The Modern Baker Confectioner and Caterer

T HE M O D E R N B A K ER

C O N F E C T I O N E R A N D C AT E R E R

E D I TE D BY

LECTU R ER AND TEACHE R OF B R EAD - MAKING NATI ONA L BAK E RY SCHOO L B O R OUGH PO LYTECHNI C IN STITUTE LONDON

W I T H C O NT R I B U T I O NS F R O M LE A D I NG S P E C I A LI S T S A ND T R A D E E X P E R TS

D I VI S I O NA L - VO L . I V

T H I R TY-FOUR SOUTHAMPTO N STR E E T STR AN D LON D O N

C O N T E N T S

I VI SI O N A L —VO L I V D .

ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

G S G G R S GUM S CHAPTER I . MOULDIN AND CA TIN FI U E IN PA TE

— - — Natural Flowers on Wedding C akes Gum P aste Ornaments TOP repare G um P aste — — — — M o ulding with G um P aste Ch aracte r of P las ticine M o d elling a C upid Casting — from a M o delled C upid reparing Double M o uld f or P each U se o f Sulphur in

M o d - m a n —M o ded Stand in R ce Wax or a —Ma n a ned - ul ki g ul i , , Sug r ki g Gr i Sugar

n —Ho o a ne - an Ornam e ts ll w G r i d Sugar or Wax St ds.

P G CHAPTE R I I . LACE PI IN AND CHOCOLATE MEDALLION S — — Mo d ell ed P laques and Festoons f or Cakes L ace o r Net P iping Dupli cating Designs — — — Cho colate M ed allions f or C akes So ft Ch ocolate Centres on Cakes Chocolate Do ugh — — — — To Keep M ed alli ons P repa ring the P aste Quantity of Sugar to U se H o wto Fill — — — the M o ulds U se o f I ce f o r Co oling A no th e r M eth o d of Mo ulding Third Meth od — — — o f M oulding R ecipe f or M ed alli on Varnish A noth er Varnish R ecipe Ch ocolate

E aste E s— a ned - a E te r gg Gr i Sug r as r E ggs .

P R G R RT P CHA TE II I . FI U E AND A PI IN G

F u e P n N w — — - ig r ipi g a e Art Originality of Design Wh ere to Seek Mod els P reparing — — I cing f or Figure Wo rk Signs o f R ead iness of I cing Best M ateri als to P ipe on ’ — — — Subjects from F anci e rs Jo urn als Bird s a Simple Subject Stags Easy Ho rses — — — ’ Di fﬁc ult Gro uping sh o uld be Original Flying Bird s P iping Lions M anes C o i n T ac n — — — py g by r i g P iping on Glass Gro uping A nimals Co untry and Spo rt — — — Jo urn als to C opy from Mixin g Co lo urs L andscape P iping Different F eatures f T e — — — — o re s To P ipe the Oak Autumn Ti nts P oplar Trees U se of Trees in P er s ecti ve—The eec T ee p B h r .

P R CHA TE I V. BOILING SUGAR — — Uses o f Bo il ed Suga r Sugar Th ermom eter Degrees of Boil ed Sugar Use of P er — — f orated Spo on or Wire f o r Testing The Blo w Degree The Fea th er Degree

P eca t ons a a nst n s— The a a e e — w r u i g i Bur H rd B ll D gr e H o to Hold the Fingers to — — Dip into Sugar The So ft Crack Degree The Ha rd Crac k Degree—Testing Suga r — — with the Teeth The Caramel Degree S ugar P roperly Bo iled sh o uld Keep Dry

Use o f Ac and G cose to P e ent G a n n — se o f id lu r v r i i g U Cream of Tartar. vi CONTENTS

P R M G CHA TER V . CA A EL NOU AT — — — C aramel Nougat To P repa re No ugat No ugat ala P a risienne Mo ulding No ugat — — Ano t e Met o of F n Mo s Un o m t of Co o No at Monte ma h r h d illi g uld if r i y l ur ug li r .

P I SP -SUG R C R CHA TER V . UN A DE O ATION — Old Met od o f S nn n S a He t to o S nn n S a - H ow h pi i g ug r igh B il pi i g ug r to Spin Sugar — o n a Uses f Spu S ug r .

I -S G R R CHAPTE R V I . PULLED U A WO K — E ff ect of P ulli ng Sugar P reparatio n of P ull ed Sugar- P repari ng the Sla b - Making f or o n -H o w — — Sto c S to P S a E ff ec ts o f O e o n H ow k yrup B ili g ull ug r v rw rki g Sh een —E ff t — — is prod uced ec s o f Overh eating when Mo ulding Colo uri ng the Sugar Use of

— - — P o wdered Aniline C olo urs K ee ping P ulled Suga r G ood s Building up Sugar R oses — — Nat a F o e s as Mo e s P e a n and F n Stems Mo d n L ea es ur l l w r d l r p ri g ixi g ul i g v .

- CHAPTER VI I I . PULLE D SUGAR AR TICLES AND BUILT MER INGUES

— - — Building of Sugar Baskets I nstructions f or Baske t making Finishing the Baskets

— - — — Bas ket with Lid P artly Open F o ur h andled Bas ke t Fancy Flowe r P o t S ugar — w — — S e H o to K ee toc M e n e w lipp r p S k ri gu s H o to P repare Shapes Building B ee i es—M e n e o h v ri gu B xes.

SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

RR S CES R CHAP TE R I X. MA ON GLA AND CA AMEL FR UITS — — M arrons Glacés Density o f Syrup f or P rese rving Density of Syrup f or Storing — — U se o f Gluco se in P rese rving Finishing Marrons GIacés Caram el Oranges — — — P yramid of Oranges Croquenbo uche o f F ruit Ca ramel Walnu ts Ca ramel P re — — — — served F ruits C a ramel P runes C a ramel Strawbe rri es Caramel Grapes Wires — — ~— f or Dipping Fruits F inishing Dipped F ruits Disguised Chestnuts Caramel

Che rri es.

R MS R S Z E P R . S R S TC . CHA TE X FONDANT , C EA , C Y TALLI ED F UIT ,

—‘ - — Utensils f or Making F o ndants P roﬁtable Sweet making Maki ng of Fondants — — — Syrup f or C rystallizing Crystallizing F ondants Fla vo uring of F ond ants Crystal — — — — li xing P runes M arzipan Sh apes Small Cockles C entres f or Cho cola tes The — — Co v ering Ch o colate Co ating C entres wi th C ho colate P repa ra tion o f F ondant — — — Centres P repa rati on o f the Ch oc o la te Danger o f Ov erh eating No ugat Creams — — — — — Hard No ugat C entres P ralinée Centres F ruit Centres Liqueur Centres P re

paration o f Soft Centres f or Co veri ng.

S CHAPTER XI . JELLIE

’ ’ — - — Calves -F oot Jelly P reparation o f C alves Foot Jelly R ecipe f or Swee t Jelly — — St raini ng thro ugh a Jelly -bag U se of I singlass or Gelatine R ecipe f or S toc k — — — Jelly from Gela tine M eth od o f C larifyi ng Macédoine Jellies Meth od o f Filli ng — — — - — M o ulds P rintaniers o r Spring Jellies P ineapple Jellies G old Leaf Jellies Marbled — — — — Jellies Whipped Jelly Neige or Snow Jelly A utumn Jelli es Tricolour or R ubani — — — — Jellies Valen tine Jellies Champagne Jelli es Harlequin Jellies M eth od o f Filling — — — — the Mi xed Jellies P unch Jellies Noya u J ellies Ma ras chino Jellies Orange Jellies — — — To P re pare Oranges f or Jelli es C ro utes of P each es O th er Kinds of Mo ulded e es—A c — ns nc J lli spi Jelly To Test Co iste y.

R XI R R S S or R CHAPTE I . CHA T EU E F UITS — — — Ch art re uses o f F ruits Jelly f o r Whipped Cream Ch artreuse of B ananas P repa ring — — Whipped Crea m Spec i al P reca utions with Tinned Fruits Lis t of Frui t Ch artreuses. CONTENTS vii

CHAR LOTTES AND D R MS CHAPTER XI I I . MOULDE C EA

— — n a e— a otte Ecossa se R ussian Ch arlo tte Veneti an Charlo tte Charlo tt e Co lo i l Ch rl i — — f or F a o n —C o e Ch arlotte N o rmande Ch arlo tte Mignons Fruit Juic es l v uri g h pp d — — weams are S o i ed — an a C eam Jelly f or Deco ratio n M o uld ed Creams H o Cr p l V ill r — — — m—S c an C eam C o co ate Brown -bread Crea m I talian C ream P istachi o C rea i ili r h l — — - ta d f or eam Cream—Co ff ee C ream Millef ruit Cream Ba varo ise Creams Cus r Cr

n Mixi g.

V MP OF R S PP R S S CHAP TER XI . CO OTE F UIT AND U E DI HE — — F ru it Dishes —Supreme Of P ineappl e Supreme of Ch erri es To C ook F resh Ch erries

— ’ — — e of P nea e —F o m n s o f C outes R iz a l I mpératric e Blancmange Crout s i ppl r i g Di h r — — — —Cro utes o f P each es Croutes of Tangeri nes Croutes of M ad eira Sava rin and — — — Cherries Sa varins wi th Cream Sa vari n and Apri co ts Sa varin and P each es ’ — — — Swallow s Nest Small Nests o f Marron M ont B lane Chantilly Man on and — — -w ream a es M eringue Venetian P udding Neapoli tan C ream C G ufr .

E R M S CHAPTER XV . NT E ET — — — Vanilla Souffle Vanilla Soufllé P udding Vanilla Souffle Fritters Ch ocolate Soufllé — — — — e tte — e O h Co ffee So uffle R i ce Souffle Sau ce with So ufflés Appl F ri rs Us f t e — — — — Salamand P eac h Sicilian P ears Sic ilian F illing f o r P eac h es Apple Ch arlo ttes — a otte Bread F ingers f or Lining Sh ort P aste Lining f or Ch rl s.

I C E S

X I THE R P R OF I C S CHAPTER V . P E A ATION E — — — G o od Material s Necess ary Utensils Need ed Best M achines Mo ulds f or I ces — — — P ropo rtio ns o f I ce and Sal t Breaking the I ce Statio nary M ac hines U se of the — — — Spat ula U se of th e Sac ch arometer M e th od o f Stacking F reeze r f or Transpo rt I ce — — — Caves F resh F ruits best f o r I ces Cream and Water I ces Vanilla Crea m I ce — — Vanilla Seeds i n I ces Vanilla Custard I ce Why C usta rd m ust no t be muc h Boiled — — — Ch eap Vanilla C ustard Use o f G elatine and Co rn Flo ur C o ffee Cream I ce — — — S tra wbe rry Cream I ce Cheap Strawbe rry I ce R aspberry Cream I ce Banana Cream — — — I ce Serving in Banana Skins Mo uldi ng Banana I ces P ineapple C ream I ce — — P repa ring P ineappl e f or I ces Glac e a la Creme P ralinée Cho col ate C ream I ce — — Apricot Cream I ce - P eac h Cream I ce Orange Cream I ce P istachio C rea m I ce

— — - — Walnut Crea m I ce Gi nger Crea m I ce Brown bread Cream I ce P lai n Biscuit I ce — — — — - G reen tea I ce Ness elrode I ce P udding P ear Cream I ce Che rry Cream I ce

- — H azel nut C ream I ce Caramel Cream I ce .

E S T I OUFPL S S S E . P R I . S C CHA TE XV , MOU E , — — — Souﬁlés Cream and E gg So ufHéS S ouﬂlé o f Y olks Mo uld ed Mo usses - P arfait

So uﬂi és .

P R I I I R I C S S R B S CHA TE XV . WATE E AND O ET — — — Whipped Whi tes in Water I ce s Lemon Water I ce Orange Water I ce Tange ri ne — — — — Wate r I ce P ineapple Wate r I ce P each Water I c e Apri cot Water I ce M elon

— — - — Water I ce Stra wbe rry Water I ce R aspberry and R ed Currant I ce Cherry Wate r — — — — — I ce So rbet L emon So rbet P ineapple So rbet So rbet au Champagne Orange

So et—G a e So et -Millef ruit o et— an te o e t rb r p rb S rb Gr i S rb .

R X CHAPTE XI . MOULDED I CES AND PUDDINGS — — — P reparing M o ulds f or I ces Neapolitan I ces Order o f Layers in M o uld Bomb — — — — Dah omey I ce Melon I ce Pudding Bra zilian I ce P i neapple I ce I talian I ce — — — Glac é ls Mogad o r Glac é C omt esse Marie Glac e Cronstad t Apri co t P lo mbiere - — — — Tutti F rutti Glace Bisc ui t I mpe ri al Glace Dutch Bisc uits Forced Tangerines ma eac I ce — n a S ll P h s P u ch a la R om ine . v iii CONTENTS

MENU DI SHES

’ RS D (E UVRES CHAP TER XX . HO — ’ — — R esta urant and Outdoor Catering H ors d GZuvres Hui tres au Naturel L ax sur

— a an a —Smo ed Sa mo n— o o ne Sa sa e— ou e C routes C anapé a l Z zib r k l B l g u g Cr t s A, la — — R osamonde Huitres au Ca viar Croutes ala Burlington C ro utes aux Olives F arci es — — “ — —Tartines d e Cavi ar C a vi ar sur C roﬁtes Croutes a la M ari e Li ttle Salad of — es P rawns R uss ian Salad in Cas .

R P R OF S PS CHAPTE R XXI . P E A ATION OU — — — Clear or Gra vy So up Conso mmé a la Julienne C onsommé a la Jardinl ere Con — — sommé a la B runoise C onso mmé a la P rintam ere Co nsommé a la Chiﬁonade ' — C ons ommé a la D Esclignac - Co nso mmé a la R oyale Cons ommé a ux P roﬁteroles — — — C o nso mmé aux Quenell es Clea r Ve rmi celli Soup Clear Macaro ni So up Consommé — — — a la Leli e C onsommé P o mpado ur C o nsommé ala P rincesse C o nsommé a la P al es — — — tine Consommé a la Valetta C onso mme a la Nive rnaise C onsommé Da uphine — — — — - Clear C x tail So up Clear M oc k Turtle So up Clear Turtle So up Clear G ame So up

— — — - — Thick T o mato So up Thi ck M o c k Turtle S o up Thi ck C x tail So up Thick Gro use

— — — — - So up - Thick P artridge So up P h easant So up R abbit So up Hare So up C x ch eek — — — — So up P rince of Wales So up Queen So up P o tage a la Bo nne F emme Thick — — m A sparagus S o up Sc o tch Bro th A erica n Soup .

R G B S PS CHAPTE XXII . VE ETA LE OU — — — — — Ch estnut So up C arro t So up Barley So up Spinach So up Arti ch oke So up Turnip — — — - So up Green P ea So up P o tato So up Dutch So up .

S PS CHAP TER XXI I I . FI SH OU — — — — — L obster Soup Crayﬁsh S oup Oyster So up Mussel Soup Shrimp So up P rawn

So up .

S S CHAP TER XXIV. AUCE — — White R o ux Thi ckening f or Sauces Bro wn R o ux Thickening f o r Sau ces Bro wn — — — — — Sauce White Sa uce I talian Sauce White I talian Sau ce S h arp Sa uce Tomato — — — — ’ Sa u ce G ene vese Sauce Matelo te Sauce Lo bster Sauce M ai tre d H Otel Sauc e

ﬁ — — Curry Sauce May onnaise S a uce Green Mayonnaise S a uce R ed M ayo nnaise Sa uce

— — - T artar Sauce R émo ulad e Sauce (Co ld ) R émo ulad e Sau ce (H ot) P ro vencal Sauce

—Sa ce f o r C o d M eat a n c — a e a ce — o n a e Sa ce - ac tte u l , Br w , & . C p r S u Br w C p r u Bl k Bu r — — — — — Sa uce E gg Sau ce Mustard Sa uce Bread S auce F ennel Sa uce Shrimp Sa u ce — — — — R avigo te Sa uce G reen R a vigote Sa uc e Sa uce R obert P arsley Sauce A nch ovy — — — Sauce H o rserad ish Sauce M o usse line Sa uce (H o t ) M o uss eline Sau ce (C old) — — — — Gh erkin Sauce Dutch Sa u ce Mussel Sauce G erman Sau ce S au c e Béarnaise — — — Sauce Supreme Mint Sauce White Chaudfro id Sa u ce Bro wn Ch audfroid Sa u ce ' — — — — D U x elles Sauce Cumbe rland Sa u ce Madeira Sau ce F inanc iere Sauce De vil — — — — Sa u ce No rwegian Sa uce Bo rdea ux Sauce Sauce f or Venison Sa uce f or R oas t — — — ﬁ Veal White Onio n P urée Bro wn Onion Sa uce F ine Herb Sauce B échamel Sauce — — ’ — — Mayonnaise Dressing f o r S alad Maitre d H Otel Butter Fish Glaze M ushroom

— - — — S au ce P o rt wine S auce P lain White Sa uce o r Butter S auce Whi te Onio n Sa uce — O ste Sa ce — C e a ce — ea o tan c e y r u h rry S u N p li Sa u .

P R CHA TE XXV. COOKING AND SER VIN G FI S H — — — L o bs ter Coral F ish Cream or F ish F arce F ried F illets of Sole Soles in White — — ’ — Wine S urprise F illets o f So le F ile ts d e Sole al Orly Filets de S ole ala No rmand e — — F ilets d e Sole a la R ich elieu Filets d e Sole en Belle-v ue Mayonnaise of Fill ets of — — — — Sol es Soles au Gratin Sole a la Co lbe rt Boiled Salm on F ille ts o f Sal mon — — — Mayonna ise o f Salmon Grilled Slice of Salmon F ried Slices of Salmon R ed — — — Mullet Grey Broiled Mulle t R o ugets aux Fines H erbes R o uge ts a la Mai tre CONTENTS

’ — — — — d HOtel Bo il ed Turbo t F illets of Turbo t Broiled Turbo t Turbot au Gratin

’ — - Turbo t au Gratin a l I talienn e Turbot a la R usse and Turbo t a la M o rny Turbo t a — ’ — — ’ la Creme Gratin F illets o f Turbo t al I mpératrice F ish R issoles Smelts al AngIaise — — — — S melts C urled and F ried S melts f or I nvalids Whiting F illets o f Whiting — ’ — F ilets d e Merlans a la R égence Filets d e M erlans a l Américaine F ilets de M erlans ’ — — — a l Ambass ad rice Cream Of Whiting Cream o f Whiting in As pic Jelly Whiting — — — — P oll<>ck Tro ut F ill ets o f Tro ut Sli ces o f Tro ut Méd aillons de Truites en Caisses — — —Bo iled Haddo ck Fillets of Hadd oc k with Tartar Sa uce Fil ets d e Merlu ch e a

’ — — — — - l I ndienne Halibut Whitebai t Devilled Whitebait Sturgeon Gri lled St urgeon — — — — — — — S t uffed P ike Tunny F ish Wee vers C arp F o rced C arp F ri ed C arp Stewed — — — — C arp F ri ed Dabs Cod with Dutch Sauce Sli ces of C od F ried Tranch es d e ’ — — — — Cabilla ud a l E spagnole Grill ed C od Grilled Cod a la C olbe rt E els S pitchcoc ked — — — — ’ — E els E els a la Geo rgina Flo unders F ried Flo unde rs Flo und ers a l Orly Hake ’ - Ha e — eon— na en Mate o te—F ets o f na a l I talienne Baked k G udg G ur rd l ill Gur rd .

S S CHAPTER XXVI . HELL FI H — — — — — C rab Crayﬁsh S callo ps in Sh ells Oyste r P atti es Oyster Vol au Vent Oysters a — — la Béch amel (Co ld) -Croquettes of Oysters Krom eskies o f Oysters Oysters a la ’ — ’ — ’ d U x elIes - Scalloped Oysters Huitres a l Américaine H om ard a l Américaine — — — L o bs ter C utlets L obs ter P atties L o bster Mayonna ise Lobste r M ayonnaise in — — — C as es - L obs ter R issol es S calloped L obster Curried L o bster P o tted L o bster — — Quenelles o f L obs ter Muss els Scalloped M ussels .

R S E R E S CHAPTE XXVI I . FI H NT E — — — R i ce Bord ers f or E n trees Oys ter F ri tters Oyster Fri tters a la Villeroi Oysters on — ’ — — Ske wers Croutes d H uitres a la C alaisienne Oyste r P udding De vi lled Oyste rs — — — S ard ine F ri tte rs Scallo ped or Buttered L obster Chartre use o f F illets of Sole — ' — C répinettes a la C ardinal F ilets d e Soles a la Venetienne (Co ld ) M o usseline de — — Saumon a la M o ntmo rency (Cold) Bread P anad a Mo usse o f L obster in As pic F ets o f o e in na e s ill S l Chi Sh ll .

' P R I I S B R R E TR E CHA TE XXVI . WEET EAD AND OTHE N ES

— — ’ — Sweetbread s M edallions o f Sweetbreads Sweetbreads a la d U x elles S weetbreads

’ - — — — a la Villeroi Sweetbreads a l Orly Sweetbreads i n C ases Fried Sweetbread s — o — S weetbreads a la To ulouse Sweetbreads a la St . Cl ud R is d e Veau a la M elita

a wA s c e — i d e ea l — F illets o f Sweetbre d ith pi J lly R s V u a a M ari e L o uise R is de Veau ’ — — — a l I mpériale Sweetbrea d with P istachio N ut Epigramm e d e R is d e Veau R is ’ — ’ — d A gneau a la Milanaise Lambs Sweetbreads and Spinach P etites Cai ss es d e ’ — — R is d Agneau au G ratin E scalo pes d e R is d e Vea u ala Dauphine E scalopes d e R is ’ — — — ’ de Vea u a l A rchid uchesse C x K idney Sauté Tripe a la Francaise C alves Brains ’ ’ a la S ez a —M n ced ea — ea C o ettes—Ca es F eet F tte - p i i V l V l r qu lv ri rs Calves F eet, — n n e a la na s To ulo use Gre adi s d Veau Niver i e .

R S R E R E S CHAPTE R XXI X . FOIE G A AND OTHE NT E — P etites C aisses d e F o ie Gras aux Truﬁes Foie Gras C utlets wi th P érigue ux Sau ce — — — — R ussian Kromeski es F rench K ro meskies F oie Gras So ufﬂéS P arfait de Foie — — — Gras M o usse of F oie Gras S wee tbread in Timbale Timbale a la Milanaise e eta e a t e se—C a t e se en em e V g bl Ch r r u h r r u D i Du l .

E F R M E R S O ETC . P R . CHA TE XXX NT E POULT Y, GA E, — Z éphyrs d e C aneton a la Bell e Ile Miro to n de Dindonneau a la Chatelaine — — Grenad ins d e L ape rea u a la M aintenon Small Galantine of Chicken Fillets o f — — — Chi cken in A spi c C urried Fo wl R ice f or C urry Filets d e Volailles ala Bo ulangers — e c en Ma en o —F ets o f C c en S eme— e S t wed Chi k , r g ill hi k , upr F ill ts of F o wl a la

B i arure—F ets o f C c en R é ence—F ets of C c en c esse—F g ill hi k , g ill hi k , Du h ricass ee of F o — an ette Of F o and M s ooms— ene es o f C c en F an a se wl Bl qu wl u hr Qu ll hi k , r c i x CONTENTS — — C c en ene es L c s C c en ead cto a C c en Z e C eam hi k Qu ll , u ullu hi k Br , Vi ri hi k phyr, r — a c — s an T m a e — c to a Sa sa es C c en F tte s — C c en P an S u e P ari i i b l Vi ri u g hi k ri r hi k ad a, — — — P rincess P e tites Timbales a la R oyale Small Chi cken Soufilés C ompo te d e — — P igeons a la F inanciere P igeon C o mpo te a nd P eas Co mpote d e P igeons a la — Z n a a —P eon Med a li ons and s a a s P e on C t e ts P eon C t ets i g r ig l A p r gu ig u l ig u l , — ur i notte —P eon C t ets P om ad o P eo n C t ets L c s —P eo n B o gu g ig u l , p ur ig u l , u ullu ig — e a enne—P eon T a n F l ets of G nea F o —F ets o f G o se a la F ill ts, V r ig urb il ui wl ill r u — — — Bohémi enne L ark P udding M auviettes a la Comtesse R o setti C répinettes a la — a in ma C ases — L a s M o nt olfier — — Chass e ur L rks S ll rk , g Lark Turban F ilets d e — ~ M auvi ettes en C aisses a ux F ines H erbes F ilets d e M auvi ettes en H atelettes ' — a s S enne - Stufied a s in C as se o e a s F a ced ala F nanc e e— a Qu il , yri Qu il r l Qu il r i i r Qu il — — Salmis and Stuffed Tomatoes F am ed Quails in C old Conso mmé Co mpo te o f Qu ails and Fa ced O es— an of a s — a C t ets Pe o — a C t e ts Villeroi r liv Turb Qu il Qu il u l , rig rd Qu il u l , a C t ets F nanc e e—F a c e a s R o t sc d —F ets of Ha e ea olitan Qu il u l , i i r r d Qu il , h hil ill r , N p

— - f Ha e t. H e t Ha e C t ets R e o m T an f Ha n oo ms F ill ets o r , S ub r r u l , f r urb o re a d Mushr — ’ — — P etits P ai ns d e Lievre al E ssence Small Cas es o f G ame Salmis o f P artridge and — — f es C a t e se of P a t d e and Ca a e F ll ets o f W c a ade . Truf l h r r u r ri g bb g i ild Du k, Big r

E R E S CHAPTE R XXXI . MEAT NT E — — — Smo ked Tongue Ox P alates C x P alates with Stuff ed Tomatoes Noise ttes o f

Lam i t s a a s P o nts—M tton C t ets c to a—M tton C t ets e and a b w h A p r gu i u u l , Vi ri u u l , Al x r — tton C t ets Che v reuille — M tto n C t ets P om ad o — M tton t ets Mu u l , u u l , p ur u Cu l ,

tes —M tton C t e ts E en e —C t ets of L am M a ntenon— enad ns d e D escar u u l , ug i u l b, i Gr i

a a d n e e— ea K e ne s—Tend ons o f ea — ee O e L c s Vea u a l J r i i r V l r l V l B f liv s, u ullu

o f ee ea o tan—F i ets of ee St as —Stea ala o d e a se —Stea Fillets B f, N p li ll B f, r burg k B r l i k ’ — — — a la Maitre d H Otel S teak a la Béa rnaise Steak a la Chateaubria nd Steak and

O ste —To ne os o f ee —S ca o o f ee t T n —Sca o of ee m e ca n y r ur d B f ll p B f wi h ur ip ll p B f, A ri — e —F et o f ee dne —F ets of ee e e — enna o e t . am s s S S S call op f Be f, S J ill B f, y y ill B f, vill Vi

— e o —F ets of ee G at n — t et Of ee R ome Steaks Fille ts of Be f (C ld) ill B f, r i Cu l B f,

— e o f ee O ent—F ets d e P o c a la C a a d ne —F o e G as Minced Bee f Fill ts B f, ri il r r p u i i r — ’ Sevign e COtelettes d A gneau a la Menth e .

M ET I I . R S C . CHAPTER XXX POULT Y, MEAT, AND GA E PIE , — — — — — P igeon Pi e Veal and H am P ie R ump Stea k P ie Steak and Oyster P ie Chi cken — ’ — — — — and H am P ie Sh eph erd s P ie P artridge P ie Veniso n P ie Hare P ie R a bbit — — — Pi e—Steak and Kid ney P ie Jugged Hare Hari co t Mutton Kidneys wi th Baco n — — — —Ste wed P igeo ns R aised P heasant P ie P as te f or R aised P ies R aised P ies with — — — — H o t -wate r P aste G ala ntine o f Vea l G alantine o f Chicken P ressed Bee f P ickle

e f or Brisket o f Be f.

I S CHAPTER XXXI I . JOINT

— n— a F e t o f ee —R oast F et o f ee R oas t Sirloin of Beef Braised Sirloi R o st ill B f ill B f,

— — a sed F et o f ee M anese—F et of ee R efo rm Braised F ill et o f Bee f Br i ill B f, il ill B f, — — n — a se F et of ee R om an a se F et of ee me can a sed Lo rrai e Br i d ill B f, Br i d ill B f, A ri Br i — P a est ne— a sed F e t o f ee Se vano a sed F et of ee F illet of Beef, l i Br i ill B f, Br i ill B f,

— e o f ee L n — o e ee — R o n of ee —R oast Delmoni co Braised F ill t B f, ig y B il d B f u d B f — — M tton—St e L e o f L eg o f M utto n Boiled Leg of Mutton Braised L eg of u uff d g — — -b Mutton R o as t Sho ulde r of M utto n St uﬁed Sho ulder of Mu tto n R olled Sh oulde r

— d e o f tto n— a se Sadd e of M tton G and of M utton with Oyste rs R oas t Sad l Mu Br i d l u , r — — Duk e Braised Saddle of Mutto n wi th Cele ry Bo iled Neck of Mutton R oast Nec k

o f M tton u . L I S T O F PL A T E S

— D I VI S I O N A L VO L . I V

“ RAISED A SPOR TING SCENE PI PED WITH SUGAR

' ' (Coloured) 1f 7 outispiece

SPECI ME NS OF GUM-PASTE OR NAMENTATION

MODELLING IN PLASTI CINE

PIP ED DES I GNS FOR CAKE SIDES

ANIMA L OUTLINES FOR PIP ING

SP ECIMENS OF MODELLIN G IN SUGAR

PULLED SUGAR AND NOUGAT CENTR E PIECES (Coloured)

BUILT ME R IN GUES

A THR EE-TIE R WEDDING CAKE

COLD ENTR EMETS (Coloured)

FOUR PR ES IDENTS

SAM E WI LLI AM A RUNDEL. B . L I CES TE R.

ENR AYLOR. H Y S MITH , J . P . R I CHARD T

MOULDED I CES (Coloured)

SPECIMEN S OF CAKE DECO R ATION

MOULDED MARZ IPAN FR UITS (Coloured)

FOUR NOTAB LE BAKERS W . P A L M ER H . MER E PH . JOS RITT.

. T. E LL. W H URTI B B . . C S .

T H E M OD ER N BAK ER

C O N F E C T I O N E R A N D C A T E R E R

CHAPTER I

MOULDI NG AND CA STI NG FI GUR E S I N GUM PASTE

I n n th e n on e n e n and e additio to pipi g w ddi g cak s, atural artiﬁcial ﬂow rs

I t the e in e - e and l eaves a re used . is usual practic som high class stablish en e e e e n e m ts to d corat all larg cak s with atural ﬂow rs , N a t ur a l F lo w e rs o n W e d d n c a ke ~ and as much as thirty S hilli ngs for this purpose is i g s

- n e n t n ne Th allowed for a three ti er w eddi g cak costi g about e gui as . e e are ene e in e n and o e e flow rs g rally mad up f stoo s, sprays , h rs sho s, with e the and e the be e in a wr ath for bottom , a bouqu t for top to plac d a O n e e e n e and se . e va ra g blossoms , whit ros s , various ki ds of lili s, oth r e e e e e are e the e e whit flow rs , mix d with small l av s , us d for abov purpos s ; n n th ey a re fastened o with white pi s . e the e n o f - e n en e and e es Form rly pr paratio gum past or am ts , flow rs , l av ’ n n th n n n h form ed an importa t bra ch of e co fectio er s work . Ma y of t e e in use e old er business hou s s had a larg stock of moulds G um - p a s t e m am e m 0 ° Gum - n n s and oth er utensils for this work . paste or ame ts e e e e n e n and e e but e e w r also much us d for d corati g w ddi g oth r cak s , th s n ween e e e n en e n e o in hav b sup rs d d by various or am ts mad with chi a , the s e and e n n t et hap of Cupids vas s for holdi g atural or ar ificial bouqu s . There does not appear to be any indication of gum paste again becomi ng Th e n e t n e e n popular . e d ma d is mor ha v r for those d ecoratio s which ar e e and e e quickly pr par d at mod rate prices . There is even greater obj ection to gum - paste ornam en ts than to d ecora n i n n o n the n n S n tio s royal ici g grou d of hard ess . For how cak es a d e e e e has e and en dummi s , how v r, gum past still its us s , it l ds T o p re p a re G um P a s “ itself esp ecially to the preparation of Show pieces for the shop n o e e no e e n e e e the e n wi d w . Th r is quit d fi it r cip for pr paratio of gum paste. I ts ene n e e e o f n g ral compositio , how v r, is always a mixtur gum tragaca th , n n w The n a d fi e e . e in e ici g sugar, starch po d r gum is soak d cold wat r n e e e and e n en e e n e to u til it b com s quit soft solubl , o ly ough wat r b i g us d e n e - e n n As e e n mak it of a thi j lly lik co siste cy . th r is i variably a quantity e n e n the ma be ne e h of for ig matt r amo gst gum , it y c ssary to pass it throug V L. O II . 1 6 1 2 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

e e n e e n . I t en e n e a pi c of musli b for mixi g is th mad i to a smooth , pliabl 4 1 e . e 4 . ne dough , with a mixtur of about oz of starch powd r to oz of ﬁ st I n th e n e l e S n . e be ici g sugar cours of mixi g , a littl liquid b u hould add ed h he e e te en e As n to t e gum to mak e t past look v ry whi wh it dri s . a oth er e n to en e ten e e be en the On pr cautio sur whi ss , car must tak that slab ’ he e m e and the e n are n which t past is ix d mix r s ha ds scrupulously cl ea . When the dough is mad e it should be kept in n e n o n the a jar with a lid , or u d r a basi slab , a nd only the quantity being manipulated Should be e e to th e so e e e xpos d air, as it r adily b com s n The the e re dry a d crusted . gum for past quires to be soak ed in cold wat er for t wenty n the e e o e e four hours , or u til whol b c m s quit soft and pulpy and free from any hard pi eces ; and it e en t S o be as is fr qu tly dus y , it h uld wash ed by passi ng a stream o f co ld water ov er n it in a wire S i ev e before so aki g . Moulding the paste is an operation requiri ng n be e e care and pati e ce . Moulds may pr par d by the n e n e e M o uld i n g wi t h co f ctio r hims lf with m p a s t e G u e e plast r of Paris, from ﬁgur s or w ne o r e n e e d sig s mod ll d ith plastici wax , or from m etal w o rk o n which there may be so m e sui t n S e m f o r o abl e d esig . p cial oulds this w rk

o e e be o er e may , h w v r, bought at a m d at I n n o n t price (fig . casti g or m uldi g wi h gum paste the m o uld is first dusted with a littl e starch powd er shak en in with a n th e be e musli bag , or mould may quit fill ed with th e powd er and th en e mpti ed _ and tapped gently sev eral times o n the tabl e to remov e all the powd er except th e n h ' T e t n e n the e . —P hi film adh ri g to d sig Fig . 86. laster Moulds f or Table Ornament gum paste is th en pinned out to about the en and ne e e the and e e in ent l gth thick ss r quir d to fill mould , is pr ss d g ly e e not e but firmly with the thumbs . Too much pr ssur must b used or I f th e e n h the e e . t t e e e past is lik ly to stick mould is mor ha full , xc ss

s ff e th e e e the e n n A p a te is cut o l e v l with dg of d sig with a sharp k ife . slight tap of the edge o f the mould on the tabl e ought to be suffici ent I f e e e to e e e the n . e e s e r li v casti g it sticks, it is ith r b caus too much pr s ur has been exerted o r because th e mould has no t been properly prepared h e n ne and e . en t e e n e e er e dust d Wh d sig is v ry d licat or v y thi , it is c ssary s n n n h a k A e the t n to tre gthen it by fixing fine netti g o t e b c . ft r cas i g is trimm ed in the mould the back is brushed with a thick solutio n of an d e e ne n the e and en as gum arabic , a pi c of tti g about sam width l gth h n e e n n Th en e en t e e e e o . e d sig is pr ss d v ly it mould is th tapp d g tly ,

MOULDI NG AND CASTI NG FI GURES I N GUM PASTE 3

- Th and the gum paste d esign is reliev ed but adh eri ng to the n etti ng. e - M w ne e n e SPE C M S or GUM S OR O e Plat , I EN PA TE NA ENTATI N, sho s som at d sig s e in the m nne e e e the e e n e e in mould d a r d scrib d abov , figur b i g first mod ll d e e can be e plasticine and then cast with plaster of Paris . Th se pi ec s us d en n e n the S e e e e for b di g whil soft rou d id of a cak , or for dg s , or for build ing a drum for the top of a w edding cake on which the vase containing the flow ers stands . e n e e e n e e ne With som k owl dg of mod lli g , ith r with plastici or soft e be e e n in e wax , various mod ls may pr par d for casti g sulphur or plast r The e e e e e e e i of Paris . moulds pr par d with ith r of th s mat r als C h ar a c t e r o f P a st c n e be e n e e ne l i i may us d for mouldi g with gum past , st ari wax , n n in n h n e . e e e t e e marzipa , or grai d sugar Plastici is ma y r sp cts b st I t e e the e. s e o e not and mat rial for purpos is a ily work d , d s dry hard , e e e n n astin h m may b us d without cov ri g with oil or fat wh e c g t e oulds . The e O G I N S C e in th e Plat , M DELLIN PLA TI INE , shows four stag s S e n mod elli ng of a Cupid . This was hap d with the fi gers and fi nishe d Th e n . e e n with a small mod lli g tool figur is fixed securely o M o d e lli n g a C d a pi ece of zinc to prev ent its being remov ed when raising upi

the n e the e . not e and casti g mad with plast r This work is v ry difficult, e e e e e t The b com s v ery asy aft r a littl prac ice. fourth figure on the e e e the e e fine e plat shows a mould pr par d from mod l , mad with plast r in the nn e e ne i n the n direc of Paris ma r xplai d followi g C a s t i n g fr o m a n e e l n i M ° d elle d C u pid . e e e n tio s Pr par four pi c s of c ay or plastici 5 . wide nd 2 in ee n e t e e n fi a . e e t the e d p , joi d s cur ly og h r rou d gur so as to leave n n e en a margi of about 1 i . Plac suffici t plaster of Paris of as fine a o e in and e quality as p ssibl a bowl cov r with water . Mix together and , ,

en th e e e n t en e the o wh mixtur b gi s to hick , pour part ov r m del u ntil it

e e e . on e e is bar ly cov r d Blow this plast r whil still soft, so that it is forced i nto each small groove on th e ﬁgure ; th en add the remai nd er to the 2 in e A e e . mak mould about . d p llow all to set quite ﬁrm before n n n th removi g. Withi thirty mi utes e mould should be raised and put f w i e n an o n to dry for a hours rdi ary drying ov en . To protect the

e e e n e in use e sid s of this or oth r similar moulds from br aki g whil , a pi ce e e u e n of f lt or baiz sho ld b glu ed o . The prerfaration of the above mould is v ery S impl e as compared with e e are e and be e in som oth rs that larg r must mad sections . To giv e some S e e Of the e ene e the impl id as m thod g rally adopt d for p re p a ri n g D o ubl e e n e e w M O U Id f o r P e a C h e e one pr paratio of th s moulds, shall tak suitable n n - e e for mouldi g almo d past p ach es . Prepare a small fram e of wood or

3 in . ee 3 4 i n e. clay d p , from to . squar Cov er the inside with oil or

’ an and - ﬁll - y soft fat half with soft plaster . With a cam el s hair brush cover a nice - shaped fresh peach with oil and press this halfway i nto ,

the e . the n n e e plast r With poi t of a small k if mak two hol es o n one. e the e 2 i n . sid of latt r about apart . Prepare a second mixture of plaster; e t set in the e and ﬁl cov r hat which has fram with oil , l abo v e the l ev el the e the m e e n n of p ach with soft ixtur as it b gi s to thick e . When the 4 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

e set e e e the e whol has quit ﬁrm , r mov fram , pull apart the two halv es the , e the and the e of mould tak away fruit, mould is r ady for use. Som etim es the centres of th ese small moulds are prepared

U s e o f S ulph ur in with sulphur . M o d -m a n ul ki g . I n this case the small mould of sulphur is e in two e e e e and mad s parat pi c s, enclosed in a fram e of plaster of

Paris . There is an advantage in n e usi g sulphur moulds , as th y give a better ﬁnish than those e e e n pr par d with plast r o ly . S uch moulds ar e useful for

n e e maki g mould d fruits , cockl s e ent e een te with ch rry c r s, gr pas n and e n bon almo ds , oth r fa cy bons f o r crystallizing or cov er i n e g with caram l sugar . e e t n For tabl d cora io s, for n entrees o e dishi g up , or for ch ic pi eces of conf ec M o uld e d S t a n d i n R c e W ax tioner en e i , , y , c tr r a o S ug r . stands ar e mad e f e O e e - from carv d blocks Pr par d Fi . 87 . P aste Mo ds f or W g l r ul ax Centre Piece e are e in e ne ric , or mould d st ari 8 ne . 7 a re wax or grai d sugar . Plaster moulds (fig ) necessary wh en the n are The are sta ds mad e with sugar or wax . moulds soaked in cold wate r n I n e e e e o e e e n . n for at l ast hour b for usi g ith r cas , mouldi g with these e n n mat rials is ot a difficult Op eratio . To n e t e the e e obtai a wax mod l , ak r quir d quantity of wax and m elt this ov er a ba i n - ma r te (on no account must it be e e R e the mad v ry hot) . mov e mould from the e e n wat r, shak thoroughly to obtai a e e and in the cl ar surfac , fill with liquid wax . I n a f e wmom ents this will hav e se Th the t quite firm . e se veral parts of m t en be e e e e ould may h r mov d , to lib rat the o e m uld d wax . To mould th ese articl es in grained

— - . the e e n Fi ined o m Stan 88 . G a s a C o te d sugar (ﬁg boil r quir d qua g . r ug r p t nd e M aki n g G r ai n ed ities of sugar a wat r

S a O na m e nt s ' ug r r h - e R e e the e and to t e soft ball d egr e. mov from stov h n thicken and e e stir t e syrup with a spoon u ntil it begi s to b com s Opaqu e. D n off e e e the m in th e ne rai all xc ss wat r from ould , ﬁll with grai d sugar,

LACE PI PI NG AND CHOCOLATE MEDALLI ONS 5

I f and allow to lie for ten minutes before removing from the mould . e e n are n e be e th s sta ds wa t d hollow , this may a com H o llo wG ra in e d _ 3 u g ar W a x t a n d plished by pricking a small hol e in to the warm wax o f S s e e e n and n n the e n run or sugar b for s tti g ﬁrm , tur i g moulds upsid dow to h n out part of t e ﬁlli g .

CHAPTER I I

LACE P I PI NG A ND CHOCOLATE ME DALLI ONS

Mould ed festoons or moulded ﬁgures. are frequently used for the sid es e e are e in e of cak es . Th s mad eith er gum past or marzipan . Figures are used for inset panels and make the side of a w edding M o de ll ed P l a qu e s e e e te n e see e a n d F e s to o n s cak app ar much b t r tha if wholly pip d ( Plat , i °r a e c k s ' S P C M NS OF COR The s n n E I E CAKE DE ATION) . fa hio withi h f w n the n e t e e e n in last y ars has grow favour of maki g all pipi g v ry light , o and n n ar e la ce wo mostly holl w followi g patter s that e familiarly call d rk. AS e e and en e and ene this tak s much car pati c , as it is g rally L a c e o r N t P n n e es e e e ff e en e n ﬁne e ipi g c sary to pip from s v ral di r t dir ctio s , this be d ne off the e P e e tin n nea en work must o cak . i c s of or zi c tly b t to

— i . Z inc S a e f o Lac P F g . 89 h p s r e iping the d esired Shapes (fig 89) are covered with fine waxed paper on which the e n o ne een wn n d sig , if a difficult has b dra with pe cil o n the u n waxed e and the e e n en e n sid , , as pap r is quit tra spar t, this is asily seen o the upper S The e b n e. e e e e i n n e id pi c s hav to pip d small portio s at o c , D upli c at i n g D but as th ere are many parts that should be exact duplicates e s ign s e e n e n e of ach oth r, it is a good pla to tak a umb r of pieces of wax ed

e e n n the n e c e e e and pap r corr spo di g to umb r of dupli at d parts r quir d , draw the d esired d esign o n all at once with a p encil and pieces of carbon paper e n h E b twee t e pi eces of waxed paper . xact duplicates of the d esign are ne in the n Th obtai d this way with mi imum of troubl e . e fine piping readily e e the e e en the w n e and l av s wax d pap r wh ork is fi ish d , is then fixed on 6 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY th e r e th e e e e e n e e n bo d r of cak , or wh r v r wa t d , with a littl pipi g sugar . The fine pipi ng is usually made strong by S imply piping one fine line o n 8 h n . 9 S e t e S e top of a oth er . Fig hows som of hap s that may be used for this kind o f work . On birthday cak es small ch ocolate m edallions produce nice contrasts i th e o r e Th n colour with e whit colour d sugar . e m edallions for cak e

e are ene n and e e ene sid s g rally rou d or oval , hav ﬁgur s , sc s , or C h o c o l a te M e d a o n s n e on e . e n l lli mo ograms pip d th m For cak tops , rou d , ova , or f °’ C a ke s e - e e n are e and o n e e the n t n shi ld shap d m dallio s us d , th s i scrip io s e e ar A e en e r u n n h r quir d e piped . chocolat c tr o t e cak e top with coloured n n nt S o ft C h o c o l a t e royal ici g or with chocolate fo da is always ﬂat and c e n t e s 0“ C ake s" r o n e e and e not ne e s o b com s dull , do s look arly so w ll as

— 90 Quarte r Sphere o n Nail f o r —B - P i i n Fi 01 . ai n m Lace p g g . aric

e e e n e n e e and e a prop rly mould d m dallio of chocolat , atly pip d d corated

e e e es 8 m. with ﬂow rs , l av s , ﬁgur , Th ese may be prepared by warmi ng small cak es of chocolate u ntil

te s a nd n in . The e n are e t qui oft , shapi g this dough moulds m dallio s b s de in n e an d e e e n e C h o c o l at e ma lots at o c k pt w ll wrapp d u til r quired . D O U h g Wh en the cak es of chocolat e are prepared with oth er material

n e a nd o e e e o n the tha pur cocoa , sugar , c coa butt r , small str aks app ar the e n the e en . e n en m dallio s as mixtur hard s For Christmas s aso , wh a e T o e e e n e a re e e , e be e e in n e K p larg umb r r quir d th s should pr par d adva c , me d alliO M e e n e and e in - t cov r d with thi soft pap r, stor d air ight box es .

the e n e n an 1 . e n ee ene For dough w igh i to a cl a p lb of pur , u sw t d block nt the an e ba i nf -mf a ri e e e . e . cocoa , cut i o small pi c s Plac p ov r a (ﬁg

and th C nt it e . en m ix in p re p a ri n g warm e ocoa gradually u il m lts Th ”1 ° P a s t e . e . en o n e e e lb of cocoa butt r Wh b th substa c s hav dissolv d , ' i en e stiﬂ stir n ough warm dri ed icing sugar to form a m dium dough . R e e the an the ba i’ n - m a r i e ne the the n mov p from , k ad dough with ha d , and place this in the dryi ng cupboard for six or se v en hours before mould

in n n o n h e e . I t S be e g . O accou t should t e dough b mad hot hould k pt at LACE PI PI NG AND CHOCOLATE MED ALLI ONS 7

° ° a temperature of 85 to 90 F as ov erh eati ng will cause the ch o colate t o i The n n change ts colour quickly . qua tity of ici g sugar Qu ant i ty o f S u g ar t ° u s e n ec essary to form a dough of a working consistency will be n n th th e e een 1 and 1 lh. e e e e b tw } , but this gr atly d p ds upo quality of

coco a and the cocoa butter used . For preparing the m edallions use only moulds that are quite sm o oth W n the en and the n e e a nd . e e bright arm th s upo ov stock , with ﬁ g rs pr ss

w . n ffi n the e i su ci e t dough to fill shallo moulds Whil this is H o wt o F ill th e M 0 1“ e n ne en the on on the e and 0 b i g do g tly tap moulds a cloth tabl , as soon as the choc olate sho ws an oily surface place them at o nce in a As the e en it n an d coo l place to set firm . chocolat hard s will co tract m h The e n be en com e away fro the sid e of t e mould . m dallio s should tak

n the e the e . e are out, but without touchi g smooth surfac of chocolat Th y e n e e n n l e plac d o pap ered trays ready to r ceiv a coati g of var ish . Mou d d e e e be e e en the chocolat dough r quir s to quickly cool d , to pr v t u s e o f I c e f°r C 1i “ n e n n The o n be eff e e ° ° g i gr die ts from separati g . c oli g may ct d n i f e w quickly by placi g the moulds upon crush ed ce for a minutes t hen r emoving to the cool est part of the bak ery and l eavi ng th em unti l the e h h S n n te e t e e t e . chocola l av s sid s of moulds low cooli g , bad mouldi g, or e n the s the e the e e h ati g dough too much poils surfac of chocolat plaqu . Th e e f er e e e are n tin n e and b st moulds th s articl s of thi , slightly co cav , t e wi h polish d surface. There are two oth er m ethods of moulding which will also answ er th e Th e. e e in e e e the purpos first is that usually adopt d factori s , wh r dough e and e in the mad soft plac d mould with a small brush . A n o t h e r M e t h o d f M O U Id A n n te e and en e ° in g thi coati g of chocola is add d , wh quit dry n e r un en ne h a oth r is ov er it . Wh tur d out of t e mould these m edallion s are nne and e e n e A much thi r mor profitabl tha thos mad e solid . third e ne the n n u n m thod is to li moulds with a thi coati g of T hird M e t h o d f M ee ene and en set ° o u ‘di n g sw t d block cocoa , wh this has firm , to fill in n Th n with ordi ary chocolate dough . e disadva tage attending this m ethod is that the u n sw eeten ed cocoa is no t so rich in colour as the e - n r ddish brow chocolate .

AS e e the e th e e chocolat is v ry hygroscopic , surfac of m dallions must be e e the e n t n e e t 1 4 prot ct d from air by cov ri g wi h var ish pr par d wi h oz , Of e ﬁe ne 3 . 3 e n . r cti d spirits of wi , oz of r si , % oz gum R e c ip e f o r n nd M ed alli On Va rni S h a . n e . s th sa darach , oz of brow sh llac Cru h e dry ° n e en e e e the o 94 e i gr di ts tog th r, h at alc hol to F plac all togeth er in a

e and t e in - bottl , cork this, s or a warm cupboard for tw enty four hours ; en e th pass through a ﬁlt r paper. This varnish must be applied smoothly ’ t e - wi h a broad cam l s hair brush . This mixture does n o t make a thick k n e n are n stic y var ish , but two cov ri gs ecessary to form sufﬁcien t glaze o n e e n The ach m dallio . varnish should not be appli ed to th e chocolate to o n e n the S e e in soo aft r mouldi g, as pirit vaporat s a S hort tim e and the , n e e me e e e in n t n var ish b com s s ar d if brush d whil this co di io . This varnish

S be e e in e e en no t in us hould k pt stor d a cork d bottl wh e. 8 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

An e n n A no t h er Va rn i s h oth r ki d of var ish is mad e by mixn togeth er 4T R e c ip e m ni n I . u e e t e oz of g b with } gill of r c ifi d spirits of wi ne . C e E e e be e a e e n hocolat ast r ggs may pr p r d with dough as for m dallio s . Two thi n coatings of this are necessary to hav e the eggs of the proper I f h “ ” ne . t e nn e C h o c o l a t e thick ss dough is too soft or ru y , add mor E a s ‘ef E s gg ° n Th m . e e be e n n war ici g sugar ggs may fill d with fo da ts , te e e n n n the e e e e e chocola cr ams, or oth r fa cy bo bo s , s parat halv s s al d e e o e an d e in n e e e the tog th r with ch colat dough , wrapp d ti foil to pr s rv e n glossy surface. For show purpos s it is ecessary to coat them over with the varn ish . ne be e the n e E e e Grai d sugar may also us d for ma ufactur of ast r ggs . ar a in I n this case the eggs e c st plaster moulds . Th ey are prepared in the e nne e n G r ain e d - S u g a r exactly sam ma r as d scribed for maki g sugar E 3 8 “ ? E gg s ~ en e e e see . e e be e c tr pi c s ( p Th s should mad hollow , e c e e nt e and an n t n e n fill d with cho olat s , or oth r dai i s , i scrip io or som fa cy d esign piped on top .

