Finding More Missing Pieces of a Puzzle in a Maze
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FINDING MORE MISSING PIECES OF A PUZZLE IN A MAZE continuing the benthic exploration of channels and fjords in Southern Chilean Patagonia As an intricate system of fjords, labyrinth of channels and islands, each exemplifying different stages of glacial action and associated successional periglacial ecosystems, the Chilean fjord region offers extremely diversified benthic communities which, despite being unique worldwide, have been among the least studied so far. This region is threatened by different anthropogenic effects, such as global warming, the huge salmon farming industry planning to move into currently unprotected fjords, or illegal fishing of protected shellfish species such as ʻlocosʼ (Concholepas concholepas). In order to protect benthic fauna and monitor future changes in biodiversity distribution, it is essential to create accurate faunistic inventories. This is why we initiated a series of scientific expeditions, beginning in 2005. The first one lead us to the Guaitecas Archipelago, south of Grand Chiloé Island. The second took us to the fjords Tempano and Bernardo, including adjacent channels down to 49°S (see GME3, pp. 18–21). Enriched by our 2005 experience, we embarked in 2006 for another adventurous boat trip further south to 52°S. Our international team (seven in total) started Sample sorting through the night. gathering in Punta Arenas at the beginning of March, end of headed north through the channels along Puerto Eden as the austral summer. Some arrived directly from the Huinay well as around Isla Wellington to explore the exposed coast. Scientific Field Station, others from Germany and Belgium. We planned 2 dives/day, leaving about 9 hours of A 3 hour bus trip lead us to Puerto Natales, our departure navigation/day for the two week expedition. With a mean harbour, where we planned to embark aboard the Yepayek, speed of 63 miles/day, we aimed for a 882 mile (1600 km) a boat from CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal) that journey, an unusually long trip for the Yepayek. This two of us were familiar with from last year. This time we had required us to bring additional fuel barrels, filling the hold streamlined our logistical organization, with one assistant and even part of the deck! For two rainy days in Puerto arriving from Puerto Montt onboard the Navimag Ferry Natales, we had to wait for our brand new Zodiac to arrive conveying our ʻportableʼ scientific and scuba diving from Punta Arenas by bus. After persistent investigation equipment. This included, among other things, a three times a day, we found out that its package box was compressor, weights and 14 tanks: no less than 900 kg for too large to fit in the luggage space, and had thus been seven divers! detained until someone finally had the good idea to unpack On 3 March, the Yepayek pulled into the harbour. Our first it and squeeze it into the bus! The ʻArmada de Chileʼ (the task was to set the itinerary with Captain German Chilean Navy) hesitantly gave us clearance to leave Coronado. Leaving from Puerto Natales, we planned a trip harbour after a small break in the bad weather and we Diving from the Yepayek The Yepayek, ship of the CONAF 26 JMBA Global Marine Environment finally left Puerto Natales at the end of the afternoon on 5 Biology). Although this site was probably known by local March. We rapidly crossed the ʻGolfo Almirante Monttʼ and shellfish fishermen, this was the first scientific dive in those entered ʻCanal Valdesʼ, the first of a long series of waters. The late discovery of this area is explained by the breathtaking spectacular channels that became our remoteness and difficult accessibility of channels in this scenery for two weeks. We were continually escorted by region. However, in some areas this unique habitat albatrosses, both Pealeʼs and Chilean dolphins, even appeared already damaged by mechanical factors, most Andean condors soaring above the summits, the largest of probably due to extraction of colonies by local divers for the all condors with its 3 m wingspan. At dusk we stopped for souvenir market or inadvertent breakage from boat the night at the very tip of the ʻCordillera Sarmientoʼ, the anchors. Our inventory of the biodiversity that day was southern end of one of the largest glaciers in the world: the much longer than usual, keeping us busy until late after Southern Andean Continental Ice Cap ʻCampo de Hielo midnight since the afternoon sail north through the ʻCanal Patagonico Surʼ. Our first sampling dive the next morning Concepciónʼ under a heavy cold rain had been shaky. was in ʻCanal Vicuñaʼ, chosen as the southernmost Further north, we reached the ʻterra cognitaʼ of the sampling locality of our trip (52°S). Due to a strong current Yepayek, entering the National Park Bernardo OʼHiggins and wind, we limited our initial dive to sampling only, without (named