GUIDE Caminhos de Santiago e Ribatejo

Central Eastern Way Way

Alentejo e Ribatejo www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com TECHNICAL FILE

© Entidade Regional de Turismo do Alentejo e Ribatejo, 2019

Texts: Guess What – Comunicação Lda., Paulo Almeida Fernandes, Paulo Cavaleiro Proofreading: Mariana Vaz-Freire Photography: Miguel Proença, Paulo Cavaleiro Technical Consultancy: Upstream – Valorização do Território, Lda. Edition, graphic conception and pagination: Guess What – Comunicação Lda., Paulo Medeiros Printing and finishing: Ondagrafe – Artes Gráficas, Lda. Circulation: 2.500 copies

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, etc.) without the prior written permission of Entidade Regional de Turismo do Alentejo e Ribatejo. www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt António Ceia da Silva | President of the Regional Tourism Board of Alentejo and Ribatejo

When we embarked on defining with our kin that, more than a the itineraries for the Caminhos pilgrimage, is an unforgettable de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo, milestone in our lives. we believed that rather than just developing a product, we were You are warmly invited to join creating a brand with heart and us on this journey through the soul that embraces an entire Caminhos de Santiago . e Ribatejo!

I myself have already made the In esteemed Pilgrim friendship. journey to Santiago de Com- Ceia da Silva postela on foot, a unique, larger than life experience that belongs to the collective imagination, an inter generational bonding

3 Index

The 6 Alentejo and Ribatejo 10 Caminhos de Santiago − Alentejo e Ribatejo 12 Before leaving 24 Central Way 29 Stage 1 − Ameixial () > Santa Cruz 31 Stage 2 − Santa Cruz > Almodôvar 35 Stage 3 − Almodôvar > 39 Stage 4 − Castro Verde > Messejana 43 Stage 5 − Messejana > Fornalhas Velhas 47 Stage 6 − Fornalhas Velhas > São Domingos 51 Stage 7 − São Domingos > Santiago do Cacém 55 Stage 8 − Santiago do Cacém > Roncão 59 Stage 9 − Roncão > Grândola 63 Stage 10 − Grândola > Alcácer do Sal 67 Stage 11 − Alcácer do Sal > Casebres 71 Stage 12 − Casebres > Vendas Novas 75 Stage 13 − Vendas Novas > Branca 79 Stage 14 − Branca > Santo Estêvão 83 Stage 15 − Santo Estêvão > Samora Correia > Benavente 87 Stage 16 − Benavente > Muge 91 Stage 17 − Muge > Santarém 95 Stage 18 − Santarém > Golegã 99 Stage 19 − Golegã > Tomar (Center) 103 Central Way − via 107 Stage 1 − Vila Franca de Xira (Lisboa) > Azambuja 109 Stage 2 − Azambuja > Santarém 113

Eastern Way 117 Stage 1 − Alcoutim (Algarve) > Mesquita 119 Stage 2 − Mesquita > Mértola 123 Stage 3 − Mértola > Amendoeira da Serra 127 Stage 4 − Amendoeira da Serra > Cabeça Gorda 131 Stage 5 − Cabeça Gorda > Beja 135 Stage 6 − Beja > Cuba 139 Stage 7 − Cuba > Alvito > Viana do Alentejo 143 Stage 8 − Viana do Alentejo > Évora 147 Stage 9 − Évora > São Miguel de Machede 151 Stage 10 − São Miguel de Machede > Evoramonte 155 Stage 11 − Evoramonte > 159 Stage 12 − Estremoz > Sousel 163 Stage 13 − Sousel > Fronteira 167 Stage 14 − Fronteira > Cabeço de Vide 171 Stage 15 − Cabeço de Vide > Alter do Chão 175 Stage 16 − Alter do Chão > Crato 179 Stage 17 − Crato > Alpalhão 183 Stage 18 − Alpalhão > Nisa 187 Stage 19 − Nisa > Vila Velha de Ródão (Center) 191 Santiago Fighting the , main | Santiago do Cacém

The Order of Santiago conquered Western European kingdoms The Order much of the present Tagus across the . In river’s southern Portuguese the , the of Santiago territory, and was essential in the Orders of the Templars and settlement and socioeconomic Hospitaller Knightswere already planning of Alentejo and active, to whom the kings D. Algarve’s swaths during the Afonso Henriques and D. Sancho . I had entrusted the defence of important areas of the country's The origins of a peninsular center. The Order of Santiago was military religious order the last to be established, but The Order was born of the quickly supplanted the others in crusading fervour that gripped the scale, dynamism and relevance. medieval imagination, buoyed by The Order wasn’t founded with the conquest of Jerusalem in 1099 that name. It originated among and other successful campaigns the friars of Cáceres, consisting in the Holy Land. In the 12th of thirteen warrior-priests who century, Muslim strongholds came together in the second half were also being conquered by of the 12th century whom King

6 | The Order of Santiago Sacred Art Museum | Grândola Santiago church | Alcácer do Sal

Fernando II of Leon recognised as The Order of Santiago third time from 1482 onwards, a militia in 1170. Some time after, in Portugal a moment when ‘land-taking’ probably in common accord with In Portugal, the oldest documents was a thing of the past and a the archbishop of Santiago de on the Order of Santiago date closer proximity to the court was Compostela, or because Santiago back to 1172, the year in which it advisable. (Saint James) the Apostle was the inherited the territory of Arruda The military influence of the Kingdom of ’s patron, the dos Vinhos from King D. Afonso Spatharii dominated the first half friars then adopted the name Henriques. In a short space of of the 13th century. After having Order of Santiago. The uniquely time, it went south of the Tagus conquered the important port of peninsular scope of the Order river to actively participate in the Alcácer do Sal (the main shore was evident in its statutes: to kingdom’s war efforts. The Order base for the Muslim fleet), the protect not only the southern settled in the castle of Palmela in Order of Santiago was entrusted borders of the Iberian Peninsula’s 1186, but the Islamic reconquest with conquering practically Christian kingdoms, but also the of 1191 interrupted the the entire south of what today pilgrims who came to Santiago de construction of a convent there. is mainland Portugal, under Compostela cathedral to worship The town once again became the command of future Grand the apostle’s tomb. Its seat was the Portuguese Santiagan capital Master D. Paio Peres Correia. established in Uclès (Cuenca) until Alcácer do Sal was finally In just two decades, the Order from 1174 onwards. conquered in 1217, and for a of Santiago became the most

The Order of Santiago | 7 tiles panel – main church of Samora Correia | Benavente

powerful landowner of the de Mascarenhas is best-known. of war and religion, works of kingdom, holding sway over a In the first half half of the 16th art sponsored by high-ranking territory so vast it extended from century, he was patron for noblemen of the Spatharios Samora Correia to , and the construction of a grand hierarchy, structural traces on from Almada to Aljezur. altarpiece for the main church local toponyms or simple and To provide support for its (originally the mosque) which discreet landmarks in properties. manoeuvres in the south, the celebrated the life and legend of Given the military nature of the Order’s seat moved to Alcácer the Apostle Santiago. campaigns in the Alentejo and do Sal and then Mértola. The In the south of the country, Algarve, many artistic commis- true capital was Alcácer do Sal, the vast quantity of churches sions portrayed Santiago as a where the Spatharii built a grand dedicated to Santiago came Christian warrior on horseback, convent, known in medieval about thanks to the conquests showing no mercy to a huddle literature as the ‘meysom d and administration of the Order of terrified foes, which became alcaçar’, next to the castle and of Santiago, which also left many known as the religious iconog- mother church. In Mértola, further traces such as palaces of raphy of Santiago Matamouros where the Portuguese ancillary’s its former Commanders, castles (Saint James the Moor-slayer). In seat was established between preserving the memory of the truth, the Order never imposed 1248 and 1482, the architectural knights who conquered them, a single form of representation legacy of commander D. João the tombs of celebrated men and Santiago continued to fre-

8 | The Ordem of Santiago Keep of Beja Castle

quently be represented as a pil- sic constituent of the adminis- The cross of the Order grim and apostle, with the south trative land management of the of Santiago of the country revealing the Order of Santiago, headed by a The cross used by the friars of most complete narratives on its main castle. For the same rea- Santiago is red and has two life in azulejo (tile) panel. son, the commanders were also sidebars in the shape of fleur- the alcaldes of these fortresses. de-lys, while the vertical tail Management and integra- The Order of Santiago in Portugal resembles a sword. The banner tion into the crown’s estate was runned by the grand master was white and, besides the The Order was presided over by of Uclès until 1452, the year in cross, it depicted scallop shells, a grand master, elected by 13 which the Portuguese ancillary the emblematic symbol of the knights, in memory of the 12th gained autonomy from its Castil- Jacobean pilgrims. century founding members. ian counterpart. During the reign Religious discipline was upheld of the King D. João III, from 1551 by a superior religious officer(pri- onwards, the Order was integrat- or-mor), while the management ed into the crown’s estate and of the commendations was the was subsequently managed by responsibility of a chief knight the Portuguese monarchy. commander (comendador-mor). The commendation was the ba-

The Order of Santiago | 9 View over the Tagus from Portas do Sol | Santarém

The Caminhos de Santiago where the sun’s golden glow blurs Alentejo Alentejo e Ribatejo cross two with the endless plains, dappled very distinct territories: different with battlements of whitewashed and in their customs and traditions, dwellings. It’s a land of quietude, in the way their peoples live, in marking the rhythm of its peoples, Ribatejo the colours of their landscapes and the authenticity of its still- and the experiences they offer. intact regional identity. With an Enjoy all their Although they may differ, they unrivalled natural patrimony intimate charms share a distinctive genuineness and terrain, it has embraced a at Nature’s pace. that makes them unique and rural way of life, which grants its differentiates them from alllandscapes distinct and unique others that help define the characteristics. Once known as country’s borders. To travel these the country’s “barn”, it is Portugal’s Caminhos is to enjoy all their largest region, a name that not charms at nature’s pace. only symbolises its landscapes, but also an ancient way of living. The Golden Plains Its uses are also ancestral, from The Alentejo’s landscape which traditions have arisen, to stretches as far as the eye can see, be savoured at the table, heard

10 | Alentejo and Ribatejo Embroidery and Clay Museum | Nisa

View of Alter Pedroso | Alter do Chão

in the Cante Alentejano, seen (River’s Edge), for having the Tagus and festivals. In the Ribatejo in its monuments, its ceramics river as its neighbour, the river version it is danced to the sound and tapestries, and celebrated in that crosses and weaves through, of accordions, fifes, mouthorgans, festivals and religious processions. making its lands fertile and a harmoniums and clarinets. The All of which can be taken home in constant source of inspiration. figure of the‘Campino’ (cattle the form of outstanding products: Besides the marshes there are helder) reigned, dressed in a the richness of the olive grove moorlands, rice fields that the red waistcoat and green cap. transformed into exceptional Tagus bathes more thoroughly, Its cultural heritage includes olive oils, the richness of the and the neighborhoods, with their the azulejo tile work, panels of pastries that satisfy the gluttony, golden grains. The lushness of the vibrant colour that represent five the honey, the smoked ham… meadows provide nourishment centuries of history and adorn for livestock and a stage for the both exteriors and interiors; the The green of the ‘Lezírias’ ‘merry dance’ of herds of wild rustic bread, the tomato and The plains become lezírias - bulls and horses. A region with a the rice, ingredients of a unique marshlands of the Ribatejo, culture marked by its traditional cuisine, the art of basketry and expanses of green where once costume and by its dances, such the coopers’ woodworking, reigned. A region that many as the fandango, already popular which symbolise the union still refer to as ‘Beira do Tejo’ (Banks on the 18th century among between Man and Nature. of the Tagus) or ‘Borda d’Água’ nobles and commoners in fairs

Alentejo and Ribatejo | 11 Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Embark on a journey through a land of unique peoples, customs and landscapes.

Santo Antão Church | Évora

THE CENTRAL WAY taking part are unable to resist cultural expressions that are part the enchantments revealed of the social and cultural history Journeying on the Caminhos along the way. More than a of the communities found in the de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo journey, it is to experience Alentejo and Ribatejo. These can is a promise of adventure, of landscapes which, though manifest themselves as unexpected discoveries, of a different, share the fact of flavours, the traditions and the history preserved in people’s being unique, reverberating like life experiences from which memories, a story that unfurls echoes in our memory. they arose, or the handicrafts, at every stop. Journeying on the To experience the Caminhos the festivals and religious Ways is to relive that history in de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo processions, art and customs. the traces that the passing of is more than a journey, it is It is a rich heritage, at once time failed to erase, it is making an experience like no other, diverse and authentic, that the the traveller a witness to a which marks us, and which we visitor encounters on these narrative revealed in its tangible treasure. One we will want to Ways, a journey forged on the and intangible heritage, in its repeat. contact with manifestations lands, towns and curiosities, its of a symbolic value that is cuisine, peoples and customs, Flavours and traditions recognised worldwide, which those that have gone and those When we talk about Intangible grants us an experience both that continue to be, and who by Cultural Heritage, we mean the stimulating and memorable.

12 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Mértola

Beja Regional Museum

The Alentejo and Ribatejo’s melancholic harmony, drawing Used to warn us of approaching intangible cultural heritage in all those who listen. cattle, this rural melody refuses has on four separate occasions Found across almost the entire to be silenced by the brute been recognised by UNESCO, Alentejo, this art form is most force of modernity, intent on which included them on a typical of the districts of rendering it obsolete. comprehensive list of Intangible and Beja. In the Ribatejo, the beating Cultural Heritage of Humanity, heart of the art of falconry is that travellers can see for From cowbells to falconry found in Salvaterra de Magos, themselves by taking these Ways. Most common in the district taking us back to a time when Such as ‘Cante Alentejano’, the of Alcáçovas in Viana do the Portuguese royal family traditional Alentejo song, which Alentejo, cowbells are still used to spend long periods needs no introduction. A kind of being produced, or more hunting there. musical expression which, more accurately manufactured, an Opening onto the natural than simply music, is a sharing of art UNESCO felt deserving habitat of the Tejo estuary, here feelings, from nostalgic saudade of the status of intangible we now find an educational and (missing something or someone) heritage, in recognition of the environmental interpretation to love, where irony and precariousness and challenges centre, besides the ‘river humour are also present, and it faces to keep going versus museum’ Cais da Vala. where voices come together in encroaching globalisation. Hewn from clay, the figurative

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 13 Professor Joaquim Vermelho Municipal Museum, Estremoz

Santiago Church | Alcácer do Sal Marvão

ceramics of Estremoz also Alentejo and Ribatejo is rich. which is 500 years old, the earned the recognition of Rich in things to do, in music procession of the Romaria a UNESCO first as nationaland in local colour. The streets Nossa Senhora da Graça in Nisa, intangible cultural heritage and spruced up and decorated for or the Golegã Horse Fair that subsequently of Humanity. A the occasion, stages readied to goes back to the 16th century. technique that stretches back welcome the music that plays more than 300 years, many are such an integral part, the Ways Castles, Museums the handmade clay figures to grant visitors an opportunity and a Wealth of Nature have emerged from the kiln to to enjoy festive traditions that More than just rest stops, the be colourfully decorated, and so astonish for their sheer diversity different stages of the Caminhos it continues today. We can see and scale, and which involve and de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo them for ourselves in Estremoz, mobilise entire communities, are opportunities to discover either at the Municipal Museum through traditional dances towns and cities, the secrets they or at the shops and ateliers that starting with the fandangos of hide, the architecture, museums sell them. the Ribatejo and Alentejo, and and their history. At each stop, the characteristic skirts and take the opportunity to visit its Festivals, Fairs puppetry of the Alentejo. Take points of interest. The dilemma is and Processions for example the Feira de São which to choose. The festive calendar of the João (St John Festival) in Évora,

14 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Santa Cruz, Almodôvar Marvão

Alcácer do Sal

No Alentejo specimens. The Way continues, passing The Central Way passes through In the town, the Museum through Alcácer do Sal, which Santa Cruz, where the Parish of Southern Writing (Escrita has one of the most important Church, built in the 16th do Sudoeste) reveals to us examples of Renaissance century, is home to a rather the immense archaeological architecture in the country: unusual icon of in the richness Capela das Onze Mil Virgens (the Garden, where one can see of the district and, in particular, Chapel of the Eleven Thousand represented the sweat turning the singular destiny of a people Virgins). In white marble, with into blood. Further ahead, in the which invented its own written a dome covered in translucent medieval town of Almodôvar, language between the 7th and jasper that captures the sun’s the riverine landscape invites 5th centuries BC. rays, colour bathes the sculpted us to savour the crystal-clear Because the Ways to Santiago forms, attributed to António waters of Ribeira do Vascão, are much more than simply Rodrigues, an architect during stream located within the hiking trips, the dam of the reign of King D. Sebastião, Special Protected Area of the Campilhas, built in 1954 in who was influenced by the valley, dotted with Santiago de Cacém, offers the Italian master Michelangelo. watermills and weirs. If you pay chance to try out all kinds of A city where one can also close attention, with a little luck non-motorised water sports and learn about the Lenda da you may spot a few rare wildlife recreational fishing. Costureirinha (Legend of the

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 15 Castro Verde Windmill Santiago do Cacém Municipal Museum

Bones Chapel | Évora

Little Seamstress), told over species that typically make This is a perfect example of a much of the Baixo (Low) their home in such habitats. hall church with three and Alentejo region, where many are The alluvial valleys that open rib-vaulted ceilings illuminated those who claim to have heard onto the Tagus, Sorraia and by six rectangular windows. the sound of a sewing machine Almansor rivers are like genuine Within is found the shallow that never stops. According to islands interspersed among grave of Nuno Velho Pereira, one legend it is seamstress who the characteristic dryness of of the most significant figures sews for all eternity, after having the highlands. The shore lands of the period of Portuguese made a wedding dress for her that embraces the Tagus and imperial expansion, a captain daughter who died before the all waterlogged areas offer far of India and a patron of the marriage. greater biodiversity, where almshouses of the Santa Casa da European migrating waterfowl Misericórdia. There one can also Journeying through and others from southern see a pipe organ from 1818 that Ribatejo climes can be spotted, such as was restored in 2008. For nature lovers, the journey the Black-winged stilt and reed It is here in the Ribatejan capital through Benavente is a chance warbler. that the gateway of Porta de to do some serious birdwatching In Santarém, Misericórdia Santiago is found, the main and in the meadow and wheat church, built in the mid-16th entrance to Santarém castle, fields see scarcer, less common century (1559) is worth a visit. where one can see a coat of

16 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Nossa Senhora d'Aires Sanctuary | Viana do Alentejo Santa Cruz Parish Church | Pombalinho

Escaroupim | Muge Ancient Castle of Messejana

arms of the Fernandinos of than being satisfied with the land of knights and their steeds, Portugal, as well as the Portas result, the king was sorely the Equuspolis Cultural Centre do Sol, nowadays a panoramic displeased, considering the with its equestrian library is viewpoint built on city walls public money poorly spent. And worth a look, as is the Fórum with three turrets. so, at the tower’s summit on Manuel Fernandes or the Mestre The Ways, just like history itself, the structure supporting Martins Correia Municipal are full of tales that are yet to the bell, the King ordered 8 Museum. be confirmed and since became ‘cabaças’, or gourds, to be legend, such as that of Torre placed there, symbolising the das Cabaças tower, which tells heads of the 8 men responsible THE EASTERN WAY that during the reign of King for its construction. D. Manuel, since Santarém As the Central Way draws to a History is also written was lacking a clock tower, the close, we arrive to Golegã, a on buildings monarch was asked to make this place to stop and rest ever since Not far from where we set off, a reality. A sum was donated to the nation’s early days, where the Eastern Way takes us to pay for its construction, which once there was an inn belonging Mértola, eight local councilmen were to a woman from Galicia, known where the castle is practically a nominated to ‘oversee’. But as Venda Galega, which later mustsee. once it was complete, rather gave its name to the town. A Founded on far more ancient

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 17 Roman bridge | Almodôvar

Palafitte port of Carrasqueira | Alcácer do Sal

structures, it was built in presence. in the 17th century but which Christian times, its keep going Through its Azulejo pannels, still has traces of the up in 1292 by order of Dom a legacy of five centuries of period, such as the battlements João Fernandes, Master of tile painting that also tells the of the south wing. With a single the Order of Santiago. It is an history of the city, Beja offers us , the domed roof greets archaeologically rich site and a flashes of colour, indoors and us with magnificent frescos, prime location to look over the out. painted with sacred and profane city and its surroundings. A homage to the art of working decorative motifs. Further ahead, Beja reveals in clay awaits the visitor in Évora, Évora has a lot to offer its visitors, itself to be a wonderful place in the form of an actual village such as Praça do Giraldo square, to observe nature, above all the going by the name of Aldeia da baptised in homage to Geraldo birdlife, its county lines serving Terra (Earth Village), considered Geraldes the Fearless, to whom as the place of ‘pilgrimage’ for by many as the funniest in the reconquest in 1165 of Évora about two hundred species. The Portugal. from the Moors is attributed. opportunities for birdwatching This 3D cartoon strip is a marvel Baptised the ‘white city’ of the are substantial, species such as of well-observed, irreverent Alentejo, Estremoz has its own the osprey, scrub robin or black- good humour. 16th century church, the Igreja bellied sandgrouse gracing Not to be missed is Igreja de São de Santiago, which is known to the most attentive with their Tiago (St James Church), rebuilt have existed since the reign of

18 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Cante Alentejano (UNESCO) Santa Maria da Alcáçova Church | Santarém

The Almendres Cromlech | Évora Frayões Metello House | Grândola

D. Afonso III (1245-1279, and Dating from 1356, this As we come to the end of the celebrated for its bell tower, monument consists of three Eastern Way, there’s still time to triangular marble gable with a separate structures: the visit Nisa, with its 17th century cross, the 18th century picture church-fort in the Gothic style, pillory, which looks today much window and over the doorway, a Gothic castellated palace and as it did then; the shrine of the cross of the Order of Aviz. convent priories. Meanwhile Ermida de Nossa Senhora da The medieval castle in the Crato, influenced in daysGraça, famous for its religious centre of town stands out for of yore by the presence of procession which takes places its keep that is 27 metres high, Megalithic shepherds and their every Easter, or the traditional one of the best preserved in habits and culture, also reveals red clay ceramics, pitchers and the whole country. In 1336, this traces of other stories in its jars decorated with small white became the last resting place of , or antas. As a matter stone flower motifs. Queen Santa Isabel, who died in of fact, in this municipality her chambers there. alone over 70 have been Along the Tagus river In Crato, Mosteiro de Flor da documented, most prominent When leaving on the Rosa monastery is one of the of all being the dolmens found Central Way, we embark passing most original and intriguing at Anta do Tapadão and Anta through Vila Nova da Rainha, the Gothic buildings in the country, do Crato, designated national setting chosen for the wedding now home to a Pousada hotel. monuments. of the royals D. Nuno Álvares

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 19 Wayside cross in Viana do Alentejo castle Sulfúrea Thermal Baths | Cabeço de Vide

São Miguel de Machede

Pereira with D. Leonor de Alvim, wild ducks, choughs and many implies another journey, that of celebrated on 15 August 1376. other animals. The Way also the taste buds. Even so, it is by Further ahead, in the Ribatejo passes through Cartaxo which using words that we shall try to town of Azambuja stands the has been, throughout history, explain the best these regions church of the brotherhood of an important waypoint to the have to offer. Senhor Jesus da Misericórdia interior of the country, either de Azambuja, designated a by river (the Tagus) or land, and Bread and wine on the monument of national interest. opens onto the magnificent table According to history, it was at plateau of Santarém. Traditionally, bread and wine the turn of the 18th century that are essential on a Portuguese the confreres of Espírito Santo REGIONAL CUISINE table. And whether we take the (Holy Spirit) founded there a The culinary richness of the Central or Eastern Ways, good brotherhood and medieval Alentejo and Ribatejo needs wines and wonderful breads hospice, with the aim of helping no introduction. Here, words are guaranteed wherever the pilgrims, passers-by and the cannot do justice to the feast traveller goes in the Alentejo, poor patients. Or we can that awaits, failing to adequately in what is one of the main contemplate the small islands express the emotions it inspires winemaking regions in the emerging from the river, which in us. Our passage through country. The combination of are home to eagles, egrets, these ports of call always different grapes, rooted in the

20 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo warm earth, has resulted in a in the ingredients, harvested the table, becomes the main variety of wines, from whites from a region which has long attraction in dishes such as to reds, that make it difficult to enchanted us with its flavours, Açorda à Alentejana and the take your pick. So, there’s no and has resulted in a knowledge Migas, and is the perfect better reason to taste it, raise passed from generation companion for the Sopa de a glass and make a toast that is to generation, constantly Cação (dogfish soup),Sopa celebrated as far as the Ribatejo, reinventing itself without ever de Tomate or the Ensopado a land of wines whose origins are losing its identity. de Borrego (lamb stew). Also lost in time and are inextricably All begins with the appetisers, on the menu is the lamb or linked to the nation’s identity. the fresh, cured goat and sheep pork Sarapatel, partridge or Thanks to a diverse range of cheeses with an unmistakable freshwater fish, from lamprey to soils and climates, wich ends up flavour and smell; the Alentejo carp, grilled or fried, and always being reflected inside the bottle, presunto (ham), the paio do seasoned with aromatic spices the god’s nectar lives up to its cachaço (pork neck sausage), redolent of the smells of the promise. the farinheira (a sausage with Alentejo. flour and spices),linguiça , As for the Ribatejo, the menu is On a full stomach morçela and painho… no less impressive or easier to Simplicity is the key to the But that is just for starters. choose from. Alentejo cuisine. It is reflected The bread, which never leaves Let’s begin with the appetisers,

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 21 the barbecued pork chouriço, boiled potatoes. Rala and Sericaia of the Alentejo. the winecured sausages, the Whoever passes through the Closer to the coast, menus give black pudding (morcela) and Alentejo or the Ribatejo knows off a tang of the sea thanks farinheira, the cured goat, it’s also bound to be a sweet to the Açorda de Marisco (a sheep and cow-milk cheeses experience. The reason for this seafood bread stew), Feijoada that tantalise the taste buds. is the honey, varying from place de Búzios (bean stew with Following we have Sopa da to place but always sweet, and a whelks) or Mariscos (shellfish), Pedra (’Stone’ soup, but these repertoire of cake making across and the Arroz de Lapas (rice with days served without), Feijão both regions inherited from the goose barnacles), and lest we com Couves (bean stew with nuns. forget, Salada de Choco or Ovas cabbage) and also the Sopa Eggs, sugar and almonds are (cuttlefish or roe salad) and de Peixe, or fish soup. Next is blended together in perfect Polvo à Pescador - freshly-fished the Magusto com Bacalhau harmony to whet the appetite, octopus. Assado (oven-roasted cod with in Ribatejo cakes and pastries cornbread mash), the mullet such as the Queijinhos do of the Fataça na Telha, eel à Céu, Pão de Ló, Sopa Dourada, Ribatejana, the roast lamb, fava Manjar Celeste or Pampilhos or beans with chouriço or the Iscas the Pastéis de Santa Clara, Bolo com Elas, strips of fried liver with Podre, Tibornas Doces, Pão de

22 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo

Before leaving prepare your trip thoroughly

The Caminhos do Alentejo e Ribatejo are about 30 days away from Santiago de Compostela, which is why you need to be physically prepared for a challenging itinerary. Making the journey is always a pleasant surprise, but it is vital to be in good shape to ensure your days are comfortable, and to awaken the spirit to a more absorbing experience.

Plan the distance you intend to cover each day, studying the Guide and any other information that may be available on the Internet. Familiarise yourself with where assistance is available, the places with cafés and restaurants, and ensure accommodation at the start and end of each stage is available.

It is recommended to do some Pack only the essentials. journey’s stages. On the Ways, training before embarking The first days of your trek will it is important to ration water on this journey, so you are soon reveal how superfluous carefully, for many stages do absolutely clear about your certain items are. As a rule, not have any assistance points physical capacities. Long stages try to ensure your backpack and take place under adverse impact the following days and weighs no more than 10% of high temperatures. insufficient physical preparation your body weight and comes can to muscular pain with handy compartments: Make an informed decision as which will only get worse as one for documents, credit/ to which time of year suits the body is subjected to further debit card and phone charger; you best for making your exertion. another for a first aid kit; a third pilgrimage. To avoid the heat for some food. Don’t forget to of the south and interior of Choose walking shoes you take a waterproof raincoat that Portugal, the months of March, have already worn in, not too fits over your backpack and April, May, September and tight and which your feet are flip-flops for showering if you October are advised, but bear used to wearing. You can only intend to stay in hostels. Also in mind that some months make the journey if you have essential is a water container see more rain than others, the healthy feet. suitable for the difficulty of the closer you get to Compostela.

24 | Before leaving CODE OF CONDUCT

All who take part in the the conservation of flora, • Be careful around livestock. Caminhos de Santiago fauna and vegetation; Although they are docile, Alentejo and Ribatejo should they do not like it when • Avoid making unnecessary bear the following code strangers approach their noise; of conduct in mind. young. • Observe wildlife at a safe A significant part of the distance; recommended itinerary routes cross private • Do not damage or collect properties, to which their samples of plants or rocks; On urban parts of the journey, owners have permitted the signs are specifically meant access. For this reason: • Do not drop litter and leave for pedestrians. Other means of no trace behind you. The transport such as bicycles, should • Respect private property; itineraries permit interaction respect official traffic signage. with agrosystems where • Leave all gates as you farming, fishing or forest found them. If they were activities take place, and closed, make sure you have are important to preserve. closed them properly; The definitive tracings of many Carelessness or a failure stages may have undergone • Only follow the marked to follow recommended changes after the publication of ways; actions may have serious this roadmap. Before leaving, it consequences. • Be polite with locals. All is essential that you check the routes cross areas that are • Don’t light fires and think correct itinerary on the site www. relatively environmentally twice before discarding caminhosdesantiagoalentejo sensitive, namely as regards cigarette butts. ribatejo.pt

CONTACTS: www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt

Before leaving | 25 Credencial do Peregrino/ Posto de Turismo/Tourism Barco/Boat/Barca/Bateau/Schiff Pilgrim Passport /Certificat du Office/Oficina de Turismo/ Pélerin/Pilgerausweis Office du Tourisme/ Comboio/Train/Tren/Train/Zug 1x Tourismusbüro Fácil/Easy/Fácil/Facile/Leicht Assistência Bikes/Bike Repair/ Correios/Post Office/Oficina Réparation Vélo/Fahrrad 5x Difícil/Hard/Difícil/Difficile/ de Correos/Bureau de Poste/ Reparatur Schwierig Postamt

Albergue/Hostel/Albergue/ Centro de Saúde-Hospital/ Miradouros-Paisagem/ Auberge/Hostel Health Center-Hospital/Centro Lookouts-Scenery/Mirador- de Salud-Hospital/Centre Paisaje/Belvédère-Paysage/ Hotel Médical-Hôpital/Ärztezentrum- Aussichtspunkt-Landschaft Turismo Rural/Rural B&B/ Krankenhaus Biodiversidade-Natureza/ Turismo Rural/Tourisme Rural/ Farmácia/Pharmacy/Farmácia/ Biodiversity-Nature/ Agrotourismus Pharmacie/Apoteke Biodiversidad-Naturaleza/ Camping Pousada da Balneário Público/Public Biodiversité-Nature/ Juventude/ Camping Youth Shower/Duchas Públicas/ Biodiversität-Natur Hostel/Camping Albergue Douches Publiques/Öffentliche Juvenil/Camping Auberge Dusche Vinicultura-Adegas/Viticulture- de Jeunesse/Camping Jugendherberge Museu/Museum/Museo/ Wineries/Vinicultura-Bodega/ Musée/Museum Viticulture-Cave/Weinbau- Restauração/Restaurante/ Weinkellerei Restaurant Igreja/Church/Iglesia/Église/ Kirche Praias Fluviais-Piscinas/Fluvial Supermercado/Supermarket/ Beaches-Swimming Pools/ Supermercado/Supermarché/ Edifícios Histórico-Arqueologia/ Supermarkt Historical Building-Archiology/ Playa de Río-Piscina/Plage Edificio Histórico-Arqueología/ Fluviale-Piscine/flussstrände- Café/Coffee Shop/Cafetería/ Monument Historique- Schwimmbad Café/Café Archéologie/historische Gebäude-Archäologie Entidades Públicas/Public Banco-ATM/Bank-Cash Entities/Organismo Público/ Dispenser/Banco-Cajero Taxi automático/Banque-Guichet Organisme Public/öffentliche Automatique/Geldautomat Autocarro/Bus/Autobus ämter

- 112 - 117 www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com

26 | Before leaving The Itineraries Two Paths to take full of countless pleasant surprises.

Alentejo e Ribatejo

Central Path Central Path via Tagus Eastern Path Raia's Path 440 km 40 km 383 km 310 km Stages Stages Stages Stages (Municipalities)*

. 1 Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1. Alverca (Lisboa) Azambuja . 1 Alcoutim (Algarve) Mesquita . 1 Mértola Serpa 2. Santa Cruz Almodôvar 2. Azambuja Santarém 2. Mesquita Mértola 2. Serpa Moura 3. Almodôvar Castro Verde 3. Mértola Amendoeira da Serra 3. Moura Mourão 4. Castro Verde Messejana 4. Amendoeira da Serra Cabeça Gorda 4. Mourão Reguengos de Monsaraz 5. Messejana Fornalhas Velhas Central Path 5. Cabeça Gorda Beja 5. Reguengos de Monsaraz Alandroal 6. Fornalhas Velhas São Domingos via Atlantic 6. Beja Cuba 6. Alandroal Vila Viçosa 7. São Domingos Santiago do Cacém 110 km 7. Cuba Alvito Viana do Alentejo 7. Vila Viçosa 8. Santiago do Cacém Roncão Stages* 8. Viana do Alentejo Évora 8. Elvas Campo Maior 9. Roncão Grândola 9. Évora São Miguel de Machede 9. Campo Maior Arronches 1. Castro Verde 10. Grândola Alcácer do Sal 10. São Miguel de Machede Evoramonte 10. Arronches Portalegre 2. Ourique Cercal 11. Alcácer do Sal Casebres 11. Evoramonte Estremoz 11. Portalegre Marvão 3. Cercal Santigo do Cacém 12. Casebres Vendas Novas 12. Estremoz Sousel 12. Marvão Castelo de Vide 13. Vendas Novas Branca * Digital format only. 13. Sousel Fronteira 13. Castelo de Vide Alpalhão 14. Branca Santo Estêvão 14. Fronteira Cabeço de Vide * Digital format only. 15. Sto Estêvão Samora Correia 15. Cabeço de Vide Alter do Chão Benavente 16. Alter do Chão Crato 16. Benavente Muge 17. Crato Alpalhão 17. Muge Santarém 18. Alpalhão Nisa 18. Santarém Golegã 19. Nisa Vila Velha de Rodão (Center) 19. Golegã Tomar (Center)

www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com COIMBRA

CASTELO BRANCO

Alentejo e Ribatejo VILA VELHA DE RODÃO TOMAR

NISA

CASTELO DE VIDE

GOLEGÃ ALPALHÃO MARVÃO

PORTALEGRE CRATO SANTARÉM ALMEIRIM ALTER DO CHÃO

CARTAXO CABEÇO DE VIDE MUGE AZAMBUJA ARRONCHES SALVATERRA DE MAGOS FRONTEIRA CORUCHE BENAVENTE SOUSEL CAMPO MAIOR

VILA FRANCA SAMORA DE XIRA CORREIA BRANCA ESTREMOZ SANTO ELVAS ESTEVÃO LISBOA EVORAMONTE

VENDAS NOVAS MONTEMOR-O-NOVO SÃO MIGUEL DE MACHEDE VILA VIÇOSA

ÉVORA ALANDROAL CASEBRES

REGUENGOS ALCÁCER DO SAL DE MONSARAZ

VIANA DO MOURÃO ALENTEJO

ALVITO GRÂNDOLA CUBA

RONCÃO MOURA SANTIAGO DO CACÉM BEJA

SINES SÃO DOMINGOS CABEÇA SERPA GORDA MESSEJANA PORTO COVO FORNALHAS VELHAS AMENDOEIRA DA SERRA CERCAL CASTRO VERDE MÉRTOLA OURIQUE

ODEMIRA CENTRAL PATH MESQUITA ALMODÔVAR CENTRAL PATH via Tagus CENTRAL PATH via Atlantic SANTA CRUZ EASTERN PATH ALCOUTIM RAIA’S PATH AMEIXIAL CONNECTION ALGARVE - ALENTEJO CONNECTION ALENTEJO/RIBATEJO - CENTER ALJEZUR

ROTA VICENTINA - Historical path VILA REAL DE AIRPORT SANTO ANTÓNIO TRAIN TAVIRA BUS via Lisbon

BUS via Faro and Tavira FARO CABO PILGRIM PASSPORT S. VICENTE WAYS GUIDE

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo

Central Eastern Way Way

Alentejo e Ribatejo

CENTRAL WAY stage Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1

“... the traces identified witness the transit of pilgrims through the old roman route which crosses the Serra do Caldeirão in Santa Cruz de Almodôvar; formerly one of the most used routes in the connection between Algarve and Alentejo, from where arrived, in 1249, D. Afonso III, at the head of his army, to conquer Faro and Albufeira.” (José António Falcão, “O Caminho e o Culto de Santiago no Alentejo Meridional”, in No Caminho sob as Estrelas – Santiago e a Peregrinação a Compostela, pp. 97-141)

Coming from Ameixial (Algarve), we enter Alentejo via overlying Ribeira do Vascão, a reverse route of the one once used by the Grandmaster Paio Peres Correia and his Knights of Santiago, On the way to Santa Cruz integrated in the host of D. Afonso III, to conquer central Algarve. we discover the valley of Ribeira offered to us, with the modesty do Vascão, a well-kept affluent of and satisfaction of those who Not only a strategic region for its the Guadiana river, exuberant in live from earth’s generosity, importance as a place of passage biodiversity and freshness, even which has been providing for between the Algarve and in Summer, inviting you to take their subsistence for more than Alentejo, it was also the place a desirable break on the hidden 80 years. The public fountains where the terrible Remexido set pebble beaches. of Monte Branco remind us to the last bastion of King Miguel’s refill the canteens before getting guerrilla, which followed the On the way to Monte Branco, back on the Way in the direction civil war in the mid 19th century, we witness the transition from of Santa Cruz, more exposed and leaving a trail of terror and the Mediterranean scrubland dry at that time. violence that contributed to the landscape, typical from Caldeirão, exodus of populations. to the cork and holm oak forest, Three kilometers later, “fitted” with some disperse olive groves, on the landscape in an unusual With the “weight” of History foreseeing the next wavy plain of place, the magnificent Igreja de hidden in each step of the Way, Alentejo. A small orchard gave us Santa Cruz appears, bounded to we leave behind the biggest the oranges that Mr. Diamantino the commendation of Mértola slopes of Serra do Caldeirão and and his wife, D. Maria José, by the Order of Santiago. As

Central Way | 31 mentioned by José António The civil parish of Santa Cruz, in from 2011), is the first village of Falcão, the grandeur of the the municipality of Almodôvar, the Central Way of the Caminho church, rare in rural parishes, with an area of 123,82 km2 and de Santiago Alentejo and denotes its influence as aaround 650 inhabitants (data Ribatejo. pilgrimage pole. The pilgrims’ houses were contiguous and they would also go to an alleged Church of Santa Cruz sacred fountain that flows from a The construction of this Manueline church is credited to the cliff nearby. patronage by the family of D. Fernão Mascarenhas, a noble who received the commendations of the Order of Santiago in Mértola The whole is complete with the and Almodôvar in the transition to the 16th century. The coat of ruins of the chapels of São Bento arms of Dona Violante Henriques, wife of D. Fernão Mascarenhas, and Nossa Senhora da Lapa… is stored in the main chapel, framed by a Renaissance sgraffito. and with the “hole” in a slab The church was bounded to the Order of Santiago since the nearby, which the people believe beginning, as we can see by the cross in the main façade, above to heal headaches!... the temple’s access portal, in the first keystone of the main chapel, which includes the cross with the two scallops, and the emblem of Santiago in the vestry’s washbasin. Santa Cruz

This stage ends in the village of Santa Cruz, the first village of the Central Way in Alentejo, around 15 km after exiting Ameixial. The visitor’s accommodation is provided in social infrastructures managed by the Parish Council, which should be previously contacted for proper reservation, as well as a deserved visit to the church.

and also...

