LAOS D T L Y 237 T P S N O I T a C I L B U Dong Phu P Vieng NPA T E N a L P Y L E N O L

CENTRAL LAOS d t L y 237 t P s n o i t a c i l b u Dong Phu P Vieng NPA t e n a l P y l e n o L

Tham Kong Lo © Savannakhet Phu Hin Bun NPA Tha Khaek (p 244 ) and Dong Phu Dong Phu Tham Kong Lo Kong Lo Tham Tha Khaek Tha (p 254 )

(boxed text, p 252 ) and ) and 252 p text, Loop (boxed The

(p 242 ) for a boat trip through this astonish- 242 (p ing 7km-long limestone cave Go off the beaten track to Go off the beaten Stay in the remote villages of Stay in the remote in the ) and experience life 262 (p NPA Vieng spirit forests experience upcountry Laos; good roads, experience upcountry Laos; good roads, bad roads, stunning scenery, a big dam and challenges unexpected of the atmosphere Soak up the colonial historical districts of Do Trek amid the gothic limestone karsts, Trek and meandering rivers caves subterranean Hin Bun NPA of the Phu (p 242 ) Savannakhet      HIGHLIGHTS To find them, you could do ‘The Loop’ through Khammuan Loop’ through To find them, you could do ‘The and Bolikhamsai Provinces Instead, you’ll find a diverse mix of ecology, environment and ethnicity that is very differ- is very of ecology, environment and ethnicity that mix you’ll find a diverse Instead, You might not be the first person to trek into the medieval limestone karsts the first person to trek You might not be the Phu of Central Laos and create your own trail… and create Katang village. Branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail await the most intrepid, or just go forthKatang Branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail await the most intrepid, village. trek into far-off Dong Phu Vieng NPA in Savannakhet to sleep with the spirits in a Province NPA Vieng Dong Phu into far-off trek by motorbike, detouring via the incredible 7km-long cave Tham Kong Lo in the process. Or Kong Lo in the process. Tham 7km-long cave by motorbike, detouring via the incredible that have disappeared elsewhere in Southeast Asia. elsewhere disappeared that have the most forest cover and the highest concentrations of wildlife, including some species the highest concentrations of wildlife, and cover the most forest French histories and lethargic lifestyles, will be your bases. This part This the country claims of bases. will be your lifestyles, histories and lethargic French towns of Tha Khaektowns of Tha and Savannakhet, Lowland Lao communities, slowly crumbling with their ent to the north – and as much tough and memorable travel as you like. The Mekong River Mekong River The ent to the northyou like. as – and as much tough and memorable travel be a banana pancake or happy shake for miles. Hin Bun National Protected Area (NPA), but it will probably feel like you are and there won’t and there like you are but it will probably feel (NPA), Area Hin Bun National Protected taste of the ‘real Laos’, mean central Laos is more open to exploration than ever. open to Laos is more Laos’, mean central of the ‘real taste But improved roads and several sustainable tourism initiatives, which give you a full-flavoured you a full-flavoured which give sustainable tourism initiatives, roads and several But improved The area at the waist of the country has traditionally been skipped over by most travellers. by most travellers. been skipped country has traditionally at the waist of the area over The CENTRAL LAOS karsts, caves andrivers inPhu HinBunNPA ers are easytoget to. skills andplentyof timeand money,butoth- language withdecentLao limited tothose NuanNPAs, Ban and HinNamnoSe is region. AccesstoNakai-NamTheunNBCA, (NPAs) accountingforvastswathesof the country witheight NationalProtected Areas isthemostprotected partof Laos the Central thethickermaintain vegetation. lasts longer, water thussupplyingenough to receive that rainfromtheSouthChinaSea also Area (NBCA) Biodiversity Conservation areas aroundtheNakai-NamTheunNational of rainfromJunetoOctober. Far-eastern southwestern monsoonbringsbucket-loads tofreezing The duringwinter nights. close Sao,andthevillages alongRteLak 8Bcanbe head easttowardstheAnnamite Chainand is positively steaming. Itgets coolerasyou warm andfromMarch toMay Savannakhet The Mekong River valleyisalwayspretty 238 Areas National Protected Climate

Beung Kan CENTRAL LAOS Crossing thelabyrinthofIn Khammuan limestone Border

Paksan 6

Bolikham ETA LAOS CENTRAL Seek AdviceBefore Using ThisRoad THAILAND ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ (Thang Beng) Wang Fong Vieng Kham Tat

Pak Kading

Ban Khoun Kham Kading NPA

(Ban Na Hin) Ban PhonKham

Nam

(p252) Loop Map See The Nam

Viewpoint Mekong

BOLIKHAMSAI Border Crossing

Sala 13 Mu Tat Namsanam an That IngHang

Savannakhet River

Mukdahan

Thong Vieng Bun NPA

Hin Bun Phu Hin

Ban Na Kheu

Phanom Nakhon Nam Map (p261) Savannakhet See SpinThrough

Nong Bok Crossing Border

Tha Bak

ὈὈὈ Nam Hin

Ban Na

Phuak

Limestone Caves

Tha Khaek

Bun Hotsprings and Nam Kong Lo Tham

Kham Saibuli uang

Keut Nyaeng Ny

Tha Falang Kaew Nuea

Kong Leng

Phon Kading Lak 35 Khoun 13

Ban Tiou Ban Pha ThatSi Khotabong

Ban Kong Lo

Se Bang Fai Nang Aen Dong Natad

(Xeno) Tham Pa Fa

Seno

Keng Kok Pass Tham Lak Sao That Phon 8 (Xao)

Ban Tha Lang Gnommalath 8B

Heuan Paksong Theun

Ban Nape Nam Dam

Nam Phao Hin

Mahaxai Mai Border Crossing

Nyommalat

Cau Treo

Se Jam Se Noi 23B phon Atsaphangthong

Songkhon Theun NPA

Nakai-Nam Nam Nam Yo

Sonbuli 12

Ban Nong Ping

Lang Khang

Sai Bua Thong Phalan e g n a R e t i m a n n A Kong Lo. border, andmostrecently, theroadtoTham andtheVietnamese ThaKhaek 12 between borderatNamPhao,the Vietnamese Rte Rte 8 between 13and Bao, der atLao bor- totheVietnamese from Savannakhet to‘smoothassilk’,includingRtestatus 9 graduated from‘bone-jarring nightmare’ road maintenance teams. Otherroadshave still pretty smooth;congratulationstothe what surprisinglyafter nearlytwodecades, and,some- daysRtetude. 13issealed These large amountsof timeandincredible forti- south of Vientianeinvolved inordinately Gone are thedayswhentravelling anywhere p240). (see Nam Kading andTrainingCentre Research Province canbearrangedBolikhamsai atthe Province.in Savannakhet animist villages of DongPhu Vieng(p 262 ) Similar treks leadtothesacred forests and on acommunity-based orcommercialtrek. (p 242 ) isaccessibleeitheronyourownor &Around There Getting

Se Bang

KHAMMUAN Theun

Bualapha Treks intotheNamKading NPA in Hae NPA

Xang

Phu Fai Vinh SAVANNAKHET 9

Se Pon

Muang Phin

Na Phao Namno

Cha Lo Border Crossing NPA Hin 23 Se BangFai Tham Lot 60miles 100km 0 0 ὈὈ ὈὈ 23 9 Prince Souphanouvong's (Xepon) Sepon Bridge (Destroyed&

Ban Muang Vieng NPA Dong Phu Impassable) Dong

Dong Hoi Dansavanh Ban Crossing VIETNAM Border ὈὈ Gulf ofTonkin lonelyplanet.com Tahoy Lao Bao Se XapNPA Khe Sanh Samouy Dong Ha CENTRAL LAOS 239 212 638, 020-5561 2348; r 50,000- % (

This is Paksan’s best budget choice. choice. best budget This is Paksan’s ) a $ × 054 / pop 43,700 There’s a LaoThere’s Development Bank just east There’s also a BCEL ATM about 200m east of about 200m east of also a BCELThere’s ATM Hotel. the Paksan Sleeping & Eating BK Guesthouse 80,000K; Located at the confluence of the Nam San at the confluence of Located Paksan River, and the Mekong (San River) is the capital of or Pakxanh) (Pakxan 13 on Rte Its position Bolikhamsai Province. border between Vientiane and the nearest busy it an increasingly with Vietnam makes highway town, and the traffic is expected when Rte years in the next five to increase is finally and Paksan 10 linking Phonsavan not really But as it stands now there’s paved. It’s possible a whole lot to do or see in Paksan. to cross into Thailand, though hardly anyone ever does. buses stop. is also where which the market, of east to the bridge It’s a short walk from here here. listed the Nam San and the hotels over been declared National Protected Areas Areas National Protected been declared become a major have ). These areas 238 (p battleground between those wishing to ex- ploit Laos’s untapped hydroelectricity largely capacity and those to preserve wishing some Asia. in pristine wilderness areas the most of winning. are For now, the developers PAKSAN ¯¾¡§ % (p 261 ) From Savannakhet. One- and two-day trips to the 261 (p (p 251 ) From Tha Khaek. Although trekking in its infancy is still here 251 (p (p 262 ) From Savannakhet. This three-day (with a fair bit of road time at either end) trek 262 (p (p 242 ) From Tha Khaek. to beat these trekking For beauty, it’s hard and boating trips through 242 (p PROVINCES •• Paksan KHAMMUAN & BOLIKHAMSAI

the monolithic limestone karsts.the monolithic limestone Two- and three-day available at Tha Khaek’s options are Tourism Centre Information ). 246 Discovery (p days with Green ), or four 246 (p Dong Phu Vieng NPA Vieng Dong Phu Dong Natad Provincial Protected Area (PPA) (PPA) Area Protected Dong Natad Provincial Tham Lot Se Bang Fai/Hin Namno NPA Namno NPA Bang Fai/Hin Lot Se Tham Phu Hin Bun NPA Phu TREKKING IN CENTRAL LAOS IN CENTRAL TREKKING Most experience. a cultural and environmental place to combine great central Laos is a Underrated run by either the state-run Khaek Eco-Guide in central Laos are in Tha Units and Savannakhet treks US$40 to US$500 range in cost from approximately and Discovery, company Green or the private group). Following number of people in the the greater drop significantly the per person (prices some particularly trekking in the region: destinations are recommended takes you to two Katang head-bending cultural It’s a real come with a host of taboos. beliefs animist villages where ). 254 experience, but the transport makes prices Savannakhet’s a bit steep. Organised by Eco-Guide Unit (p provincial protected near Savannakhet area and popular for their homestays and explanations of how cheap are ) for details. 254 Contact forest. villagers use the sacred Savannakhet’s Eco-Guide Unit (p and mostly revolves with walks in the eponymous Nam Lot cave, it is also possible to combine a homestay around the at Tha Khaek’s Enquire Discovery. Tourism or with Green Centre Information spectacular Hin Namno NPA. Lowland Lao,Lowland peculiar who speak a dialect

Much of the region is relatively sparsely is relatively the region of Much Apart from on the Nam Kading and Nam Kading Apart from on the Nam populated and five large tracts of forest have have forest tracts of large and five populated markets and villages of the mountainous east. of and villages markets while you might see Hmong, Kri, Katang, and Themarou in the Phuan Atel, Maling, ple (commonly known as Bru) make up more up more ple (commonly known as Bru) make Khammuan, the population of than 10% of areas the Mon-Khmer-speaking Makong peo- Makong the Mon-Khmer-speaking areas to these two provinces, dominate the popula- dominate to these two provinces, tribal Thais, tion and, with smaller groups of meet. the people you’ll mostly In remoter are bordering Vietnam, via an area of moderately moderately of bordering Vietnam, via an area spectacular mountains.high Laid- but often ) 244 Tha Khaek (p back and well-connected is the logical base. east, eventually reaching the Annamite Chain the Annamite east, eventually reaching Physically the land climbs steadily from the the land climbs steadily Physically the north and valley towards River Mekong PROVINCES Bolikhamsai and the country. the narrow, central ‘waist’ of Khammuan straddle KHAMMUAN KHAMMUAN BOLIKHAMSAI & persuasion if you want a boatman to take you if you want a boatman to take persuasion than an hour or two in any direction. more more difficult you’ll need and more wad of a fat lonelyplanet.com Hin Bun rivers, arranging boat transport is arranging Hin Bun rivers, CENTRAL LAOS 50m along the street from the BK Guesthouse, 50m alongthestreet fromtheBKGuesthouse, pending onsize. kitted butvaryinginpricede- outthesame you’ll cometoluxury,withthe32roomsall just eastof thebridge is west. market, oryoucouldjust hailanythinggoing senger trucks)also leave frequently fromthe with mostinthemorning. hours, 6.05am and4.30pm, 143km)between Talat SaoforVientiane (25,000K,three tofour Paksan, leave buses fromRte 13outsidethe p fromVientiane,see For buses 114 . From &Away There Getting fish dishes. decent bridge crossingtheNamSan,serves atthenorthwestendofrun Saynamsan, the 35,000K; andThaifood. Vietnamese its top-notch Lao, this restaurant isknownupanddownRte 13for at sunset. the Mekong and the NamSanthatare great restaurantscouple of nearthejunctionof Lao and 180,000K; right. and it’safew hundred metres alongonthe Take thefirst (south)eastof right thebridge guy andspeakssomeEnglishFrench. atmosphere iswelcoming.MrKothagood Rooms are poky,butthey’re spotlessandthe 240 Talat Sao(MorningMarket) andthere are a depart for Lak Sao(50,000K, five tosixhours, depart for Lak You won’thave anytroublefindingnoodle Paksan Hotel If you’re headingtoVietnam, SaynamsanRestaurant Restaurant Viengxum Udon Thani andBangkok(infrequently). it (480B). when eightpeopleshowuporyoucharter arrival. The boat(60B,20minutes) leaves fuss, thoughtheydonotissuevisason process thepaperworkwithouttoomuch fice you turnupattheLao between Paksan Still,if andBeungKan. Few travellers usethisMekongcrossing BEUNG KAN &PAKSAN CROSSING THETHAI BORDERAT f BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••Paksan PROVINCES toLakSao In Thailand for busesleave BeungKan ǒ

e ( h h (ricenoodlessoup)optionsaround a 8am-noon &1.30-4.30pm) 7am-9.30pm) ) This new Vietnamese-run hotel ThisnewVietnamese-run ( % 791 333; fax 791 222; Rte 13;r50,000- 791 333;fax222;Rte