CHAPTER I I I

FI G UR E A N D ART P I P I NG

I t is v ery probabl e that if the av erage confectioner had been con

n e the e e e e e he e een fro t d with abov titl , say tw lv y ars ago, would hav b its e e n n be ene F igur e p ipi n g at a loss as to xact m a i g, for it will g rally wA “ “ ” a N e e Old s ta ei s as the e o n admitt d by g that, far as xhibiti en shO n n e n e the art e n en b ch or p wi dow was co c r d , of figur pipi g was th f — a w— e e e ew f e n e e e en in i ts i n fancy . Th r w r a v ry xpo ts about that e e e e e and e n tim , but th y k pt th ir work at hom , if th y did bri g it out n was s e e be e n n occasio ally it a sum d by oth rs to som thi g tur ed out of a n n At o and no t e e e . the en m uld , fur h r comm t was pass d upo it about adv t th e ne wen e e n e n ee n th e of c tury , how v r, this ki d of work b ga to cr p i to confectionery classes at th e big e xhibitions and wh en figure pipi ng pure and simpl e beat all oth er forms Of artisti c work in the sugar line in a e e e n e ne n e e n s e a cl ss sp cially d vot d to artistic co f ctio ry, it was i t r sti g to e w n e n n e e n w ho e o n xhibits of this ki d b ga to i cr as , so that it is a sta dard The a ri e e form of d ecoration . m jo ty of thos who att mpt it have discov ered that it is not quite so easy as it l ooks . The e e e e e en e and met t writ r of this chapt r has had larg xp ri c , has wi h n n He e n co sid erabl e success i n this bra ch of work . will h er draw upo this en e e n n e O rigi n a lit y experi ce to giv som i structio to oth rs who may wish to ° f D C S i m g e the n e n e n are practis art , accompa i d by origi al d sig s , which the c e e e e n n e e n out om of ith r m mory , imagi atio , or clos obs rvatio , but ’ e n not e n H e e not e n it c rtai ly copi s from a ybody s work . do s m a to be i nferred from this that stud ents and perse v ering figure and landscape PIPED DESIGNS FO R C AKE SIDES

10 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY of th ese pictures are eith er reproductions of photos from life or from draw t are e e n n e . S ee the S ubj e c t s fro m i gs by artis s who th ms lv s aturalists ’ F an c i e rS JO U f n als A M O S FOR P e G . e e Plat , NI AL UTLINE PI IN Th s pictures The ne an are most valuable for your purpose. outli c be copied in sugar h e e and e e te e and e n t the n o n to t slat or tray , r p a d ov r ov r agai ill outli e t o n fo rm assum es the correct propor i s . Further progress can be mad e by n in the o the e t t e it n the ﬁlli g b dy , as all b s artis s mak plai to casual

e e e e the e e e e e e in - and- e obs rv r wh r gr at st r li f is r quir d a black whit study , e e and o f e the B ird s a wh th r it is a bird or a stag, cours copyist t S m e S ubj e e ' i pl will do w ell to follow out those indication s and get his are th e reli ef accordingly . Birds about S impl est studi es for a figure e and e o and the e e e pip r , p rhaps d gs small r quadrup ds com S ta g s E a s y . next ; and th e writer has fou nd tha t stags l end themselv es o e e the s t n e e e e e n m r r adily to ugar ar ist tha hors s, p rhaps b caus th ir hor s s o e e n t do much to stablish th ir id e ity . Whether the H o s e s D fi c t r if ul . t en n o ne - e n n t e no t s ud t fi ds mor difficult tha a o h r or , it will be w ell for him to stick to the obj ect h e h as in view and overco m e ffi e a nd en o f t o n and n n his di culti s , wh his art propor i a atomy is o ce h find the t G ro upin g s h o uld acquired e will ask is a very easy o ne when b e O rigi n a l n I t it com es to groupi g . is at this stage that he should en e e and n e e h e disp s with his copi s study atur as much as possibl , so that c an mak e up his o wn gro ups or copy those from the parks or cou ntry n la es . I n th e n e en e n n n ma ag m t of such studi s as a flyi g bird , a hu tsma o n e o r o n n e e e be e e e the hors back , a li , co sid rabl car has to x rcis d with n I t be o no n o . t e r yal ici g has to fairly s ft, but soft ough F n B d s lyi g ir . n the th e e n n I n to go beyo d form subj ct is i te ded to be . the e the n n e e let the et cas of flyi g bird , it is c ssary to body g fairly dry e e n o n the n e e t e n in and e b for pipi g wi gs ; oth rwis h y will si k , with th ir th n additional bulk will spread the outli ne o ut of shape. For e sam e reaso ’ it is necessary to let the huntsman s horse dry before you put th e rid er th n o n e n in . e e his back , or his l gs will si k With lio , mak him first

’ e ne ne e and en t the ne p ipi n g L i o n s lik a lio ss (ma l ss), wh tha is dry ma M a n ” The n b can be added with safety . ici g should e mad e a A sm all n t e fe e t e e e e . t en li tl stif r for such purpos s as h s , how v r qua tity ak o ut the n e e e n e t of basi , with a littl mor sugar add d , would a sw r his e and en the m ne the n can be e o n in e purpos , th a of lio pip d irr gular e en n the e n e n on str aks , comm ci g with s mbla c of a rough crow top of h n A e e e e en o n t t e h ead a d betw een the ears . v ry gr at d al d p ds how his ne n e en e ne e and ma is ma ag d , but wh w ll do it is a good subj ct , will draw far more attention p erhaps than th e most elaborate bit of scrolli ng or lace work that m ay hav e tak en treble the tim e to accomplish . S o e e the ee n s find e o hould , h w v r, fr ha d copyi t it v ry difficult to c py e in the nne e e n to C o pyi n g by pictur s ma r d scrib d , owi g lack of draughts T f a in e g ~ n in n e en en e n e ma ship his compositio , or v lack of pati c , a oth r a nd e e be te n e e ee simpl r m thod may adop d , am ly , to plac a sh t of glass FI GURE AND ART PI PING 1 1 over the picture and th en trac e the outline of the subj ect th ereon with not be e e the piping bag . This will such m ritorious work as that a com lished ee n but t e e n e p by fr ha d , s ill it will l av a stro g whit out p ipi n g 0 “ G l a s s ne and the e e can be e ne . li , pi c of glass fill d up with such outli s A e e e e be e th e ft r this a pi c of black pap r may lightly gumm d at back , and the en can en e e ee n n e e it stud t th copy from th s fr ha d o c mor , for is the ee n and t n t e n fr ha d work , tha o ly , tha l ads up to origi ality , which

S hould be the ultimate goal . n n A o r The next thing to be co sidered is groupi g . group of d eer e n te en e e e e e cattl , la d birds or wa r fowl , all l d th ms lv s r adily to ﬁgur n e e e o on n o pipi g . H r a good illustrat d b ok atural hist ry, or G ro upin g A n m a the e e en e e e to and nt e i l s xc ll t p riodicals d vot d sport cou ry lif , ’ be e n e n the e the e may of gr at assista c , supposi g Op rator s visits to r al n ar n n A e s ce es e i frequ e t. gr at vari ety of trees may be C o m my a n d n I n e e e i i i i e and S o t o n a s fou d , too, th s p r od cals , W th rust c cottag s p r J ur l t ° “W " he e e e t . lik , mostly r produc d from actual photographs t e i n em n e e e and No ic th how dista t obj cts m lt away , so to sp ak , work n n n the e n e t your sugar accordi gly , bri gi g for grou d obj c s out as boldly n t e e e t e e. as possible . By h s m a s you ge p ersp ctiv The ﬁgure piper of to - day has imm ense advantages over those of ov er e e e n th e e en e a d cad ago , for if our m mory is at all lacki g at pr s t tim

ene the e n o e ~ o ur as to colour of rustic sc ry , prof ssio al artist has c m to

n e the and ne en e . e w e e can ﬁnd assista c with popular i xp siv post card Th r ,

nee be e t e e the e on the e and if d , subj c s which will mbrac four s as s of y ar, ’ “ ” the n e t o ne co f c i r s colourist will supply us with almost M ixin g C o l o ur s . I f the e en o n n any tint that is required . pip r is b t la d “ e S n een f n olkine n and scap , pi ach gr , saf ro or y , brow n or black jack

r ne e en e e all the eff e a re n e e ca mi will , if prop rly bl d d , produc cts that c ssary , n n on a chocolate m edallion for i sta ce . They require blendi ng just in t he “ The een e sam e way as water or oil colours . gr as a rul is too viol ent

be o e e n t e the olkine and a so it has to s b r d dow with a li tl of y black j ck . Yolkine and browning bl end ed in different proportions (without the green) a re e ee n e in t n n — ene in xc di gly us ful au um ti ts just such a sc , fact, as that “ ” o n on the e t n R S sh w colour d pla e e titl ed AI ED . I n landscape piping a good knowl edge of trees is as indispensabl e e n the ene n and d e the as that r lati g to g ral a atomy of birds qua rup ds , as branch es and foliage of the majority of them hav e all L a n d s c a e P n w p ipi g . e o n e e e n n e th ir p culiar charact ristics . Not , for i sta c ,

the e f e en e et een the and the the e mark d dif r c b w poplar oak , or hors e n d h an t e . I t ee nne e ch st ut birch may s m u c ssary to Di ff e re n t F e a t ur e s ° f e t e to e e e n n in Tr e s ' a t mpt mak th s disti ctio s sugar , but as n e e does e s e e en e in e w lo g as th r xi t a wid div rg c th ir form e may as w ell represent them as n early lik e the mod e] as paper cornet and royal n w I f s n a n o . w ici g will allo us e d esire to repre e t ak T o P e th a w ip e O k . ee e can e n e o a nd tr , mak its tru k som what r ugh thick in n h n proportio to its h eight . T e bra ch es should spread out almos t at 1 2 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

n n in t w nd a d n I n h n e a . t e right a gl s , twist tur a mos ayward fashio n the e e n i eddish- n and S be autum l av s tur a brow , hould t A u u m n T i nt s . n The ree e treated accordi gly . poplar t is v ry useful to n e the e nt e f e t e are enei all een i n ne co v y id a of dista f c s , as th y g y s a li ,

a nd t e bi anches n en en to r h ir havi g a t d cy grow upwa ds, P o a ee pl r T r s . e e e e en t e eno e en en een th y r v al th ir id ti y cl arly ugh , v wh s an n e I t o te ne e e e e t em e at y ra g is abs lu ly c ssary , how v r, to pip h v ry n and e in n wt the ee in th f o e e n fai tly v ry small compariso i h tr s r grou d , in he n e e e f u s e o f T r e e s in order to get t c ssary f ect of perspectiv e ; for

P e rs e e tiv e ‘ p it seems to be an established rul e that th ese trees should be e t ene e e t associat d wi h our rural sc ry , but s ldom associat d wi h woods “ ” The ee a ‘ u if n and e t . bea t ul t ee for s s b ch is autum r , T h e B e e c h T re e the bark being comparatively smooth and of a greyish t nt e the e e t e are n e - e S n i , whil l av s at tha p riod a brillia t r ddish y llow , howi g wl e l in I t ee n up a subj ect pip ed in colours . is tr s a d tints such as th ese that may be safely introd uced in fox - hun ting and ph easant - shooti ng ene n the n een S n and e sc s, always avoidi g brillia t gr s of pri g summ r for e uch subj cts . The writer has sanguine hopes that art piping will still go on gathering e I n n h n . e e e e t e o n o ur e b n r cruits ma y ways it h lps to r li v mo to y at xhi itio s . I t e e e e the n and e te th e n the e and h lps to l vat mi d duca ha d of op rator, it ’ e n f n mak s him a k ee observ er o ature s pictures .

CHAPTER IV

B O I L I N G S U G A R

e e e n and n - e en e Boil d sugar is us d for cov ri g fruit almo d past c tr s , or i n the e t n en e e e e e n e e pr para io of c tr pi c s for tabl d coratio , mad with caram l , I e e n n ne o r e . t U s e s o f spu , grai d , pull d sugar is pr par d by boili g B ° 1e d s e " i ug to a given temperature a solution of sugar an d water with The e n a littl e creain of tartar or glucose . cl ar solutio of sugar is made n 1 l e e n and e t n by addi g gil of wat r for ach pou d of sugar, h a i g to ° 2 I t n e e all the S be s e 2 0 F . is c ssary that sugar crystals hould dis olv d e e th e e n to th e not e o e in b for syrup b gi s boil , as lumps do r adily diss lv the n and in e e e e e s n and boili g sugar , if littl pi c s may caus r cry tallizatio n he e e S n n th the t . e e grai whol mass V ry low boili g cha g s colour of sugar, and f o r this reason the copper pan contai ni ng the liquid sugar sho uld An t e o n be set over a go o d bright ﬁre that it may bo il quickly . o h r p i t to e e e is n o e e n ne e the s r m mb r , that by addi g m r wat r tha is c ssary, ugar

to e n on e on th e ﬁre e e the e e e e e e e has r mai l g r b for r quir d t mp ratur is r ach d , an d ten to h A he e e en e this ds spo il t e col o ur. t t sam tim ough wat r is required to dissolve the sugar crystals tho roughly ; t he quantities giv en e e en abov should prov sufﬁci t. ANIMAL OUT LINES FO R PlPlNG

BOI LI NG SUGAR 1 3

2 ene e e n the n A sugar th ermom eter (ﬁg . 9 ) is g rally us d for t sti g boili g e e are e e n e t n n t e sugar ; th r oth r m a s of asc r ai i g his, but th y S ug ar Th e rm ° m e t en n e e The o n scale e e a re no t so clea or so r liabl . f llowi g will s rv as a guid e f o r tho se who are no t acquainted with the th ermom eter“

° ft a 2 45 So b ll F . H ard ball 25 0 So t crac 2 80 f k D e gre e s o f

B O ile d S a . Hard c ra ck 3 1 2 ug r Caramel 35 0

As just stated th ere are oth er ways of testing the boiling sugar without A e r e n n e n re e e . e e a th ermom t r p rfo at d iro spoo , a pi c of b t wi , U s e o f h n n n e rf o ra t e d t e e o be e . Th e or ﬁ g rs ly , may us d spoo gp o o n o r f e or pi ece o wir may be employed with fair W ir e f o r T e s t n 1 esults until the sugar reach es the soft ball i g

e is n e e us h n e . degree . Th n it c ssary to e t e ﬁ g rs The ﬁrst workable d egree to which sugar is boil ed is e that k no wn as the blo w. To t est roughly for this d gree

the n e e en e . I . 330 h B w spoo or pi c of b t wir (Vol , p ) T e l o D e e e ' is dipped into the sugar and th en lifted out gr and n t en e e r blow hrough , wh small particl s of cl a syrup will blow off The next d egree is that known as the ea ther en the n e e f . Wh boili g sugar has r ach d T h e F e at h e r D e e e this stage it may be blown easily fro m the gr

h r Th so a l - spoon or wire in long s eds . e f t b l or full feather d egree is tested by making a small bulb of sugar betw een the n e e n in e n n ﬁ g rs whil cooli g cold wat r, or by obtai i g

n e e e e the o o n en e lo g f ath ry pi c s from sp or b t wir . As the novice may be fearful abo ut dipping his fi nger n o n be s e i t boili g syrup , it may tat d that all that is e en rn n di required to pr v t bu i g is to first p P re c a u t i o n s 14 A a n “ B m 3 the n e n e en n the n g i u s . 33307 5253 fi g r i to wat r, th i to boili g en n the e n e en sugar, th i to cold wat r agai ; but v if the fi nger is dipped i nto the hot sugar without pre vious wetting it does not n Th e h o e in the n . e n n t e e en e bur xpla atio is that m istur fi g r or, wh wat r e o n the n e n e e e th is us d , fi g r forms a thi lay r of wat r vapour, form d by e e t the e e n and e n h a of sugar , which s rv s as a vapour cushio pr ve ts actual nt e een the a and h n e co act b tw sug r t e fi g r. For the manufacture of so m e fondant - cream centres for chocolate e n s u e the n e t e fiv e e ree cov ri g , gar is boil d to xt s ag , d g s T h e H a rd - B all D e e e i . kn wn h r a h her o t e ha d ll s gr b . n e e g , as Thi agai is t st d by

n the n e n the and o n in e dippi g ﬁ g rs i to hot sugar, quickly c oli g wat r . Som e t e e e s e e n ee the prac ic is r quir d for thi m thod of t sti g, to k p H w o t o H o ld ‘ n e s en e t n the e th e f in e rs t o ﬁ g rs lightly b t whil aki g out sugar , also whil j g “ “ m S a r n nt in th P ug worki g this i o a ball e water . By ho ldi ng the

n e e e en e n in the e e n ﬁ g rs quit p rp dicular whil dippi g sugar, th r is ot suﬁi 1 4 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

en n n to e n e a nd n w n ci t cli gi g th m to obtai satisfactory r sults , agai hat qua tity ' ‘ e e e off n the e and uickl th r is may r adily drop i to wat r Iq y dissolv e. This e not e en n mo T h e S o ft - C rac k do s so r adily happ whe re water has boil ed e e c r and the e en the ne t e the so t out, sugar is thick r, wh xt s ag , f

cr a ck e e . , is r ach d e ee in S e e e e . n f w ugar at this d gr quickly ris s t mp ratur Withi a e

- n e l e e e the ha r d cr a ck and t T h e H ard C r ac k mi ut s it wil hav r ach d , mus D e gre e be instantly remov ed from the pan if required f o r making At e e e th e et n . w e e pull d sugar this stag , if t st d with fi g rs , it will quickly e n n e s et hard and will asily s ap whe pressed . B esid es br aking this between th e n e er n e e the e e e the an to fi g rs to asc tai wh th r sugar is r ady , r mov p the e the e e n e e the T e s t in g S uga r sid of stov , whil biti g a small pi c of W t th e T e e t i h h e een the eet and th e ee e n sugar b tw t h , if it sticks to t th , r tur wn on agai n and boil a f e mi utes l ger. Sometim es sugar that has n ot been w n n n e en e a d en be n f o r cook d suffici tly ill grai whil pulli g, will th o ly fit

n . Or e e e no t en and t he maki g syrup or black jack wh r this do s happ , e e n e and e a e e e pull d sugar is us d for buildi g vas s oth r rticl s , th s may fall A to e e and be . s e e e fﬁ pi c s, all labour will lost th r is som di culty , which can n be e e e e en e in o n a nd o n at o ly ov rcom by xp ri c , b ili g w rki g sugar h e n e e t e e e e . this stag , b st pla is to t st always with a sugar th rmom t r

S e n n ca r a m el d r ugar boil d to or what is k ow as , is slightly a k At o ne e in . e n T h e C ara m e l colour tim this was much us d for maki g D e gre e n n e i ornam e tal ha dl es to d ecorat built tr ﬁes . Caram el is I still used for som e purposes . t should be of a bright gold en colour . I f e e ne e o n the e pur r ﬁ d sugar is us d for b ili g , goods mad from it should , n n e f w e e n e e o r t o u d r fair circumsta c s , r mai p rf ctly dry or S ug a r P r o p e rly B o e d s o ee d e e e the the il h uld thr ays , but this is impossibl wh r quality of K e e p D ry “ sugar is at fault . When a boiling solution of sugar and water has passed the soft - ball e ee e n n e e n d gr , it may r adily grai u l ss som ki d of acid U s e o f A c id an d G c o s e yo P re e a lu or glucose is added . Cr am of t rtar is mostly used for o v e n t G ra m m g ‘ this purpose wh en th e boiling has to be carried to a high I f e e e the temperature. too larg a quantity is us d it will caus sugar to n e and e e m e U s e o f C r e a m cha g colour quickly , goods cov r d or ad with it ° f T a m r are likely to be so ft and sticky . On e gram of cream of e n w n e th e e e tartar, mix d with small st possibl qua tity of at r upo a bright

l . 1 b . 7 n be f en 0 . spoo , will sufici t for sugar, or oz to about lb of n t be e n m een e e sugar . This should o add d u til all scu has b r mov d from the an e n e the n and the e e . boili g sugar, sid s of p cl a s d from hard particl s Boiling sugar intended for pulli ng or such purposes is all th e better for o e the addition of a teaspoonful of gl ucose with the cream of tartar . Gluc s sho uld not be used alone as a pre v en tive of grai ning wh en sugar f o r n e n e e nt be ne e and pulli g is b i g boil d , as a larg r qua ity would c ssary , en e n e e on as this soft s mor rapidly tha sugar its lf, a v ry small porti is needed .

1 6 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

u n n nne n and en e e e are sed , but o gat pi d out thi th mould d is much b tt r e for Ordinary plain shap s . n e e e o ne o n to n e Of e Wh en maki g s v ral articl s , or which a umb r oth r

- n t o be Of o n n e o be e e e e o . pieces of ougat hav t fast d , h y sh uld all c lour s be ne e n the U nifo rm i ty o f Thi colour may obtai d by slowly r warmi g hard

C o o . n are e en n the l ur trimmi gs , which mad wh cutti g out various h e e and n the e e te t e e e . shap s , usi g r warm d ma rial for small xtra pi c s Nouga t Mon téli m a r is anoth er kind of mixture in which almonds e e in e n e e e are used . This is mad to s ll small squar or oblo g pi c s shap d e I t n e o in on e . e e N o ug a t moulds waf r pap r is c ssary , as much as p ssibl , M 0 mé1im ar~ e n e n the e e to prot ct this co f ctio from air , as it asily tak s up n 1 ﬁll d d n e e the n n e e : 2 lb. ete moisture an softe s . Pr par followi g i gr di ts 2 l n e n l l ' n 2 b. S b. e almo ds , 7} lb . lump sugar , 5 bla ch d icilia pistachios , l whit 1 . e o ne 6 h e 2 n e n . e e h y, w it s, va illa b a s , lb small bright ch rri s , 9; lb glucos ,

- the n and n rose and orange ﬂower water . Put almo ds pistachios i to a warm

n en i n e t e be e en e e . e dryi g ov , ord r that h y may quit dry wh r quir d Plac th e e and h ne e e in e an e the ba i n -m a r i c and glucos o y tog th r a copp r p ov r ,

stir th ese i ngredi ents togeth er until th e mixture is made qui te hot . B o il the and n e n t 2 o f e and n e sugar, va illa b a s wi h 5 gills wat r a pi ch of cr am

- t in th te the e ee . e of tartar, to hard crack d gr Whisk his with whi s , which e een e en f e e the e n and t e n e hav b b at to a stif froth r mov b a s , mix his m ri gu e e th n e and e n n e the e tog th r with e ho y glucos . Co ti u to stir mixtur still ov er the ba rn - m a r i a u ntil it becom es stiff ; then add the other i ngredi ents

n n - r w n n e alo g with a littl e ro se and ora ge ﬂowe ater . Fill i to oblo g fram s e een n e e e e e the e e which hav b li d with waf r pap r, cov r ov r with sam pap r , and n n n in whe almost cold cut i to shap es a d wrap wax paper .

CHAPTER VI

SP UN - S UGA R D ECOR ATI ON

n n w e in e Th ere is ot o so much spun sugar us d tabl decorations as th ere o e e a o and n be e s n e ne was s m y ars g , amo gst what may call d hop co f ctio rs , n e e e e in e the art nn n as disti guish d from thos mploy d hot ls , of spi i g sugar is n n n Y n an o . et e c be e n and On alm st u k ow pr tty thi gs mad from spu sugar, thi s account it is as w ell that mod ern con fection ers should no t altogeth er ne e t n n A 1 5 0 e nn n gl ct his bra ch o f the busi ess . bout y ars ago spi i g sugar one Of the t Of the en and t n t e was high ar s kitch , all sor s of fa cy abl n d ecoratio s w ere mad e fro m spu n sugar. H ere is the i nstructio n from an e 1 5 0 e a o n s e web O ld M et h o d old work publish d y ars g to spi a ilv r o f S n n n e n e » - r ﬁ d s pi i g e e e . e e e ne for cov ri g sw tm ats Tak 1 lb of tr bl ugar , U a r S g ' in one and set i t e o e o er e ﬁre o n e e lump , b f r a m d at a silv r salv r

e e e. Set a - e n and en e n to run e e or p wt r plat it littl asla t, wh it b gi s lik cl ar e the e e Of the e e e tin e n o s et wat r to dg salv r , hav r ady a cov r or chi a b wl , SP EC IMENS O F MO D ELLING IN SUG AR

SPUN -SUGAR DECOR ATION 1 7 o n th e n o e a stool with mouth dow ward , cl s to your sugar, that it may no t n en e e n n e and e cool by carryi g too far ; th tak a cl a k if , tak up as Of the the n the n e and fine e much syrup as poi t of k if will hold , a thr ad e o the n t e will com fr m poi t, which you mus draw as quick as possibl and and n the o n it backwards forwards also rou d mould , as l g as will h n B e e e no t the on the S pin from t e k ife . v ry car ful you do drop syrup wb en o n e n the n e , if you do you will spoil it ; th dip y ur k if i to syrup agai and e o e and ee nn n n ne tak up m r , so k p spi i g u til your sugar is do or your B e e not let th e n e the web is thick eno ugh . sur you do k if touch lump o n the e no t e e e e and no t n plat that is m lt d , it will mak it brittl spi at A web e e n the in n s O\ all . gold was mad by h ati g sugar a chafi g di h I the e the e n th n fire . n e o a charcoal first cas m lti g of sugar, to which e een e e e the e e ee e wat r had b add d , would asily rais it to thr ad d gr , whil the higher h eat of the charcoal fire would produce ca ram el Of so m e of h n the en e t e e e . sugar, h c gold thr ad The mod ern m etho d Of spinning sugar is to boil the required quantity and e n e Of and e o e of sugar wat r, with a pi ch of cr am tartar a littl gluc s ,

- R th e e and the e ee . e e to hard crack d gr mov from stov , to H e igh t t o pre ven t the sugar from changi ng its colour stand the co pper B o il S pi nn i n g S ug a r . en e fﬁ n e pan in so m e cold wat er. Wh it has cool d su cie tly tak Of the e and e in e in n n e n it out cold wat r plac a cak hoop a sla ti g dir ctio ,

the e o ne e . e n ee en so that sugar com s to sid Plac two baki g sh ts l gthways , ne e n n the and e n e e n tur d upsid dow upo ﬂoor , whil holdi g a gr as d rolli g in e th e eet n in the and the p out straight ov r sh s dip a spoo sugar, with n n the e n Off the l eft ha d o a l ev el with should r spi sugar H o wt o S pi n s a“ by shaking the spoon backwards and forwards over the ug

n - in The t he n - in i n n rolli g p . sugar will fall across rolli g p lo g threads . Continu e the Operation until enough spu n sugar is Obtained ; then cut o ff the en c e e the n eet and e e e ds whi h adh r to baki g sh s , pr ss as r quir d

n e o n the . en e e e i to moulds , or shap cold slab Wh mor sugar is r quir d nn n an d in e nn n use for spi i g , that cours of spi i g is too firm for , warm the copp er pan over a slow fire so that the sugar does not change n colour . By havi g two spoo ns ready for spinning the sugar some adv an e ne the set n e e and tag is gai d , as sugar will quickly firm upo th s , must be e e n th h n n r mov d by tappi g e spoon upon t e tabl e. Wh e o e is finish ed the e e d n n e use an o e e be o t . I f with , oth r is r ady for , tim d l s possibl e the n be e e t n ee n to be e spu sugar should pr par d wi hout di g r warm ed . B esid es spin ni ng the sugar Off from the spoo ns i n the manner referred be e en n to , this may accomplish d by fast i g two forks back to back ; or a n e e e e e n small bu dl of wick r sticks or pi c s of wir will a sw er U s e s o f The S n s a the sam e purpose. hard sugar may be quickly remov ed pu ug r e e and e e e e h n e t e . from th s , ith r will s rv as w ll as spoo s Whatev er is used e be e e e e n e n the for this purpos should warm d b for b i g dipp d i to sugar .

' ’ Spun sugar is used for making birds nests and for ﬁnishing many dishes

e e & c . of d ss rt,

V OL. 11. 18 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

CHAPTER VII

P ULLE D - SUGAR WOR K

e e n n nn n The e f Pulling sugar is a mor mod r art tha spi i g . f ect of n e een and e the pulli g is to produc a bright sh , to mak sugar E ff e c t o f P n e and ee to eat. e e e ulli g v ry crisp fr Pull d sugar , as us d for tabl ar s ug ’ f e h n ent e & c . e t e or am s, low rs , , is mad with sugar boil d to hard I t e and n th crack d egree. is work d backwards forwards u til e whol e n T e e e ee . O e en the mass b com s silv ry , with a rich sh pr v t p r e p a r a t i o n o f P ull e d sugar from sticking to the slab the latter should be lightly s ug a r “ e Oil o r te es e n e en t e coat d with salad whi Odourl s vas li , th smoo h d n On e n e e n e ov er with thi pap er . ly v ry slight oili g with ith r is cessary ; n e e e e te the p re p a ri n g if a large qua tity is us d it b com s highly h a d by sugar th e S a ° l b n h I n e o e e are n h and bur s t e hands . som fact ri s glov s wor by t e n t n e wo rkm en wh en pulling the hot sugar . This is o cessary wh en pre n n e e pari gsmall qua titi s forbask ts, o r for small pulle d - sugar leav es for e n ic s a d other purposes . No f a t sho uld be rubbed o n the hands ; th ere is l ess dangerof th ese blister in en e e e g wh k pt quit dry . Whil pulling the hot sugar the surface no t be t n and e should or , if car is

—S a -bo i e en in e e the n Fig. 93 . ug r l r tak this r sp ct ha ds be e ff e e b h will l ss a ct d y t e h eat. h w e n o f are e e n en t o e and W or mor boili gs sugar r quir d , sufﬁci t sugar h f w f e be e t e t e O e and the wat r should mix d for lot, wi h a drops ac tic acid , n e b n f w e e n whole mad i to a cl ar syrup boili g for a mi utes . M aki n g y S t o c s R e e the e e n an k yrup mov scum , pass all through a hair si v i to a cool p , f o r B o ‘lm g ' and this will form the stock from which each boiling may be e te n e n m n mad e . This m eth o d is much b t r tha pr pari g a s all qua tity Of n The S sugar and water for each boili g . stock ugar should be cov ered w n e n with a et cloth to preve t a lay r of crystals from forming o the surface .

- 93 h n M easure i nto a copp er sugar boiler (ﬁg . ) t e qua tity of cl ear syrup e a n A e d n the an o n th e e . o e r quir d , sta d p stov llow to boil as quickly as p ssibl , and n h after a f ewmin utes add th e cream Of tartar . Whe t e syrup reach es ° e e e n on the e A f e 1 2 e . e w a t mp ratur of 3 F . pour at o c Oil d slab ft r a o en ral th n m m ts se th e edges o f the sugar and turn th ese towards e ce tre . the t o e en n a nd e e Wait for sugar cool furth r , th roll it i to a ball r mov n n n H w the e the . e e o t o to cool st part of slab Comm c pulli g by layi g “ P u s a . ug r the l eft hand o n the sugar and stretching it wi th the right n the n n n n f he n o ha d . With right ha d ho ldi g o e e d O t sugar bri g it v er th n n R e e e n nt th e e en e e . e to l ft, so joi i g both ds tog th r p at this op ratio u il PULLED - SUGAR WOR K 1 9

e e e e o en n be e e whol mass b com s mor s lid , wh both ha ds should mploy d n h in n n n B n th togeth er by pulli g out t e sugar a lo g thi ba d . y pulli g e i n i t nd n 4 5 . e a e n sugar out thi , about to wid , quickly cools , l ss pulli g

e I t r n no t o e r the t e ‘ is requir d . is impo ta t to v rwo k ma rial E fie c t s o f v rwf O e ° kih ° n o e and e e o be g duri g this pr c ss , as littl air as possibl sh uld in I f s ne the een e e the e . work d thi is do sh will quickly l av sugar, which Th n w n and e e e e . e ee , H o wS e n ill grai b com us l ss bright sh which should h e i s P re d u e e Ch be o n n e on e - e e no t so pr ou c d pull d sugar articl s , is mad , so much n the o n the in the te e n n and by worki g sugar slab , as la r Op ratio s of shapi g handling after l eavi ng the cooli ng tabl e . As soon as the sugar is sufficiently pull ed on th e slab roll it i nto a e on e e e and n o n the o en e ball , plac a wir si v , sta d this v stock , or ov r a steam - h eated iron table similar to the hot tabl es used in som e hotels and n e n n n restaura ts . Whil shapi g i to fa cy forms it should ~ E ffe c t s o f O v e r n n h e a t n e n no t be e e te . O e e e e t e o ov rh a d v rh ati g r d rs sugar s ft, h i g wh ° u1°m g ' and in on e en e e e n e e c s qu c asi r to ha dl , but it also caus s it n h to grain an d set firm like ca dy . Pi eces of t e pull ed sugar may be t e o n e e the e o f sligh ly warm d by h ldi g th m ov r flam a small spirit lamp . The e and no e e o e e e and sugar is mov d to fro , so that part b com s v rh at d sticky . Wh en coloured sugar is required use those colo urs that are in powd er a n in n e t e o d e . e no b e f rm , dissolv boili g wat r W ak colours should us d , the e e e and the he e e t . as th y low r t mp ratur gravity of sugar C o l o urin g th e 3 0 3 ‘ The colouring matter may be add ed to the boili ng sugar a f ew 8 ~ mom ents before it is sufficien tly boil ed or directly it is poured on the I f ar e e the e e e e o . slab . suitabl colours mploy d this is b st m thod to foll w

Th e e e - are n ne b st colours for boil d sugar work a ili u s e o f p o wd e re d A h ih h C °I ° ar n e n e e U f s ' powd ers . These e more expe siv tha som others u n n r n Th e e o e a e e e . e e s d by co f cti rs , but of xc ptio al quality powd r is e in n e and e e ee e n solubl boili g wat r v ry pow rful , two or thr drops b i g f en to o As ese are e 2 . t su ﬁci t c lour lb of sugar . th v ry brigh th ey are the e worth xtra cost . Flowers mad e with pull ed sugar a re more eff ective in app earance than

e e e t n n e. e a re on c n thos pr par d wi h royal ici g or marzipa past Th y , ac ou t the e t n fi e e e . of sugar quickly s t i g ﬁrm , mor dif cult to pr par K e e pi n g P ull e d S a G O O d S TO retai n the gloss or sheen which giv es th em such a showy ug r

e n e it ne e a to ee e in an - app ara c , is c ss ry k p th m air tight glass case . These

e e e be e in the e e n e ﬂow rs or l av s, which may mad qui t s aso , will r mai n h a rd and eta n the een e t e in tin e e r i sh if car fully s or d box s, mad with a reservoir f o r h e t e o o . Th e e s the e and quicklim at b tt m lim absorb moistur , k eeps the in the e r dr e e . a e and e e air box xt m ly y Built b sk ts , oth r pi ec s made and

o e in s s e n in the nd e n st r d glas ca s for showi g shop wi ow , will r mai ﬁrm and retai n som e O f th eir fres h ness wh en small hard pieces of lim e are placed in the e n e e cas u d r cov r.

The e t on o f s e the n and i n the e and h pr para i ro s , shapi g curl g of p tals , t e buildi ng of the separate pieces togeth er a re almost the sam e for pulled 20 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

n e e e be e sugar as for marzipa paste. Th s flow rs may mad with three p etals e e e and ene e e en e e in or mor as r quir d , fast d tog th r wh shap d , or plac d posi n en e n the e Of e e e the tio wh hard , by r warmi g low r part ach p tal ov r spirit the en e the e e e the lamp . For c tr of ros , pull a pi c of sugar with thumb and e n e Of the n and e Off e n for fi g r right ha d , br ak this short without l avi g n he n a long sugar thread hangi g to it . With t fi gers of both hands shap e n in h n the e e n and e e. e t e e e and pi c rou d , with a thi dg Pr ss this c tr , fold ov er to bring the thin edges alm ost together to represent th e centre Of a n n n A n e ee e e rose just begi ni g to Ope . rra g thr small l av s or petals slightly

e n the and e e e en fiv e B d n high r tha bud , outsid of th s fast four or uil i g up ‘ S ug a r R ° e e s I oth ers as required . t is well to remember wh en making the h n en h roses to hav e t e sid es bulgi g . Fast t e lower parts of the p etals so as e th e e n n he As e f h to l av e e oth r dge sta di g out from t bud . ach O t e flowers e e n e e h n n e ee the e is pr par d , sta d th s alfway i to plai cutt rs to k p p tals from n e A fine e fe be e n falli g out of shap . f ct may produc d by worki g two r n colo ured pieces of sugar togeth er f o these flowers . By pulli g yellow t e e Of n one- the e e e and n n sugar wi h a pi c pi k third siz , a d licat atural bl e d

ing is made . As on the n and n the e e e e so as art of pulli g shapi g ﬂow r p tals is mast r d ,

e e n e e e e e e in e. e e e v ry littl k owl dg is r quir d to fix th s shap Wh r possibl , a e e be e o e e n e e e ' N a t ur a l F l o w e rs r al flow r should mpl y d as a patt r , mor sp cially a s M 0 d e 13 en n e o - e en e wh maki g flow rs with vari us colour d c tr s , such n he e n e e a d e . n n t o e e as orchids, lili s , oth rs Mou ti g flow rs pi c s of wir is

n e e en n e e . o e c ssary wh maki g floral vas s or bask ts With this acc mplish d , n h th ey may be arranged in any position by be ding t e wire . Prep ared pieces of wire covered with green paper or cloth may be procured for this r inar wr n e o d i e e e e p re p a rin g a nd purpos , or y will a sw r if it is cov r d with F h‘i h S te m g s ' I t n e e en n the een . e e e gr sugar is c ssary , wh fixi g flow rs, ith r e the e e Of e and en e n the o we to mak pi c wir hot th forc it i to fl r, or to mak e the hol e first and th en press in the wire covered with hot boiled

sugar .

TO e the o e e e f e e een e - e e are neces mak ﬂ w rs mor f ctiv , gr pull d sugar l av s

e e e e . be e n and be e e n e sary . Th s r quir to mad thi , may pr ss d upo shap s e e e e e e nn be Oh M o uld i n g mad e of lead or plast r . Wh r th s shap s ca ot L e av e e tained e th e e and e e on , shap pull d sugar, whil this is soft pr ss up the h th n e n the e n the e e en surface wit e ﬁ g r ail to form v i s of l av s . Wh n and e e e n e e the shapi g holly oth r l av s, it is c ssary to cut sugar with a pair h e of scissors to t e desired shap .

PULLED - SUGAR ARTI CLES AND BUI LT MERINGUES 2 1

CHAPTER VI II

P ULLE D - SUGAR A RTI CLE S AN D B UI LT ME R I NGUE S

n t n e and e n e e Co s ructi g bask ts oth r fa cy articl s with pull d sugar , as n on the e e - S G R G R C S show colour d plat , PULLED U A AND NOU AT C ENT E PIE E , n Of n e e e n ne e e are is a bra ch art gl ct d by most British co fectio rs . Th s e n Th the re e e f e e e . e een o n v ry f ctiv for tabl d coratio bright sh sugar, p

e ﬁne e e and e - n en par d with colours , looks d licat rich . Pull d sugar or am ts n look much neater tha those made wi th n ougat or marzipan paste . The wick er bask ets shown o n the plate are made by bending l engths n n w r e e e e a e e of pull d sugar rou d wood sk rs , which ﬁx d B uild in g o f S a B e eke t i f e ug r e upright in a th ck pi ece O board . To mak these bask ets an e e e ne e e e e nt of y shap r quir d , it is c ssary to hav small hol s drill d i o a thick piece Of wood cut to the shap e e e e d esired . Sp cial pr par d sugar n can be e on u sta ds mad , which p right sticks of sugar have been fas n As the e e te ed . form r m thod of preparing baskets with a wood e n h ff f he two e t e e O t fram is l ss di icult , i nstructions are giv en accordingly

(ﬁg . On e e — nd i P o B i i 4. Sta t e f r d n S a thick pi c of smooth board Fig. 9 w h gs u l g ugar B asket mark with a pencil the pattern in e and in an Odd n me e 1 . . e the quir d , drill u b r of small hol s apart Cov r e wt n n f e ne and in e the e O surfac i h a thi coati g vas li , ach of hol s I n s t ruct i o n s n f o r B a s et place a wood en sk e wer abo ut the thick ness Of a pe cil . Th ese k m a m k g ' should be quite rou nd (small p enhold ers sui t v ery w ell for this

f ewen e . e e and e be purpos , th y may bought for a p c ) With a soft brush cov r n th e e e ne . The e e e e e e e th s sticks with vas li fram is th r ady to r c iv sugar . As it n e e e the en e in n is c ssary to work clos to ov , fix a small tabl positio ; n as an n pull o ut pi eces Of sugar about 24 in . lo g as thick ordi ary l ead n n d h in e - n A n e a n t e . s o e e p cil , twist this rou d sticks as bask t maki g lay r Of sugar is placed above ano ther it should be gently pressed down with the n e e n n . e e en o e end in the e fi g rs Pr par a oth r l gth of sugar , warm flam s nd n n a n the . e e n n of a pirit lamp , twist rou d sticks Co ti u this Op ratio u til the e - n e e n 1 i the to . An t wick r work r ach s to withi . of p o h er m ethod e e not e fe t e the n the which is mor simpl , but so f c iv , is to twist sugar rou d e e n e a nd e an s a n Th . e e n sticks , whil it is b i g pull d shap d by a sist t Obj ctio to this plan is that the band of sugar has not tim e to set firm before the ne Th e n e in n xt layer is placed abov e it . fi ish d articl e co sequ ence has n n n e e e e . a clumsy , u v app ara c

S o e the - e ee and e n o en t en ugar b il d to hard crack d gr , pull d i t l g hs wh ne e e and e n n e en e n arly cold , r quir s quick car ful ha dli g to pr v t br aki g ; but 2 2 ORNAMENTAL CONFECTI ONERY

b e n e n this is the condition in which it should e pull d to Obtai p rfect ﬁ ish . en the o n n a re in s n and set F i ni s hi n g Wh r u d ba ds of sugar all po itio , h e B a eke t e t th en re mov e the Sticks ; gen tly raise th e bask et and place a i o n e on e e e . en n a silv r dish , or a pr par d b s of sugar Fast small sticks of

to e e e em e an d e the e n e sugar r plac thos r ov d , cov r bord r with a ba d of rop

n h e h a e o n on the e i t e . e t e n e shap d sugar, as sh w oval bask t plat Mak h dl s

t e e Of e and e e t e e e a nd n wi h pi c s twist d sugar, d corat wi h ﬂow rs , l av s , ribbo en e n h nd e o n h bows all made Of the sam e material . Wh pr pari g igh ha l s t e

a et e n e e e be e n e t n b sk s for xhibitio purpos s , th s may mad stro g r by wisti g f S e th e e e e o u n the n e e O e . t sugar rou d a pi c wir hap wir as r quir d , pull lo g n o h h e e Of and e e e t e e . ee e t e pi c s sugar, fold this v ly v r wir N dl ss to say , n in h n n wire must no t be see t e ﬁ ished ha dl e . On the top right corner Of the coloured plate a bask et is shown with

h n . o e e on ro w e e t e e n lid partly Op This c v r was mad a of sk w rs , sta d in upright ; the pi eces of pull ed sugar w ere twisted betw een B a s k e t wit h g L i d P a t e e . en n e e e e e e e r ly th s Wh fi ish d , th s w r r plac d with sticks of e n O p “ o e - e e e ene o n he e sugar with a r p shap d pi c fast d r u d t bord r . e e fl wers — o s e e an o d e . This bask t was fill d with sugar r s , fuchsias , viol ts , lili s

The o e hen e in o on and the - n o ne e e c v r was t plac d p siti , right ha d c r r d corat d with a large lily and l ea v es . Th e four - handled bask et shown on the plate was made by a diff eren t

h . e T e e 95 e . m ethod from that just d escribed . bas (ﬁg ) is pr par d as follows h _ A e e 1 0 in . e o n t e o p o ur h an d1e d wir fram , about squar , is laid slab ab ut B e eke t h - in . in e t e i . thick Fill with sugar boil d to hard crack e ee and en e f en n e o e e d gr , wh this has cool d sufici tly to ha dl , f ld ov r ach

co rner towards the centre . To ensure that these are the sam e e e o r e h ight, plac a small jar bottl n e ea o Of n u d r ch l op sugar, upo

which it may cool . Whil e th ese n e are e t n e e cor rs s t i g ﬁrm , pr par

— - n n 8» o 3 3 in . Fi . B F g 95 . ase of our handl ed B asket l g ba d of sugar, to s e a nd e in n n wid , shap positio rou d e e e . en set en in n a gr as d cak hoop or jar Wh this has ﬁrm , fast positio , as o n in the n t . S e n e o n th e sh w illustratio , wi h hot sugar hap two ha dl s slab, th e e en an d n the n the e both sam l gth width , by pulli g sugar rou d bas of on the n a jam jar slab . Faste one of the handl es to the base Of cl ear and th e o e in e e n n sugar , cut th r two pi c s with a hot k ife . Fix as show i n the n . e o e the n n illustratio D c rat ha dl es with v iol ets and l eaves . O e ne Of the e t e e are e The ach cor r bask t h r lilies and various coloured ros s . sugar base may be prepared wi thout a wire fram e by using glacé royal e th e e . en the e e o n the e net to mak shap P cil squar shap slab , ﬁll a pap r cor w n an , d e ne e h n en ith ici g pip four li s ov r t e pe cil marks . Wh this has

e in th e n in o n partly dri d , pour hot sugar . B efore shapi g p sitio it is ne e to e Off the e c ssary scrap dri d sugar icing . Th e n - a fa cy sh ped ﬂower pot shown o n the top l eft corner of the plate PULLED - SUGAR ARTI CLES AND BUI LT MERI NGUES 23

e e n e e e e e e e was pr par d by fixi g tog th r pi c s of pull d sugar . Four small pi c s e e ene e ne Of the e w r fast d at ach cor r bas , to which a thick F a n cy F 1°W e f p ° t e e e be ne squar pi c of sugar had to joi d . Small sugar l eav es e e e e e e e e e een e e and e w r us d to cov r up wh r ach pi c had b put tog th r, furth r Th n d ecorated with red roses . e c e tre was fill ed with spu n sugar aft er the e and e e een e in n flow rs l av s had b plac d positio . The sugar slipper shown o n the coloured plate is mad e by cutting the and e e e n in . 96 with sharp scissors various shap s r quir d , as show fig , joi ni ng the m togeth er with the small est possibl e quantity S uga r S lipp e r . The e - Of m elted sugar . pull d sugar body of the slipp er

not be e n e n . should thick , but pull d out as thi as possibl e without br aki g

Fro nt of Sl ipp er

B ottom of Slipper B ack of Slipper

—em ets f or Su a S i e 96. T pl g r l pp r

Take a piece of sugar and pull it to the size required for the sol e Of the e on e e e e e slipp r, lay this a gr as d t mpl t mad of cardboard , trim with a pair and n en en en e en ne e of scissors , , if co v i t, b d this ov r a wood last tur d upsid n n o n he m o i e e e and do wn a d press i p sitio . T st diff cult pi c to shap cut to he e n the n n Of the e . e t e patt r is fro t portio slipp r Whil sugar is pliabl ,

h e e th e and e e e e e . e e an d s ap this ov r last, r mov b for it s ts firm Pr par e the n e t e e the and n e e e ho shap x pi c for back , joi all tog th r with cl ar t ut and e e e e en the hee e t . C e th sugar fix a pi c of sugar to r pr s t l , d cora e n e and e on e e e on fro t with small flow rs , plac ith r sid a small bow of ribb be e e and e n n . e and sugar This slipp r may fill d with chocolat s oth r bo bo s, n used at a w edding lu ncheon as a table d eco ratio . When th ere is not time or opportu nity to prepar e pull ed - sugar orna

en e n e are e en e . e e e e o ne m ts, Built M ri gu s fr qu tly us d Th s w r at time wo n the n n e in e no e gr atly vogu , but , wi g to i troductio of oth r H o w t o nd a ea and e e n e e are n een o n K e e S t o c ki s of g t ux pi c s mo té s , th y o ly s p k me rm m s g ‘ n e e e en e o rare occasio s . Wi th littl troubl or xp s s m e varieti es be e e and e in e f o r n w may pr par d k pt stock r ady ﬁlli g ith cream or 24 SWEETS ANI) ENTREMETS

e be t e in - . e e e and e mix d fruits Th s should s or d air tight box s, , if possibl , in S e n a warm cupboard to keep dry . ev ral specime s of these m eringu es are n on h e f R G S e e show t e plat O BUILT M E IN UE . Th y w er prepared with a mixture of cold m eringue laid out in various shapes on greased paper and in n n dri ed a warm cupboard . They w ere th e faste ed togeth er with

e n e and n e n in th e ee e e m ri gu , ﬁ ish d , as show , form of b hiv s , bask ts , e & 0 box s , . To Obtain the correct shapes for building the pi eces Of m eringu e

H o wt p o e e the n e Of e be en e Off o n e e o re t g th r , outli ach should p cill d gr as d e t e S h a e e P p e be en e e the e the pap r, which may th cov r d with mixtur with and e bag tub . Th e body of the two beehives consists Of rings Of m eri ngue of the e e e e and e o e e t en e e e n e r quir d siz s dri d plac d t g th r, h cov r d with m ri gu d Th e e an e e . e e o t n B uil din g colour d y llow , furth r dri d d c ra io was fur B e e h iv e e nished with small marzipan ﬂow ers and l eav es mad e of the sam e O he n o n th e e e e e e in n e e . e mat rial t rs show plat w r also pr par d s ctio s, plac d ’ n together and pip ed with glace royal or m eri gu e. e n e e are e n h o e e M e ri n gu e M ri gu box s us ful for ﬁlli g wit choc lat s or oth r x B ° e e ° n n e e e e n e the bo bo s, ith r for tabl d coratio or for sal at Christmas season.

CHAPTER IX

MAR RON S GLACES A ND CARA ME L FR UI TS

e e n n e e n e n e e n Pr s rvi g marro s glacés (glaz d ch st uts) is v ry i t r sti g work ,

nd be e e e e e e e - e a may mad quit profitabl , sp cially wh r a high class trad is n The n e n e e in e a e ar e . e do marro s, b i g s rv d up pap r c s s, n G a c é s M arro s l . e en e e e e e e v ry Oft plac d with oth r pr s rv d fruits , chocolat s , d nn and n n n ffe e n e n an e t e . e e are fo da ts upo bu t, supp r, lu ch o , di r abl s Th s e o e the n e and the o en e e are e sold at a good pric v r cou t r, br k pi c s which mad during the preservi ng process may be used by the confectio ner for fla v our in e e e o n e e n g his ic s , cr ams , or p tits f urs glacés , or for maki g up s v ral ki ds E in th e e n e e fine e I n e n Of en e e . tr m ts arly s aso choos som larg talia ch st uts, n h n h an d remove the outer skin witho ut cutti g t e k er el . Cook t e nuts en in o n e n e e e e not be e g tly b ili g wat r u til th y b com soft, but th y must ov r n t b e n h n o e . e e and en . T e e cook d brok boili gs should larg Wh r ady, e o e th e fire Off the e and e e e r m v from , pour wat r , cov r th m with fr sh n e R e h e n n the n t n Off bo ili g wat r . move t e s co d ski from uts by lif i g it with be d ne e th e n are h o t n e . e n nn n a small k if This s co d ski i g must o whil uts , ' h n so that only a f ewn uts should be tak en from t e bo ili g water at once . Hav e ready a an Of hot syrup registering o n the sacchar D en s it y o f p S f o r h n yrup o m eter 1 6 d egrees, into which t e uts should be dropped . _ P re s em ng ' Place the bowl con taining the syrup and nuts ov er a steady fire and w n en n n the e e e e . , allo to simm r g tly for fift mi ut s Drop i to syrup BUILT MERINGUES

2 6 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

CA R AMEL OR ANGES

e e n n e e e all n and m l Tak som sou d ora g s , r mov ri d , tri with a smal s n e the nne n Of the e and not harp k if so that i r ski fruit is cl ar broken . S e e the n t te and e e o n a e e parat fruit i o quar rs , lay th s a p p r d P re p a ri n g O a n e s t f w e e e the r g ray to dry for a hours ; if r quir d , colour half c a ra m a t o ‘ oranges with carmi ne by rubbi ng this on w i th a cam el - hair

- brush . Fo r the caram el covering boil som e sugar to th e hard crack d e ee e e the e in the n e e gr , r mov this from stov , dip ora g s, lift th m out n a a n Th nd e o n e to o . e t with a dippi g fork , lay th m Oil d slab co l frui s n fi n n h hould o ly carry suf cient sugar to cov er th em . Wh e raisi g t e t the the o o r e e en e n frui from sugar, f rk , what v r ut sil is us d for dippi g , s no t be n e th e e e the an th e nn n Off hould draw ov r dg of p , as sugar ru i g n the an u h back i to p may ca se t e mass to grain.