Spring Festival S. John’s day in 1999, and its name came up The arrival of Spring is celebrated in Santa Cruz because in ancient times the monda (weeding in March, at the Centro Cultural de Santa Cruz − in Portuguese) was a job frequently done by the Almodôvar. women of Santa Cruz parish. Founded in June 23, 1999, this group is composed Choral Group of more than ten elements and its hymn is “Nós “As Mondadeiras” somos as mondadeiras” (“We are the mowers”). This group was born They already hold a vast repertoire, with some from the creation preference for the music linked to Almodôvar’s of the ethnographic district, to country life and Cante ao Menino (typical parade held on singing style from Alentejo).

32 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1 Distance 15 km TIPS WARNINGS Maximum altitude 421 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, ALMODÔVAR Cumulative increase 434 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, In Santa Cruz village there is no commerce Cumulative descent -534 m and a map. to supply the traveler, and the only local 20 km Duration 3h45m coffee shop (A Colmeia do Vicente, D. Paula, Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Phone No.. 965 836 403) should be contacted SANTA Santa Cruz Parish Council before the start of the day so that they can CRUZ +351 963 713 025 be prepared to serve meals to those who 500 m 15 km will spend the night there. Prior contact is São Barnabé Parish Council 400 m also essential with the parish council, Junta +351 286 463 134 300 m AMEIXIAL de (Phone No. 286 453 119, from (Algarve) Elevation 200 m SUPPORT 8.30am to 4.30pm, or President of the parish council, Mr. Eduardo Gonçalves, Phone 100 m CTT − Santa Cruz Post Office 0 m No. 963713025), so that you can arrange 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 15 km Boerderij Vakantie Portugal accommodation and any other support you Distance +351 962 344 843 may need. All the usual resources for supply Santa Cruz: Café Colmeia do Vicente and continuation of the trip can only be found The Alentejo begins at the Ribeira do Vascão Alternatively, you can arrive there in other at the end of the next stage, in Almodôvar. stream, but the traveler will probably come ways: POINTS OF INTEREST from the Algarve, specifically from the village Santa Cruz Parish Church USEFUL CONTACTS of Ameixial, where ends the previous stage of - Leaving Ameixial, where the previous stage, Vascão Stream Emergency: 112 those who took the Path from Faro. coming from Faro, ends, the route extends Forest Fires: 117 in easy trails to the valley of Ribeira do HEALTH GNR - Almodôvar Territorial Station: From here, the route stretches along pleasant Vascão, passing through Revezes village and +351 286 660 051 trails between the successive hills until Ribeira continuing to Cascalheira mill, for a total of Dogueno Health Center (Santa Cruz) do Vascão. We pass through the village of about ten kilometers; +351 286 454 108 Revezes and continue along the valley to the old water mill called Cascalheira, for a total of - By the municipal road 1029, which connects about ten kilometers. Ameixial to Revezes, proceeding on a trail from there, intersecting with the Caminho Once we have dipped our feet in the stream Algarvio that will follow for three kilometers or crossed the pedestrian bridge next to the until the entrance to the Alentejo; mill, we continue straight through the Vascão valley until we reach the site of Monte Branco, - Coming from the north, by the road where the friendly resident couple always that leaves the village of Santa Cruz in the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT welcomes the visitors! direction of Alcoutim, Martim Longo and www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Cachoupo, taking the right on a nearby Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, crossroad and following the signs of Cerro das collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Águias and Monte Branco do Vascão, on a dirt bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals road. Arriving at Monte, the road gives easy or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates access to the trail's beginning at the Ribeira and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. do Vascão.

In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM EM504 SANTA CRUZ SANTA

Corte Joo Mares Corte Ribeira da Corte da Ribeira MONTE BRANCO VASCÃO

Rio Vascão Rio CORVOS Monte a Roba Monte Revees EM506 EM AMEIXIAL MONTE NOVO EM EM503 N2 Ainal os Moros Ainal Dogeno CENTRAL WAY stage Santa Cruz Almodôvar 2

When we leave Santa Cruz the the middle of the last century, Order of Santiago had in Mértola. landscape changes. In front Almodôvar was an important The village only had regional of us lies now, far out of sight, commercial warehouse and a centrality from 1285, date of the soft relief of the undulating center of artisans, dedicated the first charter of Almodôvar, plain of Baixo (Low) Alentejo. to an immense variety of arts donated by King D. Dinis. From The views widen and a quiet and crafts, where the cobblers 1297, the town was integrated stage is foreseen, conducive to dominated (see the huge into the Order of Santiago, which contemplation. sculpture in homage to the established a commendation Extensive crops are found in cobbler by Aureliano Aguiar, here until the end of the 18th non-fenced properties, as rarely in the Rotunda do Sapateiro century. Land of viola campaniça seen in the Alentejo, framed roundabout). (guitar) and cante alentejano by magnificent secular holm- In the origin (1239), the forest (local singing style), Almodôvar oaks, cork-oaks and tame pine of Almodôvar was the western is still a center of traditional plantations. Throughout the four limit of the possessions that the footwear manufacture. seasons the landscape takes on different shades, during spring it explodes in a profusion of colors, of flowering herbs and shrubs, and in the autumn it is no less impressive when, just after the first rains, a vivid green cover appears on the thick red earth. It is also the domain of grazing, where the so-called "Campos de Ourique" begin, which welcomed the ancestral annual transhumance, traveling hundreds of kilometers from Serra da Estrela. We often cross with flocks of curious sheep, whose calves approach without fear, to the traveler's delight. Cobres bridge and well It is possible that the bridge has a Roman origin since Almodôvar Almodôvar was implanted in the proximity of an old imperial road that linked Alcácer do Sal to the Algarve. The current configuration This second stage ends in of the bridge is medieval, as indicated by its structure. The first Almodôvar, village, and county, reference is from 1375 and, until the road uprising in the 19th which offers numerous cultural, century, it was the departing point from Almodôvar to the south gastronomic and tourist and arrival point for those coming from the Algarve or from attractions in general. Due to its Mértola. The access to the center would follow the current Rua strategic location between the da Ponte Romana. Alentejo and the Algarve, until

Central Way | 35 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Assunção Main Church of Santo The Franciscan monastery of Ildefonso Our Lady of Assumption had its The Main Church of St Il- origin in a small hermitage, which dephonse already existed in already existed in 1630. Half a 1320, but the present majestic century later, by the patronage church-hall look dates from a of Fernando Guerreiro, a man of complete reconstruction, which local prestige who was buried in took place at the end of the 16th a flat grave in front of the main century under the design of the altar of the convent church, royal architect Nicolau de Frias. the constitution of a convent The commission was from the was promoted, the only in the Order of Santiago, whose local history of Almodôvar. commander in 1592, D. Diogo de Castro, ordered the work to be completed.

Main Church of Rosário An outwardly modest building, its interior is a real catalog of devotions, considering the quantity and quality of the mural painting which, at the beginning of the 18th century, was applied to the side walls. Among the many saints rep- resented, a painting depict- ing Santiago as Matamouros (Moor-Slayer) stands out: on horseback, with his drawn sword and shield with the Or- der of Santiago cross, fighting the infidels without mercy. and also...

Medieval Market of Almodôvar − April knowledge, where it is possible to contemplate stone FACAL (Arts and Culture Fair) − July steles engraved with the oldest writing of the Iberian Mushroom and Arbutus Fair − November Peninsula. Southwest Writing Museum The Southwest Writing Museum reflects the starting point for the understanding of history and shows the ancestral way used to communicate.by the inhabitants of this territory for more than 2500 years. The exhibition presents, in a didactic, functional and aesthetic way, the evolution of spelling and written

36 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Santa Cruz Almodôvar 2 Distance 20 km TIPS WARNINGS Maximum altitude 331 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, CASTRO VERDE Cumulative increase 372 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Between Santa Cruz and Almodôvar, you Cumulative descent -399 m and a map. won't find any supply or support point, 30 km Duration 5h00m with the exception of the hospitality of the Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Monte João Dias residents and Café Sequeira ALMODÔVAR Almodôvar City Council in Guedelhas (Tel. 286 662 430). So you +351 286 660 600 should go prepared with whatever you think 500 m is convenient for the stage extension. The Almodôvar e Graça de Padrões 20 km 400 m coffee shop can prepare meals if previously Parish Councils 300 m indicated. SANTA CRUZ +351 286 662 563

Elevation 200 m 100 m SUPPORT 0 m CTT − Almodôvar Post Office USEFUL CONTACTS 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km Emergency: 112 Distance Tourism Office and Internet Space Forest Fires: 117 Almodôvar Fire Department: +351 286 660 140 POINTS OF INTEREST GNR − Almodôvar Territorial Station: Few farms and hills of stone and mud, some toponymy revealing the historical roots). +351 286 660 051 in complete ruin, attest to the dispersed Then, from hill to hill, including a "molha- Nossa Senhora da Conceição Convent human occupation, especially for agricultural pés" (foot-wet), if there is enough water, in Santo Ildefonso Main Church support of the owners and workers living in the crossing of the Oeiras stream (Moinho do HEALTH Nossa Senhora do Rosário Parish Church Almodôvar and other surrounding villages. In José Caetano), we get close to Almodôvar. Almodôvar Health Center the "Dadorde" area we discovered that it was Turning a final hill, Almodôvar appears as Santa Cruz Parish Church +351 286 660 200 after all the place of the Quinta "Da Ordem" a shining white oasis, set in the valley of Southwestern Writing Museum Pharmacy (of Santiago), now partially recovered for the Ribeira de Cobres, and as we go down Severo Portela Municipal Museum leisure accommodation. Recently, a metallic we accelerate our enthusiastic pace with Manuel Vicente Guerreiro Ethnographic wayside cross was found there, where the prospect of a tastier meal or a more and Archeological Museum probably many other historical remains have comfortable sleep than those we've had in yet to be discovered, and was rebuilt. the last two days.

About halfway through the stage, we pass The Path to road 267 and is signposted at Monte João Dias, where the few residents to follow on the left, entering the village by welcome us with sympathy and share with the new bridge over the Ribeira de Cobres us the little they have at their disposal. and following until the Igreja Matriz de From now on we follow an old road, now Almodôvar (Main Church). However, if you www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT reopened until we cross the river and travel want to have the experience of crossing the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt another 3 km to the village of Guedelhas for old bridge (medieval but built on the site of Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, a coffee or something more substantial. another one of Roman origin), you should collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't turn right and left again at about 100 meters. bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals After Guedelhas, the Path intersects with Once you have crossed the bridge, you will or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates the only stretch of road (2 km) of the stage have no difficulty in finding your way to the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. and then turns right onto the new rural Igreja Matriz. path towards Monte de Pero Guerreiro (the In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM So Pero e Solis Pero So

EM SANTA CRUZ SANTA Rio Vascão Rio Revees EM Monte a Roba Monte EM EM Senora a Graa e Pares a Graa Senora Dogeno N2 EM

N267 Ribeira de Cobres de Ribeira EM ALMODÔVAR EM EM N2 N393 CENTRAL WAY stage Almodôvar Castro Verde 3

Castro Verde was originally a small village in the immense fields of Ourique, as this part of Baixo (Low) Alentejo was known in the 13th century. The strategic location on the regional road network led to its elevation as a municipality and as a commendation of the Order of Santiago.

It was also the destination of the transhumance from distant On the way to Castro Verde places, such as Serra da Estrela, and considerable herds living in the vast plain extending to the south of the village of would arrive seasonally to the region. In the 16th century, the Order of Santiago was the largest owner of the urban center, since the large barn where King D. Sebastião was lodged in 1573 was attached to the houses of this Order. Land of miners and agricultural and breeding workers, Castro Verde is the homeplace of the main group of cante alentejano, the Ganhões, formed in 1972 by former workers in the wheat plains.

We can feel the presence of the Order of Santiago in the royal Chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios of Castro Verde. built in Initially consecrated to the Wounds of the Redeemer, the church 1718, it replaced the local parish became known as Our Lady of Remedies, due to miracles church and is a magnificent operated by an image of the Virgin offered in 1630 by a faithful monument from the devotee. The primitive construction of the building is legendarily time of D. João V. One of the related to a vow made by D. Afonso Henriques after the victory most important azulejo (typical in the , reason why the paintings that decorate Portuguese tiles) collections the ship, authored by the painter Diogo Magina, portray the of Alentejo is conserved in its successes of the first Portuguese king in that battle. interior, signed by the master P.M.P. from Lisbon and dated

Central Way | 39 c. 1730. The nave panels were dedicated to the events of the Battle of Ourique (July 25, 1139). And, although the exact location of this battle is unknown, a strongly rooted tradition situates it in São Pedro das Cabeças, southeast of Castro Verde. For D. Afonso Henriques' victory over an army of five Moorish chiefs, the main military success that contributed to the independence of the kingdom of Portugal, the apparition of Christ to the future Portuguese monarch on the eve of the battle was essential. The episode is depicted in the ceiling of the basilica nave.

The six lateral compositions of the chancel portray episodes of

Santiago’s life, finally concluding Royal Basilica of Castro Verde the relationship between the success of Ourique and the day the battle took place: July 25, Obelisk allusive to the 1139, St James' day. Found in the Battle of Ourique village of Casével, this medieval Raised in 1792 by the then head-reliquary was part of royal ombudsman of the the treasure of the Byzantine region of Castro Verde, the princess Vataça de Lascaris, the obelisk shows the effigy of handmaiden of Queen Isabel de the queen D. Maria I and an Aragão and lady of Santiago do inscription referring to the Cacém, where she also promoted apparition of Christ to D. important works. Probably of Afonso Henriques on Battle Aragonese manufacture, it was of Ourique. The monument used for the cult until the end was destroyed by a cyclone in of the 17th century, when the 1804 and was only reinstated reliquary was still transported in the space facing the City to the fields of Casével, to bless Council of Castro Verde in the cattle concentrated in the 1960. immense pastures. and also... Castro Festivities − June economic and cultural life of the county of Castro Castro Fair Verde. The tradition here is still the same and the fair It was instituted by Filipe II in 1620 and soon became takes place every October, according to the popular one of the most important events of the social, saying "As sure as the Feira de Castro."

40 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Almodôvar Castro Verde 3 Distance 30 km front gate. Through Rua do Cemitério, we turn Rua D. Afonso Henriques. The stage ends in front Maximum altitude 303 m to the right on the roundabout and walk up Rua of the Igreja das Chagas do Salvador (Church of MESSEJANA Cumulative increase 476 m dos Ciprestes. Then we follow Rua Dr. António the Savior’s Wounds), next to which the Tourism Cumulative descent -519 m Francisco Colaço, continuing to the left through Office is located. 29 km Duration 8h30m Difficulty (0-5) 4 São Miguel Casével Hermitage CASTRO TIPS VERDE Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, São Sebastião Hermitage 500 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, 30 km Obelisk in memory of the Battle of Ourique 400 m and a map. 300 m HEALTH ALMODÔVAR PUBLIC ENTITIES

Elevation 200 m Castro Verde City Council Castro Verde Health Center 100 m +351 286 320 700 +351 286 320 140 0 m Pharmacy 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 30 km Rosário Parish Council Distance SUPPORT CTT Post Office From Praceta do Poço de Beja square, we and, through the cemetery street, we head to USEFUL CONTACTS leave Almodôvar through the Antiga Estrada Castro Verde on a track road. We flank the Táxis Emergency: 112 de Ourique (Old Ourique Road). The asphalt old manganese and iron mines of Ferragudo Supermarket Forest Fires: 117 doesn't last long, giving way to the macadam but, with the construction of a private house Castro Verde Fire Department: at the intersection to access Monte Fernão on the site, this important point goes +351 286 320 020 POINTS OF INTEREST Dias, which is worth a visit if there is time. unnoticed to those who aren't aware of its GNR − National Republican Guard: We follow the Path for another 3 km and existence. Misericórdia Church +351 286 320 080 stay parallel to Corte Zorrinha, a small cluster Casével Main Church of houses. But the stage is long, 30 km, a We walk down the hill towards the railway Chagas do Salvador/Nossa respectable distance that doesn't augur well line, which we pass through in an uneven Senhora dos Remédios Church for an easy day. So, we'll have to focus on tunnel. Always accompanied by sheep Nossa Senhora da Conceição reaching Castro Verde or, alternatively, decide flocks, we arrive at Monte da Filipeja, where Royal Basilica since now to calmly enjoy the experiences we should know about the possibility of São Pedro das Cabeças Hermitage offered by the Path and spend the night meeting some shepherd dogs at large. in the village of Rosário, at half distance. We turn to the right, pass the lock gate Mountains in ruins and others in activity arise and we keep on opening and closing wire in an extensive, rural landscape without any gates that are essential to condition the shade points, where cereal fields coexist with herds' movements and ensure the pastures www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT olive groves, scattered holm oak and cork oak rotation. www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt forests, pastures, and even vineyards. The Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, village of A-dos-Neves appears in the perfect We cross the stream over a passageway in collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't time, either for a light rest or even to cool off solid stone slabs and follow the olive grove bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals on hotter days. to the rural road that will take us to one of or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates the Castro Verde entrances. In between, on and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. After 3.5 km, we arrive in Rosário, already in the left, we note an old property, the "Horta the municipality of Castro Verde. We follow da Ordem" (Order’s Garden), which proudly In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians Rua do Lavadouro, cross the N2 national road displays the initial "S" of Santiago at the only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

Ribeira Oeiras Barranco Seixal Barranco

Barranco Monte Branco N123 N267 EM508 Porteirinos Geralos

ALMODÔVAR

EM Rio Cobres Rio

ANTIGA MINA ANTIGA FERRAGUDODO Barranco Ribeirão Barranco MONTE PRAZERESDOS MONTE FILIPEJA EM1239 MONTE FERNÃO DIAS

N2 MONTE SOEIRO DO DE CIMA Delgada Maria Ribeira Rosrio N393 AosNeves EM1167 CASTRO VERDE CASTRO

Barranco Cachopa Barranco Tabelião Barranco IP2 AERODROMO DA ZAMBUJEIRA DA

EM1143 Barranco Zambujeira Barranco

Ribeira Perna Seca Ribeira Mora A2/IP1 EM

Barranco Almoleias Aleia os Fernanes EM515 CENTRAL WAY stage Castro Verde Messejana 4

In one of the poems from his work many species of birds with commendation since, at least, Ode to Alentejo, Miguel Torga unfavorable conservation status the reign of D. Dinis. The locality wrote "Alentejo, Alentejo, Vastness depends on it. It is the particular has its origin in the Arabic word of Portugal, Future, Continental! case of the bustard, the heaviest masjanâ, which means prison or Plowed land that I see, being sea bird of the European continent, imprisonment. A Christian Gothic but without salt". This "sea" may whose observation, especially in castle, which was built around well be the immense territory the months of March and April, 1288, succeeded the fortified named "Campo Branco", called moves thousands of people redoubt built by the Muslims. "de Ourique" in the 16th and every year to the Environmental The village had been conquered 17th centuries when it was Education Center of Vale by the troops of D. Sancho II in the destination for the winter Gonçalinho, a farm acquired by 1235. Located at the highest pastures of the big flocks coming the NGO Liga para a Protecção point of the village, of this former from Serra da Estrela, and da Natureza (League for Nature’s fortress only remains part of the therefore the phenomenon of Protection). tower used to defend the access transhumance strongly marked to the enclosure. Implanted on the county. This region is the Messejana is our destination. the slopes of the castle, now most important cereal-growing There we find the ruins of a castle, in a slightly peripheral position area of Portugal, resulting from evoking the importance of this in relation to the village, the the extensive cultivation of old medieval county, which was current configuration of the cereals, and the existence of the seat of the Order of Santiago Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos

Ancient Castle of Messejana

Central Way | 43 View of Messejana

Remédios dates back to an square concentrates the main when the apostles gained the extensive renovation in the 18th buildings of the village. The ability to speak the various century. Despite being discreet, pillory illustrates the importance languages of the earth, essential it is a compact and vertical of the locality in the 16th century knowledge for the sermons they church, worthy of a seat of when it received a new charter subsequently undertook. The commendation from Santiago of from D. Manuel I in 1512. The clock tower is annexed to the the south of the country. Igreja da Misericórdia was built former City Council and marked, in 1570, and inside it subsistsna for centuries, the daily life of the Contrary to the ruined medieval Mannerist painting representing local inhabitants with the sound nucleus, the Praça 1.º de Julho the Pentecost, the moment of its bell. and also... Annual Fair − June Nossa Senhora da Assunção Fair − August Ethnographic Museum of Messejana Located in one of the oldest buildings of Messejana, in the historical center of the village, the Ethnographic Museum can be considered the lounge of this land. It has 12 rooms reproducing an old sale, a classroom and several dependencies of typical Alentejo houses, from the most modest to the most well-to-do. It also exhibits objects such as the pitchers of Francisco Bartolomeu, the last water-bearer of Messejana.

44 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Castro Verde Messejana 4 Distance 29 km was here, three bullfights being held in four days. the Junta de Freguesia (Parish Council), also in Maximum altitude 256 m On the top, the main church and the ruins of the central square, to find out what Messejana Cumulative increase 382 m the castle, built in 1288, persist, but now only reserves for us. MESSEJANA Cumulative descent -430 m with vestiges of a tower wall. It's time to go to 8h30m 23 km Duration Difficulty (0-5) 4 FORNALHAS TIPS Ancient Manor of the family Velho da Costa 29 km VELHAS Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Ancient Castle of Messejana 500 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Ethnographic Museum of Messejana 400 m and a map.

CASTRO 300 m HEALTH VERDE PUBLIC ENTITIES Elevation 200 m Health extension of Messejana 100 m Messejana Parish Council (Aljustrel Health Center) +351 284 655 148 0 m +351 284 655 147 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 29 km Aljustrel City Council Pharmacy Distance +351 284 600 070

SUPPORT We leave Castro Verde for another extensive glued to the interior of the , an authentic USEFUL CONTACTS stage, along 29 km, until Messejana. Initially, human skull. At the time, the local people Bank/Cash Dispenser Emergency: 112 we cross the Campo Branco (White Field) remembered the ancestral memories and CTT Messejana Post Office Forest Fires: 117 through successive estates dedicated to had no doubt that it was the holy head of São Aljustrel Fire Department: Supermarket +351 284 600 130 cattle raising. At this time, or even earlier, Fabião (St Fabian), the Pope martyred in the Quinta da Cerca +351 936 119 626 GNR − Aljustrel Territorial Station: it is advisable to call the only existing 3rd century by the Empire of Rome, which for +351 284 600 010 accommodation unit in Messejana, or the centuries remained in the church of Casével Casa das Romãs +351 932 950 028 Parish Council, to ensure an overnight stay, and was venerated for the powers attributed which is always difficult to obtain due to the to it in protecting the cattle. POINTS OF INTEREST high demand of Aljustrel mine workers. Nossa Senhora da Assunção Hermitage After lunch, we continue our journey towards Santa Maria Main Church We pass the village of Almeirim and travel the old Casével railway station, on a practically Misericórdia Church about 1 km by road before turning to a dirt deserted rural road. From now on we have track on the left, where the sign indicates the 10 km of rural roads until Messejana, almost Town’s Pillory Herdade de S. Miguel. Before that, we also always between property fences, without any pass a green gate that gives access to the path relevant stories. At some point we'll find the leading to Fonte dos Milagres, whose waters, national road 263 but, immediately, we make for public use, are credited with exceptional the shift to the left in the direction of Monte www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT benefits. We surround the estate, passing by das Muralhas, passing all the gates interposed www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt a rural dam and enter Casével, passing the to us. Finally, we cross a viaduct over the Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, roundabout that bears an original metallic motorway and see the village of Messejana. collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't sculpture in honor of Cante Alentejano, and We arrive at the central square and are bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals turning right onto Rua de Castro Verde. We welcomed by the church of Misericórdia, or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates can't miss the opportunity to visit the main one of 11 churches that the village used to and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. church, built on another older temple. Here, have. The Praça de Touros (bullring) is on the a strange silver relic was found, representing right, behind the houses. The bullfighting was In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians a head of human scale, but carrying inside, already traditional in 1573, when D. Sebastião only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

EM

Delgada Ribeira Maria Maria Ribeira

N2 Ribeira Cinceira Ribeira MONTE REIDIAS

EM Ribeira Terges Ribeira MONTE CASTRO VERDE CASTRO HORTA DA NORA DA HORTA BORRINHACHOS IP2 HORTA HORTA BISPOS DOS EM535

Barranco Amendoeira Aleiri Ribeira Água Forte

FONTE FONTE Ribeira Gata

MONTE

DOS MILAGRESDOS Barranco Montinho Barranco DOS GREGÓRIOS DOS MONTE DO CERRO MONTE DO MONTE RINFEIXE Casvel Barranco Almoleias

MONTE GALIANA

Barranco Farrobo Barranco N263 Aivados Ribeira Ribeira Grandaços Aivaos

A2/IP1

MONTE MURALHAS Ribeira Barradinha Ribeira IC1 Ribeira Messejana

EM

Monte da Rocha da Monte

MESSEJANA Albufeira Ribeira Ferraria Ribeira

EM530 Ribeira Miguéis Ribeira EM Ribeira Nabos CENTRAL WAY stage Messejana Fornalhas Velhas 5

Messejana

The village of Fornalhas Velhas, located in the fertile fields of Vale de Santiago, between the rivers Sado and Campilhas, was, as the name suggests, the property of the Order of Santiago. Besides, it belongs to the Vale de Santiago, a town that owes its name to the fact that this stretch of territory, initially linked to Santiago do Ca- cém, was also owned by the Or- der of Santiago.

Vale de Santiago is a Portugue- se parish in the municipality of , with an area of 59.24 km2 and about 551 inhabitants.

Being an old village, Vale de San- tiago presents a beautiful route of narrow, whitewashed streets, keeping its traditional architec- ture intact. Monte Novo das Fornalhas

Central Way | 47 Campilhas dam

The Igreja de Santa Catarina de- associated with the death of Si- Just like the village, the old cas- serves a visit, as well as the fou- dónio Pais. The assassin of the tle illustrates the former uses ntain of Nossa Senhora da Luz. then President-King was José of Ribeira de Campilhas valley, Another site of this commune Júlio da Costa, an agrarian from promoted by the Order of San- worth mentioning is the hill of Garvão, who served as a media- tiago. In this place, a rudimentary Columbais, where it is said that tor between the authorities and military structure was erected, Christopher Columbus was born. the rioters of Vale de Santiago. of which no traces remain. The toponym ensures the antiquity Monte da Comuna is also note- St Catherine is the patron saint of the place, now transformed worthy, where a group of anar- of the parish, honored at the re- into an agricultural farm, and its chists, led by António Gonçalves ligious festival of November 25. relevance as a dominant point Correia, created the so-called The annual fair of Santiago de on that affluent of the Sado river. "Comuna da Luz", which led to Chile is held on the last Saturday the uprising of the rural workers of August and on the first Sun- of Vale de Santiago in the crisis day of September in Fornalhas of 1918. “Comuna da Luz” is also Velhas.

48 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Messejana Fornalhas Velhas 5 Distance 23 km TIPS Maximum altitude 198 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Cumulative increase 290 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, SÃO DOMINGOS Cumulative descent -397 m and a map. Duration 5h45m Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES 20 km

23 km Vale Santiago Parish Council

500 m +351 283 691 327 MESSEJANA FORNALHAS 400 m VELHAS SUPPORT 300 m Herdade do Marmeleiro

Elevation 200 m +351 934 533 485 100 m

0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 23 km USEFUL CONTACTS Distance Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 Before leaving for today's stage, we should irrigation channel of Alto Sado, already in the check the availability of accommodation municipality of Ourique. WARNINGS and food in Fornalhas Velhas, since this For questions related to accommodation, please village where we plan to end the day is Through the tunnel under the IC1 road, we contact the parish council. not yet prepared to receive many travelers advance towards Torre Vã, where we are simultaneously. surprised by the silhouette of an old building of great dimensions, surrounded by several We leave Messejana through the back of others of farm and housing use. This estate Quinta da Cerca, entering immediately after was a place of great importance in Roman a dirt track towards Aguentinha do Campo, times. Traces of an old villa and a dam have a hill with agricultural activity, rural tourism been found here. services, and equestrian activities. Beside it is Shortly after Torre Vã, we are on the Sado the Herdade de Buena Madre, where mineral riverbed, which we cross to the other bank, waters, much appreciated in the region, used closer to the railway line, which we will also to emerge. cross using the viaduct. Soon after, we enter, on the right, on a side road and walk about Wavy lands, with cistus, olive groves, and 6 km through cultivated fields and pastures diverse cultures, but always with dominant until we reach the village of Fornalhas Velhas, www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT cork oak forest. Here and there other hills, a in the municipality of Odemira. www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt dam, horses, cattle, and in 7.5 km we reach Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, the village of Elvas. Time for a coffee and We enter through Rua 25 de Abril directly to collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't we continue up the hill towards Monte do the crossroad where we find Café O Jorge, and bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals Cerro, from where you can enjoy a beautiful ask for the installations of the Centro Sócio- or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates view over the green valleys, created by the cultural or for Monte do Marmeleirinho, the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. streams descending from the plateau. We will only places with accommodation prepared follow this descent and then pass over the for travelers. In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

Ribeira Nabos EM530

Ribeira Barradinha EM1225

Ribeira Outeirões MESSEJANA Ribeira Miguéis Ribeira N261 HERDADE HERDADE BUENA MADRE EM DO CAMPO DO MONTE DA AGUENTINHA

Ribeira Messejana N263 MONTE DA NOBRE MONTE DA Aleia os Elvas N261-4 CM1082

Monte Monte o Serro Ribeira Ferraria Ribeira

Barranco Vale de Coelheiros Ribeira Garvão Ribeira

IC1 Ribeira Messejana Ribeira

Barranco Corgo do Vale de Lobo Barranco Ferrador Barranco

Rio Sado Torre V Torre EM EM1109

Barranco Corgo do Vale de Alcondim de Vale do Corgo Barranco EM1079 EM N262 FORNALHAS FORNALHAS VELHAS

EM518 Barranco Carvalhal Malhão Ribeira Ribeira Campilhas CENTRAL WAY stage Fornalhas Velhas São Domingos 6

We evoke the history of Vale Much older is the parish church As it suggests, São Domingos de Santiago, which tells us that of São Domingos, built in the got its name from a saint. An during the crisis of 1918, the rural late Middle Age, when the village old legend tells that some local workers of the region united was a chaplaincy of the Order inhabitants used to worship in rebellion and began the first of Santiago, but preserving an image of St Dominic, in an anarchist commune there. still a holy water sink from the undetermined place on the south They became vegetarians and Manueline era. A simple temple, side of São Domingos stream. As naturists, devoted to agriculture typical of rural and peripheral they wanted to build a chapel on and shoemaking. However, it territory, its construction was the opposite side of the margin, didn’t last long, as they were determined by functional they would bring the image to subjected to police persecution values, enriched in the 17th and the desired place, but the next and repression, and accused of 18th centuries with altars and morning the image insisted on encouraging the rural strikes that devotional images, and later, a miraculously appearing in the occurred after that. bell tower in the 20th century. original place. That’s why both

Arriving to São Domingos

Central Way | 51 the church and the village have which ceased activity in 1982. (Flour Museum), which opened the present implantation. After a period of decadence, its doors in 2014 and restores the monumental ensemble was much of the industrial material In São Domingos there is also used for local accommodation. previously used in the factory. the old grinding mill of José Part of the project was converted Mateus Vilhena, built in 1925, into the Museu da Farinha

Fonte Cerne Dam (Serne) With an area of 105 hectares, the dam of Fonte Cerne was designed in 1973 and built in 1977, to exploit the flow of the Vale Diogo stream. The embankment wall has a height of 18 meters. It is a secondary dam, with a local irrigation system, although today it is more suited for leisure zone.

and also... Farinha Museum Opened in 2014, the Flour Museum presents an you can see part of its equipment, most of it built in element of the rural and industrial heritage that is wood. From the harvest to the bread, this museum striking for the Alentejo region. It is located in the old depicts the cycle of this food, which is part of the base Grinding Factory, which worked until 1982 and where of the Portuguese diet.

