4/2014 Autumn INSTRUCTIONS

Please read the following the should be placed at Materials Press the garment’s seams as you go general instructions before regular intervals (6…9 cm) between Fabric requirements are based on a along and give the garment a fina starting your project. these points. fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre- press when it is completed. How to choose the correct For reasons of clarity, some of the shrink the fabric before cutting either Practical tips size markings (e.g. positions of by washing or by steaming it thor- tapes and ) have only oughly. If you choose a different fabric Gathering: Adjust your ma- Children’s pattern sizes are primar- been printed on the smallest-size from the one suggested in the maga- chine as follows: Decrease the up- ily chosen according to the child’s pattern of the design. Copy these zine, allow for matching up fabric pat- per tension and increase the height, and the pattern measurements in the corresponding places on the tern and for cutting with nap when length (stitch length 4...5). Sew are then adjusted to correspond to pattern size of your choice, measuring calculating the fabric requirement. two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm the child’s other body measurements. the distance of each marking from apart from each other on the right Take the measurements on top of thin the edge of the pattern piece. Large Choose the on the basis side of the edge to be gathered, plac- underwear and compare them with pattern pieces have been printed of the fashion fabric’s color, quality, ing one row on the seamline and the size chart. You will find detailed on the pattern sheet in two parts. weight and care instructions. the other within the allow- instructions for taking measurements Combine parts A and B before cutting Since the quality and stretch of elas- ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath- on the next page. out the garment pieces. tics vary, check the lengths be- er the fabric by pulling simultaneously fore sewing. on both threads and spread- How to find the pattern pieces Cutting ing the gathers between your fingers on the pattern sheet If a is not available in a desired evenly over the required length. The Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou- length, buy a longer zipper and short- An overview of numbered, small-scale ble layer of fabric, observing the gathered edge is stitched in place be- en it as shown in the illustration on tween the gathering stitches using a pattern pieces and a list of pattern markings for grainlines and foldlines. pattern sheet D. pieces can be found next to the sew- Draw the seam allowances on the regular . ing instructions for each design. The fabric with ’s chalk. Sewing Easing: Rows of -stitching are appropriate pattern sheet is also stat- If you only need to a piece out Read through the instructions before sewn as gathering stitches but the ed. On the bottom edge of the pat- bobbin threads are pulled just enough tern sheet, find the number with the once, observe the pattern markings you start sewing. If you wish, baste and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col- and try the garment on before sew- to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. correct color for the desired pattern at set-in caps). piece and move your finger upward lar) or from a single layer of fabric ing. To make sewing easier, the instruc- on the sheet until you locate the (e.g. ). tions have been written on the basis Garments lined with knit same number. of techniques used in the in- The measurements for garment dustry. The terms “inner”/”outer” and When the fabric is a knit and Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in- pieces listed under the heading “Cut “left”/”right” refer to the garment the fashion fabric a woven, cut the cluding all the necessary markings also” (e.g. belt loops, belts) already when worn. lining out with considerably narrow- (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place- include seam allowances. When er seam allowances to keep the lining ments). The markings are also visible cutting out the garment, include Finish the construction seams of the from showing under the fashion fabric. on the small-scale patterns next to allowances for fitting adjustments garment after you have sewn them, the instructions. Make all adjustments if necessary. Each design includes even if the instructions do not spe- to the pattern before cutting out the specific and detailed cutting cifical y mention seam finish You can garment pieces. instructions. either use a serger or a machine zig- © Garment sections to be interfaced zag stitch for finishing the seams. On The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and arti- Patterns knit fabrics, stitch the seams using cles in this magazine are protected under internation- are shaded in grey in the overview a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. al copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commer- The patterns include allowances, of small-scale pattern pieces. Knit cial use of the material and manufacture under license and woven are cut on the No separate seam finish is necessary. is only possible under a written agreement with the extensions and placket facings. Seams inside a lined garment do not copyright holder. For further information, contact us When cutting out the garment pieces, , while non-woven interfacings necessarily have to be finished in writing at the following address: Studio Tuumat Oy, add seam allowances of approx. 1 cm may be cut in any direction as they do Rantavitikantie 29, FI-96300 Rovaniemi, Finland. (depending on the fabric) to each not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are On (e.g. at the garment’s bot- Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, generally cut adding the same amount tom edge or sleeve edges) the seam Rovaniemi, Finland OTTOBRE design® edge of the pattern. or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compen- of (approx. 1 cm) as allowance is turned under and the sate for possible financial losses resulting from mis- The position of the first or top but- on pieces cut from fashion fabric. hem is stitched close to the turned- prints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in ton/ has been marked on However, a smaller seam allowance under edge. The width of the hem and the instructions. the pattern. On blouses and the may be used on interfacings for seam allowance is given in brackets; Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, top buttonhole on the front is approx. heavy-weight fabrics. for example “stitch hem (2 cm + 1 Rovaniemi, Finland 4 cm below the neck seamline and cm)” means that the hem allowance the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 is 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm. cm above the . The rest of

24 MEASURING SIZE CHARTS THE CHILD

For taking the measurements, you’ll BABIES 50-92 cm need a and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 this purpose of a strip of fold- ed in four (finished width 1.5 cm). 1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe- 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ty . 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 free at the sides. 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37 The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light- weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi- TODDLERS 92-122 cm GIRLS AND BOYS tion of the tape measure behind the child. Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 Height of the child: With the child standing up with the 1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 distance measured from the floor to 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5 the marking. Chest measurement: 5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 Horizontal measurement round the 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: GIRLS 128-170 cm Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 Distance from the waist to the floor 1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72 Inseam length: 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91 Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet. 5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5 Shoulder width: 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5 Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2 Sleeve length: Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent. BOYS 128-170 cm Back waist length: Distance from the most prominent Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape. 1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 The measurements in the chart 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43 are taken on the body. The patterns include the 5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5 necessary allowances for 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104 ease of movement. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5

You can find these charts with measurements in inches on our website. 25 1. Sausage Dog bodysuit 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 16-17

MATERIALS - 55-60-60-65-65-70-70 cm 2 printed organic-cotton single 3 1 PATTERN PIECES cut jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 30% 1 front 1 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 2 back 1 width 90 cm 3 sleeve 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 PATTERN SHEET A orange - four snap , ø 10 mm

CUTTING SEWING with . Pin back panel on edges of front and back panels as marked Cut garment pieces from single jersey as Construction techniques: Stitch seams top of front panel on left shoulder, aligning on pattern. Finish edges of leg openings indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding with serger or with overedge stretch edge of front panel with pattern line with binding and leave a little extra at 8 mm seam allowances to all edges except stitch on regular . Stitch marking shoulder line of back panel, and both ends of each binding. Wrap ends of neckline, bottom edges of and hems with serger coverstitch or with machine-baste overlapped front and back binding tightly over crotch edge to wrong edges of leg openings. twin needle on regular sewing machine. armhole edges together. Finish bottom side and stitch them in place 5 mm from See general instructions for finishing edges edges of sleeves with binding. Stitch sleeves edge. excess binding off close to Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- to armholes right sides together. Stitch stitching. bing for finishing neckline, bottom edges with binding on p. 48. sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Finishing: Attach one snap to of sleeves and edges of leg openings. If Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to bottom Fold underarm seam allowances to one you use a binder attachment on your edges of front and back panels (see areas left shoulder and three snap fasteners to side and stitch them flat across sleeve- crotch as marked on pattern. coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). edge bindings. cut the binding strips in the width that Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish fits the binder. Fold, press and stitch hems at bottom

2. Cool Baby denim-look 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 16-17

1

PATTERN PIECES cut 2 3 1 top-front corner 2 2 pants front 2 MATERIALS 3 pants back 2 - 40-45-50-55-60-60 cm denim- 4 small pocket 1 look organic-cotton jersey knit 5 back pocket 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% 6 bottom-leg 2 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 46…52 cm elastic, width 25 mm PATTERN SHEET green - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 4 6 5 A CUTTING to pants backs as marked on from right side. At the same time, fold allowance. Measure and cut piece of elastic Cut bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing and pattern. crotch seam allowances toward left pants to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic = other garment pieces from jersey as indi- Joining: Stitch hem at opening edge of front and back and crotch seam. child’s waist minus 4…5 cm). Stitch ends cated on list of pattern pieces, adding small pocket. Turn seam allowance on Pin and stitch side seams. Fold seam of elastic together to form circle and 1 cm seam allowances to all edges. side edge of small pocket to wrong side allowances toward pants back and top- mark elastic into quarters. Pin elastic to and pin and topstitch pocket to right top- stitch side seams close to seamline, start- wrong side of waist casing allowance, SEWING front corner piece as marked on pattern. ing stitching at waist edge and ending at placing it along outer edge of casing allow- edge of mock pocket opening. Leave pants ance and aligning quarter marks with cen- Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pin top-front corner pieces to pants fronts right sides together and stitch them in inside out. ter-front, center-back and side seams. with straight stitch and finish them with Machine-baste elastic to casing allowance serger or . Topstitch seams place with straight stitch. Finish seam Bottom edges of legs: Stitch side edges allowances together, fold them toward of each bottom-leg cuff together to form by stitching-in-the-ditch along garment’s and edges with two parallel rows stitching, seamlines from right side. Fold waist casing placing the first row of stitching close to pants fronts and topstitch seams. circles. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides to- gether. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right allowance and elastic to wrong side and edge or seamline and the second row Pin pants fronts and backs right sides to- stitch casing in place through all layers presser-foot width away from the first gether and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of legs with straight stitch, stretching along bottom edge of elastic, stretching row. allowances toward pants backs and top- elastic as you sew. Stitch another row of stitch seams. Pin pants halves together cuffs slightly as you sew. Finish seam allow- Back pockets: Stitch hems at opening ances together. Turn pants right side out, stitching along casing, placing it in the edges of pockets as marked on pattern. and stitch crotch seam (note that stitching middle of elastic. Steam pants waist to line runs along outer edges of mock fly fold seam allowances of cuff seams toward Turn seam allowances on other pocket pants panels and topstitch seams. shrink elastic back to its original length. edges to wrong side. Pin and topstitch extensions). Fold mock fly extensions onto left pants front and topstitch mock : Finish raw edge of waist casing

3. Wind Chime jersey hoodie 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 18-19

MATERIALS - 45-50-55-55-60-65 cm organic-cotton interlock - 30 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband knit (CO), stretch/recovery 20% - 5 cm piece of , width 15 mm - 15 cm organic-cotton ribbing (CO/EL) - wooden , ø 15 mm SEWING top/back seam of hood, ending stitching Construction techniques: Stitch seams approx. 5 cm away from face edge of with serger or with overedge stretch hood. Pin and stitch hood to garment’s stitch on regular sewing machine. See neckline right sides together. Finish face 3 general instructions for finishing edges edge of hood and edges of front slit with 2 with binding on p. 48. continuous binding. Stitch rest of top/back 1 seam of hood, fold seam allowances to Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for one side and stitch them flat across face- shoulder edges on back panel and for top edge binding. Stitch one end of twill tape 6 edge of pocket (measure required lengths to wrong side of hood’s face edge over of tape on pattern pieces and add seam top seam. Wrap tape to right side of allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of hood, turn seam allowance at its end seam allowances. under and stitch end to hood’s face edge. Pocket: Finish opening edges of pocket Fold button loop in position and stitch it 4 with binding. Turn and press seam allow- to outer edge of binding. 5 ances on side edges of pocket to wrong Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve CUTTING side. Pin and stitch bottom edge of pocket underarm seams and side seams. Fold up Cut sleeve cuffs from ribbing and other to front panel as marked on pattern, right and press bottom hem and stitch it with garment pieces from interlock knit as sides together. Fold pocket right side up, serger coverstitch or with twin needle indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing pin it in position and stitch its side and on regular sewing machine. Leave garment center-front and center-back edges of top edges to front panel close to edge. inside out. PATTERN PIECES cut pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding Button loop: Cut 1.5 cm x 7.5 cm strip Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff to- 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges from interlock knit. Fold strip in half gether to form circles. Fold cuffs in half 1 front 1 except face edges of hood panels, edges lengthwise and stitch its edges together wrong sides together. Place cuffs inside 2 back 1 of front slit and opening edges of pocket. with serger rolled hem, so that the finished sleeves right sides together and stitch 3 sleeve 2 Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- width of strip is approx. 5 mm. Machine- them to bottom edges of sleeves, stretch- bing for finishing face edge of hood and 4 hood 2 baste button loop to wrong side of hood’s ing cuffs slightly as you sew. Sew button 5 pocket 1 edges of front slit as well as opening edges face-edge seam allowance, approx. 2 cm on face edge of hood. of pocket. If you use a binder attachment above neckline corner of hood. 6 sleeve cuff 2 on your coverstitch machine to attach Joining: Pin front and back right sides the bindings, cut the binding strips in the PATTERN SHEET blue width that fits the binder. together and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch A

4. Meadow Green jersey top 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 20-21

MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 40-40-45-45-50-50 cm 3 striped cotton single jersey 1 2 1 front 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 2 back 1 - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 3 sleeve 2 - 8 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm PATTERN SHEET A red - 35…40 cm elastic, width 6 mm

CUTTING SEWING markings and stretching it evenly as you 17-18-18-18 cm pieces of elastic and Cut garment pieces from single jersey as Construction techniques: Stitch seams sew. Pin sleeves to front panel right sides stitch ends of each piece together to indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing with serger or with overedge stretch together and stitch raglan seams. Pin right form circles. Mark midpoints on pieces center-front and center-back edges of stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch sleeve to back panel and stitch right raglan of elastic as well as on sleeve edges. Ma- pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding bottom hem with serger coverstitch or seam on back. Finish neckline with binding. chine-baste elastic to wrong side side of 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges with twin needle on regular sewing ma- Stitch left raglan seam on back. Fold seam sleeve-edge seam allowance with zigzag except neckline. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding chine. See general instructions for finishing allowances to one side and stitch them stitch, stretching elastic as you sew and strip from ribbing for finishing neckline. edges with binding on p. 48. flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeve aligning midpoint marks. Turn sleeve-edge underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, seam allowance with elastic to wrong If you use a binder attachment on your Joining: front neckline with clear coverstitch machine to attach the binding, press and stitch bottom hem. side and stitch sleeve edge close to outer elastic tape: machine-baste piece of clear edge of elastic. cut the binding strip in the width that fits elastic tape to right side of neckline seam Bottom edges of sleeves: Finish raw the binder. allowance, placing it between pattern bottom edges of sleeves. Cut two 17-17-

5. Straight Stripes jersey pants 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 19

4

MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 35-40-40-45-50-55-55 cm striped organic-cotton single jersey 4 pants panel 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 5 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 14 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 5 - 45…50 cm elastic, width 20 mm PATTERN SHEET A red CUTTING with serger or with overedge stretch ing for inserting elastic in center-back Waistline: Stitch waist casing. Measure Cut pants panels from striped single jersey stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch seam across waist casing allowance. Turn and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s and bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing as indi- waist casing with serger coverstitch or pants inside out. Stitch side edges of each waist (length of elastic = child’s waist cated on list of pattern pieces, adding with twin needle on regular sewing ma- bottom-leg cuff together to form circles. minus 4…5 cm). Insert elastic into waist 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. chine. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides together. casing and stitch its ends together. Close Joining: Stitch leg inseams. Place pants Place cuffs inside pants legs, right sides opening on casing by hand-stitching. SEWING legs within one another right sides to- together. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of legs, stretching cuffs slightly as you sew. Construction techniques: Stitch seams gether and stitch crotch seam; leave open-

6. Her Sweetness pinafore dress 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 3, 20-21

MATERIALS - 55-60-65-65-70-70-75 cm printed, soft cotton fabric(CO), width 110 cm - piece of interfacing, 5 Vlieseline® H 180 6 - five sew-on snap fasteners, ø 6 mm 1 3 PATTERN PIECES cut For appliqué: - piece of bright-colored fabric and 1 front 1 small pieces of black and white 2 skirt front 1 fabric for cat appliqué 3 back yoke 2 4 - small seed beads 2 4 skirt back 2 - double-sided fusible web, 5 neckline * 1 Vlieseline® Vliesofix 6 armhole facing* 2 - tear-away backing, cat appliqué Vlieseline® Stickvlies - black floss PATTERN SHEET A lilac for embroidery

CUTTING Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong yoke. Press seam allowances gently toward neckline, with its ends slightly overlapping Cut neckline and armhole facings on the side of skirt front, under appliqué area. yoke. Stitch skirt backs to back yokes in placket facings. Trim neckline seam allow- bias from cotton fabric. *Pattern pieces Stitch appliqué shapes in place close to the same way. ances to 5 mm. Turn neckline corners for facings include seam allowances. Cut edge with narrow, short zigzag, using Stitch shoulder seams. Finish armholes right side out and understitch neckline other garment pieces from cotton fabric matching sewing thread for each shape. with facing: Stitch facing to armhole right seam allowances to facing close to seam- as indicated on list of pattern pieces, Remove tear-away backing. sides together. Trim seam allowances to line. Turn seam allowance on free edge placing center-front edges of pattern Embroider cat’s whiskers by hand with 5 mm. Understitch armhole seam allow- of facing under and stitch turned-under pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm , using embroidery floss. Em- ances to facing close to seamline. Fold edge to neckline close to edge. seam allowances to all other edges. broider cat’s nose by hand with satin facing to wrong side of garment, turn Stitch side seams. Fold side seam allow- stitch. Make cat’s by sewing three seam allowance on its free edge under ances toward back panels and stitch them SEWING rows of beads at cat’s neck. Sew each and stitch turned-under edge to armhole flat across armhole facings. Trim seam Construction techniques: Stitch seams bead in place by passing thread twice close to edge. allowances at bottom-hem corners and with straight stitch and finish them with through it to secure it firmly to fabric. Fold placket facings to wrong side of turn corners right side out. Turn edge of serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to placket garment and press. Turn seam allowances bottom hem allowance under and pin and stitch hem. Pin placket facings in Cat appliqué: Trace cat and its eyes from facings on back yokes and skirt backs (see at outer edges of placket facings to wrong areas shaded in grey on small-scale pat- side and press. Fold up and press bottom position and stitch them to garment close pattern sheet on paper backing of fusible to their outer edges. web. Iron pieces of fusible web with motifs terns). hem as marked on pattern. Fold placket onto wrong side of pieces of fabric. Cut Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top facings to right side of garment and stitch Finishing: Sew five snap fasteners on appliqué shapes out along their outlines. edges of skirt front and back panels and neckline edges as well as bottom-hem back placket, placing top snap as marked Remove paper backing from shapes and gather edges to fit front and back yoke edges, stitching along bottom-hem foldline. on pattern and the rest at regular 5…6 cm iron shapes onto right side of skirt front. panels. Pin and stitch skirt front to front Pin and stitch neckline facing to garment’s intervals.

