PORTUGAL GUIDE Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo
Central Eastern Way Way
Alentejo e Ribatejo www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com TECHNICAL FILE
© Entidade Regional de Turismo do Alentejo e Ribatejo, 2019
Texts: Guess What – Comunicação Lda., Paulo Almeida Fernandes, Paulo Cavaleiro Proofreading: Mariana Vaz-Freire Photography: Miguel Proença, Paulo Cavaleiro Technical Consultancy: Upstream – Valorização do Território, Lda. Edition, graphic conception and pagination: Guess What – Comunicação Lda., Paulo Medeiros Printing and finishing: Ondagrafe – Artes Gráficas, Lda. Circulation: 2.500 copies
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, etc.) without the prior written permission of Entidade Regional de Turismo do Alentejo e Ribatejo. www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt António Ceia da Silva | President of the Regional Tourism Board of Alentejo and Ribatejo
When we embarked on defining with our kin that, more than a the itineraries for the Caminhos pilgrimage, is an unforgettable de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo, milestone in our lives. we believed that rather than just developing a product, we were You are warmly invited to join creating a brand with heart and us on this journey through the soul that embraces an entire Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo region. e Ribatejo!
I myself have already made the In esteemed Pilgrim friendship. journey to Santiago de Com- Ceia da Silva postela on foot, a unique, larger than life experience that belongs to the collective imagination, an inter generational bonding
3 Index
The Order of Santiago 6 Alentejo and Ribatejo 10 Caminhos de Santiago − Alentejo e Ribatejo 12 Before leaving 24 Central Way 29 Stage 1 − Ameixial (Algarve) > Santa Cruz 31 Stage 2 − Santa Cruz > Almodôvar 35 Stage 3 − Almodôvar > Castro Verde 39 Stage 4 − Castro Verde > Messejana 43 Stage 5 − Messejana > Fornalhas Velhas 47 Stage 6 − Fornalhas Velhas > São Domingos 51 Stage 7 − São Domingos > Santiago do Cacém 55 Stage 8 − Santiago do Cacém > Roncão 59 Stage 9 − Roncão > Grândola 63 Stage 10 − Grândola > Alcácer do Sal 67 Stage 11 − Alcácer do Sal > Casebres 71 Stage 12 − Casebres > Vendas Novas 75 Stage 13 − Vendas Novas > Branca 79 Stage 14 − Branca > Santo Estêvão 83 Stage 15 − Santo Estêvão > Samora Correia > Benavente 87 Stage 16 − Benavente > Muge 91 Stage 17 − Muge > Santarém 95 Stage 18 − Santarém > Golegã 99 Stage 19 − Golegã > Tomar (Center) 103 Central Way − via Tagus 107 Stage 1 − Vila Franca de Xira (Lisboa) > Azambuja 109 Stage 2 − Azambuja > Santarém 113
Eastern Way 117 Stage 1 − Alcoutim (Algarve) > Mesquita 119 Stage 2 − Mesquita > Mértola 123 Stage 3 − Mértola > Amendoeira da Serra 127 Stage 4 − Amendoeira da Serra > Cabeça Gorda 131 Stage 5 − Cabeça Gorda > Beja 135 Stage 6 − Beja > Cuba 139 Stage 7 − Cuba > Alvito > Viana do Alentejo 143 Stage 8 − Viana do Alentejo > Évora 147 Stage 9 − Évora > São Miguel de Machede 151 Stage 10 − São Miguel de Machede > Evoramonte 155 Stage 11 − Evoramonte > Estremoz 159 Stage 12 − Estremoz > Sousel 163 Stage 13 − Sousel > Fronteira 167 Stage 14 − Fronteira > Cabeço de Vide 171 Stage 15 − Cabeço de Vide > Alter do Chão 175 Stage 16 − Alter do Chão > Crato 179 Stage 17 − Crato > Alpalhão 183 Stage 18 − Alpalhão > Nisa 187 Stage 19 − Nisa > Vila Velha de Ródão (Center) 191 Santiago Fighting the Moors, main church | Santiago do Cacém
The Order of Santiago conquered Western European kingdoms The Order much of the present Tagus across the Iberian Peninsula. In river’s southern Portuguese the kingdom of Portugal, the of Santiago territory, and was essential in the Orders of the Templars and settlement and socioeconomic Hospitaller Knightswere already planning of Alentejo and active, to whom the kings D. Algarve’s swaths during the Afonso Henriques and D. Sancho Middle Ages. I had entrusted the defence of important areas of the country's The origins of a peninsular center. The Order of Santiago was military religious order the last to be established, but The Order was born of the quickly supplanted the others in crusading fervour that gripped the scale, dynamism and relevance. medieval imagination, buoyed by The Order wasn’t founded with the conquest of Jerusalem in 1099 that name. It originated among and other successful campaigns the friars of Cáceres, consisting in the Holy Land. In the 12th of thirteen warrior-priests who century, Muslim strongholds came together in the second half were also being conquered by of the 12th century whom King
6 | The Order of Santiago Sacred Art Museum | Grândola Santiago church | Alcácer do Sal
Fernando II of Leon recognised as The Order of Santiago third time from 1482 onwards, a militia in 1170. Some time after, in Portugal a moment when ‘land-taking’ probably in common accord with In Portugal, the oldest documents was a thing of the past and a the archbishop of Santiago de on the Order of Santiago date closer proximity to the court was Compostela, or because Santiago back to 1172, the year in which it advisable. (Saint James) the Apostle was the inherited the territory of Arruda The military influence of the Kingdom of Spain’s patron, the dos Vinhos from King D. Afonso Spatharii dominated the first half friars then adopted the name Henriques. In a short space of of the 13th century. After having Order of Santiago. The uniquely time, it went south of the Tagus conquered the important port of peninsular scope of the Order river to actively participate in the Alcácer do Sal (the main shore was evident in its statutes: to kingdom’s war efforts. The Order base for the Muslim fleet), the protect not only the southern settled in the castle of Palmela in Order of Santiago was entrusted borders of the Iberian Peninsula’s 1186, but the Islamic reconquest with conquering practically Christian kingdoms, but also the of 1191 interrupted the the entire south of what today pilgrims who came to Santiago de construction of a convent there. is mainland Portugal, under Compostela cathedral to worship The town once again became the command of future Grand the apostle’s tomb. Its seat was the Portuguese Santiagan capital Master D. Paio Peres Correia. established in Uclès (Cuenca) until Alcácer do Sal was finally In just two decades, the Order from 1174 onwards. conquered in 1217, and for a of Santiago became the most
The Order of Santiago | 7 Azulejo tiles panel – main church of Samora Correia | Benavente
