SWAZILAND Worth Lingeringhere Ifyoucan

SWAZILAND worth lingeringhere ifyoucan. worth travellers aflyingvisitontheirwaytoSouthAfrica’s make KrugerNationalPark, butit’swell tion includesadecentnetworkofhostels, family-friendly hotels andupscaleretreats. Many and theUmhlanga(Reed)dance. local culture isflourishing. This isexemplified inits nationalfestivals: theIncwalaceremony to theBoers,BritishandZulus, ithasfostered astrongsenseofnationalpride,and monarchy hasitscritics,butcombinedwiththeSwazis’distinguished historyofresistance andhigh-qualityhandicrafts. walking andlively activities panoramas, adrenaline-boosting traditions. Swaziland alsoboastssuperb tive lackofracialanimosities,it’sacomplete changeofpacefromitslarger neighbours. and heritage,relaxed ambience. Withitslaid-back,warmandpersonablepeople rela- smallest countriesinAfrica. Whatthecountrylacksinsize, upforinitsrichculture it makes Embedded betweenMozambique ofSwaziland isoneofthe andSouthAfrica, thekingdom Swaziland 1038 © LonelyPlanetPublications The excellentroadsystem Swazilandeasytoaccess and navigate. makes Accommoda- MswatiIII,oneofthree isKing remainingOverseeing thekingdom monarchsinAfrica. The Visitors canenjoyrewarding wildlife anddelightfullylow-key watching,stunningmountain

FAST FACTS

Visa Time Telephone drier andcool(September toNovember) Seasons Population Money Languages Capital Budget Borders ATMs Area Notrequired for mostnationalities 17,365sqkm GMT/UTC +2 OnlyinMbabane Lilangeni(E);US$1 =E7.4 Mbabane US$25toUS$55aday SouthAfrica, Mozambique Rainy (DecembertoApril),winter Rainy (MaytoAugust), Countrycode English,Swati 1.1million % 268; international code % 00

Summer sees torrentialSummer sees thunderstorms, es- CLIMATE &WHENTOGO lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES ber, butbringsomethingwarm. The besttimetovisitisinMay–June orOcto- (DecembertoApril). during therainyseason very cold. onthelowveldWinter nights are sometimes tures are lowerandinwinter itcanget cool. over countrythetempera- 40°C;inthehigh peratures onthelowveld are very hot,often pecially inthewestern andtem- mountains, HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Reserve ( Reserve p1046 ). Game to thestunningMkhaya tinue east rare blackrhinosinthewild,con- to see ( p1044 ). Ifyouhave timeandyouwant the relaxing MlilwaneWildlife Sanctuary Lobamba ( p1044 ), andmake atripinto and Malkerns Valleys ( p1044 ), including days pokingaroundthepretty Ezulwini is plentytoget yourbearings.Spendtwo relax bargain initscomfortable lodges. thepeacefulwildernessand der through Sanctuary Mlilwane Wildlife spoiled wilderness. agenuine, un- reserve, this tantalising Reserve Nature Malolotja Usutu River handicrafts. land of Swazilandandsplurge onsome in aroyalexperiencetheregal heart- Valleys Ezulwini andMalkerns Reserve Game Mkhaya itineraries and take extra time outfor ziland inthis time. Join the above two One Month unspoiled wildernessarea. in Malolotja ( Nature Reserve p1048 ), an handicrafts, and take adetour to hike Peak ( p1047 route backtoMbabane, dropintoPiggs ), anarea knownforits ( ture Reserve p1046 ). Onyour circular National Park ( p1046 ) andMlawulaNa- view wildlife attheextensive HlaneRoyal Two Weeks One Week trip. gorges onanovel white-water rafting drift downtheriver stunning through wildlife experiences. rhinos inthewild,oneof Africa’sgreat Try toavoid visitingrain-soaked Swaziland

A Do the one-week itinerary,plus Do theone-week You can absorbmostof Swa- ( p1046 ) Shoot therapidsor

half-day inMbabane ( half-day p1042 ) SWAZILAND •• Highlights SWAZILAND••Highlights ( p1046 ) Spotblack ( p1048 ) Trek in 14 Wan- (p1044) ( p1044 ) Revel ley, which todayremains thecentre of Swazi pressure fromtheZulustoEzulwini Val- Swaziland. Ngwane IIItohave thefirst been kingof southern Swaziland.Today,Swazis consider lands bythePongolaRiver, inwhatisnow King NgwaneIIItoleadhispeople southto pressure fromother Nguniclansforced family. Inthemid-18thcenturyincreasing and adynastywasfoundedbythe Dlamini near whatisnowMaputo inMozambique, moved down theeastcoast.Aclansettled southern Africa,onegroup,the Nguni, people arrived relatively recently. years, buttheancestors of themodernSwazi covered humanremains datingback110,000 In eastern Swazilandarchaeologists have dis- HISTORY Mswazi, orSwazis, and thename stuck. Mswazi’s subjects called themselves peopleof died in1868, theSwazination wassecure. to unify the wholekingdom. Bythetimehe the next king, Mswazi(or Mswati), managed Trouble withthe Zulucontinued,although in 1839,Swaziland wastwiceitspresent size. royalty andritual. WhenKingSobhuza Idied it’s wellworthdiverting here. SouthAfrica, your monthtripthrough the Usutu ( p1046 ). IfSwazilandisin Gorge ( p1045 ) andshoottherapidson some action:hike intheNgwempisi During thegreat migrationsinto Bantu The nextking,Sobhuza I,withdrew under

LONELY INDEX PLANET MUCH? HOW

Barbecued maize Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofbeer 1L bottledwater 1L petrol Basket Batik hanging Coffee Internet US$6.50 Traditional dance/culturalgroup US$0.80toUS$1.70 US$5 US$4.50 perhour US$0.80 US$1.10toUS$1.50 US$8 US$11 US$0.80 US$0.40

1039 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND 1040 (25km) To Badplaas (335km) Middelburg) (via Carolina& To Johannesburg SWAZILAND Bothasnek Emahlathini Waverley Paulpietersburg Nerston Piet Retief (SOUTH AFRICA) Nelshoogte Pass Sandlane MPUMALANGA SWAZILAND Bothashoop 17 N 33 R ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Luphohlo Dam Mhlambanyatsi Lundzi MR19 Sicunusa Oshoek

