Place of the

The trusty Toyota Hilux makes short work on fording the Runde River at Chamuluvati crossing. the Elephants

WORDS & PICTURES STEPHEN CUNLIFFE Chilojo, Chipinda, Chinguli, Chitove, Chamuluvati, Chamachinzu… the alliterative place names of ’s roll off the tongue, dripping with the promise of exotic 4x4 adventure. Gonarezhou – meaning ‘the place of elephants’ – is just that: an untamed 4941km2 wilderness that is home to an estimated 11 000 cantankerous pachyderms. Having last explored the elephant-festooned Gonarezhou 19 years before, Stephen Cunliffe considered it high time that he took his old friend Duncan Gutsche and a trusty Toyota Hilux back to rediscover the magic of this oft-overlooked Zimbabwean wilderness. Above left You are unlikely to bump into many vehicles on the mountainous Chionja track as it traces a route through the far north of Gonarezhou. Below left The spotted hyena is the most regularly seen of the large carnivores in Gonarezhou. Below centre Waterbuck are a common sight amongst the phragmites reeds at Chipinda Pools. Below right A yellow billed stork greets a passing hippo.

he lion roars grew steadily This was the raw and resurgent the languid Limpopo. It was September, louder, echoing off the unseen Gonarezhou at its very best. I could tell so fording the river involved little more Chilojo Cliffs. With no my travel companion felt the same way than a short splash for our Hilux. Having moon or stars visible above, when, feigning indifference, he casually negotiated the river, we’d traced the theT darkness beyond our campfire was observed, “Well, it sounds like he’s Zimbabwean border northeast, with absolute. Both Duncan and I pulled getting a little closer… So, how far away nothing more than a flock of crested our chairs a little closer to the dancing do you reckon that guy is, anyway?” guinea fowl and a rundown police check- flames, blaming an imaginary chill in Our exploration of the gloriously wild point for company. the night air rather than the guttural Gonarezhou had begun five days earlier, Wearing flip-flops, fatigues and a torn grunts bouncing back off the rock face when we’d exited the rain-soaked Kruger T-shirt, an ‘officer’ exited the bullet- across the river. Taking a deep swig Park at Pafuri, and taken a short detour riddled old police outpost to remove of lager, I fumbled for the through Mozambique before entering the flimsy wire strung across the road. powerful torch next to my chair. The Zimbabwe: a welcome alternative to Utterly absorbed in his cell phone, he’d hairs on the back of my neck bristled and tackling ! Leaving the paved waved us on without even looking up my heart thumped a little louder as the roads at the South African border, we’d from it. We’d driven on, thankful to have king of the beasts continued to proclaim entered a maze of sandy tracks that negotiated a notorious Mozambican his territory loudly. soon converged on the south bank of police check with such ease. Two

