THE MODERN BAKER CONFECTIONER AND CATERER z O P m O uu O z Q Q UJ o Ul. THE MODERN BAKER CONFECTIONER AND CATERER A PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC WORK FOR THE BAKING AND ALLIED TRADES EDITED BY JOHN KIRKLAND LECTURER AND TEACHER OF BREAD- MAKING NATIONAL BAKERY SCHOOL BOROUGH POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE LONDON WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LEADING SPECIALISTS AND TRADE EXPERTS DIVISIONAL-VOL. V THE GRESHAM PUBLISHING COMPANY THIRTY-FOUR SOUTHAMPTON STREET STRAND LONDON 1909 mMS — CONTENTS DIVISIONAL-VOL. V MENU DISHES Page Chapter XXXIV. The Preparation of a Boar's Head - - - 153 Commercial Boar's Head—Size of Head—To Bone the Head—Dry Pickle—Pickling in Brine— StuflBng for Boar's Head— Seasoning for Force Meat—Covering to Boil in —Cutting the Ears—Tying up the Head—Boiling in Stock— Boiling in Water Cooking the Ears—Head allowed to Set —Farce for Moulding— Moulding the Head Method of Glazing—Placing Eyes and Tusks—Piping Figures, &c. Chapi'er XXXV. Vegetable and Fruit Salads 156 Salad Vegetables — Salad Dressing — Oil for Salad — Plain Dressing — Rich Salad Dressing—Sugar in Salad Dressing—Potato Salad^— Plain Green Salad —Garnishing Salad —French Salad—Keeping Eggs Bright—Skinning Tomatoes— French Spring Salad — Radishes — Plain Cucumber Salad — Tomato Salad — Chopped Parsley and Spanish Onions—German Salad— Apples in Salad—Macedoine Salad—Russian Salad —Ham and Tongue—Prawns and Crayfish—Caviar—Lobster Salad—Italian Salad Fish and Meat Salads—French Method of Salad Dressing—Fruit Salads—Iced Macedoine of Fruits—Tim bales for Fruit Salad—Use of Tinned Fruits— Orange Salad —Cherry Salad —Banana Salad—Pear Salad—Whipped Cream and Strawberries. Chapter XXXVL Vegetables for Garnishing and Second-Course Dishes ........ 162 Boiled Potatoes—New Potatoes— Mashed Potatoes—Potato Balls—Chip Potatoes Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel—New Potatoes, with Cream—Stewed Green Peas Peas, French Method—Glazed Turnips—Glazed Carrots—Vegetable Marrows—As- paragus—French Beans, with Supreme Sauce—Broad Beans a la Creme—Cucumber, with Espagnole Sauce—Cucumber, with Veloute Sauce—Tomatoes, with Italian Sauce —Forced Mushrooms—Cauliflowers—Cauliflower with Cheese—Celery— Celery, with Espagnole Sauce—Vegetables for Garnishing. Chapter XXXVII. Puddings and Sweets 168 Caramel Rice Pudding—Balmoral Rice Pudding—Balmoral Pudding, No. 2—Rice and Apple Pudding—Apple Marmalade—Palermo Pudding— Semolina Pudding Vanilla Pudding — Chocolate Pudding— Coffee Pudding— Tutti-Frutti Pudding— ——— vi CONTENTS Page Ginger Pudding—Amber Pudding—Lemon Sauce for Amber Pudding—Princess Pudding — Chestnut Pudding — Raspberry Pudding — Plain Raspberry Pudding — Bread Crumbs in Puddings—Pineapple Pudding—Coburg Pudding—Saxony Pudding —Apricot Pudding—Orange Pudding—French Pudding—Ostend Pudding— Cabinet Pudding—Plain Bread Pudding—Conservative Pudding—Tapioca Pudding—Nouille Pudding — Parmesan Cheese Pudding — Imperial Pudding — Christmas Pudding Christmas Plum Pudding, No. 2 — Noir Pudding—Strawberry Pudding — Biscuit Pudding— Bread and Butter Pudding—Plain Plum Pudding—Rice and Stewed Fruit —College Pudding. Chapter XXXVIII. Sweet