TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 UNDER the SPELL of SILK Dr. Tom Vitayakul
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TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 UNDER THE SPELL OF SILK Dr. Tom Vitayakul NEWSLETTER CONTENT Page UNDER THE SPELL OF SILK 1 - 2 BEERALU LACE – COLONIAL LEGACY OF SRI LANKA 4 - 5 HIMROO SHAWLS AND PAITHANI SILK SARIS 5 – 7 WEAVING OF THE JALQ’A COMMUNITY 7-10 IN POTOLO, BOLIVIA When I was young, a poem piqued my curiosity about silk. Sailor Poem, written by Eleanor NOMADIC MANTLE OF THE Farjeon, an English author, starts as follows: “My sweetheart’s a Sailor, He sails on the sea. When TURKMEN WOMEN 10 -14 he comes home, He brings presents for me; Coral from china, Silks from Siam, Parrots and Pearls, From Seringapatam…” Never mind where IKAT IN UZBEKISTAN 15 - 22 Seringapatam was. I wondered why Thai silks were so sought-after, because at the time most Thais didn’t wear silk, let alone use items made from it. Thompson seemed to have single-handedly In the past, sericulture — the process of creating revived the industry. Even I have bought some of raw silk by raising silkworms — was typically his accessories and souvenirs as presents over practiced by farmers during the dry season, the years. In fact, I used to join the masses when they would not have to tend to their rice queuing up for garage sales held at the main fields. Now it’s done year-round, and the store on Surawong Road. However, true credit luxurious silk items that used to be worn chiefly for bringing Thai textiles to the fore belongs to during formal ceremonies are as abundant as one of history’s icons of style, HM Queen Sirikit. Thai smiles. Across the world, lustrous silk Through her Support Foundation, as well as her pieces appear in fashion and enhance interior various projects, HM has helped improve the décor. They are not only collected for their lives of silk-weavers from far-flung villages beauty, but also for their historical, social, and nationwide. She has also directed consumer cultural significance. Silk sumptuously wraps attention to high-quality Thai products. A around our lives like a gigantic cocoon. multitude of annual sales and fairs see silk-lovers The name most often associated with Thai silk is rushing en masse to purchase the best and finest Jim Thompson, a former CIA agent turned silks selected by HM’s foundations, especially the entrepreneur who disappeared in the Cameron award-winning pieces emblazoned with Royal Highlands of Malaysia. To many, the enigmatic Peacock logos. 1 | Page TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 comfortable, and versatile. I use silk and ethnic clothing for all kinds of occasions. For decades, my “uniform” has been a shirt worn with a pair of silk fisherman’s trousers. The look has come to define my signature style. For official events, I wear a silk shirt-jacket that looks a lot like the attire my father used to wear. As they say, one eventually turns into one’s parents. It’s only a matter of time. Recently, younger generations have HM’s latest project saw the foundation of the reinterpreted Thai national costumes for their museum of textiles on the grounds of the Grand fashion repertoire. Patriotism is stylishly Palace. The museum highlights her many expressed in silks and accessorized with gold endeavours and houses some of her royal jewellery for a splash of contemporary flair. This costumes from the past, some in classic Thai national costume craze first occurred in 1997, style and others Western. Haute couture when the regional economy crashed. After being luminaries, such as Pierre Balmain, Christian bombarded by designer fashion in the 80s and Dior, and Givenchy, made some of the most 90s, we revisited our roots and rediscovered the magnificent of the collection. With designers like beauty of silk — of wearing something Thai that, it is no wonder HM Queen Sirikit frequently again. High society ladies and hipsters have landed on the International Best-Dressed List. begun to shop and appear at parties dressed to the nines in classic Thai style, be it jongkrabaen In line with popular sentiment, I used to think (similar to the Indian dhoti), jeepnhanang (a tube that Thai silks were too clingy to wear in the skirt with a pleated front), or sarongs. subtropical Thai climate. They were also hard to take care of and not suitable for daily wear. I While the backlash against high design doubles watched my parents don silk like armour before as a celebration of Thai culture, still I wonder. they would attend formal functions, such as Will this trend will be as ephemeral as the religious rites at temples, weddings, receptions, lifecycle of the silkworm? funeral wakes, and cremations. My father would This article originally appeared as the Tom’s Two dress up in a “Seua Phrarajathan” made from ikat Satang column in Bangkok 101, August 2015. silk, a dead ringer for the ones worn by former Prime Minister Prem Tinsulanonda, while my mother would appeal to traditional feminine sensibilities in pastel or gemstone shades of silk tube skirts matched with lace blouses. When I was eleven, my mother gave me my first piece of silk from Jim Thompson. I had it made into a shirt and wore it until it was threadbare. I was officially converted. Since then, I have fallen under a silk spell. Similar to tailored suits, silk apparel feels soft and supple on skin. The material flows alluringly. It is iridescent, light, 2 | Page TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 BEERALU LACE – COLONIAL LEGACY Through my search for information I discovered that there is still lacemaking that thrives among OF SRI LANKA some communities in this area. Thweep Rittinaphakorn Old photograph of Ceylonese lace makers For those of you who are fond of textiles and woven materials, lace is highly likely to be on your list. The work of countless numbers of threads that entwine into an intricate net featuring various opulent designs is beyond A tub filled with old lacemaking bobbins anyone’s imagination as to how it is achieved. It is one of the coincidences during my last trip to Sri Lanka that I had the chance to see the traditional lace-making there. To most people’s awareness, lacemaking is generally associated with European cultures and countries. Finding lacemaking in this South Asian land famous for tea and Buddhism is definitely an intriguing encounter. It all started when I found a large tub in one of the antique stores located in the vicinity of Galle, filled with small antique lacemaking wooden bobbins. Through the conversation with the antique storeowner, I learned that there has been lacemaking in this place for a long time. On the very same day when I went back to the hotel, I found an old photograph hung on the wall of the lobby depicting a group of Ceylonese ladies sitting on the ground making lace. That heightened my curiosity even more. Lace produced in Sri Lanka 3 | Page TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 Lacemaking on this island is not a recently Fortunately, there has been a recent revival introduced craft. It has been around for among a few communities in towns in the hundreds of years. The craft was believed to be Weligama area along the southern coast. Skilled introduced by the Portuguese who ruled the old craftswomen were identified and called upon coastal area of the island during the 16th to teach volunteers who showed interest in century. The production centered on the learning. At the moment, lacemaking in Sri Lanka southern coastal towns near the port cities, such has made its way back and the industry is as Galle growing organically. Lace has been designed and incorporated into a wider variety of products, Although introduced by the Portuguese in those including clothing and linens, making it more days, lacemaking was practiced by both appealing and marketable to visitors. Portuguese and Dutch ladies. It was then taught to the Sinhalese aristocratic ladies before spreading to the masses. The production in the old days was labor-intensive and the lace maker had to master the craft to a superior level of skill in order to produce a large sheet of lace by manipulating hundreds of small bobbins. The early clientele groups for lace were Western ladies, before the fashion and demand spread to the local people. Lace back then was used as trimming for blouses as well as for head cloths, umbrella embellishments, etc. The next morning I found my way into the small lacemaking workshop in the suburb of Galle. Watching and carefully observing the making of such a craft was an overwhelming experience that filled me with awe. I was observing two hands, so brisk in manipulating many bobbins, as if automatic without being conscious of the movement, crossing, tying, weaving, braiding all the threads, winding them around the small pins that mark the outline of the design, resulting in a delicate lace ribbon. This was definitely a mnemonic! Through this observation I had no doubt why at one point this craft almost became extinct. It is one of the most extremely difficult tasks to learn and master. It is labor-intensive and requires the practice of much concentration before one can do it well. Given the challenge that it is and due The craft of lace-making to the lack of interest, lacemaking lost its popularity over time. 4 | Page TTS Newsletter Vol. V No. II Fall 2017 HIMROO SHAWLS AND PAITHANI SILK SARIS OF MAHARASHTRA Ruth Gerson Himroo brocade weave, front and back of the cloth Himroo shawls are woven brocades that are typical to the city of Aurangabad in the Indian state of Maharashtra.