Through HISTORIC a Walk

A walk through HISTORIC Villach VILLACH TOURIST BOARD Bahnhofstraße 3 | 9500 Villach | Austria +43/ (0)4242 / 205 2900 [email protected] www.visitvillach.at

Editor and liable for the content: Villach tourist board

Graphic design and concept: Daniel Derler Design Text: Evi Rupperti

Photo: Archiv Region Villach Tourismus GmbH/ Adrian Hipp, Michael Stabentheiner Stadt Villach, Museum der Stadt Villach „LIK Akademie für Foto und Design“, Infrastil Map: Schubert und Franzke Printing: PAUL GERIN GmbH & Co. KG, Villach CITYTOUR VILLACH

Use the free WI-FI network „WiVi“ and go on the CITY TOUR Villach with your smartphone! Discover historically and culturally sinifcant laces in the old town. Information boards with QR codes oer ecitin and entertainin videos about our city.

Villach main square, ca. 1912

Villach: Modern and historical

Charming Villach is Carinthia’s second-largest city at 60,000 inhabitants. It is a lively city, dynamic and modern – yet steeped in history. The Romans established the important way station of “Santicum” in this convenient location on an established travelling route next to a bridge. They also appreciated the thermal springs of nearby Warmbad.

The f rst documented reference to Villach is from 878 as “pons Uillah”, and in 979, a royal court of “Fillac” is mentioned. In 1007, Emperor Henry II granted Villach to the Archbishopric of Bamberg in central Germany. It was not until 1759 that Empress Maria Theresa bought back the city with all its estates, which reached as far as Pontebba in modern-day Italy. CITY TOUR VILLACH MULTIMEDIA CITY TOUR In 1060, Villach became a market town. Another Experience the history of Villach with impressive milestone in its history was 1240, when it was short flms. Hear little anecdotes and learn about historical backgrounds. f rst mentioned as a city. © Copyright by Schubert & Franzke, St. Pölten

Pestalozzistraße

Hausergasse 27 Ing.-Julius- We’re glad you are here - Raab-Platz welcome to Villach! GUIDE TO HISTORIC VILLACH Robert-Stolz-Straße 28

The old town of Villach is the versatile heart CITYTOUR 10. Oktober- Str. of our region in southern Austria, at the Peraustraße

Hausergasse intersection of three cultures, namely the 7

Germanic, Slavic and Romanesque. Litzelhofenstraße

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e Gerbergasse v e P n 25 e h r ü a Draulände u l s le t r r g . a s 10. Oktober-Str. This brochure gives you a vivid insight into the s e Moritschstraße 6

e history and culture of our incomparable city on s s a Standes- DRAU g Freihausgasse n amts- e 8. Mai- Italiener Straße g platz 24 n the river Drava/Drau. i Platz Postgasse n i 26 e

Fußgehersteg 5 Here are three ways to discover Villach: 22 Fuggerg. Seenußhof se sgas Rathaus- Freihau platz

L e 21 i n i 8 3 n Europa- g 1. Visit one of our interesting and guided city Freihaus- e Kirchen- platz n g Drauterrassen Dietri . platz platz Hans-Gasser- chsteingg. Ankershofeng. . 10

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Köllpass. Köllpass. Köllpass. s Platz 11 s c h Apollo- a a tours! The charming guides will tell you Nikolaigasse g n 3 z platz Weißbriachgasse n g n a . m Hauptplatz Kaiser-Heinrich-G. id the most exciting stories about Villach. 4 9 9 W Our „special“ from May to October: Every Gerbergasse 8 12 4 5 Hauptplatz Seilergasse guided tour is free with the Erlebnis CARD. Rathausgasse7 2 Paracelsusgasse 2 Karlgasse 6 13 Just ask your host about it! Stadtbrücke 1 2. Use the free WI-FI network „WiVi“ and 20 19

Leitegasse ße Drauparkstraße Ringmauergasse go on the CITY TOUR Villach with your tra ofs nh ah B Lederergasse Kaiser-Josef-Platz smartphone! Information boards with QR 18 Leitegasse Nikolai- D platz r codes ofer you exciting and entertaining a Klagenfurter Straße u l ä 14 n d Bamberger Gasse e videos about our city on the river. Kaigasse 10 se as ng an idm 3. Use this folder while walking through the D Bahnhofstraße W r Kunigundeng. a u p r o old town and experience Villach on your m 15 e n a d own! e 1 11 Udo-Jürgens- Platz Enjoy interesting and Zeidler-von-Görz-Straße Burg- Dr platz Bahnhofstraße DRAU au län de 16 Ringmauergasse exciting hours in Villach - Bahnhof- D platz ra u p ro m in the heart of Carinthia! e n a d e