7. Best Pals outerwear coverall 56-62-68-74-80 cm Page 18

1 2 3 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 60-65-70-80-85 cm printed - zipper, length 30-30-30-35-35 cm sweatshirt knit (CO/EL) - piece of ribbon, width 6 mm, Shell Batting Lining for shell and 60-65-70-80-85 cm for hanging loop 1 front 2 2 2 printed cotton single jersey - 100…110 cm clear elastic tape, 2 back 2 2 2 (CO/EL) for lining, stretch/ Framilon®, width 5 mm 3 sleeve 2 2 2 - 70…85 cm fusible stay tape, recovery of both knits 30% 4 4 hood 2 2 2 - 60-65-70-80-85 cm lightweight Vlieseline® Formband 5 pocket piece 2 - - microfiber knit batting (PES), 5 Warm-Fill PATTERN SHEET A black CUTTING both pocket and front panel right side Preshrink fabrics by washing them before up, and machine-baste edges of pocket cutting. piece to side seamlines. Stitch curved edge of pocket to front panel with serger Shell: Cut pocket opening on pattern coverstitch or with twin needle on regular piece for shell front observing pattern sewing machine. markings. Cut shell pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, Pin shell panels to batting panels and ma- adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges chine-baste them to batting panels close except center-front edges, face edges of to outer edge of seam allowances with hood panels, edges of pocket openings straight stitch (use longest stitch length). and bottom edges of sleeves and legs. Trim excess batting off on edges of all panels. Pin sleeves to front and back panels Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- right sides together and stitch raglan bing for finishing center-front edges and seams. Stitch center-back seam. Pin hood face edge of hood, edges of pocket open- panels right sides together and stitch top/ ings and bottom edges of sleeves and center-back seam. legs. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the Joining lining: Pin sleeves to front and bindings, cut the binding strips in the back panels right sides together and stitch width that fits the binder. raglan seams. Stitch center-back seam. Pin hanging loop to back neckline and Batting: Cut batting pieces as indicated machine-baste its ends to each side of on list of pattern pieces, adding 2-3 cm center-back seam. Pin hood panels right seam allowances to all edges. Note that sides together and stitch top/center-back batting pieces are trimmed to exact size seam. only after they have been machine-basted to shell panels. Joining shell and lining: Press all seams before joining shell and lining. Pin shell Lining: Cut lining pieces from single jer- and lining wrong sides together and ma- sey as indicated on list of pattern pieces, chine-baste their center-front edges and adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges together. Pin and stitch shell Pin front (shell + lining) to shell back right chine-baste shell and lining together along except center-front edges, face edges of hood to shell side of garment’s neckline, sides together at bottom end of zipper bottom edges of sleeves and bottom hood panels and bottom edges of sleeves right sides together. Pin and stitch lining placket and stitch leg inseam for approx. edges of legs. Cut pieces of clear elastic and legs. hood to lining side of garment in the 6 cm on each side of zipper. Flip lining tape for bottom edges of sleeves and legs same way. Place hood sections within one back panel to the same place at bottom (measure required lengths of tape on SEWING another and machine-baste their face end of zipper and stitch it to previously pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Construction techniques: Stitch seams edges together. Finish garment’s center- stitched portion of leg inseam. Stitch rest Machine-baste tapes along bottom edges with serger or with stretch stitch on front edges and face edge of hood with of leg inseams from end of previous stitch- of sleeves and legs, on right side of shell. regular sewing machine. No seam finish binding. ing line to bottom edge of leg; first stitch Finish bottom edges of sleeves and legs is necessary as the garment is fully lined. shell front and back right sides together with binding. If you use a regular sewing Cut 3 cm x 10...12 cm piece from single machine, first stitch ends of binding strips See general instructions for finishing edges jersey and finish its raw edges. Fold piece and then lining front and back right sides with binding on p. 48. together. together to form circles. If you use a in half and stitch it to bottom end of binder on a coverstitch machine, start Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for zipper as extension (check length of zipper Turn garment right side out. Stitch under- arm seams and side seams of lining as applying the binding next to the underarm center-front edges of shell front panels + extension on pattern before stitching seam or leg inseam on the garment’s back and fuse them to wrong side of center- zipper in place). Open zipper. Pin zipper continuous seams; leave 15 cm opening for turning in one side seam. Pull under- and, when you return to the starting front seam allowances (measure required to garment’s front edges, aligning top ends point, turn the binding away from the lengths of tape on pattern piece and add of zipper coil with neckline seam and arm and side-seam edges of shell out through opening for turning, one side at edge and leave a little extra at its end. seam allowances). turning top ends of zipper tapes under, Wrap end binding tightly to wrong side and stitch zipper in place along inner a time, and stitch as continuous seams. Joining shell: Finish edges of pocket Stitch opening for turning closed, working and stitch it in place along stitching line stitching line on binding. Secure top ends that attaches binding. Trim excess binding openings with binding. Pin pocket piece of zipper to garment by hand-stitching. through bottom edge of leg. Pin and ma- under front panel as marked on pattern, off close to stitching.

8. Playful Kitty leggings 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 20-21

MATERIALS - 45-50-55-55-60-65-70 cm cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 45…52 cm elastic, width 20 mm For appliqué: - piece of green single jersey for 4 cat, as well as small pieces of red and white single jersey PATTERN PIECES cut - double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix 4 pants panel 2 - tear-away backing, cat and diamond appliqué Vlieseline® Stickvlies - black embroidery floss for embroidery PATTERN SHEET A orange

CUTTING twin needle on regular sewing machine. shapes in place close to edge with narrow, to one side and stitch them flat across Cut pants panels from single jersey as Cat appliqué: Trace cat and diamonds short zigzag, using matching sewing thread bottom-leg hems. Place pants legs within indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding from pattern sheet on paper backing of for each shape. Remove tear-away backing. one another right sides together and 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. fusible web. Iron pieces of fusible web Embroider cat’s whiskers by hand with stitch crotch seam; leave opening across with motifs onto wrong side of pieces of chain stitch, using embroidery floss. Em- waist casing allowance at center back for SEWING jersey. Cut appliqué shapes out along their broider cat’s nose and eyes by hand with inserting elastic. Stitch waist casing. Meas- outlines. Remove paper backing from satin stitch. ure and cut piece of elastic to fit the Construction techniques: Stitch seams child’s waist (length of elastic = child’s with serger or with overedge stretch shapes and iron shapes onto right side Joining: Fold up, press and stitch hems of pants panels. Pin pieces of tear-away at bottom edges of legs as marked on waist minus 4…5 cm). Insert elastic into stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing and stitch its ends together. hems with serger coverstitch or with backing to wrong side of pants panels, pattern. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam under appliqué shapes. Stitch appliqué seam allowances at bottom edges of legs Close opening on casing by hand-stitching. 9. Hopping Magpie corduroy jacket 98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 2, 4-5

Shell

3 PATTERN PIECES cut

Shell Corduroy Batting 1 front - 2 front yoke 2 - lower front 1 2 panel 2 - 6 2 back 1 1 3 sleeve 2 2 4 pocket 2 - MATERIALS 4 8 5 hood side panel 2 2 5 6 hood center panel 2 2 - 80-80-85-85-90-95 cm black, 45- 8 beak 2 - 45-45-50-50-50 cm beige and 45- 45-50-50-55-55 cm blue Lining Corduroy Lining Lining corduroy (CO) fabric - 90-90-95-100-105-110 cm 1 front - 2 lining fabric (CV) 3 1 front facing 2 - - 115-115-115-120-120-130 cm 1 2 2 back - 1 lightweight microfiber knit batting 2 back facing 1 - (PES), Warm-Fill 3 sleeve - 2 - 55…65 cm interfacing, 3 lower sleeve Vlieseline® H 180 panel 2 - - 4-5 buttons, ø 22 mm 3 5 hood side panel - 2 - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, 6 hood center panel- 2 width 6 mm, for hanging loop 1 2 6 4 pocket - 2 - pieces of yellow corduroy for 4 pocket facing 2 - beak, white corduroy for eyes 4 5 7 hood facing 2 - and blue corduroy for pupils 4 - piece of double-sided fusible web, 7 PATTERN SHEET B black Vlieseline® Vliesofix

CUTTING necessary as the garment is fully lined. right sides together. Stitch sleeve under- allowances to lining hood. Place shell and Preshrink shell and lining fabrics before Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas arm seams and side seams. lining hoods within one another wrong cutting. Refer to list of pattern pieces and shaded in grey on small-scale patterns Joining lining: Pin and stitch facings to sides together and machine-baste their small-scale patterns when cutting out and fuse them in place. lining front and back panels and lower bottom edges together. garment pieces. Eyes: Trace eyes and pupils from pattern sleeve panels to lining sleeves right sides Joining shell and lining: Press seams Batting: Cut batting pieces as indicated piece for hood side panel on paper backing together. Press seam allowances toward on shell and lining. Pin and stitch hood on list of pattern pieces, placing center- of fusible web. Iron eyes onto wrong side lining panels. Pin front and back panels to shell’s neckline, right sides together, back edge of pattern piece for back on of white and pupils onto wrong side of right sides together and stitch shoulder aligning its face edge with center-front fold and adding 2-3 cm seam allowances blue corduroy and cut shapes out along seams. Press seams open. Stitch sleeves marks on shell. Turn shell and lining inside to all other edges. Note that batting pieces their outlines. Remove paper backing to armholes right sides together. Stitch out. Place shell and lining right sides are trimmed to exact size only after they from shapes and iron shapes onto shell- sleeve underarm seams and side seams, together and pin and stitch their front have been machine-basted to shell panels. hood side panels as marked on pattern. leaving 15 cm opening for turning in one edges and necklines together, with hood Stitch shapes in place with narrow, short side seam. Pin hanging loop to back neck- in between. Press front-edge seam allow- Shell: Cut up pattern for front into two line and machine-baste its ends to each ances toward lining and understitch them separate pattern pieces along marked zigzag stitch, using matching thread for each shape. side of center-back mark. to lining close to seamline. Stitch bottom- seamline, i.e. into front yoke and lower hem edges of shell and lining together. front panel. Cut shell pieces as follows: Pockets: Stitch pocket facings to lining Hood: Pin and stitch shell-hood side panels to center panels right sides togeth- Trim front-neckline and bottom-hem lower front panels from beige, sleeves pocket pieces, clip seam allowances on corners. Clip neckline seam allowances from blue, beak from yellow and other lining pockets and press seam allowances er. Fold seam allowances toward center panels and topstitch seams. Pin shell hood and clip to stitching at bottom-hem corner shell pieces from black corduroy, placing toward lining pockets. Pin shell and lining at center-back. Pin and stitch bottom center-back edge of pattern piece for pocket pieces together and stitch opening halves together and stitch top/center- back seam. Fold seam allowances toward edges of shell and lining sleeves right sides back on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam edges of pockets. Clip seam allowances together. Note! Do not place shell and allowances to other edges. along curves and understitch seam allow- left hood half and topstitch seam. Pin beak pieces right sides together and stitch lining sleeves within one another but Lining: Cut off pattern pieces for front ances to pocket facing. Pin shell and lining bring bottom edges of sleeves end to end pockets right sides together and stitch their outer edges. Trim corner, turn beak and back facings from patterns for front right side out and steam it gently. Stitch and stitch, making sure that sleeves are and back, pattern piece for pocket facing pocket edges together, leaving small open- not twisted. ing for turning at bottom edge of pocket. nostrils on beak with straight stitch as from pattern for pocket, and pattern piece marked on pattern. Pin and machine-baste Turn garment right side out through for lower sleeve panel from pattern for Trim corners and turn pockets right side out. Press pockets flat. Pin pockets to beak to face edge of shell hood, right opening in side seam of lining. Poke cor- sleeve, observing pattern markings. Trace sides together, aligning center mark on ners out and steam garment’s front edges pattern pieces for hood side and center lower front panels of shell as marked on pattern and stitch them in place close to beak with top seam on hood. and bottom hem thoroughly. Secure side panels observing pattern markings. Cut seam allowances of lining to side seam front and back facings, hood facings and edge, closing opening for turning at the Pin and stitch lining-hood side panels to same time. center panels right sides together. Fold allowances of shell at top edge of facing pocket facings from black corduroy, lower by hand-stitching, working between shell sleeve panels from beige corduroy and Joining shell: Pin and stitch front yokes and press seam allowances toward center panels. Pin and stitch hood facings to and lining. Secure underarm seam allow- other lining pieces from lining fabric as to lower front panels. Press seam allow- ances of lining sleeves to shell at top indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing ances gently toward yokes. Pin shell panels lining hood halves right sides together. Press seam allowances toward lining. Pin edges of lower sleeve panels. Close open- center-back edges of pattern pieces on to batting panels and machine-baste them ing for turning. fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- to batting panels close to outer edge of lining hood halves right sides together ances to other edges. seam allowances with straight stitch (use and stitch top/center-back seam. Press Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew longest stitch length). Trim excess batting seam allowances toward right hood half. buttons on front edges as marked on SEWING from edges of all panels. Place shell and lining hoods within one pattern. Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pin front and back panels right sides another right sides together and stitch with straight stitch. Sew topstitching close together and stitch shoulder seams. Press their face edges together, with beak in to edge or seamline. No seam finish is seams open. Stitch sleeves to armholes between. Understitch face-edge seam 10. Magpie pinafore dress 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 50-51

CUTTING on skirt front panel and fuse them in 2 Preshrink fabrics before cutting. place by ironing. Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong side of skirt panel under 1 Shell: Cut shell pieces from striped cot- appliqué shapes. Stitch along edges of ap- ton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pliqué shapes with narrow, short zigzag. pieces, placing center-front and center- Embroider bird’s legs with short zigzag back edges of pattern pieces on fabric stitch. Secure thread ends and remove fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to tear-away backing from wrong side care- other edges. fully. Steam appliqué area. Lining: Cut lining skirt panels from batiste or lining fabric as indicated on list of pat- Yoke seams: Sew rows of gathering 3 4 tern pieces, placing center-front and cen- stitches along top edges of both shell and ter-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric lining skirt panels. Gather skirt front fold and adding 1 cm seam allowances to panels to fit front yokes and skirt back other edges. Note that bottom hem of panels to fit back yokes. Pin and stitch lining skirt is cut along pattern lines mark- shell skirt panels to shell yokes right sides ing bottom-hem foldlines of shell. together. Fold seam allowances toward MATERIALS yokes and topstitch seams. Stitch lining PATTERN PIECES cut - 65-70-70-75-80-85-90 cm striped SEWING skirt panels to lining yokes in the same cotton fabric for shell way. Shell Lining Construction techniques: Stitch seams - 50-50-55-60-65-65-70 cm solid- with straight stitch and finish them with Joining: Pin shell front and back as well 1 front yoke 1+1 - color cotton batiste or viscose serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching as lining front and back right sides together 2 back yoke 2 - lining fabric for lining close to edge or seamline. and stitch side seams of both shell and 3 skirt front 1 1 - piece of interfacing, lining. Place shell and lining within one 4 skirt back 1 1 Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shell another right sides together. Pin and stitch Vlieseline® H 180 pieces (see areas shaded in grey on small- magpie appliqué - four buttons, ø 20 mm top edges of shell and lining together (i.e. scale patterns). necklines, armholes and outer edges of For appliqué: Appliqué: Trace parts of magpie motif shoulder ). Trim corners, trim seam PATTERN SHEET B blue - piece of tear-away backing, from pattern sheet on paper backing of allowances slightly and clip curves. Pull Vlieseline® Stickvlies double-sided fusible web. Fuse wing to shell and lining apart, both right sides out. Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge - piece of double-sided fusible web, wrong side of blue, belly and eye to wrong Understitch armhole seam allowances to of shell. Fold up, press and stitch bottom Vlieseline® Vliesofix side of white and other parts to wrong lining close to seamline. Turn garment hem of shell as marked on pattern. Stitch - small pieces of blue, white and side of black piece of fabric and cut shapes right side out and press yokes and shoul- hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at bottom edge of black cotton fabric or cotton out along their outlines. der straps thoroughly. Topstitch edges of lining. Stitch buttonholes on front yoke front and back neckline, armholes and and sew buttons on shoulder straps as single jersey Remove paper backing of fusible web shoulder straps close to edge. from wrong side of shapes, arrange shapes marked on pattern.

