WET SEAL LOSS GROWS/2 JEWELRY AND POLITICS/11 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 23, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/ ME, Too — Wal-Mart continues to ramp up its fashion, and its George brand is the latest to get the designer touch. The retailer will introduce George ME by Mark Eisen for fall, a 35-piece sportswear collection designed by Mark Eisen of Karoo Mark Eisen. The line, specifi cally for the U.S., will retail from $19 for a cableknit sweater to $70 for a suede jacket. Here, a cotton and nylon blouse, a silk and rayon cardigan, and polyester and rayon pants. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Hilfiger Slims Down: 230 Jobs Cut in U.S., New Team Appointed By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — Tommy’s going Dutch. In a sweeping consolidation of operations at Tommy Hilfiger Corp., the $1.7 billion apparel firm, some 230 people were let go Monday as the company outlined a new organizational structure and worldwide leadership team. As part of the restructuring, the brand’s corporate headquarters will relocate to Amsterdam, while its New York offices will, in effect, become a satellite unit. Other initiatives include the closure of the H Hilfiger vertical retailing business and the ending of the children’s wear See Hilfi ger, Page 12 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 WWD.COM Wet Seal Loss Expands on Charges By Arthur Zaczkiewicz prove our effi ciency and reduce WWDTUESDAY costs.” Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Weighed down The retailer said the sales by several big charges, Wet Seal gain in the quarter was driven Inc. posted a wider loss in the by a 20 percent same-store sales GENERAL first quarter, although the com- . “The growth in compa- Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. plans to substantially reduce its New York staff and pany said operating income rable-store sales was driven by 1 name a new management team under new ceo Fred Gehring. came in higher than expected. increased transaction counts and Weighed down by charges, Wet Seal Inc. posted a wider loss in the fi rst The Foothill Ranch, Calif.- the number of items purchased quarter, but said operating income came in higher than expected. based teen retailer said its loss per customer, partially offset by 2 in the quarter ended April 29 a in the average retail Mariella Burani Fashion Group expects to raise $132.7 million to $157.9 was $13.7 million, or 22 cents a price per item sold,” the retailer 3 million from the fl otation of its accessories subsidiary Antichi Pellettieri. diluted share, which compares said in a statement. “The compa- EYE: Despite the snowfl akes, glaciers and polar bears hanging from the with a loss of $8.6 million, or ny also modifi ed the terms of its ceiling, temperatures soared at Chopard’s annual Trophy Awards dinner. 23 cents, in the previous year Arden B. customer loyalty pro- 4 on sales that grew 21 percent gram, resulting in recognition FASHION: George, Wal-Mart’s classic clothing brand, will offer a capsule to $125.1 million from $103.8 of sales previously deferred of 6 collection by Mark Eisen, to bow for fall called George ME by Mark Eisen. million. Excluding debt-related $2.3 million. The amount of the Diamond merchants are working to ensure that the sparkling gem charges of $18.1 million, as well sales increase associated with remains a girl’s best friend instead of a product caught in controversy. as several other charges and the credit was not included in 11 gains related to severance pay, determining comparable-store stock compensation and other sales for the quarter.” Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 items, net income was $8 mil- lion, or 9 cents a share, while To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. operating income came in at [email protected], using the individual’s name. $8.1 million, the company said Our operation is running smoothly and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- in a statement. Analysts’ consen- “ RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. we are continually fi nding ways to improve VOLUME 191, NO. 110. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- sus estimate called for earnings ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- per share of 5 cents. ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Joel Waller, chief executive our effi ciency and reduce costs. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and offi cer, said in a statement that — Joel Waller,” Wet Seal Inc. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; the retailer’s operating income David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior rate “substantially exceeded our Wet Seal’s gross profi t mar- the company said. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. expectations and resulted from gin rose to 37.4 from 36.2 (which Regarding store openings, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. growth in merchandise margins, includes the impact of the loy- Waller said the company is “on 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable leverage from additional sales, alty program modifi cation). “A track” to open 20 to 25 stores Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS and improvements in almost number of factors contributed this year. During the quarter, the CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR every component of our selling to this improvement, including company opened two Wet Seal DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four and general and administra- the positive effect of higher mer- stores and closed one. At the weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. tive expenses. Our operation is chandise margins and higher av- end of the quarter, the retailer Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. running smoothly and we are erage store sales on occupancy, operated 309 Wet Seal units and First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, continually fi nding ways to im- buying and distribution costs,” 92 Arden B. stores. and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- NORMAN COHEN SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR-  ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, SEPTEMBER 20, 1927~MAY 14, 2006 OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED My Father, Friend, Mentor In Brief I Love You, Paul ● WAL-MART’S SOUTH KOREA SALE: Wal-Mart Stores Inc. is selling its South Korean retail business to Shinsegae Co. for $882 million, the retailer said Monday. Shinsegae, which op- erates 79 E-Mart hypermarkets in South Korea, will convert the 16 Wal-Mart Korea stores to the E-Mart nameplate. “As we continue to focus our efforts where we can have the greatest impact on our growth strategy, it became increasingly clear that in South Korea’s current environment it would be diffi cult for us to reach the scale we desired,” said Mike Duke, vice chair- man of Wal-Mart Stores, in a statement. Although Wal-Mart is selling its Korean store operation, it will continue to operate its global procurement sourcing offi ce in Seoul. Many of Wal- Mart’s stores in the U.S. and abroad carry goods manufactured in South Korea. Wal-Mart operates more than 2,600 stores in 15 markets outside the U.S., according to the company. Sales in its international division were $63 billion in the retailer’s most recent fi scal year, an 11 percent gain over the prior year. The retailer said it plans on opening between 220 and 230 stores outside the U.S. this year.

● MOSSIMO POSTS LOSS: Mossimo posted a fi rst-quarter net loss of $1.2 million, or 7 cents a diluted share, compared to earnings of $1.8 million, or 12 cents a diluted share, in the same period last year as sales dropped 43.7 percent to $4.9 million from $8.7 million. The company reported an operating loss of $2.1 million compared to operating earnings of $3.1 mil- lion during the previous year’s quarter. The company said it paid a non-recurring, $6 million charge to Target Corp. during the quarter to amend and restate its license agreement with the retailer. “We were pleased with the pace of our business during the quarter, as we registered meaningful gains in both our men’s and women’s business at Target,” said Edwin Lewis, Mossimo’s president and co-chief executive offi cer.

Correction The fi rst names of Jamie and Erik Nordstrom were misspelled in stories on pages 7 and 8, Monday. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 3 WWD.COM

Inside the renovated Burani Set to Sell Luisa Beccaria shop. Pellettieri Shares By Luisa Zargani MILAN—Mariella Burani Fashion Group said Monday it expects to raise 105 to 125 million euros, or $132.7 million to $157.9 million at current ex- change, from the flotation of its accessories subsid- iary Antichi Pellettieri. MBFG plans to list 14.7 million shares of Antichi Pellettieri on the Milan bourse. The retail offering has been set for between May 26 and June 1. Trading will commence June 7. The shares will be priced at between 7.15 euros and 8.50 euros, or $9 and $10.70, per share. Capitalia and Mediobanca will be the list- ing partners, global coordinators and book runners. MBFG will sell up to 2.2 million shares, or 15 per- cent of the global offering. “This will provide an im- portant gain for MBFG: We are thinking of our share- holders,” said Giovanni Burani, chairman of Antichi Pellettieri and chief executive offi cer of MBFG. “We might offer extraordinary dividends. In any case, we will focus on our company-owned brands, and maybe even re-create an Antichi Pellettieri conglomerate of different product categories,” said Burani. Antichi Pellettieri, created in 2000, includes the Braccialini, Baldinini, Francesco Biasia, Sebastian and Coccinelle brands. Coccinelle, which produces handbags for Miss Sixty under license, was purchased last month. There is also a small apparel division, which accounts for 8 percent of sales and comprises GFM Industria SpA and Enrico Mandelli SpA. This division produces the Ter et Bantine and Anglomania of Vivienne Westwood brands, among others. “The listing is stimulating for our management, and it conveys the idea of where the company is headed,” said Burani. “Managers own 8 percent of the capital, and they have a palpable value of Boutique Captures Beccaria’s World the company. We’re replicating what we did with MBFG.” By Luisa Zargani 22, to help as she constantly supplies “fresh” ideas for MBFG was listed in 2000. “The secret of a good the new categories presented in the boutique: fl ower- conglomerate is to maintain the managers with- MILAN — Luisa Beccaria wants to show what her world printed T-shirts, broderie anglaise miniskirts and ma- in the separate companies,” said analyst Carlo is all about through her newly renovated boutique in rine-patterned swimsuits embellished with tiny col- Pambianco, head of Pambianco Strategie d’Impresa. Milan’s artsy Brera district. ored beads. “The Burani family lets the managers run the The boutique now carries all of the brand’s product Beccaria was actively involved in the design of the companies, while adding strategic support,” said categories, from its wedding and evening gowns to the store, together with architect Nathalie Jean and artist Pambianco, noting that, in addition, “this is a group new innerwear, beachwear and costume jewelry divi- Chris Ruhs. According to Beccaria, the Milan boutique where brands are well balanced.” sions. The designer has added a new line of home acces- is now “less of an atelier” and more of a “boutique Fabrizio Malverdi, in charge of business devel- sories, ranging from hand-made glasses opment, said the listing of Antichi Pellettieri was and carafes to towels and home linens always in the cards, but that this was the right mo- embroidered with the same lace used in Luisa Beccaria (right) with her ment to carry it on. “There is a very favorable state her dresses. Beccaria also has expanded daughter, Lucilla Bonaccorsi. tax on capital gains that was approved by the previ- her children’s wear, footwear and accesso- ous government,” said Malverdi, also citing a gener- ries divisions, showing new pieces such as ally positive stock market. ballerinas and bucket bags that reemploy In 2005, Antichi Pellettieri reported sales of 154 materials used in the ready-to-wear. million euros, or $194.6 million, up 16.4 percent “A lot of research goes into the materi- from the previous year. Ebidta grew 33 percent to als and I personally choose and apply the 20.2 million euros, or $25.5 million, which the com- colors to the prints,” said the designer. pany attributed to outsourcing and an improved “For this reason, I believe in spinning the sales mix. In the fi rst quarter, revenues jumped 34.6 same fabrics as much as possible across percent to 56.5 million euros, or $71.4 million, which different product categories.” the company attributed to double-digit growth of the Accordingly, Beccaria said she’s also Braccialini and Baldinini brands, the expansion of thinking of creating a small collection of a direct distribution network and a 72 percent in- shirts and boxers for men and boys using crease in sales in the Far East. Ebidta grew 142.5 the same rtw fabrics. Beccaria’s collections percent to 8.6 million euros, or $10.8 million, in the are manufactured by artisans and outside quarter. Antichi Pellettieri said this gain was due to factories under production contracts and a streamlining of production and distribution, better not under licensing agreements. integration and an improved sales mix. The new one-story, 4,320-square-foot Burani said Antichi Pellettieri’s mission is to boutique more than doubles the original become “a world leader in the accessible luxury store space. The boutique fi rst opened 15 segment,” and that he “really believe[s] in acces- years ago. sible luxury, which protects itself well in tough The designer is eager to invest in her times,” setting Coach as the group’s model. Antichi own retail chain. Last month, Beccaria Pellettieri produces 2.6 million pieces per year. opened a boutique in Moscow, modeled Handbags retail for between 150 and 300 euros, or after the Milan concept store, and is $190 and $380, while footwear retails between 350 actively scouting for a location in New and 400 euros, or $440 and $500. York. In the U.S., the brand is available at “We plan to expand in Russia, Eastern Europe, Neiman Marcus, Linda Dresner, Ultimo