52 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Fornalhas Velhas São Domingos 6 Distance 20 km organized, along the 6 km that separate us from Museum), located at Rua 1º de Maio. Situated Maximum altitude 110 m the stage end. We cross the village towards the in an old milling factory, it exposes most of the SANTIAGO DO CACÉM Cumulative increase 214 m Junta de Freguesia (Parish Council), located in the industrial material used in the factory, which Cumulative descent -223 m same square, Largo 25 de Abril, as the old and closed in 1982. In the main church, built when Duration 5h00m simple church that exists there, and where we the town belonged to the Order of Santiago, we 24 km Difficulty (0-5) 3 consider today's route to be finished. Here, in São discovered a Manueline baptismal font. Domingos, we visit the Museu da Farinha (Flour 20 km 500 m SÃO DOMINGOS 400 m TIPS POINTS OF INTEREST FORNALHAS 300 m VELHAS Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Campilhas Dam a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Elevation 200 m São Domingos Church and a map. 100 m Flour Museum 0 m 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km 20 km PUBLIC ENTITIES Distance São Domingos and Vale de Água USEFUL CONTACTS Parish Councils +351 269 903 158 Emergency: 112 We proceed until the end of Rua 25 de Abril road a little further on, as soon as we enter Forest Fires: 117 SUPPORT and continue straight ahead, on a dirt track the municipality of Santiago do Cacém. flanked by eucalyptus trees that ensure the Bank/Cash Dispenser WARNINGS shade. Following the signs, we enter through The large road allows us to have good São Domingos Post Office a metallic gate in the beautiful property of panoramic views of the entire surrounding − Papelaria Joaninha (stationery shop) For questions related to accommodation, please contact the parish council. Monte Novo das Fornalhas and go down region, particularly when we approach the Supermarket the hill overlooking a dam on the right side. Monte dos Alhos dam, where we watch the Public Shower We pass over a stream and do not give in to virtuous aerial dances of thousands of birds the immense mud that accumulates next to from different species. On the north side of Monte da Garrocheirinha +351 269 909 213/+351 937 755 990 the ETAR (Wastewater Treatment Plant). Less the dam, there is also a vast plantation of than 1 km later, between flocks of sheep and stone pines on a bright green carpet, which Monte Xisto Hotel Rural **** cultivated plots, we arrive at a road (N262). adds a beautiful frame to this unexpected +351 269 900 040/+351 939 221 386 corner. We pass over the dam wall and find We turn left and then right, pass the a curve on an asphalt road, surrounding the uncharacteristic place of Castelo Velho, installations of Monte dos Alhos, on which location of ancient fortified prehistoric we take the route on the left. After 2.5 kms, settlements, where later was installed a small we turn left again to follow through Foros rural castle of the Islamic Period, which the da Casa Nova. We take a break at the coffee www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT Order of Santiago took advantage of. Towers, shop A Paragem, the only one in the village www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt hills and castles were very common in the that also prepares lunches, which comes in Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, territory of Odemira, for defense during the handy!... collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't endless wars and alternate conquests of bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals bastions, from the 8th to the 12th century, With the stomach ready for the last effort or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates in this border area between the territories until São Domingos, we enter through lands and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. of Portuguese Muslims and Christians. Once where the agricultural activity has lost space, again we curve to the right, to another mainly giving place to the eucalyptus, cork In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians asphalted branch, which passes the macadam oak, and holm oak forests, more or less only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. Barranco Martinhanes

Barranco Vale de Santiago

N390 SÃO DOMINGOS N261

Ribeira S. Domingos Ribeira Malhão

EM

EM

Foros a Casa Nova

Albufeira da Barragem EM

Fonte Serne

N262

Foros e Malo FORNALHAS Castelo Velo VELHAS

EM EM1075 Monte Novo as Fornalas ETAR

Ribeira Gema

EM518 CENTRAL WAY stage São Domingos Santiago do Cacém 7

Donated to the Order of Santiago Cacém between 1317 and 1332. a considerable part of the by D. Sancho I, in 1186, Santiago medieval work commissioned do Cacém was the first advanced The ruins of her former palace by D. Vataça de Lascaris, around point of the Spatharii in the are still visible inside the castle, 1315. A monumental temple, south of the country, at the time but it is in the main church that with three naves and an old when the castle of Palmela was remains the most important staggered chevet, the main the headquarters of the Order. vestiges of her action as a entrance was initially turned The village, which had been donator of a village that had inwards the castle, functioning conquered in 1158, fell into strong devotional connections to as a private chapel of the village Muslim hands at the end of the the apostle Santiago. In the lower grantees, who had their palace 12th century. It only became zone of the village, there was a in the fortress. It was only at the Portuguese definitive possession hospital of the Espírito Santo beginning of the 19th century in 1217, after the conquest of that served travelers and pilgrims that the main façade of the old Alcácer do Sal. In 1310, the village who made a stop in the village. chapel have been implanted. was donated to a handmaiden of This reinforced the status of the the queen D. Isabel of Aragon, The main church of Santiago temple as the village’s parish Vataça Lascaris, a Byzantine do Cacém was quite modified church, more easily connected to princess exiled in Aragon. She by an intervention carried the population center that was accompanied the queen to out between 1796 and 1830, developing on the slopes of the Portugal when she married following the damage caused castle. Among the many subjects D. Dinis. Already widowed, D. by the earthquake of 1755. of interest of this construction is Vataça lived in Santiago do Despite that, it conserves the representation, in a column,

Main Church of Santiago do Cacém

Central Way | 55 of a human figure who seems By 1530, under the patronage of and cross-shaped staves. Four of to represent the apostle with Alonso Peres Pantoja, at the time these keystones were preserved staff, while a bust drinking from alcalde of Santiago do Cacém, the in the post-earthquake a gourd, symbol of the Jacobean chapel had been covered with a campaign of 1755 and are now pilgrims, remains apart. stone vault, whose keystones applied to the churchyard walls were decorated with scallops, and the staircase giving access to In this church, we can also crosses of the Order of Santiago the temple. find the Panel of Santiago Matamouros. Greatest work of the medieval art and one of the oldest representations of St James the Moor-slayer in Portuguese art, this grandiose altarpiece must have been commissioned around 1330 by D. Vataça de Lascaris, for the main chapel of the parish church of Santiago do Cacém. The apostle, with the standard of the Order of Santiago, rides triumphantly over a host of Muslims. Some are crushed, others try to flee, others still draft a defensive attempt, unbelieving Roman ruins of Miróbriga at the supremacy of such a Interpreted by some as a shrine, identified by others as an urban valiant Christian warrior. There center, it is known that Miróbriga was inhabited since at least is also a medieval relic of Santo the Iron Age until the 4th century AD. C., increasing more during Lenho, brought by D. Vataça the Roman period. Located in an area of enhanced visibility, of Lascaris from her Byzantine it allowed the control of a vast region and its wealth, namely domains. There are reports that agricultural and mineral resources. About 1 km away from the other relics in possession of archaeological site are the ruins of the racecourse, which was that princess would have been used for car races pulled by two or four horses. Currently, the deposited under the pillars as the site has a Reception and Interpretation Center, where there is a church was being built. permanent exhibition about this place, classified as Property of Public Interest since 1940. Before 1755, the church had already been greatly benefited. and also... Monte Fair − August/September de Compostela to venerate the Apostle St James. It Santiagro, Agribusiness and Horse Fair − May maintains in its base the use of eggs and almond, Santiago Cake and Santiaguinhos however, it suffers (in this region) small changes, In its genesis, the Cake of Santiago is a convent namely the use of pumpkin-Gila jam and, depending dessert of Galicia (Spain) which presumably was on the taste the person who does it, the use of disseminated over time by the Ways that, since cocoa/chocolate in its confection. the Middle Ages, linked the pilgrims to Santiago

56 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage S. Domingos Santiago do Cacém 7 Distance 24 km contemplation of the stone panel displayed in Moor-Slayer holding the standard of the Order 261 m the main church, representing Saint-James the and riding over a host of Muslims. RONCÃO Maximum altitude Cumulative increase 483 m Cumulative descent -363m 22 km Santiago do Cacém Castle Duration 6h45m TIPS Difficulty (0-5) 4 Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Quintinha Municipal Mill SANTIAGO DO CACÉM a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Altura do Chapéu Fora and a map. Santiago do Cacém Castle 24 km 500 m 400 m PUBLIC ENTITIES Loreto Convent 300 m São Francisco da Serra Parish Council Miróbriga Roman Ruins SÃO DOMINGOS +351 269 471 126 Elevation 200 m Ruins of Convent Nossa Senhora do Loreto 100 m Santiago do Cacém, Santa Cruz and Santiago do Cacém Municipal Museum 0 m São Bartolomeu da Serra Parish Councils 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 24 km +351 269 818 740 Natural Reserve of Lagoa de Santo André Distance Sado river SUPPORT We are about to face one of the most of Paiol de Santiago, after covering 17km of CTT Post Office HEALTH demanding stages of the Path, not only for today’s stage. This is the refuge of the wild Bank/Cash Dispenser Pharmacy its total length (24 km) or for any special boar, the common genet and even the Quinta do Chafariz Tourism Office technical difficulty, but for the simple fact majestic Iberian lynx, some say. +351 269 826 696 that it has to be walked in total isolation, Historic Center Tourism Office without any support resource for almost 21 We head towards Aldeia de Chãos, a little USEFUL CONTACTS +351 269 825 382 km, until we reach Aldeia dos Chãos. In spite over 3 km away, where we enter the main Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 of this, the Path remains always parallel and street and finally stop for some refreshing POINTS OF INTEREST Santiago do Cacém Fire Department: at a comfortable distance from the national moments, but without cooling down, as Civil parish of Santiago do Cacém +351 269 810 490 road N261 (about 2 km), which allows an Santiago do Cacém is already nearby. From GNR – Santiago do Cacém Territorial Station: "escape" in case of any difficulty. In case of Aldeia dos Chãos we leave by dirt road to São Bartolomeu Church +351 269 249 200 need, we can also approach some inhabited the N261 and, already at the roundabout, we Santiago do Cacém Main Church hills, such as Taboeira or the hamlets of Paiol choose to go straight ahead, walking down (National Monument) de Santiago. to the village entrance. Here, we pass very close to the Roman village of Miróbriga ruins. The exit from São Domingos is initially made We meet the national road N120 in the next by road, walking down to the intersection roundabout and continue straight ahead with the national road N261. We walk on it through the main axis of the city until we www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT about 500 meters before deviating to the find the City Council building, on the left. The www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt left, to the sand trail that will accompany, stage ends in the municipal garden in front Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, for 4 km, the irrigation channel winding, of it. In Santiago do Cacém, twinned with collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't parallel to São Domingos stream bed. After Santiago de Compostela, the Order and the bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals deviating from the canal, through hills and "matamouros" apostle are omnipresent in the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates valleys, almost always in the domain of the city’s past. The tourism services will provide and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. holm oak and cork oak forests, we continue several references for your visit, so it is not through the middle of nature. We will finally necessary to mention them here. However, In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians see somebody when we pass by the hamlets we cannot fail to highlight the impact of the only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. Ribeira Azinhal

N120 EM

Barranco Vale EM548 do Abutrial Barranco Possancas

SANTIAGO DO CACÉM

N120 So Bartoloe a Serra

Ribeira Corona

EM N121

Barranco Pego Negrão Bairro a Foriga

Aleia os Cos

Barranco Martinhanes

MONTE DA PORTELA

QUINTA BRUNHEIRA DO MEIO

QUINTA FONTE N261 DAS RÃS

QUINTA A TABOEIRA

Barranco Cavada Carvalais

SÃO DOMINGOS

Ribeira S. Domingos

Barranco Ribeirinha

EM Barranco Adega

Vale e Ága N390 EM

EM553 CENTRAL WAY stage Santiago do Cacém Roncão 8

Roncão

Currently belonging to the civil parish of S. Francisco da Serra, the settlement of the village of Roncão, and all the parish dates back to the medieval period and is due to the Order of Santiago de Espada (St James with Sword). The Igreja de São Bartolomeu da Serra church lies nearby, built in the 14th century and greatly restored at the end of the 18th century, as attested by an inscription engraved on a column pinnacle. At that time, Church of São Bartolomeu da Serra the local parish priest ordered the drafting of a new chancel, of D. Pedro I, a monarch who of Sines, in whose municipality a new altarpiece, and a bell had St Bartholomew as patron there is also a church of São tower. The origin of the temple saint. He was also connected to Bartolomeu. From the temple must coincide with the reign the construction of the castle subsists the gothic image of

Central Way | 59 the apostle Bartholomew in limestone, probably from the Cruz de João Mendes region of Évora. Here, André Luís Land of cork production, the locality is implanted on the road Beltrão, a friar of Santiago who that linked Santiago do Cacém and Grândola, almost halfway. It died in 1649, was buried in a is possible that its foundation is associated with a way cross, in shallow grave. The churchyard a route heading to the highest point of Serra de Grândola, that wayside cross still preserves a didn’t cross the locality near São Francisco da Serra. scallop, symbol of the tutelage of this locality by the Order of Santiago. southern line (along the Sado inaugurated. The railway arrived The railway station of São river valley) was planned. The in Santiago do Cacém in 1934 Bartolomeu da Serra is also worth works started in 1919, but the and in Sines two years later. visiting. From the 19th century first section was only completed The station was disabled for onwards, the construction of an in 1927 when the station of passengers in 1990. extension between Sines and the São Bartolomeu da Serra was

60 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Santiago do Cacém Roncão 8 Distance 22 km Saint Bartholomew. It is worth remembering that, de Corona. Passing the stream by a recent bridge, Maximum altitude 270 m until the end of the stage in Roncão (almost 11 we turn left and continue to follow it until we are GRÂNDOLA Cumulative increase 567 m km), we will not find any other point of support forced to pass it by ford, after which, at the fork,

23 km Cumulative descent -500 m on the Path, except for an emergency, at the we choose the path to the right. Duration 6h15m Hotel Rural do Monte da Ameira. Difficulty (0-5) 4 In the middle of abandoned hills and narrow RONCÃO Every year in mid-July, the village becomes leafy valleys, we continue along the marked enlivened with the organization the Festival trail, totally immersed in nature, until we reach 22 km 500 m Nacional de Folclore, with ethnographic parades the village of Roncão, where we meet the N120 400 m and the participation of various Portuguese choirs national road. We turn left, walking a few meters 300 m and "ranchos" (folkloric groups), among them the along the road, and we finish the stage in front of SANTIAGO DO CACÉM

Elevation 200 m local Rancho Folclórico Ninho de Uma Aldeia. Solar dos Leitões. In this manor, as in the whole

100 m We head north and quickly exit the N121 national village, the “Leitão Assado” (roasted suckling pig) road, turning left on the dirt track, next to a is a central dish. We spend the night in one of 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 22 km white house with an interesting "algarvian" style the existing local accommodations, in case you Distance chimney. We pass a rural tourism center and haven't preferred to stay in the field, enjoying the cross with a wide road that we’ll follow to the left, excellent conditions of Monte da Ameira. going down to the beautiful valley of the Ribeira The route between Santiago do Cacém and Further on, we travel a short stretch of 400 Grândola proposed by the GR11-E9 is based meters on the busy N120 national road, from on an itinerary with an extension of about which we turn right on the only dirt road, 40 km, mostly on road and without any with the mountain ranges of Grândola and TIPS SUPPORT intermediate support until Santa Margarida Cercal on the horizon. After 1.5 km, we find Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Solar dos Leitões da Serra. It might be acceptable for those who a geodesic marker and turn left for a steep a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Vivenda Palheiras +351 917 225 150 travel by mountain bike but not advisable for descent to the tight valley of a stream, on and a map. Monte Nature +351 968 094 007 hikers. This is, therefore, a stage that starts as whose banks we will follow another 1.5 km. It a "recourse" for walking travelers but ends is an area of dense cork and holm oak forest, PUBLIC ENTITIES POINTS OF INTEREST up being frankly more interesting in terms very fresh and of great natural beauty. We Santiago do Cacém, Santa Cruz and of landscape, experiences, and comfort it will end up deviating to the left, going up São Bartolomeu da Serra Parish Councils São Bartolomeu Church provides. the hill and reaching a macadam road, which +351 269 818 740 will take us through ridges and valleys of a Once we start the stage in front of the City pleasant rural atmosphere until the railway Council building, we head to the city’s exit, line. passing Largo 25 de Abril and going up Rua de Lisboa until the next roundabout. There, Crossing it on the existing pedestrian walkway, we find a yellow building crossed by a tunnel we quickly reach the village of S. Bartolomeu www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT showing a pedestrian path. We find out it’s the da Serra through Avenida 25 de Abril. On the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt old Estrada Real (Royal Road) that gives access right, we find the beautiful train station of São Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, to the top of the Ermida de S. Sebastião (St Bartolomeu da Serra, from 1932, with yellow collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Sebastian’s Hermitage). We admire the view tones and decorated with azulejo tiles. In S. bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals for a moment and descend again to the Path Bartolomeu we replenish our energy, with or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates to discover "Delícias para Ti" (Delicacies for two grocery stores and two coffee shops to and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. You)!.... In this traditional atelier of cakes and choose from, and we take the opportunity to biscuits, the artisan Cristina Gomes produces visit the church of São Bartolomeu da Serra, In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians the famous cake "Bolo de Santiago". where we can see an image of the apostle only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM544 Cr Joo Menes

EM

IC33

RONCÃO

N120

EM548

EM

N120

So Bartoloe a Serra

SANTIAGO DO CACÉM

Bairro a Foriga

N261

EM Aleia os Cos CENTRAL WAY stage Roncão Grândola 9

In this village, immortalized by time master and visitor of the In 1513, the same D. Jorge de the poet and singer Zeca Afonso Order of Santiago. The interior Lencastre, master of the Order in the song Grândola Vila Morena, was enriched in the baroque of Santiago, visited the Igreja which served as a symbolic period with gilded wood de Santa Margarida da Serra, hymn during the revolution of altarpieces of remarkable quality, which he found very damaged. April 25, 1974, we can still visit and the Order of Santiago’s cross The temple as it is known today the main church. But, if the is displayed on the triumphal arch. is the result of a great reform weather is good, the best will be to enjoy and take a leap down to the Atlantic coast for a refreshing Fountain of Santa Margarida da Serra dip, a fantastic sunset and a nice Built in 1843, as indicated by the inscription on the pediment, meal of fresh fish. this fountain was an essential point of support for travelers between Grândola and Santiago do Cacém, through Grândola Otherwise, you can still enjoy the mountain range. gastronomic offer of the village, whose regional sweets include the Bolo das Rosas (Roses Cake) and the Alcomonias. Amazing delights! At the end of August, the village hosts the great Feira de Agosto, the largest fair in the coast of Alentejo, with handicrafts, small taverns and a festival dedicated to horse riding. On the side of the Tourism Office building, a sculpture evokes D. Jorge de Lencastre, Prince of the Kingdom and Master of the Order of Santiago, who assigned a charter to Grândola in the 16th century. He is using a coat of arms that, besides the spatharii cross of the Order, bears the boar which is at the origin of the legend of the village name’s foundation, originally "Grandolha".

In the village, the main church is also worth visiting. It was built in the first decades of the 16th century, after a visit to the village by D. Jorge de Lencastre, at the Main Church of Grândola

Central Way | 63 accomplished in the 17th century, which ended the authoritarian Santos that includes a pavement which privileged an austere and regime of the . It with the shape of a carnation. In simple logic. Its porch certainly also paved the way for the end the memorial are also inscribed housed some travelers in transit of the colonial war and the the verses of the song Grândola through Grândola mountain establishment of a transition Vila Morena, by Zeca Afonso, range. Inside, the pulpit main period for a democratic regime. which soon became one of the face was decorated with the In the square stands a memorial hymns of the Revolution and the cross of the Order. by the artist Bartolomeu Cid dos following period.

Built in the 18th century, the building of the former Paços do Pego da Moura Dam Concelho de Grândola (Town Recognized at the beginning of the 20th century as a Roman Hall) is a typical local civilian dam, it must have been built in two phases, between the 1st and equipment of that period, 3rd centuries AD. C. The retaining wall is about 40 meters long, composed of two floors with by almost 3 meters wide, which allowed to define a dam with a a bell tower. Two prisons were capacity of more than 2 km. operating on the lower floor; while the conference rooms of the county council and court were on the upper floor. Deactivated in the 20th century, it serves other purposes today but remains as a patrimonial piece of greater autarchic relevance to the village. Grândola has, of course, its Praça da Liberdade (Square of Liberty). Inaugurated on April 25, 2012, it illustrates the importance of the village in the Revolution of April 25, 1974, also called “Carnation Revolution”, Sacred Art Museum and also... August Fair − August Freedom Race − April Festivities in Honnor of Nossa Sr.ª da Penha − May April 25th Memorial Composed of an elliptical wall, a large blue carnation, whose stem goes to the base of the monument, as if it was breaking through the soil, is painted in the central circle. At the bottom of the circle is a rectangle with the names of many of the Captains of April who participated in the Revolution, while on the sidewalls you can see the music score and lyrics of Grândola, Vila Morena song.

64 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Roncão Grândola 9 Distance 23 km arrive at the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da blocks our passage. We climb the pedestrian Maximum altitude 287 m Penha de França, at the top of an elevation. We aerial passage to overcome the IC1 and enter ALCÁCER Cumulative increase 471 m reject the road leading there and we go down the in Grândola, first by Rua das Pontes and then by DO SAL Cumulative descent -635 m trail on the left, which leads us to the valley of Rua Vasco da Gama, until the square where the 33 km Duration 6h30m Grândola stream, which we follow until the N120 Tourism Office is located. Difficulty (0-5) 4

GRÂNDOLA TIPS Frayões Metello House 500 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Monument to Liberty 23 km 400 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Pego da Moura Dam 300 m and a map. Eco-park Montinho da Ribeira RONCÃO

Elevation 200 m

100 m PUBLIC ENTITIES HEALTH 0 m City Council 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 23 km +351 269 750 429 Grândola Health Center Distance +351 269 450 200 SUPPORT Pharmacy We escape the national road N120, looking for With our backpack heavier with some CTT Post Office a passage on the right under the motorway iron items, we re-enter the N120 for a few Bank/Cash Dispenser IC33, on a side street that will take us to moments until entering the village of Santa USEFUL CONTACTS Tourism Office +351 269 750 429 Emergency: 112 the village of Cruz de João Mendes. We pass Maria da Serra. We look for lunch and, to Forest Fires: 117 through the center of the village and look "digest", we visit the village, starting with the POINTS OF INTEREST Grândola Fire department: for the exit through the wide macadam road House Museum Manuel Chainho. Then, the Nossa Senhora da Penha Hermitage +351 269 498 450 of Rua da Eira, which follows the unfinished church of Santa Margarida da Serra renovated GNR − National Republican Guard: Main Church work of a motorway. We leave this road 2.5 in the 20th century but already described as +351 269 242 600 km later, turning left into an abandoned "badly damaged and in such a way that no São Sebastião Church (Sacred Art Museum) concrete tunnel, seeping into the heart of the mass should be said in it" in 1513. Next to Museum Nucleus of São Pedro Grândola mountain range. the church, we climb the viewpoint staircase, Church and Collection which offers us a magnificent view of the Sacred Art Museum We walk isolated in the middle of nature, village and the mountains. between the vegetation that thickens and D. Jorge Square where the cork oak dominates, although Next to the coffee shop Triunfo, we follow the true genocide that is reaching this the road that gives access to several farms emblematic tree becomes evident. With and rural tourism at km 2. But it is another redoubled attention to signage, so that we kilometer ahead, right in front of an inhabited www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT don't get lost, we end up on a hill that, further hill, that we must pay attention to curve to www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt ahead, where it crosses the road, is identified the right, descending an inclined path, with Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, by a sign as Corte Esporão. We continue to poor condition, through dense vegetation, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't the left, on the road, until we find the N120 that accompanies the valley formed by the bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals road, which "picks us up" again there. Several water line. or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates signs indicate the directions of the pedestrian and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. routes and the GR11-E9, but it is the workshop We are once again immersed in the bucolic of the locksmith Frank Peters, right in front, scenery of Grândola mountain range and, In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians that attracts our attention. after many curves and counter-curves, we only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. GRÂNDOLA

IC1

EM

N261-2

N120

EM546

EM

Santa Margaria a Serra

IC33

So Franiso a Serra

EM544 Cr Joo Menes

EM

EM RONCÃO EM CENTRAL WAY stage Grândola Alcácer do Sal 10

After crossing the river Sado by boat, travelers arriving in Alcácer Main Church of Alcácer do Sal Built in the 13th century, it is the oldest church of Alcácer do Sal, do Sal would face the narrow and its portals are still connoted with Romanesque aesthetics. line of land between the river The main façade also preserves an insignia of the Order of and the castle. The strategic Santiago, made up of the spatharian cross accompanied by relevance of Alcácer’s cliff led two scallops, the gourd, and the staff, symbols of the Jacobean to the submission of the locality pilgrims. In the interior, the late Gothic image of the apostle to the Order of Santiago before is preserved, offered to the chapel of Santiago of the friars of 1172 and again in 1217, after Santiago’s palace, by master D. Jorge de Lencastre, after 1512. the definitive conquest by the Portuguese troops. Between that date and 1235, Alcácer do known as meysom d'alcaçar. It to numerous domestic and Sal became the headquarters of was built and benefited in the support areas. There was also a the santiaguists in Portugal and, medieval period and then totally chapel dedicated to St James, a in the following centuries, it was refurbished from 1573, the year in religious space that also served the headquarters structure of the which the structure was adapted for the friars' meetings. It still Portuguese spatharii. to another convent, this time exists, integrated into Pousada of Aracoeli. The spatharii house de Alcácer hotel. In Alcácer do Sal, much of the had a dormitory, a palace for the rich patrimony is associated with knights, a nursing ward, a registry The most monumental church of this presence as is the case of office, a hostel, a cloister and a Alcácer do Sal, Igreja de Santiago, the friars of Santiago convent, large zone of silos, in addition was built by D. João V at the

Alcácer do Sal

Central Way | 67 height of Baroque times. In the interior, we are impressed by the blue and white covering the nave walls, dating from the 20s and 30s of the 18th century and attributed to António de Oliveira Bernardes. There are 14 panels that constitute the most complete Jacobean cycle in tiles, portraying scenes of St James' apostolic mission in the Iberian Peninsula. In the 80s of the 18th century, the main chapel walls also received azulejo panels illustrating three scenes of the earth and celestial life of Order of Santiago’s friars. In the first panel, Christ gives the spatharii habit Church of Santiago to a knight, represented with some companions, preparing to Jacobean friars. Probably built in deteriorated mural painting with fight the infidels. The third panel the 13th century, several private the representation of Santiago reveals this same knight, already funeral chapels were associated Matamouros and the shrine’s deceased, to be received by the with it in the following times. The backyard, a rural area for vines Holy Trinity. The altarpiece also oldest is the one of the treasury, cultivation, locally known as contains a representation of annexed to the main chapel, “A Peregrina” (The Pilgrim). Santiago Matamouros, an 18th- but the most monumental date The church was the object of century painting attributed to from the 30s and is known as important pilgrimages, to the Pedro Alexandrino, in which the Capela dos Mestres (Masters point of having houses for the apostle crushes his enemies Chapel) because it was designed pilgrims, who still exist on the under the admired gaze of two to receive the masters of the southern side of the temple. Christian soldiers. Order of Santiago’s burials. The most recent date from the Another church, of Nosso Senhor 15th century and is known as dos Mártires (Our Lord of Martyrs), Capela de Maria de Resende. was of great importance to the The church also exhibits a very

and also... October's New Fair − October pilgrimage and procession on the river Sado, in honor Senhor dos Mártires Festival − September of Nossa Senhora do Castelo. Maritime delicacies, river Sado Flavours Festival shrimp sale, concerts, and dances on the southern In July, Alcácer do Sal is the scene of the Sado Flavours shore, delight the visitors. Festival festival that combines gastronomy with a

68 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Grândola Alcácer do Sal WARNINGS Before leaving Grândola, we advise you to call the establishment Baracinha, the only in the village that can guarantee the short river crossing of the river Sado, indispensable to 10 continue the Path until Alcácer do Sal. Distance 33 km For an alternative passage see www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Maximum altitude 107 m CASEBRES Cumulative increase 307 m 23 km Cumulative descent -412 m between the rice paddies, mountains and dams, the viaduct and, through Rua da Duration 8h15m we follow 8.5 km until we reach the premises Foz, we continue along the marginal road until Difficulty (0-5) 3 of Herdade da Barrosinha. This estate produces Largo Luís de Camões. There, we find the kiosk ALCÁCER DO SAL good wines and olive oils, and through its land, where is installed the local Tourism Office, to we find wild boars, woodcocks and partridges, help us in what we need for today. Just next door 500 m 33 km which can be served to us in the property's we can find the metal bridge over the Sado, a 400 m restaurant. We leave Barrosinha to Alcácer do copy of Gustave Eiffel's style that has served the

300 m Sal along the N5 national road, passing under inhabitants of Alcácer since 1945. GRÂNDOLA

Elevation 200 m 100 m TIPS Santiago Church 0 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Santa Maria do Castelo Church 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 30 km 33 km Distance a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Nossa Senhora de Aracoelli and a map. Convent and Church Alcácer do Sal Castle Today we will perform the most extensive after 5.5 km. The vegetation thickens with PUBLIC ENTITIES stage of the Central Path in Alentejo and the accompaniment of successive streams Alcácer do Sal City Council HEALTH Ribatejo, 33 km, but the previous days have and the trail becomes less monotonous, but +351 265 601 040 already prepared us for this challenge. In even so, there are no major reasons worth Alcácer do Sal Health Center +351 265 610 500 any case, you will always have the option of mentioning, with the exception of the sand SUPPORT interrupting the trip in the village of Vale de that hampers our progress. We can enjoy Bank/Cash Dispenser Pharmacy Guiso, after traveling 21 km from Grândola. watching the birds among the riparian Supermarket However, we advise you to call in advance vegetation until we see the small village of USEFUL CONTACTS the Baracinha establishment, the only one Vale do Guiso, where we are welcomed by O Baracinha +351 265 637 158 Emergency: 112 in that village that can give you the support the isolated and grandiose Igreja de Nossa Forest Fires: 117 you need, as well as guaranteeing you the Senhora do Monte. We enter this 16th- POINTS OF INTEREST Grândola Fire department: short river crossing of the Sado river, which century baroque church, to admire the Santo António Church +351 269 498 450 is essential to continue the route to Alcácer carvings, paintings and the work of blue and 11 Mil Virgens Chapel GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 269 242 600 do Sal. and white azulejos, portraying the life of Senhor dos Mártires Sanctuary Our Lady. With an adventurous spirit, we We leave Grândola by going down the long scare away some storks as we climb the Avenida Jorge Nunes to the railway station stairs of the bell tower. The eyes explore the and, crossing the line, we turn left towards landscape over the village of Arêz and the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT Aldeia do Futuro. We pass the small village famous rice paddies that accompany the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt and we continue along long stretches of road river Sado. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, that becomes more and more sandy , with collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Vale do Guiso as destination. The landscape, We go down to the river and have lunch just bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals first a rural mosaic of small farms with diverse nearby, where we consider continuing to or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates cultures, changes to a typical pastureland hill Alcácer do Sal or staying at this same place and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. accompanied by some pine forests. We cross in Guiso... Deciding to continue the Path, we the first stream at the on a small weir, before ask Mr. Baracinha to transport us on the short In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians crossing the viaduct over the A2 motorway river crossing. On the other side of the bank, only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

Ribeira Alfebre Ribeira Vala Açudes Vala

N5 Barranco Meia Légua Meia Barranco Pores Aroa Vale o Giso Vale N253 Barrosina

EM

EM Ribeira Alcaçovas Ribeira Are EM543 N382

Barranco Valas N120 A2/IP1

EM1084

ALCÁCER DO SAL DO ALCÁCER Rio Arcão Rio

Rio Sado Aleia a Jsta

N120/IC1

N253

Ribeira Albergaria Ribeira Barranco Areia Barranco IC33 EM EM

Aleia o Ftro Ribeira Burgão Ribeira

Barranco Freixeira Ribeira Grândola EM1117

N261-2

Barranco Torrinha Barranco GRÂNDOLA Ribeira Pernada do Marco do Pernada Ribeira

N261-1 Barranco Brejo das Bicas das Brejo Barranco CENTRAL WAY stage Alcácer do Sal Casebres 11

On the way to Casebres

The human presence in the area mostly nomadic, it is only since the powerful Order of Santiago, that today composes the civil the Roman Period, or in the king D. Sancho II gave autonomy parish of São Martinho, whose last 2000 years, that we have to Cabrela, until then one of the headquarters is today located witnessed a more consistent castles Alcácer municipality, in in the village of Casebres, dates human setting in this region, the 20s of the 13th century. back to the mid- Prehistory. which defines the space extending north of Alcácer do Despite this creation of a However, it was only after the Sal. new centrality at the expense final conquest of Alcácer do Sal of Alcácer do Sal, both that the region and the most At that time, this vast territory municipalities continued to important toponyms began belonged to the Roman city of belong to the powerful Order of to appear in the historical Salácia (current Alcácer do Sal), Santiago at the administrative documentation, serving administrative practice and level, having to share, in the nowadays as a reference and cultural bond that would remain spiritual level, some aspects and geographical orientation for during the five centuries of the tithes with the Bishopric and those living in and visiting this following period, that correspond Archbishopric of Évora. territory. to the Islamic occupation of this region of Baixo (Low) Sado. In terms of documentary records, In a brief chronological overview, we have in the 13th century, in a considering that during the By the time of the war to period of a few decades after the millennia of the Pre and reconquest this territory to the definitive conquest of Alcácer Protohistory a large part of the kingdom of Portugal, almost (1217), the existence of Comenda population was reduced and always under the initiative of de Bemposta. It was donated by

Central Way | 71 the Order of Santiago to Maria referred for the first time, based milking and shearing. A small Martins Navarra and yielded 100 on known documents. percentage of the population pounds. works in factories or in services The current church, hospice and existing in the adjacent Shortly afterward, appears the attached houses, whose works municipalities. reference to St Martin, patron began in 1739, were born of saint and toponym of the the pious initiative of Francisco This area’s gastronomy benefits commune and the river that de Matos, from Alcácer, and his from the richness of the crosses its territory. family. Alentejo cuisine condiments. The Ensopado de Borrego (Lamb For centuries, the main church All this religious space was stew), the Açorda de Alho (Garlic was located on the site called ceded to a religious community bread soup), and the Migas "Freguesia" (Parish) and is today, of the Order of the Calced (Breadcrumbs) with entrecote by virtue of the administrative Carmelites and Third Parties. The are particularly appreciated. The arrangements of the 19th Main Church of São Martinho artisanal confectionery, such century, in the nearby town of was deactivated at a date, still as the pinhoadas, the pine and Montemor-o-Novo. The earliest undetermined, in the mid-19th honey cakes, the pine cups, and parish books date from 1651. or 20th century. the honey cakes, is based on the ingredients offered by the As a final note, some elements On December 8, 1966, the region. of historical nature regarding the headquarters of São Martinho’s church, hermitage, and hospice parish moved to the village of Although there are no organized of Nossa Senhora da Serrinha, Casebres. touristic structures, this civil which is nowadays the most parish gathers tourists in its important religious monument In Casebres, as in the rest of outdoor events, balls and popular of the commune. It is the only the Alentejo, the occupations festivals. Also of tourist interest, known hermitage that the Order are essentially agricultural, such we suggest the reservoirs of of the Calced Carmelites had in as cork harvesting, tomato Bemposta and Azenha Pintada, the municipality of Alcácer do and pine nuts collection, perfect for fishing and picnics Sal, as well as in the territory of eucalyptus planting and cutting, lovers. the Order of Santiago. There are tree extraction, among other some documental evidences agricultural and forestry works. The village of Casebres, within its that suggest the existence of this quietness and typical Alentejo hermitage in 1594. Although, we Some of the older people, characteristics, is an ideal only have certainties for 1729, especially men, perform work location for those who seek this at which time this hermitage is related to livestock, shepherding, region’s calm and serenity.

and also... Religious festivities in honnor of São Martinho − May Christmas "midnight" São João Festivities − June On this “Midnight” of Christmas, young people leave Joy Festival − August their home and occupy the abandoned hills, taking with them turkey, drinks, and seasonings to make a recipe. The tradition, unique in the country, is repeated in Casebres every year.

72 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Alcácer do Sal Casebres 11 Distance 23 km the parish church of São Martinho, Priory of agricultural estate here. They are waiting for us Maximum altitude 86 km the Order of Santiago, which established an in the Parish Council... VENDAS NOVAS Cumulative increase 342 km 22 km Cumulative descent -304 km Duration 5h45m TIPS USEFUL CONTACTS 3 Difficulty (0-5) Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Emergency: 112 CASEBRES a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Forest Fires: 117 and a map. 500 m 23 km 400 m PUBLIC ENTITIES WARNINGS 300 m Parish Council For questions related to accommodation, ALCÁCER

Elevation 200 m +351 265 649 124 DO SAL please contact the parish council. 100 m SUPPORT 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 23 km Bank/Cash Dispenser Distance Café Batista Café/Restaurante Sabores d’Campo The exit of Alcácer do Sal towards north After passing the wicket door, we walk seems a difficult task for those who travel by straight ahead until we find on the left the foot or bicycle. "Surrounded" by a motorway descent to the facilities of the estate, a future (A2) and a highway (IC1), on which the north rural hotel just over 1 km away. From here we exit's road (N5) converges, and enclosed climb the church hill, bypassing it on the left. by extensive private properties that fill the We continue through the dense and beautiful spaces between these roads, there are no safe cork oak forest for 5.5 km, to the wicket mobility solutions for the more sustainable door that allows us to leave the estate and forms of travel, which are walking and cycling. access the municipal road that will lead us to Casebres. Even so, the defined itinerary minimizes those impacts. It begins with the crossing From now on, we face the remaining 7.5 km of Avenida dos Aviadores (N5) to the east, with tranquility and without much effort, continuing through Avenida dos Clérigos until along a road practically flat and without Bairro do Venâncio. At the end of the avenue, traffic, with biodiversity as a company. we detour to the left, to a dirt track, until the next intersection. We advance between the Jardim Municipal (Municipal Garden) tables and benches and www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT We open and close the access gate to the continue through the Largo José Afonso. We www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt land in front, where the progression will be notice the calm and serenity of this village Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, hampered by the amount of loose sand. We typical of Alentejo. The inhabitants subsist collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't follow the fence on the right until we find the on the cattle, cork harvesting, tomato and bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals viaduct passing over the A2. pine cone harvesting, eucalyptus plantation or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates We get into the cork and holm oak forest, to and cutting, among other agricultural and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. reach the entrance gate of Herdade de Vale works. In November, Saint Martin’s Day is de Reis, with a large photoelectric power celebrated with dances, roasted chestnuts In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians station on our right side. and “água-pé” (piquette). We also visit only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

Barranco Cordeira

N253 Ribeira Alcaçovas Ribeira EM

Ribeira Ulmeira Barrosina

CASEBRES Ribeira Vale de Reis de Vale Ribeira

Ribeira Asseiceira ALCÁCER DO SAL DO ALCÁCER

EM

Ribeira Alberginho Ribeira

S. Martinho S. Ribeira de de Ribeira N120 N5 N5-1 N120/IC1 EM A2/IP1

Rio Sado

Ribeira Vale do Enxofral N253

EM

Limite interno estuário Rio Sado Rio estuário interno Limite Barranco Vale das Balsas das Vale Barranco EM Barranco Torrinha CENTRAL WAY stage Casebres Vendas Novas 12

With Vendas Novas as a baroque altarpiece of gilded and was commissioned by King destination, the Way leads wood carvings, from c. 1790, as D. João V in 1728 to serve the us to cross Cabrela. Because well as two Gothic images of workers who built the royal of its strategic relevance, it St Margaret and St Sebastian, palace, as it appears that the was donated to the Order of coming from ancient village ephemeral quarter where these Santiago before 1220, to be an chapels. workers lived was structured in intermediate post between its surroundings. One of its tanks the peninsula of Setúbal and served as a public washhouse. Alentejo. We can find there the Vendas Novas main church, whose current The name of the city probably configuration is the result of a Municipality finds its origin on the structures 17th-century construction that built there, inns or "Vendas" replaced the temple of medieval In 1526, D. João III ordered the (shops) that were called “Novas” origin, presumably located in opening of a road between (new) for being of recent a nearby site known as Outeiro Aldeia Galega do Ribatejo (now construction. da Igreja. In the main façade, Montijo) and Montemor-o- a discrete artistic composition Novo, to serve the postal mail. In Vendas Novas, you can find integrates the Order of Santiago A hostel was built in the place the Palácio das Passagens. As cross and the door bears the where Vendas Novas came to the name implies, it was built in year of 1704, possibly the date in be born. The royal fountain record time to house King João V which the works were finalized. occupies a peripheral area of and its extensive court for only In the interior, stands the late- Vendas Nova's urban perimeter two nights, on their “passage” to

5th Artillery Regiment

Central Way | 75 the border of Caia to exchange in the 16th century, but it king and queen chambers, and the princesses. D. Bárbara would was considered too small and there was still a chapel, now meet the future husband, the unworthy of a royal entourage. transformed into a worship place Spanish King Fernando VI, while In less than a year, 2000 workers of the infantry military regiment. D. Mariana Vitória, the bride of built the new palace, which had This military unit was installed in Prince José, would enter the three bodies, organized from the ancient palace from 1857. country. The place chosen had a central royal entrance with already a small palace, ordered a staircase. On top were the

Royal Chapel of Palácio das Passagens The Palace of Passages’ Royal Chapel was built by D. João V in 1728 to offer spiritual comfort to the royal family and guests during their stay in Palácio das Passagens. The Royal Chapel, now Capela da Escola Práctica de Artilharia (Chapel of the Artillery Academy), presents a simple layout, who is thought to be of the architect Custódio Vieira. The main façade reveals a small niche with an image of St Anthony composed in the interior of a single nave, a baptistery, a royal oratory, the sacristy, and the main altar, with João V style paintings in the background. In the altar, the image of Our Lady of Conception, from the end of the 17th century, stands side by side with that of St Barbara, brought when the chapel was passed to the army’s dominance.

and also... Bifana Fair − May Municipality Festivities − September Bifanas from Vendas Novas These marinated pork sandwiches are the gastronomic ex-libris of the area, a brand image that puts together all the Alentejo cuisine rooted in the municipality but stands out for its special recipe, with a secret sauce.