11. Autumn Forest jersey top 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 50-51, 54

A B PATTERN PIECES cut 6 1 front, design A 1 2 2 front yoke, design B 1 3 front, design B 1 4 back 1 5 3 1 4 5 sleeve 2 6 button band, design A* 1

PATTERN SHEET B red

MATERIALS single jersey as indicated on list of pattern Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic align midpoint of tape with center-front pieces, placing center-front and center- tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (meas- mark on front panel and stretch tape as - 50-50-55-55-60-60-60 cm printed back edges of pattern pieces on fabric ure required length of tape on pattern you sew to gather edge beautifully. Pin cotton single jersey (CO/EL), fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances piece and add seam allowances). Machine- and stitch front yoke to front panel right stretch/recovery 30% to all other edges except neckline and baste clear elastic tapes to right side of sides together, concealing clear elastic - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) bottom edges of sleeves. shoulder seam allowances on back panel tape between seam allowances. Fold and - four buttons, ø 10 mm, design A Both designs: Cut 3.5 cm wide binding (on finished garment, tapes will be con- steam seam allowances gently toward - 20…25 cm (design A) or 35… strips from ribbing for finishing neckline cealed between seam allowances). yoke. 45 cm (design B) clear elastic and bottom edges of sleeves. If you use Front, design A: Turn and press seam Joining, designs A and B: Stitch left tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm a binder attachment on your coverstitch allowances at both long edges as well as shoulder seam. Finish neckline with bind- machine to attach the bindings, cut the at bottom edge of button band to wrong ing. Check size of neck opening. Stitch binding strips in the width that fits the side. Pin button band to front neckline, right shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam CUTTING binder. placing it in the middle of front panel allowances to one side and stitch them Design A: Cut garment pieces from along center-front line, and stitch it in flat across neckline binding. single jersey as indicated on list of pattern SEWING place close to edge. Sew four buttons on Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind- pieces, placing center-front and center- Construction techniques: Stitch seams button band as marked on pattern. ing. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch back edges of pattern pieces on fabric with serger or with overedge stretch Front, design B: Cut 12 cm piece of sleeve underarm seams and side seams. fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch clear elastic tape for gathering top edge Fold underarm seam allowances to one to all other edges except neckline and bottom hem with serger coverstitch or of front panel. Mark midpoint on piece side and stitch them flat across sleeve- bottom edges of sleeves. *Pattern piece with twin needle on regular sewing ma- of clear elastic tape. Machine-baste tape edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch for button band includes seam allowances. chine. See general instructions for finishing to top edge of front panel, placing it on bottom hem as marked on pattern. Design B: Cut garment pieces from edges with binding on p. 48. its right side between pattern markings; 12. Sweet Denim leggings 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Page 54

MATERIALS - 55-60-65-70-75-75-80 cm denim- look organic-cotton jersey knit (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% PATTERN PIECES cut - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 30 cm clear elastic tape, 1 1 pants panel 2 Framilon®, width 5 mm 2 2 pocket 2 - 46…52 cm elastic, width 20 mm - two , ø 6 mm PATTERN SHEET B green - piece of cotton fabric

CUTTING See general instructions for finishing edges Pin and stitch pockets to pants panels as met manufacturer’s instructions and place Cut garment pieces from jersey as indi- with binding on p. 48. marked on pattern. piece of cotton fabric to wrong side of cated on list of pattern pieces. Do not Pockets: Cut two 8 cm pieces of clear Joining: Cut two 7 cm pieces of clear waist under each to reinforce add seam allowances to opening edges elastic tape. Machine-baste pieces to seam elastic tape. Machine-baste pieces to leg- grommet area. Cut 70…80 cm piece for of pockets. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips allowances at opening edges of pockets, inseam seam allowances, placing them drawstring from strip cut from ribbing. from ribbing for finishing opening edges placing them between pattern markings between pattern markings and stretching Fold and press strip in three lengthwise of pockets as well as for drawstring. If and stretching them as you sew to gather them as you sew to gather inseam edges and stitch in the middle of strip. Fold and you use a binder attachment on your edges evenly. Finish opening edges of evenly. Fold up, press and stitch hems at press casing at waist. Place drawstring coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, pockets with binding. Sew row of ease- bottom edges of legs as marked on pat- within casing and thread its ends out cut the binding strips in the width that stitching along curved edges of each tern. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam seam through grommets. Trim drawstring to fits the binder. pocket. Make template for pocket by allowances at bottom edges of legs to desired length and stitch narrow hems tracing pocket outlines from pants panel one side and stitch them flat across width at its ends. Stitch waist casing. SEWING on cardboard and cutting template out. of bottom-leg hems. Place pants legs Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit Construction techniques: Stitch seams Lay pocket tem-plate on wrong side of within one another right sides together the child’s waist. Insert elastic into waist with serger or with overedge stretch pocket. Holding template and pocket and stitch crotch seam; leave small opening casing and stitch its ends together. Close stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch against ironing board, pull up bobbin across waist casing allowance at center opening on casing by hand-stitching. Se- waist casing, bottom-leg hems and draw- thread of ease-stitching and turn pocket back for inserting elastic. cure elastic and drawstring to casing by string with serger coverstitch or with seam allowances over edge of template Waistline: Attach grommets to waist stitching through all layers along center- twin needle on regular sewing machine. to wrong side. Press turned pocket edges. edge as marked on pattern. Follow grom- back seamline.

13. China Girl sweatshirt-knit dress 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Page 54

7 3 PATTERN PIECES cut 1 bodice front 1 2 bodice back 1 1 2 3 sleeve 2 MATERIALS 4 skirt front 1 - 70-75-80-80-85-90-95 cm printed 8 4 skirt back 1 sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), 5 pocket piece 2 stretch/recovery 30% 6 6 pocket facing 2 - piece of cotton single jersey 7 neckline binding 1 (CO/EL) for pocket facings 4 4 8 sleeve cuff 2 - 18 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 150…180 cm clear elastic tape, 5 PATTERN SHEET A brown Framilon®, width 5 mm CUTTING raglan seams and attachment seams of one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve will be concealed between seam allow- Cut neckline binding and sleeve cuffs from sleeve cuffs and neckline binding with flat- right sides together. Press seam open, ances). The purpose of clear elastic tapes ribbing, pocket facings from cotton single lock stitch on serger or with decorative fold cuff in half wrong sides together and is to prevent waist seam from stretching jersey and other garment pieces from overedge stitch on regular sewing machine pin its free edge to sleeve-edge seam. out of shape. Pin and stitch skirt panels sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of (e.g. honeycomb stitch). See general in- Stitch cuff in place from right side of to bodice panels. pattern pieces, placing center-front and structions for finishing edges with binding sleeve with flatlock stitch, aligning center Cut two 38-39-40-41-43-45-47 cm pieces center-back edges of pattern pieces on on p. 48. line of stitching with seamline. of clear elastic tape for bottom-hem edges fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- Pockets: Pin pocket facings to edges of Stitch ends of neckline binding together of skirt front and back. Mark midpoints ances to all other edges except pocket- pocket openings on skirt front wrong to form circle. Mark binding and neckline on clear elastic tapes. Machine-baste clear opening edges and bottom-hem edges. sides together and machine-baste them into quarters. Pin binding to neckline, elastic tapes to right side of bottom-hem Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from in place with straight stitch. Finish edges aligning its seam with one of the raglan edges, aligning midpoints of tapes with ribbing for finishing bottom hem and of pocket openings with binding. Pin seams on back. Stitch neckline binding to center-front and center-back marks and edges of pocket openings. If you use a pocket pieces to pocket facings right sides neckline in the same way as cuffs to stretching tapes as you sew to gather binder attachment on your coverstitch together and stitch bottom of each pocket sleeves. edges beautifully. Stitch left sleeve-under- machine to attach the bindings, cut the with serger. Machine-baste top edges of Fold at waist edges of skirt front arm and side seam as continuous seam. binding strips in the width that fits the pockets to waist seam allowances and and back as marked on pattern and ma- Finish bottom-hem edge with binding. binder. their side edges to side seam allowances. chine-baste them in position. Cut pieces Stitch right sleeve-underarm seam and Joining: Pin sleeves to bodice front and of clear elastic tape for waist edges of side seam. Fold seam allowances to one SEWING back right sides together and stitch raglan bodice front and back (measure required side and stitch them flat across bottom- seams with straight stitch. Press raglan lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add hem binding and for approx. 2 cm at Construction techniques: Stitch seams bottom edges of sleeves. with serger or with overedge stretch seams open and topstitch them with flat- seam allowances). Machine-baste clear stitch on regular sewing machine. Topstitch lock stitch. Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom elastic tapes to right side of waist seam edges of sleeves as follows: Pin and stitch allowances (on finished garment, tapes 14. Choco Pops outerwear coverall 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 6-7

PATTERN PIECES cut Shell 4 Shell 6 9 10 1+1A front 2 MATERIALS 2+2 A back 2 3 sleeve 2 - 120-130-140-145-155-165- 4 collar 2 170 cm tightly-woven outerwear 1 2 5 hood 2 fabric (CO or CO/PES) for shell 5 6 hood facing 2 - 90-95-100-105-110-115-120 cm 7 sleeve cuff 2 striped cotton single jersey 8 bottom-leg cuff 2 (CO/EL) for lining 9 zipper shield 1 - 35-40-40-45-45-45-45 cm lining 3 10 snap band 1 fabric (CV/PES) for lower sleeve and leg panels of lining Lining jersey lining - 130-135-140-150-160-165- fabric 170 cm lightweight microfiber 1A 2A 1 front 2 - knit batting (Warm-Fill) 1A lower front-leg - piece of interfacing, panel - 2 8 7 Vlieseline® H 180 2 back 2 - - zipper, length 38-39-41-42-44- 2A lower back-leg 45-46 cm (with 6 mm wide coil) Lining panel - 2 - four snap fasteners, ø 10 mm, 3 sleeve 2 - Prym Anorak 3 lower sleeve - 5 cm Velcro tape (both hook and 1 2 panel - 2 loop sides) 5 5 hood 2 - - 100…110 cm elastic, Batting width 25 mm 1+1A front 2 - 40…50 cm elastic cord, 2+2A back 2 ø 2.5 mm 3 sleeve 2 - two-hole cord lock 3 4 collar 1 - two grommets, ø 4 mm 5 hood 2 - 10 cm narrow ribbon for hanging loop 3 1A 2A PATTERN SHEET C black - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80

CUTTING panels and machine-baste them to batting pieces on the outside of inner corner of Pin and stitch ends of hanging loop to Shell: Join pattern pieces 1+1A and panels close to outer edge of seam allow- hood. Round corners of Velcro tapes be- seam allowance at bottom edge of inner 2+2A before cutting. Cut shell pieces ances with straight stitch (use longest fore stitching them to hood. collar, placing them on each side of center- from outerwear fabric as indicated on stitch length). Trim excess batting off on Joining lining: Pin and stitch lower leg back mark. list of pattern pieces, placing center-back edges. Pin lining hood panels right sides panels to lining fronts and backs and lower Joining shell: Pin shell fronts and backs edges of pattern pieces for collar and together and stitch top/center-back seam. sleeve panels to lining sleeves right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Pin and snap band fabric fold and adding 1 cm Press seam open. together. Press seam allowances onto stitch crotch/center-back seam, starting seam allowances to other edges. Attach grommets to shell hood panels lining-fabric panels. Pin lining panels to stitching at notch for zipper placket on Batting: Cut batting pieces with patterns as marked on pattern. Pin shell hood pan- batting panels and machine-baste them front and ending it at back neckline. Pin for shell as indicated on list of pattern els right sides together and stitch top/ to batting panels close to outer edge of shell sleeves to shell front and back and pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern center-back seam. Fold seam allowances seam allowances with straight stitch (use stitch raglan seams. Fold seam allowances piece for collar on fabric fold and adding to one side and topstitch seam with two longest stitch length). Trim excess batting toward sleeves and topstitch seams with 2-3 cm seam allowances to other edges. parallel rows of stitching. Place shell hood from edges of all panels. two parallel rows of stitching. Stitch sleeve Note that batting pieces are trimmed to and lining hood within one another, right Pin lining fronts and backs right sides to- underarm seams and side seams, starting exact size only after they have been ma- sides together, and pin and stitch their gether and stitch leg inseams. Pin and stitching at bottom edges of sleeves and chine-basted to lining panels. face edges together. Clip seam allowances stitch crotch/center-back seam, starting ending it at bottom edges of legs. Stitch along curves and understitch them to bottom edge of outer collar piece to Lining: Trace pattern piece for lining stitching at notch for zipper placket on hood facing close to seamline. Thread front and ending it at back neckline. Pin neckline of shell. Clip neckline seam al- hood from pattern for shell hood, observ- cord lock onto elastic cord and slide it lowances along curves. Press seams on ing pattern markings (see small-scale lining sleeves to lining front and back and to the middle of cord. Thread ends of stitch raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm shell. patterns). Cut lower front-leg and back- elastic cord through grommets to inside leg panels as well as lower sleeve panels seams and side seams of lining, starting Bottom edges of sleeves and legs: of hood. Adjust length of cord to have stitching at bottom edges of sleeves and Cut two 21-21-21-22-22-23-23 cm pieces from lining fabric and other lining pieces snug fit on hood and stitch its ends to from single jersey as indicated on list of ending it at bottom edges of legs. Press of 25 mm wide elastic for bottom edges seam allowances at face edge of hood as seams on lining. of sleeves and two 27-27-27-28-28-29- pattern pieces, adding 1 cm seam allow- marked on pattern. ances to all edges. Collar: Turn seam allowances at top 29 cm pieces for bottom edges of legs. Stitch front and bottom edges of hood edge and both ends of snap band to wrong Stitch ends of each elastic together to SEWING sections together, leaving approx. 10 cm side. Pin snap band to right side of outer form circles. Stitch ends of each sleeve opening for turning across center-back cuff and bottom-leg cuff together to form Construction techniques: Stitch seams collar piece, aligning bottom edge of band seam. Trim corners, trim seam allowances with bottom edge of collar, and stitch it circles. Press joining seams open, fold cuffs with straight stitch. No seam finish is all around if necessary and turn hood in half wrong sides together and press. necessary as the garment is fully lined. in place close to turned-under edges. right side out. Press face edge of hood Attach stud halves of snap fasteners to Place elastics within cuffs and stitch open Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shell gently. Pin face edge so that elastic cord snap band as marked on pattern. edges of each cuff together close to elastic hood panels at pattern markings for grom- lies close to face edge. Stitch casing along (use zipper foot so that you can stitch as mets as well as to snap band and zipper face edge of hood as marked on pattern. Pin inner collar piece to batting collar close to outer edge of elastic as possible). shield (see areas shaded in grey on small- Turn seam allowances at edges of opening piece and machine-baste it to batting Sew another row of stitching through all scale patterns). for turning in, pin edges together and piece along outer edge of seam allow- layers in the middle of each cuff, stretching stitch close to edge. Stitch pieces of Velcro ances. Trim excess batting from edges. elastic as you sew. Pin and stitch cuffs to Hood: Pin and stitch hood facings to tape to front corners of hood as marked Pin inner and outer collar pieces right bottom edges of sleeves and legs of shell, lining hood panels. Understitch seam al- on pattern, placing loop tape as one piece sides together and stitch their top edges right sides together. lowances to facings close to seamline. on the inside of outer corner of hood together. Understitch seam allowances Pin lining hood panels to hood batting and cutting hook tape in half and stitching to inner collar piece close to seamline. Joining shell and lining: Pin and stitch Fold top end of zipper shield back onto place sleeves and legs within one another. same way. Turn center-front seam allow- bottom edge of inner collar piece to zipper and machine-baste in position. Secure bottom edges of lining sleeves to ances of shell to wrong side, pin center- neckline of lining right sides together. Clip Open zipper. Pin and stitch zipper to bottom edges of shell sleeves with a front edges of shell to zipper placket neckline seam allowances along curves. center-front edges of lining and inner couple of from right side, making edges of lining and stitch them in place Fold zipper shield piece in half, right sides collar piece, with wrong side of zipper sure that lining sleeves are not twisted. close to edge. together, and stitch its top and bottom facing right side of lining and aligning top Push your hand between shell and lining Finishing: Attach socket halves of snap edges. Turn zipper shield right side out, end of zipper with top edge of collar. through garment’s front edges and pull fasteners to bottom edge of hood; deter- press it and machine-baste its open edges Pin and stitch neckline seam allowances bottom edges of sleeves out one at a mine placement of snaps to match snap together. Pin zipper to right edge of zipper of shell and lining together, starting from time. Stitch sleeve edges of shell and lining halves on collar. Steam elastics at bottom shield as marked on pattern, turn end of center-back mark and stitching as far right sides together, with sleeve cuffs in edges of sleeves and legs to shrink them right zipper tape under and machine- along front panels as possible. Place lining between. Pin and stitch bottom edges of back to their actual length. baste right zipper tape to zipper shield. within shell wrong sides together and legs of shell and lining together in the