the Middle and Far East and Japan, as this market and Stanley Korshak, among others. The MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY today is much more open to accessible luxury, and list of celebrities donning Beccaria spans not only high-end luxury goods,” said Burani. Itochu from Uma Thurman and to Jennifer Lopez, with a touch of glamour.” The original white and cream owns 3.3 percent of Antichi Pellettieri, which has Sarah Jessica Parker and . Following walls are now painted in mother-of-pearl and wisteria helped the company grow in the Far East. New York, the designer would like to open stores in shades, and the wooden fl oors are covered with layers Exports account for 59 percent of sales. The London and Paris. of iridescent resin and fl ower petals, which were sub- group lists 119 boutiques, of which 83 are fran- “The next step is to really grow and make a big sequently sprayed over with paint. The effect is similar chised, around the world. Burani said he plans to leap, perhaps even with the help of an investor, be- to that of a pool of shiny, icy water. Beccaria commis- open between eight and 10 brand boutiques each cause now I believe I’ve fi ne-tuned the product,” said sioned dozens of Murano glass chandeliers and wall year in the next three years. the designer. lamps with crystal drops. The designer said the crystal LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s invest- That said, Beccaria also wants to expand her prod- drop is increasingly becoming her logo. The drops re- ment fund L Capital currently owns a 6 percent uct category with a new, younger line and said she is place the door handles and stand out on stuccoed walls stake in MBFG, but no longer has a stake in Antichi in talks with “American groups” to support the proj- as an open-work decoration. Pellettieri. ect. She declined to provide details, but Beccaria said The boutique is located near Beccaria’s showroom she would rely on her daughter, Lucilla Bonaccorsi, and show venue. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 WWD.COM

Elizabeth Hurley in Croisette Crawl Versace. CANNES, France — “There’s a madness to Cannes unlike any other film festival,” said the Dior Homme-clad actor Elijah Wood at the opening bash last Thursday for “Paris, je t’aime” held on the wooden deck of Cannes’ old port. Nearby, co-star Aïssa Maïga, wearing a red Elie Saab couture gown and a substantial Chopard diamond choker, darted nervous backward glances at her bodyguard. At the bar, a grizzled Nick Nolte, sporting polkadot suspenders, was engrossed in conversation with . “I was telling her about an old gag Woody Harrelson and I once pulled on Sean Penn involving a cop,” growled Nolte, pretending to pull out a pistol. Nearby, Catalina Sandino Moreno, who just wrapped up shooting for “The Hottest State,” written and directed by Ethan Hawke, raved about her costumes for her next venture, the period costume drama “The Heart of the Earth.” “It’s impossible to breathe in the corsets, but it’s quite something to feel transported to another era,” said the rising Colombian star. Dressed in Armani Privé, she said Ziyi Zhang in she doesn’t normally give fashion Giorgio Armani. a second thought. Indeed, on Saturday, she opted for a pair of old Ray- Bans and a vintage summer dress to join Sarah co-stars Hawke and Ana Claudia Talancón Michelle for the “Fast Food Nation” cocktail party Gellar at the American Pavilion. in Vera “It sounds like McDonald’s may be Wang. coming after us, but I’m not losing any sleep,” quipped director Richard Linklater about the fi lm, which is certain to turn Dita Von Teese at many viewers off of hamburgers. Fittingly, the “Southland a vegetarian spread was put out for guests. Tales” premiere. That night, despite the snowfl akes, glaciers and polar bears hanging from the ceiling at the Carlton Hotel, Juliette temperatures soared at Chopard’s annual Trophy Awards dinner, where Binoche guests crammed in to watch a series of performances opened by the Spanish in Lanvin. fl amenco dancer Joaquín Cortés. By the time the showgirls hit the stage, even De Grisognono president Fawaz Gruosi sprang up to twirl on a dance pole. Festival jury member Ziyi Zhang, herself a trained dancer, was overwhelmed by the fl amenco din. “I prefer tap dancing, or ‘tee taa wu,’ in Chinese,” she said, fl eeing the room. “I love classical ballet,” purred Liz Hurley, clad in deep purple Versace. Hurley said she was in town for the fi rst catwalk show of her swimwear line, which now includes styles for children. There was no shortage of sparkle at the event, with David Furnish fl ashing his Chopard wedding ring. His hubby, Sir Elton John, had gone home to bed with a sore throat, leaving Furnish to catch up later with Tom Ford, Paris Hilton, Al Gore and crew at the Vanity Fair party. The rest of the crowd piled into the Nikki Beach club to watch Dita Von Teese perform her pinup routine under the adoring oddball eyes of husband Marilyn Manson. “I’ll be back next year for the screening of my own fi lm, ‘Phantasmagoria: The Visions of Lewis Carroll,’” said Manson, who will occupy the director’s chair in October. Von Teese said she always travels with her own clothes instead of borrowing from fashion houses. “I like to do it the old-fashioned way,” she said. But the approach does have its perils. “I landed in Cannes with barely MONIKA RITTERSHAUS TE” BY a toothbrush and even managed to leave my dresses behind on the plane,” confessed , who managed to scare up a Vera Wang number for the premiere of “Southland Tales.” “I don’t know what I was thinking.” The Catalina Sandino Moreno in star relaxed with the fi lm crew and “X-Men” pal Rebecca Romijn on the Big Armani Privé with Ethan Hawke. Eagle yacht before scurrying off to prepare for her ascent up the red carpet. — Katya Foreman

A scene from “Kälte.” 2007, then will move to Geneva the following year, and there’s talk of it going to Lincoln Center in New York. Ode to Love Cannon carefully researched the ancient period, BERLIN — Talk about bridging the cultural divide. but, she insists, “this is not a costume drama. It will The opera “Kälte” (“Da gelo a gelo,” or “From Frost feel immediate.” Her creations bridge past and to New Frost”), which premiered Sunday night at present, with a few compromises to accommodate the the Rococo Theatre in Schloss Schwetzingen, brings demands of staging. For example, the kimonos are not together an almost dizzying spectrum of cultures and as voluminous as they would be traditionally. “Those

epochs. The opera is based on the 11th-century diaries clothes weighed people down to an incredible extent. TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE; “KAL ULLI/WIREIMAGE; OTHER CANNES BY and poems by the Japanese court lady Izumi Shikibu, Women were on the fl oor a lot,” she explained. Brown who conducted a none-too-secret affair with Prince urged Cannon to try to re-create the almost origami-like Atsumichi that rocked Old Japan. It is composed by the forms one sees in early graphic depictions of kimonos ultramodern Salvatore Sciarrino in a co-production of in Japanese art. The results are impressive: The court the Schwetzingen Festival, the Opéra National de Paris lady Izumi has two reversible kimonos, which represent and the Grand Theatre of Geneva. Other collaborators the seasons and “the emotional impact of color,” include the celebrated avant-garde American Cannon explains. Spring is a lime green style lined with choreographer Trisha Brown, who directed the opera, graduated shades of coral, to represent summer; while the French stage designer Daniel Jeanneteau and New fall is mauve silk with burnt orange on the and York-based costume designer Elizabeth Cannon. sleeves — which reverses to ice-blue satin for winter. Subtitled “110 scenes with 65 poems,” “Kälte” is “What we all hope is that you’ll be transported to a really a fragmented continuum. Sciarrino described total world that is outside of time,” Cannon remarked. his work as a “continuous change from small and “That’s how it feels to me. Like a dream place. large, closed and open, direct and indirect.” Without “There’s a very important Japanese word that breaks, all the costume changes take place onstage, means ‘pathos’ but is really their concept of beauty making the clothing an integral part of the opera, — that all beauty is fragile, passing, perishable,” she which runs through Wednesday night as part of the continues, describing the world of this opera as “like Schwetzingen Festival. “Kälte” will next be staged at a dewdrop.” the Opéra National de Paris-Palais Garnier in May — Melissa Drier BINOCHE AND MORENO PHOTOS BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; ZHANG BY JOHN SCI ZHANG BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; BINOCHE AND MORENO PHOTOS BY FedEx keeps me on top, without keeping me on pins and needles.

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© 2006 FedEx 6 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 New George in Town