76 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Casebres Vendas Novas 12 Distance 22 km hamlet originated by a "Venda" (Sale), i.e., a small To accompany, the wines produced in the

BRANCA Maximum altitude 150 km area of commerce for muleteers and travelers, region, which are gaining space and recognition, Cumulative increase 409 km which was only significantly boosted by effect of so it is worth to visit a winery and be inebriated Cumulative descent -295 km the Palácio das Passagens construction (where with their particular aromas. In Vendas Novas we 33 km Duration 5h30m were based the Artillery's Militar Regiment No. also take the opportunity to visit the Queijaria Difficulty (0-5) 3 5 and the Museum of Artillery Academy No. 5). das Romãs, with a long history of artisan

VENDAS NOVAS production of fresh cheese, cottage cheese and, Its gastronomy is also "practical" as, perhaps due for connoisseurs, the "almece", a traditional 500 m to the high proportion of the military population Alentejo product, resulting from the whey curd 22 km 400 m and industrial workers, it is focused on the of sheep cheese. 300 m famous Bifanas de Vendas Novas (sandwiches of

CASEBRES Elevation 200 m pork meat) and various soups.

100 m

0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 22 km Distance TIPS HEALTH Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Vendas Novas Health Center a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, +351 265 809 000 From Largo da Igreja we cross Casebres Before returning to the Path, we learn a bit and a map. until Rua da Maforinha, which takes us to more about Cabrela's past, as we discover Pharmacy on the mother church’s main façade a the village periphery. Along 3.5 km we walk PUBLIC ENTITIES through a dense eucalyptus plantation, small image of the spatharios cross, also Vendas Novas City Council cyclically devastated for paper pulp evident in the locality’s blazon. We return USEFUL CONTACTS +351 265 807 700 Emergency: 112 production, so we can both walk under good to the entrance of the Herdade da Palhavã Forest Fires: 117 shade or a blazing sun. and follow a 3 km stretch of trodden SUPPORT Fire department: +351 265 807 170 sand, crossing cork and holm oak forests, CTT Post Office GNR − Vendas Novas Territorial Station: We then enter into extensive pine forest some creeks and herds pastures. We leave +351 265 809 780 where in some times of the year we can Herdade da Palhavã through another gate Bank/Cash Dispenser see groups of people collecting pine cones on the opposite side, and after 5.5 km we Vendas Novas Tourism Office to remove the pine nuts, and other resins, cross the viaduct over the A6 motorway and Supermarket with multiple industrial and consumer sight Vendas Novas already nearby. applications. We access the road to pass the bridge over the Marateca stream and we We walk another 3 km in macadam until we don’t come back to the forest. The missing reach Estrada da Afeiteira, which leads us to 3 km are completed through an almost the urban nucleus of Vendas Novas through deserted road until we enter Herdade da Avenida 25 de Abril. We pass a replica of a www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT Palhavã, which we’ll cross to reach Vendas windmill that should house the Tourism www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Novas town. However, considering the Office but, once it is closed, we continue to Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, fatigue and time of the day, we decide to the City Council, in Avenida da República, via collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't continue straight ahead another 1 km until Rua António Coelho de Oliveira, where we bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals Cabrela for a break and a “bifana” (pork finished today's stage. or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates sandwich)! We complement it with a Filhós and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. de Cabrela, a traditional sweet from the Vendas Novas is a young and "practical" city, village, nowadays appreciated in all coastal with no great traces of beauty or patrimonial In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians Alentejo. wealth. In the 18th century, it was still a mere only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

Ribeira Stª Susana Stª Ribeira Ribeira S. Romão S. Ribeira EM EM519 N4 VENDAS NOVAS VENDAS A6/IP7 EM

N380 Ribeira Vale de Figueira de Vale Ribeira

Cabrela Ribeira S. Martinho S. Ribeira EM CASEBRES

Ribeira Marateca EM539

EM Ribeira Cabrela Ribeira

EM

Ribeiro Vale da Barrosa da Vale Ribeiro EM

Ribeira Landeira Ribeira CENTRAL WAY stage Vendas Novas Branca 13

The village of Branca belongs the parcels was made in crops the monarch D. Carlos I ordered to the municipality of Coruche, produced there. the building of Vidigal palace. In the tenth-largest in the country, 2012, the line ceased passenger calling itself the "World Capital of The village has grown with transport. Cork". It is from here that 10% of agricultural works on the plain, Portugal’s cork is extracted and 5 near a road and close to the place We also find the Igreja de Nossa million cork stoppers leave every where there was an hostel. In the Senhora da Conceição de day. More than half of Coruche immediate vicinity, Herdade das Branca, a small church of recent is a mixed forest of cork oak and Figueiras estate was one of the construction with a single nave, pine trees, ensuring not only the largest rural employers of the practically in the center of the quality of cork, timber and pine 19th century. locality. nuts but also the ecosystem and pastures suitable for wild cattle Branca's settlement developed One of the many attractions of farms. rapidly, giving rise to a dense this commune is the Herdade cluster, at the time where the das Figueiras property and its Branca’s toponym is related to a settlement model used to chapel. In 1949, Gustavo Matos lady named Branca (White) who include a road close to a hostel. Sequeira included it in the owned a farmstead in this zone. Artistic Inventory of Portugal: This estate, formed by bush Here, we find the Apeadeiro de "A rustic house and property, in and grove, was sold by forums, Lavre, built between 1902 and Coruche moorland, belonged to and each plot was measured 1904. This railway halt served the Mr. Jorge Machado Castelo Branco 11,150 m2, and the payment of line of Vendas Novas, by the time (Figueira). Center of a typical

Central Way | 79 Tourism Branca is a place to feel. It is not enough to talk about it, tell its history or describe its landscape. A mystery surrounds the landscape, the land’s cultivation and the secular wisdom of its inhabitants, whose hospitality and sympathy are recognized. From gastronomy to handicraft, as well as the strong rooting of its traditions, are many of the reasons to delight us with a walk on this land. The civil parish of Branca enjoys a privileged location in terms of tourist attractions, due to its natural landscapes, its fauna and flora, and to the fact that it is very close to the Sorraia River. It enjoys a rich traditional cluster, in the style of the regional in the mid-20th century. Several culture, transmitted orally housing centers. Next to the important farming estates are through generations and Herdade is a hermitage dedicated located in Branca, of which diverging through the ages. to St Mary." stand out: Herdade das Figueiras, Branca’s civil parish is very Monte da Pestana, Monte dos proud of its architectural Long before the commune’s Pelados, Monte da Torre, Monte heritage, namely the main creation in 1984, the greatest da Água Boa, Monte das Mestras, church, venerating Our efforts were made in thisMonte da Abrunheira, and Monte Lady of the Conception, the direction, as there was already a do Trozoito. private Chapel of Herdade very important population core das Figueiras, as well as several manor houses.

and also... Branca's Culture and Sports Week − April Festival in Honnor of Nossa Senhora da Conceição − August

80 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Vendas Novas Branca 13 Distance 33 km We cross the road (EN251) and enter an area of Branca, on the Estrada dos Alemães road, Maximum altitude 150 km of plotted land, with many villas preceding the in front of the Parish Council, where today's arrival to the main cluster of the small village journey ends. SANTO ESTÊVÃO Cumulative increase 430 km Cumulative descent -488 km 17 km Duration 8h15m POINTS OF INTEREST 3 TIPS BRANCA Difficulty (0-5) Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Nossa Senhora da Conceição Church a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, 33 km 500 m and a map. HEALTH 400 m Health Center +351 243 610 500 300 m PUBLIC ENTITIES VENDAS NOVAS Pharmacy

Elevation 200 m Branca Parish Council

100 m +351 243 606 116

0 m SUPPORT USEFUL CONTACTS 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 30 km 33 km Emergency: 112 Distance CTT Post Office Forest Fires: 117 Bank/Cash Dispenser Canha Fire Department: +351 265 897 117 The Alentejo song says: "I just came back from visitors. A few kilometers further on, next to Coruche Tourism Office GNR Canha − National Republican Guard: the fields, I've already eaten/Today I'm going for the white gate with a yellow stripe, we turn +351 243 619 072 +351 265 897 860 a walk/I'm going to the "sale", I have a drink/I right onto the sand path and cross the Ribeira Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Branca come back early in the morning". And we also de Canha stream. We continue 5 kms up a Parish Social Center came to Vendas Novas, and now return to the slight hill, through a cork oak forest, until we Tasca das Madrinhas WARNINGS Path early in the morning! But not without pass the train line very carefully, next to the For questions related to accommodation, first supplying ourselves with an appetizing Monte da Sesmaria Nova. Café Restaurant O Pintor please contact the parish council. bifana for noon, as we won't find any Desigual Café/Pastry/Ice cream store restaurant in today's stage until the village of We follow the Path towards Monte de Frades, Branca. If we come in November, with some a farm in the valley of Ribeira de Lavre. We luck we’ll be able to see the Mostra das Sopas cross the estate through the middle of the (Soups Show), and add to our backpack a rice fields to the bridge leading us to the typical Alentejo "sopa de entulho"(meat and other bank of the stream, where we detour vegetable waste soup) or a homemade broth. to the left.

From where we are, we follow Avenida da We go around an airstrip, hidden within the República (coincident with the national forest, for 6 km on a sandy path between road N4), to the west and, at the second pine and cork oak forest, crossing once www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT roundabout, we turn right under the railway again the railway line at the Lavre’s train www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt line, and at the next roundabout to the left, halt, closed to passengers since 2012. We Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, to Estrada de Canha. A long stretch of road continue along the Herdade do Aszeiro road, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't awaits us along the N251-1, almost 9 km, passing through the middle of Monte da bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals through an authentic avenue of wild pine Torre, following the Lavre stream to Monte or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates trees that accompany us along the entire de Pelados. Here we move away from the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. length of the route. We pass Palácio do Vidigal Ribeira towards the north, in the direction of on the left, ordered by the king D. Carlos I, Branca civil parish, along the Caminho dos In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians which is now a private property closed to Pelados. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM N380 N4

EM Ribeiro Vale da Caneira da Vale Ribeiro NOVAS VENDAS EM EM EM

Ribeira Vale das Pegas

Ribeira Landeira

Vala Real Vala Ribeira Trejoito Ribeira

Rio Almansor Ribeira Vale de Cebolas de Vale Ribeira

Ribeira Lavre Ribeira BRANCA EM N251

Vala Asseiceira Vala Ribeira Lagoa do Calvo CENTRAL WAY stage Branca Santo Estêvão 14

Santo Estevão is a rural by the parish, point to the Saint Stephen is the patron saint commune located 16 km from human presence in this region of the parish, which adopted Benavente (County seat), with since prehistoric times. However, the same toponym. Stephen, a a total area of 62.41 km2 and the earliest reference to this Jewish deacon who spoke Greek, around 2000 inhabitants, small urban center dates back to was the first Christian martyr. according to the 2011 Census. the 14th century: Excellent preacher, he was The territory, besides the urban The Inventário dos bens móveis the object of great opposition agglomerate, comprises many e imóveis da Ordem de Avis and hostility, being at the end areas of cultivation and pasture (Inventory of movable and denounced and accused of and is located on the right bank immovable property of the blasphemy in the Sanhedrin (the of the river Almansor. The site of Order of Avis) dated 1364, refers supreme assembly of Jerusalem). Foros de Almada, an integral part to the herdades of Ribeira He was taken out of the city and of the commune, is 5 km from de Canha, among which the stoned to death. the village. following is designated: "Item outra coirela acima de San Stevã Known over the years not only que parte cõ Roi Gil e cõ Domingos by the current toponym but Bugalho e seus ereos". Therefore, The village also by Santo Estevão da Ribeira in this year there was already and Aldeia de Santo Estevão da a chapel with Saint Stephen A moorland area composed of Ribeira de Canha, it owes these as a patron, although without hills and valleys, some farms and names to the proximity of the certainties on its pastor. In the an enviable forest mantle rich in river Almansor also called, at this text of the Torre do Tombo of cork oak. But, it’s in its population crossing point, Ribeira de Santo the same Order, made in 1561, that lies the greatest wealth. Estevão or Ribeira de Canha. one may conclude that, by this Simple, honest and hardworking time, the hermitage already had people who, for generations, Several archaeological finds,its own pastor and "eighteen dedicated themselves to work discovered in the area delimited patrons". in the fields, on behalf of the

Central Way | 83 considerable agricultural and the wetlands of excellence for sporting and recreational livestock farms in the region. the stationing of migratory birds activities, which involve not only Monte do Zambujeiro, Monte from Europe. its inhabitants but many visitors dos Condes, Monte de Almada, from the nearest localities. Mata do Duque (Cadaval), Monte Over the years, the people of da Quinta and Monte do Termo Santo Estevão have always The municipality is equipped should have a particular highlight. been party lovers, whether with several collective facilities, Rich in crop fields mainly of it is religious or profane. The namely: a community meeting wheat and rice, and pastures processions in honor of Our house, a daycare center for the dominated by cattle, horses, Lady of Conception and Saint elderly with home support, a and pigs. Casa Cadaval, Manuel Stephen, patron saint of the gymnastic sports pavilion, a Luís Anastácio, and Anacleto de parish, outstand. The annual kindergarten, pre-school and 1st Moura were dedicated to the calendar is generous in cultural, Cycle, among others. creation of brave cattle, also used in agricultural works.

At the beginning of the 60s of the 20th century, the Equipagem de Santo Huberto (Saint Hubert’s Crew), dedicated to equestrian activities, settled in the village with a particular interest in fox hunting on horseback, with packs of trained dogs. The excellent natural conditions for the exercise of this sport brought to the region many national and foreign practitioners, enthusiasts Parisch Church of this modality. Overlooking the river Almansor (also known as Ribeira de Santo Estêvão), the Parish Church must have its origins in the 14th The village is rich in biodiversity century, when the locality is mentioned for the first time. In the and stands out for the 18th century, the parish priest was a member of the Order of São abundance of storks. It is Bento de Avis (St Benedict of Avis), an institution that held rights integrated (together with the over the locality since, at least, the 16th century. The church is municipalities of Benavente and a simple temple of a single nave that evokes the antiquity and Samora Correia) in the Natural relevance of the locality in this interior territory stretch. Reserve of Tejo’s Estuary, one of and also... Santo Estêvão Festivities − August of channels skirted by tábua, surrounded by an area for the Birdlife of Ribeira covered with cork oak, together with meadow pine. de Santo Estevão There also subsists a small palustrine area of the paul Covering the entire river valley, which includes the type, composed of a dense patch of willows and Site of Ornithological Interest, the Special Protection tábua. Vulnerable biotope (paul), important feeding Area for the Birdlife of Ribeira de Santo Estevão is an area for Limosa limosa during winter (rice fields). area of alluvial soils, occupied by rice fields, a network

84 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Branca Santo Estêvão 14 Distance 17 km TIPS Maximum altitude 96 km USEFUL CONTACTS Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Emergency: 112 10 km BENAVENTE Cumulative increase 156 km a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Forest Fires: 117 Cumulative descent -233 km SAMORA CORREIA and a map. Benavente Fire Department Duration 4h00m (Santo Estêvão section): +351 263 516 122 Difficulty (0-5) 2 16 km PUBLIC ENTITIES Santo Estêvão Parish Council SANTO ESTÊVÃO +351 263 949 216 500 m

17 km 400 m SUPPORT 300 m CTT Post Office

Elevation 200 m BRANCA Bank/Cash Dispenser 100 m Supermarket 0 m 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 17 km Santo Estêvão +351 917 323 679 Distance Monte de São José Hospedaria Some important agricultural properties are luxurious villas have been installed. At the end Monte dos Duques Hotel located on this moorland in Coruche, where of the road, we turn right to the tarmac road, the origin of the most Portuguese dish, and further on we cross the N119, next to Cozido à Portuguesa, is legitimately claimed. Almansor riverbed. After 1.3 km, through the POINTS OF INTEREST A place where different cabbages, sausages cultivated moorland and pastures, we come Santo Estêvão Church and vegetables are produced, the ingredients across Lusitano crossbreed horses, from Santo Estêvão Village of this wonderful stew. At the end we can’t Herdade do Zambujeiro. In the Coudelaria Ribeira de Santo Estêvão forgetting the typical desert Arroz Doce António Guerriero's equestrian training center, Special Protection Area for the Birds (sweet rice). there are coupling classes with sport horses. HEALTH From the asphalt of Estrada dos Alemães, We follow 2,7 km till the center of Santo we head to Branca’s exit. After 3.5 km, the Estêvão civil parish, near the municipal Pharmacy road bifurcates and becomes now a sandy market. The name of this locality comes from macadam, which we follow in the right lane. the first Christian martyr, the Jewish deacon Stephen. With convicted opinions and Over the next 7 km, large enclosed estates attempts to convert to Christianity, he was succeed each other on both sides of the road, accused of blasphemy and sentenced to a with extensive forestry explorations of little violent death, just outside the village. www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT landscape interest. The route can become www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt a bit tedious, but the fire prevention and Full of history and traces of ancient defensive Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, traveler's safety require it. fortifications, possibly from Roman times, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't this village belonged to the Order of Avis bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals 500 m before we reach the N119 road, we in the 16th century. As usual, we go to the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates turn left and proceed, still by macadam, until local parish council in order to collect the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. we enter into Mata do Duque forest, where necessary information for our stay.

In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. N251 BRANCA

Vala Real

Rio Sorraia EM

Ribeira Trejoito N251-1

Ribeira Vale das Mulheres EM EM

Rio Almansor

Ribeira Vale da Quinta

Rio Almansor EM N119 EM515 N10 A13

Ribeira Vale de Aivados EM SANTO ESTÊVÃO SANTO

Ribeira Vale de Lebres N118-1 EM CENTRAL WAY stage Santo Estêvão Samora Correia Benavente 15

Samora Correia owes its name to D. Paio Peres Correia, conqueror of much of southern Portugal in the first half of the 13th century and Grand Master of the Order of Santiago.

The locality was a Santiago commendation since, at least, 1270. The configuration of the main church is the result of a great reconstruction campaign, begun in 1718 and completed very quickly. The interior was coated with azulejos dated from c. 1724 and attributed to the Lisbon Master PMP. These tiles are one of the most complete iconographic projects dedicated to the life and apostolic legend of St James in the Iberian Peninsula, pilgrim and preacher who baptized his tormentor Josiah, converted Hermogenes, and defeated a group of masons who built a church (probably a pagan temple) contrary to the Church norms.

The fountain of Santiago evokes the vanished Igreja de Santiago church, destroyed by the earthquake of 1909, Main Church of Samora Correia that used to mark the village riverside front for centuries. The fountain was built in 1967 and Municipality Fountain has a niche with an image of Possibly dating from the time of the village foundation, this St James on the main face, and fountain of Medieval construction was the object of several the rear face is decorated with renovations. Despite that, it still preserves its original pointed a commemorative inscription of arch that used to give access to a vaulted brick construction. In the building and a cross of the the 18th century, it was said that its waters were indicated for Order of Santiago. eye treatments.

Central Way | 87 In the village, there is also completed in the 18th century. to manage the institution, and the Misericórdia de Samora The main altarpiece dates wooden sculpture of Our Lady of Correia, which originates from from this period, integrating a Mercy. The Misericórdia had an an ancient chapel of Espírito painting with the theme of the attached hospital, which is still Santo (Holy Spirit), possibly Visitation of the Blessed Virgin to recognizable in the surrounding built in the transition to the St Elizabeth (because visiting the architectural complex, and used 16th century. The church's sick is a mercy work), the throne to serve as a support for travelers current feature is the result of a of the Confraria do Espírito passing by the village. deep reconstructive campaign Santo’s brothers, who continued

Municipal Museum of Benavente Gathering a range of reference collections in the area of agricultural machinery, costume, photography, ceramics, and traditional crafts, the Municipal Museum was inaugurated in July 1980, housing a vast ethnographic collection gathered over some 40 years. It is housed in a former 18th century dwelling house and has a museological archive of twenty thousand pieces. and also... Procession to São Baco, Convent of Jericó − May gastronomy has, of course, a prominent place. At Coutada Velha's Festival − June Praça do Arroz you can attend showcookings and Festival in Honnor of N.ª Sr.ª da Paz − August tastings, and try out the many different dishes that Annual Fair and "Taverns" − September share the main ingredient: the rice. Apart from the "Carolino" Rice Festival festival area, there are several restaurants that include In May, Benavente celebrates the “carolino” rice at least one dish with “carolino” rice on the menu. of Ribatejo marchlands, in a festival where the

88 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Santo Estêvão Samora Correia Benavente 15 by the north entrance, at Rua Dr. Manuel Velho ahead, we discover a niche with the image of Distance 26 km Cabral Calheiros. On the left, we discover traces Santiago and the Order’s Cross, in the Fountain Maximum altitude 22 km of the walls that used to protect the village of Santiago. We finish this stage in the square of MUGE from the river floods, and the Cruz do Calvário the Municipality of Benavente, next to which are 19 km Cumulative increase 211 km Cumulative descent -209 km (Calvary’s Cross), from 1644. A few meters the Tourism services. Duration 6h30m Difficulty (0-5) 3 TIPS Infantado Palace, Samora Correia 10 km BENAVENTE Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Concelho Fountain, Samora Correia SAMORA CORREIA 500 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Calvary Wayside Cross, Benavente and a map. 400 m Benavente Pillory 16 km 300 m PUBLIC ENTITIES Benavente Agricultural Museum Nucleus SANTO 200 m ESTÊVÃO Elevation Benavente City Council Fields/Wheat Fields Biotope 100 m +351 263 519 600 Montados de Quercíneas (Plantations) 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 26 km SUPPORT Alluvial Valleys Distance CTT Post Office Stone Pine Zones We finish reinforcing our supplies in the hidden in the middle of the vegetation of a Bank/Cash Dispenser small Mercado de Santo Estevão market, in strategic hill on the left bank, is the Fortim HEALTH the central street, as we have ahead a quest de S. João Baptista de Belmonte blockhouse, Samora Correia +351 963 053 622 Benavente Health Center +351 263 516 775 of 15 km until Samora Correia, through the an outpost of the Knights of Santiago, dated Benavente +351 963 050 030 Pharmacy middle of the endless marsh of the Almansor 1207. Supermarket river. If a hot day is foreseeable, it is advisable Restaurant Boa Viagem, Samora Correia to do this stage in the early morning. The Finally, the marsh curves to the right and the USEFUL CONTACTS temperature can reach unbearable levels, Path too, going straight to the street that Restaurant O Lagar, Samora Correia Emergency: 112 and the only shadow we will find will be accesses the suburbs of Samora Correia, Restaurant Montagreste, Benavente Forest Fires: 117 the one projected by the motorway viaduct an old and prosperous village and hunting Benavente Fire Department: under which we'll have to pass. area for the nobility, dedicated to D. Paio POINTS OF INTEREST +351 263 519 790 Samora Correia Fire Department: Peres Correia, Grand Master of the Order of Samora Correia Main Church +351 263 651 122 At the end of the street is the old church Santiago. We walk along the Estrada do Brejo Misericórdia de Benavente church GNR Samora Correia − National Republican Igreja de Santo Estevão. Before arriving there, and, after Rua do Trabalho, we find the Igreja Guard: +351 263 650 020 next to the wall of a white and blue manor de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira church, where Jericó Convent, Benavente house, we cross the indicated door and we admire the iconography, the frescoes access the dirt track of Monte Novo de Santo and azulejo panels dedicated to Saint Estevão property, crossing the river. We James’ life in Portugal. In the same square www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT follow the Path to the right, passing through of Portuguese cobbled pavement is the old www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt the estate’s agricultural facilities, until we Palácio do Infantado, from the 17th century Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, find a wicket door on the property’s fence, which, after being burnt, was adapted into a collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't giving access to the domains of Companhia museum and library. bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals das Lezírias. From here there is no doubt. We or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates must continue straight ahead on the main We leave the city through Rua do Povo and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. road, through the middle of the partially Livre and, in the end, we continue on the flooded marsh, with the exclusive company left until we reach the Sorraia riverbank, In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians of flocks of a diversity of birds. Somewhere, which we’ll follow until Benavente, arriving only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM N118-1 EM515 EM

SANTO ESTÊVÃO SANTO Rio Lagos Rio HERDADE MONTE HERDADE NOVO DA RIBEIRA DA NOVO Ribeira Trejoito

Rio Sorraia A13 BENAVENTE

EM Rio Almansor N10/IC11 N118

Ribeira Vale Cobrão IC3 EM Saora Correia Correia Saora CENTRAL WAY stage Benavente Muge 16

Credits: José Júlio Cachado

The Way to Muge passes through two towers that were never built. the Renaissance palatine chapel, Salvaterra de Magos where, The tube organ, authored by the enlarged by Filipe I and D. João among the obligations of its most famous organ builder of V. Fairly damaged by fires and new residents, awarded with the time, António Machado and demolitions in the 19th century, a charter by D. Dinis in 1295, Cerveira, dates from 1825. there only remains a pale image was to build a main church. of the splendor the palace used The building was the object of Here you can also find the royal to have, especially in the height several modernizing campaigns, palace, of medieval origin, whose of baroque time, when he had an one of which was in the 16th Hall was known to have hosted opera house where many shows century, period to which belongs the ceremony of the marriage were performed. the baptismal font. Damaged contract signature between by the earthquake of 1755, the the Infanta D. Beatriz, daughter Muge was an important site reconstruction project of Igreja of D. Fernando I, and King D. during the Roman period, mainly Matriz de São Paulo integrated João I of Castile, an event that because of the proximity of azulejo tiles from Lisbon precipitated the revolution of Sabugueiro fluvial port, to which workshops and paintings by the 1383-85. The whole was rebuilt a uilla was associated. artist Bento Coelho da Silveira. It at the beginning of the 16th is a monumental church whose century by Prince D. Luís, who is The bridge is composed of a façade was designed to contain credited with the patronage of large, perfectly round arch, joined

Central Way | 91 by two other arches, probably Muslim minorities. A locality that as the local Council obliged built in medieval times. It was belonged to the Dukes of Cadaval, the monastery to rebuild the an important point of passage where they build their palace. building from 1712 presenting for those who were going to We can also find here the main a ruin menace. It is a temple of the province capital, Scallabis church, built at the end of the notable urbanistic impact, with (Santarém). 13th century by the patron saint a large and monumental façade, of Salvaterra de Magos, and held to which corresponds an interior It was in Paço de Muge that King for centuries by the monastery of a single nave with two side D. Manuel, in 1496, decreed the of Alcobaça. The ensemble chapels, where the altarpieces in expulsion edict of Jewish and evolved into a Baroque temple, Joanine wood carving stand out.

Escaroupim A fishing village by excellence, it was formed in the 30s of the 20th century by fishermen from Vieira beach in Marinha Grande, who took advantage of winter to transfer the fishing activity to the river Tejo. With seasonal use, the village is made up of rudimentary wooden constructions settled in stakes on the river, which guaranteed them protection against floods. Beyond these constructive aspects, the village is distinguished by the gaudy color of the boats and houses.

and also... Festivities in Honnor of Mártir São Sebastião − August Sometimes the potters paint the pottery pieces, Muge's Pottery but the most common in Muge is the glazed clay. Archaeological excavations have discovered traces Pieces such as water containers, vases, pots, jars, and of a Roman pottery furnace in Muge. Since then, jugs emerge from the potter's wheel. In spite of its the potter's wheel didn’t stop. In the typical Muge antiquity, the pottery of Muge continues to develop pottery, everything is executed as in the past: the thanks to the potters’ effort and commitment, potter hands knead the clay which, after being contributing to the maintenance of the clay work molded, is dried and cooked in a wood-fired oven. tradition with their art.

92 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Benavente Muge 16 Distance 19 km Since this is not our option, we move on to the north, with 400 m of extension, which served Maximum altitude 19 km entrance of Muge, looking for the Parish Council part of the Roman road that used to connect the SANTARÉM Cumulative increase 182 km street, where we rush to ask for directions about Alentejo to Santarém. Before the day ends, we Cumulative descent -185 km the available accommodation, which is not rest at Casa Cadaval, an estate with 400 years of 20 km Duration 4h30m abundant around here. As we explore the village, history. Difficulty (0-5) 2 we can find the Roman bridge of Muge in the MUGE

500 m 19 km Duke's Palace - Cadaval House 400 m TIPS

300 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Muge Shell-middens BENAVENTE a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Rainha D. Amélia Railway Bridge

Elevation 200 m and a map. 100 m Muge Pottery 0 m PUBLIC ENTITIES 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km 19 km Distance Muge Parish Council +351 243 581 130 USEFUL CONTACTS Emergency: 112 We return to Praça do Município to begin that take place regularly. Continuing along SUPPORT Forest Fires: 117 today's stage and head towards the river Rua do Tejo, we observe a small "marina" CTT Post Office on Rua Dr. Ruy Azevedo, along the pleasant and, on the right, we also find the Capela Real WARNINGS garden Jardim da Fateixa, on the Sorraia (Royal Chapel), from the 17th century, with Bank/Cash Dispenser riverbanks. We cross the river over the white renovation works during the Rococo period. Escaroupim Camping For questions related to accommodation, pedestrian bridge, on the right, and continue +351 263 595 484 please contact the parish council. along the trail in the strip that separates the We pass the bridge over the Vala Real (Royal cultivated lands. We pass under the viaduct of Valley), which was used to the transport of POINTS OF INTEREST the N118 national road and continue the path goods and for the royal family's boat when Nossa Senhora da Conceição Church through the fields. they visited this locality. Soon we arrive at the Nossa Senhora da Glória Chapel junction that indicates the picturesque village Muge Roman Bridge Still avoiding the busy and narrow N118 road, of Escaroupim to the left. Here, we take a we get into the side fields, which may be break to visit the museum, the stilts port and submerged, thus forcing us to go up back to the old "avieira" houses, preserved in their the road. In any case, 1 km ahead we’ll have original state for the tourists. to do it, in a dangerous intersection, following on the left through the secondary road to We leave Escaroupim still on Rua do Tejo, Salvaterra de Magos. If we would choose the which bifurcates a little further on. We follow www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT right we would find Aldeia do Peixe, about 5 the road on the left that takes us to the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt km beside the Sorraia river, a place with many campsite and continues on a pleasant and Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, records of the "avieiros" fishermen culture. fresh path for 4 km through the Escaroupim collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Forest until a level crossing. Shortly after, we bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals At the end of the Estrada do Convento, we arrive at a crossroad where, turning left, we or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates enter the village through Rua do Tejo where, could go to Ponte Rainha D. Amélia bridge and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. right at the entrance, we find the Falcoaria over the Tejo and, from there, intersect with

Real (Royal Falconry). If you have time, watch the Path to Santiago coming from Lisbon, by In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians a demonstration of this art, in the sessions the Tejo river northern bank. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

EM MUGE A13 N367 EM

Ribeira Magos N114-3 N118 EM PORTO DE MUGE PORTO EM EM EM ESCAROUPIM EM VALADA EM N3-2 ALDEIA DA PALHOTA ALDEIA DA

REGUENGO Rio Tejo Rio Rio Sorraia SALVATERRA DE MAGOS SALVATERRA BENAVENTE EM515 N3-3 N118-1 EM

EM Rio Maior Rio CENTRAL WAY stage Muge Santarém 17

Church of Graça | Santarém

Cathedral of Santarém Tomb of Pedro Álvares Cabral

In the commune of Almeirim, before arriving at Ribeira de Gate of Santiago Santarém, the Igreja de Santa It was the main door of Santarém castle, for that reason called "Porta Marta, in Benfica do Ribatejo, da Alcáçova", whose first mention dates from 1249. The present inspires a visit. It was built in designation derives from the invocation of the church where the the 18th century as a chapel sidewalk connecting the plateau’s spur of the plateau to the river of Quinta de Santa Marta, an used to pass. Until the 16th century, it also served as access to the extensive agricultural estate that village, through a way considered unrecoverable in 1797. In it, one dominated the region since the can see a “Fernandinos de Portugal” coat of arms that documents late Middle Ages. The ensemble the town walls reinforcement. There is also no memory remain of was fully restored in the late the Hospital de Jesus Cristo, which was located in this pathway and 20th century, as attested by allowed the support of pilgrims and travelers who came to the city. It the commemorative inscription is currently crossed by the numerous pilgrims of the Way to Santiago. placed on the main façade.

Central Way | 95 Alcorce Brigde Built between the end of the 19th century and the first half of the14th century, the Alcorce bridge was the main city exit to the north, towards Tomar and Coimbra, crossing the Vala de Alcorce or Palhais, a small affluent of Tagus river. Endowed with four round arches, it also exhibits a structure with two rampant hauls, as was frequent in the Romanesque bridges. In front of the bridge, on the side of Ribeira de Santarém, is the fountain of Palhais, the last source for those who left Santarém towards north.

Church of Santa Maria da Alcáçova This church, the religious seat of the power established by the Order of the Temple in the city after the conquest of 1147, was built around 1154 and instituted as a royal chapel by D. Afonso Henriques. Three years later, it was constituted as collegiate and enjoyed of ample protagonism in Middle Age. The current church, where Roman capitals have been reused as a mark of the temple’s prestige and antiquity, is the result of a campaign of the first decades of the 18th century. The campaign was sponsored by D. Rodrigo Teles de Meneses, descending from a family with great tradition in the city.

and also... Santarém Municipal Festivities − March the agriculture area, and takes place during the month Santarém's National Gastronomy Festival − of June. It is known for its rich ethnographic values, October patented at the International Folkloric Festival, bull Agriculture National Fair/Ribatejo's Fair races, campinos (cattle herders) races, halter games, It is the biggest tourist attraction in the country, bullfights, equestrian competitions, and horse raids, considered one of the most important of Europe, in among others.

96 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Muge Santarém 17 Distance 20 km We enter this old port of fluvial commerce century, that used to serve the local population, Maximum altitude 37 km following the road N365 sidewalk, crossing which grew a lot between 1218 and 1260. At that Cumulative increase 127 km the railway line and finishing the stage in the time, the bustling village was a building site to GOLEGÃ Cumulative descent -123 km local Parish Council, which is eager to welcome support the construction of large monasteries in 32 km Duration 4h30m us. Behind us, we leave Igreja de Santa Cruz, a the region. Difficulty (0-5) 2 beautiful Gothic church from the mid-19th

SANTARÉM

500 m TIPS Junqueira Fountain 20 km 400 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Alcorce Bridge a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, 300 m São Tiago Gate and a map. MUGE Elevation 200 m Cabaças Tower 100 m PUBLIC ENTITIES Portas do Sol Belvedere Garden 0 m Câmara Municipal de Santarém, 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km 20 km Distance Divisão de Turismo +351 243 304 258 HEALTH Santarém Hospital SUPPORT + 351 243 300 200 Leaving from the Parish Council, we turn left region whose wines have been increasingly CTT Post Office to Rua Almirante Reis, accompanying the recognized and the main wineries (to visit!) Pharmacy Bank/Cash Dispenser building of Casa Cadaval. We have the Roman already assume high levels of production and bridge in front of us, but we don’t cross it, quality. Tourism Office +351 243 304 437 USEFUL CONTACTS continuing instead to the right under the POINTS OF INTEREST Emergency: 112 viaduct of the N114 national road, until we We enter Rua Direita towards the village Forest Fires: 117 find another bridge over which we cross the center, former land of fishermen, now "just" Alcáçova Church Santarém Fire Department: Muge stream. of "campinos" (bull herdsmen), full of courage Vale Figueira Main Church +351 243 377 900 and dressed up, with the red hat, while Santarém Fire Department: Misericórdia Church Archaeological sites with large accumulations dancing the Ribatejo fandango. We leave +351 243 333 122 of shells, animal remains and hundreds of the village also through Rua Direita again. At Santa Maria de Marvila Church GNR − Santarém Territorial Station: human skeletons of a species not yet fully the crossroad to Cortiçóis we turn left and Santarém Cathedral +351 243 300 070 PSP − Public Security Polic: +351 243 322 022 identified, which have lived here for about 5 continue along the Vala de Alpiarça. We pass Diocesano Museum of Santarém thousand years, the Concheiros de Muge, were under the motorway viaduct and turn left discovered along this stream. These are the again to cross Quinta do Casal Monteiro. We most famous and rich places of Portuguese take the opportunity to have lunch and enjoy prehistory. At the Concheiro da Moita do a degustation of the region's wines with an Sebastião, for example, we can find traces appropriate setting. www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT of circular huts of logs and clay, silos on the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt ground to preserve food, and graves ritualized After 3.5 km, we enter the village of Tapada. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, with ochre and stones under their heads. By asphalt, we follow and climb a path to collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't meet the N114 again. We now cross the bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals Through a path of fine sand, first, and then Ponte D. Luís over the Tejo, which in 1881 or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates through a narrow rural road, we advance was the third largest bridge in Europe. On and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. through the immense cultivated or fallow the opposite bank, on the right, we head to areas that lead to Benfica do Ribatejo. Nearby, Santarém stream, to avoid walking up to the In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians the vineyard becomes predominant, in a city now, which we'll try to visit later. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

EM578 Aleiri Ribeira Ulme Ribeira

N368 Ribeira Falhão A13 N114 EM

Ribeira Vale da Fonte da Moca SANTARÉM N118

IC10 Ribeira Muge Ribeira EM365

EM Rio Tejo Rio

Ribeira Vale de Coelheiro MUGE

EN365 Ribeira Fontainhas Ribeira N3 EM EM Rio Maior EM PORTO DE MUGE PORTO EM N3-3 A1/IP1 CENTRAL WAY stage Santarém Golegã 18

José Saramago, after the spent part of his youth there. In inhabitants of Azinhaga erected journey that gave origin to the the central square of the village, a chapel dedicated to São work Viagem a Portugal, said José Saramago (1922-2010) is Sebastião, patron saint against that "the end of one trip is just sitting on a bench, as if observing that epidemic. Much modified in the beginning of another. It is the life of the locality that unfolds the 19th century, it is currently necessary to see what has not under his watchful eye. in ruins. The Capela de São José, been seen, to see again what has dated from the 17th century, already been seen, to see in spring The passage through Azinhaga has the peculiarity of keeping its what was seen in summer, to see can be enriched with the visit to original bell, bearing the name by day what was seen at night ... the ruins of Capela de S. Sebastião. of its promoter (Gaspar Serrão, We must return to the steps that In 1570, raging the plague, the 1634), possibly an important were given, to repeat them, and to chart new ways". He would speak in a figurative sense and it would seem to refer to the Ways of Santiago. There are no records that he has followed it but that, coincidentally, the Way crosses Azinhaga, the village where José Saramago was born in 1922.

