COROMANDEL REGION and an aura of rugged individualism hangs like mistoverand anauraofruggedindividualismhangslike andspecialregion. thiscompact tion. Someofthemore remote are stillaccessed bygravel communitiesinthese parts roads, beingthepremierMiranda holidayspotforfeathered jetsetters andtheiradmirers. Plainswere oncemassiveHauraki swampywetlands,richwithbirdlife. remain, Pockets with trees oncetoweredkauri todosoagain.At andare thebaseofpeninsula starting to losethemselves (hopefullyonlyfiguratively) amonglarge ofuntamedbushwhere tracts have graduallygiven waytoorganic farmsandBuddhistretreats. This coasthaslongbeen arefuge foralternative lifestylers –althoughthehippycommunes worst oftheinflux,theirmuddywetlandsandstonybaysholdinglessappealformasses. are thenormelsewhere. The cutesy historicgold-miningtownsonthewestsideescape cafés cater tothechattering setinthewealthierenclaves, whilesandytoesand boardshorts itintotwoverybisects parts. distinct Gulf. andformstheeastern edgeoftheHauraki Itsdramatic,mountainousspine the nearbymetropolis),CoromandelPeninsula jutsdefiantlyintothe Pacific eastof thesideviewofahandwithitsmiddlefingerraised(perhapsaimedat abitlike Looking Region Coromandel 194 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Although relatively closetoAuckland, theCoromandeloffers easyaccesstosplendidisola- tracks,allowingtrampers Down themiddle,mountainsare crisscrossedwith walking beaches. Island’sbestwhite-sand The Marinasand eastern edgehassomeoftheNorth

„ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 07 Burning yourbuttinafreshly dugthermal Penetrating the mysticaldepthsofthedense Pigging musselsin outonsmoked Exploringhiddenislands,caves andbaysby outyourownpatchoffootprint-free Staking Travelling remote gravel roadsunderacrim- or Karangahake GorgeKarangahake bush of mandel Town from kayak sand at Far Coromandel North trees inson canopyofancientpohutukawa Beach pool inthesandsof Coromandel Town 24) or (p204) Beach Coromandel Forest Park (p201) Opito Beach (p213) (p201) ( p205), ( p203) (p210), „ ( p204) www.thecoromandel.com Otama 20) and ( p200) Coro- (p208) ( p208) Coromandel Far North Coromandel „ www.ew.govt.nz Town Whitianga Coromandel Forest Park Otama Opito Hahei Hot WaterBeach Opoutere Europeans fordecades,theHauraki (tribes) heldclaimtopockets of it,includ- known toMaori asHauraki. Various the islandsandbothsidesof thegulf,was This wholearea, includingthepeninsula, History lonelyplanet.com ernment togainaccessvaluableresources Unscrupulous dealingsbysettlers andgov- were someof thehardesthitbycolonisation. west-coast beach can be rewarding. agate, amethyst andjasper. Afossickonany in semiprecious gemstones, such asquartz, in otherplaces.Thepeninsulaisalsorich covered aroundThamesin1867andlater first rushwasshort-lived, more goldwasdis- thisCoromandel Townin1852.Although died. industry the 1930svirtuallynokauriremained andthe pel thehuge logstothecoast,were built.By Kauri water dams,which powertopro- used intothebushfortimber.to penetrate deeper the coastbecamescarceandloggers had oncethekauriaround Things gottougher atMercurywhen amillwasestablished Bay. trade wasshipbuilding, which in1832 tookoff business onthepeninsula. Alliedtothetimber to aboomingeconomy.Kauri wasbig logging ready supplyof valuable timberinitiallylead proximity toAuckland,safe anchorages and toEuropeantraders. Theregion’sbe exposed occupation. continuous found, pointingtoaround1000years of ofand evidence moa-huntinghave been and earliermigrations.Polynesianartefacts tribes andothers descendedfromTe Arawa ing the Despite successful interactions with Gold wasfirst discovered inNZnear The Hauraki ing tochange. much more attention, although thisisstart- logging havemining andkauri beengiven the culture. Pioneer pursuits suchasgold- toengagewithoffer manyopportunities tory (see above ), theCoromandel doesn’t Although ithasalongandrichMaori his- MAORI NZ: COROMANDEL REGION Water Beach ( p208 ). Opito Beach( p204 ( ), Hahei p208 ( ) andHot p209 ). There are othersatTe Puru ( p200 around, withthemost accessiblebeingPaku ), Historic Historic Pare Hauraki pa (fortified village)sites are (fortified dotted Coromandel Region iwi were some of thefirst to branch of theTainui iwi iwi

The vast mud flat is teeming withaquaticThe vast mudflatisteeming studying waders orshore birdsallyearround. be time might considered impolite. bird-watching –butdoing both atthesame are splashing aroundthethermalpoolsand from Auckland.Thetworeasons tocomehere swampy Firthof Thames,justanhour’sdrive It’s apretty onthe nameforasettlement Island toCoromandelTown(see p203 ). tiful ferry ridefromAucklandviaWaiheke connected to the . Whitianga andTairua. Thamesisalsowell others CoromandelTown, loopthrough route ThamesandWaihi,while pass through unless theweather’sbeen particularly wet. are asmallcarcancope ingood nickandeven roads andafew streams toford.Mostof them hire agreements asthere are plentyof gravel the more remote areas, butbecareful tocheck istheonlyoptionforaccessing someofCar Getting There&Around than elsewhere onthe east coast. 4500mmayear) rainfall (3000mmoreven theregion mountainous, attractsmore Being in neighbouring districts. lower Maori presence onthepeninsulathan by the1880s.Even todaythere isamuch Climate MIRANDA resulted inMaori losingmostof theirlands This isoneof the mostaccessiblespotsfor It’s definitely worthconsideringthebeau- ontheAuckland-to-TaurangaDaily buses Coromandel greenie the late Michael King, anOpoutere resident King, the lateMichael re Riwy (p202) Railway Creek (www.pohutukawafestival.co.nz) Go green ( p214 ) Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat COROMANDEL REGIONFACTS Festival ( p206 ) buckets ofbivalvesatWhitianga’sScallop buckets

The Penguin HistoryofNewZealand boiledwaterfromamountaincampsite the birds in the Firth ofThames( thebirdsinFirth below ) The peninsula-wide Pohutukawa Festival Thepeninsula-widePohutukawa WaihiBeach( p213 ) ShonaLaing,thequintessential Witness forest regeneration at Driving Witnessforest regeneration atDriving L&P-addicted L&P-addicted (2003)by

195 COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL ὈὈ ὈὈ

COROMANDEL REGION 196 Port Jackson (66km) To Auckland (74km) Auckland (20km); To Pokeno 7 4 6 1 3 2 5 Fantail COROMANDEL REGION 6 Te KoumaHarbour Rangipukea Island Hauraki Miranda 2 Colville Bay Gulf 29 Motutapere Island OOADLRGO • Mrna COROMANDEL REGION••Miranda Cape Waimate Island Mt Moehau 20 Firth ofThames Coromandel Harbour Te Hope Wilsons Bay ᎊᎊ ᎊᎊ Kirita Bay Mangatarata Coromandel Forest Park (892m) ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Amodeo Bay (McGregor Bay) Waitakaruru AC Manaia Harbour Waiaro Waitete Bay Patetonga Kerata Fletcher Bay 21 Torehape Oamuru Bay Colville Bay Kaihere Waikawau Otatu 25 Whakatete Bay 22 Long Ruamahunga Bay Thorntons Bay Ngarimu Bay Pipiroa Te Mata Stony Bay Coastal Walkway Coromandel 27 Airstrip 30 Shelley Waiomu Waikawau Beach Tapu Te Kouma 25 Port Charles Manaia

Colville

Thames Piako 25 Orongo Koputal Wetland Town Coromandel 16 Management Waiau Falls

Reserve Waiau 24 12 2 19

15

Whangapoua Bay Waikawau 32

Point Te Anaputa Rv Waihou Table Mountain Kopu Kennedy Bay 5

(526m) Castle Rock

309 Rd R Range Coromandel (532m) Motutere Rerenga 35 10 Coromandel

Forest Park iver Kauaeranga B Te Airfield Awaiti (846m)

Valley 23 Tirohia 1 Harbour Beach New Chum's Puriri

25

Coroglen

Karangahake 3 P ACIF Ohinemuri SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Karangahake GorgeHistoric Walkway...... Highzone...... Butterfly &OrchidGarden...... (see19) C4 Broken HillsGold-MineWorkings.. DOC KauaerangaVisitorCentre... River Whitianga O CEAN S OUTH Airfield (9km) To TeAroha 26 27 Paeroa Beach Matarangi ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Great MercuryIsland Gorge 14 Matarangi 4 Whitianga Puket Puketui

u 28 Pinnacles 8

18 i Dalmeny 11 Valle (759m)

y Corner

River Mercury Waikino 9 Tairua Block Hei MarineReserve Falls Owharoa Kuaotunu 2 Bay Coromandel Otama Te WhanganuiA Forest Park Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park Otama Wentworth Beach Waitaia Bay Wharekawa

