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COROMANDEL REGION and an Aura of Rugged Individualism Hangs Like Mistoverand Anauraofruggedindividualismhangslike Andspecialregion

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COROMANDEL REGION and an Aura of Rugged Individualism Hangs Like Mistoverand Anauraofruggedindividualismhangslike Andspecialregion © Lonely Planet Publications 194 lonelyplanet.com Coromandel Region 195 History This whole area, including the peninsula, COROMANDEL REGION FACTS Coromandel Region the islands and both sides of the gulf, was Eat buckets of bivalves at Whitianga’s Scallop known to Maori as Hauraki. Various iwi Festival ( p206 ) (tribes) held claim to pockets of it, includ- Drink boiled water from a mountain campsite ing the Pare Hauraki branch of the Tainui Read The Penguin History of New Zealand (2003) by tribes and others descended from Te Arawa the late Michael King, an Opoutere resident and earlier migrations. Polynesian artefacts Listen to Shona Laing, the quintessential Looking a bit like the side view of a hand with its middle finger raised (perhaps aimed at and evidence of moa-hunting have been Coromandel greenie the nearby metropolis), the Coromandel Peninsula juts defiantly into the Pacific east of found, pointing to around 1000 years of Watch the birds in the Firth of Thames ( below ) Auckland and forms the eastern edge of the Hauraki Gulf. Its dramatic, mountainous spine continuous occupation. Swim at Waihi Beach ( p213 ) bisects it into two very distinct parts. The Hauraki iwi were some of the first to Festival The peninsula-wide Pohutukawa Festival be exposed to European traders. The region’s (www.pohutukawafestival.co.nz) The eastern edge has some of the North Island’s best white-sand beaches. Marinas and proximity to Auckland, safe anchorages and Tackiest tourist attraction L&P-addicted ready supply of valuable timber initially lead Paeroa ( p214 ) cafés cater to the chattering set in the wealthier enclaves, while sandy toes and board shorts to a booming economy. Kauri logging was big Go green Witness forest regeneration at Driving are the norm elsewhere. The cutesy historic gold-mining towns on the west side escape the business on the peninsula. Allied to the timber Creek Railway ( p202 ) worst of the influx, their muddy wetlands and stony bays holding less appeal for the masses. trade was shipbuilding, which took off in 1832 This coast has long been a refuge for alternative lifestylers – although the hippy communes when a mill was established at Mercury Bay. resulted in Maori losing most of their lands have gradually given way to organic farms and Buddhist retreats. Things got tougher once the kauri around the coast became scarce and the loggers had by the 1880s. Even today there is a much lower Maori presence on the peninsula than Down the middle, the mountains are crisscrossed with walking tracks, allowing trampers to penetrate deeper into the bush for timber. COROMANDEL REGION in neighbouring districts. to lose themselves (hopefully only figuratively) among large tracts of untamed bush where Kauri dams, which used water power to pro- pel the huge logs to the coast, were built. By kauri trees once towered and are starting to do so again. At the base of the peninsula the the 1930s virtually no kauri remained and the Climate Hauraki Plains were once massive swampy wetlands, rich with bird life. Pockets remain, with industry died. Being mountainous, the region attracts more Miranda being the premier holiday spot for feathered jetsetters and their admirers. Gold was first discovered in NZ near rainfall (3000mm or even 4500mm a year) Coromandel Town in 1852. Although this than elsewhere on the east coast. Although relatively close to Auckland, the Coromandel offers easy access to splendid isola- first rush was short-lived, more gold was dis- tion. Some of the more remote communities in these parts are still accessed by gravel roads, covered around Thames in 1867 and later Getting There & Around COROMANDEL REGION Car is the only option for accessing some of and an aura of rugged individualism hangs like mist over this compact and special region. in other places. The peninsula is also rich in semiprecious gemstones, such as quartz, the more remote areas, but be careful to check agate, amethyst and jasper. A fossick on any hire agreements as there are plenty of gravel west-coast beach can be rewarding. roads and a few streams to ford. Most of them HIGHLIGHTS Despite successful interactions with are in good nick and even a small car can cope Far North Travelling remote gravel roads under a crim- Coromandel Europeans for decades, the Hauraki iwi unless the weather’s been particularly wet. son canopy of ancient pohutukawa trees in were some of the hardest hit by colonisation. Daily buses on the Auckland-to-Tauranga Far North Coromandel ( p203 ) Unscrupulous dealings by settlers and gov- route pass through Thames and Waihi, while Coromandel Otama ernment to gain access to valuable resources others loop through Coromandel Town, Staking out your own patch of footprint-free Town Opito Whitianga and Tairua. Thames is also well sand at Opoutere Beach ( p210 ), Otama connected to the Waikato. Beach ( p204 ) or Opito Beach ( p204 ) Whitianga Hahei MAORI NZ: COROMANDEL REGION It’s definitely worth considering the beau- Hot Water Beach Exploring hidden