From the Story of the Minotaur to the Second World War. Crete: from Knossos to Kreipe

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

From the Story of the Minotaur to the Second World War. Crete: from Knossos to Kreipe Crete: from Knossos to Kreipe from the story of the Minotaur to the Second World War. 25 April to 6 May 2017 The Villa Ariadne The house which Arthur Evans built as his headquarters when he was excavating Knossos, the Minoan archaeological site south of Heraklion, Crete, was christened the Villa Ariadne on ac- count of the legend of Theseus escaping from the Minotaur in the Labyrinth using the thread that King Minos’ daughter had provided. It’s as good an image as you could wish for! During the Sec- ond World War when the island was occupied by the Italians and Germans, the villa became the home of various senior German officers including General Kreipe. Exactly seventy three years ago, he was on his way home after a day’s work in April 1944 when he was kidnapped by British Special Operations Executive (SOE) agents Patrick Leigh Fermor and Bill Stanley Moss. They suc- cessfully smuggled him off the island. This tour, on the 73rd anniversary of that abduction, also examines the narrative of SOE in Crete as well as the island’s ancient history. The tour is guided by Chris White who has recently edited Patrick Leigh Fermor’s own account of the abduction of the general, Costas Mamalakis who is Crete’s foremost expert on the Occupation period (as well as being an historian of the 19th century) and Rufus Reade whose father was an SOE agent on the island. We have chosen to go in late April/early May to catch the spring flowers. Our visit will include some Minoan sites, the excellent Historical Museum of Crete in Heraklion and remote villages associated with the SOE story. There will be some opportunities to walk and we will visit places which are not normally seen by visitors to the island. HIGHLIGHTS Heraklion Museum and Minoan sites The history of the abduction of German General Kreipe Spring wildflowers and remote Cretan villages Greek Orthodox monasteries The tour is accompanied by Chris White, British expert on General Kreipe’s abduction. Costas Mamalakis, Curator of Modern History at the Historical Museum of Crete & expert on the Occupation. The tour is led by Rufus Reade whose father was on the island as an SOE agent. JOURNEY DETAILS The Itinerary Location: Crete Dates: 25 April to 25 April Arrival 6 May 2017 into Heraklion and Duration: 11 nights transfer to our ac- Max: 15 travellers commodation for four Price: £2630 nights in the Kronos Hotel, Heraklion. Single room supplement: £200 Deposit: £250 26 April Costas Tour Code: RR 04/17 Mamalakis will give abducted. We will visit Mount us a guided tour of the Historical Juchtas – an important religious What’s included: Accommo- Museum before taking us on foot site for the Minoans with com- dation in 2 star hotels and best to explore the gates and walls of manding views of the area south available appartments, most Heraklion. We’ll visit the grave of Heraklion. Third night in meals (picnics/snack lunches), of the Greek writer Nikos Ka- Heraklion. all land transport by road as zantzakis (Zorba the Greek). His described in the itinerary, entry epitaph reads “I hope for nothing. 28 April Today you have to all the sites mentioned, and I fear nothing. I am free.” Costas the option of an independent day all tips. will take us through the drama in Heraklion, or the opportunity What’s not included: your of the Battle of Crete as fought in to explore the history of the Gen- international flights, lunch on 6 the streets of Heraklion. It’s 73 eral’s kidnap: our drive will take May, personal travel insurance, years ago to the day that Patrick us up the side of Mount Ida. We drinks, laundry, phonecalls, and Leigh Fermor drove the abduct- will visit a monastery with strong beverages. ed general through the streets links to the wartime resistance. of German occupied Heraklion. Your guides: the tour is accom- We plan to see the historic resis- There will be no transport laid on tance village of Anogia, destroyed panied by local museum curator today. Dinner in Achanes village, by the German in August 1944. Costas Mamalakis and British outside Heraklion. Second night There will be an optional 3km historian Chris White. The tour in Heraklion. walk to visit the Ideon Andron, is escorted by Rufus Reade. legendary birthplace of Zeus. This Walking: we will be walking on 27 April Drive out of Her- visit to the high plateau will give shepherds’ footpaths, and along aklion to see the Minoan site at us an opportunity to learn about motorable tracks. All walks rat- Knossos. We’ll also see the Villa the shepherding traditions and ed easy to moderate. Ariadne built by Sir Arthur Ev- community in the mountains of The tour is organised by Rufus ans as his archaeological head- Crete. Fourth night in Heraklion. Reade Tours, 40 Pilrig Street, quarters and home. It was later Edinburgh EH6 5AL used as the German headquarters 