Azinhaga

"In the midst of night peace, among the high branches of the tree, a star appeared to me, and then, slowly, it was hiding behind a leaf, and, while I was looking in another direction, like a river running silently through the sky concave, came the opalescent clarity of the Milky Way, the Way of Santiago, as we still called it in the village."

Signed by the sculptor Arnaldo Ferreira and dated 2009, the bronze statue of José Saramago evokes the figure of the only Portuguese writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature (1998), who was born in Azinhaga and Chapel of São José - Azinhaga

Central Way | 99 inhabitant of Azinhaga who the local Misericórdia heritage of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos lived in the palace fronting the was built around a hostel that in Lisbon. The current feature temple, known today as Solar existed in the vicinity of St of the temple is the result of a da Família Serrão de Faria. Also, Joseph’s church. The Igreja Matriz profound restoration carried out the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da da Golegã is one of the most in the 20th century, when gilded Conceição, the main church of important Manueline churches woodwork altarpieces were Azinhaga, is a place of obligatory and seat of the Order of Christ removed, which had enriched visit. Documented since 1297, local Commendation. Golegã's the church in baroque times, the church still preserves main church was built after and azulejo panels from the the medieval coverings of 1501, probably by the architect Convento da Graça, in Santarém, the apse. At the end of the Boytac (Boitaca), the first author were introduced. 16th century, the temple was substantially transformed by the Order of Christ, who established a commendation here. The building has gained monumentality, as well as the elegant interior with thin arches in the naves and a coffered cover in the main chapel. Until the end of the 18th century, the church was enriched with artistic and devotional elements, of which the polychrome carved altarpieces stand out.

Golegã House-Studio of José Relvas An obligatory point of passage This chalet was the residence, laboratory, and studio of for those who crossed the north photographer José Relvas, built between 1871 and 1875, and of the Lezíria Ribatejana (Ribatejo completely restored between 2002 and 2007. It is a singular marshland). An ancient tradition house-museum that evokes the importance of the photographic admits that the origin of Golegã work of its promoter, but also his eclectic postmedieval and “post- was an hostel for travelers and manueline” taste. On the second floor, the photography studio pilgrims, served by the chapel privileged the use of iron and glass,whose light was controlled by dedicated to Our Lady of mechanical processes for window darkening. Albergaria. In the 17th century, and also... Expo Égua − May all the breeders are introduced and the best-thorou- Olé Golegã − September ghbred horses are sold to the whole world. Golegã has National Horse Fair long become the Capital of the Horse. In November it Feira da Golegã was born in the middle of the 18th presents, through rallies, raids, equestrian games and century, known until 1972 as Feira de S. Martinho, date exhibitions, exemplars of one of the most beautiful from which it became the National Horse Fair. Here, animals in the world: the horse.

100 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Santarém Golegã 18 Distance 32 km TIPS POINTS OF INTEREST Maximum altitude 111 km Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, São José Chapel TOMAR Cumulative increase 204 km a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Azinhaga Main Church Cumulative descent -287 km 29 km and a map. Duration 8h00m Golegã Main Church− Nossa Senhora Difficulty (0-5) 3 da Conceição GOLEGÃ PUBLIC ENTITIES Golegã City Council Pombalinho Main Church +351 249 979 050 500 m Paul do Boquilobo Biosphere Reserve 32 km 400 m Azinhaga Parish Council Quinta da Cardiga +351 249 957 140 300 m Carlos Relvas Studio-House SANTARÉM Golegã Parish Council Elevation 200 m EquusPolis − Martins Correia +351 249 976 279 100 m Municipal Museum Pombalinho Parish Council 0 m José Saramago Foundation 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 30 km 32 km +351 249 459 401 Typewriter Municipal Museum Distance Pombalinho Community Meeting House Before heading to the next stage of the (Sale) in the place where the village was born, +351 243 459 120 Rural Museum Paths of Santiago, Golegã, we must convince and the name Golegã resulted from "Venda Azinhaga Holy House of Mercy Museological Nucleus of the Portuguese ourselves to leave behind the beautiful da Galega" (Galician Sale). At that time, the +351 249 957 129 Centre for Geo-History and Prehistory panoramic balcony of the Portas do Sol, with site was highly frequented by travelers going Golegã Holy House of Mercy the viewpoint integrated into the old walls of from Santarém to the north, namely by the HEALTH Santarém, facing the river Tejo and the vast Roman road that connected Lisbon to Braga, +351 249 979 110 Golegã Health Center fields of Ribatejo. through Tomar. Maybe that's why the horse +351 249 979 180 has assumed a central role, along with the SUPPORT We proceed to the hidden Porta de Santiago wine and the bulls. CTT Post Office Pharmacy gate, near the Igreja da Alcáçova church, and descend the slope towards the Tejo, along In November, the most important National Bank/Cash Dispenser USEFUL CONTACTS the Santiago sidewalk, with some degree Horse Fair in the country attracts thousands Golegã Tourism Office Emergency: 112 of difficulty. In the riverside neighborhood of visitors who come to toast to São Martinho Táxis Golegã +351 249 976 459 Forest Fires: 117 of Ribeira de Santarém, where the railway with chestnuts and “água-pé” (Piquette). Golegã Fire Department: station is located, we find the Igreja de Golegã Camping +351 249 979 070 Santa Iria church, which displays a wooden The stage ends next to the Main Church, GNR − National Republican Guard: sculpture of a black Christ crucified but only adorned with a richly sculpted Manueline +351 249 979 030 nailed to the cross by one arm. doorway, in front of which the old Estrada Real (Royal Road) between Lisbon and Porto used After crossing the small medieval bridge to pass. Behind it is the Tourism Office, where of Alcorce, we meet again the fertile fields you can find out about the various options www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT of Tejo's marshlands, in a succession of for your stay, which are expanded every www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. extensive farms, ditches and streams that year with new offers of hostels and other www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic lend a bucolic and muddy rural scenery to our accommodation units specially prepared for waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, progress along the Path. pilgrims and travelers to Compostela. collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates It is an equally extensive and flat stage, like If you feel like, don’t miss to visit the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not the previous one, with no difficulties worthy Photography Museum Casa José Relvas, with vandalize the Paths signage. of note, that crosses the Vale de Figueira and a studio unique in the world, from the very Azinhaga villages. "Galega" (Galician) would beginning of image capture, and the Cultural In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians be the name given to an existing “Venda” Center Equuspolis, where it’s all about horses. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

N243 EM EM

EN365-4 Rio Alviela GOLEGÃ

EM Rio Almonda N3

A1/IP1

EM567

EM EN365-1 Ainaga Casa

Pobalino

N243

N365

Vale e Figeira EM

Alanies

EM EM

Ribeira de Cabanas EN368-1

EM

Aliara

EN368

SANTARÉM N118

N114 EM

EM Aleiri

Rio Tejo IC10 EM578 CENTRAL WAY stage Golegã Tomar (Center) 19

Golegã is a village of the Way, old Templar castle. The works 1617, in the time of his nephew, not only in the literal sense but continued between 1592 and Friar Pedro Moniz. mainly because, everywhere we look, we find evidence of the presence and passage of the travelers going to Santiago de Compostela. Being a smaller and quieter village than Santarém, it facilitates the relations between people of different nationalities and generations who arrive at a continuous rhythm, so services targeted to pilgrims appeared. Additionally, the rural and picturesque atmosphere, the friendliness of the people and, of course, the good gastronomic offer. We feel good in Golegã!

Integrated on D. Afonso Henriques’ donations to the Order of the Temple in 1169, Quinta da Cardiga had its own commander since the 14th century, which confirms the locality importance as part of the possessions of the Order of Christ. The current configuration of the palace dates back to a profound renovation carried out by Friar António de Lisboa, that preserved the tower of the Quinta da Cardiga e também... Templar Festival − July Convento de S. Francisco. The collection was born Visitable Collection - Museum of Matches with an exchange of boxes between Mota Lima and The Museum of Matches is a collection of 60,000 an American lady during a sea voyage, on their way boxes, labels, and matchboxes, donated by Aquiles to London for the ceremony of Queen Elizabeth II’s da Mota to the Council in 1980, conserved in the coronation.

Central Way | 103

CENTRAL PATH stage Golegã Tomar (Center) 19 Distance 29 km TIPS Maximum altitude 150 m USEFUL CONTACTS Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Emergency: 112 Cumulative increase 389 m TOMAR a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Forest Fires: 117 Cumulative descent -355 m and a map. Tomar Fire Department: Duration 7h15m +351 249 329 140 Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES GNR − Tomar Territorial Station: 29 km Tomar City Council +351 249 320 060 +351 249 329 800 PSP Tomar − Public Security Police: 500 m +351 249 328 040 400 m Tomar Civil Protection: +351 249 324 030 SUPPORT GOLEGÃ 300 m Tourism Office +351 249 329 823

Elevation 200 m

100 m HEALTH 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 29 km Hospital Distance +351 249 320 100 Pharmacy Today's stage is a "frontier" one, which the possession of the Order of Christ, the means that it connects the Ribatejo region historic Quinta da Cardiga still belongs to the with the central region of Portugal, ending imaginary of the population and those who in the city of Tomar, after about 30 km of visit it, with a halo of a certain mysticism. It is journey. Leaving the natural border of the one of the most impressive properties in the Tejo river in Vila Nova da Barquinha, almost country, unfortunately in an advanced state everything is gradually changing, but that’s of degradation. However we can still see already another part of the Path... the gardens and horticultural gardens, the palace, the chapel and the cloister, the barn To leave Golegã, we cross the village along and stables and even an old press. We can Rua D. Afonso Henriques, followed by Rua Dr. also admire the Christ’s Cross on the façade Branco, to the outskirts of the city. We cross of the main house and the tower of the old the national road N243 and take the sand Templar castle. It was one of the guard posts path straight ahead until it ends in a narrow of the Order's militia, and a vital strategic rural road. We turn left and face a few flat place for the Knights Templar. kilometers flanked by extensive cornfields and plantations that take advantage of the We cross the leafy avenue that follows fertile land on this Tejo riverbank. the palace façade to a small bridge over a www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT polluted stream, where the asphalt ends. www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Before arriving to Quinta da Cardiga, the From now on, we continue the Path to the Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, small village of São Caetano welcomes us north, to the village of Pedregoso, the final collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't with some places that deserve our brief point of the Caminho de Santiago Central in bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals passage, including a hostel for pilgrims the Alentejo and Ribatejo. Next, we enter the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and the Ermida de São Caetano hermitage. municipality of Vila Nova da Barquinha and and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. Donated to the Order of the Knights Templar the central region of Portugal. Have a good by D. Afonso Henriques, later transferred to Path! In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM Vila Nova a Barina Vila Nova

Peregoso Rio Tejo Rio So Caetano So N110

Ribeira da Atalaia Qinta a Cariga

Ribeira de Santa Catarina EM Entronaento N365 GOLEGÃ EM571 EM N365 EM EM N243 WAYS GUIDE

Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo

Central − via Tagus Eastern Way Way

Alentejo e Ribatejo

CENTRAL WAY VIA TAGUS stage Vila Franca de Xira (Lisboa) Azambuja 1

The origin of Azambuja possibly dates back to the 3rd century BC, when the Romans invaded the Iberian Peninsula. At the time, they called it Oleastrum (olive tree oil), probably for being very rich in olive oil and having a strong production of it.

Later, inhabited by the Arabs, it was named Azzabuja, meaning wild olive grove, which leads us to think that perhaps the "Roman" olive trees no longer existed. Main Church of Azambuja In 1147, Azambuja was The church was built in the middle of the 16th century, a period to reconquered to the Arabs by D. which correspond the main and lateral portals, both Mannerists. Afonso Henriques, who gave it The main chapel, especially its vault, still recalls Manueline to D. Childre Rolim as a reward influences, with broad ribs and keystones. The church has the for his heroism and for deviating particularity of having the south lateral portal more monumental himself from the Crusade to the than the western since it’s the one facing the main square of the Holy Land to help him in the village. The essence of its filling dates from a period of about 100 Siege of Lisbon. D. Childre Rolim years, between the end of the 16th century and the end of the populated it and named it Vila following century. The Tree of Jesse, placed in the altarpiece of Franca. However, the village lost Our Lady of the Rosary, dates from 1595. The canvas referring to its name after a short time. D. the Calvário (Calvary) is attributed to the workshop of the painter Childre or D. Xira (as he was also André Reinoso. Also worthy of note is the 17th-century azulejo known) was later the founder flooring and the proto-baroque altarpiece dating from 1686 and of Vila Franca de Xira and, after done by the engraver Manuel da Fonseca. moving to the new site, with the purpose of construction and settlement, the village had to Since the beginning of your journey, in Vila Nova da Rainha, you resort to the old name attributed must have noticed a profusion of blue arrows alongside the by the Arabs, becoming known yellow ones that signal the Caminho de Santiago. And, when you as Azambuja. find the first signpost of the Way you will notice that there is also another mark, the Caminho de Fátima, here the one of Tejo. In The village of Azambuja was fact, up to Santarém, the pilgrims' journey to the Santuário de granted a charter by D. Sancho I Fátima coincides with the one to Santiago. So, you will certainly in 1200, confirmed by D. Afonso have fellow Way travelers, particularly in May and October, II in 1218. In 1513 it had a new during which, on the 13th of each of these months, the most charter passed by D. Manuel. important celebrations take place.

Central Way via Tagus | 109 In 1531, due to an earthquake nationally and internationally, social development of the region, of great magnitude, Vila de which foster the economic and mainly through job creation. Azambuja was badly damaged. Azambuja is connected to the Tejo by means of the so-called Vala Real de Azambuja, a ditch which comprises an extension of 26 km, built by Marquês de Pombal in 1748 with the purpose of irrigating fields.

In the south, the countryside is characterized by the fertile and verdant plains of the Lezírias (marshlands), by the horses and herds of wild cattle, which leads Azambuja to be closely linked to the world of bullfighting - the "Festa Brava". In the north, the dominant economic activity is Palace of Obras Novas/Vala Real agriculture: intensive and family- oriented polyculture. Parisch Church of Santa Marta – Vila Nova da Rainha In addition to the great The legend says that it was in this church that D. Nuno Álvares importance of the primary Pereira married Leonor de Alvim on August 15, 1376. The church sector in the commune’s must date from the 13th century, at the time in which the village development of the county, began to gain importance in the royal itineraries from Lisbon to Azambuja has become heavily the north. The current temple is the result of a reconstruction industrialized. Benefiting from carried out in the Baroque period, possibly following the its exceptional location and earthquake of 1755, as the main façade denounces. In the excellent accessibility, namely interior, the long blue and white azulejo cycle, from the second the A1 and the railways, it has half of the 18h century, depicting scenes from the life and legend attracted investment from of Santa Marta, stands out. accredited companies, both

and also... ÁVINHO − Wine and Taverns Festival − April its popular involvement. Snail Festival − June The event is the cultural celebration of a community Centennial May Fair and people who has Tauromachy inscribed in its The May Fair is the great banner of Azambuja’s identity identity and cultural matrix. It is now a place and and visibility. Fruit of a persistent socioeconomic moment of conviviality and sociability, annually rebirth and a constant socio-cultural re-creation, the shared by Azambuja with thousands of visitors. Fair is recognized as the most popular of Ribatejo for

110 | Central Way via Tagus CENTRAL PATH VIA TAGUS stage Vila Franca de Xira (Lisboa) Azambuja 1 This stage finishes in the Praça do Município, an saint Nossa Senhora da Assunção, where the Distance 26 km ample square topped by the church of the patron most diverse local festivities take place. Maximum altitude 22 km SANTARÉM 211 km Cumulative increase TIPS Nossa Senhora da Assunção Cumulative descent -209 km Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, de Azambuja Main Church 33 km Duration 6h30m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Sebastião Mateus Arenque Municipal Museum Difficulty (0-5) 3 and a map. Azambuja Library AZAMBUJA Industrial Chimney in the Urban Garden 500 m PUBLIC ENTITIES 22 km 400 m Azambuja City Council Aviation Panels, Vila Nova da Rainha 300 m +351 263 400 400 Azambuja Pillory VILA FRANCA

DE XIRA (Lisboa) Elevation 200 m Azambuja Parish Council Azambuja Landmark 100 m +351 263 402 647 Lezíria Ribatejana (Marshland) 0 m Vila Nova da Rainha Parish Council Tagus River 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 26 km +351 263 853 360 Distance Vala Real Santa Casa da Misericórdia de Azambuja "The Tejo unites different feelings, as if it wanted Avenida Gago Coutinho, we see on the left +351 263 418 602 to be the elder of a large family that everyone the wide terrain where the national aviation HEALTH admires and respects." (Francisco Hipólito cradle was once located, inaugurated in 1915. SUPPORT Azambuja Health Center +351 263 407 600 Raposo, "Ribatejo") In this Aviation School of Vila Nova da Rainha, CTT Post Office Sacadura Cabral was a pilot instructor and Pharmacy Bank/Cash Dispenser The Tejo is also the link that unites the regions of later, in 1922 together with Gago Coutinho, he Lisbon and Ribatejo, guiding us along the Lezírias would make the first air crossing of the South Tourism Office +351 263 400 476 USEFUL CONTACTS do Tejo (Tagus marshlands) to the small town Atlantic to ! Táxis Emergency: 112 of Vila Nova da Rainha, which is "da Rainha" (of Forest Fires: 117 Azambuja Fire Department: the Queen) because it was in Santa Marta Main After the railway station, with the city of POINTS OF INTEREST +351 263 401 144 Church that king D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Azambuja on the horizon, we follow the railway São Sebastião Chapel GNR − Azambuja Territorial Station: Countable, who was largely responsible for the line, an occasion to enjoy the Tejo alluvial Senhor Jesus da Misericórdia Church +351 263 418 841 independence of the Portuguese Kingdom, got valleys, and the abundant bird life with the Stork Vila Nova da Rainha Civil Protection: married in the 14th century. and the famous Royal Heron well represented. Santa Maria das Virtudes +351 263 403 720 Church and Convent We pass the only bridge over two rivers (Ota The trail that takes us to Azambuja ends by and Alenquer) in Portugal and enter the village passing under the railway viaduct and we at lunchtime, where the perfect symbiosis return to the N3 road, arriving right at the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT between the marshland and the Tejo river southern entrance of Azambuja, a city with www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt takes the form of a typical "Caldeirada à centuries of history. Turn left at the intersection Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, Fragateiro" (fish dish), accompanied by good and follow Avenida de Valverde. collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't bread and wine. But we mainly remember bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals a surprising and unique Chèvre cheese, It was here that the Comendadeira do or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates produced nearby in the village of Maçussa! Mosteiro (Monastery Commander) de Santos and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. da Ordem de Santiago da Espada, built the

We leave the village crossing the busy road Igreja da Confraria de Nossa Senhora do In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians N3 towards the railway halt and, following the Paraíso church, in 1555. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

Vala da Azambuja da Vala Rio Sorraia Rio

Rio Tejo AZAMBUJA EM EM EM EM EM Vila Nova a Raina Vila Nova A1/IP1 EM EM EM EM EM N115-4 Carregao N10 VILA DE XIRA FRANCA N1 EM1239 EM EM1216 EM CENTRAL WAY VIA TAGUS stage Azambuja Santarém 2

In Santarém, a city of great importance to the Order of "Avieira" Culture Santiago, you must visit the In the middle of the 19th century, fishermen from the north Marvila Church, built by the fled the harsh conditions of the sea and moved to the Tejo Templars in 1147, with rents and Sado areas, settling on their riverbanks, which provided offered by the Bishop of Lisbon. them with fish all year round. The particular way of life of these Enriched in the 17th century populations, the palafitte houses and docks, and the typical by D. Manuel, its walls are a boats, the bateiras, are testimonies that you can still find and testimonial of azulejo panels visit in this part of the Way, first in Avieira Porto da Palha village, decorative art. Take time to and more to the north, 1 km after the entrance of Reguengo, in admire the symbolic-cultural the village of Palhota. richness, the armillary sphere, the Christ cross, the fleurs-de-lys, and the heraldic weapons. Igreja de Santa Maria da Alcáçova king’s legend. By necessity, the church which, after the conquest village asked the king a Clock On the way to the top of the hill, of Santarém to the Moors by D. Tower. During its construction, we enter the citadel protected Afonso Henriques, was founded the king, who already suspected by the Muralha (Wall), through by the Templar Knights, masters that public monies were Porta de Santiago (Santiago of Santarém’s ecclesiastic, in being mismanaged, was very Gate), used by thousands of 1154. displeased during his visit. Thus pilgrims. Here you can observe it is said that the king had eight the “Fernandinos of Portugal” Finally, stop to visit the museum calabashes placed, symbolizing coat of arms, which documents of Torre do Relógio (Clock Tower) the hollow head of the work’s the reinforcement of the village and discover the 8 calabashes, architects, to the shame of the walls. Already at the top, visit the or gourds, associated with the village.

Church of Santa Maria de Marvila | Santarém

Central Way via Tagus | 113

CENTRAL PATH VIA TAGUS stage Azambuja Santarém 2 Distance 33 km road that passes under a viaduct and flanks the of a fountain in the middle of the arduous climb. Maximum altitude 110 m airfield, then passing through the village of Onias, The water is unsuitable for drinking, but the tanks Cumulative increase 262 m already in the city vicinity. On your left you will refresh our sore feet and soul... Cumulative descent -162 m now have to face the final ascent of the Calçada We finally enter Santarém and head for Largo SANTARÉM Duration 8h00m da Junqueira sidewalk which, on hot days, turns Cândido dos Reis square. In front of the mall you Difficulty (0-5) 3 out to be a real ordeal! Maybe that's why, almost will find an interpretative panel that marks the

33 km 200 years ago, someone wanted to ease the place where the Paths of Santiago and Fátima pilgrims suffering and ordered the construction split. 500 m AZAMBUJA 400 m TIPS Junqueira Fountain 300 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Alcorce Bridge

Elevation 200 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, São Tiago Gate 100 m and a map. 0 m Cabaças Tower 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 30 km33 km PUBLIC ENTITIES Portas do Sol Belvedere Garden Distance Câmara Municipal de Santarém, Divisão de Turismo +351 243 304 258 HEALTH To leave Azambuja, we overcome again the which we follow, among cultivated fields to Santarém Hospital unavoidable barrier of the railway line. We lose sight, until Aldeia do Reguengo. SUPPORT + 351 243 300 200 get immediately into the immensity of the CTT Post Office Pharmacy marshland, following the road for 1.5 km until As a curiosity, we suggest here a detour of Bank/Cash Dispenser we reach Vala Real, where we deviate to the 1 km towards the river Tejo, to the site of Palhota, where there are important records of Tourism Office +351 243 304 437 left and follow the main canal, and then a USEFUL CONTACTS secondary canal, on your right. the so-called "Avieira Culture", candidate for POINTS OF INTEREST Emergency: 112 National Heritage (see box). Forest Fires: 117 If you come with time, in the place before Alcáçova Church Santarém Fire Department: the road exit follow instead the detour From Reguengo to Valada, we walk 2 km Vale Figueira Main Church +351 243 377 900 Santarém Fire Department: to the right through the cultivated fields, without history, but we advise you to stop Misericórdia Church and discover this section of Vala Real until and recover your energy in this small but +351 243 333 122 Santa Maria de Marvila Church its mouth (about 3.5 km), a canal with a typical Ribatejo village. GNR − Santarém Territorial Station: +351 243 300 070 total length of 26 km built at the behest of Santarém Cathedral PSP − Public Security Polic: +351 243 322 022 Marquês de Pombal, in the 18th century. Near Head to Rua da Cova da Onça, along the dyke Diocesano Museum of Santarém the mouth, be sure to appreciate the natural on the Tejo riverbanks until Porto de Muge, charm of the surrounding flora and fauna an old resort in Roman times. From here you and find the Palácio da Rainha. Although it is have the option to take the additional 2.5 km www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT in an advanced state of degradation, it was road to Muge and pass over the century-old www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt a landmark at the end of the 18th century, Rainha D. Amélia bridge over the Tejo. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, functioning as a warehouse and hostel collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't to support the group of steam boats that Before proceeding to Santarém, make sure bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals circulated in the Tejo. you have all the supplies and water needed, or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates because you won’t find other support points and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. We come back to the previous point and, until the end of this stage. Entering through at the end of the secondary canal, we reach Rua do Sabugueiro, you now have about 10 km In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians again the almost deserted road, through of dirt track ahead, before reaching the tarmac only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. Rio Tejo Rio

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Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo

Central Eastern Way Way

Alentejo e Ribatejo

EASTERN WAY stage Alcoutim (Algarve) Mesquita 1

Coming from Alcoutim, we "navigate" the Guadiana river River of Vascão always along the Portuguese The Ribeira do Vascão is an affluent of the Guadiana river and is margin, following the signs of one of the few watercourses still practically wild in the south of route GR15, until we reach the the country. It ranges about 70 Kms in schistous terrain, from stream Ribeira do Vascão, already Cerro do Zebro, at more than 500 m of altitude, to Guadiana's with the accumulated fatigue of mouth, at 10 m altitude. It is possible that the name comes from some kilometers through the the Arabic word basqa, which means "stony zone". Algarve mountains. The passage of Vascão Stream is made in the marked area, assuming that the water level is shallow, as it almost always is, except in the periods of heavy rains.

Eastern Way | 119 Mesquita

Mesquita is located at a strategic point, a natural access road to the Guadiana river. There used to be one of the main natural barriers to larger boats, which at that time moored at the local port and made their trade.

Different people and different products were found here, making the river a great highway of commercial traffic at that time.

Hermitage of Nossa Senhora das Neves In the locality of Mesquita, municipality of Mértola, this hermitage of Our Lady of the Snow rises on top of a hill whose construction dates back to the time before the reconquest. From the 8th and 9th centuries onward, the first signs of sacralization are evident. A marble column on the site shows the date of its construction. Despite its sacralization, there are archaeological remains in Mértola's archaeological field that point out that this place would also have been a Paleo-Christian mosque at the time. The first information dates back to 1515, by a visitor from the Order of Santiago. This church, which had some importance in terms of its assets, was not known until today. It is known from its description that there were three altars, one dedicated to S. Bento (St Benedict), another dedicated to S. Bartolomeu (St Bartholomew) and the main altar dedicated to Nossa Senhora das Flores (Our Lady of the Flowers), the patron saint of the hermitage. Later, this church would be consecrated to Nossa Senhora das Neves (Our Lady of the Snow), and even today we can see its image in the center of the main altar, dated from the 19th century.

120 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Alcoutim (Algarve) Mesquita 1 Distance 14 km TIPS USEFUL CONTACTS Maximum altitude 134 m MÉRTOLA Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Emergency: 112 658 m Cumulative increase a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Forest Fires: 117 25 km Cumulative descent -536 m and a map. Mértola Fire Department: Duration 3h30m +351 286 610 010 3 MESQUITA Difficulty (0-5) PUBLIC ENTITIES GNR − National Republican Guard: Mértola City Council +351 286 612 127 +351 286 610 109 Mértola Civil Protection: +351 286 610 100 14 km 500 m

400 m Espírito Santo Parish Council +351 286 675 250 300 m ALCOUTIM

(Algarve) Elevation 200 m SUPPORT 100 m Táxis 0 m 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km Pilgrim Public Showers Distance +351 964 879 133 Camping +351 964 879 133 Already on the Alentejo side, we are greeted genuine village of Mesquita. In this picturesque with a very steep ascent, inevitable to village, the few dozens of residents, united Hostel Nossa Senhora das Neves conquer the deep stream valley, until we around a project of common interest, have +351 964 879 133 reach the plateau. We stop there to observe a taken up the challenge of rehabilitating Snack Bar Valadas beautiful 360º panoramic view, covering the several houses and establishments, with the undulating landscape of successive hills that sole aim of providing support and shelter to spread to lose sight. future travellers on the Path to Santiago.

The trail to the village of Mesquita continues Mesquita is, in the Caminho de Santiago through multicoloured fields, flanked by Nascente do Alentejo (Alentejo Eastern Path ancient walls and circular stone fences that to Santiago), the emblematic example of the testify to the activity of grazing or ancient strength and hope that the Path to Santiago undetermined occupations. We are in the is capable of instilling in people, removing extreme southwest of the territory, in a them from isolation and promoting local deserted area where, even today, little development. When you arrive at the new is known about the history of its human tavern of the town square (which should occupation. already be functioning), or the building of the Sociedade Recreativa Mesquitense, drink www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT About 2 km later, we glimpse the Ermida de to the health of this small community that www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Nossa Senhora das Neves chapel, on a small has united and worked for your comfort and Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, ridge on the right and, soon after, the old and support on the Path. Well done! collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage.

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ALCOUTIM EM EM IC27 EASTERN WAY stage Mesquita Mértola 2 We leave the village within the deep Alentejo. Here, the green Mértola ancient stone walls that already of the juniper scrublands and then led people to Mértola. the singular holm oak forest Mértola was the Portuguese We enter the protected area are worth notice. In spring, the headquarters of the Order of of the Natural Park of Vale do centenary blossomed tamarisk Santiago since 1248 (ten years Guadiana and, further away trees add some yellow and pink after the conquest of the city by from the Algarve, we follow the to it. We breathe the fresh air and the spatharii and 1482. In fact, it Way to the north, towards the go on our way! enjoyed the status of seat only until 1316, as after the conquest of the Algarve, the Santiagan preferred to reinforce the heritage they held in Alcácer do Sal, although the "capital" was still in Mértola. The Order left deep marks on the city’s history and heritage, with special mention to the construction of the church of Santiago (today the sacred art nucleus of the municipal museum) and the artistic patronage of the Mascarenhas family, the town's spathari commanders. Main Church of Mértola The former mosque of Mértola is the most relevant monument The portal of the church of of the locality. It dates back to the second half of the 19th Misericórdia/Núcleo de Arte Sacra century and was built using Roman and later elements. Even (former Igreja de Santiago) dates today, two Islamic capitals from the 19th century are still back to 1558, the approximate preserved, reused from another mosque that existed in the city. period of temple’s construction In the origin, the mosque was bigger than the current temple, and for the creation of the and still preserves four horseshoe arches and the mihrab, a niche Misericórdia de Mértola. The oriented to Mecca to where the believers direct their prayers. church has, however, a previous With the conquest by the order of Santiago, the new lords origin. A visit that took place in 1565 transformed the mosque into a church and imposed its symbol clarifies that it had been dedicated on the façade. Inside, the current appearance of the roof, in a to Santiago until the residents vault dates back to the Manueline era, replacing the previous instituted the Misericórdia there. It wooden solution. The temple was then reduced to four sections was the closest church to the city's instead of the original six. A new main portal was built, already medieval port, which was accessed Renaissance and designed by the sculptor André Pilarte, at the through the Porta da Ribeira gate. time established in the eastern Algarve. The promoter of these The current feature of the temple works was the commander D. João de Mascarenhas, whose dates back to a renovation carried memory was immortalized in a corbel of the interior, which out in the 16th century and contains a human bust and the inscription "IOANE". its adaptation to the museum

Eastern Way | 123 nucleus of sacred art occurred in the 90s of the 20th century when the multi-centered museum of Mértola was established.

The former church of Santiago’s altarpiece,, dated from the end of the 19th century and attributed to the painter Júlio Dinis de Carvo, is another work of art that evokes the figure of Santiago as Matamouros (The Moor-slayer). The apostle is mounted on a Castle of Mértola white horse and has his sword Enjoying a privileged strategic position, at the confluence drawn, while he holds the Order of the Oeiras stream with the Guadiana river, the castle of of Santiago’s banner with his other Mértola played an essential role in the Middle Ages, both on hand, in a composition model that the Muslim and Christian sides. The origins, however, seem to is often repeated. Commander D. be Roman, when a first defensive stronghold was defined. In João Mascarenhas commissioned Islamic times, the city was the most important river port of a large altarpiece for the main the Guadiana, where men and cargoes between Mérida and church in 1532. The works took the , used to pass. The Islamic occupation was a long time and, in 1554, it was growing from the 19th century onwards to the point where already placed on the north side Mértola was the capital of a small independent kingdom in the of the church, but still lacked 30s and 40s of the 11th century and again in the mid 12th the color application. The main century. Integrated into the Almohad block at the end of that panel is dedicated to the Calvário century, it was subject to great improvements, as shown by (Calvary), but the predella the elbow entry of the fortress, typical of Muslim defensive contains the representation of systems. The city was conquered by the Knights of the Order of Santiago Matamouros, again Santiago in 1238. Soon after, recognizing the relevance of the on horseback, with sword and city as a point of support for the conquests of the Algarve, the banner of the Order in his hands, spathari installed here its seat, a statute that lasted until 1316. attacking a group of infidels, one D. Paio Peres Correia, master of the Order of Santiago, passed of them wearing a turban. The a charter to the town in 1254. And it was another master, D. second panel of this altarpiece is João Fernandes, who, around 1292, promoted the construction also preserved, dedicated to the of the castle's keep, still remaining today and rising to almost Pentecost, and where the figure 30 meters high. of Santiago also stands out, with the pilgrim’s attributes. and also... Islamic Festival − May management of the Natural Park area, providing Mértola Municipality Festivities − June binding opinions on many aspects of tourist activity. Hunting Fair − October Its headquarters are also an important source of Birdwatching information on the nature tourism activities and The Natural Park of Vale do Guadiana/Casa (House) territory natural resources/values. do Lanternim is the local entity responsible for the

124 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Mesquita Mértola 2 Distance 25 km TIPS ICNF - Natural Park of Vale do Guadiana/ Maximum altitude 182 m Casa do Lanternim – Seat of PNVG AMENDOEIRA Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, DA SERRA Cumulative increase 636 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Vale do Guadiana Natural Park Cumulative descent -724 m and a map. Pulo do lobo 29 km Duration 6h15m Guadiana River Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES MÉRTOLA Mértola City Council +351 286 610 109 HEALTH 500 m 25 km Mértola Health Center 400 m Mértola Parish Council +351 286 612 420 +351 286 610 900 300 m MESQUITA Espírito Santo Parish Council Pharmacy

Elevation 200 m +351 286 675 250 100 m

0 m SUPPORT USEFUL CONTACTS 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km Distance CTT Post Office Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 Bank/Cash Dispenser Mértola Fire Department: +351 286 610 010 After Mesquita, we follow the tarmac road of vineyards, always bordering the Guadiana. Mértola Tourism Info Point GNR − National Republican Guard: for 4 km, towards the Colgadeiros site. We Already outside the Herdade, we continue +351 286 610 109 +351 286 612 127 Mértola Civil Protection: +351 286 610 100 continue to the right through the fields, to follow the river, in a path also marked Táxis where we are accompanied by countless with the pedestrian trail "PR1" signs, then partridges in dizzy runs. climbing between hills to reach Poço dos POINTS OF INTEREST Dois Irmãos well, just before the junction After almost 5 km, with the village of with the tarmac road (IC27). We continue São Miguel do Pinheiro Parish Council Roncanito on the right, we put our energy along the IC27 with some caution, because Espírito Santo Parish Council back into a cozy coffee shop in Boavista, the traffic here is already significant, and the Heritage circuit and Mértola Museum which we leave on beaten earth, in the berms are narrow. After 1.7 km, we are at the Mértola Historic and Cultural Heritage: direction of Roncão de Cima. The path gates of this town-museum of Mértola. Order of Santiago continues for 2.5 km to the center of Lombardos, a village with some support We cross the bridge, where the currents of Salvador Hermitage, Mosteiro Museological Nucleus facilities. the Ribeira de Oeiras stream bubble up. We go up the slope on the right, along the south From Lombardos we travel 1,5 km by dirt wall, bypassing the protected citadel inside track to a wide viewpoint over the majestic the fortification. Guadiana river. We walk down a steep stream www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT to the banks of "Rio dos Patos" (Duck River) Almost in the centre of the village, we head www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt and, if we go carefully, apart from those we down an alley, on the left, to the Tourism Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, see a whole universe of birds that make the Office. Here, it is imperative to seek all collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't delights of birdwatching lovers. We are at available information, as you will not want bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals the mouth of a stream whose flows rise and to follow the Path without having the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates fall daily, according to the Guadiana tides. opportunity to know in depth all that this and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. On the left, we find a bridge and a dam that ancient Order of Santiago seat has to reveal allow us to cross it and access Herdade da and can't be described here. In Mértola you In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians Bombeira. We follow the path along 18 ha will feel well and be well served. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM EM

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Rio Vascão EASTERN WAY stage Mértola Amendoeira da Serra 3

In a region where hunting is the dominant activity with Church of Mosteiro centuries of history, as in the Occupied since the Roman era, this small town preserves one entire municipality of Mértola, of the oldest churches in the country, built in the Visigothic the wealth of fauna resources period to house a family-type monastery. It also preserves the in Amendoeira da Serra is great. essential part of the temple, with a vaulted main chapel and This is particularly emphasized a unique nave. More recently, the complex has been adapted during the Feira da Caça (Hunting to residential and agricultural functions, which is why its Fair), in October. transformation into a museum has privileged a collection of agricultural tools rescued in the locality. Here, we breathe history and, on the way there, we go through the Via Romana XXII (Roman Itinerarium Antonini Augusti, the in successive private game Road), through the forest of register of the reserves, from time to time it is stone pines that accompany stations and roads. Although it still possible to discover some us. The Road belonged to the has progressively lost its route original sections.

