TEXAS HISTORICAL COMMISSION

AFRICAN AMERICANS IN TEXAS: A Lasting Legacy

A GUIDE FOR HERITAGE TRAVELERS

www.africanamericansintexas.com 1 Front cover: Stained-glass window by Jean Lacy, Trinity United Methodist Church, Houston (see page 49); Back cover: Isadore Yett, longtime member of Mt. Horeb Baptist Church, Blanco (see page 36).

2 AFRICAN AMERICANS IN TEXAS: A Lasting Legacy

www.africanamericansintexas.com 3 REAL STORIES FOR THE ROAD Explore the vast richness of freedmen’s communities, Rosenwald schools, family cemeteries, civil rights archives, historic neighborhoods and stops along the “Chitlin’ Circuit” with this travel guide’s mobile companion. The “African Americans in Texas” mobile tour features audio, video, additional historic images and optional nearby points of interest based on your location. It's one of several thematic tours in our Texas Time Travel Tours mobile app, which is available at www.texastimetravel.com. TexasTimeTravel.com is your statewide resource for exploring Texas’ historic and cultural treasures. Use our Plan Your Adventure tool, travel themes, events calendar, maps and travel guides to find and learn about historic, cultural and natural attractions across the 10 heritage trail regions of the Texas Historical Commission’s Texas Heritage Trails Program.

The "African Americans in Texas" mobile tour is available at www.texastimetravel.com.

All photos are by Randy Mallory or Texas Historical Commission staff unless otherwise credited.

© 2016 Texas Historical Commission

09/16—200K

4 TABLETABLE OF OF CONTENTS CONTENTS

5 I INTRODUCTION Journey through African American Culture and Heritage in Texas 10 I TIMELINE 14 I ABOUT THIS GUIDE Texas Heritage Trails Program and Map 16 I TEXAS BRAZOS TRAIL REGION

18 I Spotlight: Education 20 I Spotlight: Bessie Coleman 21 I TEXAS FOREST TRAIL REGION

24 I Spotlight: Freedmen’s Communities 25 I TEXAS FORTS TRAIL REGION

28 I Spotlight: The Buffalo Soldiers 30 I TEXAS HILL COUNTRY TRAIL REGION

39 I Spotlight: Agriculture 40 I TEXAS INDEPENDENCE TRAIL REGION

44 I Spotlight: Barbara Jordan 51 I Spotlight: Baseball 56 I Spotlight: Texas Jazz and Blues 57 I TEXAS LAKES TRAIL REGION 64 I TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION 67 I TEXAS PECOS TRAIL REGION 70 I TEXAS PLAINS TRAIL REGION

71 I Spotlight: Ranching 72 I TEXAS TROPICAL TRAIL REGION

The cities and sites in this guide are organized by the 10 Texas Heritage Trail Regions. Learn more and download or order other travel guides at www.texastimetravel.com.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 3 44 www.thc.texas.govwww.thc.texas.gov Journey through African American culture and heritage in Texas­— an experience that includes hardships and triumphs, valor and determination, influence and change. Beginning in 1528 with Estevanico (Estevan), a Spanish slave who was the first documented African-born person to traverse Texas, people of African descent have greatly influenced our state’s development through numerous political, economic and ideological contributions. By the mid-1700s, Spanish settlement in what This travel guide would become the state of attempts to capture Texas included permanent the essence of this communities, a number of important story and missions and, less commonly, enrich lives through presidios (fortifications an exploration into providing protection for nearby African American missions). African heritage history in Texas. during the early part of the Spanish period was In 1821, under Mexican represented by biracial people rule, free individuals of African (typically of European and descent were more readily African descent), some of accepted and many prospered. whom were free, along with Mexico outlawed slavery in a relatively smaller number 1829, but exempted Texas of imported slaves. to encourage economic After 1803, when the U.S. development. By 1830, acquired Louisiana, some Mexican President Anastacio slaves fled across the border to Bustamante halted the Spanish Texas seeking freedom importation of slaves by and opportunity. These former Anglo settlers; however, slaves settled predominately in many settlers bypassed this East Texas and made the best decree by making their slaves living available to them, despite indentured servants for life. racial adversity.

Background: A wall panel shows William B. Travis and his slave, Joe, running during the battle with Mexican forces, the Alamo, San Antonio (see page 52).

www.africanamericansintexas.comwww.africanamericansintexas.com 5 Buffalo Soldier reenactors engaged in a firing exhibit for a school group, Fort Concho, San Angelo (see page 27).

Although free individuals The status of African Americans of African heritage received deteriorated sharply during the liberties under Mexican law, many nine years of the Republic, when fought with the Texians (the their lives were defined by slave term used to describe residents codes and a constitution that of Texas before annexation) did not grant them full rights as against Mexico during the Texas citizens—a situation that did not Revolution. Many historians change drastically when Texas believe these free persons of joined the Union in 1845. African descent joined the cause In 1861, Texas joined the to protect their status among the Confederacy and slavery Anglo settlers. Amid the growing continued as a backbone of the number of slaves held by the state’s war economy. Many Texians, some resisted captivity African Americans served on in passive ways, such as retaining the battlefield and helped build aspects of former African cultures. forts. Union soldiers of the Others escaped to freedom. 62nd U.S. Colored Infantry fought Samuel McCullough, Jr., a free Confederate soldiers near individual of African heritage, was Brownsville in May 1865 among the first Texians wounded at the Battle of Palmito Ranch— in the conflict during the seizure one month after the surrender of Goliad in 1835. People of of Robert E. Lee’s army at African descent also fought at Appomattox. Freedom from San Jacinto, helping Texas earn slavery came with Lincoln’s its freedom from Mexico in 1836. Emancipation Proclamation in

6 www.thc.texas.gov ratify the 14th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, which provided equal protection under the law for all citizens. The state legislature and several cities limited the civil rights and economic options of newly freed men and women by adopting restrictions known as the Black Codes that included the prohibition of office-holding, jury service and racial intermarriage. Several organizations, including the federal Freedmen’s Bureau and many religious organizations, Texas has many Buffalo attempted to provide education, Soldier-related sites. Look agricultural training and other for the Buffalo Soldier symbol in the assistance, but were met with site descriptions to follow the Buffalo much resistance from white Soldier trail of history through Texas. Texans. Racist, vigilante groups like the Ku Klux Klan were very active during this period. Federal intervention, including the imposition of military rule in 1867, eliminated the Black Codes and ushered in an era of substantial contributions by African Americans. Texas was With emancipation, officially readmitted to the U.S. freed slaves established in March 1870, one of the last of settlements throughout the former Confederate states to the state, as freedmen reenter the Union. At the 1868–69 and their families sought state constitutional convention, to start new lives. where 10 African Americans served as delegates, the adopted 1863, but African Americans in constitution (later replaced Texas were not made aware of by the current 1876 constitution) their freedom until June 19, protected civil rights, established 1865—now commemorated as the state’s first public education Juneteenth. Immediately, freed system and extended voting slaves established settlements rights to all men. Photographs throughout the state, as the of most of the 52 African freedmen and their families Americans who served in sought to start new lives. the Texas Senate, House The Reconstruction Era of Representatives and two (1865–1874) following the Civil constitutional conventions War was particularly challenging between 1868 and 1900 can for African Americans in Texas. An be seen in the south lobby of all-white constitutional convention the Texas Capitol. in 1866 denied suffrage even for literate African Americans, and the state legislature refused to

www.africanamericansintexas.com 7 Meanwhile, both before for bravery “above and beyond and after the Civil War, the U.S. the call of duty.” government constructed a series Churches have played a of fortifications to protect settlers significant role in Texas’ African in the West from American American culture, with many Indians and others who resisted serving as anchors for the their advance. Many of these neighborhoods that developed frontier forts were protected by around them. These churches African Americans known as were often forces for positive Buffalo Soldiers, a name given change by adopting and by American Indians because persistently advocating social of the similarity of the curly hair causes. This was evident in of both the buffalo and African the struggle for education as American troopers. Some of these churches established some of far-flung and isolated posts were the first schools and colleges also home to the Black Seminole for African Americans in Texas. Scouts, descendants of early Colleges, such as Wiley College African Americans who joined in Marshall, were established by Seminole Indian tribes in Florida churches to advance the cause to escape slavery and were of higher education. In addition to recruited by the U.S. Army church-built schools, a number of because of their exceptional facilities were created through a tracking skills. Although Buffalo collaborative community effort, Soldiers and Black Seminole where African Americans pulled Scouts received little respect and together to build their own schools even less admiration from the and hire teachers. All of these society they sought to protect, learning institutions have served they served with distinction, and as sources of education and pride 22 were recipients of the Medal for area residents, remaining as of Honor—the U.S.’ highest treasured today as they were in military decoration, awarded the past.

8 www.thc.texas.gov Segregation could not journalists, community groups withstand the resolve and individuals joined together to of the Civil Rights tear down the unjust boundaries Movement. imposed upon them. These hard- fought battles won members of African Americans, both the African American community a urban and rural, carved out a more equal place in a society that sense of place and security in had long denied them basic rights. the formation of districts and The African American neighborhoods in a segregated, contribution to Texas history has oppressive American society. not been fully documented, but As in the rest of the country, a long and proud legacy has African Americans in Texas undeniably shaped today’s Lone were drawn to large cities during Star State mystique. It is through the 20th century. Rapid industrial- all Texans’ continued preservation ization created jobs, leading to the efforts that the heritage of this decline of many rural communities great state will be kept alive. when younger residents sought In this travel guide and its opportunities in urban areas. companion mobile tour (found Although African American at www.texastimetravel.com), society had been kept separate the Texas Historical Commission through years of entrenched presents only a glimpse into those cultural norms and the use of Jim pivotal events, historic locations Crow laws—state and local laws and cultural landscapes captured enacted between 1876 and 1965 by historians and scholars. While that mandated segregation in some facets of this history have all public facilities—segregation been lost, more will certainly be could not withstand the resolve uncovered over time. The rich of the Civil Rights Movement. legacy left by previous African Having grown tired of second- American generations is an class status, African American inheritance of real stories and educators, congregations, real places that define the history of Texas.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 9 AFRICAN AMERICANS IN TEXAS: A Lasting Legacy TIMELINE

Churches have been historical pillars of African American society, providing refuge, community, hope and social advocacy. Above: Congregation of Sweet Home Missionary Baptist Church, Austin (see page 33). Background: Stained-glass window by Jean Lacy, Trinity United Methodist Church, Houston (see page 49).

1010 www.thc.texas.gov 1869 The new state constitution 1528–1536 Estevanico (Estevan), recognizes African American men’s a survivor of the Narváez right to vote, serve in office, attend expedition, accompanies Cabeza school and serve on juries. Ten de Vaca through Texas before being African Americans serve in the rescued by the Spanish military. He constitutional convention. is able to learn American Indian languages and help the Spanish 1873 Freedmen’s Aid Society survive in what is now Texas. of the Methodist Episcopal Church establishes Wiley College 1829 Attitudes toward people of in Marshall. African descent are generally more tolerant in Mexico than in the U.S. 1874 Reconstruction, a tumultuous during the 18th and 19th centuries, era following the Civil War when leading to the abolition of slavery the nation reorganized economically in Mexico on Sept. 15. However, and politically, ends in Texas with Anglo immigration into Mexican the election of Gov. Richard Coke. Texas in the 1820s brings increased numbers of slaves, which Mexican 1877 Troop A of the 10th U.S. authorities tolerate for economic Cavalry, under the command of reasons. Even after abolition, Capt. Nicholas Nolan, is lost slavery is overlooked by the while tracking Comanche Indians. Mexican government, though Four Buffalo Soldiers die in what divisiveness over the issue newspapers call the “Staked contributes to tensions leading to Plains Horror.” the Texas Revolution.

Abraham Gordon Granger, Richard Coke, Norris Wright John “Jack” Lincoln, DeGolyer Library, Library of Congress. Cuney, Johnson, Library of Southern Methodist Maud Cuney-Hare, Library of Congress. Congress. University. Norris Wright Cuney, A Tribune of the Black People.

1835–1836 African Americans, 1886 Norris Wright Cuney is free and enslaved, participate in the appointed Texas committeeman to Texas Revolution. the National Republican Party.