(mains 8000-30,000K) In town,thefamily- ( % probably the closest probably theclosest immigration of- S 212 068;mains20,000- ǎ wngth theyshould s ǎ wngth ǎ ew About (pas- ǎ ew ew upstream fromthejunctionof theMekong NPA tinted river windsitswayintothe limestone formations,thisbroad,turquoise- hillsandmenacing-looking rounded byhigh p 81 aforested). Flowing through valleysur- boxed –fornow(see tine rivers text, inLaos River andthe 187km fromVientiane. Pak Kading yetpicturesquesleepy village of ¯ NPANam Kading alongtheway. central Laos transport instead andstoptoenjoysomeof Vientiane andHanoi appeal,take local doesn’t If thehellish24-hourbusjourneybetween PAKSAN TOLAKSAO Sao. they leave –waitoutsidetheTalat thecapital Paksanpass through abouttwohours after For Pak Kading, take anything goingsouth. Sao(30,000K,1½to2½hours, 100km). Lak then change forothertransportalongRte 8to 1½ totwohours), where Rte 13joinsRte 8, (20,000K, usuallyknownasThangBeng Kham, they fill.After thistake a side of theNam Kading, underneath the fromthePakduring thewetseason Kading and howmanypeoplearenights involved. US$30 toUS$90, dependingonhowmany ranging fromonetothree days, andfrom range varioustreks intotheNamKading NPA Alternatively, theofficialshere canalsoar- about 30minutes upstream fromthecentre. waterfall inawonderfullypicturesque setting combined withatripto stream isbest Phon Astay Kham. fromBan of theNamKading about30minutes up- r 80,000K,meals20,000-35,000K) Centre available atthe more of than aglimpse anyof these. count yourself very luckytocatch anything and manybirdspecies.As you’ll usualinLaos, gur, gibbon,dhole,Asiatic blackbear,tiger pygmy slowloris,François’langur,Douclan- rarities includetheelephant,giantmuntjac, into thiswilderness,where confirmedanimal Heading eastalongRte 13you’llcometothe 189km) at 5am, 5.30am and 6.30am, or when 189km) at5am,5.30amand6.30am,orwhen È ¾¦½¹¤¸$Á¹ headingsouthfromVientiane All buses There’s basicaccommodationandfood To get there, it’spossibletocharter aboat . Theriver isundoubtedly thebestway

(NKRTC; % Nam Kading Nam Kading Research andTraining Research Nam Kading È ¤§¾©$Õ¡½© 020-5571 9522; www.namkading.org; 020-5571 9522;www.namkading.org; , located onthebanks Tat WangFong s , oneof themostpris- ǎ wngth Ø ¤ lonelyplanet.com ǎ ew Pak Kading Nam Kading Nam Kading to Vieng to Vieng

, asmall sits just , CENTRAL LAOS )

a 020- 241 020-224 020-246 020-246 %

( ) station if station if The re- % % (

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a ew 051-214 399; s/d 051-214 399; s/d ǎ About 800m About )

% ( wngth 7am-10pm) ǎ ai s 020-233 1683; www.sainamhai h , about 300m north of north of , about 300m ) %

( a Sisouphanh Guest House Sisouphanh Guest Dokkhoun Restaurant 051-233 629; Rte 8; r 50,000-100,000K; , opposite the market. You won’t You won’t the market. , opposite % Seng Chen Guesthouse (

Mi Thuna Restaurant & Guesthouse For food, Sainamhai Resort Xok Xai GETTING THERE & AWAY you call ahead. (50,000K, three to four hours). Alternatively, Alternatively, to four hours). (50,000K, three starting your journey in Tha Khaek if you’re or Vientiane, another option is to simply hop off bus and get on any north or southbound at Vieng Kham (also known as Thang Beng), 13 and 8, and continue Rtes at the junction of (per day 30,000) are available for hire. It’s It’s for hire. available (per day 30,000) are the only place in town with any char- really 8; follow Rte is 3km east of The resort acter. 8 and the Rte the sign near the junction of the Theun Hin Bun dam road that borders town, housing compound at the east end of down the kilometres or via a turn-off a few pick They’ll road that leads to Tham Kong Lo. at the you up for free Sisouphanh Guest House, serves decent Lao food. a single daily in Tha Khaek there’s If you’re for Ban Khoun 7.30am departure Kham new rooms in a Lao-style by the time building this. you read standard air-con station, Mi Thuna offers (mains 25,000K rooms, as well as a restaurant (per day hire to 40,000K) and motorcycle 100,000K). resort.com; fan/air-con 100,000/130,000K; town, and comprises 12 sort is outside of the semidetached of bungalows at the edge an attached There’s River). (Hai Nam Hai (mains 15,000K to 30,000K), and restaurant motorcycles (per day 80,000K) and bicycles identical guesthouses, all offering new but new but guesthouses,identical all offering rooms with air-con characterless tiny and cable TV to for 60,000K hot water and 80,000K. Long-standing include the options tight at rooms 285 5865; r 60,000K; simple but tidy fan and the three the market, rooms at 40,000/60,000K) a guidebook to find the more need the help of options. recent the mar- north of 8 this is about 300m On Rte rooms, to its 20 slightly In addition aged ket. finished construction on eight it should have 9811; mains 8000-35,000K; south of the market on Rte 8, past the petrol on Rte the market south of 0182; Rte 8; r 70,000-100,000K; , Ban 8am- Tham h Tat Namsanam Tat Tourist Information Bounxou Restaurant sala (open-sided shelter) view- Lak Sao to PROVINCES •• Paksan & KHAMMUAN BOLIKHAMSAI , just south of the Tat Namsanam the Tat , just south of ; follow a blue sign along a laterite sign along a laterite ; follow a blue (p 242 ). The other main attraction is 242 (p (Rte 8)

near Km 36. Do not, whatever you do, near Km 36. Do not, whatever

, where the fish dishes are famous. If you famous. the fish dishes are , where 055-320 046; Rte 13; mains 10,000-25,000K; As you approach Ban you approach Khoun Kham from As Ban Khoun Kham’s main role is as a base

Falls or no falls, Pak Kading is a good place Kading or no falls, Pak Falls % SLEEPING & EATING Ban Khoun runs Kham’s main strip, which 13, is home to several parallel to Rte nearly miss the spectacularly dramatic scenery here. miss the spectacularly dramatic scenery here. Rte 13, there is a 13, there Rte point but plans to run community-based treks from treks but plans to run community-based Hin Bun NPA. into the Phu here entrance. This centre, built by the Khammuan built by This centre, entrance. tourism office, wasn’t staffed when we passed, hire a guide through the hire Centre and more than one foreign visitor has become than one foreign and more yet, Proceed with caution, or better lost here. tier is quite high. Unfortunately, the path and high. Unfortunately, tier is quite clear, entirely signs leading to the falls aren’t 3km north of town. The falls are in a striking town. The falls are 3km north of and the upper location surrounded by karst Kong Lo twin-cataract of the impressive and still suffers from regular power outages. from regular and still suffers to visit the extraordinary from which the village only recently received electricity received only recently the village the Nam Theun–Hin Bun Dam, essentially directly a 13km-long tunnel being bored through this, a nearby mountain. Despite of hastily erected guesthouses and karaoke guesthouses and karaoke hastily erected of Ban Khoun Kham (also known as Ban bars, boomtown. All the Na Hin) is the archetypal fuss is due to the town’s status as a base for Located at the edge of mountainous jungle, of at the edge Located comprised primarily centre and with a village 9pm) Ban Khoun Kham (Ban Na Hin) to stop for a meal at the to stop for a meal at the ( while you swim and picnic at the falls – bring while you swim and picnic mercifully free as the falls are food and water salespeople. of If you simply want to visit Tat Wang Fong, it want to visit Tat If you simply time including waiting return, costs 150,000K centre cost 100,000/150,000K one-way/return. one-way/return. cost 100,000/150,000K centre continue east about 15km to the village of of about 15km to the village continue east Phon Kham bridge (250,000K per boat, 8am to 4pm 8am to 4pm per boat, (250,000K bridge However, and Friday). Tuesday simpler to it’s ask for a and the river reach road until you to the research Wang Fong. Boats boat to Tat lonelyplanet.com have to stay there is one simple guesthouse to stay there have across from the restaurant. directly CENTRAL LAOS give youataste of whattheNPA hastooffer. 243. p see four different swimming locations, including Pa Chan, accommodationinavillage and plenty of karst Tham scenery,awalkthrough Hin Bunisespecially good.Theroute includes two, 550,000Kfor three tofive) intothePhu (1,200,000K foroneperson, 600,000K each for the populartwo-daytrip From ThaKhaek, text, p 239 ) of varyinglengths intotheNPA. theboxedent community-based treks (see snaking streams. this area of almostmythicalgothicpeaksand But there are twobetter ways toreally get into riety of rare speciesof deer. species, aswellelephants,tigers andava- otherprimate François’ langurandseveral mains hometotheendangered Douclangur, Despitehunting andlogging. this,thearea re- bers of key forest-dependent speciesthrough by road,localpeoplehave reduced thenum- isolated and desperately exposed. face,atoncewonderfully the cracksincliff hundreds of metres intothesky.Floraclingsto almostvertically thatrise for the limestonecliffs hard nottofeel awestruckbythevery scaleof region. Passing onfootorbyboatit’s through is someof themostbreathtaking countryinthe area in1993 andit’snooverstatement this tosay Itwasmadeaprotected central Khammuan. forests andstrikingkarst topographyacross wilderness area of streams, turquoise monsoon ¯ BunNPA Hin Phu hour. For aboutoneand 3.30pm(50,000K),taking Kong Lo, –andchange. Kham Khoun Ban ToTham 7am to5pm)–bothaboutonehourfrom Sao(20,000K, for theVietnamborder,Lak 20,000K, 7amto5pm)orifyou’re bound s totake anyofday you’llneed thesemiregular likely inthe tocatch inthemorning.Later hours, 143km),bothof which you’re more (40,000K,three(40,000K) andThaKhaek forVientiane includingbuses Kham, Khoun Kham. Khoun hour) toBan by 242 The ǎ È ¾¦½¹¤¸$Á¹ wngth ProvinceKhammuan runsfive differ- All transportalongRte 8stopsinBan A tripoutto much ofAlthough theNPA isinaccessible s

ǎ Phu HinBunNPA isahuge (1580sqkm) BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••Paksan PROVINCES toLakSao wngth ǎ ew s s ǎ ǎ ǎ wngth ew wngth to Vieng Kham (Thang Beng; (ThangBeng; to ViengKham È ¤§¾©² (20,000K, 7amto5pm,one Tham KongLo Tham ǎ ǎ ew ew Þ ¹ from ThamKongLo, leave at10am,1pm Ø $¯ Ý $ (see p (see 246 ) will visitors tonatural nearlyanhourtopassthrough. canoe torised Ittakes amo- some placesandalmostashigh. tunnel isquite awesome–upto100mwidein Pronounced Lo togetand you’llstart anideaof apitch-black,ning 7kmthrough windingcave andrun- a monolithiclimestonemountain Imagine ariver attheedge disappearing of «Õìº©¡º¤ì Mekong (US$453perperson). follows alarge arctowardsthe anticlockwise astheNamHinBun cliffs, sheer spectacularly very tempting four-day kayakingtripbetween Discovery (p246). Khaek ( the be madethrough recommendwe highly them.Bookingscan some of thepoorest andtheydo; partsof Laos were designedtobringtouristdollars into years ofseveral treks NGOsubsidies) these after of thecentre nowbeingself-sufficient p see Lagoon; 250 ). the stunning day trip(700,000/750,000/800,000/1,400,000K ProvinceLo, Khammuan hasputtogether a there’s a5000Kparkingfee. the farside. Cave entrancecosts5000Kand thecave,through includingashortstopon trip (about2½hours, maximumfour people) landscape gardeners inThailand. growing trees have dugupandsoldto been than 2m;inmore slow- accessibleplacesthese palms thathave rare attained of heights more Keeproot onthecliffs. aneyeoutforsago number of hardytrees have managed totake of jaggedcliffs blackkarst. Amazingly,afair and scenery–gothicmountains spectacular Nam HinBunmeanders some through shallowpoints. at several andwade todisembark it’s usuallynecessary thegravelsandals; intheriverbed issharpand andwearrubber to bringatorch (flashlight) cavern sure branching off themaintunnel.Be ally groupsof glittering inadry stalagmites KongLo Tham % , trulyoneof thenaturalwonders of Laos. Boat pilotshired forthejourney canlead of theroadtoTham Kong Since thesealing thetunnel, snakingthrough Besides With alittlemore timeandmoney thepricesaren’tAlthough cheap (aresult It costs 100,000Kperboatforthereturn 030-530 0503;ThVientiane; (p 246 ) offers similartreks plusone thàm k Ö Khoun KongLeng Khoun thâat ą wng láw, Tourist InformationCentre Tourist (stupas)thatare actu- h 8am-5pm) lonelyplanet.com (akatheBlue thecave-cum- Tham Kong Tham inTha Green Green

CENTRAL LAOS

243 . The name is slightly (Rte near the mar- 8B) Located . For departure times from Ban . For departure bomb boats to Ban Khoun Kham (50,000K) ew ǎ serves Lao menu of a short and (cnr Rte 8 & Rte 8B) ew ¡ × ǎ ¾® È wngth ǎ ¡§¾¸ × 054 / pop 31,400 7am-8pm) s If you fancy a spin in a bomb boat just head wngth ¾$ê É ǎ Information Lao Development Bank Post office LAK SAO ¹ì % scen- mountain and karst While the forest, 8 on the Rte of ery along the upper stretches Lak Sao (Lak Kilometre Xao; literally, way to 20) is strikingly beautiful, the town itself is of a disappointment. reaches In the eastern near the Vietnam bor- Bolikhamsai Province der, Lak that has Sao is a frontier boomtown for log- grown rapidly as the headquarters ging operations that continue to decimate it’s the nearest And while surrounding forests. town to the border, that border is still real 32km away – raising some good questions 20’. about why it’s called ‘Kilometre Tha Bak ® the Nam Bak of sits near the confluence The town itself and Nam Theun rivers. Kading to reason real quiet; the and pretty is pretty, out on or get the river photos of stop is to take the incredible huge made out of are misleading, as the boats missile-shaped drop tanks that carried fuel for during the 1960s and jets operating overhead sometimes dropped ’70s. Empty tanks were when they hit damaged and those that weren’t been turned into boats. the deck have the at the east end of down to the riverbank a price. and negotiate bridge h GETTING THERE & AWAY 50km road from BanThe Khoun Kham to Ban has been Kong Lo the finished, making to and now getting trip obsolete, former boat ride easy one-hour motorbike Kong Lo is an or . From Ban Kong Lo 241 Khoun Kham, see p s Tha Ban Khouneast of 18km Kham, About depart at 6.30am, 7.30am and 3pm. Betweendepart at 6.30am, 7.30am depar- infrequent are 8am and 11am there enough people. are when there tures ket, this bank changes Thai baht, US dollars, UK pounds and Vietnamese dong. Western-style dishes. Western-style

