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South, West and Central India, December 23Rd 2008 – January 21St 2009

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South, West and Central India, December 23Rd 2008 – January 21St 2009 Birding Trip Report covering South, West and Central India, December 23rd 2008 – January 21st 2009 Green Avadavat, Mt. Abu Participants Erwin Collaerts Peter Collaerts, Peter.Collaerts[replace by at]scarlet.be Tom Theuwis Thanks to… …the many people we got information from. In the first place, Hans Matheve, Jurgen Dewolf and Maarten Schurmans gave us a lot of useful information. A few years ago, they went to the same regions that we had on the program now. I also asked for information on the Oriental Bird Club mailing list. I got a lot of useful info this way. Thanks to Kanwar B Singh and Sunjoy Monga (both gave info for Western Crimson Sunbird and Lesser Flamingo), Suniti Datta, David Stanton and Nick Lethaby (Painted Francolin), Partha Pratim (Green Avadavat), Duncan Wilson (Forest Owlet), David Farrow and Paul Holt (both Grey-headed Bulbul). Their info was essential to find most of these birds. Visited sites Information about most of the sites we visited is available in other reports. So I did not spend time by repeating all this information again. What is following is just the list of the place we went to. 9 South India ¾ Mysore o Ranganathittu ¾ Mudumalai ¾ Sighur Ghat ¾ Ooty o Cairnhill Forest o Potato Research Station near Muthorai o Botanical Garden ¾ Thattekad o Idamalayar Power Plant Dam o Dr. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary or Thattekad Bird Sanctuary ¾ Munnar o Cardamon Shola and grassy hills above Deshavan Resort o Rajamalai o Bodi Ghat ¾ Madurai 9 West India ¾ Great Rann of Kutch o Banni Rann o Piyoni Rakhal o Kunathiya o Lala o Naliya Done o Jakhau: saltlake and beach ¾ Little Rann of Kutch o Zainabad Lake ¾ Mount Abu ¾ Mumbai o Sanjay Gandhi NP o Sewri Mudflats 9 Central India ¾ Nagpur o Melghat Tiger Reserve o Pench Tiger Reserve ¾ Agra o Chambal River Lodge o Chambal River ¾ New Delhi o Okhla Local guides, logistics and accommodation We contacted a few local guides in advance. These people were Eldhose for Thattekad, Arpit Deomurari for the western part of the trip and the people from the Chambal River Lodge. When I was contacting Eldhose eldhose.kv[@]gmail.com, I though our group would arrive in Thattekad on December 31st. Now we arrived one day earlier and Eldhose was not available. This was not a problem as we did not ask him for guiding during this day in advance. But on the 31st, he even was not available and for this day, we had an agreement with him. Finally on January 1st, Eldhose was waiting for us at the entrance of the park. For him guiding could only start after we left the Jungle Bird Homestay and we moved to his brand new lodges. It was clear that there was some competition between Eldhose and the family of the Jungle Bird Homestay. Eldhose’s lodges are fantastic and they are just near his house, not that far from the park. Not only his lodges were great, also his guiding. Eldhose knows the birds and the places to find them as no one other does in area. We saw, or at least heard (Oriental Bay Owl), all the specialities of Thattekad. Arpit Demurari deomurari[@]gmail.com is guiding in the Kutch-area of West India. Just a few days before we start our trip, Arpit let me know that he would not go with us for guiding. Arpit is working with a few guides and he sends Chiku with us. Chiku is a very young guide and he is not doing this work for a long time. Chiku was very helpful and he was searching all day long for the birds we wanted to see but without the help of some locals I think we would never have found White-winged Tit and definitely not Indian Bustard. Lakhambhai was the driver during our days in Little and Great Rann of Kutch and Mt. Abu. He is driving around with tourists already for many years. He is not only driving around with birdwatchers but also with other tourists in general. Look also at Arpit’s website www.waders.in for more info. Arpit’s fee is 110USD/pp/day for a group of 3, including all transport, guiding, accommodation and food. The Chambal River Lodge is well-known by birdwatchers nowadays. A group of friends of us stayed at the lodge a few weeks before we planned to go there. They had Dalbir for guiding and they were very pleased about him. So we also asked for Dalbir. And indeed, he is a very great birdwatcher with a tremendous knowledge of all the wildlife. Dalbir was starting birdwatching in Baratphur where he was guiding already for many years. It is absolutely recommendable to ask for him when making a reservation at the Lodge. We stayed in low and mid class hotels, except