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Objectives

• What other types of fabric construction methods exist besides wovens and knits? Chapter 10 • How are they made and what are they used for?

Non-wovens and Other Fabrication Methods

Fabrics from Fibers Non wovens

• Fabrics from Fibers • Tapa cloth – bark – Nonwoven (fiberweb) structures: textile sheet structures made from fibrous webs bonded through use of resins, thermal • Durable nonwovens fusion, or mechanical means • Disposable nonwovens – Properties controlled by fiber content, fiber arrangement, and bonding mechanism • Geotextiles – Web production, fabric production, bonding mechanism

Nonwoven Methods Nonwoven Methods

• Hydroentangled (spun-laced): Similar to • Dry-laid: Fibers arranged in random or spun-bonded, water jets create pattern; oriented arrangement; wipes, wicks, quilt apparel and furnishings. backing, laminating/coating base fabrics. • Wet-laid: Fibers arranged from slurry of fibers and water; laminating/coating bases, wipes, roofing substrate. • Melt-blown: Extruded, broken into short • Spun-bonded: Lay continuous filaments on fibers by high speed air, collected on conveyer belt, fused, heat/pressure bonded; conveyor belt, and bonded; hospital- carpet backing, geotextiles, envelopes, filters, medical uses; battery separators. protective apparel.

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Bonding Mechanisms Needle-Punch Process

• Needling or needle punched: Barbed needles AADB C D mechanically interlock fibers.

• Chemical adhesive: Glues fiber together. (A) Barbed needle, (B) Needle pulling fibers through web, (C) Entangled • Heat: Melts fibers together at overlap. fibers in a web cross section, (D) NeedleNeedle--punchedpunched web

Other Fiber Web Structures Felt

• Fiberfill: batting, wadding, and fiberfill – Characteristics: resilient, lightweight, resist shifting – Types: polyester, down, and others • Fusible fiberwebs • Felt: fibers interlocked; no grain, does not fray or ravel; stiff; weak; craft and industrial uses

Other Fabric from Fibers Fabric from Solution

• Net-like structures: Extrude one or more • Film fiber-forming polymers as a film or – Solution extruded through slit or cast on network of ligaments. hot drum. – Tubular net for packaging fruit and – Fabrics: hot and clammy unless porous vegetables, agricultural nets, and fencing – Uniform in appearance and quality – May be embossed to resemble leather – Water and air impermeable – Soil resistant – Weak and stiff

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Film Types Plain (Nonreinforced Film) • Vinyl films stiffen with dry cleaning and cold. • Smooth, Firm and Dense • Polyurethane films are washable and dry cleanable. – Do not stiffen in cold weather.

Film Types Fabric from Solutions

• Expanded film: Softer, • Foam: plumper, more drapeable, – Airy, springy, and lightweight weaker, less abrasion resistant; – Weak depending on type and weight/thickness less impermeable to air and water. – Lofty; stiff; warm • Supported films – Padding for upholstery, mattresses, and carpeting (coated fabrics): Film attached to woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric. (Note: to right from woven support fabric.)

Fabrics from Yarns Fabrics from Yarns

• Braid: Yarns interlaced lengthwise & diagonally; flat or 3-D; good • : Intermeshed yarns with open space elongation, pliable, curve around edges; apparel trim, furnishings, & between/around solid areas. industrial goods. – Woven, knit, crocheted, netted, bobbin, etc. – Classified by technique & appearance

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Lace Lace Quality

– Hand or machine process • Based on fineness, closeness of ground, and design intricacy • Leaver’s lace or schiffli • Cordonnet or re-embroidered lace with yarn or cord outlining design

Other openwork fabrics Fabrics from Fabrics

• • Composite fabrics: Combine several structures into a single structure. • Hairpin lace • Advantages: Interesting texture; light • Macrame weight & warm; more body; less wrinkling; quick to produce; stable if well done. • Netting • Disadvantages: May separate, off-grain; • differential shrinkage; sags; bulky; stiff.

Composite Fabrics Composite Fabrics (cont.)

• Coated fabrics: Combine • Suede-like fabrics: Needlepunched fabrics of microfibers characteristics of film with textile fabric; film attached by combined with resin coating and nonfibrous polyurethane. – lamination (film adhered to fabric by melting) • Tufted: Yarn stitched onto fabric to create pile-like look. – calendaring (film hot calendered Usually back-coated to lock yarns in place. onto fabric) – coating (fluid hot film applied by – Upholstery: imitation velvet types knife or roll) – Carpet: most common type on market; , face weight, – other methods and grin-through (related to tuft density) • Poromeric fabrics: Very fine, microporous polymer on surface; water vapor permeable; waterproof; windproof, breathable.

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Tufted Carpet Composite Fabrics

• Laminated (bonded): Adhere one or two fabric layers (see coating methods); lightweight, off-grain, differential shrinkage, delamination, glue bleed, or stiffness problems. • Stitch bonded or knit-through: machines use needles to interlace fibers or yarns to lock inlaid yarns in place.

Composite Fabrics Composite Fabrics

• Supported scrim structures • Quilted: Two layers of fabric with – Lightweight nylon scrim sandwiched between two foam layers, fiberweb combined; bulky, warm, fibers adhered to one or both foam layers; cheap, easy care, decorative. durable – Thread qq:osc&uilting: type of stitch & • Fiber-reinforced material: fibers added to resins, metals, or ceramics length affect durability to improve performance – Pinsonic: ultrasonics fuse thermoplastic layers together – Chemical adhesives in pattern for quilted effect

Leather

• Tanned skin/hide of mammal, reptile, fish, bird. • Skin varies in quality, thickness, and grain. • Classification based on animal source. • Tanning: Chemical finish to make skin pliable, water and rot resistant. • Other processes: Bleach, dye, emboss, print, glaze, board, etc. • Care: Leather cleaning method.

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Leather Cross Section Leather Types

• Splitting: top grain, first split, and second split • Suede: brushed • Grain sueded leather (nubuk) napped on grain side

Split Leather Fur

• Skin with hair attached – Quality varies – Characteristics: minimal shedding, firmly attached hairs; soft; pliable; odor-free; long & lustrous guard hair with dense, full underhairs – Care: furrier method; special storage required

Summary Summary

• Fabrics from fibers include disposable and durable fiberwebs, tapa cloth, fiberfill, • Leather does not usually classify as a “fiber” because it is the entire skin of an fusible fiberwebs (interfacing) and felt (true/wool and animal, rather than individual fibers that make a yarn or fabric needlepunched/manufactured fibers). Net-like structures can also be extruded as • The softness of the leather depends on the animal, the section of skin used and the the polymer is formed. processing applied to the leather – Fiberwebs are created by entangling the fibers through dry laid, wet laid, spun bonded, hydro entangled, or melt blown. • Leather can be split to create suede and nubuck – Theyary are fu sed t ogethe r b y needlepcpunchin g, ccaasora(g)chemical adhesive, or heat (melting) • Fur comes from the pelt, or skin of an animal with the fur still attached. Again, this • Fabrics from Solutions include vinyl film, polyurethane film, expanded film, supported does not classify as a “Fiber” as the entire skin is used, unless the fur is separated film (coated fabrics), and foam. from the body of the animal by shearing or brushing (as with Angora, Camel, wool, • Fabrics from yarns include netting, braid, Lace, Crochet, Hairpin Lace, Macramé and etc.) Tatting. • Composite fabrics use multiple techniques combined and include coated fabrics, poromeric fabrics, tufted fabrics, suede-like fabrics, stitch-bonded or knit-through fabrics, laminated fabrics, quilted fabrics, scrim supported structures and fiber- reinforced materials

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