Willroiderstraße © Copyright by Schubert & Franzke, St. Pölten

Pestalozzistraße

Hausergasse 27 Ing.-Julius- We’re glad you are here - Raab-Platz welcome to Villach! GUIDE TO HISTORIC VILLACH Robert-Stolz-Straße 28

The old town of Villach is the versatile heart CITYTOUR 10. Oktober- Str. of our region in southern Austria, at the Peraustraße

Hausergasse intersection of three cultures, namely the 7

Germanic, Slavic and Romanesque. Litzelhofenstraße

K K K

h h h

e Gerbergasse v e P n 25 e h r ü a Draulände u l s le t r r g . a s 10. Oktober-Str. This brochure gives you a vivid insight into the s e Moritschstraße 6

e history and culture of our incomparable city on s s a Standes- DRAU g Freihausgasse n amts- e 8. Mai- Italiener Straße g platz 24 n the river Drava/Drau. i Platz Postgasse n i 26 e

Fußgehersteg 5 Here are three ways to discover Villach: 22 Fuggerg. Seenußhof se sgas Rathaus- Freihau platz

L e 21 i n i 8 3 n Europa- g 1. Visit one of our interesting and guided city Freihaus- e Kirchen- platz n g Drauterrassen Dietri . platz platz Hans-Gasser- chsteingg. Ankershofeng. . 10

e S

Willroiderstraße Pilgrimage church „Zum Heiligen Kreuz“ Museum courtyard

Aftermath of WW II / Reconstruction

Villach ﬂ ourished in the 700 years of Bamberg Napoleon and his regiment held the city from reign. However, earthquakes, f res and 1809 to 1813, and during World War I, Villach epidemics left their mark on the city. The most became a command centre and front-line city at devastating disaster was the great earthquake the Italian border. of 1348, which caused part of the southern face of mount Dobratsch to break of and started In World War II, Villach was bombed heavily by enormous f res that raged through the city, the Allies due to its strategic importance as a leaving large parts of it in ashes. However, railway hub. 52 air raids destroyed not only the despite further earthquakes, f res and even an railway station and tracks but also the majority outbreak of the plague, Villach rose from the of civilian buildings in the city. Many buildings in ashes time and again. the historic city centre were damaged as well, and the consequences of this destruction for The 15th and 16th centuries brought an eco- the townscape are visible to this day. nomic upturn thanks to free trade with Venice and a ﬂ ourishing trade in lead and iron. In this Discover Villach’s history favourable economic climate, science and art thrived. Today, Villach is a vibrant and modern city of culture, high tech and shopping opportunities, During the Reformation, Villach became the of ering relaxation and leisure activities in a centre of Protestantism in Carinthia around charming Mediterranean atmosphere. 1526. When the Counterreformation came, many Protestants were driven from the city, The historic city centre with its slightly sloping taking their assets with them. As a result, the main square and old narrow streets is the heart city’s economy took a hard hit. of a modern city on which great historical f gures View from the parish church Street art festival The former tollgate such as the Khevenhüller dynasty, Thomas of Italian atmosphere on Hauptplatz Villach and Paracelsus have left their marks – some with monumental buildings, others with Since the mid-12th century, the main square hidden gems and monuments that are waiting has been the beating heart of the city, used for to be discovered. markets and fairs. The impact of World War II can still be seen in the post-War buildings that Eager to discover Villach’s hidden were constructed in the gaps the falling bombs treasures? left in the historical building stock. In 1988, Hauptplatz was pedestrianised, improving the Let this folder guide you on a walk through the quality of life markedly. When the pleasant history of Villach. terraces of the cafés f ll up on sunny days and the city is vibrating with energy, you might think Contact us for more information: you are in Italy. Villach Tourist Board Bahnhofstraße 3, 9500 Villach +43/ (0)4242 / 205 2900 1 Start of the tour: House no. 1: Today [email protected] the hotel “Goldenes Lamm”, this used to be the www.region-villach.at location of the provincial tollgate. Here, at the lower city gate, people would pay their toll to cross the River Drau. Enjoy discovering all the historical treasures our city has to offer! Hauptplatz no. 7 House no.13: “Neumannhaus” Paracelsus relief / Paracelsushof

2 House no.7: The magnif cent “Grottenegg- 5 House no.13: The terracotta-coloured haus” with its single Gothic blind window “Neumannhaus” at number 13 was built preserved on the second the ﬂ oor above the as the townhouse of Anna Neumann von newer arched windows was originally built in Wasserleonburg (1535-1623). A double-headed the 14th to 15th century. Over the centuries, eagle carved in stone has endured the centuries it was home to wealthy patrician families and in the courtyard. Because of this royal symbol, even the Counts della Grotta before being used it was long mistakenly believed that Emperor as a toll, customs and tax oﬃ ce by the Imperial Charles V stayed here in 1552 as well (see house administration. no. 26).