30 | SA4x4 December 2015 TRAVEL • GONAREZHOU hours after crossing the Limpopo, we’d already arrived at Chicualacuala, filled out departure forms, and made our way over to the Zimbabwe side of the border at Sango. The border formalities at Sango had been painfully slow. The buckled wheels of Zimbabwean officialdom turned at glacial speed. A junior government employee was dispatched in search of diesel for an ancient generator, as immigration and customs officials sought to get their computers whirring back to life. We’d been the first tourists to pass through Sango in 48 hours; and I couldn’t help feeling that we might still be there when the next group arrived in a couple of days’ time! Eventually, we had all the necessary documentation and receipts, and – after patiently submitting to a further 20 Above Gonarezhou’s elephant population rebounded to 11 000, but a recent surge in poaching activity threatens to derail this recovery. Below A huge Nile crocodile basks on the banks of the Runde River. minutes of petty police harassment (see Zimbabwe Shakedown sidebar) – we’d finally left the border, entering directly into southern Gonarezhou. Having negotiated four border posts in one long bureaucratic morning, I found myself daring to hope that rumours of a soon-to-be-established seasonal Limpopo border crossing might, in fact be true. The proposed second border crossing between South Africa and Zimbabwe would be a tourist facility, providing South African overlanders with direct 4x4 access into Zimbabwe during the dry winter months. After all, it’s been 13 long years since 9 December 2002, when the ZIMBABWE SHAKEDOWN Zimbabwean, South African and It is sad to say, but, in the last decade, Zimbabwe’s police state has grown Mozambican heads of state signed a dramatically while simultaneously degenerating into a largely ineffective force treaty establishing the Great Limpopo concerned primarily with manning the ubiquitous police checkpoints that plague Transfrontier Park. At the core of the every road journey in Zim. Police checks are a dime a dozen, but those on the agreement was an audacious Peace- main A4 trade route between South Africa’s Beitbridge and Harare tend to be the Parks-inspired plan to re-establish a most nefarious. 60km wide ‘conservation corridor’ When driving from Gonarezhou to the Botswana border, we encountered no following old migration routes that fewer than 21 police roadblocks, with the worst checkpoint being on the arterial would enable wildlife once again to roam unhindered between the three A4 between Ngundu and . Our brand-new Hilux was pulled over and countries’ protected areas. issued multiple US$20 spot fines for having “insufficient reflectors” even as For Gonarezhou, the envisaged a procession of ancient, smoke-belching local vehicles crawled through the corridor would not only provide roadblock unhindered. When I refused to pay the irrational and receipt-less spot elephants with more secure access to fines being demanded, an hour of protracted negotiation ensued. In the end the , but would also link we parted with a bag of apples, some stale crackers and a tin of tuna to get our Gonarezhou to the Kruger and Limpopo driver’s licences back and permission to proceed − with a final parting comment national parks down south. While an still ringing in our ears: “You guys are SO LUCKY that you got lenient cops like us!” undeniably exciting concept on paper,

December 2015 SA4x4 | 31 Duncan enjoying the elephantine view from Gota picnic site. TRAVEL • GONAREZHOU

TOYOTA HILUX D-4D The Toyota Hilux 3.0-litre D-4D Legend 45 is – as the name suggests – a legendary vehicle. With its four-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine and potent low-range 4x4 capabilities, it kicks out sufficient power to overcome even the most stubborn road conditions, sweeping up long stretches of treacherous river sand without skipping a beat. The 2015 model we drove was an automatic, and although I prefer a manual gearbox, the automatic transmission did make for easy cruising on the longer road-trip days when we were driving to and from the national park. Decent fuel consumption, durability and extreme reliability complete an awesome package. Even the few small criticisms I might have had with earlier models – such as their “being a hard ride” and having less-than-comfortable back seats – have been addressed in the 2015 update, and even more

so in the forthcoming generation. This is a vehicle that I would not Top The intrepid explorers rediscover an abandoned route only wholeheartedly recommend, but would also put at the top of to Chipinda Point, while in search of the original Gayiseni my wish list for the next 4x4 that I will own. campsite. Above Elephant poaching is on the rise everywhere in Africa and Gonarezhou is not immune to this menace. corridor discussions with the local park. Under the guidance of Hugo and filled scene below, Gerry Whitehead communities are ongoing, and those Elsabe van der Westhuizen, and aided – a Gonarezhou ranger from 1975-80 – park staff members we spoke to sounded by more than 100 FZS employees and spoke of Hugo in glowing terms: “That despondent because of the lengthy delays. a US$1-million annual budget, the park youngster has really turned this place Despite the Transfrontier Park having has undergone a dramatic transformation around, and the fact that Gonarezhou yet to realise its full potential, the and wildlife populations have been is on the up once more is thanks to his resurgent Gonarezhou is mounting a rebounding strongly. untiring efforts.” It was high praise for strong comeback, and the establishment Even before meeting the FZS project Hugo and FZS from a Gonarezhou old- of a Mozambican wildlife conservancy manager, we bumped into a group of timer who had seen the irrepressible park across the border is also progressing friendly Zimbabwean locals at Bopomela at its very best and worst over the years. well. The revival began in 2006, when, campsite. They kindly invited us over Entering Gonarezhou from the after decades of heavy poaching, the to join them for a cup of tea and to southeast gave us an opportunity to Zimbabwean government invited check out the dense concentrations of explore the less-visited south of the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) to bream in the receding Runde in front of park. We had been forewarned to avoid get involved in supporting the neglected their camp. As we gazed at the fish- overnighting at the Mabalauta southern

December 2015 SA4x4 | 33 Top Impala and kudu are two of the most plentiful antelope species. Above Any 4x4 with decent clearance should be more than capable of tackling the park’s roads and river crossings during the dry season. Below Dainty klipspringer and a family of Burchell’s zebra add to the herbivore diversity in Gonarezhou.