powerful landowner of the de Mascarenhas is best-known. of war and religion, works of kingdom, holding sway over a In the first half half of the 16th art sponsored by high-ranking territory so vast it extended from century, he was patron for noblemen of the Spatharios Samora Correia to Tavira, and the construction of a grand hierarchy, structural traces on from Almada to Aljezur. altarpiece for the main church local toponyms or simple and To provide support for its (originally the mosque) which discreet landmarks in properties. manoeuvres in the south, the celebrated the life and legend of Given the military nature of the Order’s seat moved to Alcácer the Apostle Santiago. campaigns in the Alentejo and do Sal and then Mértola. The In the south of the country, Algarve, many artistic commis- true capital was Alcácer do Sal, the vast quantity of churches sions portrayed Santiago as a where the Spatharii built a grand dedicated to Santiago came Christian warrior on horseback, convent, known in medieval about thanks to the conquests showing no mercy to a huddle literature as the ‘meysom d and administration of the Order of terrified foes, which became alcaçar’, next to the castle and of Santiago, which also left many known as the religious iconog- mother church. In Mértola, further traces such as palaces of raphy of Santiago Matamouros where the Portuguese ancillary’s its former Commanders, castles (Saint James the Moor-slayer). In seat was established between preserving the memory of the truth, the Order never imposed 1248 and 1482, the architectural knights who conquered them, a single form of representation legacy of commander D. João the tombs of celebrated men and Santiago continued to fre-
8 | The Ordem of Santiago Keep of Beja Castle
quently be represented as a pil- sic constituent of the adminis- The cross of the Order grim and apostle, with the south trative land management of the of Santiago of the country revealing the Order of Santiago, headed by a The cross used by the friars of most complete narratives on its main castle. For the same rea- Santiago is red and has two life in azulejo (tile) panel. son, the commanders were also sidebars in the shape of fleur- the alcaldes of these fortresses. de-lys, while the vertical tail Management and integra- The Order of Santiago in Portugal resembles a sword. The banner tion into the crown’s estate was runned by the grand master was white and, besides the The Order was presided over by of Uclès until 1452, the year in cross, it depicted scallop shells, a grand master, elected by 13 which the Portuguese ancillary the emblematic symbol of the knights, in memory of the 12th gained autonomy from its Castil- Jacobean pilgrims. century founding members. ian counterpart. During the reign Religious discipline was upheld of the King D. João III, from 1551 by a superior religious officer(pri- onwards, the Order was integrat- or-mor), while the management ed into the crown’s estate and of the commendations was the was subsequently managed by responsibility of a chief knight the Portuguese monarchy. commander (comendador-mor). The commendation was the ba-
The Order of Santiago | 9 View over the Tagus from Portas do Sol | Santarém
The Caminhos de Santiago where the sun’s golden glow blurs Alentejo Alentejo e Ribatejo cross two with the endless plains, dappled very distinct territories: different with battlements of whitewashed and in their customs and traditions, dwellings. It’s a land of quietude, in the way their peoples live, in marking the rhythm of its peoples, Ribatejo the colours of their landscapes and the authenticity of its still- and the experiences they offer. intact regional identity. With an Enjoy all their Although they may differ, they unrivalled natural patrimony intimate charms share a distinctive genuineness and terrain, it has embraced a at Nature’s pace. that makes them unique and rural way of life, which grants its differentiates them from alllandscapes distinct and unique others that help define the characteristics. Once known as country’s borders. To travel these the country’s “barn”, it is Portugal’s Caminhos is to enjoy all their largest region, a name that not charms at nature’s pace. only symbolises its landscapes, but also an ancient way of living. The Golden Plains Its uses are also ancestral, from The Alentejo’s landscape which traditions have arisen, to stretches as far as the eye can see, be savoured at the table, heard
10 | Alentejo and Ribatejo Embroidery and Clay Museum | Nisa
View of Alter Pedroso | Alter do Chão
in the Cante Alentejano, seen (River’s Edge), for having the Tagus and festivals. In the Ribatejo in its monuments, its ceramics river as its neighbour, the river version it is danced to the sound and tapestries, and celebrated in that crosses and weaves through, of accordions, fifes, mouthorgans, festivals and religious processions. making its lands fertile and a harmoniums and clarinets. The All of which can be taken home in constant source of inspiration. figure of the‘Campino’ (cattle the form of outstanding products: Besides the marshes there are helder) reigned, dressed in a the richness of the olive grove moorlands, rice fields that the red waistcoat and green cap. transformed into exceptional Tagus bathes more thoroughly, Its cultural heritage includes olive oils, the richness of the and the neighborhoods, with their the azulejo tile work, panels of pastries that satisfy the gluttony, golden grains. The lushness of the vibrant colour that represent five the honey, the smoked ham… meadows provide nourishment centuries of history and adorn for livestock and a stage for the both exteriors and interiors; the The green of the ‘Lezírias’ ‘merry dance’ of herds of wild rustic bread, the tomato and The plains become lezírias - bulls and horses. A region with a the rice, ingredients of a unique marshlands of the Ribatejo, culture marked by its traditional cuisine, the art of basketry and expanses of green where once costume and by its dances, such the coopers’ woodworking, golds reigned. A region that many as the fandango, already popular which symbolise the union still refer to as ‘Beira do Tejo’ (Banks on the 18th century among between Man and Nature. of the Tagus) or ‘Borda d’Água’ nobles and commoners in fairs
Alentejo and Ribatejo | 11 Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Embark on a journey through a land of unique peoples, customs and landscapes.