Valley 34 13 Whangamata Hot Water Waihi 2 Cathedral Beach 17 Bay Opito Cove Opito Hahei Tairua 33 12miles 20km 0 0 4 3 2 1 B6 B3 B4 25 Beach Ocean 2 31 Waiharakeke Pauanui Airfield Opoutere Ohui EATING SLEEPING Matatoki FarmCheese...... Colenso CountryShop&Café... Wentworth ValleyCampsite...... Waterlily Gardens...... (see13) Waikawau BayCampsite...... Tawatawa Lodge...... Stony BayCampsite...... Port JacksonCampsite...... Pinnacles Hut...... Pinnacles Campsite...... (see28) Moss ValeCampsite...... Miranda HolidayPark...... (see6) Manawa Ridge...... Mahamudra Centre...... Jacaranda Lodge...... Huia Lodge...... Fletcher BayCampsite...... Fletcher BayBackpackers...... Fantail BayCampsite...... Dickson HolidayPark...... Dickey's FlatCampsite...... Copsefield B&B...... Colville Farm...... Coastal MotorLodge...... B4 Broken HillsCampsite...... (see2) Billy GoatTrackCampsite...... Waterlily Gardens...... Waiau Waterworks...... Twin OaksRidingRanch...... Rapaura WaterGardens...... Purangi Estate...... Ohinemuri EstateWinery...... Miranda ShorebirdCentre...... Miranda HotSprings...... Kauri Grove...... Valley Golden Harbour Whangamata Opoutere Beach Stanley Island Ohinau Island Whiritoa 26 Bowentown Shoe Island Hauturu (Clarke)Island Orokawa Bay Waihi Beach Homunga Bay Athenree Slipper Island Red MercuryIsland Anzac Bay lonelyplanet.com D Alderman Islands 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 C6 A5 A5 B3 B5 C3 C5 B1 C5 A1 A1 C4 B4 C6 A2 B2 B4 A1 A1 A1 B4 C6 C5 B2 B4 C6 B3 C3 B4 C3 % 232 2781;www.miranda-shorebird.org.nz; 283EastCoastRd; unusual to see turnstones,sandpipers and unusual tosee orredgodwit andthelesser knot, butitisn’t here. Thetwomainspeciesare thebar-tailed winter –43speciesof waderhave spotted been ofsands Arctic-nestingshore birdsover the whichworms andcrustaceans, attractthou- lonelyplanet.com the initial boomturnedto bust,adubious 10,000 Europeansettlers withinayear. When in 1867,theNgati Maru were swamped by (p102). Museum (1878), holdsprideof placeintheAuckland Hotunui house, meeting Their spectacular the NgatiMaru, atribeof Tainui descent. river inEngland’.This area belonged to of itsbearingsomeresemblance to that ing theWaihouRiver ‘Thames’ ‘onaccount nearby . fortrampingorcanyoninginthe good base athome.eco-warrior you’llfeel It’sa right alternative lifestylers. Ifyou’re avegetarian grizzly prospectors have replaced been by buildings stilldominate thetowncentre, but today.Dinky19th-centurywooden it does had amuch different towhat connotation Thames dates from atimewhengold-digging pop 10,000 THAMES own hot-springpoolandafloodlit tennis court. cellent sparkling-cleanunitsandfacilities,its people $32,cabins/units$58/120; poolandprivate spas toasty sauna ($7 extra). south, hasalarge thermalswimmingpool,a Rd;adult/child$10/7; Front Miranda kitchen. a tion (dormbeds/doublerooms$18/50)with centre offers cleanbunk-styleaccommoda- eral walks(30minutes totwohours). The pamphlets ($2).Nearbyare ahideandsev- bird-watching useful binoculars andsells h banded dotterels and pied stilts. threatened wrybillfromtheSouthIsland,and ellers includethepiedoystercatcher andthe fromAlaska. Short-haulnonstop flight trav- heretagged wastracked makingan11,570km the oddvagrantred-necked stint.Onegodwit 07-867 3205; www.mirandaholidaypark.co.nz; sitesper2 07-867 3205;www.mirandaholidaypark.co.nz; After openingThamesto gold-miners HotSprings Miranda Captain Cookarrived hereCaptain in1769,nam- Next dooris The 9am-5pm) Miranda Shorebird Centre Centre Shorebird Miranda hasbird-life displays,hires out COROMANDEL REGION••Thames Miranda HolidayPark Miranda Mp p196; (Map ps h Mp p196; (Map

8am-9.30pm) , which hasex- % ) 07-867 3055;

Mp p196; (Map % , 5km 09- horsetreks.co.nz; 2½-hr/half-daytreks $80/150) day $30,half-to4-daytours$105-795) Sat &Sun)Informationandinternet access. co.nz; 206PollenSt; in thebeautiful Kauaeranga Valley. farmlandandforestrytrotting through blocks peninsula. the and organises small-group cycling tours of h Railway Small Gauge ride onthecute-as-a-button 900m just off BrownSt.Nearby,young ’unscan themangrovesby aboardwalkthrough Warriorbombing,it’sreached the Rainbow Bird Hide Bird lovers cantake advantage of the Activities hundreds of exotic flappers. Holiday Park. junglefullof It’sanenclosed 3pm) % will adore the town. the relics,pioneer rocksandoldphotographs of Cochrane &PollenSts;adult/child$5/2; ning forgold ($2 extra). the Cornishminers andtryyourhandpan- battery crush rock,learnabout thehistoryof agold-minetunnel,watch through astamper adult/child $10/4; Rd&SH25; cnrMoanataiari .goldmine-experience.co.nz; Maori burial ground. of aMethodist Sundayschool, situated ona (1868)waspart and fossils.Theoldestsection an extensive collectionof NZ rocks,minerals St; adult/child$5/2; Museum &Mineral Mines tours (onthehour)of theinteresting buildings. TheTrustalsoruns45-minute pamphletsof Thames’significant self-tour The i-SITEstocksfree HistoricPlacesTrust Sights i-SITE Thames Post Office Maori debtandforced land sales. system of government advancesresulted in Information Eyez Open The K Valley HorseTreks Kids (littleorlarge) withafairycomplex The 11am-3pm Sun) St;adult/child$9.50/5; 07-868 8080;Victoria , northof townwithintheDickson Goldmine Experience historical museum historical . Built with compensation fundsfrom . Builtwithcompensation (PollenSt) ( % ( % h Butterfly &OrchidGarden Butterfly h . h 07-868 9018;www.eyezopen.co.nz; per 07-868 7284;www.thamesinfo. 10am-4pm) 11am-3pm Wed-Sun) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( ( % ( % % 07-868 6129;www.kvalley 07-868 6803; tickets $1; 07-868 6803;tickets allowsyoutowalk

07-868 6227;101Cochrane

( ( % % rents outbikes h 07-868 8514;www 07-868 8509;cnr 1-4pm) , which has take you Mp p196; (Map

houses houses h Thames Thames School of Karaka

10am- 197 COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION 198 4 6 1 3 2 5 THAMES OOADLRGO • Tae COROMANDEL REGION••Thames Paki BikeShop...... Intercity BusStop...... (see 2) Thames Gallery...... Pohutukawa Design...... (see 18) Multiplex Cinemas...... Nectar LoungeBar...... Sola Café...... Organic Co-op...... (see15) Nakontong ThaiRestaurant...... Grahamstown Market...... Food forThought...... Backpackers...... Grafton Cottage&Chalets...... Gateway Backpackers...... Cotswold Cottage...... Brunton HouseB&B...... Thames SmallGaugeRailway...... Museum...... Karaka BirdHide...... Historical Museum...... Goldmine Experience...... Thames i-SITE...... Post Office...... a...... B2 Taj...... Sunkist International School ofMines&Mineral TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

Burke St Firth ofThames

AC Tararu Rd Tararu

Coromandel Town(55km) Butterfly &OrchidFarm(2km); Dickson HolidayPark(2km); To CoastalMotorLodge(1km); Beach Rd

Albert St 7 St Brown 12

Goldfields

3 Shopping

Pollen Centre Pollen

6

5 St Brown Cochrane St St 27 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 21

Mary St Pahau St B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 A1 D3 B3 D5 C3 A2 A2 B2 B2 A1 B3 B2

19 4 Queen St Queen 20 18 14 15 16

17

1 Waiotahi Rd

Pollen St Pollen Mackay St Mackay Bella St Bella B

Richmond St 13 Willoughby St

Hospital Thames Redwood Ln

Rolleston St Rolleston Karaka

2

10 St Sandes Ὀ Ὀ Jellicoe Rd

ParkRugby Cres Fenton St Grey St Thames Airfield Sealey St Rhodes Hape Rd Coll

Totara arbone Rd The Terrace The

25 Banks St St Heale

Mt Pleasant Rd St Hill Ngati Maru Hwy Maru Ngati Ὀ ὈὈ 0 0

Brunton

Parawai Rd Parawai Kauaeranga Cres

Hauraki ὆὆὆὆ Tce ὆὆὆὆ 8 To MatatokiFarm

Te Paeroa (29km) Cheese (7km); River

Arapipi Herewaka 9

Grafton Rd Cemetery Shortland Memorial Reserve St Racecourse William Bell

Rd Thames lonelyplanet.com DOC KauaerangaVisitor

To HuiaLodge(6km);

Kaua D Kauaeranga Valley;

Maramarahi era 11

0.5 miles nga Centre (11km)

Va 1 km lley

Rd Rd $125-195; Rd;units 304Grafton 9971; www.graftoncottage.co.nz; info.co.nz/HuiaLodge; 589 Kauaeranga Valleyinfo.co.nz/HuiaLodge; Rd;s/d/tr 589Kauaeranga water-slidingabseiling, and jumping. vertical descentof over 300m,requiring intheKauaerangaCanyon Valley. a Expect $235) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels The hospitable hosts provideThe hospitable free internet with awesomeviews andare self-contained. of attractive these woodenchalets have decks comfy roomsallopenonto a deck. riant linen(225-thread-count sheets). The makeover withbrand-newcarpetandluxu- thisprettycourse, villahashadamodern tr $240; Rd;s$130-155,d $140-165, cottage.co.nz; 36Maramarahi breakfasts andgoodadvice for walkers. est parkprovide decentrooms,fullcooked tothefor- close own thishomelyfarmhouse $65/100/130; Huia Lodge MIDRANGE &TOPEND offer. on short supplybutfree laundryandbikes are areden andsimplefacilities.Bathrooms in hostel hasclean, comfyrooms,anicegar- this, givingitahomelyfeel. Thisrelaxed of Kiwisgrew just like houses upinstate St; dm/s$23/45,d&tw$56-66; bikes, bush walksand roaming ducks. well-run campinggroundhasashop, free a valley3kmnorthof Thames, this pleasant, ins $50-65,units$95-120; sitesperperson$15,dm$22-24,cab- www.dicksonpark.co.nz; Kauaeranga Valley ($25 return). 4WD hire ($65 perday)andshuttles tothe bathrooms andagarden.Theyoffer free bikes, heritage buildinghasspaciousdorms,spotless est welcome,butthischaracter-filled 1860s person $14,dm$21-27,d&tw$60; 506BrownSt;sitesper 8808; www.sunkistbackpackers.com; Backpackers International Sunkist BUDGET spread. thinly modation, butbudget operators are more Thames hasagoodcropof B&Baccom- Sleeping Canyonz o Cotswold Cottage Backpackers Gateway Dickson HolidayPark runs God canyoning tripstotheSleeping p pis )

Lookingover theriver andrace- Grafton Cottage&Chalets Grafton p ( Mp p196; (Map % The affable empty-nesters Theaffable who ) 0800 422696;www.canyonz.co.nz; trips )

