JULY 2013 / ISSUE 30 watchpro.com

WatchNEWS, TRENDS AND MARKET INTELLIGENCE FOR THE BRITISHPro INDUSTRY

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URWERK A MOVEMENT THAT ANYONE CAN CONTROL P54 SITTING PRETTY THE LINK EFFECT JAEGER-LE COULTRE’S DEFINITIVE EXAMPLE OF TAKING CHAINS WHY DIAMONDS SHOULD FROM RUNWAYS NEVER BE APPLIED IN HALF MEASURES ONTO THE WRIST p47 P48 DEPTH COMMENT ROBERT LOOMES ON THE CHARGE BRITISH COMEBACK P14 FACTS & FIGURES Diving : As more consumers take the plunge, UK WATCH SALES UP 9% LED we report on how brands are battling it out to go deeper. BY FASHION BRANDS P12 MARKET REPORT / DIVING WATCHES DIVE TIME

NAME A KEY WATCH BRAND AND CHANCESKATE ARE ITDOHERTY HAS A HERO DIVING WATCH IN ITS PRODUCT LINE UP.OF DIVING WATCHES, WHICH IS EXPLORES THE ONGOING EVOLUTION PARTING THE WAVES FOR NEW ICONS OF THE GENRE

he world is getting the environment their watches smaller, travel more pro- are suitable for and arguably, lifi c and people’s sense rather than diluting the popular of adventure shows no watch genre the ongoing devel- sign of waning. Diving opments are merely strengthen- isT increasingly popular and it’s ing and broadening its appeal. not just the professionals and Statistics from global extremists donning the scuba organisation PADI revealed the num- gear and discovering the won- ber of certifi cations for entry level ders beneath the surfaces of the and continuing education diving world’s oceans. That said, divers’ awarded in 2012 was 945,107, which watches are not the timepiece was 14,1666 up on the 930,941 cer- of choice for diving enthusiasts tifi cations given in 2011. Meanwhile only, their aesthetics and capa- although there was a slight drop bilities appeal to people with no in the number of individual PADI desire to take the plunge. Rec- members by 0.2%, comparing ognising the demand for these 2012 to 2011, individual member- watches that boast durability, ship has predominantly witnessed cool style and functionality be- steady year-on-year growth and is yond timekeeping, brands are up 66.9% to 135,710 on 1996, when diversifying their diving watch membership was 91,321. Retail and offer, with some offering more resort PADI membership also re- serious diving credentials than mains strong, reaching 6,191, which others. However, for safety and is a 2.1% growth on 6,063 in 2011 honest trading’s sake watch and 53.4% overall growth compared brands are being upfront about to 1996.

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While the popularity of diving hero pieces.” seems to be rising, so too is the Oris is one of a number of key STYLE AND SUBSTANCE demand for robust diving watches, brands, well known to the consumer, Diving watches have been a key which are primarily essential safety with a lengthy history of divers’ feature among divers’ equipment tools leaving no room for compro- watches that started with the for more than eight decades and mise when it comes to accuracy, du- Meistertaucher and has culminated among the icons that have emerged rability and reliability. Consequently, most recently in the Baselworld 2013 are the Submariner, Omega all water resistant wristwatches must release of the Aquis , a Seamaster and the Fifty conform to ISO 2281 standards, timepiece that is both stylish Fathoms, which was revived and while to have the word ‘divers’ writ- and practical. celebrated at this year’s BaselWorld ten on the dial or case back, a watch “At Oris our design principle is very with the creation of a new Blancpain must also conform to ISO 6425. The simple: ‘form follows function’ and Fifty Fathoms model to latter comprises numerous require- we design all of our watches with mark its 60th anniversary. ments, which includes the watch be- this in mind,” says Hilbich. These heritage models and more ing water resistant to a minimum of 100m, being readable at a distance Previous page of 25cm even in complete darkness, Deep Blue Watches being shock resistant and having a recognises the need strap that meets minimum robust- to diversify in the ness standards. use of materials. “As the popularity grows so will 1 the two different strands of the mar- Deep Blue Watches ket, the more design-led market and is one of the brands the more professional functional striving to tcreate strand of the market,” says Ralf Hil- watches that can go bich, product development manager to new depths. at Oris. “All divers’ watches have to 2 meet a specifi c regulation to fall ’s long div- into the bracket of a diver’s watch ing watch history but, like with all products nowadays, includes equipping brands will push and push to have the Italian Navy the watch that can withstand the 2 Seals with watches most depth or as