PYR AMID or OR ANGES

A pyramid of o ranges o r any ki n d of mixed frui ts may be built up a rou n d a cone- shaped or Charlotte mould and just before servi ng up at t e e e e e in the n p yra m id o f abl should hav whipp d cr am ﬁll d ce tre . C a a m e O a n e s r l r g Th e fruits must all be clipped in caram el sugar and a e s et en ne et e the e n Of llow d to , th joi d tog h r with small st qua tity hot

. An e n e t C ro qu en bo u c h e sugar oth r am for this pyramid of , frui s is cro e f F r‘h t ' uenbouche and the e n the q of fruit , bas upo which fruit is built co nsists of chou paste dipped in sugar and covered with chopped be m e e e fe e n e pistachio n uts . This may ad mor f ctiv by placi g a vas of

s pun sugar on top. CARAMEL WALNUTS

e n e e e and Of e Tak e som e sh ell d wal uts p rf ctly fr sh good shape. Pr pare ee e e n e o ne e een n e n and no e thr pi c s of marzipa past , pal gr , a oth r pi k , a th r R l the te n n e th e . e C a ra m e l whit ol pas up i to small rou d shap s siz e of W h ’U t a s and e e e n n the n o e e us e e . a larg ch rry , th s for sa dwichi g uts t g th r the n in e and e e e Dip wal uts caram l sugar , if r quir d to mix with p tits the t e e e em in n n e e . fours glacés , or fo da ts for abl , s rv th up small pap r cas s

CA R AMEL P R ESE RVE D F R UITS

Th ese are preserv ed mixed fruits cut into small pieces and d ecorated

' e n e e o n i n the sha e o f e e with colour d marzipa past plac d p small l av s ,

n nd e n a e . & c . a k ots, , dipp d i to c ram l sugar

CA RAMEL PR UNES

Carefully remove the stones from a n umber of the prunes by c utting the t en o n one e and t e e e n frui op sid , ﬁll up wi h a pi c of whit , pi k , or

- S e the to e e e een n e . C a ra m el pal gr marzipa past lightly pr ss fruit g th r, P t u h e e e n the n e o n and all n l avi g part of marzipa past sh wi g , dip i to t e e caram el sugar . Th ese fruits also look attrac iv if ﬁll d with stiff apricot e e the e e e the ne has een jam , a littl of which is forc d out at sid wh r pru b MARRON S GLACES AND CARAMEL FRUITS 27

e are en e in e n h cut . Th y th roll d som e chop p ed almonds before cov ri g wit sugar . CAR AMEL ST R AWB E RR IES

o e e e e - e n t e e and e e Cho s som fr sh , w ll shap d , sou d s rawb rri s , cov r th m n o n e be ne e n and with a thi c ati g of caram l sugar, which may do cl a ly e n the een em th t w ll by holdi g gr st of e fruit wi h a pair C a ra m el

Wh e t t te s ° f n A te n S tt e O ippers . f r dippi g they are allo wed to cool on the The e o n n n marbl e slab . st ms sh uld o o account be removed wh en dippi g the e e the e n the S fruit , or ls juic comi g out will spoil sugar . mall short

e e ee - te e n e one past cas s , half or thr quar rs ﬁll d with plai cr am , with of e e t e e e in the en e e a n t e n e n th s s rawb rri s plac d c tr , mak at ractiv co f ctio , e o n h e n e which looks w ll a dis for tabl or cou t r.

CAR AMEL GR APES

Caram el grapes are coated with sugar in the sam e way as the straw n nd n in n e e . O e a o e e e e b rri s black whit grap , plac d a small ougat C a ra m el a e G r p s . s e e an e fe e n . ba k t , mak f ctiv co trast n o n o f n e e e o e For dippi g vari us ki ds fruit i to caram l sugar, sp cially th s are ne e n t e e e e e which dry , such as pru s , forc d wal u s , pr s rv d fruits d corat d 2 n in n te e e e 3 to 3 i . with marzipa pas , small pi c s of wir , 5 W ire s f o r D i i n F m it e" t be ke in n n e e k pp g en . e l g h , should pt stock Wh usi g th s , stic e e Of e n e e e Of and n e e are e a pi c wir i to ach pi c fruit, as soo as th s dipp d n the e e e e ne e n and the i to sugar , hav a wick r si v tur d upsid dow , stick n n h n h e e Of e o t e e t e e . pi c s wir all rou d this , all wi g fruit to ha g ov r sid s e not n e e e e in n e e This m thod o ly sav s tim , but is much b tt r ma y r sp cts n th n t e o n the n tha e m ethod of layi g h m slab as soo as F i n i s hi n g D e d F t tt tt e ff ipp ' e it e ne and e the . C ut o dipp d , as is cl a r sav s sugar what t e be n n the en lit l sugar may ha gi g to fruit with a pair of scissors , th pull

Off from the wire and place i n paper cases .

DISGUIS ED CH ES 'I‘ NUTS

Disguised chestnuts are mad e by pounding brok en pi eces of marron in o a en n h ﬁne e e e and glacé a m rt r , th passi g all throug a wir si v s a nd t e n e e n . mixi g with it som cr am , va illa ugar , a lit l kirsch D i s gui s e d C h e t h t This paste is th en shaped up into sm all pieces about the e U s n I n o he sam e size a n d shape as an ordinary ch est ut . t t back (or ﬂat e top) Of each pi ece stick a thi n wo od en sk w er . Boil up to the hard e ee e e to s e n ee ene o te o r crack d gr som caram l sugar, which om u sw t d choc la

e n has een e a nd e e n n t the caram l colouri g b add d , dip ach ch st ut i o sugar ,

e n o n the Of the n ut e n o e e . A te d n l avi g ly top past u c v r d f r ippi g, hold se veral o f the sk e wers in th e ha nd at o ne tim e with the n uts hangi ng dow n u ntil the sugar has set ; then th ey may be laid upon a marbl e slab ff the n e es Of n o . en set o be n to co l Wh , cut lo g pi c sugar which may ha gi g the n s o f e e e the s e ers the e e from poi t ach , r mov k w , ﬁll up hol s caus d by e e t e the es n t e and n n th s wi h som of ch t u cr am , ﬁ ish by dippi g this part 28 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

h nut e on e ar of t e past to som cocoa powder . These e serv ed in paper e cas s . CAR AME L CHE RR IES

e e e e are ene e in in Of n and Th s ch rri s g rally k pt stock jars bra dy , wh en required for dippi ng i nto caram el sugar they are laid on a cl ean and e i n m f w C ar a m e l B r a n d y cloth dri d a war cupboard for a e hours

C e e s“ h rri e e e n e e The be e i n the b for b i g cov r d . stalks must l ft E e S be e fruit . ach ch rry hould dipp d into the sugar so that all the fruit

e e t the e . AS e are e e on an e is cov r d wi h caram l th y dipp d , lay th m oil d and n the set as e e e in e e . slab, wh sugar has plac th m small pap r c s

CHAP TER X

FONDANTS CR EAMS CR STA LLI Z E FR I TS E TC. , , Y D U ,

I t is the usual practic e for most confectioners to buy factory - mad e ee e n n i n h e e sw ts such as crystalliz d fo da ts , fruits , marz pa s ap s , chocolat

—Mo ds f or Fondan a i Fi . t S es n Sta c g 98. ul h p r h

Th e f n e and e . e O e e n e cr ams , liqu ur drops Obj ct writi g th s ot s is to assist n e e e e o who ee n e e e . those f l i cli d to try to mak th s g ods for th ms lv s Others be e to f ewn wh o e do so alr ady may abl pick up a hi ts that will mak e th eir task easi er and more pro ﬁt

e abl . Fo r th e manufacture of high class crystallized fondants in small n wen a re f ewe quantities ut sils

n e . e e ec ssary Most of th s , such as copp er or enam el U t e n s il s f o r M a n e n n - e ki g sauc pa s , bai mari ,

e e a nd hair si v s , dip

n are i n u se. pi g forks, daily f S . 99 e o tarch trays (ﬁg ) mad _ HI d II 0 In — S OOth W O albO t 3 . i S F . 90. ta c a f or M din Fo ndants O , by g r h Tr y oul g

and 1 » i n ee be S e 5 . d p , should p iall d e in h c e an . t e y mad , provid d with blocks about 3 thick at bottom n e e e as ee and e e the en e are e cor rs , which s rv f t s parat trays wh th y pack d

on t e e e e en are : e e en n - e up up each o h r . Oth r r quir m ts s v ral doz fa cy shap d a e o n chalk moulds (fig . a p ir of b ll ws, a broad hair brush , crystallizi g nne and n n . e e pa s (fig with wir trays , a fu l stick for filli g purpos s O AN S REA S R S A I E R I S ETC . 29 F ND T , C M , C Y T LL Z D F U T ,

Fo r h e f m a be e . t e o n o n n e (ﬁg pr parati fo da ts , rubb r moulds y us d in e e en e t The e ar e ne are . e pr f r c to s arch trays form r much cl a r, but

—F n C a k Mo ds f or Fo dan 1 0. a c t C eam Fig. 0 y h l ul n r s

The n e xpensive wh en sev eral hav e to be purchased . ad vantage gai ed by th eir use in preference to starch for fondants is that no powder has to be se and the e e e the e and e t n u d , cr ams l av moulds cl ar r ady for crystalliza io o r n e e e e i n the droppi g , wh r as thos mould d starch n eed brushing and blowi ng wi th the bellows to remove any powd er adh ering to e are n to n t h em . Thos who a xious ma ufacture th ese goods apart from their ordinary work n e o ne e e n of ﬂour co f cti ry should , b sid s worki g h t s o e w t e t o ee with starch ray , pr cur or thr s h eets of rubber moulds for maki ng quickly n prepared fonda ts .

A e te n the e lthough a s para bra ch of trad , the preparation Of these sweets (bonbons ) is easily acco mplish ed by those who d esire to be i n the n n o n e fro t ra k am g thos p ro ﬁt abl e S e e t - m a n confectioners who hav e duri ng w ki g . h s t f ewe s n — t e la y ar fou d this work mos t ro ﬁt o Fo ndants p Fi l Ol . Fi in F unne f r g . ll g l e abl e . Form rly this w o rk was entirely in the n s who n n o n nen o n e e e o r n e ha ds of c ti tal c f ctio r , ow d ma ag d som e o f the As e e ten n best houses in this cou ntry . th r is a de cy o n the part Of the can fo e and t e n public who af rd to pay , to buy chocolat o h r co fectionery 30 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

e e o n the e e n n e ne k which is pr par d pr mis s , this bra ch of co f ctio ry wor d e n o n not be e o e an t e n . must ov rlo k d , is c rtai ly w r h l ar i g n n e e n are w e h Fo da ts pr par d for crystallizatio mad as follo s . Fill t e wooden trays with starch powd er which is quite dry and has been e e ﬁn e M aki n g o f pr viously sift d through a e si ve . Lev el with a smooth

F ° n d a ms ' o and the e n t s bar of wo d , mould impr ssio s wi h chalk mould

98 . E ene in o n n in . ne e in the fast d rows wood , as show ﬁg ach li mad e be e an n ne To starch powd r should at l ast half i ch from its ighbours . e en an the e e n e the e n n s pr v t y of shap s b i g spoil d , pr ssi g or mouldi g mu t be don e lightly ; otherwise extra pressure will cause the powder to blow e in e n n n in up . Plac a sauc pa som e fo da t which a little creamof tartar u d ' whil n een se e 1 . e e has b boili g , or with lb l ss glucos than is giv en for fondant used for cov eri ng purposes

I . and e see . e e e ( Vol , p boil d to a t mp ratur of ° ' h - 248 F . Make hot ov er t e ba i n m a me : colour and flavour as required ; reduce with stock syrup if too run the he ff . t sti to smoothly To fill moulds , warm nne and the ho t and e fu l fill with sugar, hold this ov r i n h the m o ulds n the starch . By slightly raisi g t e n the end the n . the e stick , of which fills poi t of ozzl suffici ent fondan t is allow ed to flo wout into each e en the n n e n cavity . To pr v t fo da t from s tti g firm

in th e nne be e e ho t. fu l , this should quickly us d whil en e n e n e e in Wh ach tray is ﬁ ish d , sta d th s a warm no t n o f w e (but hot) dryi g cupb ard for a hours . e n Cl ear syrup is r quired for crystallizi g . Boil sugar and water togeth er as for sto ck syrup (see V — l. I n . o . 1 te e m Fi , 1 2 Sac c a o ete s S yrup f o r , p usi g pt wa r to ach g 0 . h r r niZ i n C ’ S ta ° Y g n ee e the pou d of sugar . N dl ss to say, syrup for this purpose should be cl ean and free from sugar crystals after n he o e e 1 2 in h n n S t . 0 t e removi g the scum . ta d sacchar m t r (ﬁg ) boili g ° syrup ; wh en this registers a d ensity of 31 remov e the pan from the n the e e o f e t e o ut sto v e . O hot sugar lay a pi c pap r wi h a small hol cut the en e and e in the e n e e of c tr , plac a cool part of bak ry u til r quir d for the ne e no r h an use . e o n t e be Whil co li g syrup , ith r this p should dis n and turbed ; oth erwise the sugar will grai beco m e usel ess for crystallizi ng.

I t not ne e be e e o e n e is c ssary that this should quit cold b f r usi g , but cool d

en no t n e n a nd not en the n n . ough to grai whil usi g , so hot as to soft fo da ts

C R YSTALLIZ IN G FONDANTS

e e th e n n e n the s n ese To pr par fo da ts for cov ri g with yrup , tur th out w o he th Re e e t from e starch trays into a wire si e ve . mov all po d r fr m

" h ll ws and e t n o n t t e be o T h e C ry s t allizi n g cr ams by sif i g , bl wi g wi h , lightly

°f F ° n d a m ° s e e o e brushing with a soft hair brush . Pack th s cl s o in h e t and e e t e r n n see . e t g th r c ystallizi g pa s ( ﬁg cov r with a wir ray , O A S REA S R S A I E R I S ETC. 31 F ND NT , C M , C Y T LL Z D F U T ,

I f the and ffi ent e e n o . e e fi ish as foll ws syrup is r ady , cool d su ci ly, r mov the e e n and a n e e and pap r cov ri g y crystals which may hav form d , pour e nough over th e fondants in each tray to cov er th em co mpletely . What e ver utensil is used for transferring the syrup should not be drawn ov er n the side of the pa . The vibration set up by doing this is lik ely to cause to n a nd set in h n all ar e e e the t e an . e e syrup grai firm p Wh cov r d , stor a f o r ten t e e o in the e the a e and aw y to w lv h urs warm st part of b k ry,

w . e n an n e n n the c o e e v r ith a damp cloth To pr v t y da g r of grai i g syrup , it would be wi s e to p lace the trays befo re ﬁlli ng in the position wh ere are e n the t n ten the t hey to r mai for tim e stated . Wi hi hours syrup may be drain ed o ff by removi ng a small screwat the end of the crystal n Th n n lizin a . e en be en e on e e g p fo da ts may th tak out, plac d hair si v s, in e no t be en he a nd stored a warm cupboard . Th se should tak from t c n i e en e e e e e be upboard u til qu t dry , wh all ov r th ir surfac s th r should a cov ering of ﬁne bright sugar en e c rystals . Wh a sp cially thick c oating of th ese crystals is de s e it n e e s e e ir d , is c s ary to l av

th e fon dants longer in the syrup . With this preparatio n there need All be no waste of material . s ugar left in the pans sho uld be remov ed and made i nto stock S ru 11 0i) used n ) — sta izi n P an f or F nd ants y p but agai for Fig . 1 03 Cry ll g o

the purpo se of crystallizi ng . I t s the n nt n e en e is u ual to flavour fo da s with various ki ds of fruit ss c s, l e and n and the n n i n the s e iqu urs, va illa syrup , to colour fo da t fir t cas n with the col o urs usually associated with the distinctiv e flavours . Va illa n 1 syrup is prepared by soaki ng e ight or ten large va illa beans in qt . of hot the e be to . ee e e s ck syrup N dl ss , p rhaps , to say, bottl should F l a v o uri n g m ° f F °nd a 5 ° o and f w he be e to use . c e e e t rk d , aft r a days syrup will r ady Fla v our ing thus prepared is better than vanilla essence coloured with

c e e e it to be e e n n . A e the aram l , sp cially if is us d with whit fo da t ft r

ﬂa v ourin een e e the e n - e e be e g has b partly xtract d from b a s , th s may dri d and n e be e te n pou d d with lump sugar, to us d af rwards as va illa sugar f r e ﬂ urin e o oth r avo g purpos s .

C RYSTALLI Z ING P RUNES

e n e o en n e ne e Crystallized prunes mak a ic ass rtm t of co f ctio ry . Th y i i n n n e an a re attractive and useful for m x g with fo da ts . Pr pare d force

e ne n e e n and een see som pru s with marzipa past , whit , pi k , gr ( C ry s t alliz e d “ e in t n n P m fl e s ~ Cara m el Pru nes o n p . plac crys allizi g pa s w n o and cov er with syrup of Allo to r emai c vered for twelv e hours ; n n The n t hen fi nish as described f o r fo da ts . almo d (marzipan) paste u s ed e e s be e e for th s fruit should highly flavour d with liqu urs , such as kirsch , h m s n n . en t e n n e e ara chi o , oyau , or curacoa Wh cost of productio is co sid r d , 32 SWE ETS AND ENTREMETS the e e t e e are not e e in nn surpris is that mor of h s fruits pr par d this ma er. The crystallized prune or oth er fruit mixture may be placed in paper

’ e and e e e be e cas s , mix d with oth r fruits for tabl display ; or may display d o n e te and e te on n and e e silv r pla s xhibi d with f da ts mix d chocolat s .

MARZ I PAN SHAPE S

Marzipan shapes may be mad e in plaster moulds or shaped between n e r the ha ds . Two small us ful moulds for this purpose a e those for shapi ng an Th n n d . e n e n a M a rzip a n gree almo ds cockl es e form r co f ctio s re prepared S a e s h p fla v o urin n e and n - fl wr by g marzipa past with kirsch ora ge o e n “ Th e and e o n een . e e nne o ut wat r, colouri g with Br t gr past is pi d to nd the e e n m e e m in a e . n i . thick , r quir d u b r of pi c s cut out with a g plai Th e e are en e e an n n e . e e e a e en cutt r pi c s th cov r d with i v rt d p , to pr v t n Th e e he them from dryi g. two halv s of t plaster mould a re dust ed the n n with corn flour. Two of small rou ds of paste are pressed o e i nto ’ he e - w n d e t . et o e e e an ach half of mould With a cam l s hair brush pi c ,

n n e n and o e th two e o f lay o this a small bla ch d almo d alm st clos e sid s en the are ene the e the o n th e plaster mould . Wh moulds op d shap of alm d be e e e e te be e t the will compl t ; both pi c s of pas will almost clos d , wi h n e een e e n e e e e blanch ed nut showi g b tw . Littl practic is c ssary to pr par t ese and th e e the e e e e are h goods, , with past cut to siz r quir d , th y quickly Ano e e e e e e be e e n made. th r m thod wh r by th s may pr par d without usi g a mould is to roll th e paste betw een th e hands to resembl e as n early as h n e n t e een the possibl e that of t e almo d . Whil holdi g his b tw thumb and o e n e e an n n o n the en e and e in f r fi g r , mak i cisio al g c tr , pr ss a split or d e n e on . e e e e an whol bla ch d alm d To crystalliz th s , cov r with syrup n n finish as for fo da ts . The Th e oth er mould referred to is f o r preparing small cockl es . m arzipan paste for this purpose should be flav o ured with e S m all C o c kl s . n t n e w e e e and e e a d ros wat r ora g z s , colour d ith y llow n I t nne o ut e ne e and e o ut Breto paste . is pi d as xplai d abov stamp d in the e th e e e e . e siz r quir d Fill ach half of mould , brush ov r with syrup e e and n e e een or wat r, add a small bright ch rry , fi ish as d scrib d for gr

e e n e n en be e t n . almonds . Th s small co f ctio s will th r ady for crys allizi g With a vari ety of moulds many fancy shap es may be prepared in the

me nne and e e e . sa ma r, crystalliz d with syrup as d scrib d

CENTR E S FOR CHOCOLATES

C en tres for cov ering with cho colate co v erture are mad e of so ft r a re and hard material . Som e of those that a e most popular o a t C h c o l e s . w - ﬂav ou r d n n o ne n e e e e pr par d ith rich fo da t us d al , or alo g with e O e n o f t crush d caram el nougat or chopp ed mix ed fruit . th r ki ds sof en e are e n e e no n e c tr s mad with marzipa past , fruit j lly , or ugat mo t limar, nd a vario us pastes mad e with r oasted almonds o r haz el n uts . B efo re d escribing th e m ethod of preparing th ese cen tres som e instruc n i s ne e h n e tio c ssary as to t e ma ner of using the covering chocolat . This

3 4 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS lized e e e are e n the n b ros l av s , som i dicators of ki d which may e used for e A e en e e e nne this purpos . s som c tr s r quir a thi r coating of chocolate than e in the n I 2 e . e . e oth rs , cocoa butt r, proportio of t oz of butt r to lb of chocolat , should be used for mixing wi th the coverture When it is poss ibl e to m elt the chocolate gradually in a warm dry e e e n e e e t n n en D an ge r o f cupboard , th r is l ss da g r of ov rh a i g tha wh it

’ O e e at n v rh i g e e e the ba i n - m a r te and e e n is plac d dir ctly ov r , ov rh ati g is n n probably the commo est cause of faulty ﬁ ish .

° Nou a t Cr ea m s e on the . n e For g , w igh slab lb of marzipa past add

e n 8 . e e n e a littl ici g sugar, oz of crush d caram l ougat ; mak N o ug a t C re am s . n f nd e in a e e . A all i to a stif dough , shap small pi c s llow f e w and en An e e e e . t e th s to dry for a hours , th cov r with chocolat o h r ki nd of nougat cream is made by passing hard nougat between granite l e n e e en ﬂa v o urin n and n ro l rs u til it b com s soft, th g it with va illa , mouldi g e e be e and e i in o e . e e n e vari us shap s Th s pi c s should mad small , roll d crush d n e e ﬁne e e e en and ougat pr viously pass d through a wir si v , th put to dry afterwards coated with chocolate. H a rd Nou a t Cen tr es e e n e n For g , pr par a mixi g of caram l ougat and e n e the eas e H ard N o u a t (Chap . V , p . whil hot tra sf r to gr d slab . ~g C e nt re s R in on e e and n e e e oll out l g pi c s , with a sharp k if cut th s in h nne and e n h n n e . e t e o t e e e i to small shap s Cov r usual ma r, plac c tr of the top of each sweet som e roasted almonds . P ra li n ée Centr es for chocolate covering are prepared much in the R 1 e n . e n sam way as caram el ougat . oast lb of cl a P ralinée C e ntres . R u o n s n n e n . b e e e e e e u bla ch d almo ds th s a coar wir si v , h 1 2 . e e aster e t e an on the and mix with oz of m lt d c sugar. Plac p w n n n n e and t o e . e ee e e n e en t , s ov add va illa b a s Co ti u to , k p th s i gr di ts

n he - n o th e t . n on e mix d , u til sugar is of a dark brow col ur Tur out and en e een the n te e o n slab , wh cold , crush b tw gra i roll rs , or p u d with

e e and e e e and use n a p stl mortar ; pass all through a coars si v , for mixi g n n n with marzipa or fo da t . r s r n e n w e e Fr u i t Cen t a e frequ e tly us d for cov eri g ith chocolate . Th se

b n e n n Pr may e mix ed with oth er i gr di e ts or used alo e . e F t C en t e s . rui r ' served ginger is cut i nto small squares and dri ed be fo re o e t in ‘ cov ering with ch colat . Tha bought jars is best for this purpose . Th e syrup with which it has been preserved may be used for maki ng ginger fon dant creams . Among the many varieties of soft and hard centres prepared for these e e e t e e e chocolat s, thos mad wi h liqu urs occupy a pr mi r L iqu e ur C e nt re s . n the en e e e e e positio . With liquid c tr th y r quir v ry n n to the t e e e be e e . car ful ha dli g. Th s may pr par d as follows Boil sof e h an e ball d egr e t e quantiti es of sugar d water required . No cr am of e b e h e and e e . R e e t e tartar or glucos should add d mov from stov , whil n the ﬂa v o urin e en e and the ho t o e e e addi g g ss c , mix this syrup t g th r whil . n the an no en be u e n shaki g p ; but ut sil should s d for stirri g, as this e in the r n n e a nd o may r sult sugar g ai i g. Cov r with a damp cloth all w A TH REE-T IER WEDDlNG C AKE

JELLIES 35

to lie for ﬁfteen to twenty mi nutes ; th en ﬁll into shap es moulded in

starch powder. Cov er wi th a thi n coating of starch sifted through a

e e and e in n - Th o en . e hair si v , plac a dryi g cupb ard for tw ty four hours funnel and stick already d escribed is the best impl em ent for ﬁlling the t t th An s arch moulds wi h e syrup . y crystals that may hav e form ed on the syrup whil e cooling should be remov ed without disturbing the n n sugar more tha is ecessary . e n e e o t en e e e h be e For cov ri g th s s f c tr s with chocolat , th y s ould quit ee an o f the the fr from y starch from moulds . This p r e p ara t io n o f S o ft e n c e n t re s f O’ may be remov ed by car ful sifti g . The soft hair

be e e n t h brush should also us d for this cl a sing . Cov er wi h t e chocolate and ﬁnish as required .

CHAPTER XI

JE LLI E S

’ Form erly calv es feet w ere alone used in high - class shops for the I n preparation of sw eet j elly . som e establishm ents this was sold in

’ and e e e . e e e - jars , r tail d at high pric s B sid s its valu as a food C a lv e s F o o t n “ n the e n n e e e Je ) for i valids, pr paratio , sold at a fa cy pric , yi ld d n can n owbe ne far m o re proﬁt tha obtai d from that prepared with t in its n v an e ne. e e e e d e e g lati Custom rs had gr a faith utritiv alu , w r ’ prepared to pay high prices for the calves - foot j elly mad e by conf ec w - r The e n no e e e in tione s . pr paratio is mor or l ss factory mad , put glass ’ in e t e and . bot l s, sold most groc rs shops ’ e e the en ne e e the e e n e e To pr par g ui j lly , tak r quir d umb r of calv s

ee e n e e n n e e n - f t, cl a s by car ful washi g, joi t th m , plac all i to a stock pot,

e te and n the . A m cov r with cold wa r, bri g to boil thick scu P r ep a ra ti o n ’ e the e be e e n o f C a e s will ris to surfac , which may r mov d with a spoo , lv m o t -f en)" e e n the n and or, b tt r still , by throwi g away boili g liquor

' at the e e Th coveri ng the feet with fresh water sam t mperature. e stock e the e the e ten e e and should simm r at sid of stov for to tw lv hours , n e e and e se should th en be strai ed through a hair si v allow d to t ﬁrm .

- the n e 5 . e t w ee e e eet Thr m dium siz f should mak qt of stock , str g h of hich may be ascertained by cooling som e of this in a small mould pl aced o n fir e e ice before the whol e is removed from the e. Wh r this does not set n n I t the n . firm , add to boili g stock a small qua tity of isi glass is e en e the e set in e e ss tial to hav cl ar stock a firm j lly , which will p rmit of the oil being wash ed off with hot water ; also to mak e allowance for h n e en e n e ne r t e n e . additio of oth r i gr di ts , such as l mo juic , wi s , or spi its e e ee e the e e the the e To pr par sw t j lly from stock , r mov oil from surfac

e and en en e . n e with hot wat r , th with kitch pap r Tra sf r to R e c ip e f o r n e an e e e the o e e e S w eet JellY a oth r p k pt xpr ssly for purp s , plac ov r a

ﬁre and e . 5 . c the e slow , dissolv gradually To qt of sto k add z st of 36 S EE S AND . E RE E S W T , NT M T

5 e n the e 1 0 2 . 5 e e 1 2 e l mo s , juic of , lb of lump sugar, bay l av s , clov s , 1 0 e and e e e e nn n and e e whit s sh lls of ggs , a pi c of stick ci amo , a littl crush d n o to the en e e n e ee . the e the coria d r s d Bri g sl wly boil , th r mov to sid of and l e n ten n e e e . e e stov , cov r with a cloth , al ow to r mai for mi ut s Pr par

the e - e n e e n an and e n e j lly bag, plac u d r this a cl a , hav a oth r S t r a in i n g p t o a in h and in e nes . t e e n n the an hr ugh r adi s Pour j lly , as it ru s i to p ,

' Je lly b a g ' n the n n pour back i to bag u til it ru s through quite cl ear . Close 1 05 ee the and in h a the o . t e e n cupb ard (ﬁg ) to k p liquor warm , cours of e e The ne ess ne o r s hour o r so all will hav pass d through . c ary wi pirits may then be add ed to the j elly if it is quite cl ear ; or i t may be poured h is h i n to th e bag before t e j elly has all passed through . This t e stock e set e te j lly , which will mod ra ly firm . I n most catering houses sto ck j elly is k ept ready- mad e for moulding in various shap es o re and forms . This is m stly p pared withisi nglass U s e o f s n a s s o r n en I i gl or gelati e . Wh G e l a t i n e ' isi nglass is to o ex en e s o e e p siv for thi purp s , g la ne e and ti , which is solubl

te e be e tas l ss , may us d without spo ili ng the d elicate ﬂavour of he e are e the j elly . T r som vari eti es sold at abo ut per n e e er s pou d , which giv v y atis n e t factio . Mad with this quali y , Fi 1 05 —Je11 Cupbo a d the j elly has th e soft v elvety g y r feeli ng to the palate which n e t ne e not o btain ed by using ch eap inferior gelati e . This g la i is also abl to stan d the acidity o f the l emons and the addition of wi ne and spirit The n e e l e witho ut losi ng its gelatinous pro p erti es . followi g r cip wil mak

e ' about 1 2 qt . of j lly

sh e de e at ne. 2 lb. r d d g l i R e c e f o r S t o c wat r t e . ip k 1 1 q . m G e a t n e Jelly fro l i . m su ar. 5 1h. lu p g s 1 2 bay l eave .

2 4 clo ves .

z co an er seeds . 1 3; o . ri d

w h s . 2 2 wh t es t s e i , i h ll Jui ce of 2 2 l emo ns

Z est o f 1 1 l emons.

- 4 in st cks c nnamo n. 3 . i i

ra nd . 1 pt . b y

sherrv . pt . JELLIES 37

h e n k in n - he e n e Place t e g lati e to soa o e third of the water . Pour t r mai d r of the water i n to the j elly - pan ; mix in the whites and s hells pre viously beaten ; h e n e en e e h n a nd n S t n t e t e e e e . also oth r i gr di ts , xc pt wi g lati a d M e t h o d o f C a f w l r‘ y i“g ° o e o ﬁre s o e t e and en h o t st in the v r a sl , whi k all t g h r, wh ir ne and the e n e h At t e he gelati r mai d r of t e water . his stag t who l e should be e t the n o m e t he o e n e o e the mix d wi h whisk u til it c s to b il , th r m v d to

e the t e . e o e and o to e n teen n e en sid of s ov Cov r v r all w r mai for ﬁf mi ut s , th

h ne a nd ts and t a add t e wi spiri ﬁl er through the b g . This j elly will form the n t n n e e the o n n e n e . fou da io for ma y vari ti s . as f llowi g ot s will i dicat o e e e are o en e s i n e So e o n o f M uld d j lli s alm st dl s vari ty . m c sist fruit t e e o r a nd e e t e e . To e n j lly mix d og th r, wi h whipp d cr am pr pare macédoi e

e e ee o o . e the n t e e j lli s proc d as f ll ws Tak qua ity of j lly r quired M a c éd o i ne m r o e and ss e i n e n a Ad Je e s ~ f o n . d e this purp s , di olv half a cl a a littl p _ no and ffi en i n the e the o maraschi to flavour, pour su ci t mould to cov r bott m . St n the in ice e a nd en the e in a d mould wat r , wh j lly is firm drop two or

ee e e e . Cut e e es o the e thr pi c s of fr sh fruits som pi c fr m firm stock j lly, h and the n t e n 9 in . the to lay part upo fruit , fill mould to withi 2 of p with f s et e and e e n te e o . en alt r a lay rs liquid , j lly , mix d fruits Wh M e th o d o f F n M I set th e e e the illi g O U d S all has firm , fill mould with liquid j lly to giv n e fi nish ed articl e a smoo th appeara ce . This m thod of addi ng pi eces of e ent the o m e n n i n e w e firm j lly pr v s fruit fr r mai i g lay rs , hich spoil its The e o be o e r t ene . a e in e o n at ractiv ss fruits us d sh uld th s that s as , or, if e e are e en e e e e e e and een th s too xp siv , pi c s of pr s rv d apricots gr gages may

f w e e e . be e e e e add d , with a bright pr s rv d ch rri s

n e e ee f o r ne e e . The For spri g j lli s , proc d as macédoi j lli s fruit should ns o f e e n e n ts e n s re co ist mix d grap s , bla ch d wal u , haz l ut , p P rin t a ni ere o r n n e o e t S pri n g e lli e s e e e e a d e no . J s rv d ch rri s , pi appl , ﬂav ur d wi h maraschi

es t e re ne e e e is n e an Fr h frui , pr pa d for pi appl j lli s , cut i to small squar s d o o n n e es n boil ed i n w eak stock syrup . This c ki g is c sary o acco unt of the w e o n ne in the t the e in acid c tai d frui , hich , if mix d with j lly p i ne a ppl e e n t n e en the e e n J€ 11i °S ~ its fr sh co di io , would pr v t j lly from s tti g ﬁrm . The s be ne and e t e f e n fruit hould drai d dri d with a clo h b or usi g . Flavour

the j elly with chartreuse a nd d ecorate with gold leaf. Fo r - e e e e e the the t e e gold l af j lli s , d corat top of moulds with a lit l cl ar . e and ee e e es e e e t n e j lly thr pi c s of fr h or pr s rv d frui s of disti ctiv colours . s e the e n e the e ne es n and Dis olv r mai d r of j lly c sary for filli g , G o ] d _ L e a f

en in f ewe es e be n elli e s wh cold mix a pi c of gold l af (to obtai ed in J s I f e e e o f e e t small book ) . th es pi c s gold l af mix r adily wi h the j elly and do

no t n to the o t the an n e o n e the set in si k b t om of p , tra sf r at c to moulds ice . Marbl ed j elli es consist o f cl ear j elly ﬁll ed in with M a e d e e rbl J lli s . n alternate pi eces of white a nd pi k whipped j elly . To be e the e n o f s e en e en succ ssful with pr paratio thi b at j lly, all ut sils should be r e the e n a n an free f om greas e . Plac liquid j lly i to a p d W e ell ' hipp d j y . e s n en to n e b at with a whi k u til it thick s a foam , tra sf r part to n e e e o o ne and set h a oth r v ss l , c l ur with carmi , allow both to ﬁrm . T e

be ten . j elly. should no t be a hot 38 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

e n e the e e and f ew To mak s ow j lly, top mould with cl ar j lly a pieces n of silver l eaf . Whip som e bra dy j elly to a foam and add a little m elted

o r e t ne. As n n e n ead N eig e g la i soo as it shows sig s of b i g r y, pour at S W W e J lly n e n h Th o c i to t e mould . e whipped j elly should be beaten fairly f and et n s en t r stif , y of such co si t cy as will allow his to un freely in the I f e . n the mould this is add d warm , part will si k to bottom of the mould and e e e e o n l av a us l ss froth top . A t n e e are e e A u t u m n u um j lli s ﬂavour d with curacoa, colour d with e e s J lli " ne and e e -h e n e e carmi , d corat d wit s aso abl mix d fruits . Tricolour or R uban i j ellies are prepared with cl ear j elly ﬂavoured with

e and e e e red e and e - een n n sh rry , mould d with pi c s of , whit , pal gr bla cma ge. Set in w an e te n n e re T ri c o l o ur a shallo mould or p som whi bla cma g p o r R an e e n n e e nn n ub i par d with milk, cr am , grou d almo ds , bay l av s, ci amo , t e s ' nd n e a e e e e ne. i a littl sugar, sufﬁci t m lt d g lati Place on ce to set n e e n and en e on ﬁrm , add a oth r lay r of pi k , wh r ady pour anoth er “

n e een e on e . en e e e mixi g, colour d with gr Br t past Wh th s hav set firm n n n and use n tur out upo a dish , cut i to small strips, for filli g in the and e e e mould with liquid pi c s of firm j lly .

en ne e e e e e - e e e n n For Val ti j lli s, pr par small h art shap d pi c s of bla cma ge,

e e - e u V al ent i ne stamp d out with a h art shap d cutter . C t small pi eces of

Jelli e s ' n e e e en the e one e e a g lica to r pr s t darts , plac through ach pi ce of n n e and in the and e e set bla cma g , ﬁll to mould with liquid pi c s of j elly .

e ne e e e e e e e an To mak champag j lli s, ﬂavour som cl ar j lly with chartr us d n in e e e e e en e maraschi o . Mix som pi c s of silv r l af brok v ry small ; with this

ee - e e ne e and n i n ice C h a m p a gn e thr quart rs ﬁll som champag glass s , sta d to 11 6 3 5 . n e n the u e e J set . Fi ish by cov ri g s rfac of ach with a thin layer of he e e e e en t . e e e e are t and n whipp d j lly to r pr s t froth Th s j lli s at ractive ovel . e n e e e e an e en n e o e e For harl qui j lli s, pr par v umb r of dari l moulds ; divid nd n in i e e n s t e r d n a c . o e e e e i to four lots , sta d wat r Fill with cl ar j lly , n e t e e the t e s H a rl e qui n a oth r wi h whipp d j lly, third wi h chopp d pi tachio Jelli e s e e and e e n n e - e el mix d with j lly, thos r mai i g with silv r l af j ly .

' u h t n e n e n en en o o . Wh firm g ha dl , tur ach out upo a cloth With a small n e e n in e out e n e and k if dipp d occasio ally hot wat r ach i to four quart rs , Th i e n the o . e e e ei n r tur to m ulds as follows wh pp d j lly, b g M e t h o d o f O F n th e e i be e i n th e w t o illi g v ry l ght , should plac d mould first ; add M ix e d Jelli e s ’ e e e e and e e e n the e e i n oth r colour d pi c s, b for pr ssi g last pi c ul b n e n f position this sho d e dipped i to liquid j lly . Withi a ewmom ents urnin o u h th ese W i ll be ready for t g t of t e moulds . d n n e e are e an e t e. Pu ch j lli s flavour d with rum , colour d wi h carmi Top the t e set in ea e and e moulds wi h mix d fruits cl r j lly, cov r P u n c h Jelli e s . Th e n in be with a thin layer of whipped j elly . filli g must h carefully done ; oth erwise the whipped j elly will rise to t e surface. e e are e n e red Noyau j lli s flavour d with oyau , colour d , e e N o y au J lli s . and moulded . n e e ne - e e c M ara s ch ino For maraschi oj lli s, add half a wi glass of liqu ur to a h

Jellies . ne and in e e . quart mould , colour with carmi , ﬁll d corat d moulds

40 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

CHAPTER XII

C H ARTR E USE S OF FR UI TS

e e are e w t e e e and Chartr us s of fruits mad i h j lly , whipp d cr am , various

. e e are e in e n e and e e e C h a rtr e u s e s fruits Th s attractiv app ara c , r quir mor f F t s ° rui e in n t n n car mouldi g ha plai j ellies . Before givi ng directions f o r their preparation it is necessary to refer to the liquid or m elted gelati ne which will be used f o r setting th e whipped I n n n e . e o e e in t e cr am cat ri g h us s this is k pt s ock , mad e f o r J lly A ma y W e t e n e n e a nd e e o ff re hipp d wi h a d ﬁ it qua tity of wat r , m asur d as C e a m r . n - quired . By usi g a small g gill ladl e for this purpose the con f ec tioner will know from e xp eri ence th e correct quantity required to set h n s n t e cream with o ut maki g it tiff . Place i to a ti nn ed copper saucepan

e e e e t ne o e e a nd t n f o r som shr dd d g la i , c v r with cold wat r , s a d away two I n t e the e ne h s . e o e h hours that im g lati will av ab rb d most of t e water .

n off an t e een n e a nd e t th e e ne e Drai y hat may hav b u us d , m l g lati ov r a ﬁr o e n n h slow e . Pr vid d that a fair qua tity of water was add ed i t e ﬁrst e o e e be s n ten as e plac , this diss lv d mixtur will of uch co sis cy will mix r adily A n wi th th e whipp ed cream . s this m elted gelati e is useful to the con f ection er e o e in n n n e t ner e for oth r purp s s maki g fa cy co f c io y , it is advisabl i e to k eep it thus prepared n sto ck . Waste is som tim es caused by dissolving n f 1 . o e ne n e I t e to oz or a l ess qua tity g lati for setti g cr ams . is impossibl e e e a n e the ne e n work succ ssfully with th s sm ll qua titi s , as c ssary qua tity of gelati ne required to set plain creams vari es accordi ng to th e acidity o f fruit

v in juices used for ﬂa o ur g . Fo r e e o f n n see e E R M S set in the to chartr us ba a as ( Plat , COLD NT E ET ) , p of

n - s n e o e o n a charl o tte or fa cy hap ed mould a thi layer o f j elly . Tak s m s u d n n e e the n the in n e e C h a rt r e u s e ba a as , r mov ri d , cut fruit small rou d pi c s f B n a n a O a s k n n n lo h hi a d e c t . t e in . t c e o e i , lay th m a cl a Wi h a sk w r t r n se n m e dipped i n liquid carmine mak e three do s of ed o each . U a u b r h h o and s t t o f e e e e e t e t e e e . th s cut pi c s to cov r top of m uld , ﬁrm wi h j lly Tak e a plai n cutter (a tin with the bo ttom re mo v ed will answer the in n the o e and n e 1 in . e e e purpos ) l ss diam t r tha charl tt mould , sta d this the o en e een th e o and the uprigh t o n the set j elly . Fill p space b tw m uld n n To en e e e se t ﬁrm cutter with layers of ba ana a d liquid j elly . abl th s to

th e e e be . quickly , j lly us d should cold the n o f e e re e th e n s . e P par ﬁlli g as follow Whisk up qua tity cr am r quir d , nan l e o n the o e e ﬂavour with ba a pu p mad by f rci g fruit thr ugh a hair si v , and eeten to e tt e e o n e and s in sw tast ; add a li l l m juic , whi k a small P re p ar i n g W e d ne R e o e th e t er o r n hipp portion of th e m el ted gelati . m v cu t by p u i g C a r e m . m e r e n o t en rn th e o s e n so wa m wat r i t his ; th tu m uld up id dow , and h e in t the e r d re n t e . pull out g a ually without b aki g j lly Fill wi h cr am , a nd in r f r e n The e o r o e a sho t tim e this will be ready o s rvi g. charlott th r moulds may be lined with fruit and j elly without using th e cutter or tin CHARLOTTES AND MOULDED CREAMS 41

the e ar en e n e e ne e n . he e c tr , but lo g r tim is c ssary for pr paratio T moulds e o n e ice t n plac d crush d , wi h a small qua tity of liquid A no th e r M e t h o d e and n an ne n th e e e n set o f L n n M o s j lly , co st tly tur d u til j lly b gi s to , i i g uld

w‘ h F rm t ' t en e e are e nt the o e e wh pi c s of fruit add d u il m uld is cov r d . en n nne e e e Wh usi g ti d fruits for this purpos , such as p ach s, apricots , or ne e e e o be the in pi appl s , th s sh uld brought to boil hot syrup _ S p e c i al p re “ n t o th n c a t o n s t and ne e e . e e n t e drai d b for usi g This d s r ys ti y ast , u i wi h t T i n ne d F rm s ’ and e e o e the the n n r mov s s m of acid which fruit co tai s. The following is a list of chartreu ses of various fruits which may be prepared in the manner described abov e :

hartreuse of st ra er es C wb ri . artreuse of a r co ts t Ch p i . L i s o f F rui t

C a t e s e s ‘ hartre se of eac es h r r u C u p h . ha s f C rtreu e o grapes . artreuse o f oran es Ch g . artreuse f ta n r n Ch o ge i es . hartreuse o f nea C pi pple. rtr use er Cha e of ch ries.

CHAPTER XII I

CHARLOTTE S A ND MOUL DE D CRE AM S

e e R n e see te E R M S To pr par a ussia charlott ( Pla , COLD NT E ET , No . e the n te e e and e cov r bottom of a plai charlot mould with cl ar j lly , d corate n s t n e e e e e . e se e with pi c s of pr s rv d fruit Wh thi has , li R s s a n C a o tt u i h rl e . the sid es of the mould with ﬁ nger biscuits slightly

r e e e e . e e o e e e ee en t imm d to fit clos ly tog th r Pr par s m whipp d cr am , sw t as e and n t en tt e e e e ne a nd to t t , flavour with va illa ; h add a li l m lt d g lati , n he a e an n e el ne ufli i pour i to t prep r d m o uld . Half ou c of g ati will be s c ent

to set three gills of cream . ene n e n en the an e o For V tia charlott , or am t bottom of oval charlott m uld

with a layer o f cl ear and one of whipp ed white j elly . Line th e mould with e es o f ate e i n n e and o e pi c g au past cut ﬁ g rs , c lour d Ve ne t an C a o tt i h rl e . A n e e w. e n e n o o a e a nd e o e alt r at ly pi k , ch c l t , y ll rra g th s so t e e e e th e ne a s o n o n the e tha ach pi c ov rlaps xt , sh w Plat COLD E R M S i n t ee ers e — one o e o ne NT E ET . Fill wi h thr lay of cr am choc lat , The o o e e a nd e e and one n . be strawb rry , va illa ch c lat cr am cak should e e te n ee ene o o s o be s o e i n ﬂavour d with m l d u sw t d c c a , which h uld di s lv d hot

and t e n o e e o e s n . milk , h co l d b f r u i g wo k e o e o lo nials t t ee n o f a e Pr pare Charl tt C wi h or thr i ds g t au paste .

in t e re ea m o e n Fill wi h pr pa d cr ﬂav ur d with va illa , C a o tte C o o n a e h rl l i l . - s a nd e e o f o n . kir ch , small pi c s marl glacé r E e to n n e en Fo Charlo tte co ssais p a plai mould with pi k j lly . Wh this V 1 1 OL. . 66 42 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

t e e e te e e e n se et . is , d corat with whipp d whi j lly forc d out with a pap r cor

the n n m e n e ice o ne - For li i g tri som fi g r biscuits , third C h arl o t te E c o s s ai s e . t e e n n e n and the wi h chocolat wat r ici g , a oth r with pi k , h e n e e . en t e n s et n e the t r mai d r with whit Wh ici g has firm , arra g biscui s t e n in th l in e t wi h alt r ate colours e mould . Fil with cr am flavoured wi h e e nd n ros wat r a maraschi o . n w e e t o e e ate e For Charlotte Norma de pr par pi c s of g au past (No .

i n . S i n n h n in . n o e e r 4 square a d 4 thick . plit two ; sa dwic pi ce with ed n e the e t o e curra t j lly , oth r wi h apricot pulp col ur d C a o t t e o m an e h rl N r d . n en t with green Breto paste . Th wi h a sharp k nife

e e e n n in e e e e cut ach pi c i to ﬁ gers about i . thick . Hav r ady a pr par d o a nd n h the be n e e n e t e e te . m uld , li this with cak , colours to arra g d alt r a ly the e n e e e the e ne and Whip up cr am c ssary, ﬂavour with sh rry, add g lati , n the pour i to mould . Charlo tte mignons are prepared in dari o l e moulds lined with pi eces of

ate . te n e red and een g au pas , sa dwich d with gr apricot C a o tt e M n h rl ig o n s . n o n the e E R M S pulp or jam , as show Plat , COLD NT E ET ,

5 . Th . e n n e e n No filli g co sists of whipp d cr am flavoure d with pi eappl e. n e e e e be e e in e e By usi g fruit juic s , th s charlott s may pr par d larg vari ty . As the e the e as e o e be e e m thod is practically sam stat d ab v , it would r p ti n e r e e e . e e a e e e F ru i t j uic e s tio to d al with ach s parat ly Th r , how v r , two f °f F la v wrin g essentials which should be carefully noted when fla v o uring Th creams with fresh or bottl ed fru its . e flavour is improved by the addition to the cream of a little lem o n juice or citric acid dissolved in e I n the e n o e e ne n set h . e ee e t e wat r s co d plac , m r liquid g lati is d d to fruit e n se n cr ams tha to t those flavoured o ly with essences or liqu eurs . . The appearance of th ese articl es at the tim e of serving is improv ed by n e e e e o n the e on the e on placi g pi c s of chopp d j lly r u d bas , silv r or glass dish e ar Th n t e . e b fin C h o pp e d Je lly which th y e serv ed j elly should o cut so e f ° f e in e ed e e e as to mak a pulp , but small s parat pi c s to produc n a bright and cl ear appeara ce.

MOULDED CR EAMS

Mould ed creams usually con sist of whipp ed cream ﬂavoured with fruit

e e r and set e ne . O e t e e juic s or liqu u s , ﬁrm with g lati th r sor s mad aft r Continen tal m ethods consist of cream and custard mixed a M o ul d e d C re m s . t and set t n o r e t n Th e e e e. e og th r , wi h isi glass g la i latt r V e e are n e B a a r o se and e h v i be e . ari ti s am d , will d alt wit lat r Too much stress canno t be laid o n the fact that many moulded creams

v ki r i n . w n ar e n the O er his e the e H o wC r e a m s e spoil d maki g g curdl s c am a ' e S O il e d p and e e e ff e t n th e o and e s ts it lik butt r , thus a c i g ﬂav ur app ar

ance ; and stiffen i ng with a n o v erdose o f gelati ne also s po ils th em . n re to e o e r r ed e o in For va illa c am p a quart j lly m uld with cl a j lly , dr p ee e and th e e to set two or thr black grap s, allow j lly Van a C e a m ill r . 1 e n a n e n e e . ﬁrm . M a whil plac pt of cr am i to a cold p , add n th e ne e to and ee en va illa syrup with c ssary castor sugar ﬂavour sw t . CHAR LOTTES AND MOULDED CREAMS 43

i and en e t . n 1 en th b at lightly wi h a whisk Mix gill of milk , th about

e ne and n n to h a e e e o e t e e e . gill of m lt d g lati , tra sf r at c d cor t d mould e en ne the o be a nd et o f This cr am , wh tur d out of m uld , should soft y ff n n en to re n and e h s u icie t co sist cy mai firm upright . Wh re t e cream beats e be t n be en the up v ry light , it may hat this qua tity will suffici t to fill the n o f n m o uld without additio a y milk . e r n - e e s th e e n To mak b ow br ad cr am , pas crumb of a stal brow loaf h t fine e e . e t e in ho t en a nd hrough a si v Plac crumbs a ov , colour to a 1 t . e t e n . wt light brow Whip up p of cr am , add a lit l milk , i h B ro w n - bre a d C e a m n and eeten a nd mi x in the e t ne and r va illa sugar to sw , g la i

o f the o e e . n 2 oz . t ast d br ad crumbs Fill i to a quart mould previously d ecorated with red j elly .

I n e e . o e 1 talia cr am is mad as follows For a quart m uld pr pare pt . of cream with which a littl e milk has been mix ed ; s weeten and flavour with s one e n a nd ne s n the z e t of l mo half a wi gla sful of bra dy . t a a n C e am I li r . fi n a e Add the e ne and t e . g lati , ll i o d corat d mould Dip a e n e n e and t e f w e e e sk w r i to som liquid carmi , with his mak a str aks of colour in the mould ed cream . As e no flav o ur in ne n and e littl or g is obtai d from pistachio uts , as th y are e en e the ne e flav ourin o e xp siv , c ssary g for pistachi cr ams should be h n t e . e e . pr par d as follows Bri g to boil {5 pt of milk , P st ac o C e a m i hi r . h n n n n s and t e e o e e . 1 . 5 oz grou d almo d , z st of ora g Pass he e Ad u e e e and t . d ta e this thro gh a wir si v , add to cr am also two bl n n e een n and the ne es e ne spoo fuls of oyau , a littl gr colouri g , c sary g lati ;

e n n o t e o e e e and aft r whippi g , pour i t a quar mould d c rat d with cl ar j lly

filleted pistachio nuts . Sicilian cream is flavoured with crush ed ra tafia biscui ts and half a ne s and o e n e o e wi gla sful of kirsch , p ur d i to a mould d c rat d S c an C e a m i ili r . n s with j elly and preserved aprico ts a d ch errie . e s 1 f o e e . 1 . o o To flavour qt mould choc lat cr am , di solv oz of block coc a n o f t n a nd s o nd h i 1 . a t e gill hot milk Mix this wi h va illa ca t r sugar, e ne t the e e and n e to usual g lati wi h whipp d cr am , tra sf r C o c o at e C e am h l r . a m ould pre viou s ly d ecorated with one layer of plai n A f e w t ne be and one of whipped whi te j elly . spo s of carmi may add ed

- n to giv e the cream a reddish brow colour . Cream used for maki ng coffee creams should be flavoured with a n n o n e ed fee e sen e and tt e stro g i fusi of pr par cof s c , a li l C o f e e C e am f r . n n the v n and n . e e a illa sugar bra dy B for mouldi g, drop i to f w f ee e — ee e n mixture a e small cof liqu urs small sw ts fill d with stro g coffee . n - fl we Millef ruit e e e e e o r l e cr am is pr par d by addi g ld r syrup , with a ittl n a nd o o e e e e r t out e maraschi o vari us c lour d pr s rv d f ui s small , to whipp d

e e o r e the o - e e and cr am . D c at m uld with gold l af j lly M ille f r i C e a m u t r . four piec es o f diff ere nt coloured fruits . An endless vari ety of th ese creams may be prepared eith er in large e o e l n n e The e n d c rat d or smal plai or fa cy dariol moulds . writ r has fou d 44 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

u n e the e the e the that by si g small liqu ur drops of sam ﬂavours as cr ams, eating quality o f the creams is much improv ed . The n n e e n e fou datio for Bavarois cr ams co sists of a mixtur of custard ,

- e e ﬂa v ou rin and n o r e e ne . e whipp d cr am , g , isi glass b st quality g lati Th y n e are are n ot so rich as those mad e with cream o ly . Th y B a a o s e C e am s v r i r . e e the e e e e e to in d mould d , lik oth r cr ams r f rr d , moul s

A e e be e e . e ornam en ted with j elly a nd fruits . s th s should pr par d of a j lly n en e s en e e e ne t ffi en set th e. co sist cy , it is s tial that m lt d g lati , jus su ci t to e m be e cr a add d . Th e follo wi ng recipe and m ethod will mak e a rich custard which may be e e used with cream for prepari ng a large variety of moulded cr ams . Plac

n n o e si o and 6 . . C u s t a rd f o r i to a basi f ur ggs , x y lks , oz of castor sugar C r e a m M i x mg . n S n e e e e e and s in 1 . B at th s tog th r, whi k pt of boili g milk ta d

h n o ﬁre and n n e to the a n o f t e basi ov er a sl w , co ti u stir cust rd u til it is an The sufﬁci en t thick ness to co at the spo on ; th en transfer to a co ld p .

n w h . custard should be quite cold be fo re mixi g ith t e whipped cream

CHAPTER XI V

COMP OTE OF FR U I T A ND S UP P E R DI S H ES

“

I n n e e e m & c . are e e ee En e additio to j lli s, cr a s , , which s rv d as sw ts ( tr m ets the followi ng list of cold and hot dish es will be fou nd F ruit D i s h e s . nne n e n e e e . us ful for di r, lu ch o , or supp r parti s e e o f n e e e e n 4 a For a supr m pi appl pr par a ri g of No . g teau paste about in 5 in . e e an i n n r h n d 3 . . o o e a d diam t r thick Lay this a glass silv r dis , the en e e n n o e n e e S uprem e o f fill c tr with a mixtur co sisti g of ch pp d pi appl , P i m a le PP r n r n he a d . t e e ap icot pulp , ma aschi o Mask cak with whipp d e e no and e te the to on ; cr am flavour d with maraschi , d cora p with diam d e e e e e e ne e and t e e e shap d pi c s of pr s rv d pi appl small brigh ch rri s. Pip e e n the e the e whipp d cr am rou d sid s of cak with a bag and Sp in . star tube . For suprem e of ch erries flavour som e gateau paste with noyau syrup e o n u n n . C t a d e on in splash d with a brush a ri g of this , plac a dish ; fill the en e e e e t th S uprem e o f c tr with ch rri s mix d wi h appl e j elly . Mask e C e e s“ h rri e and t - e e o e n and cak fruit wi h whipp d cr am flav ur d with oyau ,

e e the e e and n - n d corat top with ch rri s diamo d shaped pieces of a gelica . and n e e o n the e e e and With a bag plai tub pip sid s som bulbs of cr am , lay o n h n - n t e ce tre of each bulb a small piece of ch erry cut out with a i in . plai e e tub or cutt r . en e e e are u e o e e e e n n Wh fr sh ch rri s s d for this purp s , th s , aft r sto i g , be e in e Th e en T o C oo k F re s h should cook d w ak syrup . syrup may th C e e s h rri be e in a e th e e e e us d pl c of appl j lly , but mad thick by a n e n arrowro mix h e le ot ed t e ddi g a littl cor ﬂour or g with small st possib CO LD - E NT R E ME TS

o n a Ch arlotte C lo i l .