By Samantha Conti GEORGE IS GETTING A DESIGNER BOOST. Wal-Mart’s classic clothing brand, whose design roots are in Britain, will offer a capsule collection by Mark Eisen, to bow for fall. The 35-piece collection, George ME by Mark Eisen, is fi lled with aspirational clothing in the spirit of great American sportswear. “They’re chic, polished, luxurious stand-alone items,” the South African born-Eisen told WWD. “And just like any great American sportswear pieces, they’re meant to be mixed and matched.” The collection, to arrive on the shop fl oor in mid-August, will be sold at all 3,205 Wal-Mart stores nationwide and on the retailer’s Web site. It will be updated every six weeks. There are no plans to introduce the line outside the U.S., however. George ME is the latest addition to Wal-Mart’s $25 billion apparel business, and follows the successful launch of Metro 7, a contemporary clothing brand that bowed last fall. The new George line is part of Wal-Mart’s drive to grow its clothing business, particularly at the fashion end. While successful, George has never had the traction in the U.S. that it has achieved in the U.K. “This new collection brings a nuance and a modern twist to the classic George apparel, and is meant to complement and be layered in with the core product,” said Doug Howe, Wal-Mart’s senior vice president of product development for apparel. Indeed, George ME will share the same theme and color story of George each season. Howe said the reason for choosing a designer with a recognized name goes back to the roots of the George brand, which was founded in the U.K. 16 years ago by British retail guru George Davies, who now does a collection for Marks & Spencer. “We’ve taken a page out of the George playbook, and gone back to its roots,” Howe said. He declined to discuss sales projections for the new capsule collection, or for George as a whole. Globally, George is a 1 billion pound, or $1.89 billion, business, whose biggest markets are the U.K., Mexico and Canada. Eisen was a natural choice because of his emphasis on fi t, fi ne tailoring and modern vision, Howe said. “We really wanted to offer a designer aesthetic at affordable value,” he said. Eisen’s debut collection features tops, bottoms, tailored jackets and knitwear. Not surprisingly, there’s a black suit, black trenchcoat with ivory details, a two-button houndstooth jacket with peaked lapels, cable cardigans that hit the knee, cropped or long herringbone trousers, accordion- pleated and ruffl ed shirts and suede coats. Prices range from approximately $19 for a wool-blend cableknit sweater to $70 for a suede jacket. Eisen said Wal-Mart has stretched traditional boundaries with regard to fabrics, workmanship and tailoring. “I am so impressed with the value they’ve brought to the collection, and the credibility — and luxury — of the fabrics,” said Eisen. Fabrics include cashmere-blend knitwear, superfi ne cottons for blouses and chinos, wool blends for mid-season jackets and denim for trousers as well as jeans. Details and fi nishes, he added, are crucial to the new collection. “We’ve considered each element of the garment, and the tailoring,” said Eisen, adding there are printed or piped linings for jackets, waistbands with contrasting prints, contrasting saddle stitching on suede outerwear and silver hardware and grommets on car coats. The end goal, Eisen said, is to turn the capsule collection into a lifestyle one, and accessories are the next step, although he declined to give any details. “It will be a natural progression to a head-to- toe look,” the designer said. Wal-Mart’s more-cautious Howe said it would be up to the customer to decide just how big the line actually gets. A fall ad campaign is in the works, said Howe, although he declined to provide further details. Eisen said his job wasn’t particularly diffi cult at Wal-Mart because the merchandise team knew exactly what it wanted. “They have some very, very talented merchants who pinpointed the female customer and her lifestyle. When we sat down to talk, it was all clear. Their vision was the reason I decided to do the job. They are reaching up.” Eisen’s past experience ranges from a signature line of clothing and knitwear to a short spell at Ann Taylor to made-to-measure clothing for private clients to the current knitwear line, called Karoo Mark Eisen, which is sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Selfridges. He said he had no problems making the transition to the mass market — and the single largest shopping audience in the world. Wal-Mart reckons it gets 130 million customers through its doors on a weekly basis. “It is a great opportunity to touch a lot of people,” said Eisen, adding that designing for vastly different markets is a modern and democratic approach for designers working today. He’s certainly not the fi rst to dip into the mass market. Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Solange Azagury-Partridge all have designed capsule collections for H&M — and Viktor and Rolf will design for the Swedish retailer in the fall. Sixties print designer Celia Birtwell’s limited-edition clothing collection for London’s Topshop was so popular that frenzied customers were tearing the clothing out of one another’s hands minutes after the line launched. Zandra Rhodes, Sophia Kokosalaki and Marcus Lupfer are among the other names who’ve designed for Topshop. Although the U.K. division of George has never named a famous designer, it consistently has been ahead of the supermarket fashion pack. In addition to its classic range in the U.K., the brand has launched fast- fashion, activewear, denim and bridalwear. Earlier this year, it introduced a collection called Must Haves, a capsule of the season’s key “icon” looks, with rapid-fi re delivery cycles of four to fi ve weeks. Today, ASDA will announce it has named Colleen McLoughlin, the British media darling and fashion- loving fi ancée of soccer player Wayne Rooney, as the face of Must Haves. Angela Spindler, Global George’s managing director, was fl ying back to the U.K. from New York at press time and could not be reached for comment about the Mark Eisen line. She was in the U.S. for most of the last week, working with the U.S. team on the launch. “The U.S. market is huge for us, and we’re making great progress there,” Spindler told WWD earlier this year. Global George is the Leeds, England-based business that designs, merchandises and markets the collection to ASDA and Wal-Mart stores worldwide. Each country works within parameters set out by the George design team, and can tap into Wal-Mart’s worldwide sourcing network. The U.S. is the fi rst to launch a market-specifi c initiative by hiring a designer. As reported, Wal-Mart has been focusing on beefi ng up its apparel offer and boosting its fashion credibility. Wal-Mart said in a statement Monday that the launch of George ME exemplifi ed the new direction it is taking with its fashion brands. The company plans to focus more on customer research, operate a New York offi ce aimed at picking up on the latest trends, differentiating as much as possible its different brands on offer, fi lling “gaps” in the brand geography and training merchandisers to improve the overall shopping experience. On the heels of the successful Metro 7 launch, there are plans to launch new apparel lines, reposition the junior line No Boundaries and launch an urban-inspired brand for men in July. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 7 WWD.COM

George ME by ▲ A polyester and A cotton and Mark Eisen’s rayon jacket, spandex trench, cotton and $29.82; a $39.82, and a cashmere cable silk and rayon silk and nylon cardigan, $44.82; shell, $17.82, turtleneck, silk and nylon and a polyester $16.82. turtleneck, skirt, $19.57. $16.82, and polyester and rayon herringbone pants, $23.57.

A suede jacket, $69.82; a viscose and cotton pullover, $19.82, and cotton and spandex jeans, $19.82.

A polyester and spandex knit wrap dress, $19.57.

A silk and nylon turtleneck, $16.82; a cotton and nylon shirt, $13.82, and a polyester and wool tweed skirt, $19.57. ▲ PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; JEWELRY FROM GEORGE ME BY MARK EISEN ERICKSEN; JEWELRY FROM GEORGE ME BY KYLE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 WWD.COM Wedded Bliss NEW YORK — How do you create the perfect wedding? Just ask those who were on hand last Tuesday at the Modern Bride 25 Trendsetters of 2006 awards dinner, held at the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park. The host, editor in chief of the magazine Antonia van der Meer, toasted the industry heavyweights who have influenced the wedding world in the past year. “Things have loosened up so much,” said van der Meer, “but weddings are still all about specific details. People used to pair wines and even cigars with the reception meal; now they’re pairing teas.” — who, as Erica Kane on “,” has had her share of nuptials Susan Lucci — was in attendance, presenting an award to Jacob the Jeweler, Jacob Arabo. (Lucci, however, opted to wear her own Fred Leighton and Cartier diamonds.) In fact, not long ago, the actress planned a wedding herself for her daughter, Liza, who was married in March 2004. “Preston [Bailey] did our fl owers, and Vera Wang made dresses for both of us,” Lucci said. Meanwhile, Kate Spade received a nod for her brand’s trendsetting invitations. “I think brides are becoming less traditional today and enjoying themselves more,” said Spade. “And I know a thing or two about being untraditional — I had two parties for my wedding, with two gowns.” (For the record, she wore Isaac Mizrahi and Cynthia Rowley when she married Andy Spade.) Star Jones Reynolds slipped in just long enough to present an award to David Tutera, the event planner who orchestrated her November 2004 wedding. “He’s a dream-maker,” she said. And Bo Derek was there to support her beau, John Corbett, who performed with his namesake band after the awards ceremony. “I was married at 17 in Vegas, and now Bo Derek, Antonia van der here I am at Modern Bride,” she said. Star Jones Reynolds Kate Spade Meer and John Corbett.

— David Yassky JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY

International Presentation of Bridal and Formal Wear 2007 Collections

23-26 June 2006

in cooperation with with the patronage of

organized by EXPOCTS S.p.A. info: +39 0234984.1 www.sposaitaliacollezioni.expocts.it e-mail: [email protected] Commercio, Fiere e Mercati WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 9 WWD.COM & Trade Report Outsourcing’s Other Side Deputy USTR: No Vietnam Changes By John Zarocostas business school, said in a phone inter- view that the global fi rms most at risk By Kristi Ellis GENEVA — Companies that move manu- of creating their own competitors are facturing abroad to lower production probably those that relocate assets and WASHINGTON — The Bush administration, despite pressure from the U.S. textile in- costs stand to benefi t from comparative production in China. dustry and some members of Congress, has no plans to push for continued quota re- advantages, but also run a risk of creating He said normally foreign fi rms need straints or a special textile safeguard on Vietnam in the next phase of Vietnam’s effort new competitors, a global report said. a local partner, transfer technology and to join the World Trade Organization. “An extended, global value chain fi nance in the venture. But in some in- Deputy U.S. Trade Representative Karan Bhatia defended the agreement in prin- based on the networking of partners stances, the local partner, after it gains ciple with Vietnam Monday in advance of a three-country trip he will begin today to implies more corporate proprietary enough experience and confidence, Taiwan, India and Vietnam. information is freely shared inside the can go it alone and branch out inde- “We believe that this is an agreement that our textile manufacturers should be system and thus can be copied or sto- pendently to manufacture and build its comfortable with,” Bhatia said. “I understand that they are not, but we sincerely be- len,” said the World Competitiveness own brand, Garelli said. lieve members of Congress should be strongly supportive of the agreement and…we’ve Yearbook 2006. “In such an open envi- He said some established apparel sought, and thus far been encouraged by, the bilateral support that the agreement ap- ronment, friends can quickly turn into fi rms with strong brand appeal are less pears to be getting” in Congress. enemies.” threatened, but others could quickly Bhatia said it is the administration’s “hope” that legislation granting Permanent The study, compiled by the lose new-found market share and fi nd Normal Trade Relations status for Vietnam, a requirement needed to join the WTO, International Institute of Management their investment squandered. He said would move through Congress after the two countries sign the accord. Development, Lausanne, Switzerland, Chinese fi rms, for example, are con- But one Congressional aide for a textile-state member, who requested anonym- points out that advances in commu- centrating more resources on building ity, said U.S. trade offi cials cannot “guarantee anything at this point.” The aide said nication, transportation and logistics brand appeal and good quality. textile-state lawmakers would be less likely to vote for a bill that does not include have enabled firms to “manage the Increasingly, Garelli said, Chinese continued restraints for Vietnamese apparel and textile imports. value chain globally” and develop mul- brands in computers, TVs and cell The U.S. textile industry is displeased with the trade deal the U.S. reached in ticountry sourcing strategies. phones “are attacking established principle with Vietnam that sets the terms of the country’s membership in the WTO. “The proliferation of powerful new brands in the rest of the world.” The domestic industry wanted an extension of existing apparel and textile quotas on local enterprises and brands in China The lowering of trade barriers and Vietnam or a special textile safeguard similar to one with China. and India illustrates how quickly the the explosion of the Internet, notes Bhatia argued that the U.S. secured a strong enforcement mechanism that will allow world is producing new actors and the report, are accelerating the pace the administration to reimpose apparel and textile quotas for a year if Vietnam does not competitors on the…landscape today,” of change. completely abolish all prohibited subsidies to those industries before its accession to the the study said. The report projects that a key dy- WTO or within a year of joining. He said the accord gives the domestic industry “added The latest yearbook, which ranks 61 namic in the global economy will be protection from the danger [that] Vietnam might not live up to its commitments.” economies on economic performance, the “creation of a middle class in previ- National Council of Textile Organizations offi cials went to Capitol Hill last week seeking government and business effi ciency, ously…underdeveloped markets, main- the advice of House Textile Caucus members on options it could pursue regarding Vietnam. and infrastructure, ranked the U.S. as ly in Asia, where 600 million people “This agreement strips the industry of its ability to defend itself against Vietnam’s the world’s leading economy. already reached this status in the past subsidy regime and, as a matter of survival, we will fi ght very hard to make sure it is However, the study also shows China fi ve years and thereby generated an ex- corrected in Congress,” said Cass Johnson, president of NCTO. moving up 12 places to 19th and India plosion in consumer goods sales.” “Do key Republicans from textile states want to vote on a controversial trade bill gaining 10 slots to 29th. Garelli estimated this new middle three or four months before their reelection?” asked Auggie Tantillo, executive direc- Stéphane Garelli, principal author class represents a combined gross do- tor of American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. of the study and a professor at the mestic product in excess of $4 trillion.

