool and the day is (& 06-5812026), you’ll have a sunny, it’s time for an alfresco view of all the action, including meal, and there’s no better place to the floodlit golden mosaics of the purchase the makings of a picnic church on the piazza, Santa Maria than the Campo de’ Fiori open- in Trastevere. At the next table air market, between Corso Vitto- you’re likely to see . . . well, just rio Emanuele II and the Tiber. about anybody (on our most The luscious produce of Lazio is recent visit, Roman Polanski). In on display here right in the heart addition to the view, you can of the old city. If you wish, you 05_572709 ch01.qxd 11/18/04 3:00 PM Page 15

BEST DINING BETS 15

can purchase vegetables already • Best for Celebrity-Spotting: A chopped and ready to be dropped chic choice is Café Riccioli, into the minestrone pot. There are Piazza delle Coppelle 10A (& 06- also several excellent delicatessen 68210313), where you’ll often shops on the square. Visit one of spot models and other beautiful the shops selling freshly baked people having a light dinner of Roman bread, pick up a bottle of sashimi. See p. 113. wine and a companion—and off you go. See p. 214.