C ro fi tes o f P e ac h es .

s o f na na s Ch artreu e B a .

a R ss Ch rlo tte u e .

M no n Ch a rl o tte ig .

’ S wallo w s N est.

c o ts C h artre u se o f A pri .

H a rlequi n Jellie s .

’ Ma c e d o i ne Jelly .

Riz I mpératric e .

Ch artre u se o f G ra pe s .

Ma rbl e Jelly .

COMPOTE OF FRUI T AND SUPPER DISHES 45

n e te the een e e and n n to qua tity of wat r, af r fruit has b r mov d , bri gi g all

the boil . ’ Riz a l I m éra tri e see M S 1 c e E R 0 3 . For p ( Plat , COLD NT E ET , No . ) boil oz n d an n f Add h w . a t e e o f rice ith pt of milk equal qua tity o water. z st o ne e n e e o f n e n and en of l mo , a pi c va illa b a , ough lump sugar R i z é lum é’ a t f i °e n the e n P ~ to sweete . Cook ric u til quite soft ; th en remov e from the e and t i n o e e and en e t ne set the e stov , s ir s m cr am suffici t g la i to mixtur

e n en . e e an en e be and to j lly co sist cy Pr par oval quart mould with c tr tu , pour a layer of clear j elly i n the bo ttom with pi eces of preserved apricots W n a nd e e . e e set e on t n e the ch rri s h this j lly has , plac top a hi lay r of c e o e o e a nd en o n n e to the old ric ; c v r with c ld j lly , wh firm c ti u fill mould n e e and e n in i n e e . S ce e a d en with alt r at lay rs of j lly ric ta d this wat r, wh s et firm turn out on a n oval dish and fill in the centre with stew ed aprico ts e or whipped cr am . th n n e n to e 1 . 1 n For bla cma g bri g boil pt of milk , 5, oz . of grou d n ee e e th e n o ne e n e e nna n almo ds , thr bay l av s , ri d of l mo , a pi c of stick ci mo , n to eet n s the and suffici e t lump sugar sw e . Pa s mixture n a e B la e M n g . n in 4 t e e n 1 . hrough a hair si v i to a shallow basi , stir ; oz m h n o f e e ne and t . e re soak d g lati , add i pt of cr a richly flavou d wit oyau l e e and n . en o n e bra dy Wh c ld , pour i to a quart mould pr vious y d corat d i n e i e red e an set ce t . with j lly , d firm som wa r e o r nne es e be e the e n Fr sh ti d fruit may , as d ir d , us d for pr paratio of n a nd h C ut in e . e e e e e o e t e ee . crout s of fruit Tak a whol pi appl , r m v p l it in and e e n o e e o n e o . r u d slic s ab ut i thick , divid ach i t two pi c s C r o ut e s o f

’

n r e o i n e . of equal size . Bri g this f uit to th b il w ak syrup th e n off the o n e e and e e e o . Drai syrup a hair si v , pr par crout s as foll ws s an w Lay the pieces o f pi neappl e in a auté p or shallo tray about 5 in. S n the an o n e ice the e a a t and e e . p r , cov r with j lly ta d p som , so that j lly e n e e n o e e a e e the s ets ﬁrm . M a whil cut out som thi val pi c s of g t au past h n e e n in te e e t e t. sam siz as frui With a k if , dipp d occasio ally hot wa r, cut

e e e the ﬁrm e and e e e out ach pi c of fruit from j lly , plac th s F o rm i n g D i s h

° f C m me ‘ the e in s o n the shaped pieces of gateau paste . Build crout s

n e e e - e n n the t e m e o n the positio , ach pi c half r sti g upo o h r, to for a circl m e o r e . e e e e ea and bord r of a glass silv r dish Pr par so whipp d cr m , ﬂavour h s een e e e n this with t e fruit yrup which has b pr viously r duc d by boili g . a Fill in the cen tre of the cre tes .

- E R M S 1 o tes e e see te . be e e Cr u of p ach s ( Pla , COLD NT E ET , No ) may pr par d

- i n e in e . The t e e a shallow tray , or mould d half p ach moulds la t r m thod S n h o e e no and e en a e . t e in is m r co mical , pr v ts w st ta d moulds C ro et e s o f P e a C bC S ice e and set e e in e . S the wat r, a littl j lly ach lightly colour the - e es t ne and s et one in e the to . m of half p ach wi h carmi , ach of moulds e e e e and en set n on Fill th s with j lly ﬂavour d with kirsch , wh , tur out a n e e the e d e e the thi round piec of cak sam iam t r as mould . Place o n the e and in the en e t e and dish to form a circl , ﬁll c tr wi h cr am from a bag An e e n star tube . oth r mod of dishi g up is to build a pyramid with the fl s nd m e e c ro te a e e en e . , pip bulbs of cr a b tw th m 46 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

“ and te es tr e e and t e be e e Black whi grap , s awb rri s , o h r fruits may pr par d

o n to the e ns tr o ns and e in n - e acc rdi g abov i ucti , mould d shallow fa cy shap d

n n a r the e a t r . e e e e n C r o ni e s o f moulds Ta g ri s us ful for pr p ra io of va io us

T a n e n e-5 ° g ri en e et e e f o r es e r es are e t u tr m s , sp cially th c out which mad wi ho t

. er e e e n e ne e j elly or moulds Cov som pi c s of dry ta g ri with caram l sugar.

4 a e n - n . in a d 2 i n tt e ee e . t . e Tak a sh t of No g t au past 4 hick , with § plai cu r m he n th n e sta p o ut t umber of pi eces required . Dip e e d of a piece of ca ram l o n e n o e h ot and o n the e the e a e ra g i t som sugar ﬁx this bord r of cak . T k e n e e bo en s in the and ten o ne end on the e a s co d pi c , dip th d sugar , fas cak a nd the e t o the t se e u e f t t e t. e o e e e oth r ﬁrs pi c of fr i Mak a circl h s , plac n an d n th h e e e ee e t e e . t e a caram l ch rry b tw . fast wi h hot sugar to cak Fill

en e o n - ﬂav o ur - ih e m c tr with ra ge ed cream through i . star tub to for a

pyramid .

An e e n e en e e n n r ute is oth r v ry ic tr m t is k ow as C o s of Madeira . This o ne e to e e en e e een e e e of thos , which r f r c has alr ady b mad , pr par d with

n I . see . e e the e in o C r o ut e s o f savari s ( Vol , p Pr par cak a shall w M a d a“ e ir o t e en e no t the n in m uld wi h a pip c tr . Do soak savari syrup , th n n n n n e o n e e . e es e o but cut it i to thi slic s , h ldi g k if diago ally Plac th n ee o and o o in en a baki g sh t, dust with cast r sugar, c l ur a hot ov . Mask o ne e o f e e e t ho t o t e e o n n e sid ach pi c wi h apric j lly , plac this a thi slic

ne e and et e o n e re - o th e of pi appl , build tog h r a silv r dish so as to f rm n in th n original shape of the savari . Fill e ce tre with fresh fruit mix ed t and e with a littl e s ock syrup ﬂavour d with madeira . n and er e n n in ho t n e For savari ch ri s soak a plai savari syrup , spri kl e n o e e on and e som oyau v r it, plac a dish , mask with hot apricot j lly . R e e the n e e e e e e and S a v a ri n a n d mov sto s from som fr sh or bottl d ch rri s,

C h e rri e s ° h h n e e to t e o in e . R e o e t e bri g th s b il w ak syrup m v fruit, and thick en the syrup with a little corn flour ; flav o ur with noyau and add t he en e the n a nd e e e e o to the e e . . ch rri s Fill c tr of savari , s rv ith r hot or c ld S n be e e the en e e e e avari s may s rv d with c tr fill d with whipp d cr am , S te e e and the fruit and syrup placed rou nd the base . w d p ears mix d t e be e e n e n and S a v a ri n s wi h cr am may s rv d alo g with soak d savari s , W t C e am i h r n n a n n nn The the combi atio is excell e t di er sw eet . fruit may be e e e n in o e ne e e pr par d by st wi g syrup c lour d with carmi , or s rv d as e e in n en the een o e in the the pr par d ti s . Wh fruit has b co k d syrup,

e be e r ed- n e en o e latt r should mad thick with curra t j lly , th flav ur d with m port wi ne and th e ri n d of a l e on . n and ee n in n e o e For savari apricots st p a savari hot syrup , spri kl s m n d t e th e e and e o s . kirsch ov r it , plac a i h ; mask with hot aprico j lly Fill en e e and e n the e e e e S a v a ri n c tr with cr am , plac rou d bord r som pi c s a nd A p ri °°t s of apricots tak en from a thick syrup flav o ured wi th kirsch . S o in and Savarin and peach es is p repared as follows . ak syrup t e n and n n . Use S a v a ri n a n d fi ish as for savari of apricots a mix ur of oyau P e a C h e S v Th t n o f e es kirsch for fla ouring . e addi io bright glacé ch rri n e mix ed with th e other fruit giv es these entremets a brighter appeara c . ’ The o ne en r e e see te E R M S No . 6 swall w s st t m t ( Pla , COLD NT E ET , ) COMPOTE OF FRUI T AND SUPPER DI SHES 47 is prepared with crush ed pieces of marron glacé highly flavoured with

’ nd n . e e e e kirsch a va illa sugar Press this past through a wir si v S w a ll o w s N C S L in fluted sa v ari n u t o n s and e n . o shap it a mould Tur a di h , a nd fill in the centre with whipped cream to which a li ttle gelati ne n h n n e e n een e . e o t e e t e e o e e has b add d Pip c r ugh cr am to r pr s t a bird , h l a n n n a nd fix t e tai d wi gs 111 po siti o . These appendages may be cut e e s e o n e e n e and e from bak d gaufr pa t or fr m a thi pi c of a g lica , mask d with n nd e e . t e a e e cr am Wi h caram l colouri g a sk w r, mark two small sp cks to n h e e e e n th e e and represe t t e ey s . Pip bulbs of whipp d cr am rou d bas sprinkl e som e chopped pistachio over this to represent

green moss . S mall n ests may be prepared by shaping the n e e e e n in marro (pr s rv d ch st ut) moulds , S m an N e s t s f ”f a m “ and transferri ng to a biscuit bas e mad e ° r V S e e see o l. I of hr wsbury past ( , p . Fo r Mont Blanc Chantilly pou nd pieces of marron and n e A d glacé va illa sugar tog th er i n the mortar . d e e and t e and whipp d cr am a lit l kirsch , M o n t B l anc e e The C h a ntilly pass through a si v . paste should be rich with cream and of such a consistency that it the e e i n e will pass through si v s parate pi eces . Lay

on the en e in and this c tr of a dish pyramid form ,

e t e e . e e e n cov r wi h whipp d cr am B for s rvi g , it should be sprinkled over with sugar crysta ls as usually — fee e w . mb Mo u d e Fi 1 06. Bo g . l s rv d ith cof Anothe r sweet that is easy to prepare is made d e m o n ne n e an . o w with bak ed m eri gu cr a of marr Li a shall shortbread e i n t e a nd t . e hoop with sweet shor past Fill wi h appl jam bak M a rro n a nd M e k t n a e e n e ri n gu e in en . a hot ov Mas this wi h a thi l y r of cold m ri gu ,

a nd e n n the en . en e e o f r tur agai to ov to colour Wh cold , tak a mixtur n e and o n - and n e e ne marro cr am , with a f rci g bag a small plai tub pip li s n e n o f cream to partly cover the m eri gu . Spri kle som e pi eces of pistachio

o v er this . n e e n o f t For Venetian puddi g pr par a mixi g custard wi h 1 pt . of milk 1 o f n in . e nd n fo r o e o e e a . as Bavar is ; diss lv this oz g lati , sta d away to cool

e m e e e o f n e s a nd rata fias n n Plac so pi c s dry fi g r bi cuits i to a basi , Ve n e ti a n o f n e and P u d d i n g a n t e e n . d soak wi h a mixtur bra dy , sh rry , a littl oyau C ut e re e e s een e and e e n som p s rv d apricot , gr gag s, ch rri s i to small pi eces . t e e t the us a and e a nd n n o Mix h s wi h c t rd soak d biscuits , tur all i t a quart f ancy - shaped m o uld previously d eco rated with gold - l eaf j elly and different The o e t e be e c o loured fruits . ab v mix ur may s rved wi th a rich cream a e e t t e m e ne e s uc mad wi h cus ard cr a flavour d with wi or liqu ur . Fo r N eapolitan cream prepare a light mixture with three gills of e e e e t ne e e e e e n e and whi pp d cr am , a littl g la i , pi c s of pr s rv d gi g r, N e a p o li ta n C e a s r ee ten n m . eno ugh ca te sugar to sw . Pour i to a bomb m o uld r 1 06 and s et in ice a e I n the n (fig . ) w t r . m ea tim e prepare two separate 48 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS mix in e e o ne e and the o e e ne gs of chopp d j lly, whit th r colour d with carmi . Turn the cream on to a silver dish and cov er with piped lines of coloured

e e n n o ne no e . e S e e e een j lly , alt r ati g colour with a th r Plac a plit pr s rv d gr e n the en e and e the o e e . gag c tr , cov r dish with chopp d j lly Very little e n I f g lati e is required to set this cream . mad e stiff the j elly will no t h adh ere to t e sid e . e e ne o n e and n For cr am gaufr s li a r u d or oval charlott , mould with pi k and white wafers mad e in cigarette shape with th e sam e paste as used n e s I . k t ee . e he e C re a m for maki g cop aux ( Vol , p Ma waf rs to ﬁt G a f ﬂ' u e S ' e o e e and n em o en e e clos t g th r joi th with glacé r yal . Wh th s

e set t n o n e n n - a e e e . ten hav ﬁrm , ur out to a bas of fo da t ic d g t au past Fas n th e en e e e e — een n and in n rou d c tr a pi c of pal gr ribbo , ﬁll with va illa the e e . e e w t e To cr am D corat bas i h pr serv ed ch erri es and angelica . giv e this cream an attractiv e app earance it is essen tial that the wafers be e n and e in e h t n should mad thi bak d a v ry o ov e .

C H A P TE R x v

E NTR E METS

VANILLA SOUFFLE

n n 2 n fle e o . n o 1 . n For va illa souf w igh i t a basi oz of plai fl ur, oz cor r and 1 o z n h e e flour, oz . castor suga , . va illa sugar ; w isk all tog th r with a n r n h e . to t e a three yolks d 5 pt . of milk add d g adually Bri g boil over fir e e t n to e en the te o e o n slow whil s irri g quickly pr v t pas fr m b c mi g lumpy .

R th e e an and en has o in r e o e o e o . m v past to a cold p , wh it c l d stir f u yolks ff an ee e e d e e the e . Whisk thr whit s of gg to a sti foam , mix th s with past o nt ere so uﬂflé n e e e e n and P ur i o a butt d dish li d with a butt r d pap r ba d ,

e i n h o t o en f o r o n e . R e o e th H o wt o S e rv e bak a v ab ut thirty mi ut s m v e S o u mé s a e n in e f e e on p p r ba d , dish a silv r sou ﬂ cas or a ﬂat dish ;

e e n r a nd e e at o n e . en e e e e e t dr dg with va illa suga , s rv c This tr m t r quir s gr a I t o n be e e o e . e n e n e . car , owi g to its b i g v ry light sh uld s rv d at c

VANI LLA SOUFFLE PUDDIN G

The fo undation of this r ich puddi ng consists of a light cream - bun paste ‘ t th e e e e t 3 o z . m i xed with yo lks and whipped whi es . Pr par hot batt r wi h 2 n n a nd . e z ter 1 . ﬂo 3 o . ur , but , oz va illa sugar, gills milk Tra sf r to a cold t e a b s n e t i n ﬁ v e a nd e e . a i , b a yolks , add gradually six whisk d whi s Dr ss

n e o t r e e ee - C o o ki n g s o u fflé plai flut d m uld wi h cla ifi d butt r, thr parts fill with i n S t e a m th e e s e e o n o f ea e e o n and mixtur , cur a r u d gr s d pap r top,

- r o rt ﬁv e n te in e e wn . n o n steam s l o wly f o ab ut fo y mi u s a cov r d ste pa Tur

and e e n e e e e . to a hot dish , s rv with va illa cr am or pr s rv s ENTREMETS 49

VANILLA SouFFLE FR ITTERS

Prepare a mixing o f paste as used for éclairs ; ﬂavour with vanilla e e an e D rO in the e h o r . essence . Hav r ady a p of cl ar hot lard oil p mixtur wit n and the n n e e e . a d ss rt spoo , fry fritt rs to a light brow Drai S a uc e wi th 3 ° “fﬂé s ~ e and n o n a pap red tray, dust with icing sugar before servi g . n e e m a be e e in e es e e Va illa whipp d cr am y s rv d a sauc boat with th , or som be e n raspberry jam may forc d i to each fritter from a paper cornet .

CHoeoLATE SOUFFL E

’ e ffle 2 o z n n For chocolat sou add . of u sweete ed cocoa to the hot paste as ffle o o f s in n sou . w prepared for va illa C l ur with a e drop o f carmine ; mix an in t the e d e e e . e e e n e whit s , bak a gr as d dish B for s rvi g , dus ov r with vanilla sugar and powdered cocoa .

COFFE E SOUFFLE

Th e e en e e ne o n roasted b st ﬂavour for this tr m t is obtai d by b ili g hot , h fee e n n the . en no t n en ent e e t e cof b a s alo g with milk Wh this is co v i , r duc nt 1 and add e n o fee qua ity of milk by gill , som stro g c f T o S e c ure B e s t C 0 3 “ F aw“? he e n s uffle nd l n s n. Use t o a i fu io sam formula as for va illa , e in e n n so uffle e in e ram a uin e bak larg li i g of cas , or pap r q cas s .

R ICE SOUFFLE

n the 3 2 7 . caste r the e Bri g to boil gills of milk , add } oz of sugar, z st of t h n e . e t e t one n e a nd 1 s . e ora g , oz of grou d ric B a mix ur with a whisk n it en a nd e o o en n e an Add u til thick s is quit sm th ; th tra sf r to a cold p . ﬁv n four yolks and the whipped whites of e eggs . Pour i to a buttered

e n e and e - fiv e n e o e . s uffl cas or plai flut d mould , bak for about forty mi ut s

AP PLE FR ITTE RS

A e t e are o e n e a e so e in n ppl fri t rs comp s d of thi slic s of ppl ak d bra dy, f t t e en e e e and e i n a . O be e th cov r d with batt r, fri d hot h r fruit may us d i n the e n t e e s ee s o r e and pr paratio of h s w ts , with or without pirits liqu urs ,

n s e o n the n e n . e e n e ﬁ i h d acc rdi g to followi g dir ctio s Tak som sou d appl s ,

i n h e and cut e n to e . t e e t e o th m i slic s 3 hick ; r mov c r s with a p re p a ri n g th e A n n e e and ea e e so are ppl e ?" plai rou d cutt r, par trim ch pi c that all of s h th e s e e o e e n . e e t e t e o am iz ; c v r with a littl bra dy Pr par ba t r as f llows . n 8 o z a n 9 s d 1 . s Weigh i nto a ba i . of ﬂour . oz ca ter sugar ; add a pi nch o f

t a nd in the n s en m e to e te t sal , mix with ha d wuffici t war wat r mak a pas hick n Add o eno to o t . t e o n o f and ugh c a a spoo tabl spo fuls salad oil , allow all to rem a i n for thirty mi nutes ; th en mix in the w ell - beaten whites of two h e . t e e and o small ggs Dry appl s with a cloth , dust with fl ur . Dip each s e te n o the te a nd o o o en o in th para ly i t bat r, c k to a light g ld c lour e fat . n o n e e t fine s e n e h Drai a pap r d tray , dust wi h ugar , plac u d r t e U s e o f th e S ala m a nd s alam and n t the s e te a d s e e n . n e . e u il ugar is m l d , rv at o c Th se

ers e v e n e en e e s a nd a re e ﬁrst- e n fritt mak ry ic tr m t , suitabl for class cat ri g . V e . t . II 6 7 5 0 SWEETS AND ENTREMETS

V ery often in restaurants and hotels wh ere they are in e v eryday d emand a pan of batter is k ept prepared ; this makes a lighter fritter than if the t e e ba t r is fr sh made. PEAC H SICILIAN

Fo r e S n en tin e e e e e e e em P ach icilia op a or bottl of pr s rv d p ach s , plac th

n on e e and the n e n 2 l a f . e to drai a si v , put syrup i to a sauc pa with oz of R h n n t e t e . i n sugar . duce to half origi al qua ti y Drop the peaches a nd n to th e o et e a nd n n e o e e e. e bri g boil ; shak all t g h r , tur out a wir si v Cov r the en e e n F illi n g f o r c tr of a silv r dish with ﬁrm va illa custard ; force the

P a ° 3 5 ° e h cen tre of each half - p each with paste consisting of crush ed ra aﬁas an d e e e e e n e t a littl apricot pr s rv ﬂavour d with kirsch . Tur ach pi ece of fruit on to th e cu s tard to almost cov er the latter ; th en bru s h a e o e e and n e o n e e fi littl apric t pulp ov r ach , spri kl som crush d rata as ; sala f wn and e ho n e e e t . ma d for a mi ut s , s rv

PEA R S SI C ILIAN

An er e n e - e n eet e e n I n oth v ry ic ati g sw is call d P ars Sicilia . this case

he e th e e the e f o r th t t e e e n . frui us d is p ars , but m thod is sam as for goi g e w n and th e e m e Pr par ith va illa custard , soak crush d biscuits with aras

chino . AP P LE CHAR LOTTES

Appl e charlottes are quite different fro m those m en tioned in the list of en e e e e are e e h o t th e. e e e cold tr m ts , as th s s rv d up with a rich sauc Pr par d th n fi n . e an e e e e e e n lli g as follows Par divid r quir d umb r of appl s , put i to e n t th e e o e n o f e e and e a sauc pa wi h small st p ssibl qua tity wat r, cov r , st w th n n o n h en e e e e . e t e g tly till e fruit is quite te d r . Drai a wir si v Plac pulp n nt the e n t the n o ne e n e e o f back agai wi o sauc pa wi h ri d of l mo , a pi c stick n t o e e o e e e e and 2 z nn o e o . ci am , bay l av s , four cl v s, a littl apricwot pr s rv , of h e e and e e . ee t e to e ten fr sh butt r K p mixtur stirr d , allo all simm r for n e n t e h m e . e t e B r e a d F i n g e r s mi ut s Butt r a plai charlo t mould , cov r botto

f ° r L n in ' i g and sid es with thi n ﬁnger - shaped pieces of bread dipp ed in cl a riﬁ ed butter ; th ese for the bottom must be cut i nto p ear shap es with a

h n e th n - in th ro und pi ece for t e c e tre ; thos for e sid es i to . strips e sam e

h e . E e e o e n l ength as t e mould us d ach pi c should v rlap its eighbour . n the e o n e and nn n the o R e e the e . mov ri d of l m , bay l av s , ci amo Fill m uld e uree e n e on and e f o r with appl p ; plac a rou d of br ad top , bak thirty

n e in hot en . n on e and e e mi ut s a ov Tur out to a silv r dish , s rv with hot e m e the e o f th e e e e and sauc ad with juic appl s , mix d with apricot puré , r m An e e e n es e a ﬂavoured with u . oth r m thod of pr pari g th ch r S h o rt P a s t e L n n f o r h w n in e to ne t e o e i i g lott s is li moulds ith rich sh rt past , ﬁlli g with C a o tt e s h rl ' e e e e o e n the n e e . the cold appl pr s rv , c v ri g top with a rou d pi c of

- e e and n o t ﬁv e n e in en. sam past , baki g for f r y mi ut s a hot ov

T 0 U[ I CES

The em n n e e e t an f w d a d for fa cy ic s is much gr at r h it was a e y ears ago and to m eet this d emand it is necessary to hav e a good vari ety of moulds i n . e e are e o f stock (ﬁg Th s moulds mad white m etal . d f o r c e s M o ul s I . e e e e n e e n e Th y r quir car ful dryi g ach tim of usi g , as oth r e e e and e the e an t n ent e te wis th y quickly corrod giv ic s as ri g ﬂavour . P w r o n be o n e . e e i n e e n moulds last l g r Th y may btai d all siz s, for larg puddi gs ,

o e 8 m I e n fﬁ n ne n e o e . bombs, m uss s , or for small c s o ly su ci t for p rso

To e e ee n the e e mix in s pr par a sharp frost for fr zi g cr am or wat r g , add o ne s mall shovelful of coarse salt to e h l f p ro p o rt i o n s of ight s ovelfu s o I “ a n d s a lt i crush ed ce . By add ing e xtra sal t a much sharper fr ost be t ne l may ob ai d , but too much sa t MOUL D I MP R ESSI ON i h I I n e I e qu ckly m elts t e ce . som c WA L NU T freezi ng d epartm ents a machine is used for crushing th e ice ; this is suitable wh ere a large trade is done . Wh ere the turn - ov er for these con HE AR r L"ON f ectio ns no t e th e B r e akin g is so larg , t h e I c e . ice may be brok en with a n “ i sharp eedle ( ce prick ﬁg . or placed in a wo od en fram e an d

n ﬂa - e t e o e t e . p u d d with a bottom d p s l A T ME L ON R OS E B S K E An old tub from which the bottom has been removed answers the pur e and e en the ice e n pos , pr v ts from b i g n i wasted . Fi e crush ed ce is waste ful ; the pi eces sho uld be brok en on ly AP P LE p E A R ORA NGE to abo ut the size of large walnuts . There are s om e machi n es consist in n o e n e g o ly of a cl s d cyli d r or box , n th e i e and S t a ti o n a ry aro u d which c M a c n e s ~ hi are e Th e e salt pack d . cr am P I NE oys rm A S PARAGUS e be en _ Fi . 1 1 1 P w Moulds or mixtur to froz is simply . e ter I ce g e in e e t e and o e plac d this r c p acl , all w d to ee e e e ne n o t e o t s et e . o fr z till it is quit ﬁrm Th s machi s do pr duc a s f , m n n o o e ice e o e and o r . s th , cr amy , but rath r that co sists of hard s ft pa ts n n e e h w e the n ee t e t o ne n e Wh usi g ordi ary fr zer , or ith r of machi s am d e the e t in n n use n the te U s e o f th e abov , spatula is k p co sta t mixi g ma rials S a t a p ul o n s e e en until the mixture is ready . By ad pti g thi m thod v water ices . m ay be frozen to a rich creamy substance without any signs n The n e e en e e e e o e e . of c ars ss smooth ss so ss tial , sp cially with wat r ic s , is n ot o e e th e e e ee n o n e e be o e , h w v r, r sult of car ful fr zi g ly . Th r must a pr p r proportion of stock syrup or caster sugar add ed to give the mixture body ; o e s n To th erwise it fre ze hard a nd coarse like frozen water or milk o ly .

‘ e en t e in n i h water e e w e e e t pr v t mis ak s this dir ctio , mor sp cially ic s , it is THE PREPARATI ON OF I CES 5 3 advisabl e to use a s accharom eter f o r t esting the d ensity of the syrup e ar s nd see . e e e a ( fig Wat r ic s simply flavour d syrup , U s e o f th e s a C C h am m e—t e r f o r th eir preparation in ho t w eather the flavoured mixture s ho uld hav e a d ensity of 1 7 to 1 8 d egrees by th e sacchar Th n o m eter . e d e sity may be two d egrees high er in v ery e s h e . en n e t e en ice e cold w ath r Wh fi i h d , froz cr am should e te a nd s be in cut lik firm but r, hould rich flavour with o ut an n o f n y sig hard ess . I t is n eces sa ry at tim es that ices should be mad e to n th carry long distances . Whe this is e case the mixture T s ho uld contain a little l ess sugar . he M e th o d o f es be en e en the S t a c n F e e e ic should froz car fully , th ki g r z r o t f o r Tr a n s p r ’ freez ers packed in large tubs charged with e — is the ice no t e a w ak frost that , must hav so much salt it — en o e e e n i ce e with , th c v r d with a h ap of plai ov r which e n ee the ice n a littl salt is spri kl ed . To k p wfrom m elti g to o be e e et e e quickly , it should cov r d with a sack s cur d The e e n with cord or with small nails . gr at st da ger in — transporting charged freezers for long distances by ro ad or Fi . 1 I ce P ick g 1 2 . r rail is that the bri ne from the m elte d ice and salt may find e h e E e e t n be t acc ss to t e contents of the freez r. v ry pr cau io must aken e ent t to pr v his . I ce e are ene e e n soufflés cav s g rally mploy d for stori g various , or for

—I ce Ca es i 1 13 . F g . v

s e n on the e Fo r sendi ng out o n o rder ices already di h d for placi g tabl . m any years oval a nd rou nd cav es m a d e with galvanized iron I a c e C v e s . pai nted e v er hav e been in use i n the maj o rity o f cateri ng

h e e are e co v er has o n establis ments . Th s mad with a which a rim top

n ice and to lie on to . i n. about 3 high , which allows a fair qua tity of salt p 1 1 3 s e ne et e n e n in . . Better caves are those show ﬁg Thi is cl a r, b t r to ha dl , e i en n and more conv eni ent than those pack d n tubs . Wh fa cy large ices e e e n o ne o r e e n e s e r quir d corati g with mor oth r ki ds of cr am , it is af r to o pen the door of the cave wi thout l etting in the sa lt water than to raise h the e e e e o n the i ce t e e e . cov r of oth r sort of cav d scrib d , which is plac d Befo re d ealing with the various kinds of ices which may be prepared and s e e in n e and e ne e e e e o f rv d ma y shap s styl s , it is c ssary to r f r to som in h the n e en s e t e n e. e e e e F re s h Frui t s i gr di t us d ma ufactur Wh r v r possibl , b e “ f o r c e s ' I fresh fruits should be u s ed rath er than tho se preserved in

e in the . en e are wat r or syrup , or form of jams Wh fr sh fruits out of e n o r en the e the ne e t e s aso , wh pric is too high , xt b st is frui puré or fruit e n e e o e to n the e juices . With som bra ds of th s pulps it is p ssibl obtai prop r

- d n e e an . J e are e fr sh fruit ﬂavour a ic bright colour ams , as a rul , v ry u nsatisfactory in both those respects . All ki nds of ices may be grouped u nd er two h eadi ngs : as cr ea m i ces c e n n fﬂé e and wa ter i es . e s u o s Various cr am ic s , i cludi g , mouss s , parfaits,

& c . are e e e e C r e a m a n d biscuit glacé , , pr par d with mixtur s of cr am , or

W a t e “33 5 ° r o custard a nd cream frozen t gether . S ev eral recipes and

e a re en e e e e n. m thods giv b low , which , if car fully follow d , will giv satisfactio

VANILLA CR EAM I CE

I t e Vanilla cream is one of the most popular ices . is ﬂavour d with e i a e e n e en e n n sp c lly pr par d va illa sugar, ss c of va illa , or va illa syrup, as Th e ﬂa v ourin o ne n the n t co n v eni ent . e b st g is that btai d by boili g a ural n e n in e e k ee e e n va illa pod or b a milk , but as this l av s small blac s ds , r s mbli g t e in the e e no t t the n e o f par icl s of dust , cr am , custom rs familiar wi h atur n n th e and n e are I t V a n ill a S e e d s va illa complai of spots thi k th y dirt . is i" c e s “ I on this accou n t that confectioners use powdered sugar or an n I n e n e en use e e o e e e. ss c pr pari g this sugar it is ss tial to a hair si v , thr ugh an n n b e n i which th e po u nd ed sugar d va illa bea s may e pass d . Va illa ce

e in n 1 . e cream may be prepared as follows . Mix tog ther a basi qt of cr am nd 2 n caste r u a . . with 3 gills of milk ; add 9 oz . of s gar oz of va illa sugar

ﬁne e e and ee e . Pass all through a si v , fr z with a sharp frost

VANILLA CUSTAR D I CE

n ice e e e on n the e e Va illa custard is mor difficult to pr par , accou t of as h e e e in n - wn n t t e b . e e wi h which custard may spoil d Plac a mixi g bo l i ggs , n n 1 t r e e ee a d . cas e e ight yolks, lb of sugar ; mix all tog th r with a whisk , n ‘ n n a d e 2 . n whil doi g so add quickly qt of boili g milk flavoured with va illa . e th e an on the e and n n e to the e n i t Plac p stov , co ti u stir mixtur u til is of s en n e o he n n n e o s n uffici t thick ss to c at t spoo . Tra sfer at o c to a c ld ba i ;

1 e an n . . d the e to o o e o e ee e the add pt of cr am , allow whol c l b f r fr zi g Whil e e n e e no t be e mixtur is b i g pr par d it should actually boil d , W h y C u s t ard m u s t n o t b e as th e e xtra co oking of the eggs causes a tend ency in th e m o u c h B mle d ‘ nd in is e I e e a e e . t mixtur to curdl , this stat it us l ss is a m e o e e e th e e e the n o r e att r of ch ic wh th r cr am is add d to boili g milk , mix d in en the s e n wh cold cu tard is r ady for freezi g. FOU R P R E S I D E N TS

n in L e o o in S M L . L C S R o 1 8 ente e his A UE B EI E TE , b r iv rp l 43, r d ’ a t e s m n and a n s ness and o n its t ans o matio n f h r illi g b ki g bu i , r f r

o m an in 1 888 am mana in The into a limited c p y bec e g g directo r.

u in Mr Le c st mi n and a n s esses e e t en se a ate . . e e lli g b ki g b w r h p r d i r, n w n f n w om s ess a a a i m m e o the wh is et e s ct e e o o r ir d fr bu i , v b r ’ w L e oo Maste a e s Asso c a t o n and as P es e nt o f the iv rp l r B k r i i , r id

n in 1 8 8— H e is a m embe o f the S o et N atio nal Asso ciatio 9 99 . r ci y of F riend s.

W LL M AR L o rn at G o c este in 1 8 0 emo e to I IA UNDE , b l u r 4 , r v d

m am n a A te se n an a ent ces Bir ingh at a early ge . f r rvi g ppr i hip w n n 1 8 n to a n h e sta te iness o n his o n acco t i 6 a d b ki g, r d bu s u 5 m t t ea t s cce ss H e eti e o m act e o in the e wi h gr u . r r d fr iv w rk

in ss w nd n w o te s all h is t m e to c u s e a fe ea rs a o a e d e v i u l b y g , p wb i w s in 1 880. H e as o H e h as een a P oo r La G a an ce w rk . b u rdi

’ Treasure r and th en C h airman o f th e Birmingh am Ma ste r B ak e rs

Asso ciat o n and o m its o n a t o n h as een T ea s e o f the i , fr f u d i b r ur r

at o na Asso c at o n o f h h e wa P i n in 1 . c s a so es e t 0 N i l i i , whi l r d 9 7 H i e s an activ e m ember o f the P rimitive Meth o di s t Churc h .

H R M P n i E n in 1 ea ne th E S . . o n 8 e N Y ITH , J , b r di burgh 57 , l r d

a n a in P t wn a ﬂ i n in t e o c e e he no s o s s ess b ki g r d i l hry , wh r ru ur hi g bu ,

o n in 1 8 2 f L n 1 H f u de d 8 a s a branch o o ne started in eith i 87 6. e to ok a l ea ding p art in fo rming the S co tti sh Asso ci ati o n o f Maste r

a H i n w 1 8. e s a d as e ecte P es e nt in 0 e s C a man o f B k r , l d r id 9 h ir

h it o f h a t e P lo chry P arish Co u nc il a nd a membe r t e S c h o o l Bo rd .

R IC HAR D TAYLO R is o ne o f th e l eading m aste r b ake rs in

Li er oo r s a a n o f h v p l, wh e re h e has been fo e v e r l ye rs P resid e t t e

o ca ea and F o n H e has an e e ent l l Br d l ur Trad e A sso ci atio . xc ll repu tati o n as a peacemake r in trad e dispu tes aff ec ti ng prices a nd s c m a u h tte rs.

AM. B LE C E S . I S T ER WILLIAM ARUNDEL (Liverpo ol) (Birmingha m)

E R S M J. P . R C RD LO H N Y ITH , I HA TAY R (Pitlo chry ) (Liv erpo o l) FO UR PRESIDENTS

5 6 I CES

RASPB ER RY CR EAM I CE

R e e ice e e in the e nne the o e aspb rry cr am is pr par d sam ma r as ab v , but in e e e e e e are e e e plac of strawb rri s , fr sh raspb rri s us d , or pr par d pulp , with e ne to r e ee e in the a little mor carmi p oduc a d p r colour mixture .

BANANA CR EAM I CE

n n e ice n e and e e be e Ba a a cr am is i sipid by its lf, r quir s to mix d with The h s and lemon e . be e be kir ch juic fruit , w ich must rip , should passed t o e e and e into and e n e hr ugh a hair si v , thus mad smooth pulp , mix d at o c t e e and to e en e o n e . wi h cr am , or part cr am milk , pr v t its b c mi g discolour d S eeten t e e and ee e e n w to ast with cast r sugar , fr z r ady for mouldi g , or it h n n e nn may be serv ed from t e tub . Ba a a ic s for di er or other function s be e e in th e e n n n n S e rvi n g i n may s rv d r al ba a a ski s laid o green leav es B a n a n a S kin s" e An e e o mad e with pull d sugar . oth r m th d is to mould them in een and e in e e n n e two colours, gr y llow , p wt r moulds of ba a a shap , d n s an e e e o e e . t M o ul di n g s rv at tabl sugar l av Both m e hods may be B a n a n a I C C S The h e h v en e . e t e t n e e o el. The r comm d d form r is , ow v r, mos n h e e e e the re o i ski of t e fruit is car fully s al d aft r c am is f rced n . Som e surprise is created wh en an ordinary - looking banana is fo und to co ntai n n i e fro z e ce cr am . PINEAPP LE CR EAM I CE

ne e e e n e nne to e Pi appl cr am is mad by addi g fr sh or ti d fruit cr am , or

an d e and e . ee e to part milk cr am , with sugar a littl citric acid N dl ss say , n e n the best ﬂavour is that obtai ed from fresh fruit . This may at c rtai l w e into and ~ e n be e o e re s aso s purchas d at a pric , mad a syrup or pulp , p ne e e o t ne n n serv ed for future u se. Bruised pi appl s may b b ai d ra gi g fro m d r n an d e n e e e e e n n 5 d . to 6 . e p pou d , , aft r pulpi g, th s show a b tt r r tur tha n n ti ed fruit . e e are n e e e e ﬂa v ourin e Th r ma y oth r purpos s , b sid s g ic s, for which this e The e to e e the f o r es n fruit may be us d . b st way pr par fruit ic is to pou d in the e o r r and en P re p a ri n g p i n e it mortar with a littl milk sy up , th pass

f o r 1 03 9 " a ppl e the pulp through a ﬁne si ev e before mixi ng with the other n the e o en s ome e e e e e n e en t . e i gr di s Wh cr am is fr z , small pi c s of pr s rv d the n e the e m n e are e in and fruit of ki d which giv s cr a its am mix d , it is th en moulded as requ ired .

GLACE A LA C REME P R ALI NEE

n i n the en 6 e n a e e é e . For glacé la cr m prali , roast ov oz of whol almo ds ,

e on r e e e and e 8 . e rub th m a coa s si v , mix th m with oz of cast r sugar which

in - d een e t e e e . A d p ra lin é e has b boil d o a caram l a copp r sugar boil r a C r e a m I C C S f n n f w n e e o e o e e e e small pi c va illa b a , stir all t g th r for a mom ts

er th e sto v e and en n e to e e e . en s ov , th tra sf r a gr as d marbl slab Wh thi h e o n e o n in in the . t e caram l is c ld crush it u d r a r lli g p , or mortar Pass v ery ﬁne pieces through a wire si e ve a nd put the coarse pi eces away for e o e in n 1 1 . nd e e . e . e a t d corativ purp s s Plac a basi pt cr am , pt milk , a lit l THE PREPARATI ON OF I CES 5 7

S in the n in he . . e e and en ee e t kirsch tir caram l powd r, th fr z ordi ary way The e n and be e in e be coars almo ds sugar may mix d at this stag , or may k ept for sprinkling over the moulded ices directly these are turned out of the moulds . CHOCOLATE CR EAM I CE

Chocolate cream ice is mad e by ﬂav ouring with unsw eetened choco late e e and n The a mixtur of cr am , sugar, milk , or va illa custard . colour will be e the n f ews ots n improv d by additio of a p of carmi e.

APR ICOT CR EAM I CE

A o e n e - e n ice I t e n pric t cr am is a oth r rich ati g . is mad by mixi g

et e e e e e 5 e 1 8 . tog h r tw lv larg rip apricots , with gills cr am , gill milk , oz caste r and the e o ne e on e n o of sugar , juic of l m , with a littl kirsch or yau , and i en l o n e suffci t yel ow col ur to giv e the required ti t . This is pass d nd n e e e e a e . through a hair si v , ﬁ ish d as r quir d

PEACH C R EAM I CE

e e e ice n e se e e e the To mak p ach cr am Obtai som brui d fr sh fruit , r mov s ne and the the n b e to s, pass pulp , with as much of ri d as possi l , through a Add n e e. e e e a d e e hair si v som kirsch , with cr am , cast r sugar, l mon juic , and n ﬁ ish as requi red .

OR AN GE CR EAM I CE

F 1 n e e ice e e the n e . One or qt . of ora g cr am pr par followi g mat rials n two e n e and th e 7 te 1 e pi t of cr am , oz . cas r sugar, gill milk , larg ora g s , e o f l m n The e e o e n the e o th e n juic half a e o . b st m th d of r movi g z st fr m ri d The of the fruit is by rubbi ng this on to a piece of lump sugar . sugar will e e te the o il o the en t b quickly b com satura d with fr m fruit, wh his may e h scraped o ff with the h eel of a kn ife and mixed with t e cream . Where

u no t be o ne e m e the e e e t— e this s gar is to btai d , r ov z st with a sp cial z s scrap r s I the es the a nd o n th e ee . e . ( Vol , p . Mix z t with milk , warm stov the an e and e n es s e e the e a nd Pass or g l mo juic through a hair i v , add cr am n o n the en co lo ur t e o and ne sugar, strai to this hot milk ; th wi h y ll w carmi , n fla v urin no t be n a nd fi nish as required . The o ra ge o g should retai ed in the ho t o n e n ne e an n e n e milk l g r tha c ssary, as it will impart u pl asa t tast . Tangerines and le mons may be used in the sam e manner for flav o uring e e e t th ir r sp c ive creams .

PI STACII I O C R EAM I CE

e the i n f o r t i 1 e e ce : . e 1 . Pr par follow g pis achio cr am pt cr am , pt milk ,

3 o z . o n o n 0 ca t r n 1 . s e o e e s o ne gr u d alm ds , oz sugar, liqu ur glass kir ch , e as s n - ﬂ w e o er e and the e o f an o n e . n liqu ur gl ora g wat r , z st half ra g Bri g

the the b the n o n and o n e es half milk to oil , with grou d alm ds ra g z t . Place all in and w to e e t the e t e n the a mortar, work g th r i h p s l u til mixture e e e e s s r s mbl s cr am . Pa all through a hair si e ve ; th en add the o ther V ] ea l . 68 n nt th et n een and n e e e e . e i gr di s , colour wi Br o gr , ﬁ ish as r quir d V ry t e ﬂa v ourin ne s n n F l a v o uri n g f o r lit l g is obtai d by u i g pistachio uts al o ne P i s mc m° C e a m r f or t e and t e e are e n his cr am , as h s much mor expe sive than

n n not e to use e . g rou d almo ds , it is advisabl th m

WALNUT C R EAM I CE

m i is e I t n e ce . e e . R 4 Wal ut cr a a favourit is pr par d as follows oast oz . o f e e n t r u b e in e e e e and o e sh ll d wal u s , th m a coars wir si v , ch p th m small .

o e o en e m e the n n e en : 1 Mix with s m fr z cr a mad with followi g i gr di ts pt .

7 . e c e . e n r am , 5 pt milk , oz cast r sugar , half a liqu ur glass of maraschi o ,

an e nt e e . e e n e e the te with qual qua ity of ros wat r Wh r c ssary , roas d n and be e to e n e n wal uts sugar may roast d a caram l , as for prali é or bur t a lm en d cream . GINGER C R EAM I CE

n e e ice e e . e e Gi g r cr am is quickly pr par d Flavour som cr am , or part c e m and t n n e e e r a milk , wi h grou d gi g r pr viously mix d with syrup . S ee en t e and en e in the ee e in so m e w t to ast , wh mad ﬁrm fr z r, drop small e n e s quare pieces of preserv d gi g r .

B ROWN - B R EAD C REAM I CE

- 1 n e e ice e e . e For brow br ad cr am mix tog th r 5 pt of cr am , 5 pt . of milk , ne e n and the 7 . caster o s e oz of sugar, liqu ur glass of maraschi o, pa s mixtur ee e in and t e t e e . hrough a hair si v Partly fr z a sharp frost , at this s ag add 2 e e e o e ar oz. e ne , or mor if r quir d , of r ast d crumbs , which obtai d R a wo r R o a s t ed by passi ng the crumb o f a stale brown loaf thro ugh a wire si ev e c m s ru b ’ n e n and furth er drying i n a ho t ove . Som co fectioners use the c e th e e e e e to o e e rumbs as pass d through si v , but it is b tt r r ast th m furth r

v as described abo e . PLAIN BI SC UIT I CE

n i ce e e n e en Plai biscuit is pr par d by mixi g with cr am partly froz , a mixture of crush ed ﬁ nger biscuits and alm ond rataﬁas mad e wi th part A e e o r bitter and part sweet ground alm o nds . littl sh rry brandy should be e en n add d wh mixi g . GR EEN - TEA I CE

- 1 o z n i T i e . ee tea n 1 o e e een tea ce . pr par gr cr am , mash of gr pt of b ilin n ro e e o f n n e n 1 o . S g milk trai th ugh a pi c musli i to a sauc pa with pt . f n e n and s o e 9 . e e e e cr am , oz cast r sugar, a pi c of va illa b a , six gg , Whisk e e e o n the sto v e and n n e n n t the e all tog th r, plac , co ti u stirri g u il mixtur and n en en n e to n . ee e e e thick s ; th tra sf r a cold basi Fr z ﬁ ish as r quir d , using a littl e kirsch or maraschino to h eighten ﬂav o

NESS E LR ODE I CE P UDD I NG

For Nesselrode ice pudding prepare a rich custard with the followi ng

1 nt o f 3 e e e 6 . caste r pi milk , gills cr am , ight yolks , two ggs , oz sugar, e e the e on e lem on and s e e nn n four bay l av s , z st of , a mall pi c of stick ci amo . S n ﬁne e e and ee e in t I n the e n e trai through a si v , fr z a sharp fros m a tim O ES ET 5 9 S ES O SS C. UFFL , M U , soak so me e e e e e t e e een e and pi c s of pr s rv d frui s , ch rri s , gr gag s, apricots , h n marron glacé in a mixture of half best Jamaica rum and half marasc i o . the en e and e e e . Mix all with froz cr am , mould as r quir d L ss sugar is e e in ho t e e t n and e no t e r quir d w ath r for his puddi g, it is advisabl to mak t e n the ice too rich wi h liqu ur ; otherwise it will o t set ﬁrm .

PEA R CR EAM I CE

i e n the o o f t ee e e c . For p ar cr am bri g to b il 3; pt milk , with hr bay

e e e e nn n and the e one e n . l av s , a small pi c of stick ci amo , part of z st of l mo

d 5 e 1 an 7 a t r . S n an d . c s e trai , mix with gills cr am , gill milk , oz sugar e the n e e e e e n ne in tin and Tak umb r of pr s rv d p ars usually co tai d a small ,

t e e e e. o e e and n e e . pass h s through a hair si v Mix all t g th r, ﬁ ish as r quir d

CHER R Y C R EAM I C E

i e 8 e e e e c e t e . ee To pr par ch rry cr am with fr sh fruit, ak oz of sw t bright th e e a nd Add one e cherries and pound to a pulp wi p stl morta r. liqu ur h e and in no and e t e e e. glass of yau , forc juic pulp through a hair si v Mix

te r and the e a e n olour e 6 . cas c 1 . pt of cr am , oz of sugar, juic of half l mo ; d n en no t e e so S t ne an . lightly wi h carmi , ﬁ ish quickly Wh it is r quir d rich , tt e e e add custard or part cream and milk to the fruit . Bo l d cherri s will giv e e e e not to be n use t e e a satisfactory r sults wh r fr sh fruit is had , o ly a lit l xtr n en n n in the en in e oyau . Wh usi g hard fruits , pou d mortar, th cook w ak boili ng syrup un til tend er .