1863 Abraham Lincoln’s 1902 Voters approve a state Emancipation Proclamation, constitutional amendment for a initially drafted in September 1862, poll tax to limit African American becomes effective on Jan. 1. political power. 1906 Several companies 1865 Union Gen. Gordon Granger from the 25th U.S. Infantry arrives in Galveston and announces are accused of attacking an end to slavery in Texas on June townspeople in Brownsville, and 19. A state holiday since 1980, the roughly 165 Buffalo Soldiers are event is commemorated annually as dishonorably discharged as a result Juneteenth and is the oldest known of the “Brownsville Raid.” celebration of the end of slavery in the U.S. 1908 Galveston native Arthur John “Jack” Johnson becomes the 1867 The first regiment of African first African American world American troopers—the­ 9th U.S. heavyweight-boxing champion. Cavalry—arrives in Texas, deployed by the U.S. Army in support of protection of the western frontier.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 1111 1917 Racial discrimination against men of the Third Battalion, 24th U.S. Infantry, stationed at Camp 1942 Marshall native James Logan in Houston, leads to the L. Farmer, Jr., son of a Wiley Houston Riot of 1917, in which College professor, helps organize approximately 20 people die the Congress of Racial Equality (including four soldiers). After the (CORE) to peacefully protest racial conflict, 110 soldiers are convicted discrimination in the U.S. by court martial, and 19 Buffalo Soldiers are hanged. Mess Attendant Second Class Doris Miller of Waco is awarded the Navy 1920–1932 Julius Rosenwald, Cross for his heroic actions during president of Sears, Roebuck the attack on Pearl Harbor. and Company, expands education opportunities by aiding the effort 1944 In Smith v. Allwright, the to build public schools for African U.S. Supreme Court decides in Americans in the South. favor of Houston dentist Lonnie E. Smith that Texas’ white primary 1921 Atlanta, Texas, native Bessie is unconstitutional. The result Coleman receives a pilot’s license of Smith’s lawsuit can also be from the French Fédération attributed to initial efforts made by Aéronautique Internationale to Dr. Lawrence Aaron Nixon of El become the first licensed African Paso in Nixon v. Herndon and Nixon American pilot in the world. v. Condon.

Julius Bessie Coleman, Melvin Tolson, Doris Miller, Rosenwald, National Air and Wiley College. Naval Historical Foundation. Library of Congress. Space Museum, Smithsonian Institution.

1929 Prairie View State Normal 1947 To prevent Houston postman and Industrial College begins Heman M. Sweatt from enrolling collecting oral histories of former at the University of Texas School slaves. In 1936, the Works Progress of Law, the Texas Legislature Administration establishes the establishes the Texas State University Federal Writers’ Project Slave for Negroes, which later becomes Narratives initiative to continue Texas Southern University. efforts to preserve first-hand accounts of slavery in the southern Melvin B. Tolson and James L. U.S., including Texas. Farmer, Jr. promote Wiley College’s first sit-in at the Harrison County 1935 The Wiley College debate Courthouse in Marshall, where team defeats the University of students protest the state Southern California, the reigning Democratic Party’s white primary. national champions. 1950 In Sweatt v. Painter, the 1936 Dr. Connie Yerwood Conner U.S. Supreme Court orders the becomes the first African American integration of the University of physician on the staff of the Texas Texas School of Law. Department of Health.

1212 www.thc.texas.gov 1954 In Brown v. Board of Education, the U.S. Supreme Court overturns the 1896 Plessy v. Ferguson 1966 Curtis Graves and Joe decision and declares separate Lockridge are the first African schools for African American American state representatives elected students are unconstitutional. since the 1890s; Barbara Jordan is Following the decision, two African elected to the Texas Senate. American students integrate into an all-Anglo school in Friona. The 1973 Barbara Jordan is elected San Antonio school district becomes the first African American from one of the first districts in Texas a Southern state to serve in the to integrate its schools. U.S. House of Representatives since Reconstruction. 1955 Thelma White of El Paso wins a federal lawsuit against Texas 1979 Houston pharmacist Mickey Western College, allowing African Leland is elected to the U.S. House American undergraduates to enroll of Representatives, taking the seat at the previously all-Anglo school. vacated by Barbara Jordan.

Doris Miller, James L. President Barbara Jordan, Mickey Leland, Wilhelmina Naval Historical Farmer, Jr., Lyndon B. Texas State Collection of the Delco, Foundation. Library of Library and Archives Clerk, U.S. House Korey Howell Johnson, Commission. of Representatives. Congress. LBJ Library. Photography.

1956 To prevent three African 1980 Juneteenth is officially American students from enrolling established as a state holiday, at Mansfield High School, more celebrating Union Gen. Gordon than 300 Anglo protesters violate Granger’s announcement on a court order in an effort to June 19, 1865, of the Civil War’s maintain segregation. end and the abolishment of slavery.

1964 Texas native and President 1991 Wilhelmina Delco becomes Lyndon B. Johnson signs the Civil the first woman and second African Rights Act, making Jim Crow American Speaker Pro Tempore of segregation and discrimination illegal. the Texas House.

1965 President Johnson signs the 1992 Morris Overstreet of Voting Rights Act, prohibiting state Amarillo is the first African laws that restrict voting. Johnson American in Texas elected to oversees the implementation of statewide office when chosen sweeping civil rights reform in the as Judge, Texas Court of U.S. during his presidency. Criminal Appeals.

www.africanamericansintexas.comwww.africanamericansintexas.com 1313 > ABOUT THIS GUIDE The sites featured in this educational travel guide are organized according to the 10 heritage regions in the Texas Historical Commission’s nationally award- winning tourism initiative, the Texas Heritage Trails Program. The African American cultural and historic sites are listed alphabetically within the heritage region in which they are located. There is no recommended sequence in which to visit these sites; city numbers on the map follow the order in which they appear in the guide.

TEXAS BRAZOS TRAIL REGION (PAGE 16) 1 I Bastrop* 2 I Bryan 3 I Calvert

TEXAS FOREST TRAIL REGION (PAGE 21) 4 I Atlanta 5 I Crockett 6 I Huntsville 7 I Marshall 8 I Nacogdoches

TEXAS FORTS TRAIL REGION (PAGE 25) 9 I Abilene 10 I Albany 11 I Jacksboro 12 I Menard 13 I San Angelo TEXAS HILL COUNTRY TRAIL REGION (PAGE 30) 14 I Austin 15 I Blanco 16 I San Marcos

Throughout the text, the following abbreviations note a site’s historical significance with national and/or state designations and/or markers.

KEY NHL Designated a National Historic Landmark NR Listed in the National Register of Historic Places RTHL Designated a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark SM Texas Historical Subject Marker HTC Designated a Historic Texas Cemetery

Many sites in this guide are also designated as local landmarks or districts by local municipalities.

14 www.thc.texas.gov TEXAS INDEPENDENCE TRAIL TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION (PAGE 40) REGION (PAGE 64) 17 I Brazoria 33 I El Paso 18 I Brenham 34 I Fort Davis 19 I Galveston 20 I Houston TEXAS PECOS TRAIL REGION 21 I Kendleton (PAGE 67) I 22 I Lockhart 35 Brackettville I 23 I Prairie View 36 Fort Stockton I 24 I San Antonio** 37 Sheffield I 25 Seguin TEXAS PLAINS TRAIL REGION I 26 Texas City (PAGE 70) I 27 Washington 38 I Lubbock 28 I West Columbia TEXAS TROPICAL TRAIL TEXAS LAKES TRAIL REGION REGION (PAGE 72) (PAGE 57) 39 I Brownsville I 29 Dallas 40 I Laredo I 30 Denton 41 I Rio Grande City 31 I Fort Worth 32 I Waxahachie * Also part of the Texas Independence Trail Region ** Also part of the Texas Hill Country Trail Region

www.africanamericansintexas.com 15 BRAZOS

TEXAS BRAZOS TRAIL REGION www.texasbrazostrail.com

Community members gather for music, Kerr Community Center, Bastrop.

1 I BASTROP Also part of the Texas Independence Trail Region Kerr Community Center Restored in 2008, the Kerr Community Center, with its two- story wood-frame construction and white paint, is easy to identify. Constructed in 1914 by Beverly and Lula Kerr—their house can be seen nearby—the community center provided a haven for African American social activities, lodge meetings and other functions in the segregated South. Additionally, several prominent black entertainers performed at the center, including the “Grey Ghost,” blues pianist Roosevelt Williams. During World War II, the U.S. Army, in keeping with its segregationist policies, used this building as a United Service Organizations (USO) center for African American soldiers from Camp Swift. The Kerrs were music teachers and prominent members of the African American community in Bastrop. (NR) 1308 Walnut St.

Ploeger-Kerr-White House Robert A. Kerr was one of Bastrop’s leading African American citizens during the late 19th century. Born in New Orleans, Louisiana, in 1833, Kerr had an Anglo father and, as a result, received a private education. Kerr arrived in the Bastrop area and took a job with a local grocery store after the Civil War. His political career included an appointment as an alternate delegate for the 1872 Republican National

16 www.thc.texas.gov Convention and as an election educator, the facility features judge for San Patricio, Refugio, some African artifacts and a Calhoun and Victoria rotating exhibit. The museum counties. Local voters elected is also developing a genealogical Kerr to the 17th Legislature and research library. of Texas (1881–82). He also 500 E. Pruitt St. • 979-775-3961 served as a member of the www.bvaam.org Bastrop School Board in 1893. Kerr and his wife, Sarah, 3 I CALVERT were the second residents Calvert School of this house, constructed Constructed in 1929, the by Prussian immigrant Carl Calvert School was the largest Ludwig Ploeger. (NR) Rosenwald School (see 806 Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. Education spotlight, next page) in Texas at the time. The town 2 I BRYAN restored the building, and it Brazos Valley African served as the W.D. Spigner American Museum Elementary School until 2010. This museum houses a unique It is now a multipurpose center collection focused on the operated by Calvert Colored African American experience in W.D. Spigner High School the Brazos Valley. Growing out Alumni Association, Inc. of the collections and research 801 W. Texas Ave. of Mell Pruitt, a retired

www.africanamericansintexas.com 17 > EDUCATION African Americans were denied access to education while enslaved, but opportunities emerged after emancipation. Though former slaves quickly sought educational prospects for themselves and their children, finding schools proved difficult at best. Organized by the federal government, the Freedmen’s Bureau founded several schools in the state that offered day and night classes, and several church societies followed suit. The state established a segregated public education system that underfunded African American scholastic activities, limiting student access to books, libraries, educational resources and buildings. In 1917, the Rosenwald Americans who participated in Fund was established by peaceful sit-ins, filed numerous Chicago philanthropist Julius lawsuits and suffered through Rosenwald, president and forceful opposition. While Texas board member of Sears, led desegregation efforts in the Roebuck and Company, who South—with Friona integrating also served on the Board first in 1954, followed shortly of Directors for Booker T. by the San Antonio school Washington’s Tuskegee district—the state did Institute. Among the fund’s not completely come into many social projects was the compliance until the late 1970s. rural school building program, Institutions of higher which provided matching learning were also affected monies to communities to by the legacy of discrimination. build public schools for African Segregation led to the American students. Rosenwald founding of several African Schools began forming in Texas American colleges by religious, in 1920. By 1932, the school- government and other building program had come to organizations, including Paul an end, after helping fund more Quinn College (Dallas), Bishop than 5,000 schools across the and Wiley colleges (Marshall), South, 527 of them in Texas. Jarvis Christian College Segregation continued as (Hawkins), Mary Allen Junior a major long-term obstacle for College (Crockett), Texas African Americans pursuing an Southern University (Houston), education, and it still casts a Prairie View Agricultural and long shadow on school systems Mechanical College­—now today. In 1954, the U.S. Supreme Prairie View A&M (Prairie Court found segregated schools View)—Texas College (Tyler), to be unconstitutional in the and Samuel Huston College Brown v. Board of Education and Tillotson Collegiate and case, a ruling that was slow to Normal Institute, which merged be implemented throughout the into Huston-Tillotson in South. The accomplishment of 1952 (Austin). school district integration can Higher education for primarily be attributed to the African Americans took a relentless pursuit of equality dramatic turn in the late 1940s in education by many African when Heman M. Sweatt filed

18 www.thc.texas.govwww.thc.texas.gov a lawsuit against the University university to open a of Texas (UT). Sweatt’s temporary law school application met all of the for African Americans. university’s requirements Sweatt was among the except for race. His lawsuit, first African Americans known as Sweatt v. to enroll, along with Painter, challenged John S. Chase (see segregation on page 32) and Oscar L. the basis that no Thompson. In 1952, “separate but equal” Thompson became the law school existed for first to graduate, with African Americans in a master’s degree Texas. While the suit in zoology. did not end segregation at UT, it forced the

Sweet Home Vocational and Agricultural High School, Seguin (see page 53).

www.africanamericansintexas.com 19 > BESSIE COLEMAN Bessie Coleman was born in Atlanta, Texas, and grew up primarily in Waxahachie, picking cotton in her youth to help ease her family’s monetary woes. Following a brief semester at an African American college in Oklahoma, where she was forced to quit because of financial difficulties, Coleman joined her brother for a short time in Chicago. However, her desire to fly airplanes was unrelenting. With backing from Coleman encouraged Chicago entrepreneurs, African Americans to pursue Coleman’s dream to fly took their dreams and, during a her to Le Crotoy, France, to performance in Waxahachie, attend aviation school. Racial she refused to give an segregation prevented the exhibition on Anglo school pursuit of her passion in the grounds unless blacks were U.S. On June 15, 1921, after permitted to use the same 10 months of perfecting her entrances as Anglos. Sadly, skills, Coleman became the she died during a test flight world’s first licensed African before a show on April 30, American pilot. She returned 1926. Coleman’s historical to the U.S. and performed in air significance is undeniable shows, earning the nickname and was highlighted in 1995 “Brave Bessie” because of her when the U.S. Postal Service fondness for daredevil stunts. issued a commemorative stamp in her honor.