Eastern Way | 127 The Municipality of Mértola is one of the main territories of Portugal’s hunting activity, and the one, among all through which the Way passes, where hunting takes prominence at all levels. Whenever you observe a signboard with the sign reproduced here (regardless of the text written on it), you will be in a hunting zone. In the period between the beginning of October and the end of December (or until the end of February, in some cases), you will often hear shots along the Way. This has led to the need to adapt the route in order to ensure the safety of travelers at any time of the year, requiring a greater length of road travel than it would be desirable. That’s why we highlight the need not to make detours or other incursions into hunting grounds during the period mentioned above.

The Iberian lynx is the most threatened carnivorous mammal Landscape Interpretation in Europe and the most threatened feline in the world, due to Center of Amendoeira da the small number of animals and populations existing in nature Serra and its limited area of distribution. The reintroduction of the Established in environmen- Iberian lynx into Portugal began in 2015, and between 2015 and tally sensitive territory, the 2017, 27 animals were released in Vale do Guadiana as part of Interpretation Center for the LIFE Iberlince project, whose goal is to recover the historical Amendoeira da Serra Lands- distribution of the species. The harmonious coexistence of cape has information on the human activities and the viability of this wild cat in the Natural flora and fauna of the region, Park of Vale do Guadiana has not been easy, with frequent as well as on the human use reports of road kills and other causes. Knowing and respecting of the Guadiana river and the Iberian lynx and its habitat is, therefore, an essential aspect human occupation in the for environmental citizenship and an important contribution to vast area, now almost desert, its conservation and recovery of the species. between Mértola and Beja.

and also... Ethnobotanist Festival Pulo do Lobo − May was already unoccupied in the 19th century. Hermitage of Salvador, current museum nucleus The importance of this building’s conservation led of Mosteiro to the development of a recovery and enhancement The small town of Mosteiro is located on the way to project that culminated, in 2012, with its integration Pulo do Lobo, near Amendoeira da Serra. At one of its into the Museum of Mértola. The adaptation into edges, slightly far away, there is a building that, due the museum nucleus includes a set of contents and to its architectural characteristics, can be identified exhibition solutions that allow the visitor to fully as a small cult building. In ancient times this place understand the site. On the other hand, through was a villa or mansion, and later, with the adoption the exhibition of agricultural tools offered by local of Christianity as the official religion, it was adapted inhabitants, it is also possible to connect the people, into a family-type monastery. The hermitage of S. creating identity ties and promoting the collective Salvador is probably a 17th-century construction and memory preservation.

128 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Mértola Amendoeira da Serra 3 Distance 29 km of continuous fields, painted with magnificent the direction of Amendoeira da Serra. After 2.5 Maximum altitude 197 m holm-oaks, passing through few "hills" in km we arrive at the intersection with the road CABEÇA GORDA Cumulative increase 682 m remote places, to the quiet village of Mosteiro, that took us to Corte Gafo de Cima and ends Cumulative descent -586 m where we find one of the oldest churches in here. Dona Maria Oriette is already waiting for 24 km Duration 8h15m Portugal, built in the Visigothic period. We have us at the cafe-restaurant of Centro Recreativo Difficulty (0-5) 4 a cup of coffee in the small tavern of the Centro e Cultural de Amendoeira da Serra and we have AMENDOEIRA DA SERRA Recreativo (Recreation Centre) and go down to a bed prepared at the Centro de Acolhimento the asphalted road, where we retake the Path in (Reception Centre). 500 m 29 km 400 m

300 m TIPS POINTS OF INTEREST MÉRTOLA Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Salvador Hermitage,

Elevation 200 m Mosteiro Museological Nucleus 100 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, and a map. 0 m HEALTH 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 29 km Distance PUBLIC ENTITIES Mértola Health Center Mértola City Council +351 286 610 900 +351 286 610 109 The beginning of the stage is signposted in rosemary and cistus. Among holm oaks, cork Pharmacy the center of the village but, in fact, you can oaks and many sheep herds, we discover SUPPORT leave from any place as long as you head to another product of the region, the the big north roundabout, which distributes honey. Táxis USEFUL CONTACTS Emergency: 112 the traffic on the national roads to Beja and Cafe/Restaurant Centro Recreativo Forest Fires: 117 e Cultural de Amendoeira da Serra Serpa. We continue towards Corte Gafo de Cima, Mértola Fire Department: +351 286 610 010 a typical Moorish village of Baixo (Low) Cafe Centro Recreativo e Cultural GNR − National Republican Guard: We pass the roundabout, with the sculpture Alentejo, where most of the houses are still de Mosteiro +351 286 998 247 +351 286 612 127 symbolizing a gateway into the Natural Park built in "taipa" (adobe and wood), as shown Centro de Acolhimento Mértola Civil Protection: +351 286 610 100 of Vale do Guadiana. We take the direction of by the memorial right at the entrance to the da Amendoeira da Serra +351 286 610 000 the Azenha do Guadiana watermill - which village. On the left we can see the Capela Monte do Vento +351 286 610 000 you should not miss - and, at the end of de São Bento, from the 16th century. At the street, we enter the dirt track. Back on the request of the inhabitants, the Order of the road (first to IC27), after a bifurcation, Santiago authorised the construction of this a secondary road takes us to Corte Gafo de humble chapel in order to avoid the long Cima, in a course of almost 10 km on the journey to Mértola. asphalt sideway. But don't be discouraged! We follow the secondary road between Before leaving, heat up with a glass of www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT undulating hills, in a protected area of the “hidromel” (mead) and try the local sweets, www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Natural Park of Vale do Guadiana, where the the delicious "costas" or "nogados". After Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, almost extinct Iberian lynx is still trying to be Corte de Gafe de Cima, we proceed to the collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't preserved. Urban noises fade away and the Monastery. The landscape "absorbs us", bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals sounds of nature and rural life predominate. simultaneously inhospitable and beautiful, or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates It is impossible not to notice the replacement and awakens a mixture of emotions that hang and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. of the riparian landscape by that of the large between fascination and anxiety... Since we cereal steppes. In spring, we are not the only feel so irrelevant, we just want to disconnect... In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians ones to be attracted by the sweet smell of We continue with the taste of a "sea" of hills only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

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Ribeira Chada EASTERN WAY stage Amend. da Serra Cabeça Gorda 4

The origins of Cabeça Gorda village, by now in the municipality of Beja, are unknown. However, there are historical data showing that its creation was much earlier than Portugal’s birth, probably during the Arab occupation, which began in the year 711 AD.

Created under the name of Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Our Lady of Conception) da Rocha, it is today known as Cabeça Gorda (Fat Head), a popular name that is believed to be associated with Main Church of Cabeça Gorda its toponymy: "cabeça" (head) A relatively modest temple commissioned by the Order of deriving from "Cabeço", that Santiago, whose cross is still part of the parish council coat of means hill, and "Gorda" (large) arms. The building has a current layout that should date back because of its width. And the to the 16th century, when one of the two towers that flank the village, located at the highest main façade was erected. The second tower was erected in 1913 point of the region, is, in fact, at the time when the church was also enlarged. placed on a "large hill".

On the way to Cabeça Gorda

Eastern Way | 131 The village is defined by a typical of arms, which has the Order’s red suburbs of Beja. A history that Alentejo landscape of montado cross in the middle of two green left its traces, engraved in the (mix of holm oak and cork oak moons. Between Cabeça Gorda names of the streets, such as forest), especially the red of and the "twin" village of Salvada, Rua da Estalagem (Inn Road), the clay soils that accompany just two kilometers away, much reminding us that, once upon a the traveler along the road. The of the history of the Islamic time, Cabeça Gorda was a place traces of the Order of Santiago period and the subsequent re- of travelers assistance. are also found in the village coat conquer took place here, in the

Cabeça Gorda and also... "Silarca" Mushroom Festival − March Alentejo, was occupied by cereal crops and intensive Anniversary of the Commune – April grazing, causing an increasing soil impoverishment. MTB event Terras de Mato – May In order to reverse this situation, the project for Cultural Week – July/August afforestation of the Perimeter was approved in 1958, Festivities in Honnor of São Luís – August and it is today completely afforested, with the most Biological Park of Cabeça Gorda dominant species being the cork oak and eucalyptus. The Centro de Interpretação dos Recursos Naturais The project’s main goal is to enhance and promote (Interpretation Center of Natural Resources) is located the environmental and rural heritage of the Cabeça in the Perímetro Florestal de Cabeça Gorda e da Gorda and Salvada Forest Perimeter, qualifying this Salvada Biopark, a property of 324.8 ha under the area as a reference for cultural, educational and leisure responsibility of the civil parishes Parish with the activities in rural and natural areas. same name. With the time this space, like much of the

132 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Amend. da Serra Cabeça Gorda 4 Distance 24 km We can see that no one dares to circulate in the gastronomic shows, we can see the inhabitants

BEJA Maximum altitude 190 m streets at the peak of the heat. At the end of the of Cabeça Gorda and its surroundings, in the art Cumulative increase 415 m afternoon, through the streets of the village we of harvesting this natural resource, in Portugal's Cumulative descent -388 m discover some regional handicrafts. emblematic ecosystem. 15 km Duration 6h30m Difficulty (0-5) 4 In March, all the attention turns to a much We conclude the journey in the main square CABEÇA GORDA appreciated delicacy, the Silarca mushroom. The of the village, heading to the local parish Festival lasts three days and is dedicated entirely council that will guide us to the available local 24 km 500 m to the region and the Amanita ponderosa. In accommodation. 400 m addition to the exhibition of regional products and 300 m AMENDOEIRA

DA SERRA Elevation 200 m

100 m TIPS POINTS OF INTEREST 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 24 km Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Cabeça Gorda Parish Council Distance a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Moinho de Vento Park and a map. Cabeça Gorda Biological Park Leaving Amendoeira da Serra, we return to In a crossroad already with asphalt road, we PUBLIC ENTITIES the previous day intersection and, turning chose the direction of Vale de Russins village, HEALTH right, we enter a wide road, which we follow the only point of support of this stage, so we Beja City Council +351 284 311 800 Salvada Health Extension for a few kilometers, until a deviation to the choose to rest here. We get some supplies at +351 284 947 275 left in full descent that might go unnoticed. the grocery store of D. Elisete Ramos, have Cabeça Gorda Parish Council Pharmacy We are at the northern limit of the Natural a coffee at Taberna Romão and we keep +351 284 947 294 Park of Vale do Guadiana. in memory the conversations and glances Salvada Parish Council exchanged with these few inhabitants, whose +351 284 947 114 USEFUL CONTACTS With Serpa mountain range on the right in eyes shine again with the new "life" brought Emergency: 112 the horizon, we pass the ford over the stream to the village by the Path of Santiago. SUPPORT Forest Fires: 117 Ribeira de Terges which, in some rainy periods CTT Post Office Beja Fire Department: +351 284 311 660 of the year, may bring water flows that We move in the direction of Cabeça Gorda GNR − National Republican Guard: Bank/Cash Dispenser blocks the river passage. At these times, we by dirt track. We find several estates and +351 284 947 113 Beja Civil Protection: +351 284 313 050 won't explore the slippery banks looking for their flocks, and we are even surprised with a Monte da Corte Ligeira alternative passages, but should rather ask for Chinese gate on our right, right in the middle support in Amendoeira da Serra so they can of nowhere, witnessing for sure the eastern transport us to an alternative path or even origin of its owner. directly to the village of Cabeça Gorda. www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT We continue through the middle of an www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt We are already in Beja municipality, outside extensive forest perimeter of stone pine. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, the protected area of the Natural Park. We We enter the village of Cabeça Gorda, leave collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't follow successive hills for 8 km, stopping the stone path and enter the paved street bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals from time to time to enjoy the holm oak João Martins Gonçalves. At the end, before or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates forests, the delicate yellow-floweredreaching Praça de Magalhães Lima square, and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. narcissus, Narcissus cavanillesii, or the we see the Main Church. It’s a modest temple purple thistle, Centaurea coutinhoi, which with expansions dating back to the 19th In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians are both protected. century, ordered by the Order of Santiago. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. Rio Guadiana EM Ribeira Talica Piailo Talia Porto Salvaa Porto EM

Barranco Amendoeira

AMENDOEIRA DA SERRA AMENDOEIRA DA

Barranco Silvas Barranco Barranco Gravio Barranco Mosteiro Girala EM511

Vale e Rssins Vale Barranco Vinhota Barranco

Barranco Amendoeiras

Rio Cobres CABEÇA GORDA CABEÇA N391 Barranco Flores EASTERN WAY stage Cabeça Gorda Beja 5

It is a short and relatively flat people's occupations, with many The traces of the Order of stage until Beja, the capital of stories and legends associated. Santiago are clearly visible on Baixo (Low) Alentejo. This will Capital of the District, Beja, the azulejo tiles with the scallop, allow us to dedicate some time known as Pax Julia - as it was to discover its immense heritage here that Júlio César formalized and culture wealth and to peace with the Lusitanos in the recover from the greatest effort 1st century BC -, was definitively of the previous days. We are in conquered between 1232 and the middle of the plains of Beja’s 1234, but, at that time, the rich red lands, which have been territory of the Pax Julia’s old disputed over the centuries by diocese was divided in the the various peoples who have dioceses of Évora and Badajoz. occupied them. So don't be The first conquest occurred in surprised if, along the Way, you 1162, but it was only in the first find a team of archaeologists half of the following century that revealing more traces of the city became definitively a , Islamic or Roman Portuguese possession. Castle of Beja's Door

Castle of Beja

Eastern Way | 135 until we reach the city's largest distinguishes Beja’s contours built. The whole was articulated silhouette, the keep of Beja’s today as it rises to a height of 40 with a more complex system of Castle, where the Tourism Office meters, dates back to the end of urban walls, with 40 turrets and is installed. The original structure the reign of D. Dinis. Due to the 7 doors, some of which should of the castle is very old, but the presence of a battlement with accompany the layout of the late most significant enlargements machicolations on the terrace, it Roman wall (as can be seen in and restorations date from the is similar to the imposing keep of the Portas de Avis gates). 14th century. The works were Estremoz castle. ordered by King D. Fernando to Just below it, in Largo São Tiago the commanders and masters Beja’s citadel had also two doors square, is the Church of Santiago, of the Order of Santiago in 1372. and a pentagonal perimeter, in which has played the Cathedral’s The imposing keep, which still which the Governor's House was role since 1925.

Church of Santiago/Cathedral of Beja The first mention of the Church of Santiago dates back to the 14th century and it is uncertain if it was built following the city conquest. The building was greatly modified at the end of the 16th century. Master Jorge Rodrigues, at the service of the Archbishop of Évora, rebuilt the temple and gave it its current appearance, following the model of the Mannerist churches in Alentejo. The restoration of the diocese took place in 1770 and its first bishop was nominated, Fr. Manuel do Cenáculo, who came to live in the city from 1777. It was only in 1925 that the old Igreja de Santiago took on the role of Cathedral, and many works were carried out to adapt it to the needs of a cathedral.

and also... Ovibeja − April/May Although at low densities, it will be possible to observe International Cartoon Festival − May the rare Mediterranean gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus) Palavras Andarilhas − September and the European pond tortoise (Emys orbicularis). Southern Experiences (Vinipax/Olivipax/BejaGour- Among the amphibians, the Iberian parsley frog met/BejaBrava/BejaKids) − October (Pelodytes ibericus) and the Iberian midwife toads Biodiversity Point (Alytes cisternasii) are worthy of note. There is also A great diversity of reptiles and amphibians will make an enormous diversity of insects, as the region's the herpetologists delight. Some species of great is conducive to outbreaks interest occur in the area of the Municipality of Beja, throughout practically the whole year, offering endless such as the false smooth snake (Macroprotodon possibilities for nature photography in the discipline of cucullatus) or the Bedriaga’s skink(Chalcites bedriagai). macro photography.

136 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Cabeça Gorda Beja 5 Distance 15 km TIPS Nossa Senhora da Conceição Church Maximum altitude 289 m (Santa Maria da Salvada) CUBA Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Cumulative increase 208 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Santo Amaro Church/Visigothic Nucleus Cumulative descent -109 m of Beja Regional Museum 20 km and a map. 3h30m Duration Santiago Church/Beja Cathedral Difficulty (0-5) 2 PUBLIC ENTITIES BEJA Passos de Beja (Religious procession) Santa Cruz Parish Council +351 963 713 025 Terges and Cobres Stream 500 m 15 km Guadiana River 400 m Santiago and São João Batista Parish Councils +351 284 313 100 Sítio Guadiana (Site) 300 m

CABEÇA GORDA Salvador and Santa Maria

Elevation 200 m Parish Councils +351 284 313 100 HEALTH 100 m Hospital José Joaquim Fernandes 0 m SUPPORT +351 284 310 200 / +351 284 322 134 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 15 km Distance CTT Post Office Health Center Bank/Cash Dispenser +351 284 310 200 Pharmacy We leave Cabeça Gorda and turn right, until we reach cultivated fields from where Posto de Informação Turística de Beja through Rua Machado dos Santos, until its we can see Beja in all its magnitude. Beja Camping end, and then flank the Laverda warehouse Táxis USEFUL CONTACTS building on the left. Shortly after, we arrive Shortly after, we arrive at the district capital, Emergency: 112 at a crossroad with an asphalted road, which Beja, and follow the signs to Rua de Beja, which POINTS OF INTEREST Forest Fires: 117 we cross and go straight ahead by the dirt crosses the small Bairro de São João. On the Beja Fire Department: +351 284 311 660 Beja Castle road. right, it is impossible to miss the amphitheatre Portuguese Red Cross: +351 284 322 484 with the large tank, to supply the rides, the Nossa Senhora da Conceição GNR − National Republican Guard: After some 5 km, we find on the right the wash house and several water spouts, which Convent/Beja Regional Museum +351 284 310 770 PSP − Public Security Police: hill of Herdade dos Falcões. Next to that were very frequented by watermen in the São Francisco Convent +351 284 313 150 property, the road bifurcates and we have 19th and 20th centuries. Called "Tanque dos Misericórdia/Nossa Senhora Beja Civil Protection: +351 284 313 050 to pay attention to follow the path on the Cavalos" (Horse Tank), it was the meeting da Piedade Hospitals right. It is certain that the Path is well marked point for riders who, in celebration of Saint Misericórdia Church but, especially for those who go faster, John, made a pilgrimage known as "Cavalgada" by mountain bike, the natural tendency (horse ride). It included banquets and live would be to go to the left... We continue 1 music, and was forbidden in 1835 due to the km slightly up until the end of the road, at violence of the equestrian games. a crossroad, and then we descend to the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT left and, just below, next to the stream, we The Path continues straight along Rua Bento www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt enter a narrow passage on the right, at the Jesus Caraça, which can only be done on Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, end of the fence. We are in a "barranco" (a foot or by bicycle. We enter Beja, a city full of collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't word commonly used here to designate traditions and student life. bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals the valleys of the small streams), called Vale or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates de Mértola, along which is another infinite Please choose from the many available and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. plantation of perfectly aligned olive trees. accomodation options, and then take the

We wander through the plantation, for 2 km, opportunity to taste the region's delicacies. In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs.

EM Ribeira Cardeira Ribeira N391 Paro EM513 CABEÇA GORDA CABEÇA EM EM511

Ribeira Quintos EM HERDADE DOS FALCÕES DOS HERDADE

Barranco Horta do Almada

BEJA EM IP2 Santa Clara e Loreo Clara Santa N18 EASTERN WAY stage Beja Cuba 6

Arriving to Cuba

Pure and hard plain, without credible, and explains, among in addition to other names of shadows, some horses grazing, other "coincidences", why the Alentejo origin that he used in some olive trees lined up and famous discoverer gave the other "baptisms". a few planes taking off from name of Cuba to the island Cuba has other charms, such the aerodrome, which aims he arrived in the Caribbean, as the fountain and public to be an international airport. Beja serves as a starting point for another stage, which ends in Cuba, a town with several attractions. Right from the start, in the square where the Tourism Office is located, we discover the controversial statue of Cristóvão Colombo, by sculptor Alberto Trindade, which was inaugurated in 2006 and weighs one and a half tons. According to historical research, Cuba was the birthplace and baptism of Salvador Fernandes Tavern traditions Zarco, the illegitimate son of a The village of Cuba has the largest set of traditional taverns in nobleman from Beja. He adopted the Alentejo, spaces where the oldest traditions, consumption the Spanish name of Cristóvão habits, amphora wine, spontaneous cante alentejano and the Colon to serve, at the behest of ways of socializing are a source of pride and cultural affirmation the Portuguese king, as a spy of its inhabitants. Discovering these taverns is an unforgettable in the Spanish court. The plot - experience, especially in the era of new wine, a life lesson based described in an exhibition at the on the wisdom of the plain men. Tourism Office - is complex but

Eastern Way | 139 washhouse, built in the 20th marked by three openings, the (St Peter) dates back to the century, which served those central one wider and framing next century when the chapel arriving in Cuba coming from four spouts in the shape of a lion. became a local pilgrimage Beja, even establishing itself The wash house is located behind destination. The late baroque as a social complex of great the fountain and attached to the appearance of the main façade importance. The current "mãe de água" (wellhead). was conferred in a campaign of configuration of the fountain works carried out around 1804. dates back to 1923, according Probably founded in the 16th It's a building of remarkable to the inscription on the gable, century, the essence of the scenographic impact, with a the only more monumental part, Quinta and chapel of São Pedro front preceded by a galilee and flanked by two slender towers. Pilgrim houses were attached to the church. Of medieval origin, the chapel was completely reformulated from 1572, the year in which the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, in Lisbon, signed a contract with the master mason Manuel Gonçalves. The result was a majestic temple, of great dimensions, with the main façade flanked by two grandiose staggered towers. The interior has a unique vaulted nave, reinforced by buttresses, Roman Bridge Vila Ruiva Located in the old Roman road Ebora a Pax Julia, which passed and profusely decorated through Vila Ruiva and on the bed of the river Odivelas, this with polychrome azulejo tiles Roman bridge is situated about 3 km from the village. Based on dating back to 1665. The main granite bollards and brick archery which seems loose, although altarpiece is from the first half it is from Roman times, he may have undergone Visigothic and of the 18th century, with rococo Arab reconstructions. It consists of 26 arches, interspersed by additions. In 2003, the sacristy perfect semi-circular eyebolts, and is 120 meters long, with a was transformed into a museum maximum width of 5 meters. space to house the church's treasure. and also... Gastronomic Fair of Vila Alva − August Represa (Our Lady of the Dam), appears a thick wall, in Festivities of N.ª Sr.ª da Rocha (Cuba) − August opus incertum with an east-west orientation. Festivities of Santa Maria (Vila Ruiva) − August The popular tradition believes that it was the Festivities of São Luís (Faro do Alentejo) − August foundations of a large church that would have been Cuba's Annual Fair − September built in honor of Nossa Senhora da Represa. Its Roman Dam construction was never concluded, by the preference Near the junction of the roads of Cuba / Vila Alva / Vila that the image of Nossa Senhora da Represa would Ruiva, on the left of who goes to Vila Alva a few meters have shown for the church of S. Caetano, built a few from the hermitage, today called Nossa Senhora da meters away.

140 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Beja Cuba 6 Distance 20 km TIPS São Sebastião Church VIANA DO Maximum altitude 284 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, São Luís de Faro do Alentejo Main Church ALENTEJO Cumulative increase 145 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Nossa Senhora da Encarnação Main Church Cumulative descent -249 m and a map. 29 km Duration 4h45m Nossa Senhora da Visitação or Nossa Senhora do Outeiro Church Difficulty (0-5) 2 PUBLIC ENTITIES CUBA Cuba City Council Misericórdia Church− Vila Alva +351 284 419 900 Nosso Senhor dos Passos Chapel – Vila Alva 500 m 20 km 400 m Vila Ruiva Parish Council Papa São Sixto Hermitage +351 284 495 178 300 m Nossa Senhora da Represa Hermitage

BEJA Elevation 200 m SUPPORT Santo António Hermitage 100 m CTT Post Office Quinta da Esperança or Quinta do Conde 0 m Relógio Borralho Eco-Palace 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km Bank/Cash Dispenser Distance Tourism Office Dolmens − Vila Alva +351 284 419 903/+351 963 709 475 Roman Bridge We had time to explore Beja, so we can start lunch at the only local restaurant on the Táxi Manuel José Quaresma Esteves Albergaria dos Fusos Dam our journey just outside the city, crossing the roadside. Next to Largo da Igreja square, we +351 966 144 656/+351 284 412 295 railway line at the opening of the fence next can visit the church Igreja de São Matias, HEALTH POINTS OF INTEREST to Rua da Lavoura. From there, we follow built in the 16th century, with two columns Cuba Health Center − +351 284 419 080 the typical stone alleys and pass through of gilded wood carving and a folk character House of the Writer Fialho de Almeida Pharmacy the Arco da Porta de Avis (Gate Arch). As a altarpiece. António Bicho Museum, known as curiosity, the stones of the door arch were “Museu Caluta” lost after its demolition, in 1893, to be found We leave the village on the rural road that São Vicente de Cuba Main Church’s 40 years later, serving as tables at the local flows off the coast, to the north, towards USEFUL CONTACTS Treasure Museum Emergency: 112 market fishmonger's shop. Cuba. We arrive there by crossing the Bairro Forest Fires: 117 Novo da Bica neighborhood and the large São Vicente de Cuba Main Church Cuba Fire Department: +351 284 419 060 Carmo Church and Ashram Guided by the azulejo tiles on the buildings roundabout, heading to Rua 1.º de Maio. GNR − National Republican Guard: walls, we go to the crossing point of the 250 m ahead, we turn right to Rua de Serpa São Pedro Church +351 284 249 217 "railroad" already mentioned above. From Pinto, and rush straight ahead until we reach Nossa Sra. da Conceição da Rocha Church here, we follow on the left, on an asphalted the Tourism Office at Largo Cristovão Colon. road, towards the village of São Matias, 6 km We came fast to arrive in time to visit the away, almost in a straight line. On the way, most famous artisan shoemaker in Alentejo, the tarmac gives way to the dirt track that the charismatic Mário Grilo, and take the foot www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT we walk until we reach a crossroads where mould for our next genuine Alentejo boots! www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt we choose to turn left. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, In Cuba, we still take time to discover the collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't We sight the first houses of São Matias unmissable Rota das Tabernas (Tavern bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals village, where we enter through Rua Alferes Route), going in and out of old and or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates Borges dos Reis, after crossing the national traditional taverns between a good chat, and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. road N18. We're about halfway through the regional snacks and successive "copos de route, so we suggest you to take a break for três" (glasses of three)... In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. CUBA

N387

EM1223 N258-1 Ribeira Barreiros Barranco Cabaco EM1008

EM

Ribeira Freixo

EM521

Ribeira Odearca

So Matias Horta o Coelo

IP2

Barranco Santa Luzia

EM Coitos EM

Ribeira Mata Frades

EM

EM

Barranco Carvalhal EM

IP8

EM BEJA

N18 EASTERN WAY stage Cuba Alvito Viana do Alentejo 7

When you arrive to Viana do The Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora From 1744, the ancient building Alentejo, you can’t miss the d'Aires is one of the most was demolished and the majestic panoramic view of the 13th emblematic Baroque shrines and scenic sanctuary that still century fortress, where you can of pilgrimage in Alentejo, and exists today was built. The great see the church of Nossa Senhora originated in the 15th century influx of pilgrims and the free d'Aires, the place where one of (from the miraculous appearance market granted by royal charter the main Alentejo pilgrimages of an image of Our Lady inside in 1751 contributed greatly to of the Alentejo is celebrated, a clay pot to a farmer in the the sanctuary’s grandiosity. during Feira D'Aires. The majestic region), but became famous in The works continued for the main church is protected by the the Baroque period when, the second half of the 18th century, wall, with an imposing marble plague spreading in Évora, the and were only finished in 1804. portal, and through which you city inhabitants promised to Our The main façade is the most can climb to the roof to see Lady d'Aires they would build monumental part, with its closely the bronze bell in the a grandiose edifice in case the central body widely decorated, Misericórdia tower. plague came to an end. flanked by two towers, already

Church of Nossa Senhora d’Aires

Eastern Way | 143 rococo style. We do not leave this master rattlesmen, the rattles village without taking a souvenir still serve their purpose today, that is a UNESCO World Heritage locating cattle in pastures, a kind Site, the “Arte Chocalheira”. of ancestral GPS. Produced with love by the local

Castle of Alvito The most outstanding pat- rimonial element of Alvito has its origin in the 13th century and in the figure of the lord of the village, Estêvão Anes. The current feature of the monument is the result of a recon- struction carried out from 1481, by João Fernandes da Castle of Viana do Alentejo Silveira, chancellor major The walled system of Viana do Alentejo has its origin in the and vedor of the farm of decision of King D. Dinis who, in 1313, ordered the construction D. João II. The works start- of a fence torn by three doors. It is not known if the works have ed in 1494 and were com- been totally carried out, because the whole has undergone a pleted 10 years later. The reconstruction at the end of the Middle Ages. The result was a keep is an impressive Ma- fortress full of exoticism, proper of the Mudéjar taste of the time. nueline scenic piece, with It is pentagonal in shape, with angles reinforced by cylindrical its Mudéjar-style windows. towers topped by large crowns, the largest of which, fitted with The chapel of the palace bell rings, over the keep. The walled enclosure was used for dates back to 1548 and the construction of the main church, the Misericórdia church new works were carried out and the City Hall, which transformed the castle into a very little in the 17th century. military stronghold. and also... Spring Festival − June has been distinguished by the manufacture and Aires Fair − September commercialization of rattles, transforming these Saints Fair (Alvito) – Novembro simple utilitarian objects into artistic and decorative Rattle Fair pieces. The Alcáçovas Fair is an open-air old fair, with The annual fair of Alcáçovas, also called "Rattle Fair", about two hundred years, where were commercialized is held at Largo da Gamita on the fourth Sunday of several articles, namely, rattles. July. Since the 18th century, the town of Alcáçovas

144 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Cuba Alvito Viana do Alentejo 7 Distance 29 km the right, where the tarmac gives way to the walk the N257 and Rua da Amendoeira and get Maximum altitude 276 m dirt track, that after 5.1 km takes us to Viana do to this old town. ÉVORA Cumulative increase 502 m Alentejo, at the foot of the mountain range. We 36 km Cumulative descent -429 m Duration 8h15m TIPS Viana do Alentejo Castle VIANA DO ALENTEJO Difficulty (0-5) 4 Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Nossa Senhora da Piedade Hermitage 12 km a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Senhor Jesus do Cruzeiro Hermitage and a map. ALVITO 500 m Cruz Fountain

400 m 17 km PUBLIC ENTITIES Nossa Senhora D’Aires Fountain 300 m Viana do Alentejo City Council Escudeiros Fountain CUBA

Elevation 200 m +351 266 930 010 Traditional Pottery 100 m Aguiar Parish Council Manueline Gates in the Old Center 0 m +351 266 930 863 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km 29 km Distance Viana do Alentejo Parish Council HEALTH +351 266 953 317 Viana do Alentejo Health Center Alvito City Council +351 266 930 050 We began this stage at Rua de Serpa Pinto, We return to the Path, with more energies +351 284 480 800 next to the statue of Christopher Columbus. to do the 2 km until Vila Ruiva. We enter Health Center (Aguiar) +351 266 791 278 At the end of the street, at the roundabout, we the south side by the N258 and get to know SUPPORT follow on the right at Estrada da Circunvalação the small village, its friendly inhabitants and Pharmacy CTT Post Office to the village exit. On the dirt track, we'll go its long history. We continue towards the straight ahead, for 2,1 km. Unfortunately, it sign that indicates Alvito. Before leaving, we Bank/Cash Dispenser USEFUL CONTACTS is not possible to follow the old Roman Way, stock up and taste the famous coffee "com ​Tourism Office Emergency: 112 which is now crossed by private estates. At cheirinho" (with a little smell), the regional +351 266 930 010 Forest Fires: 117 the junction, we turn left another 2,4 km. brandy, at the Central Café of Vila Ruiva. Táxis Viana do Alentejo Fire Department: After the houses, the Path is made on the left, +351 266 953 123 where at the end we find a regional road. We We do this part of the Path by the national POINTS OF INTEREST GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 266 953 126 follow short meters to the right, to enter the road 258-1, for more 4.7 km, and we cross the Nossa Senhora da Assunção Main Church first path on the left roadside. bridge over Odivelas Stream. After the bridge, Municipal Service of Civil Protection: we go up on the left to the dirt road, where Nossa Senhora D’Aires Sanctuary +351 967 259 905 (24h) We advance without detours until we see an we pass under the bridge and follow 1.3 km. Zambujeiro irrigation channel, which we cross on a small Then, on the right, we follow a dirt track until bridge. We continue straight ahead 4.8 km, we reach Alvito. choosing the left of the main path, at the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT only intersection. We've spotted a hermitage We continue on Rua do Espírito Santo, admire www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt on the road 258-1. It is close to the Ermida the grandiose Alvito Castle, and on Rua das Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, de Nossa Senhora da Represa that we take Fábricas we leave the village, between green collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't a short break. We take advantage, and by fields and olive trees. We turn on the first on bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals a detour of 200 m, in Cuba's direction, we the right and follow the dirt track for 5.6 km. or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates visit the ruins of the ancient Roman dam. An We arrive to Água de Peixe by tarmac road, and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. ancient reservoir where you can still observe where we find the Solar de Água de Peixe, the solidity and functionality characteristic of a noble house with a 15th century chapel, In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians Roman architecture. of Mudéjar style. We continue the Path on only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. VIANA DO ALENTEJO

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CUBA EASTERN WAY stage Viana do Alentejo Évora 8

There is not enough space here to the describe the many obligatory visits that the fascinating Évora offers us: the Cathedral, the countless churches, the Roman temple, the University, the genuine and ancient alleys, the convents and megalithic monuments in the vicinity, the Capela dos Ossos (Bones Chapel) in the Church of São. Francisco, where the message on the door is a reminder of the timeless human frailty: "We bones who Church of Graça

Church of Santo Antão (gothic altar pediment) One of the most monumental churches in Évora was finished in the time of cardinal D. Henrique. The scenic and austere Mannerist church-salon was started in 1557, according to the architect Miguel de Arruda's project. The temple was completed in 1563, but an earthquake, five years later, required some restoration works, with the whole finished in 1570, the year in which the cardinal D. Henrique also promoted the construction of the fountain of Praça do Giraldo square. Most of the contents date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, with the exception of the alabaster altar pediment, where the Apostolate (and Santiago among the apostles) was depicted, one of the few works of Evora sculpture of the 15th century that are still preserved.

Eastern Way | 147 are here, waiting for yours"... Without forgetting the Church of São Tiago, which for more than 700 years has exhibited on the top of its pediment the apostle Santiago on horseback, fighting the Moors. The magnificent interior is covered with azulejo murals and paintings from more recent times, enhanced with a beautiful golden carved altarpiece in the main chapel.

Cathedral of Évora The main portal of Évora’s Cathedral, built in the 30s of the 14th century by a company of sculptors, which probably included the famous master Pero, was commissioned by Bishop D. Pedro Martínez. It is the most important monumental portal of Portuguese art of the 14th century, representing Saint Peter and Saint Paul accompanied by the apostles, including St. James Major, the first on the north side of the door, represented with the shoulder bag, decorated with the scallop. Giraldo Square and also... São João Fair silk merchants, candle-makers, boilermakers, The Saint John's Fair has existed under this name leather tanners, colored cloth merchants, crockery since 1569, but other fairs were already held at the potters, spinners, shoemakers, weavers, etc. With Rossio de São Brás in Évora: Feira de Santiago (1275), the passing of time, although the popular character Feira Franqueada (since 1286), Feira dos Pucarinhos has not changed, the Feira de São João de Évora has ou das Candeias (1525), Feira dos Estudantes (1569), undergone some changes. During the Estado Novo Feira dos Ramos (1839), Feira Nova de São Cipriano (New State), after 1940, it served to reinforce the (since 1900). The first Feira de São João was held Portuguese culture, with the costume parades and in the largest open space in Évora, the Rossio de other manifestations that would transmit the idea of São Brás, on June 24, 1569. Years later, in 1574, D. a united, even imperial, homeland. After the 25th of Sebastião's license was created, which regulated April 1974, the fair was modernized, and the economic that the fair would always take place in the space activities started to be highlighted. The importance of where it still takes place today. At that time, as still a the São João Fair for Évora has been such that, in the little bit today, the Fair was composed of merchants' middle of the 20th century, the municipal holiday was tents and crafts, such as gold and silver goldsmiths, fixed on June 29th (Saint Peter's Day).