3 An ershofgasse: This narrow alley starts 6 House no.18: Across the square next to next tok house no. 9. A characteristic feature of Seilergasse, a memorial plaque marks the the narrow side streets leading of Hauptplatz entrance to a carefully restored Renaissance are the arches between the houses, designed courtyard. Here, the famous physician, alche- to provide support during earthquakes. At the mist and philosopher Paracelsus – born Theo- entrance to the alley, you can see a heraldic sto- phrastus von Hohenheim – spent his childhood ne, placed there in 1589 by an apothecary na- and youth. Two marble relief medallions on the med Gregor Höll. eastern side of the courtyard depict Paracelsus and his father Wilhelm von Hohenheim. 4 House no.11: Another stone witness of the past can be found in this house. In the 7 House no.22: Hidden behind the austere entrance hall, a Dr. Hedenegg, who renovated façade of this post-War building is Hirschegger- this building, placed a memorial stone in 1579. hof, a beautiful courtyard with Tuscan columns. Trinity Column

North Portal

Parkhotel Hotel Post Sculpture on the nave Parish church and Trinity Column

8 Trinity Column: This magnif cent monu- Between 1748 and 1875 the house was used as ment built to invoke divine protection for the a post oﬃ ce and a tavern. Today it houses the city located in the upper third of the slightly „Romantic Hotel Post“. Its beautiful renaissance sloping main square dates back to 1739. Later, oriel shows the coat of arms of the Widmann- statues of the Virgin Mary, Saint Florian, patron Ortenburg and the Khevenhüller-Welzer saint of f ref ghters, and Saint Roch, protector families. The interior boasts Gothic vaults and against the plague, were added in memory of columns. the plague. Landmark and view: 9 House no.26: The chronicles of this The parish church of St. Jacob magnif cent residence of the Khevenhüller family recorded a famous visitor in 1552: 10 St. Jacob’s Church is the city’s most Emperor Charles V, ﬂ eeing from Maurice of important architectural monument and also Saxony, stayed here for seven weeks. Between its emblem. The f rst documented church in 1748 and 1875, the building was used as post this location was a Roman basilica mentioned house and coaching inn. Today, it is a hotel with in 1136, which was destroyed in an earthquake a beautiful courtyard and an interior with Gothic in the 14th century. Reconstruction of the vaults. The highlight of the impressive façade is chancel began in 1360, followed by the nave, a Renaissance bay window bearing the coats which was built in the Gothic style. In 1526, of arms of the former owners, the Widmann- St. Jacob’s became Carinthia’s f rst Protestant Ortenburg and Khevenhüller families. Memorial plaque on the city wall

Old city wall

church, only to become Catholic again in 1594. Inside the church with its decorative rib vault In the museum’s garden City Museum ceiling, you can discover works of art such as the Renaissance pulpit that dates back to when “Salzgasse” (salt lane) and Leiten (“slope”) tell us it was a Protestant church, the high altar built in about its dif erent uses and describe its incline the rococo style, the burial chapel and funerary down to the river. In 1879, it was named after monuments of the Khevenhüllers, and a late the Widmann family, respected patricians and Gothic fresco of Saint Christopher. merchants of Villach. The bell tower was destroyed in an earthquake in 1690. It was rebuilt, but not completed until 1847. Like the Italian campanile, it was originally A detour to the city wall a free-standing bell tower. Only later was it At the upper end of Widmanngasse lies Hans- connected to the church proper. Gasser-Platz, with a statue of the Austrian If you climb the 240 steps to the top of Carinthia’s sculptor Hans Gasser surrounded by beautiful highest tower (94m), you will be rewarded with houses built around the turn of the 19th to the a magnif cent view of the picturesque historic 20th century. city centre of Villach. Set back from the square, on its northern side, you can see a piece of history: the only The old mar et centre: Widmanngasse remaining part of the old city walls with an k enormous bastion tower. The recent redesign 11 On the western side of Oberer Kirchplatz of the square draws the eye to it. The old curtain next to the church is the start of Widmanngasse. wall, f rst mentioned in 1233, was damaged in This street is among the oldest in Villach. It the great earthquake of 1348. Although it was was the site of the f rst markets, and indeed partially rebuilt, it was later nearly completely its old names “Rindermarkt” (cattle market), demolished during the French occupation of the city. „Eschey-Hof“ Exhibition room at the castle

