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1 The Best of Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard
Only 70 miles long, Cape Cod is a sea-worshippers who religiously pour curling peninsula that encompasses onto this peninsula and the Islands hundreds of miles of beaches and beyond every summer. more freshwater ponds than there are Experienced travelers are beginning days in the year. The ocean’s many to discover the subtler appeal of the moods rule this thin spit of land, and off season, when the population—and in summer, it has a very sunny dispo- prices—plummet. For some, the sition indeed. And little wonder. The prospect of sunbathing with the mid- “arm” of the Cape has beckoned way- summer crowds on sizzling sand can’t farers since precolonial days. More hold a candle to the chance to take than 17 million visitors flock from long, solitary strolls on a windswept around the world to enjoy nature’s beach, with only the gulls as company. non-stop carnival, a combination of Come Labor Day (or Columbus Day, torrid sun and cool, salty air. for stragglers) the crowds clear out, On the Cape, days have a way of and the whole place hibernates until unfurling aimlessly but pleasantly, with Memorial Day weekend, the official a round of inviolable rituals. First and start of “the season.” It’s in this down- foremost is a long, restful stint at time that you’re most likely to experi- the beach (you can opt for either the ence the “real” Cape. For some, it may warmer, gently lapping waters of the take a little resourcefulness to see the bay or the pounding Atlantic surf). beauty in the wintry, shuttered land- The beach is generally followed by a scape (even the Pilgrims, who forsook stroll through the shops of the nearest this spot for Plymouth, didn’t have town and an obligatory ice-cream stop. quite the necessary mettle), but the After a desalinating shower and per- people who do stick around are an haps a nap (the pristine air has a way of interesting, independent-minded lot inspiring impromptu snoozes), it’s time worth getting to know. for a fabulous dinner. There are few As alluring as it is on the surface, experiences quite so blissful as sitting at the region becomes all the more so the a picnic table overlooking a bustling more you learn about it. One visit harbor and feasting on a just-caught, is likely to prompt a follow-up. butter-dripping, boiled lobster. Although you can see all of the Cape, Be forewarned, however, that the and the Islands as well, in a matter of Cape can be a bit too popular at full days, you could spend a lifetime swing. Although it’s hard to fathom exploring its many facets and still just why the settlers waited nearly 3 cen- begin to take it all in. Early Pilgrims turies to go splashing in the surf, ever saw in this isolated spot the opportu- since the Victorians donned their nity for religious freedom, whaling bathing costumes there’s been no stop- merchants the watery road to riches, ping the waves of sun-, sand-, and and artists the path to capturing the 03 542818 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 4
4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAPE COD & THE ISLANDS
brilliance of nature’s palette. Whatever Cape, followed by the Islands. A great the incursions of commercialism and many other outstanding resorts, hotels, overdevelopment, the land is suffused inns, attractions, and destinations are with spirit, and it attracts seekers still. described in the pages of this book. Narrowing down possible “bests” is Once you start wandering, you’re sure a tough call, even for a native of the to discover bests of your own. region. The selections in this chapter Basic contact information is given are intended merely as an introduction for the enterprises listed below. You’ll to some of the highlights. They’re find more information by referring to listed from closest to farthest along the the appropriate chapters of the book.