148 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Viana do Alentejo Évora 8 Distance 36 km TIPS Misericórdia Church Maximum altitude 292 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, SÃO MIGUEL Nossa Senhora das Mercês Church Cumulative increase 365 m DE MACHEDE a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Água da Prata Aqueduct Cumulative descent -326 m and a map. 23 km Duration 8h45m D. Isabel Roman Arch Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Almendres Cromlech ÉVORA Évora City Council Cordovil House +351 266 777 000 36 km 500 m Colored Houses Évora Parish Councils (São Mamede, 400 m Praça do Giraldo Fountain Sé, São Pedro and Santo Antão) 300 m VIANA DO +351 266 707 792 Domus

ALENTEJO Elevation 200 m Nossa Senhora do Ó Hermitage 100 m SUPPORT Playroom and Toy Museum 0 m CTT Post Office 0 km 10 km 20 km 30 km 36 km Scale House Distance Bank/Cash Dispenser Évora Roman Temple ​Évora Tourism Office +351 266 777 071 Every silver lining has a cloud! And when you de Camões. A little further north there used to HEALTH leave Viana, there is the certainty that you be the Camoeira Port, known for the road that Táxis Espírito Santo de Évora Hospital either hate or love this "queen stage". But crossed it, nicknamed "Diabos" (Devils), which +351 266 740 100 POINTS OF INTEREST the arrival in Évora is a great and abundant belonged to Adriano's empire. With attention, Pharmacy reward, a solemn moment of ecstasy, almost it is still possible to discover a granite column São Bento de Castris Monastery as if we were already staring in front of the more than 2 meters long, the former stepping Remédios Monastery apostle's cathedral... stone to cross the Xarrama River. USEFUL CONTACTS Évora Cathedral Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 We travel under ten kilometers without From here to Évora the journey will be Nossa Senhora da Cabeça Chapel GNR − National Republican Guard: history to the quiet village of Aguiar. In days severe and lonely, in which the monotony of São Brás Church +351 266 748 400 of extreme heat, prudence advises that we yellowness of the stubble is barely broken by Santo Antão Church PSP − Public Security Police: +351 266 760 450 recover here, enjoying a long provincial the abundant ruminants and by the migrant São Francisco Church and Ossos Chapel Évora Civil Protection: +351 800 206 405 gazpacho, followed by any traditional delicacy storks who settled permanently in the that accentuates laziness and encourages plain, fed by the ponds of the indolent river São Mamede Church you to put your boots away for today... The Xarrama. The Path leads us to the famous São Tiago Church ancients suggested it by leaving the imposing Giraldo Square, in honour of the legendary Anta de Aguiar dolmen beside the Path, for robber Geraldo Sem Pavor (Without Fear), an improvised backrest. In a fiercer way, who redeemed himself before D. Afonso www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT or in cooler weather, we follow the ancient Henriques when he conquered Évora from www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Roman military route, from the Emperor the Moors, a heroic feat forever immortalized Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, Antonino Pio's itinerary, which connected in the city's coat of arms. At the Tourism collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Ebora Liberalitas Julia (Évora) to Pax Julia (Beja), Office we take care of the well-deserved bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals and we see the Camoeira redoubt, a fortified rest and we collect itinerary to guide us in or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates manor house from the 15th century, allegedly the discovery of this city, a UNESCO World and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. built by a relative of the distinguished Luís Vaz Heritage Site.

In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

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Évora is one of the cities with Pavor” (Without fear), who ap- tas, a native of Marinha Grande, the richest historical past in the pears on Évora's coat of arms just who enriched himself in the world. We could stay there, or like Santiago in many other cities. glass business and embarked on come back a hundred times and, But first, we pass through Azaru- a political career in the regener- as Raul Proença says (in Guia de ja, where we find the Palácio dos ating field. His connection to the Portugal), we would always find Condes da Azarujinha (Palace of Alentejo is justified by the fact "(...) towers that rise up, walls the Counts of Azarujinha), a title that he was a great entrepreneur that crush us, crossroads that created by D. Carlos I in 1890, to in the cork business, and even make us perplexed, façades that honor António Augusto de Frei- ended up dividing his large prop- advance or retract, slopes, kinks, niches, small chests, counters, watercolor sections, (...).". Church of Nossa Senhora de Machede In the old parish of São Miguel de Machede, we can find the Therefore, we progressed church of Our Lady with the same name. Built in the 16th century, through the streets and narrow it is another austere and monumental Mannerist church of alleys to the busiest roads lead- Alentejo. In baroque times, it was the object of great renovation, ing us to the outskirts of the city, and practically all the artistic contents of the interior as well as the with the promise of returning dynamic appearance of the towers of the main façade, date from soon. We leave Évora through that time. In 1758, the church of Nossa Senhora da Natividade the Estrada dos Aliados (Allies (Our Lady of the Nativity) de Machede had three altars. In addition Road), to "conquer" Evoramonte, to the main altarpiece, dedicated to the patron saint, there was inspired by the legendary char- another dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Our Lady of the acter of the knight matamouros Rosary) and a third one to the blessed souls of the Purgatory. (Moor-slayer) Geraldo “Sem

Eastern Way | 151 erty into different plots of land shaped finishing, probably the noble hunting area and not with for the benefit of the local pop- only which is associated with a municipal autonomy. ulation. It's an eclectic building, characterized by turrets, terraces and lowered spans, in the style of the wealthy residential archi- tecture of the end of the 19th century.

In the possession of important members of the Alentejo nobility, Azaruja must have promoted the construction of its pillory in the 18th century, long after the great pillories outbreak in the country, which was coincident with the charters concession by D. Manuel I. The current Church of São Miguel de Machede location was conferred already The church was built in the second half of the 16th century. In in the 20th century, when the 1758, the church had five altars. In addition to the main altarpiece small surrounding garden was dedicated to São Miguel, there were altarpieces dedicated to benefited. It's an elaborate São Pedro (St Peter), Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Our Lady of the pillory, with a hexagonal Rosary), and Santo António (St Anthony). column and a conical pine-

Hermitage of Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo This hermitage of Our Lady is actually a baroque shrine of regional pilgrimage, which reached its peak in the 19th century. The origins, however, are earlier and point to a hermitage inhabited by hermits before the mid-18th century. The present sanctuary was started in 1757, by the initiative of D. Frei Miguel de Távora, Archbishop of Évora. Inside this small and octagonal temple, marked by altars of rococo wood carving, there is an impressive repository of ex-vows painted in different types of material, from wax to leather, but there are also achievements with human hair and reptile skin. As a pilgrimage destination, the sanctuary has a caretaker's house and two inns (large and small). An important part of this heritage is now a hotel. and also... Festivities of São Miguel Machede − August this Intangible Heritage of Humanity, recognized by Know-How Fairs − September UNESCO. Ponto&Alto Festival An initiative by the Grupo de Cantadeiras de São The Festival de Cante Alentejano de São Miguel Miguel de Machede and the Grupo de Cantadores "Os de Machede takes place in September and aims Marchantes", in partnership with the Party Planning to contribute to the enrichment of the traditional Committee and the Parish Council of São Miguel songbook, encouraging the emergence of new trends, de Machede, and all the other local institutions and giving an opportunity for the recognition of talents companies. identified with the Cante Alentejano, in safeguarding

152 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Évora São Miguel de Machede 9 Distance 23 km so before, it's time to start thinking about getting com migas" (pork cheeks with crumbs). If you Maximum altitude 306 m accommodation by asking the parish council or have some free time, take the opportunity to visit EVORAMONTE Cumulative increase 339 m one of the restaurants in the area, where you Monte do Álamo and its winery, located near this Cumulative descent -398 m can't miss the delicacy of "bochechas de porco village. 23 km Duration 6h45m 4 Difficulty (0-5) TIPS HEALTH SÃO MIGUEL Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Pharmacy DE MACHEDE 500 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, 23 km 400 m and a map. USEFUL CONTACTS 300 m Emergency: 112 ÉVORA PUBLIC ENTITIES

Elevation 200 m Forest Fires: 117 Évora City Council 100 m Fire Department: +351 266 702 122 +351 266 777 000 PSP − Public Security Police: +351 266 760 450 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 23 km São Miguel de Machede Parish Council GNR − National Republican Guard: Distance +351 266 987 186 +351 266 987 123 GNR − Évora Territorial Station: SUPPORT +351 266 748 400 We pass the small bridge over the river which justifies the anomalous number of CTT Post Office Xarrama, the neighborhood of Santa Luzia coffee shops in Largo da Casa do Povo and, straight ahead on the Path, already in square. We take Rua 25 de Abril on the left, Táxis Fonte Boa +351 266 987 171 macadam, we reach the gates of Herdade da but just 100 metres ahead we turn and Adega do Miguel +351 968 782 475 Fonte Coberta, about 5 km after the beginning descend Rua do Depósito. At the bend we Café Central +351 266 743 279 of our journey. leave the tarmac and continue along the dirt road on the right, until we are immersed in Snack Bar Varanda +351 266 987 227 We bypass the entire property on the left, another extensive olive grove that we cross now on a beautiful narrow and rustic trail, to the estate’s edge. POINTS OF INTEREST leading us to the valley of the Degebe River, Nossa Senhora de Machede Church just after climbing a small elevation. We We continue through successive hills and São Miguel de Machede Church follow the river for 2 km, until a gate blocking "courelas" (small cultivation plots), in a more the path reminds us that it is time to roll up undulating landscape, with some ravines and our pants and wade across the river. We are an immense quantity of different species birds, on an old medieval way that connects Évora and even a splendid vineyard where a flock of to Nossa Senhora de Machede, and we can goats also grazes. We are in the property of still see the stones that paved it and, on the Casa Relvas, and it is worth suggesting a slight left, some of the "posts" that used to help the detour for a visit to the modern cellar, easily www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT walkers to cross the river. seen on our left, in where you can taste the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt wines and other local products. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, Without further detours, we arrive at Nossa collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Senhora de Machede. We cross the bridge We are in the vicinities of São Miguel de bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals of Roman origin over the Machede stream Machede, so, with or without a detour, we or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and climb the slope to the top, where the enter the village soon after and finish the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. church stands out among the lower houses. stage in Praça da República square, next

A village where leather is well crafted, and to the parish church of the patron Saint In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians we can see, on the outskirts, the tannery, Michael the Archangel. If you haven't done only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

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Vale e Mora EASTERN WAY stage S. Miguel de Machede Evoramonte 10

Castle of Evoramonte

The walled perimeter of Nuno Álvares Pereira and, about of 1531, which led to an almost Evoramonte Castle dates back to a century later, a formidable complete reconstruction of the the beginning of the 14th century palace was built, marked by four whole. The main chapel was when D. Dinis ordered the town cylindrical towers that define under construction in 1577, as fortification. From there, the a quadrangular perimeter. The was the main altarpiece, one of panorama is grandiose and stern, work, of clear Italian influence, the most important Mannerist with a vast and imperturbable was conducted by the architect altarpieces in the Alentejo. horizon that takes our breath Francisco de Arruda in 1531. Inside, the altarpieces of the away. Today, Evoramonte is the chapel Santíssimo Nome de seat of the European Network It's history who makes the Jesus (Holy Name of Jesus), of Sites of Peace, a network of village. A history that is visible from the beginning of the 17th places in Europe where peace in the Igreja de São Pedro (St century, and the one of Santo treaties or capitulations were Peter) de Fora which, as the António (St Anthony), already signed, represented by public name indicates, was (still is) fully baroque, from the mid-18th and private institutions, in order outside ("fora") of Evoramonte. century, are also noteworthy. to work together to build a The temple is of medieval The primary school, which culture of peace and promote origin (as can be seen from the adjoins the southern façade of these places based on their double arch window that still the church, was built in 1878. Common Historical Heritage - the tears in the back wall of the The entrance to the temple is PEACE. In the time of D. João I, the main chapel), but it was partly preceded by a small porch in the castle became the property of D. destroyed by the earthquake shape of a temple, and the front

Eastern Way | 155 is crowned by an image of São Pedro, probably executed in the first half of the 16th century.

Only a pale image of what the pillory of Evoramonte might have been that evoked the autonomy of the county remains. It was broken on an uncertain date of the 19th century, and the parts ended up being lost, except for a parallelepiped plinth on which the column was based, and some stem elements, now integrated into the bell tower of the Igreja de Santa Maria (St Mary’s Church). Evoramonte was awarded a Arriving to Evoramonte charter in 1248 and received a new charter from D. Manuel I in 1516. In 1855, with its integration in the municipality of Estremoz, the pillory ended up being demolished and never rebuilt again.

Still on the urban perimeter of Evoramonte, the church of Misericórdia (Mercy) stands out, as well as a church with porches, of the village's heritage. The origin of the temple dates back to 1527, the year from which local Misericórdia is documented. At the main altar, there is an ara stone that bears the date of 1575, the approximate year to date the construction works of the temple. Everything indicates that Hermitage of São Sebastião it was always a Misericórdia of The Ermida de São Sebastião (Hermitage of St Sebastian), located few resources, which didn't have next to the road that connects the low village to Evoramonte Castle, a hospital in the 19th century. evidences a construction contemporary of almost all the extra- Even so, it was the object of a mural chapels that can be found in the parish. With a square main relevant artistic filling, such as chapel and a hemispherical dome, this is also the oldest element the azulejo tiles attributed to of this historic building. Situated near the castle's gate Porta de São the workshop of Policarpo de Sebastião, the chapel has undergone an important reform in 1779. Oliveira Bernardes and the two Also of note here are the wall paintings and sgraffitos of the main sets of processional flags, one chapel vault where, according to Túlio Espanca, crosses of the Order from the mid-17th century and of Malta, along with other motifs, may appear. the other from the middle of the following century.

156 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage S. Miguel de Machede Evoramonte 10 Distance 23 km TIPS São Brás Hermitage Maximum altitude 363 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Public Cistern ESTREMOZ Cumulative increase 419 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Evoramonte Pillory Cumulative descent -288 m and a map. 25 km Duration 5h45m Evoramonte Convention House Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Former Council House EVORAMONTE Estremoz City Council Evoramonte Common Barn +351 268 339 200 500 m Misericórdia de Evoramonte Church 23 km Evoramonte Parish Council 400 m São Pedro Church (Evoramonte) +351 268 950 200 300 m SÃO MIGUEL Nossa Senhora da Conceição Church

DE MACHEDE Elevation 200 m SUPPORT (Evoramonte) 100 m Bank/Cash Dispenser Santa Rita de Cássia Church 0 m Evoramonte Parish +351 266 467 203 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 23 km HEALTH Distance Camping Site Estremoz Health Center + 268 959 283 / 936 799 249 +351 268 337 700 We bypass Praça da República square on km, first on the road to the sign that indicates Supermarket the right, going down to the cobbled lane of Monte Branco on the right. Then, by the dirt Rua dos Castelos. After walking over the dry road that conducts us through successive POINTS OF INTEREST USEFUL CONTACTS Emergency: 112 stream, we access a vacant field and, ahead, small agricultural properties (courelas), until Evoramonte Castle Forest Fires: 117 we have the national road N254 on an elevated another asphalted street, that leads us to El-Rei Fountain/Santo Estêvão Estremoz Fire Department: platform, which we have to pass through a low the entrance of Azaruja by Rua das Courelas, Fountain (Evoramonte) +351 268 337 360 tunnel that forces us to bend our back. ending near the Praça de Touros (Bullring). São Marcos Hermitage Estremoz Civil Protection: +351 268 080 250 GNR − Estremoz Territorial Station: Already on the other side, we continue 400 m to the left is the Palácio dos Condes da São Lourenço Hermitage +351 268 322 804 through the midst of sheep flocks surprised Azarujinha, an imposing palace of neoclassical Santa Margarida Hermitage PSP − Public Security Police: +351 268 338 470 to see us there. We open and close successive architecture, which is not open to visitors. We Santo Estêvão Hermitage braided wire gates, walking 2 km through the walk up to Largo da Igreja square and from São Sebastião Hermitage middle of the cork and holm oak forest until a there, on a wide macadam road, we follow vast water plan opens in front of us. Not one the indications to the hermitage of Nossa but two, because we also find another small Senhora do Carmo, on the left. dam on the right . We turn left and we follow the larger dam bank until Courelas da Toura, Before the hermitage, we turn right through a with lots of shade and fresh air. gate and proceed inside the cork and holm oak www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT forest, ever more dense for 6 km without seeing www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt We cross beautiful vineyards and cultivated a soul. After some gates and some dry streams, Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, fields until we see the asphalt again, confluent the landscape opens and we cross through collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't on one side with the Paço da Quinta and on the middle of chickens and sheep, in a small bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals the right with the hermitage of Nossa Senhora degraded hill, guarded by some fiercer and, or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates dos Remédios, surrounded by homemade fortunately, trapped dogs.... The environment is and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. vegetable gardens, with an unusual wayside still rural, along a narrow paved road that ends cross on a whitewashed pedestal, closer to up intersecting the national road N18, at the In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians the road. Until Azaruja we'll walk another 4.5 entrance of Evoramonte, next to the gas station. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM Foros o Qeiao Foros EM

Ribeiro Pardiela Ribeira Piscina SÃO MIGUEL DE MACHEDE SÃO EM A6/IP7 N372-1 EVORAMONTE N18 EM N254 N254-1 Corelas a Tora Corelas

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EM Ribeira Machede Ribeira EM EASTERN WAY stage Evoramonte Estremoz 11

Castle of Estremoz

Until Estremoz we will have called "the Loureiro", meant the In the municipal museum, we another journey of long intimacy constitution of an element on the quickly put aside the external with the cork oak and holm oak definition of Estremoz urbanism attractions so that, in the words forest, winding through the dark and unification of a neighborhood of José Saramago, "(...) we can green of the plantations and the called "Santiago". Despite the marvel, at will, at the clay dolls buildings of the scarce estates. It great transformations the temple that have taken their name from is essential to prepare ourselves, underwent, especially in the 17th Estremoz. To marvel, he says, both in terms of physical supply century, it is still possible to see and there's no better term. (...) and mental robustness, because the Order of Avis cross on the The traveler doesn't know where it is not foreseeable that we will main façade. to look (...)". And he finishes find any kind of support on the Way. Palace of the Court In the city, the religious presence Attached to the castle and the royal palace, this building dates is quite profuse, with the presence back to the time of D. Dinis and is contemporary with the of the Church and its religious construction of the castle's keep, since Master Anton's signature orders, with convents, churches, is exhibited in both monuments. The palace is preceded by a chapels, and hermitages spread galilé of five spans, which was initially covered by a wooden throughout the commune. An ceiling, however replaced by the current vault of crossed example of this is the Igreja de ogives, in the reign of D. Manuel I. In the center, a pointed Santiago de Estremoz church, portal surmounted by a sculptural frame with the insignia of founded in the reign of D. Afonso D. Afonso IV (the monarch who supposedly finished the set) III. Its edification, on the north- allows access to the audience hall, a space of trapezoidal plant western edge of the perimeter covered by a Manueline octagonal vault. wall, and in a land that would be

Eastern Way | 159 inventing "To Estremoz you will temple its appearance of total art. was also witnessed by the 1808 go, its dolls you will see, your Oil paintings attributed to André inscription accompanying the soul you will save" (in Viagem a Gonçalves and azulejo panels by chapel's marble choir, in which Portugal). Teotónio dos Santos illustrate the the inhabitants of Estremoz miracles of St Elizabeth of Aragon. thank her divine intervention for The city also reveals the statue The importance of the Holy the protection granted during of Rainha Santa Isabel (Holy Queen for Estremoz population the French invasions. Queen Elizabeth), by the sculptor Martins Correia, which evokes the importance of D. Isabel of Aragon for Estremoz. The Queen, D. Dinis' wife, elected Estremoz as her place of residence for long periods and died here on July 4, 1336. She was herself a pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela in 1325, shortly after the death of D. Dinis, and there are still signs that point to a second pilgrimage in 1335. The list of miracles attributed to her was approved by Leon X in 1516, and the queen was canonized in 1625.

Integrated into the Pousada Professor Joaquim Vermelho Municipal Museum de Estremoz hotel, the Rainha The building construction dates back to the 13th/14th century Santa Isabel Chapel also evokes and it underwent renovations in the following centuries. You the importance of the Queen's can visit there the permanent exhibition, which is divided into memory in Estremoz history. two floors and located at the top of the popular art collections The oratory was built in 1659 by (horn, cork, and wood) by artisans such as Mestre Rolo, José Queen D. Luísa de Gusmão, but Vinagre, or Joaquim Velhinho. The reconstitution of an Alentejo the whole is, however, worth House from the end of the 19th century is also presented, and the magnificent works carried on the ground floor, the Estremoz figurative and local pottery out on the initiative of D. João V, collections from the last two decades of the 19th and early between the 20s and 30s of the 20th centuries. 18th century, which gave the and also... Traditional Fair of Estremoz − May centuries and is part of the cultural identity of this Rainha Santa Isabel Festival − July commune. More than one hundred different figures Traditional Fair of Santiago − July are inventoried and new themes are invented every Festivities of Exaltação de Santa Cruz − September day, always related to the daily life of the Alentejo Festivities of N. Sr.ª dos Mártires − September people, in their rural and urban living. The skillful Estremoz Dolls hands that work with clay give life to the emblematic The production of clay figures, commonly known figures that, with their bright colors and unique as "Estremoz Dolls", is an art with more than three shapes, enchant those who pass through here.

160 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Evoramonte Estremoz 11 Distance 25 km TIPS Gadanha Lake Maximum altitude 493 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Former Council House/Alcaide-Mor House Cumulative increase 662 m SOUSEL a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Santiago Neighborhood Cumulative descent -608 m and a map. 21 km Duration 7h00m Rainha Santa Isabel Chapel Difficulty (0-5) 4 PUBLIC ENTITIES Santiago Church ESTREMOZ Estremoz City Council Santa Maria Church +351 268 339 200 500 m São Francisco Church 25 km Estremoz Parish Councils 400 m Montado Alentejano (Santa Maria and Santo André) 300 m (Typical Alentejo Cork and Holm Oak forest) EVORAMONTE +351 268 323 577

Elevation 200 m Serra d’Ossa (Moutain Range) 100 m SUPPORT Vineyards 0 m Bank/Cash Dispenser 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 25 km HEALTH Distance CTT Post Office Estremoz Health Center Tourism Office/Casa de Estremoz +351 268 337 700 +351 268 339 227 Back to the central square, we cross the with the reddish vineyards in the autumn Pharmacy road and enter Rua das Correias, following period. After almost 3 km, in front of a farm Santo André de Estremoz the signs that indicate Ermida de S. Brás with an atypical circular house, we detour to Parish Social Center +351 268 324 842 immediately to the left. We go up until the left, to the dirt track. Further on we see Supermarket USEFUL CONTACTS we find the gate of Monte da Alagoinha, the motorway and pass through the lower Emergency: 112 and then access, on the left, a dirt track to tunnel, always following the macadamia POINTS OF INTEREST Forest Fires: 117 Estremoz Fire Department: Herdade da Junceira, along 6 km. road until a junction. Prof. Joaquim Vermelho +351 268 337 360 Municipal Museum Estremoz Civil Protection: +351 268 080 250 In the middle of the cork oak forest, we see On the right we see Estremoz in the horizon! Marqueses de Praia e Monforte Palace GNR − Estremoz National Republican Guard: the marks of the periodic harvests of the Another passage through the motorway, +351 268 322 804 Estremoz Castle valuable cork, transformed into stoppers, now on a viaduct and, straight ahead, we PSP − Public Security Police: +351 268 338 470 "cocharros" (sort of spoon to drink water reach the bustling intersection of the N4 “Bonecos de Estremoz” from the fountain, typical from Alentejo) and national road. We walk 150 m on the left side Clay Pottery Figurines many other items. of the road and, very carefully, cross the N4 Living Science Center to the other side, next to the white house From the nearby Herdade da Defesa we with blue stripes on the corner. We can see continue along the trail between the cork the continuation of our way up to the walls oak forest and across the plateau, now also of Estremoz. www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT with aligned olive groves and vineyards. The www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt estates Herdade da Junceira and Herdade da After a slight ascent, we reached the bastion Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, Defesa are reference areas for hunters, but wall and penetrated this fortification through collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't now the land is fenced to protect cattle and the Porta de Évora gate. On the right, we bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals crops, and we are forced to deviate and enter continue the stone path, next to the wall, or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates the road (N381), near a viaduct over the Tera and enter the Castle through Rua do Arco de and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. stream, fortunately with little traffic. Along Santarém. Inside the wall of the citadel we the way, the landscape looks like a mosaic, go to the Municipal Museum for information. In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians where the yellow of the stubble alternates only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. Ribeira Ramilo EM

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Ribeira Piscina EASTERN WAY stage Estremoz Sousel 12

Museum of Christs

A village of great historical location does not correspond historical background has been interest of the Middle Ages, to the original. It intended to lost since long ago, and even the Sousel is a true municipality with slightly imitate the Manueline municipal heraldry has changed. history, the same that helps to pillories, through an octagonal But the discreet Capela de São explain the origins of its name, shaft, rings, with a pine cone- Sebastião, far from the historic shrouded in great controversy. shaped end. It is known that, in center and composed only of For many, the origin is in the 1940, the pillory of Sousel was a single nave and main chapel, phrase pronounced by D. Nuno dismantled and was later rebuilt, remains an identity element of Álvares Pereira, the kingdom’s reusing original elements. Sousel's heritage. constable at the time of D. João I - "Ora Sus a Ell" - in 1834, in According to legend, Sousel D. Nuno is once again mentioned prayer during the battle to was once plagued by a major when we refer to Igreja de defend against the Castilians. For epidemic. The population, Nossa Senhora da Ourada, others, the name comes from desperate, prayed to St Sebastian which, according to tradition, the fennel Seseli, which grows and, soon after, the epidemic was built in the exact place wild in the local fields. ceased. Grateful, the inhabitants where Nuno Álvares Pereira of Sousel built a chapel in honor would have gathered in prayer, Documented since the mid-13th of St Sebastian and the image of before the Atoleiros Battle, century, the tradition pointing the saint became the dominant held near Sousel, as indicated to D. Nuno Álvares Pereira as figure in the municipal heraldry. by an inscription from the the founder of the locality is Even today, in the hall of the city 17th century. Another tradition nevertheless fictitious. The town council, there is a bas-relief with admits that Sousel’s foundation became the county seat in the St Sebastian figure, and the main was due to D. João I's Constable, 17th century, date of the pillory celebration was also celebrated a fact that doesn't correspond construction whose current on January 20, the saint day. This to reality, but was portrayed in

Eastern Way | 163 the azulejo cycle applied to the nave of the church. The temple is still of Gothic construction, but from this first foundational only remains part of the choir’s vault. The temple’s current appearance dates back to an extensive renovation carried out in the 18th century, from which the main altarpiece, the marble pulpit and, in particular, the blue and white azulejo panels are also due.

Ancient Monastery of St Paul's Hermits The convent of Santo António was founded in 1605, from a hermitage dedicated to that saint, which was managed by a local confraternity. The monks of Azambujeira Convent (Avis), in the meantime closed by order of the General Chapter of the Order of St. Paul, moved there. The current complex dates back to a reform carried out in the first half of the 18th century when not only a new church was conceived, but also the temple was filled with gilded wood carvings, mural paintings, and azulejo tiles, thus contributing to one of the most important elements of the built heritage of Sousel. The main chapel's azulejo panels depicting episodes of the life of St Paul Hermit stand out. Pillory of Sousel

and also... Mediterranean Flavours Festival − May citizenship and the development of society. Cattle Benediction and White Cake Feast − May The museological project is based on the collection Festivities in Honnor of Nossa Sr.a da Orada − August of Christ images, consisting of 1486 pieces, mostly Museum of Christs crucifixes of the most varied types, origins, and epochs. The purpose of the Christs Museum Project is to This collection was acquired by the Municipality of study, research, document, conserve, interpret and Sousel, on February 19, 1990, to the Lobo family, heirs disseminate the collection of sacred art that is part of of the late Venceslau Lobo, from Borba. Over the years, its archive. Its mission is to cover scientific, cultural, the collection was grouped by the antique dealer educational and recreational objectives, aiming at himself and exhibited to the public in a warehouse in the democratization of culture, the promotion of Borba, which he called "Museu dos Cristos".

164 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Estremoz Sousel 12 Distance 21 km TIPS HEALTH Maximum altitude 430 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Health Center/Hospital FRONTEIRA Cumulative increase 224 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, +351 268 550 160 Cumulative descent -370 m and a map. Pharmacy 18 km Duration 5h15m Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES SOUSEL Sousel City Council USEFUL CONTACTS +351 268 550 100 500 m Emergency: 112 21 km Forest Fires: 117 400 m Sousel Parish Council +351 268 551 220 Fire Department: +351 268 550 030 300 m GNR Sousel − National Republican Guard: ESTREMOZ

Elevation 200 m +351 268 554 229 SUPPORT 100 m Bank/Cash Dispenser 0 m 0 km 5 km 10 km 15 km 20 km 21 km Sousel Tourism Office Distance Táxis José Delfino Lda +351 268 539 231

The reference point for the exit of Estremoz climb the mountain, already in a dirt track. POINTS OF INTEREST is the way behind the supermarket, located At the top, we have a good panoramic Sousel Pillory next to the last roundabout on road N18/IP2 view of the surrounding region, after which Santo António Convent Church, towards Portalegre. However, before that, we continue down the northern slope also called Paulistas Convent it is worth visiting the Palácio da Quinta D. towards the Cardeal site, a town near the Church Sousel Maria, producer of the wines with the same border separating the Central Alentejo from Sousel Main Church name, with access on the left, just before the the region we are heading towards, the roundabout. municipality of Sousel, already in Alto (High) Nossa Senhora da Orada Church Alentejo. Camões Tower, aqueduct We enter looking for history and flavors, and tanks and we won't be disappointed. After 2 km, Through hills and farms, we progress in we access the road that comes from Quinta the valley until we reach Sousel, where we D. Maria and pass by Monte da Granja, enter through Rua do Parreiral. To note, as a welcoming rural tourism area. A few a curiosity about Santiago, on Rua de São hundred metres ahead, we detour to the Pedro we find a house in an advanced state side road on the left, up to the old railway of degradation that has on its façade two line, which we will meet several times during scallops topped by two swords or staves, in a today's stage. One day, which we hope will style similar to that also found in Salamanca. www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT come soon, this line may be transformed It is commonly said that it is and old hostel www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt into an ecopath that will have the best route designed to receive pilgrims. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, between Estremoz and Sousel. collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't The stage was short so, at the Tourism Office, bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals We continue to the Silveirona site, turning we try to collect all the interest information or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates left towards Monte do Marmeleiro, indicated that allows us to enjoy Sousel resources, and and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. by the sign. The road covers 4 km and ends use the opportunity to discover its heritage. at the edge of small hills, turning right to In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM EM Grana N18

Ribeira Sousel IP2 EM ESTREMOZ EM Sotileira Silveirona EM Monte o Careal Monte

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Ribeira Cavaleiras Ribeira EASTERN WAY stage Sousel Fronteira 13

On the way to Fronteira, an and 100 archers. The battle memorial in the place where the Alentejo village whose vestiges took place in the marshy site of battle took place, inaugurated on of human occupation date back Atoleiros, where the Portuguese April 6, 1979. to more than 10,000 years ago, troops adopted the square we can find other vestiges, these tactic and thus managed to At the village entrance, the from a less distant past. In 1384, supplant an army composed of fountain of São João has served when Portuguese independence three times more soldiers. The travelers and pilgrims since was threatened by the siege Castilian cavalry, defeated by at least the 17th century. Its of the king of Castela and by a the Portuguese lancers, began to current configuration dates back Castilian invasion of the Alentejo, disperse and abandon the battle, to two campaigns separated Nuno Álvares Pereira, at the ending it with a victory for the from each other for almost service of the future King D. Portuguese side, which prepared two centuries. The first one João I, gathered an army of just other important battles in the took place in Baroque times over 1500 men, 300 lancers, following months. There is a when the main backboard was defined, with an interrupted and dynamic pediment and a coat-of-arms. The tank on the right side also provided with a pediment, has a simpler design, with a flat backboard and less prominent pediment. In the 20th century, the main segment of the fountain was enriched with patterned tiles, and the granite guards that separate the space between the fountain and the tarred road were defined.

The village of Fronteira was possibly founded in 1226 by D. Fernando Monteiro, master of Avis. More concrete data point to a royal intervention of D. Dinis in 1290. It is certain that the locality received a new charter from D. Manuel I in 1512, the same date of the pillory construction pillory, a patrimonial element that symbolized the municipal autonomy. The pillory is implanted in a quadrangular socle of three steps and is formed Pillory of Fronteira by an octagonal shaft with a

Eastern Way | 167 capital decorated with spheres, and a semi-spherical pine cone edge. The pillory was dismantled in 1865, by order of the City Council, and the elements remained in the custody of a private. It was only in the decade of the 30s of the 20th century that the pillory was reassembled, according to its description in the Livro do Tombo dos Bens do Concelho de Fronteira.

In 1571, King D. Sebastião ordered the enlargement of Fronteira main church, located in the castle courtyard. The Commander of Fronteira chose to build a new temple, and the works began in 1576, with Church and Hospital of Misericórdia master António Góis in charge The church and hospital of Misericórdia constitute a particularly of the works. The campaign was harmonious monumental ensemble in Fronteira. The church very quick and was practically was completed in 1583 and, from that Mannerist period, dates finished in 1594, resulting in a the main portal, in strict austerity, and the padded corners of large building, “salon-church” the main façade. In the 18th century, the ensemble was greatly type, with a monumental enriched, especially in its devotional elements. So a new façade flanked by two double main altarpiece of gilded wood carvings was built, and a new bell towers. The artistic pieces configuration was given to the finish of the façade in a counter- date back generically to the curved profile already rococo. The scenographic painting 18th century, such as the main involving the triumphal arch, in shades of blue and white that altarpiece, in black and white frames the painting from Calvary in the center, was done, and Estremoz marble, or the image of the registrars' gallery was built in marble. The hospital is annexed Our Lady of Atalaia, the church's to the church through the north side. main patron saint.

and also... Medieval Fair and Historical Recreation of the Battle 24 Hours Off-Road - Fronteira of Atoleiros This is one of the most emblematic events on the In April, Fronteira celebrates the anniversary of the off-road circuit in Portugal. It has been held annually Battle of Atoleiros with a medieval fair, traveling back at the end of November, since 1998. An endurance to the 19th century. race, which took on the national off-road big venue Balloon Flights Festival − November status, closing the season of this sport.

168 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Sousel Fronteira 13 Distance 18 km TIPS Senhor dos Mártires Church Maximum altitude 274 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Nossa Senhora da Atalaia CABEÇO DE VIDE Cumulative increase 199 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Fronteira Main Church Cumulative descent -213 m and a map. Ribeira Grande 15 km Duration 4h30m Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES HEALTH FRONTEIRA Fronteira City Council Fronteira Health Center +351 245 600 070 500 m +351 245 600 010

18 km 400 m Fronteira Parish Council Pharmacy +351 245 604 291 300 m

SOUSEL Elevation 200 m SUPPORT USEFUL CONTACTS 100 m Emergency: 112 CTT Post Office 0 m Forest Fires: 117 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km Bank/Cash Dispenser Fronteira Fire Department: +351 245 604 500 Distance Frontaxis GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 245 604 135 Supermarket We take again the Path to Fronteira, going Already off the train line, we cross the N243 Monte dos Aroeirais +351 245 605 149 down Rua Fonte do Rodrigo and then turning road, continuing along the side road until left to the Galvão neighborhood. The land is we find the N245, which leads to Rua de São Segredo D’ Alecrim +351 926 796 161 reddish, and in the landscape, unsurprisingly, João. Hostel a Estalagem +351 245 604 480 large extensions of cork and holm oak forest, olive groves and cereal fields persist. Then, on Rua da Lagoa, we head for the POINTS OF INTEREST church of Nossa Senhora da Atalaia, famous Battle of Atoleiros Interpretation Center We follow the green plains for 7 km and, for its altars decorated with wooden images Atalaia de Malhada de Penas, Ribeira when we reach the road to Santo Amaro, representing Our Lady of Atalaia, St Anne, St da Chaminé we find the village of Fronteira on our left. Michael and St Anthony. We also witness the Clock Tower The railway line keeps on accompanying us local richness, through the dawn-pink and and, in this stage, we reward it by following black marble, present in the main altarpiece, Nossa Senhora da Vila Velha Church "over" it on the long 4.5 km straight line that a valuable Portuguese roch, still extracted Misericórdia Church precedes the arrival at Fronteira, through the today in the quarries of the Estremoz region. field where the Batalha dos Atoleiros battle took place, in 1384, held in defense of the Straight ahead we climb Rua de Santa Maria national territory against the Castilians. It is to the City Council of Fronteira, where we’ll also said that the Castilian cavalry suffered find the necessary information to plan our www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT high losses, contrary to the Portuguese stay. Not to be missed, close by, is the river www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt forces, among which not a single death has beach of Ribeira Grande and its ecotourism Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, occurred, even during the hand-to-hand centre and, on the way, the church of collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't combat! This legend was very important due Senhora da Vila Velha, on a hill that is bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals to the great weight of religion in the Middle believed to be the birthplace of the village. or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates Ages, and means a proof of God's support. and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage.