Cross the modern footbridge and step through the gate in the wall. Behind a fence, you will see The castle–at its core Villach’s oldest building a memorial plaque and anti-aircraft projectiles from World War II – exhibits of the City Museum. Turn right into narrow Schanzgasse to get back 15 The music school is a to Widmanngasse. House no.10: harmonious marriage of the old and the new: This historical patrician house, which belonged 12 House no.38: The City Museum. If you to the city’s f rst mayor in the 16th century, was are interested in Villach’s history, you should extended in 2008 with a modern annex. You will make time for an extensive tour. The building have the best view of it from Kunigundengasse, itself is of interest as well: The interior dates which turns west just past the school. Follow it back to the 16th century, and in its Renaissance to our next stop, the Villach castle. courtyard you can see the city’s medieval pillory. The museum’s fascinating collection spans the A stroll along the River Drau and time from the Neolithic to the city’s Roman his- to the northern bank tory, the Middle Ages and Paracelsus up to the 16 The castle, or “Burg”, was once the present. Castle: seat of the administrators of the Bamberg Arch- bishopric, which ruled over Villach for over 700 13 House no.30: The “Eschey-Hof” courtyard years. It was not until 1759 that Empress Maria with its columned arcades now houses a popular Theresa bought the estates back from them. Italian restaurant. The core of the castle makes it the city’s oldest building. During recent renovations on the 14 Mary’s Column: Watching over the lane castle and its Old Catholic chapel of Saint Henry from a patch of grass on the side is the baroque and Saint Cunigunde, precious historical f nds St. Mary’s Column, built in 1740. From here, were discovered, which you can view in an Widmanngasse slopes steeply downwards to exhibition room. the River Drau. Nikolaiplatz Bronze sculpture of a carnival jester

St. Nicholas Church and the town bridge 17 Lederergasse: Following the River Drau, we arrive at Lederergasse, the city’s oldest guild street (streets were named after the tradespeople who had their workshops there – 19 Town Bridge: A “pons Uillah” was f rst this one after tanners). A plaque on house no. mentioned in records in 878, giving Villach claim 12 at the f rst corner recalls the high-water mark to the oldest bridge in Carinthia. The tollboo- of the catastrophic ﬂ ood of September 1882. th on Hauptplatz collected a toll from anyone House no. 25, in turn, bears the high-water wishing to cross the bridge, providing the town marks of more recent ﬂ oods in 1965 and 1966. with a steady income until 1903. Until 1858, it The regulation of the River Drau in 1981 dimi- was a simple wooden bridge. The subsequently nished the risk and the river banks have beco- built picturesque arch bridge was replaced with me a popular place for leisure activities. the modern bridge you see today in 1960.

18 Kaiser-Josef-Platz: From Lederergas- 20 Ni olai irche (St. Ni olas Church): se with its inviting bars and cafés turn into Bam- On thek otherk side of the river,k Nikolaiplatz bergergasse and walk to Kaiser-Josef-Platz. This welcomes you with its charming cafés and charming little square is named after a statue bars, a model showing the city in 1649 and a of Emperor Joseph II from 1888. At Karlgasse sculpture of a carnival jester symbolising the 10 on the eastern corner of the square you can famous “Villacher Fasching”. A statue of Saint admire a remarkable late Gothic entrance hall Francis of Assisi is located in front of the neo- with a central column. Walk beneath the arches Gothic Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas Church) with a of Karlgasse back to Hauptplatz and turn north Franciscan monastery founded in 1629. towards the river. Rathausplatz – outside Town Hall

Congress Center Villach and boat landing

21 Congress Center Villach: : In Nikolai- gasse, the historical town gives way to moder- nity with the striking new Congress Hotel and Congress Center. The enormous red cube of Courtyard of the old Town Hall the Congress Center with its large conference hall hosts not only conferences but also cultural and social events: Carinthia’s largest and best- 23 Freihausplatz: Walking up from the known music festival, “Carinthian Summer”, is footbridge, we cross Gerbergasse (named, like held here every year, as are Villach’s legendary Lederergasse, after a tanners’ guild) and along carnival shows. Freihausgasse to Freihausplatz. Narrow alleys connect it to Hauptplatz.