29 April Today we travel [email protected] during WWII. We’ll pause at the south into the Messara Valley to Tel 0131 554 1078 point where General Kreipe was visit the Minoan Palace of Phais- tos with its commanding views for its church, Minoan site and over the fertile Messara valley used during the war to shelter 4 May We will drive to south of Mt Ida. After lunch in a escaped Allied soldiers. Total the German War Cemetery to local village we will visit the very walking about 6kms. Third night appreciate both the extent of the good Museum of Cretan Ethnolo- at Agia Galini. German losses along with the key gy in Vori. We will stay for three turning point in the Battle. After nights in Agia Galini, which is a 2 May Today we travel lunch in Galatas – centre of an fishing port on the south coast. westward along the south coast epic battle and counterattack by We will be staying at the Galini of Crete. Our first stop is the Allied forces – we will drive to Mare Hotel – a boutique hotel monastery at Prevelli. We’ll have Rethymno via the poignant tran- with views over the harbour and lunch at the Kreipe evacuation quility of the British War Graves sea to the island of Paximadia. In beach at Rodakino. We’ll contin- Cemetery at Suda. First of three the legend of Icarus and Daedalus ue westwards to the small port of nights in the Palazzo Vecchio they started their flights here. Hora Sfakion. We plan to stay for Hotel, Rethymno. two nights in Lefkoritis Mountain 30 April Today we travel Resort, Askifou, on the plateau at 5 May Free day in up the eastern side of the Amari the western edge of the Levka Ori Rethymno or a chance to ex- Valley, stopping at the Arkadi (White Mountains). plore a hidden valley: you can Monastery, famous for its resis- walk or take advantage of a 4x4 tance to the Turkish occupation 3 May Today we will to ascend on shepherds’ roads as well as at the time of the Battle explore the Askifou plateau, and into the valley of Gournes, high of Crete and throughout the occu- descend the southern escarpment up on the western flank of the pation. We will be able to explore of Crete via the Imbros gorge White Mountains. We will visit the route taken by Leigh Fermor (about 4kms) . After lunch in the beehive hut used by SOE as and the Kreipe kidnap group as Hora Sfakion we will visit the ru- a wireless station, and where they descended after their tra- ined village of Aradena and drive Arthur Reade was based with verse of Mt Ida. Free afternoon in up to the high mountain village Xan Fielding, Leigh Fermor and Agia Galini with a chance to walk of Agios Ioannis before returning George Psychoundakis. We will and swim. Second night in Agia to Askifou. After sunset (20:38 return to Rethymno for our Galini. hrs) we will walk into the centre second night in this beautifully of the plateau to stargaze in the preserved Venetian port. 1 May Today we will dark sky (cloud cover permitting). drive along the western side of Second night in Askifou. 6 May Free day in Rethymno to the Amari Valley, following the explore this lovely port town. In- route of the Kreipe kidnap. We dependent lunch arrangements. will visit the hideout used by the In the evening after supper we group near Patsos where we will will drive to Heraklion airport have lunch before exploring the to check in for flights to London Agios Antonios gorge immedi- and Edinburgh. ately south of the village, famous .
Recommended publications
  • Crete 8 Days
    TOUR INFORMATIONS Crete White mountains and azure sea The village of Loutro village The SUMMARY Greece • Crete Self guided hike 8 days 7 nights Itinerant trip Nothing to carry 2 / 5 CYCLP0001 HIGHLIGHTS Chania: the most beautiful city in Crete The Samaria and Agia Irini gorges A good mix of walking, swimming, relaxation and visits of sites www.kelifos.travel +30 698 691 54 80 • [email protected] • CYCGP0018 1 / 13 MAP www.kelifos.travel +30 698 691 54 80 • [email protected] • CYCGP0018 2 / 13 P R O P O S E D ITINERARY Wild, untamed ... and yet so welcoming. Crete is an island of character, a rebellious island, sometimes, but one that opens its doors wide before you even knock. Crete is like its mountains, crisscrossed by spectacular gorges tumbling down into the sea of Libya, to the tiny seaside resorts where you will relax like in a dream. Crete is the quintessence of the alliance between sea and mountains, many of which exceed 2000 meters, especially in the mountain range of Lefka Ori, (means White mountains in Greek - a hint to the limestone that constitutes them) where our hike takes place. Our eight-day tour follows a part of the European E4 trail along the south-west coast of the island with magnificent forays into the gorges of Agia Irini and Samaria for the island's most famous hike. But a nature trip in Crete cannot be confined to a simple landscape discovery even gorgeous. It is in fact associate with exceptional cultural discoveries. The beautiful heritage of Chania borrows from the Venetian and Ottoman occupants who followed on the island.