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N372 SOUSEL EASTERN WAY stage Fronteira Cabeço de Vide 14

According to legend, it was at the head ("Cabeço") of a hill that the survivors of the plague that followed a Saracen attack took refuge and, recovering their health, from then on they called it "Cabeço de Vida" (Head of Life). Cabeço de Vide is our next destination, where the Roman settlement overlapped the previous occupations, known since the Neolithic period, and left a strong influence in the region. There used to pass a subsidiary road of the important road that connected Lisbon to Mérida and served the Sulfúrea thermal springs, where ruins of a bathhouse were found as well as many other archaeological vestiges of that period.

More recently, NASA researchers have also visited this valley, when it was discovered that the unusual pH (11.5) of the hyper alkaline waters of this site indicated hydrogeological conditions very similar to those of the geology detected on Mars! Sulfúrea Thermal Station

Cabeço de Vide became an those of the county. The pillory south façade, bears the cross of autonomous town by charter should occupy the place for the Order of Avis. Inside, there are passed by D. Manuel I in 1512. which it was designed, in front of still housing structures, a cistern The pillory, symbol of municipal the former city hall and jailhouse, and a well, which attests to the autonomy, dates back to that in the vicinity of the castle. occupation of the enclosure time. It is a simple and rustic interior during the late Middle heritage element, with an Although the reasons that led to Ages. It was probably at this time octagonal shaft and a conical its construction are unknown, that the castle was involved in edge in the shape of a pine cone. the castle should date from an a barbican, the last stage of the In the capital are two small relief advanced era in the Middle Ages, fortress's constitution before shields, symbolizing the alliance presumably the 14th century. it lost its usefulness in the between the crown weapons and The main portal opened on the face of the fire weapons war

Eastern Way | 171 that triumphed in the Iberian Peninsula from the 17th century Church of Espírito Santo onward. A vague tradition indicates that the Church of the Holy Spirit already existed in 1211, which is doubtful. The monument In this quiet village of ancient was completely rebuilt in the mid-16th century, according cobbled streets and medieval to a Mudejar style Manueline project, as can be seen in the houses, we find the Capela do battlements that overlook the temple's façades. The main Calvário (Chapel of the Calvary). doorway, in a perfectly shaped round arch, is already part of A curious circular temple, built the transition to Renaissance style. The interior has a single at an undetermined moment nave covered with a ribbed vault, and the main altarpiece of the 16th or 18th century. It is dates back to the 19th century. In the churchyard, we can see possible that its construction has a 16th-century wayside cross, contemporary of the temple’s been determined by a regional construction, crowned by a cross in which the Crucified Christ pilgrimage to Calvary site, but, in and Our Lady of Pity were portrayed, the ensemble being topped 1758, this tradition had already by a Holy Spirit dove. been lost. At that time, the chapel had no festivities and belonged to the Order of Avis. Inside, the dome painted in celestial blue and the painting depicting the Calvary stand out. We also discover the Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Candeias church, which already existed in 1538, when the parish priest was Pedro Leborato, a professed member of the Order of Avis. The temple, although somewhat simple, has elements from the 16th century, specifically the main portal which is of straight lintel topped by two small pinnacles at the ends and axis cross. The interior is of a unique nave, but widening in chapels near its head. The altarpieces are late baroque and profusely polychromed, the main altarpiece being opened by a large throne with the image of the patron saint. Chapel of Senhora dos Anjos and also... Summer Feast of Cabeço de Vide − July and leisure center, framed in a beautiful garden, Sulfúrea Thermal Baths of Cabeço de Vide in the Alentejo landscape. Its waters are indicated Known since the Roman occupation, the Súlfurea for osteoarticular and rheumatic, upper and lower Thermal Bathss are today an important therapeutic respiratory, allergic and skin diseases.

172 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Fronteira Cabeço de Vide 14 Distance 15 km up Rua da Associação and, just after the Praça walking all the alleys, we descend through Rua Maximum altitude 279 m de Touros (Bullring), turn right until the wide do Santo Mártir and then through a narrow rural ALTER DO CHÃO Cumulative increase 167 m Avenida da Libertação. Determined to explore alleyway to the site of the thermal baths. Before Cumulative descent -144 m all corners of the village, we go up the avenue the day is over, we still bathe in these waters, 15 km Duration 3h30m until the Parish Council, about halfway, on the unique in the country, a moment appreciated by Difficulty (0-5) 2 left side. Already with a full sackcloth and after that part of us that, literally, is closer to the Path! CABEÇO DE VIDE 500 m 15 km TIPS Cabeço de Vide Clock Tower 400 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Cabeço de Vide Castle 300 m FRONTEIRA a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Cabeço de Vide Wayside cross

Elevation 200 m and a map. 100 m HEALTH 0 m PUBLIC ENTITIES 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 15 km Health Centre Distance Cabeço de Vide Parish Council +351 245 634 206 Pharmacy

This is a stage we enjoy doing on hot days. the Ribeira Grande stream, from where we SUPPORT USEFUL CONTACTS A short and flat stage, through the new eco- get good photographic perspectives of this Frontaxis path that replaced the deactivated railway green valley. Further away, on the horizon, Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 line, which ends with the freshness of a dip in the view reaches now our destination, the Supermarket GNR Cabeço de Vide − National Republican Forja Bar the river pool of Termas da Sulfúrea medicinal white houses of Cabeço de Vide. Guard: +351 245 634 103 waters! Encouraged by this perspective, we go down the avenue of Heróis dos Atoleiros At kilometer 10 we detour from the eco- POINTS OF INTEREST towards the old railway station. On the way, path to climb Rua da Associação until the Espírito Santo Church we have the opportunity to visit the Centro entrance of Cabeço de Vide. After 200 de Interpretação da Batalha de Atoleiros metres, we reach a crossroad and we have Cabeço de Vide Main Church or Nossa Senhora das Candeias (Atoleiros Battle Interpretation Center). In this the possibility to choose the road on the de Cabeço de Vide Church museum, we discover the anonymous heroes right, which the sign indicates the direction of this battle, decisive in history. Through to Quinta do Cabeçote and also gives direct Cabeço de Vide Fortress and Fort special technology, we feel at the centre of and faster access to the Termas da Sulfúrea the battlefield and see the process of the thermal springs. If we are well supplied famous "square tactic", an English-inspired and determined to spend the night in the military technique, which led the Portuguese thermal baths, this can be an alternative army to victory. to consider. In that farm, we can't miss the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT falconry demonstration, an ancient art that www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt At the end of the avenue, we enter the eco- remains in some places of the Alentejo and Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, path, on the left, next to the old barrier station Ribatejo. In the southwest, at the Barragem collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't that used to close the Estrada de Santo da Póvoa dam, we can also fish for plenty bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals Amaro road when the train was passing. of barbels and largemouth basses with the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates We leave the city for the countryside and farm’s fishing material. and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. circulate quietly next to successive hills, as if by train. Between the olive trees, cereals and Otherwise, or if we prefer to discover the In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians streams, the Path leads us to the bridge over leafy village of Cabeço de Vide first, we go only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. N369

Ribeira Grande EM CABEÇO DE VIDE CABEÇO EM EM EM EM FRONTEIRA ER243 N245 EM EASTERN WAY stage Cabeço de Vide Alter do Chão 15

Castle of Alter do Chão

On the way to Alter do Chão we the enclosure, there are also fountain with a monumental pass by Alter Pedroso, which remains of a primitive church backboard, tripartite, with a was granted a charter in 1216. dedicated to St Benedict, whose central axis in two different The castle was probably erected image can now be found in the registers, the upper one well from that date, possibly on the church of Nossa Senhora das decorated with cartouches initiative of the Order of Avis, Neves. There is also a cistern, including allusive inscriptions to in whose possessions the town certainly medieval, and the the construction, and a rococo was established. The evolution local cemetery, which was style medallion, with the effigy of of the works in the following deactivated in the 19th century, the prince regent D. João (future decades is unknown, except that, and must have been built over D. João VI). The first Franciscan in 1662, in the midst of the war the medieval parish necropolis. friars arrived to Alter do Chão between Portugal and Spain, the in 1614 and occupied what fortress was totally depleted and Already in Alter do Chão, was to become the convent of was devastated by the invading founded as a municipality in Santo António in 1617, after the troops. Very little remains of the 1232 during the reign of D. monastery was founded by D. fortification, limited to traces Sancho II, we find the Chafariz Teodósio II, Duke of Bragança. of the wall, which formed an dos Bonecos, build 1799 by the The convent grew in importance originally elliptical perimeter, initiative of the local Council, and heritage and has been the and the main access door to the which also promoted the arrival object of grandiose works in interior, of Gothic profile. Inside of the water to the tank. It is a the 19th century. At that time,

Eastern Way | 175 convent wings were added, devotional elements were renewed inside the church and the chapel of Senhor dos Passos was inaugurated. The church has a single nave, preceded by a closed narthex and a monumental façade of three registers, the last of which is purely decorative and designed to reinforce the verticality of the frontage. Inside, the main altarpiece stands out, in white and black marble. After the extinction of religious orders in 1834, the convent was sold by public auction and housed a factory. Today, it is converted into a hotel unit.

Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves Build in the 19th century on a salient rocky outcrop, the church was substantially transformed in the 17th and 18th centuries. The main façade is austere, with a round-arched doorway perfectly overlaid by a vertical window, while on the south side stands a robust bell tower. The interior is of a unique nave, and coffered ceiling. The main altarpiece is still from the end of the 17th century, while the lateral altarpieces, which flank the triumphal arch, are already from the following century.

and also... São Marcos Fair − April of Alter do Chão was inaugurated in May 2010 and is Summer Festivities − August an exhibition space for the material collected during Interpretative Center of the Archeological Station the archaeological intervention made under the of Alter do Chão recovery project and other interventions. The Interpretative Center of the Archaeological Station

176 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Cabeço de Vide Alter do Chão 15 Distance 15 km TIPS Barreto Caldeira Square Maximum altitude 389 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Late Necropolis CRATO Cumulative increase 242 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Álamo House and Gardens Cumulative descent -246 m and a map. 13 km Duration 3h45m Coudelaria de Alter: Casas Altas (Stud-farm) Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Seda Castle Walls’ Ruins ALTER DO CHÃO Alter do Chão City Council Heritage Club +351 245 619 160 500 m Vila Formosa Roman Bridge 15 km 400 m Alter do Chão Parish Council Alter Pedroso Castle Traces +351 245 612 385 300 m CABEÇO Medusa House (Alter do Chão DE VIDE Elevation 200 m Archeological Station) SUPPORT 100 m Bank/Cash Dispenser Alter do Chão Castle 0 m 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km15 km CTT Post Office HEALTH Distance Tourism Office +351 245 610 004 Alter do Chão Health Center Táxi +351 245 619 160 Today's stage is only apparently "shorter" and slowly, in silence and without sudden gestures Pharmacy easier, but will be about 13 km by rougher is the correct posture. And, if a more curious POINTS OF INTEREST terrains. Neither will we have any supply calf comes to us, we must stop until the Santo António Convent Church point, with the exception of water and toilet audacity passes. The Path now crosses a plain USEFUL CONTACTS available in Alter Pedroso. However, it is a where we are forced to wait for the herd to Senhor Jesus do Outeiro Church Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 course with other natural nuances. We eat let us continue, and then we go up the hill to São Francisco Church Alter do Chão Fire Department: +351 245 612 314 and sleep in Termas da Súlfurea hotsprings, at the farm’s private road, which we cross. After Misericórdia Chapel and Hospital GNR − National Republican Guard: the exit of which we cross the road and turn passing the gate through a side wicket door, +351 245 612 162 to the left, in an asphalted street, deviating we leave the property directly to the centre of Santana Chapel again to the left, on a dirt track. this quiet village, through Rua do Forno. We Quinta do Pião Roman Village pass the church, but can't leave the village We cross a gate that gives us access to the through Estrada da Fonte road without first domains of Monte das Ferrarias estate and, going up to the old castle and chapel ruins. straight ahead, we arrive to its facilities. We cross through the middle without reacting We discover the geodesic landmark and climb, to some dogs and, shortly after, we leave the according to the sign indicating "miradouro" estate and enter the municipality of Alter do (viewpoint). With Alter Pedroso on our back, Chão. After a kilometre of stone pine forest, we start the descent through the asphalt of www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT we turn right into a cereal field, in which the Estrada da Fonte but, as soon as the indicator www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Path is barely defined. At the end, a wicket sign is presented, we turn right to the "anta" Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, door allows us to access the next terrain and, (dolmen) of Alter Pedroso. Further on, we collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't leaning against the fence, we turn left until we find the prehistoric dolmen, the hill ruins bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals cross an insignificant stream. We are walking and a left-hand gate on the fence, which or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates through a scattered cork and holm oak forest, gives access to the road that passes on the and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. when dozens of cattle slowly move in front northside of Monte dos Tapadões. Just over of us. We know they are meek... except when one kilometer more to the village, where we In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians the females feel their young at risk! Walking enter by the road next to the cemetery. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM Monte as Ferrarias Monte EM

Ribeira Pina

CABEÇO DE VIDE CABEÇO Ribeira Chaminé Ribeira EM N369 Alter Peroso Alter

Ribeira Sarrazola EM N245-1 EM

ALTER DO CHÃO DO ALTER Ribeira Alter Ribeira N245 EM EM245 EM EASTERN WAY stage Alter do Chão Crato 16

Grão Prior balcony

The ancient Ucrate was taken to it was only after the donation century, the works continued the Moors in the 12th century to the Order of the Hospital, in including a ditch and a barbican. and donated to the Order of 1232, that the settlement of the In the 15th century, Crato's castle the Hospitaller Knights of Malta locality and region was uprooted. was the scene of a remarkable soon after. The Cross of Malta The castle must have been built episode of the war between the is omnipresent here, attesting between that date and 1270, the regent D. Pedro and his nephew, to the town’s importance in year in which the town received future D. Afonso V: the prior of the medieval period of the a charter from the Hospitallers. the Order of the Hospital housed Grand Priory of Crato, which The importance of Crato to the the widowed queen D. Leonor incorporated an extensive region order determined many more de Aragão, and the regent D. that today reaches part of the works in the fortress, to house Pedro, in reprisal, ordered the central region of Portugal. the priory (constituted in 1340) destruction of the fortress. and, soon after, the headquarters The strategic relevance of the The village of Crato was of the order itself, a status it village determined the castle's conquered by Portuguese enjoyed from 1350 onwards. adjustment to a star fort, from troops in the 12th century, but In the second half of the 14th 1642, but the works were not

Eastern Way | 179 yet finished twenty years later when the village was besieged and razed by D. João de Áustria. For this reason, apart from the ruins of towers, a cistern, and the arches of the governor's house, very little remains of the castle.

In the Order of the Hospital’s possession, the town of Ucrate saw the birth of its main church in the mid-13th century, as can be seen from an inscription located in the temple nave, bearing the date of 1287. The current building is, however, the result of a major renovation carried out in the mid-15th century. At that time, the prior Friar Vasco de Ataíde ordered the reconstruction of the church, which acquired a body of three ships. A century Municipal Museum of Crato later, it was the turn of Infante D. In the historical area of Crato, housed in an 18th-century palace Luís to sponsor the construction that, for its beauty, has a permanent exhibition on the region of a new main chapel, in a history (from the first prehistoric occupations to the Baroque campaign that extended through period), the Municipal Museum of Crato is a recent space, the main façade, as witnessed inaugurated in 2000 and divided into three floors. At the entrance, by the main Renaissance portal the visitor can discover the traces of the megalithic and Roman that includes the Ataíde e Melo periods. The first floor offers a room dedicated to the Order of family shield. Inside stand out Malta and a collection from the Monastery of Santa Maria de Flor the body vaulting, done in 1891, da Rosa. On the upper floor, you can discover an ethnographic the main chapel coffered ceiling, exhibition dedicated to the agricultural and industrial activities of with paintings allusive to the Crato’s municipality, with vestiges of traditions that still remain Order of the Hospital, and the today, and a room for temporary exhibitions. blue and white azulejos, with representations of the Virgin Life, dated mid-18th century. was a stopping point in the The Eastern Line, as it became connection between Abrantes known, has long been under In this town, the railway station and Elvas (today between threat of closure to passenger began operating in 1863 and Entroncamento and Badajoz). traffic. and also... Crato Festival In addition to the musical shows, there is also the Feira Every year, at the end of August, the Festival do Crato de Artesanato e Gastronomia (Crafts and Gastronomy takes thousands of people to this historic village of Fair), which is one more reason to get to know the Alentejo. best things that this region has to offer.

180 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Alter do Chão Crato 16 Distance 13 km TIPS Santa Maria de Flor da Rosa Monastery Maximum altitude 306 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Parish Church – Vale do Peso ALPALHÃO Cumulative increase 218 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Crato Main Church Cumulative descent -221 m and a map. or Nossa Senhora da Conceição 19 km Duration 3h15m Flor da Rosa Parish Church Difficulty (0-5) 2 PUBLIC ENTITIES CRATO Crato City Council Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso Chapel +351 245 990 110 500 m HEALTH 13 km 400 m Santa Casa da Misericórdia do Crato +351 245 990 070 Health Center +351 245 990 090 ALTER 300 m DO CHÃO Pharmacy

Elevation 200 m SUPPORT 100 m CTT Post Office 0 m 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 13 km Bank/Cash Dispenser USEFUL CONTACTS Distance Emergency: 112 Tourism Office Forest Fires: 117 +351 245 997 341 Crato Fire Department: +351 245 990 030 We wouldn't want to miss the opportunity location of the Anta do Crato dolmen, also Táxis +351 245 996 375 GNR Crato − National Republican Guard: to visit one of the most famous stud farms locally known as Anta do Couto dos Andreiros. Supermarket +351 245 996 275 in Europe, about 4 km from Alter do Chão, so There are also many other dolmens we could we take advantage of the morning to do so. refer in this region rich in megalithic heritage. POINTS OF INTEREST On our way back, we enjoy a gluttonous Fatia da China ("Slice of China", sweet bread slices) We arrive then at a eucalyptus forest that Municipal Museum in a local pastry and leave the "Abelterium", accompanies us until we cross the ford of Padre Belo House Museum Roman name of the village, for less than a a stream (Linhais), right next to the railway Railway Station kilometre, until the trail ends on national road bridge. We will then follow its line on a narrow N245, without sidewalks and some traffic. path until we cross it. A little further on, the Bica Fountain – Vale do Peso Carefully, we travel about 2 km of asphalt to Path enters a shaded area along the Seda Grand Prior’s Balcony the IC13 junction and cross the roundabouts stream and surprises us with the medieval Nova Fountain – Vale do Peso as quickly as possible. Ponte Velha do Prado bridge. Further on, Chocanal Bridge we find our well-known N245 but, instead We continue on the other side, still on the of following it, we curve to a trail on the road but more at peace, almost without left, which leads us to the Roman bridge of traffic, even if with some effort due to the Chocanal. We face the steep ascent, with ascent of São Lourenço hill. On the way, the a high factory chimney as a reference, and www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT old "parallels" of black stone that paved the return to the N245, just off the Portas de Seda www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt old Portuguese roads replace the asphalt, and do Crato square. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, from afar we can see Crato, our destination. collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't We start to descend and shortly ahead we We continue to walk up Rua de Santa Maria, bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals find a sign indicating a deviation to the left, we pass the main church and, before turning or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates the path of Murtal, which we follow along left, we can see the ruins of the old castle on and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. the fence. On the left, at the top of the hill the right. We arrived at the Praça do Município and next to a holm oak tree, we discover the square, the end of today's stage. In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM119

CRATO N245

Ribeira de Seda

EM

EM245

EM534

Coelaria e Alter o Co

IC13 N245-1

ALTER DO CHÃO

N369 EASTERN WAY stage Crato Alpalhão 17 This stage begins in the village of Alpalhão da Fadagosa hot springs), the Crato, having the Mosteiro de Flor quality of its traditional cheese da Rosa as a reference, the most and for its craftworks. Alpalhão is a small village in the important Portuguese medieval municipality of Nisa, situated on church-fortress, designed to The Bienal da Pedra (Stone the plain between the mountain house the seat of the Order of Biennial) initiative also took range of São Mamede and the the Hospital in the country, and advantage of the region's blue river Tejo, which integrated the to which a monastery and a granite to leave numerous domains of the Order of the palace were associated. sculptures scattered throughout Templars. It is known for the the town, including an intriguing benefits of its thermal waters (a finger pointing to the sky, "Dedo few kilometers away, in Termas de Deus" (God's Finger), in the churchyard of the main church.

In this picturesque village, which encompasses an enviable heritage, we find the Capela do Calvário (Calvary Chapel). The 16th-century wayside cross evokes the funerary scopes, not only for presenting Christ crucified on one side, but also for the circular enclosure to which it is associated, recalling the layout of the Holy Sepulchre. The other side of the wayside cross shows St John the Evangelist supporting the Virgin. The whole also has a chapel that is implanted on a granite outcrop.

Monastery of Flor da Rosa According to an inscription on Founded by D. Dinis around 1300, Alpalhão Castle reflects the the bell tower, the Igreja da royal authority in an area traditionally dominated by military Misericórdia church was built orders: that of the Hospital, to the south (Flor da Rosa), and that of in 1511 and is located at the the Temple, to the north (Nisa). The Knights Templar established a beginning of Rua da Carreira, the commendation in the village, which passed to the Order of Christ main artery for those who arrive in the 14th century. The fortified complex received a great reform at the village from the south side. between 1492 and 1511, at the time of Commander Fernão da The main chapel still preserves Silva. With signs of abandonment in the 18th century, the fortress the original Manueline vaulting, was already badly ruined in 1874, and only a few traces remain with the Order of Christ cross at today. its closure. In the 18th century, the religious ensemble was

Eastern Way | 183 aesthetically updated, including the sacristy washbasin, dating Castle of Alpalhão from 1759. Founded by D. Dinis around 1300, Alpalhão Castle reflects the royal authority in an area traditionally dominated by military By its turn, the main church, orders: that of the Hospital, to the south (Flor da Rosa), and dedicated to Our Lady of Grace, that of the Temple, to the north (Nisa). The Knights Templar has medieval origins but its established a commendation in the village, which passed to current appearance is the result the Order of Christ in the 14th century. The fortified complex of a reform carried out during the received a great reform between 1492 and 1511, at the time of Baroque era. Inside, stands out Commander Fernão da Silva. With signs of abandonment in the the altar consecrated to Our Lady 18th century, the fortress was already badly ruined in 1874, and of Candles and the image of the only a few traces remain today. patron saint on the main altar.

and also... Alpalhão Sausages Fair − March was used, thus providing not one, but many "travels" Summer Festivities − August back to childhood. Toy House The Toy House, which gathers more than two hun- dred old toys made of wire, stone or rags and porce- lain dolls, is located in the old jailhouse, in the building next to the Parish Council. Each toy has a history and its own file that informs about the date and the person who offered it. It also relates and describes the children's games in which it

184 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Crato Alpalhão 17 Distance 19 km TIPS Figueiró Stream 349 m NISA Maximum altitude Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Sor Stream Cumulative increase 238 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Vereda da Sardinheira (Footpath) Cumulative descent -183 m and a map. 14 km Duration 4h45m HEALTH Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Alpalhão Health Extension ALPALHÃO Alpalhão Parish Council +351 245 742 121 +351 245 742 154 500 m Pharmacy 19 km 400 m SUPPORT 300 m CTT Post Office CRATO USEFUL CONTACTS

Elevation 200 m Nisa Taxi Rank +351 245 412 186 Emergency: 112 100 m Forest Fires: 117 0 m Nisa Fire Department: +351 245 412 303 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km 19 km POINTS OF INTEREST GNR − National Republican Guard: Distance São Pedro Chapel +351 245 742 225 São Sebastião Chapel We leave Crato by road towards Flor da Rosa, railway line as the only distinct references Alpalhão Wayside Cross but the history of the “Santo Condestável” from the surrounding forests, until you find Calvário Chapel (Constable Saint) curses us... Turning to a trail the Ribeira de Sôr stream, which marks the within walls, the Path opens in the wide main entrance to Nisa municipality. Not far from Nossa Senhora do Bom Despacho Chapel square of the village, passing the Main Church Alpalhão, we cool off at Fonte da Feteira, a Nossa Senhora de Redonda Chapel (with a replica of its sword on the frontispiece) fountain adorned with the scallop identifying Main Church and facing the imposing Mosteiro of Santa the Path, which is confirmed just ahead House Museum Maria de Flor da Rosa monastery, which is now with the first red sign indicating the GR 40 converted into an excellent Pousada hotel. It is “Caminho português Interior de Santiago – Feteira Fountain worth taking some time to discover the most Etapa de Nisa” ("Portuguese Inner Path of Nova Fountain important fortress-church in Portugal and Santiago - Nisa Stage"). Baixo Fountain enjoy a coffee on the comfortable terrace of Clock Tower the hotel's garden, in case you haven't spent We enter Alpalhão through Rua da Carreira the night there. (Carreira meaning path, from Santiago in this case), ending at Largo de Santiago. Here we We continue the Path accompanied by find the Igreja do Espírito Santo church, also an extensive bucolic and rural landscape, called da Misericórdia, whose interior has crossed at some point by a seasonal stream an image of the Apostle, which everything www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT that is overpassed through a rustic pedestrian indicates to be that of "Santiago Peregrino do www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt bridge of very old construction. From there to Manto" (St James Pilgrim of the Cloak). Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, Vale do Peso the walk is quiet, where the fields collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't alternate with woods of pine and eucalyptus. From here we continue to the Igreja bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals In this village, take the opportunity to rest, Matriz (Main Church) and at the end of our or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates visit Casa do Peso and stock up, as you won't stage, through streets of typical Alentejo and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. have another opportunity until Alpalhão. whitewashed houses , cheered by colorful

After Fonte da Bica, the Path becomes more bands that frame the windows and doors, in a In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians solitary, crossing the national road and the rural or manorial style. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. N18

Ribeira de Figueiró IC13 N246 ALPALHÃO EM119 EM1023 ER18 EM N245 EM CRATO EM1021 Flor a Rosa IP2 Vale o Peso Vale EM533 Gaete EM523-1 CM1022 EM363 EM1020 EASTERN WAY stage Alpalhão Nisa 18

Nisa's Pottery

The Açafa estate, where Nisa town outskirts, thus creating the integrated into the Misericórdia’s would be born, was donated to the two common yards (inside and heritage. Order of the Temple by D. Sancho outside), which still characterize I. Around 1290, D. Dinis ordered Nisa's urbanism today. Part of the Misericórdia was founded in 1520 the refounding of the village of Porta de Santiago gate, which and began to manage all the Nisa in the Azambujal valley, a was arch-shaped and flanked by assets of that medieval hostel. few kilometers south of Old Nisa. two quadrangular towers, is still The church dates back to the The construction of the village's preserved, and the cult of the beginning of the 16th century, defensive fence dates back to apostle remains in the toponym according to a simple and, above the end of the 13th century. The Rua de Santiago, on the north side all, functional model. The main works were directed by Lourenço of the village. portal is not subject to this rule, Martins, master of the Order as it is highly decorated and part of the Temple, who erected a Nisa used to have a hostel of the Renaissance form: it is quadrangular fence, reinforced by for travelers, sick persons and inscribed in a frame, flanked by towers. This defensive system was pilgrims since 1218, founded by columns, and has Italian motifs, the object of several renovation the master of the Order of the called "grotesques". It’s one of campaigns in 1343, 1512 and 1646. Temple, D. Pedro Alvitis. After the the most emblematic portals On the latter date, in the context of extinction of the Knights Templar, of the village. The inner space the war with Spain, the second line the hostel was managed by a of the church is relatively small of walls was erected covering the local confraternity until it was and consists of a nave and main

Eastern Way | 187 chapel. The side walls include comfortably attend the religious of Rococo style, especially its tribunes for the Brothers of services. The main chapel was main altarpiece, of white and Misericórdia, wooden balconies greatly enriched in 1791, thus polychrome wood, with a central that allowed the registrars to presenting an artistic heritage tribune.

Chapel of Santo António At the entrance to the village of Nisa, the Chapel of St Anthony was built in the 15th century but has undergone many changes over the centuries. It preserves the quadrangular narthex, accessible by a pointed arch, in which travelers of all kinds were welcomed. Inside, the ribbed vault, from Gothic times, whose closure bears the cross of the Order of Malta, is also preserved. The access to the temple itself dates back to the 17th century, as well as some artistic stuffing. In 1892, the churchyard was afforested, and in 1908 the chapel floor was replaced. The churchyard hosts many festivities, especially on 13 June, St Anthony’s day, but also in September, when the "Cavalhadas" were celebrated, a noisy pilgrimage made on horseback recreating the fights between the Christians and the Moors, promoted by the "almocreves" (muleteers), and ending in a great feast. and also... January Fair − January Nisa Festival − August Nisa's Pottery Exhibited in the Museu do Bordado e do Barro (Embroidery and Clay Museum), the potteries of Nisa are still maintained by the hands of three artisans. Today we can appreciate vases decorated with inlaid stone designs, which were used to conserve freshwater and suitable for transport through the houses.

188 | Eastern Way EASTERN PATH stage Alpalhão Nisa 18 Distance 14 km built by the Knights Templars in the 13th famous discoverer of the Maritime Way to India, Maximum altitude 327 m century. And it is said that Vasco da Gama, the lived here... VILA VELHA DE RODÃO Cumulative increase 95,6 m (Center) Cumulative descent -118 m 19 km Duration 3h15m TIPS Ruins of São Tiago Church Difficulty (0-5) 2 Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, Village Gate NISA a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Montalvão Gate and a map. 500 m Figueiró Stream 14 km 400 m PUBLIC ENTITIES Vereda da Sardinheira (Footpath) 300 m Nisa City Council

ALPALHÃO Elevation 200 m +351 245 410 000 HEALTH 100 m Health Center +351 245 410 160 SUPPORT 0 m Pharmacy 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km Bank/Cash Dispenser Distance CTT Post Office Nisa Parish We start the path in Largo do Adro square, Nisa at our doorstep, we cross once again USEFUL CONTACTS with the main church in a prominent the Figueiró stream, passing through the Tourism Office +351 245 997 341 Emergency: 112 Forest Fires: 117 position, and the “God’s Finger” sculpture old granite colts, just before reaching Santo Supermarket Nisa Fire Department: +351 245 412 303 indicating the Path. We continue along the António chapel. We enter Nisa by Fonte da GNR − National Republican Guard: Rua de Santo António cobblestone, and at Cruz square, with an old wayside cross that POINTS OF INTEREST +351 245 410 116 the next crossroad, near the water spout, we gives it its name, and we follow the signs to Misericórdia Church cross the street and continue to the one on the large square where the tourism office is the right. At the end, we turn left and start located. Santo António Church the dirt track on the right, already at the exit Espírito Santo Church of Alpalhão. We explore the town with good appetite, and Main Church here it is essential to taste two products on a Mártir Santo Chapel We walk over a plain formed almost 300 good bread from Alentejo: the Queijo Mestiço million years ago. Here, the famous biotitic de Tolosa and the Queijo de Nisa cheeses! The São Tiago Street granite of the region rules, the “Blue of latter, from the Merina Branca sheep breed, Alpalhão", applied on the buildings façades is still handmade. To accompany, we have and funerary monuments, which we can see a delicious Sopa de Cachola (Soup of pork in some nearby quarries. blood and guts) or the traditional Feijão das Festas (Tomato and bean stew). www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT We walk several kilometres alongside the www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Figueiró stream. Many peoples left its traces In July, we can watch a performance of the Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, around this territory, from the Neolithic folkloric group Rancho Folclórico das Saias collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't , dolmens and tombs to the important Bordadas da Falagueira, with colorful clothes, bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals Arab and Roman roads. Without any safer rich in embroideries that are an art on the or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates alternative, we enter the N18 national road brink of extinction. and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. and, after 1.6 km, we turn to the left, through a pleasant rural path that goes through the We also visit the ruins of the castle, which In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians middle of holm oaks and olive groves. With include the tower walls, door and dungeon, only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM

Ribeira de Nisa Ribeira de Figueiró N246 ALPALHÃO IP2 N359 EM1176

NISA EM529 N359 EASTERN WAY stage Nisa Vila Velha de Ródão (Center) 19

The vestiges of the past of the way to the sanctuary of Our Grace. Several chapels and Ródão are old, very old, mainly Lady of Grace, there is a straight vestiges of other constructions of geological nature, dated lintel portal entirely formed remain here, among wayside about 600 million years. Schist in brick. It is a halt temple on crosses and fountains. It is a and quartzite rocks, fossils of the local pilgrimage that used densely Christianised territory, trilobites and bivalves, are a connect Nisa to the sanctuary. typical of a local pilgrimage testimony to an ancient sea that Its current configuration dates destination, strongly sought used to arrive until there. But back to a major renovation after for centuries, and which there are many more traces of completed in 2005. Inside, the attracted many donations. The history, from different eras and image of the patron saint is hermitages of the Fiéis de Deus, peoples, from the Romans to located in a niche on the back Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres (the the Muslims. On the way to Vila wall of the narrow main chapel. oldest, still from the late Middle Velha de Ródão, it is also possible Ages), and of Nossa Senhora da to see traces of the Order of In the place where the first Graça are the epicenter of this Santiago’s contributions, in the village of Nisa was built, devotional center, to which part of the Porta de Santiago before it was relocated by are added four fountains and a gate that is still preserved, with D. Dinis in 1290, and where wayside cross. The site is also its arch pointed and flanked by a protohistoric settlement linked to the medieval bridge two quadrangular towers. As we used to be, was erected the of Nossa Senhora da Graça, over pass the street named Santiago, sanctuary of Our Lady of the Nisa stream. we can see that the connection to the apostle persists. There are also records of the Igreja de S. Tiago, once the second parish of the village, from where an image of St James the Moor-slayer was preserved and moved to the Ermida de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres, from where it disappeared long ago.

In the chapel of São Lourenço, located by the tarred road on and also... Cherry Festival − June Tejo's Flavours Fair Fish Soup Festival − September In June, and with the aim of showing the best of what All-saints day Fair − November is produced in the region, the Tagus Flavours Fair celebrates the river that flows through the village, presenting several activities associated with it.

Eastern Way | 191 Credits: Pimpão EASTERN PATH stage Nisa Vila Velha de Ródão (Center) 19 Distance 19 km Between olive trees, we now see a picturesque Caminho de Santiago Nascente in the Alentejo Maximum altitude 308 m and unique landscape. It covers 60 hectares of (Eastern Path to Santiago in Alentejo). Cumulative increase 473 m white, pink and grey, in the form of round stones Cumulative descent -666 m of various sizes. About 7 km later, already on a We cross the granite pillars on the bridge that is VILA VELHA DE RÓDÃO (Center) Duration 4h45m progressive ascent, we cross the N18 national part of the first road revolution in the country, and Difficulty (0-5) 3 road and climb to the top of the mountain enjoy the wonderful view that reaches Ródão Gates. range. We come across the Tejo surrounding the In spring, we often see here the griffon vulture and

19 km Talhadas mountain range and, soon next, Vila the discreet Bonelli's eagle, showing their majestic 500 m Velha de Ródão, the end of today's stage and the planar as if to greet us and wish us a.... Safe Path! 400 m NISA 300 m TIPS

Elevation 200 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, USEFUL CONTACTS Emergency: 112 100 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, Forest Fires: 117 0 m and a map. 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 18 km19 km GNR − National Republican Guard: Distance +351 272 549 050 PUBLIC ENTITIES Fire Department: +351 272 541 022 We prepare to fill the canteens in Praça da the Cabecinho viewpoint, which allows us Vila Velha de Ródão City Council República square, when we notice a nearby to see the mountain ranges of S. Mamede +351 272 540 300 panel that describes the unusual group of and Estrela, the highest point in mainland fountains existing in Nisa. We take advantage Portugal. We return to the trail and change Vila Velha de Ródão Parish Council of the dawn of the day and go through the the asphalt for green hills and fields. After 2.6 +351 272 541 011 Roteiro das Fontes (Fountains Route), in km, we find Porto das Carretas, a cement pier which stands out the Fonte da Pipa, from that replaces old stone colts, where we cross SUPPORT 1706, still intact in its original place and below the Nisa stream, if the water level allows it... CTT Post Office the ground level. Táxis After this "walk", we return to the road to find We leave Nisa through Praça do Município the village of Pé da Serra. At the foot of S. HEALTH square, crossing the arch underneath the Miguel mountain range, this village stands out Vila Velha de Ródão Health Center building and, after the Museu do Bordado e for its white houses and peacefulness, where +351 272 540 210 do Barro (Embroidery and Clay Museum), we all the more "experienced" inhabitants have a Pharmacy continue in front of the municipal road M526, tradition of wearing berets that "work both for towards Senhora da Graça sanctuary. It’s not the sun and the rain". We take this opportunity easy to get lost in the Path, with so many arrows to rest for a while, as this is the only village and and signs guiding us. We walk a little more than point of support in all of today's stage! 3 km and pass by a wayside cross, allegedly www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT erected at the entrance to the place where Nisa We continue on dirt roads along the mountain www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. "Velha"(Old Nisa) was originally located. range, between the holm oaks and pine trees, www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic which thickens with the height. We walk waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't The Path continues to the left, but here easily, without steep slopes, always through bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals we suggest a 500 m detour to the Ermida the valley of S. Miguel mountain range. On or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates da Senhora da Graça chapel, where there the other side, in the old Roman gold sky- and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not used to be a temple of the Order of the open mine of Conhal do Arneiro, the Romans vandalize the Paths signage. Knights Templar. We take the opportunity used to collect gold using the erosive force In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians to relax with the magnificent view from of water. only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM EM Ribeira de Nisa EM1005 N359 Salavessa P na Serra

Senora a Graa Senora Rio Tejo Rio So Sio So Vinagra NISA EM ER18 N364 VILA DE RÓDÃO VELHA

EM544 Monte o Paro Monte EM527 Velaa EM1002 EM Alentejo e Ribatejo

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