Tourism and Imperialism in the Dutch East Indies
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Tourism and imperialism in the Dutch East Indies Guidebooks of the Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer in the late colonial era (1908-1939) HANS MEULENDIJKS, 3929361 MA THESIS CULTURAL HISTORY OF MODERN EUROPE, UTRECHT UNIVERSITY Supervisor: dr. Rachel Gillett Utrecht University 27-07-2017 30,139 words Acknowledgements This thesis would not have materialized without the much-appreciated help of several people. Firstly, I want to thank my supervisor dr. Rachel Gillett for her input, enthusiasm and guidance throughout the process. Moreover, I would like to thank the teachers and my fellow students of the MA Cultural History of Modern Europe, and the Challenging Eternity course at the KNIR, as the discussions in and out of the classroom have inspired me all year, and sharpened my understanding of the subject. Furthermore, special thanks to dr. Remco Raben, who advised me in the early phase of the research, and Achmad Sunjayadi, who was so kind to share some of his insights from his Indonesian works on the Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer with me. Lastly, want to express my eternal gratitude to my friends, and especially to Sophie Slaats, who have helped me throughout the writing process. Without their help and support, I would not have been able to finish this thesis. Sources Cover: Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer, Java the Wonderland. Batavia: Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer, 1910, 37. Page 1: Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer, Come to Beautiful Java. Batavia: Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer, 1930s. 1 Abstract This thesis analyzes tourism’s capacity to reinforce imperialism in the context of the late colonial era in the Dutch East Indies (1900-1942). It examines how guidebooks of the Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer, a semi-governmental tourism organization, were encoded with the values of imperialism and the conventions of modern tourism, and how they, as tourist literature, mediated imperial identities. The study of representations of the Dutch East Indies and tourism performances featured in nineteen guidebooks reveals tourism’s potential to reproduce and sustain imperialism. The Vereeniging aimed to represent the Dutch East Indies in a positive light to the world, to attract visitors and stimulate the economy, but also to promote Dutch imperialism. To achieve these ends the Vereeniging mobilized the consumption habits, imaginaries and anticipations, aesthetic norms and travel conventions that characterized modern tourism. In the guidebooks, they constructed an imagined geography of the Dutch East Indies through a set of meanings, symbols and metropolitan discourses, which functioned in three significant ways. Firstly, the division between the metropolitan or colonial tourist, and the ‘premodern’ colonized population is affirmed by capitalizing on the tourist’s quest for ‘authenticity.’ Marking the indigenous people and the environment of the Dutch East Indies as ‘authentic’ tourist sights – based on their tropical ‘otherness’ – reinforced tourists’ modern consciousness, which substantiated imperial identities. Moreover, the conventional tourist relations between hosts and guests emphasized racial hierarchies of the colonial era, as the subordinate position of indigenous servants and locals is reproduced in tourist behavior outlined in the guidebooks. Secondly, the guidebooks render imperialism, and its hierarchies, as a natural order. Dutch imperial authority in the Indonesian Archipelago is never questioned, only affirmed through sanitized histories, sightseeing and unequal service relations. Thirdly, the guidebooks portray imperialism as a benevolent project. In the light of the mission civilatrice and the Dutch Ethical Policy, Dutch imperialism is rendered beneficial for both colonizer and colonized. As imperialism is presented as stable and just, the social unrest and the increasing resistance against Dutch rule in the late colonial era are obscured. 2 Contents Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 5 Tourism, guidebooks and identities .................................................................................................... 8 Research Question ............................................................................................................................ 16 Methodology ..................................................................................................................................... 18 Chapter 1 – Tourism, imperialism, and the Dutch East Indies .............................................................. 20 Tourism as a prism on the modern world ......................................................................................... 20 The late colonial era in the Dutch East Indies (1900-1942) .............................................................. 24 Vereeniging Toeristenverkeer ........................................................................................................... 28 Chapter 2 – Representations of the Dutch colonizer ............................................................................ 35 Representations of the Dutch colonizer ............................................................................................ 35 Hotels, villas and clubs ...................................................................................................................... 36 Imperial authority .............................................................................................................................. 37 The legitimacy of imperial conquest ................................................................................................. 39 The benevolent colonizer .................................................................................................................. 40 Demarcation of western spaces ........................................................................................................ 43 Chapter 3 – Representations of the colonized people .......................................................................... 46 Temples, dancers and bazaars .......................................................................................................... 47 Fantasies and Facts ............................................................................................................................ 50 The power of description .................................................................................................................. 51 Authenticity in the Archipelago ......................................................................................................... 54 Photographs of wonder and difference ............................................................................................ 56 Photographs of seduction ................................................................................................................. 59 Chapter 4 – Representations of Landscape and Nature ....................................................................... 62 Volcanoes, viewpoints and virginal forests ....................................................................................... 63 The Archipelago as prize possession ................................................................................................. 65 Sightseeing as an imperial practice ................................................................................................... 67 The tropics as the environmental ‘other’ .......................................................................................... 70 Idyllic landscapes and fantasies of non-intervention ........................................................................ 73 Chapter 5 – Tourist performances and the contact zone ..................................................................... 75 The comfort of Europe in the tropics ................................................................................................ 76 ‘Malay vocabulary sections’ and imperial hierarchies ...................................................................... 79 Contact between tourists and servants ............................................................................................ 80 Contact between tourists and locals ................................................................................................. 82 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 85 3 Image Appendix ..................................................................................................................................... 90 Primary Sources ................................................................................................................................... 135 Bibliography ......................................................................................................................................... 137 Images ................................................................................................................................................. 143 4 Introduction ‘Meanwhile, to the aspiring tourist who wants to visit Sumatra, I would recommend: if you want to make this tour as well, hurry. Because just now, we have seen the last shadow of Minang-Kabau beauty and in five years, I suspect, this will all be gone, all these beautiful, matriarchal houses of painted and carved wood. Why I dare make this prediction? Simply because