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SWAZILAND Worth Lingeringhere Ifyoucan © Lonely Planet Publications 1038 lonelyplanet.com SWAZILAND •• Highlights 1039 HIGHLIGHTS HOW MUCH? Swaziland Mkhaya Game Reserve ( p1046 ) Spot black rhinos in the wild, one of Africa’s great Traditional dance/cultural group wildlife experiences. US$6.50 Ezulwini and Malkerns Valleys ( p1044 ) Revel in a royal experience in the regal heart- Internet US$4.50 per hour land of Swaziland and splurge on some Coffee US$0.80 to US$1.70 handicrafts. Embedded between Mozambique and South Africa, the kingdom of Swaziland is one of the Batik hanging US$8 Usutu River ( p1046 ) Shoot the rapids or Basket US$5 smallest countries in Africa. What the country lacks in size, it makes up for in its rich culture drift down the river through stunning and heritage, and relaxed ambience. With its laid-back, warm and personable people and rela- gorges on a novel white-water rafting trip. LONELY PLANET INDEX tive lack of racial animosities, it’s a complete change of pace from its larger neighbours. SWAZILAND Malolotja Nature Reserve ( p1048 ) Trek in 1L petrol US$0.80 Visitors can enjoy rewarding and delightfully low-key wildlife watching, stunning mountain this tantalising reserve, a genuine, un- panoramas, adrenaline-boosting activities and lively traditions. Swaziland also boasts superb spoiled wilderness. 1L bottled water US$0.80 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ( p1044 ) Wan- walking and high-quality handicrafts. Bottle of beer US$1.10 to US$1.50 SWAZILAND der through the peaceful wilderness and relax in its comfortable bargain lodges. Souvenir T-shirt US$11 Overseeing the kingdom is King Mswati III, one of three remaining monarchs in Africa. The Barbecued maize US$0.40 monarchy has its critics, but combined with the Swazis’ distinguished history of resistance CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO to the Boers, the British and the Zulus, it has fostered a strong sense of national pride, and Summer sees torrential thunderstorms, es- local culture is flourishing. This is exemplified in its national festivals: the Incwala ceremony pecially in the western mountains, and tem- some action: hike in the Ngwempisi and the Umhlanga (Reed) dance. peratures on the lowveld are very hot, often Gorge ( p1045 ) and shoot the rapids on over 40°C; in the high country the tempera- the Usutu ( p1046 ). If Swaziland is in The excellent road system makes Swaziland easy to access and navigate. Accommoda- tures are lower and in winter it can get cool. your month trip through South Africa, tion includes a decent network of hostels, family-friendly hotels and upscale retreats. Many Winter nights on the lowveld are sometimes it’s well worth diverting here. very cold. travellers make a flying visit on their way to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, but it’s well Try to avoid visiting rain-soaked Swaziland HISTORY worth lingering here if you can. during the rainy season (December to April). In eastern Swaziland archaeologists have dis- The best time to visit is in May–June or Octo- covered human remains dating back 110,000 ber, but bring something warm. years, but the ancestors of the modern Swazi people arrived relatively recently. ITINERARIES During the great Bantu migrations into One Week A half-day in Mbabane ( p1042 ) southern Africa, one group, the Nguni, is plenty to get your bearings. Spend two moved down the east coast. A clan settled FAST FACTS days poking around the pretty Ezulwini near what is now Maputo in Mozambique, and Malkerns Valleys ( p1044 ), including and a dynasty was founded by the Dlamini Area 17,365 sq km Lobamba ( p1044 ), and make a trip into family. In the mid-18th century increasing ATMs Only in Mbabane the relaxing Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary pressure from other Nguni clans forced Borders South Africa, Mozambique ( p1044 ). If you have time and you want King Ngwane III to lead his people south to to see rare black rhinos in the wild, con- lands by the Pongola River, in what is now Budget US$25 to US$55 a day tinue east to the stunning Mkhaya Game southern Swaziland. Today, Swazis consider Capital Mbabane Reserve ( p1046 ). Ngwane III to have been the first king of Languages English, Swati Two Weeks Do the one-week itinerary, plus Swaziland. view wildlife at the extensive Hlane Royal The next king, Sobhuza I, withdrew under Money Lilangeni (E); US$1 = E7.4 National Park ( p1046 ) and Mlawula Na- pressure from the Zulus to the Ezulwini Val- Population 1.1 million ture Reserve ( p1046 ). On your circular ley, which today remains the centre of Swazi Seasons Rainy (December to April), winter (May to August), route back to Mbabane, drop into Piggs royalty and ritual. When King Sobhuza I died drier and cool (September to November) Peak ( p1047 ), an area known for its in 1839, Swaziland was twice its present size. handicrafts, and take a detour to hike Trouble with the Zulu continued, although % % Telephone Country code 268; international code 00 in Malolotja Nature Reserve ( p1048 ), an the next king, Mswazi (or Mswati), managed Time GMT/UTC + 2 unspoiled wilderness area. to unify the whole kingdom. By the time he Visa Not required for most nationalities One Month You can absorb most of Swa- died in 1868, the Swazi nation was secure. ziland in this time. Join the above two Mswazi’s subjects called themselves people of itineraries and take extra time out for Mswazi, or Swazis, and the name stuck. 