Biva R Mankayane Mahamba L

Mgazini

Saddleback Pass u

s ne

h w

Gege

Bhunya a

n Ngwenya

MR18 a

Josefsdal o

River l

To Nelspruit

z N i Mlilwane 2

v Malolotja

r Motjane (8km)

e M N Loyengo Ngwempisi Gorge

Nhlangano Barberton R Mantenga

g R

v a WS e w r h e MR4 NR Forbes Reef l m Mgwayiza Hawane Dam a Hawane NR

Mahlanya n p Range KWAZULU-NATAL

(SOUTH AFRICA) i

g MBABANE

Bulembu s

a Ezulwini i Enkhaba MR9 t Malkerns s

h Valley Lobamba G a R ra i v Maguga Dam

n Valley Ezulwini

d e 38

R r Piggs Va Peak MR3 Hlathikulu l

l Matsapha ey Makonjwa MR26 Mhlosheni Mkondvo River Sidvokodvo Airport Matsapha MR9 M

M Phophonyane Falls l Manzini u

Komati m

u Mhlosheni a

Hhohho SWAZILAND l

u t

MR1 i

Pongola MR11 N M13 z

ὈὈ R

g ive Mafutseni

w r

R To Malelane Luve

Ngonini

v v

(22km)

L u

Onverwacht m u

Hhelehhele s

River a u t Matsamo

Sihultse M

f Jeppe's Reef MR5 h u

l B Herefords Salitje R a

t u Mliba

Mpisi R

i h l M R

v u G u ive i

e z o n r

v b e r R570

r e g g u (Pongola) Phongolo

r a l 66

e u Bholekane R R Sithobela T z i a Siphofaneni v MR8 i n e m e

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Maloma r Dam Usutu b River Reservoir MR3 u Sihhoya

River

t Sand S River i ὈὈ ὈὈ ti i l Mkhaya n o WS NR NP GR LEGEND River i GR Mpaka Wildlife Sanctuary Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve Phuzumoya To Malelane 20miles 30km 0 0 (10km) Tshaneni Mananga Lubuli R571 Big Bend N Hlane Royal 2 Usutu Golela Mhlume Lavumisa MR16 River MR8 Lonhlupheko NP Komatipoort Pongolapoort Tambankulu Simunye Lomahasha

Nyetane

van Eck Dam Nsoko Ὀ Ὀ

Dam Dam

Hendick lonelyplanet.com To Durban (375km) MR7 Siteki

Sifunga Mhlumeni

Dam Mlawula NR Jozini

To Maputo(50km) Lusutfu

Maphiveni

Phinduvuke L E L

B O M B O B M O B M O Z A M B I Q U E

Namaacha GR Mbuluzi

Shewula

M S

N O U I N T A 2

Goba River 2 the workof theBritish.In1973king was only a young child, but Labotsibeni, his was onlyayoungchild, butLabotsibeni, as aprotectorate. wards theBritishtookcontrolof Swaziland War,andafter-the 1899–1902Anglo-Boer with chaos. administrationcollapsed TheBoer ous interests inSwaziland,andtheresult was responsibility foradministering theirvari- had meant thatboththeBritishandBoers chunks of territory. ‘Independence’infact defined itsborders, andSwazilandlostlarge Swaziland’s‘independence’butalso anteed ofpanses land. and farmers, manyof large whomleased ex- petbaggers –hunters, traders, missionaries inherited akingdomrife withEuropeancar- problems. Mswazi’ssuccessor,Mbandzeni, new peans fromthemid-19thcenturybrought The arrivalof increasing numbers of Euro- Interference European lonelyplanet.com of the nationwas allowed. And thatdidn’t wives. to thelife Only commerce essential She-Elephant), of the mostsenior hishundred mourning wasannounced byDzeliwe(Great tradition, astrictlyenforced 75-dayperiod of monarch, diedin1982.Inkeeping withSwazi II, atthattimethe world’slongest-reigning that vested allpower intheking.Sobhuza ment reconvened undera newconstitution all politicalparties. Fouryears later the parlia- accord withSwazi culture. He alsodissolved suspended iton the groundsthatitdidnot tember 1968. Swaziland becameindependenton 6Sep- the nextelectionsin1967,wonall theseats. in 1964,Mbokodvowonamajority and,at When theBritishfinallyagreed toelections ture butalsoto eschew racialdiscrimination. pledged traditionalSwazi cul- tomaintain Movement, which wasformed atthistime, The Mbokodvo(Grindstone) National formed inaccordancewithSwazi culture. elected Europeans,andanationalcouncil tion of a legislative of council,composed thecrea-In 1960KingSobhuza IIproposed Independence burg) money. toraise in theWitwatersrand mines(nearJohannes- work to buybacktheirland,andmanysought over encouraged Swazis in1921.Labotsibeni mother, acted ably asregent untilhersontook During thistroubledtime,KingSobhuzaII The Pretoria Convention of 1881guar- The country’sconstitutionwas largely SWAZILAND••Culture satisfaction withthelackofsatisfaction progress intheir thereany kind.Although iswidespread dis- and religious Swazisdislike embarrassment of and nation. clans whileemphasisingloyaltyto theking the potentially divisive differences between regiment astheygrowolder. Thisminimises regiments. Boysgraduate fromregiment to byasystemmaintained of age-related royal tity andpride. Socialandculturalcohesion is Swazis have of anextremely iden- strongsense CULTURE lost bothparents. of sixpeoplewillbeachild under15whohas orphans inthecountry,andby2010 oneout there are currently more than70,000 AIDS a result from58to33years. It’sestimated that years of age), andlife hasfallenas expectancy rate 15 and49 (almost39%foradultsbetween HIVinfectioncountry hastheworld’shighest comes fromtheHIV/AIDSpandemic; of government. a constitutionalkingindemocraticsystem faster change, manyreformers even propose tion. Despite theincreasing for agitation drafting –albeitrestrictive –of aconstitu- then, democraticreform hasbegunwiththe theLiqoqo.traditional tribalassembly, Since 1992 andSwazilandwasagaingoverned bya sor’s style,Mswatidissolved parliamentin as absolute monarch. Followinghispredeces- pre-eminence, forbetter andoften forworse, the traditionalwayof life his andtoassert The kingcontinuestorepresent and maintain Swaziland Today and crownedKingMswatiIIIin1986. Makhosetive, bornin 1968,wasfinallychosen creating hundreds of potential kings.Prince had fathered more than600children, thereby punishable byflogging. intercourse,include sexual which wasbanned, of theSwazi themselves. interpreted asa lack of respect for theidentity regardedhighly –disrespect for himcanbe the Swazi familyand,assuch, heisgenerally the king, herepresents thesymbolic headof controversytices. Despite constant around andculturalprac- political andsocial affairs tend todislike outsiders meddling ininternal country’s current climate, they socioeconomic Currently, Swaziland’sgreatest challenge Choosing asuccessorwasn’teasy–Sobhuza The nonconfrontational, good-humouredThe nonconfrontational,