Santo Antão Church | Évora
THE CENTRAL WAY taking part are unable to resist cultural expressions that are part the enchantments revealed of the social and cultural history Journeying on the Caminhos along the way. More than a of the communities found in the de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo journey, it is to experience Alentejo and Ribatejo. These can is a promise of adventure, of landscapes which, though manifest themselves as unexpected discoveries, of a different, share the fact of flavours, the traditions and the history preserved in people’s being unique, reverberating like life experiences from which memories, a story that unfurls echoes in our memory. they arose, or the handicrafts, at every stop. Journeying on the To experience the Caminhos the festivals and religious Ways is to relive that history in de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo processions, art and customs. the traces that the passing of is more than a journey, it is It is a rich heritage, at once time failed to erase, it is making an experience like no other, diverse and authentic, that the the traveller a witness to a which marks us, and which we visitor encounters on these narrative revealed in its tangible treasure. One we will want to Ways, a journey forged on the and intangible heritage, in its repeat. contact with manifestations lands, towns and curiosities, its of a symbolic value that is cuisine, peoples and customs, Flavours and traditions recognised worldwide, which those that have gone and those When we talk about Intangible grants us an experience both that continue to be, and who by Cultural Heritage, we mean the stimulating and memorable.
12 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Mértola
Beja Regional Museum
The Alentejo and Ribatejo’s melancholic harmony, drawing Used to warn us of approaching intangible cultural heritage in all those who listen. cattle, this rural melody refuses has on four separate occasions Found across almost the entire to be silenced by the brute been recognised by UNESCO, Alentejo, this art form is most force of modernity, intent on which included them on a typical of the districts of Serpa rendering it obsolete. comprehensive list of Intangible and Beja. In the Ribatejo, the beating Cultural Heritage of Humanity, heart of the art of falconry is that travellers can see for From cowbells to falconry found in Salvaterra de Magos, themselves by taking these Ways. Most common in the district taking us back to a time when Such as ‘Cante Alentejano’, the of Alcáçovas in Viana do the Portuguese royal family traditional Alentejo song, which Alentejo, cowbells are still used to spend long periods needs no introduction. A kind of being produced, or more hunting there. musical expression which, more accurately manufactured, an Opening onto the natural than simply music, is a sharing of art UNESCO felt deserving habitat of the Tejo estuary, here feelings, from nostalgic saudade of the status of intangible we now find an educational and (missing something or someone) heritage, in recognition of the environmental interpretation to love, where irony and precariousness and challenges centre, besides the ‘river humour are also present, and it faces to keep going versus museum’ Cais da Vala. where voices come together in encroaching globalisation. Hewn from clay, the figurative
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 13 Professor Joaquim Vermelho Municipal Museum, Estremoz
Santiago Church | Alcácer do Sal Marvão
ceramics of Estremoz also Alentejo and Ribatejo is rich. which is 500 years old, the earned the recognition of Rich in things to do, in music procession of the Romaria a UNESCO first as nationaland in local colour. The streets Nossa Senhora da Graça in Nisa, intangible cultural heritage and spruced up and decorated for or the Golegã Horse Fair that subsequently of Humanity. A the occasion, stages readied to goes back to the 16th century. technique that stretches back welcome the music that plays more than 300 years, many are such an integral part, the Ways Castles, Museums the handmade clay figures to grant visitors an opportunity and a Wealth of Nature have emerged from the kiln to to enjoy festive traditions that More than just rest stops, the be colourfully decorated, and so astonish for their sheer diversity different stages of the Caminhos it continues today. We can see and scale, and which involve and de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo them for ourselves in Estremoz, mobilise entire communities, are opportunities to discover either at the Municipal Museum through traditional dances towns and cities, the secrets they or at the shops and ateliers that starting with the fandangos of hide, the architecture, museums sell them. the Ribatejo and Alentejo, and and their history. At each stop, the characteristic skirts and take the opportunity to visit its Festivals, Fairs puppetry of the Alentejo. Take points of interest. The dilemma is and Processions for example the Feira de São which to choose. The festive calendar of the João (St John Festival) in Évora,
14 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Santa Cruz, Almodôvar Marvão
Alcácer do Sal
No Alentejo specimens. The Way continues, passing The Central Way passes through In the town, the Museum through Alcácer do Sal, which Santa Cruz, where the Parish of Southern Writing (Escrita has one of the most important Church, built in the 16th do Sudoeste) reveals to us examples of Renaissance century, is home to a rather the immense archaeological architecture in the country: unusual icon of Jesus in the richness Capela das Onze Mil Virgens (the Garden, where one can see of the district and, in particular, Chapel of the Eleven Thousand represented the sweat turning the singular destiny of a people Virgins). In white marble, with into blood. Further ahead, in the which invented its own written a dome covered in translucent medieval town of Almodôvar, language between the 7th and jasper that captures the sun’s the riverine landscape invites 5th centuries BC. rays, colour bathes the sculpted us to savour the crystal-clear Because the Ways to Santiago forms, attributed to António waters of Ribeira do Vascão, are much more than simply Rodrigues, an architect during stream located within the hiking trips, the dam of the reign of King D. Sebastião, Special Protected Area of the Campilhas, built in 1954 in who was influenced by the Guadiana valley, dotted with Santiago de Cacém, offers the Italian master Michelangelo. watermills and weirs. If you pay chance to try out all kinds of A city where one can also close attention, with a little luck non-motorised water sports and learn about the Lenda da you may spot a few rare wildlife recreational fishing. Costureirinha (Legend of the