1040 SWAZILAND lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SWAZILAND •• Culture 1041 0 30 km European Interference include sexual intercourse, which was banned, SWAZILAND 0 20 miles The arrival of increasing numbers of Euro- punishable by flogging. To Nelspruit To Malelane To Malelane Komatipoort (8km) (22km) (10km) peans from the mid-19th century brought new Choosing a successor wasn’t easy – Sobhuza problems. Mswazi’s successor, Mbandzeni, had fathered more than 600 children, thereby R570 inherited a kingdom rife with European car- creating hundreds of potential kings. Prince R 38 petbaggers – hunters, traders, missionaries Makhosetive, born in 1968, was finally chosen LEGEND GR Game Reserve and farmers, many of whom leased large ex- and crowned King Mswati III in 1986. Bothasnek R Jeppe's Reef NP National Park 38 Hhohho Matsamo NR Nature Reserve panses of land. Barberton r e WS Wildlife Sanctuary v i The Pretoria Convention of 1881 guar- Swaziland Today R R Ngonini 40 Nelshoogte Pass ti a anteed Swaziland’s ‘independence’ but also The king continues to represent and maintain Makonjwam lu MR1 Herefords To Badplaas M (25km) R571 defined its borders, and Swaziland lost large the traditional way of life and to assert his Saddleback Pass M O Z A M B I Q U E Phophonyane Falls chunks of territory. ‘Independence’ in fact pre-eminence, for better and often for worse, To Maputo (50km) SWAZILAND Josefsdal Sihhoya Bulembu Mananga meant that both the British and the Boers had as absolute monarch. Following his predeces- ὈὈMgwayiza Piggs 2 responsibility for administering their vari- sor’s style, Mswati dissolved parliament in Range Peak Sand Namaacha River Maguga Dam Tshaneni Lomahasha ous interests in Swaziland, and the result was 1992 and Swaziland was again governed by a M13 Reservoir MPUMALANGA Komati Mhlume chaos. The Boer administration collapsed with traditional tribal assembly, the Liqoqo. Since (SOUTH AFRICA) Malolotja River SWAZILAND Bholekane NR Phinduvuke the 1899–1902 Anglo-Boer War, and after- then, democratic reform has begun with the N Mnjoli Tambankulu wards the British took control of Swaziland drafting – albeit restrictive – of a constitu- 17 Enkhaba Dam Shewula Forbes Reef Maphiveni 2 To Johannesburg r as a protectorate. tion. Despite the increasing agitation for e Mbuluzi (via Carolina & Ngwenya v Hawane NR i GR Middelburg) ὈὈὈOshoek R ὈὈὈ During this troubled time, King Sobhuza II faster change, even many reformers propose (335km) Hawane Dam Simunye Motjane was only a young child, but Labotsibeni, his a constitutional king in a democratic system Mliba Mlawula NR Mbuluz Lu i River Hlane Royal Goba sus Mhlumeni mother, acted ably as regent until her son took of government. hw MR5 NP a MBABANE e na n Waverley R a over in 1921. Labotsibeni encouraged Swazis Currently, Swaziland’s greatest challenge i Luve z Lundzi v lu er Ezulwini bu to buy back their land, and many sought work comes from the HIV/AIDS pandemic; the Luphohlo Dam M MR7 Mantenga Mpisi Ezulwini L E in the Witwatersrand mines (near Johannes- country has the world’s highest HIV infection NR Mhlambanyatsi Valley Mpaka Lonhlupheko Lobamba MR3 burg) to raise money. rate (almost 39% for adults between 15 and 49 ὈὈMlilwane Mafutseni ὈὈὈB O M B O WS MR3 Manzini ni Siteki years of age), and life expectancy has fallen as uti River Mahlanya Hhelehhele b Bhunya Matsapha Tim Independence a result from 58 to 33 years. It’s estimated that Sandlane MR18 Malkerns Matsapha Loyengo Airport MR8 Usutu In 1960 King Sobhuza II proposed the crea- there are currently more than 70,000 AIDS Nerston Valley MR19 MR16 Usutu Mkhaya Nyetane tion of a legislative council, composed of orphans in the country, and by 2010 one out a Dam M MR4 ng GR lu u ge O elected Europeans, and a national council of six people will be a child under 15 who has Sidvokodvo B or River G Sifunga U formed in accordance with Swazi culture. lost both parents. Mankayane pis Dam wem i iver N ὈὈNg R ὈὈLu s utfu Phuzumoya T The Mbokodvo (Grindstone) National River Siphofaneni Ngwempisi Gorge A Movement, which was formed at this time, CULTURE Hendick I a y van Eck Dam sh N at le pledged to maintain traditional Swazi cul- Swazis have an extremely strong sense of iden- Mgazini ng l Mkondvo River a a S hl V SWAZILAND a MR9 Big Bend ture but also to eschew racial discrimination.
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