15. Eye See You beanie head circumference 48-50-52-54-56 cm Pages 4-6, 11, 13-15

A 1 MATERIALS For : B - 30-35 cm jersey, knit terry, velour Design A: label to be inserted into knit, fleece or similar stretch material seam with stretch/recovery of 20-30% Design B: two pairs of iron-on eyes Design A: knit terry (CO/PES) for Design C: pair of iron-on eyes, exterior and cotton single jersey PATTERN PIECES cut piece of yellow fabric and piece of C (CO/EL) for lining double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Design B and C: fleece for exterior Vliesofix D 1 beanie panel, exterior 2 1 beanie panel, lining 2 and cotton single jersey (CO/EL) Design D: iron-on vinyl beak, design C for lining star, design D Design D: wide-striped and narrow- striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL) PATTERN SHEET C red for exterior and lining CUTTING SEWING Design D: Cut a circle from iron-on vinyl ie exterior and stitch it with flatlock stitch Exterior: Cut exterior panels from knit, Construction techniques: Stitch seams and cut star-shaped opening in the middle on serger or with decorative overedge adding 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. with serger or with overedge stretch of it. Fuse vinyl circle to exterior front stitch (e.g. honeycomb stitch) on regular On design D, front panel is cut from wide- stitch on regular sewing machine. panel by ironing, placing its bottom edge sewing machine. 6 cm above bottom-edge foldline. striped and back panel from narrow- Preparation: Finishing, design C: Trace bird’s beak on striped jersey. Joining: Stitch darts on beanie exterior paper backing of fusible web. Iron fusible Design A: Machine-baste label to side Lining: Cut lining panels from knit, adding and lining panels. Place exterior panels web onto wrong side of yellow fabric and edge of exterior front panel, placing it right sides together and stitch side/top cut beak out along its outlines. Remove 5 mm seam allowances to all edges. Note 6 cm above bottom-edge foldline. that bottom edge of lining is cut along seam. Stitch lining panels together in the paper backing from fusible web and fuse pattern lines marking foldlines of beanie Designs B and C: Fuse pairs of eyes on same way. Place lining within beanie exte- beak to beanie by ironing, placing it be- exterior without adding seam allowance. exterior panels by ironing, placing their rior wrong sides together, aligning its bot- tween eyes. Stitch beak in place with bottom edges approx. 6 cm above bot- tom edge with foldline on beanie exterior. straight stitch or with narrow, short zigzag tom-edge foldline. Fold and pin hem at bottom edge of bean- stitch.

16. Mushroom jersey top 92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Page 12

8 5 4 PATTERN PIECES cut 6 1 front 1 MATERIALS 2 back 1 3 sleeve 2 - 50-50-50-55-55-60 cm 1 2 3 4 inner pocket piece 2 printed cotton single jersey 5 outer pocket piece 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 6 neckline binding 1 - 20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 7 sleeve cuff 2 width 90 cm 8 pocket welt 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 7 PATTERN SHEET B grey CUTTING stitch. Stitch bottom hem and topstitch Pockets: Stitch guide stitching for both of pocket opening right sides together Cut neckline binding, sleeve cuffs and attachment seams of neckline binding and pocket openings on front panel with and stitch it in place along guide stitching. pocket welts from ribbing and other gar- sleeve cuffs with flatlock stitch on serger straight stitch (cut out portion of pocket Slash pocket opening observing pattern ment pieces from single jersey as indi- or with decorative overedge stitch on opening from pattern piece for front and markings; note that corners of pocket cated on list of pattern pieces, placing regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb use pattern as template for stitching). opening are clipped diagonally to guide center-front and center-back edges of stitch). Fold pocket welt in half wrong sides to- stitching. Fold both pocket pieces to pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding Stabilizing: Cut 1 cm wide strips from gether. Stitch folded welt to edge of pocket wrong side. Understitch seam allowances 1 cm seam allowances to other edges. interfacing and fuse them to wrong side opening closest to center-front line on at attachment edge of outer pocket piece of shoulder seam allowances on back right side of front panel; make sure to to pocket piece close to seamline. Pin SEWING panel (measure required length of strips stitch along guide stitching and to start triangles, formed at each end of pocket and end stitching at marked seamlines at opening, to inner pocket piece and pocket Construction techniques: Stitch seams on pattern piece and add seam allow- ances). Fuse pieces of interfacing to front ends of pocket opening. Pin straight edge welt and stitch ends of pocket opening with serger or with overedge stretch of outer pocket piece to edge of pocket along guide stitching. Pin pocket pieces stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch panel over pattern lines marking pocket openings. See areas shaded in grey on welt right sides together and stitch it in right sides together and stitch them to- pockets with straight stitch and finish place along previous stitching line. gether. Finish pocket seam allowances seams on them with serger or zigzag small-scale pattern pieces. Pin inner pocket piece to the other edge together. >>> Joining: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom pin its free edge to sleeve-edge seam. neckline binding together to form circle. underarm seams and side seams. Fold edges of sleeves as follows: Pin and stitch Stitch cuff in place from right side of Mark both binding and neckline into underarm seam allowances to one side one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve sleeve with flatlock stitch, aligning center quarters. Stitch neckline binding to neck- and stitch them flat for a couple of cen- right sides together. Press seam open, line of stitching with seamline. line in the same way as cuffs to sleeves. timeters at sleeve edges. Fold up, press fold cuff in half wrong sides together and Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch ends of Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve and stitch bottom hem.

17. French Drops outerwear jacket 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 11, 13

PATTERN PIECES cut

Shell Poplin Batting 15 11 front panel 14 right 1 - left 1 - 12 back 1 - 3 sleeve 2 - 13 collar 2 1 5 hood 2 2 11 11 12 6 6 hood facing 2 - 7 sleeve cuff 2 - 10 snap band 1 - 14 zipper shield 1 - 10 15 pocket 2 - 13 3 Lining 11 right front panel 1 1 11 left front panel 1 1 5 12 back 1 1 3 sleeve 2 2 5 hood 2 -

7 PATTERN SHEET C black

Lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining shell-front panel as marked on pattern lining sleeves within one another but MATERIALS front panels, back and hood observing and stitch it in place close to edge, closing bring bottom edges of sleeves end to end - 90-95-95-100-105-110-115 cm markings on small-scale patterns. Cut opening for turning at the same time. and stitch, making sure that sleeves are front panels from brown poplin and other Stitch bar-tacks (= 8 mm long rows of not twisted. Turn garment right side out tightly-woven printed cotton poplin lining pieces from green poplin as indicated reinforcing stitching sewn with narrow, through bottom hem. Topstitch edges of (CO) for shell on list of pattern pieces, placing center- short zigzag) at each end of pocket open- front placket. Machine-baste necklines of - 45-50-50-50-55-55-60 cm back edge of pattern piece for back on ing using neon-color thread. shell and lining together, stitching within solid-color brown and 50-60-65- fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- seam allowance. Align bottom edge of 65-70-70-75 cm solid-color green Joining shell: Pin sleeves to front and ances to other edges except bottom- back panels and stitch raglan seams. Clip lining with bottom-hem foldline on shell cotton poplin (CO) for trims hem edges of front and back panels. Note! seam allowances along curves, fold them and pin and stitch bottom hem. and lining Lay pattern pieces on wrong side of fabric toward sleeves and topstitch seams. Stitch Collar: Turn seam allowances at top - 100-105-110-110-115-120-120 cm when cutting lining pieces. sleeve underarm seams and side seams. edge and both ends of snap band to wrong lightweight microfiber Batting: Cut batting pieces as indicated Press seams open. Fold up and press side. Pin snap band to right side of outer knit batting (Warm-Fill) on list of pattern pieces, placing center- bottom hem as marked on pattern. Con- collar piece, aligning bottom edge of band - 10 cm interfacing, back edges of pattern pieces on fabric struct sleeve cuffs following instructions with bottom edge of collar, and stitch it Vlieseline® H 180 fold and adding 2-3 cm seam allowances for design 14. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges in place close to turned-under edges. - open-end zipper (plastic-molded to other edges. Note that batting pieces of shell sleeves right sides together. Attach stud halves of snap fasteners to zipper, width of teeth 6 mm), are trimmed to exact size only after they Fold zipper shield piece in half, right sides snap band as marked on pattern. length 35-37-39-41-43-45-47 cm have been machine-basted to lining panels. together, and stitch its bottom edge. Turn Pin inner collar piece to batting collar - 42…46 cm elastic, width 25 mm shield right side out and machine-baste piece and machine-baste it to batting - four snap fasteners, ø 10 mm, SEWING its open edges together. Open zipper. Pin piece along outer edge of seam allow- Prym Anorak Construction techniques: Stitch seams and machine-baste left zipper tape to ances. Trim excess batting from edges. - 12 cm Velcro tape (both hook with straight stitch. No seam finish is nec- open edge of zipper shield, both zipper Pin inner and outer collar pieces right and loop sides) essary as the garment is fully lined. Top- tape and shield right side up. Pin and stitch sides together and stitch their top edges stitch seams and edges with two parallel both zipper halves (left half with zipper together. Understitch top-edge seam - 40…50 cm elastic cord, ø 2.5 mm rows of stitching unless otherwise in- shield) to front placket edges of front allowances to inner collar piece close to - two-hole cord lock structed. panels right sides together, aligning bottom seamline. Place collar halves right sides - two grommets, ø 4 mm ends of zipper tapes with bottom-hem together and stitch ends of collar as well - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shell hood panels at pattern markings for grom- foldline. (If necessary, make very small as its bottom edge from each end to width 8 mm, for hanging loop mets as well as to snap band and zipper clips along outer edges of zipper tapes pattern marking. - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 shield (see areas shaded in grey on small- to make zipper curve beautifully.) Pin and stitch bottom edge of inner collar - neon-color thread for stitching scale patterns). Joining lining: Pin sleeves to front and piece to lining side of neckline right sides bar-tacks Preparation: Pin lining panels, except back panels and stitch raglan seams. Clip together. Turn seam allowance at bottom hood, to batting panels and machine-baste seam allowances along curves. Stitch edge of outer collar piece under and pin them to batting panels close to outer sleeve underarm seams and side seams. and stitch edge to neckline. Topstitch edge of seam allowances with straight Press seams on lining. Pin and stitch ends around collar close to edge at the same stitch (use longest stitch length). Trim of hanging loop to neckline seam allow- time. Stitch pieces of Velcro tape to collar excess batting from edges of panels. ance on lining back panel, placing them as marked on pattern, placing 6 cm piece CUTTING on each side of center-back mark. of loop tape horizontally and two 3 cm Shell: Cut pocket pieces, hood facings, Hood: Construct hood following instruc- pieces of hook tape vertically. tions for design 14. Cut 6 cm piece of Joining shell and lining: At this stage, zipper shield and snap band from brown shell and lining are inside out. Place shell Finishing: Attach socket halves of snap poplin and other garment pieces from Velcro loop tape and two 3 cm pieces of Velcro hook tape for hood. and lining right sides together and stitch fasteners to bottom edge of hood; deter- printed poplin as indicated on list of pat- their front placket edges together, with mine placement of snaps to match snap tern pieces, placing center-back edges of Pocket: Pin and stitch pocket pieces right zipper halves in between. Pin and stitch halves on collar. Steam elastics at bottom pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding sides together, leaving opening for turning bottom edges of shell and lining sleeves edges of sleeves to shrink them back to 1 cm seam allowances to other edges. at one edge. Trim outward corners, clip right sides together, with sleeve cuffs in their actual length. Note! Lay pattern pieces on right side of to stitching at inward corners and turn between. Note! Do not place shell and fabric when cutting shell pieces. pocket right side out. Pin pocket to right 18. Play Safe outerwear pants with lining 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 11-15

MATERIALS 5 - 60-65-70-75-80-80-85 cm tightly-woven outerwear fabric (CO/PES), green for design A and 2 PATTERN PIECES cut black for design B 1 - piece of brown outerwear fabric 4 Shell Lining for knee patches, design A 1 pants front 2 2 - piece of contrast-color outerwear 2 pants back 2 2 fabric for trims 1 knee patch 2 - - 55-60-60-65-70-75-80 cm 3 3 pocket facing 2 - lightweight quilted lining fabric 4 pocket piece 2 - - 110…120 cm elastic, 5 1 - width 25 mm 6 bottom-leg cuff 2 - - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, width 8 mm, for hanging loop 6 PATTERN SHEET B orange - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80

CUTTING parallel rows of stitching unless otherwise patches to pants fronts as marked on crotch seam. Stitch side seams and leave Shell: Cut off corner piece from pattern instructed. pattern, both right sides up, and stitch 15 cm opening for turning in one side piece for pants front along line marking Pockets: Fold and press piping strips in them in place with two parallel rows of seam. Pin and stitch ends of hanging loop pocket opening (see small-scale pattern). half, wrong sides together. Cut pieces of stitching. to waist seam allowance of lining, placing Cut shell pieces from outerwear fabric piping trims for pocket openings and Joining shell: Stitch leg inseams, fold them on each side of center-back seam. as indicated on list of pattern pieces, machine-baste them to opening edges of seam allowances toward pants backs and Joining shell and lining: Press seams placing center-front edge of pattern piece pocket facings right sides together, placing topstitch seams. Stitch crotch seam. Stitch on shell and lining and turn both inside for waistband on fabric fold and adding stitching approx. 2 mm away from folded side seams. Press seam allowances toward out. Pin and stitch waist edges of shell 1 cm seam allowances to other edges. edge of piping. Pin pocket facing to edge pants backs. Stitch bar-tacks along side and lining right sides together, with waist- Note that knee patches for design A are of pocket opening on pants front, right seams at bottom ends of pocket openings band in between. Pin and stitch bottom cut from brown fabric. Cut also 24 mm sides together, and stitch along stitching with narrow, short zigzag stitch. edges of legs of shell and lining right sides wide strips on the bias from contrast- line that attaches piping trim. Clip seam Waistline and bottom edges of legs: together, with bottom-leg cuffs in between. color fabric for piping trims (measure allowances on curved edge of pocket Cut two 27-27-27-28-28-29-29 cm pieces Note! Do not place shell and lining legs required lengths of trims on pattern opening and understitch them to pocket of 25 mm wide elastic for bottom edges within one another but bring bottom pieces: along curved edge of knee patch facing. Fold pocket facing to wrong side of legs. Construct bottom-leg cuffs fol- edges of legs end to end and stitch, making and along edge of pocket opening on and topstitch edge of pocket opening. Pin lowing instructions for design 14. Stitch sure that legs are not twisted. pocket facing). pocket piece to pocket facing right sides cuffs to bottom edges of legs of shell Shell and lining are now joined at bottom Lining: Cut lining pieces from lining fabric together and stitch outer edges of pocket. right sides together. Measure and cut edges of legs and at waist, forming a circle as indicated on list of pattern pieces, Machine-baste side edge of pocket to piece of elastic to fit the child (length of (one half of which is shell and the other adding 1 cm seam allowances to all edges. pants side seam allowance and top edge elastic = child’s waist minus 5…6 cm). lining). Push your hand through opening of pocket to waist seam allowance. Construct waistband in the same way as for turning and pull bottom edges of legs SEWING Knee patches: Cut pieces of piping trims bottom-leg cuffs. Stitch waistband to waist and waist edge out one at a time. Close Construction techniques: Stitch seams for knee patches and machine-baste them edge of shell right sides together, aligning opening for turning and turn pants right with straight stitch. No seam finish is to curved edges of patches right sides seam on waistband with center-back seam side out. Steam elastics at bottom edges necessary as the pants are fully lined. together, placing stitching approx. 2 mm on shell. of legs and at waist to shrink them back Topstitch seams and edges with two away from folded edge of piping. Pin knee Joining lining: Stitch leg inseams. Stitch to their actual length.

19. Cosy Piece neckwarmer 92/98/104 -110/116/122 cm Pages 3, 11, 13

MATERIALS - 30 cm knit terry (CO/PES) and cotton single jersey (CO/EL), PATTERN PIECES cut stretch/recovery 30% 1 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 1 neckwarmer 1+1 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 - three snap fasteners, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET C grey

CUTTING SEWING Joining: Pin neckwarmer pieces wrong edge and, when you return to the starting Cut neckwarmer pieces from both knit Construction techniques: Stitch ma- sides together and machine-baste their point, turn the binding away from the terry and single jersey as indicated on list chine-basting with straight stitch. See outer edges together with straight stitch. edge and leave a little extra at its end. of pattern pieces. Do not add seam al- general instructions for finishing edges Finish edges with binding. If you use a Wrap end of binding to wrong side, stitch lowances to pieces. Cut 3.5 cm wide with binding on p. 48. regular sewing machine for attaching the it to neckwarmer edge along stitching binding strip from ribbing for finishing binding, cut the binding to the required line that attaches binding and trim excess Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas length and stitch its ends together to binding off close to stitching. edges. If you use a binder attachment on shaded in grey on small-scale pattern and your coverstitch machine to attach the form a circle first. If you use a binder on Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to cen- fuse them in place to wrong side of outer a coverstitch machine, start applying the binding, cut the binding strip in the width neckwarmer piece. ter-back edges as marked on pattern. that fits the binder. binding in the middle of the center-back 20. Dots in Square dress 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 58

CUTTING back and add seam allowances). Machine- 4 Cut neckline binding from small polka- baste tapes to right side of waist seam dot jersey and other garment pieces from allowances on bodice front and back and large polka-dot jersey as indicated on list to right side of shoulder seam allowances of pattern pieces, placing center-front and on bodice back (on finished garment, 1 1 center-back edges of pattern pieces on tapes will be concealed between seam fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- allowances). ances to all other edges except neckline. Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish *Pattern piece for neckline binding in- neckline with binding. Check size of neck 2 cludes seam allowances. opening. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold 3 shoulder seam allowances to one side SEWING and stitch them flat across neckline bind- Construction techniques: Stitch seams ing. Fold pleats at waist edges of skirt with serger or with overedge stretch panels as marked on pattern and machine- stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch baste them in position. Pin skirt panels bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with to bodice front and back and stitch waist PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS serger coverstitch or with twin needle seams. - 95-100-105-110-115-120-125 cm on regular sewing machine. Stitch ma- Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom 1 bodice front 1 chine-basting with straight stitch. See edges of sleeves as marked on pattern. 1 bodice back 1 large polka-dot and 5 cm small Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve polka-dot organic-cotton single general instructions for finishing edges 2 sleeve 2 with binding on p. 48. underarm seams and side seams as con- jersey (CO/EL), tinuous seams. Fold underarm seam al- 3 skirt panel 2 stretch/recovery 30% Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic lowances to one side and stitch them flat 4 neckline binding* 1 - 130…150 cm clear elastic tape, tape for stabilizing waist and shoulder across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press Framilon®, width 5 mm seams (measure required lengths of tape and stitch bottom hem as marked on PATTERN SHEET C orange on pattern pieces for bodice front and pattern.

21. Fancy Striped leggings 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 55, 59

CUTTING tifully. (On finished garment, clear elastic 1 Cut garment pieces from single jersey as tapes are concealed between seam allow- indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding ances.) Stitch darts, stretching gathered 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. Note portions as you sew. Fold up, press and that bottom-leg panels of striped leggings stitch hems on bottom-leg panels as are cut on the crosswise grain. marked on pattern. Stitch bottom-leg panels to pants panels. Stitch leg inseams. SEWING Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom 2 edges of legs to one side and stitch them Construction techniques: Stitch seams flat across bottom-leg hems. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch Place pants legs within one another right waist casing and bottom-leg hems with sides together and stitch crotch seam; MATERIALS serger coverstitch or with twin needle leave small opening across waist casing - 45-50-60-65-70-75-75 cm striped on regular sewing machine. Stitch ma- allowance at center back for inserting chine-basting with straight stitch. elastic. Stitch waist casing. Measure and PATTERN PIECES cut or 60-60-65-65-70-70-70 cm solid- cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s waist. color organic-cotton single jersey Joining: Cut two 10 cm pieces of clear Insert elastic into waist casing and stitch 1 pants panel 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% elastic tape and machine-baste them to its ends together. Close opening on casing 2 bottom-leg panel 2 - 52…59 cm elastic, width 20 mm seam allowances of darts on pants panels, by hand-stitching. Secure elastic to waist - 20 cm clear elastic tape, placing them between pattern markings casing by stitching through all layers along Framilon®, width 5 mm on right side of pants panels; stretch tapes center-back seamline. PATTERN SHEET C green evenly as you sew to gather edges beau-

22. Snow-White and Rose-Red tunic 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Page 55

7 6 8 5 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 bodice front 1 - 35-35-40-40-40-45-45 cm rose- 1 2 2 bodice back 1 patterned and 35-35-40-40- 3 sleeve 2 45-45-50 cm fairytale-patterned 3 3 sleeve cuff 2 organic-cotton single jersey 4 skirt panel 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 5 button band 1 - 10 cm polka-dot cotton single 6 trim for front* 1 jersey (CO/EL), 7 trim for sleeve* 2 stretch/recovery 30% 4 8 neckline binding* 1 - 90…110 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm - four small buttons, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET C blue CUTTING allowances. Cut sleeve cuffs and skirt pieces, placing center-front and center- *Cut trims and neckline binding from panels from fairytale-patterned and other back edges of pattern pieces on fabric polka-dot single jersey. Pattern pieces for garment pieces from rose-patterned single fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances trims and neckline binding include seam jersey as indicated on list of pattern to all other edges except neckline. >>> SEWING tapes into halves and machine-baste them or with narrow, short zigzag. Sew two for sleeves and gather trims to length of Construction techniques: Stitch seams to right side of waist seam allowances on rows of gathering stitches in the middle 10 cm. Machine-baste trims to armholes with serger or with overedge stretch skirt panels (on finished garment, tapes of trim for front and gather trim to fit right sides together. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch will be concealed between seam allow- between pattern markings on button Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with ances). Stretch clear elastic tapes as you band. Pin and machine-baste trim in the edges of sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern. serger coverstitch or with twin needle sew to gather skirt panels evenly. middle of bodice front. Turn seam allow- Stitch sleeve cuffs to sleeves right sides on regular sewing machine. See general Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for ances at long edges of button band to together. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Pin instructions for finishing edges with bind- stabilizing shoulder seams (measure re- wrong side, pin button band to bodice skirt panels to bodice front and back right ing on p. 48. quired length of tape on pattern piece front on top of trim and stitch it in place sides together and stitch waist seams. close to edge. Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic for bodice back and add seam allowances). Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side tape for gathering skirt panels (measure Machine-baste tapes to right side of shoul- Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline seams. Fold underarm seam allowances required lengths of tape along waist edges der seam allowances on bodice back. with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. to one side and stitch them flat across of pattern pieces for bodice front and Joining: Finish outer edges of trims for Fold shoulder seam allowances to one sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch back and add seam allowances). Mark front and sleeves with serger rolled hem side and stitch them flat across neckline bottom hem as marked on pattern. Sew binding. Sew gathering stitches on trims buttons on button band as .

23. Flare Hem jersey skirt 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Page 55

CUTTING back seams; leave opening for inserting Cut garment pieces from single jersey as elastic in center-back seam across waist indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding casing allowance. Pin skirt front and back 2 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. together and stitch side seams. Fold, press and stitch waist casing and bottom hem SEWING as marked on pattern. Construction techniques: Stitch seams Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit with serger or with overedge stretch the child’s waist. Insert elastic into waist casing and stitch its ends together. Close MATERIALS stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch PATTERN PIECES cut waist casing and bottom hem with serger opening on casing by hand-stitching. - 35-35-45-50-60-65-75 cm printed coverstitch or with twin needle on regular Stretch elastic to spread gathers at waist organic-cotton single jersey 2 skirt panel 4 sewing machine. evenly. Pin elastic to waist casing at side (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% seams and stitch it in place through all Joining: Pin skirt panels together first in layers along side seamlines. - 50…57 cm elastic, width 20 mm PATTERN SHEET C red pairs and stitch center-front and center-

24 . Bambi and Owl tunic 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Pages 56-57

7 9 PATTERN PIECES cut

5 1 front 1 2 2 back 1 1 3 upper sleeve panel 2 4 lower sleeve panel 2 MATERIALS 6 5 small pocket 1 - 70-75-75-80-85-90-95 cm light- 6 large pocket 1 weight printed cotton fabric (CO) 7 neckline binding* 1 - pieces of red and blue small- 8 sleeve-edge binding* 2 3 patterned cotton fabric for 9 binding for back placket* 1 4 pockets and binding strips (CO) 8 - one small button, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET D green CUTTING pattern. Sew row of ease-stitching along under and stitch turned-under edge to edge. Fold up, press and stitch bottom Cut small pocket, neckline binding and curved edge of each pocket. Make card- right side of placket close to edge. Lay hem as marked on pattern. binding for back placket from red small- board templates with pattern pieces for placket in position, pin its edges right Neckline and sleeve edges: Sew rows patterned fabric, large pocket and sleeve- pockets. Lay pocket template on wrong sides together and stitch small at of gathering stitches along neckline and edge bindings from blue small-patterned side of pocket. Holding template and bottom of placket from wrong side. bottom edges of sleeves. Gather neckline fabric and other garment pieces from pocket against ironing board, pull up bob- Cut 1.2 cm x 8 cm strip from red small- to fit neckline binding and sleeve edges printed cotton fabric as indicated on list bin thread of ease-stitching and turn patterned fabric for button loop. Press to fit sleeve-edge bindings. Stitch ends of of pattern pieces, placing center-front and pocket seam allowances over edge of strip in half lengthwise, turn seam allow- each sleeve-edge binding together to form center-back edges of pattern pieces on template to wrong side. Press turned ances on its long edges in and stitch edges circle. Pin and stitch right side of binding fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- pocket edges. Pin and stitch pockets to together. Fold strip into button loop, to wrong side of sleeve edge. Wrap binding ances to all other edges except neckline front panel as marked on pattern. check length of loop and machine-baste over sleeve edge to right side, turn seam and bottom edges of sleeves. *Pattern Back placket: Slash placket opening at loop to neckline corner of back placket. allowance on its free edge under and pieces for neckline binding, sleeve-edge neckline of back panel as marked on Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top stitch turned-under edge to sleeve edge. binding and binding for back placket in- pattern. Place right side of placket binding edges of lower sleeve panels as marked Copy pattern markings for center-front clude seam allowances. to wrong side of slashed placket opening, on pattern and gather edges to fit upper point and for points to be matched with spread slash open, and pin and stitch bind- sleeve panels. Pin and stitch upper and raglan seams and shoulder marks on SEWING ing to edge of placket; place stitching lower sleeve panels right sides together. neckline binding. Pin and stitch right side Construction techniques: Stitch seams 5 mm away from placket edge at neckline Press seam allowances gently toward of binding to wrong side of neckline. with straight stitch and finish them with and only 2 mm away from placket edge upper sleeve panels. Pin sleeves to front Wrap binding over neck edge to right serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching at bottom of placket, while leaving even and back right sides together and stitch side, turn seam allowance on its free edge close to edge or seamline. 5 mm seam allowance all along edge of raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm and and both ends under and stitch turned- binding (see illustration). Fold binding in side seams as continuous seams from under edge to neckline close to edge. Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at half, turn seam allowance on its free edge bottom edge of sleeve to bottom-hem opening edges of pockets as marked on Sew button at neckline. 25. Jump Rope stretch jeans and corduroys 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Pages 4-5, 56-58

4 MATERIALS - 70-75-80-85-90-90-95 cm colored stretch denim 3 (CO/PES/EL) or stretch corduroy 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 10% PATTERN PIECES cut - 5 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 1 pants front 1+1 - 25…30 cm elastic, width 30 mm 2 bottom-leg panel 2 - 35…40 cm buttonhole elastic, 3 pants back 2 width 15 mm* 5 4 waistband 1 - two flat buttons, ø 15 mm* 5 front pocket 2 - snap fastener, ø 15 mm 6 back pocket 2 - two for leg bottoms, length 15 cm 2 6 PATTERN SHEET D red - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 *ABOUT DESIGN curved edge of each pocket. Make card- fly extensions right sides together. Finish lengthwise and press. Open waistband. The pants have 30 mm wide sewn-in board templates with pattern pieces for crotch seam allowances and serge or Lay elastic over back-waist portion of elastic at the back waist. If you wish, you pockets. Lay pocket template on wrong zigzag edges of mock fly extensions to- inner (non-interfaced) half of waistband, can add separate, adjustable buttonhole side of pocket. Holding template and gether at the same time. Fold crotch seam aligning its edge with foldline on waistband, elastic to the back waist. pocket against ironing board, pull up allowances toward right pants front and and pin ends of elastic to waistband at bobbin thread of ease-stitching and turn back and topstitch crotch seam. Fold pattern markings to be matched with side CUTTING pocket seam allowances over edge of mock fly extensions toward right pants seams. Machine-baste elastic in place along template to wrong side. Press turned front and stitch them to pants front with both edges, stretching it evenly as you Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- pocket edges. Pin and topstitch pockets two parallel rows of stitching. Use fly sew. ** cated on list of pattern pieces, placing to pants fronts and backs as marked on portion of pattern piece for pants front center-back edge of pattern piece for Pin and stitch right side of inner half of pattern. as template for stitching and make sure waistband to wrong side of pants waist. back waistband on fabric fold and adding that hem on fly edge on left pants front 1 cm seam allowances to other edges. Bottom-leg zippers: Pin and stitch Fold waistband right sides together and bottom-leg panels to pants fronts right is not caught in stitching. Stitch two bar- stitch its ends. Trim corners and turn ends Cut also 3.5 cm x 35 cm strip for belt tacks on mock fly to reinforce it, placing loops. sides together. Fold seam allowances of waistband right side out. Turn waistband toward pants fronts and topstitch seams. one at bottom of fly and the other at the right way up. Turn seam allowance on point where hem on left fly edge ends. SEWING Open zipper. Pin and stitch one zipper edge of outer half of waistband under tape to bottom-leg panel right sides to- Side seams: Stitch side seams. Fold side and stitch turned-under edge to right Construction techniques: Stitch seams gether, aligning opening end of zipper with seam allowances toward pants backs and side of pants waist. Stitch free ends of with straight stitch and finish them with bottom-leg foldline. Clip seam allowance edgestitch seams for approx. 10 cm from belt loops to top edge of waistband. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams to stitching at top corner of zipper placket waist edge as well as along edges of zipper Attach snap fastener to waistband as and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- and stitch top end of zipper to seam al- on leg bottoms. Fold up, pin and marked on pattern. ing unless otherwise instructed. Bar-tacks lowance on bottom-leg panel; start stitch- stitch hems at bottom edges of legs. are approx. 8 mm long rows of reinforcing **Tip! ing at clipped corner and stitch diagonally Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of Before stitching the waistband to the stitching sewn with narrow, short zigzag toward side seam edge. Edgestitch along stitch. belt loop strip, fold strip in three and pants you can fit it with adjustable but- edge of zipper placket from right side. stitch two parallel rows of topstitching tonhole elastic in addition to the sewn- Stabilizing: Fuse narrow strips of inter- Leg inseams, crotch seam and mock in the middle of strip. Cut strip into six in elastic. Stitch buttonholes on waistband facing to zipper placket edges on pants fly: Pin pants fronts and backs right sides equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one as marked on the pattern. Place button- backs and bottom-leg panels. Fuse inter- together and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam end of each belt loop to pants waist as hole elastic inside waistband and thread facing to outer half of waistband. See allowances toward pants backs and top- shown in design sketch, right sides togeth- its ends out through buttonholes. Sew areas shaded in grey on small-scale pattern stitch seams. Stitch hem along edge of fly er. buttons next to buttonholes, placing them pieces. extension on left pants front, starting Waistline: Measure and cut piece of on pants-front portion of waistband, and Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at from waist edge and ending at pattern 30 mm wide elastic to fit the child’s waist button elastic to waistband, leaving a little opening edges of all pockets as marked marking. Pin pants halves together and (length of elastic = half of child’s waist extra at its ends. Turn ends of buttonhole on pattern. Edgestitch along top edges of stitch crotch seam from back waist to minus 2...3 cm). Fold waistband in half elastic under and stitch them to waistband pockets. Sew row of ease-stitching along bottom of mock fly on front. Pin mock close to buttons.