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 15 Castro Verde Windmill Santiago do Cacém Municipal Museum
Bones Chapel | Évora
Little Seamstress), told over species that typically make This is a perfect example of a much of the Baixo (Low) their home in such habitats. hall church with three naves and Alentejo region, where many are The alluvial valleys that open rib-vaulted ceilings illuminated those who claim to have heard onto the Tagus, Sorraia and by six rectangular windows. the sound of a sewing machine Almansor rivers are like genuine Within is found the shallow that never stops. According to islands interspersed among grave of Nuno Velho Pereira, one legend it is seamstress who the characteristic dryness of of the most significant figures sews for all eternity, after having the highlands. The shore lands of the period of Portuguese made a wedding dress for her that embraces the Tagus and imperial expansion, a captain daughter who died before the all waterlogged areas offer far of India and a patron of the marriage. greater biodiversity, where almshouses of the Santa Casa da European migrating waterfowl Misericórdia. There one can also Journeying through and others from southern see a pipe organ from 1818 that Ribatejo climes can be spotted, such as was restored in 2008. For nature lovers, the journey the Black-winged stilt and reed It is here in the Ribatejan capital through Benavente is a chance warbler. that the gateway of Porta de to do some serious birdwatching In Santarém, Misericórdia Santiago is found, the main and in the meadow and wheat church, built in the mid-16th entrance to Santarém castle, fields see scarcer, less common century (1559) is worth a visit. where one can see a coat of
16 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Nossa Senhora d'Aires Sanctuary | Viana do Alentejo Santa Cruz Parish Church | Pombalinho
Escaroupim | Muge Ancient Castle of Messejana
arms of the Fernandinos of than being satisfied with the land of knights and their steeds, Portugal, as well as the Portas result, the king was sorely the Equuspolis Cultural Centre do Sol, nowadays a panoramic displeased, considering the with its equestrian library is viewpoint built on city walls public money poorly spent. And worth a look, as is the Fórum with three turrets. so, at the tower’s summit on Manuel Fernandes or the Mestre The Ways, just like history itself, the iron structure supporting Martins Correia Municipal are full of tales that are yet to the bell, the King ordered 8 Museum. be confirmed and since became ‘cabaças’, or gourds, to be legend, such as that of Torre placed there, symbolising the das Cabaças tower, which tells heads of the 8 men responsible THE EASTERN WAY that during the reign of King for its construction. D. Manuel, since Santarém As the Central Way draws to a History is also written was lacking a clock tower, the close, we arrive to Golegã, a on buildings monarch was asked to make this place to stop and rest ever since Not far from where we set off, a reality. A sum was donated to the nation’s early days, where the Eastern Way takes us to pay for its construction, which once there was an inn belonging Mértola, eight local councilmen were to a woman from Galicia, known where the castle is practically a nominated to ‘oversee’. But as Venda Galega, which later mustsee. once it was complete, rather gave its name to the town. A Founded on far more ancient
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 17 Roman bridge | Almodôvar
Palafitte port of Carrasqueira | Alcácer do Sal
structures, it was built in presence. in the 17th century but which Christian times, its keep going Through its Azulejo pannels, still has traces of the Manueline up in 1292 by order of Dom a legacy of five centuries of period, such as the battlements João Fernandes, Master of tile painting that also tells the of the south wing. With a single the Order of Santiago. It is an history of the city, Beja offers us nave, the domed roof greets archaeologically rich site and a flashes of colour, indoors and us with magnificent frescos, prime location to look over the out. painted with sacred and profane city and its surroundings. A homage to the art of working decorative motifs. Further ahead, Beja reveals in clay awaits the visitor in Évora, Évora has a lot to offer its visitors, itself to be a wonderful place in the form of an actual village such as Praça do Giraldo square, to observe nature, above all the going by the name of Aldeia da baptised in homage to Geraldo birdlife, its county lines serving Terra (Earth Village), considered Geraldes the Fearless, to whom as the place of ‘pilgrimage’ for by many as the funniest in the reconquest in 1165 of Évora about two hundred species. The Portugal. from the Moors is attributed. opportunities for birdwatching This 3D cartoon strip is a marvel Baptised the ‘white city’ of the are substantial, species such as of well-observed, irreverent Alentejo, Estremoz has its own the osprey, scrub robin or black- good humour. 16th century church, the Igreja bellied sandgrouse gracing Not to be missed is Igreja de São de Santiago, which is known to the most attentive with their Tiago (St James Church), rebuilt have existed since the reign of
18 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo Cante Alentejano (UNESCO) Santa Maria da Alcáçova Church | Santarém
The Almendres Cromlech | Évora Frayões Metello House | Grândola