after Bernardo OʼHiggins, Chileʼs founding father), immersing any heavy photo equipment. one of the largest protected areas in South America. With The next two weeks, our daily routine consisted of a the Torres del Paine, well known as a scenic area and morning dive after a few hours of navigation, immediately followed by further navigation into the afternoon. We could only start sorting when the boat was stopped, labelling and fixing the samples collected during the morning. This required a steady table in order to safely handle chemicals such as ethanol, formalin and glutaraldehyde, in addition to the crew trying to save enough space to gobble their dinner. As soon as our sampling containers were empty, we could prepare for the second immersion of the day. Dives usually lasted one hour with water temperatures ranging from 8 to 11°C. A main concern was to keep the inside of our dry suits ʻdryʼ while getting dressed and undressed under the constant rain. Despite these precautions, after a few days some had to admit that the weather and leaky suits would make the rest of the expedition quite uncomfortable! The raving beauty of the underwater scenery however, would maintain our high enthusiasm above all else. Refilling the freshwater tank of the At the end of the fourth day, a stop over in the small Yepayek was rarely a problem, as harbour of ʻIsla Guarelloʼ where is located the most austral waterfalls of freezing melt water from the nearby giant glacier were countless limestone mine of the world operated by the Compañia Minera del Pacifico, gave us a delightful chance to enjoy an unexpected shower. That evening, while conversing with challenging mountain climbing our host Raul over the company bar, we expressed our destination, both parks include highest respects to Arturo Prat, Chilean national hero. We over 90% of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. This also lost any hope for improvement in the weather: Guarello area extends over 37.000 km2, records the maximum rainfall for Chile with 9.000 mm/yr following the main Andes spine and its peak in… March and April! for approximately 350 km in a The nearby ʻCanal Copihueʼ was our objective the next north-south direction. Unfortunately the park otects only the morning, and there we discovered an unexpected paradise: terrestrial parts of the area, while the marine environment at minus 20m the seafloor was mainly covered with the lacks any protection status. hydrocoral Errina antarctica. This formed a spectacular cold In this relatively uninhabited region, the land of deep water coral reef-like structure never seen elsewhere in fjords, spectacular glaciers, and dense sub-Antarctic Patagonia, sheltering an abundant variety of sponges, rainforests, we reached Puerto Eden. This is the only small nudibranchs, crabs and even expanded gorgonocephales. fishing village within the park limits, the inhabitants of which The colonized surface area was estimated to be at least include some 70 Kawaskar, or Alacalufe — the indigenous 10.000 m2 (Häussermann & Försterra, online first Polar Guarello harbour JMBA Global Marine Environment 27 ABOVE LEFT TOT RIGHT: Fusitriton magellanicus. Chiton bowenii. Visit of Octopus tehuelchus while we were sampling sponges. canals and fjords, among which is the “Canal Messier” with its impressive bathymetric record: -1350 m! Although we did not reach such depths by SCUBA, diving along endless walls was exhilarating just the same. On our way back to Puerto Eden, we made a final stopover in Fiordo Bernardo in order to visit a ranger station built on the shores of the Iceberg Fjord located in the northern section of the park. It provides a base for studies of the little known wildlife in the region of the sparsely inhabited Archipelago of Southern Chile. As we sailed into the fjord against an impressive current, we realized that an immense pouch of freshwater had been released by the rupture of an ice dam, perhaps only a few hours before our visit. This caused large morphological changes, such as the creation of two new rivers that were 10 m across and over 5 m deep, thus making it physically impossible for us to The Navimag Puerto Eden cruising through the fjords. reach the ranger station. We could only celebrate the end of Photograph by Vreni Häussermann our expedition and the success of our dives, while enjoying people of the archipelago. Current inhabitants of the park Pisco on millenary ice cubes, a unique privilege to those make a living by artisanal fishing and shellfish gathering. approaching the immense “Campo de Hielo Patagonico CONAF also has a home base in Puerto Eden, where we Sur”. That night onboard the Yepayek was cold, with the docked overnight in order to unloading empty fuel tanks surrounding water at only 1°C. The following day, after used during the first leg of our trip as well as to empty our again reaching Puerto Eden we were invited to share a trash and refill our freshwater supply.