For the 26/11/2015 7:26 pm E d d y ROAD Merckx with cycling’s greatest cycling’s with Our long-awaited chat long-awaited Our Cyclist hits the historic the hits Cyclist roads of Albany, WA west

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ISSUE 18 ISSUE PRINT POST APPROVED PP100009560 APPROVED POST PRINT CYC18_001_Cover-v2-WA.indd 1

The thrill of the ride 18 January 2016 // Issue 18

56THE BIG RIDE Way out west Cyclist goes cross-country – literally – to explore the roads in and around Albany, WA

CYCLIST 11 ED’S Welcome to the latest issue of Cyclist magazine LETTER

ecently, our sister publication, Cyclist UK, hosted an online discussion entitled ‘Who is the second best cyclist of all-time?’ It generated a fair amount of debate among Cyclist readers, who argued for the likes of Hinault, Coppi, Anquetil and even Armstrong. RNo one questioned, however, why we were only looking for the number two. That’s because there is no argument about who is the greatest cyclist the world has ever seen: . Adam Scroggy, Since we launched this magazine almost three years ago we’ve been keen Editor to get time with Merckx for an interview and photo shoot, but it hasn’t been easy. Merckx is a fairly private individual who has no love of the limelight and little inclination or need to talk to journalists. We would make discreet enquiries about whether Mr Merckx would be able to spare an hour or two, only to be told that he was not doing any interviews at the moment and that we should try again another time. When, finally, he did agree to meet us, we were both excited and nervous. What if he just wants to get it out of the way? What if he views us as just another bunch of intrusive hacks and responds to our questions with a shrug and a one-word answer? He always came across as pretty moody and brooding during his time as a pro; what if he’s still like that? After all, every journalist has a sad tale of the time they met their hero, only to have all their illusions shattered. We shouldn’t have worried with Merckx. Charming, witty, opinionated and passionate about his sport, he proved to be the man, the hero, the legend we hoped he’d be. You can read all about it starting on page 70. All I’d love to get your thoughts about Cyclist so that along with your usual mix of expert insight, performance tips, bike and we can keep improving the magazine all the time. gear reviews, stunning Big Rides and more – we’ve left nothing in reserve. Send emails to [email protected].

@CyclistAus cyclist.com.au facebook.com/cyclistmagazine @CyclistAus 14 CYCLIST The open road Albany, Western Australia Web: cyclist.com.au Email: [email protected] Facebook: facebook.com/ cyclistmagazine Twitter: @CyclistAus Instagram: @CyclistAus EDITORIAL Editor Adam Scroggy Creative Director Paul Cook Editorial Assistant Constantina Pilatos [email protected] Staff Photographer Trent van der Jagt Contributors Alex Malone, James Witts, Michael Donlevy, Rob Milton, Stu Bowers, James Spender, Juan Trujillo Andrades, Danny Bird, Peter Maniaty, Jenni Lekinen, James Spender, Tim Bardsley-Smith, Trevor Ward, Peter Stuart, Hans Schmidt, George Marshall, Fred MacGregor, Mike Hawkins, Henry Carter, Nick Squillari Con Chronis, Tom Palmer, Veeral Patel Cover Image Tim Bardsley-Smith ADVERTISING Commercial Manager Alex Malone [email protected] 0404 991 260 PUBLISHED BY Citrus Media Pty Ltd PO Box 20154 World Square NSW 2002 CONTACT: Tel: (02) 9186 9171 MANAGEMENT Publisher Jim Flynn Financial Controller Stuart Harle Editorial Director Richard Ryan Production Manager Ian Scott

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© Citrus Media 2016. All rights reserved. No articles or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher. Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd.

Except as expressly and otherwise indicated in any specific material or editorial content, this magazine is published under license from Dennis Publishing Limited. All rights in the material, title and trademark of this magazine belong to Dennis Publishing Limited absolutely and may not be reproduced, whether in whole or in part, without its prior written consent.