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standard black.” Although Rolex is credited with creating the fi rst “waterproof” watch in 1927, the Omega Marine watch created in 1932 was considered to be the fi rst dive watch. The 1930s also saw Panerai present a number of divers’ watches for the Italian Navy Seals before the 1953 Fifty Fathoms from Blancpain came onto the mar- ket and Rolex’s Submariner in 1954. The ‘50s saw the genre truly gain momentum, beyond military use, with the discovery of the freedom 3 5 offered by using cylinders in under- water diving. Brands including IWC and Omega were among those mak- ing signifi cant advances, followed by in the mid 1960s. By the 1970s, some divers’ watches were able to mance and reliability.” accompany their wearer to a depth Although evolution of the genre of approximately 600m, with others has enhanced the effi ciency of div- certifi ed to deeper than 1,000m. ing watches, certain features have “Water resistance became a bat- remained consistent throughout the tleground of competition as dives years, including the unidirectional 3 reached new depths ,” says Stan bezel for measuring elapsed time Panerai’s new diving watch was at SIHH “Water resistance became a battleground of 2013. competition as dives reached new depths and today we 4 are seeing new materials and components being used.” Product develop- ment is ongoing at 4 Seiko. Betesh at Deep Blue Watches. “Today and the resulting amount of we are seeing an increase in new ma- used, telling when they 5 terials and components being used need to surface. Luminosity is a key recent manifestations have not on dive watches such as ceramic or Meanwhile, cases are fashioned consideration for gained popularity merely because bezels, adjustable from -resistant Ulysse Nardin. of their diving functionality and the extensions on bracelets, not to material such as , stainless unidirectional bezel that indicates mention the increase use of lumi- steel or ceramic and for the strap, 6 when to begin their ascent but, like nous properties.” which must withstand substantial Oris is known to most watches, because of the design Although to be a diver’s watch a , materials used tend to be customers for its elements too and the message im- timepiece must have a water resist- titanium, or rubber. diving watches. plied – adventure and risk taking. ence to a minimum of 100m, these “Divers’ watches have developed days diving watches tend to have a from purely practical instruments water resistence of between 200m to something that can be worn in and 300m, with some offering far and out of the water,” says Kirsten greater resistance – depths that Crisford, UK marketing manager for will never be experienced by most Seiko. “The chunky looks that epito- people. mised divers watches have become “Equating a dive watch that has appealing to those that don’t dive but true water resistance over 200m like good watches. There is far more ensures a quality timepiece that will choice in the colours and materials perform,” says Betesh. “Retailers want too, now, with bright and varied brands that will give their customers 6 colours available not just the the best value as well as perfor-

