WINTER 2015 OCEANA.ORG

THE WYSS FOUNDATION TAKES OCEANA TO CANADA AND PERU

PLUS: OCEANA’S SHRIMP FRAUD REPORT | Q&A WITH MARIA DAMANAKI | SAVING TURTLES Protecting the World’s Oceans

BOARD OF DIRECTORS OCEANA Vice President, U.S. Oceans Simon Sidamon-Eristoff, Chair Chief Executive Officer Jacqueline Savitz Valarie Van Cleave, Vice Chair Andrew Sharpless Vice President, Brazil Secretary James Sandler, President Monica Brick Peres, Ph.D. Treasurer María Eugenia Girón, James Simon Keith Addis, President Vice President, Philippines Herbert M. Bedolfe III Chief Scientist & Strategy Officer Gloria Estenzo Ramos, J.D. Ted Danson Michael Hirshfield, Ph.D. Deputy Vice President, U.S. Pacific Sydney Davis Senior Vice President & Executive Susan Murray César Gaviria Director, Europe Vice President, Global Development Loic Gouzer Lasse Gustavsson Bettina Alonso Stephen P. McAllister Senior Vice President, Michael Northrop Chief of Staff Strategic Marketing & Communications Dr. Kristian Parker Courtney Sakai Matthew Littlejohn Dr. Chief Financial Officer Vice President, Andean and Caribbean Regions Susan Rockefeller Chris Sharkey Heather Stevens Alex Muñoz Senior Advisor Diana Thomson Vice President, Belize Xavier Pastor Rogier van Vliet Janelle Chanona Sam Waterston

OCEAN COUNCIL Slane Holland Lightburne Susan Rockefeller, Chair Carey Hotchkis

Julie Tauber McMahon, Vice Chair Hardy Jones EDITORIAL STAFF Violaine Bernbach Angela and J. Stephen Kilcullen Editor Carolyn Marks Blackwood Arlene and Robert Kogod Justine E. Hausheer Keely and Pierce Brosnan Eve Kornyei Ruffatto Assistant Editor Deborah Buck Willa and Ted Lutz Brianna Elliott Amy and Gary Churgin Dede McMahon Barbara and Bertram Cohn Tiffany Moller Designer Ann Colley Aaron Peirsol Jenn Hueting Sydney and Andrew Davis Nicole Polizois Michael Dershewitz Anne Alexander Rowley Barbara Ettinger and Sven Huseby Andrew Sabin Lise Evans Jennifer Small and Adam Wolfensohn Christina Falco and Michael Frumkin Kelly T. Smith Joanna and Brian Fisher Danielle Steakley Kelsey Grammer Sutton Stracke Marjorie R. Harris Susan Trees Julie Hill Toby Usnik

Oceana is published by Oceana Inc. For questions or comments about Oceana, or to subscribe to Oceana, please call Oceana’s membership OCEANA is the largest international advocacy department at +1.202.833.3900, e-mail [email protected] organization focused solely on ocean conservation. or write Oceana, Member Services, 1350 Connecticut Ave. NW, We run science-based campaigns and seek to win 5th Floor, Washington, D.C. 20036, USA. policy victories that can restore ocean biodiversity and ensure that the oceans are abundant and can feed Oceana’s Privacy Policy Your right to privacy is important to Oceana, and we hundreds of millions of people. Oceana victories have are committed to maintaining your trust. Personal information (such as name, already helped to create policies that could increase address, phone number, e-mail) includes data that you may have provided fish populations in its countries by as much as 40 to us when making a donation or taking action as a Wavemaker on behalf of percent and that have protected more than 1 million the oceans. This personal information is stored in a secure location. For our full square miles of ocean. We have campaign offices in privacy policy, please visit Oceana.org/privacypolicy. the countries that control close to 25 percent of the world’s wild fish catch, including in North, South and Please recycle. Central America, Asia, and Europe. To learn more, please visit www.oceana.org. Printed with Eco-Ink — low volatility vegetable oil-based ink on 25% post-consumer recycled, processed chlorine free paper produced using 100% wind power in a carbon neutral process. 1

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ON THE COVER: 6 Hansjörg Wyss of the Wyss Foundation DEPARTMENTS 1 CEO’S NOTE Counterintuitive Conservation 2 MAKING WAVES Bottom protections in Portugal and mercury-free chlorine plants.

FEATURES 4 NEWS & NOTES Antibiotics in Chile, Austin Nichols goes shark tagging, and a FOR FORTY 6 The Wyss Foundation fraud map. takes Oceana to Canada and Peru 5 Q&A Paul Greenberg, author of American 10 SAFEGUARDING SEA TURTLES New Catch protections for loggerheads in US waters 18 FISH TALE Chesapeake Bay striped bass THE TRUTH ABOUT SHRIMP A new report 13 EVENTS SeaChange Summer Party and reveals widespread seafood fraud in US 19 promoting The Perfect Protein shrimp

SUPPORTER SPOTLIGHT Hansjörg Wyss of Q&A WITH MARIA DAMANAKI 21 15 European the Wyss Foundation Commissioner for Maritime Affairs and 22 CHEF’S CORNER Sam Talbot’s smoked sardines with heirloom tomatoes and herbs 17 ASK DR. PAULY What is so good about mussels and oysters? 23 PARTING SHOT Philippine fishermen in the Tañon Straight Give Today Oceana’s accomplishments wouldn’t be possible without the support of its members. You can help Oceana campaign to restore our oceans with your financial contribution.

Call us today at 1.877.7.OCEANA, visit www.oceana.org/give or use the envelope provided Protecting the in this magazine to make a donation. Please contact us if you are interested in planned World’s Oceans giving that could support Oceana’s work and also provide you with income and potential tax benefits. Oceana is a 501(c)(3) organization and contributions are tax deductible.

4 | FALL/WINTER 2012 CEO’S LETTER

Counterintuitive Conservation

“A medieval is said to have but farming. Put very simply, that’s because • Portuguese protection of more than 2 million hauled up a 3-foot-long cod, which was we cut down the forest — the biodiverse place square kilometers from common enough at the time. And the fact where wildlife thrive — to plant cornfields. • Adoption by Chile of a comprehensive na- that the cod could talk was not especially sur- And the most intensive form of agriculture is tional plan to stop illegal fishing prising. But what was astonishing was that it livestock production. So if you’re going to feed • Creation by the U.S. of the largest protected spoke an unknown language. It spoke Basque.” a planet headed for 9 billion people by 2050 — ocean and beach zone to benefit loggerhead two China’s worth larger than right now — and turtles So begins Mark Kurlansky’s wonderful book you want to protect life on the land, you need • Establishment by President Obama of a task on the history of a fish that has long helped the oceans to be feeding as many people as force charged with developing national rules feed the world. possible. to prevent the sale of black market fish