    [Show full text]
  • CRETE 1941 EYEWITNESSED Anew Book by Costas Hadjipateras and Maria Fafalios
    I NEW BOOKS CRETE 1941 EYEWITNESSED ANew Book by Costas Hadjipateras and Maria Fafalios By PATRICK LEIGH FERMOR In the Spectator The appearance of this book, 50 years after the outbreak of war, is very timely. The author-editors, Costas Hadjipate­ ras and Maria Fafalios, already well known for their records of Greece at war - Testimonies '40- '41 and Testim­ onies '40-'44 - have now, in Crete 1941 Eyewitnessed, brought their skillful and tar-ranging technique to bear on the great island of its title. There is something epic and unique about Crete and several things single out the German parachute invasion and its aftermath from similar sequences of episodes. One ofthese is the fact that the battle against the invaders, though it was lost in the end, was so hard-fought and destructive that it was the last as well as the first major parachute on­ slaught the Germans ever launched. The second feature was the spontaneous participation, in the absence on the mainland of the Fifth Cretan Division, of any Cretan of any age who could lay his hands on a gun. The grim pattern of resistance and reprisal was set from the moment the first enemy parachutist touched ground. This remarkable book is a well chosen, informal assembly of eye­ witness accounts, from a great array of participants: British and Greek soldiers, Australians, New Zealand and Empire troops, Cretan mountaineers, doctors, civilians and the invading Germans themselves. The best of these last are from Daedalus Returns, by Baron von der Heydte, who commanded the first parachute wave to be dropped.
    [Show full text]
  • Special Operations Executive - Wikipedia
    12/23/2018 Special Operations Executive - Wikipedia Special Operations Executive The Special Operations Executive (SOE) was a British World War II Special Operations Executive organisation. It was officially formed on 22 July 1940 under Minister of Economic Warfare Hugh Dalton, from the amalgamation of three existing Active 22 July 1940 – 15 secret organisations. Its purpose was to conduct espionage, sabotage and January 1946 reconnaissance in occupied Europe (and later, also in occupied Southeast Asia) Country United against the Axis powers, and to aid local resistance movements. Kingdom Allegiance Allies One of the organisations from which SOE was created was also involved in the formation of the Auxiliary Units, a top secret "stay-behind" resistance Role Espionage; organisation, which would have been activated in the event of a German irregular warfare invasion of Britain. (especially sabotage and Few people were aware of SOE's existence. Those who were part of it or liaised raiding operations); with it are sometimes referred to as the "Baker Street Irregulars", after the special location of its London headquarters. It was also known as "Churchill's Secret reconnaissance. Army" or the "Ministry of Ungentlemanly Warfare". Its various branches, and Size Approximately sometimes the organisation as a whole, were concealed for security purposes 13,000 behind names such as the "Joint Technical Board" or the "Inter-Service Nickname(s) The Baker Street Research Bureau", or fictitious branches of the Air Ministry, Admiralty or War Irregulars Office. Churchill's Secret SOE operated in all territories occupied or attacked by the Axis forces, except Army where demarcation lines were agreed with Britain's principal Allies (the United Ministry of States and the Soviet Union).
    [Show full text]
  • Greece • Crete • Turkey May 28 - June 22, 2021
    GREECE • CRETE • TURKEY MAY 28 - JUNE 22, 2021 Tour Hosts: Dr. Scott Moore Dr. Jason Whitlark organized by GREECE - CRETE - TURKEY / May 28 - June 22, 2021 May 31 Mon ATHENS - CORINTH CANAL - CORINTH – ACROCORINTH - NAFPLION At 8:30a.m. depart from Athens and drive along the coastal highway of Saronic Gulf. Arrive at the Corinth Canal for a brief stop and then continue on to the Acropolis of Corinth. Acro-corinth is the citadel of Corinth. It is situated to the southwest of the ancient city and rises to an elevation of 1883 ft. [574 m.]. Today it is surrounded by walls that are about 1.85 mi. [3 km.] long. The foundations of the fortifications are ancient—going back to the Hellenistic Period. The current walls were built and rebuilt by the Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Ottoman Turks. Climb up and visit the fortress. Then proceed to the Ancient city of Corinth. It was to this megalopolis where the apostle Paul came and worked, established a thriving church, subsequently sending two of his epistles now part of the New Testament. Here, we see all of the sites associated with his ministry: the Agora, the Temple of Apollo, the Roman Odeon, the Bema and Gallio’s Seat. The small local archaeological museum here is an absolute must! In Romans 16:23 Paul mentions his friend Erastus and • • we will see an inscription to him at the site. In the afternoon we will drive to GREECE CRETE TURKEY Nafplion for check-in at hotel followed by dinner and overnight. (B,D) MAY 28 - JUNE 22, 2021 June 1 Tue EPIDAURAUS - MYCENAE - NAFPLION Morning visit to Mycenae where we see the remains of the prehistoric citadel Parthenon, fortified with the Cyclopean Walls, the Lionesses’ Gate, the remains of the Athens Mycenaean Palace and the Tomb of King Agamemnon in which we will actually enter.
    [Show full text]
  • Χρόνια Από Τη Μάχη Της Κρήτης Years Since the Battle of Crete
    Χρόνια από τη Μάχη της Κρήτης 75 Years since the Battle of Crete 15 – 22 Μαΐου / May 2016 ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑΚΗ ΕΝΟΤΗΤΑ ΧΑΝΙΩΝ Συντονισµός Εκδηλώσεων / Coordination of Events: Σήφης Μαρκάκης, Ειδικός Συνεργάτης σε θέµατα Τύπου & ∆ηµοσίων Σχέσεων Π.Ε. Χανίων Sifis Markakis, Special Collaborator to the Regional Unit of Chania for Press & PR Issues Ρούλα Οικονοµάκη, ∆ρ Αγγλικής Φιλολογίας, Υπεύθυνη Γραφείου Τύπου & ∆ηµοσίων Σχέσεων Π.Ε. Χανίων Roula Ikonomakis, PhD English Literature, Head of Press & PR Office, Regional Unit of Chania Επιµέλεια ελληνικών κειµένων / Editing of Greek texts:* Αθανασία Ζώτου, Φιλόλογος, MSc Φιλοσοφίας / Athanasia Zotou, Philologist, MSc Philosophy Αγγλική µετάφραση / English translation: Ρούλα Οικονοµάκη / Roula Ikonomakis Επιµέλεια αγγλικών κειµένων / Editing of English texts: John Irwin, Σκηνοθέτης, Παραγωγός / Film Maker, Wild Sweet Productions Σχεδιασµός εντύπου / Leaflet design Ρούλα Οικονοµάκη / Roula Ikonomakis Φωτογραφικό υλικό / Photographs:: Από το αρχείο του / from the archives of John Irwin Eξώφυλλο / Cover: Αφίσα του 1942 από το αρχείο του Λευτέρη Λαµπράκη, Ηθοποιού, Συλλέκτη 1942 poster from Lefteris Lamprakis’s archives, Actor, Collector Εκτύπωση προγράµµατος: Βασίλης Χαζηράκης Printing of programme: Vasilis Hazirakis * Οι υπογράφοντες τα Επίσηµα Μηνύµατα είναι υπεύθυνοι για το περιεχόµενο και τη µετάφραση τους. The signatories of the Official Messages are responsible for their content and translation. ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑ ΚΡΗΤΗΣ – REGION OF CRETE ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑ ΚΡΗΤΗΣ-ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑΚΗ ΕΝΟΤΗΤΑ ΧΑΝΙΩΝ REGION OF CRETE-REGIONAL UNIT OF CHANIA Γραφείο Τύπου & ∆ηµοσίων Σχέσεων / Press & Public Relations Office Πλατεία Ελευθερίας 1, 73100 Χανιά / 1 Eleftherias Square, Chania 73100 Τηλ./Tel. 28213-40160 – Φαξ/Fax 28213-40222 Ηλ. ∆/νση/e-mail: [email protected] - Ιστοσελίδα/Website: www.crete.gov.gr ΣΥΝΤΕΛΕΣΤΕΣ ΟΡΓΑΝΩΣΗΣ ΤΩΝ ΕΚ∆ΗΛΩΣΕΩΝ ΤΗΣ 75ΗΣ ΕΠΕΤΕΙΟΥ ΤΗΣ ΜΑΧΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΚΡΗΤΗΣ Τιµητική Επιτροπή: Σταύρος Αρναουτάκης, Περιφερειάρχης Κρήτης, Πρόεδρος Απόστολος Βουλγαράκης, Αντιπεριφερειάρχης Χανίων, Αντιπρόεδρος Μητροπολίτης Κυδωνίας & Αποκορώνου, κ.κ.