HAZ EL- NUT C REAM I CE

- nut e e e e n e ice n roasted e Hazel cr am is pr par d , lik prali é , by usi g haz l n in e n the n e se uts plac of almo ds , with additio of half a liqu ur glass of ro

water. CA RAMEL CR EAM I C E

e n to e o f and Caram el cream is mad by addi g custard , or a mixtur milk

a o and 2 o z f e en e to . e 3 . o cr am , suffici t caram l sug r col ur ﬂavour Plac or n a into e an and e e s e f e n e ici g sug r a copp r p , stir v r a l w ir u til it acquir s a transparent brown colour ; then add su fﬁci ent ho t milk to prev ent its setting

On no n o the n n the e a n. hard . accou t sh uld sugar bur duri g pr p ratio

CHAPTER XVI I

PPLES MO SS ES T SOU E C . , U ,

e ufflés do no t e e ee n in ee e ice n The S r quir fr zi g a fr z r or machi e. mix ture is fro zen for six or eight hours in a se uflflé cav e charged with a sharp s en e e e e e en e e e e fro t, th r mov d , d corat d with oth r froz cr am , pr s rv d ’ S o u ffié s . r t o n o f n ts a nd e e in l e f ui s , or vari us ki ds u , s rv d smal pap r or f e s e s es . e e ar ee e o e Th larg ilv r ca Th r e thr styl s thes ices . e first ki nd are 60 I CES made wh olly of whipped cream ; the second with part whipped whites of eggs and part cream ; and the third of a light sponge made by h eati ng k The n toge ther yo lks of egg and s toc syrup . first ki d is that made mostly n The e f ll w o o s . e in n by English con fectio ers . m thod is as Plac a mixi g n 3 a 1 . . c ster and o 1 . e b wl pt cr am , oz va illa sugar, oz sugar , whisk all n the e e n en n the n n e e . e e tog th r Wh mixtur b gi s to thick , tra sf r to li i g of o n to e a n h s f e e . e e e e coco e i e t e a ou fl cas Dr dg p a littl powd r d , plac a cav te e e t and ice e ou r cas of which is charg d with sal , cov r with a damp cloth ,

wto e n n e e use. and allo r mai u til r quir d for This m ethod is simpl e and n n so ufflés be e the e ff icient . Ma y ki ds of may mad from sam e mixture by the addition of v arious flavours . An e n e does not eat and et e oth r ki d of souffl , which so rich , y giv s satis n e b n to e n e e m the te o f factio , is mad y addi g ach pi t of whipp d cr a whi s n ff A e . S f C r e am a n d six eggs beat to a sti foam this mixture is l ess irm E S o u fflés gg o n e e be necessar e tha that mad with all cr am , it will y to plac e e n the n n th e f e a collar of cartridg pap r rou d li i g of sou fle case. This pap r n n the Th th should be removed whe servi g cream . e smooth sid es of e v h On n frozen mixture will S how abo e t e case . o account must the crea m w e e n e n be e e a d too much hipp d for th s dai ty dish s, as this would curdl it fle e and n I n produce a souf with a butt ry flavour a rugged appeara ce. e e en e n the e e en e and warm w ath r, wh b ati g cr am , hav all ut sils quit cold , , h n — u n d e t e o be ice. if possibl , lay mixi g bowl p a of

SOUFFLE or YOLKS

For th e third ki nd of soufﬂe place in a small ee e olks one e and n fr z r six y , gg, half a pi t of

en t 20 e ee . S o u fflé s o f y o lks syrup at a d si y of d gr s a nd S ’ U S ' Y P After mixi ng th ese ingredients o e e n th e ee e in an n t g th r, sta d fr z r a p of boili g A en n the n water . llow to thick u til it coats spoo ; th en transfer at once to a cold pan . With a light whisk beat th e eggs and syrup togeth er u ntil the mixture b ecom es light lik e S ponge e e n t e en batt r . B at u il quit cold ; th add half a pi nt of whipped cream ; flavour with vanilla s e o r e and set firm in ugar, liqu urs , fruit juic s , Th e e a case lined with a paper collar . abov

f or h e — o ces e e n t e 4. mb M d f or mixtur will giv satisfactio pr para Fig . 1 1 Bo ul I tion of a large vari ety o f soufflés and oth er v ery n S n e e . I t sho wan e en e e en e e light ic s should v t xtur wh cut, r s mbli g a po g cak e . MOULDED MOUSSES

e Corresponding to th e souffle i ce is that k nown as Mou sse. This is mad n e e the e e en abo v e ene l th e M o u s s e accordi g to ith r of r cip s giv (g ral y M OU Id S o 1 14 O n an d e in n in . . last) mould d a bomb mould , as show ﬁg wi g to e e n e e ne e en n n this cr am b i g light, gr at car is c ssary wh tur i g it out WATER I CES AND SORBETS 61

. t h On is e e tO e . n e from mould this accou t ach mould ﬁtt d with a scr w p, e e in s which is asily r moved after dippi ng the mould warm water . Thi a the en e an n th i e d e e c e . llows air to t r, with a littl shaki g glid s out

PAR FAIT SOUFFLES

An e et n n a r ice e in oth r vari y is k ow as P f a i t. This is shap d a mould fe en The n t n n slightly dif r t from that used for the mousse. fou da io co sists e and e e f or souﬂlés and e of gg yolks , syrup pr par d as , mix d with p a rfa i t S °u més e e and e e e For whipp d cr am ﬂavour d with liqu urs or fruit puré s . the e n e m e the e e e e to th e n pr paratio of all ic s ad with cr am r f rr d , followi g

n e w e e en - ﬁv e lk 1 9 qua titi s ill mak a useful bas : tw ty e larg y o s and 5 pt . of s yrup at 20 d egrees .

CHAPTER XVI II

WATER I CE S AND SOR BETS

e AS r efreshing confections water ices are particularly pl easant . Th re is

' n n m r n n a slight diﬂerence i n the sev eral vari eti es . Some co tai o e sweete i g t n o e these e the e are e s mo oth ha th rs ; which hav l ast l ss , W hipp e d W hite s

i n W a t e c e " a nd i n e e e n S e n e ne r I s a way r s mbl s ow . om co f ctio rs add e e e n e e t e not e e whipp d gg whit s to plai wat r ic s , but his do s r ally improv the e n E e s not be e n e e e ati g qualiti es . gg whit s hould add d u l ss r quir d a s e en n en a ch ap i g ag t .

LE MON WATE R I CE

- l T One of the b est k nown water ices is that of emon water . o prepare a e nt in a s n and the e and quart, plac half a pi of stock syrup a b i , add z st e the e e in the an and in juice of three l emons . Plac saccharom t r p mix S n eno ugh wat er to giv e the liquor a d ensity of 1 8 d egrees . trai through m s a nd ee e n s o oth e ice. a hair iev e fr z quickly to obtai a , ﬁrm , cr amy

ORAN GE WATE R I CE

i we e e e n e n e e ce e For a quart of ora g wat r r quir thr ora g s , e n e th e a e n of half a l mo , or a littl citric acid , with s m qua tity

wand ne . and e e wat r . Colour with y llo carmi liquids

TANC E R INE WATE R I CE

e w n e ne use one n e and e To ﬂavour wat r ic s ith ta g ri s , ora g six small

tangerines for each quart .

PINEAP PLE WATER I CE

Pi neappl e water ice is prepared by ﬂav ouring the syrup with fresh nne ne e n e ﬁne in r e e e or ti d pi appl , pou d d a mo tar , or with pr s rv d fruit 62 I CES

wa en the i l nd ce e l e. e n n s puré Colour y lo , wh is r ady for p aci g i to mould , ; e i n in e e in e e- e ec e e e or s rv g pap r cas s , drop som dic shap d pi es of pr s rv d

fruit . PEACH WATER I CE

Flavour p each water with the puré e obtained by passing bruised or e bottled fruits thro ugh the hair si e ve . V ry good p each puré e sho uld s e som e e e are n i b be used for this purpo : vari ti s put dow n glass ottles . e e ee n e and e a o f B for fr zi g , add a littl citric acid half a liqu ur gl ss

kirschwasser . APR ICOT WATER I CE

Another v ery nice refreshing ice is that ﬂavoured with apricot purée n and half a liqueur glass of kirsch or oyau . Colour with yellow and

carmine . MELON WATE R I CE

To prepare m elon water ice remov e the pulp from the i nner ri nd of e e m elon e e and ee a larg rip . Pass this pulp through a hair si v , add thr h n tw n e o f t e o n e gills of syrup , ri ds of ora g s , a glass maraschi o , a littl and suﬂi cient e to m e the e en citric acid , wat r ak mixtur of a d sity of

1 8 d egrees o n the saccharom eter .

STR AWB E RR Y WATE R I CE i t e e ce o e . 1 e S rawb rry wat r is a popular fav urit For this pass lb . of rip t e e n t t e and the frui through a hair si v , add a pi of syrup , a li tl acid , u n e e en 1 8 n the us al qua tity of wat r to produc a d sity of o saccharom eter . n Colour with carmi e .

RASPB E RR Y AND R ED - CUR RANT I CE

Another w ell - kn own ice is that ﬂavoured with raspberri es and red

» 1 . e nd . o f r nt . S e e e a ed curra s Pass through a hair i v lb of raspb rri s , 5 lb n n tock ne o . Add L s , , t the curra ts }, pi t of syrup colour with carmi mix

n f w . en t we a d e usual d sity wi h at r, add a drops of citric acid

CHER R Y WATER I CE

For cherry water ice obtain th e ﬂa v ouring by pounding fresh or bottled e e the o e e and ch rri s, pass pulp thr ugh a tammy or a hair si v , mix with n n S en a nd o u O au and the e e e . y , syrup , c ssary wat r harp with citric acid c lo r ne with carmi .

SOR E ET

r t e Another vari ety of water ice is know n as so bet. This is mos ly mad The e are m e e and en e e e no . with l ss syrup , froz rough to r s mbl s w ic s so

e e to e e in l e o r e t n e e . tim s mad s rv smal glass s , ﬂav u d s ro gly with choic liqu urs These are generally handed roun d at the di nner- tabl e before the roast is serv ed .

64 I CES

CHAPTER XIX

MOULDE D I CES A ND P UDDI NGS

Mouldi ng ices is not a difﬁcult task ; but wh en two or three ki nds of frozen cream or water e are e o ne P re p a ri n g mixtur add d to mould ,

M ° Uld 3 f ° f I °°S ' caution is necessary to k eep each For th colour distinct. this purpose e moulds be e e e n and e should quit cold b for usi g , for som purp oses it is advisabl e to partly bury them in n ice and e n som e ﬁnely brok e salt . This pr cautio is essen tial when lining a bomb or other mould with a thi n layer of water ice before ﬁlling the

centre with a light mousse . — 1 1 6. La e I ce Mo d Fig. rg ul NE APOLI TAN I CES

For the preparation of these ices it is necessary to use a mould as n f n n 1 1 6. e e ee e e o e e are e in shown i ﬁg . G rally thr dif r t c lour d ic s plac d e th e en e e O rd e r o f L ay e r s lay rs to ﬁll mould , which is th cov r d with a sharp i n M °“1d n frost . Withi t wo hours the ice cream will be ro en and e f z hard , r ady for turn ing out from the mould and cutti ng i nto con v eni ent e n pi eces . Plac each i to a e n e N apolita pap r, or shallow and e e on n n box , s rv a apki I e e . t or dish pap r is advisabl , when using o ne water and two cream ices for th ese e e moulds , to plac a lay r of the o e in th e en e f rm r c tr of —N Fi . 116 ea o itan I ce M o d g . p l ul the e a s two cr ams, this m ethod enables the fro zen mixture to be cut into pieces more easily than i h if water ce is placed at t e bo ttom .

— BOMB DAHOMEY I CE BOMB E DAHOMEENNE

e e th e ice m e enne ne o e To pr par Bo b Dahomé , li a mould with ch colat cream ; ﬁll th e cen tre with a rich prali née cream mad e according to th e e e e e t e e o f e on the T a kin g I c e s third r cip ; cov r ov r wi h a pi c pap r , ﬁx lid ,

“0 m M °“ld s ° n d v r n A to a co e the mould wi th a stro g frost . llow this e n f o r f ou r en e e the n e and r mai hours ; th r mov mould , dip i to warm wat r , h n turn t e cream out o a dish . MOU LD E D I CE S

Pineapple I ce.

a o o at and Pis o Fancy Sh p e mad e with Ch c l e tachi Cream I ces . I n ce P uddi g .

C mtes a o se M rie I ce.

M e I ix d ce. Fancy Sh ap es co nsisting o f Lemon Water I ce with Orange

Cream centre . B f 7 . undle o Asparagu s.

O E I ES AND I S 5 M ULD D C PUDD NG 6 .

MELON I CE PUDDING

An oth er very nice shape is mad e in a m elon ne the mould (fig. Li mould with pistachio e ice and in the en t e t m elon t cr am , fill c r wi h wa er ice,coloured pi n k a nd mixed with som e thin filleted

n . en e n o n and almo ds Wh r ady , tur out a dish decorate with tendrils and green l eaves made with

e . — F 1 1 . MeIo n I ce Mo d pull d sugar ig . 7 ul — B RAZ ILIAN I CE GLAC E B R ES ILIEN

ice e the e e e e e ee n e This is mad shap of a pi c of Gruy r ch se. Li e a sp cial e e ee e e e in the en e mould shap d lik a small ch s with chocolat cr am , fill c tr n e and co v er t ice and a with va illa cr am , wi h s lt for two hours . — PINEAP PLE I CE GLACE ANANAS 1 1 8 Fill a pineapple mould (fig. ) with a rich cream e e e e n n with which small pi c s of fruit hav b e mixed . Whe e n on o n n een r ady, tur out a dish , fix top a bu ch of gr e - e e and e the e e e pull d sugar l av s , cov r sid s with small y s mad e by touching the ice with a sk ewer dipped in caram el Fl ‘e g ’ app n h ee t e e I S . and carmi e . (S plat of MOULDED C E ) itigififlz

- I TALIAN . I CE GLACE I TALIEN

ne ne e e ice and in t ffee Li a bomb mould with pi appl wat r , ﬁll wi h co n he e e cream mad e accordi g to t third r cip for so uﬂlés (see p .

GLACE LE MOGADOR

n f n c e Li e a charlotte mould with cof ee cream . Fill i with apri ot wat r ice and en t ne on e e , , wh ur d out a dish , d corat with chopp ed roaste d almonds and pistachio

nut. GLACE COMTESSE MAR IE i 1 1 9 Prepare a square ce mould (fig . ) with e o r n e e n e in n p ach ora g wat r, arra g this a thi e and in so ufllé e lay r, fill with a light mixtur

e . en e n ﬂavour d with kirsch Wh r ady , tur out on a silver dish ; ornam ent the tOp with small e s and e e n n o n ﬂow r l av s . Fi ish by pipi g a i ee e e n e ce . S bord r with va illa cr am ( plat of Mo uld S MOULDED I CE . ) GLAC E CR ON STADT

Cov er the i nsid e of a bomb m o uld with apricot water ice ; ﬁll in

e n e . ee e ee with rich mouss ﬁlli g , ﬂavour d with kirsch Fr z solid for thr ra t e e hours ; then turn out and deco e with crush d viol ts . V OL . . II 66 I CES

AP R IC OT PLOMB IE R E

ne . PlombI ere 1 2 Li a mould (ﬁg. 0) with apricot e i ce ﬁll in the en e n e e cr am , c tr with apricot co s rv , e e e m and set i n cov r with a lay r of cr a , a sharp frost

ee . en e e e e for thr hours Wh dish d , s rv with a sauc e an mad with apricot pulp d kirsch .

TUTTI - F RUTTI GLA0E

e n e n e e s Trim som ﬁ g r biscuits, spri kl som kir ch e e and ne n e . ov r th m , li a plai charlott mould Fill w e n t e e e n e e a nd ith al r at lay rs of l mo wat r, strawb rry , n e e e e ui t va illa cr am ic s, with a lay r of mix d fr s , cur n i i n and e e een the ice ra ts , ra s s , chopp d apricots b tw e e in the ice lay rs . Plac cav e to set ﬁrm before servi ng.

—P 10mbiére Mo d Fig . 1 20. ul The mixed fruit sh o uld be soa ked in maraschino and r n kirsch p ior to usi g.

BISCUIT I MP ER IAL GLACE

The most suitabl e utensils for the preparation of th ese choice ices are a e o en e n e the o o and an ice e u squar wo d box with a small hol ar b tt m , cav abo t i e n e ee o n the to ee i n 3 n . s e r e mall r to plac i sid , with a d p collar r u d bo d r k p

n e b e r m . h S o . s all s ufﬁ t e . e é a e be e frost mall oblo g pap r ox s, c s s , may us d h . e ee 2 for the biscuits Pr pare as follows . T r gills of syrup (at 0 d egrees e e and e e are e n n e e as by saccharom t r) tw lv yolks mad i to a rich spo g batt r,

r h ufﬁ h u and di ected in t e third recipe for so és. Charge t e square t b cave e e th e co v er and in n the nu e with a sharp frost ; r mov , lay positio mb r of

e e e e . e e be e e e small pap r box s as r quir d Th s should laid clos tog th r, with a thin wood or zinc baton placed on eith er side to pre vent the cream from n e e e som e e e n n and flowi g ov r . Pr par whipp d cr am , thi it with va illa syrup r d e n the eac e e n an o . ma aschi o, pour a littl to bottom of h pap r box Tak the e e n t and to som e part of gg mixtur ; flavour stro gly wi h kirsch, add it l n h ed e . a so t e e e e whipp cr am Pour this i to pap r cas s . This cr am should h - h ns cover t e shallow box es entirely and half way up the sides of t e bato . o e e and f r tw h n e e e o o set in t e e C v r ov r, l av hours to firm ; m a tim flavour the e n e th e e n e e r mai d r of biscuit cr am with maraschi o, add som whipp d e and n n in the e e e e. cr am , colour a d licat ti t with carmi Fill fram s with

n e and co v er e n e the ne e n . en this spo g , ov r u til r ady for xt op ratio Wh e e e the e the e e e the batons quit ﬁrm , r mov ic s from cav , s parat from with h n n e e e a d out e . e e a s arp k if , ach biscuit apart D corat with crush d viol ts or nd I n ea n a e n the e nt e e f or use. pistachio , r tur to cav u il r quir d st d of usi g e n e n be en n the n red te viol ts, a ic ﬁ ish may giv by maski g tops with thi wa r we

68 I CES — DUTC H BISCUITS BI SCUITS HOLLANDAI SES

e e so uffle e e n e e Prepar som small cas s , plac rou d ach a collar of whit ' a er ﬁll in e e and e in p p , with a biscuit cr am ﬂavour d with kirsch , plac a

a nd e f or ee . en e some e ice in tub cav thr hours Wh quit ﬁrm , pour wat r (

- n n n e a semi frozen co ditio ) o each . Plac away to remain ten minutes f or n set en e e the n the cov eri g to ; th r mov paper ba ds and serv e. ,

FO RCED TAN GER INES

n e - e n e ne ut the e Obtai som small bright colour d ta g ri s . C top of ach - n n e the n an tea i . e e e e d with a g plai cutt r, r mov cut pi c of ri d , with a small he n e e n e sp o on remov e t pulp from i sid . Plac th ese away i to a cav e charg d and ee e e e t n e n the e e e m ice. en with frost, proc d to pr par som a g ri cr a Wh cas s

e en e e the e and n - and n e hav froz , r mov from cav , with a forci g bag plai tub he e e i e e the e n in o n ﬁll each with t pr par d c . Plac small pi ce of ri d p sitio to co v er the o e e e n e e e e en and h l , and s rv at o c ; or d corat ach with a small t dril green leaf made with pulled sugar .

SMALL PEAC H I CES

Small peach ices are mad e by lining small peach - shaped moulds with Th n e in peach water ice coloured a v ery pal e green . e ce tre is fill d with e e e and en n e in caram l cr am flavour d with kirsch , froz for thirty mi ut s a n the e e and e sharp frost . Tur ic s out with warm wat r, colour ach by touchi ng the sides with a musli n bag contai ning a mixture of po wd ered n n e e r e e e and carmine a d cor flour . Th r a e a larg vari ty of both larg small fancy moulds with which som e v ery n eat and natural shapes may be prepared and dished o n sugar or no ugat stands ; or stands may be pre e ee n e e in t e m in e par d by fr zi g colour d wat r sui abl oulds , which cas , of

e e a re e ice n . cours , th y r ally sta ds

PUNC H A LA ROMAINE

n R n e 1 e n e ice en For Pu ch a la omai e prepar qt. of l mo wat r at a str gth in ne 9 and o e I n 1 6 e ee . of d gr s . Mix pt of champag , 2 gill of rum , s m talia m eringue mad e with two whites and a little boil ed syrup . Whisk all e e e e n i e the e too ee and e e tog th r ; add xtra l mo j u c if mixtur is sw t , s rv at n e in n o c small fa cy glasses . Anoth er recipe for the preparation of this punch is as follows : o ne n en e n e o f n pi t of froz l mo wat r, 5 gill curacoa, Agill of bra dy, g gill of rum , and t e I n n e S e e e n n on een a lit l talia m eri gu . om cat r rs add a stro g i fusi of gr t a in e addition to the oth er ingredi ents referred to. HORS D ’ (EUVRES

C H A P T E R X X

H ORS D ’ (EUVR ES

A great many bak e rs and confectioners hav e fou nd a proﬁtabl e outl et f or capita l and energy in op ening restauran ts and in catering for social

As e e en - n t n . e e e en fu c io s a rul , v middl class p opl wh R e s t a ur a nt a n d O U td °°f C a t e n th ey wish to entertai n fri ends o n any extensive scal e ri g prefer to place the whol e arrangements in the hands of a competent caterer rather than end eavour to do all the work wi th the ordinary The te e e the e ho usehold staff . ca r r suppli s whol plant and all the service e n and en e n n and e the o e no e t e for pr paratio for t rtai i g, giv s h st ss gr at roubl n the e e e n wh e t o t e n exc p payi g v ry mod rat bill which is rule . This bra ch o f the ne e ee n ramiﬁed and no t the n en n in the busi ss is xc di gly , it is i t tio present wo rk to supply eith er a complete cook ery book or complete n n l e e en Th n n n t n te . e i struc io s, say , for co ducti g a arg r sid tial ho l fu ctio s u nd ertaken by the baki ng and confectionery trad es are roughly divi ded i n to n The e t n ne h two quite distinct bra ches . r s aura t busi ss may be of t e light e e en in the n e are r fr shm t sort , which via ds provid d usually cold ; or it may

in n e ar s e n e e e e . O e be a r staura t pr p r, which substa tial m als provid d ut id

e n be n ne n n e e n a t cat ri g may co ﬁ d to fu ctio s, such as formal r c ptio s , which n e e en a re e e e n n o ly light r fr shm ts provid d , or light supp rs r quiri g o ly cold be e e n e n e n nne snacks ; or it may so laborat as to i clud full lu ch o s or di rs . All these function s will be d ealt wi th in due course ; but as followi ng on

m the e e n e e s and ee the e n fro m thods of pr paratio of d ss rt sw ts, pr paratio he e n o r nne e n of substantial dish es for t r staura t di r tabl will ﬁrst be giv e . ’ He rs oe e a re en n e n en e d uvr s comm ci g dish s i t d d to ’ H e rs d CE uv res . e are e e o n wh et the appetite . Th y usually s rv d small

es one e e o n . plat , to ach p rs

HUITR ES AU NATUR EL

H u ttr es a u Na tu r al are oysters serv ed i n their sh ells (eith er the d eep the e o e and o be e the or the ﬂat sh ell ; latt r is m st us d) , sh uld provid d at n ut n n rate of four for ladi es and ﬁv e for gentl em e . C a l emo i to eight

and e one e e in the en e e e t the e parts , plac pi c c tr of ach plat wi h oy st rs n S e n e and t e e e e o e rou d it. lic s of brow br ad bu t r, ith r fold d or r ll d , must be serv ed with th em . LAx S UR C ROUT ES

La m s ur Cr e ates are slices of salmon preserved in oil o n cro htes o f short

e n o n e es a nd n e e s e and past , cut i t ﬁ g r shap , gar ish d with chopp d par l y hard boiled y olk of egg passed through a siev e.

CANA P E A LA ZANZ I BA R

Tak e som e small diamond - sh a ped water biscuits and spread ov er them n ﬁ en e e t e m n i t e . n a thi n layer of chu y Whi p suf ci t cr am to cov r h m , ixi g 7 0 MENU DI SHES

the e e e e ne e e and with cr am a littl grat d hors radish , vi gar, p pp r , salt to t e en e e e e set en e e ast ; add just ough m lt d aspic j lly to mak it , th spr ad it ov r n La e n n the e . a d e chut y y small strips of smok d salmo across , a cap r

e een e . on e one e e n b tw ach two rows Dish small cr ss, to ach p rso .

SMOKED SALMON— SAUMON FUME

’ ’ Sa u m on Fu m e e n e d eeu v r e e Je . is smok d salmo , a favourit h rs with ws Cut i n e n S e and e e o n n on v ry thi lic s , dish ith r a mou d of small salad or e S e n e and e n n crout s . lic s of brow br ad butt r should accompa y it if ot n e served o crout s .

— BOLOGNE SAUS AGE SAUC I SSON DE BOLOGNE

Sa u ci sson s de B ologn e are thin slices of Bo logne sa usage dished neatly in th on e . O e e be e e e e a lay r of small salad th r sausag s may s rv d sam way , such n e n 8 m e the n e be e e as Lyo s, G rma , , but of cours am must alt r d accord in l g y . CR OUTES A LA ROSAMONDE

n es and in in h i e e e . . n Tak som small rou d tomato , cut slic s t ick Lay il n n m a nd n e o e e e a d . en e so e a dish , spri kl with , vi gar, p pp r, salt Th mak round croutes of short paste a little larger than the tom ato ; place o ne slice on e e e n o on the and n of tomato ach, a roll d ﬁll t of a ch vy top, gar ish with

- and o f n hard boiled yolk of egg a small pi ece white e div e.

HUITR ES AU CAVIAR

‘ H u i tres a n Ca vi ar are oysters on thin slices of lemon spread with on e e e and e o n e o ne caviar a crout of fri d br ad or pastry , dish d small cr ss , n o each plate. CR ouTES A LA BUR LINGTON — Cr eates it la B u r li ngton are oval shaped croutes spread with som e

ﬁnel - o e en in e n e y ch pp d chick Tartar sauc , gar ish d with a strip of tomato f v e in n and e e a nd e o te . whipp d cr am , a stuf d oli cut half p

CRofITES AUX OLIVES FA RCIES

e e are ff e e e e o n o u e e Th s stu d oliv s s rv d cr t s of short crust , spr ad with

- n e and n e e and e e . a chovy past , gar ish d with hard boil d yolk whit of gg

TAR TINES DE CAVIAR

Ta rti n es ole Ca vi ar are small sandwich es of brown bread and butter d n e R n . e are n n e an e spr ad with ussia caviar Th y cut i to fa cy shap s , gar ish d n with pieces of l emo and parsl ey .

CAVIAR SUR CR o UTES

R n e on ﬁn er- e croﬁtes and e n This is ussia caviar spr ad g shap d , pip d rou d h t e e e e . I n s dg with butt r t is dish ed o small cre s .

7 2 M ENU DISHES

L t e en ﬁv en . e e t d to cloud it it simm r g tly for hours . Th en cut up 5 t 2 t n 7 e - e n n 1 e e e and carro s , ur ips , m dium siz d o io s, good h ad of c l ry , add 3 e e e e t n e e 3 e e blad s of mac , a d ss r spoo ful of whol allspic , of black p pp r, a f w t e 2 e and e 6 e e e n sprigs of hym , clov s of garlic, bay l av s ; plac all i to the and n the en let e e e 1 pot , bri g to boil ; th simm r as b for for 3; hour. N ext ' n i nto ﬂa t n and e in strai through a cloth dry pa s , plac a cool place for n d e h e use . e e o ne an t e n n r futur This, b i g s as d colour d is fou datio or g avy e wi n e Juli e n n e a n d C l e a r soup , as it is call d , from h ch a good ma y cl ar soups

o x ' T a il S ° s ~ up r n he u a e made . For ordi ary S p se the above soup is

ene e e a s Ju li en n e n the n and clea r ox - ta i g rally s rv d by addi g gar ish , as l by x - and n adding pieces of cook ed e tail v egetabl es . For di ner parti es a much n e e e and ne e roceed w stro g r soup is r quir d , it is c ssary to p as follo s .

CON SOMME A LA JULIENNE

a ee the ne e 2 . o ut Tak lb of gr vy b f, cut all si ws , pass through a mincing ne n t 2 1 n 2 n n and 1 ee i machi alo g wi h carrots , tur ip , o io s , l k . Put all n a wo e the e t . e 5 . e bowl with whit s of ggs Tak qt of stock or gravy , pr viously

e m and e e into e n and ee mad , just war this , stir all tog th r ; put a st wpa , k p R m h n n . e e t e e the e a nd n n stirri g u til it boils ov to sid of stov , co ti ue

e n 2 en n e n an e simm ri g for % hours ; th strai through a cloth , r movi g y gr ase by laying pi eces of ki tch en paper o n tep ; season wi th salt ° and a littl e n n o wbe Th e . e u h sugar co sommé should of a cl ar bright colour . C t t e w the n red t o e n and ee in n part of carrots , sam qua tity of tur ips , two l ks thi d n n n e n 2 o w . shreds a go i ch lo g ; put i to a st wpa ith oz of butter and a pinch of sugar ; stir ov er the ﬁre until of a nice light bro wn colour ; moisten n mmé and e en an T the ce se . en n e with , simm r g tly for half hour mi ut s e e e n som e e e e and e e e n b for s rvi g add shr dd d cabbag l ttuc , pr viously bla ch ed n in n e n e e f e w by lyi g boili g wat r for a mi ut simm r for a more minutes ; d e e e o ff the e an . tak butt r, s rv

CON SOMME A LA JAR DINIERE

Tak e two carrots and two turnips ; scrape and wash and c ut into fancy ut the te e shapes with c utters . C firm whi h ad of a cauliflower into small fl were tes n e n e m in n o t e f o r t e , bla ch th m by placi g th boili g wat r hre or

n e n and n 3 . n and e f o r four mi ut s, strai put i to qt of co sommé , simm r thirty minutes ; th en add the white l eav es of two l ettuces stamped o ut with a en e an d f w t e th e e S e e e n and e cu t r siz of a ixp c , a l av s of tarrago ch rvil .

n n e boilin un e e are C e . e e en n to e e in Co ti u g til th s ook d B for s di g tabl , plac th e en f ween e e o e n e e e e and e e . tur a gr p as pr viously c ok d ; s aso to tast , s rv

CON SOMME A LA B RUNOI SE

e e n a J enne out the e e e r Pr par as for Co sommé la uli , but v g tabl s (car ots, n ee and en e n n e and e in an tur ips,l ks , Fr ch b a s) i to small dic , fry th m a p to l - n colour an n e e e n and a ight brow with ou c of fr sh butt r, a pi ch of sugar, a in he n . e . t and n the e e e are d n o e. littl salt Throw co sommé , boil u til v g tabl s R e o e th e e and e m v butt r, serv . PREPARATI ON OF SOUP S 7 3

SP R IN G SOUP m CONSOMME A LA P R I NTANI ERE

e e Jardim ere n th e e e e f e w e e e Pr par as for , addi g to v g tabl s a sorr l l av s e e the e e and e in the een the ea the stamp d out lik l ttuc , plac tur with p s e an e e l sam qu tity of asparagus h ads pr vious y cooked .

CON SOMME A LA CHIFF ONADE

Re e the e n en an n d i e o o . mov ﬁll ts of two you g chick s , boil som g od st ck o the e n e the en ne and the n Ch p r mai d r of chick bo s, mix with clariﬁcatio (as

for Juli enne) ; simm er for 2 }7 hours and strain ; then add the white leav es e e e f we e e e e n a nd e of two cabbag l ttuc s, a l av s of sorr l , a littl tarrago ch rvil , ﬁn d e e e e e e . n an o e e o n and e e. a littl c l ry, all shr dd d Boil u til c ok d , s as , s rv be en ee e e Care should tak to k p this soup of a d licat ﬂavour.

’ CON S OMME A LA D ESCLI GNAC

Break into a basin six yolks of eggs with a littl e p epper and salt ; beat e e e n en o f ns tog th r for a s co d or two ; th add a gill cold liquid co ommé , pour

nt n te e and e n - e e e n con i o a plai but r d mould , plac i to a tightly cov r d st wpa n Re e th e h tai ning 1 inch of boili g water . mov to side of t e stove so as to

n n - n n th a k eep just u d er boili g poi t (as by boili g e cust rd curdl es) . Leav e n in the en e en n S e t e u til it is ﬁrm c tr ; wh cold , cut i to hap s , mix wi h squar s

o f e n and n . cook d tur ip , add to co sommé

— CLEAR SOUP WITH CUSTAR D CON SO MME A LA ROYALE

’ la R o a le the e e n h n Con som me ct t e . y is sam as abov , omitti g tur ip

CON SOMME AUX PR OFITER OLES

I . n e e e e see . a d in Tak a littl p tit chou or éclair mixtur ( Vol , p stir

e e n e . e o n n e wa e e e e a littl grat d Parm sa ch s Pip this out a baki g sh t , ith and e in e e the e o f e and e en bag small tub , pi c s about siz p as , bak to a gold e t a re n n the co nsemmé the n e colour . Th es li tl e balls throw i to at last mi ut . n nd are I f e on in the e e e e a e e . k pt too l g soup , th y b com sodd , , of cours , spoil d — CLEA R SOUP WITH QuE NELLEs CON S OMME Aux QUENELLES

’ Con som m e a u x uen elles in n o e s ue Q has, its ordi ary f rm , v ry mall q ’ F r Co n som me d e i bi r ' ne e e e en ee e . o G e a ua: ll s ith r of chick , b f, or v al I t u en elles e ene e o f e be e . be n Q , of cours , qu ll s gam must us d will fou d

e e e e s n . S e o ne s n n e b st to shap th m with two t a poo s pr ad poo With a k if , and the o e o n e o s e in e e in h the with th r spo , pr vi u ly dipp d hot wat r, divid alf one is e e on an o e t n e o and that spr ad ; plac a sauté p , c v r wi h boili g cl ar st ck ,

simm er for ﬁv e minutes . — CLEA R VE RMICELLI SOUP CON SOMME AU VE RMIC ELLE

2 e e e n o the en t e e a nd e in e . Tak oz v rmic lli , br ak it i t l g hs r quir d , plac it

n e n n e o n f o r ﬁv e n te en e n s n boili g wat r. Co ti u b ili g mi u s , th thr w i to a ba i 2 n n o e n a nd . the of c ld wat r, strai put with qt of co sommé ; bri g to boil , V L 1 O . 1 7 0 7 4 MENU DISHES

m o ff an t se to the and e en n the ski y fro h that may ri top , simm r g tly u til be e e e e n v ermicelli is cook ed . This soup should s rv d with grat d Parm sa c heese se rved o n a separate plate .

C LEAR MACA R ONI SOUP - CON S OMME AU MACA R ONI

be e e in the e th e e e n n n This should pr par d sam way as pr c di g, o ly addi g h n te and e an e e to the boiling of t e macaro i a pat of but r a littl salt d p pp r .

- n ee e n I t will tak e abo ut thirty ﬁv e mi utes to cook . Ch s should accompa y n n t n this also ; i n fact it should accompa y a y soup hat has a gar ish of paste.

CON SOMME A LA L ELIE

e in th e een e e e en e on Plac tur som shr dd d chick , carrot, a littl tarrag the e s e and o e S e e n e n . on pr viou ly cook d , s m hr dd d bla ch d almo ds Pour boili ng consem mé and serve .

CON S OMME POMPADOUR

n n and Cut som e carrots and turnips i to small fa cy S hapes . Cook mix

i t e e te e e and o e a W h som small shap s of s am d whit s y lk of gg, as for la R e n o n the n n o m f o r the te and oyal (havi g ly half amou t of co s m é whi s) ,

h e e. e c olo ur a littl e o f each before steaming . Keep t e colours v ry pal Plac m a ll into a tureen and pour on boiling co nse mé.

CON S OMME A LA PR IN CESSE

’ Con som m e a la P r i n cesse con tains small qu enelles of chick en which h n n h e een e the e en t e e & c . av b mad from fill ts of two chick s , bo s, , havi g been used wi th th e clar ification and reduced u ntil a good chicken flavour is S n and the ene e e n e pro duced . trai add to qu ll s som fa cy shap s of carrots

f eween e . a nd turnips and a gr p as

CON S OMME A LA PA LESTINE

This has a garnish of J erusal em artichok es (cut i n to small balls wi th a

v egetabl e scoop) previously coo k ed a nd placed in the tureen .

CON S OMME A LA VALETTA

This h as a garnish of slices of Tangerine oranges and shredded peel

h e e be en e e . o f t e sam . Car should tak to r mov all pips

CON S OMME A LA NIVER NAI SE

e o o e n e e the e an e and o Tak two g od carr ts , shap i to pi c s siz of oliv , b il ut f n n o . C S n nd n o 3 t . o f or ten m i nutes . trai a throw i t q boili g co s mmé wa and e in t an o f thre e turnips in th e sam e y plac a sau é p with a pat n S e e th e ﬁre n o f o en - n butter and a pi ch of sugar. hak ov r u til a g ld brow n c olour ; put also in co nsommé and simm er gently u n til they are d o e .

se s o and e in een e rem o v C ook som e v ery small Brus l spr uts plac a tur , aft r I f the i ng the butter from th e su rf ace of th e consommé season and serve . '

e o e v er sm all ene e e s he e . p ric all ws, som y qu ll s of gam hould add d

7 6 MENU DI SHES — CLEA R GAME SOUP CONSOMME DE GIB IE R

e s n and o ne th R emo ve the ﬁll ets of two ph a a ts partridge. Chop e

e n e a nd e in e n 1 . e b e 2 r mai d r up plac a st wpa , with oz of fr sh utt r, carrots , n n and 1 ee e e ﬁre f ewn 1 n 1 e tur ip, o io , l k ; brais ov r a brisk for a mi ut s,

h e n 4« n n h s n t e e . t e tirri g all tim ; th add qt co sommé , bri g all to boil , skim h th t e en I n the and remov e to t e side of e stov e o simm r g tly for two hours . m ean tim e mak e som e v ery small quenell es fro m the ﬁllets and place in t een e f o r use n the and e e a ur r ady ; strai soup , , if r quir d , clarify with two es o f e ne e eas n and on whit ggs, add a wi glassful of good sh rry , s o , pour to An th e qu enelles i n the tureen. y oth er gam e may be prepared in the same a wy as above. — THIC K TOMATO SOUP PU R EE DE TOMATEs

e e n and n n e e Tak two ach of carrots , tur ips , o io s ; slic with a littl ham 2 z n in e n t o . and f w S a d place a st wpa wi h of butter a e parsl ey roots . tir e the ﬁre t en n e en 2 t and 1 0 e e ov r for mi ut s ; th add q . of stock rip tomato s . Boil gently for two and a half hours ; th en pass thro ugh a hair si eve ; e n the e n and e e t e e n and r tur to st wpa , , if r quir d , add a lit l roux s aso ,

serve . — THIC K MOC K TUR TLE SOUP POTAGE TOR TUE FAUSS E

’ nd h n an n e e a e e t e e d . the Tak a calf s h ad r mov scalp , to gu , brai Chop n and e th e in e n n n remai d er up plac with scalp a larg oval pot co tai i g 6 qt . d on n e e n en n t the t n e an e e . of wat r, c ti u simm ri g g tly u il scalp is d r This

and e n . will tak e about two hours . Lift out plac o a dish Press and place n n Let the e n e nt n e n n in a cool place u til wa ted . r mai d r co i u boili g for o e I n the e n e n and e in n 6 4 hour . m a tim strai plac a braisi g pot carrots , n n 3 n 1 e e e 2 e 2 o e 2 e e o io s, tur ips , h ad of c l ry , clov s of garlic , cl v s , bay l av s,

f w e e 1 o z . z . 2 e e e e e o blad s of mac , a whol spic , black p pp r, basil , 5 mar e and l e h 7 b. . e e . e e t joram , 5 oz thym , som slic d ham , of butt r Plac pot over a brisk fire and continu e stirr ing until of a nice go ld en - brown co lour ; n R h then stir this i n to the stock and boil for o e hour. emov e to t e sid e n I t be o f the n en a nd add suffici en t brown roux to thick e . should co sist cy n on e n t n e . a e of a hi sauc Boil for half hour l g r, th pass through a tammy t n n e e n e o n the fire and n the o remo v clo h i to a oth r st wpa ; plac bri g to b il , in and n o n the e e an e the g all scum , sta d stov sid to allow y fat to com to R e n n n and e to . e the e e e p mov fat , th add s aso i g half a bottl of sh rry, also t n T n n e e e e n t in e e a lit l e l emo juice . e mi ut s b for s rvi g hrow pi c s of scalp

- - c t n o l in and f w m at . e e ee e u i t g . squar s a for balls — THIC K OX- TAIL SOUP POTAGE AUX QUEUEs DE BCE UF

e x - and n e 1 in n — the e Tak two good o tails cut i to pi ec s about . lo g larg e e n e n n an pi c s of course must be divided i to four . Plac i to a braisi g p with 4 2 n 3 n n 1 e e e e carrots, small tur ips , o io s , h ad of c l ry, a littl basil , mar and e n e 2 e e 2 e o f e and joram , thym , a ha dful of parsl y, bay l av s, blad s mac , m e e e n . e and e . e e som black p pp rcor s, 3; lb butt r, a thick slic of ham Giv th o n ﬁ and e re en n 4 . a go d braisi g ov r a sharp ; th stir i to qt of good stock , PREPARATI ON OF SOUPS 7 7

n n th m t n n n h e e e e e. t a d t e simm r g tly u til a is thoroughly do Lif out , ﬁ ish as t e t n the e Add e o n soup for mock tur l (omi ti g sh rry) . a t aspo ful of mush o o e a nd ne in the n e r m k tchup a small glass of port wi . Put at last mi ut the e e and e e e e e e e pi c s of tail som mix d v g tabl s pr viously cook d .

— THI CK GR OUS E SOUP POTAGE AUX Coos DE BR UYERE

e o o e and o e . en e e e the e t Tak f ur gr us r ast th m Wh cook d , r mov all m a the nes the e be e in e n o f e from bo , latt r to plac d a st wpa with a glass sh rry , an n n t e e e 3 e 2 o e e and o io , a carrot, a lit l c l ry , clov s, shall ts, a blad of mac , a e th r sprig of thym e . Simm er th es ov er e fi e for a quarter of an hour ; th en f or t o n n in 2 . o e w e e pour qt of good st ck , simm r hours , th strai . Whil this e n ne ee t e n e in the is b i g do , cook thr abl spoo fuls of ric a good stock ; mix e e e the et be nt e n the m at with it ( xc pt fill s, which must cut i o dic to go i to en n e and n in t en the e soup wh fi ish d) , pou d a mortar ; h add to stock mad n ten n es n th o the e . o e e t en fr m bo s B il for mi ut , stirri g all tim ; h pass e e e n and e en through a hair si v or tammy cloth ; s aso , add a gill of cr am ; th serve . — THICK PAR TR IDGE SOUP POTAGE AUX PE RDR EAUX

f e e e e n d e e. I e Pr par as for abov , substituti g partri g s for grous d sir d , small qu enelles of gam e may be add ed to these soups . This addition m akes n a go od ﬁ ish . — PHEA SANT SOUP POTAGE AUX FAI S ANs

This is made in the sam e way as for grouse soup .

— RAB B IT SOUP P OTAG E AUX LA PE R EAU

th n n the e . e e a d Ro wo . en o ne e e as t t rabbits Wh d , r mov m at Chop bo s

e s n n n t e e e e boil th m with a carrot , a mall o io , a tur ip , a lit l thym , som parsl y , d e an en n and e e an 3 . a blad of mac , qt of good whit stock for hour ; th strai add the po unded m eat and half a cup of pearl barl ey which has been S e the e en n te previously cook ed for the purpo se . imm r whol for tw ty mi u s ;

s o o e s n and . e . th en pa s thr ugh a tammy cl th ; s a o , add 5 pt of cr am — HA R E SOU P POTA G E DE LIEV R E

- in n and n e es . e e t Tak e a good sized hare cut i to pi c Plac a st wpa , wi h

2 o n n e e e i e 2 e e e 2 carrots, io s , a h ad of c l ry , a spr g of thym , bay l av s , a blad s e - n and . e . e o e 3 e , 9 lb butt r Fry all th of a light brow col ur ; of mac , clov s ; o f f e and en t n ne sprinkl e a handful lour ov r , moist wi h half a pi t of port wi ; n the e en th en add 3 qt . of good stock ; bri g to boil ; simm r g tly for two as es h e o ut hours taki ng care to remov e the butter it com to t e top . Tak the p i eces of hare wh en don e ; pu t the be st pi eces aside and pou nd the th n e e in the n remaind er ; th en stir e pou d d m at soup agai , pass through

e o n and e e e e e. a tammy cloth , s as , add pi c s of har k pt back for this purpos

f e e e can be e o . I d esir d , small forc m at balls add d to this s up 7 8 MENU DISHES

— OX -CHEEK SOU P POTAGE A LA HESS E

e e o x - n the e e es e l tt n Pr par as for tail soup , addi g to v g tabl som sma l bu o h Onions and pi eces of t e ox ch eek .

' — P R INCE OF WALE s SOU P POTAC E A LA PR I NCE DE GALLE s

- e ene e e e . This is mock turtl soup , with qu ll s of v al add d — QUEEN SOU L PUR E»; A LA REINE

Tak e two fowls and boil for an h o ur in chick en stock with a little v ege the e and n h n R e e t e e e t e e e. tabl e . mov ﬁll ts pou d r mai d r wi h som boil d ric R e n the o ne en t e tur to stock , boil for hour, th pass hrough a tammy , mak h o t e n and e e t . S e , s aso , add a gill of cr am to ach quar of soup mall dic of e n fried br ad should accompa y th ese soups .

POTAGE A LA BONNE FEMME

2 in e n . e . en e e e e e e Put oz of butt r a st wpa Wh m lt d , add four l ttuc l av s nd n e e e e nn S h a e e. e t e a ha dful of sorr l , pr viously shr dd d as for Juli tir ov r

fire ten n e n 2 . o an for mi ut s ; the add qt of go d chicken broth ; boil for h o ur. R m h fir and emove fro t e e add eight yolks of eggs mixed with 5 pt. of h r . an n h e t e fi e e 1 e e d a . S t e cr am , oz fr sh butt r , pi ch of sugar tir soup ov r h en n e on a nd n n Add t e ee . e e to cook thick i g , s as , pour i to a tur som dri d n crusts of Fre ch roll cut small .

’

—“ THI C K ASPA R AGU S SOUP PUR EE D AsP ERGEs

d and e n e n . an e Tak a good bu dl of spri g asparagus Wash cut up, plac 2 n h . n n e o n n e e in qt of boili g v eal stock . Co ti u b ili g u til t asparagus is quit n d e n een e e . S e n an cook d ; th rub through a tammy aso , add a littl spi ach gr

e e e n and w n e e . ee se e to giv it a d licat gr colour, rv ith crouto s of fri d br ad

— ’ SCOTCH B ROTH POTAGE A L EOOSSAI SE

Cut n eck o f n and e e n the e th e t e up a mutto , , aft r r movi g b st of cu l t e in e n 2 1 n 2 n n 1 ee e m at , put a st wpa with carrots , tur ip , o io s, l k , parsl y,

d . n o o be an e . ee e e thym Boil for thr hours Wh tim allows , this st ck sh uld

e e the e o e n e the can en be e e e . pr par d day b f r it is wa t d , as fat th asily r mov d The e e een e be cut n le cutl t m at which has b k pt back should i to small cut ts ,

” and o e 2 s 2 n 2 n n e and 1 e e e 1 e . co k d with carrot , tur ips, o io s, l k , h ad of c l ry Cut into small dice an d add about a breakfast - cupful of Scotch barl ey e f an Add he and nt e e O . t pr viously boil d for a quart r hour broth , cook u il r d a e en e e on an in e e e and e e. all t d r ; s as throw a littl chopp d parsl y, s rv

— ’ AMER ICAN SOUP POTAC E A L AMER I CAI NE

e en e e o e and This is a whit chick soup with som puré of t mato add d , also e e e en and nn e cut n e som pi c s of chick ski d tomato i to dic .

80 MENU DI SHES — G R EEN - PE A SOUP PU REE DE POI s VE RTs

f een e s 6 Of n n e a n 2 . O d Put qt gr p a , good sprigs mi t, a ha dful of parsl y,

f n . en t 3 een n n n 3 . o he e are te o ne gr o io s i to qt boili g stock Wh p as qui d , e in R e h n an d n all o e . n t e t n strai , pou d t g th r a mortar tur to s ock , stirri g

the e . en e e e e all tim Wh thoroughly mix d , pass through a hair si v ; mak I ho t e n and n e . f the e no t s eem to , s aso , add half a pi t of cr am soup do s t e n een o be e be . of a good colour , a lit l spi ach gr sh uld add d — POTATO SOUP PUR EE DE P omMEs DE TE RR E

e o en e and e one n n and Tak a d z good potato s, cut up plac with o io a d 2 i e e e an . e n n R n e . e e littl c l ry , also cut up , oz of butt r, a st wpa duc u til n e n e e e n ot n Add e . e e arly a pulp , taki g car , how v r, to brow th m p pp r, n 2 n t and e e on . e and e sal , a littl utm g ; pour qt of boili g whit stock , simm r en ee e an e e e g tly for thr quart rs of hour ; pass through a hair si v , mak hot, P r a nd n e . ou en e o a r add half a pi t of cr am This s p is Oft call d t ge P a m en ti e . — DUTCH SOUP POTAGE A LA HOLLANDAI SE

ut 3 t 3 t rn and 1 e n - n C e . carro s , u ips , cucumb r i to small half moo shap s

t e in 3 . e . en ne e e and a e Cook h m qt of good stock (v al) Wh do , r mov pl c n Mix e o e e n ne e h in a soup turee . w ll t g th r i gg yolks with alf a pint of e and n the o be e no t e cr am , stir i to stock , which sh uld k pt hot, but boil d , n n n S o n and n e e . e on v e e e u til of a ic smooth co sist cy as , pour to g tabl s .

CHAPTER XXI I I

FI S H SOUP S

— LOBSTER SOUP BIS QUE DE HOMA R D

n and e the in e e e e e 3 . Tak two good lobst rs , br ak Op plac all sh ll qt of n e n e n the e e t n e an boili g white stock . M a whil pou d lobst r m a (u l ss y is e e be n th e o e eo e e er r quir d to cut up to put i to s up , which som p pl pr f ) with h h n m e o e e . S n t e t e e e a s all t acupful of b il d ric trai stock from sh lls, wh n n n nd e e ee e a the e. as much utrim t as possibl has b abstract d , add puré S e h an e e e n to the e n imm r for alf hour ; rub through a hair si v ; r tur st wpa , and e e and n e e n e en e and add p pp r , salt , a pi ch of mac , a littl a chovy ss c , a

o o n e e. e e en n e n sp ful of good whit sauc B for s di g to tabl , add half a pi t of

cream . ’

—“ CR AYFIS H SOUP BI S QUE D ECR EVI SSE S

e n d in ut e e an e o e n e . C Tak two doz liv crayfish , plac a b wl of cl a wat r 1 1 n n 1 rn e e e and e in up carrot, small o io . tu ip , a small h ad of c l ry, plac e n te n d . e e an e . a st wpa with lb of but r , addi g two bay l av s a sprig of thym e e fiv e n e h n n Fry all th s for mi ut s ; then throw in t e crayfish . Co ti u e stirring f or anoth er fiv e mi nutes ; th en add a glass of whit e wi ne and

2 . e qt of good whit sto ck . Boil for tw en ty mi nutes ; then remove the C O MMERC IAL C HRIS TMAS C AKES

EXHIBITIO N BI RTHDAY CAKE

SPEC IMENS O F C AKE D EC O RAT ION

82 M ENU DISHES

e e o n the e the t e n n L av sid of s ov for two hours , stirri g occasio ally (but

n e no t to n n n n . A ee e on n taki g car brow ) ; tur i to a basi lways k p som ha d .

BR OWN ROUX THICKENIN G FOR SAUCES

e e e e n e e on e rt the e Pr par xactly as abov , o ly l av a hott r pa of stov to e ee en n e en a nd not n acquir a d p gold colour, taki g car to do so g tly to bur . — BR OWN SAUC E SAUCE ESPAGNOLE

the n n n e and in ne e This is fou datio of most brow sauc s , a busi ss stab lishment be e o n n e r n the n should k pt always ha d for pr pa i g brow sauce. an n e R educe 4 qt . of good stock with y trimmi gs (v al or rabbit bones will n and o n l t 1 n n 1 n n do) to half its qua tity, pour to carro , o io , tur ip , a ha d e and e e e een e e in e ful of parsl y , som slic d ham which hav b w ll brais d a littl Add an e o e the ﬁre . e o e d b an butt r v r som tomat puré , oil for half hour . en n t e e t n be e e en Thick with brow roux , a lit l thick r ha will r quir d wh n e e n e en e n e in S e en ﬁ ish d , to allow of oth r i gr di ts b i g us d it . imm r g tly d e the e an e . o and r mov all fat from surfac Pass through a tammy cl th ,

ee in e use . I f no t e n k p a cool plac for quit of a rich brow colour, add a e e ne e e o n littl glaz , or, if c ssary , a littl c louri g — WHITE SAUCE SAUCE VE LOUTE

n e n t Use e e e e o e. Re e s aso d whit v al or chick s ck for this sauc duc it, n n n t a d e e . e n o e n thick with whit roux Wh stock is availabl , a good pla an e n e e the een is to add qual qua tity of boil d milk , aft r stock has b

ene and use . thick d , pass through a tammy for — I TALIAN SAU CE SAUCE I TALIENNE

" ChO n n n e m and e p a small o io with a ha dful of fr sh , dark mushroo s , plac

n e e and e . Re e in e 1 . e e a st wpa with oz butt r, a littl thym , a bay l af duc ov r ﬁre n n e e the e and me and 1 te e . a for mi ut s , r mov bay l af thy , add pt n e en n e e n and e e of brow sauc . Boil for tw ty mi ut s, s aso , skim . , if d sir d , add a little dark sh erry . — WHITE I TALIAN SAUCE SAUCE I TALIENNE BLAN CHE

Use e and ee e t n I n e whit mushrooms, proc d xac ly as for brow talia sauc , n n o f o n E n e Add e usi g white sauce (v elouté) i stead br w ( spag ol ) . a littl n an white wi e d cream . — SHA RP SAUCE SAUCE PIQUANTE

ﬁ n n in ne a d f ew . o 6 e 3 e Chop gh rki s , shallots , a cap rs Put to b il a gill f R e one- O ne e e and e . e vi gar , with a littl thym a bay l af duc to half, add 1 E n n n n e n . e e e e e e pt of spag ol sauc , simm r g tly for tw ty mi ut s, s aso with d e enne e e and and en e e the e an . cay p pp r salt, th r mov thym bay l af — TOMATO SAUCE SAUCE AUX TOMATE S

e 1b. Tak six ripe tomatoes and squash them in a basin. Put about 1 m n out n e n n n n e e an n n gam o , small , i to a st wpa co tai i g a littl butt r , o io cut SAUCES 83

and f wn e e e . t e e e e up , a bay l af, a sprig of thym Fry h s for a mi ut s ov r h ﬁr n th n e t e e e e t a d e nt are e e . n ; th add omato , simm r u il all m lt d Th t e e and e n e n Add n o f pass hrough a si v r tur to the st wpa . half a pi t en e en and e n enne chick or v al stock ; thick with roux , s aso with cay and and ne e p epper salt a dash of vi gar . Pass through a tammy or v ry n t ne ﬁ e s rai r . — GENEVES E SAUCE SAUCE GENEVOI S E

e n Of e n an n n o Mak a braisi g a littl gammo cut up with o io , a carr t, e nd o r t e e e e te a . e e the ﬁ e a lit l c l ry, som parsl y , but r, mushr om Brais ov r f ewm n en i e e and ﬁv Add for a i ut s ; th add a g ll of clar t boil for e minutes . n E n e e e en en n e en a pi t of spag ol sauc ; simm r g tly for tw ty mi ut s ; th skim , St in n and . e e pass through a tammy ir a spoo ful of chopp d parsl y , half a n e e e e on e e n e en e and spoo ful of chopp d cap rs , a littl l m juic , som a chovy ss c a nd e n t e e e . grat d u m g , p pp r salt — MATELOTE SAUC E SAUCE MATELOTE

e the een e in and n n e Tak stock that ﬁsh has b cook d , strai it i to som Re e e an E n e e. d t e n e en e spag ol sauc duc w ll , skim , add a li tl a chovy ss c ,

n e and e . Se n e and e e e. grat d utm g, mushroom k tchup aso w ll s rv

— LOBSTE R SAUCE SAUC E DE HOMA R D

e the S e and e 85 C e e n the e the Br ak up h lls h ad , , aft r r movi g ﬂ sh of 1 nd f in . a e e e n n . w e S lobst r Put to boil ; pt of milk r duc for a mi utes . trai and t en e and the n e e e hick with whit roux , add spaw pass d through a si v . Add e n e en e e e and t e a e e en a littl a chovy ss c , also p pp r a li tl s lt if r quir d ; th pass through a tammy o n to pi eces of lobster cut into small dice .

’ MAiTR E D HOTEL SAUCE

To a pint of boiling v elouté sauce add a dessertspoon ful of chopped and n e e e e n e e e e e and bla ch d parsl y , a littl l mo juic , a pat of fr sh butt r, p pp r, salt, a v ery littl e cream .

— ’ CU R R Y SAUCE SAUCE A L I ND I E NNE

S e an n n and e e e and e in e n lic up o io , a carrot , a littl c l ry , plac a st wpa , e e e e e e e and with a littl butt r, a blad of mac , a sprig of thym , two bay l av s, e ten n e e the fire en e n som e parsl y . Fry for mi ut s ov r ; th add a tabl spoo ful n f w Of I n n e . n n e e e n e good dia curry powd r Co ti u fryi g for a mor mi ut s , n e e not n en in en en taki g car that it do s bur ; th stir suffici t flour to thick it, e and moisten with stock made from whatev er it is to b serv ed with . Let it simm er gently and remov e all fat ; then strain and pass through a tammy f r o use . — MAYONNAI S E SAUCE SAUCE MAYONNAI S E

c e the ee e in a n le e e Pla raw yolks of thr ggs a b si with a litt p pp r, salt, and S den n n Oil mustard . tir quickly with a woo spoo or whisk , addi g salad , f w t n e n et en an e e a c be a drops at a tim ﬁrst , u til it b gi s to g thick ; th it 84 MENU DI SH ES

nd f in e n e . en n e a e ne and added larg r qua titi s Wh ic stif , add a littl vi gar i n e t e e . J n le n e. e e t e e e mo juic Mak sur hat is s aso d corr ctly ust b for s rvi g , stir in a littl e cream . — G R EEN MAYONNAI S E SAUCE SAUCE MAYONNAI S E VE RTE

se e n ed o nn e e and e e e een U som ﬁ ish may ais sauc colour with v g tabl gr , n e n e i e e e and e . S ee e n or, if pr f rr d , bla ch som tarrago , ch rvil , parsl y qu z a e nd h nn e a t e e. cloth , pass through a hair si v , mix with mayo ais

— RED MAYONNAIS E SAU CE SAUCE MAYONNAI SE ROUGE

This sauce is mad e by pounding som e lobster coral and passing through and n e nn f i e e e e. O e t be a si v , mixi g with som mayo ais sauc cours is to used only for ﬁsh . TA R TAR SAUCE— SAUCE TAR TAR E

e in the e nn e e n ra n ne Mak sam way as mayo ais sauc , usi g tar go vi gar , d en n e e e n e and e s an . , wh ﬁ ish d , add som chopp d tarrago , ch rvil , cap r

R EMOULADE SAUCE (COLD)

n in e e ne e n e e and Bla ch a littl whit wi som tarrago , ch rvil , parsl y , a S n e e the and o n th re l e e . e c ov of bruis d garlic trai , r mov garlic , p u d

v - Add e e o n o f m ainder with ﬁ e hard boil ed egg yolks . thre tabl sp o fuls salad n n d n o ne o e an e e . S e oil , of tarrag vi gar , a littl tomato k tchup aso with

and a nd f wﬁnel - e e e e e . p pp r salt , add a y chopp d cap rs

R EMOULADE SAUCE (HOT)

e n e e e ﬁne and e em Tak a ha dful of fr sh mushrooms chopp d v ry , plac th the n e n 1 e and e e . e i a st wpa with oz . butt r a bruis d clov of garlic Fry ov r ﬁre f o r ten minutes ; th en remov e the garlic and put the mushrooms in n th e o the e the n e e. e o e a pi t of v louté sauc Bri g to b il r m v butt r from top, and in the e and set t e and e ne stir yolks of two ggs ( h m) a littl vi gar, mus and e e tard , chopp d parsl y .

P R OVENCAL SAUCE

e e e e n n e e and filleted Pr par as for cold rémoulad sauc , pou di g som cap rs n e the e n e en and en n e e e a chovi s with oth r i gr di ts, , wh fi ish d , add som v ry ne e e fi ly chopp d parsl y .

S C FOR R ETC. AU E COLD MEAT, B AWN ,

in n 3 2 ne 1 e Put a basi parts of salad oil , of vi gar, of castor sugar, som en t e AI e e e e and an d e Fr ch mus ard , a littl sauc , som p pp r salt, mix w ll o e e and e t g th r s rve. — CAP ER SAUCE SAUCE CAP R E

n and en i Boil pt . of milk , add to it Apt . of mutto stock , thick w th

e . S e o n and e e e e e whit roux as add cap rs, ith r whol or chopp d , a dash of c e v ne a r a nd t e e . ap r i g , a lit l cr am

86 M ENU DI SH ES

m n en n E e f o r t en e n e e. Let it reduc i ut s , th add half a pi t of spag ol sauc en e an and e n Let it boil g tly for a quart r of hour, skim , add a t aspoo ful d S e n e e an . of French mustard . aso with p pp r salt — PA R SL EY SAUCE SAUCE PERS IL

e e e e the t n n e and e This is m lt d butt r sauc , with addi io of bla ch d chopp d parsl ey . — ’ ANCI I OVY SAUCE SAUCE D ANCHOI s

n n i e e e e e e e e n . This is m lt d butt r sauc , with a chovy ss c stirr d

— ' ‘ HOR SER ADI SH SAUCE SAUCE RAIFORI

Grate som e horseradish and stir in som e cream which h as been slightly d e Add e ne enne e e an . whipp d . som vi gar , cay p pp r, salt

MOUSS ELINE SAUCE (HOT)

e e e and e e e n t in e e Tak som Dutch sauc , just b for s rvi g s ir som whipp d e white of egg. This sauce is suitabl for hot asparagus .

— i 1 22 . s i c and Ma onnaise Sa ce F g . A p y u

MOUSSELINE SAUC E (COLD)

e e nn e e een e e e and Tak som mayo ais sauc to which has b add d som cr am , in e e e e e stir a littl whipp d aspic j lly, which is mad with liquid aspic quit and e en n h e n e n h cold b at by rolli g t ha dl e of a whisk b twee t e two hands .

— GHER KIN SAUCE SAUCE AUX COR NICHONS

This consists of Espagnol e sauce with vinegar and shredd ed gh erkins in S n e . e enn n stirr d aso with cay e pepper a d salt . SAUCES 87

— DUTCH SAUC E SAUC E HOLLANDAISE

n S Put four egg yolks i to a stewpan with a little grated nutm eg. tir and 1 e e e set the quickly with a whisk add pt . of whit sauc . Mak hot to e and e n e e e n ne and e gg, s aso with p pp r, salt , a littl tarrago vi gar, a littl cream . — MUSS EL SAUC E SAUC E AUX MOULES

Stir som e thoroughly cl ean and pick ed mussels into som e G erman e n e en e n d e e an e e. sauc , add a littl a chovy ss c , s aso , s rv — GE RMAN SAUC E SAUCE ALLEMANDE

n e e Take 1 qt . of boili g v louté sauc ; add a littl e mushroom k etchup ; stir in e t e e n e e o n e and e ee six gg yolks, a lit l grat d utm g, l m juic , cr am . K p n e the the e en e n and just u d r boil to cook ggs ; th s aso , pass through a tammy for use. SAUCE BEAR NAIS E

e e n e s n an This sauc is mad by placi g four gg yolk i to a small sauté p , and e e and 1 e e . e S t e with a littl salt p pp r oz fr sh butt r. ir quickly ov r to t n h ﬁre n e n en e . t e 3 e ut e 1 . u til it b gi s hick ; th add oz mor of b t r, oz at e e n ne and e and n e ta n a tim ; also a littl tarrago vi gar , chopp d bla ch d rrago nd e a parsl y. SAUCE SUPR EME

Re duce som e good white chick en stock to which som e white mush e een e and e e e R e e en rooms hav b add d , add to som v louté sauc . duc g tly he e the n and t e e n t . u til sauc coats spoo , add a lit l cr am

MINT SAUCE - SAUCE MENTHE

and e n e e fﬁ en n Wash chop som mi t l av s, with su ci t brow sugar to

ee en and n the ne . S ee e sw t it, stir i to vi gar that all sugar is dissolv d n be fore servi g . WHITE CHAUDFR OID SAUCE

Take some v elouté sauce and add to it the reduced liquor Of whate v er Re e the e e a nd e n en e o e . e ne it is i t d d to c v r duc whol w ll add a littl g lati , n n to set t e e e sufﬁci e t o ly it wi h a littl aspic j lly ; also a littl cream .

BR OWN CHAUDFROID SAUCE

ee as the e e n n E n e e and e Proc d for pr c di g , usi g spag ol sauc , of cours

omitti ng the cream . ’ — ’ D UXE LLEs SAUCE SAUCE D UXELLES

v Chop ﬁnely alittle l ean,coo k ed ham with som e white m ushrooms and n e r n f w s e i e e n par l y . Fry a littl butt r without colou i g for a mi utes ; th en e e n e o n e e use Es n e add to som G rma sauc , or if br w is r quir d pag ol sauce .

CUMB E RLAND SAUCE

Mince ﬁ nely two p eel ed s hallots ; place in a ste wpan with the strai ned e e o n and the e e n e on and an n e Add juic of a l m shr dd d ri d of a l m ora g . 88 MENU DI SHES

5 gill of water and cook for ten minu tes ; strain and return to the stewpan ; a e e on e t J add d ss rtspo ful of mix d mus ard , 5 gill of marsala, ; gill of port, a n n n e e n red - en e the e pi ch of grou d gi g r, two tabl spoo fuls of curr t j lly, juic of n S e on e n and an n e e n e . e e a l mo ora g , two tabl spoo fuls of vi gar as with p pp r, nd add e r t i and enne . a e e n salt , cay Boil , a v ry littl ar owroo mix d cold n n and e e l e . ee e . wat r Boil for thr mi ut s ; strai , s rv co d

— MADEIR A SAUCE SAUCE MADEI RA

This sauce is mad e by reducing Mad eira wi ne with a littl e glaze to half n and n E n e e and e n n e e its qua tity , mixi g with spag ol sauc s aso i g with p pp r n a d salt . FINAN CIE R E SAUC E

Add e E n e e e f e et to som spag ol sauc som tru ﬂ liquor, mushroom k chup , h h o n R e e n t e e t e . and a littl e claret . duc u til sauc coats sp o Pass through b n e e e e e . I f a tammy for use . This sauc may also s rv d with hot to gu e e f or e en the e e the e be e r quir d gam , th r duc d liquor from sam should add d ; f likewise for ish . — DEVIL SAUCE SAUCE A LA DIAB LE

t e wo and e in e n 1 . e S e t lic shallots plac a st wpa with oz bu t r , som nd e ten s e e e a . par l y , a sprig of thym , a bay l af, a clov of garlic Fry for n nn and 1 n e en e e e e e . mi ut s, th add a littl p pp r, salt, a pi ch of cay , § pt E n e en m n e th e e off e e. S spag ol sauc imm r for tw ty i ut s , skim butt r , pass

an d in e n en . through a tammy , stir a t aspoo ful of Fr ch mustard

R G S C FOR S M ETC . NO WE IAN AU E ( AL ON , )

e n e an d un e n to en en Tak a pi t of cr am , whip til it b gi s thick ; th add two e in we tabl espoonfuls of ﬁnely grated hor se radish previously soak d hit a ne Add t e een o n m e n e n m lt vi gar . a li tl gr col uri g ad from bla ch d tarrago and n in h m S e n enne e e and parsl ey pou ded t e ortar . aso with cay p pp r salt a nd h n en in ice n l a little whipped aspic j elly . W isk u til thick ; th bury u ti e e r quir d . — BOR DEAUX SAUCE SAUCE BOR DELAIS E

R e e e ne e e e ne S e ne duc with a littl ﬁ ly chopp d shallot som whit wi , aut r e e Add o e E n e e and e e e n e n and e . t pr f rr d it som spag ol sauc , b for s rvi g s aso

stir in som e blanch ed and chopped parsl ey .

SAU CE FOR VENISON

R e e ne to n and duc a gill of port wi half its qua tity , add a small jar of

- r d , e n e Add 1 E a n e e n and e e. curra t j lly . pt . of sp g ol sauc ; strai s rv

SAUCE F OR ROA ST VEAL

Tak e a pin t of m eat stock in which a sprig of thym e has been boil ed f o r t en n e n an d o f E no e e o e e e mi ut s ; strai , add a gill spag l sauc , s m chopp d parsl y, and t e e n so n nn and . a lit l l mo juice . S ea with caye e pepper salt

90 MENU DI SHES

POR T-WINE SAUCE

e red - n e l ne the nd Tak a small jar of curra t j lly, a gil of port wi , ri of a f ewn lem n and e . e n n o l e o , two clov s Boil for a mi ut s , strai i t a gil of d mi f wn te n e and e e e e . glaz , r duc for a mi u s lo g r

S C OR R S C FOR F R PLAIN WHITE AU E BUTTE AU E ( CAULI LOWE , S E T C . EAKALE, )

se and e . en e U half milk half wat r Thick with whit roux, add a pat of nd n e e a . fr sh butt r, strai — WHITE ONION SAUCE SAUCE A LA SOUB I SE

Cut ee n n and e in e n e e and up thr o io s plac a st wpa ; cov r with cold wat r, n h S e en n e en n and h e bri g to t e boil . imm r for t mi ut s ; th drai press t e wat r

- mm i n i 123 . a F g . T y g out ; put back in the stewpan with a pat o f fresh butter and two table n te e o n e e s and n e . S spoo fuls of whi sauc eas with p pp r , alt, a dash of utm g , and -ﬁttin and n caster . o e add a small pi ch of sugar C v r with a tight g lid , e en n h n n en n sw at g tly u til t e o nio s are quite do e. Th add half a pi t of e e and e : e en ﬁv e n e and Whit sauc a gill of cr am simm r g tly for mi ut s, pass through a tammy cloth . — OYS TE R SAUCE SAUCE AUX HUITR ES

Put twelv e o ysters i n to a stewpa n wi th th e liquor that com es from

e . n to the n the Off and n the e n th m Bri g boil , strai liquor , put i to st wpa COOKI NG AND SERVI NG FI SH 9 1

n . en n the e . en half a pi t of milk Thick with whit roux Wh boili g , add the o s te o f o r ten n te s o o liquor from y rs, b il mi u s , pa s thr ugh a tammy cl th 1 23 o n to the e e n and he . ee e e t (ﬁg ) oyst rs , which hav b b ard d had hard part S e n enne and n i e e . e e n e a d n r mov d aso with salt, cay , a littl l mo juic , stir a little cream .

R R S C FOR HAM S — ETC . S C R S S CHE Y AU E , VENI ON , AU E AUX CE I E

e i n e n th e o n en r ed - n e Plac a st wpa c t ts of a jar of curra t j lly, half a n e e the n Of r e e n pi t of wat r , a gill of clar t , ri d a qua t r of a l mo , a stick of nn n ﬁv e n n n a d e . e e ci amo , six clov s Boil for mi ut s ; slightly thick with a o n o n d e e . e e an e t n littl arrowro t ; strai to 1 lb glacé ch rri s, simm r for n mi utes . — NEAP OLITAN SAUCE SAUCE NAPOLITAINE

n E n e e e o n red - n e To a pi t of spag ol sauc add a tabl spo ful of curra t j lly , th n o f e and e e s e R n e e . e e a d sam amou t clar t , a littl grat d hor radish duc f u e e n e . S n e o r se add a littl l mo juic trai r ady .

CHAPTER XXV

COOK I NG AND SE R VI NG FI S H

LO BSTE R COR AL

h h e Lo bster coral is fo u n d in the back of t e en lobster . Br ak away the h ead fro m the back of a boiled hen lobster ; th en remov e the red coral ;

I f to e in an - t e e e and . rub it through a wir si v dry it s r d air ight jar, it will I t e e e e k eep som e tim e without losing its colour. mak s a v ry pr tty d cora n tio for hot or cold ﬁsh .

FI SH C R EAM OR FI SH FAR CE

n 2 n in the e . e ee Pou d a mortar ﬂ sh of two whiti g , with oz of br ad , fr e e in ee e and e o n the from crust, pr viously dipp d milk , squ z d dry , rubb d the e t e n e . en n e e abl u til quit smooth Wh pou d d to a past , add whit s of two e t ﬁne e e e n n n and raw ggs ; pass hrough a Wir si v i to a basi , addi g salt T e e e e e . h e p epper to taste and a gill of cream . B at w ll tog th r b st way is to try a small quantity by steaming it ; then if it requires softeni ng add m e ore cr am . — FR IED FILLETS OF SOLE FILETS DE SOLES FR ITS

Th ese should be egged and breadcrumbed and fri ed to a nice gold en o I t e e e e e a nd an e c lour. is usual to s rv fri d parsl y with th m , y sauc that e e be e e in he may be preferr ed hand ed separat ly . Plaic may pr par d t sam e

way (ﬁg . 92 MENU DISHES

— wi n i Fi . 1 24 P aice a t ﬁlleted t ﬁ ets a o s de g . l , p r l y , h ll l g — SOLES IN WHITE WINE FILETS DE SOLE AU VIN BLANC

The ﬁllets are fold ed ov er and just slit with a sharp k nife to prev ent n in e n e e n o e . e e e e th m from movi g whil b i g co k d Wh pr par d this way , plac in an e e e n e e ne a c arro t a sauté p pr viously butt r d , alo g with som whit wi , , t n and n n e e e and and the ne a small ur ip o io , a sprig of thym , p pp r salt, bo s h e e en e and in t e e . e e e e of sol s Cov r with a pi c of butt r d kitch pap r, plac th e oven for about a quarter of an hour ; lift the ﬁllets carefully out on to ee n the n e n and en a dish to k p warm ; strai all liquor i to a st wpa , thick with e e e e e the e n n e and whit roux ; add a littl cr am ; mak sur s aso i g is corr ct, serv e. — SURPR IS E FILLETS OF SOLE FI LETS DE SOLE EN SUR PR IS E

Cut the e nt n e on en ﬁll ts crossways i o thi strips , dry th m a cloth , th

e em n . e and ee e in the e shak th i to som ﬂour, proc d xactly sam way as for

w n e . e hi the n e e e e hit bait, w ch dish is i t d d to r s mbl

— ’ FILLETS OF SOLE IN BATTER FILETS DE SOLE A L OR LY

e th e e e and in e Tak ﬁll ts of two sol s ; trim , lay a dish with a slic d n n n and th e m Le e e e n . t e carrot, o io , tur ip, sprig of thym , juic of a l o th m

e n one n e e n e and en e . n e r mai for hour ; tur th m ov r o c , th tak out Drai th m on in and o n e e e . on a cloth , dip som good batt r, fry of a g ld colour Dish n n n e e and e e e a apki with a gar ish of fri d parsl y, s rv with tomato sauc .

‘ FILETS DE SOLE A LA NOR MANDE

‘ e e the e a Vi n P e in Pr par ﬁll ts s for blanc . lac a sauté pan with some

“ e the ne has een e e d good ﬁsh stock mad from bo s , to which b add d som goo n in e. the en n ne en e and e the brow sauc Cook ov u til do ; th tak out, plac

94 M ENU D ISHES

e e ne and ne e e and n e Cucumb r is cut up , s aso d , oil Vi gar pour d ov r it, ha d d separately . — FILLETS OF SALMON FILETS DE SAUMON

- s d e 2 . e e an n the r emo v Tak about lb of a m dium iz d ﬁsh cut dow back , ing the backbone ; th en cut each piece l engthways again and divid e th em

- t i nto o val shaped piec es . Place h e m on a bu ttered sauté pan ; season with e e and t t e v ne and e and o in th e o en n p pp r sal , add a li tl i gar wat r, co k v u til n n o e o f and e . o e e o A n e e . e do Dish a b rd r mash d potato s , p ur sauc ov r ic - garnish of cucumber cut into small olive shap es and coo k ed in bo ili ng

e e ne i n and en o ne e in the en e wat r with a littl vi gar it , wh d plac d c tr , is n a good additio .

MAYONNAI S E OF SALMON~ MAYONN AI S E DE SAUMON

E nt e the n e e e . ith r cut i o slic s across ﬁsh , or i to small ﬁll ts as abov en e e o nn e e has een Wh cold , mask th m ov r with may ais sauc , to which b added a littl e aspic j elly and a small quan tity of gelatine ; d ec orate with e o e e the n n e eet 8 m. o lobst r coral , ch pp d parsl y, ri d of cucumb r , b root, Dish d and e e o f e o n sala , plac slic s cucumb r r u d . — GR ILLED SLICE OF SALMON TR AN CHE DE SAUMON GR I LLEE

e e o 1 in e e Tak a slic of ﬁrm ﬁsh ab ut . thick , pour a littl salad oil ov r it, and grill .

FR IED SLI CES OF SALMON— TR AN CHES DE SAUMON FR ITES

E e o n be o o e e . e ith r hot or c ld , this will f u d a fav urit dish with J ws Tak e o e in and in e o m e e a slic as ab v , dry it a cloth , dip ﬂour ; hav s yolk of gg

2 —S té P an wi t co e and F in B asket Fi . 1 5 . a g u ( h v r) , ry g

- e en in ie and n in . o e e and n b at a p dish , put salmo C v r all ov r, lift out , agai

. d in n n n o o e e in a n e an e. ﬂ ur all v r ; plac fryi g bask t , fry boili g oil u til do

n e e e e . Gar ish with fri d parsl y if hot, or, if cold , with slic d cucumb r

— R ED MULLET ROUGETS

e e red e and n n e n Tak som good mull t slightly cut, sla ti g , four tim s dow o f the n e and ne e S e . e o ach id ﬁsh Plac a dish with som oil vi gar, a carrot, an n n n and e e and e e the o io , a tur ip , som parsl y , soak for two hours ; r mov COOKIN G AND SERVI NG FI SH 95

e e e e e e e and in the en n e v g tabl s, cov r with butt r d pap r, cook ov , basti g th m

n the e . en ne e to n e e t e duri g proc ss Wh do , dish h ad tail , pouri g sauc ov r h m

— 1 26. R ed e Fig . Mull t

en e o n I n and e e . e e be e t e s rv G vois or br w talia sauc should us d for h m , with h the e t e liquor from ﬁsh add d . — G R EY B ROILED MULLET MULETS

lh. ea n and v Tak e a ﬁsh about 1 A ; cl scal e. Make four or ﬁ e cuts on

- e c e and e in e Oil. n and en ﬁv e n e a h sid , plac a littl Drai broil for tw ty mi ut s r on a steady ﬁ e. ROUGETS AUX FINES HE RB ES

a r e w ne n and e an h e e e c e d e e T s ook d ith wi , a chovy , Harv y sauc , s rv d

- e with a ﬁne herbs sauc .

’ ROUC ETS A LA MAITR E D HOTEL

Th ese are ﬁlleted and cook ed and dish ed o n a border Of potatoes with ’ h l R ou ets 61, la sa u ce v er te a re e e een t e d Ote e. e mai r sauc g s rv d with gr sauc . o te Ro ugets a la R a vigote are serv ed with ravig sauce.

— BOILED TUR B OT TUR B OT BOUILLE

Tak e a good plump ﬁsh ; wash and rub w ell ov er the white side with the e o f e n e n the n juic a l mo ; mak a small cut dow black ski , which will h elp to k eep the White sid e fro m s plitti ng ; place o n a drai ner i n a turbo t n n n S e e e a nd e e . s e and k ttl of cold wat r, cook g tly u til do hrimp , Lob t r , a

n e e be se e . I n r n cut n the good ma y oth r sauc s may rv d with it ca vi g , dow

ﬁsh en in e the s e . , th slic s towards id s — FILLETS OF TU RB OT FILETS DE TU R B OT

Tak e the m eat care fully from the bones by cutti ng straight dow n the ﬁsh en ss the n e o n the ne n e the e o the e ; th pa k if al g bo u d r ﬁll ts t wards sid s. 9 6 : MENU DI SHES

‘ Cut into pieces a littl e larger than are required when cook ed (to allow f o r e shrinking) and place on a butte red sau té pan . S ason with pepper and d in h e e an t e en . on salt , pour som good ﬁsh stock ov r, cook ov Dish a e e n e e n n bord r ; mak a gar ish of shrimp , lobst r, cucumb r, or a ythi g that is d n e e e an e e . e e ﬁ et preferr d ; pour sauc ov r, spri kl with lobst r coral Th s ll s

en be e e nn e e e wh cold may mask d ov r with mayo ais , tartar , or ravigot a d n e n e n e o . sauc , accordi g to tast , dish d salad

BR OILED TUR B OT

e Tak a small ﬁsh , dry e on e o n w ll a cloth , plac e o n e e a dish , s as with p pp r and and e salt , pour ov r it Six tabl espo onfuls of oil and two of vi negar an d a S littl e l em on juice . oak for one hour ; th en place in a doubl e gridiron SO as n ot to disturb it in the n n and e tur i g , broil ov r a

ﬁre n ne slow u til do , which will tak e about twenty — w 2 O en P an f or Joints it Stand Fi . 1 7 . v n e The sauce g v , h ﬁ e mi ut s , is handed separately .

TUR BOT AU GR ATIN

e an be e and e e in e e Tak y cold ﬁsh that may l ft, plac a lay r a butt r d silv er dish ; th en pour ov er it a layer o f well - seasoned bécham el sauce (if

e e e e e n ee e be e . S n e e d sir d , a littl grat d Parm sa ch s may add d) pri kl ov r and e e e e in the en and n with bread crumbs a pi c of butt r mad hot ov , bri g - n e e e to a n ice brown colour by passing the red hot salama d r ov r th m .

’ TUR B OT AU GR ATIN A L I TALI E NNE

ee e n I n e n e o f e and e Proc d as abov , usi g talia sauc i st ad bécham l , som in n and n e e 1 e . spaghetti macaroni c ut i to pi c s . lo g mix d with it

TUR B OT A LA RU SS E AND TURB OT A LA MOR NY

Tu r bot (it la R u sse e e e- e and tur bot a la is s rv d with hors radish sauc ,

Mor a y with a ch eese sauce .

TUR B OT A LA C REME GR ATIN

This consists of alternate layers of turbot and a white butter sauce with e e and o e e s n e t e e n ee e cr am add d , ch pp d parsl y pri kl d wi h grat d Parm sa ch s d n in h en in on he ﬁre and e an e t e t . br ad crumbs , brow d ov or fr t of

9 8 MENU DISHES

S OF WR ITI NG R EG C — S R S A R EG FILLET , EN E FILET DE ME LAN LA ENCE

e e ni e e t e and o n te e t an Tak ight c fill ts , trim h m , cook a but r d sau é p and w e e e Put i with a little fish stock, cov r ith butt r d paper. n the ov en u n til done ; then dish the fillets crossways o n mash ed potato dow n the

e e . e e e middl of a flat, oval , silv r dish Cov r with a good whit sauc to which th e e sen e the een e and e e e n e e s c of fish has b add d , d corat alt r at ly with dri d n d e lobster coral a chopped truffle . Plac a pyramid of tiny qu enell es of t n e e n e e een e e and e whi i g, which , aft r b i g cook d , hav b br adcrumb d fri d to in the en he en o e t e e e and e e . a gold col ur, c tr of sauc at ach sid , s rv

’ — FILLETS OF WHITIN G A L AMER I CAI NE FILETS DE MER LAN S ’ A L AMER ICAI NE

e e in the e e n t e and n n Pr par sam way as abov , usi g toma o sauc gar ishi g

e n and e n e . ut n n with gh rki s ﬁll ts of a chovi s C i to thi strips .

’ FILETS DE MER LAN S A L AMB ASSAD RI CE

e e e en lo on Fry som v ry small ﬁll ts of a gold co ur . Dish a bord er of e in the ent e o e ene e potato . Plac c r a go d pyramid of v ry small qu ll s , half f e e and e red e n and o th m whit half colour d with lobst r spaw , pour a rich n e white sauce rou d th m . — C R EAM OF WHITING CREME DE MER LAN S

e n e e e the e the n Tak two good whiti g, fill t th m , scrap all fl sh from ski , e - e n e and poun d in a mortar . N xt tak a ha dful of stal bread crumb a nd moisten with milk ; squ eeze tight in a cloth and rub o n a marble slab u ntil Add the and n of a v elv ety appearance . to fish pou d quite smooth ; th en in ee e e n to S e and fine mix two or thr gg whit s accordi g iz , pass through a n Add e e n e e e n . e and wir si v i to a basi p pp r , salt, a small pi ch of mac , a gill i e . n e n e e e and of cr am Try it by putti g a littl a butt r d dariol mould , e n e o e e en n e e st ami g it ; if too firm , add a littl m r cr am ; th , havi g mad sur e n e o e e n e e o e e o f it is s aso d c rr ctly , butt r a plai w ll mould d c rat with slic s le and e in e e een e truff , plac first a lay r of farc which has b mix d with e n and n an n the the e lobst r spaw , fill up to withi i ch of top with whit

e P e in t e n - ﬁttin and e en farc . lac a s wpa with a tight g lid st am g tly for

- ﬁv e n e n e not and o o w e t . thirty mi ut s , taki g car to boil quickly , so caus it bl

n on en e s and e e e - e ne e Tur out tré di h pour ov r it a rich , whit , w ll s aso d sauc , An n e the ne & c . e e be e mad from bo s , y gar ish that is d sir d should plac d in h en e t e c tr .

— CR EAM OF WHITIN G IN ASP IC JELLY C R EME DE ME R LAN S EN AS P IC

o ff in the s th e e wo n n t . en Cook u ual way fill ts of whiti g Wh cold , pou d in the t fine S e e e n and e mortar ; pass hrough a i v , s aso , add a gill of cr am in h n and a littl e aspic j elly . Place t e ce tre of a dariole mould previously nd ne e e a e . en set e on e and d corat d li d with aspic j lly Wh , plac a silv r dish , COOKI NG AND SERVI NG FI SH 99 w t the e n n e e . and in gar ish wi h hit parts of div (fig This aspic , fact t e be e be ade all tha is us d for fish , must mad with fish stock , to m up exactly the sam e as for savo ury aspic

— m i i i Fi . C ea o f t n n s ic g 1 28. r Wh g A p

— WHITIN G POLLOC K COLIN

e h This should be pr pared in t e sam e way as red mull et. — TROUT TR UITES

are e in the e n and e e the e Trout cook d sam way as salmo , s rv d with sam

n e e & c. ki d of sauc s, cucumb r ,

— ’ FILLETS OF TR OUT FILETS DE TR UITES A L ITALI E NNE

h n and on e Cut t e ﬁll ets as for salm o . Cook dish a bord r either of I t n e and e i t e. o e t e o e n the pota o or ﬁsh farc P ur ov r h m s m alia sauc , plac en e n n and n c tr som e ti y que elles of whiting praw .

SLICES OF T ROUT -TRANCHES D E TR UITES

- n s h Take two m edium sized trout and cut i to pi eces acro s t e fish Ain . n n ut to e the e e . e e t thick . Cook sam as for fill ts Wh do , p away g cold ; en e e the ne n e no t e the and the th r mov bo s . taki g car to br ak fish , fill up e t e nn e e n a n e e cavity with i h r Mayo ais , Tartar , Norw gia , or y oth r sauc , s e h beari ng in mi nd that th e dish mu t be nam d from t e sauce used . Brush e o n the n e n and n e e ov r with aspic almost poi t of s tti g, spri kl with dri d e an e en the is set n f da d e . o o un lobst r coral chopp d parsl y Wh aspic , dish a

- n ﬁnel a and n es e . tio of y cut s lad , gar ish with slic of cucumb r — ME DALLIONS OF TR OUT IN CAS ES MEI I AI LLONS DE TR UITES EN CAI SSEs

Cut the e te e n o e n e the e ﬁll ts , af r b i g c ok d , with a rou d cutt r siz of half

- l a o n e e e . Cut s e s ne cr w . Tr at th m as abov om a ad up fi , mix with 100 MENU DI SHES

nn e e e n e e and a e h mayo ais sauc , ﬁll som small rou d pap r cas s with it, pl c t e n on m edallio s of ﬁsh top .

— BOI LED HADDOC K ME RLUCHE BOUILLIE

Tak e a large haddock and form it into an S shape by fastening a string to the n n n ee e the e and n tail , passi g it with a trussi g dl through middl , tyi g h e en n ne and o t e S . e t . e it jaw imm r g tly u til do Dish , s rv with a good boat

e an e n e . of gg, or y oth r ki d of ﬁsh sauc

— FILLETS OF HADDOCK WITH TA R TA R SAUCE FILETS DE MER LUCHE A LA TA R TAR E

and e n e n e e . on Trim , br adcrumb , fry ﬁll ts of a ic gold colour Dish a

n n and e e een t e . apki , s rv with a tur of Tar ar sauc — FILLETS OF HADDOCK WITH CUR R Y SAUC E FILETS DE ME R LU CHE ’ A L I ND I E NNE

e the e n a R en e an d e . e Pr par ﬁll ts as for whiti g la ég c Dish , pour ov r n th em some curry sauce . Gar ish wi th boiled rice.

— HALI B UT FLETAN

Halibut are prepared in the sam e way as turbot but as th ey are a v ery c e e e be e cookl n and e be oars ﬁsh , xtra tim must allow d for g, th y must

i - n served with a h ghly seaso ed sauce . — WHITEBAIT BLAN CHAILLES

e be ne e e e and e on Whit bait should obtai d as fr sh as possibl , wash d , dri d n n o e n e and e o n e a cloth , throw i to s m ﬂour a ha dful at a tim , sift d a wick r e e en e in n e and e n e n si v , th plac d a fryi g bask t , dropp d i to som boili g lard S e e e n and en e e o ut or oil . hak th m about whil cooki g, wh quit crisp tak and en e n h throw on to a dish wi th som e kitch pap r o it to absorb t e fat . S n e e e e o n n n and e e n e pri kl a littl salt ov r th m ; dish a apki , s rv with thi slic s o f n n an n n e brow bread a d butter d a l emo cut i to ight . — DEVILLED WHITEB AIT BLANCHAILLES A LA DIAB LE

Th ese are prepared as abov e and sprinkl ed over with a mixture of nn n caye e pepper a d salt . — STURGEON ESTUR GEON

h R o the n tie n 1 . e e ﬁs . e Tak about 5 lb of m v ski , rou d tight with a e e and e in e n one one n n ee pi c of cloth , plac a st wpa with carrot, o io , thr w e e wo e e f e e t e e S e clov s , bay l av s , a prig of thym , a blad of mac , a p pp r o n e e te ne and en e to o e c r s , whol spic , a glass of whi wi , sufﬁci t wat r just c v r

- . o o en o ee e an and o it C k g tly for ab ut thr quart rs of hour ; lift out, p ur e e e n e e s u e an e ov r it ith r piqua t , lobst r, or Dutch a c , or y oth r that may be o n n . th ught suitabl e . Gar ish with praw s or crayﬁsh

COOKI NG AND SERVI NG FISH 1 01 — GR ILLED STUR GEON ESTURGEON GR ILLE

o e o f and in o e e been Cut a go d slic ﬁsh lay it s m salad oil , to which hav t e e and e o a e e e e . e e f o r an dd d sal , p pp r , bay l av s , bruis d cl v s L av half hour ; en e in e n and e ﬁre S e e th plac a doubl gridiro , broil ov r a slow . rv with

- a w ell seasoned sauce .

— STUFF ED PIKE BR OCHET FA RCI

n l the e e e 6 b. e n and e e the e Tak a pik w ighi g about ; cl a , r mov scal s ; ﬁll n e e ne e n S s n i sid with highly s aso d v al stufﬁ g . titch it up with a trus i g n ee e and n and n an e in the e dl stri g, form i to S shap sam way as for in tin . e e e e e n n haddock Plac a butt r d with som chopp d o io , carrot, a sprig

e o e n an d e e e of parsl y , s m mushroom trimmi gs , a littl sh rry ; cov r with d in h n e e e an t e e n e en the . butt r d pap r cook ov , basti g it fr qu tly with liquor en ne t e o n an the ﬂa v ourin h e e Wh do , lif out, r m vi g y of g t at may adh r to th e e n h . e n e t e it Mix with liquor som good brow sauc , maki g sur it is of n th en . en e e right co sist cy Th pour ov r ﬁsh . — TUNNY FIS H THON

in the e e ne n and in n This ﬁsh , which is caught M dit rra a is sold Britai e e e in can be e e nt n e and e on out pr s rv d oil , ith r cut i o thi slic s dish d salad n I n e ﬁne e e i n e e a d e . , with cap rs mix d with it, or cut pi c s fri d both cas s serve rémoulade sauce with it . — WEEVE R S VIVES

’ ’

e e ﬁsh can be e e au n a.l I talienne a e d hOtel & c . Th s s rv d grati , , la maitr , — CAR P CA R P E

l nd n e The e n e S e 5 h. a b st carp for cooki g purpos s hould w igh about , , si c

e are e e m be en in e n n e . I t e t th y muddy ﬁsh , xtra car ust tak cl a i g th m is b s wl b n th e th e e the and th e e e to r mov gills gall , which i l fou d at back of e n e e in e e h ead ; th en lay in salt water for an hour . N xt ri s th m cl ar wat r d e e e and and a n e . o n wip dry Lay a dish with a littl oil , p pp r, salt , broil ’ e S ﬁre S e e e d hOtel e e e ov r a low . rv with maitr sauc , to which a littl Harv y s e een e auc has b add d .

— ’ FORC ED CARP CA RP E FARCIE A L I TALI ENNE

S tuff th e carp with som e qu enelle forcem eat of whiting. S eason and

- in e e e e and e en in the en . and e e roll w ll butt r d pap r, bak g tly ov Dish , s rv with a boat of brow n I talian sauce. — FR IED CAR P CAR P E FR ITE

he e n the ne S n t & c. on plit a small carp dow back , r movi g backbo , Lay and e Oil and ne e n e a dish pour a littl vi gar ov r, addi g a bay l af, shallot, a A e n l e e e e and . en n ittl thym , p pp r , salt llow it to r mai two hours ; th drai ,

f e and e and n e en . rn lour, gg br adcrumb , fry to a ic gold colour Dish , ga ish 102 M ENU DISHES

e e and e e e e Géne v o ise I n e with fri d parsl y , s rv with ith r or talia sauc , or,

n ee an e e e ne . i d d , y ﬁsh sauc w ll s aso d

— STEWED CA R P CA RPE A LA ROMA

th and e in and r d e e e ne . a nd e Fill t carp st w ﬁsh stock wi Dish , cov r I n e and n e e e n e and te with talia sauc , gar ish with shr dd d gh rki , cap rs , lobs r coral — F R IED DAB S LIMA NDES FR ITES

e e are e e and e in e on n n Th s trimm d , ﬂour d , fri d lard or oil , dish d a apki , e with the sauce serv ed separat ly .

— COD WITH DUTCH SAUCE CAB ILLAUD A LA HOLLANDAI S E

e and e e This is cod boil d s rv d with a boat of D utch sauce .

— SLICES OF COD FR IED TR AN CHES DE CAB ILLAUD FR ITES

n e e e e e and e . A This co sists of slic s of cod , gg d , br adcrumb d , fri d boat

n o e e e e e e e . of a ch vy, lobst r, or oth r sauc is s rv d s parat ly — SLICES OF COD WITH ESPA GNOLE SAUC E TR ANCHES DE CAB ILLAUD ’ A L ES PAGNOLE

e e e e end e and in Tak som v ry small slic s of cod (tail ) ; ﬂour th m , fry a e n e n R e e the n and littl e clariﬁed butt r to a ic brow colour . mov ski place n n n t e i n e n e e eno to e . som boili g stock co tai i g a littl clar t, just ugh cov r h m wo s a n n Add e e t t e d e e e. S e p pp r , sal , a shallot, clov , a littl l mo juic imm r n n n e e the and e en e. g tly u til do Lift out, strai , r duc liquor, add to it som and e E n e e. e spag ol sauc Dish , pour sauc ov r . — GR ILLED COD CA B ILLAUD GR ILLE

e are e in e e e e For this , slic s of cod soak d oil , with p pp r, salt , bay l av s , e t and e and e o n e n e mac , shallo , parsl y , plac d a doubl gridiro to sav disturb n r An n n n . e ﬁ e e e e l ing the ﬁsh whe tur i g Grill ov r a slow . chovy ss c shou d be served with it . — GR ILLED COD A LA COLB ER T CAB ILLAUD GR ILLE A LA COLB ERT

’ en n e t d h t l Proceed as above. Wh goi g to tabl e lay som mai re O e butter ’ h l e and e e e d Ote e. ov r it, s rv with a boat of maitr sauc — EELS AN GUILLES

ee e ee and For stewed eels proceed as follows . Tak e thr liv ls kill by n e e o n e n e the o f th e e passi g a sharp sk w r or p i t d k if through back h ad , o n the n th e n e piercing the Spine . L ose ski about gills with a small k if h e in o ne n n e e . e t e u til abl to procur a ﬁrm hold Tak h ad a cloth with ha d , and the e the n e n t en o ff th e e d with oth r draw ski car fully dow ; h cut h a , t n e n e the and an e e n . Cu cl a s ﬁsh , lay by for hour or two b for usi g i to

- n o n and in e . S e n pieces 3 i . l g lay a buttered pie dish with som stock aso e e t e e n ee e and with p pp r, sal , a blad of mac , a small bu ch of sw t h rbs ,

1 04 ME NU DISHES

BAKED HAKE

Slice som e nice firm hak e about in. thick . Place in a dish which has een te e and n e e e b thickly but r d spri kl d with br ad crumbs, with which hav een e e e e e e and and e t e ne b mix d som chopp d parsl y , p pp r, salt, a v ry lit l fi ly in h e n n . e t e e e chopp d o io Pour a littl fish stock dish with th m , cov r with in h . e n nd t e & c e e o a e e e en . crumbs, , plac som butt r top , bak a mod rat ov I f e e e e e n ee e be e the pr f rr d , grat d Parm sa ch s may mix d with crumbs . — GUDGEON GOUJON S

e n are ene e e and e e Gudg o g rally br adcrumb d fri d as for sm lts . — GUR NAR D EN MATELOTE GR ONDIN EN MATELOTE

h . n n nd e R e e t e e Cut e S e . e a mov ﬁll ts i to ic hap s Flour, gg, br adcrumb , and n e o en on e in the e fry to a ic g ld colour . Dish a bord r of potato , shap n and e e e e n n n of a crow , pour som mat lot sauc rou d , usi g a good ﬁsh gar ish

for the centre .

’ — FILLETS OF GUR NAR D A L I TALI ENNE FILE TS DE G R ONDINS ’ A L I TALI ENNE

e e are ﬁlleted and e on an and e in th e en Th s plac d a sauté p cook d ov , n nd the ne e en and o e e e a . with s m good whit wi bo s with th m Th dish , e I t n e S e e e e be pour a whit alia sauc over . v ral oth r sauc s may sub ’ d h l n i e n n the n e e e Ote Gé evo se & c. stitut d , such as maitr , , , of cours cha gi g am he n of t dish accordi gly .

CHAPTER XXVI

S HE LL FI S H

— CR AB C RAB E

e e e e be n n For dr ss d crab, tak two good mal crabs, which may k ow by R n e n the e e . e e e n havi g much larg r claws tha f mal mov all m at, throwi g he and n Mix e o n oil t . e away gills apro with about a tabl spo ful of , som ne e e e and m e e e n vi gar, a littl p pp r, salt, ustard , or, if pr f rr d , with mayo n the e in one the e and n aise sauce. Put mixtur of sh lls gar ish with n chopp ed parsl ey a d lobster coral .

CR AY FI S H -ECR EVISSES

be S e e and in e n the e Crayﬁsh may h ll d put aspic j lly, usi g h ads for n e e n e ne and e e e be gar ish, aft r b i g cl a d brush d ov r with aspic ; or th y may n e e the nd e n e e & c. a e put i to a sauc mad from sh lls, h ads, , us d for ﬁlli g patti s,

- - au en 85 C . vol v t, SHELL FI SH 105

— SCALLOPS IN SHELLS PETONCLES EN COQUILLES AU G RATIN

t to e en e o and. en e n e no Tak a doz liv scall ps Op as for oyst rs , taki g car R e e th e ee e be e e and . e br ak d p sh ll , which must scour d w ll put to dry mov the beard and wash them well in several waters ; th en put them to drain . and n f w and in Butter the Shell spri kl e a e bread crumbs ov er ﬁll with the e een n e an d e in l e e e scallops, which hav b mi c d toss d a ittl whit sauc n t e e e ne e e e . e w ll s aso d, with a littl vi gar add d Cov r wi h br ad crumbs, d n i h on e t e e on an n t e en . wi h a littl butt r top , brow ov Dish a fold d napkin and serv e.

— OYSTER PATTIES BOUCH EES AUX HUITR ES

ff 42 and e e e e e see . 3 Pr par som small patty cas s from pu past ( p , vol i) d n mak e the ﬁlling as follows . Take tw elve sauce oysters an bri g them i n d h and n e o w . e an to boil th ir liquor Tak out remove t e beards black the and u and n e e een . C t n e e e substa c b tw hard soft parts i to small dic , l av

n h e R e e the on - en u til t e sauc is ready . duc liquor to e half ; th add half a n e and en be en pi t of boil d milk ; thick with white roux . Care must tak to e t e e n e e en n e the e o m hav it a lit l thick r tha is r quir d wh ﬁ ish d , as moistur fr the n A e en . e e f wn e oyst rs will t d to thi it ft r it has boil d for a e mi ut s add n d n u e ne e e e e an e e e . salt, cay p pp r , a littl cr am , a littl l mo juic Pass thro gh n a d r n a tammy cloth into a stewpa n mix in the dic e of oysters . B i g to the n the ti e en e in n n e boil , stirri g all m ; th plac a basi to cool u til r ady to ﬁll the cases . — OYSTE R VOL AU VENT VOL AU VENT AUX HUITR ES

ee e n n the t and e n the te Proc d as abov , usi g o ly soft par s l avi g oys r

- whole. For a vol au v ent to serve for six persons twenty four oysters will be e r quired . — OYSTE RS A LA BECHAMEL (COLD) HUITR ES A LA BECHAMEL (FR OID)

S the e e ee n n the and e e cald oyst rs as abov , k pi g o ly soft parts , r duc t the liquor u ntil only a tabl espoonful remai ns . Mix this with a lit l e e e e e n e and e e e ne s Bécham l sauc ; add a littl l mo juic m lt d g lati , ju t en set e e the e e and e ough to it ; cov r ach of oyst rs with this mixtur , plac

n enne e e in the en e e . en a small pi ch of cay p pp r c tr of ach Wh cold , brush ov er with aspic j elly and place o n a cheese bis cuit cut with a he t en n n e e e e t n t e . e rou d crimp d cutt r a littl larg r ha oys r Wh ﬁ ish d , dish o n and e e e small salad d corat with aspic j lly .

' — CROQUE I TES OF OYSTE Rs CROQUE TTES AUX HUIT RES

e e e n e the e e e the Pr par as for patti s , usi g, aft r sauc is pr par d , yolk of o e n ne S the in he e h a d t e e . et t in t e f ur ggs a li tl g lati yolk sauc , stir he i set en e n e e a nd e on t ce to . t e dic of oyst rs , plac Th mak I o shap s by n s E e an and e in e . d e rolli g th m br ad crumb gg w ll br adcrumb, fry to a

VOL. 11 . 7 4 1 06 MENU DISH ES

i 2 re F 1 9 . C ates a g. ux Huitres

n I f e S e e . e e h . o t e e be gold colour rv cold or hot s rv d , fri d parsl y should the garnish .

— K ROMES KIES OF OYSTE RS KR OMESKYS AUX HUITR ES

Use the e e o n e . en and set n sam pr parati as abov Wh cold , roll i to ’ n in e e o the e o f ne . e e e e e pi c s ab ut siz a wi cork Fold th s atly calv s ﬂar ,

t en in o e and in n en o . h dip a go d batt r, fry boili g fat to a gold col ur n n n e Ano e e e en e Dish o a apki with fri ed parsl y . th r mor xp siv way is to n s et hard on the ice a slab of butter abo ut 2 in . thick ; the cut with a n and e and ro n e t he e . e u d cutt r about siz of a shilli g Flour th m , gg n nd e e e e e . e o e e br adcrumb twic ov r Mak a mark at with a small r cutt r,

n r h Of e the t e be and th e e a d f in e o t . y v ry fat cours bu t r will lost, cas r emains to be ﬁll ed up with the hot mixture .

’ — ’ OYSTE RS A L A D UXELLES HUITRES A LA D UXELLES

h n e S the e e n n t e e e . e cald oyst rs , r tai i g d licat soft part Wh cold , cov r ’ with d Ux elleS sauce to which has been added enough m elted gelatine set and e on the ice en in e and e and to it , plac ; th roll br ad crumbs gg, o n breadcrumb them twice ov er to sav e th em from bursting . Dish a ’ lleS n n ie e and e e t d Ux e e. apki with fr d parsl y , s rv with a boa of sauc

— SCALLOP ED OYSTE RS COQUILLE S AUX HUITR ES

n n e e th e e f o r e n e . e e Pr par sauc as patti s , addi g two gg yolks Wh ﬁ ish d , place a littl e of the sauce in eith er silv er sh ells or the deep sh ells o f the and i h n e he e te n e . e t e e t oys r, put two oyst rs Cov r with r mai d r of sauc ; n e e e a nd f ewn e e on the spri kl ov r with br ad crumbs a pi ch s of butt r top , a nd n in h n n t e e . n n e e ee e brow ov Dish on a apki . Grat d Parm sa ch s may a be e lso add d if d esired .

1 08 MENU D ISHES

BS R A'IT I ES — U E S M R LO TE . P BO CH E DE HO A D

t and e e e e e e e St e. en Pr par as for cutl s, mak sauc from sh ll , h ad , Wh of n en and e e s ne in the e nd n e . a c e a ic co sist cy w ll s a o d , stir m at Boil , pla to in h et e t e e . g cool , r ady cas s

i —B es d m F 1 1 . o c é e o a d g . 3 u h H r

— LOB STER MAYONNAI S E MAYONNAI S E DE HOMAR D

n e and n S e o n ut the e e . C Mak a ic salad , form i to hap a silv r dish f w h d e e t e e e e n s n h e an . t e lobst r up, sav a of b st pi c s for gar i hi g Lay n he an d e o e nn The n e n e o t e . r mai d r salad , cov r all v r with mayo ais mayo n aise must be stiff er than th e mayonnaise sauce and it is a good plan to e i n e e n the e e . e n e work a littl aspic j lly it B for spr adi g, gar ish with pi c s of

h o e - l e e t e e e e & 0. obst r sav d for purp s , coral , cucumb r, hard boil d gg,

— LOB STER MAYONNAI S E IN CAS ES PETITE MAYONNAI SE DE HOMA RD EN CAI SSES

A e a n the e o e n - e ft r t ki g out of sh ll a g od ﬁrm lobst r , cut it i to good siz d e e and e nn se e e e and pi c s cov r with mayo ai sauc , to which som aspic j lly a

e e te e t ne e een e . S n e e e littl m l d g la i hav b add d pri kl ov r with lobst r coral , n set e a nd . e e e . e e put to cool Wh , brush ov r with m lt d aspic Pr par a salad e e en e and e m o nn e and the n of l ttuc , div , small cr ss , mix with ay ais trimmi gs f o n n o e a d ee e e e e e o n o r . l bst r , proc d to ﬁll som fa cy pap r cas s, ith r r u d oval on e e n h o n n Lay e pi ece of pr par d lobster o t e t p of each . Gar ish rou d with n n e e o e e a d e e . slic d cucumb r, dish a lac pap r, s rv — LOBSTER R ISSOLES RISSOLES DE HOMAR D

e e e es e n in e Pr par as for patti s , fold about a d s rtspoo ful short past , stick i n f n o e e o e e S e e e . g it cours with gg , cut i t a s micircl hap with a crimp d cutt r E e and n e e e e and in e gg ov r spri kl with v rmic lli or br ad crumbs , fry cl ar n . e e e e e t e . fat Wh hot , s rv fri d parsl y wi h th m SHELL FISH 109 — SCALLOPED LOB STE R COQUILLES DE HOMAR D

S t the e e e e n e . Tak som lobst r patty m at, addi g two yolks of ggs pli b e in t n e e n it and tte and n e ody sh ll half wi h a k if , cl a , bu r spri kl with

. La i n h w e t e e on e e s br ad crumbs y pr parati , cov r with br ad crumb , ith a e he e and t nd n in th e e e e a e en . pi c of butt r r h r , brow ov — CU RR IED LOBS TE R HOMA R D AU KA R I (KAR I DE HOMA R D)

Cut the te n es and n e e. lobs r i to good slic , throw i to som good curry sauc d e an t n n e e. Mak thoroughly hot , dish wi hi a wall of plai boil d ric

POTTED LOBSTE R

n the e hen e e d d n Pou d all m at from a lobst r to a smooth past , a i g about te s n Of n e s en e e enne and e n t e and a a poo ful a chovy s c , a littl cay grat d u m g , n run 6 o z . e e . s e e e ne in a d of butt r (fr sh) Pas through a si v , plac atly jars , n e e e te o n he a thi lay r of cr am d but r t top . — QUENELLES OF LOBSTER QUENELLES DE HOMA R D

Pou nd the ﬂ esh of a fresh - boiled lobster along with a good - sized n and ee e ene e n n the n whiti g , proc d xactly as for qu ll s of whiti g, usi g spaw h r o f t e lobster passed through a S ie v e to colou it with .