1041 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND ENVIRONMENT by males. danceperformed a vigorousfoot-stamping Swazi culturalfestivals. TheSibhacadanceis ranging frombowlstoknobkerries. and matsare popular,asare woodenitems, wares such as tery, weaponsandimplements.Woven grass- Swaziland’s handicraftsincludejewellery,pot- &CRAFTS ARTS followings, also. andJewishMuslims, Bahai faiths have small cans andMethodists makingupthebalance. Angli- enous worship, withRomanCatholics, a mixof Christianityandtraditionalindig- share of themallover the country. yourfair equivalent toSmith,andyou’llmeet dominant clanistheDlamini–it’skindof Zulu, Tsonga-Shangaan andEuropean.The are about70distinctgroups).Therest are Almost allpeopleare there Swazi(although PEOPLE epidemic. particularlyduetotheHIV/AIDS stances, of attendance decreasing duetosocialcircum- tional homestead arrangements. in thetraditionalbeehive hutsinthetradi- but permittingdivorce. marriage conventions, rejecting polygamy, manySwazisalsofollowWesternalthough for thehusbandtotake anumberof wives, Traditionalmarriagealways practised. allows polygamy ispermitted andexiststhisisnot family isintegral toaperson’s life. While 1042 nants of indigenous flora (including 14% of the rem-areas preserve for hunting; these likely some sources. Themonarchy reserved with Mozambique. formtheborder harsh Mountains Lebombo cane dominate thelandscape. Furthereast,the country are plains,where of plantations sugar thecentresharp mountains; and eastof the land ishighveld, consistingmainly of short, savannah scrubinthe east.Western Swazi- zones, fromrainforest inthenorthwestto Swaziland hasawiderange of ecological Conservation cancome fromthemostun- Conservation Dance andmusicisanintegral partof Many peopleinruralareas continuetolive As inotherpartsof Africa,theextended Around 70%of thepopulationisZionist, Schooling isnotcompulsory,withtherate BBN • Oinain MBABANE ••Orientation liqhaga (grassware ‘bottles’) to 1pm Sat) On the edge of Swazi Plaza. Offers a selection aselection to 1pm Sat)Onthe edgeofSwazi Plaza. Offers etoswaziland.com; informationoffice Tourist Standard Bank Post office Nedbank Mbabane Clinic First NationalBank town, includingThe Mall. Internet access isavailable inafew places in INFORMATION on PlazaMall St. tor Rd.TheMall, anothershoppingarea, is good range of Western shops,isoff Distribu- anda shopping centre withmostservices is GwamileSt.SwaziPlaza,alarge, modern Mbabane isalittledisjointed. Themainstreet ORIENTATION Valleys have plentyof attractions. 1902. TheadjacentEzulwiniand Malkerns ish moved their administrative centre here in cooler thanManzini, which iswhytheBrit- Mbabane istheplacetobe:hills make it Dlangeni Hillsispicturesque, andinsummer ordohere.much amidthe tosee Itssetting relaxingscript, although place;there isn’tthat (mba- Mbabane pop 60,000 MBABANE (also knownas areas, such asstew Africanstaples andpap Inmorenational dishes andseafood. remote kerns andEzulwiniValleys feature goodinter- won’t eatbadlyhere. Touristareas of theMal- butyou Swaziland isn’tagourmet’sparadise, FOOD &DRINK natural medicines. loss of indigenous for certain plantssought of cattle,soilerosion,illegalhuntingandthe m arine-mammal speciesinsouthernAfrica. fall underthebannerof ‘BigGameParks’). (these GameReserve Sanctuary andMkhaya Hlane RoyalNationalPark, MlilwaneWildlife warthogs, rhinosandlions)inparkssuch as reintroduced animals(includingelephants, the recorded plantlife insouthernAfrica)and services. services. Swaziland hasaboutathirdof thenon- Environmental issuesincludeovergrazingEnvironmental (SwaziPlaza)Changescash andtravellerscheques. (Msundusa St) (SwaziPlaza) Hasa24-hourATM. ( h % mealie meal baa (MsundusaSt) 9am-4.45pm Mon-Thu, to4pmFri, 404 2423; St Michael’s Rd) Medical Rd)Medical 404 2423;StMichael’s -nay) isapretty nonde- ( % 404 2531;www.welcom ) are common. lonelyplanet.com offers arange of hikingandculturaltours, ing only.Ithasexcellentfacilitiesandalso town centre isapopularhang-out.Self-cater- of withinwalkingdistance the house, scruffy shared bathroomUS$23) .com; EndSt;campsitesperpersonUS$6,dmUS$10,dwith out of thedowntownarea. Good-value placestocrashtend tobeslightly SLEEPING are ontheincrease. the streets duringtheday–muggings even walk aroundbyyourself. Take precautions in sodon’t Mbabane isbecomingunsafe atnight, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES paraphernalia. Trails intheEzulwiniValley (see p1044 ) stockstourist Bible of free publicationsandbrochures includingthetourist Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com clean and monastic-style rooms might convertclean andmonastic-styleroomsmight US$26/29, withshared bathroomUS$17/22) holes). including tours of local (300m) Grifters To Post (22km) To OshoekBorder 1 3 2 MBABANE ὈὈ ὈὈ Grifters Grifters Thokoza ChurchCentre Thokoza

What’s HappeninginSwaziland Micho

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M andela shebeens Plaza Mall St 404 6681;PolinjaneRd;s/d Arms (27km) To Foresters Smuts St ? Alternatively,Swazi

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Dr Sishavi Rd To Cathmar Cottages (3km) Swazi Plaza 11 These small, These 5

Usutu Rd MBABANE••Dangers&Annoyances

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West Gwamile St Gwamile

Kapola GuestHouse (4km); To MountainInn (1.5km); Rd Matsapha Airport (38km); 1 8 Ezulwini Valley (18km);