    [Show full text]
  • British School at Athens Newsletter
    The British School at Athens December an institute for advanced research 2018 From the Director It is a great pleasure to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year with this fourth issue of our newsletter offering up to date news of our activities to all who share our passion for study of the Hellenic world in all aspects and all periods. A year ago I wrote that ‘[t]he wall John Bennet (L) around our premises is a highly porous welcomes visitors, including HMA Kate membrane, through which many Smith (R) to the pass…’. At that time I could hardly have BSA as part of ‘The imagined that we would be looking British Open Day’ back on how that ‘porosity’ allowed 6,500 to visit our garden between Both these collaborations received are available to view on our recently mid-September and mid-November positive media coverage and raised the redesigned website. to experience the NEON organisation’s BSA’s profile here in Athens considerably. The website redesign is part of our City Project 2018 ‘Prosaic Origins’, an Alongside these events, our regular Development programme, about which exhibition of sculpture by Andreas programme in Athens and the UK there is more below, including a reminder­­ Lolis. The sense of loss generated by continued. One highlight for me was a of how to sign up to our new tiered sup- what now seem like empty spaces is performance at the BSA of the Odyssey — porter structure in effect from 1 January mitigated by the knowledge that a in two hours — by UK-based storytellers 2019.
    [Show full text]
  • Greek-Australian Alliance 1899
    GREEK-AUSTRALIAN ALLIANCE 1899 - 2016 100th Anniversary Macedonian Front 75th Anniversary Battles of Greece and Crete COURAGE SACRIFICE MATESHIP PHILOTIMO 1899 -1902 – Greek Australians Frank Manusu (above), Constantine Alexander, Thomas Haraknoss, Elias Lukas and George Challis served with the colonial forces in the South African Boer War. 1912 - 1913 – Australian volunteers served in the Royal Hellenic Forces in the Balkans Wars. At the outbreak of the Second Balkan War in 1913, John Thomas Woods of the St John Ambulance volunteered for service with the Red Cross, assisting the Greek Medical Corps at Thessaloniki, a service for which he was recognised with a Greek medal by King Constantine of Greece. 1914 - 1918 – Approximately 90 Greek Australians served on Gallipoli and the Western Front. Some were born in Athens, Crete, Castellorizo, Kythera, Ithaca, Peloponnesus, Samos, and Cephalonia, Lefkada and Cyprus and others in Australia. They were joined by Greek Australian nurses, including Cleopatra Johnson (Ioanou), daughter of Antoni Ioanou, gold miner of Moonan Brook, NSW. One of 13 Greek Australian Gallipoli veterans, George Cretan (Bikouvarakis) was born in Kefalas, Crete in 1888 and migrated to Sydney in 1912. On the left in Crete, 1910 and middle in Sydney 1918 wearing his Gallipoli Campaign medals. Right, Greek Australian Western Front veteran Joseph Morris (Sifis Voyiatzis) of Cretan heritage. PAGE 2 1915, 4th March – The first Anzacs landed on Lemnos Island, in Moudros Harbour and were part of the largest armada ever assembled at that time. The island served as the main base of operations for the Gallipoli Campaign, including hospitals. In the waters around Lemnos and the island’s soil now rest over 220 Anzacs.