D. Afonso III (1245-1279, and Dating from 1356, this As we come to the end of the celebrated for its bell tower, monument consists of three Eastern Way, there’s still time to triangular marble gable with a separate structures: the visit Nisa, with its 17th century cross, the 18th century picture church-fort in the Gothic style, pillory, which looks today much window and over the doorway, a Gothic castellated palace and as it did then; the shrine of the cross of the Order of Aviz. convent priories. Meanwhile Ermida de Nossa Senhora da The medieval castle in the Crato, influenced in daysGraça, famous for its religious centre of town stands out for of yore by the presence of procession which takes places its keep that is 27 metres high, Megalithic shepherds and their every Easter, or the traditional one of the best preserved in habits and culture, also reveals red clay ceramics, pitchers and the whole country. In 1336, this traces of other stories in its jars decorated with small white became the last resting place of dolmens, or antas. As a matter stone flower motifs. Queen Santa Isabel, who died in of fact, in this municipality her chambers there. alone over 70 have been Along the Tagus river In Crato, Mosteiro de Flor da documented, most prominent When leaving Lisbon on the Rosa monastery is one of the of all being the dolmens found Central Way, we embark passing most original and intriguing at Anta do Tapadão and Anta through Vila Nova da Rainha, the Gothic buildings in the country, do Crato, designated national setting chosen for the wedding now home to a Pousada hotel. monuments. of the royals D. Nuno Álvares
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 19 Wayside cross in Viana do Alentejo castle Sulfúrea Thermal Baths | Cabeço de Vide
São Miguel de Machede
Pereira with D. Leonor de Alvim, wild ducks, choughs and many implies another journey, that of celebrated on 15 August 1376. other animals. The Way also the taste buds. Even so, it is by Further ahead, in the Ribatejo passes through Cartaxo which using words that we shall try to town of Azambuja stands the has been, throughout history, explain the best these regions church of the brotherhood of an important waypoint to the have to offer. Senhor Jesus da Misericórdia interior of the country, either de Azambuja, designated a by river (the Tagus) or land, and Bread and wine on the monument of national interest. opens onto the magnificent table According to history, it was at plateau of Santarém. Traditionally, bread and wine the turn of the 18th century that are essential on a Portuguese the confreres of Espírito Santo REGIONAL CUISINE table. And whether we take the (Holy Spirit) founded there a The culinary richness of the Central or Eastern Ways, good brotherhood and medieval Alentejo and Ribatejo needs wines and wonderful breads hospice, with the aim of helping no introduction. Here, words are guaranteed wherever the pilgrims, passers-by and the cannot do justice to the feast traveller goes in the Alentejo, poor patients. Or we can that awaits, failing to adequately in what is one of the main contemplate the small islands express the emotions it inspires winemaking regions in the emerging from the river, which in us. Our passage through country. The combination of are home to eagles, egrets, these ports of call always different grapes, rooted in the
20 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo warm earth, has resulted in a in the ingredients, harvested the table, becomes the main variety of wines, from whites from a region which has long attraction in dishes such as to reds, that make it difficult to enchanted us with its flavours, Açorda à Alentejana and the take your pick. So, there’s no and has resulted in a knowledge Migas, and is the perfect better reason to taste it, raise passed from generation companion for the Sopa de a glass and make a toast that is to generation, constantly Cação (dogfish soup),Sopa celebrated as far as the Ribatejo, reinventing itself without ever de Tomate or the Ensopado a land of wines whose origins are losing its identity. de Borrego (lamb stew). Also lost in time and are inextricably All begins with the appetisers, on the menu is the lamb or linked to the nation’s identity. the fresh, cured goat and sheep pork Sarapatel, partridge or Thanks to a diverse range of cheeses with an unmistakable freshwater fish, from lamprey to soils and climates, wich ends up flavour and smell; the Alentejo carp, grilled or fried, and always being reflected inside the bottle, presunto (ham), the paio do seasoned with aromatic spices the god’s nectar lives up to its cachaço (pork neck sausage), redolent of the smells of the promise. the farinheira (a sausage with Alentejo. flour and spices),linguiça , As for the Ribatejo, the menu is On a full stomach morçela and painho… no less impressive or easier to Simplicity is the key to the But that is just for starters. choose from. Alentejo cuisine. It is reflected The bread, which never leaves Let’s begin with the appetisers,
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo | 21 the barbecued pork chouriço, boiled potatoes. Rala and Sericaia of the Alentejo. the winecured sausages, the Whoever passes through the Closer to the coast, menus give black pudding (morcela) and Alentejo or the Ribatejo knows off a tang of the sea thanks farinheira, the cured goat, it’s also bound to be a sweet to the Açorda de Marisco (a sheep and cow-milk cheeses experience. The reason for this seafood bread stew), Feijoada that tantalise the taste buds. is the honey, varying from place de Búzios (bean stew with Following we have Sopa da to place but always sweet, and a whelks) or Mariscos (shellfish), Pedra (’Stone’ soup, but these repertoire of cake making across and the Arroz de Lapas (rice with days served without), Feijão both regions inherited from the goose barnacles), and lest we com Couves (bean stew with nuns. forget, Salada de Choco or Ovas cabbage) and also the Sopa Eggs, sugar and almonds are (cuttlefish or roe salad) and de Peixe, or fish soup. Next is blended together in perfect Polvo à Pescador - freshly-fished the Magusto com Bacalhau harmony to whet the appetite, octopus. Assado (oven-roasted cod with in Ribatejo cakes and pastries cornbread mash), the mullet such as the Queijinhos do of the Fataça na Telha, eel à Céu, Pão de Ló, Sopa Dourada, Ribatejana, the roast lamb, fava Manjar Celeste or Pampilhos or beans with chouriço or the Iscas the Pastéis de Santa Clara, Bolo com Elas, strips of fried liver with Podre, Tibornas Doces, Pão de
22 | Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo
Before leaving prepare your trip thoroughly
The Caminhos do Alentejo e Ribatejo are about 30 days away from Santiago de Compostela, which is why you need to be physically prepared for a challenging itinerary. Making the journey is always a pleasant surprise, but it is vital to be in good shape to ensure your days are comfortable, and to awaken the spirit to a more absorbing experience.
Plan the distance you intend to cover each day, studying the Guide and any other information that may be available on the Internet. Familiarise yourself with where assistance is available, the places with cafés and restaurants, and ensure accommodation at the start and end of each stage is available.
