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Seattle Comes Across As a Bit of a Renegade

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Seattle Comes Across As a Bit of a Renegade by AMANDA CASTLEMAN | photography by EVAN KLEIN At first glance, Seattle comes across as a bit of a renegade. Its 615,500 inhabitants appear to run off-leash. Many seem more concerned with snowpack and saffron vodka than stock options or society galas. No one bats an eye if a coder brings his dog to work. Or when a creative director telecommutes from a café, over a latte and yam-kale wrap. Long lunches? But of course. This crowd is hard-pressed to resist the lure of the North Cascades mountains .29 or an afternoon paddle in Puget Sound, just steps below the city’s skyscrapers. Yet despite its freewheeling Neverland vibe, Seattle has transformed itself from a frontier town into a cultural capital and innovation hub—rivaling even Silicon Valley for entrepreneurial oomph. Now’s the time to visit, as this Pacific Northwest hotbed starts to truly hit its stride. 2013 ZDX tours the Emerald City Strolling past the land- mark Dutch Bike Co. café in Seattle’s old Ballard district; the city’s latest tourist attraction is a 17-story ferris wheel /2.0 at the waterfront (right). seattleacura.com FALL/WINTER 2012 Painstaking attention to detail is par for the course at Sitka & Spruce Despite its !reewheel"g vibe, Seattle has trans!ormed (opposite); houseboats are a long-standing fixture at the pier (left); itsel! !rom a !rontier town "to a cultural capital relaxing coffee break at Dutch Bike Co. (right). .30 !oodie scene Sitka & Spruce topped eggs scrambled with This locavore restaurant cheese, tortilla chips and features foraged ingredi- enchilada sauce. ents like morels and beach www.thedishseattle.com grass. The attention is pay- ing off: chef Matt Dillon just Top Pot Hand-Forged Donuts won Best Chef Northwest at This remains a flagship the James Beard Founda- among Seattle’s comfort- tion Awards. Cozy into a food concept eateries communal table under (essential when the clouds timber rafters and savor descend). Its retro cafés dishes like king salmon hammer out designer Boeing and Microsoft ignited Seattle’s transition from Gold with strawberries and donuts like the Feather Boa Rush greenhorn to technology central. Today, the area houses pickled rose petals. (pink icing and coconut www.sitkaandspruce.com shavings), winning best- eight Fortune 500 headquarters, including mega-retailers Amazon, in-the-country kudos from Nordstrom and Starbucks. Other enterprising upstarts sell outdoor Little Uncle AOL, MSN, The Travel gear (REI) and swanky cookware (Sur La Table), redefine real estate This kiosk serves two Channel and others. (Zillow and Redfin) and spread the gospel of great music to audi- Seattle mainstays in one www.toppotdoughnuts.com ences worldwide (KEXP Radio). And Seattle is just getting started. In bite: Thai cuisine and pop- up street-food innovation. Tilth his 2012 book The New Geography of Jobs, economics professor Enrico Its Capitol Hill takeout win- The country’s toughest Moretti says the city’s innovation hubs are “poised to become the dow now dishes up lunch certifier pronounced this new engines of prosperity.” and early dinner (till 8 p.m.) one of only three “real” But it’s not all chutzpah and computer code. Take a drive Tuesday through Saturday. organic restaurants in the through the distinct—and fiercely tribal—neighborhoods as they www.littleuncleseattle.com U.S. Set in a 1910 Craftsman bungalow, Tilth has a vegan mature into vibrant urban enclaves. Columbia City, home to ethnic The Dish menu alongside omnivore eateries and the live-music Beat Walk. Diamond-in-the-rough Zagat declared this offerings like paprika mus- Georgetown, where art studios and microbreweries pack brick sunny, sweet diner one of sels, pork belly with Rainier warehouses. The high-tech beehive of South Lake Union, with America’s top 25 breakfast cherries and risotto with its condos, streetcars and upscale restaurants. Adjacent to the spots. Browse the hot-sauce pine nuts, young carrots wall to perfectly spice your and dandelion greens. iconic Space Needle blooms leading-edge architecture, including Slacker Especial: salsa- www.tilthrestaurant.com the Frank Gehry-designed Experience Music Project (EMP), a bold acura.com FALL/WINTER 2012 arts # culture The Seattle Central Library Needle. Visitors can soak up USEUM M Rem Koolhaus designed this sci-fi lore and rock memora- 11-story origami-like steel- bilia via technology-intensive EMP and-glass structure. The New multimedia displays. One Yorker critic Paul Goldberger exhibit even charted North- called the 2004 building “the west music from Bing Crosby OF OURTESY C most important new library through to Hendrix, Heart, to be built in a generation, grunge and beyond. and the most exhilarating.” www.empmuseum.org Ride the chartreuse escalator to the 10th floor for views of Belltown Elliott Bay. Boutiques, galleries and res- www.spl.org taurants pack the downtown waterfront from Pike Place Chihuly Garden and Glass Market to the Seattle Art The Northwest put glass on Museum’s free Olympic the fine-art map. Its leading Sculpture Park. Fuel your light is Dale Chihuly, whose window-shopping at Macrina. work is included in more A slice of leavened heaven, outdoor than 200 museum collections this bakery reigns in reader worldwide. In May, the local polls, thanks to European adventure luminary opened a 1.5-acre recipes and long, slow Stand Up Paddleboarding permanent exhibition below fermentation that produces This Hawaiian twist on surfing is the Space Needle, just in soulful, artisanal treats. one of the country’s fastest-grow- time for the landmark’s 50th www.macrinabakery.com ing sports. Grab a board and hit anniversary. www.chihulygar- one of Seattle’s beaches, like denandglass.com Caffè Fiore Alki or Golden Gardens, where Caffè Fiore boasts four loca- the sea, city and mountains merge. EMP Museum tions, but the Old Ballard venue For a lesson, turn to Ballard’s Founded by Microsoft wins out for its gorgeous iron- Salmon Bay Paddle: its owner co-founder Paul Allen and work, smooth espresso pulls Rob Casey wrote the first compre- designed by architect Frank and south-facing Adirondack hensive SUP how-to book. Gehry, this sheet-metal struc- chairs that overlook the see- www.salmonbaypaddle.com ture resembles a smashed and-be-seen Ballard Farmers electric guitar, especially Market on Sundays. Concert Cycle when viewed from the www.caffefiore.com THE PIKE PLACE MARKET PDA. COVER LOCATION: IS A TRADEMARK OWNED BY THE PIKE PLACE MARKET CLOCK THIS PAGE: Bike the Burke Gilman, a 27-mile urban trail, and stop at Theo Chocolate for a funky fair-trade factory tour. Hard-core cyclists can push out to Woodinville’s $e good li!e %early &"es " Redhook Brewery or the Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery, both of the 'ate’s large' metropolis which host concert series. www.ci.seattle.wa.us/parks Paddle In Skyscrapers’ Shadows Loop around Lake Union, kayak- monument to the ideas and risk-taking that fuel contemporary culture. About a ing past the Sleepless in Seattle .32 mile south, 10 million visitors wander past the fish-flingers in Pike Place Market houseboat and glass-artist Dale Chihuly’s studio. On the north each year, rubbing shoulders with world-class chefs in search of exotic ingredi- shore sprawls Gas Works Park, ents and farm-to-table freshness. where emerald lawns and indus- Let gourmet java fuel your explorations. Cafés occupy almost every corner trial ruins frame the stunning You’ll find everything here at the ground zero of North American coffee culture. Artisanal roasteries, panoramic skyline. Stop nearby from fresh-cut flowers such as Vivace and Herkimer, elevate espresso-pulling to high art, backed by at Ivar’s famous replica long- to fresh-caught fish at house for alder-smoked salmon. bustling Pike Place indie cafés like the Dutch Bike Co. in the hip Ballard district. www.nwoc.com Market. The Acura ZDX And when it’s time to dine, Seattle serves up everything from pho to pu- takes the market’s pusas, but its Northwest-fusion fare best captures the flavor of this bountiful Hike the Urban Forest cobblestone streets landscape. A bite of the goat cheese tart with kale and foraged mushrooms at The tawny bluffs and shady comfortably in stride. Emmer & Rye says it all, especially when paired with one of Washington’s re- glades of Discovery Park include Pioneer Square a 534-acre natural area with vis- (opposite, top right). nowned wines, like a McCrea Mourvèdre. tas of the snow-gilded Cascades The good life clearly shines in the state’s largest metropolis (even if clouds and Olympic Mountain ranges. blanket the city 220 days a year). And when the sun sets, the town that sparked www.seattle.gov/parks acura.com FALL/WINTER 2012 nightli!e Ballard This onetime home to the Shilshole tribe and former Scandinavian fishing district has been transformed into a chic nighttime destination complete with bars, boutiques and restaurants. Local faves include the Noble Fir (microbrews and small plates) and The Sexton (juleps and Southern-com- fort fare). Plus, The Walrus and the Carpen- ter—an oyster bar that starred in Travel + Leisure’s list of America’s Best Cities For Hipsters (Seattle ranked number 1). www.myballard.com Knee-High Stocking Company Five years ago, Washington licensed craft distilleries. Now Seattle teems with spice-infused cocktails and speakeasies that require special knocks or passwords. At this gin joint, a suspendered bartender will serve a drink so dirty it needs a bath, seattle scene 'ealer/ made with scotch aged with mesquite in a Mason jar under the porch. With the features-enriched 2013 ZDX, www.kneehighstocking.com .35 Showbox and Crocodile Acura raises the bar—but not the sticker price Seattle keeps the grunge spirit alive with by ARTHUR ST.
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