islands, caves and bays by tiful ferry ride from Auckland via Waiheke Although it has a long and rich Maori his- kayak from Whitianga ( p205 ), Hahei ( p208 ) Island to Coromandel Town (see p203 ). tory (see above ), the Coromandel doesn’t or Coromandel Town ( p201 ) Coromandel Forest Park offer many opportunities to engage with Opoutere MIRANDA Burning your butt in a freshly dug thermal the culture. Pioneer pursuits such as gold- It’s a pretty name for a settlement on the pool in the sands of Hot Water Beach ( p208 ) mining and kauri logging have been given swampy Firth of Thames, just an hour’s drive much more attention, although this is start- Pigging out on smoked mussels in Coro- from Auckland. The two reasons to come here ing to change. mandel Town ( p201 ) are splashing around the thermal pools and Historic pa (fortified village) sites are dotted Penetrating the mystical depths of the dense bird-watching – but doing both at the same around, with the most accessible being Paku bush of Coromandel Forest Park ( p200 ) and time might be considered impolite. Karangahake Gorge ( p209 ). There are others at Te Puru ( p200 ), Karangahake Gorge ( p213 ) This is one of the most accessible spots for Opito Beach ( p204 ), Hahei ( p208 ) and Hot studying waders or shore birds all year round. Water Beach ( p208 ). TELEPHONE CODE: 07 www.thecoromandel.com www.ew.govt.nz The vast mud flat is teeming with aquatic 196 COROMANDEL REGION •• Miranda lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com COROMANDEL REGION •• Thames 197 0 20 km worms and crustaceans, which attract thou- system of government advances resulted in COROMANDEL REGION 0 12 miles sands of Arctic-nesting shore birds over the Maori debt and forced land sales. Cape Fletcher Bay Colville AC22 B D winter – 43 species of wader have been spotted Port Jackson Coromandel 21 Coastal Walkway 29 INFORMATION Kauri Grove..................................5 B3 here. The two main species are the bar-tailed Information Stony Bay DOC Kauaeranga Visitor Centre...1 B4 Miranda Hot Springs....................6 A5 Fantail 30 (Pollen St) Coromandel Miranda Shorebird Centre............7 A5 godwit and the lesser or red knot, but it isn’t Post Office Bay 20 Forest Park Port Charles SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ohinemuri Estate Winery.............8 C6 unusual to see turnstones, sandpipers and Thames i-SITE (%07-868 7284; www.thamesinfo. 1 Broken Hills Gold-Mine Workings..2 C4 Purangi Estate..............................9 C3 ὈὈMt Moehau Te Anaputa the odd vagrant red-necked stint. One godwit co.nz; 206 Pollen St; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm (892m) Point Butterfly & Orchid Garden.......(see 19) Rapaura Water Gardens.............10 B4 Highzone......................................3 B3 Twin Oaks Riding Ranch............11 C3 tagged here was tracked making an 11,570km Sat & Sun) Information and internet access. Te Hope Waikawau Karangahake Gorge Historic Waiau Waterworks....................12 B3 nonstop flight from Alaska. Short-haul trav- Waiaro Bay Walkway..................................4 B6 Waterlily Gardens......................13 C6 Waikawau 32 Otatu ellers include the pied oystercatcher and the Sights SLEEPING Hauraki Colville Bay Great Mercury Island Billy Goat Track Campsite...........14 B4 threatened wrybill from the South Island, and The i-SITE stocks free Historic Places Trust Colville Gulf S O U T H Broken Hills Campsite................(see 2) Red Mercury Island banded dotterels and pied stilts. self-tour pamphlets of Thames’ significant 16 P A C I F I C Coastal Motor Lodge.................15 B4 Waitete Bay Mercury Islands The Miranda Shorebird Centre (Map p196 ; %09- buildings. The Trust also runs 45-minute ὈὈὈὈὈ25 O C E A N ColvilleStanley Farm..............................Island 16 B2 Kennedy Bay Copsefield B&B..........................17 C5 Amodeo Bay Kennedy Bay 232 2781; www.miranda-shorebird.org.nz; 283 East Coast Rd; tours (on the hour) of the interesting School of Otama Dickey's Flat Campsite...............18 C6 2 New Chum's Beach Opito Dickson Holiday Park.................19 B4 h9am-5pm) has bird-life displays, hires out Mines & Mineral Museum (%07-868 6227; 101 Cochrane Beach Matarangi Bay Whangapoua Fantail Bay Campsite..................20 A1 Beach Otama Opito binoculars and sells useful bird-watching St; adult/child $5/2; h11am-3pm Wed-Sun), which has Matarangi Fletcher Bay Backpackers............21 A1 Oamuru Bay Kuaotunu Ohinau Island Long Airfield Matarangi Fletcher Bay Campsite................22 A1 pamphlets ($2). Nearby are a hide and sev- an extensive collection of NZ rocks, minerals Whangapoua Bay Shelley Coromandel Huia Lodge................................23 B4 Beach Harbour eral walks (30 minutes to two hours). The and fossils. The oldest section (1868) was part Waimate Island Town Te Jacaranda Lodge........................24 B2 25 Waitaia Bay Motutapere Island 24 Rerenga Mahamudra Centre...................25 A2 centre offers clean bunk-style accommoda- of a Methodist Sunday school, situated on a Whanganui Island Airstrip Waiau 11 Te Whanganui A Manawa Ridge..........................26 C6 Coromandel Harbour Castle Rock Hei Marine Reserve Miranda Holiday Park................(see 6) tion (dorm beds/double rooms $18/50) with Maori burial ground.
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