sign in sign up
<<
Home , Ajwain, Allium tuberosum, Allspice, Anise, Calamintha, Chervil

An FNH-00026 Recipes and growing tips for enjoying your herb garden

hyssop arugula

calendula cilantro

balm lemon

An Alaska Herb Garden Recipes and growing tips for enjoying your herb garden

FNH-00026

UNI VERSITY O F ALASKA F AIRBANK S To simplify information, trade names of products have been used. No endorsement of named products by the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned.

www.uaf.edu/ces or 1-877-520-5211

Marsha Munsell, Extension Program Assistant, Health, Home and Family Development Published by the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service in cooperation with the Department of Agriculture. The University of Alaska Fairbanks is an affirmative action/equal opportunity employer and educational institution. ©2014 University of Alaska Fairbanks.

2014/MM/11-14 New November 2014 This book is dedicated to Barbara Fay, who has spent her life growing, preserving and cooking with in Alaska. Her years as an herb researcher at the University of Alaska Fairbanks Georgeson and at her own garden yielded the data we used in creating this book. She generously shared her notes and class materials to help us create the framework for An Alaska Herb Garden. Contributors A number of people contributed to this book. The information in Chapter 1, Cultivating Herbs, came from Pat Holloway, professor of and director of the Georgeson Botanical Garden, and Grant Matheke, retired horticulturist, University of Alaska Fairbanks. They spent many years studying herb cultivation and have generously contributed their data and knowledge to this publication.

Roxie Rodgers Dinstel and Marsha Munsell, University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service, and Virginia Damron, horticulturalist and herb enthusiast, compiled the information, tested recipes and provided editorial assistance.

Many thanks to all of the contributors. Without them, this book would never have been written. Contents

Cultivating Herbs...... 1 Harvesting Herbs...... 17 Storing Fresh Herbs...... 21 Using Herbs...... 29 Recipe Index...... 67 cultivating herbs

Herbs grown in Alaska include outdoor What we get out of the herb garden herbs, herbs grown in protect- in the way of and aroma depends ed cultivation (raised beds, containers, on the care and nurturing we give to the , high tunnels) and indoor : garden herbs. The biggest difference in Alaska herb compared to gardens • propagation at lower latitudes is winter survival. Many • care and maintenance herbs listed as perennials in garden cat- • how we harvest it alogs cannot tolerate the long, cold win- • how we preserve it ters in Alaska. Herbs used in a perennial • how we store it outdoor garden in warmer climates might • the care we take when we cook with it be relegated to pots or a windowsill garden From to table there are many with supplemental lights in Alaska (there opportunities to enhance or destroy is not enough natural light for a window- flavor. sill garden in the winter). The well-known Elizabethan knot gardens are challenging should be grown. True to establish in Alaska because rarely produces viable , so it is propa- traditionally used in the designs are not gated mostly by stem cuttings and hardy. Despite the challenges, however, (underground spreading stems). Some Alaskans can enjoy a bounty of culinary English produce only female herbs both outdoors and indoors, and by . Seeds from these plants can be using recommended preservation tech- highly variable because of cross-pollination niques, herbs can be enjoyed year-round. with related . propagating Rooted plants are expensive to purchase and ship, so many gardeners purchase one herbs plant and propagate it by cuttings to keep it Many common herbs, such alive for many years. Some perennial herbs as , basil, have been selected for specific qualities and sage, are propagated (e.g., dwarf growth habit, length of time easily by seeds that are to blooming, variegated foliage). These available from commercial cultivated varieties, or , have been sources and may be start- given names such as ' Carpet' thyme. ed year-round for indoor and outdoor Cultivars must be propagated by cuttings gardens. Other herbs, such as thyme and to maintain their unique horticultural some mints, are propagated by cuttings or characteristics. However, other herbs such division. Tarragon sold as seed is Russian as lavender, and can tarragon, which is worthless as a culinary be started from seed, but once they are herb. Only -propagated French established, they are easily propagated by cultivating herbs / 1 cuttings to get more plants or share with meal, then retest the pH over several days friends. until pH 6.5 is reached. seed propagation Moisten the mix and then sow the seeds, covering them with 2 to 4 times their Only a handful of herbs can be directly sown thickness unless they require light (Table in Alaska gardens because the season is too 1). Small seeds should be sown on the short for optimum growth. Some herbs, surface of the medium. Alternatively, use a however, can be directly sown in - thin covering of silvery horticultural-grade houses and high tunnels or beneath row vermiculite instead of seeding mix to pro- covers, all of which extend the season several vide a visual reminder that a container has weeks or months. Plants that barely grow to been sown. Mist the surface of the medium bloom stage in outdoor beds may self sow to prevent washing the seeds below the prolifically in beds. Wild herbs surface. Avoid pressing the surface with in Alaska such as lambsquarters (Chenopo- your hands to minimize contamination. dium album), wild (Matricaria Keep the soil moist but not wet. To prevent matricarioides) and wild chives ( drying, cover containers or flats with clear schoenoprasum) complete their life cycle so plastic wrap, rigid plastic or glass until the rapidly they may self sow outdoors, and they seeds germinate. are easy to direct sow in fall or spring. Indoor sowing requires good light. Fluores- Most herbs for outdoor gardens are sown cent shop lights timed for 16 to 20 hours of indoors and transplanted after the threat of light per day and suspended 4 to 6 inches frost has passed. Seed-propagated herbs re- above the top of the container are usually quire 5 to 20 weeks of indoor growth (Table sufficient. Suspend the lights on chains that 1), and most herbs germinate easily given a can be raised as the seedlings grow to allow warm, moist, well-lighted environment. sufficient light and minimize legginess. Many people place seedling flats in front Containers for seed starting include cleaned of a south-facing window, but — especially and sterilized flats, pots, cell packs or tiny in areas with plenty of spring sunshine — plug trays that hold 1 or 2 seeds per plug. they often find the seedlings are tall and Soak used containers for 30 minutes in a 10 leggy even in great light. The culprit is heat. percent bleach solution, rinse and thor- Air temperatures adjacent to windows can oughly air dry before sowing. A commercial often rise to 80°F and higher on sunny soilless -vermiculite/perlite seed start- spring days. The heat causes the seedlings ing mix works best for germinating herb to stretch and become weak, making trans- seeds because it is sterile, allows great drain- planting difficult. age and is fine enough so tiny seeds do not get buried too deeply. Make your own mix Leave seedlings in the seed-starting mix by combining sphagnum peat and vermic- until the first true appear, then ulite (equal parts by volume) and sieving it transplant them into a sterile potting mix. through a fine screen to create a very fine Allow the seeding mix to dry on the surface sowing surface. Test the pH; if it is too acid, to facilitate teasing apart individual seed- add dolomitic lime, hardwood ash or bone lings and minimize damage. Seedlings

2 / cultivating herbs should not be grown or held in the seed Cool soil and use for transplants. starting mix beyond their transplant date. It holds too much moisture for good growth, Many soilless, peat-lite potting mixes have and form a tangled mess that makes a additive, so seedlings may not separating the seedlings difficult. Leftover need fertilizer for the first 2 weeks after seedlings that are not transplanted can be transplanting. Seedlings require a complete used like sprouts in cooking. soluble fertilizer with a nitrogen-phospho- rus- level of 15-16-17 or 5-10-5 Commercial soilless potting mixes work or a commercial houseplant fertilizer. well for most herbs, but they can also be Follow the commercial package directions made from topsoil, well-rotted compost for rates and frequency. Maintain high light and commercial perlite (see “herbs in con- levels and an air temperature of 60° to 68°F. tainers, cold frames, raised beds and green- houses”). Perlite can be eliminated, but One week before planting, harden off watch the watering. The perlite helps with seedlings gradually by exposing them to drainage. Homemade mixes require pH ad- outdoor light levels, drying breezes and justment to 6.5 as well as pasteurization in cool air temperatures. Begin by setting flats to an internal temperature of 180°F outdoors in full sun for 2 hours on the first for 30 minutes. Place moistened potting day, 4 hours the second day, 6 hours on the mix in a baking tray and cover with foil. third day and 8 hours on the fourth day. Insert an -safe thermometer into the On the fifth day, flats can remain outdoors, center of the mix and bake at low tempera- protected from late season frost if necessary. tures until the thermometer reaches 180°F. In hot, sunny weather, start with 1 hour Keep at that temperature for 30 minutes. outdoors and increase by 2 hours daily.

Table 1. Seed of culinary herbs

Weeks to Name Temp Days to Comments transplant* (F)** germination 20 Lavender 70, 40, 70 15–20 Warm stratification 2 weeks,*** cold spp. stratification 4 weeks, then back to warm for germination; seed heavily. 17 Calamint 68 1–5 If no germination in 3–4 weeks, cold stratify 2–4 weeks, then try again. 15 Lemongrass 68 10–90 Slow and erratic germination; needs light for flexuosus germination; mostly propagated by division. 15 75 10+ Germination can be slow and erratic. 13 70–72 10–15 May be directly sown in fall or spring in mild Carum carvi regions. 13 , sweet 65 14–42 Cold stratify 2–4 months. Myrrhis odorata 13 Lovage, black 70, 40, 70 28–42 Warm 3 months, cold 2–3 months, then Smyrnium olisatrum return to warm for germination.

cultivating herbs / 3 12 Chives, , Chinese 60–70 10–14 Transplant singly. 12 Welsh 60–70 10–14 Transplant singly. 12 German garlic, flat- 60–70 10–14 Transplant singly. Allium senescens 12 Chives 60–70 10–14 Transplant in clumps; will self sow in the Allium schoenoprasum garden. 12 Dianthus, carnation 70–75 10–14 Dianthus caryophyllyus 12 68–72 7–10 If harvesting leaves, sow every 2 weeks; Foeniculum vulgare does not mature seeds except in green- house/high tunnels in warm locations. 12 Vietnamese coriander, Rau 72 21–60 Poor germination; many seeds may be Ram empty. Better propagated by cuttings. odoratum (Persi- caria odorata) 11 Ajmud, Indian 70–75 21–25 May take up to 1 month to complete germi- (Carum) nation. roxburghianum 11 , Ajowan, Bishop’s 70 12+ May take up to 1 month to complete germi- weed, Trachyspermum ammi nation. (Carum copticum) 11 Rosemary 55 18–21 11 Sweet mace, Mexican mint 68–77 7–21 Cover lightly. marigold lucida 10 Cilantro, coriander 70 10–14 Grown as cilantro: goes to seed rapidly so Coriandrum it is best direct seeded in plantings every 2 weeks. Grown for the seed: best started as transplants. 10 Pansy 65–75 10–20 Sow fresh seeds for best results. Viola x wittrockiana 10 , shisho 70 15–20 Needs light for germination. 10 Garland chrysanthemum, 68–70 10–18 Shungiku Chrysanthemum coronarium 10 68–70 10–14 piperita 10 Sweet woodruff 70 4–8 Use fresh seeds only; old seeds need cold Asperula odorata stratification of up to 1 year. 10 Verbena, lemon 70 30+ Difficult from seed; needs light for germina- tryphylla tion; better propagated by cuttings. 10 Viola 65–75 10–20 Sow fresh seeds. Viola spp. 4 / cultivating herbs 9 Anise hyssop 68–86 7 In milder parts of the state can be directly foeniculum sown in fall or spring. 9 Thyme, common 55 21–30 vulgaris 9 Thyme, creeping 55–80 5–20 Germinates faster at higher temperatures. Thymus serpyllum 9 Thyme, lemon 55 15–30 Needs light for germination. Thymus citriodorus 8 balm, bergamot 68–86 7 Transplant at four-true-leaf stage. Perennial didyma in Southcentral, Southeast and southern coastal areas and annual in Interior. 8 Calendula 70 5–10 Will self sow in the garden if not deadhead- ed. 8 70–72 10–14 Cuminum cyminum 8 Lemon balm 70 14 Needs light for germination. officinalis 8 Lovage 60–70 4–18 Can be directly sown in fall or spring in mild- Levisticum officinalis er parts of the state. Grow as transplants in central and northern areas. Will self sow on warm sites. 8 Love–in–a–mist 65–70 7–14 Sow heavily directly into cell packs; seeds will mature in the garden if from transplants. 8 Mitsuba 77 3–5 japonica 8 Mountain mint 70 7–14 Pycnanthemum pilosum 8 Oregano 70 8–14 Originum vulgare 8 , curled & flat leaf 70–75 14–21 Soak seeds in water 24 hours before crispum sowing; germination may take up to 3 weeks for some types. 8 Pennyroyal 70 12–16 8 Sage 60–70 14–21 officinalis 8 Savory, summer 60–70 10–15 Needs light for germination. hortensis 8 Savory, winter 60–70 10–15 Needs light for germination. Satureja 8 Sweet 70 8–15 majorana 7 burnet 70 8–10 Sanguisorba minor 7 70–75 8–10 Will self sow in the garden.

cultivating herbs / 5 6 Anise 60–70 10–14 anisum 6 Borage 70 7–10 Can be directly sown in fall or spring; will officinalis self sow in the garden. May become weedy in milder areas of the state. Cover seeds very lightly if at all. 6 Chervil 60–70 7–14 Can be directly sown and will reseed in the cerefolium garden. 6 Dandelion 40–80 4–10 Directly sow, fall or spring. Will self sow ev- officinale erywhere. Grow special cultivars from seed. 6 Dill 60–70 21–25 Needs light for germination; sow succes- Anethum graveolens sively every 2 weeks if you want the leaves and seeds; will self sow in greenhouses and gardens in milder parts of the state. 6 70 10–14 Will self sow if allowed to go to seed. Sow sativum directly in ground or pots in successive plantings every 2 weeks. 6 Lambsquarters 70–80 7–10 Directly sow, fall or spring; will self sow in album the garden. 6 Strawberry blite 70–80 10–14 Directly sow in fall or spring; will self sow in Chenopodium capitatum the garden. 6 Marigold, signet 70–75 5–7 Tagetes signata 6 65 7–12 majus 6 Safflower 68–72 5–14 Carthamnus tinctorius 6 65–71 7–11 Will self sow in milder areas and in green- scutatus houses/high tunnels. 5 Chamomile, German 55–60 Sow in garden or directly into cell packs; Matricaria chamomilla very fine seeds, do not cover. Will self sow prolifically in the garden. 5 Mizuna 70–75 8–10 Brassica rapa 4 Arugula 60–70 5–6 Also direct sow in successive plantings. Eruca sativa

* The sowing time will vary with the germination environ- *** Some seeds are dormant and require special warm ment, especially temperature. The weeks listed give and/or cold temperatures to remove seed germination the approximate time needed to establish a well-rooted inhibitors. In warm stratification, sow seeds as for seedling. Choose a planting date and count backwards normal germination. Keep moist; never allow the seeds on the calendar to establish sowing dates. to dry out. During this time, seed embryos mature but ** The temperature listed is the seeding mix temperature, germination may not occur. This warm treatment is not the air temperature. Many growers sow seeds often followed by cold stratification. Sow seeds as for on a heating mat at the temperature listed to save normal germination; enclose pot or flat in a plastic bag energy costs for heating an entire room. Germination and place in a refrigerator (not freezer) at approx. 40°F temperatures are often warmer than temperatures for up to 90 days. Do not allow seeds or mix to dry out. required for further seedling growth. Return to warm room to complete germination.

6 / cultivating herbs vegetative propagation A bit of trial and error is required to get the right level of light and moisture. stem cuttings Most herbs will begin rooting in 2 to 3 Stem cuttings are the most common weeks. Bay laurels may take up to 1 year. method of propagating herbs throughout Test for rooting by gently tugging on the the year. A simple propagating box is a cuttings. If there is any resistance, dig clear plastic shoebox or storage container beneath the cuttings with your fingers until with a clear lid that is 6 inches or taller in the cutting is cradled in your hand, then lift height. Many kinds and sizes of containers the entire cutting out of the box to avoid are available, but make sure they have see- ripping off the roots. If there are only 1 or through clear (or pale pink or blue) sides 2 roots, replace the cutting in the box. If and lids. An alternative is a flat with a clear there are so many roots that the vermiculite dome lid, but cuttings dry out faster in flats cannot be shaken off, the cutting is ready to than in boxes. Fill the box or flat with 2 transplant. Pot the rooted cuttings in a pot- to 3 inches of moistened vermiculite (no ting mix suitable for houseplants. Harden standing water). them off before taking outdoors. Pinch or cut off new tip growth when it is The vermiculite is reusable until it becomes about 3 to 5 inches in length. If flowers are moldy or green with . It can then be present, remove all flowers and buds recycled by mixing it into a houseplant from the cutting. For most herbs, treatment potting mix or placing it in a compost pile with a rooting powder is not necessary, or directly into the garden. To reuse plastic but it can make rooting faster and more boxes, clean, sterilize by soaking for 30 uniform. Herbs that benefit from a rooting minutes in a 10 percent bleach, rinse and hormone treatment include herbs with air dry. woody stems such as bay laurel, rosemary and scented geraniums. Remove any leaves A handful of some herbs will root well from the bottom 1½ inches of stem, treat when stem cuttings are placed in a cup of with rooting powder if necessary, then stick water. They include , some cultivars of cuttings into the vermiculite, angling the lavender, lemon verbena, mints, pineapple cuttings sideways, if necessary, to fit in the sage, rosemary and most scented gerani- box. ums. Remove the leaves from the portion of the stem that will be submerged, and keep Close the lid and set the box in indirect the cup full of water until ample roots ap- sunlight or beneath fluorescent shop lights. pear in 2 or more weeks. Plants with woody Avoid hot, south-facing windowsills. Check stems, such as scented geraniums and the box daily. If a lot of condensation lavender, take much longer to root than the forms on the lid, open it a bit for a couple herbaceous basil and mints. Put the cup of hours to allow the excess moisture to on a warm windowsill or beneath lights. evaporate. Close the lid again and continue Pot the rooted cuttings in sterile potting to watch daily. If gray mold forms on the mix and keep moist. Top growth will begin cuttings, there is too much moisture. Open when new roots have become established in the lid again for an hour or 2, then close it. the solid medium.

cultivating herbs / 7 root cuttings layering Plants that regenerate from root cuttings Layering is a process of regenerating roots include those with thin, fibrous roots as on a piece of stem while it is still attached well as those with thick storage roots. They to the mother plant. Many plants layer should not be confused with plants that naturally, producing roots whenever a stem grow from rhizomes, which are under- bends to the soil or is naturally buried by ground horizontal stems that look like leaves or soil. To layer in the garden, select roots. Select root pieces that are at least 4 stems at the lower and outer edge of the inches in length, and plant them in flats plant. Remove leaves from a 3- to 4-inch with a 2- to 3-inch layer of potting mix section of the stem that will eventually be used for houseplants (one that does not buried in the soil. Secure the stem to the contain large amounts of ). Lay the soil with a stick, a tent peg or a piece of root pieces horizontally, then cover them bent wire or whatever will hold the stem with at least 2 inches of potting mix. Water in contact with the soil. Cover with a small the flats and keep them slightly moist at amount of soil mounded over the secured room temperature (65° to 70°F). As with stem. The leafy stem tip should be sticking seedlings, bottom heat from a heating mat out of the soil. Keep the soils moist. When often speeds up production. Lights plants are well rooted beneath the mound, are not required until emerge. cut off the newly rooted plants and pot in When shoots emerge, suspend a bank of a container of potting soil or move directly fluorescent lights 6 inches above the flats. to another part of the garden. This process Root cuttings must regenerate new shoots can take 4 weeks or all season in order to and new roots, so propagation often takes get sufficient roots for the plant to survive. longer than it does for stem cuttings. Just In difficult-to-root species, the piece of because shoots form does not mean roots the stem that is buried can be wounded by have formed, and without new roots, the scraping off some of the bark. This wound cutting often dies. Look for new roots after can be dusted with rooting powder to has- shoots have formed. If the cutting has big ten rooting. clumps of roots (may only be at one end of the cutting), it is ready to transplant. Layering is also possible in containerized plants. Choose a pot that is the same height Once the shoots are 4 to 6 inches tall and as the pot containing the herb or one that new roots are present, the shoots and root can be elevated so the rims of the pots pieces can be removed from the propagat- are nearly level. Fill the new pot with a ing flat and transplanted into larger con- moistened potting mix, one recommended tainers. The connection between these new for houseplants, that does not have large shoots and the old root is very delicate. chunks of bark. Repeat the same meth- Take special care when moving the cuttings od of layering outlined above. The main to avoid breaking off the shoots. Like seed- difference in container layering is moisture. lings, these plants need to be hardened off The layer in a pot must not be allowed for 1 week before planting outdoors. to dry out. The pot can be partly covered with plastic, but the leafy shoot tip should remain exposed. Indoor layering is faster

8 / cultivating herbs with a good light source, either natural Geranium, mint Pelargonium tomentosum sunlight or the same fluorescent shop lights Lavender Lavandula spp. Lemon balm Melissa officinalis used for seed starting. Separate the layered Oregano Origanum vulgare plant from the mother plant when roots are Pennyroyal Mentha pulegium ample as shown by resistance to tugging Peppermint Mentha piperita when you try to pull up the new plant. Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Sage division, separation of offsets Sage, pineapple Salvia elegans Savory, summer Satureja hortensis Many plants that spread naturally by rhi- Savory, winter Satureja montana zomes (underground stems), such as mints Spearmint Mentha spicata or those forming large crowns, such as Sweet mace (Mexican French tarragon, may be divided any time mint marigold) Sweet marjoram Oreganum majorana during the nonflowering season. Avoid the Sweet woodruff Asperula odorata heat of . If the plants are active- Thyme, common Thymus vulgaris ly growing, cut back the foliage by at least Thyme, lemon Thymus citriodorus one-half to minimize moisture loss and Verbena, lemon Aloysia tryphylla encourage new growth. Dig up the clump Vietnamese coriander Polygonum odoratum ( odorata) of roots and cut through the entire crown Root cuttings with a sharp blade, shovel or saw. Each Geranium Pelargonium spp. division should include enough roots and Armoracea rusticana shoots for continued growth. Discard any dead centers or old, rotten roots. Replant so Layering the roots are the same levels in the soil as Lavender Oregano Origanum vulgare they were before they were dug up. Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Sage Salvia officinalis Plants such as chives produce naturally Sweet mace (Mexican forming lateral shoots that allow the plant mint marigold) Tagetes lucida to spread. These shoots are easily separat- Thyme, creeping Thymus serpyllum ed from the mother plant by pulling them Thyme, English Thymus vulgaris apart. Cutting with a shovel or saw is usual- Verbena, lemon Aloysia triphylla ly not necessary. Division, Separation Apple mint Mentha rotundifolia Bee balm Monarda didyma Table 2. Herbs that can be propagated Chives Allium schoenoprasum by stem cuttings, root cuttings, Fennel Foeniculum vulgare layering and division French tarragon dracunculus Garlic Allium sativum Stem Cuttings Garlic, elephant Apple mint Mentha rotundifolia Garlic, German, Basil basilicum flat-leaf onion Allium senescens Bay laurel (slow to Lemon balm Melissa officinalis root) Lemongrass Cymbopogon flexuosus Bee balm Monarda didyma Lovage Levisticum officinale French tarragon Artemisia dracunculus Oregano Origanum vulgare Geranium, lemon-scented Parsley Petroselenium crispum Geranium, -scented Peppermint Mentha piperita

cultivating herbs / 9 Pennyroyal Mentha pulegium Consider clustering perennial herbs such Geranium, lemon-scented Pelargonium crispum as French tarragon and lovage to avoid Geranium, rose-scented Pelargonium graveolens Geranium, mint Pelargonium tomentosum damage from frequent digging and trans- Peppermint Mentha piperita planting of annuals. Learn which herbs Salad burnet Sanguisorba minor self sow easily in your area and leave room Savory, winter Satureja montana for some seedlings to sprout. These can be Sorrel Rumex acetosa transplanted to expand your herb garden Spearmint Mentha spicata Sweet woodruff Asperula odorata or shared with other gardeners. Plant herbs Thyme, common Thymus vulgaris after they have been hardened off and after Thyme, lemon Thymus citriodorus the last frost date. Water well for at least 2 Vietnamese coriander, rau ram Polygonum odoratum weeks to establish the root system. () Summer maintenance in herb gardens involves weeding, flower removal and growing herbs in the pruning. Weeds, especially chickweed, can garden overtake herb beds in a very short period of time. However, chickweed, dandelions and Herbs grow best in warm, sunny locations lambsquarters are tasty springtime with well-drained soils and a pH of 6 to 6.5. for , so the “weedlings” can be eaten Although some herbs (horseradish, sweet rather than thrown out. All weeding should woodruff) can tolerate wet soils, most be done by hand rather than with chemical will rot or are prone to winterkill in soggy sprays where possible. Only use chemicals soils. If garden soils are poorly drained, that are recommended on the label for consider growing herbs in raised beds or culinary herbs. containers. Herbs are often grown in vege- table and flower gardens, and some of the Once herbs become established, many low-growing perennial herbs work well in bloom almost immediately. Plants such rock gardens. Herbs that spread, especially as mint, and basil have the mints, need to be isolated from other edible flowers, but once flowering begins, parts of the garden or they can be quite leaf growth diminishes. To maintain a invasive where they are hardy. A trash can season-long abundance of leaves, pinch off or washtub with the bottom cut out, block the flowers every week (and add them to a or rock walls, recycled greenhouse panels salad) or prune back the stems to encour- and large clay pots buried in the garden all age side branching. Most herbs will provide make effective barriers. A barrier at least 12 a steady supply of fresh leaves and stems all inches deep is needed to keep most spread- season long without additional care. ing herbs from taking over. Soils should be well cultivated to at least a depth of 8 inch- es and amended with compost, seaweed or other types of fertilizer. Heavy, clayey or sandy soils need significant amendment with compost or other organic matter for best herb growth. Follow recommendations based on soil test results.

10 / cultivating herbs herbs in containers, cold frames, time. It is great for one-season plants but raised beds and greenhouses is not the best for perennials. Both perlite and vermiculite are sold in several size Herbs are perfect for all kinds of contain- grades. Choose products that are not finely ers, cold frames and greenhouse culture crushed; use ones that are approximately ⅛ because most people grow only a few plants to ¼ inch in diameter. of any one kind; they can be interplanted with other main crops such as tomatoes Commercially available potting mixes are and ; and the extra warmth of expensive, especially for large greenhouse the structure promotes abundant growth. A benches, but work well for containers. mixed bowl of herbs is a great centerpiece Many products are on the market, and for a summer picnic table. Containers of many do not contain any soil. rosemary, lavender, Vietnamese corian- Avoid commercial mixes composed of der, bay laurel, lemon verbena, pineapple large chunks of uncomposted wood chips sage and lemongrass can decorate a sunny and bark. For perennials such as bay laurel, porch or greenhouse in summer and be a mixture of a commercial soilless peat-lite moved indoors in winter. mix and a soil-based mix provide a better combination of for long-term Container and raised bed herb gardens growth. need soils that are weed-free, have great drainage and are capable of holding up Because garden soils vary from one site to under repeated irrigation. Garden soils and another, homemade potting mixes need to topsoil alone are not good potting mixes for be analyzed to identify available containers and greenhouses. They compact levels and ensure a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. The over time and provide a poor rooting envi- most common amendment to raise pH lev- ronment. Additionally, they are very heavy, els in potting mixes is dolomitic lime. Fer- making it difficult to move containers. tilizers may vary depending on the results of the soil analysis, but normally a complete If liberally amended with compost and organic or chemical houseplant fertilizer something to promote fast drainage (one- is adequate for nearly all herbs. Consider third each by volume), garden soils can be amending container and greenhouse bench designed to suit container and greenhouse mixes with biodegradable, water-absorbing beds. One of the most common, light- crystals. They look like giant crystals weight amendments is perlite, which is a and absorb and hold huge amounts sterile, crushed rock product commonly of water, then slowly release it to used in soilless peat-lite mixes. plant roots. They do not change It provides excellent drainage the quantity of water needed in all sizes of containers by container plants, but and significantly reduces they change how often the weight of the soils. watering needs to occur. Vermiculite, another Gardeners can go on a crushed rock product, is weekend hiking trip with- also useful for container out losing their container mixes, but it collapses over gardens to drought.

cultivating herbs / 11 indoor herbs commercial mixes indoors because they normally have been heat-treated to kill Growing herbs in indoor gardens can be pests. Homemade mixes need to be pas- challenging in Alaska because of low light teurized (see “seed propagation”). levels and, in some locations, low indoor humidity. Stem cuttings of herbs such as Indoor herbs need high light for best thyme, lavender, scented geraniums and growth. Follow the directions for fluores- rosemary from outdoor-grown plants cent shop lights for seed starting, or pro- (Table 2) can be rooted in late summer, vide the highest affordable level of indoor then potted for a winter garden or to hold spotlights to keep herbs from dying over for the next season. Herbs such as chives, winter. Because most herbs do not need to mints and Vietnamese coriander can be produce flowers, they do not need expen- divided in late summer and a portion of sive grow lights. Most herbs need a con- the plant potted for indoor use. Many of sistent moisture supply throughout winter. the seed-propagated herbs, such as dill, Rosemary, in particular, will die quickly fennel and mustard, can be grown thickly with the slightest amount of drying. Young as seedlings and harvested when they are 6 seedlings need a full-strength fertilizer (see to 8 inches tall. “seed propagation”) for optimum growth, whereas transplanted herbs in cool envi- Many hardy perennial herbs become ronments grow well with a half-strength dormant at the end of the season and need houseplant fertilizer. a period of chilling temperatures (32° to 50°F) to begin active growth. These herbs hydroponic herbs should be potted from the garden and held outdoors or in a cold garage at above-freez- Recently, there has been a resurgence of ing temperatures for at least 2 months, interest in growing plants hydroponically, then brought indoors. They also grow and many commercial kits have become best at cool temperatures between 50° and available for tabletop gardens, container 65°F. Tender herbs such as lemongrass and gardens and greenhouse benches with cannot tolerate frost, and containers water or fog as the growing medium. Many need to be brought indoors before cold herbs lend themselves easily to hydroponic weather commences. They, along with culture (Table 3). Their growth is fast, they direct-seeded herbs, grow best at indoor easily fit into small spaces and they adapt temperatures of 65° to 68°F. Herbs brought well to water culture. Many hydroponic from the garden need to be examined systems are available, from nutrient film carefully for spider mites, and other technique to aeroponic and ebb and flow garden pests. A few insects can explode systems. Be sure to check the Internet for easily to epidemic proportions indoors and specific solutions for each commercial spread to other houseplants. source. Many herbs grow so easily that the extra expenses involved in are Potting mixes recommended for container not warranted. However, when good pot- herbs work well for indoor herbs, although ting soil is not available and when garden- the mix should be pasteurized to kill ers are interested in experimenting, herbs diseases and weed seeds. Most people use provide one of the easiest group of plants to

12 / cultivating herbs grow hydroponically. These systems require foliage does not get wet. Parsley and basil a little knowledge of chemistry, strict atten- are susceptible to root rots that can be min- tion to sanitation and regular monitoring imized by using sterile potting mixes. for best results. All herbs grown as seedlings are susceptible to damping off, which occurs when seed- Table 3. Herbs recommended for lings become watery and pinched right at hydroponic culture the soil surface, and eventually die. Damp- Arugula Basil Chervil ing off can be minimized by using sterile Chives Cilantro Dill flats and seeding/potting mix, allowing the French tarragon Lemon balm Marjoram medium to surface dry between watering, Mints Oregano Parsley not crowding the seedlings and removing Rosemary Sage Sorrel affected plants immediately to avoid spread. Thyme Slugs can decimate the foliage of many garden herbs. Although raised beds and pests containers do not stop slugs, the containers and beds can be situated to reduce damage. Many Alaska herb gardens are relatively Diatomaceous earth spread around plants pest-free, but outbreaks can be destructive; will deter slugs. There are also chemical aphids, especially, and hungry voles can and organic sprays for these pests. Check decimate a bed of parsley if their popula- with your local Cooperative Extension Ser- tions are high. Aphids and spider mites in vice agent for current recommendations. greenhouses and container gardens can be a significant problem. Most gardeners garden notes remove them by hand, wash them off with sprays of water or use horticultural soap the sprays. In mostly hot, dry gardens, leafhop- Some of the most commonly grown herbs pers can cause damage to leaves. Whiteflies are members of the amaryllis family (Am- can congregate on herbs grown in green- aryllidaceae ) and include plants with pun- houses and indoors. Most whiteflies are gent and flavorful leaves, stems and . imported on plants grown by mail order Chives are nearly ubiquitous in Alaska businesses. Purchase plants from a reputa- herb gardens and can be grown in garden ble source and place yellow sticky cards in beds, greenhouses, containers and indoor pots or adjacent to the plants to trap flying gardens. Similar hardy alliums include adults. garlic chives, Welsh onions, German garlic and true garlic. Most have edible ornamen- Some herbs are susceptible to damage tal flowers and attract insect . by gray mold and powdery mildew, both Except for the , they will self sow in diseases of foliage that may spread rapidly, gardens to the point of being a nuisance. especially where there is high humidity and They can be trimmed back, divided and condensation on the leaves. Damage can be brought indoors for winter growth. minimized by providing good air circula- tion around plants, allowing the foliage to Chives also grow wild in parts of Alaska, dry completely and watering from below so and the native plants adapt well to gardens.

cultivating herbs / 13 Welsh onions produce huge, seeds, and the flowers/seeds are clustered hollow, edible green stems in distinct, flat-topped heads called um- with thickened bases similar to bels. Dill is a tender annual growing from . They have a very pungent 2 feet to more than 6 feet tall, depending and sharp flavor. They produce on the and location. It is grown in abundant seeds that are often gardens for its foliage and seeds. Because thickly sown and harvested as of its height, it needs protection from wind very young sprouts and eaten or rain by staking; the top-heavy stalks are like green onions. The German easily blown over and broken. garlic has leaves that look like the strap-shaped daffodil and An herb that is similar in appearance and have a wonderful mild flavor. use to dill is fennel, which has two distinct They are most often grown as growth habits. Choose sweet fennel for ornamentals, and they usually harvesting leaves, stems and seeds. Choose bloom so late outdoors that Florence fennel for plants that have thick- seed does not mature. These alliums grow ened leaf bases, often mistakenly called well in herb gardens and mixed perennial bulbs. Sweet fennel is more easily grown in flower gardens and scattered at the edges of Alaska gardens. Florence fennel requires rhubarb leaves. lots of heat and must be grown in a green- house or high tunnel. Several types of garlic (softneck, elephant and hardneck) can be grown in Alaska Many herbs such as cilantro, dill, gardens, but only one has a chance in the chervil and fennel grow well indoors be- Interior (softneck). In all areas, garlic must neath lights; the foliage is harvested when be heavily mulched in winter to avoid the seedlings are 6 to 8 inches tall. For fresh injury from freezing and frost heaving herbs all year long, repeated, thick sowings (where soils freeze and thaw throughout both indoors and out are necessary. For the winter). Individual are planted seed production, start dill, chervil, cara- in fall, regenerate new offsets in spring and way and coriander indoors and transplant are harvested in late summer of the second into the garden to allow enough time for year. Where soils are too cold, they can be the seeds to mature. In cool, wet areas, grown in greenhouses and high tunnels these herbs are often grown in greenhous- with winter protection. They can also be es or tunnels to mature seed. All attract grown as annuals in containers, where the insect pollinators young garlic-flavored shoots can be har- when in bloom. vested like chives. These herbs will self sow in the herbs with garden if mature Several herbs grown in Alaska belong to seeds are not the family, (). They include harvested. dill, chervil, sweet cicely, coriander/cilan- tro, fennel, lovage, parsley and anise. They are bushy plants with edible foliage and/or

14 / cultivating herbs Parsley is commonly grown for its frilly asian, indian and tropical herbs dark green leaves. Flat-leaf Italian parsley Commercial seed and plant sources are has a more robust flavor than curly parsley beginning to offer a wide variety of exotic and is preferred for cooking. Curly-leaf herbs, some of which can be adapted to types are generally used as garnishes. Both Alaska gardens. Lemongrass, Vietnamese can be dug, divided and brought indoors coriander and ginger add special for fresh winter herbs. to , but they require a lot of heat. The most important perennial umbel herb Lemongrass and ginger must be grown in a is lovage, which looks similar to celery and greenhouse or high tunnel or in a container provides an abundance of leaves and stems sitting on a hot, sunny porch. Vietnamese nearly all season long. It is hardy even in coriander and (perilla) grow abun- the Interior as long as it gets ample snow dantly in warm, sunny gardens as well as cover. Plants grow to 3 feet in most in Inte- in containers and greenhouses. All of these rior gardens but can easily grow to 6 feet or herbs can be overwintered indoors as long more (support required) in Southcentral, as there is plenty of light, high tempera- Southeast and southern coastal areas. tures (>65°F) and lots of humidity. The Indian herbs ajwain and ajmud do not ma- aromatic herbs ture seeds except in the hottest sites. They Nearly all herbs are best grown in greenhouses and high have a distinctive tunnels for added heat. aroma that may or edible flowers may not survive processing into There are many flowers that provide color the dried, salted, and flavor to a variety of culinary delights. oil-infused or Among the favorites are anise hyssop, frozen herbs we use calendula, chives, chamomile, nasturtiums, in cooking. Most famous are violas, pansies, borage and bee balm. All are the mints, garlic, nearly all of the umbel easily interplanted in flower and herbs and lavender, but also popular are gardens. Many will self sow in garden soils mint geranium and pineapple (Table 1); borage can become a nuisance if sage, which are used to infuse pastry with the flowers are not removed. Beware that intoxicating scents. The aromas are mostly many garden flowers are not edible and can from essential oils that accumulate in hairs be poisonous. Check with reputable sources and special cells on the surface of leaves. or local experts before experimenting. It is worth experimenting with individual the mint family () cultivars of aromatic herbs because all will differ in the quality and intensity of these The name “basil” is such a singular word for essential oils. Also, herbs grown in gardens an incredible diversity of leafy annuals; for may smell different or less intense than some gardeners, it is the only herb worth those grown in greenhouses; air tempera- growing. Garden catalogs list a dizzying ture can influence the quantity of essential assortment of basils, including some with oils produced. giant leaves and others that grow as globes with leaves no bigger than a pea. Flavors

cultivating herbs / 15 range from sweet to lemony and spicy. In mustard family () appearance, basil can be ruffled or smooth, Several members of the mustard family with purple or green leaves and edible flow- are grown in herb gardens, often for seed ers. Basil is highly recommended for Alas- but also for young, green leaves that give ka’s gardens, but the key to growing success sharp, spicy, tangy flavors to salads. One is heat. Even in the warm Interior, the member, horseradish, produces thickened added heat of a greenhouse, row covers or roots that don’t usually measure up to the raised beds is recommended. Given enough giant roots harvested at lower latitudes but heat, plants grow and branch rapidly, often nevertheless have a pungent aroma and developing flower buds at a very young age. strong flavor. Tilling in gardens does not They require frequent pruning and pinch- destroy horseradish. Even tiny ing to keep leaf production at its peak. slivers of roots will regenerate Like basil, mints have a wide variety of into a new plant. Some flavors and aromas. Spearmint and pepper- of the mustards will mint are the most popular, but commercial set seed if allowed to sources also sell flavors such as pineap- mature and can become ple, ginger, chocolate and even banana. weedy in the garden. Most The traditional species are winter-hardy are harvested as very in Southcentral, Southeast and southern young leaves and never coastal areas, but they are marginal, at best, reach seed stage. in the Interior. The “flavored” mints are not as hardy as the standards. Where they over- winter, they can become quite a nuisance in gardens because of their rampant spreading habit. They are best kept separated by deep edging or in raised beds or containers to keep them in check. In colder locations, they are best grown in containers and brought indoors for winter. Indoor tem- peratures should be cool (40° to 60°F).

Four other members of the mint family — sweet marjoram, sage, thyme and oregano — are some of easiest herbs to grow, but like basil, they tend to flower early and require repeated harvests all season long. All may overwinter in protected locations in Southcentral, Southeast and southern coastal gardens, but they are grown as annuals in the Interior. Thyme might over- winter in the Interior, but only on protect- ed, heavily mulched sites. Even then, it is considered a short-lived perennial at best.

16 / cultivating herbs harvesting herbs

The goal of preserving herbs is to preserve With perennial plants, no more than one- the essential oils, which give them their third should be taken. With some plants, characteristic flavor and aroma. such as rosemary, only the growing tips can be harvested. Herbs can be stored fresh, frozen or dried or processed into special products. To maintain the vigor of your plants, it is vital to have either good sharp shears or a when to harvest knife when harvesting. Pulling at the plants with the fingers damages the root systems; The ideal time of season to harvest most this will become evident the following sea- herbs is when the flower buds are forming, son with poor growth patterns. If you plan just before they open. The best time of day to harvest roots, cut them into small por- is in the morning when the dew has dried tions and dry using a dehydrator to insure off the leaves and there is no moisture proper dehydration before storage. clinging to the plant. The volatile oils will be at their best this time of day, concentrat- ed in the leaves. During the day, or when which part of the plant temperatures start to go up, the plants are to harvest growing and transpiring and their oils and Some plants are prized for only one part— moisture are moving through the plant. their seeds, flowers or leaves. Some plants If you want strong flavor and aroma, har- are used for all three. vest herbs first thing in the morning before Harvest the leaf: Chervil, basil, lemon they start actively growing for the day. balm, cilantro, lemon verbena, oregano, To ensure that the plant material is clean, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, marjoram, spray it down the evening before you plan tarragon and thyme to harvest, gently washing away any dirt Harvest the root: Horseradish, ginger, clinging to the leaves. some parsleys how much to harvest Harvest the seeds: Dill, anise, coriander It depends on the plant. harvest methods As much as 50 percent of an There are two kinds of plants that require can be harvested by snipping the stem at different methods of harvesting. least 4 inches up from the ground. This will cause the plant to develop new branches Plants that grow from a single stem with and it will be ready to harvest again before branches, such as thyme, tarragon, basil, the season is finished. marjoram and savories, should be har-

harvesting herbs / 17 vested by cutting sprigs from harvest for use as fresh the ends of stems. This is called pinching. It herbs stimulates growth, Use immediately any time before the plant causing the plant blooms. In the case of some herbs, sooner Cut Cut to become bushier is better; for example, herbs such as borage, and fuller. Always burnet, nasturtium and dill can be used as cut pieces of stems tender salad greens. Cut rather than just Cut stripping off foliage, Pick only healthy green leaves, not yel- leaving a denuded stem. lowed or dead ones.

Watch for flower buds form- Don’t injure the plant’s growth by pulling ing; if pinched off before they off too many leaves from one stem or plant, bloom, leaves will stay tender particularly young ones. and edible instead of tough as flowers and seeds form. harvest for grooming Plants that grow in a clump, such Remove damaged, yellowed leaves and as sorrel, chives, parsley and leaves with insect damage; don’t use these. lovage, should be harvested by Pinch or snip to give the plant a pleasing cutting whole spears from outside shape, particularly if used as a border plant of the clump, just above ground (basils, sorrel). level, instead of giving the plant a “haircut,” which reduces the plant Once flowers develop, flavor and produc- to unsightly yellow stubble and pre- tion are affected (marjoram, basil, sorrel, vents the plant from manufacturing savory, thyme, oregano). supply to be stored in roots. Cut some points to keep in mind: Herbs might be harvested at any • Snip throughout the season. For the time for any number of best flavor, don’t wait until the plants reasons: move toward old age. • for use as fresh herbs — • When growing a plant for its leaves, can be picked at any time make sure to pinch off flower buds to • for plant maintenance and grooming lengthen its useful season. to keep plants looking neat and to get • Don’t be stingy when harvesting. Many maximum production and flavor herbs can be pruned to within 4 inches • for preserving for use when fresh herbs of the ground or to within the last few are no longer available inches of leaves and still bounce back • for end-of-season final stripping and to produce a bounty. for caring for perennials that will over- • Don’t rinse your herbs until you are winter in Alaska ready to use them, except parsley,

18 / harvesting herbs which loves a cool bath right away. Washing removes some oils and vi- tamins. If you don’t use repellents or fertilizer sprays, rinsing may not even be necessary. • Let seeds ripen on the plants for full flavor. Look for ready-to-burst seed- pods or brown seeds. If you are afraid you will miss them, tuck a paper bag around the ripening seeds near their prime ripening time and tie it to the stem. When the seeds rattle within the bag, cut the stem and shake your harvest into the bag. • Be patient when harvesting roots. Wait until the plants are at least 2 years old, then trim small pieces off the roots as you need them. Air dry for fresh use. At the end of the season, dig the roots carefully and air dry. Then peel, chop and freeze for later use. • Harvest flowers when they are dry. Be sure to shake blooms gently to get rid of any bugs or soil. • Harvest perennials judiciously their first year to help them develop some vigor.

harvesting herbs / 19 20 / harvesting herbs storing fresh herbs

If you are buying fresh herbs or taking Large-leaved herbs such as basil, lovage and them from your garden, look for the best sage can be rolled into “cigars” and frozen. quality that you can find. They should be These can then be used as whole leaves in vibrant, crisp and blemish-free. Stem ends recipes. Roll the first leaf in a tight roll and should look freshly cut, not dried out, wilt- layer other leaves on top, wrapping them ed or discolored. tightly around the center leaf. Another method is to line overlapping leaves on If purchasing herbs, remove elastic bands plastic wrap. Roll and repeat until all leaves or twist ties or remove herbs from the box. are used. Place in a freezer bag or foil and Pull off yellowed leaves and pat dry. Don’t label with the name and date of freezing. wash or cut until ready to use. Put them Many cigars can be placed in the same bag. back into the box, or place in a perforated To use, simply chop off the amount needed plastic vegetable bag. from the end of the cigar and return the Store in the coldest, moistest part of the rest to the freezer bag. refrigerator. Herbs suitable for refrigerator Herbs can also be placed in water or oil and storage are parsley, oregano, rosemary, frozen. Take 2 cups of herbs and place in ½ savory and thyme. Keep separate from cup of water or and whirl in a blender fresh , especially apples, as they emit or food processor until well combined. The ethylene gas, which shortens the useful life mixture can be transferred to a freezer bag of the herb. or frozen in ice cube trays. Keep some in a Some herbs (basil, chervil and coriander) small bag for ease of use. should be kept at room temperature. Place Herbs retain flavor and aroma better when in a glass of water like a bouquet and cover stored in oil. Combine 2 cups herb leaves loosely with a paper bag. with ½ cup oil and whirl gently in a food processor or blender. Place in zipper-type freezing bags for long-term storage in the freezer. Most herbs can be frozen successfully. Don’t reduce the measurement of oil — it Freezing is the best method to preserve ba- allows for chopping or blending with a sil, chervil and cilantro. Drying diminishes minimum of bruising. The oil also acts as a the flavor of these herbs. barrier against oxidation and dehydration in the freezer and maintains the integrity Freezing in a freezer bag or foil is the best of the herb's essential oils longer for better method for small-leaved herbs. Strip leaves flavor. and place in the bag or foil. If you chop leaves before packaging, they will be ready to use, but they will lose some of the aro- matic oils that give them their flavor.

storing herbs / 21 drying All leaves should be dried whole and not crumbled until you are ready to use them. Drying is a simple method of preserving Store in airtight glass or metal containers herbs. Herbs can be dried naturally or or plastic bags. Do not store in paper or in the dehydrator, oven or microwave. It cardboard because herbs can easily reab- is best to dry herbs away from light and sorb moisture and mold. Check for mois- using a warm, even temperature. If leaves ture during the first week. Be sure to label are clean, it isn’t necessary to wash them containers with the type of herb and date of before drying. Washing causes degradation processing. of the herbs and makes them slower to dry. Keep leaves as whole as possible to preserve For best quality, do not store herbs near aromatic oils. radiators, ovens or windows.

Tying in a bunch is a traditional method Dried herbs retain their flavor for 18 of drying. Herbs that are sturdy and dry months to 2 years, depending on the herb. quickly are most appropriate for this meth- herbs to determine their potency od; these include catnip, mints, marjoram, before using. oregano, rosemary, sage and savory. Bun- dles of drying herbs need good air circula- Dehydrator drying is a fast and easy way tion. Use a string or rubber band to gather to dry herbs because temperature and air bunches of herbs and suspend them in an circulation can be controlled. Preheat the out-of-the-way place where they won’t be dehydrator to 100° to 120°F. Place herbs in bothered. If you are concerned about losing a single layer on dehydrator trays and dry leaves or dust gathering on them, suspend from 1 to 4 hours depending on the thick- the bunch inside a paper bag punched full ness of leaves. Check closely for dryness. of holes or a pillowcase to catch leaves that Dry herbs have crumbly leaves, and stems fall off. You can also simply place cut stems break when bent. Check your dehydrator in a labeled paper bag. When the herbs are instructions for specific recommendations. dry, strip whole leaves and store in glass or Oven drying is another way to preserve plastic jars or plastic bags. herbs, particularly mint, sage and . Tender-leaved herbs can be dried on screens Remove the best leaves from the stems. Lay or a clean surface. Herbs appropriate for the leaves on a paper towel, without allowing this method include basil, chamomile, chive leaves to touch. Cover with another towel flowers and leaves, dill, oregano, parsley, and layer of leaves. Up to 5 layers of leaves rosemary and thyme. To dry these herbs on can be dried at one time using this method. screens or trays, pull leaves from the stalk or Dry in a very cool oven (100° to 130°F). stems after harvesting. These herbs require Leaves dry flat and retain good color. more careful handling since they can turn Microwave drying is a fast way to dry yellow or brown unless quickly dried. Cut small amounts of herbs. Prepare leaves stems into small pieces for quicker drying as instructed for oven drying. Microwave but leave flowers whole. Lay on drying herbs in 15-second increments until leaves screens, cookie sheets or other clean surfac- are crumbly. Check your microwave oven es. Stir daily to ensure even drying. instructions for specific recommendations.

22 / storing herbs How do you know leaves are dry enough? Rule of thumb When leaves are crispy dry and crumble easily between fingers, they are ready to be When using dried herbs instead of fresh, packaged and stored. Dried leaves may be use one-fourth to one-third as much. left whole and crumbled as used or coarsely 1 teaspoon dried = 3 to 4 teaspoons fresh crumbled before storage. To store, place herbs in airtight containers other methods for and store in a cool, dry, dark area to protect color and fragrance. preserving herbs

Best preservation methods for herbs Anise hyssop dry Pesto, an uncooked that includes Arugula best fresh fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts and oil, must Basil freeze be refrigerated or frozen. There are no di- Borage dry rections for canning pesto. Do not store in Calendula dry the refrigerator longer than 4 days. Freeze Chervil freeze Chives freeze for longer storage. Cilantro freeze Basic Basil Pesto Dill freeze, dry Fennel freeze, dry 2 cups packed fresh basil leaves Lemon balm dry 2 cloves garlic Lemon verbena dry ½ cup pine nuts Lovage dry ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan Marigold dry ¾ cup Marjoram dry Mints dry Pulse all ingredients until combined. Add Mitsuba freeze to taste. Nasturtium pickle seeds Oregano dry Variations: Substitute other herbs for basil, Parsley, curly freeze such as cilantro, tarragon, mint, sage or Parsley, flat leaf freeze dill. Other nuts, such as almonds, pumpkin Rosemary dry seeds, walnuts and cashews, can be substi- Sage dry tuted for pine nuts. Try with Savory, summer dry Savory, winter dry almonds, cilantro with toasted pumpkin Sorrel freeze seeds, oregano with walnuts and mint with Sweet cicely best fresh cashews. Sweet woodruff in Tarragon, French freeze, dry flavored Thyme dry Create your own special by making Thyme, lemon dry a combination of leaves, seeds and Thyme, silver dry in a good-quality vinegar. Choose a rice or wine vinegar for best results. White distilled or apple cider vinegars have strong

storing herbs / 23 flavors that can override the more delicate should be taken so that the vinegar is not flavors of herbs. boiled. Heating the vinegar also changes the color of the herbs and causes them Use a glass container that has been cleaned to decompose more readily. Unless the and sterilized. Select clean, fresh aromatic vinegar is needed quickly, the cool vinegar herbs on the stem; herb seeds such as anise, method is preferred. caraway, celery, coriander, dill, fennel or mustard; whole spices such as , Some fresh herbs add color as well as a , cloves, mace and black or white special flavor to vinegar. Purple basil results peppercorns; garlic cloves; fresh ginger; hot in a rich, ruby red vinegar; chive blossoms chilies; and citrus peel. make pink; tarragon results in a pale gold; and nasturtium blossoms make an orange Bruise herb seeds with a rolling pin or the vinegar. back of a heavy spoon. Place seeds, spices, and peeled and cut garlic in the bottom of concentrated herbal vinegar the container. Begin adding herbs, citrus To get as much flavor as possible, with the peel, peppers and other lighter material. least effort and expense, make a concentrat- A wooden skewer can be used to move ed herbal vinegar. Put as much of an herb them around. Twist branches to get them as possible into a jar and fill it with a good through narrow bottlenecks. Pack the quality white wine vinegar. The vinegar is container as full as possible with flavoring ready to use almost immediately. Each time materials, then fill with unheated vinegar you use the vinegar, top off the bottle with of your choice. Move the materials around more white wine vinegar. The flavor usually to be sure there are no pockets of air in the lasts for 3 or 4 fillings before the plant container. Cover and seal with a noncorro- material breaks down or loses strength of sive cap. Check the bottle within 24 hours flavor. When this occurs, pour the vinegar to make sure all plant materials are cov- through a strainer and discard the plant ered with vinegar; otherwise, as the herbs material. Other ingredients can be added settle in the bottles, the sprigs may become with the herbs to create flavored vinegars. exposed to the air, which causes a discolor- ation of the foliage. and beverages The vinegar should be ready to use You can brew a from almost any culi- in 24 to 36 hours. Store in a cool, nary herb alone or in combination with dark place. Add vinegar to the bot- black or green tea. Good tea herbs are lem- tle as it is used up, always keeping on balm, lemon thyme, lemon grass, lemon the plant material completely verbena, mint, sage, lavender, chamomile, covered. anise hyssop, scented basils, scented gerani- ums and sweet marjoram. To hasten the flavoring process, the vinegar can be heated Start by using 1 teaspoon of dried herb to just below the boiling or 4 teaspoons of fresh herb per 6-ounce point and poured over serving. You may vary the amount based on the herbs. To preserve your taste. Crush to help release flavor. Put the herb foliage, care directly into preheated teapot or a tea ball.

24 / storing herbs Add boiling water and steep no longer than Alternatively, , fresh herbs and flowers 10 minutes. If steeped too long, the herbs can be whirled together in a processor or will become bitter. For a stronger flavor, use blender until well combined, then stored in more herbs instead of steeping longer. plastic bags in the freezer. Storing in the freezer will prevent caking. If sweetener is desired, use since it combines better with herbal teas. The sugar will be ready to use in 2 or 3 weeks but will become more flavorful with Herbfarm Haymaker’s Switchel age. ¼ cup mint ¼ cup lemon balm Leaves and flower of many herbs can be ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice candied or crystallized into delicate, sweet, ¼ cup orange juice sugar-crisp decorations just like the French ¼ cup simple sugar syrup confections sold in specialty stores. Dip or paint the leaves or flowers with pasteurized Make sugar syrup by combining ⅓ cup egg whites. Dip in superfine sugar and al- sugar and ⅔ cup boiling water. Measure low to dry on a rack or on paper until ¼ cup and set remainder aside. Squeeze completely dry. citrus juices. Chop mint and lemon balm very fine (if lemon balm isn’t available, use herb salt all mint). Add orange and lemon juices to Herb are a flavor- the hot sugar syrup. Remove from heat. ful way of adding both Add chopped herbs and let steep, covered herbs and salts to meals. in the hot sugar syrup for 1 hour. Strain Start with ½ cup sea salt. mixture through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Sea salt can be readily blend- Combine with 2 quarts of ginger ale. Serve ed with your herbs. If using chilled. fresh herbs, do not wash unless necessary. If washing, herb sugars be very careful that every drop Herb sugars are delicately flavored sugars of moisture is removed from the foliage. that can be used to sweeten tea, whipped Mince the leaves, then crush them with the cream, cream toppings, frosting, meringues salt using a mortar and pestle or the base and , eliminating the necessity of add- of a heavy jar. An easier method is to put ing or other flavorings. the salt and herbs in the blender or food processor and whirl for a few minutes. A Sugars are made by layering white sugar very fine end product results. and the fresh leaves and flowers of sweet aromatic herbs such as scented geraniums, After crushing, spread the salt on a cookie lemon verbena, anise hyssop, mint, laven- sheet and dry in a 200°F oven for about 40 der and rose . Each sugar should be to 60 minutes or until the mixture seems stored in its own tightly closed container or dry. Be sure to break up any lumps and stir plastic bag. frequently during drying. When cool, seal in a glass jar.

storing herbs / 25 To make herb salts in a hurry, use dried Jam in a jiffy in the microwave herbs. Place the herbs and salt in the In a very few minutes an extra cup or 2 of blender or blend them together by hand. can be converted into an excellent Four or 5 tablespoons of herbs to about jam. The microwave cooking time is short, ½ cup of salt works well. Single herbs or a so the sparkling color and flavor of the combination of herbs can be used. Make fresh fruit is preserved. sure the herbs are very fine so they can be sprinkled through a shaker. added Begin with about 1½ cups of fresh or frozen to your herb salt gives a nice red color and berries. Mash them until well crushed and enhances the flavor. Store in an airtight juicy. Stir in ¾ cup of sugar and 2 teaspoons glass container. lemon juice. Add ¼ teaspoon to keep the foaming down. Cook uncovered in the To cure herbs with salt, layer dry herbs and microwave for about 7 or 8 minutes, stirring salt in a glass jar. Press down and cover. every 2 minutes to ensure even cooking. Store in a dark place. Use them as you Pour into a small jar. The jam will thicken would fresh herbs. Rinse well to remove as it cools. The jam will keep well in the excess salt when using herbs in a recipe, or refrigerator for about a month, or it can be reduce added salt. frozen for longer storage. jams and jellies mustards Most culinary herbs can be used in either Mustards can be as mild or tangy as you dried or fresh form to flavor jelly. Good jel- like. Experiment with flavors to see what ly herbs include scented geraniums, chive you like. blossoms, lemon verbena, scented basils, lemon thyme, chamomile, lavender, rose- To get a wider range of , use pow- mary, marjoram, parsley, thyme, fennel, dered mustard or mustard seeds. Sharp- sage and mint. ness is affected by the liquid used. Vinegar results in an English-style mustard, cham- In a large kettle, combine water, fruit juice pagne or white wine makes a Dijon-type or wine and the herbs (1 cup fresh herbs to mustard and flat beer makes a Chinese 2 cups water or 2½ cups juice or wine). Heat version. to scalding. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 minutes. Strain the liquid through a Tarragon and Green Peppercorn Mustard fine cloth or several thicknesses of cheese- ¼ cup light or dark mustard seeds cloth. Use this liquid and follow the direc- ⅓ cup tarragon white wine vinegar* tions for making mint jelly included with ⅓ cup water packaged pectin. ¼ cup dry white wine You can also produce a delicate herb flavor 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, minced in any fruit jelly by putting a leaf or small 1 tablespoon green peppercorns, crushed sprig into the jar after pouring the jelly. 1 tablespoon honey or 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

26 / storing herbs *You can make your own tarragon white herbal honeys and syrups wine vinegar by steeping fresh tarragon in Honeys and syrups benefit from the addi- white wine vinegar (see pages 23–24). tion of flavorful herbs. Some good herbs to Combine mustard seeds, vinegar, water and use in honey and syrup are flavored basils, wine in a bowl. Let sit for 4 hours, uncov- rose geranium, lemon verbena, lemon ered, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a thyme, lemon balm, fruit sages, lavender, blender or food processor. Process to the rosemary, anise hyssop and mints. desired consistency, from slightly coarse to Basic herb honey creamy. Pour into the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Stir in the remaining Bruise herbs very slightly to release flavors. ingredients. Cook for 10 minutes or until Place a layer of herbs in a small saucepan. thickened, stirring often. Mustard will be Cover with a mild honey and warm over thicker when cooled. Pour into sterilized low heat for 2 minutes. Pour into sterilized jars, cap tightly and store in the refrigera- jars and seal tightly. tor. Wait several days before using to allow Allow honey or syrup to stand in a warm flavors to blend. Makes 1 cup. room for 2 weeks to mingle flavors. Strain The easiest way to make herb mustards is to remove herb leaves. Serve on hot biscuits to add herbs of your choice to prepared or use as a sweetener for tea. Dijon-style mustard. Basic Herb Syrup Quick Herb Mustard Make an infusion by bringing 3 cups of 1½ cups Dijon-style mustard water to a boil and pouring it over 1 cup of ⅓ cup (or to taste) chopped fresh herbs herbs. Cover and infuse for several hours. of your choice Strain the liquid and combine with 2 cups 1½ tablespoons dry white wine of sugar in a non-aluminum saucepan over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil; Mix all the ingredients together well, place when the sugar dissolves, continue to cook, in a sterilized jar with a tight-fitting lid stirring occasionally, until the syrup thick- and store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 ens, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from months. heat, cool and bottle. This syrup will keep in the refrigerator for 3 months. Lemon-Dill Mustard 2 cups Dijon-style mustard herb ¼ cup chopped fresh dill To make herb butter, simply add minced 1 tablespoon lemon juice herbs to butter that has been allowed to 1 tablespoon lemon rind warm to room temperature. For each ¼-pound stick use 4 tablespoons fresh or Mix all ingredients together well. Makes 2½ 2 tablespoon dried herbs and 1 teaspoon cups. lemon juice or a few gratings of lemon . Add a little lemon juice and beat in a bowl or whirl in blender until fluffy and smooth. Place in covered container in refrigerator to

storing herbs / 27 mellow for 2 or 3 hours before using. But- ter will keep several days in the refrigerator.

If you will be freezing the butter mixture, roll it in a cylinder, which can be easily sliced into serving-sized portions. Or cut it into decorative shapes or mold in molds for a pretty presentation. ice cubes, bowls and rings Herb flower petals or whole herb flowers look lovely frozen in ice cubes, which can later be added to .

To avoid bubbles in ice bowls and rings, always use water that has been boiled and cooled. In a large freezer-proof bowl, pour ⅓ to 1 inch water. Add flowers and fruits, if desired. Place in freezer until frozen. When solidly frozen, remove from freezer. Place a smaller, freezer-proof bowl inside the larg- er one, setting it firmly on the ice base. Add additional flowers to the larger bowl. Place a weight in the inner bowl. Carefully pour water to the rim of the larger bowl. Return it to the freezer until the water is solidly frozen. Remove the weight. Wipe the inner bowl with a very hot cloth. When the inner bowl releases, repeat with the outer side of the larger bowl. Return the ice bowl to the freezer until needed.

28 / storing herbs using herbs

Cooking with herbs is like putting frost- Character herbs impart a strong, domi- ing on a cake. When you add herbs, you nant note to dishes, do not marry happily take something that is simple and make it with each other and are usually cooked special. Although it is a good idea to use for some time with the foods they flavor. recipes as you start cooking with herbs, Character herbs include tarragon, basil, make sure you know what each herb tastes rosemary, oregano, thyme, savory, sage and like before you use it. Take a clean leaf of coriander. the herb and chew but don't swallow it. Savor the taste like you would a fine wine; Now that you know a little about how check the fragrant bouquet, let the leaf herbs are used in a general sense, the third meet the tongue and chew thoughtfully. section of this publication will list the Learning about the flavor of the herb this herbs that grow in Alaska and tell you a way will help you to decide if it will make little about each one and how to use it and the perfect pot roast or sorbet. provide a few recipes. by flavor groups Bon appétit! • Anise or licorice—anise hyssop, tarra- gon, anise, chervil, fennel, sweet cicely • Mints—spearmint, peppermint, fla- vored mints (lemon, apple, etc.), perilla • Savory—rosemary, basil, sage, oregano, , marjoram, savory • Citrus—lemon balm, lemongrass, lem- on verbena, lemon/orange/lime thyme, lemon/lime basils, lemon/tangerine marigolds • Fruity—pineapple sage, bergamot, sweet woodruff, lemon and tangerine geraniums by their function in cooking Accent herbs give a subtle background to a dish, can be used in combination with each other and are added at the last mo- ment. Accent herbs include parsley, chives, chervil and dill.

using herbs / 29 Easy Ways to Use Herbs

Calendula (pot marigold)—Add fresh petals to tossed salad, mix fresh petals into white or yellow cake batter. Cilantro (coriander, Chinese parsley)—Add fresh leaves to tacos or sandwiches, chop fresh leaves and sprinkle over chili, or sprinkle fresh leaves and thin slices of lime over grilled salmon. Chamomile—Float fresh flowers in ice tea or a sweet white wine. Steep 2 teaspoons of dried flowers, stems or leaves in boiling water for tea. Chives—Add fresh chopped leaves to a tossed salad. Mix fresh or commercially dried leaves with cottage cheese, ricotta or cream cheese for a spread. Basil—Serve fresh leaves with sliced tomatoes, or mix fresh or dried leaves with butter and serve with . Dill—Mix fresh or dried leaves with cottage cheese, ricotta or cream cheese for a spread; mix fresh or dried leaves with sliced cucumbers; sprinkle fresh or dried leaves and over new potatoes; or crumple fresh stems and leaves over fish while cooking. Lavender—Float fresh flowers in a sweet white wine or sprinkle fresh flowers and leaves over vanilla . Tuck fresh or dried stems into the vacuum cleaner bag. Lovage—Sprinkle fresh leaves in tossed salad; sprinkle fresh leaves over or chili. Marjoram—Add fresh or dried leaves to ground for burgers, or . Add fresh or dried leaves to rice. Mint—Crumple a sprig into a pitcher of pink lemonade. Add fresh leaves to new potatoes. Oregano—Sprinkle fresh or dried leaves on ; add fresh leaves to a tossed salad. Parsley—Add fresh leaves to squash and serve with butter, . Rosemary—Tuck a fresh sprig into a glass of juice with ice; sprinkle a few fresh leaves over a fresh fruit salad; strip leaves and use woody stem as skewer for scallops or salmon chunks; or sprinkle fresh or dried leaves in olive oil, heat in microwave and serve with toasted French bread for dipping. Sage—Mix fresh or dried leaves into butter and serve with hot biscuits, or mix fresh or dried leaves with cottage cheese, ricotta or cream cheese for a spread. Savory—Sprinkle fresh or dried leaves over cooked beans, or use in ground meat for meatloaf or . Sorrel—Add fresh leaves to a tossed salad. Remove the mid-rib of fresh leaves and add to cream of or soup. Sweet woodruff—Float flowers in a sweet white wine; use leaves and flower sprigs as a gift decoration; or make a small flower arrangement with the leaves and fresh flowers. Tarragon—Tuck a fresh sprig into a glass of tomato juice with ice, or add fresh leaves and green grapes (cut in half) to chicken salad. Thyme—Add fresh or dried leaves to bread or biscuit dough, or stir fresh or dried leaves into butter for a delicious spread.

30 / using herbs anise hyssop and the vanilla and process for another 60 seconds. Anise hyssop is referred to as the herb that tastes Lightly toast and coarsely chop almonds. like candy. The leaves and Mix the flour and salt and add it to the tiny lavender-blue flowers processor. Process for about 20 seconds, of anise hyssop (Agastache until most of the flour has been incorpo- foeniculum) smell and taste rated. Add the almonds and process until of anise, but the square stems just mixed; do not overprocess. and opposite leaves tell you it belongs to the mint family. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured The leaves and flowers have a surface and gather it into a ball. Divide pronounced licorice flavor. into 3 parts and roll each in plastic wrap into a cylinder 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. Fresh or dried leaves and flowers Chill for about 1 hour, until firm, or place can be used as an herb tea or for in the freezer for about 20 minutes. flavoring herb teas; chopped and added to cakes, muffins or cookies; steeped and the Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the dough liquid used in custards, puddings and pie slightly less than ¼ inch thick with a sharp fillings; chopped and used in place of star knife. Place the rounds at least ½ inch anise in oriental-type marinades for apart on ungreased baking sheets. and fish; or used anywhere an anise or lic- Bake for about 12 minutes, changing the orice flavor is appropriate. The tiny flowers position of the baking sheets halfway make a beautiful purple and taste through baking, until the edges of the like licorice candy. cookies are just golden brown. Remove Anise Hyssop and Almond Butter Cookies cookies from baking sheets immediately to cool on racks. When cool, store in airtight Adapted from food.com containers. Makes 5 or 6 dozen cookies.

1 cup sugar Anise Hyssop Pear Tart ¼ cup anise hyssop florets 1 extra-large egg 3 large, ripe Bartlett pears 12 tablespoons butter 1 to 1½ cups coarsely chopped anise ½ teaspoon vanilla hyssop leaves and flowers 2 cups unbleached flour 2 cups half and half scant ½ teaspoon salt ⅓ cup sugar 2 ounces almonds 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 egg yolks Remove anise hyssop florets from their Pernod , to taste (optional) stalks. Measure ¼ cup and combine with ½ cup cold butter or margarine the sugar in a food processor and pulse 3 ounces cold cream cheese until blended. 1 cup all-purpose flour 3 or 4 fresh or dried anise hyssop flower Add the egg and process for about 60 sec- stalks onds. Cut butter into 12 pieces. Add butter

using herbs / 31 Cream iterranean herb. In a saucepan combine chopped anise In many parts of hyssop leaves and flowers and half and half. the United States it Slowly bring to a simmer. Remove from is also called rock- heat and allow anise hyssop to steep for 2 to et cress or garden 3 hours. Strain and discard leaves. rocket. In it is arugula, rugula When ready to assemble tart, mix sugar or rucolo, and in and cornstarch. Stir in anise hyssop-steeped , roquette. cream. Stir over medium-high heat until boiling. Stir some into the egg yolks; Arugula has a peppery taste, akin to - add to hot mixture and stir 1 minute. Stir es and can be as strong as horseradish and in Pernod (if using). Use hot. turnips. Use sparingly in salads or by itself, with only simple garlic as a Pears dressing, or combine it with other cooked With a knife, decoratively score round side greens to add a peppery flavor. Flowers of pears. Lay pears, flat side down, in a have a spicy aroma and the same taste as buttered 9×13-inch pan. the leaves. They can be used in a “flower” Pastry tossed salad or as a garnish. Cut butter and cheese into cubes. Combine Some simple ways to use arugula are to in a food processor with flour. Whirl until blend shredded arugula with melted butter mixture holds together. Press dough evenly for seafood, potatoes and ; add to over bottom and sides of an 11-inch tart vegetable frittata; serve with warm, red- pan with removable bottom. skinned salad on top; toss with lin- In a 375°F oven, set pastry on a low rack guine (add pieces of sun-dried tomato and and place pears on a rack above. Bake until a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese); crust is golden and pears turn brown, 20 to and combine with cherry tomatoes and 30 minutes. Cool. sprinkle with coarsely grated mozzarella.

Garnish New Potatoes with Creamy Arugula Sauce Carefully pull anise hyssop flowerlets from 6 small, red, new potatoes main stalk. 1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Assembly Dressing Pour hot anise cream into crust. Set pears, ¾ cup arugula round side up, in cream. Let cool, cover 2 tablespoons chopped walnuts lightly and chill overnight. Before serving, 1½ teaspoons fresh lemon thyme or scatter anise hyssop flowerlets between the thyme leaves pears. Serves 6 to 12. ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1½ tablespoon olive oil arugula 3 tablespoons whipping cream ¾ teaspoon (or more) fresh lemon juice Arugula is used as a type of in sal- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves ads, but it is also grown and used as a Med-

32 / using herbs walnuts used fresh in cooked recipes. In general, fresh mint sprigs it is added at the last moment, as cooking borage flowers (optional) quickly destroys the flavor. For Italian cooks basil is one of the important in Cook potatoes until just tender. Cut into a variety of tomato and pasta dishes. Thai quarters and place into a large bowl. Add ⅓ cooks use basil for stir-frying beef, seafood cup oil and mix to coat. Refrigerate while and poultry. preparing dressing. To keep the color a bright, garden green, For dressing: Finely chop arugula and ½ add a pinch or two of coarse salt to basil cup walnuts with thyme and pepper in a leaves before chopping. For best aroma and food processor. With the machine running, flavor, shred fresh basil gently with fingers gradually add oil through the feeding tube. instead of chopping with a knife. Add dried Gradually add cream through feeding tube, basil the during last minutes of cooking or blending with on/off turns. Mix in 1 table- use fresh. spoon lemon juice. Basil flowers have a mild basil flavor; use Pour dressing over potatoes. Add chopped any place you would use the leaves. They mint and mix. Season with salt and more are lovely scattered over salads, and lemon juice, if desired. Garnish with . The best way to remove chopped walnuts, mint sprigs and borage florets is to snip the stem closely above and flowers. Serve salad at room temperature. below each flower whorl, discarding the Serves 8. stems in between, which are bitter. Arugula Salad with Orange Vinaigrette 1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar Basil is one of the most commonly used 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice herbs. Consider one of the following simple ¼ teaspoon Dijon-style mustard uses: ¼ cup olive oil Use basil to flavor vinegars and salad 4 cups loosely packed arugula dressings. Vinegar made with opal basil is pink; vinegar made with purple ruffles is a In a small bowl whisk together the vinegar, beautiful red. orange juice, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Add the oil in a stream and whisk Basil butter, made by kneading a handful until the dressing is emulsified. of finely minced basil leaves into a quarter pound of butter along with a little lemon Rinse arugula, spin dry and remove coarse juice, is a useful mixture to have on hand. It stems. Toss the arugula with the vinaigrette. freezes well, and small pieces can be sliced Serves 3. as needed for a sauce to serve over broiled fish or poached eggs or for a spread on basil sourdough bread. Basil enhances almost everything and comes Perk up tossed salads by sprinkling crushed in a variety of flavors, including lime, lemon, basil over the salad or adding it to French and cinnamon. Basil is commonly or . Stir shredded leaves

using herbs / 33 into melted butter to pour over steamed Pesto is a creamy of fresh basil , boiled potatoes or . leaves and grated Parmesan cheese, gar- lic, pine nuts and olive oil. Traditionally Fresh basil leaves can be boiled and eat- made with a mortar and pestle, pesto can en spinach-style as an aromatic vegetable be used as a classic sauce for ribbon pasta dish. Basil belongs in every tomato dish, and potato gnocchi; a classic seasoning for from tomato juice to tomato aspics, , minestrone; a sauce for boiled and salads and soufflés. It gives a special touch fish, baked potatoes or potato salad, green to scrambled eggs, sausage, lamb, venison, beans or garbanzos; a stuffing for tomatoes beef, and all types of poultry. or roast chicken; and as a sauce over cold The robustness of basil rescues cheese dish- poached . es from blandness. Use it in cheese souf- Basil, Garlic and Cheese Sauce flés, cheese omelets, cheese puddings and cottage cheese. It is the perfect flavoring for 2 cups fresh basil leaves, stripped from egg and potato salads. their stems, coarsely chopped and tightly packed; or substitute 2 cups Basil flavors Manhattan clam chowder, fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley, coarsely minestrone, bean and beef soups, and it can chopped, and 2 tablespoons dried basil be used in the barbecue as a smoke pro- leaves ducer, as a basting brush and in marinade. 1 teaspoon salt For a spicy taste in seafood, use it in liquid ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to cook fish or shellfish. It gives an elusive, 1 to 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic tantalizing herbal taste to West Coast ciop- 2 tablespoons finely chopped pine nuts or pino. Wrap foods (shrimp, chicken, fish) walnuts for cooking in lettuce leaf basil. 1 to 1½ cups freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese Rolls and bread are well seasoned with 1 cup olive oil basil. It adds an aromatic twist to sand- wiches and when used in place To make in a blender: Combine the coarse- of lettuce. ly chopped fresh basil (or fresh parsley and dried basil), salt, pepper, garlic, pine nuts or A combination of basil, parsley and savory walnuts and 1 cup of olive oil in the blender has quite a biting flavor and serves nicely as jar. Blend at high speed until the ingredients a substitute for black pepper. are smooth, stopping the blender every 5 or 6 seconds to push the herbs down with Add ¼ teaspoon of basil to the water in a rubber spatula. The sauce should be thin which you boil potatoes and spaghetti. enough to run off the spatula easily. If it Scented basils give interesting flavors to seems too thick, blend in as much as ½ cup fruits and . When baking apples or more olive oil. Transfer the sauce to a bowl making apple pie, sprinkle a few leaves over and stir in the grated cheese. the apples for delicious flavor. To make by hand: Crush the coarsely Basil tea is a good tonic against the effects chopped fresh basil (or fresh parsley and of rheumatism. dried basil) with a mortar and pestle or

34 / using herbs place in a heavy mixing bowl and crush Place leeks in 2 layers in a 14×9×2-inch with the back of a large wooden spoon un- oval dish. Pour over leeks. Place til the herbs are smooth and almost paste- lemon slices evenly over leeks. Drizzle olive like. Work in the salt and pepper, garlic, oil over . Cover tightly with micro- and pine nuts or walnuts, and then add the wave-safe plastic wrap. Cook at 100 percent olive oil, ½ cup at a time, while continuing power in a high-power oven for 50 min- to crush the herbs. When the sauce is thin utes. Prick plastic to release steam. enough to run off the pestle or spoon easily, mix in the grated cheese. Remove from oven and uncover. Remove lemons, or leave on if desired. Sprinkle lime Lime Basil Sauce basil sauce evenly over leeks. Season with 4 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves salt and pepper. Serve hot or cold. Serves 8 ½ cup olive oil or salad oil as a side dish. 2 cups (about 8 ounces) freshly grated Tomatoes Stuffed with Lime Basil Sauce Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons sugar medium-sized, ripe tomatoes 3 cloves garlic, quartered dry bread crumbs ¼ cup lime juice Lime Basil Sauce

In a blender or food processor, combine Carefully scoop the flesh, juice and seeds basil, oil, 1 cup of the cheese, sugar, garlic from the tomatoes, leaving a shell. Chop and lime juice. Whirl until smoothly blend- the pulp; measure and add equal parts dry ed; scrape down sides of container several bread crumbs and the Lime Basil Sauce. times. Pack into the tomato shells, top with more dry bread crumbs and drizzle a little butter Good served with just about everything — on top, or top with some grated Parmesan cooked spaghetti, spaghetti squash, boiled cheese. Bake at 350°F just until tomatoes potatoes, steamed vegetables, fish and poul- are heated through. try. May be served hot, chilled or at room tem- The mixture freezes beautifully. Place in a perature as a salad or first course. zipper-type freezer bag to freeze. To use, break off what you need and put the rest Lemon Basil Chicken back in the bag and keep frozen. ½ cup butter or margarine 2 chicken breasts, split, skinned and Braised Leeks with Lime Basil Sauce boned 5 pounds leeks, trimmed to 6–7 inches 1 cup regular-strength chicken broth from the root end and washed well 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel 5 cups chicken or vegetable broth 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 1 2 lemons, sliced very thin and seeded tablespoon dried basil ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice ¼ cup lime basil sauce kosher salt and freshly ground black Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over me- pepper to taste dium heat in a 12-inch frying pan. Lightly brown chicken in butter. Add broth, grated

using herbs / 35 lemon peel, chopped basil and lemon juice; 1 small cantaloupe simmer, covered, until chicken is no longer fresh basil sprigs pink when cut in thickest part, 12 to 15 minutes. Lift out and keep warm. In a 2-to 3-quart pan, bring water and Boil pan juices, uncovered, over high heat sugar to a boil over high heat. Remove until reduced to about half. Reduce heat from heat and stir in basil leaves, mint and to medium. Add any accumulated juices ginger. Set aside to cool slightly. Mean- from the chicken, then add, in 1 chunk, the while, cut honeydew and cantaloupe in remaining 6 tablespoons of butter; stir con- half lengthwise and remove seeds. Cut each stantly until butter is melted. If the sauce honeydew half into 6 wedges. Cut off and is too thin to coat a spoon, simmer, un- discard rind. Place melon pieces in a 9×13- covered, shaking the pan constantly, until inch dish or pan. Pour the warm syrup over thicker. Pour around chicken. Garnish with melon; cover and chill 4 to 6 hours. Drain; basil leaves. 4 servings. discard liquid, leaves and ginger. Serve, or cover and chill up to overnight. Arrange Tomato Basil Sorbet equal portions of both melons on each of 6 ripe tomatoes 4 dinner plates; garnish with basil sprigs. juice of 1 large lemon Spoon yogurt onto individual portions. ½ cup sugar syrup* 6–8 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped borage ¾ cup Borage is a salt and pepper to taste dash Tabasco sauce Mediterranean herb that is Peel tomatoes. Put tomatoes, lemon juice, grown for both sugar syrup, basil and tomato sauce in its leaves and its a blender or food processor. Blend; add flowers. It is also seasoning as necessary. Freeze until slushy. known as bee bread Beat. Put in freezer until ready to serve. because it attracts . Borage is used throughout *Sugar syrup the world. In Asia Minor Bring 2 pounds sugar and 4 cups water to a it plays an important role gentle boil. Reduce heat until bubbles break as food and is used in soups or cooked as the surface. Simmer 10 minutes. Remove a green vegetable like spinach. In Genoa, from heat and cool. Store up to 3 weeks. chopped borage seasons ravioli stuffing while the leaves are served in . In Melon Steeped in Basil and Mint it is cultivated by Europeans to give 2 cups water beer a pleasant flavor. ⅓ cup sugar 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves Borage leaves taste like and can ⅓ cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves be added to salads (chop fine and sprinkle 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger like parsley or use whole young leaves), 1 small honeydew melon soups and cream cheese spreads.

36 / using herbs Leaves can also be cooked as a vegetable, ground pepper. Blend well and let stand though they become moist and sticky. while preparing the garlic and herbs. When cooked, they lose their bristles and become like dark green spinach. Boil with Add the garlic and herbs; toss well and only a little water, then chop fine and serve add sour cream and yogurt. Combine well, with butter. cover and chill for at least 30 minutes be- fore serving. Transfer to a pretty bowl and The leaves also enhance the flavor of iced garnish with a circle of borage blossoms tea and fruit drinks and can be served as a just before serving. garnish. Steep the leaves in boiling water to make a tea that stimulates the circulation Cold Cucumber Soup with Borage Flowers and soothes the throat. May be served hot 1½ cups peeled and diced cucumber or cold. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon dill seed Borage flowers also have a cucumberlike 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed flavor and are edible. The brilliant blue 1 teaspoon salt color makes them particularly decorative ¼ teaspoon white pepper in the salad bowl, floated in cider, punch ½ cup yogurt or lemonade, and as a decoration on cakes 1 cup sour cream and ice cream. They can also be candied: ¼ cup toasted chopped walnuts Dip them in pasteurized egg white, then cleaned borage flowers sugar and dry. In a large bowl, combine cucumber, olive Herbed Cucumber Dip with Borage oil, dill seed, garlic, salt and white pepper. Blossoms Let stand 3 hours. Adapted from deliciousliving.com Puree half the mixture in blender and add 1 medium cucumber, peeled and seeded to remainder. Stir in yogurt, sour cream 1 scant teaspoon white wine vinegar and toasted walnuts. Chill for 8 hours be- ½ teaspoon fore serving. Decorate with flowers. 3 dashes Angostura bitters Borage and Yogurt pinch sugar salt and freshly ground white pepper 3 cups plain yogurt 1 clove garlic, pressed 2 tablespoons fresh, coarsely chopped 2 teaspoons each finely chopped parsley borage leaves and basil 1 teaspoon finely minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill club soda 1⅓ cups sour cream 4 borage blossoms ⅔ cup yogurt about 20 borage blossoms In a blender, whirl together yogurt, borage, chives, and ½ cup club soda. Pour into a Finely chop the cucumber. Combine glass pitcher and add enough of the club cucumber, vinegar, soy sauce, bitters and soda to make a drink the consistency of sugar, and season with salt and freshly light cream. Float borage blossoms on top.

using herbs / 37 calendula Eggs Marigold Add dried and crushed marigold petals Calendula, with its bright yellow flowers, is to yolks of hard-cooked eggs, along with also known as pot marigold and marigold. , before filling the white halves. The best varieties for culinary purposes are Remove petals from fresh marigolds and the small, flowered, signet marigolds (‘Tan- tuck them into the centers of the stuffed gerine’ or ‘Lemon Gem’), orange calendulas eggs, arranging them to look like a flower (Kablouna) or Mexican marigold (Tagetes garnishing each egg half. lucida), which has an anise-licorice flavor. Marigold Cauliflower The culinary uses of fresh petals are primar- ily in salads and dried petals in and Add 2 teaspoons crushed, dried marigold soups. Also try adding them chopped fine petals to cauliflower during the last 10 min- to your favorite bread pudding recipe, pasta, utes of cooking, making sure the cauliflow- biscuits, salad dressing or scrambled eggs. er is completely immersed and becomes colored an even yellow. Pour melted Fresh, dried or frozen calendula petals can butter with chopped parsley over the cau- be used in any way you would use saffron, liflower and decorate with fresh marigold but more generously, since they are milder flowers. and their color fades more than saffron does in cooking. The finely crumbled petals Marigold Cheese Dip may be used to color butter, rice, , 1 large package cream cheese , cream soups and broths during ½ pint sour cream cooking. They give foods a deep yellow 1 teaspoon sherry color, as if many eggs are added. They are 1 teaspoon minced fresh chives also used in tea for flavor and color. 1 teaspoon fresh summer savory, chopped fine The petals have no taste before they are 1 tablespoon fresh marigold petals, cooked and after cooking taste a little bitter, chopped fine but when mixed with cream cheese and other ingredients they have an unusual and Blend cheese, cream and sherry until savory flavor. The deepest orange flowers smooth. Add chives, savory and marigold are said to have the strongest taste. petals (if dried ones are used, soak in water for half an hour before using and drain Marigold Rice thoroughly). Season with salt and freshly Add dried marigold petals, onion sautéed ground pepper, if desired. Refrigerate for in butter and some rosemary to chicken or at least 1 hour. Serve with chips, crackers, beef bouillon when cooking rice. tacos or small, hot biscuits. Serves 6 to 12. Marigold Fish Chowder chervil Add dried marigold petals to your favor- ite fish chowder recipe or add marigold Chervil's name comes from the chae- petals to canned fish chowder and prepare rephylum, “a joy-giving leaf.” It is also called according to the directions on the can. beaked parsley and French parsley. Though it is referred to as the gourmet’s parsley, it

38 / using herbs tastes more like tarragon 1 cup chervil, chopped or anise than parsley. salt and pepper, to taste Flowers are edible, with a flavor like Cook the potatoes in water to cover until parsley with hints of they are tender but still firm. Peel the tarragon and citrus. potatoes while they are hot. With a heated Chervil brings knife, slice them into a warm bowl set in a out the best in bowl of hot water. Moisten the slices with other herbs and the olive oil and let them stand for 15 min- foods with which utes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. it is combined. Chop finely the onions and add them to Chervil tastes best when the potatoes in the bowl. Combine the not cooked or cooked very little, so add it beef broth with the white wine vinegar and at the last moment to soups or sauces. mustard.

Chervil is a fine flavoring for cold drinks Pour the dressing over the potatoes and such as tomato juice cocktail as well as fruit sprinkle with the chopped fresh chervil. juices, omelets, deviled and scrambled eggs, Toss the potatoes and the dressing by shak- cottage cheese, appetizers, sandwiches, and ing the bowl. Do not blend with a spoon. oysters or mussels. Serve the salad in the bowl.

Chervil can be used in any kind of salad Leek and Chervil Soup (green, vegetable, potato or seafood), in butter to enhance chicken, fish or cooked 3 tablespoons leeks, washed and chopped vegetables, and in soups, especially cream 2 tablespoons carrots, minced of carrot or potato. Sprinkle it lavishly on 6 tablespoons butter chops, fish and and use as a garnish 3 tablespoons potatoes, diced for meatloaf or over slices of cantaloupe, 4 tablespoons fresh chervil, chopped honeydew or crenshaw melons. It is indis- 5 cups chicken stock ½ cup light cream pensable for béarnaise sauce and fine herb pepper to taste combinations and makes a lovely platter garnish if added at the last moment to Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large sauce- meats, salads or vegetables. Black bread is pan. Add vegetables and sauté for 10 delicious with ripe avocado and sprinkled minutes, stirring occasionally. Add chicken with chopped fresh chervil. stock, pepper and chervil, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 40 Chervil and Potato Salad minutes. Puree in a blender until smooth. 10 unpeeled new potatoes Return puree to a clean pan and bring to ½ cup olive oil a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 5 minutes; 2 small onions add cream and remaining butter. Simmer 1 cup beef broth until butter melts. 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon-type mustard

using herbs / 39 Chervil Butter flowers are similar in flavor to the leaves ½ cup butter or margarine, room tem- and can be used in salads, as a garnish, or perature in vinegars. ¼ teaspoon grated lemon peel Some simple ways to use chives are to dip 1½ tablespoons fresh (or 2 teaspoons the flowers in light batter and deep fry until dried) chervil light brown as an accompaniment to fish; 2 drops hot pepper sauce add finely snipped chives, along with an In a small bowl, cream butter or margarine equal amount of minced parsley, to rice; and lemon peel until fluffy. Add chervil and or add to grainy mustard on grilled fish or pepper sauce. Beat until light and blended. chicken. Try wrapping whole leaves around Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate. bundles of carrot strips, beans or . Remove from refrigerator about 20 minutes Chive Avocado Soup before serving. Makes ½ cup. 2 ripe chives ¼ cup sour cream 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock, at Though chives are a member of the onion room temperature family, they do not impart the strong, hot 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh flavor typical of onions. Chives are com- snipped chives patible with virtually every kind of food ½ tablespoon salt except sweet. They have a light, delicate freshly ground white pepper to taste but unmistakable onion flavor, but lack the strong fragrance and aftertaste of onions. Peel and remove the seeds from the avo- Chives can be used as a mild onion substi- cados. Puree the avocados with the sour tute in almost any recipe calling for a touch cream. Blend the avocado puree with the of raw onion as a flavoring ingredient. stock, chives, salt and pepper. Chill. Thirty minutes before serving, bring to a cool Use them finely snipped or in long strips. room temperature. Garnish with fresh Always use a scissors to cut them since chives and/or chive blossoms. Serves 4. chopping with a knife crushes out the juice. Use chives to perk up soups and stews, om- elets, scrambled eggs, hors d’oeuvres, fish sauces, salads and cooked vegetables. They can be used in jellied soups in summer, particularly vichyssoise, added to Hollan- daise sauce and used to flavor biscuit and bread dough.

Cut the leaves into cream cheese for use as a spread, cottage cheese as a low calo- rie salad and sour cream as a topping on baked potato. They can be used as a garnish on salads, casseroles or meat platters. The

40 / using herbs Low-Calorie “Sour Cream” with Chives end. Place in ice water to chill until the cut ½ cup buttermilk radish opens into a flower-like shape. 1 cup whole curd cottage cheese ½ teaspoon lemon juice cilantro/coriander 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives All parts of the cilantro plant Place buttermilk, cottage cheese and lemon are edible, although it is juice in a blender or processor. Blend at most often used in the leaf highest speed until very smooth. Fold in form (cilantro) chives and refrigerate at least 3 hours before or as dried seeds serving; it thickens as it chills. Use as a sub- (coriander). It stitute for regular sour cream on potatoes. is one of the first herbs and Alaska Salmon in the Snow spices ever used in 4 salmon fillets cookery. 1 teaspoon salt, divided There is no substitute for 1¼ cups heavy cream the fresh leaves. When the leaves 5 teaspoons lemon juice are cooked, the strong flavor is somewhat 2 tablespoons snipped chives tamed, giving a deeper more expansive fla- 1¼ teaspoons grated lemon rind vor rather than a sharp, contrasting accent. garnish: very thin slivers of lemon rind Because its flavor changes with cooking, and several very small red radish it is usually added to cooked dishes just “flowers”* before serving. Sprinkle salmon with ½ teaspoon salt. Use cilantro much the same way you do Arrange salmon in a well-greased shallow parsley, but less generously, unless you like baking dish. Mix well the cream, lemon a predominately licorice flavor. The flavor juice, chives, grated lemon rind and the re- combines well with sage and lemon and maining ½ teaspoon salt; pour over the fish. complements flavors such as garlic and Bake uncovered in a preheated 400°F oven, chives. Cilantro goes well with beans, corn, basting with the cream sauce once or twice, pork and poultry and enlivens sausages and until flesh barely separates when tested eggs, cheese, pasta and marinades for bar- with a knife, about 15 minutes. To serve, becued meats. Use the leaves in dishes with spoon sauce over salmon and garnish with many flavors and with spicy foods such as a few slivers of lemon rind and the radish and ; chop onto fish; add to on the side. cream cheese for a dip; stuff inside chick- en before roasting; and warm with butter *To create radish flowers, trim off the root for a piquant sauce for vegetables such as end and stem. Then make several parallel garbanzos and corn. cuts from the root end nearly to the stem end. Turning the radish 90 degrees, make The seed is called coriander and comes a second set of parallel cuts at right angles from the Greek word korios, meaning bed- to the first cuts — again, nearly to the stem bug. It is used by the Chinese in seafood, chicken and pork dishes; by Japanese as a

using herbs / 41 garnish; by Middle Easterners in lamb and 1 cup moist dried apricots vegetable dishes; by Portuguese in meat 12 large sprigs fresh cilantro and fish stews; and by Russians in a tasty 2 bay leaves sauce that combines fresh coriander, wal- 1 sprig fresh thyme nuts, yogurt, red pepper and garlic. 3 sticks whole cinnamon 2 tablespoons lemon juice Use seeds in and , salt and black pepper to taste spices, sausages and many baked goods. Add them to salads and fish, peach- In a heavy Dutch oven, heat olive oil. Add es and apple cobblers, , and chicken onion, ginger and ground coriander. Sauté or beef stock. Chew on seeds to aid diges- for 2 minutes. Add lamb and stir to coat tion and keep the breath fresh. Use flowers with the onion mixture. Cover and cook as a garnish and in bouquets. over low heat for about 1 hour, adding a little water if necessary to prevent sticking. Classic Stir in apricots. Tie 6 sprigs of fresh cori- 2 large tomatoes (about 1 pound) ander, bay leaves, thyme and cinnamon 1 large cucumber, peeled, halved length- together with kitchen string. Place on top wise, seeded of meat; cover and simmer until apricots 1 medium onion are tender, about 10 minutes. 1 large roasted red bell pepper 3 cups tomato juice Remove from heat and discard corian- ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro der-cinnamon bouquet. With a slotted ⅓ cup red wine vinegar spoon, remove lamb and apricots to a ¼ cup olive oil heavy serving platter. Keep warm. Stir ⅛ teaspoon hot pepper sauce (such as honey into pan juices; boil to reduce and Tabasco) thicken the sauce. Stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour Cut 1 tomato, ½ cucumber and ½ onion the heated sauce over the lamb. Coarsely into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a food chop remaining fresh coriander and sprin- processor. Add bell pepper and puree. kle over lamb. Serves 6. Transfer to a bowl. Add tomato juice, cilan- tro, vinegar, oil and hot pepper sauce. Seed Stir-Fried Snow Peas with Cilantro remaining tomato. Dice tomato, cucumber 2 tablespoons and onion halves and add to the soup. Sea- 1 cup thinly sliced son with salt and pepper. Refrigerate. Serve 4 cups snow peas well chilled. Serves 6. ½ cup chicken broth 2 teaspoons cornstarch Moroccan Lamb ½ cup finely chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons olive oil soy sauce (optional) 1 large onion, thinly sliced sugar (optional) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger 1 teaspoon ground coriander Heat oil in a wok or large skillet until it is 3½ pounds boneless lamb, cut in 1-inch almost hot. Add the scallions and cubes snow peas and toss them quickly, just until

42 / using herbs they are coated with oil. Add chicken broth, onnaise cover skillet and cook for 3 minutes while to accom- you mix cornstarch with 2 tablespoons pany cold water and the cilantro. Stir mixture quickly poached fish or into peas and cook, stirring, until sauce lobster. For an ele- thickens. Taste and add a little soy sauce gant sauce for poached and/or sugar if you like. Serves 4. fish, break a bunch of fresh dill in pieces dill and whirl in a blend- er with a cup of sour Dill is the perfect seasoning for most veg- cream; chill before etables. The principal difference between serving. seed and weed is the degree of — seed has a robust flavor while weed is Dill gives a distinctive flavor to subtle and has a delicate bouquet. dozens of Scandinavian dishes. Gravlax is fresh salmon marinated in sugar and Use dill for flavoring salads, soups and and bunches of fresh dill and is often sauces. Add it as a seasoning for beet, po- served with a dill and mustard sauce. Sprigs tato or seafood salads, or tomato and snippets of dill are strewn over herring soups, scrambled eggs or egg salads, pot dishes and on salads of cucumber and sour roast, cream sauce poured over boiled or cream, and they often garnish the smorgas- baked potatoes, breads or butters, or sprin- bord and provide the herbal taste of spring kle it over lamb chops. Dill can be used for boiled new potatoes. Dill seed in apple alone or in combination with other herbs. pie is un-American, but as Scandinavian as Use seeds for flavoring breads and rolls smorgasbord and a perfectly fine combina- and . Put sprigs or seeds on cheese tion. In , dill is used in buttermilk sandwiches. soup, and in France it is used to flavor New cooks add a few seeds to cakes and pastries. water, wine or stock in which they poach Shrimp with Dill Sauce Fourth of July salmon. There are countless recipes for dill pickles made with cucum- 2 tablespoons margarine bers as well as carrots, beets, cauliflower 1 tablespoon cornstarch and snap beans. 1½ teaspoons fresh dill ¼ teaspoon salt Either dill weed or dill seed heads can be ⅛ teaspoon pepper used in flavoring vinegar. When seed heads 1 cup are used, vinegar has a pinkish color. Dill ¼ teaspoon dry sherry vinegar is good on salads, in tomato juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice and in marinades for vegetables. Dill weed 1 pound shrimp cleaned and deveined from vinegar can be used as a garnish when cooked rice making hors d’oeuvres. In a medium saucepan melt margarine over Add dill to hot melted butter to serve with low heat. Blend in cornstarch, dill, salt and boiled lobster, crab or shrimp or to may- pepper; stir until smooth. Remove from

using herbs / 43 heat. Gradually stir in milk until smooth. It enhances the flavor of vegetables, light Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring grains, roast chicken, steamed vegetables constantly, and boil 1 minute. Stir in sherry, and fruit salads. It also teams well with lemon juice and shrimp. Reduce heat and corn, broccoli, asparagus, lamb, shellfish, simmer 3 minutes or until heated through. freshly ground black pepper, olives and Serve over rice. Serves 4. beans. Use leaves and flowers for tempu- ra, and use as a barbecue brush for fish or Cucumber Sour Cream Sauce chicken. 1 cup sour cream 1½ cups finely chopped cucumbers Toss whole or chopped fresh leaves into 1 tablespoon cider vinegar green salads, fruit salads, marinated veg- 1 tablespoon fresh dill etables, chicken salads, poultry stuffing, 2 teaspoons sugar marinades for fish and punch. dash white pepper Simple ways to use lemon balm: Lay fish or Combine all ingredients. Let stand for fla- chicken over a bed of lemon balm leaves vors to blend. Serve over broiled or baked before baking or stuff the body of a chicken fish or salad greens or in potato salad. with leaves before roasting. Add minced leaves to soft-cooked custard to pour over lemon balm fruit or to the filling for lemon meringue pie. Candy leaves for garnishes. Lemon balm is the perfect tea herb. Its mild flavor Lemon balm can be used in jellies. Tuck a allows it to blend with leaf in a jelly jar before pouring in jelly, or most other herbs. use an infusion for part of the liquid called Leaves are best when for in the recipe. used fresh, but leaves Steep leaves in Chablis or iced tea, strain and stems can be dried and served chilled with sprig of balm on for a mild, lemony top, or freeze a leaf in an ice cube. tea. For a tea with more As a tea, lemon balm is an effective night- character, cap; combine equal parts lemon balm, add it and other chamomile and catnip. It is also a satisfying mints to a base of black tea. brew with mint and anise hyssop. Flowers are fragrant yellow-white; use as you do leaves. Lemon Balm Mayonnaise 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Add a little chopped lemon balm to any 1 pasteurized egg yolk, room tempera- dish that calls for lemon juice. Add near ture, or 1 tablespoon egg product the end of cooking since the aromatic oils 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard are dissipated by heat. The fragrance keeps ½ teaspoon salt fairly well in baked goods as it is captured ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper by the surrounding medium. ½ cup olive oil Lemon balm is good in soups or salads. ½ cup corn oil

44 / using herbs ¼ cup freshly diced Mix juices, rum and grenadine in a glass 3 tablespoons minced fresh lemon balm pitcher. Add lemon balm sprigs, bruising or sorrel them slightly. Steep the punch in the refrig- 2 tablespoons dry white wine erator for at least 3 hours, preferably all day.

Combine lemon juice, yolk, mustard, salt Remove the lemon balm sprigs. Rub the and pepper in the bowl of an electric mixer. rims of 4 chilled glasses with a lemon balm Slowly beat in both oils in a thin stream. leaf. Serve the punch on the rocks or over Mix in shallot, lemon balm and wine. Cov- crushed ice. Serves 4. er and refrigerate until well chilled.

Avgolemono (Greek Lemon Soup) lemon verbena Lemon verbena is the most authentic lem- 4 cups chicken stock ¼ cup long-grain rice on scent of all lemon-scented herbs. To use, 3 eggs strip leaves from stems and use whole or 3 tablespoons lemon juice chopped. Fresh leaves are tough, so be sure salt and white pepper to remove them from marinades, bever- 2 tablespoons finely chopped lemon balm ages and salad dressings before serving. leaves The blossoms make a lovely garnish. They are white to pale lilac and share the lemon Bring stock to a boil, add rice, cover and fragrance of the leaves. simmer until rice is soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, beat eggs until frothy, then Lemon verbena combines well with basil, slowly beat in lemon juice. chives, mint, parsley and tarragon. It can be used in place of lemon zest in desserts, Just before serving, heat stock to a simmer. soups, salads, fruit dishes, summer coolers, Add about a cup of stock very slowly to the vegetables and custards. Use in beverages egg mixture, beating constantly until well such as teas, summer coolers and straight- mixed. Slowly stir this mixture into the up martinis and like mint as a garnish in simmering stock and keep stirring while it iced drinks. In jelly, use it as part of the infu- simmers for a few minutes and thickens to a sion or place a sprig in the jar and pour hot thin custard. Don’t let it boil — it will curdle. jelly over it. Chopped leaves can be added to a , sprinkled over a tomato salad, a Taste soup, add salt and pepper if you think seasonal fruit salad, a fruit cup or on cooked it needs seasoning, and stir in lemon balm. rice just before serving. Add dried leaves to Serve immediately. Serves 4. batter when baking carrot, banana or zuc- Balmy Sunset chini bread. Place sprigs in drawers to give a lemony scent, or put a handful of leaves 1½ cups unsweetened pineapple juice in your bath. If substituting lemon balm for 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice lemon verbena, use twice the amount. ¾ cup light rum 1½ teaspoons grenadine Lemon Verbena Ricotta Pancakes 4 or 5 (5-inch) lemon balm sprigs ⅔ cup ricotta cheese garnish: lemon balm leaves 2 large eggs

using herbs / 45 ¼ cup low- milk An Elegant Appetizer 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour Place lemon verbena leaves on a crystal 2 teaspoons sugar plate. Set honeydew wedge on leaves and ¼ teaspoon baking powder top with a paper-thin slice of pink ham. ⅛ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon julienned lemon rind, chopped lovage 1 teaspoon finely minced lemon verbena Garden lovage is one of the leaves herbs and is also known as “love parsley.” 2 teaspoons It tastes sharply of celery and parsley with a spicy depth. The flavor is stronger than The night before, put the cheese in a paper celery and should be used with a lighter coffee filter in a strainer over a bowl; cover touch. The roots and seeds add a taste of with plastic wrap and refrigerate. In the yeast to soups and stews. The whole plant morning, discard the whey collected in the may be used as a vegetable. Braise young bowl. stalks as you would celery. If it goes to seed, Process egg yolks and ricotta cheese in a use the seeds for making breads, herb but- food processor or blender until smooth. ters, chicken salads, meatloaf and candy. Add milk, flour, sugar, baking powder and Add leaves and stalks to soups, stews, cas- salt and process until completely blended. seroles, roasts and gravy as well as salads, Fold in lemon rind and lemon verbena. dressings, marinades and sauces. Chop and sprinkle on cooked vegetables, stews Beat egg whites in a mixing bowl until just and broiled meats. Lovage is traditionally stiff but still moist. Fold gently into batter. used on potatoes in all forms. Mix with Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in a large sour cream to spoon on baked potatoes, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Drop add with marjoram to potato soup, add to batter by ¼ cupfuls onto skillet and cook mashed potatoes and put it in white sauce until tops are bubbly and look dry. Turn with parsley and dill for boiled potatoes. and cook the second side until golden brown. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve Simple ways to use lovage: Make a cup of immediately with Raspberry Sauce. bouillon soup, add a few lovage leaves, sprinkle with some grated cheese. Fold a Raspberry Sauce combination of chopped lovage, tarragon 2 cups raspberries, fresh or frozen and parsley into cooked brown or white ¾ cup sugar rice along with a few gratings of lemon rind. Use in flavored vinegar. Candy stems Heat and simmer berries until sauce coats and leaves for decorating cakes and cook- the back of a spoon. Strain sauce through ies. Place broiled or roast meats on a bed of a fine mesh sieve and discard pulp. Cool, lovage on a serving platter and you’ll get a cover and refrigerate sauce. Keeps for a beautiful garnish, a delicate seasoning and couple of weeks in the refrigerator. Can be a wonderful aroma. Crush leaves and put frozen. them in bath water.

46 / using herbs The hollow stems are used by the Pennsyl- 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard vania Germans as tubes through which to 2 tablespoons lemon juice drink water or milk when they have a sore 2 tablespoons minced fresh lovage, divided mouth or throat. The stem also makes a salt and pepper to taste nice straw for sipping tomato juice cock- 2 tablespoons grated lemon peel tails or Bloody Marys. Separate cauliflower into florets; cook until Herbed Gougeres tender and drain. Or thaw and drain frozen 8 tablespoons butter cauliflower. Do not cook. ¼ teaspoon salt In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, oil 1 cup all-purpose flour and garlic. Pour over cauliflower while still 4 eggs slightly warm. Chill. Mix sour cream, lemon 1 cup coarsely grated Gruyere cheese juice, mustard and 1 tablespoon lovage; set 1 tablespoon chopped fresh lovage aside. Drain any unabsorbed dressing from 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives cauliflower. Toss cauliflower gently with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill sour cream sauce so florets don’t break. In a saucepan, combine the butter, salt and Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon 1 cup water. Bring to a boil. Turn off the lovage and the lemon peel. Makes about 6 heat and add the flour all at once; beat well servings. with a wooden spoon until it is incorporat- ed. Return the saucepan to moderate heat marjoram and cook until the dough becomes quite Marjoram is one of the most frequently stiff and pulls away from the sides of the used culinary herbs. It goes with almost pan. any food or herb and tastes like a mild oregano with hint of balsam. Some describe Remove from the heat and beat in the eggs, the flavor as piney and sweet. This sweet- one at a time. Stir in ⅔ cup of the cheese ness complements the spiciness of oregano, and all the chopped herbs. bay, garlic, onion, coriander, parsley, rose- Preheat the oven to 425°F. Drop the dough mary, savory, thyme and basil. by tablespoonfuls onto an ungreased It is especially good with beef, veal, lamb, baking sheet to make individual puffs or roast poultry, fish, pâtés, green vegetables, to form a ring. Sprinkle with remaining carrots, cauliflower, , eggs, mush- cheese. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until rooms, , potatoes, squash and to- puffed and golden brown. matoes. Add it to stews, sautés, marinades, Cauliflower in Lemon Cream dressings, herb butters, flavored vinegars and oils, cheese spread, soups and stuffings. 1 head cauliflower or 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen cauliflower It goes well with beans and can be used 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar in white bean salads, over steamed green 3 to 5 tablespoons oil beans and in bean, split pea or lentil soups. 1 small clove garlic, crushed Stir generous amount of marjoram into ½ cup sour cream batter for cornbread and corn muffins, add

using herbs / 47 to pie crust for meat and fruit pies, and use 1 pint water as a garnish for salad or as a salad green. In salt barbecuing, it is a smoke producer and can freshly ground black pepper be used as an herbal basting brush. marjoram Toss cooked spaghetti with finely minced Put pork and onions through the coarse sweet marjoram, olive oil and a sprinkling disk of a meat grinder. (If there was a bone of red pepper flakes. Coat seedless grapes in the pork shoulder, cover it with water with cream cheese smoothed with heavy and simmer while you are grinding the cream and roll in minced, fresh sweet mar- meat. Use the resulting broth in place of joram. Chill until ready to serve. the water.) Add water (or broth) and the salt, pepper and marjoram to taste (about and Marjoram Salad 3 tablespoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper and 6 cooked sweet potatoes 1 ounce of marjoram). Knead the mixture 1 small onion with both hands. 1 medium celery rib ⅓ cup olive oil Form into sausage patties. Fry or grill until juice of 1 lemon the meat is cooked through. Or stuff into 2 teaspoons soy sauce sausage casings and cook or freeze. ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley To cook, prick sausages in several places. 4 to 5 sprigs of marjoram or 1 teaspoon Put in frying pan with about 1 inch of wa- dried marjoram ter and simmer for 20 minutes. Cook away salt and freshly ground pepper to taste any remaining water and carefully brown garnish: ½ cup cashew nuts, freshly sausages in the fat left in the pan. toasted Peel sweet potatoes and cut them into mexican mint marigold ½-inch dice. Finely dice the onion and This fine culinary substitute for tarragon is celery. Put the vegetables in a large bowl. also known as cloud plant (), sweet Mix the olive oil, lemon juice and soy mace, Mexican or winter tarragon, sweet sauce in a small bowl. Stir in the chopped or mint-scented marigold, plant, parsley. Stem and chop the fresh marjoram Mexican marigold mint and yerba anise. or crumble the dried leaves. Add to the The flavor is indistinguishable from that olive oil and season the dressing lightly. of tarragon. Because mint marigold breaks Toss the dressing with the vegetables. Just down more quickly if heated, it is best add- before serving, sprinkle the salad with the ed at the end of cooking. Substitute it for cashews. The salad can be served warm or tarragon in equal portions in salads. at room temperature. Serves 6. Chop fresh leaves and use them to sea- Barb’s Boosha’s Polish Sausage son chicken and tossed green salads. Stuff chicken with fresh branches before bak- 10 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch ing. Brew into sweet, anise-flavored tea. pieces Sprinkle petals in salads and float them in 2 onions, coarsely chopped summer drinks.

48 / using herbs While stems of the plant are still green and nursery catalogs you may find spearmint, pliable, weave them together in groups of 6 ginger mint, chocolate mint, mojito mint, or 9 as you would braid hair, then tie the 2 pineapple mint, apple mint, orange mint ends of each group together to form a cir- and more. Each one has its own taste and cle. Dried leaves can be removed as needed might not be easily substituted in a recipe for cooking. If the wreaths are made small for regular fresh mint. It is fun to experi- and interwoven with other herbs, they can ment, however. be tossed whole into a soup or stew as a . Mint can be stored fresh or dried for future use. If you are keeping it fresh, wrap it in a Foiled Baked Fish damp paper towel and store it in the crisper Place 1 pound of fresh fish fillets on a piece drawer of the refrigerator. Or take fresh of buttered aluminum foil or parchment. stems of mint and stand them upright in a Slash the fillets at 2-inch intervals and jar of water and keep in a cool place. This insert a thin slice of lemon into each cut. will keep it fresh for as long as 2 to 3 weeks Dot the fish with butter, salt and pepper to and it will be ready to use at a moment’s taste, then sprinkle with a cup of chopped notice. It is easy to dry and is great as tea, Mexican mint marigold leaves. Double fold either by itself or as part of a tea blend. the edges of the foil to seal; fold parchment Mint has many beneficial qualities. It can around the fish letter style, then turn the calm an upset stomach, help you be more ends under. Bake the packet no more than alert and even stimulate digestive enzymes. 20 minutes in an oven preheated to 350°F. The fish is done when it flakes easily. Avoid Mint complements many foods, especially overcooking. summer foods like tomatoes, eggplant, squash, cucumbers, watermelon, melons mint and peppers. It goes well with other sum- mery herbs such as parsley, cilantro, basil Mint is one of the most common herbs, and dill and also with citrus flavors such as and in the garden, it grows like a weed. It lemon and lime and spices such as cumin, is an aggressive plant that can quickly take ginger, garlic, and curry powders or pastes. over, so it is important to contain it. Some It is used liberally in many mints overwinter during milder Alaska Thai and - winters. Ginger mint is one of the hardy ern dishes. Many varieties. ethnic groups, Mint’s flavor is very delicate, so it should including Arme- be added close to the end of cooking time, nians, Greeks, or it should be sprinkled over the dish after Persians, Spanish, it is plated. It can also discolor if chopped Indians, Brazilians, and left for any length of time. Africans, and Latin and Caribbean people, make There are over 600 different mint varieties use of the fresh taste of around the world, providing an amazing mint. array of minty flavors. In greenhouses or

using herbs / 49 Minted Fruit Salad nasturtium 1 cantaloupe, rind and seeds removed, Nasturtiums are grown for their blossoms cut into small pieces with a knife or and the peppery flavor of their leaves. They melon baller are called “Indian cress” because when they 1 apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced were first introduced, they were used as a ½ pound grapes, halved salad green. 2 kiwis, peeled, quartered and sliced ⅓ cup fresh mint, chopped, plus addi- The blossoms add peppery flavor to lettuce tional for garnish or vegetable salads, particularly cabbage Combine fruit and chill. Right before serv- and green bean salads. They can be used ing, add mint; toss and serve. as a garnish for fruit salads, on hot fish, in sandwiches, as a garnish for meat or as an Strawberry Smoothie addition to vinegar. Try floating a flower 1 cup unsweetened frozen or fresh straw- in a bowl of vichyssoise or cold cream of berries asparagus soup. 1 teaspoon coarsely chopped mint leaves Simple ways to use nasturtiums: For an un- ½ cup orange juice usual spread, mince and blend the flowers ½ cup low-fat vanilla yogurt with butter. Make rice with consommé and Place the strawberries, mint leaves, orange fold in chopped blossoms. For a colorful juice and yogurt in a blender jar. Whip salad dressing, whirl about 2 dozen blos- until thick and smooth. The mint adds a soms into ½ pint of mayonnaise. To use as a refreshing flavor note to the smoothie. cocktail hors d'oeuvre, carefully stuff blos- soms with small amounts of a spread, such Orange Mint Rice Salad as cream cheese and chives, cream cheese Recipe courtesy of USA Rice Federation at and pineapple, ham salad, fresh crab meat www.usarice.com salad, egg salad, tuna salad, salmon or red caviar mixed with softened cream cheese. 3 oranges 3 cups cooked rice A handful of chopped leaves enlivens a salad ⅓ cup golden raisins of milder flavored greens. When mixed with ⅓ cup chopped fresh mint leaves chives, nasturiums make a piquant omelet ½ cup chopped walnuts filling. Leaves can be added to soup and Salt and pepper to taste used to wrap rice and seafood for cooking. Mix equal parts chopped nasturtium leaves Peel and segment two oranges; set aside. and butter for a spicy spread for hot fish. Squeeze juice from remaining orange; set aside. In a large bowl, combine rice, orange Buds and seed pods can be substituted for segments, raisins, mint and walnuts. Add or- capers, used chopped or whole in a salad, ange juice; toss well. Salt and pepper to taste. or added to a sauce for lamb or fish. During World War II, when pepper was very ex- pensive and at times unobtainable, nastur- tium seeds were gathered and ground as a substitute.

50 / using herbs Pickled Nasturtium Pod Herb Mixes In a large-mouthed, 1-quart jar combine: Below are some traditional herb mixes often 1 tablespoon salt used in cooking. 6 peppercorns 2 cups wine vinegar Herbes de Used in French cooking and characterized by Add enough green nasturtium buds or seed rosemary and a hint of lavender. pods to fill the bottle. If you do not have 2 teaspoons dried rosemary enough pods to fill the bottle, what 2 teaspoons dried basil you have and add new pods each day until 1 teaspoon dried thyme the jar is full. Seal it and store it for 3 to 1 teaspoon dried savory 1 teaspoon dried tarragon 4 weeks. If desired, a garlic clove may be 1 teaspoon dried oregano added to the pickle before sealing. 1 teaspoon dried lavender 1 teaspoon dried marjoram Caponata 1 teaspoon cracked fennel seed ¼ cup olive oil are used to season roasts 3½ cups diced (¼-inch pieces) eggplant of all sorts; add them to or ciop- ¾ cup finely chopped onion pino, and include them in quiches, savory tarts and other similar dishes. ¾ cup finely chopped celery ⅓ cup chopped, pitted Kalamata olives 3 tablespoons chopped, drained nastur- Fines herbes refers to a combination of herbs tium capers that are used in Mediterranean cooking. ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon tarragon 1 tablespoon sugar or to taste 1 tablespoon chervil 3 tablespoons golden raisins 1 tablespoon parsley 1 tablespoon chives 3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted lightly 3 plum tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch dice Use with eggs (e.g., omelets and soufflés), add to homemade , sprinkle on a chick- (about 1 cup) en before roasting or use on broiled fish such as 1 tablespoon tomato paste tilapia and flounder. 2 teaspoons cocoa powder ¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Because dried parsley and dried chives don't have much flavor, it is best to use fresh herbs in French bread slices the mixture. Salt and set diced eggplant in a colander to Bouquet Garni drain for approximately 2 to 3 hours. This is a bundle of herbs tied together with a string or put in a mesh bag. There is no generic In a heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the recipe for bouquet garni, but most recipes oil over moderately high heat until it is hot include thyme and bay leaf. Depending on but not smoking. Cook the drained egg- the recipe, a bouquet garni may also include parsley, basil, chervil, rosemary, peppercorns, plant, stirring for 3 to 5 minutes or until it is savory and tarragon. tender, and transfer it to a bowl. To the skil- Bouquet garni is used to prepare soup, stock let add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and and various stews; it is cooked with the other cook the onion and the celery over moderate ingredients but is removed before the dish is heat, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the olives, served.

using herbs / 51 capers, vinegar, sugar, raisins, pine nuts, stage. Rinse a 1-quart ring mold in cold wa- tomatoes, tomato paste and cocoa. Cook ter and pour in gelatin to a depth of ½ inch. the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 5 to Chill until firm. Arrange blossoms face 10 minutes or until it is cooked through and down on the layer of chilled gelatin. Pour the celery is tender. Add the eggplant to the enough gelatin over to cover; chill till firm. skillet and heat through. Stir in the parsley; Add shredded cabbage and pour remaining let the caponata cook. Chill it, covered, over- gelatin into mold. Chill till firm. Unmold night. Season with salt and pepper. and garnish with additional nasturtium blossoms and/or leaves. Serves 4 to 6. Serve the caponata on French bread slices brushed with olive oil and grilled or fried. President Eisenhower’s Nasturtium Vegetable Soup Grilled Cutlets Piccata 1 soup bone 1½ tablespoons nasturtium capers with 1 pound beef soup meat liquid 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup lemon juice pinch of pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 clove garlic 1 pound boned, skinned turkey breast 2 onions lemon wedges ⅓ cup Cut turkey breast across the grain into slic- 1 2-pound can tomatoes es ¼ inch thick. Rinse and pat dry. Drain ½ cup fresh peas caper liquid into a shallow 8- or 9-inch- ½ cup canned corn wide pan. Stir in lemon juice, oil and ½ cup shredded cabbage pepper. Turn turkey slices in liquid to coat; 2 potatoes cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 2 stalks celery 3 carrots 2 hours. Turn slices over once. 1 turnip Place slices on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a ½ teaspoon each onion, garlic and celery solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning once, salt until meat turns white in center, about 45 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce seconds per side; brush often with mar- ½ cup chopped nasturtium stems inade. Transfer meat and sprinkle with Add to pot: the soup bone, soup meat, wa- capers; garnish with lemon wedges and ter to cover, salt, pepper, garlic and 1 onion. nasturtium blossoms. Simmer 6 hours, adding water to cover Nasturtium Aspic meat. Strain; reserve meat. Cool; remove fat. Reheat; add barley. Cook, stirring, 15 1 package lemon-flavored gelatin minutes. Add meat pieces, tomatoes, peas, 1 cup finely shredded green cabbage corn and cabbage. Dice and add potatoes, 1 dozen nasturtium blossoms celery, 1 onion, carrots and turnip. Cook Pinch out of washed nasturtium until tender. Add the onion, garlic and blossoms and reserve blossoms. Prepare celery salts, Worcestershire sauce and the gelatin according to package directions and nasturtium stems; cook 5 minutes more. refrigerate until cooled to a thick, syrupy Serves 6 to 8.

52 / using herbs oregano roasting or a whole fish along with lemon or lime slices and onion. Stir chopped, fresh Oregano is a robust, oregano into steamed cabbage with some strong herb and is fresh lemon juice and unsalted butter. For best used sparingly moist and tasty pork chops, coat with and with strongly germ, sprinkle with oregano and bake. flavored foods and long-cooking dishes. Baked Cheese Flavor combines well with 1 pound plus 2 ounces Kasseri cheese garlic, thyme, parsley and olive ½ cup fresh lemon juice oil. Oregano is commonly used 2 teaspoons minced garlic in tomato sauce, where it exhib- 2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano or ¾ its a hot, peppery flavor. It also enhances teaspoons dried cheese and egg combinations, including 4 teaspoons clarified butter omelets, frittatas, quiches and savory flans. buttered toast as an accompaniment

A traditional Mexican and Middle Eastern Chop the Kasseri cheese coarsely and technique is to toast oregano in a dry skillet divide among 4 individual gratin dishes, before using. Toasting yields a rich flavor about 6 inches wide. Top it with the lemon and releases the true taste. juice, garlic, oregano and butter, and bake it in a preheated 400°F oven for 7 to 10 Oregano adds dimension to yeast breads, minutes or until it is melted and bubbling. marinated vegetables, roasted bell peppers, Serve the cheese with the buttered toast. , roasted and stewed beef, pork, Serves 4 as a first course. poultry and , onions, black beans, , eggplant and shellfish. By itself, it Black Beans with Roasted Red Peppers adds zip to almost any buttered vegetable. and Oregano Simple ways to use oregano: Pair with 1 cup dried black beans cilantro in guacamole; use in cooked or 3 whole cloves uncooked salsas or in stuffing for large 1 large onion, peeled squashes. It is excellent in vegetable salads 2 cloves garlic, peeled of squash, corn and jicama. Add to meat- 1 carrot loaf and sprinkle generously over beef, 1 dried bay leaf lamb or pork before roasting. Use in the 2 stalks celery barbecue as a smoke producer, as a barbe- 5 to 6 sprigs fresh parsley, tied with string cue brush and in marinades. 3 cups chicken stock 2 tablespoons olive oil Oregano is an excellent salt replacement 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar for vegetables, chicken, eggplant, summer 1½ tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh squash, peas, baked russet potatoes or oregano, divided sweet potatoes, and tomatoes. ½ cup sour cream 1 large, sweet red pepper, roasted and cut Tender whole stems can be used to stuff the into ½-inch strips cavity of a chicken, turkey or duck before

using herbs / 53 Soak beans in 3 to 4 cups water overnight, fish, potatoes and breads, in Hollandaise then drain and rinse. Put beans into a and béarnaise sauces and as a garnish — 5-quart Dutch oven. Insert cloves into tuck in, sprinkle on, roll in. When using in onion and add to beans along with garlic, long-cooking soups and stews, add stems carrot, bay leaf, celery and parsley. Add first and chopped leaves last. If parsley is chicken stock and bring to a boil; cover, left in a sauce too long, the sauce will turn lower heat and simmer for 1½ hours or green. until tender. During the last 20 minutes of cooking, remove cover and check on Ricotta and Parsley Puffs the amount of liquid. If there is too much, 8 ounces puff pastry keep the cover off for the remainder of the 1 cup ricotta cheese cooking time. If there is too little, add a bit 1 cup minced parsley of boiling water. When beans are cooked, 1 clove garlic, minced most of the liquid should be absorbed. 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese black pepper Remove all the vegetables and the bay leaf and discard. Add olive oil and vinegar and Combine all the ingredients for the filling. stir well. Add 1 tablespoon of the oregano. Cut into 3-inch circles. Place a teaspoon of Spoon beans onto a warm serving platter the filling on half the circle and moisten the and add 2 dollops of sour cream; sprinkle edges with a pastry brush dipped in water. with remaining oregano and lay strips of Fold over the other half of the pastry to roasted pepper over the top. form a semicircle. Press the edges to seal and brush with an egg wash if desired. Bake The Cubans add a few tablespoons of dark in a preheated oven at 425°F for 15 to 20 rum to the black beans. minutes, or until golden.

The Brazilians mash half the beans with the (Parsley and Mint Salad) garlic to form a sauce for the rest. 1 cup cracked wheat boiling water parsley ½ cup finely chopped, fresh mint Parsley will in some way grace every meal 1½ cups finely chopped parsley of the day and every course except . 1 cup finely chopped onion or It has a positive and intense flavor and it is ¾ cup peeled, chopped tomatoes delicious when used in large quantities as ¾ cup olive oil a pronounced seasoning and for added nu- 1 cup lemon juice trition, flavor and color. For example, blend salt and freshly ground black pepper to 2 cups of roughly chopped parsley into 4 taste cups of your favorite potato soup. Place the cracked wheat in a mixing bowl Parsley is one of the fines herbes. Use it in and add boiling water to barely cover. Let a bouquet garni, court bouillon, , stand 30 minutes or until all the liquid is stuffings and marinades, as a barbecue absorbed. The wheat should become tender brush or an addition to salads and soups, in yet still be somewhat firm to the bite. If the fresh herb pasta and butter, on vegetables, wheat is too dry, add a little more boiling

54 / using herbs water. If excessive water is added, it may be even when cooked. Rub leaves on roast necessary to drain the wheat and press it. beef, lamb, pork, veal and chicken before cooking or lay branches or sprigs on top Let the wheat become thoroughly cool, of roasts and vegetables while they cook, then mix with the remaining ingredients. or cut slits in meat and insert garlic and If desired, garnish with additional chopped rosemary slivers before roasting. Be sure to tomatoes. Serve with romaine leaves. remove rosemary before serving.

Sauce If used in cooking, fresh rosemary should Thicken a simple oil and lemon juice dress- be minced; dried rosemary should be ing with mashed, hard-boiled egg and plen- crumbled or ground to a powder. ty of minced parsley. Serve with cold meats or mild vegetables, or spoon into soups. For barbecuing, rosemary may be used as a basting brush or a smoke producer or Baked Halibut in marinades. It is good in bean, pea and Place 1½ pounds halibut in baking dish mushroom soups, sauces or marinades, with ¼ inch water. Scatter over it onion salt stuffing, , meatloaf, casseroles, or chopped onions. Salt to taste. Spread sausage, baked goods and , a thin layer of softened butter over fish. vinegars, and sorbets. Finely Cover with ⅓ cup chopped parsley. On top minced rosemary mixed with butter can be of this, sprinkle 1 tablespoon each corn- used on grilled fish or chicken, vegetables, meal and fine, dry bread crumbs. Bake in new potatoes, beans, peas, spinach and preheated 350°F oven 30 to 40 minutes or zucchini. until fish flakes easily. Baked this way, fish Rosemary improves the flavor of fruits will never dry out. by enhancing sweetness without sugar. It can be a substitute for mint in mint jelly recipes and used on roast meat and poultry. 2 cups chopped flat-leaf parsley Rosemary plants make a charming bonsai 2 tablespoons grated lemon peel or topiary. 6 garlic cloves, minced Pizza with Grapes Combine all ingredients. pizza dough Gremolata is used by Italian chefs for 2 tablespoons olive oil stuffing fish, stirring into soups and stews 2 cups (about 11 ounces) red seedless and for topping osso bucco; French chefs grapes, rinsed and patted dry use it for coating a rack of lamb or topping 2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dry a cassoulet. Try tucking it under the skin of rosemary leaves a whole chicken before roasting. 2 tablespoons sugar salt (optional) rosemary Rub a 10- by 15-inch pan with 1 tablespoon Rosemary is one of the more potent herbs, olive oil. On a floured board, roll dough so it should be used with restraint for into a rectangle about ½ inch thick. Fold best effect. The leaves are tough to chew,

using herbs / 55 rectangle over to support, and transfer to Cool completely before serving. Store in an pan. If dough is too elastic, let it rest about airtight container. Recrisp in a 400°F oven 5 minutes, then continue. Brush dough for 5 minutes. Any leftover nuts will add a with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Let stand, delicious touch to tossed green salads. uncovered, in a warm place until slightly puffy, about 15 minutes. Evenly sprinkle Pork Loin with Roasted Bell Peppers and grapes, rosemary and sugar over dough. Tomatoes Lightly sprinkle with salt if desired. 1 pound red, green and/or yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1-inch- Bake on the bottom rack of a 450°F oven wide strips until well browned and crusty, 25 to 35 2 cups cherry tomatoes minutes. Serve warm or cool. Makes 12 to 14 large garlic cloves, peeled 16 servings. 2 tablespoons olive oil Pizza dough: In a large bowl, sprinkle 1 3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 package active dry yeast over 1½ cups teaspoon dried, crumbled rosemary 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel warm water (110°F) and let stand for 5 ½ teaspoon salt minutes to soften. Stir in ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add 2½ cups 1 (1¾-pound) boneless pork loin roast, all-purpose flour; mix to blend. Beat with trimmed and tied an electric mixer until dough is elastic and 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice stretchy, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 1⅓ cups toasted French bread slices more flour. Scrape dough onto a floured board and knead until smooth and springy, Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine bell 5 to 10 minutes. Place dough in an oiled peppers, tomatoes and garlic in large bowl. bowl; turn over to oil top. Cover bowl with Add 1½ tablespoons olive oil, 1½ tea- plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until spoons rosemary, 1 teaspoon lemon peel, ¼ doubled, about 45 minutes. Punch dough teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Toss down and knead lightly on a floured board. well.

Rosemary Roasted Walnuts Set pork in a large, heavy roasting pan. Rub ¼ cup unsalted butter with remaining 1½ teaspoons rosemary, 1 1 tablespoon dried rosemary, crumbled teaspoon lemon peel, ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Drizzle with remain- ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper ing ½ teaspoon oil. Spoon vegetables 2 cups walnut halves (8 ounces) around pork. Roast 30 minutes. Turn pork and gently stir vegetables. Cook pork 30 Position rack in center of oven and preheat minutes more for medium. Sprinkle lemon oven to 400°F. Combine butter, rosemary, juice over pork and vegetables. Let stand 5 salt and cayenne and heat until butter minutes. Cut pork into ⅛-inch-thick slices. is melted. Add walnuts and toss to coat. Overlap down center of platter. Spoon veg- Spread out on a foil-lined jelly roll pan etables and juices around and over pork. and bake until walnuts are lightly roasted, Serve, passing French bread separately. stirring every 3 minutes for 6 to 9 minutes. Spread bread with roasted garlic. Serves 6.

56 / using herbs Rosemary Squares Sage is compatible with game, roast duck, 2 eggs goose, pork and veal and is useful in 1 cup brown sugar counteracting their richness; it aids in the 2 teaspoons vanilla digestibility of heavy, greasy meat, but too 1 cup flour much sage can give people indigestion. Slip ½ teaspoon salt leaves under the skin of turkey or chicken 1 teaspoon baking powder before roasting. Lay fresh leaves on a pork ½ teaspoon dried rosemary roast before cooking, or make slits in a 1 cup candied fruit and raisins roast and insert fresh leaves. Mince leaves ⅔ cup chopped pecans or sunflower seeds and use in breading for . Deep fry sprigs and use as garnish for roast Beat eggs vigorously. Add sugar gradual- meats. Crumble into fish chowders. Try on ly. Add the vanilla. Mix flour, salt, baking hot vegetables, including beans, tomatoes, powder and rosemary. Fold in nuts and summer squash and cold, sliced tomatoes. fruit. Bake in an 8-inch-square pan that has Steep leaves for tea; a bit of lemon or or- been greased and dusted with flour. Bake ange rind adds to the flavor. at 350°F for 30 minutes. Remove from pan while still warm and cut into bars. Sage After-Dinner Mints For a unique after-dinner mint, brush sage pasteurized egg white diluted with a bit The flavor of sage is lemony, camphorlike of water over fresh sage leaves. Sprinkle and pleasantly bitter. Fresh sage is delicate, powdered sugar lightly over the leaves; let not as pungent as dried and more aromatic. dry. Because sage is a herb, Dried sage should be used discreetly, as it these mints will also relieve gas and other is strong and apt to override other flavor- intestinal distress. ings. Add a little at a time — it is a flavor Brown Rice and Walnut Casserole you can’t subtract. Parsley added in large measure will take the edge off its pungency. 4 cups cooked brown rice Substitute ¼ teaspoon dried for 1 teaspoon 1 cup whole grain bread crumbs fresh sage. 1 cup coarsely chopped parsley 2 eggs, lightly beaten Sage adds flavor to broiled meats and fish, 1½ cups chopped walnuts or other nuts broiled or scalloped tomatoes, stews, soups 1 onion and casseroles. 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese It is indispensable to good pork sausage ½ cup grated sharp cheddar cheese and makes a delicious spread when com- 2 cloves finely minced garlic bined with cheese. Combined with other ¼ cup vegetable stock or water herbs it is a fine addition to a bouquet 6–8 sage leaves, finely chopped or ½ garni for the court bouillon in which you teaspoon crumbled, dried sage cook shrimp or fish or the liquid you use to ½ teaspoon freshly ground celery seed make stews and corned beef. Either dried ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper or fresh, sage is good in stuffing. salt to taste

using herbs / 57 topping: ¼ cup grated sharp cheddar half of the sauce and put in a blender. Add cheese and ¼ cup whole grain bread cream to blender and process until smooth. crumbs Put this mixture into another saucepan and simmer until it has thickened slightly Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine rice, bread (about 5 minutes). Keep remaining chunky crumbs, parsley, eggs and nuts in a large tomato sauce warm. bowl. Finely chop the onion and soften it in the olive oil over medium-low heat for Roll out the fresh pasta dough on a lightly about 5 minutes. Mix the onion into the floured surface as thin as possible, or use rice. Stir in the and the garlic. Toss a machine. Cut into desired shape. Drop the mixture with the stock, sage, celery into boiling salted water and cook for 3 to seed and cayenne. Salt lightly and turn the 5 minutes or until tender but still slightly mixture into an oiled casserole. firm.

Mix the grated cheddar with bread crumbs Spoon the creamy sauce onto 4 serving and spread over the casserole. Bake for 35 plates. Drain pasta and place a single to 40 minutes, until the casserole is a rich portion of fresh pasta on each plate. Divide golden brown. Serves 4 as a main course or chunky tomato sauce into 4 equal portions. 8 as a side dish. Mound ¼ of the chunky tomato sauce in center of each individual serving of pasta. Sage and Cheddar Biscuits Garnish with fresh sage leaves. Serves 4. Follow a standard recipe for baking pow- der biscuits using 2 cups flour. Blend in Sage Potato Crepes ½ cup grated firm cheddar cheese and 2 5 large potatoes, peeled tablespoons fresh sage leaves with the flour ½ cup onion, grated before cutting in the shortening. 1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves, chopped 8 tablespoons walnut oil Fresh Pasta with Two Tomato Sauces salt and freshly ground pepper to taste ½ recipe of your favorite fresh pasta reci- pe/or store bought fresh pasta Using a grater with large holes, grate ½ cup butter potatoes into a basin of cold water. Drain 1 onion, minced the potatoes, add the onion and mix well. 6 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and Squeeze any excess water from this mixture. chopped Add salt, pepper and sage and mix all of 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves the ingredients. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil 1 teaspoon salt in a nonstick, 6-inch crepe pan. When the ¼ teaspoon white pepper oil is smoking slightly, add ¾ cup of the 1 cup cream potato batter. Flatten the round if it is puffy and cook about 3 minutes or until lightly Melt butter and sauté onion in it for 5 browned. Turn the crepe to the other side minutes or until soft but not brown. Add to brown it, then flip it a few more times to tomatoes, sage, salt and pepper. Cover and make certain it cooks through. Repeat with simmer until tomatoes are soft but not the remaining batter. Place the finished pan- disintegrated (about 15 minutes). Remove cakes on a holding platter in a warm oven.

58 / using herbs Decorate with a few random sage leaves Savory is known as the “bean herb.” It and serve hot with homemade applesauce, picks up the flavor especially well of lighter chilled sour cream or Russian caviar. beans, such as fava beans, chick peas, navy beans and cannelli beans, but it is also savory effective with darker beans, such as black beans, lentils and pinto beans. Savory is related to Savory is an excellent primary herb to use rosemary in forcemeats such as meatballs, meatloaf and thyme. and stuffing made with any combination of There are pork, veal and beef. Use in vegetable soups 30 varieties of and stews, bouquet garni, fines herbes, savory, of which breading mixtures, butter and vinegars and summer and winter in barbecue as a smoke producer, as a bast- are the most popu- ing brush and in marinades. Add savory lar. The savories are to mayonnaise and serve as an accompani- very good “blending ment to poached fish. Make a marinade for herbs,” which enhance fish by combining fresh savory with garlic, the flavors of other herbs. Summer savory bay and lemon juice. is fruity with hints of basil and lavender and is most reminiscent of thyme and mar- , because of its resinous and joram. Winter savory has a coarser aroma peppery bite, is good with roast duck and and the flavor is resinous and peppery. game. Fresh summer savory is good in salad dressings. The small pink flowers and Savory is a good salt substitute and acts on tender leaves can garnish any number of a dish as a seasoning agent much the same salads from sliced tomatoes to potato salad. way salt does. It blends well with parsley, bay, basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary Zucchini with Savory and thyme without changing the of a Cut zucchini lengthwise in ¼-inch slices; bouquet garni. It can strengthen mild herbs dip in beaten egg and bread crumbs mixed and provide a softening effect on more ro- with savory. Sauté until golden in marga- bust herbs. Savory enhances a variety of veg- rine or butter. etables: fresh green beans, potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, winter squash and broccoli, and Black and White Bean Soup with Savory it teams well with corn in soups, sautés, pud- 1 pound small, dried black beans dings and . Mix with bread crumbs 1 pound small, dried white beans for coating fish, pork or veal. 12 medium garlic cloves 10–12 summer savory sprigs or 1½–2 Savory goes especially well with stone teaspoons crumbled, dried savory fruits. Cook pitted fruit for 15 minutes or 6 tablespoons red wine vinegar so with a simple sugar syrup, some sprigs 4 large fresh or canned jalapeno peppers of savory and a few drops of balsamic ½ cup virgin olive oil vinegar. It also goes well with apples and in salt to taste jelly, butter, applesauce and stewed apples.

using herbs / 59 garnish: 6 to 8 nasturtium flowers (op- salt and pepper tional) tender pastry (recipe follows)

Rinse beans and soak separately overnight. In a 12-inch frying pan or a 5- to 6-quart Drain, rinse well and pick over. Put the pan over medium-high heat, combine pork, beans in separate pots and cover with 3 veal or beef and onion. Stir often until meat inches of water. Simmer about 1½ hours or begins to brown and sticks to the bottom of until they are very tender. the pan. Add beef broth and cook for 18 to 20 minutes or until broth is reduced. Stir in Mince garlic and add half to each pot. Stem mashed potatoes until blended thoroughly; savory, mince it and add 4 tablespoons (or season to taste with salt and pepper. the dried savory) to the white beans. Seed the jalapenos, mince them and add to the On a floured board, roll out 2 tender pastry black beans, along with the red wine vin- pieces, each into an 11-inch round. Line egar. Add ¼ cup olive oil to each pot and each of 2 (9-inch) pie pans with a pastry simmer the soups for about 10 minutes. round. Spoon meat mixture equally into the pans. Roll out remaining 2 pastry piec- Puree each soup separately and return es, each into a 10-inch round. Cover each them to their separate pots. Cook over low pie with a round of pastry, trim flush with heat for about 5 minutes. The soups should rims and press edges with a fork to seal. be rather thin; add a little water if neces- Prick top in several places. Bake and serve sary. Adjust the seasoning. as directed.

To serve, ladle about ½ cup black bean To store baked pies, wrap and freeze up soup in a warm, shallow soup bowl. Care- to 1 month; thaw in the refrigerator, then fully ladle ½ cup white bean soup into the reheat. Makes 2 pies; each serves 8. center of the bowl. Fill 6 to 8 bowls and garnish each with a nasturtium blossom. Tender pastry: Stir together 4 cups all-pur- Serves 6 to 8. pose flour, ½ teaspoon salt and 2 tea- spoons sugar. With your fingers, rub 1 Tourtiere cup solid shortening and ⅓ cup butter or 1¼ pounds ground lean, boneless pork margarine into flour until mixture forms butt or shoulder coarse crumbs. With a fork, stir in 1 large 1¼ pounds ground veal or beef egg (beaten), 1 teaspoon distilled vinegar 1 large onion, chopped and 3 tablespoons cold water until dough 1 teaspoon each dry savory leaves and is evenly moistened and holds together. dry thyme leaves Gather into a ball and divide into 4 pieces; ¼ teaspoon each dry mustard and wrap each portion in plastic wrap and chill ground cinnamon at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon minced parsley To bake pies. If desired, roll out remain- 1 cup regular-strength beef broth ing pastry scraps and cut into decorative 2 medium-sized cooked russet potatoes shapes; lay on top of the pies. Gently brush (about ½ pound each), peeled and each pie top with 1 teaspoon milk. Bake on mashed lowest rack of a 425°F oven until tops are

60 / using herbs golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve hot. Sorrel Sauce Or cool, then cover and chill until next day. 1 tablespoon butter To reheat, place in a 350°F oven until pies 4 are hot in center, 25 to 35 minutes. ¾ cup dry white wine ½ cup sorrel 16 young sorrel leaves, cut in very thin Sorrel has been characterized as a sour-leaf strips version of spinach. Leaves have a mildly ¾ cup crème fraiche sour, lemony taste Melt butter in a skillet and sauté shallots. Use as a substitute for spinach, cooking it Add wine to deglaze the pan. Add ver- the same way you would spinach. Combine mouth, sorrel and crème fraiche. Cook un- and cook with spinach, cabbage, water- til sauce thickens slightly. Serve with grilled cress, mustard greens and greens; the fish or chicken. distinctive sour taste adds a different note. Quick It is a perfect foil for light and delicate 3 tablespoons butter or margarine foods, such as eggs, cream, fish, chicken 1 medium onion, chopped and veal. Try adding a leaf to any cream 1 medium potato, peeled and diced soup during last few minutes of cooking 2 (14-ounce) cans regular-strength chick- for a unique flavor or stirring it into your en broth favorite gazpacho before chilling. Small 4 cups finely shredded sorrel quantities may be included in tossed salads ⅓ cup whipping cream and coleslaw, but reduce vinegar or lemon salt and pepper to taste juice in the dressing. Use on hot or cold meat and cheese sandwiches, hamburgers, sour cream tacos and tostadas. Melt the butter or margarine in a 4-quart Simple ways to use sorrel: Mince into pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cream cheese for with or tuck it cook, stirring often, until it is limp. Stir in into a luncheon omelet with chopped green the potato and the 2 cans of chicken broth. onion and sautéed mushrooms. Chop Cover and simmer 20 minutes or until po- finely with lovage and add to sour cream or tato mashes easily. Stir in the finely shred- thick yogurt to dress baked potatoes. Wrap ded sorrel and cook 2 minutes longer. In a jumbo sea scallops with large sorrel leaves, blender, whirl the mixture, a small amount steam cook and serve with a butter sauce. at a time, until smooth. Return to heat, stir in the whipping cream and salt and pep- Leaves can be frozen like greens or as sorrel per to taste; heat through. Ladle into small soup. If adding egg yolks or cream, leave bowls; dust with ground nutmeg. (Or cover them out when freezing; add after the soup and chill well; serve cold with a dollop of base is thawed. Since sorrel turns brown- sour cream.) Makes about 5 cups. ish when cooked, it looks more appetizing when mixed with greens that hold their color.

using herbs / 61 Even Quicker Sorrel Soup over a salad. It goes well with carrots, pars- Sauté a handful of shredded sorrel in butter nips, potatoes, turnips, Brussels sprouts, until limp and add to a cup of cream of cabbage, cream soups and sauces, fish, fruit chicken instant soup. soups, stewed fruit, fruit salads, pies and tarts. Mix with mint and lemon balm for Sorrel Puree citrus-sweet herb tea.

1 pound fresh sorrel leaves Use the unripe, spicy, green seeds of sweet ½ cup heavy cream cicely in cookies, candy, syrups, cakes, 2 tablespoons butter and herb mixtures. Mature seeds 2 eggs, slightly beaten can be used as substitute for caraway in Carefully wash and dry sorrel. Remove and baking. discard the stems and the rib. Over medi- Steam or simmer roots and puree like a um heat, without additional liquid, heat . The roots can also be eaten raw. the sorrel just until it wilts. Remove, drain off any liquid and chop finely. In a medi- um-sized saucepan, combine the butter, sweet woodruff the wilted sorrel, the cream and the eggs, The name is derived from the French word cooking just until the mixture thickens. for wheel and is descriptive of the way the Do not overcook or the sorrel will lose its leaves radiate from the stem like the spokes sharp, fresh flavor. Use as is, warm or cold, of the wheel from an axle. Sweet woodruff as a bed of green for fillet of sole or salmon is a plant of almost overpowering sweetness or as a sauce over poached or hard-cooked and therefore has limited uses. The FDA eggs or veal scallops. The puree is also a considers sweet woodruff safe only for use fine filling for an omelet or tart, or it can be in alcoholic beverages. CAUTION! Large folded into any soufflé base. With a touch quantities have been reported to cause of French tarragon mustard, it takes on vomiting and dizziness. even more of a tang. Both fresh and dried leaves and flowers can sweet cicely be used to flavor wines and brandy. To lend a subtle, grassy, vanilla bouquet to white Sweet cicely has been used for centuries in wine, place fresh sprigs in the bottle for a the kitchen. It is said to contain as much as day or so. To make sweet woodruff brandy, 40 percent sugar, so use it in recipes where put branches of sweet woodruff into a bot- a sweet touch is needed. Add to your favor- tle and fill with brandy. Allow it to steep for ite rhubarb pie, using ¼ cup finely minced at least 1 month to develop flavor. leaves for a 9-inch pie. To greet the spring at May Day celebra- When cooking with fruit, sweet cicely cuts tions, Germans put sprigs of sweet wood- the natural acidity, and the amount of sugar ruff into new wine and drink it as a tonic. can be reduced. To make the traditional German May bowl, allow fresh sprigs of the herb to stand in Use it fresh as a garnish for salads or mince Rhine wine overnight, then float fresh with basil, lovage and parsley to sprinkle strawberries in the bowl before serving.

62 / using herbs Adding the herb to a young wine has an- An omelet with chopped tarragon is spe- other purpose — it improves the taste of an cial, as are scrambled eggs, and it is won- otherwise thin and harsh-tasting wine. derful snipped over buttered new potatoes. Blended with melted butter, it adds zest to Put the dried leaves in to hang in bland vegetables, broiled meats, poultry or closets and put among linens and clothing fish. It enhances salads made of crabmeat, to keep away and to give them a shrimp, lobster or potatoes, and stuffed fresh smell. mushrooms, and it is tasty with leafy salads Sweet Woodruff Banana Cream Pie and most vegetables. Tarragon makes fla- vorful cream sauces and is indispensable to Use your favorite banana cream pie reci- and béarnaise sauce. pe. Marinate the bananas in ⅓ cup sweet woodruff brandy while you make the Use a sprig to garnish aspics or sprinkle custard for the pie. Make the custard using chopped tarragon on canapés, hors d’oeu- ⅓ cup less cream. Drain the bananas and vres and open-faced sandwiches. stir the liquid into the custard. Follow your recipe directions for assembling the pie. When making tarragon vinegar, use a delicate flavored vinegar so as not to stifle tarragon tarragon’s relatively light flavor. Leaves from vinegar can be used as fresh tarragon Tarragon is one of the most widely used or as garnishes. herbs. It does not conceal but helps to bring out the flavor of the dish to which Tarragon Beets it is added. Don’t add with a heavy hand; 3 pounds beets without tops less is better. Avoid bringing out its bitter ⅓ cup tarragon vinegar side by cooking too long. It tastes best on 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarra- its own or with classic fines herbes. Strong gon or 1½ teaspoons dried aromatics (rosemary, sage and thyme) do 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into not harmonize well with it. pieces 2 tablespoons drained capers Fresh tarragon is more salt and freshly ground pepper subtle than dried, so you may need to use Place the beets in a large saucepan with much larger water to cover and bring to a boil over quantities. It is moderately high heat. Cook until tender best known for when pierced with a fork, 30 to 40 min- use in seafood utes (depending on the size of the beets). and chicken. Alternatively, wrap the beets in aluminum When used with foil and bake in a 400°F oven for about 1¼ fish, it seems to hours, until tender. Peel the beets and cut remove most of into 1-inch pieces. the fishy taste. Try it with mayonnaise on cold In a large saucepan, combine ¼ cup water salmon. with the vinegar and tarragon and bring

using herbs / 63 to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat Combine wine and tarragon in a 1- to to moderate and simmer for 3 minutes. 2-quart pan. (If using dry tarragon leaves, Add the butter and stir until melted. Add heat to steaming; let stand 30 minutes.) the beets and cook, stirring, until heated Add sugar and gently boil mixture until it through, about 8 minutes. Remove from reaches 220°F on a candy thermometer. the heat, stir in the capers and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss and transfer Place egg yolks in the top of a double to a warmed serving dish; serve hot. boiler. Gradually pour hot syrup into yolks, beating constantly with a portable No- mixer or rotary beater. Set over simmering ⅓ cup egg substitute water and continue cooking and beating 2 tablespoons lemon juice constantly until mixture holds soft peaks, dash ground red pepper about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; beat ½ cup butter-flavored margarine over cold water until cool. Stir in lemon crushed dried or fresh tarragon, minced peel and juice. finely (to taste) Whip cream until stiff peaks form; fold into Heat margarine and tarragon in a small egg yolk mixture just until blended. Cover saucepan until hot. and freeze until firm, at least 6 hours or as long as 1 month. In an electric blender, combine egg substi- tute, lemon juice and red pepper. Blend at Serve the mousse in small scoops with medium speed just until mixed. Without sweetened strawberries. Serves 6 to 10. turning off blender, pour in hot margarine Tarragon Wafers in a steady stream. Continue blending until oil is completely incorporated and mixture ½ cup butter is smooth and thick. Mixture may be held 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed in the top of a double boiler over hot (not 1 teaspoon vanilla boiling) water for up to 10 minutes before 1 egg serving. Serve with vegetables, chicken, fish ½ cup toasted seeds or seafood. ½ cup crushed pecans 1½ teaspoons finely minced tarragon or Frozen Tarragon Mousse with crushed, dry tarragon Strawberries ¾ cup sifted all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon baking powder ¾ cup dry white wine ¼ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or 1½ tablespoons dry tarragon Cream butter, sugar and vanilla. Beat in 1 cup sugar egg and stir in sesame seeds, pecans and 6 egg yolks tarragon. Stir dry ingredients together and ¼ teaspoon grated lemon peel add to mixture. Mix well. Drop in small 1 tablespoon lemon juice mounds about 3 inches apart on a greased 1 cup whipping cream baking sheet. Bake at 375°F for 8 to 10 min- 1 pint strawberries, halved and sweet- utes. Cool a minute before removing from ened to taste sheet. Makes 4 dozen crisp wafers.

64 / using herbs thyme bouquet garni; in Spanish cooking it is used in soups, pork dishes and tapas; and Thyme has a strong flavor and should be in Mexican, Creole and Cajun cooking it used sparingly for best flavor. “Pinch of balances incendiary spices. thyme” is good phrase to remember. It retains its flavor during cooking and its Use thyme in butter over vegetables, in- potent flavor and aroma when dried. It cluding potatoes, and on broiled meats and comes in a multitude of flavors and is most fish to add a warm, spicy flavor. often used as a background flavor. More and more cooks are discovering that it Thyme is good with egg dishes and is wonderful used alone when preparing cheese sauces as well as roast meats stews, roasts or vegetables. Include thyme and game. It enhances most in a bouquet garni for soups, stews, sauces vegetables, especially car- or gravies. rots, squash, potatoes, onions, celery and Thyme has a place in many international tomatoes. Add ½ . In Mediterranean it is a teaspoon of natural seasoning for cheese and is thyme to each used in olive oil, tomatoes and garlic; in cup of hot Provencal cuisine, it is used in sauces; in milk used for European kitchens, it is part of a classic beating mashed

Using herbs to season vegetables

Asparagus tarragon Lima beans marjoram, oregano, sage, savory or tarragon Snap beans basil, dill, marjoram, oregano or thyme Beets allspice, bay leaves, cloves, dill, ginger or thyme Broccoli dill or tarragon Brussels sprouts basil, dill or tarragon Cabbage dill, nutmeg Carrots allspice, bay leaves, dill, ginger, marjoram, nutmeg or thyme Cucumbers basil, dill or tarragon Eggplant marjoram or oregano Onions nutmeg, oregano, sage or thyme Peas basil, dill, oregano, rosemary or sage Potatoes basil, bay leaves, dill, chives, oregano or thyme Spinach basil, marjoram, nutmeg or oregano Squash allspice, basil, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mustard, nutmeg or rosemary Sweet potatoes allspice, cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg Tomatoes basil, bay leaves, oregano, sage or thyme Green salads basil, chives or dill

using herbs / 65 potatoes. Keep milk warm for 15 minutes to Make vinaigrette: Combine ingredients in brew the herb, then strain into potatoes and the jar of a blender and whirl until creamy. beat. It gives a plumlike fragrance and sub- In a large bowl combine lettuce greens. Add tle flavor to rice and wheat. Chopped fresh half of vinaigrette and toss to coat. Add leaves can be sprinkled on hot, thick soups. more dressing as needed. Serve on individ- ual chilled plates. Makes 6 servings. The traditional flavor of clam and fish chowders comes from thyme. It is also Thyme good in other seafood dishes. 6 cups chicken stock or canned chicken Thyme is an ingredient in stuffing for broth poultry or breast of lamb. For variation, use 1½ pounds carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces lemon thyme in chicken dressing. 1 onion, minced ¾ stick unsalted butter Thyme is also used as a remedy for head- ½ cup heavy cream ache: steep 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 1½ tablespoons fresh thyme, minced, or in a cup of boiling water. For a hangover, 1½ teaspoons dried thyme add a teaspoon of honey and a pinch of nutmeg, freshly grated salt; for an exotic bath, toss a handful of salt and pepper to taste fresh leaves into your tub. In a large sauce pan combine the chicken Baby with Ginger-Thyme stock or canned chicken broth and the car- Vinaigrette rots; bring the stock to a boil and simmer the carrots, covered, for 20 minutes or until For the salad: they are tender. In a food processor fitted Fresh garden or a mixture of dif- with the steel blade or in a blender, puree ferent baby lettuces the mixture in batches. In a small skillet, For the vinaigrette: cook the onion in the unsalted butter over 1-inch cube fresh ginger, peeled and moderate heat, stirring, for 3 minutes grated or until softened. Add the onion to the 1 tablespoon chopped fresh lemon thyme saucepan along with the heavy cream, the ¼ cup olive oil thyme and nutmeg; salt and pepper to taste. 2 tablespoons rice vinegar Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for 5 1 tablespoon lemon juice minutes. Let the soup stand, covered, for ½ teaspoon Dijon-style mustard 5 minutes to let the flavors blend. Ladle it 1 teaspoon chopped parsley into heated bowls and garnish each serving ½ teaspoon minced shallot with minced fresh thyme. Serves 4 to 6. ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Wash and pat dry baby lettuces, being careful not to crush leaves. Refrigerate until ready to assemble salad.

66 / using herbs recipe index appetizers desserts An Elegant Appetizer 46 Frozen Tarragon Mousse with Baked Kasseri Cheese 53 Strawberries 64 Caponata 51 Sage After-Dinner Mints 57 Rosemary Roasted Walnuts 56 dips/butters beverages Herbed Cucumber Dip with Borage Balmy Sunset 45 Blossoms 37 Borage and Yogurt Drink 37 Marigold Cheese Dip 38 Herbfarm Haymaker's Switchel 25 Chervil Butter 40 Strawberry Smoothie 50 eggs breads/pancakes/pastries Eggs Marigold 38 Herbed Gougeres 47 Lemon Verbena Ricotta Pancakes 45 Pizza with Grapes 55 fish/seafood Ricotta and Parsley Puffs 54 Alaska Salmon in the Snow 41 Sage and Cheddar Biscuits 58 Baked Halibut 55 Sage Potato Crepes 58 Foiled Baked Fish 49 Shrimp with Dill Sauce 43 Basic Basil Pesto 23 fruit Gremolata 55 Melon Steeped in Basil and Mint 36 Lemon Balm Mayonnaise 44 Lemon-Dill Mustard 27 Quick Herb Mustard 27 Tarragon and Green Peppercorn honeys/syrups Mustard 26 Basic Herb Honey 27 Basic Herb Syrup 27 cookies Anise Hyssop and Almond lamb Butter Cookies 31 Moroccan Lamb Stew 42 Rosemary Squares 57 Tarragon Wafers 64

recipe index / 67 pasta/grains/legumes sauces Black Beans with Roasted Red Basil, Garlic and Cheese Sauce 34 Peppers and Oregano 53 Cucumber Sour Cream Sauce 44 Brown Rice and Walnut Casserole 57 Lime Basil Sauce 35 Fresh Pasta with Two Tomato Sauces 58 Low-Calorie “Sour Cream” with Chives 41 Marigold Rice 38 No-Cholesterol Hollandaise Sauce 64 Raspberry Sauce 46 Sauce Persillade 55 pickles/relishes Sorrel Sauce 61 Pickled Nasturtium Pod 51 soups pies/tarts Avgolemono (Greek Lemon Soup) 45 Black and White Bean Soup with Savory 59 Anise Hyssop Pear Tart 31 Chive Avocado Soup 40 Sweet Woodruff Banana Cream Pie 63 Classic Gazpacho 42 Cold Cucumber Soup with Borage Flowers 37 pork Even Quicker Sorrel Soup 62 Barb's Boosha's Polish Sausage 48 Leek and Chervil Soup 39 Pork Loin with Roasted Bell Peppers Marigold Fish Chowder 38 and Tomatoes 56 President Eisenhower's Nasturtium Tourtiere 60 Vegetable Soup 52 Quick Sorrel Soup 61 Thyme Carrot Soup 66 poultry Grilled Turkey Cutlets Piccata 52 Lemon Basil Chicken 35 vegetables Braised Leeks with Lime Basil Sauce 35 Cauliflower in Lemon Cream 47 salads Chervil and Potato Salad 39 Marigold Cauliflower 38 Arugula Salad with Orange Vinaigrette 33 New Potatoes with Creamy Arugula Orange Mint Rice Salad 50 Sauce 32 Baby Lettuces with Ginger-Thyme Sorrel Puree 62 Vinaigrette 66 Stir-Fried Snow Peas with Cilantro 42 Minted Fruit Salad 50 Tarragon Beets 63 Nasturtium Aspic 52 Tomatoes Stuffed with Lime Basil Sauce 35 Sweet Potato and Marjoram Salad 48 Zucchini with Savory 59 Tabbouleh (Parsley and Mint Salad) 54 Tomato Basil Sorbet 36

68 / recipe index recipe index (herbs) anise hyssop chervil Anise Hyssop and Almond Butter Chervil and Potato Salad 39 Cookies 31 Chervil Butter 40 Anise Hyssop Pear Tart 31 Leek and Chervil Soup 39 arugula chives Arugula Salad with Orange Vinaigrette 33 Alaska Salmon in the Snow 41 New Potatoes with Creamy Arugula Chive Avocado Soup 40 Sauce 32 Low-Calorie “Sour Cream” with Chives 41 basil cilantro Basic Basil Pesto 23 Classic Gazpacho 42 Basil, Garlic and Cheese Sauce 34 Moroccan Lamb Stew 42 Braised Leeks with Lime Basil Sauce 35 Stir-Fried Snow Peas with Cilantro 42 Lemon Basil Chicken 35 Lime Basil Sauce 35 Melon Steeped in Basil and Mint 36 dill Tomato Basil Sorbet 36 Cucumber Sour Cream Sauce 44 Tomatoes Stuffed with Lime Basil Sauce 35 Lemon-Dill Mustard 27 Shrimp with Dill Sauce 43 borage Borage and Yogurt Drink 37 lemon balm Cold Cucumber Soup with Borage Avgolemono (Greek Lemon Soup) 45 Flowers 37 Balmy Sunset 45 Herbed Cucumber Dip with Borage Lemon Balm Mayonnaise 44 Blossoms 37 calendula lemon verbena An Elegant Appetizer 46 Eggs Marigold 38 Lemon Verbena Ricotta Pancakes 45 Marigold Cauliflower 38 Raspberry Sauce 46 Marigold Cheese Dip 38 Marigold Fish Chowder 38 Marigold Rice 38 lovage Cauliflower in Lemon Cream 47 Herbed Gougeres 47

recipe index / 69 marjoram sage Barb's Boosha's Polish Sausage 48 Brown Rice and Walnut Casserole 57 Sweet Potato and Marjoram Salad 48 Fresh Pasta with Two Tomato Sauces 58 Sage After-Dinner Mints 57 Sage and Cheddar Biscuits 58 mexican mint marigold Sage Potato Crepes 58 Foiled Baked Fish 49 savory mint Black and White Bean Soup with Savory 59 Tourtiere 60 Minted Fruit Salad 50 Zucchini with Savory 59 Orange Mint Rice Salad 50 Strawberry Smoothie 50 sorrel nasturtium Even Quicker Sorrel Soup 62 Quick Sorrel Soup 61 Caponata 51 Sorrel Puree 62 Grilled Turkey Cutlets Piccata 52 Sorrel Sauce 61 Nasturtium Aspic 52 Pickled Nasturtium Pod 51 President Eisenhower's Nasturtium Vegetable Soup 52 sweet woodruff Sweet Woodruff Banana Cream Pie 63 oregano Baked Kasseri Cheese 53 tarragon Black Beans with Roasted Red Peppers Frozen Tarragon Mousse with and Oregano 53 Strawberries 64 No-Cholesterol Hollandaise Sauce 64 Tarragon Beets 63 parsley Tarragon and Green Peppercorn Mustard 26 Baked Halibut 55 Tarragon Wafers 64 Gremolata 55 Ricotta and Parsley Puffs 54 Sauce Persillade 55 Tabbouleh (Parsley and Mint Salad) 54 thyme Baby Lettuces with Ginger-Thyme Vinaigrette 66 rosemary Thyme Carrot Soup 66 Pizza with Grapes 55 Pork Loin with Roasted Bell Peppers and Tomatoes 56 Rosemary Roasted Walnuts 56 Rosemary Squares 57

70 / recipe index notes

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

notes / 71 ______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

72 / Notes ______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

notes / 73 ______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

______

74 / Notes marjoram mexican mint marigold mint nasturtium

oregano parsley, curly parsley, flat-leaf rosemary

sage summer savory winter savory sorrel

sweet cicily sweet woodruff tarragon thyme