Bessie Coleman exhibit, Atlanta Historical Museum.

20 www.thc.texas.govwww.thc.texas.gov FOREST

TEXAS FOREST TRAIL REGION www.texasforesttrail.com

Otis Duren holds a photo of his great-grandfather, Bill, a former slave and community founder, New Pleasant Hill Baptist Church, Germany Community.

4 I ATLANTA Atlanta Historical Museum Housed in the historic Texas and Pacific Railroad Depot, the Atlanta Historical Museum showcases the community’s history with a special emphasis on child-friendly exhibits, which makes this a great stop for traveling families. Both a scale model of a Curtiss Jenny bi-wing plane, the centerpiece of the museum, and a display honor the town’s most famous citizen, the pioneering African American pilot Bessie Coleman. 101 N. East St. • www.atlantatexas.org/city/atlanta-historical- museum.html 5 I CROCKETT Germany Community The community name of Germany originated from references to a German family that settled here. The first African Americans arrived in this area as slaves. Following the Civil War, a group of former slaves that included John Burt, George Smith, Lewis Hall and Van and Jane Benton applied for and received land patents in the area. In 1883, the community constructed the New Pleasant Hill Baptist Church, which doubled as a school, and set aside land for a cemetery. The agricultural community of Germany has never been large, but the church remains active and hosts several social events throughout the year. (SM) 10 miles northeast of Crockett off SH 21

www.africanamericansintexas.com 21 6 I HUNTSVILLE Samuel Walker Houston Museum and Cultural Center Samuel Walker Houston was the son of Joshua Houston, a slave owned by Sam Houston. Born into slavery in 1864, Samuel grew up to become an educator, founding the Galilee Community School in 1907 for African American students in grades 1–11. It was later known as the Houstonian Normal and Industrial Institute, then as the Samuel W. Houston High School. The museum shares Samuel Walker Houston's legacy through exhibits featuring artifacts and photos of the school. Outside on the grounds is the “Dreamers” sculpture, a curved, concrete wall featuring 69 faces depicting multiple generations of African Americans. Just over a mile to the northeast is Emancipation Park, where Huntsville’s African American community has celebrated Juneteenth since by the Marshall Convention 1915. (SM) and Visitors Bureau to pick up 1604 10th St. • 936-295-2119 a trail guide brochure or DVD, or call in advance to arrange a 7 I MARSHALL guided tour. Buard History Trail Marshall Convention and This driving tour provides an Visitors Bureau overview of Marshall’s history 301 N. Washington Ave. and includes important African 903-702-7777 American sites, such as historic Wiley College, New Town and Wiley College the Old Powder Mill Cemetery, Founded in 1873, Wiley which includes the graves of College was named after Bishop two of the famous Tuskegee Isaac Wiley of the Methodist Airmen who served in World Episcopal Church. In 1882, War II. The city installed Wiley became the first college interpretative markers for west of the Mississippi River each of the stops on the Buard certified by the Freedmen’s History Trail, which is named Aid Society. In 1935, Wiley in honor of the late Rebecca D. College’s debate team, coached Buard, a popular local historian. by Melvin Tolson, made Before beginning the tour, stop headlines when it defeated

22 www.thc.texas.gov Willis J. King Administration Building, Wiley College, Marshall. the University of Southern primarily to service workers, California’s national champion- including shop porters, ship team, a feat that inspired servants, maids, cooks and the film “The Great Debaters” groundskeepers for affluent (2007). One member of the white families living on nearby team, James Farmer, Jr., assisted Mound Street. One-story in founding a major civil rights framed dwellings known as organization, the Congress of shotgun houses dominate the Racial Equality (CORE). In area. The Gothic Revival-style 1960, students from Wiley and 1914 Zion Hill Baptist Church Bishop colleges held sit-ins at anchors the neighborhood, the Woolworth’s and Fry Hodge and the Oak Grove cemetery stores in downtown Marshall. (SM) contains graves dating to 1837. 711 Wiley Ave. • 903-927-3300 (NR, SM) www.wileyc.edu Roughly bounded by Park Street, the Lanana Creek, 8 I NACOGDOCHES Oak Grove Cemetery and Zion Hill Historic District North Lanana Street The history of this district is typical of many southern U.S. communities after the Civil War. Zion Hill was home

www.africanamericansintexas.com 23 > FREEDMEN’S COMMUNITIES Following emancipation, many African Americans set up independently sustaining freedmen’s communities throughout the state. They were established in both rural and urban areas, creating employment opportunities, a sense of society and a cultural unity that this marginalized population had not been allowed to experience freely. Shankleville in Newton population, providing com- County, for example, became munity access to commercial a freedmen’s community, businesses, schools, churches representing the triumph of and social services. Although a family bonds over slavery. The historic Houston neighborhood, Shankle family was torn apart Freedmen’s Town’s preserva- when Winnie Shankle was tion has suffered from metro- separated from her husband politan growth. (NR, SM) following her sale from Many of these freedmen’s Mississippi to an East Texas communities and businesses landowner. Undertaking a have been absorbed into the treacherous journey, Jim larger surrounding cities, while Shankle traveled miles on foot others­—including Austin’s and was eventually bought by San Bernard Historic District­— his wife’s owner, reuniting have evolved into identifiable, the couple and her three ethnically diverse communities. children. With emancipation, Revitalization of these areas is the Shankles bought more than key to preserving the heritage 4,000 acres and established and culture that characterized the community of Shankleville the independent African (www.shankleville.org). (SM, HTC) American way of life in One of the most important Texas. Urban renewal urban freedmen’s colonies was often demolished these a 40-block residential area in communities, but revitalization Houston now called the Freed- allows the commercial and men’s Town Historic District. residential structures, and the Established in the 1880s–1890s, rich stories they embody, to Freedmen’s Town served as the remain an integral part of economic and cultural center contemporary neighborhoods, for Houston’s African American cities and society. Historical Commission Texas former Commissioner, Lareatha H. Clay,

Jimmie Odom (grandson of Jim and Winnie Shankle) and family, circa 241906, Shankleville. www.thc.texas.gov FORTS

TEXAS FORTS TRAIL REGION www.texasfortstrail.com

Buffalo Soldier reenactor visits with a family, Fort Phantom Hill, Abilene.

9 I ABILENE Fort Phantom Hill Interpretive signs provide a history of this property, which the U.S. Army established in 1851. Sporadically occupied, the site served as a frontier garrison—including a stint under Confederate control— and as a stagecoach and mail stop. The 9th U.S. Cavalry, Powder magazine, Fort Phantom Hill, Abilene. a unit of the famous Buffalo Soldiers (see sidebar, page 28), fought Comanche and Kiowa Indian forces here in 1869. Visitors to the site can follow trails among the ruins, which include buildings, foundations and a large number of now-orphaned chimneys scattered around the 22-acre property. (NR, SM) 10 miles north of Abilene on FM 600 • 325-677-1309 www.fortphantom.org

www.africanamericansintexas.com 25 Period kitchen, Fort Richardson, Jacksboro.

10 I ALBANY 11 I JACKSBORO Fort Griffin Fort Richardson State State Historic Site Park and Historic Site Established in 1867—during The U.S. Army built Fort the Indian Wars, when Kiowa Richardson in 1867, and and Comanche Indians reacted Buffalo Soldiers from both the to U.S. efforts to remove them 10th U.S. Cavalry and the 24th from their traditional lands U.S. Infantry operated here by raiding settlements and during the 1870s. Now a state attacking travelers—Fort Griffin park, the site includes both served as an active garrison until restored and reconstructed 1881. It supported, at various times, Buffalo Soldiers from buildings. Guided tours companies of the 9th and 10th are offered midday. Fort U.S. Cavalry and Company E Richardson hosts various of the 24th U.S. Infantry. These special events, including soldiers used the fort as a resting military reenactments. The point from which they could area makes a good spot for patrol the surrounding areas and a family vacation, offering a pursue raiders. Today, Fort variety of facilities for travelers, Griffin State Historic Site, a including campgrounds and Texas Historical Commission nature trails. (NHL, RTHL, SM) property, features remains of the 228 State Park Rd. 61 fort, plus campgrounds, nature 940-567-3506 trails and Texas longhorn cattle. www.tpwd.texas.gov/ Several events take place at state-parks/fort-richardson Fort Griffin, including the annual Living History Days in October that includes Buffalo Soldier reenactors. (NR, SM) 1701 N. U.S. Hwy. 283 325-762-3592 www.visitfortgriffin.com

26 www.thc.texas.gov 12 I MENARD Fort McKavett State Historic Site The U.S. Army established Fort McKavett in 1852, but abandoned it by the end of the decade. In 1868, the fort reopened and elements of the U.S. Army’s four African American regiments—the Buffalo Soldiers—used Fort McKavett during the Indian Wars. Sgt. Emmanuel Stance, one of the first Buffalo Soldiers to earn the Medal of Honor, was stationed here in 1870. Fort McKavett State Historic Site is Buffalo soldier reenactor, Fort Concho, a Texas Historical Commission San Angelo. property with restored buildings and a visitors center featuring 13 I SAN ANGELO detailed exhibits that tell the real Fort Concho National stories behind this place. The Historic Landmark site is open daily and also hosts Established in 1867 and closed a number of events throughout in 1889, Fort Concho belonged the year, including the annual to the chain of frontier posts West Texas Heritage Days used by the Buffalo Soldiers in the spring. (NR, RTHL, SM) during the Indian Wars. All four 7066 FM 864 regiments of Buffalo Soldiers (23 miles west (the 9th and 10th U.S. Cavalry of Menard) • 325-396-2358 and the 24th and 25th U.S. www.visitfortmckavett.com Infantry) served at Fort Concho during its active use as a military facility. It remains one of the best-preserved frontier forts in Texas, with 23 structures on the grounds, including a museum and living history exhibit buildings. Fort Concho has plenty to see and hosts kid- friendly events throughout the summer. Families on vacation are encouraged to check the events calendar and consider stopping by for one of the Fun at the Fort days. (NHL, NR, RTHL, SM) 630 S. Oakes St. Restored hospital, Fort McKavett State 325-481-2646 Historic Site, near Menard. or 325-657-4444 www.fortconcho.com

www.africanamericansintexas.com 27 > THE BUFFALO SOLDIERS The volatile environmental conditions of the American Southwest made Anglo settlement an extremely arduous task. Inevitable friction between Anglo settlers and American Indians, as well as bandits and cattle thieves, created a general atmosphere of lawlessness that the drastically reduced post-Civil War U.S. military found challenging. To meet these threats, the U.S. Army stationed troops, many of whom were African Americans, throughout the region. They were called Buffalo Soldiers by American Indians who were reminded of the buffalo when they saw the soldiers’ thick black hair. Some believe the name symbolized a respect for the Buffalo Soldiers’ bravery and valor. The duties assigned Also as a result of the U.S. to these units ranged from Army’s 1869 Consolidation Act, escorting settlers, cattle the 25th U.S. Infantry Regiment herds and railroad crews, to served at numerous posts in protecting the mail, keeping Texas in the years after the roads open and pursuing Civil War. outlaws. Throughout the Indian Today, the Buffalo Soldier Wars era, many U.S. cavalry story is interpreted through troops were African American, many public and private and they fought more than 170 programs, notably the Texas engagements. Several of these Parks and Wildlife Department’s brave men were recipients of Buffalo Soldier Heritage and the Medal of Honor. A few Outreach Program, which Buffalo Soldier units, the 9th emphasizes Texans’ shared and 10th U.S. Cavalry Regiment, western heritage. Buffalo conducted campaigns against Soldier history events, American Indian tribes on a such as the Morton Buffalo western frontier that extended Soldier Encampment in from Montana to Texas and the Cochran County, take place Southwest. In 1869, the 24th around the state. Other events U.S. Infantry Regiment was occur at San Angelo’s Fort organized at Fort McKavett with Concho and Brackettville’s the consolidation of the 38th Fort Clark. and 41st U.S. Infantry Regiment.

Texas has many Buffalo Soldier-related sites. Look for the Buffalo Soldier symbol in the site descriptions to follow the Buffalo Soldier trail of history through Texas.

Buffalo Soldier reenactor marches toward post at Fort Phantom Hill, Abilene (see page 25).

28 28 www.thc.texas.govwww.thc.texas.gov www.africanamericansintexas.com 29 HILL COUNTRY

TEXAS HILL COUNTRY TRAIL REGION www.txhillcountrytrail.com

Mural on the Victory Grill, Austin.