for Chambal. Here is a list of hotels where we stayed at. - Mudumalai: Jungle Paradise in Masinagudi: 1500 rp/3pp/night for a dormitory and 1000 ro/3pp/night for a small room. - Ooty: Vinayaga Hotel: 1190 rp/2pp and Adharsh Hotel (booked in advanced): 1000 rp/3pp - Kothamangalam: Maria Hotel: 1178 rp/3pp - Thattekad: Jungle Bird Homestay: 750 rp/pp incl. 3 meals. Eldhose’s Lodge: 500 rp/pp but normally 1450 rp/pp. We negotiated this much lower price as Eldhose has promised us in his mails to find us accommodation for this price. - Nagpur: Rahul Hotel: 1400 rp/3pp - Melghat Tiger Reserve: 750 rp including accommodation, food and guiding - Chambal River Lodge: 1500 rp/pp accommodation. Meals also very expensive. Breakfast 250 rp, luch 400 rp and dinner 500 rp. Trip to the Chambal River is 2500 rp/pp. This is a nice lodge and good to Indian standards but even then prices are much overrated. Transport on air and on the ground International flights with Air France from CDG Airport near Paris. Departing flight was to Bangalore, returning flight from New Delhi. All our domestic flights were booked at http://www.makemytrip.com/flights/. Flight companies were Indian Airlines for Madurai-Chennai-Mumbai (Rs. 6166), Ahmedabad- Mumbai (Rs. 3129) and Mumbai-Nagpur (Rs. 3604). We got Kingfisher Airlines for the flight Mumbai-Bhuj (Rs. 3829). Comfort and service with Kingfisher Airlines was much better than with Indian Airlines. We made use of the Indian Railway system twice. One was the night train from Nagpur to Agra (standard cabin) and the second one was the fast train from Agra to Delhi. We did most of the transport was done by local busses. Only for a few shorter transfers we took a taxi. Only for the western part of the trip, the Kutch area, we hired a jeep with driver for all the transfers. Books and CD’s • “Pocket Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent” by R. Grimmett, C. Inskipp, T. Inskipp • “Birds of the Indian Subcontinent” by R. Grimmett, C. Inskipp, T. Inskipp • “A Birdwatchers’ Guide to India” by K. Kazmierczak, R. Singh • “Birds of Tropical Asia 3”, CD by Jelle Scharringa Internet sources and trip reports Most trip reports were found at www.travellingbirder.com. Trip reports most valuable to prepare our trip were: • “Western India, notes on mammals, birds and reptiles from a trip to Rajastan and Gujarat, 2005” by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen • “Notes on mammals & birds recorded in South India & Gujarat, 2007” by Uffe Gjøl Sørensen • “Southern India’s Endemics Christmas and New Year 2006/7” by Richard Munns • “Birdwatching trip report India 2006: Munnar, Thettekkad, Ooty, Masinagudi, Ranganthittu” by Mike Mandracchia • “India 22/12/2006-28/01/2007” by Hans Matheve, Maarten Schurmans, Nicolas Vanermen and Jurgen Dewolf • “Central India & Delhi 22.1-8.2-2008 – Bandhavgarh – Chambal – Bharatpur – Okhla” by Måns Grundsten • “Birding North-western India Re-invented 28/01/2005 – 28/02/2005” by Jerzy Dyczkowski and Bert Saveyn • “Birdwatching trip report India 2007: Kutch, Great Rann of Kutch, Little Rann of Kutch, Gujarat, Western India, GIR National Park, Velavadar Blackbuck National Park” by Arpit Deomurari Also worth reading are the trip reports on: • www.birdquest.co.uk • www.birdtourasia.com Also of great value were the following internet sites: • www.birdskerala.com • www.kolkatabirds.com • www.birdinginsouthindia.com Photos Photos of our trip are available here. Itinerary ¾ Dec 23rd: Train from Brussels to Paris. Flight to Bangalore. ¾ Dec 24th: We arrived in Bangalore just after midnight. Taxi to Mysore where we arrived early morning, just before sunrise. Short visit at Ranganathittu. At 9h30, start driving to Mudumalai. Just short stop along the way near a great tank. At 13h, we arrived in Mudumalai. Checked in at the Jungle Paradise Lodge, just near Masinagudi. Late afternoon birdwatching on the open area between the lodge and the village. ¾ Dec 25th: With local guide birdwatching in forest patches and bushes near the road to Singara. Guide not that good so we did not ask him to come back for guiding in the afternoon. Afternoon, we were birding in scrub east of the village. ¾ Dec 26th: At 5h30 we took a taxi to the Kalhatty Checkpoint at Sighur Ghat. We walked down the Ghat for the rest of the day. From the Sighur River we drove by taxi to the lodge again. Last hour of light of the day, we walked around the lodge. ¾ Dec 27th: At 7h we went to Ooty by bus. We booked a hotel here in advanced but as we arrived here one day earlier than we expected, there was no room available in hotel for this night. After checking in at another hotel we went to Cairnhill Forest for the rest of the day.
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