Last summer I was invited to appear on CBS If you’re happy that the U.S. was the first coun- In addition to these policy advances, Oceana This Morning, the live national morning news try in the world to create a system of national continues to grow organizationally. Thanks and talk show out of New York City. As prom- parks, championed by that great Republican to the Wyss Foundation and several other ised by the producer, they picked me up at the conservationist and livestock rancher Teddy generous Canadian and American donors, hotel in midtown before dawn, and before long Roosevelt, then consider what you’re doing we are delighted to report that we have now they had draped me in a bib, and the makeup for the land by saving the oceans. While some raised nearly all the funds required to sustain lady was vigorously rubbing rouge on my cattle ranches are beautiful places — like an Oceana campaign team in Canada for five very pale cheeks. About three minutes before the one I saw on my drive in Montana — to years. The Wyss Foundation’s generous chal- air time, Gayle King, who co-hosts the show, produce beef equal to the ocean fish the world lenge grant for Peru brings us close to the start greeted me. Notes in her hand, she peered eats every day, we’d need to develop an area of policy campaign operations in that country, quizzically at me over her reading glasses and equal to Kentucky, Indiana, Maine, South the most important fishing nation in the world, said “I don’t get it. You want to save the fish so Carolina, West Virginia, Maryland, Vermont, from whose waters more than 12 percent of that we can eat them?” New Hampshire, Massachusetts, New Jersey, the world’s wild ocean fish catch by weight Hawaii, Connecticut, Delaware and Rhode come every year. And our feasibility study of It’s not as surprising as a Basque-fluent fish, . Combined. Mexico reveals a good opportunity for improv- but it does indeed seem counterintuitive. You, ing ocean abundance, so we are now seeking of course, know the answer. The ocean is like Or to put it in terms that President Roosevelt to raise the funds necessary to establish a a bank account or an investment fund. Build would appreciate, not one, not two, not 10, not Mexican campaign team. it up, and we can live very well off its interest 25, but 68 Yellowstone National Parks. and dividends. But deplete the principal, and As a loyal supporter of Oceana, your support, we are headed for inevitable crisis. The really good news is that we know what energy and generosity have allowed us to do to do to restore abundant oceans full of fish much good for the oceans together. Thank Science shows us that we can rapidly produce for people to eat. And in three of the top ten you and congratulations! With your contin- an abundant ocean with sensible, scientific fishing countries of the world — the U.S., the ued support, we will continue to win policy ocean management in just 30 countries. One European Union, and Chile — ocean fisheries changes that rebuild ocean abundance. We’re full of the wildlife that we love: whales, turtles, are rebuilding right now. With your sup- making sure that the future will have cod, and dolphins, sea birds and fish. An ocean so port, Oceana and our allies have helped win when one again deigns to speak to us, I know abundant that it could feed 1 billion people national policies that will put 40 percent more what it will say: Ozeanoak salba ditza- a healthy seafood meal, every day, and do so fish in the European sea by 2020, a battle hero- gun, mundua elika dezagun! (Save the forever. ically led by Maria Damanaki, the EU oceans, feed the world!) Commissioner. Only 10 percent of American One month ago, I had another counterintui- fisheries are now being overfished. And the For the oceans, tive ocean moment. At the invitation of one of badly depleted top three fisheries in Chile are Switzerland’s most generous men, Hansjörg now, for the first time, fished under scientific Wyss, I flew in to Denver, caught a connect- quotas and are rebuilding. ing flight to Idaho Falls, rented a four-wheel- drive pickup truck, and went to Sears to buy Oceana is leading the battles that will re- two cans of Fix-a-Flat. The next morning I plenish the account. With your Andy Sharpless drove three hours north and east, deep into support, Oceana and our allies are winning Chief Executive Officer Montana’s wide, open, big-sky country, near victories that reinvest our ocean dividends and Yellowstone. My goal? To explain to his foun- fill the ocean with fish. dation, deeply and heretofore exclusively com- mitted to land-based conservation, why saving Key measures of progress include: the oceans is good for terrestrial biodiversity. • A commitment to end Mediterranean by all the countries whose fleets The biggest driver of biodiversity loss on land operate there is agriculture. Not urban sprawl, not roadways,

Oceana wishes to thank all of its supporters, especially its founding funders and foundations that in 2014 awarded Oceana grants of $500,000 or more: Adessium Foundation, Arcadia Fund, Bloomberg Philanthropies, Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, Oak Foundation, Oceans 5, Robertson Foundation, Rockefeller Brothers Fund, Sandler Foundation of the Jewish Community Endowment Fund, and Wyss Foundation. OCEANA.ORG | 1 MAKING WAVES

PRESIDENT OBAMA COMMITS TO FIGHTING SEAFOOD FRAUD

In June, President Obama announced his plan to develop a comprehensive program aimed at combating seafood fraud and keeping illegal fish out of the U.S. market. Seafood fraud refers to any number of ways seafood can be misrepresented, including the mislabeling or misidentification of seafood, which both endangers human health and enables overfishing. It’s a serious problem — DNA testing studies by Oceana discovered that 33 percent of seafood tested in the U.S. was fraudulently labeled. Because seafood travels through a long, complex process, traceability becomes increasingly difficult and opportunities increase for black market fish to reach your dinner plate. The president’s task force is expected to deliver its first set of recommendations in December of this year, and Oceana will work to ensure that they are strong and properly implemented.

2 | WINTER 2015 © OCEANA | Jenn Hueting MAKING WAVES

Portugal enacts historic bottom trawling protections Portugal took a dramatic step to protect its marine resources by prohibiting bottom trawling in more than 2 million square kilometers of ocean. The decree prohibits all deep-sea fishing — with the exception of longlining authorized only under certain conditions — to protect Portugal’s fisheries and deep-sea ecosystems. Just a few years ago, Portugal had the lowest percentage of protected ocean in all of Europe. The area now closed to destructive fishing methods is four times larger than the entire Iberian © OCEANA | Juan Carlos Calvin Peninsula. This decision comes after Oceana’s efforts to convince Portugal to protect its huge range of underwater mountains, the Gorringe management approach to count, cap, and Fisheries managers vote to Bank. Oceana is now calling for Portugal’s control bycatch. Species under consideration ban on bottom trawling to be extended to clean up the swordfish drift for hard caps include endangered fin, other fisheries in Portugal and the rest of the gillnet fishery humpback, and sperm whales and endangered European Union. leatherback, loggerhead, olive ridley, and The Pacific Fishery Management Council is green sea turtles. All of these endangered currently considering establishing hard caps, animals are expected to be caught in this or limits, on the numbers of whales and sea fishery. Federal fisheries managers are also turtles that can be injured or killed in the considering bycatch reduction alternatives for Spain bans trawling on California-based drift gillnet swordfish fishery. other protected marine mammals, sharks, and Balearic If a hard cap is reached, the fishery would be fish species that are discarded in the fishery. shut down for the remainder of the fishing The Council set a target to require 100 percent After campaigning by Oceana, the Spanish season. The council’s goal of reducing bycatch monitoring by the summer of 2016, so that all government banned bottom trawling on two in the drift gillnet fishery with hard limits on catch and bycatch is counted on every trip. seamounts and the Fort d’en Moreu , bycatch is consistent with Oceana’s fishery just off the coast of Spain’s Balearic . Oceana scientists undertook several scientific expeditions to document the amazing sea life that inhabits these places, including Another chlorine plant goes identified nine U.S. chlorine plants that filming the first underwater footage of the continued to use antiquated mercury-based mercury-free Emile Baudot escarpment — a large, rocky technology rather than switching to more wall running more than 180 miles from Ibiza Ashta Chemicals, one of only two U.S. chlorine efficient, mercury-free options that had existed to Menorca. This footage was then used to plants that continue to use mercury to for decades. After several years of campaigning, campaign for increased protection for these make chlorine, announced that it will stop Oceana was successful in pressuring seven and other productive underwater ecosystems. using mercury. The chlorine industry once of these nine plants to convert to mercury- Oceana’s European campaigners are currently released massive amounts of mercury into free production. Now, with Ashta’s recent urging the Spanish government to expand the environment, where it accumulates in announcement, just one of the original nine Spain’s Cabrera National Park to include all fish, especially those that are high on the food plants still uses mercury, and only for 25 three of the places recently closed to bottom chain, like tuna and sharks. In 2004, Oceana percent of its production. trawling.