14 I AUSTIN African American Cultural Heritage District Encompassing about six square miles in East Austin, this historically segregated area has been changed dramatically by gentrification. But much of its rich African American history remains and is presented at the African American Cultural and Heritage Facility (912 E. 11th St.). A modern building houses city offices, while the circa 1880 Dedrick-Hamilton House—owned by one of the first freedmen in Travis County—now serves as a visitors center. The “Reflections” mural in the courtyard pays tribute to prominent local African Americans. Another mosaic mural is located in the Charles E. Urdy Plaza at East 11th and Waller streets. “Rhapsody” reflects East Austin’s musical and cultural heritage—a legacy that lives on at the nearby Victory Grill (1104 E. 11th St.), one of the oldest blues venues in the state. Established in 1945 to accommodate African Americans and especially servicemen who couldn’t go to other segregated clubs, it became a stop on the “Chitlin Circuit,” a network of Southern clubs that gave black performers access to venues during segregation. Blues legends such as B.B. King, Bobby “Blue” Bland and Big Joe Williams have graced the stage. A few blocks further east on the southern edge of the district is the serene, rolling landscape of the Texas State Cemetery (909 Navasota St.), where eminent statesmen and heroes of the

30 www.thc.texas.gov TEXAS HILL COUNTRY TRAIL REGION www.txhillcountrytrail.com

Lone Star State are buried. Notable gravesites include Barbara Jordan (see sidebar, page 44) and Myra McDaniel, who served as Texas’ first African American secretary of state from 1984–87. The Black Legislators Monument honors the 52 African American men who served in the Legislature or the Texas Constitutional Convention during Reconstruction. A couple blocks east is Blackshear Elementary School (1712 E. 11th St.), which opened in 1891 to provide free public education to African American children in a community then known as Gregory Town. Across the street is Huston-Tillotson Black Legislators Monument at the University (900 Chicon St.), Texas State Cemetery, Austin.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 31 George Washington Carver Museum and Cultural Center, Austin. a historically black university the King-Tears Mortuary that resulted from the 1952 building (1300 E. 12th St.) merger of Samuel Huston and the Teachers State College and Tillotson Association of Texas building Collegiate and Normal (1191 Navasota St.), which is Institute, which both date now a salon. The Association to the 1870s. The campus was founded in 1884 by faculty hosts many African American members at Prairie View State heritage events throughout Normal School (now Prairie the year, including the annual View A&M), and fought to MLK Community March and get equal pay and working Festival and Juneteenth Parade. conditions for African Several notable buildings American teachers in Texas in the district were designed by during segregation. John S. Chase, the first African The Carver Museum and American architect licensed Cultural Center and the Carver in Texas. David Chapel Branch Library (1165 Angelina Missionary Baptist Church St.) grew out of one of the first (2211 E. Martin Luther King, library buildings in Austin, Jr. Blvd.) has a unique roofline which later became the “colored that guides the visitor’s eye branch” of the Austin Public toward the cross in the Library system. The small sanctuary. The 1958 building building was originally also features folding panels that constructed in 1926 as the increase the functionality of central library at Guadalupe the building, allowing it to and West 9th streets. It was be subdivided into smaller moved to its current location areas. The modernist architect in 1933 and renamed in 1947 also designed Olivet Baptist after Dr. George Washington Church (1179 San Bernard St.), Carver, the famous African

32 www.thc.texas.gov American agricultural scientist Navasota St.), which contains a known as one of the greatest large African American Section inventors in American history. of mostly unmarked graves. After completion of the larger Additional African American branch library to the south, the graveyards just east of the historic facility was rededicated district are Plummers in 1979 as one of the first Cemetery (1150 Springdale African American neighbor- Rd.) and Bethany Cemetery hood museums in Texas. In (1300 Springdale Rd.). 2005, a new museum and Roughly bounded by I-35, cultural facility was added to Airport Boulevard, Manor Road the campus, housing four and East 11th Street/Rosewood galleries, a conference room, Avenue/Oak Springs Drive classroom, darkroom, dance 512-505-8738 studio, 134-seat theater and www.sixsquare.org archival space. The galleries feature a core exhibit on Clarksville Historic Juneteenth, a permanent exhibit District on African American families The Clarksville historic district in Austin, an artists’ gallery and is one of Austin’s oldest African

George Washington Carver Museum and Cultural Center, Austin. a children’s exhibit on black American communities and scientists and inventors. The established neighborhoods. historic building now houses A freedman, Charles Clark, the Carver Genealogy Center. settled the area in 1871, having Another noteworthy site purchased two acres outside is the Connelly-Yerwood House Austin specifically for the (1115 E. 15th St.), which was purpose of forming a district owned by Dr. Charles Yerwood, for freedmen. Austin eventually an African American physician, expanded to encompass and later by his daughter, Dr. the neighborhood. The Connie Yerwood Conner. She construction of the Mopac painted it the distinct pink Expressway through Clarksville and aqua colors of her sorority, greatly reduced the size of the Alpha Kappa Alpha, the oldest district, although it has not Greek-letter society established diminished the enduring sense by African American women. of community pride. When Conner worked for the state’s visiting the area, be sure to Department of Health where, stop by the Sweet Home despite facing discrimination Missionary Baptist Church both as an African American at 1725 W. 11th St. (see and as a woman, she eventually page 10). (NR, SM) rose to the position of Chief of Bounded by West Lynn Street, the Bureau of Personal Health Waterston Avenue, West 10th Services. Additional sites of Street and Mopac Expressway interest in the district include the Henry G. Madison log cabin at Rosewood Park (2300 Rosewood Ave.), Wesley United Methodist Church (1164 San Bernard St.), Evergreen Cemetery (3304 E. 12th St.) and Oakwood Cemetery (1601

www.africanamericansintexas.com 33 First Colored Baptist Church Although the First Colored Baptist Church (now known as First Baptist Church) began as a slave congregation, it was officially organized after the Civil War in 1867 by the Rev. Jacob Fontaine, a former slave (see Gold Dollar entry below). Today, the church is considered to be one of the oldest African American Baptist churches in Austin. The current building is the fourth home for this congregation. (NR, SM) 4805 Heflin Ln.

Gold Dollar Newspaper Building This two-story building is all that remains of the African American community of Wheatville, which once encompassed the area from 24th to 26th streets and from Lyndon Baines Johnson Rio Grande Street to Shoal Library and Museum Creek. The Rev. Jacob Located on the University Fontaine lived here and of Texas campus, this also published the Gold presidential library opened in Dollar—the first African 1971 to share the life and legacy American-owned newspaper of the 36th U.S. president, printed in Austin—from this Lyndon Baines Johnson. Among location. In the aftermath the collection’s millions of of the Civil War, Fontaine, documents, photos, recordings a former slave, rose to and artifacts, is a substantial prominence as an influential exhibit on civil rights civic, spiritual and business legislation passed during the leader for the Texas African Johnson presidency. Visitors American community. He can listen to a telephone call established several churches between Johnson and Martin and a variety of businesses, Luther King, Jr., watch some of which were housed powerful videos about the in the Gold Dollar Newspaper civil rights movement and the building, including the First struggle to enact civil rights Colored Baptist Church, legislation and see the actual New Hope Baptist Church desk on which Johnson signed and a community grocery the Voting Rights Act of store. The building was 1965. An interpretive timeline rehabilitated in 2012 to house that spans Johnson’s life and a barbecue restaurant. presidency includes key dates 2402 San Gabriel St. such as the signing of the Civil

34 www.thc.texas.gov Webberville and Webberville Ebenezer Baptist Church John F. Webber, an Anglo, settled in this area with his African American wife and children after receiving a land grant in 1827. Webber sought to find a place where he and his family could escape the discrimination of the antebellum South. The resulting community eventually received a post office and was known originally as Webber’s Prairie. The town officially adopted the name Webberville in 1853. Cotton brought prosperity to this small community, which boasted almost 400 residents by the turn of the century and included cotton gins, grist mills, four general stores, two churches, a cemetery and several schools. As time passed, however, the community began to shrink, and the post office closed in 1903. The Webberville Ebenezer Baptist Church was founded in 1868, when resident Matthew Duty donated land for the sanctuary construction. Led by the Rev. Wesley Barrow, the church was formed as a mission of the St. John Regular Missionary Baptist Association. Although many of Webberville’s former citizens have moved, the church boasts an active congregation; out-of-town Above left: Gold Dollar Newspaper building, Austin. members continue to gather Above: Monument detail, Webberville to celebrate holidays and Ebenezer Baptist Church Cemetery. special events. When visiting the church, look to the north, Rights Act of 1964 on July 2, across an open pasture, for an 1964; the appointment of iron fence surrounding a few Thurgood Marshall as the first stone markers; this is Duty’s African American Supreme cemetery, where he and several Court Justice on June 13, members of his family were 1967; and the signing of the buried in the 1800s. (SM) Civil Rights Act of 1968 on 13 miles east of Austin April 11, 1968. on FM 969 2313 Red River St. 512-721-0200 • www.lbjlibrary.org www.africanamericansintexas.com 35 15 I BLANCO common features found in Mt. Horeb Baptist Church most Texas African American Established in 1874, the Mt. churches of that era, with twin Horeb Baptist Church served towers that flank its entrance the residents of Peyton Colony, and tall, arched windows that a freedmen’s community run along its sides. Nearby, named after Peyton Roberts, along FM 165, the people of Peyton Colony built a lime a former slave and one of the kiln to make the ingredients first freedmen to settle in the necessary for mortar. Some of area. The church’s first minister the buildings still standing in was the Rev. Jack Burch, and its Blanco County were built with original log building doubled as mortar from this kiln. (SM) a school. The current one-story, wooden structure demonstrates 593 Peyton Colony Rd. 830-833-4183

Above: Mt. Horeb Baptist Church, Blanco. Above right: USO and Camp Gary exhibits, Calaboose African American History Museum, San Marcos.

36 www.thc.texas.gov 16 I SAN MARCOS Dunbar Historic District This locally designated historic district takes its name from the Dunbar School, named after renowned African American author Paul Laurence Dunbar. It was the first public school for African American children in San Marcos, providing segregated education from 1877 until the schools were integrated in the 1960s. The seven-acre area where the school once stood is now a city park (801 Martin Luther King Dr.) located a few blocks west of the district. Community leaders and influential citizens resided in the neighborhood. The restored Cephas House (213 Martin Luther King Dr.) was home to Ulysses Cephas, an African American blacksmith who lived there during the first half of the 20th century. An adjacent lot was recently converted into the small Eddie Durham Park, named after a prominent jazz musician born in San Marcos in 1906.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 37 Church used by oldest known African American congregation in San Marcos, Wesley Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church.

Across the street is the Since 1879, the Wesley Calaboose African American Chapel African Methodist History Museum (200 Martin Episcopal Church (224 S. Luther King Dr.), which was Fredericksburg St.) has been originally constructed as home to San Marcos’ oldest a county jail in 1873. The known African American city acquired the building congregation, although a in 1885 and turned it into a succession of sanctuaries have community recreation center stood on this site. The church after the county built a stone had been established for four replacement jail. The Calaboose years when the first building (from the Spanish word was constructed in 1883, and a meaning dungeon or local jail), freedmen’s school, operated by as it came to be called, was the church, also met here. enlarged in the 1940s and used Roughly bounded by South as a World War II United Fredericksburg Street, Valley Service Organization (USO) Street, Centre Street, Herndon center for African American Street, and Martin Luther servicemen at a time when King Drive segregation kept black and Anglo soldiers from mingling. Local African American historian Johnnie Armstead fought to preserve the site and create the museum.

38 www.thc.texas.gov

> AGRICULTURE In the face of debilitating cultural practices during and after Reconstruction­—including segregation, lynching, Jim Crow laws and forced labor through a corrupt convict lease system—the African American spirit remained strong and resilient. After slavery was abolished, a need for cheap labor on farms and sugar and cotton plantations arose, which was met through a sharecropping and tenant farming system typically comprised of Anglo land owners and African American farmers. This system allowed land It serves as a living owners to retain ownership example of the early African while sharecroppers tended to American lifestyles through the agriculture, making income a transition from slavery to through a share of the crops. tenant farming. The University A small portion of African of Texas at San Antonio's Americans owned their Institute of Texan Cultures own land and farms, but features a sharecropper’s cabin a greater percentage were that allows visitors to step into sharecroppers, a form of this time of hardship and work that typically led to hope. Sabine Farms (SM) near indebtedness to land owners. Marshall housed more than Levi Jordan Plantation 75 families that worked the State Historic Site (RTHL) is a land through tenant farming. Texas Historical Commission While a kinship was forged, property near Brazoria with the community center is all limited hours that is being that remains to tell the story restored and slated to fully of this significant time in

Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, FSA/OWI Collection open to the public in 2017 Texas history. (see next page).

Farm Security Administration client working crops at Sabine Farms near Marshall.

www.africanamericansintexas.comwww.africanamericansintexas.com 39 INDEPENDENCE

TEXAS INDEPENDENCE TRAIL REGION www.texasindependencetrail.com

Blessed Virgin Mary Chapel, Brenham.

17 I BRAZORIA Levi Jordan Plantation State Historic Site This Texas Historical Commission site is a significant example of a plantation before the Civil War and during Reconstruction. The sugar and cotton plantation was established by Levi Jordan in the 1840s near the San Bernard River, utilizing slave labor to construct a brick sugar house, brick slave quarters and a large sugar mill. The recently restored Greek Revival plantation house was built in 1854, using slaves to hand- hew the sills and studs of the house and make bricks for the fireplaces. When sharecropping replaced slavery after emancipation, some freedmen continued to occupy the slave quarters until the 1880s. Archeological remains in the area of the slave quarters have contributed to the interpretation of the site, which presents the evolving history of Southern agriculture and African American plantation workers during the 19th century. At the time of publication, the site was under development with limited tours available by appointment and slated to fully open in 2017.