020-210

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( 030-530 0503; Th 030-530 0503; Th At the edge of of At the edge % ‘ homestay’ (

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consists of two two consists of and you’ll be hooked and you’ll be hooked Saylomyen Guest House 020-7775 5220; www.salalao Enjoy Boy Guesthouse %

( 020-7776 1846; www.salalao.com; r 020-7776 1846; www.salalao.com; in Tha Khaek (p 246 ). 246 in Tha Khaek (p Chantha Guest House PROVINCES Sao •• Lak KHAMMUAN & BOLIKHAMSAI % (

In Ban Tiou, about 3km closer to In Ban Tiou, features 16 more modern rooms in 16 more features 8am-5pm) Mithuna Restaurant h Tourist Centre Information 020-7776 4896; r 80,000K) 020-7775 5216; r 40,000-80,000K) At the outskirts of Ban Kong Lo, the first the outskirts of At Sala Kong Lor Located just outside the entrance to the just outside the entrance to the Located In the mazelike village of Ban Lo, Kong of village In the mazelike % % Kham, cave and run by the same people as the iden- cave tically named guesthouse in Ban Khoun The drink vendors are more than happy to more are The drink vendors on For more point you in the right direction. . 45 p text, homestays, see boxed the Na Tan is a 2km walk along the left fork, and Na Tan Ban Kham is the second you’ll Phon village about 1km along the rightcome to after fork. Both villages are within walking distance of within walking distance of are Both villages Ban the boats terminate; the drink stalls where Tan and the prettier Ban Kham, and Phon and the prettier Tan including meals. costs 50,000K per person, Homestay accommodation is also available Homestay accommodation is also available in Ban Na the cave, side of on the opposite per person, incl dinner & breakfast) in the village. up with a family somewhere fan-cooled rooms near the Nam Hin Bun. fan-cooled rooms near the Nam Hin Bun. say word the Alternatively, wonderfully named ( 0002; r 80,000K) structure. Swiss-lodgelike a two-storey rant looked after by a friendly local family. after rant looked Across the way, ( but tidy fan-cooled rooms and a basic restau- place you’ll come to is original rooms, an additional six riverside six riverside original rooms, an additional being built during our visit. bungalows were Ban Kong Lo, the same outfit runs Sala Kong in addition to the somewhat aged Lor, where to stay in the area. 50,000-250,000K) 40,000K, although need you to order in ad- If you can affordvance. it, this is the best place biggest and most expensive. Lao and most expensive. and Western biggest for about 15,000K to available dishes are Lao-style bathrooms rooms with hot-water the views are and balconies; those river with has 12 comfortable but slightly overpriced has 12 comfortable but slightly overpriced .com; r incl breakfast 240,000-300,000K).com; r incl breakfast SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING AubergesHinboun Sala per person in a group of four/three/two/alone) four/three/two/alone) of in a group per person through be made can Bookings cave. to the the lonelyplanet.com Vientiane; Phon Nyaeng on the banks of the Nam Hin the banks of Nyaeng on Phon Sala Hinboun Bun just past Km 9, Auberges CENTRAL LAOS tively large rooms andacosycommunalarea road, thisfamily-runplacehasdecent, rela- 20,000-40,000K; live musicinthe evenings. can beenjoyedina large diningroomthathas dishes has expanded,and thepretty good Lao Souriya Hotel, restaurant thislong-standing isaround. one else with afireplace, you’llbe luckyifany- though a rooms withcableTV. storey placehas50cleantwinanddouble a ber. Very goodvalue. tocomplementthetim- rooms withcableTV Rte 8andRte 8B,nowhas49clean,spacious located a short walkfromtheintersection of 100,000K; and busstation. ments are ashortwalktoboththemarket lifetimes. Alltheestablish- busy forseveral placestokeep acarpentertimber inthese There’s establishments. high-quality enough more andeating obviousthaninthesleeping this townmadeitsmoneyandit’snowhere where 20/20visiontosee You don’tneed Sleeping &Eating 244 OnlyOne Restaurant OnlyOneRestaurant Hotel Phouthavong VongsoudaGuestHouse Souriya Hotel Souriya you can take abusorsleeperonthe you cantake five hours);there are usuallyfourbusesleavingbetweenaboutnoonand2pm.OnceinVinh improve yourbargaining position. farewhile amotorbike isabout200,000d.Hookupwithasmanyotherpeoplepossibleto reasonable, thoughyou’lldovery welltogetthatprice. Ametered taxicostsUS$35toUS$40 to theirclaims,aminibusVinh doesn’tcostUS$30perperson–aboutUS$5foraseatismore toVinh. Contrary ofpiranhasmasqueradingastransport you’ll bewelcomedbyanassortment p328. see visa arrangedinadvance. Laosissues30-dayvisasattheborder;fordetailsonLaovisas, booth ontheLaoside,thoughrates aren’t generous. You’llneedtohave yourVietnamese anddroppassengersatthetypicallyrelaxedmarket Laoborderpost.There isanexchange 36km fromLakSao. The CROSSING THEVIETNAMESE BORDERAT CAU TREO&NAM PHAO several toberippedoffonthisroute timesthat.Expect (seetheboxed text, p 337 ). country totheborder. ortaxi,butdrivers Itshouldcostabout50,000dbymotorbike willdemand day (70,000d,three hours,70km).FromTay Son,it’sanother25kmthroughsomerichlyforested ) ) About 300mnorthof Rte 8alongadirt Opposite thePhouthavong, thisthree- BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••ThaKhaek PROVINCES abusdirect fromLakSaotoVinhYou canhopefullyavoidtheseguysbytaking (120,000K, Inconveniently, theVietnam borderpost isanother1kmuptheroad,andonceyoupassthis Coming fromVinh, busestoTay Song(formerlyTrungTam) leave regularly throughoutthe Nam Phao (Laos)/Cau Treo border (Vietnam) a ) The ever-expanding Phouthavong, h

( % 7am-10pm) 341 111; Rte 8B;r50,000-80,000K; 341 111;Rte ( % ( % S ( ǎ % 341 074; Rte 8B;r30,000- 341 074;Rte wngth 341 034; Rte 8B;mains 341 034;Rte Located nearthe 020-210 2020;r60,000K; ǎ ew (20,000K, 45minutes) leave every hourorsofromLakSao Reunification Express Vientiane (65,000K, six to eight hours, 334km) hours,Vientiane (65,000K,sixtoeight 334km) leaveBuses fromeastof themarket for the market. dishesaround andVietnamese Lao serve stalls landing for foreign traders. Appropriately, to beareference toitsearlierrole asaboat means‘guestlanding’, believed Tha Khaek the Mekong River 332km southof Vientiane, Idlingattractively ontheeastbankof tral Laos. ever-growing range of adventure travel incen- but relatively foran boringplacetothe base erside town,hasgonefrombeinga charming riv- thearchetypalTha Khaek, somnolentLao Who’d have it?Inacoupleof thought years % ê KHAEK THA (50,000K, five tosixhours, 202km)at7.30am. toThaKhaek and 5pm)onebusgoes 8.30am (between Beng to ViengKham/Thang and Other buses Paksan (50,000K,five tosixhours, 189km). for regular headingsouthorget buses off at to 2½hours, 100km),where youcanchange 30,000K, 1½ (ThangBeng; at ViengKham p ices fromVientiane,see 114 stop buses . These daily at5am,6am,8amand5.30pm.Forserv- &Away There Getting È ¾Á¢¡ Several Several ( 051 /pop78,400 h 7am-4.30pm) small restaurants (www.vr.com.vn) s ǎ is at the Kaew NeuaPass,is attheKaew wngth straighttoHanoi. ǎ (

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CENTRAL LAOS 245 (cnr Th Chao Anou & Th Champa- (cnr Th Kuvoravong & Th Unkham) In the 1960s and early ’70s the city also In the 1960s and early ’70s the city also Sq, few of which have so far been restored. so far been restored. have which of Sq, few The town served as a port, border post and pe- the French during centre administrative Information for minor ailments or commonly seen problems sak) Fine such as malaria serious, or dengue. For anything more head to Thailand. EMERGENCY Police Tha Khaek Hospital riod, when a large number of Vietnamese Vietnamese number of riod, when a large brought in to servewere as administrators. the 1950s and ’60s, during arrived More in North fleeing the Viet Minh movement 1960s Vietnamese Vietnam, and by the late Tha Khaek’s popu- made up about 85% of dropped drastically lation. Their numbers 1970s as many fled another in the late Communist regime. Thais, though these number of a large drew mostly visiting on decadent day trips were The fun stopped when the Northto gamble. Lao cut the roadVietnamese Army and Pathet to Vientiane. PROVINCES Khaek •• Tha KHAMMUAN & BOLIKHAMSAI

The dog trade actually begins in northeastern Thailand, where stray dogs are caught on a caught on a stray dogs are in northeastern where actually dog trade Thailand, begins The that Rae province in Nakhon brought to Tha Thai the eventually Phanom, caught dogs are The the dogs can be worth Arriving in Vietnam, price for which they as much as 10 times the by journalists report and video on the dog trade in Thailand four-partA investigative DOG TRUCKS cages carrying eastbound lorries likelyencounter to time on Rte spend enough If you 8 you’re but for the local humane society, bound aren’t And no, these dogs of dogs. filled with hundreds in Vietnam. plates destined for dinner rather are actu- Thais vast majority of The consider a local mafia. what locals and journalists daily basis by the trade nonetheless, alerting to but contribute idea of eating dog meat, ally eschew the dog illegal, trade is technically The cash or plastic buckets. dogs in exchange for catchers of stray trade or illegal look the other way, claiming that enforcing the drug but local police choose to use of their resources. immigration is a better held in pens, graded temporarily they are Khaek, Tha where opposite borders the Mekong River loaded onto a truck. cages and being packed A typical truck can into wire by quality, before trucks then The cage. dogs crammed into each or more with five hold as many as 1000 dogs, via Rte 8 that can take up to two a journey to Vietnam beginning cross the Mekong on a barge, die along the way. during the trip, and many water or given fed dogs aren’t The days. or three and the sight of dead dogs and the one of these trucks during our research We encountered of howling and fighting was coupled with the constant sound smell of dog fur and excrement that the trucks pass every claimed A man we spoke border with Vietnam to near the disturbing. four trucks,’ he added. single day. ‘Some days I see that this particular It’s estimated making Thailand, obtained in highly lucrative. the trade were cross-border trade in dog meat is worth US$3.6 million a year. Wedel can be seen at www.globalpost.com/dispatch/thailand/091123/ Winn and Pailin Patrick eating-dogs-dog-meat-mafia-capture. It’s busier around the markets, and trafficIt’s busier around the markets, Particularly around the old town near the around Particularly History French colonial construction in 1911–12. colonial construction in 1911–12. French in the this period can be found of Evidence slowly decaying buildings around Fountain ruled by King Suryavarman (r AD 578–614), (r AD 578–614), ruled by King Suryavarman Tha Khaek roots to traces its present-day Once an outpost of the Mon-Khmer Funan Once an outpost of when it was known as and Chenla empires, Sri Gotapura (Sikhottabong in Lao) and was The population is mostly Lowland Lao, Thai and Vietnamese. between Vietnam and Thailand is increasing. between Vietnam and Thailand is increasing. it that) of the old town is the modest fountain the it that) of Th Kuvoravong end of at the western square beer shops near here Riverside near the river. a good place for sundowners. are shading quiet streets and no one seemingshading quiet streets in any (if you can call particular hurry. The epicentre tecture, mixed with newer structures, is similar with newer structures, mixed tecture, to that found in Savannakhet, with tall trees riverfront, the survivingriverfront, Franco-Chinese archi- the capital of Khammuan Province is a place Khammuan Province the capital of comfortable. you can soon feel where lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS Lao Development Bank Lao Development BCEL MONEY Wangwang hour. mately 10am to10pmandcharge 6000Kper internet connection.Bothare openapproxi- Anou, northof Sq,offering Fountain decent There are acoupleof placesonThChao INTERNET 246 Vientiane andatFountain Sq. There are alsoBCELATMsMasterCard. east alongTh further exchange boothandcan providecashadvancesonVisaand Changes cash andoffers cashadvances onVisaand 6000K; well asmotorcyclerental (seep 249 ). 66 4 1 2 3 H KHAEK THA

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a ( a The bright blue exterior of this The brightof blue exterior % ) ( ) Privatisation of public assets in Laos has ) Motel-style place with clean rooms and TV. Inthira Hotel a a aW Other hotels include the following: Other hotels o Hotel Riveria Southida Guest House Southida Phonepadidh Guesthouse Mekong Hotel opened this former government guesthouse to everyone. 120,000K; 100,000K; Kuvoravong; r 50,000-70,000K; of the cheapest in town, which makes up for the lack of and the dubious plumbing. any atmosphere Thipphachanh Guesthouse Eating & Drinking Several res- guesthouses also have and hotels Hotel, taurants, in the Mekong with kitchens .com; Th Setthathirat; r US$40-55, ste US$75-95; offers and poshest hotel Tha Khaek’s largest of all the mod cons you’d expect in a hotel except perhaps a pool. The this price range, balconies in virtually every room river-view up for this. to make perhaps an attempt are Khammuane Inter Guest House Sooksomboon Hotel Thakhek Mai 1200B; on the hotel Vietnamese-run, four-storey to miss. Rooms are is impossible riverfront value. Fair well-equipped if a bit dim. US$20-28; com; Th Chao Anou; r incl breakfast shophouse colonial-era is This refurbished easily Tha Khaek’s most stylish place to stay. at- rooms offer loftlike The high-ceilinged as exposed such brick, teak touches tractive furnishings and rain shower balconies, and have rooms face the street rooms can be a bit dark. while the cheaper for those who need wi-fi to be free There's of is one online, and the attached restaurant in town. consistent the more r 80,000-130,000K; r 80,000-130,000K; with cable TVclean rooms two- in a modern least one at Most rooms have building. storey so ask can vary considerably, balcony, but size to see several. Setthathirat; r 80,000-100,000K; just offcomplex, in a quiet courtyard Th clean but new and featureless Vientiane, offers and hot-water rooms with air-conditioning showers. r 80,000-120,000K; right on the Mekong, the exterior than the promises more faux–artsurreal deco interior delivers. front and Fountain Sq, the Southida has front and Fountain has Sq, the Southida

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020-9988 9789; Phoukhanna Guesthouse

Thakhek Travel Lodge Green Discovery % restaurant (open 7.30am to 11pm, mains (open 7.30am to 11pm, mains restaurant 15,000K to 30,000K) serves Western a mix of good reviews. food and gets and Asian those in the newer building at the back, which those in the newer building at the back, which The better. and generally quieter bigger, are r 35,000-80,000K; via the adjacent Mr Ku’s Motorbike Rental via the adjacent Mr Ku’s Motorbike (p 249 ). the latest feedback on The Loop (see the boxed on The Loop (see feedback the latest the boxed is also available ). Motorcycle hire 252 p text, fire, decent food and coffee are other draws, are decent food and coffee fire, has book, which topped off by the travellers’ welcoming staff. camp-style The internet, laotel.com; dm 25,000K, r 50,000-110,000K; nearly 3km away from Tha Khaek’s atmos- is the Lodge pheric old town, but the Travel at- for its easy with travellers clear favourite decent food, 17 clean rooms and mosphere, big town to the vast Nam Theun 2 dam site, big town to the vast Nam Theun 2 dam site, rooms. of small range Tha Khaek has a pretty Perhaps surprisingly, given it is the nearest it is the nearest surprisingly, given Perhaps boxed text, p 48 ) grounds. 48 p text, boxed ( Sleeping lar Thakhek Travel Lodge (p 247 ), a more ), a more 247 (p Lodge lar Thakhek Travel option is the nearby convenient exchange for the purchase of Beerlao for the purchase of exchange or staying at the popu- other drinks. If you’re Field Linly more active, the town has an abundance the town has an abundance active, more organised of if you’re looking for something (slightly) looking for something (slightly) if you’re Other than wandering the streets and soak- wandering the streets Other than not a lot there’s ing up the atmosphere, occupied in Tha Khaek, you to keep but Sights & Activities day trips to Tham Kong Lo (p 242 ) or multi- 242 Tham Kong Lo (p day trips to Khammuan’s NPAs. of in three day treks Inthira Hotel, Th Chao Anou; Inthira Hotel, Th and can arrange Hotel the Inthira the lobby of to coordinate with other travellers. with to coordinate Khaekmassage best to the town’s options. size, on group vary depending prices trek As it’s worth calling lonelyplanet.com woman manager gives this place an easy- gives woman manager without Simple rooms going atmosphere. 35,000K, but the pick are bathrooms are to each other two blocks south of Fountain Fountain other two blocks south of to each Sq, let you use and boules in their pitches CENTRAL LAOS the riverfront, this place does adelicious the riverfront, thisplacedoes 15,000-130,000K; restaurants upalongtheMekong, set the the local youth. pop andsomecheesy Western classicswith getting downtolots of Thaipop,abitof Lao out ifyouhave plentyof energy and fancy night this placecanbeafunLao Guest House, Disco Phudoi Entertainment There’s alsoafullystocked bar. lessauthenticpizzas. dishestoslightly Lao tures fromreasonably everything authentic ChaiDeu(p in Vientiane’sKhop 107 ), fea- ently solidfood.Themenu,withitsorigins puts outsomeof thetown’smostconsist- to eat,thechefs inthekitchen of thishotel being thetown’sonlydesign-consciousplace change andDVDsforsale. abookex- tunedtotheBBC, dishes, aTV a shortmenuof decentWestern andlocal 10pm) is more popular. foodorthekaraokeknow whetherthetasty has alandlubbers’ venue aswell.It’shardto Smile Bargesosuccessfulitnow hasbeen 40,000K; dishes; theicecream isalsopretty good. amixof andLao Thai,Thai-Chinese serving garden orindoors, thisisapopularplace 35,000K; for theblueETLsign. There’s noEnglish-language signhere, solook butnobroth). various herbsandseasonings hàeng sticky ricefornexttonomoney. vourites such as fa- alongside theriver, Lao ifyoufancytasty h Kong). goat (Khem in duck(MsNoy,MsKay andMsMo) (mains 10,000-20,000K; tures outdoor several strip directly southof market thenight fea- andtheadjacentwaterfront evening, Sq every market miniscule night unfoldsatFountain TravelThakhek Mai. Lodge andThakhek A 248 Kesone Restaurant Restaurant Kesone Sabaidee Thakhaek SabaideeThakhaek Restaurant Inthira Restaurant SmileBarge DucRestaurant Localfoodplace 7am-7pm)

BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••ThaKhaek PROVINCES The classictravellers’ cafe, thisplacehas (dry rice noodles served inabowlwith (dry ricenoodlesserved h h 9.30am-11.30pm) noon-1am) Head to thebusylocalfoodplace, ( h h 8pm-midnight) (mains 15,000K; pîng kai 7am-10pm;

(Th ChaoAnou;mains5000-10,000K; (Th h

( % One of floating several (mains 15,000-45,000K; ( % 11am-11pm) 251 237;ThChaoAnou;mains grilled meatrestaurants grilled ( % With dininginthe (grilled chicken) and 212 563;mains15,000- W Behind thePhudoi Behind 212 150;meals15,000- h ) In additionto specialising 6am-10pm) h On 7am- f ǒ e

(25,000K, twotothree hours, 125km)de- for Hué(85,000K)leaves Monday, every 482km), on the Cambodian border.482km), ontheCambodian Theystop (75,000K,about16hours, for NongKhiang about 15hours, 452km)andaround5.30pm (75,000K, at around5pmforDonKhong originatinginVientianeleave11pm. Buses (75,000K, about10hours) at3.30pmand There are twodailydepartures to Attapeu sonably frequent noonandmidnight. between southbound are8.30am. Otherwise, buses rea- hours, 368km)at(60,000K, sixtoseven and there’s anair-con departure forPakse part at10.30am,11am,11.30amandnoon, p fromVientiane,see buses 114 . (40,000K, three tofourhours, 193km).For (30,000K, three hours, 149km)orPaksan 25,000K, 90minutes, 102km),Pak Kading (ThangBeng; north stopsatViengKham hourorso. every Savannakhet Anybusgoing stopenroute fromPakse buses midnight and parture at9.15am(70,000K).From9amto 7am, 8.30amand9am,aswellaVIPde- originate at4am,5.30am, inThaKhaek buses For Vientiane(50,000K,sixhours, 332km), goingnorthandsouth. the regular services market tocomplement andbasicguesthouses from thecentre of townandhasasizeable Khaek’s Tha BUS &Away There Getting Na Phao (35,000K, 3½hours, 142km).There 18kmshortofKhang, theVietnam border at departures at8.15amand noonforLang (35,000K, twohours, 80km).There are daily (30,000K, 1½totwo hours, 63km)andNakai (15,000K, onehour,50km),Gnommalath 7amand3pm forMahaxaior sobetween Mai Along Rte 12, Provinceinto theKhammuan interior. S Lak S S on TuesdayandSaturday. Sunday, andforHanoi (160,000K)at8pm 7pm onMonday,Wednesday,Fridayand to DongHoi(130,000K,1014hours) at MondayandFridayat8pm, (110,000K) every at 8pm.There are alsodepartures forDanang Tuesday, Wednesday,SaturdayandSunday tobeinahurry. you’d need 5pmand6pm,but between at ThaKhaek ǎ Ǎ wngth Heading forSavannakhet south,buses If you’re headingtoVietnam,abus WNGTH ǎ am ǎ ew

(Sook SomBoonBusTerminal) Ǎ EW bus station depart whenfullfromtheTalat s ǎ wngth

(Rte 13) (Rte ǎ ew leave hour every lonelyplanet.com isabout3.5km CENTRAL LAOS 249 internet shop also shop internet stupa which stands stupa which in Laos, Sikhottabong

(Buddha Cave; admission 2000K; 8am-9pm) 8am-9pm) . thâat h (temple hall) on the temple hall) on the temple (temple built by King Nanthasen during Tham Fa Pa an ǎ thâat thâat wih Pha That Sikhottabong 8am-noon & 1-5pm) Mr Bun Nong, now deceased, became a It’s hard to say exactly how long the Buddha A is an interesting to the temple Adjacent hero in Ban Na Kan Sarng because the village Sarng becausehero in Ban the village Na Kan his discovery. is now living fat off the fruits of selling and a market Electricity has arrived is products to visitors food, drinks and forest And perhaps bringing much-needed income. he was hoping to make a dinner of the bats a dinner of he was hoping to make Instead he’d seen the rock face. flying out of mouth and, step- cave a narrow he discovered by beyond, was greeted ping into the cavern The Buddhas, 229 bronze Buddha images. ranging from 15cm to about 1m tall, were sitting as they had been for centuries facing limestone impressive of a cave the entrance of formations. It took him a week but Mr Bun Nong eventually told friends in the nearby Sarng and the cave Ban Na Kan of village was named h but experts think they been there, have images their old. Whatever than 600 years more are for site has become a pilgrimage the cave age, Buddhists from around Laos and Thailand. was first renovated by King Setthathirat by King in renovated was first it assumed its current the 16th century, when in the 1950s form. It was again restored general It’s the site in the 1970s. augmented and later February. each festival a major of King Anouvong by the order of constructed (Chao Anou). nine wooden open-air museum of consisting houses showing the various traditional archi- Khammuan Province. styles of tectural (Buddha Cave)Tham Pa Fa usedWhen Mr Bun Nong a vine to scramble 15m up a sheer 200m-high cliff in April 2004, day 70,000-110,000K; day 70,000-110,000K; motorcycles. hires THAAROUND KHAEK Pha That Sikhottabong vener- much town is the 6km south of About ated a 6th- to 10th- of on the site stupa was erected century a principal- a time when Tha Khaek was part of the ity called Si Khotabun. one of Considered most important in the grounds of a 19th-century monastery monastery a 19th-century of in the grounds the to local lore According the same name. of grounds contains a large seated Buddha, seated Buddha, grounds contains large a 30am-3pm 30am-3pm immigra- . 8 h 020-220 5070; per day (

are about 400m about 400m are %

( (Fountain Sq; per day 100,000K;

020-5697 8535; Fountain Sq; per to Tham Kong Lo. , located at Thakhek Travel at Thakhek, located Travel 8am-6pm) % ew ( PROVINCES Khaek •• Around Tha & KHAMMUAN BOLIKHAMSAI

ǎ h (

has a few motorcycles for hire, motorcycles for hire, has a few 7am-7pm)

at the immigration office. In Thai- at the immigration office. wngth h ǎ s

In Tha Khaek, Lao immigration issues Khaek,In Tha Lao immigration issues Wangwang 6am-9pm) 30-day tourist visas on arrival and there’s a a and there’s 30-day tourist visas on arrival money exchange service north of Fountain Sq and boats travel in north in travel of Fountain Sq and boats half-hour every roughly both directions to 6pm. From from 8am to noon and 1pm costs 15,000K, while from Laos, the ferry weekends On Nakhon it’s 60B. Phanom and you’ll be boats might be less frequent asked for an extra 10,000K on the Lao side, and an extra 10B in Thailand. Mon-Fri) tion office Crossing the Mekong from Tha Khaek to Khaek the Mekong from Tha Crossing to On is simple. Nakhon in Thailand Phanom boat landing and the Lao side, the CROSSING THE THAI BORDER AT AT BORDER THAI THE CROSSING KHAEK & THA NAKHON PHANOM land, it’s a 30B share tuk-tuk ride to the bus ride to the bus tuk-tuk land, it’s a 30B share Nakhon buses leave station, from where and Bang- (regular) for Udon Thani Phanom 7pm to 8pm). kok (at 7.30am and from Phavilai Restaurant There are now a handful of places around a handful of now are There Mr Ku’s Motorbike Rental Getting Around and h ice and the quality of the 110cc Korean bikes. bikes. the 110cc Korean ice and the quality of ac- a relatively Mr Ku has also put together text, The Loop (see map of the boxed curate p 252 ). 100,000K; serv- for both good reviews ) gets 247 (p Lodge Information Centre (p 246 ) carries a com- 246 Information Centre (p list. prehensive town offering motorbike hire; the Tourism hire; motorbike town offering Rides around town can cost from 5000K to 10,000K per person. unless they’re full or you’re willing to fork full or you’re unless they’re vehicle. the entire charter 50,000K to over From the bus terminal, jumbos don’t budge jumbos don’t budge From the bus terminal, It should cost about 15,000K to hire a jumbo It should cost about 15,000K to hire (motorised taxi) three-wheeled to the bus though need you’ll terminal, to negotiate. Kham to four (Ban Na Hin; 50,000K, three in time for the should arrive which hours), 10am (40,000K, five to six hours) and there’s also a and there’s to six hours) (40,000K, five for Ban Khounsingle daily 7.30am departure are departures at 8am and noon for Bualapha departures are lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS along Rte (east)atKm29 13andturn right rible, it’sgoingto bequite a trip.Head north given you’re not acrowandtheroadister- northeast of asthecrowflies, but ThaKhaek Fishing isbanned. wooden footbridge, andnotinthelake itself. the stream thatflowsfromthelake, nearthe the lake. Once youget approval, onlyswimin must askatthevillage before swimmingin ask visitors tofollowafew rules.First, you thelake believe NaKheu issacredBan and moon each month.Villagers fromnearby that describesagongsoundingonthefull lake isreputed tobe70mdeep. clear.limestone, makingthewater crystal The subterranean river thatfilters the through The luminescentgreen waters springfroma the stunninglybeautiful‘Evening GongLake’. southern reaches of thePhu HinBunNPA is Nestled amidthelimestonekarsts of the ¢ KongLeng Khoun cave, reached viaawet,swampywalk. of US$34).Bothstopatabeautifulswimming or more/three/two/alone plusgroupsurcharge (US$30/38/54/102 perperson inagroupof four (p 247 ) runsaDiscover BuddhaCave daytour three tofive/two/alone) andGreen Discovery 300,000/370,000K perperson inagroupof runs aone-dayBuddhaCave trek (250,000/ (p246) TourismInformationCentre Khaek’s depending onyourbargaining skills.Tha tuks willdothereturn tripforaboutUS$20 bridges remain. border, buthere onlyacoupleof concrete tothe sidethelinerunsright the Vietnamese when moneyranoutintheearly1920s.On abandoned and Vietnamthatwaseventually French scheme aimedatconnectingThailand the cave alongwhatremains of a left-hand side. Hand-painted signsleadto 4km andlookforalarge green signonthe After crossingRteKhaek. 13,continueabout practical, butit’shideoustoo. leadingtothecavestaircase isundoubtedly of NaKan Ban Sarng…mostly.Theconcrete isaforceforgoodinthecase would seem, that much easierforthelocals.Tourism,it cave site toRte 12hasmadegoinganywhere best of allthenewlaterite roadlinkingthe 250 Ý $¡º¤Áì¤ Tham Pa Fa isabout18kmfromTha isonlyabout30km KongLeng Khoun isnamed after a legend KongLeng Khoun If youdon’thave yourowntransport,tuk- BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••AroundThaKhaek PROVINCES railway line , a also The first cave is «Õ§ (p 246). TourismInformationCentre by ThaKhaek’s group of three tofive/two/alone) that'srun (250,000/300,000/370,000K perperson ina canbevisitedthe sights onthedaytrip bicycle orhired motorcycle. Alternatively, jagged karst peaks. There are of thousands and caves, cliffs sheer Rtes 12and8easttowardsRtetween 8B. Limestone area, which stretches be- roughly a look.Thisispartof thevastKhammuan a coupleof swimmingspotsthatare worth caves,several anabandonedrailwaylineand of Rte 12eastof isanarea ThaKhaek with theboxed(see text, p 252 ), thefirst 22km Whether asadaytriporpartof TheLoop 12 East onRte (p246) andGreen Discovery (p247). TourismInformationCentre Tha Khaek’s trek intothePhu HinBunNPA runbyboth day trip,orisoneof thestopsontwo-day It’s another1kmtothelake. lages for16kmuntilyoureach NaKheu. Ban again, andbumpupover vil- hillsandthrough onto adirtroad.After (south) 2km,turnright (south) onto adirtroadshortly after abridge. try continuingalong Rte 12 andturnright be toofloodedto crossatall.Inthiscase, tocrossariver need by foot,oritmight might you keep following theroad.Inwetseason thelargesee cave –just mouthinthedistance about 2.5kmeastof theRte 13junction.You’ll improved. revered It’s been since. ever head miraculouslyappeared andvillage health with dynamite. Soonafter thistheelephant’s had togoandpromptlyblewitsmithereens head lage in1956thelocalsdecidedevil spirit, butwhenawave of sickness hitthevil- toavoidthemonster’s upsetting were observed monster’s head. Various anevil semble taboos tore-home toalimestoneformationbelieved sually lively recent 1956itwas history.Before take Thiscave atorch (flashlight). has anunu- small passage behindthelarge goldenBuddha; stalagmite ‘elephanthead’,which isalonga nearby village of Tham. Ban THAM XANG (THAM PHA BANTHAM) forkTo findThamXang,take the right placescanbereachedAll these bytuk-tuk, canbevisited asaone- KongLeng Khoun