Perched onahill,most ( pis % %

( Mp p196; (Map % 07-868 6306;www.cotswold 07-868 6557;www.thames pi 07-868 6339; 209 Mackay 07-868 6339;209Mackay i COROMANDEL REGION••Thames Tucked awayin ) Notthewarm- )

% Generations Generations ) ( %

07-868 7308; ( /fax 07-868 % 07-868 might toywithapanini,cakemight orcoffee, but Pollen St;mains$12-16; ad meat. and planet-friendly vegetables, nuts, bread, eggs $5-12; including organic and vegetarian varieties. milk producedby thefarm’scowsandewes, Sat &Sun) cnr SH26&WainuiRd; 8.30am-noonSat; 5pm Mon-Fri, Lots of organic produceand handicrafts. Market Grahamstown SELF-CATERING salads. heavenly free andgluten-free optionsthatinclude cellent coffee andarange of vegan, dairy- this meat-free caféisfirst rate. ex- Expect $5-13; come here for. it’s really theaward-winningpiesthatyou Food forThought CAFÉS provide a warm glow. Thaidishesshould induce romance,thetangy Sun; and alltheother spicy favourites. perhaps, butTaj asublime does dinner Mon-Sat,Sun; Taj RESTAURANTS Eating and pool house. suites), but upgradingthekitchen, bathrooms credentials of thebuilding(there are noen truetothehistoric looked –staying through sive two-storey kaurivilla(1875)whenwe Renovations were underwayatthisimpres- tonhouse.co.nz; 210Parawai Rd;d$180-200; the summer months. makingitapopularchoice, especiallyin sea, place, 2kmnorthof Thames.Itoverlooks the dation isprovided atthissmart,welcoming Superior cottage andchalet-style accommo- www.stayatcoastal.co.nz; 608Tararu Rd;units$135-175; pool, spaandthree barbecue areas. access andbreakfast, of aswelluse the Matatoki Farm Cheese Matatoki

Organic Co-op Co-op Organic Sola Café Brunton HouseB&B Coastal MotorLodge Nakontong Thai Restaurant Nakontong Thai ( % v h h 07-868 8122;620PollenSt;mains$11-15; ) Taste andbuycheeses handmadefrom Although the bright lighting maynot lighting thebright Although 6.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-1.30pmSat) 6.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm;

( % ( %

( 07-868 8781;720bPollenSt;mains % h 07-868 8797;736PollenSt; h v ( 07-868 6065;574PollenSt;meals 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, Pollen St;

v

lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, dinner ( Mp p196; (Map

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COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION .go-kiwi.co.nz) ($18, 45 minutes). forefront inthiscutting-edge commercial h throughout the centrethroughout of thepeninsula. Forest Park, spread over major several blocks More than30walkscrisscross the Coromandel COROMANDEL FOREST PARK bikes for$25adayandperforms repairs. GoldfieldsShopping Centre)bikeshop.co.nz; from$1. starting to AucklandandTairua, withadvancefares (www.nakedbus.com) toHamiltonlocal buses (twohours). i-SITE. the Tauranga ($25,1¾hours), stoppingoutside ($18, onehour),Waihi45minutes) and one hour),Tairua ($17,45minutes), Paeroa ($25, twohours), CoromandelTown($16, city.co.nz) Coromandel. Thames isthetransporthubof the Getting There&Around the main street. gallery occupyingtwovery white roomson here. email You canalsodoyourlaundryandcheck your theworkofthat showcases localdesigners. products andfashioninthisfabulousstore find funkyjewellery,well-crafted wooden h Design Pohutukawa Shopping down thestreet from Nectar. 7.30pm) thames.co.nz; 708PollenSt;adult/child$13/8; can chill outover aglass of wine. of placewhere asolotraveller of anygender wwoofer andacousticjams.It’sthesort nights Deco chandeliers andregular backpacker/ The funkiestlittlebarinthe’Mandel, withArt Pollen St; ustoplotyour won’t need pub crawl. edges andare clustered around PollenSt.You of historicpubs.Mostof themhave somerough forThames,itisn’tshort One thingyoucansay Drinking &Entertainment 200 Paki Paki Bike Shop Bike Paki Paki Multiplex Cinemas Multiplex o Busit! Gallery Thames 9am-5pm Wed & Fri-Mon, 9am-7pmTue9am-5pm Wed&Fri-Mon, &Thu) 11am-6pm Thu-Mon) OOADLRGO • Crmne oetPr COROMANDEL REGION••CoromandelForest Park Screening recent blockbusters, just h has daily buses to/fromAuckland hasdailybuses

( % Nectar LoungeBar Nectar 5-11pm Tue-Fri, noon-1amSat,noon-5pmSun) 5-11pm Tue-Fri, hasdailyshuttles to/fromTairua 0800 4287546;www.busit.co.nz) InterCity has four services per week perweek hasfourservices

(

Go Kiwi Go Kiwi % ( (

% Localsare alsoatthe ( % % ( 07-868 8616;661PollenSt; % 07-868 7925;740PollenSt; 07-868 6602;www.cinema 07-867 9026;www.pakipaki ( 0508 353947;www.inter %

( % 0800 446549;www 021 1274326;746 rents out h hasdaily Naked Bus Naked You’ll 10.30am-

in this chapter. other partsof theparkare mentioned later toilet andrunningwater. Othercampsites in Vale onlya andtheBillyGoatTrack.Expect park: onenearthehutandothers atMoss Kauaeranga Visitor Centre Visitor Kauaeranga pretty little bays and rocky beaches. Sea birds pretty little baysandrockybeaches. Sea Narrow SH25snakes alongthecoastpast THAMES TOCOROMANDELTOWN sites booked. There are alsothree basicDOC toilets andcoldshowers, andmustbepre- $15/7.50) shuttles. about of thetrails.Enquire attheThameshostels further 9kmalongagravel roadtothestart hut. Thecentre theSH25;it’sa is14kmoff advice, andtakes bookingsforthePinnacles 9am-4pm Sat&SunJun-Sep) Valley Rd; 9080; Kauaeranga p210). (see Valley Puketui (see toStonyBay Fletcher Bay p204 ) andthe include the tramps behind Thames.Otheroutstanding Pinnacles returnsix- toeight-hour journeyuptothe returned tothelocal ofleads intoasection itthattheowners have gateNear thebottomof thedriveway, acarved ner $28to$32).The lodge isbuiltona available at thegoodon-site restaurant (din- youcanhearthecalls ofnight kiwi.Meals are frilly furnishings, enjoysheavenly At sunsets. 175) .tepurulodge.co.nz; 468ThamesCoastRd,Te Puru; d&tw$125- bays. thatfrontthepicturesquetiny settlements camping groundsare scattered aroundthe Coromandel Harbour is exquisite. The viewlookingtowardstheisland-studded to CoromandelTown,55kmfromThames. eral hillsandvalleysbefore droppingdown away fromthecoastandclimbsover sev- in December. theroadheads AtWilsonsBay referred toasthe‘NZChristmastree’) blooms turns crimsonwhenthepohutukawa (often bearing rocksonthebeaches. Thelandscape gold- and fossickforquartz,jaspereven are plentiful, andyoucanfish,digforshellfish The mostpopularhike isthechallenging A handfulof stores, motels, B&Bsand The The , aMediterranean-style stuccovillawith

Mp p9 autcid $9/2) adult/child p196 ; (Map Te Lodge PuruCoastView

DOC has80beds,gascookers, heaters, Department of Conservation (DOC) (DOC) ofConservation Department (759m) intheKauaeranga Valley Coromandel CoastalWalkway Pinnacles walk toabandonedgoldmines hasmaps($1)andgood hapu

h hut

8am-4pm daily Mp p196; (Map inthispartof the

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201 kept kept COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION $10/5; ta Thames. than tion choice, withmuch better budget options Coromandel Town isspoiltforaccommoda- Sleeping yacht). (three-hulled Coromandel Harbour onan11.2mtrimaran your mates (minimumfour)exploringthe ters.co.nz; half/fullday$50/100) nine-hour fishing session (including lunch). the three-hour Te KoumaHead Safaritothe 375) person. per (up tofive people),pricesdropaslow$35 in amini8WD.Ifyoucanmuster aposse $110-150) (2-3hr trips lots of peoplerun laughs. Thesame fishing tripswithauniquelylocalflavour and it all,well-knownpotter Brickell.Barry the videoaboutextraordinaryguybehind including 9000kauri.It’sworthlingering for more than17,000natives have planted, been artworks andregenerating native forest – full Tower’.Thehour-long trippasses twotunnels,finishing atthe‘Eye- through two spiralsandadoubleswitchback, and grades, acrossfourtrestle bridges, along Town. Theuniquetrainsrunupsteep 10.15am &2pm) Creek Rd;adult/child$20/11; 380 Driving ( The amazing Activities of life.pioneer (interms ofvides aglimpse openinghours) 4pm Sat&Sun,10am-4pmdailymid-Dec–lateJan) ( ing water wheel. stopping foraganderatNZ’slargest work- gold ($5).Outsideof thetours it’sworth hour tours. Youcanalsotrypanningfor rock-crushing plantwithinformative one- Battery i-SITE). the Coromandel Townpamphlet(free from sites featured intheHistoricPlacesTrust’s Heritage cantouraround28historic buffs Sights 202 % % The small The Tri SailCharters Tri Go Kayak Barge Mussel offers paddle-powered tours rangingfrom 07-866 7251; 841 Rings Rd;adult/child$2/50c; 07-866 7251;841Rings /fax 07-8668703;www.drivingcreekrailway.co.nz; OOADLRGO • Crmne on COROMANDEL REGION••CoromandelTown h

Coromandel Goldfield Centre &Stamper Coromandel GoldfieldCentre ( % tours 2.30pmTue, Thu&Sun) (

% 07-866 7933;410BuffaloRd;adult/child Coromandel Mining & Historic Museum &Historic Coromandel Mining is3kmnorthof Coromandel 07-866 7466; www.gokayak.co.nz; tours$75- 07-866 7466;www.gokayak.co.nz; & Potteries &Potteries Railway Creek Driving ( , exploringoldgoldworkings %