Sauces for Puddings - - - - 179 Madeira Sauce —Apricot Sauce—Rich Vanilla Sauce—Plain Custard—Apple Sauce Orange Sauce. LIGHT REFRESHMENTS Chapter XXXIX. Wine Cups and Iced Light Refreshments - - 181 Claret Cup—Hock Cup—Moselle Cup— Burgundy Cup—Badminton Cup—Loving Cup—Champagne Cup—Cider Cup—Beer Cup—Other Cups—Lemonade—Orangeade —Iced Coffee. Chapter XL. Sandwiches and Savoury Rolls - - - - - 184 Sandwiches and Petits Pains—Sandwich-cutting—Mustard -and -Cress Sandwiches Cucumber Sandwiches—Tomato Sandwiches—Ham Sandwiches—Tongue Sandwiches —Smoked Salmon Sandwiches—Beef Sandwiches—Potted Beef—Potted Veal-and- Ham Sandwiches—Chicken Sandwiches—Chesterfield Sandwiches—Fowl and Mush- room Sandwiches—Foie Gras Sandwiches— Sardine Sandwiches—Anchovy Sandwiches —Lobster Sandwiches — Shrimp Sandwiches—Petit Pain de Foie Gras—Chicken Rolls—Lobster Rolls—Shrimp Rolls—Salmon Rolls—Chicken Rissoles. OUTSIDE CATERING Chapter XLI. The Confectioner-Caterer - 190 Outdoor Catering a Special Business—Folly of Cheap Estimates—Meanness of Enter- tainers—Calculate Cost of Transit—Need of Good Service— Customers Prefer Atten- tion of Principals—Staff Required— Proportion of Waiters to Guests—Carting and Packing—Taking Care of Plant —Counting the Guests—Punctuality Necessary. Chapter XLII. Estimating and Hiring 195 Careful Estimating—Expedients for Cheapness —Keeping Own Hire—Hire Prices Conditions of Hiring—Rates for Different Periods—Total Hire for Functions—Goods Required for a Dinner for Twenty Persons—Sit-down Wedding Breakfast or Ball Supper for Twenty Persons— Buffet Breakfast or Supper List for Fifty Persons Wedding Reception for Twenty Persons—Cost of Hiring Plated Ornaments, &c., sepa- rately —Cost of Hiring Tables, Seats, and Chairs—Capacity for Various Functions, and Prices of Hire, of Marquees with Square Ends without Decorations. Chapter XLIII. Arranging the Tables 202 Breadth of Tables—Caterers' Difficulties—Temporary Rooms, Tents, &c. —Table Room for Each Person—Carving and Service Tables—Suitable Arrangement for Small Parties—Plan for about Sixty Persons—Service Position for Large Tent Party Arrangement for Large Party in Small Space—Cosy Arrangement of Tables—Buffet System for Light Refreshments —Circular Tables—Arrangement of Small Tables Value of Straight Passages—Importance of Careful Table Planning. — —— CONTENTS vii Page Chapter XLIV. Estimating for Teas, Luncheons, Ball Suppers, &c. 208 Small Margins—Estimate for a Tea for 200 Persons at 9d. per Head—Tea for 200 at Is. —Luncheon for 200 at 2s. — Plain Dinner for 500 at tin. —Dinner for 100 at 3s. —Dinner for 100 at 6s.— Ball Supper, including Light Refreshments, for 100 at 6»., with Hot Soup on Departure—Reception for 500 at 3s. 6d. —Garden Party for 200 at 3s. 6d.— Ball Supper for 200 at 5s.—Wedding Breakfast for 50 at 7s. 6d. Chapter XLV. Sample Menus 224 Dinner Price Factors—Special Menus from Recipes—Dinner for 100 at 6s. —Dinner for 100 at 7s. 6cJ.—Dinner for 100 at 9s.—Dinner for 100 at 12s. 6d.—Dinner for 100 at 158. —Dinner for 100 at 17s. 6d.