1 The Best Beaches It is difficult to identify the best East Orleans to a point parallel to beaches without specifying for whom: Chatham—about 9 miles in all, fearless surfers or timid toddlers, party each mile increasingly deserted. types or incurable recluses? The bay- The entry point, however, is a side and sound beaches, for instance, body squeeze: It’s here that the tend to be much more placid than young crowd convenes to strut those on the ocean, and thus prefer- their stuff. Administered by the able for little ones who only plan to town of Orleans, but still consid- splash and muck about. ered part of the Cape Cod • Sandy Neck: This relatively National Seashore, Nauset Beach unpopulated, 6-mile barrier beach, has paid parking, restrooms, and a extending from the eastern edge of snack bar. See “Beaches & Recre- Sandwich to shelter Barnstable ational Pursuits,” under “Orleans,” Harbor, features pretty little dunes in chapter 6. seldom seen on the bayside. Hike • Cahoon Hollow: Spectacular in far enough (but avoid the nests Cahoon Hollow Beach on the of piping plovers), and you’re sure rough, frigid Atlantic Ocean is a to find a secluded spot. Adventur- winding trek down a 75-foot dune. ous types can even camp overnight See “Beaches & Recreational Pur- with permission (& 508/362- suits” under “Wellfleet” in chapter 8300). See “Beaches & Recre- 7. One Wellfleet favorite, which ational Pursuits” under “Sandwich” boasts a most unusual music club in chapter 4. housed in an 1897 lifesaving sta- • Falmouth Heights: On a clear tion is called The Beachcomber— day, you can see Martha’s Vineyard referred to fondly as the ’Comber, from this hip beach in Falmouth’s or better yet, ’Coma (& 508/349- most picturesque neighborhood. 6055). Twenty-somethings are the Grand turn-of-the-20th-century primary patrons, but lingering homes compete for the view with families also enjoy the reggae and newer motels, and the beach fills rock that starts to leak out late in up with families throughout the the afternoon on summer week- day. Off season, this beach is virtu- ends. See p. 192. ally deserted, perfect for romantic • Race Point: Free of the sexual pol- arm-in-arm strolling. See “Fal- itics that predominate the beaches mouth” in chapter 4. closer to Provincetown (certain • Nauset: Located along the outer sections of Herring Cove Beach “elbow” of the Cape, this barrier are tacitly reserved for gays or for beach descends all the way from lesbians), Race Point—another 03 542818 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 5
THE BEST BIKE ROUTES 5
Cape Cod National Seashore tennis courts, volleyball nets, a (CCNS) beach-cum–visitor center playground, and great fishing (off (& 508/487-1256) at the north- the eponymous jetties). It’s also ernmost tip of the Cape—is scenic (those jetties again) with strictly nondenominational. Even calm, warm water. See “Beaches & whales are welcome—they can Recreational Pursuits” in chapter 8. often be spotted with the bare eye, • Aquinnah Beach (formerly Gay surging toward Stellwagen Bank. Head) (Martha’s Vineyard): These See “Beaches & Recreational Pur- landmark bluffs on the western suits,” under “Provincetown,” in extremity of Martha’s Vineyard chapter 7. (call the chamber of commerce at • Jetties Beach: Nantucket’s beaches & 508/693-0085 for directions) as a rule have the best amenities of are threatened with erosion, so it’s any beaches in the region; most no longer politically correct to have restrooms, showers, life- engage in multicolored mud guards, and food concessions. For baths, as hippies once did. Still, families and active types, Jetties it’s an incredibly scenic place to Beach (just a half mile from the swim—come early to beat the center of town) can’t be beat. There crowds. See “Beaches & Recre- are boat and windsurfing rentals, ational Pursuits” in chapter 9.