( % 07-866 7667; trips $40) 07-866 7667;trips 0800 024874;www.trisailchar willhave youand isan1899 h Argo Tours Argo departures departures offers offers h pro- 1.30-

creekvillas.com; 21aColvilleRd;d/tr/q villas$295/320/345; creekvillas.com; St; dm/d/tr$22/50/70) bobs) make forasoothingspottorest your with AfricanandNorthAmericanbits a relaxed collectionof comfyrooms(dotted andwisteria vines,and fish pond,fairylights in thismagicalplace. Atranquilgardenwith ate, which hasbicycles forhire and a sauna. atthisfriendlyYHAwell maintained associ- 60 WhangapouaRd;sitesperperson$12,dm$22,d$50-70; .coromandelholidaypark.co.nz; 636 Rings Rd;sitesperperson 636Rings .coromandelholidaypark.co.nz; $25/55/60/165; water.co.nz; 270Tiki Rd;sitesperperson$15,dm/d/tw/ste ones have en suites. rooms.Thepricier andstraight-up (in season) ers hasplentyof trees, free asauna, bikes, fruit pi owns anything anyway? your materialistic trappings.Hey, whoreally spellshave toprotectsuspect theright set been able. There are nolocksonthedoors, butwe bones. Breakfast anddinnerare alsoavail- and free bikes. big communalfacilities,smallmodernrooms central hostel hasenthusiasticnewowners, $20/46/46; Rd;dm/d/tw 732Rings [email protected]; Coromandel TownBackpackers BUDGET spacious, self-contained, modernwooden spacious, self-contained, p love their lot. the informationcentre. Theowners clearly spotless, smartandideallylocated, justbehind $140-165; Rd;s$120,units 365Kapanga .coromandelcourtmotel.co.nz; soapinmini ised towelsandpersonal- rooms, butexpectfluffy gardens.Someroomsshareand rose bath- located among6hectares of bucolicfarmland $110-150; .jacarandalodge.co.nz; 3195Tiki Rd;s$60-75,tw$110-130,d Jacaranda Lodge MIDRANGE &TOPEND ahead. book manicured lawns.Itgets busyinsummer,so welcoming, withnicelypainted cabinsand $17, cabins$77,units$137-147; Coromandel Court Motel Coromandel Court Coromandel HolidayPark o Tidewater Tourist Park Tidewater Tourist Tui Lodge Driving Creek Villas Villas Creek Driving ) Thisistheposh,grown-up’s choice –two ) Pleasantly rural,thischeery backpack- Pleasantly p p p Lions’ Den

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( /fax 07-8668157;126Te Tiki % ps 07-866 7755;www.driving

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% 07-866 8002;www 07-866 8402;www 07-866 8830;www Well-kept and ) 07-866 8327;coro- Kapanga Rd; Kapanga 27; Eating complete withbubbling creek, sublime. appliances first-rate andthebushsetting, design isslick(withaPolynesianbent),the villas, withplentyof privacy.Theinterior lonelyplanet.com is byferry. Operator By farthenicestway totravel fromAuckland Getting There& Away smartly styledin corrugated iron. gardenisawesome, the weekends. Thebeer decent soundsandaroster of live musicon 1873 building,thissmartpubhaspool tables, the mostof thesimplekauriinterior of an h choices onthe main street. of pubsasThames,butthere are stillseveral have volume Coromandel doesn’t thesame Drinking bread and deli items. the placefororganic meatandvegetables, hot extremely addictive smoked mussels. food. Youcan’tleave townwithouttryingthe a wonderfulrange of smoked fishandsea- Tiki Rd; Company Coromandel Smoking friendly if occasionally haphazard. is breakfasts.tummy-taming Theservice and quiches around$5),superbcoffee and lent pizza,mouthwatering counter food(tarts upclassycaféfare, includingexcel- serves ($6 per hour). whiletheadultschecksandpit theiremail healthy. Oncesated, thekidscanplayin wonderful –beautifullypresented, fresh and and fair-trade awaits.Thefoodis delights tion of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, organic funky mud-brick café,where alarge selec- flappingTibetanthrough prayerflagstothis Creek Rd;mains$7-13; Driving fish or chicken affairs. chowder.as mussel Dinners are solidmeat, cooked breakfasts, andlocalspecialitiessuch Mon) $5-12, dinner$20-24; Success Café Umu o Star & Garter Hotel Star &Garter Tere’s CoromandelCountryFresh For adelicioussnackorcookingsupplies, h noon-midnight Sun-Tue, 11am-1amWed-Sat) Thiseasy-going cafédelivers goodcoffee, h breakfast &lunchdaily,dinnerTue-Sun)

( % 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, &Sat) 9am-5.30pmFri h Driving Creek Café Café Creek Driving

( 07-866 8618; 22 Wharf Rd;mains$12- 07-866 8618;22Wharf % 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat) 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, COROMANDEL REGION••Far Coromandel North 07-866 7100; 104 Kapanga Rd;brunch 07-866 7100;104Kapanga h breakfast &lunchdaily,dinnerThu-

( % 360 Discovery h 07-866 8503; 5 Kapanga Rd; 07-866 8503;5Kapanga 9.30am-5pm;

( %

( % (

07-866 7066;180 % 07-866 8793;70

( % 07-866 8639; Making v 0800 888 Umu Enter ) has is and Whitianga($18, 80 minutes). to/fromThames($16,onehour) daily buses Rd; accommodation, includingbare-basics bush % tiny settlement oftiny settlement water andacouple of long-drop toilets child $9/2) DOC-run watersturquoise andstonybeaches. Thesmall cient pohutukawa spread overhead asyoupass of thepeninsula. Followingthewestcoast,an- stops andtheroadsplitstostraddle each side your lastoption for either). from organic foodtopetrol (warning:thisis 8.30am-5pm Sun) 6805; ColvilleRd; and thequaint sporadic openinghours intheoff-season, except for alternative lifestylers. There’s notmuch here munity byamuddybayandmagnetfor Coromandel Town).It’saremote ruralcom- setting. parklike accommodationina simple butcomfortable hall andregular courses. Itoffers meditation Buddhist retreat that hasastupa,meditation $10, dm$24,s$30-41,tw$62; % ing) orgoonhorse treks ($27, 1½ hours). try theirhandsatfarmwork(includingmilk- Guestscan houses. lodges andself-contained units $60-105; Colville Rd;sitesperperson$10,dm/s/d/tw$22/25/50/50, (there isn’t a lotof accommodation up here). their crimsongloryandcamping’sanoption roadsarethe metal dry,thepohutukawa are in reach it.Thebesttimetovisitissummer,when Peninsula required iswellworththeeffort to beautiful, therugged tipof theCoromandel Supremely isolated andgob-smackingly FAR NORTHCOROMANDEL andthe Creek Railway Goldfield Centre. (adult/child $129/70)thatincludesDriving great daytrip,andthere’s aguided-touroption way/return $39/65,70minutes). Itmakes a two hours) viaOrapiuonWaiheke Island (one to/from Auckland(oneway/return $49/82, 006; www.360discovery.co.nz) h Another kilometre bringsyoutothe The nearby The 1260-hectare Three kilometres northof Colvilletheseal InterCity 07-866 6851; www.mahamudra.org.nz; sitesperperson 07-866 6851;www.mahamudra.org.nz; 07-866 6820;www.colvillefarmholidays.co.nz; 2140 8am-4pm Sun-Fri, 8am-6.30pmSat) 8am-4pm Sun-Fri, , 23kmnorthof Colville,has running ( Colville Café Fantail Baycampsite % pi , selling just about everything justabouteverything , selling h 0508 353947;www.intercity.co.nz) Colville General Store Colville General Mahamudra Centre Mahamudra 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, ) hasarange of interesting Colville

( % has four boats weekly hasfourboatsweekly Colville Farm p 07-866 6690;2312Colville isaserene Tibetan ) (25kmnorthof

Mp p9 adult/ p196; (Map , which has

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has 203 COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION various islandsonthehorizon.Great Barrier further on,where dish identifiesthe ametal beach. the ible lookout before headingsteeply downwith byclimbingsharplySH25 starts toanincred- State Highway25 route untamed through unsealed, bush. deep is theless-travelled butlegendary 309Rd, an detours beaches. topristinesandy Theother viewsandhasshort lows thecoast,enjoyssea longerslightly butquicker SH25,which fol- southeast toWhitianga. Themainroadisthe There are tworoutes fromCoromandelTown COROMANDEL TOWNTOWHITIANGA Railway. Creek cutting backtocomeoutneartheDriving winds itswaysouthpast the CoromandelForest Park. Theroadthen required Dec-Jan)$9/2, bookings DOC to ing backtoColville,oryoucancontinuesouth Another 8kmbringsyoutotheturn-off lead- beach.baches (holiday homes)onapleasant pass through coast roadterminates. Heading southyou adult/child $9/2) four from StonyBay hours later. andpickyouupTown uptoFletcher Bay child $90/45) ( walking allthewayback, tion acrossfarmland.Ifyou’re notkeen on with great viewsandanamblingsec- coastal and Bay three-hour, one-wayhike Fletcher between each. Bringsheets and food. thathasfourroomswithbunks in affair % here, aswell another DOC Colville, allowanhourforthedrive. There’s it’sonly37kmfrom cal land’send.Although Peninsula thatit once was. parttheextensionevery of theCoromandel Island ( p140 ) isonly20kmaway,looking $9/2) adult/child p196; brings youtothe under theshadeof puriritrees. Another7km 204 % There’s lookoutabout 4km aspectacular The roadstopsat There’s another DOC There’s anotherDOC The Waikawau Bay Waikawau 07-866 6712; [email protected]; dm$20) 07-866 6712;[email protected]; 0800 668175;www.coromandeldiscovery.co.nz; adult/ OOADLRGO • Crmne onT htag COROMANDEL REGION••CoromandelTownToWhitianga campsite Coromandel CoastalWalkway Stony Bay willdrive youfromCoromandel at Stony Bay, where atStonyBay, theeast-

Mp p196; (Map Port Charles Port campsite Fletcher BayBackpackers , where there’s yetanother , a larger DOC site right on site, alarger right DOC . It’sarelatively easywalk Port Jacksoncampsite Port Fletcher Bay

(Map (Map p196 ; adult/child$9/2) % in another section of inanothersection Coromandel Discovery , where there are Kennedy Bay Kennedy campsite 07-866 1106;adult/child –amagi- isascenic, –asimple

