2 Apparel Online India 3 Apparel Online India 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India 6 Apparel Online India 7 Apparel Online India vol. XV Issue 24

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA March 16-31, 2013 Editor CONTENTS ILA SAXENA Deputy Editor- VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Asst. Editor- shraddha gupta Senior Correspondent vani munjal Special Correspondent (Europe) Claudia Ollenhauer-Ries Advertising Team RAGHAV SOOD 08826000378 Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor JITENDER MEERWAL Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 14 16 20 28 31

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8 Apparel Online India | March 16-31 2013 9 Apparel Online India K.P. Govindasamy, President, Tirupur Export Has Tirupur finally emerged from the ‘bleak’ business Knit-Wear Manufacturers Association scenario seen over the last nearly two years… What are the (TEKMA), Tirupur  Now the Tirupur business Mind order positions… Have the buyers who had shifted business is picking up at both levels – export as well away from the centre during the processing crises, brought as the domestic market, though the latter is back the business? Does Tirupur have enough processing growing much faster. Meanwhile, FTA with capacities now? Europe is a great hope for us as Tirupur is treeTOPIC OF DEBATE exporting majorly into Europe. We are also exploring new markets apart from Europe. Government is also helping in the processing C. Rathinasamy, Proprietor, Freeway Clothing R. Muthukumar, MD, Texture Clothing capacities and improving systems; it is not a Company, Tirupur  The situation in Tirupur Company, Tirupur  From October 2012 we problem now and the current capacities is also is now improving and we are seeing some are getting tremendous orders, even we have enough as per the requirement. positive signs both in order positions from refused some orders due to labour shortage. buyers and processing capacities. Problems In my individual opinion, this labour shortage Savithri, CEO, Mango Fashion, Tirupur  like electricity and labour shortage are still problem will get solved in the coming 2-3 Gradually the business of Tirupur is growing, there but these are going to be solved in near months when migratory labour will come back. although it may differ from company to future. Tirupur industry is now highly conscious As far as the processing is concerned, most of the company, but overall this city is growing now. and is investing in zero discharge that will be CTPs are working and doing a good job, so that So far as the buyers are concerned, while the beneficial in future. But challenges are still there is not an issue any more. All in all, Tirupur is back old buyers are still working with us, we are also like zero discharge has increased the cost for on track and will gear up in the next few months. approaching the new buyers and have recently garment manufacturers while international Few exporters may not agree with my point of succeeded in adding few new buyers from conditions are also difficult which are completely view but in the last 16 years I have seen and have UK. We are working in other markets also as uncontrollable. Some companies are now going strongly faced the buyers who are always difficult business is not up to that level where it should for expansion and few are waiting, however, it is to work with. We have to work in other directions be or it can be. Processing capacities are enough sad that new players and the Gen Next are not like reducing the margins and overheads to today and the same is increasing day by day, interested to join Tirupur garment industry. be competitive. which is a good news.

10 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 mindtree

V. Sekar, Head, SIHMA Institute of the Government to solve is to reduce the Fashion Designing and Apparel Training/ interest rate on the machinery as nowadays Venkateswara Tex, Tirupur  There is still a it is 16.5%, which is too high. If this interest feeling that Tirupur industry is not well and it rate is reduced, even new entrepreneurs may is not easy to change the public sentiments, come in our industry. but the actual ground situation is that the industry is growing; we are expecting and are R. Duraisamy, Director, Sunrise Mind confident for long-term growth. Unfortunately, Tirupur industry is not motivating manpower Mills, Tirupur  Last four years were very- and middle level management and the number very tough for Tirupur exporters but now the tree conditions have improved a little as we are of students in garmenting courses has been QUESTION decreasing in recent years. We are facing high again getting orders, but it does not mean cost compared to competitive countries due that our difficulties are over. Buyers are not to increased processing cost, and international paying the reasonable price and we are The general perception today is that buyers are not going to share this cost. working very hard on this. the business is looking up… yet few have any hardcore reasons to back the positive vibe. Do you agree that M. Ilango, MD, Amarson , Tirupur  T.R. Srikanth, President, Tirupur Export Knit 2013 will be a better year for exports Printers Association, Tirupur  Yes, I feel that Things are stable now as we have enough than the last year… If yes, what are Tirupur has finally emerged from the bleak capacities and buyers are coming back to business scenario that was present in the last Tirupur. In next two-three years, we will the indications coming from your two-three years. We are getting orders now definitely grow at a very good rate. Still we buyers, and from which market that and those who are not able to do export or are not using our full capacities for processing makes you feel confident of business are not willing to do so, are also doing well in but we need not to fear as day by day various revival this year? domestic market. You will see that after two- business houses are using more and more three years Tirupur again will be doing very capacitates of their units. There were problems Post your comments on Be a part of our latest discussions... good business. Apart from local problems, like and the same will remain, but still business will http://www.linkedin.com/groups?home=&gid=4128357&trk=anet_ug_hm labour/power, one other issue which we want grow, and I am more than sure of that.

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 11 worldwrap

mong the fastest growing economies of today, China’s WORLDSNIPS Gross National Income (GNI) From being the world’s biggest per capita has expanded 13 Target debuts first three times over the past two decades, Canadian stores manufacturer, often referred to and the total urban consumption by 2015 Target Corp is to open its first as the ‘factory of the world’, to is likely to exceed 13.3 trillion renminbi three stores in Canada. The three soon become the third biggest (US $ 1.96 trillion), with the average pilot stores, which are located income of the Chinese consumers growing in the Ontario cities of Guelph, consumer market after the US and so has the capacity to spend. Milton and Fergus, will be followed and Japan by 2015, according Within the current structure of the by an additional 24 stores in to a study by McKinsey, Chinese clothing market, domestic brands Ontario later this month. The the retail sector of China is play a critical role in the mass segment, Minneapolis-based company said such as men’s shirts, knitted underwear, these stores mark the final phase flourishing and attracting down coats, jackets, pants and sweaters. in a testing process, which was global retailers to bank on After all this segment has always been designed to prepare systems, train China’s core strength in manufacturing team members and determine the opportunity each passing even in the international marketplace. In operational readiness. season. Be it the e-market that fact, the middle and low end of the market

French Connection warned over misleading online prices French Connection has had Growing Affluence of Chinese Shoppers its knuckles rapped by the Advertising Standards Authority Creating Opportunities to tap China Market (ASA) for breaching rules on misleading advertising, pricing and price comparisons. The ASA has has a product mix of foreign and domestic upheld a complaint that the chain brands, with most of the goods being promoted a dress at a reduced manufactured in China. This is a market price for longer than it was sold at which is not easy to penetrate for those the original higher price. French looking at entering the Chinese market. Connection promoted the item as its Spotlight Dress at a reduced However, the high-end market is dominated price of £ 120 down from £ 125. to a large extent by overseas brands, which The chain denied it had misled are expected to accelerate their expansions customers and provided evidence into China. The market is diverse with the that the dress had been sold at high-end domestic clothing market in China the higher price, but the ASA ruled being dominated by brands of European that it had been sold at £ 120 for origin and other imported products, such 30 days longer than at full price, as Giorgio Armani, , Hugo making the promotion misleading. Boss, Dunhill, Chanel, Dior, Ermenegildo Zegna and Salvatore Ferragamo. Set to Walmart in line to open account for more than 20 per cent of the 500 Neighbourhood world’s luxury market by 2015, according Market stores to market reports, luxury consumption in the country is predicted to grow 18 per cent Walmart will open 115 small- is pumping in sales for foreign annually from 2010 to 2015, and reach US format stores this year, to $ 27 billion by 2015. In 2006, Gucci had six later target 500, according brands which still don’t have stores in China but it now has 39, while to Bill Simon, President and their physical stores setup Hermes quadrupled its stores from five in CEO of Walmart US, during a 2005 to 20 today. presentation at Raymond James within the country, to the Institutional Investors conference. growing luxury market and Flourishing not only as a market, but He noted that Walmart’s smaller- also the progressive tastes of moving up the value chain, the country format stores (below 60,000 sq. is also bringing production to its doors, ft.) are making inroads against the Chinese customers, every becoming a manufacturer of , dollar stores, supermarkets and aspect of China’s growing as the clothing industry still possesses drug stores and will play a key great competitive advantage in terms of role in the company’s future. consumerism is making it labour cost, lead time, vertical integration “They compete really well against the next big destination for of the industry, the variety of products, multiple channels,” Simon said. shopping and sales… and political stability from a Chinese perspective. While 20 per cent of Prada’s

12 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 worldwrap

luxury collection is now made of lifestyle and fashion attitudes a global celebration for apparel in China, French luxury group in China, which is making a and luxury brands around the LVMH’s Moet is also planning to booming market for sportswear world, especially in Europe and WORLDSNIPS start production of its sparkling as well as clothing and footwear the United States. In 2012’s Year wines in the remote Ningxia Hui for outdoor activities. Domestic Hingis launches new of the Dragon, brands seizing tennis apparel region. brands such as Li-Ning, Peak, the opportunity developed Although the luxury market is 361 and Anta are gaining a larger specific products for the Chinese Martina Hingis in association the fastest growing, the country share of the domestic market market, drawing heavily on with a Vancouver based fashion still has a great market capacity compared with previous years. local mythology and design house has launched a new line for mass fashion. The rapid clues. Even more brands have of tennis wear especially to Chinese tourists, a provide comfort and beauty to growth rate of mass fashion joined the fray in 2013, looking growing market… the feminine element. Hingis provides a larger market space to capitalize on the snake’s was reportedly struck by the to affordable fast fashion brands While new players are entering symbolism of good fortune, as Vancouver-based Tonic clothes such as Zara, H&M, C&A, Next the country, and already an ancient symbol of power and while the legendary Swiss was and UR. In the market segment existing ones continue to reap temptation. Be it Alfred Dunhill, browsing in a Chelsea sports store. The 3-time Australian The Chinese New Year is Open Champion first wore Tonic clothing way back in 2010 now a global celebration Wimbledon, during which she for apparel and luxury came up with the thought of brands around the world. In launching a tennis line of Tonic 2013, looking to capitalize clothing. Hingis said it was great on the snake’s symbolism to create such a line and that of good fortune, brands it was a “solution to beauty, like Converse, Bulgari, comfort and femininity.” The fabrics for the line of wear were Davidoff, Gucci, Louis developed to maintain durability Vuitton and Harrods, each and performance. Having a had something unique to soft cotton feel, Libra is odour offer to the clients. resistant, quick drying and very breathable, and which can be worn and washed repeatedly. of men’s shirts, domestic brands the profits of this growing Bulgari, Davidoff, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, or Harrods, everyone enjoy the lion’s share. Most economy, brands are also eyeing Gap Inc now occupies men’s shirts all over the world the Chinese travellers who had something unique to offer to the clients. more floor space in Asia are made in China. Youngor, Firs, are growing in number each than in Europe Conch and Rouse are the top four passing year, as the country “Chinese shoppers represent brands in the domestic market. is today the world’s fastest the most significant, and rapidly Following the close of Gap’s fourth quarter for 2012 (February With a rising number of growing travel market. With 65 growing, proportion of our 28), the number of squared working women, the demand million outbound departures international customer base. We metres occupied by the brand for women’s clothing, both expected this year, the UN World attribute this performance to in Asia is in excess of that in business and casual, is Travel Organization estimates our continued drive to provide Europe, after the group opened expected to experience a great that there will be 100 million these visitors with a tailored no less than 16 stores in Asia in increase. It can be estimated Chinese outbound trips by 2020, shopping experience unrivalled the past three months compared that the women’s office wear and travel will become a top by any other store. Chinese to just two in Europe. For its and business casual wear priority for the newly wealthy New Year affords us an exciting financial year 2013, the American markets will be the fastest in a country, these travellers opportunity to give something group, whose ambition is to growing segments. Because of are spending on international back to these customers generate more of its revenue the promising future market brands extravagantly. Last year by paying tribute to their abroad is looking to expand in in children’s wear, a number Chinese tourists accounted for a country’s rich tradition,” said a Asia. Gap has opened 33 stores of domestic brands which fifth of all tax free sales across spokesperson from Harrods. and outlets in China this year and previously focused on adult the UK, increasing by 31% Y-O-Y, is set to open 35 more this year. clothing are attempting to enter Luxury brands are set to benefit In Japan, Old Navy is planning this market by expanding their the most from this uplift, with to open 20 new stores after the product lines. The prominent high--worth Chinese spending success of its first store opening kids’ brands include Yaduo, on average £712 per tax free there last year. For the year Shuihaier, M-linge and Yeeshow. transaction favouring handbags, 2012, the group recorded an 11% Most of them are usually jewellery and watches. growth increase in Asia, with much cheaper than the foreign One of the biggest impacts of revenue of 924 million euros (or brands and are distributed via Chinese booming tourism is seen 1.2 billion dollars), while growth different channels. in the preparations made for the in Canada progressed by 6% to Since the 2008 Olympic Chinese New Year, turning the 753 million euros. Games, sport has become a part predominantly local event into

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 13 sustainability

As people spend a large part of their lives at work, the work environment has become one of the most critical factors for determining employee satisfaction these days. Many companies have already understood the importance of employee engagement and have started working towards building up a positive and motivating work environment that also spells success for the organization. One such recent effort is the in-house newsletter ‘GUPSHUP’ launched by Bangalore based Go Go International. The force behind the initiative, Lalita Goenka, Director, Go Go International shares the journey of the newsletter and how it has acted as a binding thread for the employees, management and even buyers. Go Go International increases employee engagement with ‘GUPSHUP'…

hen Lalita Goenka fruits of an extremely motivated the fashion segment that comes joined the family workforce. “GUPSHUP has from the design department of business ten years been an awesomely exciting the company and any kind of ago to help her platform for the company, as celebration happening in and Whusband in the business, setup all the employees are directly around Go Go’s premises; like by her father-in-law, S S Goenka involved with what goes into their annual retreat, cricket in 1983, she was given the onus the supplement, the feeling of matches with the customers, of handling an Italian buyer who belongingness can clearly be seen festivals or occasions like was into heavily embroidered in them. They have become more International Women’s Day, garments. Slowly she took charge like a family,” shares an elated the Cricket World Cup, etc. of the Go Go’s hand embroidery Lalita. Interestingly, Lalita also “My ‘GUPSHUP’ team, besides department with respect to feels that the issues have worked me, consists of newsletter developing new design like magic in increasing the designer Shobha and of course concepts, pricing, company’s efficiencies as it has the whole Go Go staff that sourcing and guiding proved to be one of their major gives their contributions and the production and drives to build a strong team. thoughts that appear as articles technical team. Along “The word ‘GUPSHUP’ indicates of the newsletter. To make it with that Lalita also a light informal conversation an interesting read, Shobha started taking interest between two people, or more like makes it a point to add a lot of in issues of work gossip over a cup of tea and I images, with artistic fonts and place aesthetics and wanted to maintain that informal fun elements while designing it,” employee engagement. vibe and project it to be more of informs Lalita. Three years ago, a light in-house reading rather To make it more accessible and browsing through her than an informatory tool about huge in the coming times not kid’s school newspaper, our company. The entire motive only for the organization but Firmly believing Lalita realized the importance was to involve the teams, and for the industry as well, the in the maxim of having an in-house magazine not tell them what they already company is in talks to introduce that Team is that provided all the information knew,” says a vibrant Lalita. the GUPSHUP newsletters on about ‘Together about the ongoing activities, The contents of the newsletter their website and also send them Everyone individual achievements, as include, recognition for to their buyers and suppliers Achieves well as giving an opportunity to employees for their achievements so as to rope them in as well. More’, Lalita staff members to explore their in various fields, inspiring quotes “The future of the newsletter is was sure that hidden talents, by sharing. The and stories, riddles, jokes and definitely going to be brighter idea once formulated, became the newsletter a monthly motivating message and bigger, as we will provide an instant hit and three years from the Chairman S S Goenka. everyone with an insight on was for the and various supplements later, employees Apart from this, the issues also what’s going on at Go Go,” the company is reaping the contains the latest trends in concludes Lalita excitingly.

14 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 15 Apparel Online India sourcinghub

India and Bangladesh Together Make a Formidable Sourcing Hub

years, build a strong vendor base Global competition is just getting tougher and garment manufacturing and explore product options. The countries are going all out to attract the buyer who is dictating his terms from India office under Leela Kanuga is responsible for developing product to price. Added on to this is the fact that manufacturing in China is vendor base in Bangladesh decreasing and slowly but steadily buyers are either already shifting some also. The biggest advantage of business out of the country or looking to do so in the near future. It is also Bangladesh according to Leela is of GSP preference in both clear that buyers do not want to put all their ‘eggs in the same basket’ so as Europe and Canada. “As of today, to say and therefore prefer to spread their sourcing required between two or if my Canadian buyer has a three manufacturing countries to dilute risk. Considering the evolving matrix sharp price product then I may lose order if India price is high, of sourcing, many new buying patterns may be expected to develop… one but I will get the order if I go to which is already being used by many retailers is to buy in ‘regions’ rather than Bangladesh even if the FOB price is the same due to duty benefit, in ‘countries’ and one regional hub that has the potential to service almost all as Bangladesh goods will land sourcing needs of international brands is the ‘India-Bangladesh’ combine… 18 per cent cheaper in Canada,” reasons Leela. Today, most of the buyers know exactly what they want to t a seminar last year hub is a paradise with each source and from where. H&M Deepika Rana, country having core strengths. which is a major buyer for both Executive Vice- While India and Pakistan are countries has a very well defined President and fully integrated with India product profile for India and A scoring on design, Bangladesh Bangladesh. Sourcing majorly Country Director, Li & Fung, India openly admitted that has cheap labour and Sri for tops and dresses from Indian sourcing from India without Lanka the efficiencies,” says manufacturers, H&M banks on including Bangladesh is Deepika. Between the countries Indian strengths looking for unviable. She in fact goes a step there is labour cost advantage, those pieces which are more further to add Pakistan and Sri GSP advantage, raw material embellished and sequined along availability, product strength with garments that are a little to do almost any category more stylized in terms of value- Most buyers agree that Indian and Bangladesh including home furnishing added details like gathering, and leather, articulation pleating and ruching. FOB’s should not be looked as competitors and on design, and to top it all range from a minimum of US one can consider the two countries more as the communication skills to $ 2 for very basic pieces which a region with complementary synergies – understand and feed the buyer. have almost no details, to a each having their own strengths – in terms of Today, most buyers are maximum of US $ 15 for pieces aggressively looking to develop that are more complicated and product, capacities, flexibility and value add alternate bases to China. “China high fashion. From Bangladesh, services. To a brand or retailer, both countries may still be huge, but for long- products sourced include mass will have relevance, specific to the needs to term sustenance it is important volumes of basic jerseys and the brand/retailer. to spread out the risk… while sleeveless T-shirts with minimum most buyers are already in quantities of 2 million pieces Vietnam and Cambodia, India with FOBs which are less than Lanka in the regional net so that and Bangladesh together are an US $ 7. Very basic items have between these four countries exciting combination to handle lead times as less as 24 days buyers can get a complete both core programmes and which can go up to 3 months for vertically integrated supply fashion,” says Christopher Tse, other categories like jackets, chain from fibre to finished CEO, Contempo Limited, adding outerwear, leggings, sweat product with capabilities to do they are under-invested in these tops and night , along with a product range from basics to two countries and the strategy volumes of bottoms in menswear high-fashion in various product is to consolidate the operations categories like cargos and shorts. categories. “The region as a in the region over the first three Another important product

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category from Bangladesh is of Bangladesh Country Head's Speak... a role to play in this category of basics and in much lesser , lead times for which are and is facing an uphill task as priced, a good quality sweater up to 124 days, and FOB’s range it cannot compete on prices. can be almost 30% cheaper from from US $ 9 to US $ 10. The costing of a product Bangladesh if landing in Europe, Denims are in fact, one of the goes haywire right from the which is a big difference,” shares major categories for most buyers fabric stage. “A standard washed Sudarshan Sharma, Director, and a few years ago, India lost denim from an Indian mill cost CD Lifestyle. He adds that even a lot of its denim business to around Rs. 150 (US $ 4-5) a in T-shirts if it is a basic printed Bangladesh, mostly from GAP. metre in India, the same fabric one, Bangladesh is the choice, What GAP has retained in India is available in Bangladesh for but if the buyer wants double is denim products with handwork US $ 2.4, added to that is the mercerized, dyed with on it, accounting for around 15% CMT cost which is around US $ washes or some multi layered of total buying of denim from 16-18 per dozen in Bangladesh value prints than Tirupur is the region. “Value added styles and would work out at around the destination. are more frequently attempted US $ 25-30 per dozen in India. To counter balance the cost of Abby Jamal, MD, ZXY Buying Office by factories that have skilled On final costing a pair of jeans manufacturing, many exporters workforce as against automation which works out to US $ 5-7 in from India are targeting high as required to do basic jeans, Bangladesh would cost a buyer value buyers from Europe and which is why the value added over US $ 10 in India,” reasons US market for brands like Ralph segment is still with India,” Roopak Malik, Director – Lauren, Abercrombie, Brooks argues Yogesh Khurana, MD, Textiles Sourcing Limited. Brother, Hugo Boss, Charles GAP. Today Lindex is sourcing In the boxer shorts category, Tyrwhitt to name a few. Products about US $ 80 million worth Bangladesh has out priced India sourced by these brands are of goods from Bangladesh, and American eagle – one of retailed at US $ 60 and above and in denim it sources nearly the prominent buyers for this and in smaller quantities. Dip 60% of the product group category has shifted its entire dyed shirts, hand embellished from Bangladesh. “The way boxer sourcing from India to garments are well received by US the business in Bangladesh is Bangladesh and China, which are and European market and these booming it is important to have manufacturing at Rs. 202.8 per products are India’s strength with an office in the country. As I see piece, as against India’s price of no competitors as such. “Easy it, India is a very niche market, Suman Tripathi, Country Manager, Lindex (BD) around Rs. 273 to Rs. 286. Again fabric imports regulations allow while Bangladesh is the market India has never been competitive Bangladesh great flexibility in for everybody,” says Suman in good casual bottoms which are fabric sourcing and are increasing Tripathi, Country Manager, chino shorts and pants in its popularity in those fashion Lindex (BD). and canvasses with different garments where imported fabrics According to global statistics, types of washes. This is due to are required. But where Indian for the US the top three fact that the fabric used in this fabrics are preferred in fashion, manufacturing hubs for denim category is basically twill and India is the hub for sourcing,” wear are Mexico, China and , both of which are un- says Suman. Bangladesh, who between them competitively priced in India. Also even as Bangladesh is trying account for about 45% of total In the sweater category, to increase its fashion element… imports to the US in denim wear. Bangladesh is the first limitations remain. “When people In the EU the top countries are preference for most of the come to Bangladesh they want China, Turkey and Bangladesh buyers. “All our sweater needs it cheap and they don’t want to and they collectively account are being met by the Bangladesh pay for high-end techniques like for around 54% of total imports office as the country has digital prints. They say, if we have to the region. India hardly has Amit Bansal, MD, SA Sourcing (BD) redefined the quality needs to buy digital we can go to any

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 17 sourcinghub

part of the world why come to around 150-200 thousand pieces very well be an overlap in the Bangladesh,” says Amit Bansal, per month of more value added two countries – examples are MD, SA Sourcing (BD). The knits,” says Abby Jamal, MD, men’s shirts or tops. But, challenging aspect of doing ZXY Buying Office. He adds then there would be further fashion in Bangladesh is keeping that while the minimum labour differentiation by way of value prices down, despite the value cost in Bangladesh is US $ 50, add either in quality, treatment addition. For the Indian domestic in India it is almost around or design which would then brand Madura, SA Sourcing is US $ 120-130, so most buyers make the difference in the price majorly buying tops and formal shifting out of China want to and positioning of the product. shirts, while for Arvind they source from Bangladesh. Says Vivek Bhatnagar, CEO, are sourcing T-shirts, formal At Asmara, while the India Fusion Consulting Services, shirts and casual shirts from office was intimated in 2004 “To my mind we are not Bangladesh. After 7 years of deep for sourcing casual fashion, competitors rather we are understanding of the industry, outerwear, bottoms, shirts, complementing each other and Amit feels that Bangladesh is high-end garments, accessories, customers are the ones who still at a very nascent stage in leather and home products, the want to view and think and use Bangladesh operations came a the negotiation towards their year later in 2005. “With a global advantages despite all the issues presence we can place an order that Bangladesh sourcing brings in the country best suited for along with it, it is imperative the product on one hand and on for brands and fashion retailers the other we can bring in brands to source out of Bangladesh from other centres, which may and India. The sheer need for otherwise not be too keen to profitability and numbers drives work in India simply because every large order towards they believe in our services and Bangladesh with its low prices delivery capabilities,” reasons and duty-free advantages.” Devender Gupta, Director, European brands need Asmara International. In Bangladesh especially for the Bangladesh, the product mix for classic basics and the fashion Asmara is basic knits for Tom basic start price level. All Tailor and 100% woven for A&F. fashion retailers in Europe who “We do not do knits for A&F from are at the very top, source from To counter balance the Bangladesh as they are more Bangladesh not only due to price value added and the lead times cost of manufacturing, Bottoms ar the core strength of Bangladesh advantage but also the sheer are very short. We did try for a many exporters from size of their orders. “Look at the season but after that we moved it Zara, H&M, Bershka products India are targeting fashion. “For handling multiple to India because after importing in the core basic categories, styles, you need a strong middle high value buyers from the delivering those quantities are upwards of management, as it is important Europe and US market the garment in 90 days was 2,00,000 pieces a style and to be to have a trained person to for brands like Ralph impossible. We are now focusing turned around in 100 days with coordinate between different only on wovens, 90% of fabric is Lauren, Abercrombie, multiple styles and articles to be processes and departments, being imported from Pakistan produced in the same period – Brooks Brother, Hugo as required in fashion, but and we are converting it here. How many large manufacturers Boss, Charles Tyrwhitt in Bangladesh there is acute We do 95% bottom-cargos and does India have who can deliver to name a few. Products shortage of young professionals chinos and 5% jackets, no shirts, on a consistent and regular basis to handle the middle sourced by these all casual heavily washed,” at that level,” questions Vivek. management,” adds Amit. brands are retailed at informs Manish Ojha, Country Fusion also takes the decision US $ 60 and above and ZXY Buying Office, sourcing Manager, Asmara Bangladesh. where to place the order based in smaller quantities. about US $ 120 million worth Interestingly, all the buyers who on the need and meeting of goods from Bangladesh is Dip dyed shirts, hand shared their views agree that these aspects of the enquiry, expanding its operations in the Indian and Bangladesh should as opposed to the product embellished garments region to offer international not be looked as competitors category competition. “India are well received by US buyers a wide variety of products and one can consider the two can make bottoms and so does and European market from basic polo T-shirts to high countries more as a region with Bangladesh; India also makes and these products are value lingerie. In India, the complementary synergies – flat knit sweaters and so does India’s strength with no buying office has operations in each country having their own Bangladesh; India – Tirupur Noida which is the sourcing hub competitors as such. strengths – in terms of product, also makes basic T-shirts and so for products like blouses and capacities, flexibility and value does Bangladesh; yet the sheer fleece flat knits, and one office add services. To a brand or size of a factory, the working in Tripura for fashion knits. “In retailer, both countries will have capital and the productivity knits, from Bangladesh we do relevance, specific to the needs necessary for profitability exists 20-25 lakh pieces every month, to the brand/retailer. In certain in Bangladesh and not in India,” while the Tirupur office sources product categories, there could concludes Vivek.

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Bhilwara…The City of Entrepreneurs Diversifying into Cotton Weaving, Shirting, Uniform Fabrics and Sheeting

 Traditionally catering to low-end market segment with PV fabrics  Currently manufacturing for many Indian suiting brands  Capable of world class PV processing and  Over the counter sales in PV declining; more garment manufacturers buying fabrics  In exports, the city is catering to Middle East & Latin American markets  Players now entering into denim, cotton shirting, home furnishing and uniform fabrics

rowing at a steady The infrastructure A new thrust and pace, it was after the in Bhilwara has momentum to the industrial multi-fibre agreement developed over time, in 2005 that Bhilwara development of the district, G the only limitation saw major growth as a PV fabric which ultimately puts manufacturing hub, housing now is that it does Bhilwara’s name on the around 350 weaving units. not have RMG The most attractive aspect of world map came with the sector, which is Bhilwara is that it is a self- more developed in foundation of the LNJ sufficient hub in PV fabrics. Delhi and Bangalore. Group by Laxmi Niwas Right from fibre, yarn, weaving and processing, the city is well- The reason why Jhunjhunwala, who put up CHHABRA SYNCOTEX equipped and there is never RMG is not that the first spinning unit in dearth of business as still 95% much developed the town. And since then of the total production is of very here is because of basic suiting fabric ranging Bhilwara has emerged as between Rs. 80 to Rs. 120 per weak designing, one of the most important metre, which is in demand the once that develops and largest textile centres year around. Out of 350 weaving here, there is no of the country in PV suiting. companies in Bhilwara, there are problem in the raw around 30-40 companies which material segment. Testimonial to the vibrancy are into exports, constantly of the region was evident looking at new markets and buyers from countries like Bhilwara is majorly when the Rs. 4500 crore GALUNDIA TEXTILES Afghanistan, Dubai, Latin making spun based LNJ Group, which is still America which keep visiting fabric, the feel for that firmly rooted in Bhilwara, the hub. is different from the proudly celebrated its According to R.P. Agarwal, textured feel. That is Golden Jubilee last year. Chief Executive, Sarvodaya Suiting Ltd., one of the one of the reasons Team Apparel Online main reasons for the growth India’s fabrics are recently revisited the town of Bhilwara is the spirit of lighter than Chinese for a fresh update on the entrepreneurship, where every fabric. As far as company got into manufacturing hub, meeting a new set of of PV suiting fabrics with low Italian fabrics are concerned it’s all entrepreneurs... SUBH LAXMI SYNTEX margins. “Bhilwara has not faced any drop in manufacturing about finishes.

20 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 Tex-file

despite market conditions and work on ‘Four Point Gradation there has never been a shutdown KANCHAN GROUP System’. Every minor defect is of any company. Entrepreneurs countable under the system and here are motivated to take new if there are more defects than initiatives and the quality of permitted, the fabric is rejected,” fabric has definitely improved in informs Panagaria. terms of finishing, and designs,” Completely dependent in local states Agarwal. Sarvodaya is resources, not even a single planning to add more finishing PV manufacturer in Bhilwara machines as new finishes is using imported fibres. In are being demanded by the dyed PV yarn, LNJ Group is buyers. “Sheen in the fabric is a one of the biggest suppliers, requirement for today’s market, Bhilwara does followed by Sangam, SRS, Birla initially people demanded good Group, Banswara Syntex and weight in fabric, but now people not have the Asian Tex to name a few, who ask for a good bounce and feel Jayesh Banger, Managing Director expertise to are feeding the hub with their in fabric. Keeping pace, the Initiated in 1996, Kanchan entered the finish Surat PV fibres and . Recron quality of finishes being offered textile segment with PV yarns. Moving kind of fabrics staple fibres from Reliance has really upgraded in Bhilwara on the path of constant growth and Industries are major source of in the last three to four years; which is for expansion, the company started its the fibres for most in fact, many companies in ladieswear as operations in processing in 2000, setup of the Bhilwara players. The Bhilwara have installed state- a spinning unit in 2009, a denim unit in it’s all basically PV manufacturers in Bhilwara of-the-art machines during this 2012 with five lines, and added another filament based shared that a lot of orders which period,” adds Agarwal. feather to their cap by starting work in fabric. Most were earlier catered by China are pouring into Bhilwara and Yet, not all agree that processing 100% cotton fabrics in January 2013. of the woman facilities and capabilities have they are confident that they can The company’s current production wear fabrics upgraded as significantly as capacity is 50 lakh metres/month, beat China in PV fabric as they it should have. “We are ahead which comes to around 6 crore metres have stretch are equipped to do small lots in technology for weaving and per annum. As per the company’s with ; which is the USP of India and spinning, but in processing, we reports, the organization will start and are 100% the current pattern of demand in the international market. have not advanced as much, manufacturing around 20 lakh metres polyester. The and no new processing units of cotton fabric from March itself, that “China will never do 800 metres are being setup here,” avers will take up the total fabric production machines here per colour shade; they would S.L. Panagaria, Managing of the group to one crore metre are suitable not even talk about it, while Director, Subh Laxmi Syntex. per month. for doing only India is very capable to do that,” argues Agarwal. The company is famous for its Working majorly with domestic brands 218s, 230s, product development skills and and markets, Kanchan Group is 240s counts. Mumbai based Galundia Textiles, is catering to all top PV brands planning to expand its operations specializing in cotton and and garment manufacturers to international market as well. The shirting fabrics entered into like Madura and the likes. present turnover of the company is Bhilwara about 15 years back Almost 80% of its products are Rs. 1,600 crore, which is expected to to put up a PV weaving setup. developed in-house, while the reach around Rs. 2,200 crore by next “The entire region is doing so balance 20% is created as per FY. The company is currently working well,” says Sudeep Galundia, buyer’s specifications. Working on their upcoming expansion of five Managing Director, Galundia with the corporate sector, lines for denim in Surat. The estimated Textiles. Though PV is well quality consciousness is very investment is around Rs. 700 crore. placed in Bhilwara, as it has high. “These top-end brands demand throughout the year, but

