©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to

Remote, beautiful and the South Pacifi c ...... 2 Welcome to culturally hospitable, these oft-dreamed-of islands are the South the place to enjoy the world’s Map ...... 4 PaciÀ c whitest sands between your toes and its clearest waters 15 Top Experiences ...... 6 at your doorstep. Need to Know ...... 14 COUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY • The original If You Like...... 16 • Comprehensive • Adventurous

Month by Month ...... 19 actually go. This is a great gift to those The Dream who book a ticket to this magical place The South PaciÀ c is synonymous with that generations have dreamed about. paradise. This lofty reputation began when the À rst European explorers re- Diversity turned to their home shores with tales of a heaven on earth, where the soil was fertile, Even the biggest geography buՖ s crinkle Itineraries ...... 22 life was simple and people were beauti- their brows when it comes to this many ful. And while these island nations have islands. On a map all those little dots look modernised since that time, their allure the same and their many-vowelled names hasn’t changed. You’ll still À nd the bluest get lost on the tongue. But get to know waters, smiling bronzed locals in Á owery these places and you’ll À nd diversity that fabrics and humid, gardenia-scented air. would be À tting for any expanse of this But what’s most amazing is how refresh- size. Yes, there are Polynesian nations Which Island? ...... 26 and Melanesian nations but within these ingly untainted by tourism most regions are. Blame it on their remoteness or the headings are myriad languages, customs, price of getting here but few people who histories and landscapes that make each South Pacifi c Diving ...... 31 fantasise about the South PaciÀ c ever island unique. No, it’s not just a homog- Travel with Children ...... 37 Countries at a Glance .... 39 GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

and Welcomes » Coconut palms overhanggarland an Aitof Á owers is one of the most Easter Cook Islands ( 222imple ) yet beautiful oՖ erings on the t and no one gives out more of these Island he people of the PaciÀ c. Loudness rashness are out, subtle hospitality History 333 Archaeology & Hiking, Caves & Luxuriousenuine goodwill are in. If they could countries ou the moon they would, so please Outdoors 33 History Volcanoes Retreatsask for it. There’s a selÁ ess beauty and welcomes that feels untainted by Scenery 33 Palm thatch doesn’t pre- Lava and limestone form Opulence is hard w odern world. It doesn’t pour out with PHRASEBOOKS at a serve well and missionaries conical or jagged peaks, South Pacire Àbut c. rather Ev comes out slowly and destroyed anything Pagan or caves of stalactites and needs to beally imporin return for a smile. Women from a m village on Tanna, Vanuatu, right Open-Air naughty, so archaeological stalagmites and other- control and wee glance Museum remains are the exception worldly lava tubes cut constant attention Easter Island is rather than the rule. What’s by subterranean rivers... cyclone can wipe o left, however, is straight out and then there’s Vanuatu’s of work in minu a mind-boggling of an Indiana Jones adven- volcanoes. Hiking all of this when it’s done ri open-air museum, ture. WWII buՖ s will also is as taxing as it is thrilling. luxury can’t be bett with a wealth of À nd some happiness. It would take a lifetime to visit pre-European Tanna, Ambae, Ambrym St Régis (French Poly all of the vast South Pacific so archaeological re- Marquesas Islands (French (Vanuatu) Head to Tanna’s An exclusive bubble w Polynesia) Giant moss-covered active volcano by 4WD, explore elegance that lets the mains, all shrouded chances are you’ll have to pick tiki ( d t t ) ( 406) A b ’ t l k hik k(389 and choose. Most countries with a palpable historical aura. have regions that are ideal for families, romance, diving and Outdoor Adventures culture so the trick is to see Outdoorsy types what else sparks your fancy. will be in seventh Like history? Try Easter Island heaven, with hik- or the Marquesas Islands of ing, diving, cycling, snorkelling and French Polynesia. Want to horse riding widely swim with whales? Head to available. Looking for other travel resources? Tonga or French Polynesia. Dramatic Vegetarians and spicy food Landscapes lovers will enjoy Fiji while meat Hold on to your eaters will revel in the South hat and lift your jaw oՖ the Á oor as American beef on Easter you stand on the