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CYCLIST 17

Albany - WA

Rugged and relatively unknown, the roads around Albany showcase the region’s natural beauty and storied past. Cyclist discovers this alluring, remote location, learns of its Indigenous and colonial significance, and survives a couple of close encounters with the local wildlife... Words HANS SCHMIDT Photography TIM BARDSLEY-SMITH

CYCLIST 57 flash of feathers The magpie reminds me of one of my regular The wind farm was and Andrew ducks rides back in Sydney. The asphalt is the same an unexpected and impressive feature his head. We’re too colour, I’m riding the same bike, and even my of our Big Ride busy scanning the feathered friend appears to be a clone of its eastern roads for snakes and cousin. But we’re on the other side of the country, craning our necks 3,000km away, in a state that comprises almost over the horizon for one third of our continent. This is one of the oldest whales to notice a solitary magpie. It appears in and most biodiverse regions on earth, and yet so slow motion, spreading its wings in a fan of black often it goes unnoticed by the majority of us over and white, its shining beak locked on Andrew’s on the east coast – perhaps because the distance helmet. It breaks the silence of the dead road. is so daunting. A transcontinental crossing is no I know it’s schadenfreude, but I’m glad it small trip, especially when you have to add on a wasn’t me. He swoops again. Fortunately he’s day’s drive through the cape to the Great South, easy to spot, black against the clouds. We’re where Albany awaits. But here we are – and at beginning a descent and about to pick up speed. this moment, there’s no place we’d rather be. He changes target – karma does exist. I tuck in, get low. Hopefully I’ll outrun him. Right as rain After just a few hours – barely enough time for Wedged between the granite outcrops of Mount breakfast to settle – I’m relieved to see the road Melville to the north-west and Mount Clarence stretch down to the ocean. The water’s glistening to the north-east, and nestled on the shores of and that bird is now but a mild distraction. Princess Royal Harbour and King George Sound, There’s nothing like cresting a rise to be greeted Albany lies protected from the forces of the with a gentle downhill roll to reaffirm your Southern Ocean. The natural harbour running decision to push on when your legs are telling south of the city is the perfect area to explore by you to turn back. Even in an unfamiliar region, bike. The map looks promising, with roads and some things remain the same. tracks running the length of the peninsula.

58 CYCLIST Albany - WA

Detours are abundant as another red dirt path beckons us along Vancouver Peninsula Amazing Albany Follow Cyclist’s route, complete with detours aplenty Nestled amongst the hills, harbour and sound, Albany is very easy to navigate – just follow the water. From the seclusion of Bayside, travel south down Golf Links Road and past the Turtle Crossing to Middleton Beach, taking a left into Adelaide Crescent and Bay Merchants Cafe. Then take either the high road, Marine Drive, or the low road and bike track, Ellen Cove Boardwalk, to the historic Stirling Terraces and Albany town centre. Cross the tracks and prepare to stop for trains – don’t try any -Roubaix stunts here – and then continue along the shoreline on Princess Royal Drive, past the Brig Amity to Frenchman Bay Road. Frenchman Bay Road offers plenty of possibilities. Recommended detours include an out and back to the wind farm with a sharp short climb; an alternative route via Bay View Drive to follow the water before climbing the ridge into Torndirrup National Park; and a roll down to the Southern Ocean and Gap lookout followed by a climb to the highest point on the ride, Stony Hill. Enjoy the descent back to the sound via the beautiful ocean beach of Salmon Holes (watch out for the magpies!) and the whaling station at Discovery Bay, returning back through Goodes Beach with one last detour through Vancouver Peninsula along Quaranup Road (a gravel bike could be a bonus here). Then it’s back to Albany, with a coffee stop at Stirling Terrace then up Mount Clarence and Adelaide via Marine Drive. To reach the elusive century, try the secluded beachside bike path, Ellen Cove Boardwalk, all the way to Emu Point and back. It’s flat and perfect for spinning out a hard’s day pedalling.

200m 150m 100m 50m 0m 0km 10km 20km 30km 40km 50km 60km 70km 80km 90km

ESTERN - W AU Y ST AN R B A L L A IA Emu Point McKail Mt Clarence It’s 5am at Middleton Beach, the long stretch connecting Point King to Emu Point north of the city. The white sand glows in the morning Albany light. Although it’s November, there’s a chill in the air, and it’s wetter and windier than I like it, King but we didn’t come all this way to stay in bed. No George wonder the local Noongar people called Albany Sound Princess Kinjarling – “the place of rain.” Amongst our Royal bikes, Tim’s camera gear and a few too many Harbour jelly snakes we spread out the local 10 Great Vancouver Peninsula Rides guide to scope out some of the suggested The Albany routes. We agree on the Frenchman Bay ride, Wind Farm Little Frenchman Bay Grove which runs along the southern edge of the sound and features a series of offshoots from the main branch of Frenchman Bay Road. Total distance: Fast forward a few hours and the wind and 99.1km rain have stopped. There are still some grey clouds Total elevation: hanging over the horizon, but the roads are dry 1,162m and the air’s warming. It’s more typical of the Noongars’ Kambarang season – warm enough to ditch any jackets and warmers. Middleton Beach There’s a chill, and it’s wetter and offers a different perspective to Albany centre; the water opens up to more of the sound and windier than I like it, but we didn’t Mount Clarence hides the city behind. The flat land of the beach offers a few flat kilometres to come all this way to stay in bed warm our legs and spin out the long car trip. P