7234 FM 521 • 979-798-2202 Carved shell found in slave cabin at www.visitlevijordanplantation.com Levi Jordan Plantation, Brazoria.

40 www.thc.texas.gov TEXAS INDEPENDENCE TRAIL REGION www.texasindependencetrail.com

18 I BRENHAM Descendants of the Spann African American and Sweed families continued Catholic Community to share a connection through This is among Texas’ oldest their Catholic heritage. In 1969, communities of African land deeded to descendants of American Catholics. In the the Sweed family by the Spann late 1840s, the Spann family, family became the site of a new settlers from South Carolina, church building, the Blessed brought slaves to the area. The Virgin Mary Chapel, and a Catholic settlers and their slaves hall for the African American worshipped together at first, Catholic community. More and the nearby Old Catholic recently, in 1995, the town cemetery, which is still active, constructed the newest church contains markers for both the building, which continues Spann family and their slaves, to serve Brenham’s African the Sweeds. African American American Catholics, including Catholics formed their own descendants of the Sweed distinct congregation here in family. (SM) 1888 under the leadership of 12 miles northeast of Brenham Father Martin Francis Huhn, on SH 105, then north-north- who conducted Mass in the west on CR 100/Sweed Road same log building once used by the original settlers and slaves.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 41 Jack Johnson Park at Old Central Galveston native Jack Johnson, a former world boxing champion (1908–1915), is honored at his namesake park with an impressive life-sized statue. Known as the “Galveston Giant,” Johnson was the first African American heavyweight boxing champ. His athletic Ashton Villa, Galveston. achievements and bold defiance of early-1900s 19 I GALVESTON cultural norms made him Ashton Villa a controversial figure, and James Moreau Brown built he has only recently received Ashton Villa in 1859 with significant recognition. the help of a brick mason Johnson’s compelling story slave named Aleck. According became national news when to some accounts, the mansion filmmaker Ken Burns profiled is one of the places where Union him in a 2005 documentary. Gen. Gordon Granger read The park has also hosted “General Order No. 3” a events celebrating Juneteenth, few years later. The public which originated in Galveston reading of the Emancipation in 1865. Commemorations are Proclamation on June 19, 1865, also held at the site of the Texas officially ended the practice Historical Commission’s official of slavery in Texas nearly two Juneteenth historical marker, and a half years after President located a mile north at the Lincoln gave the order intersection of 22nd Street and and just two months after The Strand. the president’s death. The The park’s adjacent anniversary of Granger’s Central High School is announcement has grown considered the first African into the international American high school in celebration of emancipation Texas, established in 1885. known as Juneteenth, which is The current two-story brick commemorated by a statue on building was built in 1924 the grounds. Ashton Villa is part and is attached to the 1905 of Galveston’s annual Juneteenth Rosenberg Colored Library, celebration, which includes a which was developed by the parade down Martin Luther Rosenberg Library Association

King Boulevard. (NR, RTHL) for the local African American 2328 Broadway St. community. (SM) www.galvestonhistory.org 2601 Avenue M www.galvestonoldcentral.com

42 www.thc.texas.gov Norris Wright Cuney He was also involved in Historical Marker African American fraternal Norris Wright Cuney was born organizations, serving as the first in 1846, in the slave quarters grand master of the Prince Hall of Sunnyside Plantation near Masons from 1875–77. (SM) Hempstead, to Anglo planter 722 Moody Ave. (on Galveston Philip Cuney and one of his County Courthouse grounds) slaves, Adeline Stuart. His father sent Norris Cuney to Reedy Chapel Pittsburgh, Pa., to attend a African Methodist school for African American Episcopal Church students, but Cuney left the The congregation traces its school following the Civil War. origins to 1848, when slaves He worked a variety of odd met for outdoor services. jobs, including stints as a In 1863, Anglo Methodists riverboat worker, before constructed a chapel for returning to Galveston. In their slaves to use; after Texas, Cuney grew into a emancipation, it became national leader, giving Texas’ home to Reedy Chapel African African Americans a voice in Methodist Episcopal (AME) both state and national politics. Church, one of the first AME He was appointed inspector churches in Texas. The current of customs for Galveston in building dates to 1886 and 1872, and became the first survived the hurricane of 1900. African American to serve as If the chapel is open, step a Galveston alderman when inside for a moment; the elected to that position in 1883. distinctive, two-story building Cuney chaired the Republican has a beautiful sanctuary with State Convention in 1882 and a high, vaulted ceiling. The was a delegate in every national building also features a plaque convention from 1876 to commemorating Norris Wright 1892. U.S. President Benjamin Cuney. (NR, RTHL, SM) Harrison appointed Cuney 2013 Broadway St. collector of customs in 1889. www.reedychapel.com

Reedy Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church, Galveston.

Bessie Coleman exhibit, Atlanta Historical Museum, Atlanta www.africanamericansintexas.com 43 > BARBARA JORDAN Known for her speaking prowess, Barbara Jordan was a politician and educator who helped shape the political landscape of Texas. Born in Houston on Feb. 21, 1936, she grew up in the historic Fifth Ward neighborhood, attending Texas Southern University and receiving her law degree from Boston University. Returning to Houston in 1960, she practiced law from her parents’ home until she was able to open her own office. Transitioning from law to politics, she campaigned twice unsuccessfully for the Texas Senate in the early 1960s. In 1966, redistricting and Congress. As a result of her an increased number of African eloquent speeches, she was American voters contributed chosen as the first woman to her political triumph as the to deliver the keynote address first African American state for the Democratic National senator in Texas since 1883. Convention in 1976. Jordan was Jordan excelled in politics and, a true innovator, recognized by in 1973, successfully ran for the her induction into the National U.S. House of Representatives Women’s Hall of Fame in 1990. from the 18th Congressional She died in Austin on Jan. 17, District. She was the first 1996, leaving behind the legacy African American woman from of an enduring spirit.

Frank Wolfe, LBJ Library Frank Wolfe, a Southern state to serve in

Barbara Jordan during interview for Family Circle magazine, 1976.

44 www.thc.texas.govwww.thc.texas.gov eventually replaced by the current two-story brick building in 1926. A 2009 rehabilitation included an oral history recording studio, reading rooms and space for visiting scholars. 1300 Victor St. • 832-393-1440 www.thegregoryschool.org

Antioch Missionary Baptist Church John Henry (Jack) Yates, a former slave and one of the first ordained African American Baptist ministers in Houston, Portrait of Rev. Jack Yates, Antioch Missionary Baptist Church, Houston. was the inaugural preacher at one of Houston’s oldest 20 I HOUSTON African American Baptist congregations, the Antioch African American Library Missionary Baptist Church. at the Gregory School The church was originally The Edgar M. Gregory School organized in historic Freedmen’s served as the first public school Town in 1866. The sanctuary, for African Americans in built in 1875, stands on Houston. Located in the a corner in the shadow of city’s National Register-listed downtown Houston. Queen Freedmen’s Town Historic Elizabeth II visited the church District, the building is now in 1991, and her picture is part of the Houston Public just one of the church’s many Library system. It was named interesting artifacts and pieces after a Union army officer and of memorabilia. The cruciform assistant commissioner of the chapel includes a set of Freedmen’s Bureau in Texas. beautiful stained-glass windows The African American Library and intricately carved wooden at the Gregory School offers doors. While in the area, be sure permanent exhibits and archives to visit Sam Houston Park a few featuring photos, documents blocks away, where visitors can and recordings focusing on the see the house that belonged to lives of blacks in the historic Jack Yates. (NR) Fourth Ward neighborhood. Many items have been collected, 500 Clay St. • 713-652-0738 including personal letters, www.ambchouston.org photos, newspaper clippings and information about local businesses. This area of the city, part of the Fourth Ward, served as a cultural center for African Americans. In 1870, several Freedmen’s Bureau schools were consolidated at Gregory School, which became the wood-frame Gregory Institute that was

www.africanamericansintexas.com 45 Buffalo Soldier reenactor interprets the story of African Americans in military service from the Civil War to the present, Buffalo Soldiers National Museum, Houston.

Buffalo Soldiers Houston Negro Hospital National Museum The Houston Negro Founded in 2000, the Hospital (now Riverside Buffalo Soldiers National General Hospital) was built Museum preserves and in 1926 in Houston’s Third promotes the history and Ward. The three-story, Spanish traditions of African Americans Colonial Revival-style building who served in the U.S. armed was Houston’s first nonprofit forces, including the Buffalo hospital for African American Soldiers. The museum tells the patients, and it provided a place stories of these largely unsung of work for black physicians heroes through exhibits and a who were largely excluded notable collection of artifacts. during segregation from the Touted as one of the world’s city’s Anglo hospitals. Today, largest collections of African the hospital continues to serve American military memorabilia the community as an active dating from 1770–2000, the medical facility. Be sure to museum is staffed principally visit nearby Emancipation Park, by military retirees who offer established in the 1870s by the their personal stories as part of efforts of Jack Yates and other the tour. An introductory video African Americans. Named in highlights the role played by commemoration of freedom African Americans in the armed from slavery, Emancipation forces since the American Park also hosts annual Revolution, and the museum Juneteenth events. (NR) hosts reenactments for an 3204 Ennis St. additional fee. www.riversidegeneral 3816 Caroline St. hospital.org 713-942-8920 www.buffalosoldier museum.com

46 www.thc.texas.gov Independence Heights Middle-class African American families moved into this area and established the neighborhood around 1908. Independence Heights was an important center for African American businesses, including retail stores, restaurants, building contractors, lumberyards and a blacksmith shop. Residents also formed a number of fraternal Artists rotate through the studios, Project organizations and churches Row Houses, Houston. in the community. By 1915, Project Row Houses the community had grown Shotgun houses, defined as to more than 400, and narrow rectangular residences the residents incorporated usually no more than 12 feet Independence Heights wide and with doors at each as a city, electing George end, were built in many O. Burgess as the first mayor. Southern cities as large numbers The city invested substantially of former slaves migrated in improvements, including from the country to the cities shell paving for streets, plank in search of opportunity. The sidewalks and a municipal water term “shotgun house” is widely system. In 1929, the growing thought to be a reference to city of Houston annexed the idea that a blast of shotgun Independence Heights. (NR, SM) pellets could fly straight through Bounded by North Yale Street, all rooms of the house if the East 34th Street and Loop 610; doors were open. The plan is State marker at 7818 N. Main St. thought to have origins in Africa and the Caribbean. Spreading across 10 blocks, the Project Row Houses community contains 55 buildings— including 25 shotgun houses and the historic Eldorado Ballroom—many of which have been converted to art spaces, artist residencies and mixed-income housing. This unique, community-based project brings together ideals of historic preservation, neighborhood revitalization and cultural education. Visitors can enjoy year-round events. 2521 Holman St. • 713-526-7662 www.projectrowhouses.org

Houston Negro Hospital is now Riverside General Hospital.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 47 Rutherford B.H. Yates House is the Colonial-style house that belonged to the Rev. Ned Pullum. The Pullum House was purchased as part of an ongoing campaign, led by the Rutherford B.H. Yates Museum, Inc., to raise capital for the purchase and restoration of historic properties in the Freedmen’s Town Historic District, which has already lost many of its original properties to nearby construction and gentrification projects. (NR, RTHL) The Rutherford B.H. Yates Museum 1314 Andrews St. • 713-739-0163 features artifacts from on-site archeological excavations, Houston. www.rbhy.org