26. Banana Sweet sweatshirt knit dress 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Page 59

4 3 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 90-90-100-105-110-115-120 cm yellow organic-cotton sweatshirt 7 1 front 1 knit (CO/EL), 2 back 1 stretch/recovery 30% 1 2 3 sleeve 2 - 35 cm striped cotton single jersey 6 4 hood* 2+2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 5 placket band* 2+2 - 20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 6 pocket* 2 width 90 cm 7 sleeve cuff 2 - piece of interfacing, 5 Vlieseline® H 180 - three snap fasteners, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET D orange CUTTING with decorative overedge stitch on regular pocket edges. Pin and stitch pockets to machine-baste their face edges together. Cut sleeve cuffs from ribbing, hood lining sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). front panel as marked on pattern. Finish outer edges of placket bands and and inside halves of placket bands from See general instructions for finishing edges Front placket and hood: Pin and stitch face edge of hood with continuous bind- striped single jersey, and other garment with binding on p. 48. long edges of placket bands to edges of ing. Overlap placket bands, pin them in pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to inside placket, with right side of outside placket position and machine-baste their bottom on list of pattern pieces, placing center- (striped) halves of placket bands. Fuse band against right side of front panel and edges together. Stitch triangle, formed front and center-back edges of pattern small piece of interfacing to bottom of with right side of inside placket band when clipping corners of placket, to bot- pieces on fabric fold and adding 1 cm placket on front panel. Fuse narrow strips against wrong side of front panel; note tom edges of placket bands right sides seam allowances to all other edges. *Do of interfacing to shoulder seam allowances that stitching should end at marked seam- together. Finish seam allowances at bot- not add seam allowances to front edges on back panel and to upper edges of darts line at bottom edge of placket band. Clip tom edge of placket together. of placket bands, face edges of hood panels on front and back panels. See areas shaded placket seam allowances diagonally to Joining: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom and opening edges of pockets. in grey on small-scale pattern pieces. stitching at bottom corners of placket. edges of sleeves as follows: Pin and stitch Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- Darts on front and back panels: Sew Pin outside and inside placket band wrong one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve bing for finishing opening edges of pockets rows of gathering stitches along lower sides together (with placket edge in be- right sides together. Press seam open, as well as for finishing face edge of hood edges of darts as marked on pattern and tween) and machine-baste outer edges fold cuff in half wrong sides together and and front edges of placket bands. If you gather edges to fit upper edges. Stitch of placket bands together. pin its free edge to sleeve-edge seam. use a binder attachment on your cover- darts; as you approach tip of dart, stitch Pin outer hood panels right sides together Stitch cuff in place from right side of stitch machine to attach the bindings, cut with gradually narrower seam allowance. and stitch top/center-back seam. Stitch sleeve with flatlock stitch, aligning center the binding strips in the width that fits Pockets: Finish opening edges of pockets hood lining panels together in the same line of stitching with seamline. the binder. with binding. Sew row of ease-stitching way. Pin front and back right sides together Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve along curved edges of each pocket. Make and stitch shoulder seams. Steam hood underarm seams and side seams. Fold SEWING cardboard template with pattern piece sections and shoulder seams gently. Pin underarm seam allowances to one side Construction techniques: Stitch seams for pocket. Lay pocket template on wrong and stitch outer hood to garment’s neck- at sleeve edges and stitch them flat for a with serger or with overedge stretch side of pocket. Holding template and line right sides together. Pin and stitch couple of centimeters. Fold up and press stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch pocket against ironing board, pull up bob- right side of hood lining to wrong side of bottom hem and stitch it with flatlock seams on front placket with straight stitch bin thread of ease-stitching and turn garment’s neckline. Place hood sections stitch. Attach snap fasteners to front with 1 cm seam allowance. Stitch flatlock pocket seam allowances over edge of within one another wrong sides together placket as marked on pattern. stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or template to wrong side. Press turned (with neckline seam in between) and

27. Charles L. denim pants 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 8-10

MATERIALS 5 - 65-65-70-75-80-85-90 cm PATTERN PIECES cut colored stretch denim (CO/PES/EL), 1 pants front stretch/recovery 10% 1 2 6 upper pants front 1+1 - piece of lightweight cotton fabric knee panel** 2 (CO) for pocket facings lower pants front 2 - 5 cm interfacing, 2 pants back 2 Vlieseline® H 180 3 pocket piece** 2 - 25…30 cm elastic, width 30 mm 4 4 pocket facing 2 - 35…40 cm buttonhole elastic, 5 waistband 1 width 15 mm* 6 back pocket 2 - two flat buttons, ø 15 mm* - snap fastener, ø 15 mm 3 PATTERN SHEET D black - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80

*ABOUT DESIGN SEWING Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket topstitch pockets to pants backs as The pants have 30 mm wide sewn-in Construction techniques: Stitch seams facing to edge of pocket opening on pants marked on pattern and shown in design elastic at the back waist. If you wish, you with straight stitch and finish them with front, right sides together. Understitch sketch. Stitch bar-tacks at inner top and can add separate, adjustable buttonhole serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams seam allowances to pocket facing. Turn bottom corners of back pockets. elastic to the back waist. and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- pocket facing to wrong side and topstitch Leg inseams, crotch seam and mock ing unless otherwise instructed. Bar-tacks edge of pocket opening, placing the first fly: Follow instructions for design 25 CUTTING are approx. 8 mm long rows of reinforcing row of stitching close to edge and the except interchange left and right for boy’s second 10 mm away from the first one. Cut pocket facings from lightweight cotton stitching sewn with narrow, short zigzag pants. stitch. Pin pocket piece to pocket facing right fabric and other garment pieces from sides together and stitch bottom of pock- Side seams: Stitch side seams. Fold side denim as indicated on list of pattern Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to outer et. Machine-baste edges of pockets to seam allowances toward pants back and pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern half of waistband (see area shaded in grey waist and side seam allowances. edgestitch seams from waist edge to piece for back waistband on fabric fold on small-scale pattern). bottom edge of front-hip pocket. Fold Back pockets: Stitch hems at opening and adding 1 cm seam allowances to Pants front: Pin and stitch knee panels up, pin and stitch hems at bottom edges other edges. **Take note of grainline on edges of pockets as marked on pattern. of legs. to upper and lower pants front panels Edgestitch along top edges of pockets.Turn pattern pieces for knee panel and pocket right sides together. Fold seam allowances Belt loops, Waistline, Tip: Follow in- piece. Cut also 3.5 cm x 35 cm strip for and press seam allowances on other away from knee panels and topstitch pocket edges to wrong side, and pin and structions for design 25. belt loops. seams.

28. Aviator hat 52-54-56 cm head circumference Pages 8-10

MATERIALS - 40…45 cm faux sheepskin suede - piece of interfacing, - 18 cm black elastic, width 15 mm - sew-on label (PAN/PES), width 130 cm Vlieseline® H 220 - 45…50 cm pale-colored elastic, - three snap fasteners, ø 12 mm - 20 cm faux stretch - double-sided fusible web, width 6 mm - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 (PES/PU), width 140 cm Vlieseline® Vliesofix CUTTING sides together. Pin and stitch hat halves Goggle straps: Fuse interfacing to wrong Cut front and back gores and side panels right sides together. side of goggle straps. Iron piece of double- from faux sheepskin suede, adding 1 cm Finishing bottom edge of hat: Pin and sided fusible web in the middle of each seam allowances only to their side edges. stitch binding to bottom edge of hat right , placing it between marked foldlines. Cut goggle straps and strap loop from sides together, starting and ending at Remove paper backing from fusible web, faux leather as indicated on list of pattern center-back seam and overlapping ends place end of 15 mm wide elastic at end pieces; pattern pieces for these include of binding slightly at center-back. Trim of one of the straps, turn outer edges of seam allowance. Do not cut goggles yet. seam allowances on both binding and strap to wrong side along foldlines and edge of hat to 5 mm. Wrap free edge of iron edges in place, concealing end of Cut 3 cm wide binding strip from faux elastic under edges. Topstitch around strap leather for finishing bottom edge of hat. binding over edge of hat to wrong side and pin it in place carefully. Stitch free close to edge. Attach the other end of elastic to the other strap in the same SEWING edge of binding to hat from right side, stitching close to edge of binding. Trim way. Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam allowance on binding from wrong Iron piece of double-sided fusible web in 3 with straight stitch. Stitch center-front, side. the middle of strap loop piece, placing it 2 center-back and side seams of hat first between marked foldlines. Remove paper right sides together with 1 cm seam Goggles backing from fusible web. Turn both edges 1 allowance. Then finger-press seams open Stabilizing: Cut two 12 cm x 25 cm of strap loop piece to wrong side along and topstitch them from right side with foldlines and iron edges in place. Topstitch two rows of stitching placed on each side rectangles from faux leather for goggles. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of each long edges of strap loop piece close to of seamline, 4 mm away from it. Trim seam edge. Cut three 4.5 cm pieces from strap 4 allowances on wrong side after topstitch- rectangle. Iron double-sided fusible web onto wrong side of one of the rectangles. loop piece. Turn seam allowances at ends ing. Use Teflon on your sewing of strap loops to wrong side and pin and machine. Remove paper backing from fusible web 5 and bond rectangles wrong sides together stitch loops to side panels and over cen- 6 ter-back seam of hat as marked on pat- Hat by ironing. Use ironing cloth when ironing faux leather. tern. Joining: Pin back gores right sides togeth- PATTERN PIECES cut Sewing: Make cardboard template with Thread goggle strap through loops and er and stitch center-back seam. Cut 6 stitch its ends to wrong side of outer mm wide elastic into three equal-length pattern piece for goggles. Lay template 1 front 2 on right side of bonded leather rectangle edges of goggles (check length of strap pieces and stitch pieces to wrong side of before stitching). 2 side panel 2 back gores as marked on pattern, using and stitch outlines of goggles on rectangle 3 back gore 2 zigzag stitch. Pin and stitch right side panel along edges of template. Cut out openings Finishing: Stitch label on right side panel. 4 goggles 2 to right edge of back panel right sides for eyes on template and stitch openings Attach snap fasteners to ends of side 5 goggle strap 2 together. on rectangle along edges of template. Cut panels as marked on pattern, placing two goggles out close to stitching lines with socket halves of snaps on right side panel 6 strap loop 1 Pin front gores right sides together and sharp . Cut out openings for eyes (at two lowest pattern markings) and stitch center-front seam. Stitch left side on goggles. three stud halves on left side panel. panel to left edge of front panel right PATTERN SHEET D brown

29. Fearless Eagle jersey hoodie 98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 10, 52-53

A B PATTERN PIECES cut 6 4 5 Design A B 1 front 1 1+1+1 2 back 1 1 3 sleeve 2 2 3 sleeve cuff 2 2 4 hood 2 2 3 5 front facing 2 2 6 pocket 1 - 1 2 eagle appliqué, design B PATTERN SHEET D blue MATERIALS - 55-55-60-60-60-65 cm printed, CUTTING Designs A and B: Cut 3.5 cm wide Appliqué and construction of front 40 cm striped and piece of orange Design A: Cut pocket from orange, hood binding strip from ribbing for finishing panel, design B: Trace appliqué motifs cotton single jersey (CO/EL), panels, front facings and sleeve cuffs from face edge of hood. If you use a binder on paper backing of double-sided fusible stretch/recovery 30%, design A striped and other garment pieces from attachment on your coverstitch machine web and iron pieces of fusible web onto - 40-40-45-45-50-50 cm pale-blue, printed single jersey as indicated on list to attach the binding, cut the binding strip wrong side of pieces of single jersey as 20…25 cm green and 55-55-60- of pattern pieces, placing center-front and in the width that fits the binder. follows: eyes on yellow, eyebrows and center-back edges of pattern pieces on pupils on black, and beak on beige jersey. 60-60-65 cm medium-blue cotton SEWING Cut appliqué shapes out along their out- interlock knit (CO), fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- ances to all other edges except face edges Construction techniques: Stitch seams lines. Remove paper backing of fusible stretch/recovery 20%, design B web from wrong side of shapes and iron - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) of hood panels and front edges of front with serger or with overedge stretch facings. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch beak onto lower front panel and the - piece of interfacing, other shapes onto front center panel as Design B: Cut up pattern for front into hems with serger coverstitch or with Vlieseline® H 180 twin needle on regular sewing machine. shown in design sketch. Place piece of - two snap fasteners, ø 10 mm three separate pattern pieces along tear-away backing to wrong side of each marked seamlines. Cut hood panels, See general instructions for finishing edges - label to be inserted into seam, with binding on p. 48. front panel, under appliqué shapes. Stitch design B sleeves and upper front panel from pale- shapes in place with narrow, short zigzag. blue, front center panel from green and Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to front Remove tear-away backing. Pin and stitch For appliqué, design B: other garment pieces from medium-blue facings. upper and lower front panels to center - pieces of black, yellow and interlock knit as indicated on list of pattern Pocket, design A: Fold, press and stitch panel right sides together. Steam appliqué beige single jersey pieces, placing center-front and center- hem at opening edge of pocket. Turn and area, fold seam allowances upward and - piece of double-sided fusible web, back edges of pattern pieces on fabric press seam allowances on other pocket steam panel seams gently. Machine-baste fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances edges to wrong side. Pin and stitch pocket label to side seam allowance on front Vlieseline® Vliesofix to all other edges except face edges of - piece of tear-away backing, to front panel as marked on pattern. panel, placing it 6 cm above bottom-hem hood panels and front edges of front foldline. >>> Vlieseline® Stickvlies facings. Joining: Pin front and back right sides sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seam allowances at inner edges of facings edge of hood with binding. Overlap front together and stitch shoulder seams. Fold seams and side seams. Fold underarm to wrong side and stitch edges to hood edges of hood, aligning center-front marks, up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges seam allowances to one side and stitch panels close to edge. Machine-baste front and machine-baste them in position along of sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern. them flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold and bottom edges of facings to hood bottom edge of hood. Attach snap fasten- Stitch sleeve cuffs to sleeves, fold seam up, press and stitch bottom hem. panels close to edge at the same time. ers to hood as marked on pattern. Pin allowances toward sleeves and steam Hood: Pin front facings to front corners Pin hood panels right sides together and and stitch hood to garment’s neckline seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes right of hood panels wrong sides together. Turn stitch top/center-back seam. Finish face right sides together.

30.The Lone Eagle jacket 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 8-9 PATTERN PIECES cut 17 12 back 1 3 sleeve 2 3 16 front 2 17 collar 2 18 bottom-hem piece 2 19 inner pocket piece 2 12 20 outer pocket piece 2 16 21 pocket welt 2 22 sleeve cuff 2 23 hem band 1 18 23 22 star and airplane embroidery

21 20 19 PATTERN SHEET C black and grey

as indicated on list of pattern pieces, pale-grey topstitching thread. Secure Pin hanging loop to back neckline and MATERIALS placing center-back edges of pattern pieces thread ends and remove tear-away backing machine-baste its ends to each side of - 80-85-90-95-100-100-105 cm on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam from wrong side. Embroider star motif center-back mark. Leave garment inside allowances to other edges. on left front panel in the same way. out. Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff double-face -blend fabric together to form circles. Fold cuffs in half (WV/PES) with tightly-woven Pockets: Construct pockets on front SEWING panels following instructions for design wrong sides together. Place cuffs inside outerwear fabric on right side sleeves right sides together and stitch and felted wool knit on Construction techniques: Stitch seams 16. with straight stitch and finish them with them to bottom edges of sleeves, stretch- reverse side, width 140 cm Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back ing them slightly as you sew. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching panels and stitch raglan seams. Press - 30 cm striped ribbing (CO/EL), and embroidery using pale-grey topstitch- Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides to- width 90 cm seams open and topstitch them from ing thread. right side with two rows of stitching gether and stitch their top edges together. - piece of cotton poplin for Understitch seam allowances to inner outer pocket pieces Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas placed on each side of seamline, 4 mm shaded in grey on small-scale patterns away from it. Stitch sleeve underarm collar piece close to seamline. Place collar - 20 cm interfacing, and fuse them in place (note that inter- seams and side seams. Finish raw outer pieces right sides together and stitch Vlieseline® H 410 facing is only applied to outer collar piece). edges of front facings on front panels. together their ends as well as their bot- - 7-9 snap fasteners, tom edges as far as pattern markings. Pin ø 12 mm, Prym Preparation: Stitch horizontal rows of Stitch bottom-hem pieces to each end and stitch right side of inner collar piece - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, quilt stitching on front and back panels of hem band, right sides together. Fold to wrong side of garment’s neckline. Clip and on sleeves using black topstitching bottom-hem pieces right sides together neckline seam allowances along curves. width 8 mm, for hanging loop thread. Sew the first row of stitching on and stitch their front edges. Turn entire - black and pale-grey topstitching Turn collar right side out. Turn seam each garment piece from armpit tip to hem band right side out and machine- allowance at bottom edge of outer collar thread, Epic no. 80 armpit tip (see markings on small-scale baste its open edges together. Pin and piece to wrong side, pin edge to neckline For embroidery: patterns) and the next rows above and stitch hem band to garment’s bottom- carefully and stitch in place close to edge. below this row, spacing them 6-7 cm hem edge right sides together, aligning - piece of tear-away backing, apart. Note that rows of quilt stitching front edges of bottom-hem pieces with Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to collar Vlieseline® Stickvlies are sewn for appearance only. garment’s front-edge foldlines and stretch- and bottom-hem pieces as marked on ing hem band slightly as you sew. Fold pattern. Attach snap fasteners to garment’s Embroidery: Trace airplane motif from front edges, placing them on center-front pattern sheet on tissue paper. Place piece front facings to right side of front panels CUTTING at bottom hem and stitch their bottom line. Attach top snap 3 cm below neckline of tear-away backing on wrong side of seam and the rest at regular intervals Cut pocket welts, sleeve cuffs and hem back panel, under embroidery area. Lay edges to bottom-hem seamline. Turn bottom-hem corners right side out. Ma- between top snap and snap on bottom- band from ribbing, outer pocket pieces tissue paper on right side of back panel hem piece. from cotton poplin and other garment and embroider motif through paper using chine-baste top edges of front facings to pieces from double-face wool-blend fabric neckline seam allowance.