Post 9 10 Manzini (41km) Market

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Msundusa St

Mhlonhlo St St Dzeliwe

Zwide St Zwide

open forallmeals(mainsfromUS$6). andgreatstains panoramas.Therestaurant is incl breakfast fromUS$72/92; Mhlambanyatsi. southwest of Mbabaneinthehillsaround a smorgasbord of activities.Situated 27km British-style roomsandattractive gardensplus s&dwithhalfboardfromUS$61) .za; the wallpainted withflags. from Mbabane justoff theMR3;watch for chef US$3toUS$5).Five (meals kilometres with massive porch, busyroomsandàlacarte .co.sz; s/dinclbreakfast US$54/89) Pine Valley Rd). cabins, about 3.5kmnorthof Mbabane(off cottages anddolls-house-style self-catering St;rfromUS$27-44; .com/cathmar; 167Lukhalo Swazi Plaza). Polinjane Rd.Take (US$3from atnight a taxi andheadup turn leftatthepolicestation St, turnontoMhlonhlocrossthebridge, you toMbabane. Toget here fromGwamile Polinjane

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EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Finesse...... (see 2) Thokoza ChurchCentre...... Tourist InformationOffice...... Standard Bank&ATM...... (see5) South AfricanHighCommission...(see2) Post Office...... Nedbank...... (see 5) Mbabane Clinic...... Internet Centre...... (see5) Internet Centre...... First NationalBank...... Nonshared TaxiRank...... (see 11) Bus Station...... (see 11) Bus &Minibus TaxiRank...... Spar...... (see 2) Shoprite...... (see 5) Plaza TandooriRestaurant...... (see 5) Mediterranean Restaurant...... La Casserole...... Indingilizi Gallery&Restaurant...... SEbsy...... C2 US Embassy...... TRANSPORT ( %

0.2miles 300m 0 0 404 2781;www.mountaininn.sz;s/d ( %

( 467 4177;www.forestersarms.co % ais 404 3387;www.swazilodgings 404 0906;www.kapola_eden A comfortable abodeA comfortable Offers cosyoh-so ) Has colonial D s ) 11 10 Offers Offers 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

1043 C1 B2 C2 A3 A2 B2 B2 B1 B1 B1 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND [email protected]; 112DzeliweSt;snacksfromUS$3; from US$20. Matsapha International Airport,expecttopay (from US$14),andstillmore To atnight. least US$7,more tothefarendof thevalley shared totheEzulwiniValley taxis costat valley’s minorandmore scenicroutes. Non- tothe thevalley,asopposed road through most take themain –andnewerbypass theEzulwini Valley, through passes although cle headingtowardsManzini orMatsapha Peak(US$2) andPiggs (US$2).Anyvehi- land, includingManzini (US$1),BigBend todestinations withinSwazi- minibus taxis Swazi Plaza,where and you’llalsofindbuses bound) leave parknear fromtheminibustaxi toSouthAfrica(mostlynorth- Minibus taxis THERE&AWAY GETTING dishes. agoodrange andmeat of seafood serves & dinnerMon-Sat) morsels. and Portuguese mosphere isspicedupbyitsIndiancurries St; mainsUS$7-14; a touch of theinternational. value curries,theusualgrillsandburgers add mains US$5-12; h supermarkets atSwaziPlazaandTheMall. Gourmands are catered for,plusthere are EATING 1044 alty. Most of the area’s attractions are near 18km away– isthehomeland of Swazi roy- and extending downpast Lobambavillage, The Ezulwini Valley nearMbabane –starting VALLEYS EZULWINI &MALKERNS AROUND SWAZILAND one neartheCity Inn. by SwaziPlaza. youcanusuallyfind Atnight Nonshared congregate taxis nearthebusrank AROUND GETTING gallery-café serves snacks. gallery-café serves mains US$7-11; tions, andwines. a mixof international tastes, vegetarian op- Finesse Plaza Tandoori Restaurant &Restaurant Gallery Indingilizi La Casserole Restaurant La Casserole Mediterranean Restaurant Mediterranean 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, AROUND SWAZILAND •• Ezulwini & Malkerns Valleys AROUND SWAZILAND••Ezulwini&Malkerns ( % h h 404 5936; The Mall; mainsUS$10-14; 404 5936;TheMall; ThisfancyFrench-owned place h lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner)

( % ( %

Agoodstew with ( As wellasgreat- % 404 6426;GwamileSt; 404 7599;SwaziPlaza; The blandat- Thisoutdoor 404 3212,Gwamile

( % 404 6213; h lunch Big Game Parks office Big Game the Book the followingthrough WITHIN THE SANCTUARY Sleeping Manzini road. Happy Valley Motel ontheoldMbabane– mended (US$4.50 perperson per hour). walks (US$4.50per hour).Guidesare recom- biking(US$7)andwildlifehour), mountain and blackeagles warthogs, antelope species,crocodiles,hippos in thearea. Animalsincludezebras,giraffes, yane (LittleBird)peak,withsome fine walks terrain isdominated bytheprecipitous Nyon- iseasily accessible andworthavisit.Its reserve h ( This beautifulandtranquil MLILWANE WILDLIFESANCTUARY a small huza II,themostrevered of Swazikings,plus isamemorialtoKingSob- from themuseum is sometimesopentovisitors. Across theroad reception office; see ture Reserve opposite .) booking office isrunfromtheMantenga Na- Malolotja ishere. Nature (Note: the Reserves, .sntc.org.sz) National TrustCommissionoffice culture andatraditionalbeehive village. The h tivals &Events, p1049 ). ceremony andtheUmhlanga Royal Kraal themonarchy inactionatthe You cansee LOBAMBA Sights &Activities Valley. Trails crafts andisworthvisiting. Malkerns Valley isrenowned foritshandi- hotels Thenearby andotherdevelopment. ery, butit’sbecominglesspicturesque with Lobamba. It’sapretty valleywithlushgreen- 3943/4) ness of someof theSouth Africanparks,the servationist Ted Reilly. % Next to the museum isthe Next tothemuseum The Tourist informationisavailable from The mainentrance is2kmsoutheastof the Activities includehorserides(US$14 per While it doesn’t haveWhile itdoesn’t thedramaorvast- daily) 6am-5pm) 528 3943;www.biggameparks.org; admission US$2.50;

( % . hassomeinteresting displaysonSwazi museum National Museum , forinformationabout Mlawulaand 416 2180; Mantenga Craft Centre) Craft 416 2180;Mantenga in Lobamba duringtheIncwala wascreated inthe1950sbycon- Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com devoted tohim. devoted (Aquila verreauxii) (www.biggameparks.org;