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 535 Learn about the big picture, so you SOUTH PACIFIC can make sense of what you see

population per SOUTH SOLOMON South Pacifi c Today ...... 536 PACIFIC ISLANDS

History ...... 538 ≈ 20 people Environmental Issues .... 552 South PaciÀ c Culture, Lifestyle & Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE

Religion ...... 556 History Mumblin gs Around the Kava Bowl For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, The Great Polynesian Migration is one of the world’s The PaciÀ c Islands are a varied bunch and in the ocean’s yet mysterious historical events. Imagine families an not all kava and cocktails. This region has a mindset all of i advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Island Life ...... 561 chickens, dogs, pigs, vegies and the kids into canoes an at once sleepy, stubborn and ingenious. Despite the is an chapters unknown, empty blue. Then they found islands, lots of th little violence or danger, corruption is rife. Old customs con lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine tial navigation as well as now-forgotten methods of read is an ers face a rapidly modernising world. tions, wave formations and bird Á ight patterns. ou’ll hear mumblings about Fiji and the Solomon Is Art & Infl uence ...... 567 More than 3000 years after the people we now kn sians and Polynesians dominated the PaciÀ c, European achieved the marine technology to ‘discover’ these tro i Coconuts & Kava ...... 571 the late 1700s, explorer’s tales of the idyllic way of life of the landscapes turned the region into a dream des STAY IN TOUCH ro e that, in many ways, retains the same allure toda the majority of Europeans who reached the South Pac lonelyplanet.com/contact 1800s were sailors and traders who brou ht disease, al AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-774-9 facebook.com/ 99825 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 797749 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

south-pacific-5-cover.indd 2 5/07/2012 10:39:41 AM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 42 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Equator

American Samoa Samoa Solomon p250 p295 Islands p316 Vanuatu Rarotonga & the p472 Cook Islands Tahiti & French p196 Polynesia New Fiji p346 Caledonia p60 p145 Tropic of Capricorn Tonga p430 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) p44 S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N

Other Pacifi c Islands 526

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 575 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ...... 576 Transport ...... 582 ta Health Da vom Health ...... 589 a b e health risk to travellers to in France, but remember to or b e PaciÀ c region is low. The obtain the European Health lomon Islands and Vanuatu Insurance Card (EHIC) Eo Language ...... 591 are the one serious health before leaving home. Me zard: malaria. Elsewhere New Zealand Travellers Ri main danger is from mos- You may have free access to Po o-borne dengue fever. public but not private facili- Index ...... 602 ties in the Cook Islands. S ORE YOU GO ning before depar- Map Legend ...... 614 arly for preexist- Required save trouble Vaccinations ated letter For all countries b vaccina

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Celeste Brash, Brett Atkinson, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Jayne D’Arcy, Virginia Jealous, Craig McLachlan Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

EASTER ISLAND Nacula ...... 108 Kuto ...... 184 (RAPA NUI) ...... 44 Nanuya Lailai ...... 108 Baie d’Oro & Around . . . . .185 HANGA ROA ...... 46 Matacawalevu & Yaqeta . . 110 RAROTONGA & THE PARQUE NACIONAL Sawa-i-Lau ...... 110 RAPA NUI...... 54 OVALAU & THE COOK ISLANDS . . . .196 LOMAIVITI ISLANDS ...... 111 RAROTONGA ...... 199 FIJI ...... 60 Ovalau ...... 111 Avarua ...... 203 VITI LEVU ...... 64 Caqalai ...... 114 AITUTAKI ...... 221 Nadi ...... 64 Leleuvia ...... 114 PALMERSTON ...... 227 Lautoka ...... 77 VANUA LEVU ...... 115 ’ATIU ...... 228 Southern Viti Levu Savusavu & Around ...... 115 MA’UKE ...... 232 & the Coral Coast ...... 79 Namenalala ...... 122 MITIARO ...... 234 Suva ...... 88 Labasa ...... 122 Viti Levu’s Kings Road . . . . 96 MANGAIA ...... 237 TAVEUNI ...... 124 NORTHERN GROUP . . . . .240 MAMANUCA GROUP ...... 99 Waiyevo, Somosomo & South Sea Island ...... 99 Around ...... 125 Manihiki ...... 240 Bounty Island ...... 99 Matei...... 128 Rakahanga ...... 240 Beachcomber Island . . . . . 99 KADAVU ...... 132 Penrhyn ...... 240 Pukapuka ...... 241 Treasure Island ...... 100 LAU GROUP ...... 135 Suwarrow ...... 241 Vomo ...... 101 Vanua Balavu ...... 135 Navini ...... 101 ROTUMA ...... 135 Malololailai ...... 101 SAMOA ...... 250 ’UPOLU ...... 252 Malolo ...... 102 NEW CALEDONIA . . . 145 Castaway Island ...... 103 Apia...... 253 GRANDE TERRE ...... 147 Mana ...... 103 Manono ...... 273 Noumea ...... 148 Matamanoa ...... 104 Apolima ...... 274 Boulouparis ...... 164 Monuriki ...... 104 SAVAI’I ...... 274 La Foa & Around ...... 164 Tokoriki...... 104 Salelologa Bourail & Around ...... 166 & the East Coast ...... 275 Namotu & Tavarua ...... 104 LOYALTY ISLANDS ...... 172 YASAWA GROUP ...... 105 Maré ...... 173 AMERICAN Kuata ...... 105 Lifou ...... 176 SAMOA ...... 295 Wayasewa ...... 105 Ouvéa ...... 178 TUTUILA ...... 297 Waya ...... 106 ÎLE DES PINS ...... 181 MANU’A ISLANDS ...... 308 Naviti & Around ...... 107 Vao ...... 183 Ofu & Olosega ...... 308 Tavewa ...... 108 Ta’u ...... 309 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

SOLOMON ’Ua Huka ...... 411 EPI ...... 489 ISLANDS ...... 316 ’Ua Pou ...... 412 TANNA ...... 490 GUADALCANAL ...... 320 Hiva Oa ...... 413 Mt Yasur & East Tanna . . 492 Honiara ...... 320 Fatu Hiva ...... 417 MALEKULA ...... 496 CENTRAL PROVINCE . . . . 327 THE AUSTRAL ISLANDS . .417 The Dog’s Head ...... 498 Florida (Nggela) Islands . .327 Rurutu ...... 418 Lakatoro ...... 499 Savo ...... 328 Tubuai ...... 418 Uripiv & Uri ...... 499 WESTERN PROVINCE . . . .328 Raivavae ...... 418 Lamap ...... 500 Marovo Lagoon ...... 328 THE GAMBIER The Maskelynes ...... 500 ARCHIPELAGO ...... 418 Munda ...... 332 AMBRYM ...... 501 Around West SANTO ...... 504 New Georgia ...... 333 TONGA ...... 430 Luganville & Around . . . . 505 Gizo ...... 333 TONGATAPU ...... 433 Ambae ...... 513 MALAITA ...... 338 Nuku’alofa ...... 434 REMOTE NORTHERN Auki & Around ...... 338 ’EUA ...... 443 ISLANDS ...... 514 Langa Langa Lagoon . . . . 340 HA’APAI GROUP ...... 445 Maewo ...... 514 Lifuka Group ...... 447 Gaua (Santa Maria) ...... 514 TAHITI & FRENCH VAVA’U GROUP ...... 451 Vanua Lava ...... 514 POLYNESIA ...... 346 Neiafu ...... 452 Motalava & Rah ...... 514 TAHITI ...... 350 Southern Vava’u Islands . . 459 Torres Islands ...... 514 Pape’ete ...... 350 Eastern Vava’u Islands . . 460 PENTECOST ...... 515 Tahiti Iti ...... 360 NIUA GROUP ...... 460 MO’OREA ...... 362 Niuatoputapu ...... 461 OTHER PACIFIC HUAHINE ...... 371 Tafahi ...... 461 ISLANDS ...... 526 RA’IATEA & TAHA’A ...... 376 Niuafo’ou ...... 461 Niue ...... 526 Pitcairn Island ...... 527 BORA BORA ...... 384 VANUATU ...... 472 Tokelau ...... 529 MAUPITI ...... 392 EFATE ...... 476 Tuvalu ...... 530 TUAMOTU ISLANDS . . . . .395 Port Vila & Around ...... 476 Wallis & Futuna ...... 532 Rangiroa...... 397 White Sands Beach . . . . . 486 Fakarava ...... 401 Eton ...... 486 Tikehau ...... 403 Takara ...... 487 Manihi...... 405 Siviri ...... 487 MARQUESAS ISLANDS . .406 Havannah Harbour ...... 487 Nuku Hiva ...... 407 Nguna & Pele ...... 488 › South Pacific 160ºE 170ºE 180º M I C R O N Tarawa International E Atoll S Date Line Fiji I Eat curryNAURU with GILBERT A Samoa your kava (p61) ISLANDS Sleep in a traditional fale (p269) fale KIRIBATI

NEW GEORGIA Bougainville ISLANDS Choiseul S O L O M O N Santa Isabel SOLOMON S E A Funafuti Malaita ISLANDS Atoll M HONIARA SANTA TUVALU 10ºS E Guadalcanal Makira CRUZ Rennell ISLANDS L Bellona A WALLIS & SAMOA N FUTUNA E (France) Wallis Savai'i S Futuna Island VANUATU I Espiritu Santo A Vanua Vava'u Pentecost FIJI Levu VAVA'U Malekula LAU GROUP PORT GROUP Efate HA'APAI NEW VILA Vitu Levu SUVA CALEDONIA Erromango Tanna GROUP (France) KADAVU LOYALTY Mt Yasur GROUP ISLANDS NUKU’ALOFA Grande Terre Tongatapu NOUMEA TONGA

Solomon Islands Dive on WWII ships (p326) Vanuatu Brisbane Climb Mt Yasur, an active volcano (p492) Norfolk AUSTRALIA Island (Australia) Tonga Lord Howe Swim with humpback Island whales (p452) (Australia)

New Caledonia Melanesian chic in Noumea (p148)

Auckland

North 40ºS Island Tropic of Capricorn NEW ZEALAND T A S M A N S E A WELLINGTON International Date Line South 170ºE Island 160ºE 180º Top Experiences › 170ºW 160ºW 150ºW 140ºW N O R T H P A C I F I C O C E A N American Samoa Christmas Island 0 1000 km Paddle Pago Pago 0 500 miles L Equator Harbor (p303) I N The external boundaries on Jarvis Island E A this map are approximate. PHOENIX (USA) They are only to be used as a general I guide to the political boundaries. ISLANDS KIRIBATI S I E S O N L M I C R A N

D

S MARQUESAS TOKELAU ISLANDS (New Zealand) Tahiti & French Nuku Hiva Polynesia 10ºS International Date Line Uber-fast hip shaking (p357) NORTHERN COOK ISLANDS APIA PAGO FRENCH POLYNESIA (France) PAGO Rangiroa Tutuila COOK ISLANDS Atoll AMERICAN SOCIETY 'Upolu SAMOA ISLANDS (USA) TUAMOTU P PAPE'ETE ISLANDS O L Bora Y Bora Tahiti N NIUE SOUTHERN E COOK ISLANDS S 20ºN Rarotonga AVARUA I A Rurutu GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO

AUSTRAL Tropic of Capricorn ISLANDS

Rarotonga & the Cook Islands See Inset Magical outer islands (p240)

30ºS

S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N

130ºW 120ºW 110ºW

20ºN GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N Easter Island Majestic moai moai (p56)

Mangareva Henderson Island 40ºS PITCAIRN Tropic of Capricorn Pitcairn ISLAND GROUP FRENCH Island POLYNESIA (UK) (France) HANGA ROA Same Scale as Main Map Easter Island (Chile)

170ºW 160ºW 150ºW 140ºW OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Celeste Brash Coordinating Author, Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa, Other Pacifi c Islands Celeste fi rst visited French Polynesia in 1991 and moved there in 1995. Her fi rst fi ve years were on a remote atoll and the next 10 on Tahiti. Throughout this time she’s travelled as far as New Zealand to the west, Easter Island and Pitcairn Island to the east and many places in between. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales books and her travel articles have appeared in publications including the LA Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides but considers the South Pacifi c her speciality. She recently moved to Portland, Oregon, and often complains of the cold.

Brett Atkinson Rarotonga & the Cook Islands From his home in Auckland, Brett’s travelled to many of the island nations in his South Pacifi c backyard. For this extended research trip to the Cook Islands, he explored the underground caves of ’Atiu, scootered and snorkelled around Aitutaki, and uncovered local foodie treats at Rarotonga’s weekly market. Venturing to far-fl ung and friendly Ma’uke and Mitiaro were other absolute highlights. See www.brettt-atkinson.net for the latest details of his travels and freelance writing.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Diving, Easter Island, Solomon Islands, Tahiti & French Polynesia Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard Polynesia lover and diving instructor. He has explored 28 islands in the fi ve archipelagos. On this trip he searched for the most idyllic motu, the best manta ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the tastiest poisson cru, the most romantic spots and the best-value accommodation. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and writes for travel and dive magazines.

Jayne D’Arcy New Caledonia, Vanuatu Jayne started her travels with overland Asia trips, but has discovered that overland in the South Pacifi c can off er up similar diversity and excitement (with more French imports). Aside from the French infl uence, Jayne digs the coral reefs, astounding lagoons and serious Survivor opportu- nities that the area has in abundance. When she’s not researching for Lonely Planet (this is her 17th guide), Jayne writes for the Age in Victoria, Australia.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – October 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 774 9 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Virginia Jealous Fiji Virginia lived, worked and travelled widely in the Pacifi c from 2004 to 2006, and contributed to Lonely Planet’s previous Fiji and South Pacific guides. Since then she’s been looking for a reason to go back, and was very happy to share a few kava sessions with old friends while shamelessly picking their brains about the current Fiji scene. She was also reassured to fi nd that, despite the vagaries of politics and economics, Fiji welcomes travellers as warmly as ever.

Craig McLachlan Tonga An island addict from way back, Craig has covered the islands of Greece to Okinawa to Tonga for Lonely Planet. His fi rst foray to Tonga was as a teenager when his father, an architect, designed a resort island in the kingdom and Craig experi- enced his fi rst kava session. He’s never looked back. A Kiwi who markets himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i, speaks Japanese and has written several books. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com. 22

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a

aries Itineraries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

VANUATU FRENCH FIJI POLYNESIA Yasawas Bora Bora #• #• COOK #• Port Vila #_ Mamanucas #• #•#_ Suva ISLANDS Mo'orea #_

Nausori Aitutaki#• É #• É Pape'ete Highlands Mt Yasur #• #_ Rarotonga Noumea

É NEW É CALEDONIA

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

NEW ZEALAND

Two Months

Le Grande TourItineraries/Le Grande Tour

Fly to Fiji, the South Pacifi c’s biggest hub and catch a boat to the Yasawas or Mamanucas where countless islets off er fantastic digs and brilliant beaches. Back on Viti Levu, take a bus to the Nausori Highlands to experience traditional Fiji and then go onto Suva, where shopping malls and markets coexist in a distinctly Pacifi c style. Fly to Vanuatu to join a kava session in a nakamal (men’s clubhouse) around Port Vila and see Mt Yasur glow in the dark on a night visit to one of the world’s most accessible volcanoes. Your next stop will be Noumea, fronting the world’s second largest coral reef lagoon. Pacifi c cultures are showcased at the wonderful Tjibaou Cultural Centre and don’t miss an outrigger canoe (pirogue) trip around Île des Pins. Keep saying bonjour for French Polynesia. Start with some hip-shaking nightlife in Pape’ete. Take the ferry to Mo’orea for hiking, snorkelling with stingrays and dolphin watching or fl y to Bora Bora to live it up with the jet-setters in an over-the-water bungalow. Finish your trip with the fun nightlife and restaurants on Rarotonga and unwind by Aitutaki’s idyllic lagoon. 23

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

SOLOMON AMERCIAN Marquesas ISLANDS SAMOA Islands #• #•

SAMOA Pago Pago

É É Apia Harbour Huahine; #_ #• Raiatea;

FIJI É #• É Bora Bora Savusavu #• Tuamotus

#• VANUATU É #• #_ #• Pape'ete

Suwarrow ITINERARIES É #• #• Grande #• Vava'u Rarotonga FRENCH Terre Group TONGA POLYNESIA NEW COOK CALEDONIA ISLANDS

AUSTRALIA SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

NEW ZEALAND

Six Months

Sailing The South Pacifi cItineraries/Sailing The South Pacifi c

The southeast trade wind makes this trip fairly predictable if sailed westward out- side the December-to-March cyclone season. In fact the route is considered so easy by cruising standards that it’s been dubbed the ‘coconut milk run’. The Marquesas Islands are the targets after a stop at the Galapagos Islands or Hawai’i. After the majestic peaks of the Marquesas where you can hopefully fi ll the coff ers with fruit, the barren but beautiful Tuamotus, the largest group of atolls in the world, are next. This is the time to put down your daiquiri and pay attention – this is known as the Dangerous Archipelago and it has wrecks on the reefs to prove it. Pape’ete in Tahiti becomes the natural hub to switch crew, stock up on Hinano beer and get a fi x of civilisation. Cruising the Society Islands from here to the lagoons of Huahine, Raiatea and Bora Bora is a highlight, but an expensive one. Leaving Bora Bora, drop in on Suwarrow before deciding on Samoa, Rarotonga or Tonga. Rarotonga is the closest stop from French Polynesia and the sailors who do stop here often cite it as one of their favourite stops. Pago Pago Harbor in American Samoa is a good place to restock and run errands in scenic surrounds while Apia in nearby Samoa is less organised but has a bit more soul. The jewel-like islands of the Vava’u Group in Tonga are hard to pass up. Depending on your choice of hiding place during the cyclone season (many yachts head to New Zealand), you could extend the trip by exploring Fiji, including the favourite yachty anchorages at Savusavu, or casting off for French Melanesia and the never-ending lagoon around Grande Terre in New Caledonia. Vanuatu gets you to wilder terrain, including volcanoes and the culture that invented bungee jumping, which is only mild preparation for the numerous adventurous islands of the Solomon Islands.

24

SOLOMON SOUTH PACIFIC ISLANDS Vonavona OCEAN Gizo Lagoon #• #•#• #• Malaita PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Uepi Island Apia

SAMOA FRENCH

É #_ AMERICAN FIJI É SAMOA POLYNESIA Taveuni VANUATU #• Huahine #• Vava'u #_ Port Vila #_ Nadi #•#_ Group Pape'ete Suva #• Aitutaki #• Mt Yasur #• É #• Ma'uke;

#• Rarotonga #• 'Atiu Grande É #• ITINERARIES #_ É Terre Nuku'alofa É Noumea Mangaia TONGA NEW CALEDONIA COOK ISLANDS

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

Polynesian Odyssey Melanesian Meander NEW ZEALAND

One Month One Month

Melanesian MeanderItineraries/Melanesian Meander Polynesian OdysseyItineraries/Polynesian Odyssey

Start in Nadi and fl y to Taveuni for Start in Apia, Samoa, to visit the Fiji’s best hiking along the coast at dreamy Robert Louis Stevenson Lavena then dive walls of willowing Museum before taking the bus or a soft corals at the Rainbow Reef. Go car around ’Upolu and spend at least back to Viti Levu via cosmopolitan Suva and one night on the beach in a traditional fale. chow down at an Indo-Fijian curry house. Take the ferry to Savai’i to visit underground Next fl y to New Caledonia’s capital cave tunnels, lava fi elds and glowing white Noumea, which blends Melanesia with beaches before trying to fi nd the forest- French chic. Classy restaurants and boutique engulfed and forgotten Pulemelei Mound, shopping aside, don’t miss exploring the Polynesia’s largest ancient monument. vast main island, Grande Terre, with its Fly to Nuku’alofa in the Kingdom of mangroves, silent forests and barren vistas. Tonga, via Fiji. See the Royal Palace (not Fly to Vanuatu’s colourful Port Vila with open to commoners) on the way to lively its rich English and French colonial history. Talamahu Market. Mu’a (Lapaha) is rich in Swim in the pools of Mele-Maat Cascades archaeological ruins. Head to the Ha’apai and have a few shells of kava before trying Group for beachside living in a thatched fale some of Port Vila’s restaurants and night- or the Vava’u Group for active adventures life. Go to see the active Mt Yasur volcano like sea kayaking, surfi ng, caving and cycling. and take the two-day trek across Malekula’s You’ll also have to reach the Cook Islands’ Dog’s Head, past the cannibal site, caves and capital Rarotonga via Fiji. Once in the traditional villages. On to Pentecost where Cooks, walk the cross-island track and snor- yam farmers invented bungee jumping. kel at sublime Muri Beach. Catch a plane to Then Espiritu Santo for world-class diving. Aitutaki to see its exquisite lagoon. Explore Ride a boat through the Solomon Islands’ the caves of the makatea islands of ’Atiu, stunning Vonavona Lagoon, snorkel or Mangaia and Ma’uke. dive off Uepi Island and chill out in Gizo. Fly to Pape’ete, the chic capital of the Travel to Malaita where people summon French Pacifi c, and lastly squeeze in a visit to sharks and live on artifi cial islands. sleepy Huahine and the Polynesian spiritual capital of Raiatea.

25

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Apia Pago Pago Tu a m ot u

SAMOA FRENCH Archipelago É #_ #• Harbor AMERICAN É POLYNESIA SAMOA #•

#• 'Upolu; Vava'u É Ya s awa s Aunu'u COOK #• Islands Pape'ete ISLANDS #_ Kadavu #• Aitutaki #• ITINERARIES

É 'Atiu É É

#• É #• Rarotonga #• Nuku'alofa #• TONGA Mangaia #• Rurutu #• Raivavae

The Wild East Westside Island Hop

Three weeks Three weeks

Westside Island Hop The Wild East Itineraries/The Wild East

Itineraries/ It’s ridiculously easy to island hop This is an island galaxy far, far away, the western central region of the even from the rest of the South Pacifi c South Pacifi c from Australia or so while you’re here, make the most New Zealand. Start with a week to of it. First fl y to Rarotonga to swim 10 days in Fiji exploring the blissful small in the dreamy lagoon and hike the island’s islands and beaches of the Yasawas before many inland trails. Take a side trip either to heading off the beaten path a few days to kayak the nooks and crannies of Aitutaki’s dive, hike and relax in an eco-responsible turquoise lagoon, go birdwatching on ’Atiu resort on Kadavu. or visit the mysterious limestone burial Fly to Tonga for the next fi ve days to a caves on Mangaia. week, with a short stop in Nuku’alofa before Take the short Air Tahiti fl ight to heading for the Vava’u Islands for whale Pape’ete and quickly fl y out to either the watching (between June and November) Tuamotu Archipelago for diving, snorkel- and kayaking to deserted beaches. ling and la vida coral atoll or to the Austral Spend the fi nal week or more in the Islands: Rurutu for whale watching and Samoas, driving around ’Upolu for a few cave exploration or Raivavae for traditional days to fi nd empty white-sand beaches island culture, hiking and scenery to rival and enjoying the friendly bustle of Apia. Bora Bora’s. Spend the last two to three days around If you’re not ready for the adventure to the glorious Pago Pago Harbor in Ameri- end yet, continue your journey eastward can Samoa, where tall mountains plunge to with a long fl ight to Easter Island. a mix of colonial architecture and fi shing industry humbleness. While here, make sure to visit the spectacularly placed traditional villages of remote north bays of the island as well as walking around the relaxing and near car-free isle of Aunu’u. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’