—Ball Suppers and Receptions. RESTAURANT CATERING Chapter XLVI. The Restaurant Kitchen 228 Restaurant v. Dining-room—Keep Departments Separate—The Stockpot —Stewpans —Bain-marie—Frying Kettle—Frying Pans—Sieves—Large and Small Coolers Pointed Strainers—Fish Kettles—Cast-iron Boiling Pots—Block-tin Boiling Pots— Small Utensils—Enamelled - iron Dishes—Mincing Machines—Mortar— Carving in Dining-room—Hot Tables—Duties of Carver—Sweets in Restaurant Menu—Pastries as Sweets—Staff for Restaurant— Scullery Maid—Relation of Manager and Chef Difficulties of Starting—Duties of Chef—Second Cook's Duties —Duties of Kitchen Maid—Duties of Vegetable Cook—Duties of Kitchen Porter—Duties of Scullery Maid —Supplies— Making up Left Viands—The Cold-Meat Table—Permanent Dishes Chef, Manager, and Head Waiter—To Use up Cold Lamb—Use of Cold Veal —To Use Cold Poultry—Liquor from Boiled Meats—Typical Menus for Restaurants Cottage Pie —Lancashire Hot Pot—Bouchees and Patties—Importance of Carving —Checking in Dining-room—Checking in Kitchen — Checking Goods Received. Chapter XLVII. The Management of a Restaurant - - - 241 Classes of Restaurant—London and Provincial Restaurants Compared—To Hold Customers—A Restaurant for 200—The Service Staff—Staff for Carving—Checking Accounts —Check on Kitchen—Checks on Waiters—Books to be Kept — Monthly Stocktaking—Checking Tradesmen's Accounts—Importance of Chef and Waiter The Carver—Diary for Prices—Petty Cash Purchases—Manager's Ability to Carve Hints on Carving— Knives for Different Purposes— Choosing the Joints—How to Carve a Joint—Carving a Sirloin —Boiled Round of Beef—Leg of Mutton—Haunch of Mutton—Carving Leg of Pork—Carving Large Fowl—Fowls, Ducklings, &c. Haunch of Venison—Veal, Ham, and Tongue—Restaurant Fittings—An Efficient Carving Table—The Silver Grill —Setting out Cold Joints—Table d'Hote Luncheons —Country Hotel Ordinary—Variety the Essential— Specimen Restaurant Menus Dishes in Season—Moderate Charges, Chapter XLVIII. Luncheon and Tea Rooms 253 Definition of a Tea Room—Savouries in Tea Shops Tariff of Leading Tea Shops The Crockery—Dirty Tablecovers —Civil Waitresses— Tipping System—Payment by Returns—Uniformity of Quality—Coffee-house Tea—Combination Appliance—Good Coffee—Siphons for Coffee without Grounds—Percolating Coffee Machines— Counter Hotplate—Water-boiler and Hotplate—Combined Appliances— Boiling- water Pillar Steam Counter Combination— Profits in Poor Districts—Self-steaming Cookers Jacketed Pie-warmer—Counter Pastry-warmer and Hotplate. — CONTENTS BAKERY FIXTURES AND FITTINGS Page Chapter XLIX Bakery Ovens 269 Importance of Good Ovens— Essentials of a Good Oven—Value of Appearance—The Best Oven—Simplest Kind of Oven—Old Scotch Ovens— Management of the Old Scotch Oven—The Wagon Oven—Modern Scotch Oven—Management of the Scotch Oven—Heat Capacity of the Scotch Oven—Source of Heat in the Scotch Oven Cottage Loaves in a Scotch Oven— Advantages and Disadvantages of the Scotch Oven—Side-flue Ovens—Heating in Side-flue Oven—Flat-crowned Ovens —Advantages and Disadvantages of Side-flue Ovens—Use of Coke in Side -flue Ovens—Austrian Oven — Externally Heated Ovens — Advantages and Disadvantages of Externally Heated Ovens—Hot-air Ovens—Baker's Patent Oven—Chamber Ovens— Heat Trap — " Oven—Economy of Fuel—Reel Oven—Merits and Defects of Reel Oven "Yankee or "Boomerang" Ovens—Rotary Oven—Travelling Ovens—Steam-pipe Ovens Inventor