— MUSSE Ls MOULES

e e e e n e n on the ﬁre This sh llﬁsh r quir s car ful watchi g , as by b i g too

m n n . the n e e . e e e & c lo g it b com s hard To pr par th for gar ishi g scallops , ,

e e . e e s e b st m thod is as follows Tak a quart of muss l , thoroughly scrap and e and e in e n n te ne wash th m , plac a st wpa , with half a pi t of whi wi ,

n e . e and o ee t e n n and . a a carro , a slic d o io , ha dful of parsl y Cov r, pr c d to th e a re ene e and e e the e hot . en e S mak Wh h lls op d , tak out r mov black

a nd e d and ee use. part , b ar k p for — SCALLOP ED MUSS ELS COQUILLES DE MOULES

Proceed as above ; then butter som e silv er sh ells (well - scoured scallop in e en the e e shells will do) and lay som e mussels ach . Moist with r duc d ne e e n and e e e liquor obtai d from th m ; s aso , cov r with br ad crumbs, plac

s e e e e on and n i n en . om pi c s of butt r top , brow a sharp ov 1 10 MENU DI SHES

CHAPTER XXVI I

FI S H E NTR EE S

RICE BOR DE RS FOR ENTR EES

Wash two handfuls of rice and put in a stewpan with half milk a nd e o ent n e e n e half wat r , c ok g ly , addi g mor wat r as it soaks up , u til it is quit n n m t and n e o o n e l b a pulp , tur i to or ar pou d quit sm oth , lift to a marbl s a and tighten up with ground rice u ntil ﬁrm ; th en roll out with rolli ng pin e n the e and e e e e and let et . cut out siz r quir d , pi ch dg (as shortbr ad) g cold e e n e and be n e e This is a v ry simpl way of maki g a bord r, will fou d v ry us ful .

— ’ OYSTE R FR ITTER S BEIGNETS D HUITR ES

O n e e e e e and n on e e . btai som larg fat oyst rs ; b ard th m , drai a hair si v S n e t e t e e and and e e e e pri kl h m wi h p pp r salt som chopp d parsl y . Dip ach l nt te and i one se arate i o e n n . p y a light frit r batt r , fry hot drippi g or lard n n and n on e e . Dish a apki , gar ish with fri d parsl y

— ’ OYSTER FR ITTER S A LA VILLEB OL BEI GNETS D HUITR ES A LA VI LLE R OI — S e e o e r e o e the e and o n ' cald som larg , fat yst s ; r m v b ard tough p rtio n n R e e the drain on a S ie v e or apki . duc liquor un til almost lost ; add n n e e o o n th to the e ough G erma or whit sauc t c v er th em . Bri g e sauce and o e en e e in re boil, add a y lk or two of gg. Th dip ach oyst r this p i n and em n d - i n e nd e arat o o et . e a p , lay th a ish to g cold Dip ach gg br ad

n e - n o . t o ee n crumbs . Fry to a ic light brow c lour Put wor thr o a small S e e e o n n n and n e e ilv r sk w r, dish a apki , gar ish with fri d parsl y.

— ’ OYSTER S ON SK E WE R s HATELETTES D HUITR E S

S e e e n e and e e the o o n cald som larg fat oyst rs ; drai th m , r mov tough p rti . th Put three or four o n a tiny wood en skew er . With e liquo r mak e a h e d n t r I m e t e e e e . t be si ilar sauc to abov , a di g a lit l chopp d pa sl y must e e e can be e n the e and mad mod rat ly thick , so that it pour d all rou d oyst rs to e ld t e n e n o n put away g t co . Shape h m with a k if i to s m ethi g lik e a in e c s in e and en i n e cork ; roll br ad rumbs ; to assist thi , dip gg, th br ad n e n in an n crumbs ; do that twice . Fry to a ic light brow a p of hot drippi g l R m e he en e e and r n in . e o v t e o e its or lard wood sk w r, put a small silv ’ d n . n o an t e o e e e . plac Dish a d yl y, gar ish wi h fri d parsl y

— ’ OYSTERS ON CR OUTE s CR OUTES D HUITR E S A LA CALAI SI ENNE

an be h u nd This dish c served cold as w ell as o t . C t a bak e some

croﬁto ns h - - n and of S hort paste about t e size of half a crow . Scald trim R e h n some large fat oysters . duce t e liquor u til almost lost ; add milk and e en o e e e e and S e and a cr am ; thick with s m whit roux ; add p pp r alt to tast , n T e e e . h e b e o e n o littl utm g sauc must e mod erately thick . Dip ach yst r i t e a nd n h r f e n f o t e oﬁ es o ne t e . w c t o o this sauc lay , ach Drop a grai s enn n n I f e o e o e . e e be e a dd cay ach this dish is s rv d cold , it will advisabl to

1 12 MENU D I SHES

n o e in rou nd with a piece of cotto or thread . B il th m some salt water for n and et fiv e or ten mi utes tak e out to g thoroughly cold . Butter well a n plain mould and d ecorate it with slices of fill ets . Li e with a delicate n forcem eat mad e with a fresh whiti g or haddock . Cut up the remai nd er and f ew n o f the soles ; add sliced mushrooms a qu e ell es mad e from the o e e t e s e e the ne and f rc m at ; add also a li tl auc mad from fish bo s , with this in h preparation fill t e Chartreuse. Put a layer Of forcem eat ov er all and

e one o ne and . n on the st am from to a half hours Tur to dish , but do n e e no t remov e the m o uld for a mi ute. Pour sauc all over just befor n servi g. CR EPI NETTES A LA CAR DINAL

Mak e a good forcem eat from the rough parts of two lobsters and a fresh n o e e e S n and n in whiti g. Colour this with s m pr par d paw , fold portio s a ’ n - h pig s caul that has been pre viously soak ed i cold water . S ee that t e d t e en e n h o e e e e ne an e e . T e f rc m at is prop rly s aso d , a li tl ss c of a chovy add d r 2 in n nd I in nd c é i nettes o be . a . e a p sh uld about lo g } wid , as thick as fi em in e e . Se e ra o t e a cutl et . Fry th clarifi d butt r rv with a g mad from the e the e e ene e and trufll e b st parts of lobst rs , som mushrooms , qu ll s , a e n e e the e n & c slic d . Pour a good cardi al sauc mad from sh ll trimmi gs ,

round the base of the entrée .

S OF S S — S S S A FILLET OLE , VENETIAN TYLE FILET DE OLE LA VEN ETI ENNE (COLD)

S n and on e n e s e the e e . t Tak fill ts of sol s ki lay a tabl , ski sid up ; du t l e and rea t e een o e wi h a ittl flour sp d wi h fish farc , which has b c lour d en and in an with lobster spawn . Th fold lay a sauté p with a littl e fish S e n e e and e e e e an d o liquor . aso with p pp r salt , cov r with butt r d pap r, co k

in an en ten n te . en o e e e m the ov for mi u s Wh c ld , cov r with a sauc mad fro and e e e S n e liquor and two yolks of eggs a littl aspic j lly to s t it. pri kl with e n e e and o n s chopp d tarrago , brush lightly ov r with aspic j lly , dish alad

d eco rated with cucumber .

MOUSSELINE DE SAUMON A LA MONTMOR ENCY (COLD)

1 l - f n e b. O n e e ee m ne and i Tak salmo cut i to small pi c s fr fro bo sk n. n in n o f i Pou d a mortar with 1 oz . of bread pa ada (crumb bread soaked n and e Add h e and milk rubb d smooth) . t e whites of three raw ggs pass fin n nd B re a d through a e wire si e v e ; put i to a basin a beat w ell . S eason P a n a d a e n n Add ill with p pper a d salt and a dash of anchovy esse ce. a g e m and e o n ice n en e in n t of cr a plac u til required . Th shap a spoo wi h n e and o ff n n a k if lift with a o th er spoon on to a sauté pa . Pour boili ng fish n e and en f o r ten n e . en stock rou d th m , poach g tly mi ut s Wh cold , cover with whi te sauce (fish) in which is mixed chopped truffl e and lobster

r . e a nd s on e e . co al Brush ov r with aspic , di h a bord r of whipp d aspic n Gar ish with cucumber . SWEETBREAD AND OTHER ENTREES 1 1 3 — MOUSSE OF LOBSTER IN ASP I C MOUSS E DE HOMA RD EN ASPIC (COLD)

n the e h en o e n e e the Pou d m at of a l bst r , taki g car to sav coral for n S ten d ecorati g . of with a littl e cream and pass through a wire si ev e . n n and ent in i e t e n Put i to a basi g ly stir a g ll of good cr am , a lit l a chovy d t n e en e an e . the e e f and ss c , a spo of cochi al Whip up whit s of two ggs stif , en t e e t t e e o n s uﬂlé stir all g tly og th r wi h a li tl aspic j lly . P ur i to mould (or o e e e e t f e and e cas ) pr viously d corat d with coral , ru ﬂ , parsl y.

FILLETS OF SOLE IN CHINA SHELLS - FILETS DE SOLES EN COQUILLES A LA FAVOR ITE (COLD)

This co nsists of chi na sh ells ﬁlled with ﬁll e ts of sole and pi eces of te o e nn e a nd e te n and ra n lobs r, c at d with mayo ais , d cora d with a praw tar go n on e n . l eaves . Dish a fold d apki

CHAPTER XXVI I I

SWE ETBR E AD A ND OTH E R E NTREE S

SwE ETB R EAD — I s R S DE VEAU

’

e e e and n the in l e . Tak a good pair of calv s br ads, bri g to boil co d wat r As soo n as th ey boil throw into cold wa ter ; th en pick any skin o ff and cut s n n e n the uperﬂuo us part away . Put with trimmi gs i to a st wpa with a n an n n e e e carrot, a small tur ip , half o io , a littl parsl y, a sprig of thym , d e o f e e e t and e an . a bay l af , a blad mac Cov r with half whit s ock half n ne o n to e n the and t en milk ; cook u til do . Lift out a plat , strai liquor , hick nd e e and a e . S e o n a with whit roux as add som cr am , pass through a t mmy

and s e e . cloth . Dish pour auc ov r

' ‘ MEDALLIONS OF SWEE I B R E ADS -m MEDAI LLONS DE R I S DE VEAU

o as e n e no t to o t e to o . en C ok abov , taki g car co k h m much Wh cold , cut

» the e as e n e an s n e in . . e cros ways i to slic s A thick Mak sauc abov , u l ss y S e o ne e e and the e e o n o n o e p cial is r quir d , dish pi c s r u d a b rd r of potato or i n the en e and u e e e n . o n a forcem eat bo rd er . Plac a gar ish c tr po r sauc ov r n Lay a slice of truffl e on eac h m edallio .

’ — ’ SWEETBR EADS A LA D UXE LLEs RI S DE VEAU A LA D UXELLES

Th ese a re slices of sweetbread prepared as abov e and cov ered all ov er ’ d x ll s e en o and set in e en e with U e e sauc . Wh c ld , roll br ad crumbs ; th gg ’ wd Ux elles s e e n an and e e d breadcrumb and fry. Dish s rv ith auc pour d rou d ﬁI s and a garnish of mushro o m and tru e . — SWE ATB R EADS A LA VI LLE BOI R 18 D E VEAU A LA VI LLE ROI

n the s e e n e n s a e These are serv ed i am way as abov , usi g G rma uc to

t e n v e e e n s a nd e e e coat h m wi th . Gar ish with a g tabl gar i h whit sauc pour d ro u nd . V OL. 11 . 1 14 MENU DISHES

’ — ’ SWEETB RE ADS A L OR LY RI S DE VEAU A L OR LY

e e n e e ee ea e in e e and Th s co sist of slic s of cook d sw tbr d dipp d batt r , fri d , e and e e served with tomato sauc fri d parsl y .

SWEETB READS IN CASES

e ee e n n e e he Cook som sw tbr ads accordi g to umb r r quired . Mak e t white e the e e e e in n e e S e n sauc from liquor th y w r cook d , addi g xtra cr am . aso h e . en t t e e e ee e and e m w ll Wh cold , mix wi h pi c s of sw tbr ad slic d mushroo and e and in n e e e e e s truffl , fill fa cy pap r cas s . Plac som bright chopp d a pic nd n t e on a e e fle. j lly top, gar ish wi h a littl chopp d truf

FR IED SWEETBR EAD sﬂ R I S DE VEA U FR ITS

n and n en e in e c e e e e and Bla ch ski , th brais som sto k with v g tabl parsl y in h e e. ee t e en n ne ne en e and a blad of mac K p ov u til arly do ; th tak out, , nt e e e E an en e e e e. d e wh cold , cut i o slic s, or , if pr f rr d , s rv whol gg br ad and en and e e I t n e crumb fry to a gold colour, s rv with tomato, alia , or oth r

- n w ell seaso ed sauce. — SWEETB READS A LA TOULOUSE B IS DE VEAU A LA TOUL OUSE

Blanch and skin a pair of good sweetbreads ; then lard them by cutting s n e n n can be e f or the trips of fat baco , call d lardi g baco , which purchas d

Fig . 1 32 w e n b h e a do on i t st d o n h e s i e d n need s . I t s t t a . a La doo n. b c La di h p h , r , , r g l l r ru l I n 0 th e l ardoo n is threaded thro ugh th e ri ng

e and n e in ne in the to the ee e purpos , drawi g th m at rows p of sw tbr ad e in e o o e with a lardi ng needle (fig. Brais som g d whit stock with f we e n and e e e e of e e e v g tabl , parsl y, a sprig thym , a p pp rcor s , a blad of t financiere n and o e e m ace u ntil done . Dish wi h a gar ish s m good whit s w e s e e e eetb ad n a n sauce made from th e liquo r . This is som tim s call d r fi

ci ére e ten ee e ﬁnanciere are e e n . , though mor of sw tbr ads s rv d brow

— R I S A ST. SWEETB R EADS A LA ST. CLOUD DE VEAU LA CLOUD

These are lard ed with pieces o f tongu e and trufﬂe and braised and A n o f te e he on an d e e e n . dis d potato, whit sauc is pour d rou d gar ish s am d

1 1 6 M ENU DISHES

the e in e e n n ﬁ nish in the ov en . Dip oth r half som G rma sauce a d leav e d n E and e e an in ee . e on u til cold . gg br adcrumb th m fry d p fat Dish th m t e n te a n and e can be e n a bord er o f po ato alt r a ly . G r ish sauc s vari d accordi g to taste .

’ ’ MB S S B R S MI LANESE ﬂ R I S D AGNEAU A S LA WEET EAD , LA MILANAI E

h an n e e in Blanch t e breads d lard the h eart o es . Brais th m som e good n i n e n stock and glaze th em icely . Dish a circl o a border of potato or

' — n al a Mi anaise 1 . R is d A eau Fig . 33 g l

ene e and th e en e m e on e e n e qu ll , ﬁll c tr with a ixtur of macar i , shr dd d to gu , and e een e e t e n ee e mushrooms , trufﬂ s, which has b dr ss d wi h Parm sa ch s , n e and the n e e e n n . e . butt r, c ssary s aso i g Pour a rich tomato sauc rou d

’ — ’ LAMB S SWEETB R EADS AND SP INAC H B I S D AGNE AU AUX EPI NARD S

Lard and braise th e sweetbreads and dish th em o n a platea u of dressed

- e e e o e . Spinach . Pour som d mi glaz all v r

’ MB S S BR S S S R — S SS S LA WEET EAD IN CA E , G ATINATED PETITE CAI E DE ’ R I S D AGNEAU AU GR ATIN

Braise enough sweetbreads to ﬁll the n ecessary number of buttered n e ut the ee ea and em in ram equi or other pape r cas s . C sw tbr ds put th h and e I ta n e e . w t e e e cas s Fill ith a v ry rich rath r thick lia sauc , w ll n o e n - e e the to ﬂavoured wi th S h erry . Spri kle s m brow br ad crumbs ov r p and stan d them in a sauté pan to mak e thoroughly hot in the oven .

SC P S B R S P E S — ESC P S R I S ALLO ED WEET EAD , DAU HIN TYLE ALO E DE DE VEAU A LA DAUP HINE

e n e Braise the sweetbreads and let th em get cold . Cut th m i to slic s and lay in a sauté pan to warm in so m e G erman or Bécham el sauce. Cut som e croﬁtons of tongue the sam e size rou nd as th e sweetbreads Lay SWEETBREAD AND OTHER ENTREES 1 1 7

s in n n i e e e an e e a d n the en . th a oth r sauté p , glaz th m , warm ov Dish n e e o n o e o . n e alt r at ly a b rd r of p tato Put a gar ish of mushrooms , trufﬂ s , n e and an o dd e e o f ee e be e in the en e to gu , y pi c s sw tbr ad that may ov r c tr , a nd e e n e e n th e pour som G rma or Bécham l sauc rou d e bas .

’ ESCALOP ES DE R I S DE VEAU A L AROHI DUCH ESSE

n the ee e an n e a o n t Bla ch sw tbr ads d cut them i to slic s . L rd e wi h f the ne e n . n n o e e a d e e . tru ﬂ s, xt with bac Brais th m glaz ic ly Dish e e n e o n t e e i n the th m alt r at ly a border of po ato . Put a puré of p as en e and E n e e o e t e n the e. c tr , a rich spag ol sauc ﬂav ur d wi h sh rry rou d bas

Ox KIDNEY SAUTE

e an ne and in n e i n Tak OX kid y cut it thi S lices . M lt a pat of butter nd e the n in nd an a e . S e n e e a and a sauté p plac kid y aso with p pp r salt , e i n the e t n n s o e . Add k e p t o mov for e mi ute . Dredge ov r with ﬂ ur and S e f o r ﬁv e n es a gill of good stock half a gill of Chablis . imm r mi ut , d e e e an e e. add som chopp d parsl y , s rv

TR I P E A LA FR ANCAISE

n n and 1 . 4 n . e he Shred two o io s lb of tripe about 1 ; in . lo g Plac t n i n an r n n e d f o e . o io n a sauté pa with 1 oz . of butt r y to a g ld colour n v n o en Add the tripe and continu e fryi g for ﬁ e mi utes more . M ist with 1 E a n e e and 1 e e. gill of stock , gill of sp g ol sauc , a littl tomato puré _ n S and in e S en e . e e e . imm r for tw ty mi ut s kim , throw som chopp d parsl y

S eason and serv e. ’ CALVES B RAINS A LA SPEZ IA

’ in e an n n Soak two calv es brains cold wat r for hour . Ski a d put to ' nd n boil in water with a littl e salt a vi egar added . Cook gently for fifteen minutes ; set them u nd er the hot - water tap for fiv e minutes ; th en I n the e n e e e o e n n a nd put to cool . m a tim pr par s m small o io s fry to a golden brown ; put into a pint of brown sauce along with som e fresh e S e ent the e the e the n n cook d mushrooms . imm r g ly by sid of stov till o io s i r th n n e e n . . a e e . S e e cook d lic brai s i to pi c s A thick Dust with flour,

e and and in ee t n . s on t gg crumb, fry d p fat to a ligh brow Di h a po ato d in en e and e n e n n an . bord r, with O io mushroom c tr , pour sauc rou d

MINCED VEAL

C ut an e n e e n o e and in e y r mai s of cook d v al i t small squar s, lay a st w an S e n e e and and e e n e e e p . aso with p pp r salt a littl grat d utm g , dr dg a

e e and e e o . S e en littl ﬂour ov r it, add a littl whit st ck imm r g tly for half o n d n J e e e n e e e an e . a hour. ust b for s rvi g add a littl l m juic cr am Dish with pieces of toasted bread cut in triangl e shapes . — VEAL CR OQUETTEs CR OQUETTES DE VEAU

e e n e e n en e e s n l Pr par as for mi c d v al , addi g wh r ady a t a poo fu of O f e ee o n the ﬁr chopped parsl ey and the yolks four ggs . K p e for a f ew 1 1 8 MENU D IS HES

n e set the n the e en n on mi ut s to yolks , stirri g all tim ; th tur out a dish ,

and ac e on ice . en e e e e on the pl Wh quit ﬁrm , spr ad som br ad crumbs e R the e n the e and tabl . oll out mixtur i to shap size of corks ; roll th em i n bread crumbs ; th en dip th em in eggs (which hav e been beaten for a n n n n in ee mi ute) a d roll i crumb agai . Fry d p fat to a gold en co lo ur and o n n n e e dish a apki , with fri d parsl y.

’ - — CALVEs FEET FR I TT E R s PIEDS DE VEAU EN F RITUR E

’ The calves feet m ust be boil ed in just enough water to mak e them S n the on e e e . S n h quit soft. trai away liquor ; pick out all b s aso t e m eat e e and and e e e e een e with p pp r salt a littl chopp d parsl y , put b tw two dish s to and t t n e e . e en pr ss, g horoughly cold With a rou d cutt r cut out ough pi eces for the entree and lay i n a littl e vi negar and oil for an hour or n o n e e On SO. Drai a si v ; dust bo th sides with flour ; dip in a light d in an e e an . on n n n fritt r batt r, fry a p of hot fat Dish a apki . Gar ish e a e and e e n e I n e e with fri d p rsl y , s rv piqua t , tomato, talia , or som oth r in rich sauce with th em a boat .

’ S - S — S A S CALVE FEET, TOULOU E PIED DE VEAU LA TOULOU E

’ e e and e the e e n an Pr par pr ss calv s f et. Cut out e ough pi eces with e e e n n e oval or round cutter . Spr ad som thick G rma sauce o each sid ; n n and dip the m in egg a d bread crumbs twice . Shape them icely fry

n o o . n n in h o t fat . Dish o a bord er of p tat Put a gar ish of butto mush a n e and e e in the en e and rooms, sc llops of to gu , a slic d trufﬂ c tr , pour a e e n the e rich white sauc ﬂavour d with sh erry rou d bas .

R S R S — R S A R S VEAL G ENADIN , NIVE NAI E G ENADIN DE VEAU LA NIVE NAI E

f e and Lard som e thick v eal cutl ets with strips o fat bacon . Brais and i n the en e e e . on e glaz th m richly Dish a bord r of potato , c tr put en n e som e nicely dressed turnips that hav e be cut with a fa cy cutt r .

s Pour som e G erman sauce ro u nd the ba e .

CHAPTER XXI X

FOI E GRAS AND OTHER ENTREES — SMALL CA SES OF FOIE GR AS AND TR U FFLES PETITES CAI SSES DE FOIE GR A S AUX TRUFFES

Oil th e ram a uin e and e i n the en n e q cas s , put th m ov for a mi ut or

entree the e e ho be e . Cu t two to dry . For this whol liv r s uld us d it i nto sm all thick pi eces and lay in the cases alternately with som e sliced

e the e t e - ﬂav oured Ge n e and e trufﬂ . Fill up cas s wi h a w ll rma sauc mak n them thoroughly hot through in the ov e .

1 20 MENU DI SHES

— SWEETB R EAD IN TIMB ALE TI MB ALE DE R I S DE VEAU EN DEMI DUEL

Butter w ell a plain mould and d ecorate it with truffles and steam ed e the e e n white of egg . Cov r whol d coratio with a rather thick layer of e ene e e e and the d elicat qu ll forc m at, fill cavity with small pi eces of sw eet e n e and e e e br ad , to gu , mushrooms , truffl s mix d with a littl thick white e n e Of e e and e m f o r sauce . Cov r with a thi lay r forc m at st a an hour and a

n on t he do no t e e the o f o r . n half Tur to dish , but r mov m uld a mi ute . et e and e ent e n This allows it to s tl , pr v s it from br aki g . Pour som e e e e and n e n the e whit sauc all ov r, spri kl rou d bas with a little chopp ed trufﬂ e . MB L L S S — MB L A S TI A E , MI ANE E TYLE TI A E LA MILANAI E

n n e an d e Tak e a rou d plai Charlott mould butter w ell . Mak a paste by n . the o n 1 e 3 . e inch rubbi g oz butt r i to oz ﬂour with y lks of two ggs , a p of r and e e e n to r e an d e n in suga , v ry littl wat r , mixi g a fi m past s tti g a cool

t th e te o n the o s e . e e t plac Lay som s rips of pas r u d m uld , bru h ov r wi h f e and u t n n e e . e S e wat r, p a li i g of puf past all ov r Boil som pagh tti till 2 n o e n o n and n e e i . on . e c ok d , drai a cloth , cut i to pi c s l g Mix with som

e m e n ee e e on e e and e e nu t grat d Par sa ch s , s as with p pp r, salt , a littl grat d m in th e o e e and e in a e en e . g Fill mould , c v r with past , bak m dium ov . en o o e n on an n tree d out the en e the to Wh c k d , tur out e ish , out c tr of p, and e e the e en en tak out som of spagh tti , suffici t to hold about a doz small en en e e e ne S e e o n e 8m o and fle chick qu ll s , som fi ly hr dd d t gu , , mushr om truf n s e and o n mixed i n G erma auc br ught up to a pyramid o top . Pour s om e n nd e trufll o n h e n e a e e e t e e. G rma sauc rou d , d corat with chopp d sauc

— VEGETA BLE CHAR TR EUSE CHA R TR EUSE DE LEGUMES

n o te o e e o e e Butter a plai Charl t m uld w ll . D c rat it with a vari ty of partly cook ed v egetabl es ; th en line it with a delicate fo rce m eat mad e from n the en e ne o f o e e e e o r e . e v al chick Fill c tr with a Macédoi co k d v g tabl s, a

e e e and th e ne e e on n . e r e littl thick whit sauc , c ssary s as i g Put a lay r of fo c d t m n an o to an o and e o e an e e . m at v r all , s a lik a puddi g for h ur h ur a half t h e h n o t e h n e n o n o t e t e . Tur dis , but do r mov mould for a mi ut or so Pour n a nicely ﬂavo ured white sauce rou d .

CHAR TR EUS E EN DEMI DUEL

e e o o r e o e and e e Butt r a Charlott m uld small Timbal m ulds w ll , d corat n e ene e with black trufﬂ es a d steam ed white of egg . Put a lay r of light qu ll o e e n th e to an d the en e t en n e f rc m at all rou d p ﬁll c tr wi h chick , to gu , mush

and l ene e e i n e n e . e rooms, smal qu ll s mix d G rma sauc Put a lay r of D fo rcem eat ov er and steam lik e a puddi ng for a n hour and a half. O no t rem o v e the mould f o r a minute o r so after turning it o n to the dish . r o e e n e o n the se and S n e o e t f e e Pou s m G rma sauc r u d ba , pri kl ch pp d ru ﬂ ov r s r n I n ju t befo e servi g . f small moulds a re us ed th e ﬁlling should be cut i to e dic . EE F R 2 E R S O O A E ETC . 1 1 NT P ULT Y, G M ,

CHAPTER XXX

E TREE S OF P O LTR A G ME E T . N U Y , , C

ZEP HYRS DE CANETON A LA BELLE I LE

th e e o ff n e ﬁr m n e i n the m o rta r t 2 . Tak all m at a ic duck , pou d wi h oz

o' n ee . wo w e s t r a e s and s t ﬁne e br ad pa ada ( p add , pa s hrough a wir gg e t e e n t e e and and f n e e . O e si v B a w ll , s aso wi h p pp r salt a dash utm g , add

n e en e e n in o it s half a pi t of cr am , th try a littl by st ami g a small m uld ( mu t

be n s et . e t n o n n o tte e and o ly just ) N x fill i t a rou d small savari m uld , bu r d , n nt n steam ge tly for tw e y mi utes . Hav e ready som e round cro CI tes of puff d e in . a n n o ut n r fi e e o e c o t . o n e o f past (bak d) i thick , tur ach Dish a puré S n en o n n s and the en e e e pi ach l gthways a lo g di h , fill c tr of ach z phyr with e e e een e e in red ne fiv e n e small ch rri s (which hav b simm r d wi for mi ut s) . Mak e the sauce by choppi ng up the carcass o f the duck with an on ion and n e e e and e E n e e e a pi ch of sag , r duc add to som spag ol sauc , also a tabl f the ne the e e and n o n o . en spo ful wi from ch rri s , pour all rou d Chick may

e o ne in the me n ne e e a e n an d b d sa way , usi g a macédoi of v g t bl s for gar ish e white sauc . — SMALL ROUNDS OF TUR KEY FILLETS MI R OTON DE DINDONNEAU A LA CHATELAINE

e the e n e e et Tak ﬁll ts from a plump you g turk y , b at out with a cutl in an S e n n e e and . ee a b at r, lay a sauté lic a small o io , half a l k , a c rrot , p . and a turnip ; put with som e trimmi ngs of ham i n to a ste wpan ; add a li ttl e

a e e e e e e and at p rsl y, a sprig of thym , two bay l av s , a blad of mac , a p v n an t e S e ﬁ e e d e e he e . o of butt r . imm r for mi ut s spr ad ov r ﬁll ts P ur a h e wt e e e and k en n e t e e in pi t of stock ov r whol , cov r i h butt r d pap r, coo g tly

I n th e e nt r the oven u ntil quite te nd er ; th en put aside to cool . m a im e p e pare with th e m eat fro m the thighs a qu enelle m eat (s am e as for chick en ) ; th en cut with a rou nd cutter the size of a ﬁv e - shilli ng pi ece as many ﬁll ets

re e c e e the e and e o te as may be required . Sp ad a h pi c with farc d c ra wi th in the an e an d e e n e . ten smok d to gu Put back sauté p ; cov r , st am for h e ene e n e o minutes to set t qu lle m at . Trim as ma y artichok b ttoms as

ere are e o the ent e and in s t t e uree o f th ﬁll ts , holl w out c r , ﬁll with ar ub a p

- n n the t o e and n e ch estnut . Dish bridge fashio dow a dish with ar ich k s ois tte n S e e e o e een e potato alter ately . rv with v l uté sauc to which has b add d s reduced liquor from the ﬁll et . — SMALL PIECES OF RA B B IT B RAI Z ED G R ENADIN S DE LA PE REAU A LA MAINTENON

e n o o ff the e a nd the c the e t Tak a you g rabbit, ch p l gs cut ba k (with ﬁll s

- h a o n n o e a l s e e e and e t o n f a t . Cut u a o t ) i t qu iz d pi c s , lard th m wi b c p a c rr n ee a nd an o n o n e i n s te n o f te a tur ip , a l k , i ; plac a wpa with a pat but r ,

f we e n a nd s O f t e s et it to e t e e e : a lit l parsl y , a p pp rcor s , a prig hym frizzl V L . 6 O . II 7 1 22 MENU DISHES

en en th e e e o n and n n e ten n g tly ; th lay pi c s of rabbit top co ti u for mi utes . Add n n and e ent e ende a pi t of boili g stock simm r g ly till quit t r . Lift out , n th and e e Ad e . d strai liquor, r duc with a gill of Chablis half a pint of n n h Espagnol e sauce and dish o spi ach . Glaze t e rabbit and pour sauce

rou nd . — SMALL GALANTINE OF CHI CKEN BALLOTI NES DE VOLAILLES

ne e e o n the e e the e e Lay a bo d fowl , m at sid up , tabl ; divid m at qually and cut into pieces (sufﬁcient wh en forcem eat is on and roll ed to be about in e S e n e e and a n n e . d 2 i . diam t r) aso with p pp r salt spread wi th a galantine n th e e e e t n & c. e e . R i n forc m at, of cours cutti g s rips of to gu , , small r oll up tie e end and tie n e in the e e the a cloth ; ach , o c middl v ry tight . Boil

in o -ﬂ v ur ballotines e e a o ed . en e som g od w ll stock Wh cook d , which will e ee - e an en en tak about thr quart rs of hour , lift out ; wh cold ough to

n and r - ti n n e n e e e set et e . e ha dl , u do, roll up agai , ; th to g quit cold Glaz , n the to e a and n e e t e . spri kl p with chopp d pist chio , just slic through sla wis ' e e Dish on salad or ric socl with aspic j elly . — FILLETS OF CHICKEN I N ASP IC FILLETS DE VOLAILLES EN BELLE VUE

R e e the e e e and in mov br asts of two fowls , b at out with a cutl t bat, lay u e e an e e -ﬂa v o ured en e a b tt r d sauté p , with som w ll chick stock . Cov r with

e e e and en in the en . en e en e butt r d pap r cook g tly ov Wh quit t d r , lift out ,

h —- n ut n te t e a . e and . C e pr ss , put to cool with a rou d cut r siz of half crow e e e e e n o f e and Mask ov r with Bécham l sauc , d corat with a rou d trufﬂ , round that a ring of tongu e and a ring of steam ed yolk of egg outside the and et in n t n e . e s e to gu Brush ov r with aspic, small rou d moulds wi h v ry e cl ear aspic j lly . — CURR IED FOWL KAR I DE VOLAILLE

in Cut a fowl i nto eight nice pieces . Place a stewpan with a pat

e and en . S e n n of butt r fry to a light gold colour aso , add a carrot , a tur ip , the n n an n n U e e and e e . o a d o io cut p, som parsl y , two bay l av s Put lid n Add e n Of e and o ne sw eat for t en mi utes . a tabl spoo ful curry powd r S e en t he and ee n . t of ﬂour ; stir , add thr pi ts of stock imm r g ly till fowl en e en n and m the o and the en is t d r ; th lift out, strai , ski liqu r , put chick n in h n e n back i n it to be kept hot u til required . Dish t e ce tr with plai

ne be n e . rice round . Chut y should ha d d with it

R ICE FOR CUR R Y

Wash the rice w ell two or three tim es in cl ean cold water ; th en put

i nto a stewpan with pl en ty of boiling water and a teaspoonful of salt . S t o ee the n e te and en o e n e tir k p grai s para d , , wh almost co k d , strai w ll , n a d place in the ov en o n a si ev e to dry .

FI LETS DE VOLAI LLES A LA BOULANGER E

Th ese are ﬁll ets of chicken sauted and masked ov er with chicken

ene e in een e e n e e e . a e a. qu ll , which has b mix d som ﬁ ly chopp d trufﬂ H v

1 24 MENU D ISH ES — FR I CASS EE OF FOWL FR ICASS EE DE VOLAILLE

en n ne n and e A ut e . dd C a chick i to small at joi ts , cov r with cold wat r n h and Ad n e t e e . d n a littl salt, bri g to boil , car fully skim o io , carrot , e and tt e e n e and n the t are e thym , a li l grat d utm g , boil u til par s quit he and e nt e Add S n t e . en e . e t d r trai liquor, mak i o a cr am sauc som nd f he in n a e e . t e and butto mushrooms slic d tru ﬂ s Dish fowl a h ap , pour n f w r e e e c oﬁ n th e sauce all ov r . Gar ish with a fri d to s of bread or glazed n to gu e.

' ‘ — BLANQUE I TE OF FOWL AND MUSH R OOMS BLANQUETTE DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMP IGNONS

Cut e n e e e n up a boil d fowl i to small pi c s, to which add som small butto

. e e e s n e e and and e mushrooms Mix all tog th r, s a o with p pp r salt a littl

— w 1 4 B1an ette o f Fo co d Fig . 3 qu l ( l )

n e and e e en e e. e utm g, add som rath r thick chick cr am sauc Fill a bord r - th e e and e e e e. n on e and mould with som boil d w ll dr ss d ric Tur to dish , pil e the preparation of chick en to the Shape of a dom e. Pour som e cream

n h n n e f ew e e e . e t e e a d sauc rou d bas , spri kl a slic s of trufﬂ s ov r it This is n n o nn a useful e trée wh ere chick e is l eft over from a previ us di er.

S OF C R S - S A QUENELLE CHI KEN , F ANCAI E QUENELLE DE VOLAILLE LA FR ANCAIS E

l th h n r e e . e t e e n Boil a g of fowl Mak r st i to a light que elle fa ce. n e the le e ﬁn and ff e e i e e. en Mi c g v ry , mix with a littl sti wh t sauc Wh n the ene e in the n e the e i n the mouldi g qu ll spoo , put a littl of mixtur E EES OF O AME ETC 1 25 R R . NT P ULT Y, G ,

nd n in th in e en e a e n . e middl , fi ish ordi ary way Poach th m som chick on e t e e m . e e stock Dish a bord r of farc or po ato . Cov r with a whit cr a e and n e te n e ne e n e ffle and sauc , spri kl al r at ly with fi ly chopp d to gu , tru s , pistachios .

C L S LUCULLUS ~ UE NE LLE S A C L S CHI KEN QUENE LE , Q DE VOLAILLE LA LU U LU

truﬂi e ne and e en e. Chop a ﬁ ly, mix with a littl chick glaz Put a in e ne in e n e e. e e e and each portio of this ach qu ll D corat th m , p som

n t . o n e e e chick e s ock Dish a bord r of farce or potato . Cov r with a cr am e e a de e de e sauce ﬂavour d with som p te foie gras . Put a fri d crousta of br ad in the en e e e e o n h e o f e c tr , with a silv r sk w r whic plac a go d black tru ﬂ .

C R C R — A LA C R CHI KEN B EAD, VI TO IA PAIN DE VOLAILLE VI TO IA

Add Pound well a partly boil ed fowl . half as much bread crumbs as

he te ee e and e n e t e . S e e fowl , whi s of thr ggs , a littl cr am aso with p pp r,

l n e n nn in - a d n e e. e e e sa t, utm g ; also a pi ch of cay Put a w ll butt r d mould m - ﬁ n t een e e . S e v e e n o e which has b d corat d t a for forty mi ut s , accordi g siz n of mould (which should be a ﬂuted o e for pre ference) . Pour a white e e e cr am sauc all ov r .

C Z P R R M S C — EP R A LA REM CHI KEN E HY , C EA AU E Z HY DE VOLAILLE C E

e on the e the e n e e the en This pr parati is sam as for goi g , xc pt that chick be n e and the e be e e e n should u cook d , cr am must whipp d just b for mixi g and steami ng ; and care should be tak en that it is cook ed just in tim e to

e e it e in n en . e e entrees can be s rv , as is v ry light its co sist cy Th s also

e e e n & c . n e . s rv d as p tits pai s, , by usi g small timbal moulds — PA RI S IAN TIMBALE TI MBALE A LA PA R I SIENNE

Tak e a Charlotte mould or small timbale m o ulds w ell buttered a nd en e and th e e e . ne e e d corat d Li th m with som light chick farc , fill cavity ra ofit en n e o ffle and small n with a g of chick , to gu , mushr oms, tru s, a qua tity n t e e e and e e e . e e of thick whit sauc Cov r with a o h r lay r of farc , st am lik a n rn on the and let n n e e e e n puddi g. Tu to dish , it sta d a mi ut b for r movi g e e e o e e n I n e . f the mould . Pour a thi cr am sauc all ov r just b f r s rvi g small n be e . are e the en & c . moulds us d , chick , , should cut i to small dic — VICTOR IA SAUS AGES CR EPI NETTE S A LA VICTO R IA

the e e Ad R emov e all ski n and gristl e from fl sh of a boil d fowl . d some n the e e n e e n e and e fat ham or bac o to m at ; s aso with p pp r , salt , utm g, a littl all t e e the n n ne sw eet herbs . Chop it og th r, or put through mi ci g machi to ’ S i n e . e make it i nto sausage m eat oak a pig s caul cold wat r. Th n roll in the e fla t l n h e e . S au portions of t e mixtur caul to mak , ob o g sausag s te and on e Of e . e these in clarified butt r, dish a bord r potato Lay a slic of

fﬂe o n e and i e n . tru ach , pour a r ch tomato sauc rou d 1 2 6 MENU D I SHES — CHI CKEN FR ITTE Rs POULETS EN FR ITUR E

The ﬂ esh Of a cold roast or boiled fowl should be cut into rather small La e in n e n e n n e e . e e and pi c s y th m a mari ad of vi gar, oil , o io , thym , parsl y, e pepp er and salt for two or thr e hours . Dip each pi ece in a light fri tter

t e and in ee . o n n n n e e ba t r, fry d p fat Dish a apki , gar ish with fri d parsl y , in o n and serve piquante sauce a b at . This e trée is useful where fowl has nne been l eft ov er fro m a previous di r .

C R C SS — A R CHI KEN PANADA, P IN E PAIN DE VOLAILLE LA P IN CESS E

Pou nd the ﬂ esh of a partly cook ed fowl to a complete pulp ; add half th e n e e b ee e e l qua tity of fr sh br ad crum s , thr or four whit s of ggs , a gil of

n n in - e and the ne e e s . e te e and e cr am , c ssary s a o i g Put a w ll but r d flour d e o and e ee- e an be e flut d m uld , st am for thr quart rs of hour so as to cook d e just in tim e to serv e . Pour ov r it a cream sauce mad e from th e bones of e n e e e n in th e en . e e n the en e and chick Put som fi ly shr dd d Fr ch b a s c tr , a ’ e n e o n he I n m n n wn t e . f e thi scollops of glaz d to gu r u d bas aki g e trees of this d escription it is advisabl e to coo k a littl e of the preparation to tes t its n I t be e and e e e . e e n ee corr ct ss should v ry light, though firm , th r for may d n e en S e in n e e . e mor gg to bi d , or cr am to soft it t am som a ti y mould

to try it . PETITES TIMB ALES A LA ROYALE

n en the small n e and e e e e Or am t moulds with to gu st am d whit of gg. ne e e ene e e t the e Li th m with som light qu ll m a , ﬁll cavity with a mixtur en n e and fﬂ e n e and of chick , to gu , mushrooms, tru s cut i to small dic , mix E n in e e e e e . e e e ene e e som r duc d spag ol sauc Cov r with a littl mor qu ll m at,

and e en o r n e . n e on to the st am for tw ty thirty mi ut s Tur th m dish , but do n ot remov e the mould for a mi nute . Pour som e white chicken cream sauce round . — SMALL CHIC KEN SOUFFLES PETITS SOUFF LES DE VOLAILLE

n the e o e and e Pou d fl sh of a partly co k d fowl , rub it through a wir Add ee o n fine e e and S e e . i v two or thr spo fuls of fr sh br ad crumbs , stir all i n n the e one e and n together a basi with whit of gg a spoo ful of cream . d n h S e n e e an e . t e e ee aso with p pp r , salt, utm g Whip whit s of thr or four e e to f e in the e mor ggs a stif froth , mix car fully but thoroughly mixtur , - fill e e e rama uin and half som e Oil d or butt r d q cases . Bak e for fifteen or en m n e in e e ev en be e in e tw ty i ut s a mod rat , so as to cook d just tim for

n o n n n . servi g. Dish a apki

G MP ER — MP G S A ER PI EON CO OTE, FINANCI E CO OTE DE PI EON LA FINANCI E

ne the e n e e - ﬂav oured e e in e l Bo pig o s , put som w ll sausag m at th m , rol

d e n ne e e . Let e e in an . e th m a cloth , boil lik a gala ti K p th m small th m ut e in e en en e et . C g thoroughly cold th m halv s l gthways , th ach half n t ar to n the e es e e e ece e e . diago ally , so hat th r four pi s ach pig o Lay pi c in a an n n o n a s uté p or stewpa with a littl e stock to mak e hot agai . Dish ’ e P ut ra o ﬁt o f n e and f e a bord r. a g cocks combs, mushrooms, to gu , tru ﬂ s

128 MENU DI SHES

G S MP R — O S G S A MP R PI EON CUTLET , PO ADOU C TELETTE DE PI EON LA PO ADOU

the e n o e and e e e e n e Trim cutl ts i t shap , cov r ach with som G rma sauc s in which mix som e chopped mu hrooms . Dip them in egg and bread in n P u n an e . o e t o f crumbs d fry d e p fat Dish a bord r . a gar ish dressed een e i n the e n e and o o n S e e e the gr p as c tr , p ur r u d oubis sauc ﬂavour d with n pigeon bo es .

G S C S— O S G S A LA C S PI EON CUTLET , LU ULLU C TELETTE DE PI EON LU ULLU

' f ewe and e in e a Mix a br ad crumbs a yolk or two of gg som p te de foie h n e i n e an . e t e eo e d e gras Cov r pig cutl ts with this mixtur , dip gg br ad an d in ee n h . o e . n t e en e t crumbs , fry d p fat Dish a bord r Gar ish c tr wi h f e e ene e and f e and e stuf d oliv s , mushrooms, qu ll s, tru ﬂ s, pour a Périgu ux h n n n h sauce made from t e pigeo bo es rou d t e base .

G S R — S G S A R PI EON FILLET , VA ENNE FILET DE PI EON LA VA ENNE

n h e n ne Cook a d press t e pig o ﬁll ets . Make a dom e of qu e ll e forcem eat

te e and n e e e e e . o n each . Brush with whi of gg spri kl chopp d trufﬂ s ov r ach

n t . w t e an Lay in a sauté pa wi h som e stock Cover ith bu t red paper d cook i n the en e and in the en . on e e e ov Dish a bord r, put a puré of p as c tr , a rich n I talian sauce rou d .

— PI GEON TUR B AN TUR B AN DE PI GEON S

ne the e n e and d n th e eas Bo pig o s , lay th m out ﬂat cut right ow br t, put e e e in e and e the e and a roll of forc m at or foi gras ach , roll ach half to siz

— Fig 1 35 P igeo n Farci

n i i n n en ti h a c o ss the l e gth of a sausage. T e a cloth a d th e tig tly r he en t n nd et e . o t e e t e . a Cut e c r Cook g th m cold th m acr ss c r , which e e e e e n e r e e and will mak four pi c s of ach pig o . Mak e a circl of fo c m at

th e e e o f e n n nd o n n - e lay pi c s pig o o e all r u d . With a forci g bag pip e e een the e e e n and e te a n n farc b tw pi c s of pig o , d cora turb fashio with E REES OF O R A E ETC. 1 29 NT P ULT Y, G M ,

Put e e e n e n e truﬂfles and . e chopp d to gu , , pistachios som butt r d pap r rou d and e i n fe en n e and e can be e st am or bak e t to ﬁ ish . Dif r t gar ish s sauc s us d n n accordi g to fa cy. — FILLETS or GUINEA FOWL FILETS DE PINTADE A LA LOR R AINE

n d the e ne . en e an Brais two you g gui a fowls Wh cook d cold , cut from e e e e e e e and m br asts tw lv good ﬁll ts, spr ad ov r a puré of ham , ask with n t e e e C e . en se e brow haudfroid sauc Wh , brush ov r s v ral tim s with cold

e e . e e e e te e o n an s c m lt d aspic D corat with st am d whi of gg, dish a pi nd n e a een e e nn e. bord r, gar ish with gr p as mix d with mayo ais

FILLETS or GR OUSE A LA BOHEMIENNE

the e n e en e the Lift br asts from two you g grous , ﬂatt out a littl with ’ e and in e an e e et e and e cutl t bat, lay a saut p with a brais of v g abl s a littl

. o w e e e stock C v er ith butt r d pap r and cook gently in the oven till quite

th n - en e . e e n t d r With trimmi gs of m at l eft mak e a w ell seaso ed farce. ﬁne e m th e Pass through a wire si ev . Tri e ﬁll ets (each side should mak

and e e e and n - en e e e two) pip ov r with a star tub forci g bag ; th pr par farc . e in h n in h S t t e ov e for ten minutes . Dish t e shape of a crown o n a potato e n e n n e bord r, put a gar ish of foi gras (cut i to small rou ds with half a ch rry

on e e in en e n e - e ned n stuck with a littl farc ) c tr , pour rou d a w ll s aso brow

e e e and e e. sauc ﬂavour d with grous , s rv — LAR K PUDDIN G BOUDIN DE MAUVIETTES

n 1 ee e h e ﬁne Li e a pudding basin with su et crust (1: lb . b f su t c opp d to

t ff . 1 . and e en e e e e lb ﬂour a littl salt, th mix d with wat r rath r s i ) Hav

d e en 24, ne and e 1 . e in e an r ady lb rump st ak , cut slic s b at out, larks bo d t f e 1 8 e e e e in en e e . s uf d , oyst rs b ard d Put a lay r of st ak first , th a lay r of e one and o n e n n e e and and oyst rs, of larks , so till full , s aso i g with p pp r salt e t e e tie a littl flour . Pour in som e go od s ock ; cov r with su t crust ; a pud n h n e n ee e and in e . e di g cloth tig tly ov r, put boili g wat r K p boili g for thr n n n hours . Dish o n a fold ed napkin with a other rou d basi . a n e . e e d The stuffing for larks is mad e as follows . Tak 5 lb v al cutl t

Alb. sausage ; pound togeth er in a mortar ; pass through a sie ve . Mix with e e ﬂe n e and e e e e a littl chopp d truf , to gu , ham , parsl y (if availabl , a littl foi

w nd e . e e e en f e e a gras is a gr at improv m t) , a br ad crumbs, two ggs Forc n h d i to t e larks with a piping bag an a large tube .

MAUVI EmE s A LA COMTESSE ROSET’I‘I

’ e e and e n n n e Pr par dish sam as turba , usi g a gar ish of cocks combs dipp d in and n E n e e n the e e e e e . batt r fri d gold Pour spag ol sauc rou d , with r duc d q o li uor fr m the bones of the larks added .

CR EPI NETTES A LA CHASS EUR

in This is a sausage m eat to be mad e from som e ki nd of gam e. Mix it some dice of fat bacon that has been partly boil ed ; also mushrooms and

VOL. II . 7 7 1 30 MENU DISHES

’ S e n o e en r l truffl es and a littl e sherry . aso t tast ; th o l portions in a pig s e S aute e in ] n n e . e e can a d e . S e e , shap i to flat oval pi c s th m clarifi d butt r rv t fe e and truflles in the en e wi h a ragout of stuf d Oliv s , mushrooms , put c tr , a nd E n e e e the e o ne e n a rich spag ol sauc flavour d with gam b s pour d rou d . — LAR KS IN SMALL CASES MAUVIETTES EN PETITES CAI SS ES

ne the one e e. S f eme e Bo larks , for ach cas tuf with forc at mad from ’ a de R e e e e e e . e liv r, or with v al ﬂavour d with som p t foi gras oll ach lark i i i nto shape and put in buttered paper . Lay them n a t n and bak e for ten il an h n e e e the e e. O d t e e e mi ut s , or brais th m for sam tim dry pap r cas s ; put in e and ﬁll in n e he ne & e t t c. a lark ach with a good brow sauc mad wi h bo s , n on the e and e in the Put a butto mushroom top of ach , mak hot through o v en. R S G F R— S A G F R LA K , MONT OL IE MAUVIETTE LA MONT OL IE

h nd n ne t e . e e a e . R in Bo larks Farc th m mak i to a small ball oll paper. and t Let e t te and o r e . e l e a cloth cook h m th m g qui cold , put a ay r of ’ R in e e n n n e . ee t e salpico all rou d th m oll a pi c of pig s caul , k pi g h m as E nd e an d in n e. a e ee . rou d as possibl gg br adcrumb th m , fry d p fat Dish n n G n e e and o n . w e e e in a apki ar ish ith fri d parsl y, s rv tomato sauc a

boat . — LAR K TUR B AN TURBAN DE MAUVIETTES

n an f h C e and et em e d t e . e e Bo stuf larks ook th m g th cold . Hav som en e e e e and r ee n e n The n and qu ll forc m at p oc d as for turba of pig o s . gar ish

sauce can be varied according to circumstances .

’ " — ’ ‘ CASES OF LAR K s FILLETS AND FINE HER B S FILETS DE MAUVI E I TE S EN CAISS ES AUX FINES HE RBES

’ e the and set e o ff in e an Add e e Fill t larks , th m a saut p . som slic d E d n n e n e e o e o e an t e . trufﬂ , spag ol sauc , ch pp d mushro m , parsl y , a li tl o io n h r n the e Braise all togeth er u til t e ﬁll ets a e thoroughly te der . Fill pap r c e an n tin be e e d e . e o as s , which must pr viously oil d dri d Lay th m a , n h n a d make hot through in t e ov e .