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ENRAGED ELEPHANTS

Gonarezhou’s elephants have had a rough time over the years. Rampant poaching and persecution combined with limited exposure to vehicles has resulted in a population of agitated and sometimes aggressive elephants. While the recent past (since FZS became involved) has seen the elephant situation improve dramatically, they still carry a lot of long-term baggage from the bad old days. Some are more relaxed than others, and our experience was that the bulls tended to be more laid-back than the highly-strung breeding herds. But the key to safely viewing these elephants is to exercise caution, always to treat them with respect, and not to try and approach them with your vehicle. In fact, during our visit, a Chilo Safari Lodge vehicle which had repeatedly approached a visibly agitated elephant was rammed. The enraged beast did some real damage with its tusks; but, despite the vehicle taking a real pounding, rather miraculously no-one was injured or killed. You can find a clip of the incident (taken by one of the tourists on the vehicle) on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V79KGkjOTw section headquarters, and to focus rather off-roading and bundu-bashing are somewhat, and the wildlife became on Muwatomba Pools and Rossi Pools. not to be attempted, as the last of the steadily more prolific and self-assured. These two exclusive-use campsites Mozambican border minefields still Our campsite for the next couple of overlook the Mwanezi River and are await clearing in the southeast! nights was the picturesque Chamuluvati reputed to be among the park’s finest From Rossi pools, we snaked our in the northeast, and although it is camping options. The river demarcates way north through the heart of the renowned for its high densities of the park boundary, and is both scenic national park. Despite having a number elephant, the unseasonably cool and and a magnet for elephants during the of perennial natural pans – including wet ‘ghuti’ weather was keeping dry season. It should be noted, however, Gorwe, Lion and Malugwe – the central temperatures low and elephant activity that low numbers of visitors and the region is the least-explored section, on the river to a minimum. In fact, it was hunting across the river in the Malipati and consequently the wildlife remains a real compliment to Gonarezhou that, Safari Area make the wildlife – and skittish. We saw herds of nervous impala despite days of grey and drizzly weather, especially the elephants – anything but and uneasy elephants, and we even we were still having such a good time relaxed in the southern region. (See startled a stretch of gangly giraffe, but exploring the park. Enraged Elephants sidebar.) none of these creatures hung around Not far from our campsite was But, what the remote southern for long. A legacy of heavy poaching Machaniwa Pan, where despite the and central sections lack in terms of has exacerbated the situation, making unseasonal rain, the water was rapidly habituated wildlife, they more than animals understandably nervy. receding. Storks, herons, warthogs, make up for with an intoxicating, raw, When bumping along the waterbuck, baboons and impala joined wilderness vibe. It feels truly wild, and Nyavasikana River track as we closed the feeding frenzy, while jackals called there are precious few vehicles to intrude in on the Runde River in the north of soulfully as they trotted around the upon your private nature experience. the park, I sensed a change. The feeling fringes of the gigantic pan. It was a Irrespective of the low vehicle numbers, of true remoteness began to dissipate great place to stretch our legs and enjoy

December 2015 SA4x4 | 35 In the absence of grass these elephant bulls turn to the trees to meet their daily requirement of 250 kilograms of plant matter.