2 The Best Bike Routes Blessed with many gently rolling hills, with innumerable detours that the Cape and Islands are custom-made beckon en route. See chapters 5 for a bike trek—whether as a way to get through 7. to the beach or as an outing unto itself. • Province Lands Trail (& 508/ • Cape Cod Canal: On this 14-mile 487-1256): Offering by far the loop maintained by the U.S. Army most rigorous workout, this 7-mile Corps of Engineers (& 508/ network swoops among the para- 759-5991), you can race alongside bolic dunes and stunted forests at the varied craft taking shortcuts the very tip of the Cape. Take your through the world’s widest time enjoying this somewhat sea-level canal. See “Beaches & spooky moonscape. Be sure to stop Recreational Pursuits” under off at Race Point Beach for a brac- “Sandwich” in chapter 4. ing dip, and at the Province • Shining Sea Bicycle Path Lands Visitor Center (& 508/ (& 508/548-8500): Connecting 487-1256) as well. See “Beaches Falmouth to Woods Hole by way of & Recreational Pursuits” under the shore and the picturesque Nob- “Provincetown” in chapter 7. 1 ska Lighthouse, this 3 ⁄2-mile path • Nantucket Town to Madaket lets you dash to the ferry or dally at (& 508/228-1700): Only 3 miles the beach of your choice. See wide and 14 miles long, Nantucket “Beaches & Recreational Pursuits” is a snap to cover by bike. The under “Falmouth” in chapter 4. 6-mile Madaket path crosses undu- • Cape Cod Rail Trail (& 508/ lating moors to reach a beach with 896-3491): Reclaimed by the boisterous surf. See “Beaches & Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, this Recreational Pursuits” in chapter 8. paved railroad bed currently • Nantucket Town to Surfside stretches some 25 miles from South (& 508/228-1700): An easy, flat Dennis all the way to Wellfleet, few miles from town, Surfside Beach is a perfect mini-excursion 03 542818 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAPE COD & THE ISLANDS Cape Cod
Brant Rock 3A Green Harbor Point Cape Ann Lowell 53 Alder House Boston Duxbury King Caesar House MASS Provincetown
S. Duxbury Fall River Plymouth Myles Standish Kingston Monument New Cape Cod Plymouth Light Bedford
Martha's 3A Vineyard Nantucket 3 Plymouth Bay Plymouth Plymouth Rock Rocky Point Plimoth Plantation White Horse Beach Manomet Point
South Pond Wellfleet Bay 3A Wildlife Sanctuary
Vallersville MYLES STANDISH Center Hill Point STATE FOREST Ellisville
Cedarville Sagamore Beach 3 Scussett Beach 495 Bournedale Sagamore Cape Cod Canal Sagamore Bridge 6 Sandwich SHAWME CROWELL Bourne Heritage Museums Buzzards Bay STATE FOREST & Gardens 195 Bourne Bridge E. Sandwich Aptucxet Trading Post Museum 6 13 0 6A Monument Beach Great Marshes 28 MASSACHUSETTS W. Barnstable MILITARY RESERVATION Pocasset Barnstable 149 Cataumet OTIS Marstons Mills AIR FORCE 13 0 BASE Centerville North Falmouth Mashpee New Silver Beach 28A 151 Santuit Osterville Old Silver Beach Cotuit Buzzards Bay 28 West Falmouth Chapoquoit Beach Waquoit
Saconessett Hills South Mashpee E. Falmouth Popponesset Beach Sippewissett Teaticket New Seabury Falmouth 28 Washburn Island South Cape Beach Nobska State Park State Park Woods Hole Light Ferries to Martha's Vineyard (Seasonal) Ferry to Martha's Vineyard (Year-round) 03 542818 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 7
THE BEST BIKE ROUTES 7
Race Point Beach 0 1/4 Mi Province Lands Visitor Center N Race Point 0 1/4 Km Light Pilgrim Lake T 6 o B Provincetown Head of the Meadow Beach o s Pilgrim Monument to Herring Cove Beach 6A C n Provincetown Cape Cod A (S Harbor P e N. Truro (Highland) Light E as Long C on Wood End Light O a Point Light D l) N 6 A Ballston Beach T I Truro O Pamet N Harbor Pilgrim Heights A nal) L To Plymouth (Seaso S E A
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O Cahoon R Hollow Beach E Wellfleet S. Wellfleet Wellfleet Marconi Wireless Harbor Station Site WWellfleetellfleet BayBay WWildlifeildlife SanctuarySanctuary Marconi Beach 6 N. Eastham Nauset Light Nauset Light Beach Salt Pond Visitor Center Coast Guard Beach Eastham
Cape Cod Bay Nauset Harbor Rock Harbor Tonset Nauset Heights Skaket Beach E. Orleans Namskaket Orleans Nauset E. Brewster 6A Beach Paine's Creek Beach 6 Cape Cod Museum of Natural History Brewster R.C. NICKERSON W. Brewster Mayflower Beach 6A STATE PARK Sandy Neck Beach 137 Dennis E. Dennis 124 Sandy Neck 13 4 Pleasant Bay Long Pond Barnstable 6A 39 STRONG ISLAND Pleasant Lake Harbor Yarmouth Port 28 Bassing Harbor E. Harwich N. Chatham Barnstable Village N. Harwich 6 S. Chatham TERN ISLAND 6 Barnstable S. Dennis Harwich 28 Municipal Airport Yarmouth Chatham 13 2 Harwich Port W. Chatham S. Yarmouth S. Harwich 28 W. Harwich 28 W. Yarmouth W. Dennis Red River MORRIS ISLAND Hyannis Beach Craigville JFK Hyannis Museum Bass River Dennisport Harding W. Hyannisport Beach Hyannisport
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