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baches), of which only16have permanent of 250flashproperties(toosmarttobecalled and youreach again fall off theendof starts theearth,seal a shock.Justwhenyouthinkyou’re about to 2362; BlackjackRd;sitesperperson $10; at toilet inacorrugated shack)inafarmer’sfield extremely basiccamping(thinklong-drop butforafew andfarms.There’sserted houses stretch of Coromandel’s best-kept secrets. First thelong takes road)tooneof you(viaanunsealed off-season. the hire. Theowners sometimesshutupshop in with smartfacilitiesandbikes andkayaks for across fromthebeach. It’salovely littlehostel $30/70, d$75-95) ( and ancientpetrolpump. stretch of white-sand beach, withacafé,store more interesting holidaytownonabeautiful often- the to foreshore deserted rocky the along walk here butgeneric holidayhomes,butyoucan bour toWhangapoua. There’s notmuch The atTeturn-off Rerenga followsthehar- Rock(526m)inthedistance. Castle craggy 10m-high 10m-high aprettywalk through patch of bush to the knives, washing machines, bikes and toilets. powered madefrom oldkitchen amusements fully bizarre parkfilledwithwhimsicalwater- h www.waiauwaterworks.co.nz; 471309Rd;adult/child$12/6; The rejoining SH257kmsouthof Whitianga. of butwellmaintained), which isunsealed theranges309 cutsthrough for21km(14km 3kmsouthofStarting CoromandelTown,the 309 Road self- a and balcony contained view-tastic flat downstairs. a with room pi Pl;d/tr$140/175; www.leightonlodge.co.nz; 17Stewart folksoflightful pa a magicalbeach. YoucanwalktoaNgatiHei residents. It’smore thanalittleweird,butitis % Summer Camping Ground BeachSummerCamping Otama (fortifiedvillage) site atthe far end. Continue alongtheroadandyou’llbeinfor Heading atKuaotunu offthehighway Continuing eastyousoonreach Two kilometres later there’s atwo-minute One of the‘real’ residences thede- houses 9am-5pm) 07-866 2988; www.black-jack.co.nz; 201SH25;dm/tw 07-866 2988;www.black-jack.co.nz; Waiau Waterworks ) . ThissmartB&Bhasanupstairs New Chum’sBeach Otama Waiau Falls , 5kmfromSH25,isawonder- hasaprimepositiondirectly Opito

Leighton Lodge Beach – ahidden-awayenclave . Stopagain after another

Mp p196; (Map comes intoview–de- (30 minutes). Black JackBackpackers lonelyplanet.com p

( % % . ) 07-866 0756; 07-866 7191; Kuaotunu ( % 07-866 , a

said tohavesaid landednearhere. Thename Polynesian explorer andseafarer Kupe,is .co.nz; 66 Albert St; .co.nz; 66 Albert & Sun)Informationandinternetaccess($9 per hour). biggest hasa 6m circumference. of whatthe peninsula oncelooked like. The the 19thcentury,givingamajestic reminder 600-year-old giantsescapedthecarnage of ing 500m foraneasy10-minute walktoanamaz- lonelyplanet.com bike). Ontheway toHahei, ( Hot Water Beach p208 ; 18km,onehourby Cove ( p208 ; 15km),Hahei ( p208 ; 13km)and walking distance.Further afieldare Cathedral Memorial Flaxmill Bay to Feb-Christmas) Christmas-Jan, 7.30am-6.30pm&7.30-8.30pm9.30-10.30pm ride ferry north of theharbour. Afive-minute Kupe and Cook. especially Whitianga’s mostfamousvisitors, but interesting, focusing onlocalhistory– Esplanade; adult/child$5/50c; BayMuseum Mercury Sights &Activities Whitianga i-SITE Post office Centre Medical CoveCathedral andHot Water Beach. naturalattractions, two famousandfantastic Kupe (theCrossing Placeof Kupe).Nearbyare Whitianga isacontractionof Te Whitiangaa not particularly interesting. Most of therestaurants are overpriced and breeze intotheprettyconstantly harbour. whosprung up,catering totheboatieset eateries and accommodationoptionshave a lustfortheluxe, anumberof upmarket Whanganui AHei Ifyou’ve Marine Reserve. limestonecoastandnearbyTethe craggy by ing andkayakingopportunitiesafforded beaches of Mercury andthediving,boat- Bay to get wet.Thebigattractionsare thesandy If youcometo Whitianga you’dbetter want pop 3580 WHITIANGA h Information A genuine nauticalhero,thelegendary Buffalo Beach 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9-11am 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat) Whitianga Rock Scenic & Historical Reserve Whitianga RockScenic&Historical kauri grove kauri (adult/child/bicycle $2/1/50c; , (72 Albert St) (72Albert Lonely Bay , willtake you acrosstheharbour Shakespeare’s Lookout Shakespeare’s ( (Map p196 of). Thisstand 13 % stretches alongMercury Bay, h ( COROMANDEL REGION••Whitianga % 07-866 5911; 87 Albert St; 07-866 5911;87Albert 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 07-866 5555;www.whitianga and

( % h CooksBay 07-866 0730;11aThe 10am-4pm) Purangi Estate Purangi h , Captain Cook’s Captain 7.30am-11.30pm , allwithin issmall passenger (Map (Map

, fruit wines and liqueurs. 1-3hr tours $50-100) A rigid-hull 1-3hr tours $50-100) Arigid-hull inflatable. A 12m launch. Cave Cruzer Cave Blue Boat include: Options others offer optionalswims andsnorkels. and orcas.Someare while cruises straight you’re penguins lucky,dolphins,furseals, amazinglimestoneformations and,if see Reserve Whanganui AHeiMarine There are numberof tours abaffling to Tours for openingdates and prices. with aneruptingvolcano. Checkthewebsite hot poolsinalush junglelike complete setting, Rotorua thermalproject, of involvingaseries .co.nz; 121aCookDr) the for off themainroad.Call opening hours. leap. It’slocated 7kmsouthof Whitianga, just venture onaropescourse, includingatrapeze $15-60) Rd;activities .co.nz; 49Kaimarama bush 9kmnorth through of Whitianga. take youhorse-trekking over farmlandand www.twinoaksridingranch.co.nz; SH25;2hrtrek $50) end of January. only operate Boxing between Dayandthe www.whitianga.co.nz/bananaboat; $10-15) rides yellow, motorised (from $40 including gear). per hour),andprovides windsurfinglessons (from $25perhour)andkayaks$15 4km northof Whitianga,hires outsailboards to fishing.sustainable the boxedmarina. See text, p182 , foraguide Enquiresands. atthei-SITEoraround at around$500andheadingintothethou- There are numerouscharters onoffer, starting Januarylin andtuna)between andMarch. for is abase than admiringthem,theWhitiangamarina shore, kayakand boat dives. accreditedstar dive facilityoffering arange of .co.nz; $120-225) 7BlacksmithLane;trips Rd; p196; Under constructionatthetimeof research, Ranch Twin OaksRiding Windsurfing Seafari HQ Dive Highzone Another optionforwatery funisabright- If you’re more interested incatching fish h Lost Spring % 9am-5pm) 07-866 3724;www.purangiestate.co.nz; 501Purangi (

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% Mp p196; (Map % 07-866 4904;2hrtouradult/child $50/10) game-fishing hasacaféandfree of tastings

isanintriguingDisney-meets- 07-867 1580;www.divethecoromandel 0800 427893;www.cavecruzer.co.nz; ( % Banana Boat 07-866 1456;www.thelostspring

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, COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION ps St;sitesperadult/child$18/8, cabins$75-140; 121 Albert tomboatwhitianga.co.nz; 2hrtouradult/child $75/40) neighbourhood, this smallcampisnonethe- BayMotorCamp Mercury BUDGET Sleeping entertainment. .co.nz) In August,the Festivals &Events Tours Ocean Wave Glass BottomBoat 206 inflatable ora 9m trimaran. wave.co.nz; 1½hrtouradult/child$55/35)A rigid-hull 4 1 3 2 WHITIANGA &AROUND Thames (66km) Highzone (7km); To WhitiangaAirfield(4km); provides of aweek sublimefoodand 25 OOADLRGO • Wiina COROMANDEL REGION••Whitianga

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9

07-866 5380; Pde Marine Rd ) Bay Lonely Good Cooks Bay with feline images, includingahuman-sized extreme, thislong-runningB&Biscrawling lonelyplanet.com has ahelipad, sumptuouslinen andaspawith luxury. Theprivate two-bedroom apartment style, hillsidevilla have imbueditwithelegant couplewhoownthispalatial,Tuscan- Italian .co.nz; Tarapatiki Dr;d/tr$520/660; sible bushtrackon the property. mobility –there’s awheelchair-acces- even tremely forguestswithrestricted wellset-up credible viewsatthishilltopB&B. It’sex- Modern Europeandesigncouples within- .withinthebays.co.nz; 49Tarapatiki Dr;d$240-300; o TOP END chilled-out hostsprovide a breakfast.light are like motel roomswithoutkitchenettes. The andsunnyunits bright beach andshops, these St;d$120; bersix.co.nz; 6Albert suites, butthey’re enough. comfortable one inthefrontgarden.Notallroomshave en 41 SouthHwy;s/d/tr/q$70/105/120/160) CottageB&B Cosy Cat MIDRANGE Captain Cook'sMemorial...... Whitianga i-SITE...... Post Office...... Medical Centre...... Passenger Ferry...... InterCity BusStop...... (see3) Mercury TwinCinemas...... Tuatua...... Sangam IndianCuisine...... Monk StMarket...... Fire Place...... Coghill Café...... Café Nina...... On TheBeachBackpackersLodge...... Mercury BayMotorCamp...... Cosy CatCottageB&B...... Cat's Pyjamas...... Albert Number6...... Shakespeare's Lookout...... Seafari Windsurfing...... Mercury BayMuseum...... Lost Spring...... Dive HQ...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Villa Toscana Villa NumberSix Albert Within The Bays Within The

