The Epoch Times - 03/12/2021 Page : B04

B4 FRIDAY, MARCH 12, 2021 Food and , Not Sun and Sand, in Puerto Vallarta

DENNIS LENNOX DENNIS LENNOX

exico’s Puerto Vallarta is admittedly not known for wine. M After all, Jalisco, the state surrounding the resort destination fi rst popularized by Eliza- beth Taylor, Richard Burton, and other Hollywood stars back in the day, is the home of in the same way that only comes from France’s Champagne region. Th en there is the lack of , which obviously are a prerequisite for making wine. Despite these two realities, this city on the Pacifi c coast has transformed itself into an emerging destination for haute cuisine and quality wine, which in the latter case is in- creasingly grown and produced in . While Mexican wine isn’t widely exported, it has been made since at least 1597, when North America’s oldest winery, Casa Madero, was founded in the Valle de Parras or, in English, Vines Val- ley. Th is appellation is located in the state of Coahuila, about 300 miles southwest of Laredo, Texas. Th e vast majority of wine is, however, produced from grapes grown south of California in Baja Califor- nia’s Guadalupe Valley. Th ink reds such 1 as , , and petite sirah.

Authentic Mexico DENNIS LENNOX 1. Puerto Vallarta’s old Th is food and wine scene is the reason town is dominated by the why I traveled to P.V., as it is known locally, crown-topped tower of Our last month on my fi rst international trip Lady of Guadalupe Church. since the pandemic. Not only was I drawn by the growing number of chefs cooking 2. The colorful streetscape seriously delicious food, but authenticity of Puerto Vallarta’s old town. was a major factor in favoring Puerto Val- 3. Bernhard Güt, chef and larta over competing destinations. owner of Trio, opened the restaurant in 1997. Pictured in the wine cellar, he holds a bottle of Monte Xanic 1995 While Mexican wine Cabernet Sauvignon. 4. Icú, named Mexico’s best isn’t widely exported, new restaurant in 2019, features a wine list con- it has been made since sisting exclusively of Mex- at least 1597, when ican wine. Pictured are the SC Scielo Blanco Chardon- North America’s oldest nay 2019, Rivero Gonza- lez Rosado 2019, Vino de la winery, Casa Madero, was Reina Duquesa Cuvee Blanc 2 2019, L.A. Cetto Reserva founded in the Valle de Privada Nebbiolo 2016, and Tinto Mexicano 2017 (Cab- DENNIS LENNOX DENNIS LENNOX Parras. ernet Sauvignon). 5. A cocktail gets a finish- Unlike purpose-built destinations, it ing touch at Icú. has a real sense of place. Th is is most 6. Dinner at Trio con- evidently seen in the number of locals, sisted of six courses and tourists, and expats mixing and mingling six pairings, all handpicked with each other along the Malecon, a by chef and owner Bern- beachfront promenade, or on the cobble- hard Güt, who is originally from the legendary French stone streets of Old Town, also known as appellation of Alsace. 6 the Romantic Zone. In Old Town, which is dominated by the crown-topped tower of Our Lady of COURTESY OF ICÚ COURTESY OF ICÚ Guadalupe Church, all things food and wine come alive at Trio. Th en again, an outstanding wine list is expected when chef and owner Bernhard Güt is origi- nally from Alsace, the legendary French appellation. Güt’s restaurant, open since 1997, blends fl avors from Mexico and the Mediterranean into what he calls New 4 Mexican (not to be confused with New 5 3 Mexico, the U.S. state). I experienced the best he had to off er during a six-course, six-pairing dinner. runner-up was a 2018 IF YOU GO Th e wine, handpicked by Güt, included from Tres Raíces, a winery from Guana- some of Mexico’s best. Th e standouts juato in central Mexico. I stayed in the mostly expat neighborhood of were the Pacifi c sea bass topped with “Today, the wine industry in Mexico is Marina Vallarta, a short drive from the airport, at huitlacoche, a black corn fungus that is so dynamic,” Güt said. “Th e wine is really the Westin Resort & Spa. often likened to truffl es, and the Vinos world-class because our unique terroir Zanzonico 2017 Syrah Reserve from allows for great at a great value.” The hotel, which only has ocean-facing rooms, Napa Valley veteran Gerard Zanzonico, On the other end of the spectrum is Icú, was designed in a minimalist style that not only who now makes wine in a subregion of The Malecon, or a more locally oriented restaurant on par incorporated traditional architectural elements ’s Guadalupe Valley. Th e promenade along the sea. with what you fi nd in stateside hipster and decorative colors, but also preserved a couple enclaves. It wasn’t surprising to learn hundred coconut palm trees across the grounds. it was recognized in 2019 by the maga- Fittingly, the Westin’s wine list includes several zine Food and Travel as Mexico’s best Mexican wines, with Casa Madero’s non-vintage new restaurant. Not only was the plat- being the obvious poolside choice. ing spectacular, but the sharply dressed young staff were genuinely attentive. Getting around P.V. is easy. Both local taxis (cash Chef and co-owner Mauricio Leal has only) and Uber are widely available with rental gone all-in with a wine list consisting cars or hired drivers recommended for day trips exclusively of Mexican wine. Th e deci- out of town. sion, he says, has confused some cus- tomers who think quality wine must be All travelers returning to the United States must imported. present proof of a negative COVID-19 test to their Yet, as I discovered, his estate-grown airline. In addition to complimentary testing at 2019 sauvignon blanc from Monte Xanic, many hotels, there is also a testing center only a large Mexican producer, was approach- yards from the airport terminal with tests priced able and good. Th ose two qualities were at 450 pesos (about $21) and results delivered by repeated over and over again. email in about 45 minutes. Dennis Lennox writes a monthly travel Puerto Vallarta’s airport is served by all major U.S. column for Th e Epoch Times. carriers, including American, Delta, and United. ESKYSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK

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