a picnic lunch before heading further big tuskers – is being driven by the Wild dogs have also done exceptionally east to check out the Save/Runde river Mozambicans. To make matters worse, well, with over 200 dogs now confluence near an old abandoned they’re not only using guns but also recorded in eight to 10 packs scattered tsetse-fly control post. It was in this lacing marula fruits with Temik and then throughout the park. Herbivore northeastern region, especially up leaving the toxic fruits alongside major populations have also rebounded against the boundary that elephant trails,” Hugo explained. strongly, and the outstanding diversity we began to see the sobering signs The net result has been a steady rise in of game we saw during our visit was of elephant poaching first-hand. Old elephant mortalities, with 80 elephants further evidence skeletons with bleached bones and lost to poaching this year alone. In order of this remarkable recovery. shattered skulls spoke of the scale of the to address the poaching challenges and It’s not just wildlife that’s doing slaughter during the previous elephant bolster law-enforcement efforts, FZS well in Gonarezhou; tourism is also genocide, but there were also worrying recently acquired two detection dogs to on the up, and the enactment of a signs of more recent poaching incidents: augment its growing anti-poaching scout comprehensive tourism strategy is a fresh carcass right next to the road force. Luckily, it’s not all doom and urgently needed to safeguard the between the Save/Runde Gate and gloom for Gonarezhou’s beleaguered wilderness aspect that is unquestionably Gayiseni campsite hinted that all was elephants. A number of very real Gonarezhou’s greatest asset. The not well in this wild paradise. challenges exist but, as Hugo explained, proposed management plan focuses The following day, taking advantage “Although we are devoting serious on sustainable tourism development of the cool conditions, we opted to resources to tackling the scourge of − which involves the restricting of drive through the mountainous north poaching, the situation is perhaps not as permanent structures to the periphery to Chipinda. Here, we caught up with dire as it first sounds when you consider of park, while allowing tented camps the FZS project manager in an attempt that the elephant population has been at designated concession sites within to reach a better understanding of the increasing at an annual rate of 5.9% over the park, and a handful of low-impact current situation in Gonarezhou. the past five years.” campsites in the wilderness areas. “That elephant carcass that you saw Other key wildlife species have fared With 6000-8000 visitors per year – near Gayiseni yesterday was one shot by even better. The lion population, down and an emphasis on growing regional Mozambican poachers in February this to a mere 20 felines when FZS arrived, tourism – Gonarezhou is no longer year. With an estimated 11 000 elephants has quadrupled under their nine-year the sleepy backwater of a decade ago: in the park (more than the entire watch; and friends of mine enjoyed a strong rationale for both a tourism population next door in Mozambique), three lion sightings during a week-long management plan and to visit the park a lot of poaching – especially of Gonarezhou visit in September. sooner rather than later.

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The ‘main road’ from Chipinda Pools to the Chilojo Cliffs snakes it way through scenic mountainous terrain. Refuelling at Chamuluvati campsite; increasing the tyre pressures just before exiting the park; the Engel fridge-freezer is a ‘must-have’ accessory for any 4x4 enthusiast who wants frozen braai meat and icy cold beers on day seven!

. SAFARI GEAR 4x4 MegaWorld supplied a compressor, useful for re-inflating our supply of braai meat frozen and we comprehensive range of safari kit to tyres after a soft-sand river crossing were even willing to sacrifice a few make this trip possible. We made full as well as after fixing the inevitable perishables to the icy cause of ensuring use of six steel jerry cans, which ensured puncture. our beers were always well chilled! sufficient diesel for us to explore the Just as a safeguard, we carried a hi-lift Our navigation needs were taken care entire park and not have to skimp on the jack and full recovery gear, including of by NavWorld, who supplied a Garmin game drives. shackles and a snatch strap – luckily Nuvi 2689LMT, which was loaded Heavy-duty 25-litre plastic water cans these did not have to be deployed. with the latest Tracks4Africa mapset – and food storage boxes allowed us to be Last, but certainly not least, we also essential for ensuring we were on the totally self-sufficient. had use of an Engel 40-litre compressor right tracks when road signs weren’t up Also in our kit bag was a T-Max air fridge: a boon for keeping our healthy to scratch.