It is recommended to do some Pack only the essentials. journey’s stages. On the Ways, training before embarking The first days of your trek will it is important to ration water on this journey, so you are soon reveal how superfluous carefully, for many stages do absolutely clear about your certain items are. As a rule, not have any assistance points physical capacities. Long stages try to ensure your backpack and take place under adverse impact the following days and weighs no more than 10% of high temperatures. insufficient physical preparation your body weight and comes can lead to muscular pain with handy compartments: Make an informed decision as which will only get worse as one for documents, credit/ to which time of year suits the body is subjected to further debit card and phone charger; you best for making your exertion. another for a first aid kit; a third pilgrimage. To avoid the heat for some food. Don’t forget to of the south and interior of Choose walking shoes you take a waterproof raincoat that Portugal, the months of March, have already worn in, not too fits over your backpack and April, May, September and tight and which your feet are flip-flops for showering if you October are advised, but bear used to wearing. You can only intend to stay in hostels. Also in mind that some months make the journey if you have essential is a water container see more rain than others, the healthy feet. suitable for the difficulty of the closer you get to Compostela.
24 | Before leaving CODE OF CONDUCT
All who take part in the the conservation of flora, • Be careful around livestock. Caminhos de Santiago fauna and vegetation; Although they are docile, Alentejo and Ribatejo should they do not like it when • Avoid making unnecessary bear the following code strangers approach their noise; of conduct in mind. young. • Observe wildlife at a safe A significant part of the distance; recommended itinerary routes cross private • Do not damage or collect properties, to which their samples of plants or rocks; On urban parts of the journey, owners have permitted the signs are specifically meant access. For this reason: • Do not drop litter and leave for pedestrians. Other means of no trace behind you. The transport such as bicycles, should • Respect private property; itineraries permit interaction respect official traffic signage. with agrosystems where • Leave all gates as you farming, fishing or forest found them. If they were activities take place, and closed, make sure you have are important to preserve. closed them properly; The definitive tracings of many Carelessness or a failure stages may have undergone • Only follow the marked to follow recommended changes after the publication of ways; actions may have serious this roadmap. Before leaving, it consequences. • Be polite with locals. All is essential that you check the routes cross areas that are • Don’t light fires and think correct itinerary on the site www. relatively environmentally twice before discarding caminhosdesantiagoalentejo sensitive, namely as regards cigarette butts. ribatejo.pt
CONTACTS: www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt
Before leaving | 25 Credencial do Peregrino/ Posto de Turismo/Tourism Barco/Boat/Barca/Bateau/Schiff Pilgrim Passport /Certificat du Office/Oficina de Turismo/ Pélerin/Pilgerausweis Office du Tourisme/ Comboio/Train/Tren/Train/Zug 1x Tourismusbüro Fácil/Easy/Fácil/Facile/Leicht Assistência Bikes/Bike Repair/ Correios/Post Office/Oficina Réparation Vélo/Fahrrad 5x Difícil/Hard/Difícil/Difficile/ de Correos/Bureau de Poste/ Reparatur Schwierig Postamt
Albergue/Hostel/Albergue/ Centro de Saúde-Hospital/ Miradouros-Paisagem/ Auberge/Hostel Health Center-Hospital/Centro Lookouts-Scenery/Mirador- de Salud-Hospital/Centre Paisaje/Belvédère-Paysage/ Hotel Médical-Hôpital/Ärztezentrum- Aussichtspunkt-Landschaft Turismo Rural/Rural B&B/ Krankenhaus Biodiversidade-Natureza/ Turismo Rural/Tourisme Rural/ Farmácia/Pharmacy/Farmácia/ Biodiversity-Nature/ Agrotourismus Pharmacie/Apoteke Biodiversidad-Naturaleza/ Camping Pousada da Balneário Público/Public Biodiversité-Nature/ Juventude/ Camping Youth Shower/Duchas Públicas/ Biodiversität-Natur Hostel/Camping Albergue Douches Publiques/Öffentliche Juvenil/Camping Auberge Dusche Vinicultura-Adegas/Viticulture- de Jeunesse/Camping Jugendherberge Museu/Museum/Museo/ Wineries/Vinicultura-Bodega/ Musée/Museum Viticulture-Cave/Weinbau- Restauração/Restaurante/ Weinkellerei Restaurant Igreja/Church/Iglesia/Église/ Kirche Praias Fluviais-Piscinas/Fluvial Supermercado/Supermarket/ Beaches-Swimming Pools/ Supermercado/Supermarché/ Edifícios Histórico-Arqueologia/ Supermarkt Historical Building-Archiology/ Playa de Río-Piscina/Plage Edificio Histórico-Arqueología/ Fluviale-Piscine/flussstrände- Café/Coffee Shop/Cafetería/ Monument Historique- Schwimmbad Café/Café Archéologie/historische Gebäude-Archäologie Entidades Públicas/Public Banco-ATM/Bank-Cash Entities/Organismo Público/ Dispenser/Banco-Cajero Taxi automático/Banque-Guichet Organisme Public/öffentliche Automatique/Geldautomat Autocarro/Bus/Autobus ämter
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26 | Before leaving The Itineraries Two Paths to take full of countless pleasant surprises.