Rutherford B.H. Texas Southern University Yates House Located just a few miles south Built in 1912, this charming of downtown Houston, Texas house sits in the historic Southern University’s (TSU) Freedmen’s Town neighborhood founding dates to 1927, in Houston’s Fourth Ward. The when it was established as house serves as a small museum the Houston Colored Junior dedicated to Rutherford B.H. College with an enrollment Yates, who graduated from of 300. The university Bishop College in Marshall experienced growth throughout with a printing degree and later the 20th century, becoming a went on to teach at the Houston state university in 1947. It now Academy. Along with his enrolls nearly 10,000 students. brother, Paul, he founded During the past six decades, the Yates Printing Company TSU students have showcased in 1922, and the business cultural events and artistic continued its operations until expression by painting 1978. The Rutherford B.H. colorful murals in the campus’ Yates Museum is dedicated Hannah Hall. Recent grants to preserving the history of have funded careful restoration both the Yates family and African American printing, of the inspirational murals, and it includes a number of which are accessible via public artifacts found on the grounds. tours the first Sunday of every The museum hosts an annual month. TSU also houses an Juneteenth celebration and impressive archive collection, also sponsors special events including the papers of during African American prominent African American History Month (February). legislators Barbara Jordan and The Yates House, which Mickey Leland, as well as belonged to Rutherford’s father significant art holdings in Jack Yates, was moved from its University Museum. The this area in 1994 and now sits museum’s highlights include in nearby Sam Houston Park. the African Art Collection, the Across the street from the Carroll Harris Simms Sculpture 48 www.thc.texas.gov Collection and the Alumni moved it to this location to Art Collection. preserve it. A former slave, 3100 Cleburne St. • 713-313-7011 the Rev. Jack Yates played a www.tsu.edu prominent role in the religious and civic life of Houston’s Trinity United African American community. Methodist Church Yates helped found and also Established in 1848 as a slave preached at a number of local congregation, the Trinity United churches, including the Antioch Methodist Church continues Missionary Baptist Church, its service today as one of whose beautiful sanctuary stands just a few blocks from the oldest African American the park. Yates also helped churches in Houston. Members found several schools. His of the congregation helped son’s home, now the Rutherford found a variety of local B.H. Yates Museum, remains in educational institutions, its original location in nearby including the Freedmen’s Aid Freedmen’s Town. Society, Wiley College and The Yates House contains Houston Colored Junior a large collection of artifacts College (later incorporated into and memorabilia from the Yates Texas Southern University), and family. The Heritage Society a number of area schools are hosts tours of the facilities named for members of the and collections. Stop by the Trinity congregation. The museum and register at the current sanctuary, built in 1951, entrance desk. Be sure to specify contains a set of large stained- the Yates House, as the tour glass windows depicting both generally makes four stops, religious and civil rights themes. chosen by participants, among Visitors can see the windows the various properties in the and read about the history on park. Also, visitors should set the church’s website. (SM) aside time to stroll along the 2600 Holman St. • 713-528-2356 paths leading through the park www.trinityeastumc.org past other historic buildings, including the 4th Ward Yates House, Cottage. Cell phones are Sam Houston Park recommended because the This house was built in 1870 Heritage Society has a phone and originally sat in nearby tour for visitors to access Freedmen’s Town—now and hear information about Houston’s Fourth Ward—before each building. the Houston Heritage Society 1100 Bagby St. • 713-655-1912 www.heritagesociety.org Trinity United Methodist Church, Houston.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 49 St. John Colony Cemetery, Lockhart.

21 I KENDLETON barbecue pits, a playground, a Fort Bend fishing pier and boat launch. County Heritage There are two cemetery sites Unlimited Museum along the river, some of the last This museum sits a stone’s remaining signs of the original throw from the original site of Kendleton community site. Kendleton, a freedmen’s town Included in the cemetery is founded shortly after the Civil the grave marker for Benjamin War on the banks of the San Franklin Williams, a former Bernard River. The museum slave who rose to prominence as focuses on the lives of African a preacher, community activist Americans in the surrounding and Texas legislator before area. The museum’s permanent settling in the area and exhibits depict the lifestyles of accepting an appointment as African American settlers and Kendleton’s first postmaster. residents from 1865–1965. 630 Charlie Roberts Ln. Rotating displays focus on 979-531-8694 topics of interest like African www.fbcheritage.org American politics and church history (Barbara Jordan’s father 22 I LOCKHART was a minister in one of the St. John Colony local churches). Of particular This freedmen’s community interest is the museum’s took its name from the St. John genealogy corner, where Missionary Baptist Church, volunteers assist individuals founded in 1873, shortly after on researching family history. settlers led by the Rev. John The museum also hosts Henry Winn arrived in the area. activities, such as quilting Across the road from the church workshops, heritage days, is the official marker for the local art displays and an cemetery, which includes the emancipation reenactment. graves of many of the colony’s Bates Allen Park, where the original inhabitants. (SM) museum is located, also features 12 miles northeast of Lockhart a variety of other recreational on FM 672, 0.2 miles east opportunities with plenty of of CR 294/CR 167 intersection amenities, including restrooms,

50 www.thc.texas.gov > BASEBALL Pow! That’s the sound the ball made when Satchel Paige’s mighty fastball hit the catcher’s glove. San Antonio native John Through high school, Miles knows because he faced city and corporate athletic the legendary Negro Leagues programs, the African American pitcher on several occasions. community in Texas shared an Before Jackie Robinson broke enthusiastic companionship Major League Baseball’s (MLB) and sportsmanship. They color barrier in 1947, the Negro continue to serve as Leagues were the only option galvanizing entities today. for Texas athletes like Miles, Many small-town Texas who “just wanted to play ball.” sandlots launched the careers In the 1920s, the Texas of skilled ballplayers who Negro League produced stars went on to become all-stars with remarkable skills who in the Negro Leagues, rivaled their MLB counterparts. including Calvert’s Andrew Miles once hit home runs in “Rube” Foster, Giddings’ 11 consecutive games (an Hilton Smith and Seguin’s unmatched accomplishment Smokey Joe Williams. Each in MLB history), and Austin of them, along with Wells, native Willie Wells, a clutch ultimately received their due hitter and formidable fielder recognition when they were known as the “Shakespeare inducted into the National of Shortstops,” gained fame Baseball Hall of Fame by the in the 1940s as a respected Veterans Committee. player-manager with the Negro

Galveston County Historical Commission 1867 Settlement Historic District Collection Leagues’ Newark Eagles.

Segregated Pan American Oil baseball team in the 1930s, Texas City. . www.africanamericansintexas.comwww.africanamericansintexas.com 51 Sweet Home Vocational and Agricultural High School, Seguin.

23 I PRAIRIE VIEW important roles in helping Prairie View secure Texas’ independence A&M University from Mexico during the Texas This university was established Revolution (Oct. 2, 1835– as the Alta Vista Agricultural April 21, 1836). Texian and Mechanical College of forces benefited from the Texas for Colored Youth when contributions of both freedmen the Alta Vista Plantation was and slaves who made great deeded to the state in 1876. sacrifices for their adopted Later renamed Prairie View country. At the Alamo, Agricultural and Mechanical William B. Travis’ slave, Joe, University, this was the only fought in the battle (see caption, publicly funded historically page 5). In an attempt to African American college in disparage Texians, Gen. Santa Texas for years. The campus Anna freed Joe after the battle has several historic buildings to tell the story of how the designed by renowned African Mexican Army crushed the American architects who Texian defenders. Although Joe studied and later taught at eventually recounted the fall the university. (NR, SM) of the Alamo to the Texas FM 1098 and University Drive cabinet, accounts of the battle 936-261-3311 • www.pvamu.edu served to galvanize the Texas revolutionaries into action, 24 I SAN ANTONIO as demonstrated by their famous Also part of the Texas Hill battle cry, “Remember the Country Trail Region Alamo!” Visitors can read Joe’s The Alamo entire account, as recorded by Many African Americans, William Fairfax Gray, on the including Greenbury Logan, Alamo’s official website. (NHL, RTHL) William E. “Bill” Goyens and 300 Alamo Plaza • 210-225-1391 Samuel McCullough, Jr., played www.thealamo.org

52 www.thc.texas.gov St. Paul United Subject Marker, the story Methodist Church continues to be told today at With a congregation first the Seguin-Guadalupe County organized in 1866, St. Paul Heritage Museum through a United Methodist Church pottery artifact display. is one of the oldest African 114 N. River St. • 830-372-0965 American churches in San www.theheritagemuseum.org Antonio. The first congregation comprised former slaves and Sweet Home Vocational freedmen from Paine Chapel and Agricultural Methodist Episcopal Church. High School The current building— Sweet Home Vocational and easily recognizable by the Agricultural High School striking octagonal towers that operated from 1924–1962. flank the main doors—was Sweet Home was one of the constructed in 1922. The county’s six Rosenwald Schools, United Methodist Church has financed in part by a donation designated St. Paul United from the Rosenwald Fund, Methodist Church as its 397th which provided matching historical site. (SM) funds to African American 508 N. Center St. • 210-227-2525 communities to build www.stpaulofsanantonio.com public schools. The schoolhouse included a library, four primary 25 I SEGUIN classrooms and a kitchen; the Seguin-Guadalupe County campus also had several separate Heritage Museum dormitory buildings. Accredited In 1869, James, Hiram and as a public high school in 1935, Wallace Wilson opened the Sweet Home, like many African H. Wilson & Co. pottery shop American schools, focused on and operated it until 1884. The training students for industrial three former slaves had split off and agricultural jobs following from the business once owned a strategy for empowering black by their former master, John M. communities made popular by Wilson. By their success, both Booker T. Washington’s famous in building a business and as Tuskegee Institute. Today, craftsmen creating unique the building serves as a pottery, the freedmen community center. (NR, RTHL) demonstrated that African 3340 Sweet Home Rd. Americans could be prosperous entrepreneurs at a time when Southern Anglos actively sought to keep former slaves tied to the land as sharecroppers. Although the location of Wilson Potteries has now become an archeological site that is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and received an official Texas Historical

Wilson pottery, Seguin-Guadalupe County Heritage Museum, Seguin.

www.africanamericansintexas.com 53 26 I TEXAS CITY 27 I WASHINGTON The 1867 Settlement Washington-on- Historic District the-Brazos State The 1867 Settlement Historic Site Historic District is the only The 293-acre state historic site Reconstruction-era African marks the original town location American community in of Washington, an important Galveston County. The Bell, political and commercial center Britton, Caldwell and Hobgood in early Texas. Delegates to the families, whose patriarchs were Convention of 1836 met here African American cowboys, to draft and sign the Texas pioneered the community, Declaration of Independence which was self-sustained for and create a constitution for the more than 100 years. The new Republic. The Star of the men survived the hardships of Republic Museum has several slavery, including being torn displays dedicated to the from their families during the roles of African Americans Civil War to serve their masters in the Republic, including on the battlefield and drive contributions made during cattle for the Confederacy. the Texas Revolution. Stop by When freedom came in June the Barrington Living History 1865, the men worked on Farm, where visitors can the Butler Ranch in north participate in daily activities Galveston County; some had alongside costumed interpreters been slaves of the Butler who explain the lifestyles and family. In 1867, they began technologies of Texans 150 years contracting acreage from Judge ago and perform some of the William Jones with money same tasks on the farm as its earned by driving cattle up original residents. The farm also the Chisholm Trail to Kansas. includes replica quarters where After the Civil War, Judge Jones visitors can learn more about set aside the only land in the the personal lives of enslaved county available for purchase people in Texas. (SM) by freedmen who could 12300 Park Rd. 12 (at FM 1155) get testimonials from local 936-878-2214 businessmen proclaiming their www.wheretexasbecame good morals and work ethics. texas.com Many descendants of the original pioneers still reside 28 I WEST or own property within COLUMBIA the historic community Columbia Rosenwald boundaries, where trail rides School and horses are common sights. One of four Rosenwald Schools Interpretative kiosks and in Brazoria County, the historical markers are located Columbia Rosenwald School operated from 1921 until 1948, throughout the district. The when it was closed after the oldest structure, the 1887 Frank consolidation of the West and Sr. and Flavilla Bell home, is East Columbia School Districts. being restored for development The school was financed with as a community museum. a grant from the Rosenwald (NR, SM, HTC) Fund—which provided 117 S. Bell Dr. 54 www.thc.texas.gov Sugarcane cooking pots, Varner-Hogg Plantation State Historic Site, West Columbia. matching grants to build public plantation that operated schools for African American continuously until the Civil children—as well as local War. Slaves made bricks by monies and contributions from hand and constructed many the community. One teacher buildings on this site, including taught first through seventh the plantation house and slaves’ grades at the same time in the quarters. The line of bricks that one-room school, until eighth surrounds the large kettle is all grade was added in the 1940s. that remains of the sugar mill, After the school closed, it where slaves processed sugarcane was moved and used as a hay to produce molasses by boiling barn. In 1995, the deteriorated it in kettles. The availability structure was identified as a of brick materials was probably Rosenwald School and moved one reason why this site to its current location behind the Columbia Historical appealed to the original settlers, Museum, which owns and and income derived from the operates the school building. manufacture and sale of bricks It was restored in 2009. (SM) may have supplemented 247 E. Brazos • 979-345-6125 the plantation’s agricultural www.columbiarosenwald production. Varner-Hogg school.com Plantation State Historic Site, a Texas Historical Commission Varner-Hogg Plantation property, is open regularly State Historic Site for guided tours. (NR, RTHL) Following Stephen F. Austin 1702 N. 13th St. • 979-345-4656 to Texas, Martin Varner and www.visitvhp.com several slaves settled on this land in 1824. In 1834, Varner sold the land to the Patton family, who brought a large number of slaves to the property and established it as a sugar

www.africanamericansintexas.com 55 > TEXAS JAZZ AND BLUES Texas has long been a hub for musical innovation. Western swing, rock ’n’ roll, conjunto, country and the blues were all greatly influenced by Texans. When the Great Depression hit, many jazz and blues musicians moved to cities like Houston, Dallas and Galveston, where they created a style known as Texas blues—a melding of jazz and blues. African American jazz and blues musicians with ties to Texas include legends Blind Lemon Jefferson, Blind Willie Johnson, pianist and singer Charles Brown, singer and guitarist Robert Johnson, swing-era composer Eddie Durham and jazz guitarist Charlie Christian—to name just a few. Jefferson’s originality on Johnson cut his tracks in an the guitar, accompanied by his unknown room of the hotel distinctively high-pitched voice, in November 1936. Although earned him the title “Father of he died at age 27 in 1938, the Texas Blues.” Jefferson was this influential singer and one of the most popular blues guitarist was awarded the singers of the 1920s, and his Grammy Recording Academy’s musical style influenced the Lifetime Achievement Award in likes of vocalist “Texas 2006. The Gunter Hotel lobby Nightingale” Sippie Wallace, contains several displays singer/guitarist Aaron Thibeaux commemorating the recording “T-Bone” Walker, singer/ session and Johnson’s guitarist Sam “Lightnin’” impressive, but short career. (NR) Hopkins and singer/guitarist Interactive exhibits housed Huddie “Leadbelly” Ledbetter. in the Museum of Regional The Gunter Hotel in San History in Texarkana relate Antonio is the site of one of stories of Scott Joplin, dubbed Robert Johnson’s two recording the “King of Ragtime,” along sessions. Hailed posthumously with Ledbetter’s enduring as “King of the Delta Blues,” musical legacy.

Musical heritage mural, Deep Ellum Historic District, Dallas (see page 58). 56 www.thc.texas.gov 56 LAKES

TEXAS LAKES TRAIL REGION www.texaslakestrail.com

Slave-made chairs of wood and straw or bark, African American Museum of Dallas.

29 I DALLAS African American Museum of Dallas This museum houses documents and art relating to the African American experience. The museum’s permanent displays include African artifacts, folk art, furniture and decorative pieces. As part of its mission to educate the public about African American history and culture, the museum hosts a variety of functions, including special exhibits, lectures, workshops, music festivals and other events. 3536 Grand Ave. in Fair Park • 214-565-9026 • www.aamdallas.org

Booker T. Washington High School for the Performing and Visual Arts Constructed in 1922, Booker T. Washington High School replaced the older Dallas Colored High School. The student body traces its origins to 1892, when the Dallas Board of Education created the segregated city’s first African American high school. During its first 17 years of operation, the often-overcrowded school served every African American student in Dallas County. In 1976, facing court-ordered desegregation, the Dallas Independent School District redesignated Booker T. Washington as a magnet school for artistically gifted students aspiring to future careers in the performing and visual arts. 2501 Flora St. • 972-925-1200 • www.dallasisd.org/btw

www.africanamericansintexas.com 57 Deep Ellum Historic District Prior to World War II, when segregation divided Anglo and black residents in Dallas, African American commerce clustered in Deep Ellum. In the 1920s–30s, blues musicians Blind Lemon Jefferson, Bessie Smith and Sam “Lightnin’” Hopkins played in the district’s clubs. Today, there are a number of shops, live music venues and sidewalk cafés in this area, where colorful and innovative murals decorate many of the walls. Bounded by Elm, Commerce, Oakland and Good Latimer streets

Freedman’s Cemetery Memorial Freedman’s Cemetery, as the name suggests, belonged to a community of former slaves established in this area after the Civil War. Dedicated in 1869, the cemetery closed in the 1920s and suffered from both neglect and vandalism. In the “The Sentinel” depicts an African warrior, Freedman’s Cemetery 1930s–40s, the construction Memorial, Dallas. of an expressway and a major intersection eliminated most graves, which were carefully of the remaining above-ground relocated, and the local reminders of the cemetery. In community constructed the late 1980s, efforts to expand this memorial. Sculptures by the city’s Central Expressway David Newton tell the story led members of the local of African Americans and community, including their descendants’ journey descendants of those buried from slavery to emancipation. in the cemetery, to wage a Poems around the perimeter successful campaign to halt also commemorate those freeway construction long originally buried here. (SM) enough for an archeological survey and excavations of the Southwest corner cemetery and the relocation of North Central Expressway of those interred within it. 2700 Lemmon Ave. Between 1991–94, an archeological investigation uncovered more than 1,000

58 www.thc.texas.gov Juanita J. Craft projects in Dallas, as well as Civil Rights House projects in Fort Worth, Houston The Juanita J. Craft Civil Rights and San Antonio. Built in the House is one of only three Beaux Arts style, the Knights house museums in the of Pythias building served as nation honoring major the social and business center female figures in the modern for Dallas’ African Americans. civil rights movement. Craft, Besides providing a venue for a a leading civil rights and social wide array of notable speakers justice reformer, lived in this and performers, including 1920 Craftsman bungalow for Marcus Garvey, George 35 years. She organized 185 Washington Carver and the National Association for the Fisk Jubilee Singers, the Advancement of Colored People building provided office space, (NAACP) branches and dozens often in short supply in the of youth councils across Texas, segregated city, for African and helped lead efforts to American professionals. desegregate the University of Through fraternal Texas School of Law, North organizations such as the Texas State University (now Knights of Pythias and Masons, University of North Texas) as well as political activism, and the State Fair of Texas. African Americans gained She participated in four prominence in Texas. By presidential conferences, persevering to lift social barriers was elected to two terms and determination to create as a Dallas city councilwoman a better life for their families and was honored with Dallas’ and communities, early Texas highest civic honor, the Linz leaders emerged, such as Award. In addition to this William McDonald, a Fort site, Dallas has named a park, Worth businessman, politician recreation center and post office and founder of the Fraternal after Craft. (NR, RTHL) Bank and Trust Company, the 2618 Warren Ave. chief depository for the state’s African American Masonic Knights of Pythias Temple lodges. Women also found The Grand Lodge of the recognition as members Colored Knights of Pythias of social and cultural Temple was completed in 1916. organizations—such as Jack Designed by William Sidney and Jill of America, Inc. and Pittman, a renowned African The Links—and as leaders of American architect, it is education, humanitarian and considered one of the most political causes. distinctive buildings in the 2551 Elm St. Deep Ellum district. Influential architect Pittman, married to Portia Washington, daughter of Booker T. Washington, moved to Dallas in 1913 and was the first practicing African American architect in Texas. He designed at least seven major

www.africanamericansintexas.com 59 Queen City Heights with its high archways and Historic District beautiful stained-glass windows, Farmers and workers settled was completed in 1927. The here during Reconstruction, building has many features in and Queen City Heights common with Allen Chapel continued to attract working- African Methodist Episcopal class African American families Church, in nearby Fort Worth as Dallas grew throughout the (see page 62); accomplished 20th century. The district’s architect William Sidney growth helped spur the Pittman, who designed that development of surrounding sanctuary, is also linked to African American neighbor- this building. Today, the hoods. When touring the renovated St. Paul United district, Exline Park, at the Methodist Church is at the corner of Eugene and Latimer center of the downtown arts streets, is a nice stop for a picnic district, right across from the or rest. (NR) Booker T. Washington High Bounded by Eugene, School for the Performing Cooper, Latimer, Kynard and Visual Arts. The church and Dildock streets hosts regular music events, including a jazz night, and St. Paul United has a permanent display of Methodist Church archeological items excavated Organized in 1873 to minister by University of Texas students to former slaves, this is one of and other items that tell the the oldest African American story of the church and Dallas’ congregations in Dallas. The Freedmen’s Town. (RTHL) distinctive red-brick structure, 1816 Routh St. • 214-922-0000 www.stpaulumcdallas.com

Dallas’ Queen City Heights Historic District was established during Reconstruction.

60 www.thc.texas.gov The Denton County African American Museum is housed in a restored home from Quakertown, an early African American neighborhood in Denton.

Tenth Street 30 I DENTON Historic District Denton County African This is one of the few remaining American Museum freedmen’s towns in the South (Quakertown House) that still retains a significant Built in 1904, the house that amount of its original holds the Denton County construction. Look for the African American Museum smaller shotgun houses—the once belonged to an African homes have rectangular floor American Quakertown in plans with adjoining rooms, Denton. The house was moved rather than hallways—and their in 1922 to southeast Denton, larger counterparts, the double after the city forcibly relocated shotgun and camelback houses. the Quakertown community to Most of these dwellings were make way for the Denton Civic built prior to World War II, and Center Park. Today, the house a few date to the 1890s. (NR, SM) has been moved close to its Roughly bounded by East original setting in downtown Clarendon Drive, South Denton. In addition to Fleming Avenue, I-35 East, chronicling the lives of the East 8th Street and the east African American families end of Church, East 9th of Denton County and the and Plum streets Quakertown experience, the award-winning museum has an interesting collection of papers and medical supplies of Dr. Edwin D. Moten, Denton’s first African American doctor. The museum also hosts special events, and groups can schedule guided tours. 317 W. Mulberry St. 940-349-2850

www.africanamericansintexas.com 61 Tudor Gothic Revival sanctuary, Allen Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church, Fort Worth.

31 I FORT WORTH in Texas were African American, Allen Chapel Latino or American Indian. African Methodist Founded in 2001, the National Episcopal Church Multicultural Western Heritage The Allen Chapel African Museum highlights the Methodist Episcopal Church important contributions was organized in 1875, and of these ethnically diverse William Sidney Pittman drew cowboys to the unique culture up the designs for this sanctuary of the West. The museum also in 1914. The building’s design celebrates the contributions demonstrates a modified Tudor of other African Americans, Gothic Revival style, with tall such as the Buffalo Soldiers, stained-glass windows and a the Tuskegee Airmen and early bell tower on one corner. To African American flying pioneer see another well-preserved, Bessie Coleman. Formerly architecturally similar structure, known as the National Cowboys visit St. Paul United Methodist of Color Museum and Hall of Church in Dallas (see page 60). Fame, the museum’s Hall of

(NR, RTHL, SM) Fame recognizes individuals 116 Elm St. • 817-332-5071 who were instrumental in the www.allenchapelfw.org formation of Western history, such as Bill Pickett and Bose National Multicultural Ikard. The museum hosts a Western Heritage Museum variety of events, including In the Wild West, when Anglos weekly workshops, children’s and non-Anglos tended to storytelling and holiday events. move in separate social spheres, 3400 Mount Vernon Ave. cowboys were an unusually 817-534-8801 integrated lot; one-third or www.cowboysofcolor.org more of the working cowboys

62 www.thc.texas.gov Stop Six Historic African Wyatt Street Shotgun American Neighborhood House Historic District This working-class African Built from 1900–1935, the American neighborhood, once Wyatt Street shotgun houses the sixth stop on the Northern feature a design—three to five Texas Traction Company line rooms with no hallways— running between Dallas and with origins in Africa and the Fort Worth, was originally Caribbean. Built and inhabited known as Cowanville. by the city’s booming African Throughout the neighborhood American population, shotgun visitors will see early-20th- houses were cheap to build, century houses. The school and their narrow designs at 5100 Willie St. was built in allowed for good airflow, an 1924 with funding from the important consideration in Julius Rosenwald Foundation, hot climates prior to the advent much like Booker T. of air conditioning. Shotgun Washington High School housing was a common in Dallas (see page 57). residential building type Bounded by Rosedale, Loop 820 throughout the South South and Miller streets from Reconstruction to the early 20th century. (NR) 32 I WAXAHACHIE East side of the 300 block Joshua Chapel of Wyatt Street African Methodist Episcopal Church First organized in 1876, Joshua Chapel African Methodist Episcopal (AME) Church took its name from the Rev. Joshua Goins, who founded AME churches throughout Texas. William Sidney Pittman designed the two-story, red- brick sanctuary, constructed in 1917. The Romanesque Revival-style design features walls of large windows supported by exterior buttresses. Periodically, the Ellis County Museum hosts tours of the church and lectures about Pittman, and the church is open during the annual Gingerbread Trail event. (RTHL) 110 N. Aiken St.

Northern Texas Traction Company sign, Stop Six Historic African American neighborhood, Fort Worth. www.africanamericansintexas.com 63 MOUNTAIN

TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION www.texasmountaintrail.com

“The Errand of Corporal Ross,” Fort Bliss, El Paso.

33 I EL PASO Buffalo Soldier Memorial of El Paso In 1866, the U.S. established six regiments of African Americans, eventually known as Buffalo Soldiers, which served on the western frontier, particularly in the set of actions collectively described as the Indian Wars. The six original military units included the 9th and 10th U.S. Cavalry, and the 38th, 39th, 40th and 41st U.S. Infantry. From 1866–1901, several of the Buffalo Soldier regiments garrisoned at Fort Bliss. Erected in 1999, “The Errand of Corporal Ross” is a memorial statue depicting Corp. John Ross, Troop I of the 9th U.S. Cavalry, riding on horseback, rifle in hand, against the Mescalero Apache Indians during the Guadalupe Campaign. By the gate entrance at Buffalo Soldiers Road Fort Bliss Army base

Dr. Lawrence Nixon’s Office/McCall Neighborhood Center This community center honors the memory of Dr. Lawrence Nixon, an African American physician whose legal battles helped secure voting rights for blacks in Texas. A small collection of artifacts within the building pays tribute to this important civil rights leader, while a plaque outside the center commemorates Nixon and noted African American soldier Henry O. Flipper. (SM) 3231 Wyoming Ave. • 915-566-2407 www.mccallneighborhoodcenter.org

64 www.thc.texas.gov TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL REGION www.texasmountaintrail.com

Memorial Gymnasium In 1966 at Texas Western College, now the University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP), Don Haskins became the first coach ever to start a squad of five African American players in a championship basketball game. The team beat the University of Kentucky in College Park, Maryland, to win the National Collegiate Athletic Association basketball championship, 1966 NCAA Men’s Division I and the event is credited with basketball championship team breaking the color barrier members Togo Railey and Willie Cager, Memorial Gymnasium, El Paso. in college sports. Haskins described it further in his to see the UTEP Miners play at autobiography, Glory Road, the Don Haskins Center, built which later was produced into in 1976. a film of the same name that The University of Texas focused on the game. The at El Paso school’s basketball teams no East Robinson Avenue and longer play their home games North Oregon Street (south at Memorial Gymnasium, but of the Don Haskins Center) basketball fans can plan ahead www.africanamericansintexas.com 65 Old Fort Bliss 34 I FORT DAVIS Located at Fort Bliss Army base, Fort Davis National the adobe buildings at Old Fort Historic Site Bliss are replicas of the original Fort Davis was an active fort and serve as the center for military post from 1854–1891, the children’s bicultural living except for a brief period during history program. Each year, and following the Civil War. living history educators provide In 1867, four companies of the tours to explain the legacy of the 9th U.S. Cavalry rode into the fort, where Buffalo Soldiers were fort to reestablish and rebuild stationed from 1866–1901. The the military post. All of the site features an animal cemetery regiments of Buffalo Soldiers— to honor the animals that served including the 9th and 10th military personnel at Fort Bliss. U.S. Cavalry and the 24th The base also has several other and 25th U.S. Infantry—were museums, historic homes and headquartered here at some displays that visitors can enjoy point during the Indian Wars while on post. Visitor passes are period. The site highlights available at base entrances. (SM) the experiences of the Buffalo Near the gate Soldiers in an introductory film entrance at detailing the fort’s history, Pleasanton and Sheridan roads historic buildings, parade 915-568-5412 grounds and museum exhibits. Living history interpreters tell the story of the enlisted men, officers and civilians who lived at the fort. Education days, Junior Ranger Days and other living history events also provide visitors with learning opportunities. Fort Davis is administered by the National Park Service.

(NHL, NR, SM) 101 Lt. Henry Flipper Dr. 432-426-3224 www.nps.gov/foda

Above: Restored Fort Davis barracks with century plant. Right: Replica cartridge belt, Fort Davis National Historic Site.

66 www.thc.texas.gov PECOS

TEXAS PECOS TRAIL REGION www.texaspecostrail.com

Black Seminole scout buried at the Seminole Indian Scout Cemetery, Fort Clark, Brackettville.

35 I BRACKETTVILLE Black Seminole Indian Scout Cemetery The descendants of escaped slaves and Florida’s Seminole Indians, the Black Seminole Indian Scouts were known as unparalleled trackers and fearless combatants. The U.S. Army organized the scout unit in 1870, and the scouts were stationed at Fort Clark (see next page) in 1872, when the cemetery was first established. Four of the scouts buried here—Adam Payne (Paine), Isaac Payne, John Ward and Pompey Factor—received the Medal of Honor. Look for the small carving at the center of the soldiers’ tombstones of a reproduction of the Army’s version of the medal, which has a five- pointed star, surrounded by a wreath and containing a representation of the goddess Minerva. When visiting this site, set aside time to see the museum at Fort Clark to gain a more thorough understanding of the Buffalo Soldiers and Texas military history. (SM, HTC) 3 miles west of Old Fort Clark on RM 3348

www.africanamericansintexas.com 67 Black Seminole Scout 1st Sgt. Ben July, Fort Clark Springs, Old Guardhouse Museum, Brackettville.

Old Guardhouse Museum the Civil War. With the end The well-preserved Fort Clark of the Civil War and slavery, served as the post for numerous this group of Black Seminoles Buffalo Soldier infantry and returned to the U.S., where the cavalry units. In particular, the U.S. Army recruited them to Black Seminole Indian Scouts form the Black Seminole Indian were stationed here and served Scouts. The fort’s history and alongside Buffalo Soldiers of the legacy, from the Black Seminole 24th and 25th U.S. Infantry. Indian Scouts through the 2nd The scouts descended primarily U.S. Cavalry Division (the from runaway slaves who found only African American cavalry refuge in the swamps of Florida. division in World War II), have Black Seminoles endured a been painstakingly preserved forced migration from Florida and researched by the Fort to reservations in Oklahoma Clark Historical Society. The after 1838. Deprived of the guardhouse serves as a museum right to bear arms and faced to highlight the fort’s history, with the threat of enslavement including pictures, artifacts in the South, the group that and memorabilia from several eventually became the Black African American military units. Seminole Indian Scouts left the The area is accommodating reservation under the direction to travelers looking to stay of a leader named John Horse overnight, with camping, and moved to Mexico prior to lodging and RV facilities

68 www.thc.texas.gov military buildings at the site include officers’ quarters, barracks, a guardhouse and prisoner cells. The museum features an informational video as well as photo exhibits on the Buffalo Soldiers. Each year on the third Saturday of October, the city celebrates Old Fort Day with living history exhibits.

(NR, SM) 300 E. 3rd St. 432-336-0282 37 I SHEFFIELD Fort Lancaster State Historic Site The U.S. Army established Fort Lancaster in 1855 near an important crossing of the Pecos River on the military road between San Antonio and El Paso. The garrison’s principal work was in providing escorts for mail carriers, wagon trains and settlers. Buffalo Soldiers from the 9th U.S. Cavalry used this sub-post of available, along with attractions Fort Stockton for a few years that include a spring-fed pool, following the Civil War, and playground and golf course. several engagements between (NR, RTHL) the soldiers and American Fort Clark Indians took place in Just west of this area. Fort Lancaster Brackettville on Highway State Historic Site, a Texas 90 West Historical Commission 830-563-2493 property, is open to visitors, www.fortclark.com/museum.html who may walk through the ruins and peruse the museum 36 I FORT exhibit. Events offered at Fort STOCKTON Lancaster include archeology Historic Fort Stockton awareness days and living Established in 1858, Fort history education days. (NR, SM) Stockton is notable for its 8 miles east association with Buffalo Soldiers of Sheffield from the 9th U.S. Cavalry, on U.S. 290 • 432-836-4391 who made it their headquarters www.visitfortlancaster.com beginning in 1867. Companies of the 10th U.S. Cavalry also served at the fort during its 19 years of activity. Today, the original and reconstructed

www.africanamericansintexas.com 69 PLAINS Milton Adams, Photographer TEXAS PLAINS TRAIL REGION www.texasplainstrail.com

C.B. Stubblefield in his original Stubb’s Bar-B-Que restaurant, Lubbock.

38 I LUBBOCK Chatman Hospital Chatman Hospital (now Chatman Community Health Center) was opened in 1945 by Dr. Joseph Alvin Chatman. For many years, it was the only medical facility for African Americans in this segregated city. Among his contributions to the community, Dr. Chatman spoke in local churches, participated in politics and served on the board of Texas Southern University and the Lone Star State Medical Society. The two- story cast stone building, designed by architect Louis Fry, suffered a major fire in 1987, but was restored in 1993 and re-opened in 1994. 2301 Cedar Ave.

Stubb’s Memorial Christopher B. Stubblefield was born in Navasota, and his family moved to Lubbock in the 1930s to pick cotton. “Stubb” learned to cook in local establishments and, later, oversaw daily meal preparations for as many as 10,000 soldiers as a staff sergeant during the Korean War. In 1968, he opened a barbecue restaurant that became a center of Lubbock’s music scene, attracting regular performers such as Joe Ely, Jimmie Dale Gilmore and Stevie Ray Vaughan. The restaurant burned in the 1980s, and Stubb moved it to Austin, where it continues to be a mainstay of food and live music. Stubblefield died in 1995, and a memorial statue was erected in 1999 on the site of the original Stubb’s Bar-B-Que. The site still features concerts and musical fundraisers. 108 E. Broadway St. 70 www.thc.texas.gov > RANCHING From the Coastal Plains to Big Bend to the Panhandle, African American cowboys and ranchers occupy a definitive place in Texas history. As many as one in three cowhands in the late 19th century was likely of African descent. While many of the first African American cowboys in Texas were born into slavery, after emancipation these Western legends blazed their own trail by developing herds, ranches and farms, leading cattle drives and demonstrating savvy roping and

Milton Adams, Photographer riding skills at area rodeos. TEXAS PLAINS TRAIL REGION William “Bill” Pickett, the in Weatherford (SM), which www.texasplainstrail.com first African American honoree commended him for his loyalty in the National Rodeo Hall of and “splendid behavior.” Fame, became renowned for Daniel Webster “80 John” his bull submission technique, Wallace was one of the first bulldogging, in which he African American ranchers in would bite the bull’s upper lip. Mitchell County. His parents Pickett performed in a number were slaves, but he was born of rodeos and shows all over after emancipation and later the world, and bulldogging pursued his dream of ranching. competitions continue today. Wallace first established Mathew “Bones” Hooks and himself as a cattle driver and James “Jim” Perry both wrangler, while saving money established outstanding for his own herd and land. reputations for roping skills, Becoming a well-respected paired with unmatched bronco rancher with more than 12 busting and horsebreaking 640-acre sections and more abilities, which were sought than 500 head of cattle, across the state. Wallace left behind a legacy Bose Ikard, a prominent of hard work and success. frontiersman and traildriver, The ranch house he built and worked with Charles raised his family in is preserved Goodnight and Oliver Loving at the National Ranching on what became known as the Heritage Center in Lubbock. Goodnight-Loving Trail. Ikard An exhibit at the American and Goodnight were lifelong Windpower Center in Lubbock friends, and Goodnight showcases his and other commemorated Ikard’s life with African American contributions a granite marker on his grave to ranching history in Texas.

Bill Pickett statue, Fortwww.africanamericansintexas.com Worth Stockyards. 71 TROPICAL

TEXAS TROPICAL TRAIL REGION www.texastropicaltrail.com

Exhibit on stable duty during frontier fort period, Fort Ringgold, Rio Grande City.

39 I BROWNSVILLE Palmito Ranch Battlefield The Battle of Palmito Ranch was the last land battle of the Civil War. It took place on May 12–13, 1865, weeks after the Confederate surrender at Appomattox Courthouse in Virginia. Union foot soldiers, including some from the 62nd U.S. Colored Infantry stationed on Brazos Island on the Texas Coast, came ashore on the night of May 11 en route to seize Brownsville. The Confederate troops outnumbered the Union forces and also possessed artillery and cavalry units. The Union troops were forced to retreat to Brazos Island. When visiting this site, watch for the marker, as the site is largely undeveloped and not obvious from the road. Also, a good pair of walking shoes or boots is recommended. (NHL, NR, SM for Battle of Palmito Ranch) 12 miles southeast of Brownsville on Highway 4 40 I LAREDO Fort McIntosh Historic District Fort McIntosh served as the post for numerous African American infantry and cavalry units who patrolled the area and guarded the nearby international crossing of the Rio Grande. Laredo Community College now uses the buildings, which have signs denoting their original purposes. A gallery in the library contains a collection of paintings and photos of the fort. (NR, RTHL, SM) Laredo Community College Campus West end of Washington Street

72 www.thc.texas.gov TEXAS TROPICAL TRAIL REGION www.texastropicaltrail.com

41 I RIO did not result in any charges, GRANDE CITY the U.S. Army relocated the Fort Ringgold Buffalo Soldiers to avoid further Established during the U.S.- conflict. Today, the remaining Mexico War, this fort became buildings of the fort belong to the site of a racial confrontation the local school district and are in 1899. Buffalo Soldiers of the still in use. (NR, SM) 9th U.S. Cavalry, fresh from Fort Ringgold victories in Cuba during the Campus Spanish-American War, came East Highway 83 to Fort Ringgold refusing to tolerate racial segregation in the local community and harassment by its civilian population. Tensions between the troops and local residents resulted in a disturbance on the night of Nov. 20, when Lt. E. H. Rubottom ordered his men to open fire with their Gatling guns. One person was injured and, although official investigations into the incident

www.africanamericansintexas.com 73 TEXAS HISTORICAL COMMISSION

This travel guide is made possible through the Texas Historical Commission’s partnership with the Texas Department of Transportation, Office of the Governor—Economic Development and Tourism, Texas Parks and Wildlife and Texas Commission on the Arts.

Concept Development Advisory Committee: Dr. Alwyn Barr, Historian/Author Gail Beil, Historian Donna Carter, former Commissioner, Texas Historical Commission Lareatha H. Clay, former Commissioner, Texas Historical Commission Dr. Maceo Dailey, University of Texas at El Paso Delicia Daniels, Wiley College Alecya Gallaway, Galveston County Historical Commission Karen Riles, formerly with Austin History Center and staff members of the Texas Historical Commission

For additional copies of this booklet, call 866-276-6219, or visit www.africanamericansintexas.com, where the mobile companion to this guide can also be downloaded.

The Texas Historical Commission, the state agency for historic preservation, administers a variety of programs to preserve the archeological, historical and cultural resources of Texas.

74 www.thc.texas.gov