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 21 Tex-file

SUBH LAXMI SYNTEX CHHABRA SYNCOTEX GALUNDIA TEXTILES

S.L. Panagaria, Managing Director Sandeep Chhabra, Director Sudeep Galundia, Managing Director

Bhilwara based Subh Laxmi, known for Working with the domestic market for Mumbai based company, Galundia manufacturing, processing and finishing synthetic fabric bases for suiting and Textiles, started off as traders for of blended suiting and shirting fabrics, upholstery products, Chhabra Syncotex corporates like Raymond, BSL, Mayur is providing its products for various was initiated in 1988. Majorly dealing and Digjam. With time the company went market segments. The fabric range with wholesalers, the group is a cluster in for backward integration and started of the organization includes different of three companies namely Chhabra, manufacturing fabrics. The company blends like polyester viscose, poly New Point and Newton, all completely works with projectile, Sulzer looms from cotton, polyester viscose lycra, poly dedicated to the textiles segment. While Switzerland and manufactures 100% viscose linen, poly viscose cotton flex Chhabra and New Point work with suiting polyester and PV blended fabric for suiting, and other functional finishes. Primarily bases in PV, PC, and in Bhilwara. The Mumbai unit looks majorly focusing on premium brands like for menswear, Newton is manufacturing after the manufacturing of in shirting Raymond, Turtle, ITC and Blackberry, fabric for the home furnishing segment. and suiting, 100% and garments. the company caters to clients all over With a total fabric production capacity The company is catering to buyers in the the country. The company’s specialty of around 1.5 crore metres per annum, Latin American market and Europe. The in designs and the capability to stay the group’s current turnover is Rs. 70 companies FOB’s for Latin America lies ahead of market trends six months crore. Apart from their weaving, the anywhere between US $ 2.25 to US $ 2.75 in advance gives it an edge over its company also has an in-house unit for per metre. While all the basic qualities competitors. The current weaving processing and finishing that processes are being outsourced from Bhilwara, the capacity of the company is around 5-6 somewhere around 30 lakh metres of company’s current fabric manufacturing lakh metres/month. fabric every month. capacity is 4 lakh metres/month.

Bhilwara textile industry wants major cut in the power costs along with some rebate on the VAT which is presently 5% in Rajasthan as they have to compete with States like Gujarat and Maharashtra it is also a very stereo kind of Product Diversification years ago and has five lines; Chhabra Syncotex Ltd. is market with a fixed domestic we started eight months ago another PV manufacturing Many Bhilwara manufacturers clientele with a certain price with five lines,” says the young company which has diversified feel that the suiting market barrier, and one cannot go Managing Director Jayesh into other fabrics, primarily for is saturated now and most of beyond that price bracket. Banger proudly. Relating home furnishing and uniform them are not looking at making “We eventually shifted the the history of his company, fabrics. According to Sandeep any expansion in the same domestic business to our Jayesh says, “My father was Chhabra, Director of the category, but are rather looking into wool yarn manufacturing company, to have a sustainable Mumbai office and now we are at diversifying into other fabric for the carpet industry and growth it is important to diversify only doing our export orders types. Following the footsteps my brother after completing into other fabrics. “The first from here,” points out Sudeep, of Sangam India, Kanchan his CA ventured into PV diversification for us was making who is exporting his fabrics to Group doing a turnover of fabric manufacturing. After a slight shift to manufacture places like Peru, Guatemala Rs. 1600 crore and looking at completing my graduation, uniform fabrics as the demand and Panama which are still touching Rs. 2200 crore by next I also joined the business is growing and next we added selling fabrics over the counter. year, has recently ventured and subsequently in 2000 we furnishing fabrics basically for However, there are certain into denim manufacturing. invested in processing. The next upholstery,” avers Sandeep who markets which are ready-to- “You can see our strength and expansion came in 2009 when maintains that Bhilwara is still wear for which Sudeep deals credibility through the fact we setup a spinning unit, and not upfront in terms of product with agents who cater to the that Sangam ventured into last year we have added denim development and a majority of garment manufacturers. denim manufacturing four manufacturing to our profile.” players only produce fabrics

22 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 23 Apparel Online India Tex-file

as per buyer’s specifications in Fact File JANKI CORP. LTD. terms of counts, numbers, weight SARVODAYA SUITINGS and colours.  In spinning, out of 32 mills in the Shirt fabric manufacturing is a very recent development State 14 mills are in in Bhilwara, just about two Bhilwara district. years old. One of the main  Producing 2 lakh reasons that it has developed tonne yarn, which in Bhilwara today is due to the is 44% of State’s low manufacturing cost in the yarn production? city with many Mumbai based companies outsourcing shirting  3.90 lakh new spindles fabrics from Bhilwara and installed during last getting it finished in Mumbai. three years, total Even Topman from Mumbai, spindlage 6.58 lakh. Lalit Kumar Babel, Director known for its shirting fabric is  Exporting 65% of R.P. Agarwal, Chief Executive now in Bhilwara in technical tie State’s yarn export. Initiated by brothers Abhay Janki Corporation, which up with a process house. Jain, Sushil Jain and Kamlesh commenced in 1994, started its  Out of 17,000 Janki Corp. Ltd., which started Jain, Sarvodaya is a wholesale operations with the processing of (approx.) looms its operations in 1994 as a supplier of fabrics that deals with fabrics, after adding weaving in working at Bhilwara, process house, entered into both weaving and processing of 2000; the company is today dealing 15,000 looms are weaving in 2000 and two years fabrics suitable for shirting and with both processing and weaving modern technology back the company forayed into suiting requirements. of fabrics in Bhilwara. Working with shuttleless loom. manufacturing cotton shirting bulk quantities the capacities of the fabrics and bed sheets. “The  The rate of fabric being processed and woven main thrust for diversification modernization of in the company is around 60 lakh for State Government support to came in the last one-and-a- looms at Bhilwara is metres and 15 lakh metres per improve and grow the industry half years when the PV market 90% as compared to month, respectively. Catering to further. They want major cut went down; every weaver was the average 8% of the current market demands, while in the power costs along with looking for diversification, the country. the organization is processing some rebate on the VAT which however sizing is one of the main polyester based fabrics including  20 modern technology is presently 5% in Rajasthan, as limitations of Bhilwara. We are PV, PC and RFD (fabrics that are process houses with they have to compete with Gujarat using only those yarns that can dyed after the stitching process); capacity of 70 crore and Maharashtra where there is be used directly without sizing. they are also weaving cotton fabric metres p.a. no VAT. There is also shortage We have also started cotton bed for shirting material. of labour especially the skilled sheet manufacturing. In last few  Total turnover of textile ones which affect the quality of Operational with 86 air jet looms months I have seen a tremendous trade Rs. 17,700 crore. and 205 sun jet looms, for both the change in the culture of Bhilwara the products. “The main problem domestic and the export market, where most air jet looms have  Total export of (yarn right now is that Bhilwara doesn’t the organization is exporting its shifted from PC shirting to and fabrics) have any form of Government aid. material directly to South America, 100% cotton shirting fabric Rs. 2,530 crore. Budget is also very disappointing, Gulf and the African countries. manufacturing,” claims Lalit  Direct employment which has proved to be a major The turnover of the organization in Kumar Babel, Director. in textile industry setback for the Bhilwara the textile segment is somewhere Undoubtedly, Bhilwara has taken is approx.74,000 industry. Due to these reasons around Rs. 75 crore. a huge leap in developing as a people and indirect only, we are planning to put our prime textile hub in India, but the employment approx. five line denim project in Surat industry feels that there is need 60,000 people. instead,” concludes Jayesh.

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Raymond resumes operations at textile plant in Gujarat

Tex Find aymond which had temporarily which was served on the plant after one of Rsuspended operations at its textile its effluent discharge pipelines got ruptured, manufacturing plant in Valsad district and the waste water released in open, has of Gujarat following closure notice from been withdrawn.” Gujarat Pollution Control Board (GPCB), has The GPCB had issued notice to since resumed operations after the GPCB the company along with few other withdrew its closure notice. manufacturing units operating in the On status of notice, GPCB Member Secretary vicinity and their power connections Hardik Shah said, “I think the closure notice also disconnected.

Ramraj Cotton plans new Rs. 1 billion weaving unit

irupur based Ramraj Cotton, a producer Tof shirts, dhotis and innerwear, intends WORMS to invest one billion rupees for setting up SPINNING IN a new weaving unit in Sankagiri in Tamil Nadu during this year. The Group currently COLOUR operates five production facilities at For years silk fabric has been Erode, Tirupur, Bangalore, Madurai and an integral textile to the Coimbatore and has invested three billion industry and recently scientists rupees in these facilities so far. in Singapore have discovered According to K R Nagarajan, Founder and a way to make it even more Chairman of Ramraj Group, the new facility valuable, by infusing the dye The company looks forward to achieve an would have a capacity to produce 1,50,000 in the cocoon stage itself overall turnover of Rs. 10 billion by next resulting in vibrantly coloured metres of fabric per day. The proposed year. Shipping its goods to Singapore, luminescent . “The amount for investment would be raised from Mauritius, Dubai and Malaysia, the firm new, more environmentally internal accruals, he added. The existing earns 5% of its overall revenues from friendly method allows us capacity of the group stands at 20,000 shirts, exports. The Group is now planning to integrate colours into 1,00,000 pieces of innerwear and 2,50,000 penetration in northern and western states the very foundation of silk metres of fabric per day. over the next two years. and does away with the need for manual ,” says Dr Natalia Tansil, lead Researcher at the Institute Germany eager to partner of Materials Research with Gujarat companies 300 Textile units in and Engineering (IMRE) for Technical Textiles Erode get closure in Singapore. Achieved by notices feeding silkworms, a mulberry ermany is keen to collaborate with mixture containing fluorescent ollowing receipt of complaints dye, gives brightly coloured GGujarat in manufacturing automotive regarding emission of effluents in silk that is structurally fabrics, medical textiles, sport textiles, F water bodies, 300 textile dyeing units unaffected, but which also agro textiles, and protective textiles. Four operational in Erode, Tamil Nadu, has luminescent, or glowing, firms from the European have been served with closure notices properties. The addition of nation were in Ahmedabad recently showing the dye into the silkworm their interest in the state. The German by the district administration. The diet is for the last four days of companies such as Eurotextiles GmbH & Co. closure orders have been given to the larva stage. The resulting KG, Nextrusion GmbH, SR Webatex GmbH, 100 textile dyeing industries and 200 coloured cocoon can then and Ploucquet GmbH are interested in textile bleaching industries in Erode. be harvested and processed partnership with textile industries in Gujarat Farmers representing several using normal processes. The for technology sharing and mutual growth. associations had called on the district dye molecules are ingrained The German delegation’s visit was administration to take severe steps within the silk filaments to organized by ASSOCHAM along with WB against the polluters, particularly create permanent colour. This against the tanners and dyers who new innovation reduces cost Management Consultant and commissioned on water and dyes and the by the Federal Ministry of Economics and were discharging the untreated researchers are working with Technology (BMWi), with AHP International waste of their units in water bodies, potential industry partners to GmbH & Co. KG. ASSOCHAM indicates that mainly into the Kalingarayan canal scale up the process. Gujarat is emerging as a technical textiles and Cauvery River. hub in India.