known asThamPha Thamafter the Ban É ¾¤ («Õ²½® É ¾$«Õ) Tham Xang Tham (ElephantCave),

It’s famousforits lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS Nam 251 (hall) sala , with an en- with her and flirt- (nang) Tham Pha Chan , a cave where the Nam Don where , a cave – thus it’s the Cave of Sitting Sitting of – thus it’s the Cave ¤Ä³ ˜ $$ÕÂ©´ ÷ $/¢ × (aen kan) , about 18km from Tha Khaek. Much con- Tha Khaek. 18km from , about Much The turn-off to the cave is indicated by a is indicated to the cave The turn-off Not far from Tham Pha Chan is the from Tham Pha Not far to these getting sightsUnfortunately, isn’t The cave’s name is also related to the to the is also related name The cave’s THAM PHA CHAN & & CHAN PHA THAM and Flirting. and Flirting. deteriorates quite badly. quite deteriorates Tham Lot Se Bang Fai «Õìº©À§® and Almost certainly the most impressive, in Khammuan is the cave yet least-visited to the far side. At its western end there is a end there At its western to the far side. about in a crevice sandalwood Buddha image name, the ground, hence the cave’s 15m above meaning Sandalwood Buddha Cave. Don Resurgence a physical from the ground. It’s quite emerges marvel to see coming up and out the water and the lagoon that sits at the from the cave, is a beautiful the tall limestone karst bottom of swimming spot. accessed via a rougheasy. They are road that the runs 9km north from about 10km east of tuk- 13. Go by motorbike, junction with Rte an English-speaking guide tuk or arrange through Tha Khaek’s Tourist Information ). In the wet season this road 246 Centre (p clear sign just past a left-hand bend 16km bend 16km clear sign just past a left-hand 13. The 700m- Rte from the junction with long track should be passable at all but the times, when you’ll needwettest to park and The pitiful ‘zoo’ near wade across the stream. to people who don’t the entrance will appeal animals. like «Õ²½¥ trance 60m high A and about 100m wide. runs about 600m through a limestone stream and in the dry seasonkarst it’s possible to walk 5pm) has been here the limestone added to crete wooden thoughthankfully the large the cave the front of views of that obstructed been torn down. You certainly has recently here, person first the you’re like won’t feel you’ll be able to seebut at least as it’s inside well lit. pretty Tham monk of the sneaky novice of legend tracked is believed to have Xieng Liap. He the entrance to this down his beautiful girl at sitting before cave ing Further afield is THE NAM DON RESURGENCE THE NAM

, the Paa 8am- h Tham Fa Pa who was sneak- and Tham Liap Xieng (Laotian rock rat). $) Ø (Tham Phanya Inh). Inh). (Tham Phanya (admission 10,000K; (xieng) old railway (French Landing) on the (French khan you khan in the cave looking for the in the cave PROVINCES Khaek •• Around Tha & KHAMMUAN BOLIKHAMSAI (liap) $ («Õ²½¨¾º Ø Tham Pha Sa In Tha Falang Tham Nang Aen ¤ „ (soft-shelled turtles) live in the cave, while in the cave, turtles) live (soft-shelled Back or continue east 12 you can Rte on ¾±ì È This rarely visited Buddhist holy cave is said Buddhist holy cave visited This rarely touristy «Õ$¾¤Áº$ 12 is the Rte of along this stretch The last cave faded brick gateway. NANG AEN THAM to have magical healing powers; swimming is magical healing powers; to have look for the no sign here; not allowed. There’s north to Rte 13) and immediately beyond a track leads 13) and immediately Rte «Õ¦½²¾º beautiful daughter of a local hermit; he even- beautiful daughter of her down at Tham Nang Aen. tually tracked is about 200m long and, in the dry The cave INH) PHANYA IN (THAM SA PHA THAM the cliffs outside are saidthe cliffs to be home to the re- are outside cently discovered ing around season, you can walk/wade through and swim valley on the far side. in the picturesque faa 300m-high cliff. It’s named for a legendary monk former novice the stunning limestone cave the stunning limestone cave a dramatic is at the base which of entrance of With high cliffs 12 continues either side, Rte through a narrow pass (about 11.5km from the Huay Xieng Liap and the village of Ban of the Huay Xieng Liap and the village Songkhone 13), to Rte (about 10.5km from Follow the clear sign indicating the track head- Follow the clear sign indicating over ing south for about 400m, near the bridge THAM XIENG LIAP THAM çÕ§¼¤ì¼® as attractive, especially in the dry season.as attractive, In the wet season a probably need you’ll to hire Xieng Liap bridge small boat from near the there. to get Tha Falang is much more easily accessed than more is much Tha Falang ) but is not nearly 250 Khoun Kong Leng (see p colonials used to picnic and, during the wet season, enough is a nice swim. place for a scenic Nam Don (Don River). Tha Falang Tha Falang River). scenic Nam Don (Don where on a stream a wooded area features trail leads 2km north to the water-sculpted north to the water-sculpted trail leads 2km rocks at ê (p 249 ). THA FALANG 13) a rough from Rte At Km 11 (about 9km turn north to the to the turn north lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS 252 House Vietnam andtheexpansive 12turn-offto ofKm55istheRte Maioffers ofMahaxai anotheroption.Justnorth 15km north Tha Lang River) viaanewbridge,you’llarrive intiny before theroadcrossesNamTheun (Theun toseesuccessive start disaster zonecreated bytherecent floodingoftheNamTheun 2damonyourright.You’llalso and refuel atthepetrolstation. yourbike 50,000/80,000K; Maithere are ofMahaxai twobasicguesthouses, north iswhere40km fromTha Khaek, you’llfindaccommodationoptionsforthislegoftheloop.Just visiting thecaves andswimmingspotsontheway.The of 20kmstretch north travellers’ Travel bookatThakhek Lodge(p 247 ) before youheadoff. circuit. It’salsoprobablyagoodideatositdownwithcoldBeerlaoandtheever-expanding map ofThe Tourism InformationCentre Loop.Tha Khaek’s (p 246 ) canalsoprovide adviceonthe want toseeTham KongLoandhave timetofindyourself after beinglost. available inmostvillagesalongtheway.Give yourselfatleastthree days,thoughfourisbetter ifyou Provinces.and Bolikhamsai The tripispossiblebybicycle,butbestdoneonamotorbike. Fuel is circuitthroughsomeofthemoreThe Loopisanoff-the-beaten-track remote ofKhammuan parts LOOP THE 145km back to Tha Khaek. Good luck! 145km back toTha Khaek. it’saboutfor details. Kham FromBanKhoun base fortripsinto tion andheapsofaccommodation andisthe stopping foralookatthebombboats. Nam Theun at ing hillsofdeepforest, andcrossesthewide ononeside,intowind- of impregnable karst a videogame–theroadrunsbetween walls stepping islike into (BanNaHin) Kham Khoun 8betweenLakSaoandBanof smoothRte repairs.place ifyouneedbike the56km Riding and foodare availablehere, andit’salsoagood to whichever godyou’re into. Accommodation (p 243 ) you(andyourbutt)willoffer upthanks dry seasonthisstretch tookusabouttwohours. youtotheNamTheuntake 2damsite). Inthe (theleftforkwill straightatthejunction keep Theun NBCAand Phu BunNPA. Hin After 17km rocky inplaces. This stretch isstunningasyoudrive throughthecorridorbetweenNakai-Nam MaitoBanTha Langtookusabouttwohours.From Mahaxai Restaurant, isyourlastchanceforaccommodationbefore thevery roughstretch toLakSao. taurant at can refuel yourbodyat straightfor3kmto road splitsatabusyvillagecalledBanOudomsouk;keep bit ofpaved roadyou’llhave thepleasure ofridingonuntilLakSao. At thetopofhill there’s petrolandbasicfood,you’llreach along thisstretch ofThe Loop. BOLIKHAMSAI &KHAMMUAN ••TheLoop PROVINCES Once you’ve gotyourwheels,spenddayoneheading MrKu(p In additiontoproviding transportation, 249 ) hasputtogetherareasonably accurate The 23kmisadisturbingcorridorofpristinejungleonyourleftandtheenvironmental next BanKhounKham When youfinallyhitthetarmacat After crossingthe bridgeatBanTha Longit’sabout60kmtoLakSaoalongaroadthat’spretty Cniun past Continuing

( % , where a shockingly basic , where ashockingly Linxomphou Resort-Night Club 020-5663 5555;fan/air-con40,000/90,000K; Tha Bak a ) Tham KongLo and Gnommalath (p 241 ) hasapetrolsta- (p 243 ), where it’sworth bâan jatsàn, Mahaxai MaiMahaxai Houaphou Restaurant Nam Theun 2Main Camp , an additional 5km north of the Rte 12intersection, where oftheRte , anadditional5kmnorth –seep 242 tidyvillagescreated forthosedisplacedbytheflooding. Just

guesthouse Lak Sao ( % 020-216 4453;r50,000K)

( Nam Theun 2PowerStation % ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ

020-5458 4453;fan/air-con50,000/80,000K; ( (Thang Beng) (282km) Vientiane To Vieng Kham % a

(r 60,000K) 12miles 20km 0 0 051-620 111;mains18,000-70,000K; ) is probablyoneofthebetter placestostay 13 THAILAND , acrossfromwhich

Namsanam

Sala Viewpoint Mekong River Mekong Maniphone east onRte 12 Direction of route Tat , acrossfromthesignedSaynamtom

Ban Khoun Kham

Border Crossing . The cementbungalowsandres- Nam (Ban Na Hin)

Tha Bak

Nyuang Hin Bun Hin Nam

Phu

Bun ( % Limestone Caves (p 250 ) fromTha Khaek,

Tha Khaek Lak Sao(Xao)

Hot Springs& Tham PaFa Resort-Night Nam Linxomphou 020-215 8699;fan/air-con and virtually thelast andvirtually Kong Lo Tham

Mahaxai MaiMahaxai

Club

Falang Phothavong Guest Tha Kading Guest House Phothavong Nakai, Nakai,

Ban Tiou Nang Aen Tham Mahaxai Mai Guest House VIETNAM

Mahaxai Mai lonelyplanet.com 12 h Guest House Maniphone 8 8B a

Ban Tha Lang where you Power Station Nam Theun2 7am-10pm) Gnommalath Nam Theun2 Theun Dam Main Camp ) , about , about Nam Crossing (86km) Border Ban To CENTRAL LAOS

dok dok 253 Cha Lo/Na Phao Cha Lo/Na Phao (p 246 ), which is in the is in the ), which 246 (p

to Bualapha (40,000K, to Bualapha (40,000K, ew ǎ wngth (Westerners) the (Westerners) ǎ s (mini tractor) the remaining 14km 14km (mini tractor) the remaining falang Getting to Tham Lot is no easy task, and Getting no easy task, to Tham Lot is and day trek (US$135/169/237/441 per person per person (US$135/169/237/441 day trek four or more/three/two/alone, in a group of US$147) that in- of plus a group surcharge homestay, camping, exploring Hin volves in in- the cave and traversing Namno NPA flatable kayaks. nature of the cave make exploring it an ex- make the cave of nature both that requires endeavour peditionlike experienced guides and proper equipment. booking an or- For now, we recommend ganised tour through Tha Khaek’s Tourism Information Centre establishing a four-day, of initial stages (US$145/185/300 the cave trip to three-night six to eight/three in a group of per person to exploring the In addition to five/two). in wooden canoes, this includes activi- cave Reusi ties ranging from exploring Tham Pha to fishing NPA in Hin Namno and trekking a guide known by with locals. Phetmexay, his nickname Ey, is familiar with the area Discovery Green and comes recommended. a three- at least, also offers ), in theory 247 (p 2km downstream from the cave entrance. entrance. the cave from 2km downstream homestay accom- can provide here Villagers to isn’t expected modation, but electricity until 2012. the village reach (at 8am and two daily taking of one involves noon) a chartering before hours) four to five dok to Ban Nong Ping (600,000K round trip, in- Although visiting the cave 1½ hours). be included dependently could ostensibly of as a (rather time-consuming) extension the logistics text), The Loop (see the boxed least substantial, quite and at the very are It’s you’d need fairly fluent Lao. to speak any also worth mentioning that the lack of the dangerous and tourism infrastructure , is dry year- . Located at the at the . Located remains one of the least-used and most inconvenient of all Laos’s borders. of all Laos’s borders. and most inconvenient one of the least-used remains Tham Pha Reusi PROVINCES Khaek •• Around Tha & KHAMMUAN BOLIKHAMSAI 7am-4pm) from Tha Khaek (45,000K, 3½ to four hours, 142km) at 8.15am and noon bound for Khaekfrom Tha bound for at 8.15am and noon 3½ to four hours, 142km) (45,000K, h ew (