Alentejo e Ribatejo
Central Path Central Path via Tagus Eastern Path Raia's Path 440 km 40 km 383 km 310 km Stages Stages Stages Stages (Municipalities)*
. 1 Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1. Alverca (Lisboa) Azambuja . 1 Alcoutim (Algarve) Mesquita . 1 Mértola Serpa 2. Santa Cruz Almodôvar 2. Azambuja Santarém 2. Mesquita Mértola 2. Serpa Moura 3. Almodôvar Castro Verde 3. Mértola Amendoeira da Serra 3. Moura Mourão 4. Castro Verde Messejana 4. Amendoeira da Serra Cabeça Gorda 4. Mourão Reguengos de Monsaraz 5. Messejana Fornalhas Velhas Central Path 5. Cabeça Gorda Beja 5. Reguengos de Monsaraz Alandroal 6. Fornalhas Velhas São Domingos via Atlantic 6. Beja Cuba 6. Alandroal Vila Viçosa 7. São Domingos Santiago do Cacém 110 km 7. Cuba Alvito Viana do Alentejo 7. Vila Viçosa Elvas 8. Santiago do Cacém Roncão Stages* 8. Viana do Alentejo Évora 8. Elvas Campo Maior 9. Roncão Grândola 9. Évora São Miguel de Machede 9. Campo Maior Arronches 1. Castro Verde Ourique 10. Grândola Alcácer do Sal 10. São Miguel de Machede Evoramonte 10. Arronches Portalegre 2. Ourique Cercal 11. Alcácer do Sal Casebres 11. Evoramonte Estremoz 11. Portalegre Marvão 3. Cercal Santigo do Cacém 12. Casebres Vendas Novas 12. Estremoz Sousel 12. Marvão Castelo de Vide 13. Vendas Novas Branca * Digital format only. 13. Sousel Fronteira 13. Castelo de Vide Alpalhão 14. Branca Santo Estêvão 14. Fronteira Cabeço de Vide * Digital format only. 15. Sto Estêvão Samora Correia 15. Cabeço de Vide Alter do Chão Benavente 16. Alter do Chão Crato 16. Benavente Muge 17. Crato Alpalhão 17. Muge Santarém 18. Alpalhão Nisa 18. Santarém Golegã 19. Nisa Vila Velha de Rodão (Center) 19. Golegã Tomar (Center)
www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt www.visitalentejo.pt | www.visitribatejo.pt | www.visitportugal.com COIMBRA
CASTELO BRANCO
Alentejo e Ribatejo VILA VELHA DE RODÃO TOMAR
NISA
CASTELO DE VIDE
GOLEGÃ ALPALHÃO MARVÃO
PORTALEGRE CRATO SANTARÉM ALMEIRIM ALTER DO CHÃO
CARTAXO CABEÇO DE VIDE MUGE AZAMBUJA ARRONCHES SALVATERRA DE MAGOS FRONTEIRA CORUCHE BENAVENTE SOUSEL CAMPO MAIOR
VILA FRANCA SAMORA DE XIRA CORREIA BRANCA ESTREMOZ SANTO ELVAS ESTEVÃO LISBOA EVORAMONTE
VENDAS NOVAS MONTEMOR-O-NOVO SÃO MIGUEL DE MACHEDE VILA VIÇOSA
ÉVORA ALANDROAL CASEBRES
REGUENGOS ALCÁCER DO SAL DE MONSARAZ
VIANA DO MOURÃO ALENTEJO
ALVITO GRÂNDOLA CUBA
RONCÃO MOURA SANTIAGO DO CACÉM BEJA
SINES SÃO DOMINGOS CABEÇA SERPA ALJUSTREL GORDA MESSEJANA PORTO COVO FORNALHAS VELHAS AMENDOEIRA DA SERRA CERCAL CASTRO VERDE MÉRTOLA OURIQUE
ODEMIRA CENTRAL PATH MESQUITA ALMODÔVAR CENTRAL PATH via Tagus CENTRAL PATH via Atlantic SANTA CRUZ EASTERN PATH ALCOUTIM RAIA’S PATH AMEIXIAL CONNECTION ALGARVE - ALENTEJO CONNECTION ALENTEJO/RIBATEJO - CENTER ALJEZUR
ROTA VICENTINA - Historical path VILA REAL DE AIRPORT SANTO ANTÓNIO TRAIN TAVIRA BUS via Lisbon
BUS via Faro and Tavira FARO CABO PILGRIM PASSPORT S. VICENTE WAYS GUIDE
Caminhos de Santiago Alentejo e Ribatejo
Central Eastern Way Way
Alentejo e Ribatejo
CENTRAL WAY stage Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1
“... the traces identified witness the transit of pilgrims through the old roman route which crosses the Serra do Caldeirão in Santa Cruz de Almodôvar; formerly one of the most used routes in the connection between Algarve and Alentejo, from where arrived, in 1249, D. Afonso III, at the head of his army, to conquer Faro and Albufeira.” (José António Falcão, “O Caminho e o Culto de Santiago no Alentejo Meridional”, in No Caminho sob as Estrelas – Santiago e a Peregrinação a Compostela, pp. 97-141)
Coming from Ameixial (Algarve), we enter Alentejo via overlying Ribeira do Vascão, a reverse route of the one once used by the Grandmaster Paio Peres Correia and his Knights of Santiago, On the way to Santa Cruz integrated in the host of D. Afonso III, to conquer central Algarve. we discover the valley of Ribeira offered to us, with the modesty do Vascão, a well-kept affluent of and satisfaction of those who Not only a strategic region for its the Guadiana river, exuberant in live from earth’s generosity, importance as a place of passage biodiversity and freshness, even which has been providing for between the Algarve and in Summer, inviting you to take their subsistence for more than Alentejo, it was also the place a desirable break on the hidden 80 years. The public fountains where the terrible Remexido set pebble beaches. of Monte Branco remind us to the last bastion of King Miguel’s refill the canteens before getting guerrilla, which followed the On the way to Monte Branco, back on the Way in the direction civil war in the mid 19th century, we witness the transition from of Santa Cruz, more exposed and leaving a trail of terror and the Mediterranean scrubland dry at that time. violence that contributed to the landscape, typical from Caldeirão, exodus of populations. to the cork and holm oak forest, Three kilometers later, “fitted” with some disperse olive groves, on the landscape in an unusual With the “weight” of History foreseeing the next wavy plain of place, the magnificent Igreja de hidden in each step of the Way, Alentejo. A small orchard gave us Santa Cruz appears, bounded to we leave behind the biggest the oranges that Mr. Diamantino the commendation of Mértola slopes of Serra do Caldeirão and and his wife, D. Maria José, by the Order of Santiago. As
Central Way | 31 mentioned by José António The civil parish of Santa Cruz, in from 2011), is the first village of Falcão, the grandeur of the the municipality of Almodôvar, the Central Way of the Caminho church, rare in rural parishes, with an area of 123,82 km2 and de Santiago Alentejo and denotes its influence as aaround 650 inhabitants (data Ribatejo. pilgrimage pole. The pilgrims’ houses were contiguous and they would also go to an alleged Church of Santa Cruz sacred fountain that flows from a The construction of this Manueline church is credited to the cliff nearby. patronage by the family of D. Fernão Mascarenhas, a noble who received the commendations of the Order of Santiago in Mértola The whole is complete with the and Almodôvar in the transition to the 16th century. The coat of ruins of the chapels of São Bento arms of Dona Violante Henriques, wife of D. Fernão Mascarenhas, and Nossa Senhora da Lapa… is stored in the main chapel, framed by a Renaissance sgraffito. and with the “hole” in a slab The church was bounded to the Order of Santiago since the nearby, which the people believe beginning, as we can see by the cross in the main façade, above to heal headaches!... the temple’s access portal, in the first keystone of the main chapel, which includes the cross with the two scallops, and the emblem of Santiago in the vestry’s washbasin. Santa Cruz
This stage ends in the village of Santa Cruz, the first village of the Central Way in Alentejo, around 15 km after exiting Ameixial. The visitor’s accommodation is provided in social infrastructures managed by the Parish Council, which should be previously contacted for proper reservation, as well as a deserved visit to the church.