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A second store is expected to Miller and Iman were to headline an opening open at the end of next year, Shebar said, although he night party Monday in the 4,000-square-foot boutique declined to name where. at 114 West 116th Street. Initially, Miller’s company As for the demand for Miller’s dresses, Shebar said, had planned to open a freestanding store with Nikoa “They’re fun and fl irty. They look good in a range of Evans, one of N Boutique’s owners. After a prime spot sizes, and they’re a great value.” near Fairway’s West 132nd Street location fell through, Tracy Reese, BCBG, Byron Lars and Marimekko Evans and her partners decided to go with a multibrand are among the other women’s apparel brands in the two-level store. Denim labels include Chip & Pepper, Citizens of Humanity, G-Star, Earnest Sewn, Miss Sixty, and Energie. Home collections such as those from Jonathan Adler and Red Flower are also available. The store is across 116th Street from Amy Ruth’s, a Southern-style restaurant that attracts customers from across the city. But N Boutique is an anomaly in the up- town retail scene. Strivers Gardens, a residential and retail complex at 300 West 135th Street (which currently only has a Chase Manhattan bank and a Duane Reade), caters to a professional crowd, and Harlem shoppers want equally stylish clothes, Konheim said. “Everyone thinks there’s a lot of discounting uptown, but this crowd doesn’t want anything marked down or secondary,” he said. Upscale retail and professional offi ces are envi- sioned as a major part of Strivers Gardens, with a total A display at of 37,000 square feet of commercial space to be leased. N Boutique. Cosmetics are also sold at the store. An apparel company planned to open a store there, but bowed out because its 125th Street store was doing so boutique, said Bud Konheim, chief executive offi cer of well, said Robert Friedman, the developer of the site keting organization, Konheim praised the chamber’s chair- Nicole Miller. along with his brother Bernard. They received 4,900 ap- man, Lloyd Williams, for “making it easy to move uptown.” The company, a member of the Greater Harlem Chamber plications for 169 apartments, with the average one sell- “What no one understands is, Harlem is a great tour- of Commerce since 1996, was eager to be part of the neigh- ing for $300,000, Robert Friedman said. ist attraction for tourists from Finland, Spain and all borhood’s retail resurgence and regards N Boutique as the The makeup of the neighborhood stands to change over Europe,” Konheim said. “The problem is getting ideal place to reach uptown’s affl uent shoppers — a sector drastically, should nearby Columbia University’s expan- tourists from downtown. Harlem has the greatest square that is underserved by designers, he said. sion plans for a new West Harlem campus come to frui- footage [available for development] compared to any The strategy seems to be paying off, considering the tion. The complex would cover almost 18 acres from 125 to other neighborhood in the city.” average Nicole Miller retail purchase at N Boutique is 133rd Streets. However, local offi cials and residents have He continued, “The last thing Lloyd wants is a mirror $650, Konheim said. Nicole Miller accounts for about 25 been critical of the proposal, saying it would destroy the image of downtown. He is crafting a fi nely tuned uptown percent of the women’s apparel sold in the store. The area’s communal feel and would wipe out many of its ten- personality that will attract downtown buyers because designer’s party dresses retailing for around $300 are ements, mom-and-pop shops and small manufacturers. of the newness and the difference. He has made the popular with N Boutique shoppers, said Lenn Shebar, As a member of Harlem’s Chamber of Commerce and a uptown experience so friendly that customers look for- a former Parsons School of Design staffer who coowns board member for NYC & Co., the city’s offi cial tourism mar- ward to the next visit.” Shoshanna Takes to Airwaves Henri Bendel’s Summer in the City NEW YORK — Henri Bendel has set up Summer Space, a temporary shop on the Fifth Avenue flagship’s third floor earmarked for summer necessities such NEW YORK — Shoshanna Lonstein is gearing up for her on- as books, T-shirts, beach bags, art, cocktails and gifts. air debut. Summer Space has an outpost for Mixed Greens, the Chelsea gallery dedicat- The designer will be serving up variations on the whim- ed to up-and-coming artists. The midtown offshoot will have three exhibitions sical dresses for which she is known when she makes her featuring the work of Leah Tinari, Coke Wisdom O’Neal, Howard Fonda, Rob fi rst appearance Thursday on the TV shopping network Nadeau, Mark Mulroney, Rob Conger and others. Mixed Greens’ specialists will HSN. Designed exclusively for HSN, the 12-piece collec- be on hand to answer questions and to participate in the gallery’s “Collecting tion consists of dresses, cardigans and bikinis that retail 101” workshop, where participants will learn the ins and outs of buying art and from $89 to $210. can pick up tips on start- Items have a similar design sensibility and construc- ing a personal collection. tion to the designer’s signature collection, but the prod- Bendel’s is also set- uct is more basic, said Shari Hayat, vice president of ting up an outpost for Shoshanna. The Future Perfect, Lonstein had been approached “many times” by the Williamsburg’s home shopping network, but was busy with other projects, decor boutique, in the Hayat said. “We felt this was an opportunity to get the Summer Space. Shoppers product out to a different customer base. We get tons of can choose from an eclec- e-mails all the time from customers who want to buy the tic assortment of deco- collection, but they think the prices — especially for the rative housewares and bikinis — are a little too expensive.” gifts, including distinc- While some designers are selling to big-box stores like tive printed wallpapers, Target and Wal-Mart, Shoshanna executives agreed HSN unusual furniture, em- would be a good fi t, Hayat said. broidered pillows and Sue Wong, Nicole Miller, Gloria Vanderbilt and nontraditional tableware Randolph Duke are some of the designer names being — all selected by founder sold on HSN, according to an HSN spokesman. David Alhadeff. “HSN has been working diligently over the past year The Mixed Greens outpost at Henri Bendel. Through an arrange- to broaden its fashion assortment with a mix of fresh ment with Shakespeare new fashion nameplates to meet the demands of our & Co., which is selling books through the Summer Space, book signings and discerning customers. Shoshanna is a talented designer readings will be held there during the shop’s three-month run. Bonnie Fuller, with a unique feminine fl air that we feel will connect with author of “The Joys of Much Too Much,” and Dany Levy, co-author of “Daily our viewers,” he said. Candy A to Z,” have already signed up to make appearances. Other special A dress On Thursday, Lonstein will appear on HSN twice and once events will be held throughout the summer, including exhibition openings for from on its affi liate America’s Store. HSN expects her to return every Mixed Greens artists, musical performances and comedy, through a partnership Shoshanna few months based on the collection’s success, he said. with Williamsburg’s Galapagos Art Space. for HSN. In other company news, last month Shoshanna launched a Less artistic shoppers can kick back in the illy cafe Summer Space Lounge, children’s collection exclusively with Saks Fifth Avenue and an where baristas will be serving complimentary cappuccino, espresso and latte infants’ and children’s swim collection for broader distribution. drinks during select hours Wednesdays through Fridays and on weekends. — R.F. — R.F. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 11 WWD.COM Diamond Politics Usher in New Era

By Jennifer Hirshlag mond mining then and we didn’t know at fi rst what we could do to change the situation. We added our voice NEW YORK — Social responsibility is affecting every to other concerned retailers and were among the very industry, and jewelry is no exception. fi rst companies to support and help work through the The fi ne jewelry business made steps to surmount a Kimberley Process. Meanwhile, that coupled with an- tidal wave of negative publicity and ensure diamonds other ethical issue that came about in the mid-Nineties remained a girl’s best friend in 2003 when its members when we helped to halt the construction of a gold mine helped pass the Kimberley Process Certifi cation Scheme that was going to threaten Yellowstone National Park, to combat blood diamonds. Now the business is attempt- had raised our awareness about the question of the in- ing to make certain everything from the diamonds to tegrity of our supply chain.” the gold and even the coral that goes into creating that Tiffany fi rst invested in a Aber Diamond Corp., which engagement ring or red-carpet necklace comes into this owns a diamond mine in Canada, and now has begun world under improved measures. working directly with cutting and polishing facilities. It And the pressure on the industry isn’t diminish- also refuses to use coral extracted from natural beds in ing. The Kimberley Process is coming up for its three- its pieces so as not to disrupt the environment. year review and nongovernmental organizations that “We took a step back fi ve years ago in thinking about were instrumental in fi rst exposing the links between The Kimberley Process covers this issue and part of the Tiffany brand promise is that diamonds and escalating civil wars in Africa, including diamonds only in their rough form. our customers absolutely expect the precious materials