31. Mock Denim sweatpants 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Pages 52-53

4 CUTTING 1 Cut pants panels and pocket from MATERIALS jersey as indicated on list of pattern - 55-55-60-65-70-75-75 cm denim- pieces, adding 1 cm seam allowances to look organic-cotton jersey knit all edges. Cut up pattern for bottom-leg (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% 3 2 cuff into two separate pattern pieces - 12 cm pale-grey and 30 cm dark- along marked seamline. Cut smaller parts grey ribbing (CO/EL) of bottom-leg cuffs from pale-grey ribbing - piece of interfacing, PATTERN PIECES cut and larger parts of bottom-leg cuffs as Vlieseline® H 180 well as waistband from dark-grey ribbing - piece of cotton fabric for reinforcing 1 pants panel 2 as indicated on list of pattern pieces, grommet areas 2 pocket 2 placing center-front edge of pattern piece - 50…60 cm elastic, width 25 mm 3 bottom-leg cuff 2+2 for waistband on fabric fold and adding - two grommets, ø 6 mm 4 waistband 1 1 cm seam allowances to all other edges - pale-grey topstitching thread, of garment pieces. Cut also 3.5 cm x Epic no. 80 75…90 cm strip from pale-grey ribbing - contrast-color thread for bar-tacks PATTERN SHEET E blue for drawstring. >>> SEWING bag close to seamline. Fold pocket bag Joining: Pin and stitch leg inseams right edges of waistband together. Fold waist- Construction techniques: Stitch seams to wrong side and topstitch edge of pock- sides together. Place pants legs within band in half wrong sides together. Measure with serger or with overedge stretch et opening using presser-foot edge as one another right sides together and and cut piece of elastic to fit the child stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch guide. stitch crotch seam. Leave pants inside (length of elastic = child’s waist measure- pockets with straight stitch. Stitch flatlock Fold pocket bag right sides together, stitch out. ment minus 3…4 cm) and stitch its ends stitching with flatlock stitch on serger or its bottom edges together and finish bot- Bottom-leg cuffs: Stitch pale-grey and together to form circle. Place elastic with decorative overedge stitch on regular tom-edge seam allowances together. Ma- dark-grey bottom-leg cuff pieces right within waistband, close to fold on waist- sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). chine-baste top edge of pocket bag to sides together with straight stitch. Press band, and pin it in place. Stitch along waistband approx. 3 cm from its folded Pockets: Fuse pieces of interfacing to waist seam allowance. Fold pants panel seam open and topstitch it from right right sides together along side edge of side with flatlock stitch. Stitch side edges edge with flatlock stitch to form casing edges of pocket openings on pants panels for elastic. (see area shaded in grey on small-scale pocket and pin and stitch side edge of of each bottom-leg cuff together to form pattern). Pin pocket bag and pants panel pants panel to side edge of pocket bag circles. Fold cuffs in half wrong sides to- Fold drawstring strip in three and stitch right sides together and stitch curved right sides together, stitching side edges gether. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right in the middle of strip with flatlock stitch. edges of pocket opening together, starting of pocket bag below pocket opening to- sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom Place drawstring within waistband and stitching at waist edge and ending it at gether at the same time. Finish seam al- edges of legs, stretching cuffs slightly as thread its ends out through grommets. lower corner of pocket opening, at seam- lowances at side edge of pocket together. you sew. Machine-baste bottom edges of waistband line on side edge of pocket bag. Clip dia- Fold side seam allowances toward pants Waistline: Attach grommets to waist- together. Pin and stitch waistband to pants gonally through seam allowance on pants back and topstitch seam close to seam- band as marked on pattern. Follow grom- waist edge, right sides together. Check panel to end of stitching line at lower line from waist edge to edge of pocket met manufacturer’s instructions and place length of drawstring and stitch narrow corner of pocket opening. Clip seam al- opening. Stitch bar-tacks at top and bot- piece of cotton fabric to wrong side of hems at its ends. lowances along curved edge of pocket tom corners of pocket opening using waistband under each grommet to rein- opening and understitch them to pocket contrast-color thread. force grommet area. Stitch center-back

32. Cold Stopper fleece jacket 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 14-15 CUTTING ing edges of pockets and stitch them with Finish raw center-front edges. Open zip- Cut inner collar piece from velour knit serger coverstitch or with twin needle per. Pin and stitch right zipper tape to and other garment pieces from fleece as on regular sewing machine. Pin pockets garment’s right front edge right sides to- indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing to front panels as marked on pattern gether, aligning bottom end of zipper with center-back edges of pattern pieces on (without turning their edges under) and bottom-hem edge and laying outer edge fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- stitch them in place with flatlock stitch. of zipper tape so that it covers front- ances to other edges except bottom Stitch bar-tacks at ends of pocket openings edge seam allowance. Wrap top end of edges of sleeves, edges of thumb holes using neon-color thread. zipper tape over collar edge to wrong and top edges of collar pieces. Joining: Finish edges of thumb holes with side, pin zipper tape in its final position and stitch its outer edge to garment. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- binding. Overlap edges of thumb holes slightly at bottom edges of sleeves and Stitch the other zipper tape in place in bing for finishing bottom edges of sleeves, the same way. Thread ribbon trim through edges of thumb holes and top edge of machine-baste them in position. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with binding. Pin zipper tab, fold it in half and stitch close collar. If you use a binder attachment on to tab. your coverstitch machine to attach the sleeves to front and back panels and stitch bindings, cut the binding strips in the raglan seams with straight stitch. Trim width that fits the binder. seam allowances and press raglan seams open. Topstitch raglan seams with flatlock 5 4 SEWING stitch from right side. Stitch sleeve under- 3 MATERIALS arm seams and side seams. Fold underarm Construction techniques: Stitch seams - 70-70-75-75-80-80-90-115 cm seam allowances to one side and stitch 2 with serger or with overedge stretch them flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Pin 1 turquoise fleece (PES) stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch and stitch ends of hanging loop to neckline - 10 cm grey velour knit (CO/PES) flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch on seam allowance on back panel, placing for inner collar piece serger or with decorative overedge stitch them on each side of center-back mark. - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) on regular sewing machine (e.g. honey- comb stitch). See general instructions for Collar, bottom hem and zipper: Pin - 90…120 cm fusible stay tape, bottom edge of outer collar piece to Vlieseline® Formband finishing edges with binding on p. 48. Bar- tacks are approx. 8 mm long rows of garment’s neckline right sides together - open-end zipper, length 41-43- and stitch it with straight stitch. Pin right PATTERN PIECES cut 45-48-50-52-55-57 cm reinforcing stitching sewn with narrow, short zigzag stitch. side of inner collar piece to wrong side - piece of narrow ribbon trim for of neckline and stitch it in place along 1 front 2 zipper pull Stabilizing: Fuse pieces of stay tape previous stitching line. Pin collar pieces 2 back 1 - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, along center-front seam allowances of wrong sides together and machine-baste 3 sleeve 2 width 8 mm, for hanging loop front panels (measure required length of their top and front edges together. Finish 4 collar 1+1 - neon-color thread for stitching tape on pattern piece and add seam al- top edge of collar with binding. Fold up 5 pocket 2 bar-tacks lowances). and pin bottom hem and stitch it with flatlock stitch. Pockets: Fold and pin hems along open- PATTERN SHEET E green

33. Forest Path quilted bodywarmer 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 15 CUTTING Shell and lining: Cut shell and lining pieces from outerwear fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing center- back edge of pattern piece for back on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- ances to other edges of shell pieces and 8 mm seam allowances to other edges MATERIALS zipper, width of teeth 6 mm), length of lining pieces. 42-44-47-49-51-54-56-59 cm - 125-130-130-135-140-145-165- Batting: Cut batting pieces with patterns 170 cm outerwear fabric (PES/PA) - 40…50 cm elastic cord, ø 2.5 mm for shell as indicated on list of pattern - 95-100-100-105-110-110-115- - two-hole cord lock pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern 115 cm lightweight microfiber knit - two grommets, ø 4 mm piece for back on fabric fold and adding batting (Warm-Fill) - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, 2-3 cm seam allowances to other edges. - piece of interfacing, width 8 mm, for hanging loop Note that batting pieces are trimmed to Vlieseline® H 180 - 10 cm piece of reflective tape exact size only after they have been ma- - open-end zipper (plastic-molded - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 chine-basted to shell panels. Note! Batting is only cut for one half of each pocket welt. >>> SEWING You need not use ; the im- pattern. Construction techniques: Stitch seams pression of the is enough. Joining: Pin shell fronts and shell back with straight stitch. Stitch lining with 1 cm Make sure that stitching lines are aligned right sides together and stitch shoulder seam allowance, which makes lining slightly at center-front and side seam edges and seams. Stitch reflective tape to shell back, 4 smaller than shell. No seam finish is nec- on hood panels. placing it in the middle of panel approx. essary as the garment is fully lined. Sew Pockets: Machine-baste batting pieces 6 cm above its bottom edge. Stitch shoul- 5 6 topstitching using presser-foot edge as to wrong side of pocket welts, aligning der seams of lining. Pin and stitch ends guide unless otherwise instructed. edge of batting with foldline on welt, and of hanging loop to neckline seam allow- Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas trim excess batting off. Construct pockets ance on lining back panel, placing them 3 shaded in grey on small-scale patterns on shell front panels following instructions on each side of center-back mark. Stitch and fuse them to shell pieces. for design 16. shell hood to neckline of shell right sides 2 together. Stitch lining hood to neckline 1 Preparation: Pin shell panels to batting Hood: Stitch darts on all hood panels. Attach grommets to shell hood panels of lining right sides together. Pin neckline panels and machine-baste them to batting seam allowances together, working from panels close to outer edge of seam allow- as marked on pattern. Pin shell hood pan- els right sides together and stitch top/ wrong side, and stitch them together ances with straight stitch (use longest along back neckline. stitch length). Trim excess batting from center-back seam. Stitch top/center-back PATTERN PIECES cut edges of panels. seam of lining hood. Place shell hood and Stitch armholes of shell and lining right lining hood within one another, right sides sides together. Clip armhole seam allow- Stitch horizontal rows of quilt stitching Shell and lining together, and stitch their face edges to- ances along curves. Stitch side seams as 1 front 2+2 on shell front and back panels and on gether (do not stitch center-front edges). continuous seams, starting from bottom shell hood panels using topstitching Clip face-edge seam allowances along hem of shell and ending at bottom hem 2 back 1+1 thread. Sew the first row of stitching on curves and understitch them to lining of lining. Stitch bottom-hem edges of shell 3 hood 2+2 hood panels along pattern marking and hood. Thread cord lock onto elastic cord and lining right sides together. Open 4 pocket welt 2 on front and back panels from armpit tip and slide it to the middle of cord. Thread zipper. Stitch zipper halves to center-front 5 outer pocket piece 2 to armpit tip (see markings on small-scale ends of elastic cord through grommets edges of lining, with wrong side of zipper 6 inner pocket piece 2 patterns). Stitch the next rows above and between shell hood and lining hood. Adjust facing right side of lining. Turn seam allow- below the first row, spacing them 7-8 cm Batting length of cord to have snug fit on hood ances at center-front edges of shell to 1 front 2 apart. Draw lines of quilt stitching first and stitch its ends to seam allowances at wrong side and pin and stitch edges to on pattern pieces and then mark them face edge of hood as marked on pattern. zipper placket edges of lining. Topstitch 2 back 1 on seam allowances of shell panels with Turn hood right side out. Press face edge armhole and bottom-hem edges. 3 hood 2 notches. Mark stitching lines on each shell of hood gently. Pin face edge so that elastic pocket welt 2 panel one at a time as you proceed with cord lies close to face edge. Stitch casing stitching, using ruler and tracing wheel. along face edge of hood as marked on PATTERN SHEET E orange

34. School Days plaid 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 64

5 PATTERN PIECES cut 7 6 1 shoulder yoke 1 1 4 2 front 2 3 back 1 MATERIALS 4 sleeve 2 - 105-110-115-120-125-130- 5 collar 2 2 3 140 cm lightweight plaid cotton- 6 collar stand 2 blend fabric (CO/PES) 7 pocket 2 - 20 cm interfacing, 8 sleeve cuff 2 Vlieseline® H 180 8 - 9-11 metal buttons, ø 12 mm PATTERN SHEET E black

CUTTING binding to edge of placket; place stitching Turn seam allowances on edges of front Sleeve cuffs: Turn and press seam allow- Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- 5 mm away from placket edge at bottom facings to wrong side and pin and stitch ance on attachment edge of outer (inter- cated on list of pattern pieces, placing edge of sleeve and only 2 mm away from facings to front panels. Edgestitch front faced) half of sleeve cuff to wrong side. center-back edges of pattern pieces on placket edge at top of placket, while leaving edges of front panels. Stitch narrow hem Fold cuff in half right sides together and fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam allow- even 5 mm seam allowance all along edge at garment’s bottom edge. stitch its side edges. Turn cuff right side ances to other edges. Note! Shoulder of binding. Fold binding in half, turn seam Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides to- out. Fold pleats at bottom edges of sleeves yoke and pockets are cut on the bias. Cut allowance on its free edge under and gether and stitch their ends and outer as marked on pattern and machine-baste also two 2 cm x 20 cm binding strips for stitch turned-under edge to right side of edges. Trim corners, press seams open them in position. Pin and stitch right side cuff plackets. placket close to edge. Lay placket in po- and turn collar right side out. Topstitch of inner cuff half to wrong side of sleeve sition and stitch small dart at top of edges of collar and machine-baste its edge, leaving placket binding closest to SEWING placket from wrong side. bottom edges together. Turn seam allow- underarm seam straight and turning the other placket binding to wrong side of Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at ance on bottom edge of inner collar stand opening edges of pockets. Turn and press to wrong side and stitch along edge using sleeve. Turn cuff right way out. Pin edge with straight stitch and finish them with of outer cuff half to sleeve edge and stitch serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams seam allowances on other pocket edges presser-foot edge as guide. Machine-baste to wrong side. Pin and topstitch pockets bottom edge of collar to top edge of it to sleeve close to edge. Topstitch around and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- cuff. ing unless otherwise instructed. to front panels as marked on pattern. inner collar stand, with inner collar stand and upper collar right sides together. Pin Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to front Joining: Pin and stitch front and back panels to shoulder yoke right sides to- and stitch inner and outer collar stands buttons on collar stand and sleeve cuffs facings on front panels, upper collar, outer right sides together, with collar in between. as marked on pattern. Stitch buttonholes collar stand and outer halves of sleeve gether. Fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeves to Turn collar stand right side out. Pin and on right front panel along center-front cuffs (see areas shaded in grey on small- stitch bottom edge of outer collar stand line, placing top buttonhole approx. 4 cm scale patterns). armholes, fold seam allowances toward body of garment and topstitch seams. to garment’s neckline, right sides together. below neckline seam and the rest below Cuff plackets: Slash bottom edges of Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side Pin bottom edge of inner collar stand to it at regular 7…9 cm intervals. Sew but- sleeves for cuff plackets as marked on seams. neckline carefully and stitch it in place tons on left front panel to match button- pattern. Place right side of placket binding close to edge. Topstitch around collar holes. to wrong side of slashed placket opening, Fold front facings to wrong side of front stand close to edge at the same time. spread slash open, and pin and stitch panels as marked on pattern and press. 35. Stripes & Triangles T-shirt 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 65 3

CUTTING Preparation: Cut parts of motif from Cut garment pieces from single jersey as vinyl and iron them onto right side of indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing front panel. 1 2 center-front and center-back edges of Stabilizing: Cut two pieces of clear pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seams 8 mm seam allowances to all edges except (measure required length of tape on pat- neckline. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strip tern piece for back and add seam allow- from ribbing for finishing neckline. If you ances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes use a binder attachment on your cover- to right side of shoulder seam allowances stitch machine to attach the binding, cut on back panel (on finished garment, tapes the binding strip in the width that fits the will be concealed between seam allow- MATERIALS binder. ances). Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish - 65-65-70-70-75-75-95 cm SEWING PATTERN PIECES cut striped organic-cotton single neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to 1 front 1 recovery 30% with serger or with overedge stretch one side and stitch them flat across neck- 2 back 1 - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch line binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. 3 sleeve 2 - 30 cm clear elastic tape, bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side iron-on motif serger coverstitch or with twin needle seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom Framilon®, width 5 mm on regular sewing machine. See general hem and sleeve-edge hems as marked on - pieces of grey, turquoise and instructions for finishing edges with bind- pattern. PATTERN SHEET E red striped iron-on vinyl ing on p. 48.