Bac to the historical centre 24 k Town Hall: Where Khevenhüllergasse opens out into Freihausplatz next to the old 22 Pedestrian Bridge: Turn back to the elementary school, you will see the back of the river. The pedestrian bridge is a popular place Town Hall, which faces towards Hauptplatz. Af- for photographs, as it af ords a breath-taking ter the old Town Hall – the “Khevenhüller Stadt- view of the rose-coloured pilgrimage church palais” – was heavily damaged in World War II, “Zum Heiligen Kreuz” (built 1726-1738) against the new building was built in 1952. Only the im- the backdrop of the majestic Karawanken pressive 16th-century portal of the civil registry mountain chain. The church is one of Carinthia’s oﬃ ce remains to remind us of the building’s most beautiful baroque buildings. past splendour. If you would like to explore the region from the river, join the boat tours on the Drau which leave next to the bridge. Bronze couple in local costume

Parkhotel and St. Jacob’s Church Protestant Church

A short additional tour:

25 Par hotel: Walk along Freihausgasse to 27 If you would like to discover more of the the impressivek Parkhotel from 1911. It no longer city, turn south from 8.-Mai-Platz instead of serves as a hotel – during its renovation in going back to Hauptplatz. Follow 10.-Oktober- 1998, it was converted into oﬃ ces and function Straße, which is lined by impressive buildings rooms. When it was opened, the hotel’s café amid green gardens. The street opens out into with its beautiful old park quickly became a a beautiful park with a pretty Protestant Church, popular meeting place of Villach’s society – and built in the neo-Gothic style between 1901 and it remains so to this day. 1903.

26 Hauptplatz: Cross 8.-Mai-Platz with 28 As you walk back up 10.-Oktober-Straße, its bronze statue of a couple in traditional turn right at the Peraugymnasium school, past local costume. The statue was placed there impressive 19th and 20th century mansions in 2008 when the square was redesigned to Schillerpark. In the small park, you can to commemorate the centenary of the admire busts of famous poet Friedrich Schiller “Bauerngman”, the initiators of the Villacher and composer Thomas Koschat, who made Kirchtag fair which takes place every year at the Carinthian folk songs popular internationally. beginning of August. This takes us back to the The biggest attraction of Schillerpark, however, upper part of Hauptplatz, the start of our tour. is Europe’s largest indoor geographical plastic relief model – a stunning 3D model of Carinthia on a 1:10,000 scale. Theophrastus Bombastus v. Hohenheim, Who is who in Villach’s history better known as Paracelsus Bishopric Bamberg (1493-1541)

Emperor Henry II granted Villach to the Paracelsus made history as a famous physici- Bishopric Bamberg in Germany, who governed an, ground-breaking alchemist, innovator of the city for over seven centuries, from 1007 to medical science, father of balneology and reli- 1759. Their administrative centre was in the gious philosopher. When he was nine years old, city’s castle on the Drau. In 1535, Bamberg had he moved to Villach from Switzerland with his to place its estates, which reached all the way to father, a widower. Here, he attended the Latin Pontebba in Italy, under the sovereignty of the school. He learned much about the art of me- local ruler. It lost further rights in 1674. In 1759, dicine from his father Wilhelm, who worked as Empress Maria Theresa bought back Villach and a physician in Villach for 30 years, before travel- the attached estates for one million guilders for ling extensively. In the Paracelsushof courtyard the House of Habsburg. in Seilergasse you can see a memorial to Para- celsus and his father. Thomas of Villach (ca. 1445-1530) The Khevenhüllers CAmong experts, the late Gothic frescoes and panels of this artist from Villach, which are Few dynasties have left their stamp on Carinthia found across Carinthia, are highly valued. Some like the Khevenhüllers: They owned and of his most famous works can be admired in built castles and palaces, factories and town the Monastery of St. Paul in Lavanttal and in residences. Their most spectacular property the rural churches of Thörl and Gerlamoos. was Hochosterwitz, still considered the most He is considered one of the preeminent magnif cent castle in Carinthia. They moved representatives of the “Villacher Werkstätte” to Villach from Franconia in the 14th century. school of painting, which developed in Carinthia Although not originally of noble birth, they in the 15th century. The collection of the City served the Emperor and were soon ennobled. Museum also includes some of his panels. They were famous for their entrepreneurship and skilfully increased their fortune over the years. Christoph Baron of Khevenhüller granted Charles V refuge in his residence for seven weeks in 1552 when the latter was ﬂ eeing from Maurice of Saxony. The building still remains on Hauptplatz 26, now as the Romantik Hotel Post.

A walk through HISTORIC Villach VILLACH TOURIST BOARD Bahnhofstraße 3 | 9500 Villach | Austria +43/ (0)4242 / 205 2900 [email protected] www.visitvillach.at

Editor and liable for the content: Villach tourist board

Graphic design and concept: Daniel Derler Design Text: Evi Rupperti