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compass and alarm systems. Other brands are developing prod- Q&A WITH DIVER SCOTT CASSELL ucts too, for instance, Citizen’s profes- sional dive watch has an electronic UNDERWATER EXPLORER SCOTT CASSELL EXPLAINS WHYY WEARING THE RIGRIGHTHT depth sensor – a world fi rst, while, WATCH IS ESSENTIAL FOR SAFETY AND PRECISION released in 2010, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Deepsea was Undersea explorer and expert counter-terrorism operative Scotttt created to be water resistant to an Cassell works closely with Luminox, which supplies watches extreme depth of 3,900m. to the US Navy Seals. Luminox has backed Cassell with the Although practicality is at the heart launch of the 1525 Deep Dive Special Scott Cassell and the of divers’ watches, aesthetics also 3954 Colormark Special Scott Cassell timepieces, with a portion of the proceeds from sales going towards supporting play an important role. Cassell’s organisations, Sea Wolves and Underwater Voyager At Seiko, product development Project (UVP). For Cassell, who needs the right equipment to supportupport addresses looks and functionality in his underwater expeditions, working with the right watch brandnd was non- non- equal measure. “We treat the practi- negotiable. cal requirements of a divers’ watch with equal as the aesthetic WatchPro: Have watches always been an integral part of diving apparatus and why? requirements of any watch,” explains Scott Cassell: Diving is an art of time. To avoid running out of gas at depth and to Crisford. “We think about the watch manage safe and to make certain a high area is safe - time is life. being worn in and out of the sea and what that consumers would want.” WP: What makes a decent diving watch? Grand Seiko recently launched the SC: A dive watch used by professionals must be tough and clear. What I mean by that is it has Spring Drive Diver’s 200m with its to survive the stresses of a dive that is not recreational. Luminox is the only watch that that is always visible and when combined with its inherent toughness truly is essential gear to my one-way rotating bezel and screw work. crown, while Seiko introduced the Sportura Kinetic Divers Watch. WP: Are there any modern developments that you are excited by? Citizen is also looking to diversify SC: The 25-year glow with no external energy is my hands-down favourite but I must say its dive watch offer and use new seeing UVP and my Sea Wolves Unlimited logos on the watch faces is a close second – that’s technologies. “When thinking about just me appreciating the courageous support of Luminox to the oceans and my work. product design, it’s all about the design combined with functionality,” WP: Do you think amateur and pro divers look for different functions in their watches? says Mark Robinson, MD at Citizen SC: Not really. I have noticed most recreational divers look to those that make their living in the sea for guidance and –often – correctly so. It seems to me that lately nearly everyone wants to look like a Combat Diver by wearing mostly black or camo dive gear. Why not? Imitation is the finest form of flattery.

WP: How important are looks for a diver’s watch? SC: To me, the reliability, toughness and ease of reading a bright clear face are what makes a watch great. Looks are not important to me. I am not fashionable in any sense - just ask my fiancé Kerry. Having said that, I’m blessed that the Luminox watches are so beautiful and it often sends a message that I may actually have some fashion sense. But to dispel any misconceptions, I don’t.

Additionally divers’ watches need has a screwed crown and is water to be readable in dark conditions so resistant to 200m. luminosity is essential. Innovation is taking other direc- 7 Take, for example, Ulysse Nardin’s tions for some brands. At Linde Seiko gives equal newest Maxi Marine Diver, which Werdelin, innovation is at the heart weight to looks and carries on the family’s use of large of its diving watches. Rather than personality. diving scale fi gures in gold on the having the rotating bezel, its watches dark rotating bezel. The contrast and capture information via digital in- 8 visibility is emphasised further by strument The , which fi ts over Oris recently re- a wave-patterned black dial, which the watch, and uses a number of leased the Aquis supports applied luminous indexes sensors, a low-power multi MPU 7 Depth Gauge. to striking contrast. The watch also platform, an advanced three axis

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UK. “Today, colour is very important approval has now been granted to both in terms of accents and bold use higher capacity tritium on the elements. This is true for both gents’ dial. Ball watches also uses tritium and ladies’ dive watches.” gas in glass microtubes for its divers’ Citizen’s dive offer is evolving and watches. this autumn the brand will launch While looks can be important to the Promaster Depth Meter Chrono- help the watch achieve commercial graph, powered by Citizen’s Eco-Dive success and appeal to non-divers, technology whereby the watch is most brands insist that functionality fuelled by light. A solar cell beneath comes fi rst. “In our opinion [priorities the dial converts the light into en- including] ease of reading the dial ergy to power the watch. Regular in different conditions and reliability 8 exposure to light means the watch should always be borne in mind,” will continually recharge itself. The says Andrea Maggi brand manager lithium-ion rechargeable cell stores at Squale. “These features should enough energy to power the watch never be neglected in the design of up to seven years – depending on a diving watch, which must remain the mode – even in the dark. functional for diving when At Deep Blue Watches, Betesh attempting to capture a broader says that for them an exciting range of clientele. development has been the use of “Sometimes we are amazed by the gaseous self-contained tritium certain watches, which are supposed tubes that are said to glow for 25 to be for diving and yet they have years without an outside power dials or functions that have nothing source. He explains that in the UK to do with the sector.”