(adult/child US$3/1.50; parliament

( dance (see Fes-dance (see % private reserve private 416 1151;www in Ezulwini Royal Swazi . , which % Swazi 528 and drinks in the beer garden. and drinks in thebeer abrisk localbusiness.Motel anddoes ney through Africa.ney through land’s better restaurants. of theMalandela complex andoneof Swazi- Malandela’s B&B Malandela’s OUTSIDE THESANCTUARY the maincamp.Agoodchoice forfamilies. son US$15) per person. per person ordormbedsincabinsforUS$11 bathroom US$21/33),campsites forUS$6.50 less beehive huts(s/dUS$31/44,withshared of shelters, includingtraditional,window- from theentrygate. Itboastsalarge selection in a scenicwoodedlocationabout 3.5km is set 3943/4; s/d2-personhutsUS$33/47) Hostels’. ‘RollsRoyceof Backpacker self-proclaimed room US$14/22,s/drondavelsUS$21/28) camp sitesperpersonUS$5.50,dmUS$8,s/dwithshared bath- Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h andSwiss cuisine.with German h & dinnerTue-Sun) shady veranda. national optionstobeenjoyedon alovely realnet.co.sz; mainsUS$5-17; mains US$4-9; Restaurant Malandela’s Eating &Drinking restaurant tenteddelightful styleandcanvascomfort. The incl breakfast US$43/65) sntc.org.sz; beehivehutsperpersonUS$9,s/dtentedchalets grassy grounds. in pleasant, of EzulwiniValley, cottages withself-catering moderately upscaleplace,atthewestern end .visitswazi.com; s/dinclbreakfast fromE400/500; rooms, apoolandsculpture garden. kerns Valley, thisoffers stylish,ethnicAfrican breakfast US$25; away inthegreat andfacilitiesatthe setting Ezulwini Sun sometimes has music, food Shonalanga Cottage (IYHF)Lodge Backpackers Sondzela Bella Vista Pizzeria Bella Vista Quatermain’s Reserve Nature Mantenga Calabash Continental Calabash Woodlands Restaurant Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary Main Camp Main Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary Timbali Lodge&CountryPark lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) A spacious self-catering cottage near Aspaciousself-catering

serves goodluncheon dishes. serves h s Mouth-watering culinaryjour- lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) NexttoTimbali Park, Caravan

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416 11/78;mantenga@ ( % Idleyourtime 416 2632;www

AROUNDSWAZILAND••NgwempisiGorge ( % as 528 3117;

h Inter- ( % Part lunch ) 528 A is excellent. Get thereis excellent.Get atdawnwhenthe rural h gings are common. becareful asmug- atdayand night pervades; easy-going ruralSwaziland.Ahintof menace large, butitfeels like adifferent countryfrom industrial centre. DowntownManzini isn’t Manzini isthecountry’scommercialand pop 70,000 MANZINI per day. portersalthough are available fromUS$2.50 must carryinyourownfoodand bedding, an additionalUS$1.50foreach hiker). You sory totake alocalguide(US$7perdayplus Mhlabeni Hutisbyawaterfall. Itiscompul- (dm US$13) Mankayane–Vlelzizweni road. run 33kmtrailintheNtfungulaHillson the NgwempisiHikingTrail,acommunity- River. Adventure seekers willbethrilledby beautiful naturalforests andthe Ngwempisi remaining untouched environmentswith Malkerns Valley isoneof thecountry’sfew This NGWEMPISI GORGE signposted. the MR103,fromwhere iswell everything thebypassroad.Thisputsyouon exit off Manzini, take theEzulwiniValley/Lobamba ate atnight. from MbabanecostatleastUS$7–negoti- aren’t keen onstopping.Nonshared taxis inthevalley.Evenoff somenonexpress buses make sure thedriver knowsyouwanttoget For theManzini-bound busfromMbabane, &Away There Getting space attheMalandela Complex. cally decorated culturalandentertainment the MR103 (behind Sundowner’s Bar). Iftheir the MR103 (behind Sundowner’s Bar). premises onthe edge of Malkerns Valley on best backpackers, hadjust moved toanew d withshared bathroom190R) campsites perperson45R;dm 90R; landbackpackers.com; Swaziland Backpackers this youcanhappily move on. people bringintheir handicrafts.Apartfrom The The atmosphericdouble-storey You’ll rave onFire, aboutHouse afantasti- If you’re drivingfromeitherMbabane or At thetimeof clean writing,theefficient, Mon-Sat) gorge market market isbuiltaroundmassive boulders and on Thursday and Fridaymornings

( % 625 6004) (cnr Mhlakuvane & Mancishane Sts; &Mancishane (cnr Mhlakuvane

( , 30kmsouthof the , oneof Swaziland’s % 528 2038;www.swazi Khopho Hut Khopho

1045 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND early inthemorning. Jo’burg, andMaputo inMozambique)leave (toSouthAfrica,including Durbanand taxis minibus the ‘old’KFC.Mostlong-distance Mozambique leave fromthecarparknextto for US$1.10(35minutes). to Minibustaxis runuptheEzulwiniValleyBuses toMbabane parkisatthenorthern endoftaxi LouwSt. around US$8.Themainbusand minibus pizza fromUS$3/4; Pizzeria Trevi andsomeOKcoffee, try stantial and NgwaneStor,forsomething more sub- priciest hotel. as Ngwane &duToitSts;s/dinclbreakfast fromUS$85/110; tour of Swaziland(230R). around. Itoffers activities,includingaday new site shouldalsobeoneof the bestoptions past backpackers are anythingtogoby,the 1046 and birdlife they support. beer-brewing properties, andfor theinsect mkhaya takes itsname fromthe black rhinos. Mkhaya elephants, andwhite and telopes, tsessebe, from extinction. Its focusexpandedtoan- in 1979tosave thepure Nguni breed of cattle the hamletof Phuzumoya –wasestablished parks.org) top-notch This MKHAYA RESERVE GAME A nonshared toMatsapha taxi airportcosts aboundinBhunuFor food,takeaways Mall Hotel Tum’s George two) includinglunchandallequipment.TripsrunfromtheEzulwiniValley (see p1044 ). through sceniccountrywithglimpsesofthe‘flatdogs’(crocodiles)sunning ontheriverbanks. GameReserve.turns torapidsthroughthenarrowBulunguGorge nearMkhaya One ofSwaziland’shighlightsiswhite-water raftingonthe White-Water Rafting through Rover daytrips(US$55,minimumtwopeople,includes lunch).These tripsmustbeprebooked For wildlife drives, the BigGameParks reserves organise good-value offers tours. Mkhaya Land Wildlife Drives GO WILD! for thelatest onoffer, asthesedochange. wildlifeshorter drive (US$16,minimumtwopeople).Checkthewebsite www.biggameparks.org sunrise/sunsetdriveHlane hasatwo-hour (US$20,minimumtwopeople);Mliliwaneoffers a Swazi Trails The secondhalfofthedayisasedateAt a10mwaterfall. trip onestageyou’llhave to portage RUDSAIAD • kaaGm eev Reserve Game AROUND SWAZILAND••Mkhaya ) isManzini’s newest,fanciestand – off the Manzini–Big Bend road near –off theManzini–Big Bend (orknobthorn) tree –valuedfortheir Big Game Parks