CYCLIST 59 Left: Making the Albany - WA most of the descents on the quiet roads

Below: The views south of Torndirrup National Park showcase the raw Southern Ocean power

P Heading south along Middleton Beach via Golf Links Road we pass the “Turtle Crossing”. We all turns our heads in disbelief – we’ve ridden all over Australia, but this is the first time any of us have encountered a wildlife crossing and reduced speed zone for turtles! The sign serves its purpose; turtles or yabbin (or kilong) are an important energy source for the Noongar people, whose inhabitance in this region dates back over 45,000 years. We arrive at the base of Mount Clarence and after a quick look decide we’re going to need some breakfast. We find our first coffee shop, Bay Merchants Cafe, tucked behind the beach at the base of the hill. It’s run by Anthony McCormick, an avid cyclist and Perth man who came here looking for a sea change in his favourite holiday spot. The only problem, he says, is that he’s too busy with the cafe to get out on the morning rides. Many of the people we meet have a strong connection with this town. Family histories and memories run deep here. After an assortment of hot beverages, we accept the fact that we didn’t come all this way to just drink coffee. Anthony suggests we take the bike path skirting the harbour if our legs are too cold and stomachs too full for the climb. Just as we roll out, the local club pulls in for a post-ride coffee. It’s a massive group – it seems we were the only ones in town who were deterred by a little grey and drizzle. Though the bike path lacks elevation, the granite formations contrast sharply with the ocean, exaggerating the heights and giving us a full view of the harbour and sound. This was the colony’s most important trade route P The photographer’s ride Cannondale CAAD10 Black incl. Disc, cannondale.com In a world of carbon and weight weenies paint-job. Keeping up with trends, the CAAD has remained legendary, an Cannondale have added disc brakes. aluminium frame rivalling its carbon Like or loath them they’re inevitable, so counterparts and still inspiring copies from at least Tim got the best, Sram Red Hydro, major manufacturers today. The CAAD coupled with Sram Red components, (Cannondale Advanced Aluminium Design) including the extra-long derailleur cage to series dates back to the CAAD3 with two run some larger sprockets for those gravel Giro jerseys and plenty of stage wins pinches, and the super-stiff Cannondale made famous by Mario Cipollini and the Hollowgram SI crankset. formidable Saeco squadron. The complete setup may be slightly Fast forward nearly 20 years and it’s heavier than its carbon counterparts, but still a rider’s favourite. Tim’s Black Inc. when hurtling along rock-strewn roads the edition is the top-of-the-line offering, weight is a small price to pay for the peace and apart from components the main of mind and the guaranteed stopping allure is the unmistakable exclusive power 28mm tyres and power discs offer.

60 CYCLIST Right: The best vantage points may require some climbing

Below: The vegetation offers respite from the elements, bringing back the smiles

I’m told the lighthouse and some of the old colonial buildings are haunted. They definitely feel eerie

P to England and the state’s only deepwater Andrew clinches the Turtle Crossing sprint port. We spot the historic ruins of a lighthouse on the red and grey slabs of the point and ponder how many ships it must have saved. The cliffs are scattered with ruins and old artillery bunkers, the waters dotted with immense boulders like marbles dropped in the sand. Turning the corner we look across the narrow mouth of the harbour to Vancouver Peninsula – a stone’s throw across the water by boat, but via bicycle we’re going to have to circumnavigate the entire bay. To the west we spot the wreck of the Cheynes II, an old whaler that wasn’t so lucky. We hop back on the bikes and ride into the historic centre, complete with another grounded ship (only in much better condition) called the Brig Amity. The heritage buildings date back to the first European settlement in Western Australia and originally as an outpost of the colony of New South Wales. Later I’m told the lighthouse and some of the old colonial

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buildings are haunted. They definitely feel Detours and incredible eerie, but more in the sense of abandonment. views are the norm We aren’t superstitious, but I’m sure if these in these parts walls and wrecks could talk they would.