    [Show full text]
  • 1 Political Geography and Palatial Crete Andrew Bevan Postprint Of
    Political geography and palatial Crete Andrew Bevan Postprint of 2010 paper in Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology 23.1: 27-54 (doi: 10.1558/jmea.v23i1.27). Abstract The political geography of Crete during the period of the Bronze Age palaces has been a subject of widespread debate, not only with respect to the timing of the island’s move towards greater social and political complexity, but also with regard to the nature of the political institutions and territorial configurations that underpinned palace-centred society, as well as their longer-term stability over the course of the 2nd millennium BC. As such, the region provides an ideal context in which to consider the broader question of how we develop robust political geographies in pre- and proto-historic contexts. This paper proposes the need for a more deliberate interlocking of computational, comparative and material approaches, as a means of guiding our political model-building efforts. 1. Introduction While the world of palatial Crete has no foundational story as powerful or as enduring as the Trojan war, the Classical tradition nonetheless invokes the Cretan palatial past in conveniently clear-cut ways, referring to a central mythical figure of King Minos alongside stories of political unification, law- giving, overseas expansion, thalassocracy, internecine struggle and eventual political re-fragmentation (e.g. Homer Odyssey 19.165-202; Herodotus Histories 1.171-3, 3.122; Thucydides Peloponnesian War 1.4-8; Aristotle Politics 2.10; also Pseudo-Apollodorus Bibliotheca 3.1-3). More precisely, such sources assume the development of a single state under a male king whose core political borders encompassed all of Crete and whose wider political control by indirect governance eventually extended to at least some of the Aegean islands.
    [Show full text]
  • Samaria - Hora Sfakion - Paleochora - Chania - Knossos 15 - 23 SEP 2018 (9 Días) V2470
    Creta Samaria - Hora Sfakion - Paleochora - Chania - Knossos 15 - 23 SEP 2018 (9 días) V2470 Tamaño del grupo: mediano (6 - 10 pax) Creta, una Isla entre Europa y África. La isla más grande de Grecia separa el mar Egeo del mar de Libia, marcando la frontera entre Europa y Africa, situación estratégica que dio a la isla su mayor esplendor durante la llamada civilización minoica. Esta civilización pre-helenística construyó una zona de influencia marítima, basada en su poderosa armada, que alcanzó todo el Mar Egeo, la Grecia peninsular, Asia Menor, Sicilia, etc. con intensos contactos comerciales y culturales con Egipto. Durante esta época, Creta tuvo una agricultura y orfebrería avanzadas, grandes infraestructuras y un comercio extraordinario. Se construyeron palacios como los de Festos y Knosos. Después, tras estos siglos de brillo propio, Creta se diluye en el imperio helenístico y posteriormente en el romano. La salvaje costa suroeste. Las llanuras fértiles del norte de la isla contrastan con la abrupta costa sur, que acusa los efectos de siglos de terremotos –quizás también la causa de la abrupta caída de la civilización minoica - En la costa sur, las “Montañas Blancas” albergan alguno de los rincones naturales más espectaculares del mediterráneo, como el Desfiladero de Samaria, el mayor de Europa, o las gargantas de Imbros o Aradena. Nuestro viaje se centrará sobretodo en el suroeste de la isla, siguiendo parte de la impresionante ruta costera que recorre todo el litoral. A nuestro paso podremos disfrutar de acantilados, playas solitarias y pequeños pueblos llenos de encanto e historia a los que sólo se puede llegar caminando o en barco.
    [Show full text]
  • Crete in Spring 2018 Lead by Fiona Dunbar a Greentours Trip Report
    Crete in Spring 2018 Lead by Fiona Dunbar A Greentours Trip Report Friday 6th April Arrival After an early start at Gatwick, we arrived in Crete only a little late. Ian Hislop was on our flight, presumably on his way out to stay with his wife, author of such Cretan Aga sagas as ‘The Island’. Driving along, the countryside was markedly lush and green compared to some years. The Robinia pseudoacacia was dripping in white blossom, the Judas trees with pink. There were acres of yellow, and yellow and white, Chrysanthemum coronarium. We enjoyed a welcome but late lunch at a taverna in the village of Armeni instead. The saganaki or fried cheese was made with the cooks’ own freshly prepared, mild goats cheese. The garden centre next door was quite a pull, too! As we gained altitude we looked out over hills covered with fig, gorse, Quercus pubescens, Asphodeline aestivus and almost fluorescing lime green Giant Fennel, in between the groves of olives and small fields. Having been greeted by Herakles in Spili with glasses of cold water and quince in honey, we settled into our rooms. Some walked down the track below. There was a fine stand of tall purple broomrapes on the nasturtiums in Heracles garden. We reconvened in the breakfast room and strolled over the road to Costas and Maria’s taverna, almost hidden by trailing vines and flowers. Most of us tried the rabbit in lemon sauce – tender and tasty. It was Good Friday, and as I headed to bed I could hear a Scops Owl calling.