( % h reserve 505 3608;theHub,VilliersSt;breakfast/

( breakfast, lunch&dinner). % ( 416 2180;www.swazitrails.co.sz) %

( % 505 8991;www.tgh.sz;cnr 528 3943;www.biggame

( % 528 3943/4). Fontana di Set arrival and departure timesare Setarrivalanddeparture 10amand4pm. offers afull-daytrip(US$84perperson,minimum mountain-bike hire (US$9 perhour). (US$6.20 per person, minimum four) and cultural village tourwith danceperformances drives (US$20 perperson, minimumtwo), a (US$5 per person), two-hour wildlife day introduced. There are guidedwalking trails species. Elephants andlionshave re- been There are white rhinos andmanyantelope offers wonderfully low-key wildlife watching. www.biggameparks.org; admissionUS$3.50; grounds, In thenortheastnear theformerroyalhunting HLANE ROYAL NATIONAL PARK couple of good-value .org; Parks office Royal SwaziBigGame are the through in SouthAfrica. Reservations nearKrugerthe private National Park reserves meals, andisgoodvaluecompared tomanyof wildlife drives, parkentryand walkingsafaris, tages surroundedbybush.Thepriceincludes in rusticallyluxuriousstoneandthatch cot- century huntingcamp,withaccommodation s/d withfullboardUS$165/285) rhino inthewild. your bestchance inAfricaof ablack meeting –thisispossibly foratleastonenight stay While daytours canbearranged, it’sidealto specified pick-uptime,usually10amor4pm. drive inalone;you’llbemetatPhuzumoya ata thenyoucan’t booking inadvance,andeven For day-trippers, the reserve organises a For day-trippers, thereserve You canbunkdownat without inthereserve You can’tvisitorstay % 528 3943/4) Usutu River Hlane RoyalNational Park Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com . . This largely sluggish river safaris safaris , reminiscent of a19th- StoneCamp se above ). (see

(www.biggameparks ( % h

(all-inclusive 528 3943/4; 6am-6pm)

( p1136 ) andwatch outforticks. bike.mountain of Checkthestatus bilharzia hire fishingrodsforUS$3andbringyourown bird-watching, andtheoddcrocodile. Youcan boasts antelope speciesandhyenas,rewarding Mountains, lowveld theLebombo plainsmeet .sz; adult/childUS$3.50/1.70; This tranquil RESERVE NATURE MLAWULA Simunye). the entrancetoHlane(US$0.70;7kmfrom ( the through hutswithelectricity.Bookforboth contained and arestaurant. off camp,withnoelectricity, acommunalarea fromUS$26) sharing cottageperperson US$31/23,self-catering s/per personsharing lonelyplanet.com Reserve office. Reserve ( the dation through Camp camping ground 4 peopleUS$70) % % Minibus taxis toSimunyewilldropyouat Minibus taxis Ndlovu Camp Camp Ndlovu There’s tented accommodationat Bhubesi Camp parks inKwaZulu-Natal, are breeding well. of goodfaith thatwaswelcomed withopenarms. The blackrhinos, whichwere relocated from parks assists inrhinoconservation. still waitwiththeir rifles attheready. You canhelp:yourpresence atany one ofthebigwildlife on behalfofReilly’s rangers,andthepoachingofrhinos cametoahalt.The rangers,however, MswatiIII,intervened for horninDecember1992.The youngking, bull Mthondvo,was killed liberated over against therangersrelating action tothisincident,another rhino,themajestic while sellingtheirfreshlytwo poacherswere de- poachedhorns. killed While theSwazicourts poachers were captured. Afollow-upoperationleadto anothershoot-out atBigBend inwhich The battlecommenced. themselves. GameReserve. WiththerhinosdehornedatHlane,poachersshifted toMkhaya Royal NationalPark inJanuary1992bypoacherswithAK47s,therangersarmed wasattacked land. Rhinoswere dehornedandconfinedtoenclosures fortheirownprotection. After Hlane in thelate 1980s,andthere laws inSwazi- were tochange rhino-poaching determined efforts from crimesyndicates supplyingrhinohorntothelucrative Asian Poachingescalated market. rangers. ers. At theforefront ofthisbattlehasbeenTed Reillyandabandofdedicated hand-picked Sincethenthere hasbeen an ongoingbattletoprotectwas theeasypart. themfrompoach- In 1965 afterwhite anabsenceof70years. inthekingdom rhinowere That re-established RHINO WARS 528 3943;www.biggameparks.org) 416 1151/78;www.sntc.org.sz)

In 1996the Taiwanese government donated money topurchasesix blackrhinos;agesture In April1992there andsome wasashoot-out betweenrangers andpoachersatMkhaya, This defence wasn’teasy,especiallyasthe poachers hadreceived heftyfinancial backing (s/d US$21) is self-catering. Bookaccommo- is self-catering. Royal Swazi Big Game Parks office Royal SwaziBigGame

. (camp sitesperpersonUS$8.50) (camp sitesperpersonUS$5.50,rondavels reserve is a pleasant andrusticfenced-is apleasant

Mapelepele Cottage Mapelepele AROUNDSWAZILAND•• MlawulaNature Reserve (s/d cottagesUS$27/54) National TrustCommission

( h % 6am-6pm) 416 1151;www.sntc.org at theMantenga .