— ' ‘ FILLETS OF LA R KS ON SILVER SK EWE Rs FILETS DE MAUVI E I TES EN HATE LETTES

h n ee e and Fill et t e larks a d braise them . Put thr ﬁll ts two slices of o n n n e o e n mushr om or foi e gras o a ti y wood e skew r . C v r them rou d with o h e e Let e et . e s m thick sauc mad e to set . t m g thoroughly cold Shape th m n n e in e a d e and in ee f at . e rou d lik a cork , dip gg crumbs twic , fry d p Tak the en e e and e n out wood sk w r r place it with a small silver o ne. Dish o a n n and n e e apki , gar ish with fri d parsl y .

UAI Ls S R — S A S R Q , Y IENNE CAILLE LA Y IENNE

A e n ne ffe and e the in e and ft r havi g bo d , stu d , cook d quail , cut halv s e n e and coat ov r with a brow gam e farce. Decorate with st am ed yolk e e and set Off in th n n e n whit of gg e ov e . Dish o a potato bord r rou d a

1 32 MENU DISHES

— COMP OTE OF QUAILS AND FAROED OLIVES COMPOTE DE CAI LLEs AUX OLIVES FA R CIES

n e and th let e e e et . e in Bo , farc , cook quails ; th m g cold Cut th m

halv es and make hot in a good Espagnol e sauce . Dish on a border e n h S ne and with a crout of fried bread betwee t e halv es . to stuff the - v r in h olives with a w ell ﬂa ou ed quenell e forcem eat . Put th em t e sauce h ﬂ in a nd n e t e av our . e in boil a mi ut or two, which will add to g Put th m he n e the en e t ce tr of tré .

— TUR BAN OF QUAILS CAILLES EN TUR B AN

ee in the e n and e n use the Proc d sam way as for turba of larks pig o s, but n ff nd e e e a e . halv s of a quail , bo d , stu d , cook d

S ER G R — O S S A ER G R QUAIL CUTLET , P I O D C TELETTE DE CAILLE LA P I O D

ne th e e ﬂat and in wh e n t e Bo quails, lay th m out , cut halv s right do ’ e in an in n breast . Lay th m a saute p a littl e stock a d coo k u ntil nearly

n e e e een e n . e do e. Pr ss th m b tw two dish s u til cold Mak a dom e of quenelle

o n e e e an d n e e e e . e n ach , gg th m , spri kl w ll with chopp d trufﬂ Lay th m agai

" in the e e e e and n in the o n n e . o stock , cov r with butt r d pap r , ﬁ ish v Dish e r e croﬁte e een th e e e e e i n a bord r, with a f i d b tw halv s , a d corat d croustad

the en e and e e e n . c tr , a rich P rigord sauc pour d rou d

S VI LLE R OI — OT ES S A VI LLE R OI QUAIL CUTLET , C ELETT DE CAILLE LA

n in e e the e e . e e e e n Pr par cutl ts as abov Wh cold , dip th m som G rma d n e e set e an e e e. S e e sauc , mad to with yolks of ggs a littl g lati hap th m ,

and egg and crumb th em twice ; fry i n d eep fat . Put some dressed green e ne Of e e e in the en e the entree p as, asparagus , or a macédoi v g tabl s c tr of en e and e e e the ne and e wh dish d , pour a whit sauc , ﬂavour d with bo s a littl

e n . sh rry, rou d

U S FI NANOI ERE — O S S A C ER Q AIL CUTLET , C TELETTE DE CAILLE LA FINAN I E

h Vill r i o n e e e t e e a e o . Pr par cutl ts as for la Dish a bord r, put a financiere ra ofit in the en e and E n e e e g c tr , pour a rich spag ol sauc flavour d n Th ne be e e e with sherry rou d . e bo s should always us d to flavour th s

Sauces .

R C S R SC — S FAROI ES A R SC FA ED QUAIL , OTH HILD CAILLE LA OTH HILD

ne and ff the ene e in e e r e Bo , stu quail with qu ll , which put som rath r la g nd et e e e o f an f w fﬂe . e a e d e e e pi c s foi gras a pi c s of tru s Cook th m , g th m in and e in an e e cold ; cut half lay th m a sauté p with a littl stock , mak e h t in h n n n n o t e e a d e e n e . o e th m ov , glaz th m ic ly Dish a bord r with thi croﬁtes o f e e e een the e e n fri d br ad b tw pi c s . Put a gar ish of mushrooms ,

n e ﬂe and ene e in the en e and n e - a to gu , truf , small qu ll s c tr , pour rou d th m E n rich spag ol e sauce. E EES F R A E ET 1 33 R O O C . NT P ULT Y, G M ,

S OF R P — S E R A P FILLET HA E , NEA OLITAN FILET DE LI V E LA NA OLITAINE

The e be t n the a the e and e two fill ts should cut righ dow b ck of har , aft r nn n e be n e e a n the ski i g th y should cut i to six or ight cutl ts , ccordi g to the e an f n e e d O . siz of fill ts. Pat th m out lard with strips fat baco Lay e in n e ne n n e e e e a nd th m a mari ad of oil , vi gar, o io , thym , parsl y , p pp r , salt d n e ee en an o . for thr or four hours ; th braise glaze th em . Dish a bord r Fill the en e n n n e and e c tr with a gwar ish of macaro i , to gu , mushroom , truffl which een e e e n ee e and e ne e n has b dr ss d ith Parm sa ch s s aso d . Mak a brow e o e o e the ne e n sauc flav ur d with s m of bo , flavour furth r with a spoo ful of n e and n nd d n h e e a e an t e . curra t j lly port wi , pour all ov r rou d fill ts — S OF R ST. B R E R A T B R S S . FILLET HA E, HU E T FILET DE LI V E LA HU E T

e e th e e o n e n e Pr par ﬁll ts as abov e. Dish a bord r with thi crout s of th e e h n n e een t e e e e e e . fri ed bread b tw pi ec s . Fill c tr with som dr ss d spi ach n e h ne and n e e t e e . Mak a brow sauc with som of har bo s , pour rou d

R S R F RM— O S E R A R EF R M HA E CUTLET , E O C TELETTE DE LI V E LA O E

The e be and n and e e . S e e ﬁll ts should small b at out ﬂat auté th m , pr ss

n e een e . e n e u til cold b tw two dish s Mak a rich brow sauc , ﬂavour with e the ne and o Of e and e ne e som of bo s , add a y lk or two gg g lati to mak it s t n the e n e an d e in e e e e . Tur cutl ts i to shap dip ach this sauc b for it t e e et n in d n e . s e e e an a d g s cold Lay th m asid to , th dip twic gg crumb,

in ee . o n e and e e one fry d p fat Dish a bord r, put a small pi c of a rib b in e e e . n I n th (pr viously cook d) ach Gar ish with a cutl et frill . e centre n n e e n truﬂi e and e e e e put a gar ish of to gu , gh rki , , st am d whit of gg, all n nn f w o e e e e e e e A e e e s can cut i t shr ds lik Juli v g tabl s . shr dd d mushroom Th e he ne and be e . e e t e add d sauc is mad from bo s , ﬂavour d with a small n n n n f w e e a d e n ne . spoo ful of curra t j lly , port wi , a drops of tarrago vi gar

Pour round th e base .

— TU RB AN OF HA RE AND MUS H ROOMS TU R BAN DE LIEV R E AUX CHAMPIGNONS

n e e the le t n n Mak e a light qu e ell farc with g por io of a hare. Fill a n an d e e ordinary plain bord er mould with this preparatio st am it . Pr pare the e e a nd en e to n the e o n ﬁll ts as abov , wh it is tim dish , tur out bord r to the en e d a nd the e n e e n the tré ish , lay ﬁll ts, ic ly glaz d , all rou d top of n th n e e t n and e . e e this bord r Gar ish tré with fr sh but o mushrooms , pour

- a w ell ﬂa v oured brown sauce all ov er.

‘ ’ P ETITs PAIN S DE LIEV R E A L ESS ENCE

en e the e e e b ne and e Partly cook ough har for purpos ; r mov all o gristl , d e n to e e an e e. Add pou d it a compl t pulp , pass through a wir si v the e n e e n n and en e s half sam qua tity of br ad crumbs , s aso i g , suffici t gg to e e e te e n mak e it all set firmly but d licat ly . D cora som ti y moulds with e and e e e e e and truffl s st am d whit s of ggs , dust th m with flour fill with MENU DI SHES

n I f e e e l e an b the preparatio . a littl dilut d gam g az c e add ed to the mix e t e en S e t e be ture it will mak e a gr a improv m t . t am h m so as to cook ed n n o th and in e e e . o t e n e just tim to s rv Tur dish , pour a rich brow gam o ne n sauce ﬂavoured with p rt wi or champag e all over .

— SMALL CASES OF GAME PETITES C ROUSTADES DE GIB IER

ne o e e n e in a Li s m small timbal moulds with a thi short past , which put n . e w n a o r e e d yolk two of gg Fill th m ith dry br ad crumbs , ﬂour, or bra , n n m e e . e e e and e e bak th m Tur th m out, cl a th , brush ov r with yolk of gg,

an d e n . e e e e an e e bak agai Fill th s with a puré of har or y oth r gam , highly s n and e e o e ff sea o ed mad as rich as possibl . Put a patty t p (mad of pu d n n r l e o n e a n o n . n e a s e . e e past ) ach , dish a apki Gar ish with fri d p y Th s e can be e e n t e and e and cas s ﬁll d with a vari ty of ordi ary pa ty m ats puré s , n nam ed accordi gly .

— SALMI s OF PA RTR IDGE AND TR UFFLEs SALMIS DE PE RDR EAUX AUX TR UFFES

- o e and let et Cu t it n ne o n and Half r ast a partridg it g cold . i to at j i ts e e an d the n s e e and no t n pi c s , with trimmi g pr par a rich too thick brow

' th e e d in n e n e . e e a d sauc Put pi c s of partri g this , slowly simm r u til A d n n an in e . d e a d e on to e d sufﬁ thoroughly cook d sh rry s as i g tast , put n f i th e and n e e e . n o n e e ci t slic d tru ﬂ s Dish a m u d , pour sauc all ov r, gar ish

- with som e fri ed fancy shap ed c roﬁtes of bread or bak ed short paste . S e nt an e e e e in th e e almis of ph asa , wild duck , or y oth r gam is pr par d sam

way . — CHAR T REUS E OF PAR TR IDGE AND CAB B A GE PE R DR EAUX ET CHOUX EN CHAR TR EUS E

h in h n in e n t Truss t e partridges t e ordi ary way . Put a st wpa wi h a

el - e e e e e o n e e w l wash d h art of a savoy cabbag , a carrot , a pi c of bac , p pp r, ﬁ n in and an d e . e t salt , suf ci t stock to cook all Cov r tigh ly , thoroughly h o t n the e n t e are en e . e e et brais u til birds t d r Tak th m out to g c ld , s rai

th e e & c . and ee o . e e liquor away from cabbag , , proc d as f llows D corat a

r en ne la ge plain mould with cook ed v egetabl es of different colours . Th li h n f en e e t e e e e e e O e . mould with a light, ﬁrm qu ll m at mad v al Th plac ov r this a layer of cabbage that has been thoroughly chopped and go t as dry as he th e n ne e e e. Cut t e e possibl up b st parts of partridg s i to at pi c s, as ee n dd he n and e e e . A t fr from bo as possibl baco , also cut , a littl thick n e the e e e brow sauc . Fill mould up with this mixtur , cov r with a littl o e e and e e n an o r n e n m r farc , st am lik a puddi g for hour lo g r accordi g to

e. n o n the do no t em e the n e siz Tur to dish , but r ov mould for a mi ut or n two. Pour a ice gam e sauce all ov er .

S OF C G R — S R S S G S FILLET WILD DU K , BI A ADE FILET DE CANA D AUVA E A LA BIGAR ADE

e th e i and out e e n e n Fill t w ld duck , ach ﬁll t accordi g to siz i to two or

ee e e . e in n e ne e e thr pi c s Lay th m a mari ad of oil , vi gar , thym , parsl y,

1 36s MENU DI SHES

— ’ NOISETTES OF LAMB WITH ASPAR AGUS POINTS NOISETTES D AC NEAU AUX ’ POINTES D ASPE RC Es

. R emov e (by passing the k nife along the backbone) the m eat from a n o n e and n e in e loi of lamb . Lay ﬂat a tabl cut i to slic s 35 . thick ; trim th m , n E ti and e the ea in ent e . e e t n curl th m rou d , m t part c r ith r wi h a stri g , or pass a thin sk ewer through to keep th em in shape . Lightly set off in a ’ t an e ﬁre an d in th en to e n e e e en e . sau p ov r a sharp , put ov brais u til quit t d r I n the e n e n e en ne the n m a tim cook a bu dl of asparagus ; wh do , cut tops i to

One - n en ; o t the n e e the e s e i ch l gths Lift u ois tt s , lightly pass glaz bru h ov r e e o ff the n e e and o n o e the th m , tak stri g or sk w r, dish a potat bord r . Put in n and n h h n e e t e e e t e e . asparagus poi ts c tr , pour rou d sauc mad from brais

S C R — O S A C R MUTTON CUTLET , VI TO IA C TELETTE DE MOUTON LA VI TO IA

The e be e and en e e . en cutl ts must partly cook d , th pr ss d Wh cold , e on e n e an d e e a e spr ad a salpic of mushrooms , trufﬂ , to gu , a littl whit s uc in nd m o n e e the e . e a e e e ach sid of cutl t Dip gg br ad crumbs, shap th n e and in ee an n on ic ly , fry a d p p of hot fat to a light brow . Dish a ’

o e m e t e . o e s b rd r of ash d pota o s Put a rag ut of mushrooms , trufﬂ s , cock in h n n and ene e t e e e a d E n e e n . combs , qu ll s c tr , pour a rich spag ol sauc rou d

’ S A R — S A L ALEXAND R A MUTTON CUTLET , LEXAND A COTELETTE

h e n the e w n e a t e e L rd l a part of cutl t ith strips of fat baco , brais th m n d n nd in a e e e . e e a e a rich gravy , glaz th m ic ly Th s similar cutl ts should be dished upside down on a bord er of mas hed potato ; so the bone should P ut n e e e n e e e i n be out v ery short . a ic ly dr ss d macédoi of fr sh veg tabl es

h n nd e - ﬂ v r d n t e e e a a ou e S e e . c tr , pour a w ll oubis sauc rou d

S CHEVR EUI LLE— O S A CHEVR EUl LLE MUTTON CUTLET , C TELETTE LA

the outlets e e and em in n e Oil Lard w ll as abov , lay th a mari ad of , ne n n e e e e and ee e en vi gar , O io , thym , parsl y, p pp r, salt for thr hours , or v

e e in n and e e n e . four. Brais th m a good stro g gravy , glaz th m ic ly Dish on the en e n tt n n n a border of potato. Fill c tr with a gar ish of bu o o io s Th n e e t f e and ene e . e e ( ic ly brais d) , mushrooms, ru ﬂ s , small qu ll s sauc is

e ed n th e and e n n in o e mad by r uci g liquor r movi g all fat , mixi g s m E n e e and ﬂav ourin ne and n red spag ol sauc , g with port wi a spoo ful of n e curra t j lly .

S MP R — O S A MP R MUTTON CUTLET , PO ADOU C TELETTE LA PO ADOU

Lard some thick mutton cutlets with two or three pieces of fat bacon th n h d e . n t e e e e. e e a e through y Brais th m pr ss Wh cold , trim to usual e and e e oo d S e e has e siz , cov r th m with a g oubis sauc that had yolk of gg m e e set . en in e and e e add d to mak it Wh cold , dip gg crumbs , shap th n d i e an n ee . on e . n ic ly, fry d p hot fat Dish a bord r of potato Gar ish e e e in h n n with dr ss d p as t e ce tre a d G erman sauce round . MEAT ENTREES 1 37

T N S DESCARTES ~ CCFE LETTE S A SC R S MUT O CUTLET , LA DE A TE

an h h e Partly cook d press t e cutl ets . Cut a small piece out of t e y e with a round cutter ; ﬁll this up with a little salpicon ; dip in egg and e e and i f a n n ee t . e br ad crumbs , shap , fry d p Gar ish with ragout mad with th t e e e een and e e n . y hat has b cut out , mushrooms, brais d ch st uts Pour n the o e E n e e e e rou d wh l a rich spag ol sauc ﬂavour d with sh rry .

’ S E UC ENIE — O S A L EUC ENI E MUTTON CUTLET , C TELETTE

Th and e e s be e en e e . e cutl ts must ﬁr t partly cook d , th pr ss d Trim th m e ene e e e one e a nd e e e e spr ad a light qu ll farc ov r sid , d corat th m with cook d

i - e 1 36. M tto n C t ts F g. u u l

n v egetabl es . Lay th em out in a sauté pan with a littl e stro g gravy ; cover

t e e e and n the en n s n . e o n wi h butt r d pap r, put i to ov to ﬁ i h cooki g Dish th m e the en e e e s and e e a bord r of potato , ﬁll c tr with a puré of p a , pour som d mi e n a b e in the en t e e e t n . glaz rou d . L mb cutl ts may dr ss d all forms giv for mu o

’ S OF MB — O S D AGNE AU A LA M CUTLET LA , MAINTENON C TELETTE AINTENON

e the e end n e ne and n e Tak b st of a ck of lamb , chi it, cut i to cutl ts (two

ne e e the o ne the n n e -ten bo s to ach) . Tak b s out with poi t of a k if , ﬂat with th e the e to the ne and e e and . e cutl t bat, trim N xt split m at bo , spr ad a nd e o e n e en e e and . e a lay r of mushro m puré i sid ; fast tog th r, grill Glaz dish ’ on o d Ux elles e e a nd e e e . e a bord r of potato Pour s m sauc ov r , s rv with a

garnish of button mushrooms . — GR ENADIN OF VEAL WITH VEGETAB LES G R ENAD INS DE VEAU A LA JAR DINIER E

h l s Lard som e thick cutl ets cut from t e eg With strip of fat bacon . d e o n e e in e e an e . Braiz th m som Whit stock , glaz th m lightly Dish a V OL. I I . 7 8 1 38 MENU DI SHES

de . ne e e e e in the en e and bor r of potato Put a macédoi of fr sh v g tabl s c tr , e e n s o m e rich bécham l sauc rou d .

VEAL KER NELS

e e e erne and in e an hen Tak ight v al k ls lay cold wat r for hour , t boil

n ld wa I w cO n ee n e te a d n e and t t se o . for thr mi ut s Thro i to drai ; pr ss, cool C ut and l e in s e n ee an ni n n p ac a t wpa a carrot , a l k , o o , a tur ip , som e f w arsle a S e e e e n and e e p y , prig of thym , a p pp rcor s, a littl ham fat ; cov r, an a nd sw eat f o r ten minutes . Trim d lay the kernels on them ; cover n and n n e n ten n t a n e e . fﬁ en gai , co ti u braisi g for a oth r mi u s Pour su ci t

o o e e and en e e e n and go d st ck to just cov r th m , cook till t d r ; r mov , strai ,

k the back n the e n and e e e - e . s im liquor , put i to st wpa , r duc to a d mi glaz h n in nd n en t e e e a in the e . e Th put k r ls , toss glaz Dish rou d a puré of e e e S n e n t e e e & c. n e v g tabl s , such as pi ach , artichok , gr p as , Gar ish wi h fri d

roﬁtons e and e - c e e . of br ad , pour d mi glaz ov r

TENDON S OF VEAL

e the en n th e e n o e Tak out t do from br ast of v eal . Soak i c ld wat r for a n and s t to ‘ co ok e ne e e t e ee . hour, as for k r ls ; th y will ak about thr hours en ne e and u d t . n e e a n e Wh do , lift out , pr ss, p to cool Cut i to pi c s mak e in the e n d e . e e an th m thoroughly hot r duc d liquor Dish as for k r ls, pour

rm - d e i glaze over .

F O S C S— F O S A C S BEE LIVE , LU ULLU BEE LLA LA LU ULLU

n e 4 n u ee 2 in . e . B eat o t a thi slic of b f steak about in . lo g by % wid S e n e e and and e e n e e aso with p pp r salt , spr ad a v ry thi lay r of sausag

e o e . t e e e and e m at v r Put a hick pi c of foi gras right across , a slic or two f fl R and in e o in o e . e e e . e e truf oll all up , wrap a pi c of oil d pap r C ok th s n o and n in o a e e . e u t st ck for h ur, l av u til cold Trim th m ; p back stock to h n S e e E n e make ot agai . erv with a rich Périgu ux sauce mad e wi th spag ol a nd e f es and e e . chopp d tru fl , flavour d with sh rry

S OF F P — S BCEUF A P FILLET BEE , NEA OLITAN FILET DE LA NA OLITAINE

Lard some small thick ﬁll ets of beef with strips . Of fat bacon ; braise

e and n r o the en e e e on o e o . th m glaz th m ic ly . Dish a b d r of p tat Fill c tre u o n n e o and e e with a rago t of macar i , to gu , mushro ms , trufﬂ s ﬂavour d with e n ee e an d e the e t the o e E n e Parm sa ch s , mak sauc wi h liquor , s m spag ol , a n nd n e e a e . littl rich curra t j lly, port wi

S OF F S R S B R G— S BCEUF A S R SB R G FILLET BEE , T A U FILET DE LA T A OU

’ S e th e e in e e e e and o n e e aut fill ts clarifi d butt r, glaz th m , ach lay a slic f e . o n e o to the en e t e e of foi gras Dish a bord r pota . Fill c tr wi h som v ry ne wan d e e and n n fi ly cut stra fri d potato s , pour a rich brow gravy rou d e t flavour d wi h chopp ed olives .

1 40 MENU DISHES

TOUR NEDOS OF BEEF

These are cut fro m t he ﬁllet of beef in rou nd shapes about the size of

- d 1 in . R ﬁv e n e e an . ub e o n a shilli g pi c thick a clov of garlic a dish , pour and J and e in e e . the t ne in a littl oil , add p pp r salt ust mix , lay our dos for

ee n n e e e e . t e e in he thr hours, tur i g ov r s v ral tim s Put a lit l fr sh oil t sauté

an and e . n and e t e n e e p , fry rath r brisk Drai , dish , pour i h r plai r duc d an e e t n n e e the e e gravy or y sauc lik ly to go wi h it , ami g th m aft r sauc us d , and garnish with potato or v egetabl e as required . — SCALLOP OF BEE F WITH TUR NIP ESCALOPE DE BCEUF A LA NIVE R NAI SE

Cut eight scalloped pi eces from the fill et of beef abo ut three quarters o f e e th e th i an n e e . n & c . i ch thick ; also small pi c s of fat from fill t Lay oil , , h an and o e fire in n a . o ff for alf hour , co k quickly ov r a a sauté p Pour the e e and in E no e e and Of n gr as , put a gill of spag l sauc a gill co sommé .

S m e ten n e . e and on e im r for mi ut s Glaz dish a potato bord r, with a n Of n e e e SC in n gar ish of small balls tur ip (cut with a v g tabl OOP) ce tre . n Pour sauce rou d .

’ SC P OF F AM R C — ESC P B CEUF A L AMER I CAI NE ALLO BEE , E I AN ALO E DE

n Prepare as for Niv ernaise . S easo with tomato sauce and a garnish of and stuff ed tomatoes straw potatoes .

M S— E P cE F F ST. SC B UF A T SC P O S . C ALLO BEE , JA E ALO E DE LA JA QUES

e e e n e . en e e e on Pr par as for Niv r ais Wh cook d , put a lay r of foi gras nd in he en n n t e e a t ee e . e ach , put ov for thr mi ut s Gar ish wi h shr dd d mush o and e e e e e in e ne ﬁv e n ro ms halv s of ch rri s simm r d whit wi for mi utes . d e e an e e. Pour sauc ov r, s rv

S OF F S — S BCEUF A S FILLET BEE , YDNEY FILET DE LA YDNEY

n and n ne Prepare the ﬁll ets as for Napolitai e. Dish gar ish with ﬁ ly cut en e n n e e n e e te e Fr ch b a s . Pour rou d som sauc piqua t , with som gra d hors

- n radish and red curra t j elly added .

S OF F S — S BCEUF A S FILLET BEE , EVILLE FILET DE LA EVILLE

v i A e n n the e e e Prepare as for Ni em a se . ft r drai i g gr as from th m add

a red ne. R e e ten n half a pi n t of brown sauce and gill of wi duc for mi utes . n n the en e th Glaze the ﬁll ets and dish th em l e gthways dow c tr of e dish . A n S the e and e e rra ge an orange salad o n each side of them . kim sauc s rv in a boat . VIENNA STEAK s

e e are u e e the n n ne e Th s r mp st aks pass d through mi ci g machi , with a littl h n e e e e and e . e are e chopp d parsl y , shallot, p pp r, salt add d Th y s ap d rou d ,

e and i n n and e e w n . e a ﬂour d , fri d a sauté p , s rv d ith brow gravy FOU R N OTAB LE BAKE R S

W LL M H . P LMER o n at S ansea in 1 868 starte siness I IA A , b r w , d bu as a a e r in 1 8 and ha s e e his a e t th e m o st b k 94, quipp d b k ry wi h u - t o - a t m w e a ine H a p d ch ry . e s Presid ent of th e S o u th Wal e s ’ Fe e at o n o f a e s Asso c iat ons in 1 0 and h e h as een d r i B k r i 9 7 , b a pp o inted ﬁrst C h airman o f the Brea d and Fl o ur Sale N ote

C a se B o a o f R e e nc l u rd f re e . w J S EP MER R TT as bo rn in 1 87 at Cardiff wh ere he has wO H I 3 , o a c ss u a i n H as n s ce n and c o n e c t o e sin s . w u f l b k g f i ry bu es e

h a n i o me H o n. S ec eta o f t e So t W es Fe e at o n a d n f r rly r ry u h l d r i ,

w h a A 0 P 1 9 6 h e as resident o f t e C rdiff sso c iatio n. w M T LL as o in 1 8 o t m e . n 8 at R e a e BENJA IN BE b r 4 h rh , wh r w H w an n hi o n h is fath e r as in bu siness a s a bake r . e beg o s a c o nt t e e in 1 8 0 but em o e to e ﬁ in 1 88 e e c u h r 7 , r v d Sh f eld 4, wh r

- be e re cted o ne o f th e be st equipped bak eries in Yo rkshire . H e

w m a 0 . Mr e as o e n retired in fa vo ur o f his so n in 1 9 4 . B ll f r rly

ent sia stic c c ete t a eat e tatio n as a o e . hu ri k r , wi h gr r pu b wl r w W M H C R S o n at i m n am in 1 86 1 as e ca te LL . U I IA TI , b r B r i gh , du d a t B risto l a nd a t the age o f ﬁfteen began his apprentic eship in

H e s ccee e to th e s ne ss o n his his fath e r s bakeh o u se . u d d bu i

’ w P e si ent o f the sto 8 H e as ﬁ st fath er s d eath in 1 95 . r r d Bri l

’ ’ n Mi s A sso c at o n and ha s een P es ent Maste r B ake rs a d ll er i i , b r id

H e is a m em e o f the E ec t e o f the S o uth \Val es Fed e ratio n . b r x u iv

- o f t o na Asso ciat o n of c h e has een a ce P esi ent . the N a i l i , whi h b Vi r d

t s h as se e o n a o s c o e s a nd ta es an M r. Cur i rv d v ri u publi b di , k a ctiv e p art in c hurch w o rk .

1 42 MENU D ISHES

’ COTELETTES D AC NEAU A LA MENTHE

’ e e in Cut as many lamb cutlets as requir d . Plac a saute pan wi th a

e e e . n e the ﬁre e n and ut n o littl clariﬁ d butt r Brow quickly ov r , s aso , p i t a stewpan con tain i ng som e good stro ng stock with vegetabl e and to mato e ent t the e a re e en purée added . Simm r g ly ill cutl ts quit t d er ; lift out a nd nd e e e e e e . en a n re pr ss Wh cold , trim brush ov r s v ral tim s with a dr ssi g p o ne e on e e e o n pared as follows . To tabl spo ful of m at glaz add two t asp o fuls n n e n en t of aspic j elly and o e teaspoo ful of chopp d mi t . Wh almos about set e the c e e e o n e ne and o n to , brush ov r utl t , plac a cutl t frill ach bo dish

een e in en e . e o e n e . salad , with gr p as c tr D c rat rou d with aspic j lly

CHAPTER XXXI I

P O LTR M E AT AND GAME P I E S ETC. U Y, , ,

PI GEON P I E

e e n n out th e n the n and e Off Tak two pig o s (draw ), poi ts of Wi gs l gs , en e e e n n i n ee e e the e and e th slic ach pig o dow thr , r mov liv r , tak away the J h back . ust slit t e breast e e n a nd e the pi c dow , tak out bon e ; chop the liv ers v ery ﬁne with a littl e parsley a nd a f ew and e on e mushrooms , spr ad ach f e e o e n ut . pi c pig o . C lb rump steak i nto S lices ; beat them and put a layer in the bottom of the en e e n a nd — i dish , th a lay r of pig o , Fi Mo d f or R aised P i eon P e l 38. g . ul g o n e n n e e so , s aso i g with p pp r

n Add l - e n nd a d salt . a gil of stock ; cut two hard boil ed ggs i to four parts a n e f e and in e te en f o r one lay rou d ; cov r with puf past , cook a mod ra ov

nd - the ie e th s a ee e . e e hour thr quart rs Fill p up with gravy mad from h ad , h n n he ee e e . e a d . S t t bo s, stock tick f t out of top of past

VEAL- AND -HAM P I E

- e le and n e e e . Tak e 1 lb. v al cut t cut i to good siz d pi c s B eat out with e e on e e and and e e e a cutl t bat , s as with p pp r salt , spr ad a lay r of sausag e e ut e n n e n e e a re o f m at ov r it . C v ry thi as ma y slic s of gammo as th r e and e Put t e e in the o the v al , roll th m up . a lit l v al stock bott m of e in n n in ut - e e n a d . C dish , cut ach roll half , sta d two hard boil d ggs i to e d f e e e . S n e e e an e e. ight pi c s pri kl parsl y all ov r, cov r with puf past Bak one and in n en for hour a half a mod erate ov e . Fill up with gravy wh ne do . O R EA AND A E I ES P ULT Y, M T, G M P

RUMP-STEAK PI E

Cut the e n e e e on and e on e st ak i to slic s , b at out, s as , spr ad it a lay r

- - o f e e . R cut and n a an i sausag m at oll up ; ﬁ ish as for v e l d ham p e.

STEAK- AND OYSTE R PI E

m e n e e n C ut 1 . e n A lb ru p st ak i to slic s , b at out thi , put a lay r i to a e n e e and t en e e n dish , s aso with p pp r salt , h add a lay r of oyst rs , havi g ff nd r en h e o a e e th n 2 . t e e e . tak b ards , p at till dish is full , usi g doz oyst rs

e t e no e e e e th e - e and to the M l a gill of spag l sauc ; r duc oyst r liquor, add s o n n auce with a teasp o ful of mushroom k etchup ; the pour over. t ff e a nd e one a nd half wi h pu past bak for hour a .

CHICKEN -AND - HAM P I E

Cut a you ng chicken i nto e e e the e ight pi c s , chop liv rs up t e e and wi h a littl parsl y , ham , S re o e mushroo m . p ad s m of en this o n each pi ece o f chick . P ut a f ewslices of h am in the bottom of the dish wi th a little en t en e chick stock , h a lay r of en e n and o n chick , s aso , so till

— - - m R aised Pie F i 1 39 . Cll icken and Ha Add - e e g . full . two hard boil d ggs , ch o pped u p ; sprinkle over with h e e e f e and e one and ee c opp d parsl y , cov r with puf past , bak for hour thr

t en e e ne . quarters . Fill up wi h chick stock , w ll s aso d

’ SHEP HE RD S P I E

Chop fine any remains of cold m eat ; reduce in a littl e brown sauce n n o n and a nd ne e e t ee e e , stock , with fi ly shr dd d shallo , for fift mi ut s ; s as

- e pouri nto a pie dish . Mash som e e the boil d potato s , add yolk of a n e e n and e e gg to it s aso , ith r e o n i t n e e spr ad W h a k if , or pip with a forci ng - bag and star e in the en tube . Bak ov till o f a nice co lour .

PAR TR IDGE P I E

ee f o r e n ie Proc d as pig o p , 4 R ised Pi Mo 1 0. a e d Fig . ul a dding a littl e po u nd ed m ace

to the seasoni ng . 1 44 MENU DI SHES

VENISON P I E

e Cut the m eat into slices and beat out . Mix tog ther a littl e chopped n n nd th e e e e e e e a . e e parsl y, a v ry littl grat d l mo ri d , p pp r, salt Put m at n n h R e in e in e t e e. e e e no e lay rs a dish , s aso i g with mixtur duc som spag l e ne and red - n e e and o e the en sauc with port wi curra t j lly add d , p ur ov r v i n S e e e e and f e f so . e pr ad ov r it som chopp d mushroom tru ﬂ , cov r with puf n an n e a d e e e e t n e e . past , bak . This r quir s half hour lo g r ha st ak pi s

HA R E P I E

Cut th e e n - e e e o ff the ﬁne ne e d har i to fair siz d pi c s ; chop rib bo s, h a , and n e n the e in th e the a nd ck ; pou d liv r mortar, add blood to it a d n e e e an e e e a d . e littl chopp d parsl y thym , also p pp r salt Put a lay r of in the n e e e o f e n this bottom of a dish ; roll rou d ach pi c har a thi . pi ece of streaky bacon ; th en lay o n the liv er ; spread any liver l eft he ut an n n and n n e in o e t . C a d v r top up a carrot , o io , a tur ip , plac a h e f wn . e n t e e t e e st wpa wi h a pat of butt r ; fry for a mi ut s Chop up h ad , n nd ut the n and n n tes e &c . a o e ee ck , , add to it ; p lid simm r for ﬁft mi u ; o n n and e n e S e m iste with a pi t of stock a gill of spag ol sauce . imm r for an o n and nt e t s e and e half h ur , strai , skim , pour i o a dish ; cov r wi h pa t bak in te n for two hours a modera ov e .

RAB B IT PI E

h n ten e e and in e Cut t e rabbit i to pi c s wash w ell cold wat r. Place in e n - o n e n e e and a dish with slic s of thi cut bac ; s aso with p pp r salt , R e e the e a nd n in e e an d e . chopp d parsl y, thym duc h ads trimmi gs stock ; e n and e in th e e e and e o ne s aso , put a littl dish ; cov r with past bak for t a nd en . hour a half . Th ﬁll up wi h gravy

STEAK - AND - KIDNEY P I E

e e e ie n the n e and n in the Pr par as for st ak p , slici g kid y layi g it with e st ak . JUGGED HA R E

ChO he e n - e e e n e the and p t har i to good siz d pi c s, taki g car of blood e S e n an n o n and ee n e n liv r . lic a carrot, a tur ip , o i , a l k ; put i to a st wpa Add e n and e . e e with som ham trimmi gs a pat of butt r a littl parsl y, S e e e e e e and ee o e . thym , black p pp r , a blad of mac , thr cl v s imm r for a f w nd f r t n e n e en ut the e e e in e a e o e mi ut s , th p pi c s of har , cov r, simm r w ty n te n n en o f and mi u s , stirri g occasio ally . Th add two quarts good stock e en the in the e e . nd n simm r till t d r Skim a strai . Put liquor back st w

an and en t n Add red - n e and p thick wi h brow roux . a jar of curra t j lly

n ne m e f or ten n e e n an e e . half a pi t of port wi ; si m r mi ut s, r movi g y gr as e h Plac t e hare in a clean st ewpan ; season the sauce and pour ov er . n the e in h f we Pou d liv r t e mortar ; moisten with th e blood ; add a e br ad l e e e and e e n h e e and crumbs , a ittl chopp d parsl y thym ; s aso wit p pp r salt ;

1 46 MENU DISHES

n e n and e e e s trai through a soup cloth ; s aso , add a littl sh rry . Put a littl in and n o n ice e e of this gravy a mould , sta d to mak sur that it will e Re e the to the ie and n n e n s t . mov p of p ﬁll up with gravy ; co ti u doi g h e te e e en lea v e ' to et ut n so until t e m at is qui cov r d ; th s . C rou d the n e and e the top edge with a sharp k if r mov e case. Cut a l emon length ways and slice v ery thin ; lay the pi eces of lemon rou nd the edge of

the ie e n e e . the e n e the p , ov rlappi g ach oth r Chop r mai d r of gravy or e and e in he n e O e t e . e e aspic j lly pil up c tr th r gam , such as partridg , be e ed in the e e & c. . grous , , may tr at sam way

PASTE FOR RAISED PIES

in lb. e 6 1 . e in h To of sift d flour rub oz of butter . Mak a well t e en e and e in e t e and n enne c tr plac two gg yolks , a lit l salt, a pi ch of cay e e Add e and e e but p pp r. wat r mix to produc a rath r firm smooth Let a n t ten n e en an dough . it st d for abou mi ut s ; th roll out d fold ov er Th in the e . e e en be in t . shap of a pouch past should th about i . hick e n e n e e e e e n the Pr ss i to a cas , usi g a pi c of past to pr ss w ll i to mould . Fold the ed e the and in w ell ov er top g of mould fill .

RAI SED PIES WITH HOT- WATER PASTE

An e n e e - e s e in oth r way of maki g rais d pi s is with hot wat r pa t , but

this case th e crust is u neatable. Boil som e water with a little butter the e in the en e the a nd (about 1 oz . to quart) ; mak a bay c tr of ﬂour in Mi n x e . e e pour the water . whil hot to a ﬁrm dough K ad quit n en en a e n e et smooth , or, if co v i t, p ss through a biscuit roll r u til of a v lv y the en e e and th e en appearance . Cut a strip of l gth r quir d stick two ds

o et e e e n n e e out the and in t g h r with gg ; fast rou d a pi c cut for bottom , p ch he n e M the e e in the e together with t pastry ipp rs . ark top dg sam way ; r in en e e n e e e s & c . e th d corat rou d with l av s , ﬂow , fruit , birds , mad moulds d ee n e in WI th t the e an . e e wi h past , k p u til dry Fill this sh ll cook d gam ; o e the e e e and ee in the e brush v r past with whit of gg, proc d sam way i e e ie e can be e e and e me e as for pheasant p e. Th s p cas s pr par d k pt so tim en e e th e en e be r e b efo re using. Wh th y com from ov th y should b ush d e e e n e n ov er with r duc d aspic j lly u til quit shi y.

GALANTINE OF VEAL

e e v e o ne and on the e n e Tak a br ast of al ; b it lay it out tabl , ski sid h n d t and n and e e t e e . S e s e e an dow , qually divid m at a o with p pp r sal , e e r e ea e le e as e in en spr ad a lay r of fo c m t ov r, with a litt foi gr mix d ; th Out e n e n o e f at ac n and e e e som to gu i t strips , som b o , st am d yolk of gg , and e e in and in et een e e tac h lay th s strips rows, b w spr ad som pis io, f e and n e e . e e e e slic d tru ﬂ , mushroom Put a oth r lay r of forc m at all ov r this ; roll up and tie tightly in a clo th ; c ook in well -ﬂav o ured stock ; n d h n en . en u e an as t e cl th lift out Wh cool , ti w h oth ; roll up tight agai and tie e w e t on e and v ry tight ; put a dish or board ith w igh to pr ss , JOI NTS 1 47

e e et e en e the t the en and l av to g quit cold ; th tak out of cloth , rim ds , n i o in e . e o e e n e brush or dip glaz D c rat with aspic j lly, cut circl s ,

n &c . diamo ds , GALANTINE OF CHICKEN

ne en and t n the e the e e en Bo a chick spli dow back ; divid m at v ly , a nd ee n ne e I f e e n ne can . e proc d as for gala ti of v al pr f rr d , this gala ti be e e e n e mask d ov r with bécham l , tomato, or brow chaudfroid sauc s n in e e be set . i st ad of glaz , or it may aspic

PR ESSED BEE F

R emov e the bones from a good plump brisk et : rub w ell with salt ; n a w n th i n en i n t o e e n . lay a p for days , rubbi g salt w ll occasio ally Th n fﬁ n e on n place in pickl e for eight days . Wh e su ci e tly pickl d lay a drai er n n e e f e w n a d e in e e e e plac boili g wat r with som spic (a p pp rcor s , whol e e e e e and o f nn n e in spic , clov , mac , bay l av s , a stick ci amo crush d a in e t S e en n en e mortar) ti ed a pi ec of clo h . imm r g tly u til thoroughly t d r ; en t and e in e e m n o r in an n th lif out pr ss a fram mad fro stro g wood , iro one e e n the n n n en n out and n . L av u til followi g mor i g ; th tur cut i to

and de te t e . e e the e e e . e pi c s of siz r quir d Glaz , cora wi h aspic j lly

PI CKLE FOR BR IS KET OF BEEF

8 n d on . . 2 . e an Boil gal of wat r pour to lb of salt , Alb brow sugar , in f w es e d e e. en e e an . i lb saltp tr Wh cold , throw a bruis d clov , mac ,

nn n . n we e e e and S e o bay l av s , thym , a stick of ci amo tir w ll ; it is r ady d w n use n the e e e e an e e e . for . Tur brisk t ov r v ry day , wash ll b for cooki g

CHAPTER XXXII I

JOI NTS — ROAS T SI R LOIN OF BEE F ALOYAU DE BCEUF ROTI

h t n e ne f n and e e t e . I n Trim the sirloi sk w r flap par u d r ath roasti g , f r the en n e en e e hang close to the fire o first tw ty mwi ut s ; th plac farth r e e n e and t e e e e n s n away . Bast w ll at i t rvals , a li tl hil b for fi i hi g dust e the the an e e n over with salt . Mak gravy from p , aft r r movi g all fat ,

n e n . n the by pouring som e boili ng stoc k i s aso Pour rou d m eat . Scraped e an e e en t n A horseradis h or horseradish sauc is xc ll additio . llow for cooki ng at the rate of two hours for 7 lb. — B RAI S ED SI R LOIN ALOYAU DE BCEUF B RAIS E

Remove the bones from a 7 -lb pi ece of sirl o i n ; roll it quite rou nd: n e e and n n t e e fastening the ﬂap rou d with a sk w r, bi d rou d wi h a pi c of and a e in n an o n se o f e e le tape . Lard it , pl c a braisi g p a brai v g tab , a 1 48 M ENU DI SHES f wW e e e o n e e e e e and e hol spic , p pp rc r s , clov s, bay l av s , a clov of garlic . Simm er o n a go od ﬁre for ten minutes ; add som e stock and red wine ; e in the en e e and en f o r w t o plac ov , cov r d tightly , cook g tly hours . R e e the ee en n and e e the and mov b f ; th strai r duc liquor , add to it som e

n e. S an the ee in the en ee e e brow sauc t d b f ov to k p hot ; glaz ov r, dish , and The n h pour sauce over . am e of t e dish d ep ends on the garnish used ;

t e e e e n the n e a la. a r di n ér thus wi h a mix d v g tabl gar ish am is j i e.

— ROAST FILLET OF BEEF FILET DE B(E UF ROTI

t . e e e o 6 e . and e Tak ab u lb of fill t of b f Trim , lard it w ll with bacon e in fat . Pour som salad oil a dish ; add a little p epper and salt ; lay the et in n n e n en fill this for two hours, tur i g ov r occasio ally . Th roast e e fire i n the n ne n I f e e . e in the b for a good or ov till do , basti g w ll cook d en e ee f at and en ne ne e off a nd n ov cov r with b f , wh arly do tak fat brow . and n I t e n Mak e a good gravy pour rou d . will tak about o e hour and a e t quart r o cook .

R S OF F R F R M— OF B CEUF RO A LA REF RM OA T FILLET BEE , E O FILET TI O E

e e and the e e and e in an en Pr par lard ﬁll t, cov r with ham fat, bak ov ; e e n on crustard baste w ll m a while. Dish a potato of mashed potatoes shaped lik e th e ﬁllet and browned in the ov en ; put a Reform garnish on an e each side d pour R eform sauce ov r. — BR AIS ED FILLET OF BEEF FILET DE B CEUF BR AI S E

Cut and the e and in the e e , trim , lard ﬁll t , cook sam way as brais d n nd e e th e o Add i n ee . en e e a t sirloi of b f Wh do , glaz , r duc liqu r . to

n n - l A o e n 4 e . e e e e . b som spag ol sauc llow hour for braisi g a . ﬁll t

R S OF F S — BCEUF R SE A B AI ED FILLET BEE , MILANE E FILET DE B AI LA MILANAI S E

Prepare and cook the ﬁll et as abov e ; reduce the liquor with som e e n e e e n and e e e spag ol sauc ; s aso it , mix with it som cook d spagh tti

- t i nt 2 in . e e e S e e n e and n . Cu macaro i o pi c s som hr dd d mushrooms, to gu , nd en f e e e e n ee e t a t et e . tru ﬂ ; add som grat d Parm sa ch s to his, stir g tly og h r e n n n e e and ee e e e e Mak a fou datio of spi ach , or boil d ric ch s , brush d w ll ov r in h n S e th e a e the e and ne t e e . e with gg brow d ov lic ﬁll t, pl c parts h n n n he n e e n and on t e . t tog th r agai , dish fou datio Gar ish with macaro i ,

8 m and e e . , pour sauc ov r

OF F R R — BCEUF A RR FILLET BEE , LO AINE FILET DE LA LO AINE

e e e a e Prepare and braise th e ﬁllet as before. Pr par som pot to bord r h and 2 in s and make a socl e down a dish the siz e of t e ﬁll et . high ; bru h n h n S e and e e e n e e a d n in t e e . ov r with gg, brow ov lic plac tog th r agai

and on . n e o n n n e dish potato Gar ish with som small butt o io s , brais d ; s e m e the e t e e de om potato , ad from potato bord r with a li tl cr am ad d , and on n ee e and o ne in the laid out a baki g sh t with a star tub , br w d

1 5 0 M ENU DI SHES

“ e e red e ra s e a nd t a e Garnish with shr dd d cabbag , b i d , po ato ch t au t e red ne and e R educe the liquor with a li tl wi pour ov r.

— BOILED BEEF BCE UF BOUILLIE

1 e e n ee in e e en Place 0 lb. of silv rsid or rou d of b f pickl for s v days ; t e o ut and m off an and e en ak , wash , put to boil ; ski y scum simm r g tly e e e l n an d e th e for three hours . Mak som su t dump i gs plac with e b ef e n d ee an e e . Cut e n an hour b for it is do up som carrots, tur ips, l ks, e the ee S en e the ene and cook thes with b f . d to tabl with fat fast d n the n nd e e e e a e . wi th a silv er sk w r . Gar ish with dumpli gs v g tabl s — ROUND OF BEEF CULOTTE DE B(E UF BOUILLIE

The e n ee e e en d e n and larg rou d of b f, cold , is xc ll t for out oor cat ri g, r si s mak es a capital p i ece de e ta n ce.

— ROAST LEG OF MUTTON GIGOT DE MOUTON ROTI

- n l n h h n Choose a w ell hu g eg of mutto about 7 lb. Sawo ff t e s a k bone ; with the poi nt of a steel mak e a hol e in th e k nuckl e end along h n e in and t e bo e ; push a small clov of garlic . Dust over with salt

i - and o e n the en o ne and ee e . ﬂour, r ast or bak ov for hour thr quart rs e the n e the e and e e e n Mak gravy from u d r m at, s rv with a pap r frill rou d n the k uckl e . — BOILED LEG OF MUTTON GI GOT DE MOUTON BOUILLI

' - l l m ut on in an b. e t t e e 7 e r. Put a g of oval pot , jus cov r d with cold wat en n e and e en and e Wh boili g , add a littl salt , simm r g tly for two a quart r e e e n and n o n hours . Cook som pi c s of carrot, tur ip , small o i s with it ;

e e e n . en ne e e e the if d sir d , small su t dumpli gs also Wh do , r duc som of dd the e e as e n to a e . liquor to cap r sauc which , a rul , accompa i s this dish — B RAISED LEG OF MUTTON GI GOT DE MOUTON BR AI sE

-l le o n o ff th e n ne an d on Take a 7 b. g of mutt ; cut sha k bo lay a e e e e e ee n n n ee brais of v g tabl (mad of thr carrots , two tur ips, four o io s , thr e an d e e e een e n clov s, a blad of mac , a littl ham fat , which has b simm ri g nd n n e n en n e ten n e . e a e for mi ut s) Cov r, co ti u simm ri g for tw ty mi ut s ; nd in the en e 3 . a add qt of stock put ov to cook , which will tak about h n e v e n t e . ﬁ e and a half hours . Dish with a pap r frill rou d k uckl n and n n n and n e . S Gar ish with carrots, tur ips, small o io s, also brais d trai ,

pour gravy ov er . — STUFFED LE G OF MUTTON GI GOT DE MOUTON FAB CI

- l le n e nn n the Remove the bone from a 5 b. g of mutto by b gi i g at n e end and n n n e n th e n e n the k uckl passi g a thi k if rou d bo , foldi g meat a ff h n n away from you as you proceed . S wo at t e e d of the leg bo e ; n h n in e e se n a d t e e . e aso , fold m at back agai Fill with v al farc or v al JOINTS 1 5 1

n hi e o Se nd an e . w stufﬁ g, to w ch add a littl mushro m puré up the e d e e ee S en brais as abov for thr hours . d to table with a boat of piquant e and an e e a e n be e e e sauc y v g t bl gar ish that may pr f rr d .

— ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON EPAULE DE MOUTON ROTI E

e - lb e Choos a plump 5 should r of mutton . Chop o ff the bone just e the n n e h and e and set in abov joi t ; spri kl wit salt a littl ﬂour, to roast n the ﬁre n n d e o e an te . I f e fro t of , basti g w ll , for hour a quar r cook d in the en e e n n on and e e e e ov , lay som cl a drippi g cov r with gr as d pap r. e the m n e he a n nd t e e a o nd. I t is Mak gravy fro u d r m at ; s so , p ur rou e e n n e n usual to s rv a boat of o io sauc with this joi t.

— STUFFED SHOULDER OF M UTTON EPAULE DE MOUTON FAR CIE

ne the e n n the S n on Bo should r of mutto , without cutti g ki ; lay it the tabl e ; season the m eat with sal t a nd pepper and stuff it as for

. w n fe le n S e n e and e stuf d g of mutto it up i to a rou d shap brais it.

E e e e e u n I n an e - e ne ith r r duc d brais d liq or or piqua t, talia , or y w ll s aso d n stock sauce may be serv ed with this joi t .

- — ROLLE D SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH OYSTE RS EPAULE DE MOUTON ROULEF AUX HUITR ES

ne e n e s n the e and in t en Bo a small should r of mutto , s a o m at, lay w ty e w n e e S t e e four oyst rs (with b ards up i o a roll shap ; brais , d n e en e e e and n e e n a n e . wh quit t d r , glaz ov r, pour a brow oyst r sauc rou d

— ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON SELLE D E MOUTON B OTIE

h The saddle is the whol e doubl e loi n with t e legs cut o ff . Trim the e n o ff and the e the n n e outsid ski , mark oth r with poi t of a sharp k if , the n e ne a nd n n ee e diamondwise. Fold ﬂap u d r ath bi d rou d thr tim s the n and e e ne i n e n . S with stri g plit tail , curl rou d , sk w r a kid y ach n e e e and e a nd e e in the half ; spri kl with salt, p pp r, ﬂour ; cov r, bast w ll

- h l . m A w 1 0 b. e e t e cooking . llo two hours for a saddl Mak gravy fro h e R ed- n e n e u nder t e m at . curra t j lly should always accompa y saddl of n mutto .

S S OF R U —S A BRAI ED ADDLE MUTTON , G AND D KE ELLE DE MOUTON LA G RAND DUC

e and n n Proceed exactly as above. Glaz gar ish with poi ts of asparagus 1 in n and e e e c coa e t te cut about A . lo g, small h ads of st w d chi ory, t d wi h whi Add the e e l o e red- r n e l and ne sauce. to r duc d iqu r a littl cu ra t j l y qort Wi , n a nd pour rou d . 1 5 2 MENU DI SHES

‘ R S D S OF ON RY—S BRAI SEE ' B AI E ADDLE MUTT , WITH CELE ELLE DE MOUTON AU CELER I

n e nd ni a n re e a d e. e a e P par brais as abov Glaz , gar sh with sm ll bu dl s e mi laze n and e e e e e e . de e e of st w d c l ry Pour som g rou d , s rv with c l ry

sauce hand ed separately .

— BOILED NECK OF MUTTON CARR IE DE MOUTON BOUILLI

Chine a neck of mutton by sawing away the backbone from the tlet e en m and b e th e t he ne 1 in Ou . m at Th tri ar top of bo s about .

n an d ri t e e e e . S e Un e en dow p t to boil wi h som v g tabl imm r til quit t der .

. Dry the fat in the ov en f o r a minute or t wo ; dish o n one sid e of a in h n ne n e e ne t e e . mou d of mash d potato (pr viously brow d ov ) , bo s upwards Put whatev er garnish is to be used o n th e oth er side ; place a cutl et frill ne and n C e e n e on e e . ach bo pour sauc rou d ap r, soubis , piqua t, or oth r

sauce may be serv ed with this dish .

— ROAST NECK OF MUTTON CA R R E DE MOUTON ROTI

e e n e e e and e Pr par as for boili g . Dust ov r with salt, p pp r, ﬂour ; plac in n tin and e e e e in n a baki g cov r with butt r d pap r , or roast fro t of nr h n e the r ee ce en . e t e ﬁ e. K p it of a gold colour Mak gravy from u d r n m eat and pour rou d .

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY

Ki r kl and , John Th e m e od rn baker , c o nf e c t i one r and c a t e r e r