ǎ Tham Lot Se Bang Fai On the Vietnam side the nearest sizeable city is Dong Hoi. A bus does run directly between between city is Dong Hoi. A bus does run directly sizeable nearest side the On the Vietnam wngth ǎ crossing This is partly because transport on both sides is slow and infrequent, though there are two daily two daily is partlyThis are because transport though there slow and infrequent, on both sides is s CROSSING THE VIETNAMESE BORDER AT CHA LO & NA PHAO LO & NA CHA AT BORDER VIETNAMESE THE CROSSING fact the for Rte that Despite is now fully paved, 12 Tha Khaek and Dong Hoi (130,000K, 10 to 14 hours), leaving Tha Khaek at 7pm on Monday, Khaek KhaekTha Tha and Dong Hoi (130,000K, 10 to 14 hours), leaving at 7pm on Monday, makingWednesday, Friday and Sunday, way to cross this border. this the most logical Lang Khang, 18km short of the border. If you’re determined to cross here, take early depar- the here, to cross determined If you’re Lang Khang, short 18km border. of the certainly and you’ll almost wait a while to in the area no accommodation have as there’s ture for transportthe border. all the way to The base for visiting the cave is Ban Nong The base for visiting the cave Traversing the entire cave involves eight eight involves cave the entire Traversing The earliest record of Tham Lot Se Tham of Bang The earliest record A branch of the Tham Lot Se Bang Fai, the Lot SeA branch of Tham Bang Fai, Ping, a mixed Lao about Ping, a mixed Loum/Salang village but until a designated walkway is created, walkway is created, but until a designated being permanently risk of they stand a huge destroyed by tourists. If you do visit Tham not to walk on or touch Reusi, be sure Pha these formations. trance, a 1km walk uphill from the entrance trance, a 1km walk uphill from the entrance home is Se Tham Lot The cave of Bang Fai. formations, to some stunning porcelainlike known locally as en- round and is accessible via an alternative season, from January to March. Local wooden to March. season, from January canoes portage, can only go as far as the first making inflatable about 1km into the cave, rafts or kayaks the only practical option for the cave. length of the entire traversing portages and is only possible during the dry and is only possible during the dry portages Chi Minh Trail and locals left their homes and to escape American bomb- in the cave lived mapped wasn’t professionally ing. The cave until 2006, and the Canadian/American that led the expedition concluded that Tham Lot caves river Se is among the largest Bang Fai in the world. 21 hours. During the Second21 hours. War, Indochina the Ho conduit of was a the surrounding area French explorer who traversed the length of the length of who traversed explorer French taking raft, allegedly on a bamboo the cave Fai goes back to 1905 with details about a Fai underground trail of immense caverns, im- immense caverns, trail of underground rock formations, rapids and water- pressive been seen falls that have by only a handful visitors. foreign of edge of Hin Namno NPA, the cave is the is the the cave Hin Namno NPA, of edge plunging 6.5km Se river of Bang Fai result through an a limestone mountain, leaving amazing lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS since Laos’s second bridge across theMekong second since Laos’s the land that timeforgot, change has come spending moneyontheirupkeep. start such colonialreminders andisunlikely to years; thegovernment about isunsentimental of buildingswillbelostinthecoming these forlorn appearance. Unfortunately, many unfailingly appealingdespite theirevermore treestall shading French-era buildings thatare erside centre retains alanguidambience, with south of daysthecity’sriv- Vientiane. These their largest tradingandadministrative centre theFrenchportance towhatwas attached of asreminders of serve Savannakhet theim- The slowlycrumbling colonial-erabuildings % ¦½¹¸ SAVANNAKHET Bao.from VietnamviaLao is alsoamajor gateway forvisitors arriving Indochina War.Army duringtheSecond It to SouthVietnamfortheNorthVietnamese Minh Trail(p 263 ), theprimarysupplyroute remnantsis agoodplacetosee of theHoChi with Salavan Province. Savannakhet Eastern Nuanstraddlingtheborder Ban north andSe south of Rte 9,Phu XangHae (p 262 ) tothe the province: DongPhu Vieng(p 262 ) tothe inthecountry. among themosttypicallyLao of theMekong, thevillages of are Savannakhet Particularly inthelowlandfarminglandseast ing communitiesof andChinese. Vietnamese andgrow- and Suay),long-established Kaleung, Katang, Lave,Mangkong, Pako groups(Chali,Bru,small Mon-Khmer ThaiDam,several includes LowlandLao, the province more iswitnessingeven traffic. Friendship Bridge, openedinDecember2006, now complemented byyetanotherThai-Lao ofWith theluxuriouslysmoothtarmac Rte 9 twobigger neighbours. these corridor between years becomeanincreasingly trade important andVietnamintheeast,ithasrecenttains Thailand inthewestandAnnamite moun- citizens. Stretching theMekong between and province andishometoabout15%of allLao isthecountry’smostpopulous Savannakhet PROVINCE SAVANNAKHET 254 like canseem While centralSavannakhet There are three NPAs whollyorpartlyin The populationof approximately 926,000 041 /pop139,000 SAVANNAKHET ••Savannakhet PROVINCE × $$½À¢© Sisavangvong; cash exchange. h MasterCard. 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SAVANNAKHET 3 5 2 1 6 4 lonelyplanet.com

4 4 CENTRAL LAOS provides informationrangingfrombookings h sites where bonesorfootprints have dinosaur 1-4pm) admission 5000K; 597; ThKhanthabuli; this smallbutwell-presented palaeontologists. In acolonial-erabuilding, ProvinceSavannakhet isanexcitingplacefor ¹ tolearn comeassomesurprise It might MUSEE DESDINOSAURES tours of thehistoricdowntowndistrict. esting buildings.Thecentre alsooffers guided tourof thecity’smostinter-tures aself-guided Downtown’,whichcalled ‘Savannakhet fea- (p255)hasputtogetherCentre abrochure a bitmore guidance,theTouristInformation moving, amongtheslow- near WatSainyamungkhun, childrenthe laughing and,alongThPhetsalat tre of thenewand oldbuildings, town,between thequietstreetswandering through inthecen- Much of thecharm of isinjust Savannakhet Sights &Activities &Tour SK Travel toVietnam. and sellbustickets TrailandHeuanHin, andtheHoChiMinh tours toSepon Saenna) IntheSavanbanhaoHotel,theseguyscanarrange Co SavanbanhaoTourism hire amotorbike. Vieng (p 262 ) NPAs, tobustimesandwhere to for treks toDongNatad(p 261 ) andDongPhu 8-11.30am&2-5pmSatSun) 11.30am &1.30-5pmMon-Fri, ThRatsaphanith; 203; www.savannakhet-trekking.com; 256 TAE AGENCIES TRAVEL ð ² every hourfrom7.30amto7pm,stoppingatthe byboat.citizens andSavannakhet are nolonger allowedtocrossbetweenMukdahan oftheSecondThai-LaoSince theconstruction FriendshipBridge in2006,non-Thai andnon-Lao CROSSING THETHAI BORDERAT MUKDAHAN &SAVANNAKHET 10pm) daily busesboundforBangkokbetween5.30pmand8.15pm. approximately every there 45minutes are from8.15amto7pm.OnwardMukdahan, five busstation. youallthewaytoSavannakhet’s take holidays. The lastobstacleisaUS$1/40B‘EntryFee’, andthentheThai-Lao International Buswill fee’ ischarged and from6amto8amand6pm10pmonweekdays,aswellweekends don’t have aphotoyou’llbecharged theequivalentofUS$2,andanadditionalUS$1‘overtime US$20 toUS$42,dependingonyournationality(formore detailsonLaovisas,seep 328 ). Ifyou 8am-4pm) Can arrange air tickets. 8am-4pm) Canarrangeairtickets. Ø ² SAVANNAKHET ••Savannakhet PROVINCE roughlyThe Thai-Laobusstation(50B,45minutes) International departs BusfromMukdahan’s theThai-Lao InternationalFrom Savannakhet, Bus(13,000Kto14,000K,45minutes) departs Ø ©ê½² displayssomeof thefindsfromfive and the petang × $Ä©Â$À¦ ( -playing oldmen.Ifyourequire % Lao borderpost 300 176/7;ThChaimeuang; Ü ¾ ( % /fax 212944;Th museum h

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, where a30-dayvisaonarrivalisavailablefor Thai borderpost to have most first builtin1542,though been and practise theirEnglishintheprocess.Look and practise the monksmaybewillingtoshowyouaround placetowander,and century. It’sapleasant todaydatesof fromthe20th whatyousee residence, with more than100novices andmonksin The oldestandlargest monastery inSavan, ¸ SAINYAPHUM WAT fun. good Lao-style their limited EnglishorFrench onyou.It’s asm isinfectious andthey’re willingtouse found.Thecurators’been unfailingenthusi- (Th Khanthabuli; admission 5000K; Khanthabuli; (Th a hotel atthetimeof research), this ing (theformersite wasbeing turnedinto ² SAVANNAKHET PROVINCIAL MUSEUM (stories of theBuddha’spastlives) paintings. ing a15mreclining Buddhabacked byJataka thám gaudy Brahmashrine,amodern unglazed). Otherstructures includearather temples arewindows (mostinLao (ordination hall)isuniqueinthatithasglass amonks’primaryschool. The and houses Rattanalangsi Nearly as large asWatSainyaphum, ¸ RATTANALANGSI WAT a veritable golden-Buddha productionline. for theworkshopnearriver entrance–it’s refurbished French-era administrative build- Despite having moved toabeautifully house × × ©Ä§¨½² ©ì Ø ² Ø ©ê½² × ©ª½$½ì (sermon hall)andashelter contain- (sermon × $Á¢¸¤¦½¹¸ Wat Sainyaphum Þ ´

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CENTRAL LAOS 257 The The ) Rooms Rooms ) ) Located in Located aW aW 212 371; fax 212 380; aW 212 158; fax 212 916; 212 158; fax 212 916; ) In four buildings set ) The ugly, six-storey The ugly, six-storey % ( 212 732; Th Chaimeuang;

% a ( a 212 202; [email protected]; 300 106; Th Ratsavongseuk; s/d 212 262; cnr Th Phetsalat & Th

% 212 284; 172/173 Th Phetsalat; 212 284; 172/173 Th Phetsalat; ( 212 371; fax 212 380; Th Santisouk; % % % ( ( ( ) Phonevilay’s air-con rooms with %

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a This tidy, bright blue complex, ) ) It’s a fair hike to Savannakhet’s historical dis- a a Nanhai Hotel Boualuang Hotel Phonepaseud Hotel Salasavan Guest House Hoongtip Hotel Other budget places include the following: Other budget r 400B; trict, but the rooms at this bright tidy compound are green recommended. comes and new. The attached restaurant Nanhai has semiluxurious rooms with decent a Chinese of views, but has all the character Sadly, the pool – not much. business hotel on) closed. (years remains minibar but aren’t as good as they could be. as good as they could be. minibar but aren’t over- Those (US$18) are in the old building priced; and while those in the new building no window. several better, have (US$25) are 129 Th Kuvoravong; s/d US$20/25; colonial-era building dating back to 1926, the and appear comfort- large are rooms here five up to the price tag or live able, but don’t quite this place has as a true boutique the potential Nonetheless, if you want to stayhotel. in an the historical dis- old building in the heart of trict, this is virtually your only choice. US$25/45; r/ste incl breakfast Phonevilay Hotel r 25,000-70,000K; TV and fridge but the dingy fan rooms decent enough, are not. with cold water are Savanbanhao Hotel MIDRANGE & TOP END options in midrange a lot of aren’t There places Savannakhet, of and only a couple being called ‘top end’. worthy of US$18-25; Udomsin; r incl breakfast Sainyaphum, this modernish house modernish this Sainyaphum, on the the elevated views from great has edge river’s comfortable are rooms, which bar but not the out motorbikes The owner hires if a bit dark. day. for 360B per from Savannakhet’s blocks town, old a few rooms with TV, and huge large air-con offers bathrooms. Lelavade Guest House Th Saenna; r 55,000-95,000K; courtyard,around a soulless concrete aren’t rooms here All front. not much on the atmosphere bad but there’s English-language TV.rooms have hot water, air-con and Th Santisouk; r US$25, ste US$35-100; in the Hoongtip’s two buildings have TVin the Hoongtip’s two buildings have in the best rooms) and (English channels 600/800B; the former Thai consulate, a well-preservedthe former Thai consulate, are are herbal 1-8pm) 212 426; 84 Th h The super- ) % 212 600; Th Saenna; (

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% ( PROVINCE •• Savannakhet SAVANNAKHET About 200m north of Wat Wat 200m north of About ) 212 826; Th Kuvoravong; sauna 10,000K; 10,000K; 212 826; Th Kuvoravong; sauna offers Lao-style offers massage (per Just south of the centre of town, of the centre Just south of % a ) ( a offers little of interest for those who interest little of offers (Th Ratsavongseuk; sauna 10,000K;

10am-8pm) Souannavong Guesthouse Nongsoda Guest House Sayamungkhun Guest House Leena Guesthouse hires out motorbikes for 70,000K per day. out motorbikes hires six rooms here are simple but clean, and fea- are six rooms here Service and the owner is cheery cable TV. ture fan/air-con 50,000/70,000K) inviting atmosphere in an appealing colonial- in an appealing inviting atmosphere means era building on the main road, which a bit noisy. front rooms are friendly Sayamungkhun spot- has spacious, and an lessly clean rooms (some with a fridge) Ratsavongseuk; r 50,000-70,000K; tached bathroom, with hot water in the more the more in bathroom, with hot water tached rooms. expensive further from the river, the 40 smallish rooms further from the river, at- have All clean and good value. are here Chao Kim; r 40,000-90,000K; is almost invariably warm and welcoming. Rooms come in several shapes and sizes but big; ask to see quite clean and some are are speak owners The husband-and-wife a few. English. Recommended. the atmosphere in this airy wooden house the atmosphere BUDGET Saisouk Guesthouse options but little to excite if you’re looking for you’re if options but little to excite within located luxury. Most guesthouses are old town. the attractive walking distance of Savannakhet has a reasonable range of budget budget of range Savannakhet has a reasonable sauna Sleeping hour 30,000K) in addition to sauna.hour 30,000K) in addition The offer- open no-name ings at the sporadically Red Cross HERBAL SAUNA enough hot and humid already if it wasn’t As places a couple of are in Savannakhet, there Lao-style part in a to take herbal sauna. The rusting artillery pieces and the barely recognis- pieces and the barely rusting artillery the T-28, an American-built of able remains the Royal Lao aircraft of main combat Army. the form of hundreds of photos from various photos of hundreds the form of Laos’speriods of history, none with modern a few are In the front yard English captions. Mon-Fri) takes exhibition the bulk of The Lao. can’t read lonelyplanet.com h r 400-600B; 70,000K; more straightforward. more CENTRAL LAOS sells whatisprobablythemostpopular, and sells daosavanhhtl.com; ThThaHe;rinclbreakfast US$66-97,ste bled eggs). There’sbled eggs). alsoagood khào j strosity, 8km from Savannakhet nearthestrosity, 8kmfromSavannakhet the purple Tigo sign. language under sign,solook forthebusystall chicken), There’s inSavannakhet. no English- broth withcrispy deep-fried porkbellyor viscous inaslightly (thick noodlesserved therichest, almost certainly mains7000K; Ratsavongseuk; Tai’.Lattanalangsy ‘B.and carrots);lookforthesignthat says noodle filledwithmincedpork,mushrooms for (Lao can get corner &ThPhagnapui) Th Ratsavongseuk made fromAsiatic pennywort,agreen herb). and beef) sìin saw specialities you’re likely toencounter include hasadecent foodscene.Savannakhet Local Compared tomostprovincial inLaos, capitals Eating &Drinking windows lookdirectly over thegamingfloor. that you’re atacasino,thejuniorsuite staying areminderif abitbland,andasyouneeded Theroomsareto Savannakhet. niceenough, Thais nowconstitute themajority of tourists andis virtually thesolereason thatLaos, Friendship Bridge, isoneof fourcasinosin aiWs r inclbreakfast 2000B,steinclbreakfast 5000-50,000B; great value. are buttheroomsaren’t pluses, particularly atmosphere. Theriverside locationandpool don’tcomeexpectingagreatthough dealof al- inSavannakhet, the flashestplacetostay venture, popularwithThaitourgroups,is incl breakfast US$163-174; bepossibleinlowseason. might the sizeof asmallcinemascreen. Discounts withaflat-screen TV wood-panelled affair while the‘S.VIP’room(US$100)isahuge, minibarand(insome)bathtubs, English TV, Roomsare spotlesslycleanandhave service. is easilythebesthotel intownforroomsand isabitfarfromtheMekong,Phonepaseud but 258 Khao PiakNangNoy Khao For breakfast, several SavanVegas Daosavanh Resort &SpaHotel DaosavanhResort SAVANNAKHET ••Savannakhet PROVINCE į

i sai khai (cnr ThPhagnapui&Saenna) khào pìak ǎ bánh cuôn; n nâm pháknòrk (a slightly sweet, dried,roasted sweet, (a slightly ) Thiselephant-themedmon-

( % (baguettes filledwithscram- 252 200-4;www.savanvegas.com; (rice soup)and aiWs a freshly steamed rice h ( baguette vendors baguette % along this strip sell alongthisstripsell 7am-10pm) (arefreshing drink 020-7774 4248;Th

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dàat sundowners approaches, and,asevening Thai rock,butthere’s alsoacomicallymis- and style drinkingplace,fuelledbyBeerlao this placeisallabout withprivate compartments, outdoor setting easy enough tojustpointandshoot. easy enough barbecue). There’s noEnglishmenubutit’s north of is oneof theoldstadium, the only disappoint. disappoint. as classicFrenchmenu emphasises dishessuch mostupscalerestaurant.Savannakhet’s The tiful French-era building,thisisprobably 145,000K; 20,000-50,000K; appeal tojustabouteverybody. drinks andvegetarian optionsare boundto food, andtheJapanese-ish meals,desserts, set it’s oneof thebetter placestogofornon-Lao (p Cafe Vientiane’s YuLaLa 106 ). Nonetheless, similar to,butnotquite aswellexecuted as, Japanese-run placehasamenuthat’seerily mains 20,000-40,000K; and sauce’) hereping sauces, referred spicy toas‘seasonal ous sidedishes;likewise, the míang, If you’re diningwithfriendstry dishes. ofing asolidselection authenticLao cle ferry isnowafloatingrestaurant serv- 10,000-70,000K; h habitually drunkbig’, anyone?). translated menuof drinking snacks(‘fried mains 10,000-25,000K; vendors snack anddrink Western-style coffee. places serving casual Western-style food,andoneof the only for it’s probablythebestplaceinSavannakhet spiring pizza/pasta/steakmenu.Nonetheless, a factnotentirely manifest intheratherunin- tractive restaurant lived years inParis, several 30,000-150,000K; available. meals andvegie set optionsare also Several theexecutionalthough isn’talwaysuptopar. DaoSavanh SavanRestaurant Anakot Cafe LaoDer Khao Khanhom Opposite theWatSainyaphum Café ChezBoune Café bœuf bourguignon 10am-11pm) LaoDermSavan isalsoavailable. a whole grilled fish served withvari- awholegrilledfishserved h 7am-10pm; kôy

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11am-11pm) 7am-10pm) ( % % 260 888; Th Si Muang; mains30,000- 260 888;ThSiMuang; ( h 020-7774 8154; Th Ratsavongseuk; 020-7774 8154;ThRatsavongseuk; %

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sìin dàat ( 9.30am-9pm Tue-Sun) Inanoddlyromantic 214 488; Th Khangluang; mains 214 488;ThKhangluang; h and ) Theownerof thisat- Housed inabeau- Housed 5-10pm) Theformervehi- Mostlyagarden- poulet basquaise, lonelyplanet.com j ą (Korean-style ew are great for (spicydip- p ą a phán riverside riverside This sìin CENTRAL LAOS That 259 sakai-làep sakai-làep may occupy tend to loiter to loiter tend 7am-6pm) h Sakai-làep . thâat ¤ × (admission 5000K;

¤» Ø is the second holiest religious edifice is the second holiest religious on a hang tree (thus Ing Hang). A relic A relic (thus Ing Hang). on a hang tree Motorcycles can be hired at Souannavong at Souannavong Motorcycles can be hired Not including the Mon-inspired cubical cubical Not including the Mon-inspired To Vietnam, there’s a bus to Dong Ha Ha bus to Dong a there’s To Vietnam, AROUND SAVANNAKHET base, That Ing Hang was substantially re- base, That Ing Hang King Setthathirat of built during the reign rent bicycles, most along Th Ratsavongseuk,rent about 10,000K per day. charging That Ing Hang ê¾©º been built in the mid-16th Thought to have century, this well-proportioned, 9m-high thâat in southern Laos Champasak. Wat Phu after Chao Fa Built on or near the spot where based during the takeover Ngum’s forces were Muang Sawa in the mid-14th century, of Ing Hang to the Si Khotabun sacred an earlier site king- stopped dom. The Buddha is believed to have he was sick during his wanderings when here by leaning rested back in ancient times. He (ing) to be kept spine is reputed the Buddha’s of inside the Savannakhet is just big enough that you Savannakhet enough is just big that you might occasionally need a jumbo – or the Savannakhet a equivalent, thought someone a (‘Skylab’). Apparently the famed space station like jumbo looked to earth, though we suspect that who- that fell a conclusion was probably on such ever drew drugs at the time. Trips cost pier. outside the passenger ferry trips to 10,000K to from 5000K for shorter the bus station, for the whole vehicle. ) and Nongsoda Guest 257 Guesthouse (p ) for 70,000K to 100,000K per 257 House (p ) provides 254 day. The Eco-Guide Unit (p out hire places that list of a comprehensive places to also a few are There motorbikes. For Hué, there’s a local bus (90,000K, about a local bus (90,000K, For Hué, there’s a VIP daily at 10pm and 409km) 13 hours, at 10am about eightbus (110,000K, hours) bus to also a to Friday. There’s from Monday 508km) about 10 hours, Danang (170,000K, the same and Tuesday at 6pm; on Saturday 24 (200,000K, about bus continues to Hanoi to you’d have 650km), but we reckon hours, to consider this journey. be a masochist Getting Around (US$12, about seven(US$12, de- 350km), hours, dates. 8am on even-numbered parting at is near 213 920; Th 213 920; Th % ( khíw lot, khíw

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Buses leave for the Laos–VietnamBuses border leave Nine buses to Pakse (35,000K, five to six (35,000K, five Nine buses to Pakse The airport is at the southeast edge of of southeast edge The airport is at the

at Dansavanh (35,000K, four to six hours, (35,000K, four to six hours, at Dansavanh 236km) at 7am, 9am and noon, stopping at Sepon hours). (30,000K, four to five at 7pm, and two daily buses to Attapeu 410km) at 9am (70,000K, eight to 10 hours, and 7pm. one of the regular buses passing through the regular from one of also a daily bus to Don There’s Vientiane. Khong 367km) (70,000K, six to eight hours, hours, 230km) originate here, the first at 7am the first here, 230km) originate hours, and the last one at 10pm. Otherwise jump on 4pm. A VIP bus (95,000K, six to eight hours) 4pm. A VIP bus (95,000K, six to eight hours) at 9.30pm, or you could to Vientiane leaves try to pick up a seat the VIP buses on one of For buses from coming through from Pakse. . 114 Vientiane, see p partures (25,000K) to Tha Khaek from 8am to partures eight to 11 hours, 457km) roughlyeight every to 11 hours, half- hour from 6.45am to 11.30am. From 1.30pm to hop on a bus passing to 10pm you’ll have They stop at Tha Khaek through from Pakse. 125km). There (25,000K, 2½ to four hours, also hourly are town. Buses leave here for Vientiane (65,000K, for here town. Buses leave Savannakhet’s Sisavangvong) BUS town and jumbos make the trip downtown town and jumbos make for 50,000K. such as SK Travel & Tour (p 256 ). 256 (p & Tour as SK Travel such Sunday at 9.05am. Tickets can be purchased can be Sunday at 9.05am. Tickets at the Airport; 80 minutes) on Wednesday, Friday and Friday and on Wednesday, 80 minutes) and Saturday. International flights connect and Saturday. International Savannakhet to Siem Reap (US$150, 70 min- daily at 8.30am, and Bangkokutes) (US$120, and Sunday, and Luang Prabang (1,045,000K, and Sunday, and Luang Thursday at 4.40pm on Monday, 90 minutes) domestic connections to Vientiane (895,000K, domestic connections to Friday at 1.25pm on Wednesday, 55 minutes) Savannakhet’s Phomvihane) Getting There & Away AIR dishes, but Laodishes, but Lao Der functions equally well as a bar. places in town to offer great Mekong views. Mekong great offer in town to places Lao, menu spans The hefty Chinese Thai and lonelyplanet.com the Talat Savan Xai at the northern edge of of Xai at the northern edge Savan the Talat CENTRAL LAOS 260 Ban Lak 35, and on to Savannakhet. Ban Lak35,andon toSavannakhet. from there it’s19kmofsealed roadbackto Kok;and thenrightatthe roundaboutinKeng a T-intersection. Turn leftat theintersection road leadsabout11kmbefore terminating at the four-way andturnleft(west).This junction as longanyonecanremember. dozens have ofsoft-shelled beenliving turtles Luang Daeng. Inthe centre ofthevillageis toBanDon straight andcontinuing5kmfurther continue tothefour-way proceeding junction, ing in1969. subsequently destroyedbyAmericanbomb- Taleo pathwillleadyouto A short at thesignthatsays‘Taleow OldTemple’. laterite roadabout17kmtoBanTaleo Mai.Justbefore youapproachthevillage,turnright attractive woodenprayerhallthatappearstodate fromthesameperiod. manuscript library( for theoccasional in firstandhitthegas. Ifyoustall,you’llhave togetoffandpush.Alternatively, youcouldwait the river tocheckitsdepth(orfollowingthetyre trailstoseewhere thelocalsgo),putbike ofthisride.you’ll beattheSeChamphoneformostchallenging across After part walking feeding. white along here you’llcometothe you’ll beinBanDongMouang(BanTha Thouang) About400m where youturnleft(north). following thesign,atT-junction Neua,thenimmediately right(east). inBanSakhon Soon come toanirrigationlevee. to turn issignposted. The first‘sight’isthe guide youtherest oftheway).About4kmalongturnright(east) atBanDonDokMai;the laterite Forest’ lookforthebrownsignsaying‘Monkey (similarsignswill roadatBanKhoum; ontoa Afterleft (east) Kok. 11kmturnleft(north) onthedecentsealedroadtowardsKeng informationonthestops.and briefbackground TouristInformationCentreSavannakhet’s (p 254 ) called‘Champhone’,whichfeatures amap with distancesalongmostoftheroute. They’ve alsoputtogetherabrochure availableat approximately November andMay.Before yousetout,read theboxed text, p 342 . a river crossing,completingthetripasaloopisonlypossibleduringdryseason,between through thisarchetypalLaoLoumarea ofscattered villagesandricepaddies. Becauseitinvolves sites afunmotorcycledaytrip thatmightnotbefascinatingindividually,buttogethermake cityishometoseveralMuang Champhone(Champhone southeastofSavannakhet District) SAVANNAKHET THROUGH SPIN SAVANNAKHET ••SpinThroughSavannakhet PROVINCE Wat Nonglamchanh From BanNonglamchanhcontinue eastabout1kmandturnright(south).Followthisgood ridebackto To getbacktoSavannakhet, Returning tothemainroad,turnrightand Once across,followtheroadabout2kmtoBanNonglamchanhwhere theleftfork youtake After around, followthetrailwindingintobeautifulsacred monkeying forest. Before long Beyond thelevee (dryseasononly)followtheroadafew andturnleft(north), kilometres toBanLak35,where yourodometer,After youturn headsouthfromSavannakhet checking tourismboardhasmadedoingthetripabiteasierbyproviding clearsignsSavannakhet’s , atemple originally builtin1918and thâat (Turtle Lake; admission 2000K), where admission2000K), Lake; (Turtle (stupas).Ifyou’ve upsomebananasalongtheway,getthemoutandstart picked dok h ǎ w t (the signsays‘HotaiPidok’). The watisfamousforitselevated wooden ą i (mini tractor) thatcrosseshere. (minitractor) inLao),whichissaidtobemore than200years old.There’s alsoan Wat Kao BanWat Kao Monkey Forest Nong Sui Reservoir (32km) To Savannakhet , inashadedarea opposite abunchofsmall 13 Lak 35 Ban To Seno , which you’ll skirt for3kmuntilyou’ll , whichyou’llskirt Ban Khoum Dok Mai Ban Don 13 Direction of route Reservoir Sui Keng Kok Champhone Ban DongMouang (Ban ThaThouang) Muang Monkey 3miles 5km 0 0 Forest (Turtle Lake) Nong Luang Sakhon lonelyplanet.com Neua Ban Ban Taleo Nonglamchanh Wat Kao Nonglamchanh Taleo Mai Ban Don Daeng

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$ Ø It’s a long haul by public transport and haul by public transport and It’s a long º$¹ Û Talat Savan Xai when full, usually in the the Xai when full, usually in Savan Talat mid-morning. With your own transport, turn west at Ban 13 and head south along Rte it’s Nong Nokhian, near Km 490, from where also are Guided tours a dusty 17km to the site. from Savannakhet. available with trekking elsewhere in Laos. elsewhere trips Arrange with trekking at least a day ahead. Heuan Hin À» Savannakhet of south River On the Mekong Cham or Khmeris this set ruins (the name of means Stone House), built between AD 553 the walls, most of and 700. Apart from a few now lie in site this pre-Angkorian stones of No carvings rubble. laterite piles of remain, been off carted having the only known lintel to Paris. temple you’d need to be a truly dedicated the trip. enthusiast to make 78km) leave hours, (20,000K, two to three engage one of Savannakhet’s English-speaking one of engage ). 254 guides through the Eco-Guide Unit (p programs, ranging six different The unit offers from multi-day homestays to one day cycling from US$42 to trips, and ranging in price (prices drop sub- US$189 for one person These are). there people stantially the more text, (see treks the boxed community-based and feedback positive had plenty of ) have 79 p English-speaking guide the combination of in- of source a great guide proves and village formation about how the local people live. high compared relatively However, prices are to Sepon (20,000K, one hour) from 7am to 5pm. from 7am to 5pm. to Sepon (20,000K, one hour) ew ǎ wngth ǎ (450g). A s baht PROVINCE •• Around Savannakhet SAVANNAKHET Dansavanh (Laos)/Lao Bao (Vietnam)Dansavanh (Laos)/Lao border driver and will do well to knock driver The bus station in Dansavanh is about 1km short of the border; Vietnamese teenagers on on is about 1km short station in Dansavanh bus teenagers The of the border; Vietnamese Once through, take and transport a motorbike (10,000d) 2km to the Lao Bao bus terminal is to take buses from Savannakhet one of the various bound in a hurry, an alternative If you’re motorbikes are more than happy to take you the rest of the way for about 5000K. The Lao border the way for about 5000K. of border Lao than happy to take you the rest The more motorbikes are visas must be arranged Vietnam has an exchange booth. visas on arrival and 30-day tourist offers ). 319 in Savannakhet consulate (p done at the Vietnam in advance, which can be main north–south hours, 80km) on Vietnam’s to Dong Ha (50,000d, two highway and railway. buses to Savannakhet hours) at 7.30am, 9.30am, are four to five (35,000K, Laos, there Entering regular 10am and noon, as well as for departure details. 259 see p cities of Dong Ha, Hué and Danang; for the Vietnamese From Savannakhet, buses (35,000K, five to seven hours) leave at 7am, 9am and noon for the noon for the at 7am, 9am and hours) leave From Savannakhet,seven to buses (35,000K, five it’s worth passing this way if you’re breaking for a night in the journey Alternatively, border. Minh for seeing the Ho Chi Sepon as a base Trail. available on both sides of the border. Simple accommodation is CROSSING THE VIETNAMESE BORDER AT LAO BAO & DANSAVANH LAO BAO & AT BORDER VIETNAMESE THE CROSSING Crossing the It’s possible to visit Dong NatadIt’s possible to visit Dong on your The That Ing Hang Festival is held on the Festival The That Ing Hang is about 11.5km northeast Ing Hang That sakai-làep sakai-làep ¤$¾ê¾© Ü him down below 100,000K return. Going by him down below 100,000K return. thing of a ‘forest-lite’ experience. It’s better to It’s better experience. ‘forest-lite’ a thing of own, by bicycle, motorbike or in a tuk-tuk own, by bicycle, motorbike from Savannakhet. However, it will be some- and economy. the season; all are important parts of their diet importantthe season; parts of all are fruit, oils, honey (from March to May), resins resins to May), fruit, oils, honey (from March a good chance and insects.there’s If you visit, ants, collecting red villagers you’ll encounter depending on cicadas or some other critter, 400 years, with villagers gathering forest prod- gathering forest with villagers 400 years, as mushrooms (in the rainy season),ucts such Savannakhet. It’s home to two villages that Savannakhet. It’s home to two villages been for about coexistinghave with the forest Dong Natad is a sacred, semievergreen forest forest semievergreen Dong Natad a sacred, is 15km from area protected within a provincial © hired bicycle or motorbike makes more sense. more makes bicycle or motorbike hired Dong Natad turn-off is clearly signed. Any northbound Any northbound is clearly signed. turn-off haggle or you could with bus can stop here, a full moon of the first lunar month. the first full moon of 9, then 3km east; the Savannakhet via Rte of images; by religious custom, women are not custom, women are by religious images; The French the chamber. to enter permitted in 1930. That Ing Hang restored hollow chamber in the lower section in containshollow chamber Buddha collection of a fairly undistinguished bases traditional Lao topped by a stupa and weighing 40 a gold umbrella (1548–71) and now features three terraced terraced three (1548–71) and now features lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS plaining the high prices(US$90/116/157/280plaining the high someway towardsex- long trip thatgoes the 180kmtoand fromtheNPA, and it’sthe monkey andhornbill. includetherare leaflarly seen silver Langur the junglebyvillage families.Animals regu- you’ll see leads trekkers asacred through forest where Avillage guidespecialities isahighlight. All foodisincludedandeatinglocal forest May). There’s aboat triponthethirdday. (Novembersible duringthedryseason to areas withlittlecover, orpaths only acces- woodlands tobambooforests androcky amixofthrough forests ranging fromdense p262). text, theboxed ifyoubehavestay (see yourself a numberof Katang villages, where youcan centre of Province, Savannakhet ishometo world. Thepark,southof MuangPhin inthe chance tostep intoarapidlydisappearing to Dong Phu ViengNPA, which offers arare One of is themostfascinatingtreks inLaos ¯ 262 DONG PHUVIENGNPA È ¾¦½¹¤¸$Á¹ The three-day trek localtransportfor uses The trek involves afairbitof walking     the unnecessarylossofapigorbuffalocanhave adire bothsociallyandeconomically. impact allthewaytoabuffaloformostseriousindiscretions.chicken As thevillagershave littlemoney, to workouthowthespiritcanbemollified.Usuallyasacrificemustmade–ranging froma break thetaboos. Ifthehousespiritisseriouslydisturbedvillageobligedtocallameeting youdon’t toavoiddisturbingthisspiritandasavisitoritisvitallyimportant developed inaneffort believed tolive inthehomeofevery villagefamily.Overthecenturiesaseriesoftabooshave been isthehousespirit,oneofwhich that surroundthemintheforest. Oneofthemostimportant the MekongRiver valley.They are notBuddhist,butinstead believe stronglyin themyriadspirits villagers ofDongPhuThe Vieng Katang NPA live inastarklydifferent worldtotheLaoLoumof SLEEPING WITHSPIRITS consultation withthevillagersthemselves. Guideshave beentrained,andthetrekUnit inSavannakhet. wasestablishedafter extensive oftheorganised trekence, whichiswhyyoucanonlyvisitthemaspart throughtheEco-Guide group arrives. Itgoeswithoutsayingthatthesevillagesare extremely sensitive tooutsideinflu- this wasnofunsotheynowclearitwiththespiritasamatter ofcoursebefore anytrekking thevillagersdecided withthehousespiritisalsoano-no, While clappingwithoutfirstchecking     SAVANNAKHET ••DongPhuViengNPA PROVINCE house: So, whenyou’re inaKatang do notbangonthewallsofhouse. outside wallor,spiritsforbid,anotherperson’shead sleep withyourheadpointed towardsthenearest outsidewall;never pointyourfeet atthe really can’tbeseparated tell Unit andtheycanbringatent theEco-Guide foryou do notsleepbesideapersonoftheopposite sex,even ifthatpersonisyourspouse:you never enter theowner’sbedroomortouchspiritplace lak la’puep È ¤§¾©© –clanpostsplacedin Ü ¤² Þ ¸¼¤ bigger grouptogether andif makes sense, tothree/alone).seven/two Clearlygetting a per person inagroupof to10/four eight minimum). cost(US$250 perperson,the high two person of three groupsdidthetrek, mostlikely dueto in thejungle. in2009agrand total However, community-based trek invillages staying and Unit (p 254 runsafive-day) inSavannakhet IntheorytheEco-Guideis very difficult. roads meansgetting intoPhu Xang Hae theboxed(see text, p 262 ). Phu ViengNPA, of aseries taboos observe people wholive here, like theKatang of Dong source of smallerrivers. several ThePhu Thai of Province, Savannakhet anditshillsare the stretching east–westacross theremote north Xang Hae NPA of isalongexpanse forest Named after WildElephantMountain, Phu NPA HAE PHU XANG departing. whenatripis still,callaheadtosee Better on alistassoonyouarrive inSavannakhet. Eco-Guide Unit(p 254 ) andputyourname you’re interested tothe itpaystogostraight Unfortunately, of the diabolicalstate the lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS 263 (Old Sepon) (Old is a so- Sepon Kao A trip to bering experience. On the banks of the Se of the banks On experience. bering Pon, Sepon almost into the was bombed Kao Although a handful the war. during Stone Age back, they live since moved have villagers of war, including the the of among reminders the wat and a pile of facade of bomb-scarred was once the which a safe, bricks surrounding head on foot or bike, If you’re town’s bank. east from Sepon Km and turn right just after 199; the sign says ‘Ban Seponkao’. $ Ø ´ Ø PROVINCE Sepon •• (Xepon) Chi Minh & the Ho Trail SAVANNAKHET $ê¾¤Â»¥ É

Although mostly associated with the 1963–74 Second Indochina War, the road network was the road network was with the 1963–74 Second Indochina War, Although mostly associated USA The of the trail throughout most of the war. North denied the existence The Vietnamese nor a tiny footpath. understanding, the trail was neither a single route Contrary to popular ), east of Sepon, and the village of 264 at Ban Dong (p Today the most accessible points are and inaccessible isn’t easy. Except in the most remote Seeing evidence of the trail, however, joint Lao-American Savannakhet, teams Provinces, In eastern and Attapeu Salavan, Sekong

041 / pop 40,000 originally used by the Viet Minh against the French in the 1950s as an infiltration route to the to the 1950s as an infiltration route in the Minh against the French used by the Viet originally North than 600,000 1966 and 1971 when more between trail’s heaviest use occurred south. The 500,000 tonnes of trucks, and – along with masses of provisions troops Army (NVA) Vietnamese violation of the 1962 Geneva in direct – passed along the route tanks, weapons and ordnance troops guarded the trail, which was one time around 30,000 NVA any ). At 35 Accords (see p depots, hospitals and rest repair barracks, fuel and vehicle honey-combed with underground anti-aircraft emplacements. sophisticated more camps as well as ever of saturation bombing (begun in 1965 and of 1.1 million tonnes denied bombing it. In spite up to 900 sorties reaching per day by 1969, including outings by B-52 behemoths), traffic along Like a column of ants parted with a days. than a few for more interrupted was never the route 15% to southward with only an estimated soldiers and supplies poured stick, the Vietnamese dropped says 300 bombs were by the bombardment. One estimate affected 20% of the cargo tried bombing the trail with canned Budweiser beer even Yanks casualty. The NVA for every (to make the trail too dishwasher detergent Calgonite (incapacitation through intoxication!), quantities of defoliants and herbicides. and massive slippery for travel), installations, battalions worked on building roads, bridges and defence engineering NVA Several built just Bridges were simple but ingenious. and methods to hide the trails from the air were As tied together to hide what had become wide roads. and branches were level below the water deeper into Laos, and virtually the war continued, the various trails stretched all roads running north–south once part in the southeast of Laos were of the trail. South of which sits almost right on the main thoroughfare. Province, ) in Attapeu 310 (p Pa-am Prince Sihanouk (until March 1970 when a coup toppled where Cambodia, the trail enters here running up another Communist supply route it met up with the Sihanouk Trail, Penh) in Phnom from the Gulf of Thailand. almost all of what was once a huge amount of war removed have scrap-metal hunters areas, a couple of tanks and a surface-to-air by scrap. In Ban Dong and Pa-am, protected missile remain, need to get way out into the sticks and get locals to guide you. you’ll Elsewhere order. government of American soldiers missing in action. per cent of Eighty still searching for the remains are along gone down somewhere American servicemen thought to have still missing in Laos are the Ho Chi Minh Trail. HO CHI MINH TRAIL Ho Chi Minh Trail is actually a complex network of dirt roads paths and gravel infamous The border from Khammuan in the north Province Cambodia to running parallel to the Laos-Vietnam in the south.

SEPON (XEPON)SEPON & remarkable. The main reason for coming here for coming here reason The main remarkable. is to see and the Ho Chi Minh Trail parts of the old district capital, Seponwhat’s left of 6km to the east. Kao, Like so many other towns that needed so many other towns that to be Like following the Second War, Indochina rebuilt is fairly un- today spelt ‘Xepon’) Sepon (often À§Â¯$/À¦ % THE HO CHI MINH TRAIL CHI MINH THE HO lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL LAOS © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Pty Publications Planet Lonely © of Socialism’style,themonumentdepicts Indochina wars. ‘Heroes Doneinthestark Lao-Vietnamese cooperationduringthe posing Vietnamese-built monumentto anim- stands and 34kmwestof Sepon, the warended. to aswingbridgeafter builtbytheVietnamese other coupleof kilometres southyou’llcome Trail Minh andifyouheadan- . Itisstillused, Chi in factoneof themainbranches of theHo and have alook. and localsassured usitwasOKtogoinside but thegate neartheshopsisleftunlocked looking after thearea asfarwecouldtell, baby blueandpinkfence. There’s nobody east edge of Dongandisbordered Ban bya isattheguns andotherscrap,themuseum partof thetanks, aplane, Dong.Tosee Ban Army(NVA)North Vietnamese troopsat after being routed Bao byseasoned at Lao the ARVN troopsretreated acrosstheborder Despite supportfromUScombataircraft, on theHoChiMinhTrailinFebruary 1971. (Army of theRepublicof Vietnam)assault ARVN Son719–adisastrous Operation Lam duringclude twoAmerican-built used tanks lawn of theyet-to-open area gathered hasbeen intothegated front of whatwaspreviously scattered aroundthe what littlemateriel isleftfromthewar. Most Minh Trailandistheeasiestplacetosee of themajor thoroughfares of theHoChi 264 © d p i s t a i u

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