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As we shook hands and climbed into Our first stop was Chamachinzu it was time to hit the road and race our Hilux, Hugo left us with a parting viewpoint atop the cliff’s eastern the sunset home. Two playful hyenas thought: “Most of those tourists we just buttress. We sat in enraptured awe as interrupted our journey with their mentioned enter the park at Chipinda, the sky cleared and elephants emerged antics, but we couldn’t spend long visit the Chilojo Cliffs, check out along the river far below. An hour later with the mischievous creatures as we the Save/Runde confluence and then we finally tore ourselves away and needed to be back in camp before dark. head off to their next destination. drove across to the western vantage At the campsite, a relaxed elephant My hope is that people will get over point. Now, at 4pm, soft rays streamed bull greeted our arrival; the old boy this Chilojo-Cliffs-and-confluence through the last fragments of cloud spent the entire night feeding obsession. As you guys have seen, and bathed the cliffs in surreal shades noisily around camp. I found his there is so much more to this park. In of pink and Martian-orange. It was a branch-breaking and noisy chewing my opinion, the central section is a spectacular scene, especially with the reassuring; it lulled me into a deep, must-visit area for any 4x4 enthusiast sky washed clean of smoke and dust. dream-filled slumber. who loves rougher roads and true Sitting atop the Chilojo Cliffs I dreamt of the Gonarezhou: a wilderness.” with only baboons and baobabs for wilderness rich in wildlife and largely As we left the Chipinda park company, Duncan and I were in devoid of visitors where (thanks to the headquarters, the strange ‘ghuti’ complete agreement: this was one commitment and dedication of Hugo, weather that had dominated our six seriously special place. Staring out Elsabe and the entire FZS team) the days in the park to date finally began over the resplendent Runde and its park is rebounding and rediscovering to lift. Hugo had warned us that in thirsty elephant herds, we quaffed the its former glory. There is no disputing previous years the thick, drizzly, grey tastiest beers of our entire trip. As the that Gonarezhou is one of southern mists had been known to persist for up sun sank lower, the cliffs turned from Africa’s finest game reserves for to two weeks without respite! So, with burnt orange to crimson and gold. The nature-loving 4x4 aficionados, but the sun threatening to break through, relentless rain of the preceding week herein lies the challenge: while the we wasted no time in getting back to ensured that the colours popped and park’s steadily growing popularity will the Chilojo Cliffs. Excitement levels the scene sprang vividly to life. help finance the cost of safeguarding were high as we imagined the cliffs in With the sun sinking low on the this wild Eden, it won’t remain off the all their sun-bathed glory. horizon, we could delay no longer: radar for much longer.

The Hilux surges across the rocky Runde causeway at Chipinda Pools.

December 2015 SA4x4 | 39 ROUTE GUIDE

Icy cold beers and medium rare steaks were the order of the day at Chilojo campsite

The picturesque Runde Gorge campsite

WHERE TO STAY the distinct feeling that she was the to reliably obtain diesel and petrol is Lodge accommodation is restricted ONLY Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife in . Although the introduction to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge (www. Reservation Agent who cared. of the US dollar has gone a long way chilogorge.com), a new ZimParks- When the phones are working, you towards ensuring reliable fuel supplies operated tented camp at Chipinda, can reach her on +263 4 706 077/8, throughout Zimbabwe, it would be and run-down park accommodation otherwise email her directly on:/ prudent to carry extra fuel reserves and at Mabalauta. Developed multi-stand [email protected]/or try to fill up whenever possible. campgrounds can be found at Chipinda, [email protected] Chinguli and Mabalauta, which have To those who love walking safaris as BORDER CROSSINGS basic facilities such as running water, much as they love 4x4ing, Ant Kaschula Seasoned overlanders who loathe the flush toilets, showers and thatched lapas is one of the most respected walking delays and irritations of using Beitbridge Although spotlessly clean when we guides in Southern Africa. During should seriously consider exiting South visited, the facilities are crying out for the dry season, he runs Gonarezhou Africa at Pafuri in northern Kruger refurbishment. Apart from these main Bushcamps from a private operator’s (08:00-16:00) and travelling through campgrounds, camping is restricted to site on the Runde River in the shadow of Mozambique to Chicualacuala, where a handful of gloriously wild sole-use the mesmerising Chilojo Cliffs. Check you enter directly into Gonarezhou campsites scattered across the sprawling out www.gonarezhou-bushcamps.com at Sango border post. (08:00-18:00). reserve. True bush enthusiasts will for more. Another circuitous option is to travel via gravitate towards these well-positioned, Botswana and the efficient Plumtree- unfenced sites where facilities are limited PARK RULES Ramokwebane border post. to a braai pit and long-drop latrine. The speed limit is 40km/h and no off- Remember that all foreign-registered Most visitors concentrate on the road driving is permitted. Stick to the vehicles entering Zimbabwe will be prime northern campsites surrounding designated tracks and drive only during the renowned Chilojo Cliffs: Chilojo daylight hours. Removal of any fauna 1 and 2, Fishans, Directors and Hlaro. or flora, as with firewood collection, is There are, however, some other stunning strictly prohibited. Provided that you sites situated on the southern bank obtain a permit, fishing is allowed. of the Runde further to the east, and Muwatomba and Rossi Pools are DWNP PARK AND VEHICLE FEES good options on the Rates are subject to change; but, as in the south. SADC residents, we were charged a Campsite bookings are supposed to be camping fee of US$29 per person per made through the Zimbabwe National night, a daily conservation fee of $6 Parks Headquarters in Harare, www. per day, and a once-off vehicle entry zimparks.org, although this is invariably fee of US$10. a frustrating experience unless you are fortunate enough to connect with the FUEL Camping on the banks indefatigable Christina Muhiro. After Fuel is not available anywhere inside of the Runde River countless phone calls and emails, I got the national park, and the nearest place