The Princess and the King It’s not long before we’re out of town and have left the ghosts behind. We’re heading south from Princess Royal Harbour towards King George Sound. A detour beckons, a sign pointing to the Albany Wind Farm and Regional Prison (don’t get the two confused). The row of turbines looming on the horizon are finally getting closer. It’s grey, cold, windy and damp, and I begin reminiscing of Stage 2 of 2015 in . I know it’s not Europe, but it’s close enough, right? Andrew shakes his head. We look around; there’s only gravel and, not fancying a bush walk in cleats, we ride down the next dirt trail we can find. It leads right to the base of a turbine – it never takes long to P

CYCLIST 63 I catch the flare of light off a lens. Tim always chooses the steepest ramps to be sure he captures our pain faces

P be rewarded when venturing off the bitumen path. The turbines are enormous, with what seems like only a light breeze keeping the blades spinning, the force of the wind evident in the ‘whoosh’ as a tip flies by and the motor rumbles and groans. But right now we need more pedal power, not wind power. Back on Frenchman Bay Road, we take the quiet route by the bay before an undulating climb up onto the ridgeline entering Torndirrup National Park. It’s clear we’ve now left the protection of the harbour, a slight headwind fresh with the tang of salt. This is the Albany Doctor, a southerly gust from the Antarctic that picks up speed over the Southern Ocean and drops temperatures upon landfall. Rolling through the middle of the peninsula we meet one of our local contacts, Carl Beck. A keen rider, we ask him about the ominous clouds and chill in the air. He gives us a look that suggests we might just be soft Sydney folk. ‘This is pretty standard,’ he says. ‘It’s never wet enough to stop you going out in the morning.’ We follow Carl down past a lighthouse to a lookout called The Gap and a rock formation known as the The Natural Bridge. The ferocity of the Southern Ocean is arresting. The water heaves, and the shoreline is blurred with mist and ocean spray as far as the eye can see. Cliffs and slabs have been cut sheer, a smoother and lighter shade of grey, a result of the constant weathering. The climb out of the ocean continues up to Stony Hill, a granite cairn rising above the trees. At this point, Carl conveniently has to “head back to the office.” We watch his solitary figure roll down the long road with the turbines and town in the distance, like a single ant marching down a line. Without even a grimace, Andrew stands up and pushes the pedals down and through with ease. I quickly start flicking through gears, hearing the twang and strain of the chain as the grade steepens. I sit up, drifting back, watching Andrew and the incline increase

64 CYCLIST Albany - WA

ahead, when I catch the flare of light off a lens. Tim always chooses the steepest ramps to be sure he captures our pain faces. From the highest point on the ride we can see over the dense, windswept scrub. We make out the road carving a path through the thickets of banksia, their tops all level, pruned and shaped by the southerlies.

Coolbardie and Mamang We turn our backs from the summit and grip firmly on the bars, enjoying the tight corners with the gradient in our favour. Discovery Bay is in sight and we keep rolling, trying to hold speed all the way to the ocean, craning our necks over our shoulders and shrubs in anticipation of a glimpse of a whale at any moment on the horizon. Our watch is interrupted by an encounter with Coolbardie – the magpie. In Noongar Dreaming, magpies were responsible for propping up the sky. With sticks in their beaks they pushed the sky and clouds higher and revealed the sun and the first sunrise. Their boastful dawn chorus celebrates the sunrise every day. It makes me wonder if it isn’t defence that has made him so aggressive; perhaps he’s just agitated the sun hasn’t come out much today. We reach the furthest point on our ride and the resting place of the Cheynes IV whale chaser. I can’t imagine the idyllic and raw beauty of the ocean’s turquoise water and white sand bustling with commercial whaling, but both the Indigenous and European histories in the area are closely linked to the practice. The Noongar regarded whales as totems, made specific utensils for whale meat (taap), and still retell stories of Mamang, a large whale, P Above: Just 1km out of the city and the greenery, granite and ocean immerse you

