NORTHERN ETHIOPIA Think It’Stimeyoudothesame? Adventure, Buildings Andenchantinglegends
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© Lonely Planet Publications 108 www.lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN ETHIOPIA •• Climate 109 0 100 km NORTHERN ETHIOPIA 0 60 miles Senafe Northern Ethiopia Adi Quala Badme E R I T R E A The international boundaries on this map serve as indications only. Om-hajer Yeha Debre Damo The Ethiopia–Eritrea border awaits formal UN demarcation. Humero Shire Enticcio Adigrat (Inda Selassie) S U D A N Battle Site Edaga Hamus Aksum Adwa Hawsien Sinkata Battle Site Hagere Salem Inda Negash Selassie Atsbi Dallol Abi Addi Wukro Berahile The bounty of northern Ethiopia’s historical African treasures is only rivalled by that of Agula Ras Dashen Adi Arkay Tigray Danakil Hamd Egypt’s. In Aksum, elaborate pre-Christian tombs underlie ancient obelisks; in Lalibela a medi- (4543m) Desert Ela Irta'ale NORTHERN ETHIOPIA Mekele D a n a k i l D e p r e s s i o n Debark (613m) eval maze of rock-hewn churches lies frozen in stone. The wealth of history continues in Gon der, Simien Mountains National Park River Lake where grand 17th-century castles overlook the celebrated source of the Blue Nile, Lake Tana. Afera The lake’s waters host centuries-old island monasteries and countless religious artefacts. Ὀ Maychew Gonder To Metema Sekota Northern Ethiopia’s landscape is equally captivating and is unparalleled in Africa in both (24km) Abune scale and beauty. Although the amazing backdrop of endless canyons, chasms, gorges and Yosef Gorgora Tekeze (4190m) Addis Zemen Lalibela high plateaus covers most of the north, there’s no better way to absorb it than trekking the Lake Mesket Tana Debre Escarpment Tabor Semera NORTHERN ETHIOPIA Simien Mountains. You’ll also be able to experience some of Ethiopia’s endemic wildlife. Woldia Logiya Filakit Dilb Bahir Dar Asaita Nature takes on hostile tones in the Danakil Depression, where harsh conditions make Tis Isat Gashema Mille Galafi Durbete Blue Nile Falls Lake Gamarri DJIBOUTI molten lava feel more at home than you. At over 100m below sea level it’s one of the low- (Tis Isat) Tenta C h o k e Maqdala Hayk Dangla Ajibara Lake Hayk Mota Abay est, hottest and most inhospitable places on Earth. Amba Farit Bati Lake Abbe River Dessie M o u (3975m) Kombolcha (Lac Abbé) Mt Choke (4100m) Depending on your mood and budget, getting around northern Ethiopia can be as easy as Bure n t a n s Yangudi-Rassa hopping a plane or as difficult as wedging your big toe into a precarious cliffside crevice. ὈὈNational Park Abuye Debre Meda Markos (4000m) Intrepid travellers have been returning from here for centuries with incredible tales of Gundo Meskel Mezezo Dejen Escarpment adventure, ancient civilisations, marvellous buildings and enchanting legends. Don’t you Blue Nile Guassa Plateau Muger Gorge Jemma think it’s time you do the same? Valley Fiche Debre Dire Dawa River Berhan Debre Sina Lake Debre Harar ὈὈRuins Chomen Muger River Libanos HIGHLIGHTS Gorge Ankober Shano Aliyu Amba Durba Question time, history and reality while Chancho Awash Nekemte Scenic Route wandering dumbfounded through the rock- ADDIS ABABA hewn maze of churches in Lalibela ( p155 ) Descend into the darkness of ancient Ak- Aksum Climate map. It’s home to rare endemics, like the sumite tombs or let your eyes follow 1800- The central and northern highlands are walia ibex and Ethiopian wolf, as well as year-old stelae skyward at Aksum ( p131 ) Tigray fairly mild with average daytime tempera- large populations of the intriguing gelada Exercise your eyes while trekking the tures of 18°C. The bulk of the rain falls baboon, and offers Ethiopia’s best trekking sublime Simien Mountains ( p125 ), home Simien between May and September, with July and and some of Africa’s most astounding panor- to magnificent wildlife and unparalleled Mountains August being the wettest. The region of Tig- amas from its 4000m plateaus and peaks. panoramas of endless Abyssinian abysses Gonder ray and parts of northeastern Amharaland Share Lake Tana ( p115 ) with patrolling are drier, only receiving significant rain in Getting There & Away pelicans and centuries-old island July and August. Ethiopian Airlines (www.flyethiopian.com) connects Lalibela monasteries Lake Tana The Danakil Depression, with elevations Addis Ababa with Bahir Dar, Gonder, Lali- cracking 116m below sea level, regularly bela, Aksum, Shire, Mekele and Dessie. Catch the sun’s last light kissing the surpasses 50°C. Most people who enter northern Ethi- abled remains of ‘Africa’s Camelot’ in opia overland are travelling by bus from Gonder ( p118 ) National Parks Addis Ababa, which sits conveniently at the Flirt with gravity and reach new heights at If northern Ethiopia was devoid of