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Alaska Highlights ALASKA HIGHLIGHTS JUNE 15 –27, 2017 Bluethroat, near Nome, Alaska, June 18, 2017, photo by Barry Zimmer LEADER: BARRY ZIMMER LIST COMPILED BY: BARRY ZIMMER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ALASKA HIGHLIGHTS JUNE 15 –27, 2017 By Barry Zimmer “Oh my God, there’s a Gyrfalcon right next to the road being chased by Long-tailed Jaegers!” I yelled, as I brought the van to a quick halt. There aren’t many places around where one can utter those words, but such are the possibilities in Nome, Alaska. Nome is one of my favorite birding places on the planet, and all of the reasons why were on display on this year’s Alaska Highlights tour. Three roads radiate out from Nome, and we had a full day to cover each one. We started with the Teller Road, running northwesterly and inland through expansive, rolling tundra domes. The Gyrfalcon incident was incredible, as the pair of Long-tailed Jaegers bombarded it for nearly five minutes close by and in circles around our van. But that was just one of many highlights on this road. A massive bull Musk Ox greeted our arrival at the base of the road, posing atop a small hill for incredible photographic opportunities. Next came a pair of Willow Ptarmigan with tiny chicks foraging on the shoulder. At a higher, drier tundra dome some thirty miles out, we encountered Red Knots, American and Pacific golden-plovers (in stunning breeding plumages), and a Northern Wheatear among others. Arctic Warblers sang from the willow thickets next to streams, distracting us from the American Dipper that was nesting under the bridge. A pair of Bar-tailed Godwits rested on a rocky island in the Sinuk River, and a cow moose with calves was spotted on a distant hillside. Further out, we saw a Golden Eagle soaring over the hills to the right of the road. We were pursuing it when the eagle flushed a male Rock Ptarmigan from the slopes. We immediately abandoned the eagle and tried to follow the ptarmigan. A female joined the male in flight, and we watched as they landed about a half-mile up ahead. They landed high upslope, but two of us circled around the birds and were able to herd them downhill to a rocky bank adjacent to the river. There we obtained superb scope studies of this uncommon species. A Rough- legged Hawk, a Merlin, and a few Hoary and many Common redpolls rounded out the highlights. The day on the Teller Road was magical indeed. Next up was the Council Road running east of Nome along the coast to Safety Lagoon before veering inland toward the tiny town of Council. Most amazing on this day was seeing a group of eight Red-necked Stints at one spot! But as with the Teller Road, there were many memorable moments. Five Eastern Yellow Wagtails at Hastings Creek, great studies of Aleutian Tern at the Nome River mouth, and a Northern Shrike hovering over the tundra were early highlights. At Safety Lagoon, we encountered Tundra Swan; all three scoters; Common Eider; King Eider (a fly-by flock of nine); Black Turnstone; Pacific, Red-throated (abundant), and Common loons; and most incredibly, a Short-tailed Shearwater resting on the water just thirty feet from shore. Further out, we were treated to Peregrine Falcon at a nest site, another Gyrfalcon with a baby also at a nest site, and a perched Golden Eagle sitting atop a tiny spruce. A post-dinner option Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Alaska Highlights, 2017 out this same road netted a rare Arctic Loon and found that the stint flock had grown to an unbelievable 14 individuals! The Kougarok Road was our final destination in Nome. This road runs almost due north along the Nome River. The incomparable Bluethroat was our primary target for the day. We made many stops in suitable habitat, tallying the likes of Golden-crowned and Fox sparrows, more Arctic Warblers, Gray-cheeked Thrush, and scads of redpolls, but no Bluethroat. Finally, our persistence paid off at about our eighth stop. First we had a semi-responsive, somewhat elusive individual that provided distant scope views but never seemed entirely satisfactory. Then a short distance down the road, a fabulous male posed atop a small willow, front on for all to see! Anything after that would be gravy. We were at Salmon Lake for a bathroom stop when Kathy spotted a Yellow-billed Loon out on the lake! This was a great rarity here, and we had lengthy scope studies. It would ultimately be voted the favorite bird of the tour (in a tie with the Gyrfalcon). It also gave us all five loons in one 36-hour stretch! Other highlights included a lovely pair of Harlequin Ducks along the Grand Central River, a pair of Wandering Tattlers, three more baby Gyrfalcons at a nest, and a huge herd of 48 Musk Ox with babies. Although we missed the Bristle-thighed Curlew later in the afternoon, our day was