COROMANDEL REGION••Whitianga ( % (

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) the moderninteriors wraparoundbigstone west of town. Theairfieldis4km minutes, twiceweekly). Islandand Auckland(both$109,30 Barrier Barbecue forbreakfast?Barbecue Whythehellnot. St; meals$5-16; daily buses to/from Coromandel Town ($18, 80 to/fromCoromandel Town($18,80 daily buses barrierairlines.co.nz) Airlines Barrier Great Getting There&Around films asanalternative to getting wet. latest-release mainstream andindependent TwinCinemas Mercury Entertainment produce. organic Sat) St Market the $15 Sunday roast. lookoutforcrackingspecialslike off-season Inthe ing roomforthephenomenaldesserts. fired pizzas ($20)are fortwo,sav- bigenough chimneys andopenfires. Theexcellentwood- $20-36; mussels. Coromandel with alocalflavour –trytheMadrid-style crazehasmadeittoWhitianga,buttapas $20-30; lifeline. fish-and-chips If thekidsaren’t spice-friendly there’s a market restaurant fittings. withexoticlight India comestoWhitiangaviathislarge, up- Blacksmith Lane;mains$15-22; in the park. hotplate whilethepunters spilloutontotables onanoutdoor kitchen grillsbaconandeggs Too cooltobeconstricted tofourwalls,the havesandwiches gourmet aspirations. ter foodbeckonsenticinglyandthetoasted terrace of thisside-street café,where thecoun- h Coghill Café Eating ($950 per day). fishing boat bikes are available, andtheowners’ game- breathtaking views.Kayaks andmountain InterCity Fire Place Tuatua Sangam IndianCuisine o Self-catering foodiesshouldheadto Self-catering fordeligoods,imported chocolate and 7am-5pm) h h

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COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION the off-season. Thelocalstore remains open the off-season. Hahei have really does a‘gone fishing’ feel in Sleeping &Eating bikes ($20)andboogie boards ($25). out scubagear ($50), snorkelling gear ($30), costs $145includingallthegear. Italsorents beginners courseA Discover Scuba half-day dives $60-95) visiting caves, blowholesanda long tunnel. heads theotherwaywhenconditions permit, CoveCathedral area. TheRemote CoastTour the limestonearches, caves andislandsinthe $75/125) BeachRd;half/fullday 88Hahei www.seakayaktours.co.nz; views. coastal walk upto southern endof Hahei it’s a20-minute Beach, CoveCathedral to and sandy bigsnapper,crayfishlikely andstingrays) tosee Bay it in25.Onthewaythere’s rocky but anyonewho’snotonaventilator willdo that thewalktocove willtake 45minutes, a kilometre northof Hahei, thesignssuggest ing theworst of thehordes.Atcarpark, is bestenjoyedearlyorlate intheday–avoid- tic limestonearch andnaturalwaterfall shower, Beautiful Sights &Activities Te Arawa people, whoarrived inthe14thcenturyon Hei, theeponymousancestorof theNgatiHei in thequieter months. Ittakes itsnamefrom great placetounwindforafew days,especially Cove.at Cathedral It’sacharming spot,anda loads of touristsdoingtheobligatorystop-off –apartfromthebus- abandoned otherwise balloons tobursting insummerbutisnearly A legendary Kiwibeach town,little Hahei pop 270(7000insummer) HAHEI with advancefares starting from $1. Auckland (3¾hours) andTairua (45minutes), (www.nakedbus.com) head toTairua ($12,45minutes). Go Kiwi ($33, 1½hours), stoppingatthei-SITE.Daily minutes), Tairua ($17,45minutes) andThames 208 Cathedral Cove Dive Cove Cathedral Kayaking Sea Cove Cathedral It’s a70-minute walkalongthecoastfrom (which hasa snorkelling trailwhere you’re OOADLRGO • Hhi COROMANDEL REGION••Hahei runsguidedkayakingtripsaround ( % Cathedral Cove Cathedral takes dives two orthree timesdaily. canoe. Stingray Bay 0800 446549;www.go-kiwi.co.nz) Te Pare Pare Te has four services per week to to perweek hasfourservices , a (

% Hahei Beach Hahei . pa , withitsfamousgigan- 07-866 3955; Hahei BeachRd; 07-866 3955;Hahei site with splendid

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Rd; mains$25-36; and huge bathtub. bedroom, withitsterrace, walk-inwardrobe fice, thefriendlyowners rent outthemaster opposite theshops.Inasupremeright sacri- and ensuites are on offer inthismodernB&B, r$170-180; .co.nz; 1CathedralCourt; a photogenic garden setting. have stylish, modernbutnaturalinteriors in beautifully kitted-out, rustictimbercottages BeachRd;cottages$125-165; 87 Hahei hardcoreto those types. bag-of-rice-a-week provide replenishment vitamin much-needed units.Giftsof contained free fruitinseason cilities are justasattractive asthepricierself- The dormroomsandexcellentcommunalfa- respect asthelushbromeliad-filled garden. are treated withatleastasmuch care and pi [email protected]; GrangeRd;dm/d/tw$25/60/60,units$185; beat the location. commodation isbestavoided, butyoucan’t facilities aren’t great andthebackpacker ac- to priceyocean-view villas.Thecommunal sive beachfront resort ranges fromtent sites The accommodationatthisabsolutely mas- $22, cabins$90-156,cottage$353,villas$177-398; holidays.co.nz; HarsantAve; sitesper2people$34-50, dm choice, catch theferry over to Whitianga. Formore evening. at leastoneoptionevery and theeateries take itinturnssothatthere’s beach where hotwater oozes up frombeneath front of arocky outcropatthemiddleof the low tide,youcan accessanarea of in sand quite is extraordinary. For twohours eithersideof Beach Water Hot famous, Justifiably HOT WATERBEACH ( and thenarrange aridewith to take theferry fromWhitianga(see p205 ) Without acar,theeasiestwaytoget here is bytransportproviders.Hahei isn’twellserved Getting There&Around chickenstuffed breast with black pudding. upmarket Europeanmenuwithtwists,such as top of thedrive. TheScottishchef delivers an in theultracharming woodenchurch atthe cottages, thisisthetown’sbesteatery, housed % Cathedral Court Cathedral Church o Church Restaurant HolidayResort Hahei 07-866 2644;one way $25) ) Awonderfulplacewhere backpackers

( % Tatahi Lodge Tatahi 07-866 3533; www.thechurchhahei.co.nz; 07-866 3533;www.thechurchhahei.co.nz; h Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (

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866 3875; Rangihau Rd;1/2hrtrek $30/50) 866 3875;Rangihau dawn.co.nz; 15 Radar Rd;dm$25,units$110-130; dawn.co.nz; 15Radar on thedeckandattractive living quarters. lonelyplanet.com t compost. to duced inthelocal area, fromvegetables h attracts big-nameKiwibands in summer. chetypal countrypubthat middle-of-nowhere SH25; Tavern Thelegendaryof HotWater Beach. lage onSH25,southof Whitiangaandwest Coroglen isablink-and-you’ll-miss-it vil- COROGLEN &AROUND ( garden huts in summer. kawa trees. Backpacker bedsare available in a biggardenthatincludesancientpohutu- with spaciousandhomelyhouse comfortable, modern Pasifika/Maori bent. ful things–art,sculpture, jewellery–witha .moko.co.nz; 24PyePl; door. the roundings. Insummerthere are queuesout excellentfoodincoolsur- ($4) andserves Pye Pl;meals$10-17; The wonderful mer, lowtidewinter) Beach Store beaches stillhastracesof aNgati Hei cent breaks. thetwo Theheadlandbetween beforeoff themainbeach toaccesssomede- you’ve gotapersonal spapool.Surfers stop the surface. Bringaspade,digholeand Pye Pl;r$250; % Coroglen Farmers Market A niceluxury-stylepad, Near thebeach, Spades ($5)canbehired fromthe Nearby, thefolks at Dawn’sPlace Auntie strict your activities toburningyourbum. youractivities strict Regardless, swimminghere is the hugenumberoftouriststhatflockhere. bynumbers, althoughthismaybeskewed ous beachesinNZterms ofdrowning It’soneofthefourmostdanger-section. cially directly infrontofthemainthermal Hot Water Beachhasdangerousrips,espe- WATER… YOURSELFINTOHOTGETTING 9am-noon Sun) 07-866 3991;www.hotwaterbedandbreakfast.co.nz; 48 h

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% ) isa . voila 07- , 4pm Jun-Sep) Rd; .tairua.info; 223Main ( ( ( trips,including and sightseeing festival dive ($550). ComeDecember,italso organises a only $105,snorkelling $75)andPADI courses Alderman Islands(dive andfullgear $195,trip The companyalsoruns dive tripsouttothe kayaks, plusscuba,snorkel andfishing gear. tairua.co.nz; TheEsplanade; occupation. Maori one ratherdismissive toitslong onedevoted Tairua’sdetail colonialhistory,withonly Alderman Islands.Plaquesalongtheway amazing viewsover Tairua, Pauanui andthe the topof Paku Dr,withthepayoff being steep 15-minute walktothesummitfrom by NgatiMaru inthe17thcentury.It’sa was aNgatiHei ago wasavolcanicisland.More recently it craggy Forming thenorthheadof theharbouris Sights &Activities Tairua InformationCentre Information in the summertime. to keep itreal. Bothare ridiculouslypopular out aroundof golf.Friendly Tairua knowshow before beach houses their grandiose knocking who jetinandparktheirprivate planesby camp forover-wealthy Aucklanders –thekind of eateries), Pauanui isanupmarket refugee dential town(withshops, ATMs andachoice ity stops.Where Tairua isafunctioningresi- shade better), but that’swhere thesimilar- decent surfbeaches (Pauanui’s isprobably a or forlittlekidstosplashaboutin.Bothhave of ariver estuarythat’sperfect forwindsurfing Tairua anditstwintownPauanui siteitherside pop 1566 TAIRUA and a atmosphere.sweet trade coffee, scones,cakes snacks, andlight snacks$6-16) 3725; Whenuakite; through beautifulbushto through views. spectacular track, on horseback upahistoricpackhorse % % % Various operators offer fishing charters Tairua &Fishinn Dive Colenso CountryShop&Café 07-864 8511;[email protected]) 07-864 9415;[email protected]) 07-864 8193; www.epicadventures.co.nz) Paku Paku

(www.divefestival.co.nz) , which around seven millionyears, which around seven pa h , before being invaded

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COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION keep happy.Roomsare everyone homeyand owner of hostel workshardto thisfantastic it also serves decentsnacks(such ascrunchy it alsoserves 29; has bright rooms,abalcony,free has bright pooltable mgt expect. might is Mod-NZ-ish asyou andnotallof itseafood Thefood shells foreffect. decorated withsaid this placeoffers shipshape diningwithtables Sat May-Sep) Rd; mains$21-29; and fat sandwiches. mealssuchsnacks andlight aslovely salads decentcoffee, breakfast, deli ing placeserves meals $9-17; the usualrandom meat patty. a choice of scotch filletorporkloininstead of panini sliceswithdips)andgiantburgers with Bar&Grill Punters Eating &Drinking lovely. particularly ofadd adose tranquillity.Theloft roomis an organic feel, andtheswoopinggardens bricks andmacrocarpatimbergive thisplace ValleyRewarewa Rd;s/d$200/230; available. usually gardenoutside. Discountpackages areSeas wood andGauguindécorinsideaSouth chalets, withnatural spacious self-contained ‘island-style’ resort inthetowncentre has harbour.co.nz; Rd;chalets$188-199; 227Main paint, butit’sotherwise well-kept. and bikes forhire. There’s abitof peeling pi Rd;dm$23,d&tw$56; 305Main pinnaclesbakpak.co.nz; $20. paltry and bikes, andwindsurfinglessonscosta feijoas, fishing rods,kayaks,sailboards eggs, Guests canhelpthemselves toavocados, casual, whilethedormscores great views. dm/s $26/45,d&tw$55-59; Rd;sitesperperson$18, 200Main [email protected]; Tairua Backpackers BeachVilla Sleeping Adventures wilderness walksunderthename offersDoug Johansen informative day-long 210 h Pacific HarbourLodge Pinnacles Backpackers A localversion of CrocodileDundee, Dell Cote Cote Dell Shells Restaurant &Bar Shells Restaurant Out oftheBlueCafé OOADLRGO • Aon ara COROMANDEL REGION••AroundTairua lunch &dinner) ) Northof thetowncentre, thisplace Next tothePacific Harbour Lodge,

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( lunch & dinner daily Oct-Apr, dinner Tue- lunch &dinnerdailyOct-Apr, Thisisprimarilyapub,but 07-864 8142;www.dellcote.com; % 07-864 9370; Main Rd;mains$6- 07-864 9370;Main ( % (

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% 07-864 8811; 227 Main 07-864 8811;227Main 784 48 http:// 8448; 07-864 ) Thegregarious Nontoxic mud ) 07-864 8345;tairua Kiwi Dundee Kiwi pi This ) . Thames ($18,45minutes) andWhitianga is awildernessarea sotake care andbeprop- $9/2) at thebasicDOC torch andajacket here withyou.Youcanstay takes twohours return; remember totake a the 500m-longCollinsDrive minetunnel.It batteries, butthebesthikestamper isthrough road. There are shortwalksuptothesites of from themainroadalongamainlygravel gold-mine workings to Puketui Valley andthehistoric Located 12kmsouthof Tairua istheturn-off Puketui Valley AROUND TAIRUA summer. in running more frequently andforlonger hours twohoursdeparts every from9amto5pm, senger ferry (oneway/return $3/5),which ($12, 45 minutes). www.go-kiwi.co.nz) fares from$1. starting and Whitianga(45minutes), withadvance Auckland (three hours), Thames(45minutes) (www.nakedbus.com) and Whitianga($17,45minutes). to/fromThames($17,45minutes) daily buses InterCity Getting There&Around for the endangered NZ dotterel. Wildlife Refuge Wharekawa spitisthe tothebeach. Onthesand close ous, especiallynear HikinuiIslet,which is for milesaround. Swimmingcanbedanger- Apart fromacluster of there’s houses nothing kept hasbeen very expanse quiet. long sandy Pauanui asthisunspoilt andWhangamata, hordes of invade Aucklanders thatseasonally it’s alocalconspiracytokeep atbaythe File thisoneunderbest-kept secrets. Maybe OPOUTERE plane imum four),light or helicopter. transfers bycharter boat($65perperson, min- tocallaheadarrange You’llneed Home Bay. units$200to$750)in dation (self-contained andchalet$15/10) inSouthBay accommo- 7560; www.slipper.co.nz) The privately owned Slipper Island boiled before drinking. erly prepared. Water fromtheriver shouldbe Tairua andPauanui are connected byapas- , located in apretty spotbytheriver. This ( % 0508 353947;www.intercity.co.nz) hasdailyshuttlesto/from Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels has four services per week to perweek hasfourservices Mp p9 , hc ae 8km are which p196), (Map has campsites (adult/child campsite Slipper Island Go Kiwi Go Kiwi , abreeding ground

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.co.nz; 460OhuiRd;sitesperadult/child$15/10,cabins$100- 1a-p Sun) 10am-2pm Rd; matainfo.co.nz; 616Port wt you. with the beach tobringotherfood butyou’llneed shellfishfrom be borrowed.Youcanharvest alarm clocks,stiltsandHulaHoopscanall rooms.Kayaks,comfortable hot-water bottles, from-it-all hostel withplentyof birdsongand tw $55,f$70-80; .co.nz; 389Opoutere Rd;sitesperperson$15,dm$19-22,d& Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Whangamata i-SITE &Graphics Internet Bartley Information street. main rollingdownthe may aswellbetumbleweeds there summer holidaytown,intheoff-season the populationswellstoover 40,000.Atrue It canbearaucousspotover NewYear, when tosurf,getWhangamata stonedandhookup. Pauanui, thecity’syoungandhornyheadto While Auckland’ssociallyambitiousflockto pop 3880 WHANGAMATA ($22, 10 minutes). Opoutereshuttles between andWhangamata There are glowwormsin even the garden. Persian roomisthelastwordinextravagance. room isthemedandindividuallyscented; the over thetopbutstillstrangely tasteful. Each ported marble andlotsof art,it’scompletely large slabsof recycled kauriand rimu,im- luxury tothemax.Impressively fitted outwith .tawatawa.co.nz; 82Opoutere Rd;r$525-675; five). maximum tage ($100fortwothen$10perextraperson, For areal bargain, bookthe one-roomcot- with aspaandriverside swimminghole. $130/180; p196; hosts anden-suite rooms, sites cabins andcomfortable with views. beachside offering paradise, flat,sheltered tent limited, sobookaheadforthissummer-only just thewaywelike it’.Numbers are strictly 140; Coastal Camping Port Rd)Internet Port access. o A peacefulcountry-stylevillawithkind One of theguardiansof thesecret is Go Kiwi Go Kiwi Tawatawa Lodge p % ) –itsmottois‘remote anduntouched, 07-865 9555;www.copsefield.co.nz; 1055SH25;s/d p ( Opoutere YHA Opoutere % ) is set inattractive, isset lushgardens pi 0800 446549;www.go-kiwi.co.nz)

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) is h far wrong with bacon and eggs far wrong withbaconand eggs for $6. from bigbreakfasts toburritos. Youcan’tgo everything ice-cream parlour/café/barserves coffee is first rate. bagels andburgers. Thefair-trade organic delicious counter food,cooked breakfasts, hand-shaped stools,thisfunkylizarddoes h of up trashymagstospeed the wait. andastack isfriendly andthere’s aTV service of grilledfresh chips. fishandfat,salted The ask forinachippie, Craig’scooksuppieces Rd;meals$4-10; Port Craig’s TraditionalFish &Chips Eating &Drinking this beautifully designed property. water features are liberallysprinkledaround (each suite hasits own).Art,sculpture and painted rooms orthesumptuousgardens what’s more impressive: theelegant,brightly .co.nz; 118BrookPl;ste$275-325; scrupulously clean, unit. self-contained cookies andthenleave youtoenjoythislarge, a bit,make sure you’re upwithmilkand set here.stay The very hostswillfuss around sweet by nothaving grandparents, Italian comeand St; s/d$40/70; aks are available for hire. Facilities are cleanandmodern;bikes andkay- motel units. for backpackers andself-contained complexconsistsofhogging abiggreen barn units $113-180; Rd;dm$24-26,d&tw$63,tr$75, .thesouthpacific.co.nz; 249Port showers and gas barbecues. the WentworthFalls walk,andhastoilets,hot from campinggrounds,it’saccessed DOC 7032; adult/child$9/2) Valley campsite Wentworth Sleeping town and4kmdownagood gravel road. two hours 3kmsouthof oneway;itstarts the excellent walks.The biking,thereorienteering andmountain are kelling nearHauturu (Clarke) Island, fishing runsfromJanuary toApril),snor- surfing,kayaking,fishing (game- Besides Activities Sandz Lazy Lizard Brook Lodge Place Gabry’s Southpacific Accommodation 7.30am-3.30pm) 7.30am-10pm) ( % p pi

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takes 211 COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION goey needs. grocery child $5/2) St; adult/child $5/3; 7km-long scenicjourney takes 25 minutes. daily at11am,12.30pmand2pm.The Station runs vintage trainstoWaikino,leaving Waihi St;adult/childreturn.goldfieldsrailway.org.nz; $15/8) Wrigley Tours GoldMine Martha into it,theminingcompanyruns 1½-hour Marthadeep Mine. Ifyouwanttoget down Walkway Fromherepherically litatnight. the (1904) isthetown’smainlandmark,atmos- the skeleton of aderelict squashed daleks.Opposite thevisitorcentre, golden pastandroundabouts thatlooklike sculptures, informationpanelsabout Waihi’s St,hasinterestingThe maindrag,Seddon Sights &Activities Waihi visitorcentre Information attraction. tourist convert thetown’sgapingwoundintoamajor plansareout soon,andwhenitdoes, afootto to yield3g6gof gold.It’sexpected torun tive, butonlyjust–ittakes atonneof rock ing restarted in1988.Themineisstillproduc- mature. magnificently avenuea show-offy of palms,now phoenix blinged upwithgrandbuildingsand itself est, since1878.Thetownformedquicklyand gold andsilver outof Martha Mine,NZ’srich- open-cast goldmine. They’ve dragging been their riches, Waihi’smainstreet hasagiant hole-in-the-wall ATMs forpeopleto access Wherederogatory sense. mosttownshave ger of becomingone. Thisisn’tmeant inthe Waihi isn’tacomplete hole,butit’sindan- pop 4700 WAIHI hour). one to/fromWaihi($27, limited busservices InterCity Getting There&Away St; 300 Aicken 212 May-Sep) Offers internet Offers May-Sep) access. .org.nz; Seddon St; .org.nz; Seddon After closing downin1952,open-castmin- The monster-sized The The OOADLRGO • Wii COROMANDEL REGION••Waihi Gold Mining Museum Gold Mining Goldfields Railway ( ; call for times. hasfascinatingviewsintothe250m- % h 0508 353947;www.intercity.co.nz) 8am-8pm) h h ( 9am-5pm Oct-Apr, 9am-4.30pm 9am-5pm Oct-Apr, 11am-3pm Thu-Sun) %

07-863 6715;www.waihi ( willtake care of your New World %

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( 07-863 9880;toursadult/ % Cornish Pumphouse 07-863 8386; 54 Kenny 07-863 8386;54Kenny 07-863 8251;www (

% features dis- 07-865 0400; offers offers Pit Rim Pit Rim

.co.nz; 58AdamsSt;s/d$45/85; 6km northeastof in Waihi.Theviews,taking castlelike ecoretreat, perched ona310mridge of research theyhadn’tquite finished this .manawaridge.co.nz; NgatitangataRd;r$650) art. interesting comfy beds,qualitylinen,polished floors and cottages. They’re beautifullydecked out with inoneofstaying thetwogorgeous modern after-hoursgardens alltoyourself ifyou’re Rd;r$250) .waterlily.co.nz; 441Pukekauri agoodchatExpect over breakfast. roomswithprivatecomfortable bathrooms. selves, thisold-fashioned buttasteful B&Bhas ing couplewhoare inveterate travellers them- Westwind B&B Sleeping forest theodd andaffords view. sea farmlandand country trackthatcutsthrough Rd;entryfrom$15) 8218; Mathers of Waihi.There’s acafé on-site. peacocks andpretty things,7kmsouthwest free; Rd;adult/child$8.50/ www.waterlily.co.nz; 441Pukekauri history and a gallery. plays andmodelsof theregion’s gold-mining port hub, stoppingoutside thevisitorcentre. Lots of comeinandoutof buses thistrans- Getting There& Away chicken withapricot) is surprisinglynice. massive retro andtheslightly fare (like tandoori are than thecavernous dining room,butservings local council.Thecosybarismore appealing grandchambersThese once belonged tothe 22 HaszardSt;mains$16-28; and wood-fired pizza. fair-trade organic coffee, cooked breakfasts Ti-treepunga-shaded outdoorseating, serves inacute littlewoodenbuildingwith Housed dinner $17-24; Ti-tree Café Eating keep youwarm in winter. earthy feel –withMexican-style dome fires to and lime-plastered strawwalls,roomshave an entirely of recycled railwaytimber,mudbrick the entire of Bay Plenty,are incredible. Made Manawa Ridge Ridge Manawa Track RoadMountainBike Mathers Gardens Waterlily Waterlily Gardens Waterlily Chambers WineBar&Restaurant h 10am-4pm Oct-Apr) ( % h

( 07-863 8668;14HaszardSt;brunch$5-17, breakfast & lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Fri &Sat) breakfast &lunchTue-Sun, dinnerFri % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

Mp p196; (Map 07-863 7208;westwindgarden@xtra

Mp p196; (Map

h Mp p196; (Map is18acres of ponds, p lunch Thu-Sat, dinner Mon-Sat) lunch Thu-Sat,dinnerMon-Sat) isarugged cross- % ) Runbyacharm- % 07-863 9400;www % 07-863 8267;www

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07-863 7474; 07-863 7474; ( % 07-863

nomto centre. information fares starting from $1. the Auckland–Tauranga route, withadvance .co.nz; Athenree Rd;sitesperperson$17,cabinss/d$50/55, two daily buses to/fromAuckland($33,two dailybuses services to Whangamata ($27, toWhangamata services one hour). Tauranga ($18,onehour),andlessfrequent three hours), Thames($18,45minutes) and InterCity lonelyplanet.com 16, dinner$22-30; accommodation. smart to 7.30pm). thermal pools(adult/child $6.50/4,open10am units $95-190; Holiday Park has abarbecuearea witha water feature. of It’simpressively sand. andeven maintained $130-160; Rd;sitesperadult/child$20/12,cabins$80-120,units Seaforth Holiday Park fridge anddirect accessto has aTV, the surf. views. Thetastefully furnisheddownstairs flat with absolute beachfrontsea andspectacular xtra.co.nz; 3ShawRd;d/tr$120/150) smorgasbord of options. sleeping with apool,gym,spa,beautifulkitchen and units $140-172; 15 BeachRd;sitesperadult/child$20/14,cabins$67-155, 10 HolidayPark 20 WilsonRd; cluding has no road access. which bushtopristineOrokawaBay, through There’s avery popular45-minute walknorth harbour beaches such asbeautifulAnzacBay. Tauranga Harbour, where you’llfindsheltered to Bowentown,onthenorthernlimitsof beach stretchesland. Thelongsandy 9km by11kmoffrom mining,separated farm- The twoplacesare asdissimilarsurfingis it’s Waihi where you’llwanttolinger.Beach While Waihiisinteresting forabriefvisit, pop 1700 WAIHI BEACH Bus hours) andTauranga ($17,onehour). .co.nz) The Another 8kmsouthis Down thesouthend, Beachfront B&B The massive, resort-style The townshiphasahandfulof shops,in- Go Kiwi

(www.nakedbus.com) runs dailyshuttles to Auckland($25,2½ Porch ( pi Bill &Lyn’sBeachmart % ( % h pis (

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( pis % 0508 353947;www.intercity.co.nz) Entry is free if you stay inthe Entry isfree ifyoustay % 0800 446549,07-8660336;www.go-kiwi

( 7am-7pm) ) % hasnabbedastunningstretch h 07-863 5381;www.bowentown.co.nz; 510 COROMANDEL REGION••WaihiBeach 07-863 5600;www.athenreehotsprings 07-863 1330;23WilsonRd; brunch$11-

( % 07-863 5504;www.waihibeach.com; breakfast, lunch&dinner) also has daily buses on alsohasdailybuses , withtwocleanoutdoor ) 07-863 5393;mortons_garage@ , which doublesasthe ) ispretty damnflash, Athenree Hot Springs & Hot Springs Athenree istruetoitsname, Bowentown Beach Waihi BeachTop

( % 07-863 5500; isthe Naked Naked has chitecture and serves excellentlunches. The chitecture andserves breakfasts, decentpizzasand,naturally, closed tominersclosed until1875,aligningthem- ture. Thelocal was anunusual site forgrowinggrapes –the reasonable. it ifyouthought You’dberight portions are large and thepricesextremely May-Sep) 5pm Fri-Sun Moresby St;mains$15-20; Winery linen. for onlysix.Allow $5extra sleeping ing base, Moresby St;dm/d/tw$23/56/56) Backpackers park. car area’s andthemain history atboththestation information boardsabout thewalksand to beboiledfordrinking.You’llfindDOC decent swimminghole. River water willneed there’s afree DOC tramp willbringyoutoDickey’s Flat,where tunnels.Atwo-hour as someheadthrough tracks leadingfromthecarpark;bringatorch before heading back. 4pm daily,dinnerFriday) StationCafé Waikino you canpickupthevintage traintoWaihi. Owharoa Falls where andWaikinoStation, railway lineandtheOhinemuriRiver to 14km westof Waihi.Itfollows thedisused hours (each fromthecarpark, way)andstarts Walkway Historic Gorge boxed text, p369 ). Teselves withthemilitant the Kooti(see protected bya bush. InMaori legend thearea tobe issaid mining andraildetritus,spookilydense the area, inoldMaori taking trails,historic country. There are alsoamazingwalksin Gorge, isoneof thebestshortdrives inthe the bush-linedrampartsof the Karangahake WaihiandPaeroa,The roadbetween through KARANGAHAKE GORGE coffee. excellent dinner $20-28; Flatwhite for diners’ affections. porkbellyandloinofbraised lambcompeting town’s coolestchow-down spot,withslow- Across fromthe carpark, There are arange of shorter walksandloop The very worthwhile4.5km bythebeach, andright Funky, licensed Further up the same road, Further upthesame Mp p196; (Map

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( % h 07-863 1346;21ShawRd;brunch$11-17, % iwi taniwha 07-862 7994;www.goldenowl.co.nz; 3 8.30am-8.30pm) has ar-Latvian-influenced ( managed tokeep this area 07-862 8874;www.ohinemuri.co.nz;

% campsite isaperfect lunch stop h (Map p196 ) takes 1½ 07-863 8640;SH2; 10am-5pm daily Oct-Apr, 10am- 10am-5pm dailyOct-Apr, , asupernaturalcrea- isahandytramp- (Map p196 ) anda hasinventive Ohinemuri Estate Estate Ohinemuri Karangahake Karangahake Golden Owl h 9.30am- 213

COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL COROMANDEL REGION $5-15; the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake icon of Kiwianathatmarkets as‘world itself the birthplaceof &Paeroa Lemon ( L&P), an whole townisanelaborate Kiwiin-joke. It’s Paeroa, don’tworrytoomuch aboutit.The If youfindyourself scratching yourheadin pop 4000 PAEROA sustain hungry hikers. than itscoffee andfood,butthere’s plentyto frombaby(everything bootiestoAsian jade) magical new-age décorandkitschy crafts $110/120). rooms phere of place(double/triple thissecluded style hutandrevel inthecharming atmos- achalet-If youimbibetoomuch, snaffle Tastings are $5,refundable withpurchase. winery importsfruitfromotherregions. 214 Nearby h OOADLRGO • Peo COROMANDEL REGION••Paeroa 9am-4pm) Talisman Café ismore distinguished byits

( % 07-862 8306;SH2;meals h n lly ae itself. water lolly ony here,phernalia isonsale alongwiththelem- the fussisabout.Allmannerof L&P para- is asgoodaplaceanytofindoutwhatall Paeroa isknownforits antique stores. the drawers. Ifpretty crockery isyourthing, andMaoriother pioneer artefacts –lookin ofgrand selection RoyalAlbertporcelainand Rd; adult/child$2/1; ofglimpse thegiant L&P bottles. their parents totake thisroute justtocatch a Still, generations of Kiwikidshave pestered more shopfront even on every darklyironic. tomake theubiquitousL&Pbranding serves Cola AmatilandproducedinAucklandonly drink isnowownedbyglobal monster Coca- famous inNZ’.Thefactthatthebeloved fizzy L&P Café &Bar L&P Café The small 8.30am-8pm) hasatruck-stopambience,but museum

( h % 10.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) 07-862 7773;SH2;mains$11-19;

( % 07-862 8486;37Belmont lonelyplanet.com hasa lonelyplanet.com

215 COROMANDEL REGION REGION COROMANDEL