    [Show full text]
  • Crete 6 Contents
    ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Crete Hania p54 Rethymno p104 Iraklio p143 Lasithi p188 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Alexis Averbuck, Kate Armstrong, Korina Miller, Richard Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Crete . 4 HANIA . 54 Argyroupoli . 117 Crete Map . 6 Hania . 56 The Hinterland & Mt Psiloritis . .. 119 Crete’s Top 15 . 8 East of Hania . 69 Moni Arkadiou . 119 Akrotiri Peninsula . 69 Need to Know . 16 Eleftherna . 121 Aptera . 71 First Time Crete . 18 Margarites . 121 Armenoi & Around . 71 Perama to Anogia . 122 If You Like… . 20 Almyrida . 71 Anogia . 123 Month by Month . 22 Vamos . 72 Mt Psiloritis . 124 Itineraries . 24 Gavalohori . 72 Coast to Coast . 125 Outdoor Activities . 32 Georgioupoli . 73 Armeni . 125 Lake Kournas . 73 Eat & Drink Spili . 125 Like a Local . 41 Vryses . 74 Southern Coast . 126 Travel with Children . 49 Southwest Coast & Sfakia . 74 Plakias . 127 Regions at a Glance . .. 51 Askyfou . 75 Preveli . 130 Imbros Gorge . 75 Beaches Between Plakias & Agia Galini . 131 Frangokastello . 76 Agia Galini . 132 CREATAS IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / IMAGES CREATAS Hora Sfakion . 77 Northeastern Coast . 133 Loutro . 79 Panormo . 133 Agia Roumeli . 80 Bali . 135 Sougia . 81 Lissos . 83 Paleohora . 83 IRAKLIO . 143 Elafonisi . 88 Iraklio . 146 Hrysoskalitissas . 88 Around Iraklio . 157 Gavdos Island . 89 Knossos . 157 Lefka Ori West of Iraklio . 162 VENETIAN HARBOUR, & Samaria Gorge . 91 Agia Pelagia . 162 RETHYMNO P107 Hania to Omalos . 91 Fodele . 162 Omalos . 92 Arolithos . 162 Samaria Gorge . 94 Central Iraklio . 163 ALAN BENSON / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / BENSON ALAN Northwest Coast . 95 Arhanes & Around . 163 Innahorion Villages .
    [Show full text]
  • PATRICK LEIGH FERMOR to GREECE with LOVE Friday 26 – Saturday 27 January 2018 Room 23.0.50
    PATRICK LEIGH FERMOR TO GREECE WITH LOVE Friday 26 – Saturday 27 January 2018 Room 23.0.50 university of copenhagen department of cross-cultural and regional studies Illustrations: Front: Patrick Leigh Fermor in traditional Cretan dress. Courtesy of the Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive, National Library of Scotland. Page 4 left: The only photograph of Patrick Leigh Fermor during his walk from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople. Reproduced by kind permission of the Estate of Patrick Leigh Fermor. Page 4 right: Patrick Leigh Fermor in Cairo at the end of the war. Courtesy of the Pat- rick Leigh Fermor Archive, National Library of Scotland. Page 7: Painting by Adrian Daintrey of Patrick Leigh Fermor in Cretan costume, painted in Cairo c.1943. Reproduced by kind permission of the Marques de Tamaron. Page 9: John Craxton’s dustjackets for Patrick Leigh Fermor’s books Mani and Roumeli. Reproduced by kind permission of John Murray Publishers. Page 10: Patrick Leigh Fermor with Lela Yanakea in Lela’s Tavern in Kardamyli. Repro- duced by kind permission of the photographer, Miles Fenton. Back: View from the entrance of Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor’s house in Kardamyli. Reproduced by kind permission of the photographer, Artemis Cooper. 2 DEPARTMENT OF CROSS-CULTURAL AND REGIONAL STUDIES FRIDAY 26 JANUARY 2.00-2.15pm Welcome 2.15-3.15pm Artemis Cooper (Biographer of Patrick Leigh Fermor) Road Block: Why Patrick Leigh Fermor’s ‘Time of Gifts’ Trilogy took so long to write At the age of nineteen in 1934 Patrick Leigh Fermor completed his walk from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople.
    [Show full text]