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REAL DEAL To ensure the watches remain suit- LESS PLUNGE, MORE SPLASH able for use in a professional div- 9 Just as strapping on the equipment and diving to extreme depths ing environment, brands maintain isn’t for everyone, creating a model that can function at these ongoing communications with depths isn’t the remit of every watch brand. Those that don’t divers. For instance, Squale is produce technical dive watches recognise the appeal of water in contact with professional resistent pieces and are creating models with their own quirky take scuba divers such as coral on the genre. At BaselWorld 2013, Nomos Glashütte introduced fi shermen and underwater its Ahoi model that does exactly that. “Nomos’ Ahoi can be taken station workers, while also as an interpretation of a diver’s watch. It was not developed to fit working with Michele Fu- this category,” says Christiane von Trotha, head of public relations for Nomos Glashütte. “Our aim was to develop a watch for active carino, a record holder for free people who might be involved in an array of water sports. In our diving distance. development we took the technical specs of diving watches as our At Oris too, knowledge shar- benchmark and Ahoi meets all of them, the only element we are ing with professionals is a must. missing is the rotating bezel. The watch is water resistant down Hilbich says: “We have several div- to 20 bars, or 200m, features superluminova indices and has an ing ambassadors who provide us innovative fabric strap, which is waterproof and will not come with a wealth of knowledge and undone when you jump into the water.” experience from their daily lives. This gives us a wealth of informa- tion that we need to ensure we give which golf or Formula One might, them what they really need. The last so despite being a key sales area, thing we want to do is make a great divers’ watches don’t have a natural looking diver’s watch that doesn’t affi nity with ambassadorships,” he do the job.” says. “Specifi cation and technical For retailers, these brand associa- aspects tend to do the talking and tions with experts can help with ordinarily the diver’s watch cus- sales. “The history of the brand and tomer arrives well informed and the the ambassadors give the buyer point of sale is about price.” confi dence when spending what Of course, not everyone who can be many thousands of pounds,” buys a diver’s watch dives. Consum- says Peter Jackson, managing direc- ers’ choice of watch makes a subtle tor of Peter Jackson the Jeweller. statement and it’s no difference However, for Tom Milner, co- when it comes to divers’ watches. owner of retailer Tustains, diving The watch’s looks and functionality watches do not have such a natural tend to imply a spirit of adventure. affi liation with ambassadors as “We only stock one brand of other sports watches. “Interestingly, wristwatch who produce a special- water sports don’t generally provide ised diving watch, which is Rolex the resource of household names with the Submariner, Submariner Date and Deep Sea,” says Karl Massey, managing director the fi rst true specialist diving watch 10 of Prestons of Bolton. it has the pedigree and credibility “All are extremely consumers look for.” desirable and our Although some customers will problem tends buy for style over function, divers’ to be having the watches will always have a role to available stock to play in a professional activity and meet the demand from trade. Watches that associate them- 9 customers. selves with a sport that requires Citizen’s dive off er “I would suggest that specialist training, dedication, skill continues to evolve. divers’ watches are popu- and an element of risk taking must lar due to their styling have a functionality and level of 10 rather than simply their precision that makes them worthy Luminox works functionality and with the of the genre, however, that’s not to with professional being say they can’t look good doing it. divers.

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