36. Girly Look jeans 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62, 64-65

7 8 2 10 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 3 1+1A pants front 2 - 110-115-115-120-125-130-135 cm 2 back yoke 2 stretch denim (CO/PES/EL), 6 3+3A pants back 2 width 130 cm 4 pocket piece 2 - piece of lightweight cotton fabric 5 pocket facing 2 for pocket facings 9 6 back pocket 2 - 25 cm interfacing, 7 front waistband 2+2 Vlieseline® H 180 8 back waistband 2 - metal pants zipper, length 5-6-6- 1A 3A 9 coin pocket 1 7-7-8-8 cm 4 10 fly shield 1 - two metal buttons, ø 15 mm fox - contrast-color topstitching tail thread, Epic no. 80 5 - piece of tear-away backing PATTERN SHEET F red Vlieseline® Stickvlies CUTTING embroidered. Place tissue paper with fox seam allowances on other pocket edges shown in design sketch, right sides togeth- Join pattern pieces 1+1A for pants front motif on right side of back pocket and to wrong side, and pin and topstitch er. and pattern pieces 3+3A for pants back embroider fox through paper with straight pockets to pants backs as marked on Waistline: Pin outer front and back before cutting. stitch, using topstitching thread. Secure pattern. as well as front and back thread ends and remove tear-away backing Cut pocket facings from lightweight cotton Joining: Stitch back yokes to pants backs, waistband facings right sides together and from wrong side. Embroider tail on left fold seam allowances toward pants backs stitch side seams of outer waistband and fabric and other garment pieces from back pocket in the same way. denim as indicated on list of pattern and topstitch seams. Stitch leg inseams, waistband facing. Pin outer waistband and pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern Coin pocket: Stitch hem at opening fold seam allowances toward pants backs waistband facing right sides together and piece for back waistband on fabric fold edge of coin pocket as marked on pattern. and topstitch seams. Finish raw crotch stitch their top edges together. Under- and adding 1 cm seam allowances to Turn seam allowances on side edges of edges and edges of zipper placket. Stitch stitch seam allowances to waistband fac- other edges. Cut also 3.5 cm x 72 cm pocket to wrong side and topstitch pocket crotch seam from back waist to notch ing. Pin and stitch right side of waistband strip from denim for belt loops. to right pocket piece as marked on pat- for zipper placket on pants front. Apply facing to wrong side of pants waist edge. tern. zipper to placket, following illustrated Fold waistband right sides together and SEWING Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket instructions for fly-front zipper on p. 48. stitch its ends. Trim corners and turn Topstitch crotch seam. waistband right way up. Turn seam allow- Construction techniques: Stitch seams facing to edge of pocket opening on pants front, right sides together. Understitch Side seams: Pin and stitch pants side ance on bottom edge of outer waistband with straight stitch and finish them with to wrong side and stitch edge to pants serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams seam allowances to pocket facing. Fold seams. Fold side seam allowances toward pocket facing to wrong side and topstitch pants backs and topstitch seams close to waist close to edge. Topstitch around and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- waistband at the same time. Stitch free ing unless otherwise instructed. edge of pocket opening. Pin pocket piece seamline from waist to bottom edge of to pocket facing right sides together and front-hip pocket. ends of belt loops to top edge of waist- Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to outer band. Stitch belt loops to waistband also stitch bottom of pocket. Machine-baste Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of waistbands (see areas shaded in grey on edges of pockets to waist and side seam across their midpoints. small-scale patterns). belt loop strip, fold strip in three and allowances. stitch two parallel rows of topstitching Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems Embroidery: Trace fox and tail motifs Back pockets: Fold, press and stitch in the middle of strip. Cut strip into six at bottom edges of legs as marked on from pattern sheet on tissue paper. Place hems at opening edges of back pockets equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one pattern. Stitch two buttonholes and sew piece of tear-away backing on wrong side as marked on pattern. Turn and press end of each belt loop to pants waist as two buttons on waistband as marked on of right back pocket under motif to be pattern. 37. True Friends hoodie 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 2, 62,65

MATERIALS 9 PATTERN PIECES cut 6 5 - 90-95-100-105-110-110-115 cm 4 printed organic-cotton sweatshirt 1 front 1 knit (CO/EL), stretch/ 7 2 back 1 recovery 30% 3 sleeve 2 - 45…50 cm striped organic- 3 4 hood 2+2 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 5 outer pocket piece 2 stretch/recovery 30% 2 6 inner pocket piece 2 - 50 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 1 7 pocket welt 2 width 90 cm 8 sleeve cuff 2 - 30 cm fusible stay tape, 9 hem band 2 Vlieseline® Formband - piece of interfacing, 8 PATTERN SHEET F green Vlieseline® G 785 SEWING ances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of shoul- lows: Pin and stitch one edge of cuff to Construction techniques: Stitch seams der seam allowances. bottom edge of sleeve right sides together. with serger or with overedge stretch Hood: Pin outer hood panels as well as Press seam open, fold cuff in half wrong CUTTING stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hood lining panels right sides together sides together and pin its free edge to Cut pocket welts, sleeve cuffs and hem seams on pockets with straight stitch and and stitch top/center-back seams on both sleeve-edge seam. Stitch cuff in place from bands from ribbing, hood lining panels finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. hood sections, making hood lining slightly right side of sleeve with flatlock stitch, and outer pocket pieces from single jersey Stitch flatlock stitching with flatlock stitch smaller than outer hood. Place hood aligning center line of stitching with seam- and other garment pieces from sweatshirt on serger or with decorative overedge sections within one another, wrong sides line. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces, stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. together, and machine-baste their bottom sleeve underarm seams and side seams. placing center-front and center-back edges honeycomb stitch). See general instruc- and face edges together. Finish face edge Fold underarm seam allowances to one of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding tions for finishing edges with binding on of hood with binding. Overlap front cor- side at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch 1 cm seam allowances to all edges except p. 48. ners of hood, matching center-front marks them flat for approx. 2 cm. Pin hem bands right sides together and stitch side seams. face edges of hood panels. Cut 3.5 cm Stabilizing: Fuse pieces of interfacing at bottom edge of hood, and pin and wide binding strip from ribbing for finishing stitch bottom edges together. Stitch hem band to garment’s bottom to wrong side of front panel over pattern edge in the same way as cuffs to sleeves. face edge of hood. If you use a binder lines marking pocket openings. Cut pieces Joining: Construct welt pockets on front attachment on your coverstitch machine Pin and stitch hood to garment’s neckline of stay tape for shoulder edges on back panel following instructions for design right sides together. to attach the binding, cut the binding strip panel (measure required length of tape 16. Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeve in the width that fits the binder. on pattern piece and add seam allow- cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves as fol-

38. Willy W stretch corduroy pants 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-61, 63

7 8 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 6 1 upper pants front 2 - 100-105-110-115-125-130-135 cm 1 3 1 knee panel* 2 stretch corduroy (CO/EL), 2 lower pants front 2 stretch/recovery 10% 3+3A pants back 2 - piece of lightweight cotton fabric 4 pocket piece* 2 (CO) for facings 5 5 pocket facing 2 - 5 cm interfacing, 6 back pocket 2 Vlieseline® H 180 7 waistband facing 1 - 30…36 cm elastic, width 30 mm 7 outer waistband 1 - metal pants zipper, length 9-9- 3A 8 fly shield 1 10-10-11-11-12 cm 4 - snap fastener, ø 15 mm 2 - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 PATTERN SHEET F black

CUTTING Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to outer ances toward pants back and edgestitch Pin outer waistband and waistband facing Join pattern pieces 3 + 3A before cutting. waistband (see area shaded in grey on seams from waist edge to bottom edge right sides together and stitch their top Cut pocket facings and waistband facing small-scale pattern). of front-hip pocket. Fold up, pin and stitch edges together. Understitch seam allow- from lightweight cotton fabric and other Pants front: Pin and stitch knee panels hems at bottom edges of legs. ances to waistband facing. Pin and stitch garment pieces from corduroy as indicat- to upper and lower pants front panels Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of right side of waistband facing to wrong ed on list of pattern pieces, placing center- right sides together. Fold seam allowances belt loop strip, fold strip in three and side of pants waist edge. Fold waistband back edges of pattern pieces for waist- away from knee panels and topstitch stitch two parallel rows of topstitching right sides together and stitch its ends. bands on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seams. in the middle of strip. Cut strip into six Trim corners and turn ends of waistband seam allowances to other edges. *Take equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one right side out. Turn waistband right way Front-hip pockets and back pockets: up. Turn seam allowance on free edge of note of grainline on pattern pieces for Follow instructions for design 27. end of each belt loop to pants waist as knee panel and pocket piece. Cut also shown in design sketch, right sides togeth- outer waistband under and stitch turned- 3.5 cm x 35 cm strip for belt loops. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right er. under edge to pants waist. Topstitch sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold around waistband close to edge. Sew Waistline: Measure and cut piece of SEWING seam allowances toward pants backs and another row of stitching on back waist- topstitch seams. Finish raw crotch edges. elastic to fit the child’s waist (length of band, stitching through all layers in the Construction techniques: Stitch seams Stitch crotch seam from back waist to elastic = half of child’s waist minus 2… middle of elastic and stretching elastic as with straight stitch and finish them with notch for zipper placket on pants front. 3 cm). Lay elastic over back-waist portion you sew. Stitch free ends of belt loops to serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams Apply zipper to placket, following illus- of waistband facing and pin its ends to top edge of waistband. Attach snap fas- and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- trated instructions for fly-front zipper on waistband facing at pattern markings to tener to waistband as marked on pattern. ing unless otherwise instructed. Bar-tacks p. 48. Stitch bar-tacks at bottom of fly as be matched with side seams. Machine- are approx. 8 mm long rows of reinforcing shown in design sketch. baste elastic in place along both edges, stitching sewn with narrow, short zigzag stretching it evenly as you sew. stitch. Stitch side seams. Fold side seam allow- 39. Wood Button hoodie 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 2, 61, 63

3 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 4 1 front 1 - 60 cm dark-blue and 65-70- 1 2 2 back 1 95-115-130-135-140 cm pale- 3 sleeve 2 blue organic-cotton interlock knit 4 hood 2 (CO), stretch/recovery 20% 5 sleeve cuff 2 - piece of interfacing, 5 6 6 pocket 1 Vlieseline® G 785 - two grommets, ø 6 mm PATTERN SHEET F blue - three wooden buttons, ø 18 mm stitch on regular sewing machine. Sew middle of strip with serger coverstitch button bands to edges of front placket topstitching and bottom hem with serger or with twin needle. Place drawstring right sides together and stitch with straight coverstitch or with twin needle on regular along face edge on wrong side of hood, stitch. Finish neckline and placket seam sewing machine. close to facing foldline. Thread ends of allowances together. Stitch neckline bind- Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas drawstring through grommets to right ing to back neckline seam, placing it on shaded in grey on small-scale patterns side. Stitch casing along face edge of hood hood side with its right side facing wrong CUTTING and fuse them in place. Cut 1 cm wide as marked on pattern. Pin outer edge of side of hood. Turn seam allowance on Cut hood, pocket and sleeve cuffs from strips of interfacing for stabilizing shoulder hood facing to hood and stitch it in place free edge of binding under, pin turned- dark-blue knit and other garment pieces seams. Fuse strips to wrong side of shoul- with serger coverstitch. Stitch buttonholes under edge to neckline and stitch it in from pale-blue knit as indicated on list of der seam allowances on back panel. Attach on left front edge of hood as marked on place close to edge. pattern pieces, placing center-front and grommets to hood panels as marked on pattern. Overlap button bands of hood, Fold sleeve cuffs in half wrong sides to- center-back edges of pattern pieces on pattern. Fold, press and stitch hem at aligning center-front marks, and machine- gether. Stitch cuffs to bottom edges of fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- opening edge of pocket. Turn seam allow- baste their bottom edges together. sleeves right sides together. Fold seam ances to other edges. Cut also 3.5 cm x ances on other pocket edges to wrong Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Pin and allowances toward sleeves and topstitch 80 cm strip for hood drawstring and side, and pin and stitch pocket to front stitch overlapped bottom edges of button seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch 2.5 cm x 25…30 cm binding strip for panel as marked on pattern. bands to bottom edge of placket on front sleeve underarm seams and side seams. finishing neckline from pale-blue knit. Hood: Pin hood panels right sides to- panel right sides together, starting and Fold underarm seam allowances to one gether and stitch top/center-back seam. ending stitching at seamlines on side edges side at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch SEWING Fold hood facing to wrong side as marked of button band. Clip placket seam allow- them flat for approx. 2 cm. Fold up, press Construction techniques: Stitch seams on pattern and press. Fold and press ances diagonally to stitching at bottom and stitch bottom hem. Sew buttons on with serger or with overedge stretch drawstring strip in three and stitch in the corners of placket. Pin bottom edge of front placket. Trim drawstring to right hood to garment’s neckline and edges of length and stitch narrow hems at its ends.

40. Ready to Go denim biker jacket 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60, 63

terns. Cut outer pocket pieces from PATTERN PIECES cut lightweight cotton fabric and other gar- 10 ment pieces from denim and lining fabric Denim as indicated on list of pattern pieces, 1 1 front yoke 2 placing center-back edges of pattern pieces 4 on fabric fold and adding 1 cm seam 2 front panel 2 allowances to other edges. 2 front facing 2 5 2 3 side front panel 2 SEWING 4 back yoke 1 3 6 Construction techniques: Stitch seams 5 back panel 1 with straight stitch. Topstitch seams and 6 side back panel 2 edges with two parallel rows of stitching, 7 sleeve 2 using contrast-color thread, unless oth- 8 sleeve cuff for front 2 erwise instructed. No seam finish is nec- 9 sleeve cuff for back 2 essary as the garment is fully lined. 12 10 collar 2 Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas 11 inner pocket piece 2 shaded in grey on small-scale patterns 13 11 outer pocket piece 2 and fuse them to shell pieces (note that 12 hem band 2 interfacing is only applied to outer collar 11 13 side tab 2 piece). 14 zipper for sleeve 2 Preparation: Cut pieces of fusible vol- 8 9 7 Lining fabric ume fleece and iron them onto wrong 1 front yoke 2 side of shell sleeves (trace pattern piece for fusible volume fleece from pattern 14 3 side front panel 2 4 back yoke 1 for sleeve observing markings on small- 5+6 back panel 1 scale pattern). Stitch rows of decorative stitching on sleeves as marked on pattern. 7 sleeve 2 Stitch darts on shell sleeves and lining MATERIALS Vlieseline® H 630 8 sleeve cuff for front 2 sleeves. Fold darts on shell sleeves toward - open-end zipper, length 33-36- 9 sleeve cuff for back 2 sleeve caps and topstitch them from right - 115-120-125-135-145-150-155 cm side close to seamline. batik-dyed denim (CO/EL) 38-41-43-46-48 cm - 75-80-85-90-95-105-110 cm lining - two zippers for pockets, length PATTERN SHEET F orange Shell: Open zipper. Stitch right zipper fabric (CV) 12 cm, and two zippers for tape to panel seam edge of right side- - 20 cm lightweight cotton fabric sleeve cuffs, length 15 cm front panel, right sides together, placing for outer pocket pieces - piece of grosgrain ribbon, width CUTTING top end of zipper teeth at pattern marking. 8 mm, for hanging loop Pin and stitch side front panels to front - 55…70 cm interfacing, Preshrink fabrics before cutting. Join pat- panels right sides together. Fold seam Vlieseline® H 180 - 10 snap fasteners, ø 15 mm, tern pieces 5 + 6 for lining back panel. Prym Anorak allowances toward side front panels and - piece of fusible volume fleece, Trace pattern pieces for lining sleeve cuffs topstitch seams. - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 observing markings on small-scale pat- >>> FLY-FRONT ZIPPER Designs 36, 38

The zipper application is for boys’ 2. Finish raw edges of zipper placket. pants. For girls’ pants, interchange left 3. Fold seam allowance on narrower and right in the instructions. edge of zipper placket to wrong side. Pin 1. Construct fly shield Fold fly shield and stitch fly shield under plac et edge. piece in half, right sides together, and 4. Pin other zipper tape to fly facing stitch bottom edges together. Turn from wrong side, open zipper and shield right side out and serge or stitch it in place. zigzag raw long edges together. (6. Stitch bar- using short zigzag Stitch zipper tape to fly shield 5. Topstitch fly facing to garments front. stitch at bottom of placket, catching fly Fold fly shield out of the w y as you sew. shield in stitching.)

EDGE FINISH WITH KNIT BINDING The binding can be cut either from 2. Determine the length of the binding. Stitch one edge of binding to garment’s ribbing or from the same knit as the Binding cut from the knit used for edge, rights sides together, aligning rest of the garment. The most suitable the actual garment quarter marks and stretching binding knits are those that do not curl, such (stretch/recovery 20-30%): along curved portions of garment’s as interlock knit or rib knit. edge. Use straight stitch on a regular • length of binding = 0.85 x length of sewing machine, or alternatively stitch The binding can be stitched to the the edge to be finished X cm garment using a binder attachment on on a serger. Stitching I. a serger. When using a binder, the Binding cut from ribbing Fold the other edge of binding over binding is cut in the width specified (stretch/recovery 40-50%): to wrong side of garment’s edge and by the serger instructions. The exact • length of binding = 0.70 x length of topstitch binding with twin needle cut length of the binding cannot be the edge to be finished X cm from right side close to edge. specified in advance and ou’ll find the Note! As the elasticity of different Stitching II. best technique for applying the binding knits tends to vary, the length of Neaten edge of binding on wrong side by experimenting. The edge finish will the binding should be checked by of garment by carefully trimming off be neat and look very professional. experimenting on a piece of scrap excess seam allowance. If you want to attach the binding on fabric before applying the binding to Note! When finishing the neckline a regular sewing machine, use the the garment. of a T-shirt with knit binding, stretch following method. Cut the binding in the width of 3.5 cm both the neck edge and the binding as if the finished width of the binding is you sew in order to produce an elastic 1. Measure the length of the edge to supposed to be 10-12 mm. seam. be finished (=X cm) on the pattern 3. Applying the binding: piece. Mark both binding and edge to be finished into qua ters.

OTTOBRE design® 4/2014 Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy 2014 48