© OCEANA | Jenn Hueting OCEANA.ORG | 3 NEWS AND NOTES

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OCEANA DISCOVERED THAT SOME FISHER- © OCEANA | Melissa Forsyth MEN IN MOROCCO AND ITALY are once again using illegal driftnets in the swordfish fishery, 1 despite laws prohibiting the practice. OCEANA’S NEW REPORT, WASTED CASH, reveals that fishermen in the United States could be throwing away approximately $1 billion 6 annually in wasted catch, also known as bycatch. MASSACHUSETTS BECAME THE NINTH STATE to regulate the trade of shark fins within its state borders. Unfortunately, the law excludes spiny 2 dogfish and smooth hound dogfish from the IN JULY, OCEANA AND KAWERAK, INC. trade ban, two of several species that are sold for published the Bering Marine Life and shark fin soup. Subsistence Data Synthesis. This atlas combines data from western science and Alaska Natives’ local and traditional knowledge to identify impor- 7 tant marine ecosystems, as well as areas of im- portance and high abundance for marine species. OCEANA AND OUR ALLIES ANNOUNCED The comprehensive atlas will help decision makers PLANS TO FILE A LAWSUIT to reinstate rules protect some of the most valuable and vulner- designed to protect endangered sperm whales able marine areas in the Bering Strait from human from deadly, mile-long drift gillnets that target threats, including offshore oil and gas, shipping, swordfish in ocean waters off California. and large-scale .

8 3 ACTOR AND OCEAN ADVOCATE AUSTIN THE SECOND OUR OCEAN CONFERENCE will NICHOLS tagged sharks off the coast of take place in Chile in the fall of 2015. The inau- with Oceana, Nautica, and the R.J. Dunlap Marine gural conference, held in Washington in June, Conservation Program at the University of . brought together individuals, experts, advocates, Nichols helped tag seven sharks while he was on the lawmakers, and the international ocean and for- water, including a nurse shark, a blacktip shark, four eign policy communities to discuss the future of blacknose sharks, and a lemon shark. the oceans and actions needed to protect them.

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4 OCEANA LAUNCHED A NEW INTERACTIVE GOOGLE MAP of seafood fraud across the globe. A REPORT BY THE CHILEAN NATIONAL FISHERY The map compiles more than 100 studies from 29 AND SERVICE revealed that salm- countries and every continent except Antarctica, on farming companies in Chile used 450,700 kilos of and is the most current and comprehensive review antibiotics in 2013, the world’s highest amount for of seafood fraud literature to date. View the map at the industry. http://bit.ly/1rr7Rka.

4 | WINTER 2015 Q + A

Q&A: PAUL GREENBERG Author of the books Four Fish and American Catch

Your last book focused on four species of You write about eating an East River wild fish. What prompted you to focus on oyster, straight from the Bronx mud. What American seafood for your next book? was that like? Most Americans are pretty much in the dark about It was both thrilling and terrifying. I’ll never do it where there seafood comes from and the stunning again and don’t recommend that others do it. But statistic that more than 85 percent of our seafood is once upon a time people did all the time. There was coming to us from abroad was, I thought, worthy once an oyster variety called a “Gowanus” named of a longer investigation. Add to that the fact that for the canal that served as its home. Today, the we control more ocean than any country on Earth Gowanus Canal is a SuperFund site. and the disconnect is even more weird and perhaps profound. And then, on top of it, when you see that It seemed like there was support for more than 3 billion pounds of American seafood is sustainable, local seafood in all three exported every year, you start to get the glimpse of locations you visited. How do you get a seafood system that is markedly out of sync with the move to more locally produced food. It was those who don’t have a personal tie or pretty low hanging fruit de mer. history with an area to care about bringing back local seafood? If you can, join a community supported fishery (CSF). There are not that many yet but the I think you have to get people down to the docks movement is growing. Readers should browse Why did you choose to focus on New and out on the water. You have to educate children localcatch.org to see if there’s a CSF near them. If York oysters, Gulf shrimp, and Alaskan about how coastal ecosystems work. And lastly you you don’t have a CSF near you it’s not a bad idea to salmon? have to educate palates to get people to be able to taste look at Greenpeace’s supermarket seafood ratings. the local water or “merroir” as one oyster aficionado I wanted to talk about the dismantling of This won’t necessarily lead you to local seafood calls the taste of one’s local waters. America’s seafood infrastructure and each creature but it will help lead you to supermarkets that have represented a different aspect of that. Oysters sustainability practices in place and which try to were about the dismantling of clean water and How does seafood fraud fit into the have a handle on seafood traceability. temperate reef structures that once held a lot more picture? Does it inhibit Americans from fish. Shrimp was in part about salt marsh and being able to enjoy their native catch? the incredible losses we have suffered. We’ve lost It certainly makes it harder for the very subtle Are you hopeful for the future of our something like 60 to 70 percent of this country’s flavors of locally sourced seafood to be authentically American catch? salt marsh and salt marsh is a key component experienced. to about 70 percent of our coastal commercial The jury is out. I think that we can have a seafood species (like several species of shrimp). But sustainable domestic seafood supply if we’re ready to the shrimp chapter was also about the loss of this What did you think of President Obama’s pay for it and to widen the circle of conservation to country’s economic infrastructure — our declining recent commitment to fight seafood fraud include fishermen and aquaculturists. These are the market share of our own seafood supply and and illegal fishing? people that spend by far the most time on the water. They need to be part of the solution rather than the economic effect farmed foreign seafood has I’m all for it. I was really struck by the recent study in demonized as the cause of all the oceans’ problems. had on the American seafood economy. Finally, the journal Marine Policy that noted that as much as Alaskan sockeye salmon was about the loss of 30 percent of the wild seafood we import is coming the river/sea connection and the way the basic to us through illegal fishing. That’s a huge burden Is there anything else that you want to hydrology of this country has been and is being we are placing on the oceans. Imagine if you told tell readers of Oceana magazine? altered. We have done tremendous damage to our someone that the car they were buying at a dealership I’ll be doing a symposia series around American diadromous fishes (salmon, shad, and , was stolen off the streets of another country? That Catch for the next year in the Northeast, Gulf and for example) through damage to river based is in effect what’s happening with a lot of imported on the Pacific Coast. I’ll be posting the dates and spawning habitat. That we could be about to do seafood. that again with the vast Pebble Mine project in locations of these events on twitter @4fishgreenberg the watershed of the largest sockeye salmon run Do you have any tips for readers who want and on Facebook at facebook.com/fourfish. It would on earth indicated to me that this is an issue that to eat sustainable, local seafood? be good to include Oceana readers in the discussion. needed greater national attention.

OCEANA.ORG | 5 The Wyss Foundation takes Oceana to Canada and Peru

orty percent of the world’s seafood catch: The vast region where the Wyss Foundation That’s more than 25 million metric tons has traditionally worked is best known for its Fof fish, lobster, and other seafood hauled natural beauty — jagged mountains, dense pine in from the world’s oceans each year and forests, colorful deserts, rolling grasslands — deposited on the docks of countries like Peru, and the variety of national parks, monuments, the Philippines, and the United States. Seven and refuges designed to protect them. But even countries and the EU are responsible for this though these places are located in the middle share of the global seafood catch, and Oceana is of a vast continent, thousands of miles from the now working to protect and restore our oceans ocean, the principles behind their conservation in each and every one of them. echo the principles of ocean conservation.

A $10 million grant from the Wyss Foundation Like the protection of public lands and over the next five years will secure Oceana’s forests, wise ocean policies can help preserve expansion into Canada and Peru — bringing and restore a publicly shared good. Just as Oceana’s science-based American sportsmen led the effort onshore to strategy to the countries responsible for nearly conserve wildlife habitat to improve hunting 40 percent of the world’s catch by weight. and opportunities, fishermen are Wyss’s grant is the foundation’s first major among those working to protect marine habitat investment in ocean conservation, and it builds to improve fish yields. on earlier grants from the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, Bloomberg Philanthropies, “Healthier oceans can provide sustainable food Canadians Peter and Diana Thomson, and supplies to help feed the world,” says Andrew other donors — all dedicated to saving the Sharpless, Oceana’s chief executive officer. oceans to feed the world. “Wild seafood is a source of healthy protein that could feed millions of people without further “After decades of declines among the world’s degrading the environment.” fisheries, new science and smarter policies have proven that the productivity and With better management, the global fish catch health of our oceans can in fact be restored,” could increase by up to 40 percent from current said philanthropist Hansjörg Wyss. “With levels, according to a 2012 study in the journal innovative management strategies, more and Science. If we can halt the decline and rebuild more fishing communities are rebuilding ocean abundance, we will be able to feed 700 , sustaining a way of life for future million people a healthy seafood meal each day, generations, and restoring the ocean’s ability to according to Oceana. Seafood requires no land, feed the world.” little to no fresh water, and generates little to no climate-changing gases, unlike the vast amounts Founded by Hansjörg Wyss, the Wyss Foundation of methane created by cows and other livestock. is dedicated to supporting innovative, lasting solutions that improve lives, empower But for seafood to be a viable food source for communities, and strengthen connections to the the future, we need to fix how we fish and land. The foundation is particularly well-known reverse decades of decline and poor fisheries for its work to conserve lands in the Western management. Canada and Peru are among the United States for public use and access. 30 countries that control more than 90

6 | WINTER 2015 Canada has the world’s longest coastline Newfoundland’s cod fishery was once so and is responsible for 2.76 million square plentiful that it fueled colonization of North kilometers of ocean. This real estate makes America. But rampant overfishing caused it one of the world’s major fishing nations, the cod population to decline by 99 percent catching 1.1 million metric tons of fish each from 1962 to 1992, leading to financial losses year, or 1.6 percent of the world’s wild fish of more than $1 billion annually. Similar catch by weight, and consistently ranking catastrophic declines occurred in other within the top 25 fish-producing countries Canadian fisheries, like Acadian redfish, in the world. But even with these high yields, shark, and canary rockfish. Canadian fisheries are performing below their full potential. On top of overfishing, poor management, excessive bycatch and insufficient protection “The scientists we’ve spoken to all agree of important have resulted in that Canada’s fisheries management Canadian fisheries being much less productive system needs improvement,” says Michael than they should be. “Canada presents a good Hirshfield, Oceana’s chief scientist and opportunity to sustainably raise fish catches,” strategy officer. Hirshfield attributes says Hirshfield. Practical conservation Canada’s low catch rates to a vicious cycle measures could increase Canadian marine called “sustainable overfishing” — where fisheries production by up to 50 percent above drastic declines no longer occur, but any time current levels, according to estimates from the a fish population begins to grow, fishermen University of British Columbia. catch the excess and prevent overall population growth. Oceana will campaign for national policies that rebuild fisheries. Hirshfield says that Oceana Canada’s fisheries are more depleted than will also work with the Canadian government those in many other developed countries, to reduce the catch of unwanted species, and well behind the European Union, United protect key habitats that provide important States, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, places for fish to breed and grow to maturity. Argentina, and other nations. Collapse of major fisheries is behind much of this decline “No other organization is currently pursuing — of the 131 fish populations that support Oceana’s model of campaigning to change Canada’s major fisheries, the majority of them fisheries policy at the national level in Canada” are collapsed, overexploited, or fully exploited says Sharpless. with no room for growth. And the classic example of this collapse is cod.

OCEANA.ORG | 11 OCEANA.ORG | 7 Peru is the world’s largest fishing country, serious problems for the entire ecosystem. and the fishery behind that superlative is the anchoveta. Twice as many pounds of Most of the anchoveta currently caught in anchoveta are caught every year in Peru as any Peru don’t end up on local dinner plates. other kind of fish is caught anywhere in the Instead, between 5 and 7 million metric world, according to Oceana research. tons of anchoveta are sent to more than 100 fishmeal plants each year, where it is boiled “Sixteen percent of fishing at the global level and ground into meal to feed farmed fish and takes place in these waters, particularly off pigs, according to research by Oceana. In 2010, the coast of Chile and Peru,” says Alex Muñoz, Peru exported more than 1 million tons of this Oceana’s vice president for Chile. “The area product, worth $1.6 billion, mostly to Asia. is of vital importance for both fishing and the lives of many species that feed on fish species, Muñoz says that Oceana will work with the including anchovy, mackerel and sardines.” Peruvian government to better manage both the anchoveta fishery, and campaign The four-inch long, silvery anchoveta may be to allocate more of the anchoveta catch for small, but they are the base of a massive food human consumption. Improved scientific web — the Humboldt Current ecosystem. Just monitoring and management will allow offshore from Peru and Chile, this current fisheries managers to know exactly how much transports cold, nutrient-rich water from the anchoveta is caught. Oceana will campaign Antarctic Ocean northward to the Peruvian to make scientific recommendations for coast. And these nutrients fuel the anchoveta, fishing quotas legally binding, and to create which in turn feed tunas, , sea lions and a comprehensive management plan for the hundreds of other marine mammals. anchoveta that would integrate both the ecosystem-based and the precautionary But the prevalence of anchoveta means that approaches. Finally, Oceana will campaign to Peruvian fisheries dictate the health, and fate, improve the scientific observers programs and of the entire Humboldt ecosystem. Hirshfield enforcement against illegal fishing through the says that anchoveta populations can fluctuate Peruvian Navy and other state agencies. dramatically, and a collapse would create

8 | WINTER 2015 percent of the world’s wild fish catch. By supporting locally developed, science-based policy reforms within these countries, Oceana believes that it is possible to restore the global oceans in a short amount of time. With Wyss’s help, Oceana will restore fisheries in the seven countries and the EU that catch nearly 40 percent of the world’s seafood.

Through the Wyss Foundation grant, in addition to support from other funders including the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, William H. Donner Foundation, Schad Foundation, Krupp Foundation, J.W. McConnell Family Foundation, and the Echo Foundation, Oceana will support scientists and policy experts in Canada and Peru who are implementing three strategies that are proven to recover fisheries around the world: setting science-based catch limits; reducing bycatch, or the incidental catch of non-targeted animals; and protecting important marine habitat.

“Wyss is bringing Oceana to Canada and Peru — one country is a historic player in global fisheries, the other has been the largest fishing nation in the entire world,” says Sharpless. “Applying science-based fisheries management in these two countries will be a tremendous step towards saving the oceans to feed the world.”

The Wyss Foundation’s grant is complimented by the support of other funders, including the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation, William H. Donner Foundation, Schad Foundation, Krupp Foundation, J.W. McConnell Family Foundation, Echo Foundation, and other funders, that are already bringing Oceana’s science-based fisheries management strategy to the countries that are responsible for nearly 40 percent of the world’s catch by weight. Hirshfield and Sharpless say that they are currently hiring teams of local Canadians and Peruvians to lead campaigns in each country.

“Working in countries that control nearly 40 percent of the world’s catch by weight,” says Sharpless, “Oceana is poised to make a big impact.”

For more about the Wyss Foundation, see our Q&A with Hansjörg Wyss on page 21

OCEANA.ORG | 9 Safeguarding Sea Turtles

Two victories protect loggerhead sea turtles in US waters

By Brianna Elliott

cientists estimate that only one in 1,000 seaweed habitat along the Gulf Stream off the loggerhead sea turtle hatchlings survive Atlantic coast. Coastal development, offshore Sto adulthood. From the moment these oil and gas development, and sea level rise turtles hatch from their eggs, they’re at risk continue to threaten their nesting beach from natural and manmade threats. Hatchlings habitat, while marine pollution, indiscriminant make a tasty treat for wildlife along the shore, fishing practices, seismic airgun use, and boat including ghost crabs, seagulls, and sharks, strikes threaten their ocean habitat. while artificial lighting on oceanfront hotels and highways may lure turtles inland to their In 2013, Oceana, the Center for Biological death. And reaching sexual maturity doesn’t Diversity (CBD), and Turtle Island Restoration necessarily mean turtles find a safe haven: Network (TIRN) sued the National Marine Overfishing, pollution, marine debris, and Fisheries Service (NMFS) after it failed to disease threaten turtles at all life stages. respond to petitions dating back to 2007 that advocated for stronger protections for Sadly, all loggerheads found in U.S. waters loggerhead sea turtles. The government listed are at risk. The North Pacific Ocean Distinct loggerheads as threatened under the ESA in Population Segment is listed as endangered 1978, but it never instituted the critical habitat under the Endangered Species Act (ESA), protections that the ESA listing requires. and the Northwest Atlantic Ocean Distinct Population Segment is listed as threatened. In response to that lawsuit, the federal Fortunately, after mounting pressure from government made a historic move for Atlantic Oceana and conservation allies, this summer loggerheads this July, when it established the the federal government created overdue largest critical habitat designation to-date. The protections that will help protect loggerheads U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service protected 685 for years to come. miles of nesting beach from North Carolina to Mississippi, and NMFS protected more than “The threats to loggerhead sea turtles are 300,000 square miles of ocean habitat from the numerous,” says Jacqueline Savitz, Oceana’s Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico. vice president for U.S. oceans. “We need strong protections to safeguard turtles from fishing- The critical habitat designation requires related threats, seismic airgun use, and oil and that all federal activities — anything from gas development. These actions will help to building beach-front hotels to authorizing allow this iconic species to finally recover on fisheries to operate — within these waters both coasts.” receive an extra level of scrutiny before proceeding, ensuring they do not threaten The Northwest Atlantic population of loggerhead prey and habitat sources. The loggerhead turtles nests on beaches through beach protections cover 84 percent of the the southeast United States, and forages, turtles’ known nesting habitat, while the ocean migrates, and seeks shelter in Sargassum habitat protection encompasses five different

106 | |SUMMER WINTER 20142015 OCEANA.ORG | 11 offshore environments that loggerheads need: “This is smart fisheries management — it is near-shore reproductive areas, breeding stopping interactions with fishing gear that areas, migratory corridors, winter habitat, and can be fatal to turtles at a time when we know “Critical habitat Sargassum seaweed habitat. turtles are in our water,” says Susan Murray, Oceana’s deputy vice president for the U.S. must be designated “Critical habitat must be designated for Pacific. “It doesn’t shut down the fishery for threatened and threatened and endangered species by law, permanently or forever, but it prevents the because it is so crucial to ensuring that intersection of an endangered species with a endangered species human activities do not place these animals gear known to kill this species at a critical and by law, because it is at risk. Studies have shown that species with otherwise deadly time.” designated critical habitat are twice as likely to so crucial to ensuring show signs of recovery than those without it,” Though this closure was a positive step for that human activities says Amanda Keledjian, a marine scientist at loggerheads, Oceana would like to see drift Oceana. “This designation will help ensure the gillnets banned in an industry-wide shift to more do not place these long-term survival of loggerheads.” sustainable fishing gear for selectively targeting animals at risk.” swordfish. In the interim, Enticknap says full Shortly after loggerheads in the southeast won observer coverage and strict limits on all bycatch this major victory in July, loggerheads on the would be important and positive steps toward West Coast gained their own form of protection: safeguarding marine life from drift gillnets. safety from the California swordfish drift gillnet fishery. This fishery deploys mile-long nets at The California swordfish drift gillnet fishery dusk each night to catch swordfish, but ends up has one of the highest rates of bycatch — over capturing a staggering amount of other marine the last five years it’s been estimated that 61 life, including dolphins, sea turtles, sea lions, percent of the marine life caught by the fishery and whales. The intersection of loggerheads is thrown overboard. It’s such a dirty fishery and drift gillnets becomes particularly acute that the State of Oregon prohibits its fishermen during years of El Niño conditions, when the from using these nets, and drift gillnets are warm, nutrient-rich waters of the Pacific draw banned in waters off of Washington state, as loggerheads further north in search of pelagic well as internationally on the high and in red crabs, one of their main prey sources. the Mediterranean.

“North Pacific loggerheads are found across “Ultimately, drift gillnets need to be a prohibited the North Pacific Ocean, with nesting grounds gear type on the West Coast. There are other in Japan to foraging hotspots in the central legal, more sustainable ways to catch swordfish and eastern Pacific. All along the way, they’re cleanly without having high levels of bycatch,” running a gauntlet of threats from pelagic says Enticknap. “In the meantime, Oceana is longlines and coastal drift gillnets when they working to get 100 percent observer coverage enter Baja and Southern California,” says Ben and strict limits on bycatch, like dolphins, seals, Enticknap, a marine scientist at Oceana. “When megamouth sharks, billfish and more.” they get caught in drift gillnets, they drown and die. Fishing mortality is one of the biggest While there is more work to be done to protect threats to this endangered population.” loggerhead sea turtles, the actions taken this summer are certainly a victory for these marine NMFS is required by law to close the drift reptiles. Loggerheads are the most frequent gillnet fishery in the Pacific Loggerhead nesting sea turtles in the U.S., and these Conservation Area — an area greater than protections work to safeguard an iconic marine 25,000 square miles off California, stretching species — one that connects land and sea, from just north of Santa Barbara to south of fishermen and conservationists. San Diego — during predicted or observed El Niño years from June 1 to August 31. When “If we want to ensure that sea turtle populations NMFS didn’t take the legally required action to recover and remain resilient against future prohibit drift gillnets in the Pacific Loggerhead threats such as climate change, it is essential Conservation Area this summer, despite that we minimize the number that die in fishing clear signs of El Niño conditions, Oceana, nets and protect habitat,” says Keledjian. “These CBD, and TIRN called on the federal agency Oceana victories are a stepping stone for the urging NMFS to follow its own rule to protect future, where loggerheads in both the Atlantic these endangered sea turtles. After mounting and Pacific are protected both from fishing pressure, NMFS closed the fishery in the Pacific injuries and habitat degradation.” Loggerhead Conservation Area from July 25 to August 31.

12 | WINTER 2015 THE TRUTH ABOUT SHRIMP

© OCEANA | Melissa Forsyth

A new report reveals widespread seafood fraud in US shrimp

By Justine E. Hausheer

Aquarium pets don’t belong in the frozen foods “Seafood fraud refers to any number of ways that shrimp fishing season,” says Warner, “and see how aisle. But that’s exactly what Oceana’s Kim Warner seafood is misrepresented, including mislabeling this local product was marketed, sold, and also and Rachel Golden found last summer, during an or misidentification of seafood,” says Beth Lowell, presented.” Other Oceana staff members collected investigation of Gulf Coast shrimp. Using DNA Oceana’s seafood fraud campaign director. “This additional samples from New York, Oregon, and testing, they discovered a banded coral shrimp, substitution can happen at each step of the Washington DC, to see if shrimp fraud varied Stenopus hispidus, in a bag labeled “wild salad supply chain — at the restaurant, the distributor, around the country. shrimp” in the frozen foods section of a Pensacola, or the processing and packaging facility. It Florida grocery store. can also occur deliberately, when high-quality Their investigation discovered high levels of seafood is swapped out for a less desirable, seafood fraud — DNA testing revealed that a full “The species is actually an aquarium pet,” says cheaper, or more abundant species.” 30 percent of the shrimp products tested were Golden, a former science fellow with Oceana. “It’s misrepresented: either mislabeled (15 percent), usually sold in pet stores and online, so we were Shrimp is the most consumed seafood in the misleading (10 percent) or unidentifiable or shocked to find this species in a bag of frozen United States and the most highly traded seafood comingled with at least two different species in shrimp from Vietnam.” worldwide, according to Oceana, making it a prime the same bag (5 percent). And about 75 percent of target for seafood fraud. In 2012, 89 percent of the frozen grocery store bags of salad-sized shrimp Golden and Warner, an Oceana senior scientist, shrimp consumed in the U.S. was imported from that the team tested had at least two species of spent 10 days traversing the Unites States’ Gulf other countries, according to a 2013 report by the shrimp. Coast, collecting samples of shrimp from grocery National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. stores and restaurants in 10 cities. Subsequent “We used a technique called DNA barcoding,” says DNA testing revealed that a full 31 percent of the The U.S. Gulf Coast is famous for its seafood, Golden, “which tells us the exact species of the shrimp products tested were misrepresented — a including shrimp. “We wanted to go to a region sample we collected.” form of seafood fraud. famous for locally caught seafood in the middle of

OCEANA.ORG | 13 In addition to the surprising discovery of the aquarium species in a grocery store, DNA testing 30 PERCENT of the shrimp also identified three species of shrimp not yet known genetically to science: one in a bag of products tested were misrepresented frozen, wild, salad-sized shrimp from , comingled with a domestic Gulf species, and another in a grocery store’s prepared shrimp 15 PERCENT were mislabeled salad, both purchased in New York City. The third new species was located in a bag of frozen wild salad-sized shrimp from India, purchased in Silver Spring, Maryland. 10 PERCENT were misleading

Despite shrimp’s popularity, most consumers don’t know what species of shellfish they are eating: 5 PERCENT were unidentifiable or commingled with More than 40 species of shrimp are allowed to be labeled and sold as just “shrimp” in the U.S., while at least two different species in the same bag only seven types require a more specific name at the point of sale. Important details like whether a shrimp was wild-caught or farmed, or even where Of the 75 percent of shrimp that was labeled as wild or the shrimp was farmed or caught are important details that are often left off of restaurant menus presumed to be wild (often called “Gulf”) 25 PERCENT and seafood labels. of those samples were actually farm-raised shrimp “In addition to DNA testing, we wanted to understand how shrimp was being marketed and presented,” says Warner. Lowell says that U.S. fishermen are required consumers and regulators to be able to trace that to follow certain regulations, like staying fish from the boat to the plate.” She and Golden surveyed how shrimp was under set catch limits or using turtle-excluder described on 600 menus and in 27 grocery stores devices to avoid catching and killing sea turtles. In June 2014, at Oceana’s recommendation, from the Gulf, Washington, DC, New York City, Yet, without more information available to President Obama created a dedicated task force and Portland, Oregon. They looked for information consumers, it is nearly impossible to distinguish with a commitment to combat black market that indicated if the shrimp was farm raised or wild seafood from responsible fisheries from seafood — including seafood fraud as well as caught, what species it was, or where, when and unsustainable options. And misrepresented illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing. how it was caught. seafood puts those who play by the rules at an The goal of the task force is to help stop seafood even greater disadvantage. fraud and illegal fishing. Oceana calls on the task As predicted, they found that consumers are given force to establish comprehensive traceability very little information. For example, less than 1 Adhering to those regulations can be costly, she requirements to ensure that critical information percent of restaurant menus revealed whether the says, especially when fishermen then sell their follows our seafood throughout the supply shrimp was wild caught or farm-raised. In grocery wild Gulf product into a marketplace flooded chain and all the way to the end consumer, stores, 30 percent of the products did not provide with imported farmed Asian shrimp mislabeled confirming that it’s safe, legally caught, and information about where the shrimp was from as wild. honestly labeled. and 20 percent not provide details on whether the shrimp was wild caught or farm-raised. Oceana’s shrimp testing builds on data collected Lowell says that improved traceability would from 2010 to 2012, when Oceana conducted also help prevent illegally caught seafood from “For Gulf fishermen, mislabeling or a lack of one of the largest seafood fraud investigations entering the marketplace, deter human rights information can hurt their businesses as their in the world to date, collecting more than 1,200 violations around the world, and provide seafood products are competing in a market of samples of finfish from 14 metropolitan areas consumers with the information they need to mislabeled or misrepresented shrimp ,” says to determine if they were honestly labeled. make informed, responsible seafood choices. Lowell. Warner and Golden found that 25 percent That investigation discovered an astonishing of shrimp samples that were labeled as wild or The president’s task force issued draft 33 percent of finfish samples were mislabeled, presumed to be wild (often called “Gulf”) were recommendations to combat illegal, unreported according to U.S. Food and Drug Administration actually farm-raised shrimp. In the Gulf region, and unregulated fishing and seafood fraud in guidelines. 36 percent of the shrimp tested and labeled December of 2014. “Gulf” were farmed-raised. The most common “Consumers have a right to know where, substitution found was farmed whiteleg shrimp, “Oceana submitted comments to the task force when, and how the seafood that they purchase which stood in for wild caught products, including on the draft recommendations,” says Lowell, “and and eat was fished,” says Lowell. “We want those labeled “wild,” “Gulf,” “Carolina,” “Texas,” once the final recommendations are released, we to have traceability for all seafood that allows and “rock.” will work to ensure they are fully implemented.”

14 | WINTER 2015 Q&A: MARIA DAMANAKI Former European Commissioner for Maritime Affairs and Fisheries

orn in Crete, Damanaki began her past. We stopped the top-down decisions Bpolitical career in the 1970s, when from Brussels to make room for input she helped lead the underground student from regional stakeholders and we opposition to the dictatorship in Greece. introduced binding sustainable rules for She served as speaker of the clandestine international fisheries. radio program broadcasting from the occupied National Technical University On maritime affairs, I hope to have helped of Athens, where her voice became create something new at European level: a known as the voice of the uprising. She true ocean policy. And we Europeans took a was subsequently imprisoned by the leading role when it comes to setting rules dictatorship. to manage and preserve the oceans. More jobs and economic opportunities can arise Among other distinctions, Damanaki then in the maritime sector, from ocean energy © 2010-European Commission went on to become a member of parliament to biotechnology. Under one condition: we at the age of 25 and the first woman ever want sustainable growth, not a competition to be elected vice-president of the Greek between growth and sustainability. “I have said from parliament. Damanaki is completing seven years of service as the European You led major reforms to the Common day one that you Commissioner for Maritime Affairs and Fisheries Policy. How will these changes cannot negotiate Fisheries, where she has spearheaded a benefit European oceans and fisheries? with biology. If the complete overhaul of fisheries management What I wanted to achieve with the reform in the European Union. was simple: to have more fish in the sea. fish stocks collapse, Because this will benefit everybody at the because we have When did you become interested in the same time: the fishermen, the oceans, and oceans and fisheries? our future generations’ food supply. We not followed are inseparable from the sea. For example, I have been living closely to the sea from scientific advice, restoring fish stocks is not only healthy for my childhood, having been born in a Greek our ecosystems, it also means more income island, Crete. So you can imagine that the then it is too late.” for fishermen. With the measures we took, sea has always played a role in my life, and we have already tripled the number of fish I have always been familiar with the stocks fished at sustainable levels in 2014 to concerns of coastal communities such as 27. And for 2015, we can reach even 30 fish small-scale fishermen and their families. stocks fished sustainably. This is a massive That was also why I was extremely pleased achievement, which could soon mean 30 to have been tasked to work on maritime percent more jobs in the catching sector and fisheries at the European Commission alone. in 2009. Oceans are like the air we breathe: they are essential for life. We are already today seeing the consequences of us not What was the biggest challenge you taking care of them enough. faced in reforming the Common Fisheries Policy? What accomplishment are you I have said from day one that you cannot most proud of from your time as the negotiate with biology. If the fish stocks Commissioner for Maritime Affairs and collapse, because we have not followed Fisheries? scientific advice, then it is too late. So it Let me put it this way: With the reform was challenging to get everybody around of the Common Fisheries Policy, we the table and convince all stakeholders that radically changed the way fishing will be reform is necessary for the sustainable future done in Europe for the next decades. We of fisheries and the need to put an end to set the foundation so that overfishing and overfishing. What was most difficult for me discarding fish can one day be a thing of the was to deal with the wheeling and dealing

OCEANA.ORG | 15 © EU

that went on behind closed doors in the We recognise that the ocean is the lifeblood for and stakeholders will feel the benefits of this, Fisheries Council between Ministers on how many Europeans and we will continue to offer I’m optimistic that even more is possible. And much fish is taken out of the sea in the annual support to help local economies adapt to the more is necessary. fish quota negotiations. Today, there has been changes in policies. a true change of culture: we are no longer What is the most important thing we discussing if we should go for sustainable Have you seen Europe’s oceans change in can do right now to restore fisheries and fisheries, but how quickly. This is new, and your lifetime? ocean health? puts us on the right path. Absolutely. I was born near pristine coasts. I International cooperation is absolutely crucial. cannot see fish there anymore. I cannot swim I believe we have to continue our clampdown How important are the oceans to wherever I want because the water is no on illegal fishing around the world, make European culture and life? longer as clear as it was then. Coastal erosion sure that we apply the same sustainability You only have to travel around Europe to see is present in Aegean Islands. I have seen it principles to our work internationally, and the impact that seas and oceans have on our on my holidays there in the recent years. But continue to invest in marine knowledge to everyday lives. The oceans are everywhere: in of course we cannot stick to the past. People help us make smart decisions moving forward. the things we eat, the things we buy, the jobs have to live. So I can understand the need for Now is the time to roll up our sleeves and work we have, the communities we live in, the places change. But the only way to us for survive is to together to achieve radical policy changes. we go, and even the clothes we wear! reconcile ourselves with nature. Is there anything else you want to tell This is of course is even more obvious in those Do you feel hopeful about the future of readers of Oceana? communities dotted along Europe’s sprawling the oceans and fisheries? Let me use this opportunity to congratulate coastlines. In these places, the local economy Look at the changes we have achieved in Oceana on their tremendous effort to fight is ocean-dependent in one way or another, Europe within only a few years, with so many for sustainable fisheries and the health of our whether that is through tourism, aquaculture, stakeholders and 28 governments around oceans. I have appreciated its contribution in fisheries, or even border controls. Small-scale the table. We can also achieve change at our effort to reshape fisheries in Europe. We fisheries in particular often are important for the international level. We set important have established a warm relationship which I jobs — they hold together the social fabric of foundations to fight illegal fishing, to have hope that we can keep alive in the future. coastal communities and shape the cultural stronger Regional Fisheries Management identity of many of Europe’s coastal regions. Organizations, and we have set incentives for That’s why they need specific support and we countries we have fisheries partnerships with have made sure to factor this into the reform. to fish sustainably. As soon as governments

16 | WINTER 2015 © OCEANA | Justine Sullivan

ASK DR. PAULY

What is so good about mussels and oysters?

t has become fashionable to consume In Chesapeake Bay, where once-giant oyster actually come from? Not from zooplankton, mussels, oysters and other shellfish, but reefs kept the water crystal clear, the reef or from the fish that feed on zooplankton. before I try to explain why this fashion was destroyed by overfishing. Now, oysters The good stuff all comes from phytoplankton, © EU I might be a good thing, we must be clear about have had difficulty reestablishing themselves from the microscopic algae that are the food what these shellfish actually are. because the water is too polluted. Thus, of bivalves. Bivalves feed on the very plants bivalves require clean water, but they also that synthesize the good stuff we want in Shellfish are animals that live in the sea, but contribute to clean water along our coasts. our seafood, and this is also the reason why are not fish — fish have no shells. But lobsters they are so tasty, especially when served raw, and shrimp are also called shellfish. And thus, Now, why should anything that is good to eat smoked, or as part of a paella. to distinguish oysters, mussels, and similar be mentioned in connection with cleaning animals from other shellfish we should call water — or China ink? Because they do not need to be given costly them bivalves, referring to the fact that their animal feeds — as do farmed salmon — farm- shells consist of two halves, which can close Bivalves are among the few marine raised oysters and mussels, like those grown and protect the animal living within. Most herbivores that humans eat in large amounts. on ropes hanging from floating rafts, are also bivalves do not move. Rather, they attach Herbivores are animals that eat plants on quite inexpensive. themselves to rocks or the ropes of bivalve land, like grass and leaves, or their marine farmers. Only scallops can jump, by quickly equivalent, the microscope algae which Thus, eating bivalves from farms will provide snapping their shells when they see a hungry are known as phytoplankton. In the sea, you with animal protein from animals that starfish approaching, which they see with a however, most herbivorous animals — the do not suffer existential angst and that do not dozen blue eyes, like six tiny Scandinavians flea-sized zooplankton — are much too small mess up the environment, but rather clean it. in a row. to be eaten by humans. To contribute to our And this package of good things will not cost seafood, zooplankton must first be consumed you much. So go ahead and eat an oyster; and Bivalves feed by pumping water into their by small fish which we can eat, like sardine, if you don’t like them, eat mussels. bodies and filtering out the matter suspended or by big fish that eat the small fish which we in the water surrounding them, mainly living can also eat. and dead microscopic algae. In effect, they Thus, in the sea, we usually consume the clean the water in which they live. Many of equivalent of lions, wolves, or other predators us will recall school experiments in which that feed on herbivores, or of animals that Daniel Pauly is a Professor of two or three oysters placed in an aquarium, eat lions and wolves (like dragons). The only Fisheries at the Fisheries Centre of the University of British Columbia, whose waters had been blackened by China animals that we eat in great amounts from the Principal Investigator of the Sea ink, will restore the tank to clean water in an the sea that are equivalent to our herbivores Around Us Project, and a member of hour or so (but I suggest that you don’t eat on land — antelope, sheep and cattle — are the Board of Oceana. the oysters afterward). mussels, oysters and other bivalves.

Because they can’t move to escape from Now where does all the good stuff that we waters they do not like, bivalves will only expect our seafood to provide — like Omega thrive when the water around them is clean. 3s, iodine and other micronutrients —

OCEANA.ORG | 17 FISH TALE Recovering fisheries and restoring abundance

By Brianna Elliott

HISTORY s Maryland’s state fish, striped bass Ais highly prized by recreational and commercial fishermen alike along the CHESAPEAKE BAY Atlantic coast, and is the top sport fish in the Chesapeake Bay. These long-lived STRIPED BASS fish are anadromous — meaning that SPECIES: they swim in the Atlantic but return to Morone saxatilis freshwater areas to spawn, primarily in LOCATION: Primarily spawns in the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. but ranges from Canada to Florida Prior to the 1980s, most fishermen in Maryland and Virginia were catching GEAR TYPE: Gillnets by commercial fishermen and young, sexually immature fish — patterns hook-and-lines by recreational fishermen not in line with good fisheries manage- ment. By the 1980s, scientists became increasingly concerned this fishery was at risk of collapse when strong year classes, or abundances of baby fish, were declining. OCEANA’S In 1985, Maryland made a rare move and REBUILDING declared a fishing moratorium on striped ABUNDANCE APPROACH bass, banning all fishing from 1985 to 1990 — the time when a three-year spawning Oceana works on two broad issues Though Maryland’s moratorium was running average exceeded previous levels. that affect Chesapeake Bay striped Virginia soon followed suit and issued a highly controversial, it was successful moratorium from 1989 to 1990, while other in rebuilding an iconic fishery. From bass, as well as other commer- Atlantic states restricted their catches. Not 1995 to its peak in 2003, the commer- cial fish species in the Atlantic: only was the moratorium effective, but cial harvest steadily grew from 3.4 reducing bycatch and maintaining Maryland’s moratorium was unique in that million pounds to 7 million pounds. their Department of Natural Resources Female spawning stock biomass — forage fish populations. Oceana spent that five-year period discussing how believes that it’s important to was the fishery was to be managed when it the number of females that are older reopened. The crisis resulted in strength- than four years, or of reproductive maintain low bycatch numbers for ened federal law, requiring all states to age — has declined since 2004, but the commercial fish species to help comply with the Atlantic States Marine ASMFC says striped bass are not yet Fisheries Commission (ASMFC) decisions, overfished. Today, the striped bass prevent overfishing. Additionally, or to face their own fishing moratorium. fishery is one of the most tightly- Oceana advocates for sustaining This type of fisheries management forced controlled and effectively-managed East Coast states to stay within healthy stable populations of forage fish to catch quotas and effectively manage striped fisheries. maintain healthy ecosystems. bass together.

18 | WINTER 2015 EVENTS

© Jon Dee

© Tom Vickers

© Ryan Miller © Tom Vickers© Jon Dee © Jon Dee

© Ann Chatillon © Tom Vickers © Anna Gutierrez

Top Right: Leonardo DiCaprio;© Jon Dee Bottom Left to Right: Valarie Van Cleave and Eve Ruffatto; Glee’s Jenna Ushkowitz and Dusky the Shark ; Dennis Haybert

LEONARDO DICAPRIO HONORED “We have an obligation to protect our planet and all the species AT OCEANA’S SEACHANGE that inhabit it, and that is why I’m here today to celebrate Oceana’s SUMMER PARTY achievements,” said DiCaprio. “For me and my foundation, Oceana is an absolute no-brainer to support because they deliver tangible results and “Allow me to get straight to the point,” said Leonardo DiCaprio. “I truly that’s what we need. We need someone to deliver tangible results in this believe that saving our oceans is the most important struggle of our time.” fight.” DiCaprio was Oceana’s honored guest at the seventh-annual SeaChange Summer Party in Laguna Beach, California on August 16, where he spoke Together, Oceana supporters donated an estimated $1.5 million for about his commitment to Oceana and ocean conservation. The evening Oceana. Other celebrity supporters in attendance were Ted Danson, honored DiCaprio for his continued commitment to protecting the Dennis Haysbert, Laura Dern, Miranda Cosgrove, Austin Nichols, Oscar world’s oceans, including a $3 million grant to Oceana earlier this year. Nunez, Rachael Harris, and Jenna Ushkowitz.

OCEANA.ORG | 19 EVENTS EVENTS

PERFECT PROTEIN BOOK SIGNING

n September, Oceana CEO Andy Sharpless hosted an Iimpromptu lesson on ocean conservation in the Hamptons home of Monica Vidal. Over drinks, he shared his thoughts about the link between ocean conservation and sustainable food sources in the future with 50 guests, many of them new to Oceana. Board members Mike Northrop and Loic Gouzer joined the festivities, as Oceana celebrity supporter Adrian Grenier. Attendees received copies of the recently published book, The Perfect Protein, authored by Sharpless and Suzannah Evans.

JUNIOR OCEAN The Junior Council organized an evening with Andy Sharpless in London this September. More than 50 young professionals attended the event, which COUNCIL GATHERS featured a discussion about The Perfect Protein and Oceana’s commitment to saving the oceans to feed the world. The next Junior Council event will be IN LONDON a London fashion show fundraiser in February 2015.

20 | WINTER 2015 SUPPORTER SPOTLIGHT

Q&A: HANSJÖRG WYSS Founder of the Wyss Foundation

Can you tell me about your foundation’s on a broad scale, across oceans. vision for environmental work? After Andy Sharpless visited the Centennial Valley, a beautiful valley We work to conserve public lands for in Montana, and delivered a fantastic everyone to experience and enjoy. In the presentation on Oceana, it was American West, we do this by helping local clear to us that it was time for our communities conserve large landscapes, organizations to work together. like the Crown of the Continent in Montana and the Hoback Range in Wyoming. We are Have you seen the natural world also working to protect parts of the tropical change in your lifetime? forest in the Amazon in Peru, and to create a national park in Patagonia. This would When I grew up in Switzerland, be the first bi-national park between Chile you couldn’t swim in one of the and Argentina. We are also trying to create a greatest rivers in Europe, the Aare many more groups like Oceana starting to national park in the Carpathian Mountains in Switzerland, which flows to the Rhine, work on the oceans, I am not sure we will in Romania, one of the largest untouched because effluent from every town was see huge improvements over the next 20 or areas in Europe. dumped into these rivers and streams. People 30 years. Because we all know that there are didn’t care. However, in the last 50 or 60 islands of plastic in the middle of the Pacific years, there has been a huge effort in Europe Why is your foundation now supporting and the Atlantic. And unless a major effort is and the United States to clean up our rivers, ocean conservation? undertaken by shipping companies to clean lakes, and other waterways. So there has We all know that the oceans have been up what they throw in the ocean, and unless been an extremely positive change - and that overfished and polluted. They have been we cut back on plastic waste everywhere, I has been the biggest transformation that I damaged by oil spills, illegal dumping, and am not sure the oceans will improve. But we have seen. There has also been a good deal industrial activities across every ocean. I certainly are going to try. of destruction of land through the expansion feel that the time has come to protect the of suburbs, mining, and other development. oceans the same way we try to protect land But, for the first time, I have noticed real What makes you hopeful that the throughout the world. efforts being made to protect large pieces world’s fisheries can be restored? of land, not only by us but by many other We would not be supporting this project and How are land and ocean conservation organizations in the world. Oceana unless I strongly believed that, in linked? certain parts of the world, with cooperation To conserve one, we must conserve the Can you tell us about your personal of the nations that we work with, we can other. Rivers flow from mountain ranges, connection to the oceans? restore healthy fisheries. Absolutely. But we through flatlands, through prairies, into need the scientific background that Oceana Growing up with my family, our father the oceans. In turn, oceans create clouds provides and that others, like the Woods always took us to the Mediterranean coast, that the trade winds carry back to land, and Hole Oceanographic Institution, can provide when it was unspoiled, and we went to the they bring moisture, rainfall, and shade. So to help us to establish sustainable catch small villages near Marseilles, France. We the oceans and continents are one; not two levels. had a wonderful experience learning to swim different things. They are interlinked in and play in salt water. My next experience many different ways. If we do this, the world’s fisheries in certain with the oceans was trying to deep-sea fish, areas will improve. If nations are allowed but I got terribly seasick. The ocean was not Why did the foundation choose to to fish with no sensible limits, then the kind to me, and I’ve never gone deep-sea world’s oceans and fisheries will ultimately partner with Oceana? fishing again. But since then, I’ve been back be destroyed. When you find the right I have always been interested in all kinds on many boats, including a few months ago in scientific partner, at least in that part of the of conservation. In the past, I have worked Greece, where I saw firsthand how fantastic world you can make positive changes. But on cleaning up some rivers and lakes in the interaction between islands and the sea it needs the rule of law. Without the rule of Europe, but I never found the right partner can be. to work with to help restore the oceans. We law and strong government enforcement to have seen proposals before, but they haven’t ensure that the laws are followed, nothing Do you feel optimistic about the future will happen. But I strongly feel that the two been large enough in vision to protect a of the oceans? part of the oceans. But, as we have followed nations we will work with, Canada and Peru, Oceana’s work over the last few years, it I don’t know. Unless there is a joint effort have the willpower to improve their fisheries became clear that they are making change by many more nations, and unless there are and provide more food for everyone.

OCEANA.ORG | 21 CHEF’S CORNER

© Mark Rutherford

SAM TALBOT’S SMOKED SARDINES WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES AND HERBS

It couldn’t be any simpler than this. In tomatoes will also work, but heirlooms have keeping with the ease of a tomato salad, all interesting and unique flavors and give you you have to do here is to open up the can of the ability to mix and match different person- sardines and chop some herbs. Regular red alities on the plate.

Serves 4 Directions

• 2 pounds super-ripe heirloom Slice the tomatoes ½ inch thick and tomatoes (I prefer a colorful mix of distribute them among 4 plates. Flake varieties) the sardines over the tomatoes and drizzle the sardine oil over the top. • Two 6-ounce cans smoked sardine Season to taste with salt; sprinkle the fillets herbs and scallions over all. Serve immediately. • Salt

• ¼ cup chopped fresh soft-leaved herbs such as cilantro, parsley, mint, or chervil This recipe is reprinted from For Cod and Country, released May 2011, with • 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced permission of Sterling Epicure.

22 | WINTER 2015 PARTING SHOT

Fishermen return to their nets on the Tañon Straight in the Philippines at sunrise to collect their catch.

© OCEANA | Jenn Hueting Protecting the World’s Oceans

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A of sardines at Panagsama Beach, Moalboal, Philippines.

© Steve De Neef

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