40 | SA4x4 December 2015 TRAVEL • GONAREZHOU charged third-party insurance (US$30) should have all the necessary emergency Tracks4Africa onto your GPS and get and carbon tax (US$15), payable equipment and recovery gear, including your hands on the free park-issued map in cash. Expect delays to get this a tyre-repair kit, an air compressor and (soft copy available at time of booking), paperwork processed, as an ancient pressure gauge, a spade, sand tracks, a which has been recently updated and is smoke-belching generator (I guess that’s hi-lift jack and extra fuel. A GPS and filled with useful information. why we need to pay carbon tax!) has satellite phone could prove invaluable. to be fuelled and coaxed into life to Also, carry plenty of drinking water and VEHICLE REQUIRED generate the necessary receipts. watch your fuel consumption carefully. Softroaders shouldn’t have a problem exploring the park during the dry season ROAD CONDITIONS AND RIVER FOOD AND PROVISIONS (May to November), but a hardcore CROSSINGS We opted to bring most of our food off-road vehicle would be best if you The road conditions inside the park and provisions from South Africa, as want to explore the less-visited central vary from good to mildly challenging. there is almost nothing available when and southern sections of Gonarezhou, When traversing the less-visited central approaching Gonarezhou from the as well as for tackling the Runde River section of the park, we found most of Mozambican side. Firewood can be crossings after any rain. We drove a the tracks to be in reasonably good purchased at the park’s main entry points. Toyota Hilux 3.0-litre D4-D double cab condition, although a couple of drainage with 17-inch Bridgestone Dueler ATs, lines and eroded patches required a little RISKS which easily overcame the roads and more concentration to negotiate. The Gonarezhou is a malaria area, so take rivers of Gonarezhou. roads through the mountainous north of the necessary precautions; prophylactics the park meander through the Chionja are advised. Watch out for the potent sun GONAREZHOU PREDATOR PROJECT Range and tend to be very rocky in in summer and keep well-hydrated at Since 2008, the African Wildlife places, with numerous drainage lines, all times. The hot, wet summer months Conservation Fund has been but these are fairly straightforward to coincide with increased scorpion and trying to establish the abundance, navigate outside of the rainy season. snake activity, so wear shoes at night distribution and conservation status Five of the six river crossings on the and remain vigilant. of the large carnivore species found Runde are sand-bottom crossings, but in Gonarezhou. If you are fortunate – provided the water levels have not NAVIGATION enough to see wild dog, lion, cheetah, swollen after heavy rains – any 4x4 Gonarezhou can be accessed via three leopard or hyena during your visit, should be able to cross relatively easily. main entrance points: Mabalauta in then please email the sighting details The sixth crossing at Chipinda is a the south, or Chipinda Pools and Save/ along with any photos to researcher stone-packed causeway. Runde in the north. Most visitors opt for Dr Rosemary Groom: rosemary@ the main Chipinda Pools access point in africanwildlifeconservationfund.org CONVOY OR SOLO the northwest, although – when coming Convoy is the safer option, as other from South Africa – the adventurous FURTHER INFORMATION vehicles can be few and far between, route through Mozambique and the Check out www.zimparks.org or get especially away from the popular Chicualacuala-Sango border post is an your hands on the latest version of a Chilojo Cliffs area. Experienced exciting alternative worth considering. Lonely Planet or Bradt travel guide overlanders opting for a solo sojourn Load the latest version of to Zimbabwe.

Exiting Gonarezhou into Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve

December 2015 SA4x4 | 41