26 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 27 Apparel Online India HOME FASHION FUTURE Devarshy Arts Injecting Art into Homes with Digital Printing… A Delhi based organization thriving on its promise to deliver quality-driven products, blended with fashion and art, Devarshy Arts International, is anything but your regular manufacturer of home furnishing products. After making its mark in the apparel and accessories segment, the company has recently extended its production base into the home products segment and just six months into the business, the company has already managed to create a distinct identity for itself through its products that offers complete ranges in digital prints…

ith the foundation volumes, Devarshy Arts has of the company witnessed tremendous growth being based on over the last year with its creativity and new range of home products. design,W Parijat Devarshy, “We were content with our Owner, Devarshy Arts business in garments, but International, initiated the as I’m constantly looking for company in 2008 with an something new to do as an intention to make art a part of artist, I just thought of putting people’s daily lives, offering a painting on a bed sheet, products with digital prints and then reproduced a few that recreate work of artist pieces that went on to be really from around the world. While, appreciated by our buyers initially the manufacturing and and the rest as they say is design studio of the company history,” muses Parijat. With were both located in Delhi, the demand of their digital but with labour cost shooting printed bed sheets taking up, the manufacturing has off, the company decided to since been shifted to Gujarat, extend the concept on to other where Parijat’s partner Harish products as well. The home Kapadia handles the factory. furnishing product portfolio The design studio in Delhi is the of the company now includes nerve centre from where work is collections in curtains, cushion coordinated with designers who, covers, bed covers, bed sheets, sitting in their homes around duvet covers, comforters, and the world, work on themes complete bed sheet sets and Parijat Devarshy, Owner, Devarshy Arts International provided to them and are paid quilts. “As cushion covers on the basis of designs created are the smallest price item, Working with the most and approved. Working with they sell the most and are the advanced technology the most advanced technology fastest moving products in the to conceptualize and to conceptualize and produce market,” shares Parijat. digital prints on textile bases, produce digital prints on textile Claiming to be the first the company constantly works company that has brought bases, we constantly work on on creating and serving new, the art of digital printing creating and serving new, different different and contemporary in home textiles, Parijat and contemporary pieces for our pieces for its clients in the US, maintains, “Being the first EU and . clients in the US, EU and Australia.� one to introduce a concept, Working mainly with big chain it really becomes a challenge stores and importers with mass sometimes to convince your

28 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 HOME FASHION FUTURE

�I agree that China is cheaper for digital printed products, but they are not a competition to us as our designs aesthetics are poles apart, while they are still manufacturing bases with cartoon characters and zebras, we work on art forms, classic paintings like that of Raja Ravi Varma, so there is neither a comparison, nor competition for us from China,� says Parijat.

clients and capture a market as production is faster and not as per their requirements, for However, this does not mean buyers are not familiar with the very labour-intensive; also example a different border, a that ‘cost of production’ is not products and how customers it gives the same liberty of change in colour and other such important. “We also work on will react to the same, but it manufacturing small quantities variations as per their wish. our costs, and as buyers prefer has also provided me with the like digital prints. “So we Also they come back to us as it polyester bases over pure silks ‘first mover’ advantage as it are working on a business is our motto not to use a design and cottons these days, it works eliminates comparisons and model that produces small again for another buyer, the well for us also as the printing competition in the market.” The quantities and at good prices,” feeling of holding on to a unique cost on polyester is less than home products of the company claims Parijat. product that no one else has is that on pure cotton bases. Since are not available at the brick- Even as the recession has really appreciated by them,” our printing costs are lower and n-mortar stores in India yet, compelled buyers to look out reasons Parijat. the fabric costs are also lower, but Parijat shared that they for cheaper options, Parijat Parijat denies competition from so ultimately the final product is are in talks with some agents maintained it has not affected China as a cheaper base for also reasonable,” argues Parijat. to introduce them to the Indian his business that much, as manufacturing digital prints. Working with around ten market also. buyers are still on the watch out “I agree that China is cheaper printing machines and 100 Even as India is known for quality products. “It is true for digital printed products, sewing machines at present, worldwide for its value added that the price of our products but they are not a competition the company is manufacturing products in embroidery and is a little higher compared to to us as our designs aesthetics more than 20,000 metres of other embellishments, the the screen and rotary print are poles apart, while they fabric per month. Looking out company wants to maintain its products, but the effect and are still manufacturing bases for a very positive year ahead, niche in digital prints. “Digital quality that digital prints with cartoon characters and Parijat is geared for some new printing is the future of design possess can’t be compared to zebras, we work on art forms, ventures. “We are now planning and is visible everywhere. We either one of them. Also, digital classic paintings like that of to make furniture with digital are just trying to introduce printing gives us the liberty Raja Ravi Varma, so there printed fabric; so the years good designs into the digital of customizing designs and is neither a comparison, nor 2013 and 2014, would be huge printing format,” says Parijat. quantities as per our clients’ competition for us from China. for Devarshy Arts. We are However, moving as per needs, which buyers really In fact, I am happy to boast expecting growth by manifolds the market demands, the look forward to, as they get a about the fact that buyers are and I would like to increase company is now planning to product no one else has. They willing to pay us ten times my capacities to match my add computer embroideries are free to ask the designers to more for our products,” says a creativity in the coming times,” to their portfolio as well. The manipulate the designs a little delighted Parijat. concludes Parijat.

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 29 30 Apparel Online India 31 Apparel Online India 32 Apparel Online India 33 Apparel Online India fashionbusiness

Who said Recession was all about Losses… The Downturn Inspires Many Trends for A Growing Business! While the world economy was full of depressing news emerging out of the severe impacts of recession, there were also a set of people who were trying to create a viable difference in boosting up the low spirits of the masses. As most of the big brands the world over reported a loss in sales, a series of concepts and campaigns managed to turn a smile into healthy business, the craze of which cannot go unnoticed, as most of them have today turned into raging trends. And even though the recession became a reason for major losses in the industry, looking at the other side of the coin, Team FASHION FORWARD TRENDS believes that ‘recession’ in itself is also a trend, a macro theme for us to look at and dig our inspirations out…

Since then the moustache has transcended into apparel, accessories and even home décor, with brands like Vero Moda, Zara, H&M, Topshop, sporting the popular ‘stache print on T-shirts, leggings, dresses and cardigans. Selling to the masses are also E-commerce websites like Etsy. com and Modcloth.com which pinned on the cheery print, with majority of their merchandise showcasing it. We had it on shoes, bags, cushions, as neckpieces, rings and as graphics, but what is PETA’s ‘Grow your own fur campaign’ in 2010 encouraged to sport a ’stache to make a statement against the cruel fur industry equally worth noticing is the fact that the trend is still making its rounds becoming an item of mass fashion, the reach of which has he wise ones in the 18th a statement against the cruel not only remained international century must have had fur industry. but also has become domestic a moment of insight, Bringing a quirky smile from a with young designers promoting when they stated that T thoughtful campaign then when the concept with brands ‘The moustache maketh the people had stopped buying like ‘Mooch’. man’. And today when most men unnecessary fashion, the trend Why only the moustache, the have shun the moustache, the reappeared with the iconic recession also became the sole handlebar moustaches are back Movemeber movement in 2011, reason for the legendary ‘keep in style both for guys and girls a moustache growing charity calm’ poster to come back from alike… but is another avatar its archived times of the first started with PETA’s ‘Grow your event held during November world recession, and hit it again own fur campaign’ in 2010 which to create global awareness for men’s health issues. Followed with the masses, which was featured a T-shirt as well as free spotted on T-shirts, hoardings, by its partnership with TOMS moustache stickers and leaflets bill boards, messages, and shoes, released like a fashionable that teenagers used to spread reinvented with personalized item was the first embroidered the message that “unlike facial tag lines like ‘Keep calm and be hair, real fur is ripped from the moustache on the brands happy’, ‘Keep calm and smile’, bodies of still-breathing animals limited-edition slip-on cast in and endless variations by who feel pain and fear, just as finely woven twill, which not only thoughtful minds, which helped we do,” in turn also encouraged caught the eye of many men, but boost the sales of merchandise them to sport a ’stache to make also a lot of bold fashionistas. like never before.

34 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 The legendary ‘keep calm’ poster hit it again with the masses, spotted on T-shirts, hoardings, billboards

Becoming the slogan of 2012 but a mindset making it a staple was also ‘YOLO’ – a highly item of choice. popularized acronym, short for The sales and the demand of ‘You Only Live Once’, which is crafty products is yet another suddenly everywhere on shirts, outcome of recession, where hats, bumper stickers and all businesses are looking at over social media. Dated back improving their cultural crafts to the 1800s while the concept and promoting them as authentic was first published in The techniques for the outside world. Lady’s Magazine and Museum The very reason that tribal today urging readers to behave is moving beyond Africa and cautiously to avoid contracting touching the boundaries of south a deadly disease, the slogan American tribes is to support has reappeared in history time their dying village crafts which and again with a minister in include trends like Navaho prints Scotland in 1858, using YOLO and patterns, Peruvian colours to encourage listeners to be and weaves and also the skilled morally upright, and said, “We textile techniques coming from cannot live always: We can only Mexico. The Indian subcontinent live once”, followed in the 1900’s and finally in 2004 like YOLO too remains to be in focus owing Clothing Line, created by Adam to its craft cluster bagging more from season three of The and more orders for this strong Average Joe, who stated at his tie and dye and techniques. launch, “When I created the Last but not the least, kick word it was meant as inspiration starting another season will to live life to the fullest.” also be a whole new look, a Taking the concept forward micro trend of ‘retro’, soon to be once again in downturned taken over by the fashion world times, looking for an escape and globally. Backed by recession, a happier and carefree way of the trend has found a place living life, the youth has taken in people’s heart, essentially up the spirit of the logo as a because of the nostalgic vibe it reflection of their lifestyle, and brought with it. Serving as an not let it be normal clothes, but ideal antidote for a generation, they are ready to spend on a which is constantly seeking YOLO item that they relate to. individuality and inspiration, the Identifying this trend, brands most visible examples of retro like Walgreens and Macy’s had coming back in fashion has been YOLO merchandise campaigns rise in sales of thrift stores and which lead to a rise in their second-hand shopping outlets sales while the other regular and also the PINUP style, as it is items were slowly moving out at called, hasn’t been out of trend their own pace. Today, the YOLO for almost about two years now, merchandise is a message in its with designers conceiving their own, that reflects not a trend entire collection around the look.

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 35 fashionresource

Lime Ricki ropes in Parker Barker for a swimsuits collection Footwear collaborations ayley Parker-Barker collection is a spiffy assortment on the rise Hhas teamed up with of one-piece suits and flattering, ecently, a lot of designers Swim brand Lime Ricki, on a cinched at the waist, full-bodied Rand models have lent capsule collection of demure tankinis, primarily targeted their creative insights for yet sexy swimsuits. In line at elegant grown-up women. capsule footwear collections. with Lime Ricki’s vintage and Priced from US $ 30-US $ 75, In one of the most thrilling covered up aesthetics, the the exclusive Parker Barker collaborations, legendary designer deftly adapted to the for Lime Ricki collection is designer Karl Lagerfeld carefree poolside glamour available for a limited time at has unveiled designs of his of the 60s Hollywood. The limericki.com. four-piece collection for footwear brand Mellissa. The designer has blended his Macy’s to bring 50’s Glamour with “The Marilyn European design sensibility Monroe collection” with the colourful aesthetics of Brazil for the footwear acy’s all geared to dress brand, renowned for its young women in Marilyn M plastic jelly shoes. In another Monroe’s flirty and feminine development, models Anja style. Catering to the fashion Rubika and Natalia Vodianova forward girl, “The Marilyn have devised a capsule Monroe collection” will be footwear line for Giuseppe modelled around the diva’s Zaotti and Russian retailer hourglass silhouettes and Centro, respectively. While classic glamour. The line takes Rubik’s designed a glam-punk 3-DIMENSIONAL inspiration from Monroe’s 29-US $ 89, the line ranges from collection of five styles, priced FLOWERS timeless looks and translates it sundresses and halter dresses between ¤ 550 (£ 480) and into perky patterns, girly pastel- that cinch at the waist to cropped ¤ 1,400 (£ 1,200), Vodianova’s Adding life to the flora, the hued shorts and figure hugging pants, tie-front tops, collection of classic heels and 3-dimensional flower trend dresses in black and bold red, pink denim, cut-off pumps will retail at US $ 60 at is finally up and running. for the modern day fashionista. T-shirts and accessories for 16-22 Net-A-Porter. What started off as just To be retailed between US $ year old women. prints has now taken leaps, being projected in new dimensions. Couturiers River Island replays 90s pop with Rihanna'S DARING SPIRIT have featured with intricate corsages neatly tailored to fter debuting at the London “Rihanna for River Island”, tie & dyed crop tops, leather luxe fabrics. Interpreted in AFashion Week’s F/W 13, co-designed by Adam Selman, is sleeved varsity jackets and jersey countless possibilities, from Rihanna’s much awaited intended at hip, urban girls, with maxi dresses in floral prints and tiny to exaggerated, snubbed collection for River Island a full figure and a daring spirit. bold primary colours. Key denim to exuberant, they are in has finally hit the stores. The With a strong 90’s character, the looks include denim separates like all shapes and sizes, each collection is reminiscent of the collections translates the pop star’s micro denim bib tops, tie-waist deciphering it in their own style icon’s personal sensual iconic looks into cholo-buttoned skirts and slouchy layered pants in way, placed on a garment in style on stage and red carpets. blouses, knot Front Camisole and stonewashed accents. interesting ways, either as all over or just as a surface enhancement detail along COLOUR STORY A/W 2013-14 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS the hemline, sleeves or the collars. First spotted on the runways in the collection of Alexander McQueen, Dior, Chanel, Ellie Saab and Blugirl they featured only on floor sweeping gowns, now the interesting detail is scattering itself into the masses, being seen here and there on streets, transformed into more ready-to-wear merchandise such as bags, shoes, dresses and even cardigans.

36 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 37 Apparel Online India INDUSTRYWIRE

Noida Bangalore BP Impex upgrades facility Tamcraft India planning for venture capital with new CAD installation amcraft India, Bangalore, companies at top level management, Tan entrepreneurial initiative so when the buyers asked me to join mall and medium level exporters of experienced professionals of the hands as they were very comfortable Sare increasingly moving towards garment industry has been growing doing business with me, Tamcraft upgradation to be more efficient as also consistently over the last few years. was born. Initially we started with provide better quality. Noida based, BP Exporting kidswear to UK from two brands of UK and now we have Impex, which is doing exports worth Rs. a 110 machines four brands in our 10 crore in high-end ladies wear to manufacturing client profile. Over buyers in the UK, Australia and facility, Suresh the last six month Brazil has gone for upgradation. Adwaine, MD of the we have already It has recently installed CAD company is looking added 70 machines system of Tukatech and also for venture capital and now in next six few advance machines like support to sustain month we will install blind stitch, edge cutter and large-scale expansion 200 more. Buyers overlock with gather, to name in multi directions in prefer us because we a few. “We are going slow and the coming years, the produce small orders steady in upgradation, and our initial expansion is in compliant manner,” initial investment is not more than Rs. 10 for an additional 200 says Suresh. lakh. If it gives us good results, we will stitching machines. The company add more such machines,” informs Dinesh While the new unit offers best working Jain, Director. Dinesh is happy with his will be built on the conditions and limited buyers and doing satisfactory outskirts of Bangalore, the plan is various welfare schemes for business in his unit of 125 machines. The to invest in backward and forward its workers like education for company is SEDEX certified and has integration in the next five years. their children and also provides its yarn dyed fabric manufacturing unit “I am in this industry for over 24 Mediclaim to the workers, which has in Salem. years and have worked with many helped to reduce worker turnover. Tirupur Hi-style Texports looking to invest in a Noida process house Wrecker Jeans & Casuals to install 250 more machines oming out of bad phase, which tied Cdown the industry for nearly three mong the few categories that demand has put a little pressure on years, Tirupur exporters are now on an Aremained stable even during our production facility so we are expansion path. 12 years old, Hi-style the slowdown denim earned the going for expansion. We have almost Texports is planning to invest Rs. 10 reputation of an evergreen fashion 300 stitching machines and will add crore in setting up a processing house product, and jeans manufacturers 250 more in a new unit,” informs Jain. have benefited from the continuous this year. It has also planned to install Though the plans are still in the demand with some on the expansion digital printers as now it outsources nascent stage, and it will take some path. One such exporter that has digital printing requirements. R. time to finalize land/ been in the industry Nallasamy, Director shared factory, the company for over four decades with Apparel Online, “We is already projecting is Wrecker Jeans & have good orders from the US 30 per cent growth Casuals (WJCPL) and Europe and are hopeful post-expansion. Doing for more orders in the coming of Noida, and R P business of Rs. 15 months, but we are facing Jain, Chairman of crore per year, the problems on fabric delivery, so as the company is very company exports a proactive solution, we are going enthusiastic about 70 per cent of its to start our own process house. Same as the expansion. “Apart production and its in value addition, since digital prints are from our regular major product focus in demand it has motivated us to install buyers in Spain, is kids’ jeans and the printers in-house.” The company which also happens casuals. Earlier the manufacturing ladies, men’s and kidswear to be our biggest has already acquired 5 acres of land for market, we have company was into its process house. It works with Crocodile recently reconnected women jeans and (Singapore), White Sierra, Oved Apparels with some old buyers from UK, it was in the year 2000 that they in US, Champion and Famous in Europe. and Germany who were not in touch diversified into kids’ category with from the last few years. This added major success.

38 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 39 Apparel Online India indiacanvas

GTE'2013 Hunting Ground for Domestic Garment Manufacturers The visitation profile of the recently concluded GTE ’13 in a way indicates the direction that the garment manufacturing industry is taking. Though over the last few years the event has been seeing increased visitation from domestic hubs in and around Delhi, this year the dominance of manufacturers with very small setups targeting the domestic market was undisputed. The technology providers too have accepted that the domestic players are the future growth segment and many are re-strategizing to service this segment, which has needs that are very different from those of the export manufacturing units.

aving emerged as Though the fair did see visitation today are the manufacturers a major meeting from exporters, the faces were in the domestic market and all ground for technology mostly of those who have been the technology providers fully Hproviders and regular visitors year after year, understand the importance of the garment manufacturing with very few new faces seen. targeting this segment. “We industry, the annual GTE is also Sandeep Gupta, Gupta Exim; would be foolish to ignore this a barometer of the health of the Shreyaskar Chaudhary, Pratibha highly potential market, but industry with indications coming Syntex; Rajeev Kapoor, Affordable we also understand that the as to whether companies are Exports; Naresh Bhandari, interventions required to capture looking to invest and if yes where Bhandari Hosiery; teams from this market are going to be very is the focus. This year, most Madura Clothing, Mahajan different from the approach we of the exhibitors that the Overseas, Tynor Orthotics, have for targeting the players garment manufacturing industry Gokaldas Exporters, Impulse and working in the export market,” has finally started to look up and Interconti, besides a number of says GV Aras, Director, A.T.E. the overall vibes were positive. industry consultants were seen Enterprises. Among the most For exporters, the focus for during the three days’ fair. But important is creating awareness investment is on automation, the companies that swarmed the of better technology within the both to reduce requirement of venue were domestic players domestic players; and second, it skilled labour and to improve from Kanpur, Indore, Surat, is to have on the platter machines operational efficiencies, while Ahmedabad, Kolkata, besides that will appeal to these players for domestic players, the focus Delhi’s Gandhi Nagar, Tank road who have just recently started to is on upgrading their very basic and other domestic hubs. upgrade technology. machines with more effective No wonder, a growth area for A few of the companies came technology for better quality. most technology providers with entry level machines to

Sharad M. Sharma, Sales Manager, ICC International Agencies with Victor Xu of Gemsy's International Sandeep Mehta, Sales & Marketing Manager for India at Kornit Digital Dhaval Dadia, Director, DCC interacting with clients Trade Department

40 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 indiacanvas

with many putting up ‘sold’ stickers the machine running,” says on many of their products. Other M. L. Jain, Gauge Sewing exhibitors who were able to Machines and Spares. close deals at the fair were those The big technology suppliers like companies that had entry to mid IIGM, HCA, Mehala, EH Turel & range of technology, which were in Co and A.T.E. were present with demand by the domestic players. their array of brands representing Exhibitors who were showcasing almost every aspect of garment high-end technology claimed they manufacturing from cutting had many visitors seeking to to finishing. Besides receiving understand the usefulness of the many industry professionals and technology and many enquiries to businessmen, the companies be followed up later were generated; also spent a good amount of time very few talked about closing any interacting with students. “What deals during the fair. “I would say was also very fulfilling for us was the fair was a success for us as the large number of students a lot of people showed positive who visited our stall, we were response towards our technologies very happy to receive them and Ricky Sahni, Managing Director, GTE and solutions, with an overall explain the technology. After all inclination towards automation,” they are the future and three-four capitalize on the trend like MS said John McCall, Regional Sales years down the line, they will Orange, Jaysynth and IMA. While Director, South West Asia, Gerber be the torch bearers of various MS Orange had digital printers for Technologies. The way business companies making decisions on starters, IMA focused on cutting moved for Tukatech is a reflection what technology to be investing solutions for small units. “It is of what most of the exhibitors saw, in,” said Ashim Das, CEO, a misconception that automatic wherein the company claims to Mehala Machines. cutters are viable only in large have sold 25 of their basic manual Satisfied with the way the event has setups where the production spreaders and booked enquiries shaped up, the organizers claim volumes are huge. The machine we for another 50, only one CAD/CAM that the fair attracted good business have displayed is comparatively was sold, that too to an exporter in and they have received positive cheaper than a full-fledged high ply Noida, who was already negotiating feedback from most exhibitors. “We cutter, and can still give substantial on the product. are already charged up for next amount of production,” said P. Guna Due to this slowdown, buyers are year’s event and want to thank our Sekaran, CEO, IMA. refraining themselves in investing exhibitors in having confidence Also in focus, for both the export in fully automated machines but in our ability to attract visitation and domestic manufacturers, was are always looking for upgrading even when market sentiments are value adding technology as fashion their existing machines by adding not at their best. This year the is at the core of most companies. right kind of attachments and fair was a major draw for local Many of the booths that had on folders in order to keep up with the manufacturers and with all the display technology for printing, fast moving fashion. “Though the technology providers now looking in engraving, embroidery, and bead industry is facing a tough time from this direction for growth our fair has & sequin attachment were kept the past two years, spare parts and provided the platform for synergy busy throughout the day. These attachments never go out of demand in future growth,” concludes Ricky companies also reported business because this is one thing that keeps Sahni, MD, GTE.

K B Prasad, Business Head (Garments Division), A.T.E. Enterprises with his principle Dashan of Taisang Enterprise Anil Anand, Managing Director, HCA Nikhil Tandon, MD, RST

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 41 exportstatistics

TRADE SNIPS Budget Brings Cheers to the India’s Garment Export on the Textile Chain; Industry Hopeful Increase since January 2013 of Growth this Year Positive growth in exports for the two consecutive months To the relief of many industry watchers the Union Budget this year did throw up of January and February 2013 is a positive sign that the some goodies for the Textile & Garment Industry. Though the interventions are economy is on an upward not as strong as they could have been but the tone of the proposals are positive growth path. According to Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman of sending a strong message that the Government is finally looking at the industry AEPC, to keep the momentum for support. The important announcements that could have a positive impact on going it is important that the industry are as below: Government keeps availability of credit to industry at lower rate. “Separate chapter for exports can be game changers For Domestic Retailers Rs. 100 crores or more in plant • Setting aside of Rs. 5000 in this regard. The recent and machinery from April 2013 crores for helping SME sector increase in cotton and yarn • Abolition of 12 per cent excise to March 2015 will be entitled through SIDBI. prices have put additional duty on branded readymade to deduct an investment burden on the garment sector garments imposed in the Union Overall Growth therefore, I have requested Budget last year – Became allowance of 15 per cent of the • The announcement of Government to allow duty free essential in the total investment. Garment import of yarn, as they have vocational courses offered by wake of industry witnessing industry is not happy as allowed for import of cotton investments of Rs. 100 the institute affiliated to the for the yarn manufacturers,” almost zero per cent growth crores are too high for most State Council of Vocational says Sakthivel. in 2011-2013. garment exporters. AEPC Training and Testing Activities • Budget proposes to impose He added, “I further request has requested that in order would be in the negative list 12 per cent Countervailing Government for the exemption to encourage garment export for the service tax. AEPC is from transaction tax and fix Duty (CVD) plus Education sector, this limit (of Rs. 100 confident that the courses the export credit for RMG to Cess (3 per cent of CVD) on crores) should be brought offered by Apparel Training be 7%, in order to remain garment exports to India from competitive. Our two major down to Rs. 10 crores for and Design Centres would Bangladesh. This will provide exports destinations have still RMG (readymade garments) fall under this category. buffer to domestic industry not recovered. India’s apparel export sector. This will and also encourage foreign • Imposition of ‘zero excise duty exports to EU and USA has boost employment in a large recorded a shortfall by 14% brands to source locally. route’ for cotton and manmade numbers. and 2%, respectively. However, sector (spun yarn) at the yarn, exports to non-traditional For Manufacturing • Reduction in customs duty on fabric and garment stage. markets have risen in year • Budget 2013-14 has proposed the imported textile machinery This is essential till GST 2012, due to the supportive that a company investing and parts from 7.5% to 5%. is introduced to maintain a policy announced in FTP by Union Commerce, Industry & Textile Minister Anand Sharma.” TOTAL US GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-DEC. 2012 Type of Apparel Jan-Dec. 2009 Jan-Dec. 2010 Jan-Dec. 2011 Jan-Dec. 2012 % Change FDI in Indian Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value textile sector Cotton 12,608.78 38,983.99 14340.15 43328.752 12647.64 44702.285 12,014.38 41,861.96 -5.01 -6.35 to grow 5-7%, Wool 232.56 3,077.43 271.221 3495.885 261.382 3857.277 228.24 3,718.56 -12.68 -3.60 predict experts Several international retail MMF 8,173.09 19,711.23 9821.299 23287.349 10632.49 27644.75 11,129.77 29,892.91 4.68 8.13 brands are planning to invest Silk & Veg 302.80 1,332.05 311.313 1286.04 322.684 1455.169 309.55 1,337.20 -4.07 -8.11 in Indian textile sector as Total 21317.22 63104.70 24743.98 71398.03 23864.20 77659.48 23681.93 76810.63 -0.76 -1.09 the Central Government has Qty & value in mn M2 & US $ announced many incentives, including tax exemptions, TOTAL APPAREL EXPORTS TO THE US BY INDIA AND ITS COMPETITORS — JAN.-DEC. 2012 to the textile and garment industry in the Union Budget Type of Apparel Jan-Dec. 2009 Jan-Dec. 2010 Jan-Dec. 2011 Jan-Dec. 2012 % Change 2013-14. According to the textile industry experts, there Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value will be 5-7% increase in India 907.21 2,846.12 971.113 3111.765 899.513 3316.037 834.97 3,041.16 -7.18 -8.29 Foreign Direct Investment Bangladesh 1,383.83 3,409.78 1606.063 3930.358 1539.527 4509.864 1,521.92 4,469.98 -1.14 -0.88 (FDI) with global brands such as Walmart, Hennes and China 8,623.27 23,503.01 10386.78 27974.604 9738.171 29392.238 9,881.90 29,059.64 1.48 -1.13 Mauritz Group (H&M), IKEA Pakistan 638.08 1,305.76 697.922 1492.502 625.846 1654.843 581.65 1,471.83 -7.06 -11.06 and Tesco planning to invest in Indian retail segment post- Sri Lanka 315.12 1,210.11 317.224 1223.656 330.607 1399.572 337.96 1,476.89 2.22 5.52 Union Budget. Vietnam 1,612.18 5,068.33 1910.503 5876.916 1998.379 6644.078 2,145.04 7,101.13 7.34 6.88 Qty & value in mn M2 & US $

42 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 43 Apparel Online India exportstatistics

level playing field across the and also the pollution issue fast growing states in textile Canada Apparel Imports: value chain. which are the major threats for manufacturing activities, Jan.-Dec. 2012 • The allocation of Rs.1000 the survival of these sectors. and expansion of Tuticorin India’s Exports to crores for National Skill • Reintroduction of generation port capacity by 42 million Canada in 2012 Development Corporation based incentives for the wind tonnes would greatly help the Down (-) 13.58% (NSDC) for skill upgradation energy projects and allocating textile industry in Tamil Nadu would enable the industry to Rs. 800 crores to the Ministry to improve its business and improve its competitiveness. of Non-Renewable Energy exports substantially. A lot of hope is being pinned which would greatly help on the FTA negotiations in Textile Industry Bangladesh stand on new the states having wind mills, progress with Canada, and Countervailing Duty • Continuation of Technology the industry is following particularly Tamil Nadu Upgradation Fund Scheme Leading newspapers in very closely the discussions which accounts for more going on between the two (TUFS) and Scheme for than 45% of the wind Bangladesh claim that the countries. If the agreement Integrated Textile Parks generation capacity to improve Indian High Commission in comes through, the industry (SITP) to the 12th Five Year their competitiveness on Dhaka has assured the country will straight away enjoy duty Plan period – allocation of power front. that no new Countervailing Duty benefit of 18%, certainly a Rs. 2400 crores for the (CVD) has been imposed in the • Reduction of interest burden big advantage…. Financial Year 2013-14 for the Indian Union Budget 2013- for working capital and term TUF Scheme. 14 on Ready Made Garment  In 2012, Canada saw value loans to a concessional rate of imports fall by (-) 2.02%; (RMG) imports into India from • The creation of apparel parks of 6 per cent for the handloom while knitted garments Bangladesh and the CVD of within SITP and Rs. 10 crore sector. AEPC argues that registered a decline of allocations – Will go a long 12.36 per cent which existed (-) 3.17%, the import of if agriculture credit is way in increasing export of on RMG imports in 2012-13 woven garments decreased available at 4% to farmers value-added textile chain. continues without any change. marginally by (-) 0.81%. and for handlooms and the  Exports from India saw a • The various stakeholders of term loan is available at 6%, India had granted duty- decline of (-) 13.58% in the industry had proposed then why India’s garment free, quota-free access to 46 value. While the knitted several changes in the scheme export which constitutes textile tariff lines of greatest segment saw a major including a major thrust for nearly 65% to 70% of cotton sensitivity to Bangladesh which downfall of (-) 25.63%, the the power loom sector and and cotton blend garments, was notified on September 6, woven category saw less textile processing which are attract interest of around 9% 2011. Subsequently, with effect sharp decline of (-) 2.37%. the weakest links in the entire to 11%. It is suggested that from November 9, 2011, India The country is ranked at textile value chain. Additional export credit may be given granted duty-free, quota-free eighth position in imports by incentive for apparel units and access to all items except Canada in both categories. to RMG exporters at flat rate a new scheme with an outlay of 7%, as given in the past. tobacco and alcohol and their  With duty advantage, of Rs. 500 crores for the textile products to SAARC LDCs, Bangladesh has seen some For Infrastructural Support including Bangladesh. Since the growth in the market, processing development with registering an increase in its benefits of up to Rs. 50 crores • Announcement of two new notifications provide ‘national exports to Canada in 2012. per park would address the major ports in West Bengal treatment’ to exports from The country registered technology obsolescence issue and Andhra Pradesh, the Bangladesh to India. increase of 4.07% in value of exports. While the knitted garments were down ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN APPAREL IMPORTS BY US: JAN.-DEC. 2012 marginally by (-) 0.45%, the woven categories, registered Exports to USA an increase of 8.30%. Total Imports by USA APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam  China continues to register decline in the Canadian Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value market with exports to the Babies Wear -6.97 -8.86 -7.92 -10.24 -8.40 -7.98 -5.81 -4.46 4.74 2.07 country in 2012 down by Foundation Garments 2.86 5.59 7.53 9.47 34.50 43.12 0.26 2.73 22.83 36.82 (-) 8.73% in value. The country could not register Jackets & Blazers -8.81 -8.15 -10.07 -12.61 3.87 -9.37 -5.62 -6.92 -3.09 2.51 gains in either the knitted Ladies Blouses 9.76 5.18 12.55 5.69 0.04 0.33 -17.95 -11.77 49.17 35.44 or the woven category with Ladies Dresses 4.98 6.56 6.91 4.55 -10.34 -2.33 -9.71 -14.51 19.22 29.85 declines of (-) 8.23% and (-) 9.22%, respectively. Ladies Skirts 16.54 8.71 19.85 4.84 -10.98 -7.22 37.78 24.87 24.43 16.56  Vietnam was among the few Legwear -0.86 3.74 11.05 17.92 9.12 7.33 — — -23.63 -14.04 countries which registered Men's Shirts -4.31 -3.53 -7.32 -8.16 -4.48 -16.55 0.67 -1.01 -12.10 -6.54 noteworthy growth in this period and value of exports Nightwear -1.79 -6.47 -3.06 -6.92 27.18 10.83 31.96 16.90 -0.53 -7.02 to Canada saw increase Suits / Ensembles -12.28 5.62 -23.63 -9.22 0.11 29.12 -22.03 -5.10 -1.37 -6.88 of 13.70%. The increase Sweaters -3.28 -7.49 -1.54 -7.02 16.43 -8.35 -22.06 -26.65 25.28 1.80 was registered in both the knitted and woven segment Trousers -1.17 1.08 4.80 1.78 -16.94 -8.52 -9.59 0.13 10.05 9.11 of 10.69% and 16.64%, T-Shirts -0.91 -3.46 5.60 -1.38 -14.15 -15.67 4.17 -2.82 9.61 4.81 respectively. Undergarments -1.24 1.76 9.27 7.73 -22.13 -21.92 24.75 22.60 — 14.69

44 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 45 Apparel Online India resourcecentre

ighlighting the be saved. The company is now importance of putting ‘colour recipes’ on the colour in brand cloud for its clients so that Hidentification, Stalam vendors using the colour on reasserted that as a colour the shop floor do not struggle solutions company it was to get the right shade. “Since important to take complete everyone visualizes colour in a control of the colour chain different way, manual matching Realizing that speed to market is the underlining success from forecasting to actually tends to be off tune and only mantra for the fashion industry, Pantone has introduced translating the same on the many sample exchanges later, many IT-enabled concepts so that time spent on approvals can material whether it is textile the right colour is achieved, be saved. The company is now putting ‘colour recipes’ on the or packaging surface. “We we want to reduce the time, cloud for its clients so that vendors using the colour on the always believe in innovation money and energy that goes shop floor do not struggle to get the right shade. and wanted to give the industry into this process,” says Stalam. “X-Rite Pantone” Eyes India for Growth; Looking to Position itself as Complete Colour Solution Provider

a very new innovative colour Besides this the company A name synonymous with colours, matching cabinet with optical also introduced I-phone brightness assessment applications to access Pantone Pantone has revolutionized the way capability without physical colour library and ‘capsure’, colour is projected and communicated. movement of samples, to help a device for on ground colour The company today is geared for major the customers a superior way identification, which is doing to visually evaluate the colours wonders in the home furnishing growth as its new owners Danaher of samples for production and the cosmetics segment, Corporation, which acquired X-Rite Inc. readiness, thus helping to bring being used to match skin in May 2012, is determined to carve products to market quicker and tones with different hues reducing waste,” says Stalam. in cosmetics. out major markets in the emerging The company thus introduced Working to create a seamless economies with special emphasis on late last year the SpectraLight colour chain, Pantone is India. Over the last 18 months, the India QC, a light booth to provide servicing its clients through a cost-effective way for operations have been strengthened the Pantone Custom Color companies to evaluate how the Services that provides custom with a stronger team and more focused colours of products look when colour standards for corporate agenda to achieve growth of at least they are placed under the same managers and art directors in illumination as when they are 20% year on year. Vic Stalam, Sr. VP fashion, home, contract design, displayed in the retail outlet paint, beauty, automotive, – Global Sales and Marketing, X-Rite, or used – illumination that is sports, pharmaceutical and was recently in India to review the often specified by customers in fact any industry requiring operations and meet the industry. In to ensure the same controlled colour accuracy. The service conditions are used within an informal interaction with Team also provides products to their supply chains. specify corporate identity, Apparel Online, Stalam and Vishwa Realizing that speed to market product colour and packaging Shukla, VP, Sales & Marketing – South is the underlining success standards, including colour Asia shared growth plans for the newly mantra for the fashion industry, standards showing one or more Pantone has introduced many Pantone colours or custom revamped operations… IT-enabled concepts so that colours on paper, cotton or time spent on approvals can custom substrates, as well as

46 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 Vishwa Shukla, VP, Sales & Marketing – South Asia and Vic Stalam, Sr. VP – Global Sales and Marketing, X-Rite are very confident of growth in the Indian market the corresponding CMYK, HTML Leading the South Asia office and RGB values. from the front, Vishwa Shukla The trend forecast and colour is very confident that India is services at Pantone is backed ready to open up as a huge by the Pantone Color Institute, a market for Pantone. “We are colour research and information investing in the future and centre that shares its colour want to be a part of the fashion expertise with professionals in culture of this country. While a variety of industries including exporters working for the fashion, commercial/industrial, international markets know contract and interior design, the importance of using our graphic arts, advertising, colour codes, much education film and education. “Through is still needed to create the the Pantone Color Institute, same awareness for the Indian we continuously study how domestic market. Yet, we are colour influences human ready with our team and tools thought processes, emotions as FDI opens the market for and physical reactions, which more localized production in also forms the basis of our the fashion space, and we are trend forecast and ‘colour looking at around 20% growth of the season’ predictions,” annually over the next few says Stalam. years,” he concludes.

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Fashionite, reaching out to the world of fashion with high-end products… The success of a company is often determined by the passion with which it is managed, and the same is quite evident when talking to the couple, Harsimar Chawla, Director and Ramnik Chawla, Executive Vice-President, working together as the heart and brain of their organization, Fashionite. While the world is reeling under recessionary pressure, Fashionite is busy exploring new options and catering to clients that have been the backbone of the company with innovative products.

stablished in 1985 been in the business for 11 years European buyers these days,” by Ramnik’s father, now, and my role in the company reasons Ramnik. has been providing design input Pritpal Singh Chawla The company, known for its quality and also coordinating with to export fashion products, time commitment and designers to cater to our clients accessories in bulk quantities, responsive service, gives a huge all over the world. This has been Fashionite today is working share of its success to its buyers. a beautiful journey for me and I with the luxury segment with “We have always been extremely can’t imagine myself anywhere a product range that includes fortunate with our buyers, and else now,” says a delighted evening wear, embellished as they are keen to work with us, Harsimar. garments, stoles, scarves and they have helped us understand According to Ramnik, recession and know the new requirements has really changed the way of their markets, providing us with business is done, from where a better understanding of what the products are made to whom will work and where to take our they are delivered too, giving an design direction,” shares Harsimar. opportunity to grow and expand. Adding to the same, an elated “People are scared to invest Ramnik says, “Their trust in us has in new creations during these supported our journey from mass uncertain times, but those like us producers to niche manufacturers who bank upon innovations, the for the luxury market. Sometimes, results have been fruitful,” shares when the product is very high Ramnik. Catering to buyers all priced, I work with only complete over the world now, the company payment in advance and they are initially started with Europe as fine about it, because they have their forte. “With recession hitting seen our product and services.” Europe in a big way, we started Working with the luxury market, looking at various other markets, order sizes for the company varies obviously it’s not easy as each anywhere from 100 to 2000 pieces country has its own requirements per style, with FOBs ranging and preferences as per spending from US $ 20 to US $ 200. All raw power of its people, design materials are locally procured to sensibilities, climatic conditions, monitor quality, except silk, which body size and shapes, etc., but is sourced from China. Ramnik Chawla, Executive Vice-President and Harsimar Chawla, Director we constantly work towards With a positive outlook for the understanding and satisfying year ahead, Fashionite is looking other high-end accessories our clients as per their individual at expanding its business in the including fashion jewellery. requirements,” avers Harsimar. American market. Specializing The major shift from mass In the process, a major share of in the niche market, the step will products to high-end offerings the company’s business has now help the company bring in volume came in 2002, when Harsimar, been shifted to Japan and South business for their products. joined the business after America. “The buyers in Europe “Though it would be too soon to marriage. Originally from a travel are still buying, but the problem is name the buyers, but we have background, marriage pushed that they are now buying on credit received extremely good response Harsimar to explore the designer and we do not work on credit for our collection in the US, and within her and the company bases. To secure our payments, with a little reworking to the stepped into the manufacturing of we are now working with only market, we are ready to make fashion garments along with the advance payments, which acts an entry into the US this year,” existing product portfolio. “I have as a limitation for working with concludes Harsimar.

48 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 Fabric & Yarn SOURCING

Mill Made & Auto Loom Fabrics Fashion Fabrics Product specialisations , Poplins, Lycras, Canvas, drills, Yarn Dyed, , SHEETING, Denims, Linen, Dobbies, Voil, , gauge, Poly cotton, Modal, Tencil. All Dyed Sampling Availabe Mr. Sunil Mathur GF-2, Guru Angad Bhawan, 71, Nehru Place, New Delhi-110019 Phone 26289860, 26289861 Mobile 9810138582 Email [email protected] Category Manufacturer/Supplier

Cotton Studio Mr. Raman Jain G-1, Harsh Bhawan, 64-65, Nehru Place, Delhi-110019 Phone 91 11 31900303, 26295557 Mobile +91-8130600303 Email [email protected] Product Specialisation High Fashion Export Fabrics Category Manufacturers & Suppliers

Paras Cotswin Mr. HP Agarwal, Mr. Nishant Agarwal 507, 2nd Floor, Haveli Haider Quli, Chandni Chowk, Delhi-110006 Phone 91 11 43522324, 23933116 Mobile 9311266699, 9310976671/9818976671 Fax 91 11 43522323 Email [email protected]; [email protected] Website www.parascotswin.net Product Specialisation Greige – processed and yarn dyed fabric Category Sourcing Agent of 25 units including mills/powerloom across the country

Galundia Textiles Pvt. Ltd. Mr. Sudeep Galundia F-244/245, RIICO Industrial Area, Phase-III, P.O. Box 119, Bhilwara, Rajasthan (India) Phone + 91 1482 260580, 260189, +91 98291 18580 Email [email protected] Website www.galundia.co.in Product specialisation T/R, Polyester, Polyester / Viscose, Blended Suitings Suitable for making Trousers & Suits; Lycra & Teflon Fabrics; Fire Retardant Fabrics; Acid Finish Fabrics

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 49 resourcecentre

LABELS / TAGS / BARCODES ZIPPERS / FASTENERS

ELASTICS / TAPES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

SEQUINS / BEADS

50 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2013 resourcecentre

HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

TEXTILE PRINTING INK THREADS / YARN

EMBROIDERY FABRIC /

MARCH 16-31, 2013 | Apparel Online India 51 52 Apparel Online India Singapore based enfantenfant.com: Texperts India Opens Looking for organic suppliers its office in Gurgaon relatively new venture, Tirupur recently, she stressed the Texperts India, a Mumbai based Singapore based enfantenfant. importance of organic clothing supply chain management company A com with its parent company in in babies wear. “We believe that cum buying office, has opened its France, which specializes in baby organic products will be more in branch office in Gurgaon to cater clothing, is looking for organic demand with each passing day to the Delhi-NCR based buying suppliers and so we are looking to develop offices with raw materials like fibre, in India. Its good vendors who can meet our yarn and fabrics. While talking to Account increased demand,” said Wong. Apparel Online, Sharad Sanghai, Executive Director of the company shares, Earlier the company was sourcing Blix Wong “We would be supplying value added its organic cotton requirements was recently fibres, yarns and fabrics to the from Turkey, but with the country buying offices primarily sourced in Tirupur for becoming expensive, enfantenfant. out of South East Asian countries. the same. “We com is now exploring India as a We will be offering them new have a strong viable option. Tirupur being the developments for the coming season network in hub for organic baby wear, Wong and suggest them the right source South East is busy meeting vendors for her for procurement.” Asia primarily requirements. “Basically our Singapore, Besides sourcing, Texperts would collections per style are around Malaysia, also strengthen the presence of 2,000 to 3,000 pieces and we work Thailand, its two brands Fitz and Solemio in Blix Wong, Account Executive on many collections at the same Taiwan North India. The Gurgaon office is time. Our target is to make organic and Brunei and more than 200 being looked after by Brijesh Yadav affordable for everyone,” said good retailers are associated who was previously based in the Wong. Besides selling through with us,” informed Wong. Talking company’s Bangladesh office. leading retail formats, the company to the Apparel Online team in is also selling its collections online.

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