Partnership Africa Canada, Global Witness and Amnesty CHARLES O’REAR/CORBIS PHOTO BY — whether it’s gemstones or metals — that are used in International, are saying it is still not completely effec- our products are in fact extracted, processed and manu- tive. They are advising third-party audits and other sys- everywhere you turn people are talking about it.” factured in ways that are socially and environmentally tem spot checks to make it more robust. Canadia Diamonds built its company based on news that responsible,” said Kowalski. “Because of our scale and Also, following last year’s Kanye West video for his song came out of Africa in the Nineties, and uses as its primary because we manufacture the majority of the product we titled “Diamonds Are Forever,” which used images such as marketing vehicle the notion of social responsibility. sell, moving back was not as big a challenge for us as it a woman’s hand turning to blood when her suitor placed “I was just a young guy in this industry and wasn’t might be for others.” an engagement ring on it, comes a new potentially con- interested in selling a product that was tainted,” said Cartier also wants to stand behind its brand prom- troversial fi ctional drama called “The Blood Diamond.” Canadia chief executive offi cer Oren Sofer, who helped ise of product excellence, so in The fi lm, which director Edward Zwick began shooting in found the fi rm in 2003 and now distributes diamonds response to concerns about is- February in South Africa and Mozambique with Leonardo loosely and in designed jewelry under a partnership sues facing the business it has DiCaprio, Jennifer Connelly and Djimon Hounsou, is set with Rosy Blue called Tri-Star Worldwide. become a founding member of the against the backdrop of the civil war in Nineties Sierra All Canadia stones bear a brand laser-inscribed Council for Responsible Jewellery Leone and places at the center of its plot a rare rough dia- symbol and a number that enables a buyer to trace Practices. The year-old organiza- mond. The diamond was obtained from mines that were the stone back to its mine of origin in Canada. It tion, according to Frédéric de at that time run by the rebel Revolutionary United Front also guarantees the stone was extracted under strict Narp, Cartier’s North American and used to fund their violent activities, including the kill- laws that seek to protect the diamond workforce, president and ceo, will study the ing of some 50,000 locals and the amputation by machetes mining area’s native people and environment, in- complex diamond and gold supply of the limbs of thousands more. The fi lm is expected to hit cluding recent initiatives to reroute a lake disrupt- chain and isolate ethical, social, theaters in December, just in time for the lucrative holi- ed by mining and protect wildlife like caribou. human rights and environmental day jewelry retail season. “Luxury products have always issues that its members can work Today’s awareness of the dichotomy of the jewelry had origin associated with them,” to address. trade — the ultimate in luxury versus alleged exploitation said Sofer. “Diamonds have been “We want to ensure the entire — can be traced to a small town in central South Africa the only product not to exploit this. industry is working together to- formally known as Kimberley, also called diamond city. If we have the technology to provide ward a shared goal,” said de Narp. It was near there in 1871 that a farmer’s son named this, why can’t we give consumers the De Beers LV’s “Everybody is more sensible now Erasmus Jacobs is said to have found a shiny rock that he option to have the peace of mind to new diamond and a large number of trade associa- became so fascinated by that he hoarded it among his toys, know where a diamond comes from passport tions are playing a crucial role in en- where it remained until a curious neighbor, Schalk van and under what conditions? The big- and Gem gaging its members on these issues.” Niekerk, passed it on to a trader, who in turn passed it on to gest motivator of change for most com- Certifi cation While most experts agree the a geologist. The geologist identifi ed it as the country’s fi rst panies is profi t, but companies like & Assurance industry has put a mammoth ef- diamond, a 21.25-carat stone now known as The Eureka. ours show the consumer response.” Lab’s Source fort forward to make the Kimberley Diamonds had long been mined in India and Brazil, Gem Certifi cation & Assurance Lab Veritas. Process work and regulate the an- but the size of the stone and the subsequent discovery Inc., a New York-based fi rm that authen- nual production of some $11 billion nearby, also by Niekerk, of the rock that would become ticates and grades diamonds, is taking in rough diamonds, some feel more can still be done. the 47.69-carat Star of South Africa changed the scope of Canadia’s identifi cation system one step further. It’s pro- They say movies like “The Blood Diamond” can only diamond mining forever, kicking off a feeding frenzy in posing to distributors to use its Gemprint technology to help to maintain the discussion regarding the issue. Kimberley and raising Africa’s prominence as the pri- take what it calls a diamond’s unique fi ngerprint. This “The Kimberley Process is working, but it’s not over,” mary supplier of the precious gem. fi ngerprint will be incorporated into a document called said Ian Smillie, research coordinator for Partnership But the role of Kimberley in shaping the diamond the Source Veritas Passport that will accompany the Africa Canada, an Ottawa, Canada-based nongovern- business didn’t stop there. Some 130 years later, in re- diamond through to its point of purchase and serve as mental organization. sponse to growing concerns about African warlords ex- a lifetime guarantee that the stone did not come from a While the civil war in Sierra Leone has ended and ploiting the continent’s rich alluvial country involved in civil war. Gem the country is now a part of the Kimberley Process, cache to fund their power struggles, Canadia Diamond’s brand inscription Certifi cation is introducing its new along with some 44 countries worldwide, Smillie said leaders in the diamond industry on the stone, and magnifi ed. system at the JCK jewelry trade show the United Nations Security Council has just put a began meeting in Kimberley to in Las Vegas next month. ban on diamond exports from the Ivory Coast. The devise a way to combat the De Beers LV, a diamond re- Democratic Republic of Congo also continues to be a traffi c of diamonds from tailer established in 2001 problem. Liberia, which has been under an embargo countries such as Sierra in a joint venture between since 2000, now has a new government and they are Leone, Angola and the diamond mining and mar- working to have the embargo lifted. Democratic Republic of keting company De Beers “In the mid-Nineties, we estimated about 15 percent of Congo that were embroiled SA and luxury conglomerate the rough diamond industry involved confl ict diamonds,” in confl ict. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis said Smillie. “Now, we say it’s only four percent and the The result of these meet- Vuitton, is also putting its brand reality is that it’s likely even closer to one percent. But ings was the Kimberley Process promise in writing in a one percent can still fund a lot of guns. If you think about Certifi cation Scheme. The program passport form. Its pass- it, diamonds are the most concentrated form of wealth in comprises an international system of ex- port states that De Beers the world. You could put $1 million worth of diamonds in tensive checks meant to track the origin of diamonds are mined somebody’s shirt pocket. But we are getting the industry to rough diamonds and a resolution that many from areas that aren’t in work on this issue without having to push too hard. They have said kicked off a new era of increased ac- confl ict and that don’t exploit want to fi x it and they see that there are positive things countability and transparency from mine to retail. child labor. The passport will launch worldwide next that can be done. This can turn into a good-news story.” These changes have run from the introduction of month and will accompany any diamond purchase. Corinna Gilfi llan, a lead campaigner of Global Witness, branded diamonds to jewelers founding organizations to “What De Beers wants to do is help the legitimate an NGO based in the U.K., said although a recent poll the serve as a forum for ethical improvements. diamond industry,” said Joan Parker, global communi- organization saw said that only 20 to 25 percent of con- “Sierra Leone was a wake-up call — or whatever you cations director for De Beers LV. “There has been so sumers know about ethical issues surrounding jewelry, wish to call it — that overall [the industry] needed to much focus on the bad that diamonds can do, but there it’s still a sizable amount and will only increase. be more responsible and come up with solutions to is- has been little focus on the good that diamonds can do. “Those brands that are taking that extra step and sues concerning this business,” said Eric Braunwort, Places like Botswana in Africa have a whole economy are able to give consumers a lot of information and as- president of Columbia Gem House, a company that is that is supported by the diamond industry, including surances on where their products are coming from will involved in gemstone mining and cutting, as well as jew- HIV treatments and the building of schools, and if buy- have a big payoff,” she added. elry manufacturing to sell wholesale to North America. ers take the business away from Africa, a lot of people Braunwort of the American Gem Association predicts “People were already starting to move in this direction, there and in other areas like this will suffer. There is a the industry will be completely different even three but the situation in Sierra Leone made it more of a pro- whole other side to the story and we hope the passports years from now as a result of this. tocol and codifi ed it. Jewelry is a magical product, but will help to open up a dialogue.” “This industry is at the peak of the luxury chain and to bring it out on the backs of others doesn’t make it so Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and ceo of Tiffany & we should be held to a higher standard,” said Braunwort. magical. Part of that sparkle is everything that helps to Co., said: “Coming to understand what the issues were “If we are producing a product that isn’t critically neces- get it [to the consumer]. Consequently, the movement to- when reports fi rst started [ of Africa] was a sary to everybody in the world, we should be producing ward change is very much in its infancy right now, but slow evolution. We had such limited exposure to dia- that product in the most beautiful manner possible.” 12 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 WWD.COM Hilfi ger Revamps to Turn Around U.S. Continued from page one team consisting of Gehring, Ludo Onnink, chief operat- Tommy Hilfi ger collection apart from selling it within Hilfiger stores. ing offi cer, and Joe Scirocco, who is continuing as the and Fred Gehring Fred Gehring, the former head of Hilfi ger’s European company’s chief fi nancial offi cer. operations who took over as global chief executive offi cer The business will be supported by three executive of Hilfi ger following the company’s sale to Apax Partners’ vice presidents — namely Avery Baker, who has been funds on May 10, said a reorganization was necessary to in marketing at TH Europe and becomes executive vice restore the position of the Hilfi ger brand in the U.S. president, global communications; Michael Arts, also “One of our fi rst priorities has been to assess our an executive from TH Europe, who will serve as execu- worldwide organization so that we are best positioned tive vice president, global brand management, who will to execute our plans of elevating the Tommy Hilfi ger work closely with designer Tommy Hilfi ger, and Anne brand in the U.S. and capitalizing on the premium posi- Marino, who recently joined the company from Donna tioning that we have built globally,” said Gehring, who Karan International and will be executive vice presi- will continue to be based in Amsterdam while spending dent, global licensing. signifi cant time in the U.S. On an operating level, Gehring will retain the ceo re- Hilfi ger will scale back its U.S. management and sponsibilities for the Tommy Hilfi ger Europe division corporate infrastructure based in New York and New and will assume the same responsibilities for Tommy Jersey, which employs about 800 people in total. In addi- Hilfi ger USA. tion, the company is consolidating management respon- Within the U.S., Allan Zwerner will continue as presi- sibilities in its U.S. wholesale business and eliminating dent of U.S. wholesale and president of the men’s wear some U.S. back-offi ce functions. Executives throughout business. Leslie Singer, formerly president of juniors, all ranks of the company were given notice and sever- has been named president of the women’s wear busi- ance packages in areas such as women’s sales, women’s ness, which will now include women’s and juniors. design, e-commerce, advertising, public relations, legal, Gary Sheinbaum will continue to serve as president operations and human resources. of the U.S. retail business. Marino will also serve as The company said while the U.S. retail and licensing president of U.S. licensing, and Scirocco will serve as businesses have been strong, and the men’s wear divi- chief operating offi cer of Tommy Hilfi ger USA in addi- sion has begun experiencing positive momentum, the tion to his role as group chief fi nancial offi cer. other U.S. wholesale businesses have faced “material In Europe, Daniel Grieder, former senior vice presi- challenges” in recent years. The children’s wear divi- dent of commercial operations, will become chief oper- sion has gone through an extended period of decline ating offi cer, with oversight of wholesale and licensing over several years and will cease activity other than activities, while Onnink will retain his responsibilities within company-owned stores. Junior Jeans will be as cfo, while overseeing all European retail operations folded into the women’s wear division. and development. The H Hilfi ger vertical retail initiative will be dis- One of our fi rst priorities has In Canada, Howard Starr, ceo and president, will continued, and the H staff will be redirected to focus “ continue to oversee the business there. on the development of Hilfi ger’s full-price freestanding been to assess our worldwide The Karl Lagerfeld business, which Hilfi ger acquired retail stores carrying Tommy Hilfi ger items, as well as in December 2004, will continue to be managed by Anne a line of product specifi cally designed for those stores. organization so that we are best Acierno. The H stores will become Tommy Hilfi ger units. The “We see the Karl Lagerfeld business as a very mate- U.S. e-commerce activity will be converted from an in- positioned to execute on our plans rial opportunity,” said Gehring. He said no changes are house setup to an outsourced approach. As the compa- planned in that division, and the focus for now will be on ny becomes a private fi rm, it is also phasing out public of elevating the Tommy Hilfi ger the organizational structure of the Hilfi ger company. company functions, such as investor relations. He said the company will retain its offi ces on West Among some of the high-ranking executives let go brand in the U.S. and capitalizing 26th Street and in New Jersey. Monday were Robert Rosenblatt, chief operating offi - As for Hilfi ger’s design team, he said that there are two cer; James Gallagher, executive vice president, general on the premium positioning that totally independent design teams, one in Europe and one counsel; Rebecca Shafer, executive vice president, mar- in the U.S. “We will make a major effort to step up the keting and brand development, and Theophlius Killion, we have built globally. level of overlap between the two product groups,” said executive vice president, human resources. David Dyer, ” Gehring. “The intention is to harmonize it more. There as reported, left his role as president and ceo upon the — Fred Gehring, Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. will be a mutual exchange of creative ideas. They’re both closing of the company’s sale to Apax. very signifi cant businesses on both sides of the ocean.” As for Hilfi ger’s role, Gehring said, “Tommy will con- activities,” such as TV and fi lm projects. Discussing the closure of the H stores, Gehring said tinue to play an important role in determining the DNA Going forward, Tommy Hilfi ger Corp. will consist the main mission has to be to improve the positioning of of the brand. He won’t be involved in micromanaging of four independently managed business units (U.S.A., the Tommy Hilfi ger label. “H is confusing more than any- decisions, but will be involved in the general direction Canada, Europe and the Far East Buying Offi ces) di- thing. The talent is quite strong and will be much more of the brand. He can combine it with his extracurricular rected and controlled by a small corporate management effective if focused on the Tommy Hilfi ger brand.”

The Chelsea to build a small building. There’s nothing else Arts Tower. in Chelsea like this.” Fashion Scoops A topping-off party for the building will be held tonight at Cheim & Read Gallery — also MORE SPACE: Calvin Klein has another set the work of Gluckman, so guests can see of new digs. The 64-year-old designer just what’s coming on 25th Street. bought into the Chelsea Arts Tower, the 20- story offi ce development at 545 West 25th BEAMING OUT: Karl Lagerfeld, who did an Street, a source said. The building, which is instant Podcast of his signature collection last entirely commercial condominiums located February, is up to his high-tech tricks again — in the heart of the Chelsea galleries, is the this time for Chanel. Last week’s cruise show tallest building in the area at 280 feet (and it at Grand Central Terminal in New York will be will stay that way, since the neighborhood has the subject of a 10-minute documentary that just been rezoned with a height restriction of will be promoted via text messages in France 135 feet). Klein, said the source, nabbed the and online advertising, driving top Chanel 18th fl oor, where spaces sold for prices north clients and fashion fanatics alike to view it on of $4 million. the chanel.com Web site. The building, which is being developed Produced by Mademoiselle Agnes and as a joint venture between Jack Guttman and Loïc Prigent, the fi lm features behind-the- Young Woo Associates, is the work of three scenes preparations for the show, along with architects: Alan Garry of Kossar & Garry is the a healthy dose of irreverence — poking fun, architect of record, while art world favorite for example, at the countless suitcases the Richard Gluckman of Gluckman Maynor designer prepared for his voyage. The fi lm will Architects is responsible for the lobby and be available in French and English on June 3, HOK designed the facade. with subtitled versions in Japanese, Korean Images from Hedi Slimane (top) and Tim Walker. Klein’s neighbors will include the and Chinese to be posted online six days later, Marlborough Gallery, which will move into according to a Chanel spokeswoman. Teaser designer’s picks ranged from Hedi Slimane’s the fi rst two fl oors, while collectors Adam offi ce boasts a terrace. Six fl oors still remain ads are also slated to run on Style.com staring shots of the London rock scene to Tim Lindemann and Glenn Furman took three for prospective buyers, with prices ranging June 15, she added. Walker’s images of an old-fashioned ladies’ fl oors between them. They are expected to from $2.8 million to $3.1 million. dress shop in North London. “Just when you close their deals and begin interior work in When reached for comment, Stuart Siegel BAILEY’S SNAPSHOTS: After cochairing the think you have understood and experienced September, with an eye to opening early of Grubb & Ellis, the exclusive broker for the “Anglomania” gala at the Costume Institute at a part of London, a whole other side of this next year. tower, explained the building was designed the Met earlier this month, Christopher Bailey incredible city reveals itself,” said Bailey. The condominiums, which are sold solely specifi cally with galleries in mind. “We got a isn’t taking it easy. As guest curator of the “The images I have chosen are a refl ection as entire fl oors, range from 4,140 square feet focus group of galleries together to fi nd out Photo London art fair, which was held until of some of the many faces behind this city.” on the lower levels, to 3,540 square feet after what was important to them. We knew that Sunday at London’s Royal Academy of Arts, Works by Sam Taylor Wood, Mary McCartney the fi rst setback, to 3,100 square feet, which galleries and collectors wanted to own their Bailey showcased the images that represent Donald and Wolfgang Tillmans were also part of is the size Klein selected. While smaller, his own space, but it had become too expensive his myriad inspirations in the city. The Bailey’s show. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 13 WWD.COM

FAIR-Y TALES: Whatever Forty Five Ten Readies for Barneys Michael Roberts’ workload was as fashion director of MEMO PAD The New Yorker, he seems Inside Forty Five Ten. to have at least tripled it since taking on the role of fashion and style director of Vanity Fair. In his fi rst month on the job, Roberts has sent tremors through the magazine’s fashion department, prompting title changes and reshoots for two upcoming potential covers — one with Sandra Bullock and one with — according to sources with close ties to Vanity Fair, and at two competing titles. A Vanity Fair spokeswoman said, “We just don’t comment on covers,” but the sources said Patrick Demarchelier was called in to shoot Swank after earlier photos of her taken by Mario Testino came in looking “too harsh, and not sexy or summery enough” for editors. Meanwhile, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Vanity Fair’s fashion director since 1994, and a longtime friend of Roberts, no longer holds that title and will now be fashion and style director at large, the spokeswoman confi rmed Monday. Though Saltzman has been based in London for several years, and until recently shared her title with Anne McNally, her shift to at-large status is expected to have some fallout. “It’s inevitable that feathers will Sandra be ruffl ed in a situation like this,” said an editor PHOTOS BY TIM BOOLE PHOTOS BY Bullock who knows Saltzman and Roberts, “but hiring By Holly Haber tive,’’ Musselman said. “We’ve come to the middle. SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY Michael was the best thing [Vanity Fair] could have I would have all the wildest things in the world, done. He has the right instincts, and he obviously has the right taste.” DALLAS — Forty Five Ten, an independent retail- and I love creativity and beauty, and Brian says, Alexis Bryan, daughter of Shelby Bryan, the companion of Vogue er here that prides itself on ahead-of-the-curve ‘Yes, but who is going to buy that?’” editor in chief Anna Wintour, is also getting a title change. Bryan, chic in a fashion-conscious market, is about to Dallas tends to embrace big shifts in fashion currently listed as fashion and jewelry editor, has been promoted face its biggest test. about a year later than New York or Los Angeles, to executive fashion editor. “She’s a great representative for the Barneys New York is opening an 88,000-square- Musselman noted. magazine,” said one person who has dealt with her. “People have foot fl agship about 3 miles away in NorthPark “There’s a fi ne line between edgy and commer- high hopes for her.” — Sara James Center on Sept. 29, the luxury chain’s fi rst foray cial,” Bolke said. “We’ll look at three to four new into Dallas since 1997. collections a season, and sometimes we have to HALF EMPTY: There’s more bad news than good in the magazine “We’ve got to mind our own busi- wait until they are ready for it.” advertising data for the fi rst half of 2006 published in this week’s ness and stay focused on us, because His partner explained, “It trickles Media Industry Newsletter. For the most part, the major fashion it seems to be working,” co-owner down from both coasts for us…. They and lifestyle monthlies muddled through the half, either down a few Shelley Musselman said. “We’re very have to see people wearing it and percentage points or, somewhat less frequently, up a few points. calm now, but when we fi rst heard walking down the street and in the One notable exception was Living, which was up about [Barneys] we almost needed magazines.” 74.3 percent, with 586 pages through June. (Everyday Food, smelling salts.” She and Bolke still keep an eye another Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia title, was also way up, The jolt stemmed partly from an on emerging designers. They picked with 253.4 pages, a 25.7 percent rise.) Elle (979.8 pages, up 13.6 overlap in labels. Seventy percent of up Proenza Schouler, for instance, percent), Esquire (495.5 pages, up 15.9 percent) and Teen Vogue Forty Five Ten’s fashion resources “when nobody else [in Dallas] wanted (484.7 pages, up 12.1 percent) were all double-digit gainers. are exclusive in Dallas, but some, it,” Bolke said. Elsewhere in the core fashion category, Vogue was up 4.7 including Narciso Rodriguez, Martin Heidi Dillon, a regular customer percent, to 1,252.4 pages; W was up 2.3 percent, to 824.5 pages, Margiela, Commes des Garçons, Rick who also shops at other luxury stores and Harper’s Bazaar was up 3.5 percent, to 720.8 pages. Owens and Yohji Yamamoto, will also here and in New York, said, “They have On the negative side of the divide were Maxim (394.6 pages, hang in the new Barneys. In addition, such a great variety, and there is always down 15.7 percent), Men’s Health (436.7 pages, down 14.3 Scoop and Intermix are set to open something new and wonderful.” percent), Teen People (305.8 pages, down 13.6 percent); Vanity here in the fall. Dillon is one of the store’s 110 core Fair (789.2 pages, down 15.7 percent); Seventeen, down 2.5 “The whole level of customers, wealthy percent, to 441.8 pages, and In Style, down 2.5 percent, to retail in this city is going women whose cell 1,603.4 pages. One of the biggest drops was at Jane, where, to go up a big notch, and phone numbers are on despite improved newsstand sales, pages fell 41 percent, to 235.8. it was a very high bar to file. Bolke furnishes Vogue, Teen Vogue, Jane, W and Vanity Fair all are owned by begin with,” co-owner fl owers to some of their Condé Nast Publications, parent of WWD. — Jeff Bercovici Brian Bolke said. homes, giving him in- Forty Five Ten, sight into their tastes named for its location at and lifestyle that helps Obituary 4510 McKinney Avenue, with buying. He and has carved a niche Musselman said they since opening in 2000 don’t buy any special with a mix of women’s pieces of designer cloth- Corinne Coombe, Retail Veteran fashion, accessories, ing unless they have a NEW YORK — Corinne Coombe, manager of women’s ready- jewelry, home furnish- specifi c customer for it. a veteran of luxury retail and to-wear and children’ at Saks ings, apothecary prod- In addition to de- fashion firms who was instru- Fifth Avenue, who worked with ucts and a small men’s signer collections with mental in the rise of Bergdorf Coombe at Bergdorf ’s. “She business. Fashion, ac- Brian Bolke and Shelley Musselman (top) and the exterior narrow distribution, Goodman in the Eighties, died was an instrumental part of the cessories, jewelry and of Forty Five Ten. such as Alberta Ferretti, Thursday at Memorial Sloan- building process at Bergdorf ’s.” shoes account for 60 Stella McCartney and Kettering Cancer Center here. In the late Seventies, Coombe percent of the store’s $5 million annual revenue, Dries Van Noten, Forty Five Ten keeps its inven- She died of an infection after worked at the former B. Altman, Bolke said. tory unique with a private label line by Velvet that surgery at the hospital, said her where she was a dmm of rtw. The 8,800-square-foot store is light on suits, has been carefully developed to work with designer husband, Roger, who declined Mello and Neimark also worked black-tie and corporate gear in favor of an artistic pieces. In September, the store will introduce an to disclose her age. “She was a at Altman’s, and they recruited perspective on dressing. It indulges the whimsi- exclusive loungewear line by DKNY. very private lady,” he said. her after moving on to Bergdorf cal, such as a $2,085 Moschino Signature trench- Still, Bolke and Musselman see contemporary Coombe was part of the Goodman. coat with a jump-rope belt, and is heavier in styles fashion as a separate business and avoid most team that transformed Bergdorf Among her other jobs in the with elegant detailing, like a $3,800 embroidered of those resources. They fi ll the need for “car- Goodman into one of the world’s luxury arena, Coombe served black full skirt by Alexander McQueen. Forty Five pool clothes” with Kristensen du Nord, which leading luxury emporiums in the as executive vice president and Ten stocks only one of such extravagant pieces so often sells out before it hits the fl oor, Jarbo and A Eighties and a magnet for design- director of merchandising for its customers can be reasonably confi dent they Common Thread by Rozae Nichols. er collections. She worked closely Gucci America, president of won’t see duplicates around town. The store also has fashion-forward jewelry with with Ira Neimark, who was chief Gianfranco Ferré USA and presi- “Most people who shop here have fi ve of every- an emphasis on 18-karat gold, featuring styles by executive offi cer, and Dawn Mello, dent of Baccarat in the U.S., from thing, so when they buy something it is because Julie Baker, Ippolita, Irene Neuwirth and Suzanne the store’s former president. which she retired in 2002. they are so taken with it — the fabric or construc- Wilson. A smattering of handbags comes from VBH, Coombe served as general mer- She was a native of San tion or color or whatever,” Musselman said. Alexandra Knight and Henry Beguelin. chandise manager for the store, Francisco and had worked at the Bolke and Musselman are an unusual team. When the store opened, the women’s fashion with all of the divisional merchan- former I. Magnin chain before Bolke, 37, owns one if the city’s top florists, wasn’t as focused, and several departments, such dise managers reporting to her. relocating to . Avant Garden, and worked in store planning as jewelry, were leased. Gradually, the leased de- “She had a remarkable tal- In addition to her hus- for Neiman’s and I. Magnin in San Francisco. partments were eliminated, and the store began ent for merchandising with an band, Coombe is survived by Musselman, 54, is a former model and mother of to have a narrower point of view. Sept. 11 was a unusual understanding of the three sisters, Veronica, Agnes four whose husband has an oil exploration and turning point. luxury business,” said Mello, and Cassandra; two brothers, drilling company. Musselman was invited to invest “We were afraid to have a store full of uber-ex- who was also a friend. Thomas and David, as well as in and manage the fashion business as the store pensive, really weird clothing that needed a lot of “Corinne had incredible six nieces and nephews. Burial was established by Bolke and Bill Mackin, who explaining,” Musselman recalled. “But we looked standards, great taste and amaz- today will be private. A memori- left two years ago to become creative director for back and realized everything that was selling was ing sense of style,” said Joseph al service is scheduled for June home at Neiman Marcus. the most expensive…. We said, ‘If we go down, Boitano, senior vice presi- 22. Details will be announced. “I’m real out there, and he’s more conserva- let’s do it in glory.’’’ dent and general merchandise — David Moin 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006