and also...
Spring Festival S. John’s day in 1999, and its name came up The arrival of Spring is celebrated in Santa Cruz because in ancient times the monda (weeding in March, at the Centro Cultural de Santa Cruz − in Portuguese) was a job frequently done by the Almodôvar. women of Santa Cruz parish. Founded in June 23, 1999, this group is composed Choral Group of more than ten elements and its hymn is “Nós “As Mondadeiras” somos as mondadeiras” (“We are the mowers”). This group was born They already hold a vast repertoire, with some from the creation preference for the music linked to Almodôvar’s of the ethnographic district, to country life and Cante ao Menino (typical parade held on singing style from Alentejo).
32 | Central Way CENTRAL PATH stage Ameixial (Algarve) Santa Cruz 1 Distance 15 km TIPS WARNINGS Maximum altitude 421 m Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, ALMODÔVAR Cumulative increase 434 m a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, In Santa Cruz village there is no commerce Cumulative descent -534 m and a map. to supply the traveler, and the only local 20 km Duration 3h45m coffee shop (A Colmeia do Vicente, D. Paula, Difficulty (0-5) 3 PUBLIC ENTITIES Phone No.. 965 836 403) should be contacted SANTA Santa Cruz Parish Council before the start of the day so that they can CRUZ +351 963 713 025 be prepared to serve meals to those who 500 m 15 km will spend the night there. Prior contact is São Barnabé Parish Council 400 m also essential with the parish council, Junta +351 286 463 134 300 m AMEIXIAL de Freguesia (Phone No. 286 453 119, from (Algarve) Elevation 200 m SUPPORT 8.30am to 4.30pm, or President of the parish council, Mr. Eduardo Gonçalves, Phone 100 m CTT − Santa Cruz Post Office 0 m No. 963713025), so that you can arrange 0 km 2 km 4 km 6 km 8 km 10 km 12 km 14 km 15 km Boerderij Vakantie Portugal accommodation and any other support you Distance +351 962 344 843 may need. All the usual resources for supply Santa Cruz: Café Colmeia do Vicente and continuation of the trip can only be found The Alentejo begins at the Ribeira do Vascão Alternatively, you can arrive there in other at the end of the next stage, in Almodôvar. stream, but the traveler will probably come ways: POINTS OF INTEREST from the Algarve, specifically from the village Santa Cruz Parish Church USEFUL CONTACTS of Ameixial, where ends the previous stage of - Leaving Ameixial, where the previous stage, Vascão Stream Emergency: 112 those who took the Path from Faro. coming from Faro, ends, the route extends Forest Fires: 117 in easy trails to the valley of Ribeira do HEALTH GNR - Almodôvar Territorial Station: From here, the route stretches along pleasant Vascão, passing through Revezes village and +351 286 660 051 trails between the successive hills until Ribeira continuing to Cascalheira mill, for a total of Dogueno Health Center (Santa Cruz) do Vascão. We pass through the village of about ten kilometers; +351 286 454 108 Revezes and continue along the valley to the old water mill called Cascalheira, for a total of - By the municipal road 1029, which connects about ten kilometers. Ameixial to Revezes, proceeding on a trail from there, intersecting with the Caminho Once we have dipped our feet in the stream Algarvio that will follow for three kilometers or crossed the pedestrian bridge next to the until the entrance to the Alentejo; mill, we continue straight through the Vascão valley until we reach the site of Monte Branco, - Coming from the north, by the road where the friendly resident couple always that leaves the village of Santa Cruz in the www.visitalentejo.pt CODE OF CONDUCT welcomes the visitors! direction of Alcoutim, Martim Longo and www.visitribatejo.pt Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. www.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt Cachoupo, taking the right on a nearby Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, crossroad and following the signs of Cerro das collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don't Águias and Monte Branco do Vascão, on a dirt bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals road. Arriving at Monte, the road gives easy or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates access to the trail's beginning at the Ribeira and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage. do Vascão.
In urban areas of the route, the signage marks are for pedestrians only. Other means, such as cycling, should respect traffic signs. EM EM504 SANTA CRUZ SANTA
Corte Jo o Mar es Corte Ribeira da Corte da Ribeira MONTE BRANCO VASCÃO