astound- bottom of the historical circuit. Although Abuna Yemata Guh ( p149 ), one of the rock-hewn churches of Tigray ing historical finds, Simien Mountains Na- possible, few people access the Addis tional Park would truly be on the world Ababa–Bahir Dar road from the western 110 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT •• Addis Ababa to the Blue Nile Gorge www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT •• North To Bahir Dar 111 highland town of Nekemte. The only other Muger River Gorge Shoa region, and remains one of Ethiopia’s overland option is from Sudan at the Me- WB [SF@ largest and most important. Today, five re- DEATH AT DEBRE LIBANOS tema crossing ( p275 ). The Muger River Gorge, some 50km north ligious schools are found here. During the Italian occupation, Debre Liban os of Addis Ababa, is a good spot for a bit Many Ethiopians continue to make pil- witnessed some of the worst excesses of Getting Around of rambling and wildlife-watching. The en- grimages and some still seek out the area’s Fascist brutality. Following the attempt on Ethiopian Airlines has flights interconnect- demic gelada baboon is often seen here, as curative holy waters – said to be good for the life of the infamous viceroy Graziani, the ing Ba hir Dar, Gonder, Lalibela and Aksum. are a good variety of birds. evil spirits and stomach disorders! monastery, long suspected as a hotbed of Flights also link Mekele with Aksum. Access is from the village of Durba, The present church, the latest in a succes- rebel activity, was singled out for reprisal. Road construction is booming and freshly which sits 17km west of Chancho and the sion of structures, was built in 1961 by Haile On 20 May 1937, 267 monks – ‘all without sealed sections of road now connect Addis Addis Ababa–Bahir Dar road. There are a Selassie after a priest apparently prophesied distinction’ – were executed; a week later, NORTHERN ETHIOPIA Ababa with Bahir Dar and Gonder (though couple daily share-taxis linking Durba and that a new church would ensure a long Graziani ordered the execution of all of the still expect a few older potholed sections!). Chancho (Birr5, 45 to 60 minutes), though reign. It’s built in the emperor’s peculiar 129 young deacons as well. Satisfied at last, In the east, new sections of sealed road more run on Saturday. To continue north style: monumental and pretty hideous. he wrote to Mussolini, ‘The monastery is now all but link Adigrat, Mekele and Wol- or south from Chancho, you can hop on Besides what’s believed to be the saint’s closed – definitively’. dia. The old sealed road connecting Addis the buses running between Addis Ababa tomb, the church interior isn’t too interest- Ababa to Woldia is currently being over- and Bahir Dar. ing. The stained-glass windows and mural hauled. While fresh roads have reduced paintings aren’t by Afewerk Tekle, as church Before the Italians built the bridge with the extensive bus network’s travel times, Debre Libanos & Fiche literature claims. their usual civil engineering flair, the Blue XD@ NORTHERN ETHIOPIA journeys are still lengthy due to the massive Five minutes up the hill from the monas- Nile River separated the historical prov- distances being covered. Expect at least 10 Lying 104km north of Addis Ababa, 4.2km tery is Tekla Haimanot’s cave, where the saint inces of Shoa and Gojam. Although your solid days of bus journeys to complete the off the main Addis Ababa–Debre Markos is said to have done all his praying. It’s also eyes will undoubtedly be drawn downward 2500km-long historical circuit. road, is one of Ethiopia’s most holy sites. the source of the monastery’s holy water. to the bridge and gorge, don’t forget to look The only area you’ll have trouble finding The monastery of Debre Libanos (admission Birr50, If you climb past the cave, there’s a mar- up – lammergeyer vultures regularly soar regular public transport is around the rock- personal video cameras Birr50) was founded in the vellous view of the monastery in its dra- the gorge’s thermals. hewn churches of Tigray. 13th century by a priest credited not only matic setting. The cross-shaped tomb near The Alem Hotel (%0587 760010; s with shared To visit the Danakil Depression, you’ll with the spread of Christianity throughout the car park is dedicated to those executed bathroom Birr30, s/d Birr70/80) in Dejen, on the have travel by private or rented 4WD. the highlands, but also with the restoration by the Fascists (see the boxed text, right ). gorge’s northern rim, is the nearest sleeping of the Solomonic line of kings. The priest was Near the turn-off to the monastery is the and eating option. The rooms are clean and Tekla Haimanot, today one of Ethiopia’s most so-called 16th-century Portuguese Bridge, in fact bright, but prices are seriously faranji-fied.