Left: Things get a little wild on the bikes too

Right: Refuelling with the locals at Bay Merchants Cafe

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By the numbers Because everyone loves a good stat 1,162 Metres climbed. Although we barely broke 200m above sea level, the undulating terrain The Indigenous packs a punch 203 and colonial Recorded elevation of histories in the Stony Hill, the highest area are closely point on the ride 99.1 linked to whaling Strava’s recorded distance of our Big Ride. If I knew, I would’ve done those P and a local man who dives into its belly. The extra laps of the carpark wrecks of the Cheynes whalers, meanwhile, tell a very different tale. It’s interesting to think that what was once the largest whaling port in 40 the Southern Hemisphere has now become one The maximum temperature of the leading wind energy producers in the of the spa at Ocean Mist country less than 25 years after the last whale Villas. Though ice baths are was butchered. recommended after exercise, I strongly prefer this option Bound for war Some 80km later and we’re back in Albany. Mount Clarence appears ahead and it’s deja vu 15 as Andrew suggests another coffee. Why not? Total hot beverages It’s not a daunting climb, but the cafes are always consumed by Andrew, Tim tempting. Plus, the sun has returned and is and me during our Big Ride baking the historic sidewalks of Stirling Terrace. We sit, chat and bask, then share a nod. Helmets are back on and up we go. 0 At the turn-off we go right for Mount Adelaide, Tetrapod encounters home to the National Anzac Centre perched on the hillside and almost falling into the waters where the convoy was docked. It’s a tranquil location to commemorate the 41,000 Anzacs that left these shores. We promise to return a little more appropriately dressed to pay our respects. Top: Another descent, It’s nearing sunset (we often get carried another opportunity for Andrew to attack away during these riding and shooting days), so we turn and roll along the saddleback to Middle: It’s not every day you park up next Mount Clarence through the tree-lined Avenue to a whaling ship of Honour. As we crest the climb we’re greeted Left: Albany contrasts with the huge bronze horse of the Desert Corps modern architecture Memorial backlit by the golden rays of the sun. P with its shipping roots

66 CYCLIST Ditch the road for the bike path to Emu Point

Every view has a story to tell on Mount Clarence

Padre White observed a wreath being laid in the sound below – this was Australia’s first recorded Dawn Service

P The memorial was brought to Albany after its partial destruction in the Suez crisis in Egypt. Look closely and you can still see the bullet holes in the foundations. We then catch our breath at Padre White Lookout – named for Arthur Ernest White, who served as an army chaplain. The lookout marks the spot where he led the congregation from St John’s Church along a dirt track to the top of Mount Clarence and observed a wreath being laid in the sound below. This was Australia’s first recorded Dawn Service. Gazing out over King George Sound – Discovery Bay to the south, Middleton Beach east, the wind farm backlit with the setting sun in the west – we can almost spot our hotel. Home in sight, we bomb down the fast and wide descent to the beach. It’s a flat spin back. We’re nearly home with 98km covered. Should we go for the century? “Why not?” replies Andrew, and we take a little detour to Emu Point. Wanting to avoid any tetrapod traffic, we opt for the bike path, but we didn’t expect to be dodging doves, horses and blue-tongues. Thankfully, this time there were no magpies. Nearing dusk, it’s a safe bet Coolbardie and Padre White will both be resting till the dawn. ]

68 CYCLIST Albany - WA

How we got there Follow in our wheeltracks TRAVEL ACCOMMODATION Bay Street Merchants – CHEERS We flew Virgin Australia return Ocean Mist Villa – secluded Middleton Beach and the Australia’s South West tourism from Sydney to Perth – don’t between Middleton Beach bunch ride’s local, it offers for arranging an incredible trip forget the three-hour time and Emu Point – offers a excellent coffee and food with introducing us to Albany, and the difference! The trip back is 1hr three-bedroom home with plenty of local produce. Albany City Council for some less thanks to the jetstream at kitchen, dining, laundry Kate’s Place – A historic forward-thinking, showcasing our backs. Our bikes in bags facilities and plenty of room to shopfront on Stirling their surrounds with the with kits were still under the park the bikes – and don’t Terrace right in town pocket-friendly 10 Great Rides 23kg included baggage, but it forget the spa to rest those overlooking the harbour guide and their excellent could be wise to order extra. tired legs. The Beach House at with an interesting menu – network of bike paths. Stay There are connecting flights Bayside, just across the road especially the desserts. tuned for more of their cycling from Perth to Albany, but to from Ocean Mist Villa, is for Emu Point Cafe – A perfect initiatives and events. Thanks really see the region we hired a those seeking a more little spot on the mouth of also to Albany Cycle Club van, perfect for all our bikes luxurious hotel experience. Oyster Harbour for fish and – including Carl Beck and Stuart and gear, from Budget Rent a You won’t need the kitchen chips and a milkshake. Passmore – a highly involved Car. We recommend driving facilities once you see their Hybla – Opposite the beach, club with incredible participation Top right: Standing in the footprints down via Margaret River or incredible breakfast buffet. showcasing more than just numbers and advocacy. Finally, of Padre White Busselton and the South Coast sun and sand with plenty of thanks to Mount Romance Here: We finally make Highway for the scenery and FOOD & DRINK local craft beers, wines and Sandlewood for their post-ride it up Mount Adelaide options to break up the 6-7hr We managed to find a coffee meat, it even has bike racks skin-care, highly right on time for a drive, but quickest is direct via shop at every point on our ride. out the front and a piano recommended when riding golden sunset Albany Highway in 4-5hrs. Our favourites included: man inside. exposed to Albany’s elements.

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