(accommodates , where the offers self- and Siphiso Sara

village. asbestos (chrysotile) dumpsexistaroundthe nestle onapretty hillylandscape. Warning: andmanyArtDecobuildings iron houses oftime warp;thousands corrugated- deserted former asbestosminingtown.It’satrue-life villagetion countrytotheghost of scenicplanta- wind yourway20kmthrough from Mbabane. ous craftvendors upalongtheroad set 1260; www.tintsaba.com) Kraft ( At Peak you’llfind CraftCentre north of Peak OrionPiggs Hotel &Casino. outatthePeakCheck these just CraftCentre town, thisarea isknownforitshandicrafts. FallsPhophonyane In additiontoitsscenery,includingthe Sights 1884. after aprospectorwhofoundgoldhere in thearea.throughout Thetownwasnamed industry andthere are huge pineplantations country isthecentre of Swaziland’slogging This small,grittytowninthenorthwestof the PIGGS PEAK % An interesting Peak detour fromPiggs isto 437 3099;[email protected])

( % 437 3127) located about 8kmnorthof and . There are also numer- Tintsaba Crafts Ethnic Bound Bulembu , Likhweti Likhweti

( % 1047 437 , a

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND were from minedforcosmeticandritual uses known flowers and than 280speciesof bird,andboastswild- unspoiled. US$3/1.70; ( west of thistinycountry, A large pieceof wilderness inthehillynorth- RESERVE NATURE MALOLOTJA whenwet. this roadcanbeboggy hour). vehiclesseveral dailyto Mbabane(US$2,one market atthetopendof themainstreet, with isnexttothe stand tion. Theminibustaxi mainly dirt,butthey’re inreasonable condi- Roads inthenorthwestof the countryare &Away There Getting mosquito repellent! Peak).to becollected fromPiggs Bringthe ahead fordirections (youcanusuallyarrange of inSwaziland.Ring thebestplacestostay forest onthePhophonyane River – isone with breakfast fromUS$97/135) 1319; www.phophonyane.co.sz; tentsUS$68-97,s/dcottages again. Peak Clinicsignandthentake thefirst right residential atthePiggs –turnright setting Peakin Piggs withsmall,neat roomsina /jabulaguesthouse; s/dUS$31/52; Jabula GuestHouse Sleeping 1048 used) main site (US$9), with ablutions and used) ther at thewell-equipped (but infrequently camp. the base camp stove asfires are notpermitted outside office. Bringallyourownfood anda reserve a permit(US$0.80)andamapfrom the tain north. Fortheextended trails, youmustob- inthe in thesouthto MgwayizaRange jaunt,extending fromNgwenya a week-long must beaccompanied byaranger. Youcanvisitthemine,butyou 41,000 BC. away – in a nature reserve ofaway –inanature lushindigenous reserve the lowveld. of in aseries fallsandrapidsuntilitmeets a gorge theparkandcontinueseast through % Accommodation consists of It’s jumpingwithantelope species,more – yourownwheels For Bulembu,you’llneed Reserve Lodge&Nature Phophonyane Hiking The reserve hasoneof theworld’soldest The reserve 416 1151,4424241;www.sntc.org.sz; adult/child WZLN IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation SWAZILAND DIRECTORY mines h trailsrange fromshortdaywalks to 6am-6pm) , where haematite andspecularite rare plants rare

( % isbothrugged andlargely 437 1052;www.swaziplace.com . The This stunninghide- s Komati River ) ThebestB&B nature reserve nature camping ( % cuts , ei- 437

Washington DC,20009) Mbabane) Trails South Africa Mozambique Diplomatic representation inSwaziland: inSwaziland Embassies &Consulates USA UK theUKrepresentative:contact In countrieswithoutSwazirepresentation, Swaziland Embassies &Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES p1046). (see white-water raftingisoptimal rainy season, biking.Inthe cellent walkingandmountain offerSwaziland’s wildlife someex- reserves ACTIVITIES local people. in ruralareas alwaysask permission from are Ifyoucamp innationalparksandreserves. Nearly alldesignated campsites inSwaziland but there are somegoodB&B-styleoptions. wards SouthAfricantouristsandare pricey, Many of thecountry’shotels are geared to- ACCOMMODATION SWAZILAND DIRECTORY Mbabane willdropyouhere. Peak to/from road(MR1);minibustaxis 35km northwestof Mbabane,alongthePiggs Reserve) .org.sz; Mantenga National TrustCommission half-price) catering wooden trails (US$6;nofacilities).There are alsoself- braai Buckingham Gate, LondonSW1E6LB) Gate, Buckingham ( The entrancegate forMalolotja isabout

PRACTICALITIES ( % Swaziland usesthe metricsystem. plugshaveElectrical three large round The % ( (barbecue)area, oralongtheovernight pins asused inSouthAfrica. language dailynewspapers. Observer % 020-7630 6611;www.swaziland.org.uk; 20 , forsixpersons. Bookthrough 202-234 5002;1712NewHampshire Ave, NW, 416 2180;www.swazitrails.co.sz) Times ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( % % are thecountry’sEnglish- (www.times.co.sz), and 404 4651; The Mall, POBox2507, 404 4651;TheMall, 404 3700; Princess Dr,Mbabane) 404 3700;Princess cabins , bothinEzulwiniValley.