For Space in Garment Center Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 212-880-0410 International Luxury Women’s Ready-To-Wear Collection Search For Space In Garment Center Seeks highly motivated, creative professionals to participate in the Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee www.midcomre.com rapid growth of the retail and wholesale divisions. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Senior Account Executive Must have current relationships with specialty & department stores. Showrooms & Lofts 5+ yrs exp in the sales & account maintenance of designer/luxury brands. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Excellent analytical and sales presentation skills required. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Director of Luxury Retail Design Hell..p! Responsible for maintaining the global merchandising standards and busi- Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built "Digital Arts Boot Camp" ness development of Ports 1961 corporate boutiques worldwide. 8 + yrs Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 buying/merchandising experience with multi store luxury brands required. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Photoshop & Illustrator Custom classes tailored to MBA in Business or International Commerce a plus. your design specialization Receptionist Must have a polished professional style for managing all front desk activi- Call: 212-244-1435 ties, including welcoming guests, answering calls, managing the daily flow of shipments, and maintaining the general appearance of our showroom.

W 39-Broadway Forward resume and cover letter to: Full Floor [email protected] / Fax: 212.414.1053 4600 SF. Will divide Admin Since 1967 Showrooms/Offices W-I-N-S-T-O-N GREAT LIGHT APPAREL STAFFING Available Immediately DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Louis Zimbaro VP 212 889 7460 ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Joseph P. Day Realty Corp. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 APPAREL JOBS •Designers/Assistant Designers- 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals Boys 2/20 3)Designers-assoc-assist.boy-girl-YG men-Jr •Account Executives- Girls 4-14 Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) /Women’s Luxury RTW/Handbags •Production Managers-experienced, ASSISTANT DESIGNER fluent in Chinese. Leading better separates co. looking for organized, motivated, creative firecracker •Sourcing Assistants-must speak willing to do whatever it takes. Must Chinese 45-55K have 2 yrs exp working with China, •Assistant Buyers-Luxury Brand Independent Domestic MFR. drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical packages, EMB layouts. Call Ms. Storm at 212-878-2000 seeking showroom space to share Fax / Email to: 212-949-3928 Call (201) 349-4171 Fax resume to: 212-302-3872 / Natasha [email protected] Assoc Designer $55K DESIGNER SAMPLE SALE Wovens Flat Sketch, Vertical Retail [email protected] 212-947-3400 We are currently seeking an experi- UNDERWEAR & UNDERPINNINGS enced childrenswear designer for LOUNGEWEAR, SLEEPWEAR AND private label and jeans wear ROBES FOR MEN AND WOMEN ASSOC DESIGNERS Moderate to Better Mfr company. MAY 25TH 8 A.M. TO 6 P.M. *Sweater-Flat Sketch/Tech Pac $50-60K Successful candidate will have MAY 26TH 8:30 A.M. TO 2 P.M. [email protected] 212-947-3400 excellent organizational & commu- 40 EAST 34TH ST. SUITE 207 nication skills. Must be a team player, creative, and fluent in Bernardo Fashions Illustrator and Photoshop. Entry Level position/ Receptionist/manage showroom/work Fax resumes Attn: LV to: with magazine editors/in house design- [email protected] Interested in Producing ers. Must have a neat, professional Your Line Offshore? appearance and great personality. DIGITAL COLORISTS Consider BALI. Several mfrs. seeking Contact: [email protected] or Digital fabric printing service studio new clients. Primary production is call 212 594 3900 ext 201 seeks experienced senior level digital better casual women’s wear. Also designer. Must be able to color match eveningwear, swimwear, children’s & INDULGE CAD/U4ia $59K digitally. Qualified candidate must have men’s. Low MOQs. Free consultation, FOR EMERGING DESIGNERS Assist CAD $35-40K experience in digital design and textile E-mail Canadian consultant - Showcase your designs in SOHO [email protected] 212-947-3400 production. Must be detail oriented with [email protected] Your own retail space on Greene St excellent follow up and communication Great exposure among Fashion Greats skills. Knowledge of Photoshop and Chargeback Manager Illustrator a must. Please fax resume and Womens, Mens, Accessories, Lifestyle Great oppty for a take charge/hands on For more info please check our website salary requirements to: (845) 265-3993 indiv as a Chargeback Manager for or E-mail: [email protected] www.indulge-soho.com or contact womens dress importer. Multi divisional Derek or Emir 212-644-3744 NY location: 2:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. co. needs exp. & aggressive indiv. to LA location: 9:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. manage, collect, & prevent chargebacks from occuring. Our co. sells to all dept & specialty stores. Located in Kearny,NJ. Reply to: [email protected] Merchandiser/Designer Create/Merchandise/Design your line. COLORIST $50-60K DIRECTOR of Illustrator/Photoshop savvy. Color Palettes Boards. Work Call 917.689.4420 On Pointcarre & Colormatters Marketing & Creative Established designer, handbag and [email protected] 212-947-3400 Berlin, MD; South Moon Under is cur- accessory company with strong follow- rently seeking a full-time Director of ing looking to sell or merge with larger Couture Samplemaker Marketing & Creative. Fashion industry PATTERN/SAMPLES accessory comapny. Highly experienced in luxury exp preferred. We offer a competitive Contact: 212-465-9247 evening wear. Cutting and draping compensation & benefits package. Pls Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast a plus. Call: (212) 760-2570 Fax resume: 410-641-3725, attn: Jen Muse work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 or E-mail: [email protected] Design See full job description at www.southmoonunder.com PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Administrative Design Asst. EXP’D PRODUCTION All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Strong administrative & organizational MANAGER Call Sherry 212-719-0622. skills necessary to support fast paced Women’s designer apparel company design team including knowledge of seeks self motivated individual with garment construction and styling. min. 5 yrs. experience to oversee PATTERNS, SAMPLES, FASHION RESUMES Must have comprehensive knowledge sample/production facility. Excellent Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail of Excel, MS Word & Adobe Photoshop. technical skills and complete responsibility PRODUCTIONS Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Great opportunity for an entry level of production process from order Full service shop to the trade. GILBERT CAREER RESUMES position in the fashion industry. placement through shipping. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Email cover letter and resume to: Send resume to [email protected] fashionresumes.com [email protected] or fax to 212-246-8617 DESIGN ASSISTANT Fabric Research/ PART TIME - 32 HOURS Sleepwear company seeks self starter Development who can multi-task. Must have excellent Women’s Designer Sportswear hand sketching & board preparation 2-5 yrs exp. Strong background in abilities. Good communication skills fabric development and knowledge of & knowledge of CAD computer. Domestic and European Mills. Mail Please fax resume to: (212) 532-8861 res. with sal. req. to: Box#M 1020 c/o Fairchild Classified 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl DESIGNER $75K+ New York, NY 10017 Men’s Better Performance Wear [email protected] Fabric Sourcing Assistant Missy Sportswear Division. Research Designer- Girls & Boys fabs (85% woven cotton based) for fwd Well est’d & fast growing childrens co. seasons & maintain records of fab dtls seeks highly qualified individual to /costs/swatches. Req’s good aesthetic head our design dept. must be exp’d in eye, detailed oriented, organizational all phases of design including knowl- & interpersonal skills, room to grow edge of specs. Photoshop & Illustrator within company. Previous 2/3 yrs. exp. a must. Great opportunity. preferred. Fax resume to: (212) 768-8873 Fax resume to: 212-302-2669 or Email: [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 23, 2006 15 WWD.COM Innovation Abounds at Luxe Pack Conference NEW YORK — Attendees at this year’s Luxe Pack New Creating emotions for the consumer via new prod- York packaging show have developed a new attitude ucts and ideas was discussed on the second day of the — toward innovations and marketing concepts. conference in a seminar entitled “Emotional Branding,” “What’s new?” was overheard as the prevail- conducted by Gobé. ing theme among the 1,503 visitors to the show at the “It’s an important manifestation to create emotion in Metropolitan Pavilion here, which included 75 exhibi- people,” Gobé said. “At the end of the day, it’s really our tors featuring the newest innovations in cosmetics and emotions that are driving the purchase.” fragrance packaging. Next year’s Luxe Pack New York will be held May 23 “This is one of the most interesting groups of people,” and 24. A Luxe Pack Shanghai event is being planned said Marc Gobé, chairman and chief executive offi cer of for next year, Czajka said. the design and branding consultancy fi rm Desgrippes — Andrea Arterbery Gobé. “It’s a hotbed of innovation.” Now in its fourth year, Luxe Pack New York is put on by Indice Monaco, the organizer of Luxe Pack Monaco and Luxe Pack Brazil. Parfums d’Image Sees Large Sales Rise “Luxe Pack is becoming more and more the place to PARIS — Parfums d’Image, the French beauty manu- be for luxury packag- François Sabaté, Betsy Schmalz, Joe Faranda, Pat Saxby facturer, has reported a 145 percent jump in first-half ing [suppliers],” said and Marc Rosen. sales to 6.6 million euros, or $7.9 million at average ex- Luxe Pack president change, for the period ended March 31, year-on-year. BEAUTY BEAT Christophe Czajka. divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics and fra- The Levallois-Perret, France-based firm, which was “We are always look- grance at Bergdorf Goodman, and François Sabaté, floated on the Paris stock exchange in February, said ing for people with innovative ideas.” president of Pochet of America. organic growth, excluding its acquisition of Groupe Lys, From a faux-diamond-encrusted bottle of the fra- “The obsession for newness has created an environ- stood at 66 percent. Parfums d’Image acquired Groupe grance Fantasy by pop star Britney Spears, to the light- ment of creativity,” Schmalz said. “The [beauty] industry Lys, a French manufacturer of promotional gifts and up bottles of nail polish, mascara and lipstick of Robert is in a frenzy to fi nd the newest innovations and ingredi- cosmetics, in 2005. Du Grenier, innovations in packaging design abounded ents. Package suppliers are encouraged to come up with On the back of that strong performance, Parfums at the conference. new ways to decorate bottles.” d’Image raised its current fi scal-year sales forecast to But is new always good for the fragrance and packag- Noting that now is the “age of the consumer,” Schmalz 20 million euros, or $25.6 million at current exchange, ing industry? said that creativity and fl exibility are required to win. up from 18.5 million euros, or $23.7 million. That would This concept was explored in a panel discussion en- “Cosmetics lines can’t just rely simply on new color mean a 53 percent spike year-on-year. The fi rm said in a titled “What’s New: Is It Cutting Edge or Cannibalizing palettes anymore,” she said. statement that its revenue was spurred by development in Brands?” and moderated by Marc Rosen, president of Faranda echoed Schmalz, saying that the life cycles Asia, notably in China, plus its car fragrances business. Marc Rosen and Associates. The four-person panel in- for products are getting shorter and shorter every year. Parfums d’Image produces private-label beauty prod- cluded Betsy Schmalz, executive vice president of cre- “We must create excitement for the consumers,” he ucts for clients including Wal-Mart-owned Asda in the ative and technological innovation for Beauty Avenues said. “We must make sure that the products are truly U.K. and French perfumery chain Nocibé. It also makes at Limited Brands, and Joe Faranda, vice president innovative and differentiated. We really need to under- fragrances for companies such as car manufacturer of marketing for International Flavors & Fragrances. stand the consumer and what drives her passion. This Citroën and fashion label Laura Ashley. Also on the panel were Pat Saxby, vice president and will help us as marketers to create enduring desire.” — Ellen Groves

GRAPHIC ARTISTS ALL LEVELS/PRODUCTS PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Tech Designer $55K [email protected] Luxury Handbag Co. seeks a Production Sleepwear/Daywear 800-544-5878 Assistant with a minimum of 2 years [email protected] 212-947-3400 production experience in accessories or Graphic Artists - Sleepwear garment. Bilingual is not required but a PLUS (Korean, Spanish or Italian). Tech Designer to $65K. Currrent exp Leading Women’s Sleepwear Company Must be extremely organized, detail- Leather Handbags seeking Graphic/Cad artists with 3-5 in JR cut and sewn tops. Specking gar- SALES AGENTS Sourcing & Production oriented, and independent, with a strong ments, sending packages to far east. Strong connections of over 20 years yrs experience in Junior, Missy and desire to work and learn in the Fashion Indian supplier of leather garments, Better sleepwear. Must be highly crea- Deal with buyers on private label specs. bags & accessories seeks Sales Agents available for sourcing. Textile & related Industry. Fax (AFTER 5PM ONLY) or Midtown Co. call 973-564-9236 AGCY products from Chiona, India, and more!!! tive, able to design original prints / E-mail resume and cover letter to: for procuring business from reputed embroideries / appliques & flat sketch. American brands, store chains etc. Knowledge of language and business Must be proficient in Illustrator and 212-629-3212 culture. Seeking full-time position in [email protected] Interested candidates may meet Mr. Photoshop. Good sense of trend and Tech Spec/Technical NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Narinder Singh Punihani in New York Sourcing/Production for Home Fashions / color. High paced environment. Need Design Childrenswear from June 12 - June 14. Fix appoint- Textile / Apparel Comprehensive product a team player who is flexible. Please Production Asst. Leading international luxury ment by e-mail at: knowledge. Formerly with Crosill Home e-mail resume & salary requirements to: Accessory Importer seeks highly Individual with min. 2 yrs exp. Must be Fashions, Capital Mercyury, and Mast able to develop new specs, full graded [email protected] or [email protected] organized, detailed individual to help childrenswear brand seeks exp’d CALL: +91-9811024591 or Industries. Willing to travel. Will provide & handle; accounting dept, EDI, ship- specs, do fit approvals & comments. references upon request. Please contact Should be able to make & correct paper & dynamic National Sales Manager FAX: +91-11-41610801/02 Mens Designer $120K ping, traffic/customs. Great opportunity Visit us at: www.punihani.com Raghi by phone or E-mail at: for the right candidate. Must have 3 patterns- Computer skills a must. to manage New York wholesale 914-345-3166 / [email protected] Cut & Sew Knits. Sports Shirts. Fax resume to 212-967-7494 Excellent Growth Opportunities! [email protected] 212-947-3400 years experience in this field. Please email to: Attn: Marylyn team. Must have a minimum of [email protected] 3-5 yrs. exp. in the children’s or MINNESOTA RELO Technical Production * Senior Product Mgr $140K Production Asst/Coord contemporary women’s market * Product Manager $110K Private Label Children’s Wear Importer Person / Sweaters & an appreciation of luxury goods. [email protected] 212-947-3400 seeks aggressive detailed & exp’d asst Well established Sweater co. seeks Strong supervision, communication to commun w/ overseas factories. motivated, experienced technical PATTERNMAKER Knowledge of C.T.L. Wal-Mart appro- production person. Responsibilities and organizational skills required. Couture Co. seeks experienced, well val process a must. M.T.L. Target include: prod specs, prod fittings, prod French language skills and organized team player with backroom approval process a +. Excel a must, l/d’s, dye lot & shade band approvals. responsibilities. Able to create from AS400 helpful. Excellent benefits. Fax Follow up w/ overseas and domestic established relationships with top sketch thru finish. Fax Resume: Marie resume w/sal req 212-868-3167 prod fit smpls. Must be organized, department and specialty stores 212-481-1968 detail oriented and able to go with the flow. A fabulous growth opportunity a plus. Please e-mail resume for the right person. Will work directly Product Development Asst Production Coordinator with Production Coordinator. Queens and salary requirements to: Intimate Apparel Co has exciting Fast paced Childrens Importer seeks location. Min 1 yrs experience. [email protected] opportunity. Will be responsible for re- indiv. with 5+ years garment importing E-mail resume to Lisa at : questing and auditing Finished Goods expr. from Asia. Must have good com- [email protected] Production. Must be able to spec out munication skills, be detail oriented & garments; have a good understanding organized. Daily order follow up with of methods of measurement and overseas suppliers on all order details. SHOWROOM SALES REP sewing construction and be able to Excellent computer skills a must. Downtown showroom seeks a motivated, interact w/ all departments in-house Fax or e-mail resume to: stylish Sales Rep for Men’s & Women’s and overseas manufacturing. Strong 212-658-9149 / [email protected] contemporary lines. Candidate should computer spec database skills req’d. have 1-3 years fashion showroom experi- Must be able to handle multiple task ence and a strong sense of style. Contacts and prioritize workload. Please e-mail w/Specialty Boutique & Dept. Stores is resume & salary requirements to PRODUCTION MGR. BARBARA KOTO preferred. Excellent organizational & [email protected] or fax, Attn Jen: Legwear co seeks a strong production Creative couture knitwear firm seeks communication skills a must. Competitive (212) 842-4030. EOE. person to handle heavy daily follow up Salesperson for custom clothing line salary w/health insurance. Please E-mail with factories, tracking orders, color preferred exp. with Carlisle, Worth, resume to: [email protected] approval, sample approval. E-mail re- Doncaster, Juliana, or Dunollie Looms. sume to [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 997-7744 or Email: [email protected] SEWER Woman’s couture company seeks highly SALES ASSISTANT skilled exp’d individual. Knowledge of all Leading Childrenswear company seeks types of fabrics. Emphasis on evening. organized, detail-oriented sales assistant. Cutting a plus . Call 212-869-2296 Must have experience with the big retail LUXURY RETAIL SALES chains and knowledgeable in all compu- Modern luxury RTW and lingerie Soho ter basic programs such as Word/Excel. shop seeks self-motivated pro w/ 5+ yrs. SR TD MENSWEAR $110K Retaillink & workbench experience a +. in luxury mkt. w/ client list to increase Outerwear Shirts, Leather, Coats Fax resume to 212-967-7494 sales. High Commission based salary. [email protected] 212-947-3400 Attn: Lauren Contact: [email protected] Checking Checking In Out

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