a huge success. Of course, the Alaska Highlights tour is about much more than just Nome. In the Denali region we tallied Trumpeter Swans, American Three-toed and Black-backed woodpeckers, Short-eared Owl, Boreal Chickadee, and White-winged Crossbill (literally one foot away). We saw Mount McKinley (Denali) in full view both from the highway coming up and within the park on the shuttle ride (this happens on only about 10% of trips). On the mammal front, we had ten Grizzlies (including some cubs), many Caribou and Moose, and a few Dall’s Sheep. Finally we visited the Kenai Peninsula. An all-day boat trip into Kenai Fjords National Park yielded an incredible array of seabirds, including Horned and Tufted puffins by the hundreds, Common Murre, Parakeet and Rhinoceros auklets, Marbled and Ancient murrelets, Pigeon Guillemot, and Red-faced Cormorant among others. Many Humpback Whales were seen, including one individual that put on an amazing show of pectoral fin slapping and breaching. Dall’s Porpoises, Steller’s Sea Lions, Sea Otters, and unbelievable scenery rounded out the day. Back on land, our list included Barrow’s Goldeneye, Rufous Hummingbird, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, Steller’s Jay, Northwestern Crow, Varied Thrush, Townsend’s Warbler, and Pine Grosbeak to name a few. A wonderful experience with a very close Black Bear in a poplar near Girdwood was certainly one of the most memorable moments of the tour. In all we tallied over 150 species of birds, 19 species of mammals, countless species of wonderful tundra wildflowers, and scenery that simply must be seen to be believed. Oh, I forgot to mention the amazing dinners with king salmon, king crab, halibut, and delicious fruit pies. Alaska certainly lived up to its lofty reputation. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Alaska Highlights, 2017 ITINERARY: June 15 – arrival in Anchorage June 16 – Westchester Lagoon; flight to Nome; Teller Road to MP 34 (52 species; 52 total) June 17 – Teller Road to MP 57 (Bluestone River) in the morning & early afternoon; Council Road to MP 24 in late afternoon (57 species; 77 total) June 18 – Kougarok Road to MP 72 (52 species; 85 total) June 19 – Council Road to MP 74; late evening trip back to Safety Lagoon to MP 29 (74 species; 100 total) June 20 – morning flight from Nome to Anchorage; afternoon to Potter Marsh; post dinner trip to Westchester Lagoon (27 species; 106 total) June 21 – Anchorage to Denali with stops along Parks Highway (Sockeye Burn near Willow), Denali Highway to MP 125 (43 species; 123 total) June 22 – Denali National Park shuttle bus ride to Eielson Visitor Center; evening excursion on Denali Highway to MP 120 (26 species; 125 total) June 23 – Denali Highway to MP 101.5, Parks Highway to Anchorage with stop at the Sockeye Burn (35 species; 127 total) June 24 – Anchorage to Seward with stops at Girdwood, Granite Creek, Summit Lake, Trail River Campground, Bear Creek, and Ava’s house off Nash Road; post dinner trip to Lowell Point Road (52 species; 142 total) June 25 – all day boat trip from Resurrection Bay to Kenai Fjords National Park & the Chiswell Islands (22 species; 151 total) June 26 – Nash Woods, Nash Road, Primrose Campground, Trail River Campground, Granite Creek campground, Girdwood, Upper & Lower Summit Lakes, Potter Marsh, Kincaid Park (44 species; 153 total) June 26 – departures home or on to Barrow extension (153 total species) KEY: N = Nome and surrounding Seward Peninsula A = Anchorage and surrounding areas (Potter Marsh, Turnagain Arm, Girdwood, Williwaw, etc.) Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Alaska Highlights, 2017 S = Seward, Kenai Fjords, Summit Lakes, Granite Creek (Kenai Peninsula) D = Denali National Park, Denali Hwy, and Parks Hwy north of Wasilla bold-faced species indicate birds of rare, casual or accidental occurrence underlined species indicate birds of very uncommon occurrence or species which occur regularly but in such low densities as to be easily missed # - indicates birds seen with babies or on nests BIRDS: Brant N---the western race nigricans (a possible future resplit) Cackling Goose N---although very difficult to separate from parvipes type Canadas, all “white-faced” geese on the Seward Peninsula are of the large Cackling Goose group taverneri Canada Goose A---presumed to be of the small “Lesser Canada Goose” group parvipes ; # Trumpeter Swan D,S---a good year for this species with 18 seen, including one pair with half grown young; # Tundra Swan N---up to 200 in one day Gadwall A---one male at Westchester on two occasions Eurasian Wigeon N---nice male at Safety Lagoon American Wigeon N,A Mallard A,N,D,S---# Northern Shoveler A---four at Westchester the first morning were, surprisingly, our only one of the trip Northern Pintail N,A,D---#
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