( (per personUS$32,children % 416 1151/78;www.sntc orwiththe Swazi Swazi expected tofollowtheceremony. expected andrainsare toconsumehisharvest, his peopletheright grants ofthefestivities theking Aspart ence fortheking. ofthanksgiving,prayer,atonementandrever- in rituals celebrating theNewYear andthefirstfruitsofharvest ber andearlyJanuary.Swaziland’smostsacred ceremony, Umhlanga Incwala ceremony Swazis’ uniqueidentity. which isstillcommonlyworn)underlinethe Colourful ceremonies (andtraditionaldress, FESTIVALS &EVENTS ward travel. See p1050 ongetting foron- fordetails visas USA lonelyplanet.com Incwala Day Somhlolo (Independence Day) DanceDay) Umhlanga (Reed Sobhuza II’sBirthday King National Flag Day MswatiIII’sBirthday King New Year’s Day public holidaysin Swazilandare: rica Directory chapter ( p1106 ), theprincipal As wellasreligious holidays listed intheAf- HOLIDAYS in someplaces. Health chapter, p1130 ). Crocodilesare present the see potentially deadlydiseases, on these ofbecause bilharzia(formore information DDT). Swimminginstillwaters isrisky eradication programsinrecent years (using thereto April,although have serious been bique; thethreat fromNovember ishighest Malaria isariskinthenortheastnearMozam- HEALTH cwala butisattheUmhlangadance. in Mbabaneforexactdates. in theEzulwiniValley. Ask atthetouristoffice The venue forbothfestivals isnearLobamba Mbabane Pl,Mbabane; except foremergencyservices) cesses wearred feathers intheirhair. dance andcarrytheirreeds tothequeenmother. Prin- thereed daytheyperform Onthesixth wives fortheking. able youngSwaziwomenandashowcaseofpotential aweek-long debutanteballformarriage- is somethinglike reeds forthe repair andmaintenanceoftheroyalpalace.It girlswhocollect byunmarried performed or September, Photography isnotpermitted attheIn- ( % 404 6441;http://mbabane.usembassy.gov;2350 (Reed Dance) A great spectacle inAugust Dance)Agreat spectacle (Reed December/January 1 January SWAZILAND DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events SWAZILANDDIRECTORY HeldsometimebetweenlateDecem- 25 April 25 April h 8.30am-12.30pm Mon&Thu, 19 April 19 April 22 July August/September August/September 6 September 6September to US$9) from post offices andshops. to US$9)frompost offices international callsiswithphone cards(US$2 thecode00.Thebestwayto makeland, use prefix 09-268. Tocalloverseas fromSwazi- To call Swaziland fromSouth Africadialthe TELEPHONE lers cheques. the receipt of whencashing purchase travel- until 11amSaturday.Mostbanks ask tosee and erally from8.30amto2.30pmweekdays, and travellers cheques. hours are Banking gen- and insidetheRoyalSwaziHotel’s casino. inSwazi Mall,are Bank atStandard Mbabane credit ordebitcards.Themost convenient currencies outsideSwaziland. Emalangeni are tochange difficult forother where andthere’s tochange noneed them. are acceptedSouth Africanrand.Rands every- is emalangeni (E).Itistiedinvaluetothe The unitof currency isthelilangeni; theplural MONEY line. aconservative and toes and royalty,thelatter isownedbythe‘nation’ frequently courtsthewrathof government Observer papers: the There are twoEnglish-language dailynews- MEDIA hamba, NgwempisiandMalalotja. Mlawula, Sibebe,Mlilwane,Mantenga, Ma- the popularhikingspots,includingShewula, has recently printed hikingmapsof mostof Mbabane) istry ofPublicWorks officeatthe from theSurveyor-General’s Topographical maps(1:50,000)are available MAPS Valleys. ple of placesintheEzulwiniandMalkerns Internet facilitiesare inMbabaneandacou- ACCESS INTERNET 2180; www.swazitrails.co.sz; Mantenga Craft Centre, Ezulwini 2180; www.swazitrails.co.sz; Craft Mantenga mation. Theprivately run ( ( Mbabane. Thewebsites of Swaziland’s maintourist informationisin TOURIST INFORMATION www.biggameparks.org www.sntc.org.sz Only afew ATMs acceptinternational Nedbank andFirst Nationalchange cash . TheSwazilandTourismAuthority . Theformerisanindependent,and Times of Swaziland ) and ) offer parksinfor- useful ( % Royal Swazi Big Game Parks Royal Swazi BigGame 404 6267;MhlambanyatsiRd, Swazi Trails Swazi National Trust andthe ( % Swazi /fax 416 1049 Min-

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND about bus services fromMbabane toMaputo about busservices 1050 its office. speaking,ManziniGenerally hasthemain BUS &MINIBUSTAXI Land in Mozambique. to US$63)andVilanculos(US$21 US$197) toMaputoUS$175) andtwiceaweek (US$21 toDurban(US$63 flies fourtimesaweek Airways Express and Johannesburg (US$127oneway). .saairlink.co.za) Manzini.) ules andtickets often refer totheairportas tional Airport,southwestof Manzini. (Sched- Swaziland’s mainairportisMatsapha Interna- Air THERE&AWAY GETTING SWAZILAND IN TRANSPORT (South Africa).Allow24hours. ( advance atthe borders butit’scheaper toarrange themin forMozambiqueareVisas available atthe forOnwardTravel Visas 372, Mbabane) the apply foratemporary residence permitfrom formoreAnyone staying than60daysmust oneforSwaziland. Africa, youwon’tneed toenter avisa South land. Ifyoudon’tneed a Most peopledon’tneed tovisitSwazi- visa VISAS Valley, Swaziland) 6pm. Mhlumeniand Gobahas isopen7am to tween (open 7am to8pm).Theborder crossingbe- and Mozambique isatLomahasha–Namaacha Swaziland The mainborder crossing between Mozambique malanga (SouthAfrica). northern destinations of Gauteng andMpu- frequent departures are in Mbabaneforthe to Jo’burg, DurbanandMozambique. Less international transportrankfor of HomeAffairs. % 404 3700; Princess Dr,Mbabane) 404 3700;Princess Chief ImmigrationOfficer

Inquire atthe touristoffice inMbabane RNPR NSAIAD • etn hr wy There &Away INSWAZILAND••Getting TRANSPORT Swaziland Airlink whose offices are offices whose intheMinistry flies daily between Swaziland fliesdailybetween also hastouristinformationin

( % Mozambiquan High Commission High Mozambiquan 518 6840;www.swaziexpress.com)

(

% ( % orNelspruit 518 6155/92;www 404 2941;POBox Swazi

will, however, havewill, however, to waitalong time. aren’t factors inthedecision to offer alift.You as theskin colourof thedriver andhitchhiker risk. but potentially serious should understand thattheyare asmall taking the roadfirst. Travellers whodecidetohitch or whatever vehicle happenstocomedown tion tograbbing liftsontrucks,4WDs,lorries of Africa there isoften simply no otherop- and wedon’trecommend it.Butinsomeparts Hitching entirely isnever safe inanycountry, Hitching vate hire) insomeof taxis thelarger towns. shorter routes. There are alsononshared (pri- theyoftenbest publictransport,although run are you’llfindminibustaxis the Generally at themainstopincentre of Mbabane. mostoftic buses, which beginandterminate There are afew infrequent (butcheap) domes- Taxi Bus &Minibus AROUND GETTING leave taxis distance earlyinthemorning. change attheborder. minibuses Mostlong- (US$21, sixhours). Onmanyroutes, you’ll five tosixhours) andManzini andDurban (Park MbabaneandManzini Station), (US$20, (open7amto10pm). Lavumisa Mahamba (open7amto10pm);andGolela– (open8amto6pm); Emahlathini–Sicunusa Oshoek–Ngwenya (open7amto10pm); are: (open8amto4pm); Josefsdal–Bulembu The mainbordercrossingswithSouthAfrica South Africa Manzini toMaputo (US$10,2½hours). 3½ hours). operate Minibustaxis dailyfrom some continuingontoManzini (US$4.50, L omahasha border(US$2,1½hours) with daily inthemorningforNamaacha– departMaputo(Mozambique). Minibuses nate days. returning direct toJo’burg/Pretoria onalter- via MbabaneandManzini three timesaweek, bus.com) Hitching iseasierhere than inSouthAfrica, Jo’burg rundailybetween Minibus taxis The International Airport. International Airport. taxisleviedatMatsapha A US$7departure TAX DEPARTURE runsfromJo’burg/Pretoria toDurban Baz Bus

( % South Africa 021-4392323;www.baz South Africa lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake

1051 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND