MARCH 2012 / Rs. 100 TREKKING SPECIAL ISSUE www.ecs.com.np ISSN 1729-2751 Trekking is good for you Trekking is good for you / In the beginning – Trekking Nepal Mountain Tourism and threat of extreme weather Meet Everests / In the beginning – Trekking Nepal Mountain Tourism and threat of extreme weather Meet Everests

TrekkingTrekking

MARCH 2012 ISSN 1729-2751 isis goodgood forfor youyou www.ecs.com.np The mountains are somewhere for everyone, some place anyone can become a better person. 9 771729 275000

SUBSCRIBER COPY SHERPA HERITAGE HOUSE NEWA CHHEN YETI MOUNTAIN HOMES 127 32 Local and international efforts 92 A Newar home turned lodge- 98 Rugged treks meet luxury pay homage to Sherpa lifestyle. cum-museum takes pride in accommodations in the picturesque conserving its Newar heritage. mountains in Solu Khumbu.

the NEPALI An way Photo Contest

Strong, emotional attachments with family is characteristic of Nepali living. Most Nepalese live with large, extended families and thus have a strong sense of family and community. What elements of family life do you think are Nepali in their essence? Theme for March : “Family”

Submit your photos at www.ecs.com.np/contesttest forfor a chance to have your work published and win excitingciting prizes!prizes! Supported by:

www.ecs.com.np/contest Next month’s theme: Nature and Wildlife

Photo by Robin Boustead ECS NEP THREAT OFEXTREMEWEATHER TREKKING NEPAL By LizbethLucksom Everest BaseCamp. a historicandalsodeeplypersonaltrekto The descendantsofGeorgeEverestmake 64 By Kashish DasShrestha industry. in regardtoNepal’strekkingandtourism writes abouttheperilsofglobalwarming First timecontributorKashish D. Shrestha 63 By DonMesserschmidt gear toafull-fledged,modernindustry. from scarybridgesandthelackofproper Trekking inNepalhascomealongway 54 FEATURES By Robin Boustead the hills. our practicalguideandheadto to doanymore.Pack light,read Trekking isnotjustatouristything for you 40 Trekking isgood COVER STORY MEET THEEVERESTS MOUNTAIN TOURISM ANDTHE IN THEBEGINNING– Bazaar, Solukhumbu. Hotel Namchein the hotelwindowfrom and theirreflectionon A viewoftheHimalayas ON THECOVER PIX PHOTOGRAPHY: [email protected]

(The LightSketch)

www.ecs.com.np AL MAR2012 The editorialteamregretstheerror Friendly People Friendly regarding theauthor’snameand content for NEPAL’s October 2011issue. Corrigendum Wild Mountains and and Mountains Wild

, publishedinECS Lhotse Wall 1996 Wall Lhotse

ECS NEPAL MAR 2012 www.ecs.com.np ECS REGULARS 32 20 EDITORIAL 112 SPILLED INK 114 HERITAGE TALE NOTICE BOARD 22 MARKET 24 EVENT LIVING IN NEPAL 28 PLACE: Beads of time 30 CULTURE: A riot of colors 32 HERITAGE: Sherpa Heriatge House

34 LIFESTYLE: Shagun ECS Media 36 PAGETURNER: The Life of Food in Nepal CRAFT 86 CRAFT RIGHT NOW 92 88 REVIEWS: The fabric of history 90 CRAFT IT YOURSELF: The humble candle 92 ART SHOP: Newa Chhen TRAVEL 96 TRAVEL NEWS 98 DIARY: Yeti Mountain Homes 100 POSTCARDS: Jiri 102 GOOD TO KNOW: Less is more

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ECS Nepal Magazine, Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Tel: 5011571, 5011639 Website: www.ecs.com.np No. 127 MARCH 2012

Publisher: ECS MEDIA PVT. LTD. Contributing Editor: DON MESSERSCHMIDT Design Executive: MANJESH MAHARJAN Sr. Photographer: DASH B. MAHARJAN Admin Executive: SHRUTI SINGH Managing Editor: SUNIL SHRESTHA Consulting Editor: DINESH RAI Assistant Design Executives: Photographers: HARI MAHARJAN, UMESH Account Executive: JEENA TAMRAKAR Director, Editorial & Marketing: NRIPENDRA KARMACHARYA Assistant Editor: UTSAV SHAKYA DIPESH MAHARJAN, ANJAN ALE BASNET, SUYESH RAJ SHRESTHA, Sr. Executive, Subscription & Distribution: Group Editor: ANIL CHITRAKAR Editorial Co-ordinator: LIZBETH LUCKSOM BIKRAM SHRESTHA Design Assistants: SUNIL MAHARJAN, RABINDRA PRAJAPATI Sr. Manager, Editorial & Marketing: SUDEEP MAN SHAKYA, HR Executive: PRAGYA POKHREL Promotions & PR Executive: ATULYA SMRITI SHRESTHA NEERAZ KOIRALA Editorial Enquiries:[email protected] Assistant Manager, Sales & Marketing: ACHARYA Manager, Editorial & Marketing: CHARU S. MALHOTRA Web Developer: MANISH SINGH BIJENDRA PRADHAN, ANGIRAS MANANDHAR Promotions & PR Assistant: KUNJIKA Manager, Editorial & Promotion: NILADRI S. PARIAL Sr. Sales Executive: SACHIN TAMRAKAR PRASAI Legal Adviser: HIRA REGMI Assistant Sales Executives: NIRBHEEK SUBEDI Subscription Assistant: PRERANA Sales Assistant: BIVEK RAJKARNIKAR, AMATYA, ALIZA AMATYA, SUJAN BABISH MAHARJAN SHRESTHA, RABIN MAHARJAN, | | Color Separation:CTP Nepal Pvt. Ltd. HATTIBAN, 525.0466/68 Printing:JAGADAMBA PRESS, HATTIBAN, 525.0017/18/19 Distributor:RB News Ad Enquiries:[email protected] RAJARAM NAGARKOTI

ECS NEPAL Magazine (ISSN 1729-2751) is published 12 times a year at the address above. All rights reserved in respect of all articles, illustration, photography, etc published in ECS Nepal Magazine. The contents of ECS SERVICES this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, who cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. All editorial inquiries and submissions to ECS Nepal Magazine must be addressed to [email protected] Director: RAM DEVI SHRESTHA Tusal, Maharajgunj, Kathmandu, Nepal EACH ISSUE: Rs. 100.00 in Nepal, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION IN NEPAL: Rs 900.00 (For 12 issues). Send all subscription request to ECS NEPAL Magazine, E-mail: [email protected], website: www.ecs.com.np 442.6439, [email protected] Our sister publications

ECS NEPAL MAR 2012 www.ecs.com.np 40 Photo by Robin Boustead

JUST DO IT The word addiction is often associated with negative or ‘bad’ habits, Talking of colors and trekking, the Annapurna Conservation but there are people addicted to being in the great outdoors. It is Area is going to be full of spring blossoms and the villages and hard to say whether it is the air, the sounds of the birds, bees and lodges are going to be busy hosting guests from all over the world. the winds passing through the trees; or just the joy of getting up The basic idea that people are part of all conservation solutions to the top and looking at the world all around, many people will has been proven by the population of the area. ACAP is one of just get up, strap on their boots, carry a back pack and start hiking those global fl agship success programs in establishing the best and trekking. Look at all the gear and equipment shops and outlets ways to conserve and manage natural resources. ECS is proud to out there. What a range of choices of jackets and boots, altimeter bring you stories that highlight this success and tell you the story of and compasses, water bottles and fl ashlights, backpacks and tents; the people and places of ACAP. This is one of the most popular it is a huge economy in itself. Like all habits and addictions, it has destinations for trekkers from all over the world. While in ACAP to start somewhere and sometime. This spring, in Nepal will be please make sure you spend some time listening to the stories of a good time and place to start. While many of the treks in Nepal how the people are overcoming challenges in conserving the area follow the river valleys from south to north and over high passes for all future generations. into the adjacent river valleys; the Great Himalayan Trail goes from Each month ECS is dedicated to bringing you the best stories east to west Nepal. and images of Nepal. From the beautiful living spaces of the Newa With the arrival of spring and warmer days, the season of colors Chen in Patan to the art and craft of candle making, we are all is here. The festival of Holi, which falls on March 7 this year, has teaming up to tell stories in the best possible way. The team would been and can be a great day of fun and games for children, the appreciate your inputs as well. Whatever you are doing this month, whole family and even the entire neighborhood. The idea is to use please make some time for the Nepali way. this festival of colors to create space for everyone to get together and have fun and help tie the bonds and deepen relationships. One does need to take care about the quality of the colors one uses and its effect on the eyes and skin. Many will also decide to celebrate Holi on the streets; and there will be numerous concerts and music festivals that you may want to attend. You do need to take care and Anil Chitrakar be “street smart” if you decide to venture out. Group Editor [email protected]

www.ecs.com.np NOTICE BOARD MARKET | EVENT

MARKET

Clear confidence contest Smirnoff® Gold Collection launched in Nepal The world’s number one vodka, Smirnoff, has come up with a new variant, Smirnoff Gold Collection- with the luxury of gold in every drop. The Smirnoff Gold Collection is a cinnamon spiced vodka. Gold cues feature prominently in all executions and the gold etched bottle itself showcases a flurry of real, edible gold leaf flakes suspended in this vodka. Available in Nepal in 1 litre pack size with 40% alc.vol, it is priced at NRs.3900. The launch of Smirnoff Gold Collection in Nepal is expected to be highly successful since a trial in India duty free channel, the vodka exceeded the expected reception. Clear Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, a brand and the highest scorer marked by the panel The vodka is great for cocktails. The from Unilever, has announced the winners of judges including Manoj K. C., famed manufacturers recommend “The Golden of Clear Confidence contest. The brand guitarist from 1974 A. D., Malina Joshi, Delicious” served in a martini glass of had put up a month long “30 Seconds of Lux Miss Nepal 2011 and Subu Shrestha, Smirnoff Gold Collection mixed with Clear Confidence” contest on Facebook Creative Director at Business Advantage. apple liqueur, cinnamon and a dash of from 19 December 2011 onwards. maple syrup. Anyone interested were eligible to upload Confidence of the participants and the 30 seconds of uncut and unedited video quality of the content were judged by the displaying their creativity and confidence. judges and concluded Abhishek Maskey, LG’s New Exchange Noyo Onta, Ojashri Basnet, Barun 141 videos were uploaded by the Pradhan and Abhilash Khatri as the Offer participants. The contest received winners. Abhilash Khatri and the rest, a overwhelming response and the videos single team, received a Sony Cybershot uploaded were liked by 43756 users on Camera each. Facebook. The Facebook page devoted to the contest received 3911 likes. The Likewise, Mahendra Devkota won a contest was an instant hit and 11000 cash prize of Rs.60000 on the basis of people were already talking about it highest number of likes on Facebook, on Facebook. Two sets of winners were Sachin Thakuri received Rs.30000, and selected on 19 January 2012 on the basis Sushil Ghale and Bibek Neupane won of highest number of likes on Facebook Rs.20000. (Nimma Adhikari) Springwood launches new winter collection Surya Nepal Private Limited’s initiative the market. The clothes like half zip-neck LG Electronics launched a new consumer Springwood recently launched their winter sweater, V- neck sweater with round scheme “LG Har Ghar Ma LG LCD wa collection. A huge range of premium t-shirt, V-neck check sweater, Springwood LED, Purano Ko Satta Ma Naya TV” under winter apparels are available within the sweaters, Springwood hoodies cater to LG Exchange Offer. collection. According to the manufacturers, both style quotient as well as comfort for this collection features denim and khaki the people. The clothes are available in According to the scheme, consumers in the finest designs straying away from various colors and designs which can even received LG LCD or LED TV in exchange the usual sweaters that are available in be paired with formal outfits. of an old TV of any brand.

22 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Whirlpool Dealers’ Meet in Kathmandu

Whirlpool organized its Kathmandu Dealers Conference on 2 February 2012 in which approximately 100 dealers from all across the country participated. It was a forum where the officials from Whirlpool India interacted with all their trade partners to understand and review the performance of 2011 as well as plan for the upcoming year 2012. During this meet Whirlpool showcased its latest range of products and announced exciting trade schemes for the dealers. Whirlpool’s Vision for Nepal is “Every Home Every Where with Pride, Passion & Care”. Apex Short Film Competition Apex Short Film Competition 2012 Sisan Baniya’s group won the first was organized in September with two place and received a cash prize of workshop programs. The first workshop Rs. 8000 along with certificates and by Director Keshab Pandey was held a trophy. Similarly, Anup Sapkota and on 16 September, he talked about the Biplav Gyawali’s group stood in the importance of camera angles, direction second and third place respectively, way, script, sound and music in a film. receiving a cash prize of NRs. 5000 The second one by Sound Engineer and NRs. 3000. Pradeep Upadhyay was held on 24 September. He gave ideas about sound Principal L.P. Bhanu Sharma honored and its effects in film making. the four judges from the field of The screening of 20 short films started direction, sound, editing and camera on 12 January, out of which 8 films with khada and a token of love. were selected for the main event on 16 Director of Academic Affairs Vinaya January in the auditorium Hall of Apex Kumar Sharma distributed the College. The guest of honor was CEO certificates of participation to all the of Himalaya TV Narayan Puri. participants and the organizers.

Dragonair celebrates Year of the Dragon Year) were presented with a special delicacy – Lee Kum Kee XO Sauce (gift edition). Lee Kum Kee XO Sauce is praised as the “Caviar of the Orient” and provides a tasty complement.

First Class and Business Class passengers received Fook Ming To celebrate the arrival of the Year of Tong “Floral Symphony” tea on 24 the Dragon, Dragonair offered festive and 25 January (the second and giveaways to passengers travelling over third day of the Lunar New Year) the Lunar New Year period. First Class while Economy Class passengers and Business Class passengers who were offered a special pastry, Kee travelled on all Dragonair flights on 22 Wah Bakery’s Sesame Bites, on and 23 January (eve of the Lunar New 23 and 24 January (the first and “Shriti” Year and the first day of the Lunar New second day of the Lunar New Year). Sandook Jhamsikhel, Lalitpur GIFT STORE Ph: 5542062 E-mail: [email protected] https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sandook/144310948927041 NOTICE BOARD EVENT

Tatva exhibition at Nepal Art Council

H.E. Dr. Sergey Vasilievich Velichkin, The audience was treated to a large Russian Ambassador to Nepal collection of paintings focusing on the inaugurated Sagar Manandhar’s solo five elements of life—fire, water, air, exhibition at the Nepal Art Council. H.E. light and earth. With a strict regiment Velichkin emphasized in his speech, of colors, the artist delved into the Manandhar’s unique ability to see things examination of bonds at both the differently and to create art works that elemental level and the broader realm of swallow the viewer to depths unknown. the exact reality. On grids of paint with There were many artists at the venue scraped off layers of paint, Manandhar to see “Tatva.” Kapil Mani Dixit said he controled the flow of pallets and lights to is always excited to see Manandhar’s guide eyes through each dimension of work and follows his progress intimately. his work.

eye-catching compositions straight out Three in a crowd photographs of walls and brick structures. Pakistani artists Atif Khan, Sophiya Khwaja Brick-by-brick is rusty and nostalgic; the and Zaira Ahmad’s prints were a great lines only lending a modicum weight of insight into what is happening in ‘the structure. Cracks crease the paper likes land of the pure’- Pakistan. Atif Khan’s prose Arabic calligraphy on faded paper. monochrome Mughals explore the Finally, Khwaja’s satirical take on the issues metaphor of the heart. “Landscape of the encountered in Pakistan resonates with Heart” series follows the singled out subject frustrations akin to those of Nepalis. Using on many adventures with the motif. In the crest and the star and the color green, contrast, the hearts are vivid and colored. continues the playfulness of Khans work Lithe lines that wrap the organ are fabric- and concludes one fine exhibition, one that like. Ahmad on the other hand, strays is also strengthening ties between the two away from the details and appropriates countries. (Nischal Oli)

Ishq: A poetic enactment On 5 February, poetry from Iran, Deborah Merola, with One World Turkey, India and Nepal came together Theatre, directed the enactment. in a dramatic enactment for ‘Ishq – It included some of the work from The Madness of Love’. The show took the mystics Meylana Rumi and Amir place in the premises of Hotel Shangri- Khusrau along with celebrated poets like la, Lazimpat. Rabindranath Tagore, Kaifi Azmi and Laxmi Prasad Devkota, which was put beautifully together.

The actors Murad Ali, Diya Maskey and Divya Dev Pant gave a compelling performance, while the audience swayed away to Shyam Nepali’s sarangi melodies. Nepali’s rhythm perfectly complimented the act and Maskey’s Kathak performance. (Mannat Shrestha)

what’s on things to do this month

lots of dancing, and good house and club music. Enjoy and rejuvenate yourselves with the grand Nepfest March With various attractions from the likes of world celebration of Holi, at the Splash Fest 2012. class DJs, amazing decorations and even more Being organized by ASpadez Entertainment, the Date: 17 March (Saturday) amazing sound system, the party will definitely event is looking to provide a refreshing break Time: 1 pm onwards welcome 2069 in style. to all the working professionals from their busy Venue: Fun Park, Bhrikuti Mandap working hours. The event will also feature the 5541322 Ticket Cost: To be announced. game of ‘Water Football’ as one of the main Nepfest is coming up with yet another big event attractions. as one of the promotional gig for the legendary MISCELLANEOUS All Women Scooty Rally polish death metal juggernaut ‘Decpitated’ Date: 8 March (Thursday) who are set to perform at the Nepfest IV, this Purple themed Mad Hatter’s Tea Time: 8 am onwards September. For all those who missed out on the Party Venue: Kathmandu Durbar Square to Bhaktapur Nepfest Reloaded, Nepfest in association with Date: 2 March (Thursday) Durbar Square, 9851043398 KTM Rocks presents Nepfest March with a big Time: 3 pm onwards surprise for all the metal heads in the venue. The Venue: Meconopsis Boutique Hotel, Pulchowk Kgarira.com is organizing the first ever all event will feature some of the metal bands in the (opposite Sajha Petrol Pump), 9849113388 women scooter rally on the occasion of city like Antim Grahan, Kalodin, White, Garudh, International Women’s Day, 8 March. The The Exorcist, Disintegrated, and Fractals. An exhibition of the winners of the Kids 4 Kids art event will feature different activities in order competition will also be held at the venue. ‘Kids to create awareness on issues related to Ticket Cost: Rs. 150 helping kids all over the world, that’s what it’s all women. Join them to celebrate womanhood about’, that’s a line from the theme song for Purple with a difference. The starting point will be MUSIC AND PARTIES Cake Day, an event focused on the celebration Kathmandu Durbar Square, passing through of children. It’s a day of fun and action for kids, various hot spots the rally will finally end Parikrama Live in Concert encouraging them to think about their role in at Bhaktapur Durbar Square. There will be Date: 24 March (Saturday) the global community – also to become aware of various checkpoints where the participants Time: 1 pm onwards children with less educational opportunity and to will be provided with refreshments. The rally Venue: Jawalakhel Football Ground, Jawalakhel, demonstrate support by taking action. People of all will be followed by a formal program and a 9801032067 ages can join the event and have fun while working musical act at the start and the end points. for a noble cause. The Purple Cake Day country in With the band Abhaya and the Steam Injuns, After the successful Baneshwor Street Fest, profile for 2012 is Nepal. the event will feature talks from leading women Frequency Events are organizing an informative entrepreneurs and celebrities as well. musical event featuring the well known rock band So, wear something purple and come down to from India Parikrama. The event will feature many Meconopsis Boutique Hotel in Pulchowk for a Registration fees: Rs. 250/- (including T-shirt and artists like Nepal’s famous rock band Cobweb, purple themed Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. Purple Refreshments) Abhaya and the Steam Injuns, X-Mantra, Mt. 8848 cakes, food and drink, stalls, live jazz, kid’s corner and also the hip-hop group Nepsydaz. Then all the and spot prizes for best purple outfits. There is excitement is set to be followed by a DJ session also the chance to win two nights along with B-boying to top up the event. From at Temple Tree Resort and Spa in mouth watering food stalls, interesting games the Pokhara, a night at the Last Resort, event will be one of its kind with something for meals out, language courses and everyone. The tickets are soon to be available at other great prizes in a raffle. Raffle famous restaurants and retail shops. tickets will be available prior to the event at the Meconopsis Ticket Cost: To be announced Boutique Hotel, Chez Caroline Nepal Naccha and at the event itself. Date: 13 April (Friday) Splash Fest 2012 Time: 4 pm onwards Date: 8 March (Thursday) Venue: Club Paradiso, Lakeside, Pokhara Time: 10 am onwards In celebration of Nepalese New Year 2069, Kandel Venue: International Club, Consultant (Melbourne, Australia) is organizing a Sanepa global event featuring red carpet, photo shoots, 9841269716

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LIVINGPLACE | CULTURE | HERITAGEIN | LIFESTYLE | NEPAL PAGETURNER

PLACE Beads of time The generations of Muslim pote necklace makers in Patan are a study in the complex nature of life in the capital Text By YUKTA BAJRACHARYA

he Pote shops in the Patan Durbar Square Area also known locally as Mangal Bazaar adds bold shades to the square. The area comes alive withT different colorful potes hanging and glistening in the yellow light of bulbs. These little shops are mostly owned by Muslim families who have been occupy- ing these areas with their strings of potes and boxes of bangles for generations. The ambience is further lit up by the chitchat and laughter of the shopkeepers and customers. The Muslim community, of around 30-35 families living in and around ECS Media the area, are primarily known as pote sellers and have blended in with the Newari com- munity of the area. The colorful tiny glass beads com- “Our great grandfathers came to monly known as ‘pote’ (poh-tay) hold great Kathmandu from Kashmir as traders and signifi cances in the lives of Nepali women, especially those belonging to the Brahmin settled in the area during the Malla era…” and Chhetri castes. Often woven into strings to make a necklace, these necklaces footpath before she shifted to her present, “We have been doing this since forever. Our when worn with long golden beads known proper shop. Sakila spends her days at the great grandfathers came to Kathmandu as tilhari represent the marital status of shop, adding tilharis to the pote, stringing from Kashmir as traders and settled in the women besides bringing in good luck and pote crystals, besides selling complementing area during the Malla era, taking up pote and long life to their husbands. bangles and other make up items. bangle selling as their means of livelihood,” “Sanchai hunu huncha?” (How are you?) Across from Sakila’s store, on the temple informs Firoz. “While earlier, Mangal Bazaar A woman passing by Sakila Banu’s shop in- porch, the husband and wife duo of Amina was the main market area and people used quires and after replying with a smile, she gets Banu and Firoz Din have their own stall, to come to us when they required potes back to spooling the ends of the necklace somewhere they have been for 42 years now. and choodi (bangles), now you get this ev- with red and golden yarns. Sakila like most Wearing his Taqiyah and salwar kameez, erywhere, which has affected our business,” men and women of her generation in her Firoz Din sits at the front of the modest stall, says Firoz Din. family learnt the job from her grandparents tending to their customers. With decades of Just like how the potes and bangles when she was ten years old. That was the experience, he can simply feel the hands of add to the beauty of a woman, the pote family tradition then. “But my daughters his customer to bring out the right size and shops and the warm-hearted pote sellers do not know how to make potes,” she says type of bangles that the customer would add to the elegance of Mangal Bazaar adding, “this is something that you will be like. The revenue earned from the stall used area. When this tradition fi nally comes to good at only if you really want to learn and to be their main source of income. Now, a halt, sad but probable after the current my daughters aren’t interested.” She used the generation after them has chosen other generation of pote sellers, Mangal Bazaar to have a small stall on the Durbar Square’s occupations and is no longer in the business. will lose more than just a dash of color. ■

28 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

LIVING IN NEPAL CULTURE A riot of colors Mythology and folklore aside, Holi is a time to forget old rivalries and enjoy the onset of spring and harvest season. Text By ANUBHUTI POUDEL

he best way to describe Holi Lord Krishna teasingly hid the gopinis’ would be to smear this sheet with big splashes of differ- clothes while they took a dip in the holy ent colors and randomly carveT in stick fi gures, indistinguishable Yamuna and hung them on a tall tree. from one another except in shape and size. This ‘festival of colors’ is one of The legend behind this festival, gives this apparently blasphemous behavior, the most important ones for Hindus. leeway to tease and fl irt amongst the the king made many attempts to kill Although there is religious signifi cance young. In India, in parts of the Nepali his son. Holika, on the other hand had and mythological reference to Holi, it Terai and even in cities bhang, a cheap a special gift of being immune to fi re. is essentially a time for merry-making, intoxicant used recreationally for cen- In an attempt to help her brother, the singing, dancing, cheerful banter, turies during Shiva Ratri made from king kill his son, she sat on a huge fi re celebration of the coming of spring the cannabis plant is gaining popularity. with Prahlad on her lap. At this, Prahlad and the harvest season. It falls on the It has now become synonymous with chanted Lord Vishnu’s name con- full moon day in early March (Falgun Holi celebrations and is available at local tinuously and in effect, Holika burnt – Nepali calendar month) so is often sweetshops. At the onset of the festival, to death whereas Prahlad walked out referred to locally as Fagu Purnima or teenagers and even adults throws water unscathed. Since Holika had misused just Fagu. balloons at passers-by. the power bestowed on her, she was Many legends and myths surround Holi. Another piece of folklore that marks punished. This is the lesson children Colors and frolicking are just part of it and how Holi gets its name is the widely are taught over the bonfi re lit every mark the last day of a week-long celebration known story of Holika, the sister of Holi’s evening to mark the triumph of in Nepal. Especially in Kathmandu, a long the demonic king Hiranyakashap. good over evil. bamboo pole called the “chir” is erected in The king was granted a boon by Lord Sans the myths and the religious his- Basantapur and laden with colorful strips of Brahma for his devotion that made tory, today Holi is mostly about wear- cloth as good luck charms. This is related to it impossible to kill him. Riding high ing ragged clothes, coloring your faces, the legend of how Lord Krishna being his on this glory, the demon king wanted enjoying a little bhang with pakoras amorous and mischievous self teasingly hid everyone in his kingdom to worship (vegetable tempuras), loud music, crazy the gopinis’ (female cow herders) clothes him as god. While everyone consented, dancing, forgetting old rivalries and rev- while they took a dip in the holy Yamuna his own son Prahlad became an ardent eling in a lot of colorful play – a reason and hung them on a tall tree. devotee of Lord Vishnu. Enraged by to celebrate life in its myriad colors. ■ Photos by ECS Media

30 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

LIVING IN NEPAL HERITAGE Sherpa Heritage House An ancestral house in Khumjung is set to be a living museum dedicated to the culture and lifestyle of the Sherpa people. Text By NIRAJ KARKI

BuiltBl to be b a living l museum, the house reflects the old Sherpa lifestyle.

mong the many trekking routes raising dinner as well as a charity trek to the furniture. The house comprises two wings that start from Pokhara, there Everest Base Camp in October 2010. joined at right angles to each other – the living is one named the Royal Trek – Pertemba Sherpa has donated his an- wing for accommodation and the religious aptly named for it was a route cestral home, which is at present the oldest wing for prayers also housing statues, sacred Atailored for HRH Prince Charles on his house in Khumjung, older even than most texts and Buddhist emblems. fi rst trek to Nepal. His guide then was of the monasteries in the area and the last his- With a working fund of over £80,000, Pertemba Sherpa, who among his many toric one, unlike most others that have been the project is under way and promises to accomplishments has climbed Everest three converted into modern homes. The house is be a great step towards the preservation times including the fi rst ascent of Everest built in the traditional Sherpa style using slate of the ancient Sherpa ways. Built to be a by Doug Scott led by Sir Chris Bonington. and stone with carved doors, windows and living museum, the house refl ects the old That ascent, a page already woven into Sherpa lifestyle refl ecting the connection history has only been the start of a story of the Sherpa people, their livestock, greater, a story about mountains, its people, their religion and the mountains. their ways of life, a story of friendship and While the renovation of the heritage compassion. Both Sir Chris Bonnington house is close to completion, a coffee and Doug Scott have since dedicated great shop just next to the heritage house has effort into helping the people of Nepal. already been built. All proceeds from the One of their recent endeavours is the coffee shop will go to the maintenance Sherpa Heritage House, an effort started of the heritage house. by Pertemba Sherpa in 2006 to preserve the The best way to get to the Sherpa culture and heritage of the Sherpas, in a fast Heritage is to fly to Lukla and then changing world and educate the younger trek to Namche Bazaar, walk up past generations about their old ways of living. the Syangboche Airstrip and arrive at The committee running the project for Khumjung Village. The walk from Lukla the heritage house is headed by its President to Namche Bazaar is about 7 Hours and Prince Charles, Pertemba Sherpa, Chris Bon- from Namche Bazaar to Khumjung is nigton the patron, Doug Scott, and Maggie about 3 - 4 hours. ■ Burgess who has been working extensively helping the people who are suffering from For more information: leprosy in Nepal. The project has so far had www.sherpaheritagehouse.org Pertemba Sherpa, 9851077341 fund raisings done in London over a fund

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LIVING IN NEPAL LIFESTYLE Shagun Preparing for the uncertain with a little prayer and lots of love Text By ANUBHUTI POUDYAL

t is strange how within a group of A balance between five elements, earth, fire, friends you easily forget their unique cultural backgrounds. You do not wind, water and sky or space is regarded care about their castes or culture integral for human safety and prosperity. Iuntil you are presented face to face with what they believe in. I looked at my friend as one after another of her relatives gave prosperity. Shagun is given to make sure Unlike in other cultures, Newars were her wishes and their blessing, in the form there is balance between these elements, permanent inhabitants of the Kath- of items more than words. The environ- which is integral for the happiness and mandu valley. Traveling was a rare and ment was a strange mix of excitement safety of the one who is leaving. Items uncertain practice, which was met by an and uncertainty; excitement for the trip symbolizing these elements in different equally interesting tradition of present- that was ahead for my friend and uncer- ways, namely, egg, fi sh, alcohol, water and ing Shagun and praying for the person’s tainty for all that the future held for her. fi re are all present as a part of this ritual, safety. Experts of the culture believe As a Newar woman, giving Shagun before creating the balance that we talked about. that it has expanded over the years re- a long trip away from home might be a sembling something more than good normal, even mundane practice. But to Lord Ganesh, regarded as the protec- luck and has grown bigger into a festive someone who belongs to a non-Newari tor deity who removes obstructions occasion as a result of prosperity. It is a culture, this is an extremely interesting from people’s lives is the central char- practice involving many family members ritual and one worth talking about. acter of the ritual. On the day of the and relatives, eating and celebrating to- departure, family and friends gather gether and bidding the person goodbye. Shagun basically means good luck. It is giv- and present all items regarded im- en in different occasions most prominent portant for good luck. There is Lord Shagun intrigues some and is a way of life in Newari culture to symbolize a healthy Ganesh, followed by a Mandala made for others. As an idea or a feeling, it is a time. It is a normal practice in various re- with rice and colors, curd, duck’s egg, practice that is a part of a very old and ligious and cultural rituals. However, dur- fi sh and alcohol. One after another, respected culture and still involves the ing travels, its signifi cance is greater. relatives present these items to the humble idea of praying for an individual’s person who is traveling. The methods safety before he ventures to a little known A balance between fi ve elements, earth, and few practices might differ within location. There is added splendor to the fi re, wind, water and sky or space is re- Newari culture as well but the core of ritual but the idea remains and that is why garded integral for human safety and the practice is the same. it still holds its place in the culture. ■

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LIVING IN NEPAL PAGETURNER The Life of Food in Nepal WORLD FOOD PROGRAM NEPAL Reviewed by Don Messerschmidt “ ‘Have you eaten?’ is the same as ‘How are you?’ in the Nepali context. This standard conversational gambit shows the place of food in our culture.” – Anil Chitrakar

The Life of Food in Nepal “is a powerful portrayal of the incredible beauty, diversity and harshness of Nepal’s landscape and a tribute to the resilient spirit of her farmers.” – from the Acknowledgments

n Nepali culture when food tastes nettle, including a recipe for nettle soup); hagiographic hype. Instead, it gives us a good, something looks great, or the z Bibek Bhandari’s ‘Potato’ (the lowly simple, genuine look at the story of food written or spoken word sounds nice, “meat to the poor” that revolutionized through the eyes and experiences of the it is common to say that it is ‘mitho’ Nepali farming after its introduction people, especially Nepalese farmers. ■ –I loosely, ‘sweet’. More expansively to the Himalayas in the 18th century); ‘mitho’ means delicious, tasty or appetizing z Prawin Adhikari’s ‘A certain kind of (food); nice, interesting or beautiful (things); loss’ (about the traditional preparation and softspoken, charming or persuasive of a once popular yam-like wild tuber); (words). and z Utsav Shakya’s ‘Yomari’ (the my- While seeking the appropriate term thology and festivity associated with this to describe this remarkable book, popular Newari sweet). ‘mitho’ comes immediately to mind, in Insights on the meaning of food in all its contexts. As a book, it is beautiful. the Nepali cultural context permeate It’s about Nepali food in all its culinary the book. They begin with an observa- variety and gustatory glory, from seeds- tion by the WFP’s Richard Ragan in the in-the-fi eld, to harvest and the market Foreword, harkening back to that age- place, and on to the dinner platter on old notion that “You are what you eat,” normal days and at festivals. It is basi- and on to reveal the deep association cally a book of photos, dozens of them between Nepali people and their cuisine in full color, some of which cover whole that “goes way beyond that of simple pages. There are also short essays, plus sustenance...” Ragan writes that “Ritual an introduction and a brief description and a daily dedication to spirituality per- of the UN World Food Programme. meates this land” a combination that he The idea for this publication was characterizes as “a marriage where food developed by the former World Food always features heavily...” He concludes Programme Country Director Richard with this observation: “To the crops they Ragan and local photographer James grow, the Nepalese award the highest Giambrone. This remarkable collabora- honour; they pass it to the Gods. In no tion fi rst came to light as a photo exhi- other place on earth will you fi nd food bition held at the Nepal Arts Council accorded such spirituality and respect.” in July 2010. The published version Ultimately, the book celebrates the cen- features over a 100 pages of photos tral role that food plays in the lives of from 18 photographers, and ten short the Nepalese. essays from six authors. They include It says and portrays more about the z Anil Chitrakar’s ‘My tribute to a book daily life of the people, rich and poor, about food’ and the section introduc- east to west, rural and urban, and from tions − ‘The food’, ‘The land’, ‘The the lowlands across the mid-hills to the life’ and ‘The ritual’; z Sujeev Shakya’s high mountains, than most other coffee-

‘From farm to market’ (on the need to table sized picture books on Nepal. U.N. World Food Program/Nepal, 2010, support farmers, and the rise of farm- And, although it is a UN World Food 120pp., profusely illustrated. Available at ers’ cooperatives); z Muna Gurung’s Programme production, it is thankfully Vajra Books, the Patan Museum Gift Shop, ‘Sishnu’ (heaping praise on the stinging not strewn with UN logos and other Indigo Gallery and other bookstores.

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40 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np “ TrekkingTrekking isis goodgood forfor you!you! Trekking is more about interacting and learning from your journey than about the mighty mountains that you tread on. www.ecs.com.np TextTextt aandndd PPhotoshhotos bby ROROBINBIN MBOBBOUSTEAD A RUS C HTE 2012AD41 h my God, it’s simply unbe- to visit in Nepal at any time of year. accepting way by a stranger in Australia lievable!” I fi rst spoke these The concept of ‘off and on-seasons’ and it makes immersing myself in the words when I trekked to has baffl ed me for years, especially as Himalaya even more delightful. I believe Kanchenjunga in 1993 and I I often find the ‘off-season’ a much the best way to enjoy life is through par- stillO speak them every time I venture back better time to head outdoors than the ticipation because it means you have to into the hills. But I’m still not quite sure ‘on’. Yes, there are some activities that share something of yourself. Trekking what it is that so amazes and delights me are somewhat season-specifi c but the and spending time in the hills inevitably every time I go trekking. timing and conditions of seasons varies means you’ll be part of a stranger’s life The greatest mountain scenery on a huge amount across Nepal, let alone and embraced by a world beyond your the planet is a good start, but I know it the whole Himalaya. So, I fi nd that fi rst own. For me, the variety and diversity of is far, far more than that; it’s something concentrating on the sort of experience the mountains is another strong draw- about the people I meet when I’m in the I would like to have answers most ques- card. That by crossing a ridge you can Himalaya. It may sound a bit corny, but tions about timing, destination, duration enter another world of language, culture, I think the Himalaya is where I became and diffi culty. traditions and beliefs is a constant re- a man. Not in the Man vs Wild way, but I was sitting in a nomad’s tent in minder that no one opinion is absolute, where I learnt respect, tolerance, how Upper Dolpo in late November. It was there is always something new to learn to be part of a team and how to lead cold outside and my guide and I hadn’t around the next bend. when things get tough. Basically, I learnt eaten for many hours. Without talking the sort of things you can’t learn in a the nomad lit some yak dung in a small FIRST STEPS classroom and that’s why I believe the brazier and placed a fl at rock on top. As Everyone has to start somewhere and my mountains are somewhere for everyone, he began cooking buckwheat pancakes fi rst Himalayan forays were simple and somewhere anyone can become a better he smiled and said we looked hungry short. I began with a 5-day trek along the person. and that we should eat his pancakes with Singalila Ridge to the south of Kanchen- One of the real beauties of the Hima- homemade chilli sauce. It was an experi- junga, a trip that was to inspire my love laya is that you don’t have to be a crazed ence I shall forever treasure, so simple of the Himalaya. Each year I sought mountain nut to enjoy them. The variety and yet profound. out slightly longer or more challenging of places, people, terrain, seasons, ecol- Whenever I have ventured beyond treks to the Annapurna, Langtang and ogy and history mean you can indulge the tourist trails I immediately encoun- Khumbu regions. Without realising it I almost any interest for as long or short ter an authenticity and hospitality that was building my confi dence on the trail as you like. Contrary to what many be- is beyond my comprehension. I would and what I now call fi eld-craft or trek- lieve, there is always somewhere great never be treated in the same tolerant, king wisdom. The weather had been bad for a couple of days, enclosing us in thick misty cloud. We stopped at the Nag Thali gompa on the Tamang Heritage Trail, the caretaker let us shelter beside his meagre fi re. He made some tea and started play- ing haunting laments on a dramyin (Tibe tan guitar). After sharing some boiled potatoes he helped erect our tents. The following morning he woke us as the sun glinted off the top of sunken cloud that fi lled the valleys below. He seemed proud to share his mountain-island-world with us. Each time I’ve returned to Nag Thali we enjoy a cup of tea and sometimes he sings. My time in the hills has gradually changed me. As I spend more time with my crew and locals I have developed new interests and am beginning to

42 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 43 44 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np understand different perspectives. In 2005, a wild trek between Up- Inspired by the crew, I have found per Mugu and Upper Dolpo was far inner strength and my resilience more physically challenging than I and persistence when under stress had bargained for but the extra effort has improved. When it comes to and sense of accomplishment upon life-skills I am not a particularly fast completion was amazing. Learning that learner, so it took me some time to we are normally only restricted by what understand that my character was we believe ourselves to be able to do changing for the better. Now, as I and not what is actually possible has look back, I realise that youth and been the most fantastic discovery of outdoor organisations around the my life... and it’s something I know is world, from corporate team build- true for anyone! ing to the Scouts, use the same Researching and documenting the principles. Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) has ful- People of different abilities joined fi lled many dreams and inspired many me on trips and it was a struggle at more. The physical diffi culties have fi rst to keep the group united. Some- been considerable but maintaining That’s why I think the times the stronger walkers would dis- motivation and a balanced perspec- concept of the GHT appear up the trail for hours at a time, tive when the weather is against you or those with a cultural or religious or when the food runs out has been network is so powerful; interest would linger in villages and tougher. That’s why I think the concept gompas. It took me a few attempts of the GHT network is so powerful; anyone can design their to teach people that by remaining anyone can design their own experi- own experience and together we ultimately get further and ence and level of challenge; there is by enjoying the group experience we no right or wrong, just whatever best level of challenge; there all benefi t. When I then included both suits you. the trekking crew and the communi- Standing on the high passes between is no right or wrong... ties we were visiting in my overall Makalu and Everest was a highlight of group dynamic I began to see how re- exhilaration and relief. The effort, skill sponsible tourism really does work in and teamwork needed to succeed is the the fi eld. This has become one of the same as running a successful enterprise most important guiding principles of anywhere, and of course, you have to the Great Himalaya Trail, that often make some of your own luck along the it’s not the ‘where’ but the ‘how you way. When I descended to the relative do things’ that matters most. safety of Baruntse Base Camp I was overwhelmed by emotion and gratitude RISING TO CHALLENGES towards the team with me, without Teahouse trekking along the most whom the GHT would still be a dream popular trails is both comfy and for me. It was then I realised how far I convenient, but it limits your experi- had come in my personal journey in the ence and I longed to visit places un- Himalaya and how far I was yet to go. touched by tourism. I began by going The things I have learnt about to remote-r areas, like Rara Lake, the myself while trekking have become Ganesh Himal and the far-west of an integral part of my day to day life: Nepal. To my surprise, the walking the confi dence to tackle new projects, wasn’t any harder, and in many vil- the humility to ask for advice and lages there were simple lodges and guidance, the strength to shoulder dhabas (eateries) that provided shelter responsibility and the motivation to and food as well as a more authentic push through tough times. Perhaps feeling to my trips. They felt like the that is what so amazes and delights real Nepal I had been hoping to fi nd. about trekking?

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 45 How to plan a trek?

The Experience – First, consider the and dhabas are commonplace throughout sort of trekking experience you would lower altitude trips across the Himalaya. like to have. Do you want a personal chal- Trekking independently or with a guide lenge in the mountains, or to immerse and/or crew is an important consid- yourself in cultures, enjoy a festival or eration, see the table below for more does a specifi c activity appeal? When you information. have a goal it will be easier to identify Trek Duration – The amount of time specifi c treks. you can spend away from home is a ma- Time of Year – Then, think about the jor factor in deciding which trek to do; best time to get that sort of experience remember to leave yourself some buffer in the various regions of the Himalaya. time before and after the trek in case of Remember that altitude is often a limit- transport or weather delays. ing factor so make sure you consider Trek Grades – Finally, consider the trek- mid-hills options, especially in the winter king grades for your chosen region(s) and months. try to match your expectations of ‘life Trek Style – Many higher-altitude trek- on the trail’ with the level of skill and king regions are only accessible to camp- commitment required. Make sure you ing trips, but in the Annapurna, Everest, consider the expectations and ability of Kanchenjunga, Manaslu, Helambu or everyone in your group, it’s never nice to Langtang regions teahouse-style treks are drop people into the deep-end if they are an attractive alternative. Local teahouses just learning the ropes.

Independent trekking Teahouse trekking Trekking with a without a guide with a guide camping crew

Annapurna, Everest, Annapurna, Everest, Ideal destination Kanchenjunga, Langtang, Anywhere in Nepal. Helambu, Langtang. Manaslu, Mustang.

Average number of Up to a couple of One to three Two to four days on the trail. weeks per trek weeks per trek weeks per trek

Level of fl exibility Good, you dictate your Generally poor, but depends on Generally poor, but depends on in your itinerary. own pace. group arrangements. group arrangements.

Cost level Low to Medium Medium to High Medium to High

Need to be strong and fit Training advisable but not with Fitness/experience Training and experience to carry your gear. Prior a heavy pack. Prior experience advisable depending on trek. level experience advisable. sometimes necessary. Amount of time to Short – a few hours Medium – a organise the trek in Long – at least three days to 1 day couple of days Kathmandu

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Get trekking! There are hundreds of trekking route 2. PHOKSUMDO LAKE permutations in Nepal and each has Arguably the most stunningly beauti- a distinctly different character as the ful lake in the Himalaya, Phoksumdo, seasons change. Here we provide an lies on the border between Upper and overview of some of the most popular Lower Dolpo. Combined with a trek introductory treks. over the Kagmara La and perhaps link- ing to Jumla, this whole region should 1. RARA LAKE AND KHAPTAD be high on everyone’s bucket list. NATIONAL PARKS In the far-west of Nepal are two of the Best time to visit: all year round but countries smallest and post picturesque views are best October to May National Parks, Rara Lake and Khaptad. Environment: mid to high Himalaya Both offer easy trails through an ideal Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, mix of delightful villages and old-growth homestays or camping forests teeming with birdlife. For those Duration: 8-18 days with a little extra time join the two parks Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking together by following an ancient trade Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the route. Great Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011

Best time to visit: all year round, but 3. MUSTANG CIRCUIT best views November to April The ‘Forbidden Kingdom’ is a time- Environment: sub-tropical to mid-hills less place, where a vibrant traditional Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, culture combines with the desola- homestays or camping tion of the Tibetan plateau. One of Duration: 5-16 days Nepal’s most impressive mountain Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking festivals, Teeji, is held in Lo Manthang, Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great Mustang’s capital on the ‘Plane of Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 Aspirations’.

48 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Best time to visit: March to Novem- Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great time to chat to the locals and hear tales ber, but Teeji is around the May-June Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 of foreign service from the older fellows full moon in town. Can connect with Annapurna Environment: high Himalaya 5. NAAR AND PHU Circuit or Base Camp trails. Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, Get away from the crowds of the An- homestays or camping napurna Circuit by slipping between the Best time to visit: all year round, but Duration: 10 days near vertical gorge walls at Koto and into best views in October to December Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking the valleys of Naar and Phu. You are Environment: sub-tropical to mid-hills Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great guaranteed an authentic experience in these Facilities: homestay, local lodges or Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 communities, which are proud of their teahouses traditions and heritage. Tackle the Kang La Duration: 4-5 days 4. ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP AND for unsurpassed Annapurna range views. Diffi culty: easy to moderate KOPRA RIDGE Guidebook: The Gurung Heritage Trail, The trek to Annapurna Base Camp is Best time to visit: March to December, Himalaya Map House, 2011 along a classic trail that hasn’t suffered best views October to December from over-development, and when Environment: mid to high Himalaya 7. MANASLU CIRCUIT AND TSUM combined with a side trip to the Kopra Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, home- VALLEY ridge is the equal of any trek in Nepal. stays or camping Perhaps the best general trek in Nepal, Community and private lodges make this Duration: 10-16 days the Manaslu Circuit has dramatically in- one of the most comfy treks around. Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking creased in popularity over the last three Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great years. Take your time and include a side Best time to visit: all year round, but Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 trip to the intriguing Tsum valley, which views are best November to March still sees precious few trekkers despite Environment: mid to high Himalaya 6. GURUNG HERITAGE TRAIL opening in 2004. Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, Pretty villages with wonderful views of homestays or camping the Annapurna ranges and enjoy some Best time to visit: March to January, but Duration: 10-18 days enchanting Gurung hospitality. The trail views are best November-December or Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking is little used by trekkers, so you will have visit when the fl owers are out in May-June

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 49 Environment: mid to high Himalaya Trek style: local lodges, teahouses or camp- ing Duration: 10-20 days Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011

8. CHEPANG HILLS This is a great trek if you want to get away from it all and experience some sub-tropical trekking. The Chepang were nomadic hunt- er-gatherers who have now taken up a more settled life. Combine it with a trip to nearby Chitwan National Park for wildlife spotting. Best time to visit: cool season from Octo- ber to February Environment: sub-tropical to mid-hills Facilities: teahouses or homestays Duration: 4-7days Diffi culty: easy Guidebook: The Chitwan Chepang Hills Trail, Himalaya Map House, 2011

9. TAMANG HERITAGE TRAIL Just over 6-hours drive from Kathmandu, the Tamang Heritage Trail offers wonderful views, plentiful spring fl owers, a large hot springs and the welcoming Tamang people. The THT is also home to many birds and animals, and has far less trekkers than the adjoining Langtang and Gosainkund treks. Best time to visit: all year round, but best views in October to April

50 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Environment: mid to high hills have some magnifi cent fl owers to enjoy, Boasting broad views of the Greater Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, all just a short distance from the city. Himalaya to the north and welcoming homestays or camping communities of the most endangered Duration: 5-8 days Best time to visit: Any time of year, but ethnic groups of Nepal. This trek is a Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking best views in October to April must for anyone interested in ancient Guidebook: The Tamang Heritage Trail, Environment: sub-tropical to mid-hills cultures. Himalaya Map House, 2011 Facilities: local lodges, teahouses, homestays or camping Best time to visit: all year round, but 10. GOSAINKUND TO LANGTANG VAL- Duration: 3-7 days best views in October to December LEY Diffi culty: easy Environment: sub-tropical to high hills Just to the north of the Kathmandu Guidebook: The Kathmandu Valley Rim Facilities: local lodges, teahouses, valley is the ancient pilgrimage and Beyond, Himalaya Map House, 2011 homestays or camping route to Gosainkund lakes through Duration: 5-7 days the diverse Helambu region. The 12. BHAIRAV KUND Diffi culty: easy intermingling of Bhotia, Tamang, One of Nepal’s stunningly beautiful Guidebook: The Indigenous Peoples Trail, Brahmin, Newari and Chhetri people sacred lakes, Bhairav Kund in the range Himalaya Map House, 2011 throughout the region is a wonder- above Kodari (Arniko Highway) is a ful example of Nepal’s harmonious must see! A pilgrimage site for both 14. KANCHENJUNGA BASE CAMP ethnic diversity. Hindus and Buddhists in monsoon, the Untouched eastern Nepal is dominated refl ection of Himalayan peaks touches by the third highest mountain in the Best time to visit: all year round, but the divine in all of us. Can be combined world, Kanchenjunga. A vast rhododen- views are best October to January with a thrilling bungy jump as well! dron, oak and pine forest surround the Environment: mid to high Himalaya massif where Limbu, Rai and Sherpa Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, Best time to visit: Any time of year, communities live in near idyllic valleys. homestays or camping but views are clearest from November Expect some trails to be rough since the Duration: 5-16 days to May earthquakes in 2011. Diffi culty: easy to moderate trekking Environment: mid-hills Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great Facilities: local lodges or camping Best time to visit: March to December, Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 Duration: 4-6 days but views are best October to December Diffi culty: moderate Environment: mid to high Himalaya 11. KATHMANDU VALLEY RIM Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great Trek style: local lodges, teahouses, Excellent for short trips away from town, Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 homestays or camping or when a bandha stops traffi c. You can Duration: 18-32 days climb the Shivapuri Ridge for magnifi cent 13. INDIGENOUS PEOPLES TRAIL Diffi culty: moderate trekking views of the valley below and the moun- This is a very culturally diverse trail Guidebook: Nepal: Trekking & the Great tains beyond. Phulchowki and Shivapuri that is rarely visited by any tourists. Himalaya Trail, Trailblazer, 2011 52 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Code of Conduct for Trekkers

Community Safety Environment

RESPECT CULTURES AND TRADI- BEWARE OF ALTITUDE SICKNESS TREAD SOFTLY TIONS Use the buddy system to watch for symp- Stick to trails and recognised camping Be a considerate guest, understand toms of altitude sickness. Make sure ev- areas. Avoid creating new tracks, or protocol, offer appropriate gifts when eryone remains fully hydrated by drinking damaging the environment in any way. necessary, ask before taking a photo, water throughout the day, everyday. Stay Follow the adage: take only photos and do not show affection in public, and together along the trail, and communicate leave only footprints. donations to gompas or shrines are ap- frequently with everyone. preciated. PACK IT IN, PACK IT OUT BE SAFE Avoid taking tins, glass, or plastic con- BENEFIT LOCAL COMMUNITIES, Carry an extensive fi rst-aid kit and know tainers and bags unless you plan to carry COMMERCIALLY AND SOCIALLY how to use it. Have multiple plans for them back to a major town. Wash away Share skills and experience, teach when emergency evacuation and designate from water sources, and always use lo- you can, offer a fair pay for services, decision makers. Leave your itinerary de- cal toilet facilities when available. Bury participate in activities. Do not encour- tails with someone responsible at home. all organic waste at least 30cm below age begging, publicly argue, drink exces- Beware of yaks and other animals on the ground and ideally 50m away from sively or fi ght. narrow trails! water sources.

ADOPT NEW CUSTOMS BE SELF-RELIANT CONSERVE NATURAL RESOURCES Do not wear tight or revealing clothing, Don’t assume you will receive help or as- What few resources there are belong by do not enter someone’s home unless sistance. Ensure your group has extensive right to the locals. Always ask permission invited, avoid touching people of the fi eld-craft and navigation skills. Research before using anything along the trail. It opposite sex, do not use your left hand thoroughly, is your route appropriate for is illegal to disturb wildlife, to remove to eat or pass objects and try to learn as your party? Do you have the necessary animals or plants, or to buy wildlife much of the local language as possible. skills, experience, resources and equipment? products. ■ In the Beginning- Trekking Nepal Someone once said (or should have) that life is one great, long trek, up and down, in fi ts and starts, up many valleys and over many ridgelines, with destinations looming on the horizon (often high atop the next hill!), destinations that when fi nally arrived at are often the inspiration or start of another trek. Text By DON MESSERSCHMIDT, Photos By ROBIN BOUSTEAD

54 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np WHAT’S A ‘TREK’? improved trails and bad bridges, early The term ‘trek’ derives from the South trekkers in Nepal had to be ‘tough’. African Boer (Dutch) word ‘trekken’ In the beginning, we lived off the land Wmeaning ‘to pull’ or ‘to travel by ox- and either camped out in tents carried by wagon’. Today, however, trekking has porters (or “coolies” as they were some- become a state of mind most commonly times called), or slept on house porches. defi ned as a long, arduous journey or ex- Occasionally we found someone selling pedition, for adventure and enjoyment, tea (coffee was unheard of). If we drank on foot, in the mountains; especially in tea black without milk it was free. The the Himalayas. earliest inns were called ‘bhattis’, small One of the fi rst times I wrote about and temporary (in winter), serving good Himalayan trekking as a relatively ‘new’ food and giving travelers a place on the adventure sport, almost half a century fl oor to sleep out of the weather. ago, I started with this lead: Food was inexpensive then (not now), “Trek across Nepal to Everest base camp but the choice was limited to ‘daal-bhaat’ Cut through the great Himalaya to the (lentils and rice) with a spicy veg curry. threshold of Tibet A complete meal in 1964 cost ‘tin mohar’ Drink salt-butter tea and yak milk (1½ rupees; about 20¢), and for another You might even see the Abominable Snow- half rupee we got a meat curry, or an egg man! and a small glass of milk. It was well into “Is this idle talk? ...Dreams? ...Maybe, the 1970s before trailside menus began but fully possible. You can do and see all featuring exotic fare like muesli, apple these things and more (except, perhaps, pancakes, lasagna and chocolate cake. the Snowman) trekking in Nepal. During A popular drink in the inns was a mild the past [few] years, Nepal has opened to millet wine called ‘daru’, served warm. the outside world. Now, as never before, It tastes like Japanese sake. Among the you can visit this landlocked kingdom of customers were Gurkha soldiers on Hindus, Buddhist, Sherpas and fabulous month to EBC and back with 19 clients, leave, civil servants on assignment and, mountains. You can trek, photograph, all Americans, supported by several occasionally, foreigners on an adventure. and camp in the heart of the Himalaya dozen porters. The Thak Khola trip A night’s stay was free; we paid only for among the world’s highest, most rugged was shorter, walking from Pokhara and food and drink. Today, nothing is free on peaks...” (Summit magazine, March 1968) back (there was no road and no airport trek; everything has a price. Although a bit naïve from today’s to Jomsom then). In the early 1960s I usually trekked al- perspective, those few lines from 1968 The decade of the 1960s was a time pine style, carrying my own gear, without were among the fi rst to encourage adven- before today’s big dollar trekking infra- porters. But when I needed one, the daily turers worldwide to consider visiting the structure was in place. Trekking agencies rate was ‘saadhé saat rupiyaã, sukha’ (liter- Nepal Himalaya. The trekking industry and guide services were in their infancy, ally ‘7½ rupees, dry’, meaning that the has come a long ways since then. and there were few of the hotels and tea porter supplied his own food). That was I called my 1968 article ‘How to trek shops that are now ubiquitous. Nor were the equivalent of $1/day, already over in Nepal’, the fourth in series of stories there many of the ‘comfort resources’ three times what the early British trek- about Nepal published in Summit: A that today’s trekkers expect, like solar kers paid their porters a decade earlier, Mountaineering Magazine (USA). ‘How to showers, soft drinks and bottled beer, but considerably less than you pay now trek’ gave advice about opportunities fancy menus with European cuisine, and when a porter’s wage may go as high as for hiking northwest of Pokhara, east to soft beds. It was also well before much of a thousand rupees (about $12 per day). EBC (Everest Base Camp), and to a few today’s sophisticated gear was invented. other destinations. Nobody trekked with carbon-cork- STRANGERS ON THE TRAILS Later in the year I led two commercial elliptical-spring-fi tted-shock-absorbent Back then, foreign trekkers were exotic treks for Mountain Travel, Nepal’s fi rst trekking poles, nor with self-infl ating strangers. We were often stared at, and trekking agency. One was to EBC and sleeping mattresses, for example. With sometimes deserved it. Stephen Bez- the other to Thak Khola in Mustang so little in the way of services and fancy ruchka recalls his cultural insensitivity District. We tent-camped for most of a (expensive) equipment, and given un- when he and his wife fi rst came to Nepal

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 55 in 1969. “In the hot lowlands Lois would soon became “accustomed to the sudden Kelty was the pioneer inventor. His in- trek wearing really short shorts. I cringe halt of an approaching [local] traveler, novative design dates to 1951 when he thinking of a photo of her dressed that his dropped jaw and fi xed stare as we and a hiking companion decided to shift way eating Indian peanut butter out of a passed, repeated a hundred times a day.” the weight of the back load from the metal can, one of those treats we ‘sahib’s’ The stranger-as-curiosity effect lasted shoulders to the hips. “In order to do enjoyed...” The only other foreigners well into the 1960s, when I fi rst trekked this,” we are told, “they had to skid the they met were missionary women in in the central hills as a Peace Corps vol- ends of their pack boards into the rear long skirts. “We even joked how funny unteer. In every village I was typically as- pockets of their jeans. This was when they looked!” sailed by inquisitive youngsters, and when both of them realized that this is a much That was then. He jokes no more. I stopped for the night I was inevitably easier and comfortable way of carrying a Bezruchka, a medical doctor, now ad- overwhelmed by their infectious curiosity. load.” Trying to stuff the wooden pack vises foreigners to behave appropriately, They were typically wide-eyed with won- frames into back pockets inspired Kelty dress modestly and trek safely in his der when I told them that my soft sleeping to invent a hip belt. Then he replaced the comprehensive and popular ‘Trekking bag was fi lled with “hãns ko pwãkh” (duck wood frame with light aluminum tubing, Nepal: A Traveler’s Guide’, now in its 8th down) and the pad with “phĩj” (foam). the canvas bag with rip-stop nylon, and edition. That I spoke Nepali, however, didn’t the rest is history... When the British mountaineer Bill faze them, for didn’t everyone? But that I Dick Kelty once told me that he kept Tilman fi rst trekked in Helambu, north spoke English; now that was something I a photo under the glass on his offi ce desk of Kathmandu, he encountered villag- could help them with. I remember drilling — of me with my Kelty Pack on trek in ers who simply could not refrain “from children to pronounce ‘school’ as ‘skool’, the Himalayas. putting their heads inside my tent very not ‘ee-skool’ or ‘see-kool’. The ‘sch’ conso- soon after our arrival...” He wrote about nant cluster stymied them! FLIMSY FOOTWEAR it in his 1952 book, ‘Nepal Himalaya’. An- In 1953 the British journalist Ralph Iz- other Brit, Showell Styles, in his book The THE FIRST MODERN BACKPACKS zard, who worked in Asia and wrote for Moated Mountain (1954), describes trek- When we early Peace Corps volunteers the ‘Daily Mail’, was assigned to accom- king from Trisuli to Gorkha across the arrived in country we were issued a pany that year’s British Expedition to Mt mid-hills where he and his companions ‘Trapper Nelson’ wood-frame pack- Everest. In his 1954 book ‘An Innocent of board with a stiff canvas bag — clumsy, Everest’, Izzard describes going shopping uncomfortable and heavy (9 lbs., empty). for suitable footwear in New Delhi. But Bill Tilman once described them as because there were no mountaineering “massive structures of the Yukon type, stores or trekking outfi tters in India (or built evidently for professional packers, Nepal) in those days, he had a problem. old timers, ‘forty-niners’, and such like, “Climbing, or even stout walking boots men who could ‘take it’ in every sense.” were out of the question,” he wrote. “Be- After a few months my Peace Corps ing a large-footed man in a neat-footed buddy Bruce Morrison and I could ‘take nation I could fi nd no boot or shoe to it’ no longer, so we sent off for modern fi t me in any shape or form except a lightweight aluminum and nylon back- single pair of sneakers or tennis shoes in packs from a California outfi tter named a Bata store.” He bought them to wear Dick Kelty. And soon, after bragging around camp, “but in the end,” he says about our Keltys, the Peace Corps began “I marched nearly 400 miles in them over ordering them for other volunteers. the roughest possible going before fi nally Today there are many brands of throwing them away (they were retrieved backpacks on the market, but outdoor by one of my coolies who is probably sport historians remind us that Dick still wearing them).” With so little in the way of services and fancy equipment, given unimproved trails and bad bridges, early trekkers in Nepal had to be ‘tough’.

56 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np A decade later when I needed trekking They were typically wide-eyed with wonder when shoes, I went to the old Bata shoe store on New Road in downtown Kathmandu I told them that my soft sleeping bag was filled where I, too, encountered the problem of size. The best I could fi nd was a small with “hãns ko pwãkh” (duck down)… pair of light rubber and canvas Indian ‘jungle boots’. To free up my cramped who roamed the eastern hills in 1850; sa to Nepal, descended the dangerous feet, I cut away some of the rubber toe to the English adventurer Douglas track down the Bhoté Kosi to Kodari, cap, then wore the ugly green things for Freshfi eld and the Italian photographer then transited through Kathmandu on many miles like open-toed sandals. Vittorio Sella who were the fi rst to cir- their way to India. When ‘Vibram’ soled boots became cumambulate Kangchenjunga in 1899; DEATH DROPS available, they were an instant hit for and to the 14 Indians from the Survey Well before modern trail repairs and trekkers and mountaineers. “For rough of India who mapped virtually the whole road-building, some of the original walking,” wrote Bill Tilman, who fi rst of Nepal in 1924-1927 for the British old bridges and riverside tracks were used them in the early 1950s, “the ‘Vi- colonials in Delhi. quite terrifying. While traveling from bram’ soled boot is more comfortable Even earlier, in the late 1800s, other Kathmandu west to Pokhara in the early than the nailed. It is supreme for that Indian surveyors, the so-called ‘pundits’ 1960s, a Gurkha Army offi cer named everyday Himalayan pastime of boulder- on special assignments, trekked through Duncan Forbes and his porter Manba- hopping (provided the boulders are dry), the Himalayas to Tibet as spies for the hadur confronted a dangerous crossing and is generally suitable for climbing ex- British in the ‘Great Game’ that pitted in Gorkha District. Forbes wrote about cept on wet rock, wet ice, or fresh snow China, Russia and England against one it in his 1964 book ‘Johnny Gurkha’. Near on rock. It is a matter of taste.” another for control and infl uence in this part of Asia. Bill Tilman has described Arughat bazaar they received “a shock” EARLY TREKS AND TREKKERS OF one of them, known only as ‘M.H.’, while crossing the Maudi Khola. The NOTE “who in 1885 traveled up the valley of narrow gorge, he says, “was spanned Neither the early Peace Corps volunteers the Dudh Kosi west of Everest to Tingri by so crazy and dilapidated a bridge of the 1960s nor the British adventurers in Tibet, whence he returned to India by that I found Manbahadur, who was of the early 1950s were the fi rst foreign- Kyerong and Trisuli valley, thus travers- ahead of me for once, standing fac- ers to trek in Nepal, of course. That ing Nepal twice.” And before them, as ing it like a horse refusing a jump.” It distinction goes to others, like Joseph early as 1628 AD, intrepid and stalwart was a cantilever bridge (common then, Dalton Hooker, the English botanist Catholic missionaries trekked from Lha- but only rarely seen today) locally built with “baulks of timber anchored with rocks at one end. Each level of timbers overlapped the course on which it rested and stretched out further towards the middle. The gap in the middle was spanned by more planks. The whole thing had slipped at one end and was twisted and leaning at such an angle that it look as though it might collapse at any

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 57 The whole thing had slipped at one end and was explained later in his dry style of humor why they failed to make the summit, twisted and leaning at such an angle that it look attributing it simply to an “inability to reach the top.” Okay. But more to the as though it might collapse at any moment. point, to get there and back Tilman and his companions had to trek, hard, for moment. The fl imsy wooden handrail gist, David Snellgrove, out west on his weeks. While in Manang District, they was so loose that to hang on to it would seven-month 1954 trek through the high were the fi rst foreigners to Nar and Phu, have been fatal.” Himalayas. and the fi rst to trek much of what is now “I looked below into the river bed,” the well known Annapurna Circuit route. Forbes wrote. “There, at the bottom NEPAL’S FIRST TREKKING AGENCY Jimmy Roberts fell in love with Ne- of the death drop, people were uncon- In my 1968 ‘How to trek’ article I in- pal on that trip, and returned often. For cernedly washing themselves and their troduced readers to the group trekking awhile, he served as Military Attaché at clothes. I looked across the gimcrack services of Col. J.O.M. ‘Jimmy’ Roberts, the British Embassy in Kathmandu. Af- structure at the cliff on the other side, Nepal’s trek agency pioneer. As a Gurkha ter retiring from the Gurkhas, he stayed and balancing precariously I crept across. offi cer in India, Roberts had plenty of on as a civilian, and in 1964 he founded Manbahadur fatalistically followed.” experience rambling through the Indian Nepal’s fi rst trekking agency: Mountain On the far side someone told them Himalayas. Then, in 1950, he became Travel. It was the start of a long walk to that a few weeks earlier a man had fallen one of the fi rst modern Brits to trek and what has become a booming adventure off the broken bridge to his death. climb west of Kathmandu. travel industry. (The original Mountain Even more fearsome were tracks that In those days mountaineering expe- Travel is now part of the Tiger Mountain crossed sheer cliff faces along some of ditions necessitated some very serious group.) Nepal’s wildest river gorges. When my trekking. In June 1950, for example, “Beginnings were modest...,” Roberts companion Bruce and I came down the while the French expedition led by wrote in a rambling, undated essay on Marsiangdi river track from Manang to Maurice Herzog was making history on ‘How it All Began’. He recalled “sketch- Lamjung District in 1964, we crossed Annapurna-I (8,091 m/26,545 ft), Bill ing out a plan to provide for no less than several cliffs on narrow wooden planks Tilman, Jimmy Roberts and two other 8 trekkers in the fi eld at one time. I would laid atop posts driven horizontally into Brits were on their way up a nearby but have 8 bags, 8 pads, 8 this, and 8 that. I cracks in the rock face. Earlier, in 1950, lesser peak called Annapurna-IV (7,525 wrote down 8 tents, scratched out the 8 after Bill Tilman had come up the gorge m) from the north, Manang side. Tilman and wrote 4 – let ‘em share...” He soon he wrote that “...the builders of the road tossed out the whole idea of limiting had exercised boldness and ingenuity, group size to eight. stringing wooden galleries across the His initial advertisement in ‘Holiday’ face. Such structures, known as ‘parri’..., magazine brought only fi ve inquiries, but were pretty frail, particularly the hand- it was a start. “My fi rst clients came to rails which were better left alone or at the do an Everest trek in the early spring of most touched rather than grasped. They 1965,” he wrote. “There was a story in were seldom wider than a single plank circulation a year or two later that these and were reached by a stone staircase were ‘three American grandmothers.’ In or up-ended logs with footholds cut in fact, a more sporting trio of enthusiastic them. When the river was low many of and appreciative ladies I have never since these cat-walks could be avoided by a handled”. little boulder-hopping in the river bed. In Three years later when I led the two the rains the traveler has no choice. He Mountain Travel treks, we stayed the must then mind his step...,” he concluded fi rst few nights in the old Royal Hotel with understatement. on Kantipath (it now houses Election The Swiss geologist Toni Hagen, an- Commission). The Royal gave us a taste other early trek pioneer from the 1950s, of historical panache. I remember Col. encountered similar perilous crossings Roberts introducing the proprietor, jo- on cliffs along the Arun river gorge vial Boris Lissanevitch, who entertained in eastern Nepal. So did the Tibetolo- us each evening with his stories and jokes

58 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np For guides, cooks and kitchen boys, Roberts favored employing Sherpas, the indigenous residents of the Mount Everest region. “Sherpas,” he said, “give trekking agents in Nepal a most unfair advantage over their counterparts in other parts of the Himalaya. I cannot hide the truth – I love them. And at times they drive me stark staring mad.” Over time ‘Sherpa’ has taken on other meanings. Now any trip guide or porter may be called a Sherpa, whether he actu- ally is one or not. And because Sherpas are world renowned for their skills in guiding clients to summits, it is no won- der that in some diplomatic and political circles (and based on a pun) someone who assists offi cials or delegates at ‘sum- mit meetings’ and conferences is now known as a ‘Sherpa’. The notion of ‘trekking’, itself, has also changed — it has “morphed into a travel experience that now uses resources while mixing drinks and ‘rubbing elbows’ and not dependent on local resources.” along the travelers’ route and is no longer with the Kathmandu elite in the hotel’s It’s a style of trekking that carries “all a self-supported near-wilderness activ- rustic Yak-&-Yeti Bar. the resources needed to complete the ity,” says Bennan. Eventually, as guest Roberts’ approach to running treks journey and handle any kind of weather houses and tea houses began to spring was simple: “We try and give you all the or trail condition.” In Jimmy Roberts’ up on the main trails, ‘teahouse trek- ingredients of enjoyment, with Sherpas day, since there were few places to stay king’ became fashionable, alone or in who look after you, but who do not in the hinterland, he outfi tted his trips a small group, with or without porters, intrude. The fi nal, total experience re- with enough gear – tents, stove, food, following a popular route, and relying mains yours to create, and to enjoy to full utensils, and fuel – and enough support on trailside accommodations for meals without organizational worries or dis- staff and porters (or pack animals) to be and overnight stays. Both expedition tractions. Stated simply, I would say we independent; or as Brennan puts it, with and teahouse trekking remain immensely are trying to show you the mountains of enough staff “to go the distance.” popular today. ■ Nepal, its valleys and villages and people, under the best possible conditions, but without shielding you from reality.” The author is a contributing editor and frequent writer for ECS Nepal. He can be contacted at don.editor@ gmail.com. As business prospered Roberts hired For this story he has borrowed stories, quotes and insights from many sources, including Tilman’s ‘Nepal Dawa Norbu Sherpa and another ex- Himalaya’ (1952), Styles’ ‘The Moated Mountain’ (1954), Izzard’s ‘An Innocent on Everest’ (1954), and Gurkha, Mike Cheney, to assist him, Forbes’ ‘Johnny Gurkha’ (1964). On early treks (for comparative purposes) see Hooker’s ‘Himalayan Journals’ (1855), Freshfield’s ‘Round Kangchenjunga’ (1903), Snellgrove’s ‘Himalayan Pilgrimage’ two names that “are inseparable with the (1961) and Hagen’s ‘Nepal Himalaya’ (1961). The list is by no means exhaustive. story of the development of Mountain The Jimmy Roberts/Mountain Travel story is best told in Roberts’ unpublished essay ‘How it all began’, Travel,” he later said. quoted here. See also ‘Soul of a mountain man’ in ‘Action Asia’ (Oct/Nov 1999; www.actionasia.com). Dick Kelty’s role in the history of backpacking is told in ‘Backpack History – How and when did they come Mountain Travel promoted ‘expedi- into being?’ online at www.fabric-and-handle.com (> Articles > Backpack History), posted September 13, tion trekking’, a notion that Roberts 2011. For other insights on ‘trek-trekker-trekking’ the observations of Rusty Brennan (of riadventuretravel. never fully defi ned. Rusty Brennan, who com), Steve Bezruchka, Robin Marston and other correspondents and friends (and early trekkers) are acknowledged with thanks. operates a company called Ri Adventure At the start of adventure trekking in 1952, Bill Tilman called Nepal “the largest inhabited country still un- Travel and knows the system well, is explored by Europeans.” Now, after 60 years, Tilman’s “unknown Nepal” — unknown to outsiders, that more explicit. Expedition trekking, he is — is firmly ‘on the map’, so to speak, and there is very little of the Nepal Himalaya that has not been trekked by Nepalese and foreigners alike. says, “is group travel, fully supported

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 59 Mountain Tourism and the threat of Extreme Weather

It’s not the most immediate concern for Nepalese tourism yet, but global warming is already making its presence felt.

Text & Photos By KASHISH DAS SHRESTHA

60 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np he majesty of the Himalayas: to For tourists, concerns about accessibility breathe its crisp air and stare at its imposing jagged silhouette and safety, and the time needed to travel against an infi nite clear blue sky isT nothing short of awe-inspiring. Get- could all be major factors to shape their ting there, however, has never been easy. decision of traveling to the Himalayas. Even today, with airport access and availability of modern amenities, the Himalayas remain a relatively diffi cult issue of the melting glaciers and snow- delays that could grow more common and region to reach and navigate, demand- caps are naturally the fi rst things that longer than they already are. A weeklong ing a mix of determination and passion, might come to mind. While those will flight cancellation prompted by poor and time and commitment. have devastating implications in Nepal weather conditions in November 2011 For Nepal, mountain tourism has been and beyond, how could this have a direct created a massive international public rela- a steadily growing and signifi cant economic effect specifi cally in people’s interest in tions disaster for Nepal’s tourism. It also sector for over half a century. The moun- visiting the region? Unlike mountain created a logistical and fi nancial nightmare tains themselves have become the national tourism in the west where snow is a pre- for the tourists who had to reschedule mascot for all things climate change, except requisite for its ski-oriented attractions, their international fl ights and miss work- perhaps in the context of tourism itself. tourists are drawn to Nepal’s mountains days–not the kind of ending one looks for And so, just how might climate change for its terrain, the adventure and the in a vacation. Considering the regularity affect mountain tourism in Nepal? sheer size and scale of the Himalayas, as with which these delays take place every While it is impossible to come up well as the culture of the region – with season it would naturally be wise for any with a defi nite answer to that question, or without the snow. tourist to keep at least a couple of days several possibilities can be outlined The decision to visit the region, open between one’s visit to the Himalayas based on available scientifi c data. The however, could be tested more by fl ight and the international fl ight back to their

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 61 For tourists, concerns about accessibility and safety, and the time needed to travel could all be major factors to shape their decision of traveling to the Himalayas. country of origin. Still, climate change induced growing extremities of weather will be no friend of tourism in Nepal in this particular context. “A changing climate leads to changes in the frequency, intensity, spatial extent, dura- tion, and timing of extreme weather and cli- mate events, and can result in unprecedented extreme weather and climate events,” the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change noted in their paper ‘Managing the Risks of Extreme Events and Disasters to Advance Climate Change Adaptation’ last year. The paper adds: “There is high confi - dence that changes in heat waves, glacial retreat and/or permafrost degradation will affect high mountain phenomena such as slope instabilities, movements of mass, and glacial lake outburst fl oods. There is also high confi dence that changes in heavy precipita- tion will affect landslides in some regions.” will shape their decision of traveling to there can be little or no excuse for the lack That latter analysis affects not just the Himalayas in Nepal. For business of allotting immediate and massive invest- mountain tourism but also Nepal’s high- owners, they will probably see a rise in ment in critical infrastructure development way oriented trips to destinations like costs of running their businesses while across the country. Failing to do so could the Chitwan National Park or Pokhara experiencing a possible dip in tourist cost the country dearly. The mountains and the regions around it, as well as river arrivals and cancellations of bookings may continue to stand, but the tourism based tourism. related to weather issues. sector could be severely crippled. ■ For tourists, concerns about acces- It has been well established that Nepal sibility (and evacuation), safety while is nowhere close to being responsible You can contact the author and photographer in the region, and the time needed to for global warming. However, in light of at [email protected] and follow him on travel could all be major factors that growing scientifi c information on the issue, Twitter @kashishds.

62 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

Meet the Everests The descendants of George Everest trek to the Everest Base Camp Text By LIZBETH LUCKSOM ECS Media

inoy and his ‘Alps In Nepal’ team they are the descendants of the Welsh THE FAMILY TREE were thrilled when they heard explorer and surveyor, George Everest. The word ‘Everest’ is synonymous with back from Ruth confi rming their I met up with Nicholas Everest his wife the famous climb made by New Zealander trip to Nepal. Nicholas Everest Ruth, son Joshua and daughter Sophie Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Mountaineer andB his family were visiting Nepal for Martin after they made their historic Tenzing Norgay. However, very few know the fi rst time. Now what would excite trip to Everest Base camp. I was rather the actual history behind the global name. them so much about a trip they’d made curious to know about the family name While most of us would rather not delve a number of times before? Well, no they proudly carried and about their re- into the nitty-gritty of things that hap- doubt it’s the last name that stands out so lationship to the famous British surveyor pened hundreds of years ago, there are prominently and more so of the fact that and geographer. others who would think quite the contrary.

64 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np George Everest was the son of Three other family names get involved Ruth is married to the family and has Tristram Everest of Gwerndale, Brec- through various marriages, for example always been fascinated by their family knockshire, and was born on the 4th of Temple, Chevallier and Martin”. Bina name and the fact that the world’s most July 1790. He mapped the subcontinent Elizabeth Martin, apparently Nicholas’s spectacular mountain was named after from Cape Comorin in the South to father’s second cousin, published a book Nicholas’s own ancestor was something the northern foothills of the Himalayas named Parsons and Prisons-Temple Chevallier she could not fathom. She always dreamt during the times when he was working Martin-1842-1933. Ruth told me it took of visiting Nepal and making it to base on the Great Trigonometrical Survey of her approximately 20 years to research camp. Finally, sitting in a roof top cafe in India. George had four daughters and and compile the book, which was pub- Kathmandu in November 2009, decided two sons. Two of his daughters died lished for private circulation amongst she would turn her dream into reality. She very young while gave up their name their family members. When I enquired returned to Taipei where she is working after getting married. Of his two sons, about Nicholas’s forefathers looking at at Taipei European School and started only one had a son, and he didn’t have the family tree spread out over nearly planning for her trip to Nepal seriously. any sons himself, so Everest’s direct three pages, Ruth tried her best to re- line came to an end. However, he had trace those lines that linked them to the NAMESAKE four brothers - John, Robert, Thomas Everest clan, even though it was really Eve rest, in two syllables is the exact and Charles and a sister. This is what diffi cult with so many family names and pronunciation used by George Everest Ruth had to say about their family line- hundreds of years in between. and not the one that is more common to “Nick’s father said it was not through one of the brothers that our ancestry lies, but George’s cousin who was called Finally, sitting in a roof top cafe in Kathmandu John Everest from Greenwich. There are about four family trees involved in in November 2009, decided she would turn her the ancestry, and even with all four, it dream into reality. is almost impossible to follow the links.

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 65 strumental in redesigning the equipment when he was working as a surveyor in In- dia. Before it got its actual name, Everest was otherwise known as Sagarmatha, and by it’s offi cial name given by the Nepal- ese government, Chomolungma. The latter is recognized by Tibetans while the British were comfortable with Peak XV. It was offi cially christened by the Royal Geographical Society in the year 1865 when it’s height of 29,002 ft (8,840 m) was fi rst published. Andrew Waugh, the then British Surveyor General of India recommended this name in honour of his predecessor George Everest. The former chief apparently never wanted Before it got its actual name, Everest was otherwise his name to be incorporated as the name of the world’s highest and most captivat- known as Sagarmatha, and by it’s official name ing mountain. His plea seemed to have fallen on deaf ears as that name has given by the Nepalese government, Chomolungma. now become a household word among nations as Waugh hoped it would be. us. The fact that George Everest never the lack of good equipment during those After more than a century, the descen- actually saw the tallest mountain was times. The equipment used in those dants of George Everest visited Nepal confi rmed by the the family. Nicholas days was heavy and clumsy even though and although they couldn’t make it to feels that the reason could be because of George Everest was undoubtedly in- the actual summit, they made it to the

66 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np base camp which was quite an achieve- ment for them because they didn’t seem like the typical adventurous lot. Prior to their arrival, Ruth had done quite a bit of research on Kathmandu, unlike her kids who were a bit apprehensive about the trip. “We knew so little about the Hima- layas before the trip, so we also found it fascinating, fi nding out about the culture and the way the people live their lives. Living a culture is always the best way to fi nd out about it, and we all enjoyed this very much,” added Ruth. When her dream was fi nally realised, she had a personal, tearful moment of her own at the base camp. She had been successful in trying to unite the family through this trip. “We’ve always been a close family, but it was nice being together for two weeks sharing such We arrived in heavy rain and cloud, but when we woke a fantastic experience. One of the things in the morning and pulled back our bedroom curtains, that stuck to our minds was waking up in Namche Bazaar. We arrived in heavy we all went ‘wow’ - how amazing is this scenery. rain and cloud, but when we woke in the morning and pulled back our bedroom Everest family were simply overwhelmed about what the name could-have-been curtains, we all went ‘wow’ - how amazing and overjoyed at the kind of services they or should-have-been, the sight of the is this scenery. We continued to say ‘wow’ received during their brief stay in Nepal. mountain still takes the breath away of about the stunning surroundings for the Their visit according to them exceeded all all trekkers who travel halfway around rest of the trip. Seeing Mount Everest expectations and whatever reservations the world just to experience that ‘wow’ for the first time was also amazing”. they had had before they arrived in Nepal, factor. The Everests are likely back to Josh reiterates, “With the crisp blue sky totally changed by the end of the journey their daily lives now, but I bet their trip and a massive mountain in front of us, and they hoped to make a second trip in to Nepal and the trek to the base camp everyday was wow”. For Nicholas it was the near future. is something that they will cherish for more of a ‘laughter trip’ where they had the rest of their lives and and that this a fun time with the family, sharing jokes MEMORY REMAINS story will be handed down for genera- during those long tiring walks or sipping The base camp was the fi nal destination tions to come. „ a cup of tea in cosy hotel cafes. Binoy and for the Everests but even at that height his team went over the top, designing a and just a glimpse of the peak changed Binoy Rai is the Managing Director of Alps in banner and a T-shirt for them. The ban- everything for them. No matter how Nepal Trekking Pvt.Ltd, Golfutar and can be ner was unveiled at the base camp, which hard Ruth tries to unravel the ancestry reached at 9841541355/4374908,email- [email protected] read- “To Everest with the Everests”. The linkage and despite the age old debate HINDSIGHT Excerpts from Nepal Journal, 1964 TREKKING IN EAST NEPAL This story takes place along the Arun River just south of Tumlingtar. We were trekking the road [a foot track or trail] from Dingla in the northern part of our district to Chainpur. Text By LARRY DALOZ

SEPTEMBER, 1964 …we’d had very little to eat the night before and We spent the night on a large, fl at part Sof the Arun fl ood plain. Walking to get were clearly in the advanced stages of starvation. water that evening, I suddenly became aware of a curious feeling, familiar, but almost forgotten. It was in my feet, it was joined by another, then another. the river. We paid our paise and before the way they seemed almost to slap the But to our consternation, they all led long were climbing back up the opposite ground. I realized with a jolt that this was back up the mountainside. Perhaps we bank heading for Chainpur, a day late. the fi rst time I had walked any distance could fi nd a house and ask? For now As it grew dark, two Kamis [Black- on level ground for over two weeks. It there was nothing for it but to head up smiths] met us and invited us to stay in had been a long time! the Dingla hill. The road climbed merci- their house just above. They promised The next morning we were off for the lessly upward for over an hour and still they’d feed us royally. When we took ghat [river bank] several miles upstream no house. We had hoped we might get all them up on it, they were stunned. It where we would be able to take a dugout the way to Chainpur that day but clearly had been a formality only, it seemed, canoe across the river. The road, we were that was not to be. Moreover, we’d had but they were willing to go ahead with it, assured, was easy, running along the river very little to eat the night before and and we were in no condition to refuse. bank all the way. were clearly in the advanced stages of Their house was pretty stark, the meal So there we were, gaily chugging starvation. Where the road was taking was mostly millet, sticky and barely along, ducking huge spiderwebs and us was anybody’s guess. We know only palatable, but the location was extraor- slapping their giant architects from that it was leading in exactly the wrong dinary—set against the steep hillside our faces, when all at once the trail was direction and we were as stuck on it as high on the ridge above the river. And gone. Just petered out into so many cow a bum on an express freight. There was as the sun set, the far off clouds parted paths. By the time these faded out, we no bailing out. Finally, after another just enough to give us a glimpse of a were plunging pack-laden and headfi rst exhausting hour of climbing, a house jagged, white peak, a great fang, far through the jungle along a steep riv- appeared ahead. The ghar patti ama was above where anything solid ever had a erbank broken only by the occasional good to us and sold us enough cornmeal right to be. ■ tributary and paddy. No road anywhere. to revive us.

We kept on, knowing at least our direc- “Ama,” we asked, “Satya ghatko bato, khoi?” Laurent A. (‘Larry’) Daloz was a Peace Corps tion by the river o our right. We knew “Ghat, ni?” she asked. Then answered Volunteer in Nepal in 1963-65, doing rural develop- that eventually we’d have to hit the main herself, jutting her chin back down the way ment in the eastern hills. During his time in Nepal Larry kept a detailed journal, much of which is now road coming down fro Dingla to the we had come, “U tala. Tapaile aieko batoma, ta!” archived in the Returned Peace Corps Volunteer ghat. From time to time a path would We’d been in Nepal for long enough Collection at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library materialize, then fade away again. The by this time; there was no mistaking what and Museum in Boston, Massachusetts (USA). This short article is an excerpt from his ‘Nepal Journal’. whole business, climbing up and down she was telling us: back the way you came, After Peace Corps, Larry went on to become little cliffs covered with brush, slashing boys. It seemed one of those cow paths an adult educator, Associate Director of the through jungle, plodding through pad- we had scorned led to the ghat after all. Whidbey Institute, and author of several books including Mentor: Guiding the Journey of Adult dies was, to put it mildly, ugly. Hours later, exhausted and starv- Learners (1999) and Effective Teaching and Men- Finally, we found what seemed at ing, we fi nally stumbled out onto the toring: Realizing the Transformational Power of least a temporary path, though it seemed riverbank and the ghat. Amazingly, the Adult Learning Experiences (1986). Larry Daloz no more than a cow path. Before long ferry man was there and on our side of can be contacted at [email protected].

68 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

VISUAL STORY TELLING

When the road

breaksText & Photos by PAT KAUBA down or those of us from the west, the season’s damage, we had no choice but to road is not a new idea, the last walk the 100km to our destination of Jumla millennia has spun out countless Bazaar. Ironically, Jumla is the start of the roads to nameless places. Today ancient pilgrimage road to holy Mount Kai- Fthe concept has spread out across every lash in Tibet—and it was three districts away! inch of our planet. But what happens when the road breaks down, when you At first with apprehension we moved on, have to get out of the vehicle and walk? but soon we were mesmerized by the host of wonderful treats to spy, tiny ob- Last autumn it happened to my friend Amir jects and little moments that would have and I, we were in far-western Nepal and been lost to us, if we had hurtled along had a mission to accomplish, hunting for the mountain road by bus. Nepali jadibuti or medicinal herbs. So when the road broke down, due to the monsoon [email protected]

70 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 71 PICTURE PERFECT

72 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np AA portrayalportrayal ofof Photo by Niraj Karki

faithfaith andand devotiondevotionText by NIRAJ KARKI

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 73 PICTURE PERFECT Photo by Niraj Karki

or those who go beyond the ‘ultimate stoner’ image, stashes of marijuana (known also as ‘Shiva’s prasad there is an aura associated with Lord Shiva, some- which means religious gift), rolling joints and smoking thing mysterious, unknown but nevertheless ac- openly, and sometimes, very often with the thousands knowledged. In the month of Falgun, the fourteenth of people who become intense devotees of Shiva Fday of the waning moon marks a day that throughout time for a day. has remained unchanged in its spirit. The day -Shivaratri, or Away from the vicinity of Pashupati the infectious MahaShivaratri, which simply means ‘the night of Shiva’ is one spirit of Shivaratri is seen in the countless bonfi res of Nepal’s most celebrated and unique festivals. scattered across town. During the day children put up It happens in the temple of Pashupati. The queues temporary roadblocks collecting tolls to buy fi rewood start from around midnight the night before with and other goodies saying ‘Shiva Parvati lai jado bhayo’ tens of thousands of devotees who wait for hours to (Shiva and Parvati feel cold). enter the most sacred temple in Nepal. Many people Regardless of reasons, Pashupati at Shivaratri is fast the whole day and wash themselves in the river. magical. Crowd counts cross a hundred thousand. It Women following ‘Paravati’, pray for the well being of is a powerful event to witness, an intense portrayal of their husbands and sons while unmarried women pray faith and devotion at the same time coupled with untold for a husband like Shiva, considered the ideal husband. ‘trippy’ quirks that make the festival unique, special The time of Shivaratri also sees the much-antic- and anticipated in a country where many traditions are ipated arrival of ‘sadhus’ that are easily spotted with slowly being lost. ■

74 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Photo by Niraj Karki

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 75 PICTURE PERFECT Photo by Wallace Woon Photo by Wallace Woon

76 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np Photo by Wallace Woon Photo by Niraj Karki

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 77 Photo by Niraj Karki

78 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np PICTURE PERFECT Photo by Wallace Woon

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 79 The Nepali Way An ECS NEPAL photo competition People place is what it’s people make it. Rural or urban, developed or left behind, the identity, character and mood of a place is Ade fi ned by its people. Nepal’s wayward villages, teeming cities and everywhere in be- tween is special because of the colourful personalities that populate these places. The Nepali way is therefore most visible as it’s towering moun- tains and mighty rivers but in essence is about the Nepali people. ■

First Andree Mathieu Dongol Residence, Prasanti coloni marg, Sanepa Elders and local youth enjoying the afternoon sun and good conversation in Kathmandu Durbar Square, a World Heritage Site in the older part of the capital. Second Frances Klatzel PO Box 21415, Kathmandu The gods among us: Local devotees and locals dressed up as mythical deities at a cultural event.

Third Dr Sumit Bidari Kuleshwor Kathmandu A woman from Ghasa carries her goat to a veterinarian in Baglung, the nearest town.

CONSOLATION Krishna Khadka Jyamirgadhi - 3, Jhapa Timeless Play: children enjoying the drive on dry banana leaf in Jhapa

CONSOLATION Susan Lee Jhamsikhel-2, Patan Climbing mountains: Local children scale a towering wall to reach fl owers blooming on the other side of the wall.

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 81 Lobin Gurung SCC Kupondole An elderly passes by the Patan Dur- bar Square Museum, once the palace of the Malla kings of Nepal.

Abishek Shrestha SCC Kupondole A young, Nepali, music loving crowd puts their hands together at a musical program.

Nagina Shrestha SCC Kupondole A candid moment between an unidentifi ed mother and her daughter in Ason.

Gautam Bir Singh Tamrakar Tahachal Marg, Kathmandu Local girls enjoying a view of a relatively serene Trishuli river while their lovestock graze nearby on the lush hills.

Dr Sumit Bidari Kuleshwor Kathmandu Women and children tend to their crops in the arid land of Upper Mustang, previously known as the kingdom of Lo.

the NEPALI way Photo Contest

82 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

www.ecs.com.np CRAFT

86 CRAFT RIGHT NOW 88 REVIEWS: The fabric of history 90 CRAFT IT YOURSELF: The humble candle 92 ART SHOP: Newa Chhen Photo by Niraj Karki

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 85 CRAFT NEWS Australian Ambassador’s visit to Janakpur

here is a story in the village of of pottery,papier-mâché, mirrors, Kuwa in Janakpur – one that tells screen-printed fabrics and even t-shirts many other stories. Just 3 kilometers and bags. south of the town is an offi ce where There is a lot to the story of JWDC – it theT 39 women who work there really enjoy has touched and changed the lives of many going to. It is not however the serenity of women and their families for the better. It be- the place that draws them there - even gan with the purpose of empowering women though the complex really is serene - but through the practice of their traditional art and what the offi ce, the Janakpur Women’s it has done that quite well, enabling women to Development Centre (JWDC) has stood stand as earning family members in a society for and enabled the women there to do. where women who cycled were shunned. The JWDC was started in 1989 as the Jankpur women of JWDC today have done so much Women’s Art Project by Claire Burkert. Later more, some of them having travelled abroad in 1992, it was established as the JWDC after exhibiting their work in USA, UK, Belgium the Australian Embassy purchased the land and Germany. For those heading anywhere and constructed the artistic building where towards Janakpur, the JWDC is a must-visit, as the women work. The Australian embassy is is Janakpur itself. For those that sadly are not, still supporting the project and has donated there are places in Kathmandu such as Sana AUD 27,000 this year alone for the project. Hastakala and Mahaguthi where their works The Australian Ambassador to Nepal Susan of art are available. (Niraj Karki) Grace visits the place regularly supporting and encouraging the women. The Maithii form of art is an integral part of the lifestyle of the Maithili people. Passed down from one generation to the next, mothers to daughters, the women have always drawn stories and religious signs for occasions. Through the JWDC, the art form is now expressed as beautiful and intricately drawn paintings on mediums of Nepali paper while previously the art forms were drawn on walls alone. The women have now extended their range of mediums to beautiful works

86 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np CRAFT NEWS

Chitwan witnessed Ratnanagar Festival 2012

Ratnanagar Chamber of Commerce than 400 stalls. Local art and culture, lo- and Industries (RCCI) in collaboration cally produced handicrafts and electronic with Ratnanagar Municipality orga- products were exhibited at the stalls. nized ‘Ratnanagar Festival 2012’ in RCCI and Ratnanagar Municipality Chitwan from 11 January to 19 Janu- have been organizing the Ratnanagar ary focusing on Chitwan’s economic Festival every two years since 2001 possibilities, commercial agriculture, with government and private support. traditional and historic monuments. Rs. 30 was charged for the entry for nir The festival was held in Tikaulichaur of the locals while students were given a uve Sho o A House of Souvenirs p Ratnanagar Municipality-7 with more 50% discount on the entry fee. S

Decline in handicraft exports this fi scal year

Handicraft exports from Nepal have posted a significant decline of 41.7 percent during the initial three-month period of the current Nepali financial year that began on 16 July 2011. According to the data released by the Trade and Export Promotion Centre, Nepal exported handicrafts worth NPR 83 million during the first three months of 2011-2012, as against its exports of NPR 143.53 million recorded during the corresponding period of last fiscal year. Hand- knotted carpets, pashmina, ready- India, Bangladesh, Japan, China, Viet- made garments and leather products nam, Germany, France, Italy, Canada, were among the major export items to UAE, UK, and the US. Souvenir Shop provides ONE STOP SHOP for Souveniers varying from Mid-western Trade Fair in Nepalgunj home furnishing, block print suits, kurties, especiality of Nepal Nepalgunj hosted the Mid-western With 300 stalls displaying industrial, pashmina stoles, sweater etc. So Trade Fair from 10 February to 21 tourist, agricultural and handicrafts items, step in for something EXCLUSIVE. February organized by Nepalgunj the fair also featured promotional stalls Chamber of Commerce and In- of financial institutions. According to the dustries alongside Banke Tourism organizers the event carried out transac- Fair-2068. tions of around Rs. 40-45 million.

MoCS to recognize metal crafts among major exportables

The Ministry of Commerce and Supplies cell prepared the preliminary draft (MoCS) listed metal craft and garments including metals craft and garments made of natural fibers among the coun- from other natural fibers which are not try’s major exportable items by forming a currently in the list of the NTIS. *A sister concern of Exclusive Textile cell to study the issue and adding these Among the 19 exportable items in the NTIS two products to the list in response to dis- Opp. Fire & Ice, Tridevi Marg, Thamel, list, four products are from the handicraft content that they have not been included sector — silver jewelry, handmade paper, Kathmandu, Nepal. in the Nepal Trade Integration Strategy wool products and pashmina. Accord- Tel: 0977-1-4422483 (NTIS) 2010 as priority export items. ing to FHAN statistics for the first quarter, Mob: 00977-98020-13691 The NTIS cell in its preliminary draft goods made of fibres like felt, silk, cotton e-mail: [email protected] has included metal craft and garments and hemp accounted for over 20 percent in the list of exportable items. Accord- of handicraft export earnings. Metal craft ing to the Federation of Handicrafts accounted for 18.55 percent of the total Associations of Nepal (FHAN), the export earnings of Rs 1.18 billion. CRAFT REVIEWS The fabric of history Natural fi bers are not a new thing to Nepal but its usage is fi nding a renaissance. Text By PAT KAUBA

eople are becoming aware of the and internationally. clothes they wear and how they’re It’s a big dream for produced. Statistics for 2009 show Mr. Neupane as he that the world used 20% of its sees the potential as pesticidesP to protect cotton crops, which massive. ECS Media only produced 25% of the world’s fabric. Already his The same year synthetic fabrics accounted nettle-fabrics and for 70% and natural fi bers came in at just 5%. clothes are exported Natural fi bers like cotton, hemp, bam- to Spain, Korea and China. Collection is For Mr. Neupane his interest in work- boo and stinging nettle are not new ideas; done from jungles not farms, meaning there ing with nature began in his school days European royalty were wearing fi ne cloths is no loss of farming land. Due to lack of when educated by ECCA (Environmental of nettle yarn in the 12th century. Cotton infrastructure in Nepal, all the yarn is spun Campaign for Conservation Awareness). has been produced for over 3000 years and outside, but weaving, dying and producing Since the last ten years, he has been hemp over 5000 years. The Kulang-Rai of the clothes happens locally. producing and selling natural clothing, east Nepal have been using nettle fabric since Visiting the Natural Fibers outlet and starting from his home, selling pieces in records began; tying the umbilical cords of showroom becomes an education in all Basantapur between college and working newborn babies and making the clothes on things alternative. On display are samples in a restaurant. Today, his dream is to create their backs, says Mr. Ram Sharan Neupane, of clothes, fabrics and yarns of: bamboo a market for stinging nettle cloths in Nepal Managing Director of Natural Fibers Pvt. from China (the world’s only producer), for all Nepalese; showing that organic Ltd, in Thamel’s Sagarmatha Bazaar. organic cotton from India, stinging nettle natural cloths are not just for the elite. Mr. Neupane has been inciting a new from Nepal, along with fabrics from the The Natural Fibers client base refl ects way of thinking in Nepal, that wearing unique cotton fl ower tree, soyabean, yak the growing interest in natural clothing with and producing natural clothing is good for wool, silk and many more. Feeling the many being Nepalese who have returned the environment, the body and the overall cloths on sale will transform your con- from abroad and those still abroad sending stresses on the food chain. Natural Fibers cept of the word soft, taking your senses friends to collect items to send to them. has been producing and promoting Nepalese on a short ride, helping you understand Others include the diplomatic, expatriate made natural clothing, especially stinging what it really means to have breathable and NGO/INGO communities of Nepal. nettle fabrics for usage both domestically eco-friendly clothes. With more people like those from Natural Fiber, who are conscious of what we wear, how we live and the pressures exacted on our environment, we may yet reach a more natural way of life in the near distant future. And, look good in the process. ■

Pat Kauba is a freelance writer and photographer with a love for nature’s feel. Contact him at [email protected]. ECS Media SHOPPING

WOODEN RABBIT Code: CPX/162, Rs. 390

WOODEN RABBIT-M Code: CPX/161, Rs. 475

RIB PLACEMAT Code: TWP/137, Rs.167

FELT HEN Code: FLX/840, Rs. 3,300

FELT CHICKEN Code: FLX/841, Rs. 480

PAINTED EGG/PC FELT EGG Code: CLP/638A, Rs. 125 Code: FLX/122, Rs. 162

FELT EGG COZY Code: FLX/8575, Rs. 119

WOODEN COCK Code: CPX/160, Rs. 625 Enjoy Easter CRAFT CRAFT IT YOURSELF The humble candle Man has been illuminating his way long before science. As our loadshedding peaks, I fi nd myself impressed with people banishing darkness, in basic ways. Text By PAT KAUBA

TAKING THE INITIATIVE Last year I had had enough of spending a fortune to light my home; purchasing candles that spat, more than illuminated. I took a trip to Ason Chowk, the centre of all things illuminating, in Kathmandu. I bought the iron cast for making ten rupee candles, twine for wicks, some paraffi n-wax and beeswax. I selected my oldest pot and metal jug for the melting and before I knew it, I was illuminating my life—my- self. Spending half the cost to get double the quality.

Taking 30 minutes to make a dozen candles, soon I began pondering how to improve my humble friend. may want only one strand or maybe Someone suggested adding children’s double. When doubling, it’s best to wax crayons to the paraffi n-wax for twist them as one. If doubting what color—quickly I’d numerous tones. size is best, look into a shop; usually My heart warmed the most to the two strands is plentiful. beewax. Sure it’s expensive, but its glow, Next open your cast, and use a piece smokeless and elegant makes you think, of cloth to wipe the inside ruts with a how could I ever live without you? The PLAY WITH IT little cooking oil. This is to stop the wax cost is offset by the fact that beeswax Make multicolor candles by pouring from sticking to the cast. Following the burns much longer than paraffi n-wax. in stages, giving two-tones, three, holes, wind on your wick and close us- four... Another older method of When mosquitoes began their advance, ing clamps provided when purchased. candlemaking is to fi ll a deep pot I added scented oils such as citroenel- with wax, with wick in hand (adding Put a pot with water onto the stove la—keeping tormentors at bay. a weight like a bolt) dip in and out. and your wax into a metal jug and into As you repeat, the candle gets fatter. the pot. This is the best way to melt, Extra wax is required for regular WHAT AND HOW direct fl ames are quick and danger- topping-up. Paraffi n wax costs 150 to 200 rupees ous—remember, wax is highly fl am- per kilo and quality Himalayan mable! While melting, you can add the Look online, read about it, watch beeswax is 400 plus rupees per kilo. crayons. When adding essence, wait videos on YouTube. Candlemaking For one kilo you can produce the until the wax melts and the fl ame is is ancient; the information endless, equivelant of 33, ten rupee candles. off—so as to not cook-out the scent. even mind-blowing. Always re- The cast is about 1,800 rupees, de- member that wax is fl ammable and With cloth in hand, remembering pending on size. Twine is 50 rupees a above all, have fun with the humble everything is hot, pour slowly into bundle, loads for one’s needs. candle. ■ the cast to avoid trapping air, then So you have bought your pieces, now wait. When cooled, slowly open the Pat Kauba is a freelance writer and photographer what? First, start with your wick. De- cast, cut wicks and remove candles. who loves light. Contact at [email protected]. pending on the size of candle, you Light and enjoy.

90 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np If there is a greater joy than in Giving a Gift, It is in crafting one.

This pictorial art or pauwa painting is a replica located now at Los Angeles Country Museum of Art in USA Size: 38”X28” Price: on request Visit by appointment only Delivery: home or office How to find us Shora Khutte Thamel Order by:

Dhobi Chour Chhetrapati Chowk Contact: 4289003, 9851068196

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u Hotel m Tengal

Swoyambhu Dallu Vajra a t Chautra i Website: www.craftedinkathmandu.com.np Nardevi Amar Chitrakar Marg Temple R Way to iv Dallu e Ason Awas Area r Nardevi Hospital Crafted in Kathmandu Siddhartha Marg Kathmandu Dallu Durbar Square 14 Raja Birendra Marg Awas Area Raja Birendra Marg Kasthamandap Way to Mahendra New Road Ratna Campus Ward No. 15, Dallu Chhauni Barrack Chhauni Museum Marg Tel/Fax: 4289003 Museum Kalimati Teku Email: [email protected] CRAFT ART SHOP Newa Chhen A home in the truest sense, Newa Chhen defi es the norm to stand out as a proud Nepali heritage site. Text By ANUBHUTI POUDYAL Photos by ECS Media

magine walking a little beyond Patan Built around the 17th century, the building has Durbar Square to fi nd a place repre- sentative of Newari culture that Kath- been passed on from many generations to its mandu is so proud of. Now imagine enteringI a 17th century building that was present residents once the home of a commoner, preserved with much of its originality intact. In a city Living in a 17th century room has its modern wares. Huge grinders made up that is itself a heritage, Newa Chhen is one charms. Each of the eight rooms in Newa of wood, large storage pots, Panas and of those rarities with historical signifi cance Chhen is named after the Astha Mandala, hookah are some of the items on display. that did not belong to royalty. the eight auspicious symbols prominent Many such items also adorn the walls Newa Chhen (‘Chh’ pronounced with in Buddhist teachings. The rooms are an and display alcoves throughout the place. a ‘ts’ sound) means ‘a Newari home’. You interesting mix of traditional and modern The restoration of an almost 400- enter the place and the low door reminds amenities. The low beds and carved wood- year old house was just the beginning. you of any traditional Nepali home. The en windows go well with the low ceiling Its conversion into a homely place low ceiling and wooden windows and doors while the sparse decoration – comprising where guests can come and enjoy a lead to a spacious courtyard-garden that of traditional Newar items – helps keep typical Newari environment was the helps you leave the din of city life outside the focus on the architecture. The best turning point. Conservation, restora- the premises. Built around the 17th century thing about the place however, is that these tion and the eventual recognition of during the Malla period, the building has are not hotel rooms; there are rooms that the place as one of the assets of Pa- been passed on from many generations to are part of a home. The whole place is one tan have all been integral. The future its present residents. In 2000, by the joint big home instead, complete with a com- includes assisting the conservation of effort of UNESCO and Patan Tourism mon yard where seasonal fl owers grow, a lesser-known or neglected items of Development Organization (PTDO), reno- place where people can sit down and talk. cultural signifi cance collected at the vation work started on the house, ending in The attic here serves a special pur- Newa Chhen. A brilliant example of 2006. While it would have been forgivable pose: to act as a sort of display room conservation work with a practical side, for the current residents to continue living holding every day Newari items from Newa Chhen is a site with a motive of in the house, the residents decided to launch kitChhen utensils to prayer apparatus. sharing its splendor with people outside a Bed & Breakfast, where interested visitors Many of these items still fi nd use in the Newari community so that they too can merely rent a room to enjoy the ambi- households today, although they struggle can appreciate what once was and still ence of a bygone era. to hold on to their signifi cance amidst is a heritage of Patan. ■

92 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

www.ecs.com.np TRAVEL

96 TRAVEL NEWS 98 DIARY: Yeti Mountain Homes 100 POSTCARDS: Jiri 102 GOOD TO KNOW: Less is more Photo by Robin Boustead TRAVEL NEWS

Visit Lumbini Year 2012 promoted in Paris Siddhipur Mahotsav observed A 3-day ‘Siddhipur Mahotsav’, was and Tanzania, senior diplomats from The Embassy of Nepal in Paris organized organized by the Siddhipur Mahotsav other missions, French dignitaries from a function in the French capital on the committee on February 18 to boost the different walks of life, including former last week of January and urged diplomats flow of tourists in the historical village ambassadors to Nepal attended the from around the world to visit Nepal of Lalitpur. The organizers planned to program. Similarly, consul general, marking Visit Lumbini Year- 2012. bring in about 1 million people through professors, representatives of travel According to the Nepali Embassy in the event that featured informative stalls, agencies, UNESCO professionals and Paris, guests from the French Foreign shows highlighting traditional culture, long-term Nepali residents in France Ministry, ambassadors of India, music, art and live concerts. were also present at the event. Myanmar, Macedonia, Montenegro Siddhipur, a village 3.2 km away from Patan and 7 km away from Kathmandu, has a mix of different cultures. The famous “Nhegaanya Jatra” is celebrated at Siddhipur beginning on the last day of Chaitra to the 4th day of Baisakh next year. The village with the seven ponds is also popular for its straw mat weaving, locally known as “sukul”.

RAK Airways starts fl ights to Kathmandu

RAK (Ras Al Khaimah) Airways initiated flights to Kathmandu from mid February. The national carrier of UAE flies to Kathmandu three times a week now. With the permit from Growth in air passengers in 2011 Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal and Ministry According to the Flight Permission flights carrying 61, 874 passengers. of Tourism and Civil Aviation the carrier Section at Tribhuvan International Airport National flag carrier NAC carried out started the operation of flights between Ras Al Civil Aviation Office, the number of 680 flights bringing in a total of 84412 Khaimah and Kathmandu. incoming international flights to Nepal passengers. Interglobe Aviation (INDIGO) increased by 17.2% to 9, 316 in the recorded only five flights and 691 first 10 months of 2011 from 7,949 for passengers. the same period in 2010. Within the same period, the number of passengers However, the total revenue collected increased by 13% to 1,060,949 from in the first 10 months decreased by Rs. 938,551 last year. 15 million as compared to the same period in 2010. In the first 10 months of Qatar Airways recorded the highest 2011, this sector contributed revenue of number of both flight and passenger Rs. 587 million against Rs. 602 million Buddha Air starts flights movements, operating a total of 943 last year. Qatar Airways contributed Rs. flights to Nepal and bringing in 114,557 63.39 million to the government in 2010 to Varanasi from March passengers in the first 10 months of compared to Rs. 92.86 million last year. Buddha Air started its Kathmandu-Varanasi 2011. Jet Airways operated 913 flights NAC’s revenue contribution till October flight from 1 March and will be operating with 109,581 passengers, while Air India 2011 stood at Rs. 63.90 million while it flights to Kolkata from September. Buddha Airlines stood third with 718 incoming contributed Rs. 69.12 million in 2010. Air has started weekly four flights to Varanasi, on Sundays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at three in the afternoon with opening airfare of Rs. 5,031 targeting both Government to revise member selection Nepali and Indian tourists willing to visit for Nepal Tourism Board religious places of both the countries. Buddha Air has however suspended its flight Representatives from tourist associations- selected by the entrepreneurs instead of to Lucknow in India currently due to offseason HAN, NATTA, NATO, TAAN, NMA, PATA the government. NTB consists of 11 board while it is operating charter flights to Paro Nepal Chapter, HRA, NARA and Reban members, five each from the private and in Bhutan. The airline requested for route insisted Minister Lokendra Bista Magar to public sectors, as it was established under permission for Lucknow from Pokhara and the reshuffle the existing board members on a public partnership model. The members flights are scheduled to operate soon. 29 January. from the government are the permanent ones while the members from private Buddha Air operates ATR-42 (47 seater) and The tourist entrepreneurs proposed that sector will have 3 years term. ATR-72 (70 seater) to Varanasi depending two representatives from the private upon the number of passengers while it sectors be included in the selection The dispute delayed NTB’s chief executive operates Beech 1900 D (18 seater) for committee and the representatives be selection process. domestic flights.

96 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np

TRAVEL DIARY Yeti Mountain Homes Rugged days and luxurious nights high up in the Nepali Himalayas Text & Photos By KASHISH DAS SHRESTHA

usk in Khumbu, the most fi nally Kongde (4250m). The walk-time (cakes, bread) made in-house, and lot popular mountain destination between most resorts conveniently rang- of the vegetables grown in their own for tourists in Nepal. Stars es within four hours. Up until Thame, yard. Coffee, tea, and hot lemon sup- begin to appear in the deep the only part that is challenging is per- plies are endless. Hot showers are not a blueD sky and suddenly Mount Everest haps the hike to Namche: that walk’s last problem in the afternoons and evenings. and other peaks in the horizon appear leg includes a non-stop uphill climb for Downtime includes complimentary to be standing in front of a studded, at least an hour for fast hikers, but there ‘Happy Hour.’ The blankets and duvets deep blue, celestial wallpaper. Below, the really is no rush if you leave Monjo after are warm while the beds are electrically warmer lights of Namche and Khum- breakfast and plan to get to Namche for heated (with a remote control) and the jung dot the landscape. To add to it all, lunch. And there are morning fl ights staff will also give you hot water bottles the snow peaks are awash in the near full between Lukla and Namche too. for the night. The windows are large moon’s silver glow. Suddenly, the six and By no means is YMH the only option and almost all the rooms offer stunning half-hour uphill hike through a blizzard in the six locations where they operate, views. And yes, you will be able to plug seems more than worth it. This is the including Kongde where there is one in your battery chargers too. view as seen from the back patio of other alternative. What is immediately While the YMH route is most defi - Yeti Mountain Home Kongde at 4250m, noticeable however is that the lodges nitely designed as a hiking trail and not a named highest lodge in the world by are always at the start or the end of trekking tour, the last stretch to Kongde Travel+Leisure magazine in 2008. the area they are in, thoughtfully away might not be for everyone. The terrain Yeti Mountain Home Kongde is the from the other lodges and businesses is fairly rough but gorgeous, covered by last stop in the YMH chain that charts while ensuring amazing views. What natural canopy (trees, bamboos) and the a trail designed for those who want to is equally noticeable is the consistent walk is largely an uphill climb that lasts enjoy the Himalayan region in leisurely quality of service, and luxury, in all of seven to eight hours on average. Trails hikes and end the day in pure comfort. the six YMHs. Expect to be welcomed run about a foot wide for extended It begins in Lukla (2840m), followed with warm towels and a choice of warm periods with deep falls on one side – by Phakding (2610m), Monjo (2840m), beverages to freshen up with. The meals slipping or stumbling are not good ideas Namche (3440m), Thame (3800m) and are three course with baked goods (although the Everest Marathon route

98 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np runs through it). The real dangerous are expanding their services. Modestly ONE-NIGHT GETAWAY: part of the trail, however, is the ap- comfortable options are defi nitely more A Saturday afternoon and night in Lukla proximately 150m climb on a thin ledge common now than even just a few itself is an easy escape from Kathmandu. angled at what feels like 45 degrees. This years ago. At Yeti Mountain Homes, Since the airport is in Lukla, it makes it part of the climb is broken down into the comfort is far from modest. After an ideal and quick mountain getaway for several short strips with sharp turns at all, there is no golden rule that says families (even with children), couples, the end of each one. While there is a mountain experiences have to be rug- corporate retreats, or even solo travelers. metal rope one can hold on to for safety ged at night too. The walking, however, The 10-minute walk from the airport to on one side, the other side is a several is still yours to do. YMH Lukla essentially takes you through hundred feet drop. Guides and locals the entire bazaar. At YMH the garden along the way will tell you that this is the BEST TIME TO GO: or the sunroom with stunning views most precarious part of the trip, natu- Mid-March to late-May and September of Lukla Ri and Kongde are perfect rally, and might advise you to not look to late-November. Weekend getaways for long conversations, catching up on down as it could easily cause vertigo. Of possible most times. reading and writing, or simply tuning out course, once you reach the resort the from everything. For explorers, there are hike feels absolutely worth the effort and BEST ITINERARY: several things to do after lunch: the Ke- the staffs go out of their way to make A night at each YMH from Lukla to mgon Monastery and the Thanka paint- sure it is this way. There is an alternate Thame. Add Kongde for adventurers ing school are short walks away while route – an eight-hour hike straight from and experienced hikers. slightly further from the bazaar is the Phakding. There is also a short cut: a Pasang Lhamu-Nicole Niquille Hospital 2-minute helicopter ride from Luka to FOR BEGINNERS: which visitors frequent to see some great Kongde for a 45-minute breakfast trip A night in Lukla or Phakding + Monjo. community work being done as well as with one of the most stunning view of Two nights recommended at Namche the view of Lukla from there. Feel free the Himalayas. This is the same trip that as the weather there can get very foggy to join locals in a game of table tennis/ fashion designer Prabal Gurung went without warning and you would want ping-pong in the bazaar. Starbucks Lukla on and wrote about for Vogue in 2010. to make sure you catch the views (no relation to Starbucks the corporation) There is also an extended 30-45-minute of Everest, Ama Dablan and other is possibly the best spot for coffee (Nepal helicopter ride to Kongde that takes you mountains as seen from the grounds of grown) and fast WiFi. At the Mera Lodge, as high as 23,000ft, bringing you face-to- Sagarmatha National Park Head Quar- it is worth trying to persuade the hostess face with some of the tallest mountains ter, just few minutes away from YMH to serve you Alu-Roti (potato crepe eaten in the world. Namche. Also there: Sherpa Culture with butter and freshly made green chili As new hotels and lodges come up in Museum, the popular Tibetan market, paste) and Shyakpa (stew), delicious tra- the region and tourists seem to arrive al- Namche Gumba, and what feels like a ditional Sherpa meals – but keep in mind most year-around, many establishments piece of Thamel. that the 3-course dinner at YMH is quite sumptuous. For Happy Hour, drinks at the popular Wave Pub in Mera Lodge come with classic rock and reggae music by the pool table. Over at YMH, it is a laid-back affair by the fi re, with drinks and snacks being served by the staff. Fly back to KTM on Sunday. Weekend Extension: an additional night in Phakding, about 3 hours away from Lukla. Once there, you could brave an hour hike up to the 500- year old Pema Choling monastery.

For additional details: Yeti Mountain Homes, www.yetimountainhome.com, Phone: +977 1 4000711)

You can contact the author and photographer at [email protected] and follow him on Twitter @kashishds.

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 99 TRAVEL POSTCARDS

Hiking to and around Charikot and Jiri make Jirifor a great escape from the din of city life. Text By RICHA SHAKYA, Photos By SURAJ RATNA SHAKYA trip to Jiri and Charikot was a perfect end to my 2011. Charikot had beautiful mornings with a wide range of A snow-covered mountains to acknowledge my presence as I sipped my morning tea. The other interesting thing Charikot had to offer was a historical temple that appeared as we paced along the narrow, stone-paved roads of Charikot. After the beautiful views and some memorable pictures, we moved up to Jiri. Small talk with children I met on the way made me realize

100 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np the hardships of village life. I found myself respect- ing these hardy villagers who manage to send their children to school despite their many problems. Nibbling on the famous Jiri cheese at Hotel Jirel Gabila where we were treated more like family than customers, I got tips from the hotel owner about the must-visit places. We visited the Alpaca shelter, where there were only fi ve of them. According to the locals, these adorable animals are a cross be- tween a sheep and a giraffe. About the next place, a farm, the hotel owner joked and said that no one missed a visit, as if it were their in-laws. The head of the farm told us an interesting story about how the farm used to be a wetland. With the help of an underground drainage system built by the Swiss government, they drained all the water out and initi- ated a farm for breeding pigs and cows. Small interesting stories and incidents are what complete a journey, but the people we travel with make the memories worthwhile. Each turn we took and the scenic beauty of the place made us realize how good it felt to travel by road than by air. What fun would it be to travel without the roadside fare, the fresh air, the smell of the forest, the sound of the rivers and getting to see the lifestyle of the people as you pass by. So if you’re planning to take a trip this year, you might just want to rethink that plane ticket.

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 101 TRAVEL GOOD TO KNOW Less is more A ship in the harbour is safe, but that’s not why ships were built – William Shedd. Text By NIRAJ KARKI THAPA Photo by Robin boustead

e all travel, to learn and grow, the thirst of Travel in a group. new places, people and experiences driving Travelling in a group of two or three is not only safer, but you us. We are all meant to travel, for there is can save on costs. Rooms with two and three beds work out always much to learn about the world and 4cheaper than a single room, which over the course of a trip ourselves.W Despite all the good that travel is, the constraints will save you lots. A group also means you can share carrying of time and fi nances often bind the will to travel. more supplies. Better together, as Jack Johnson sings – it’s Travel need not be luxurious though; the experience of simple as that. just being on a journey is often rewarding enough and for those that plan properly and act smartly, travelling can be Pack light, but pack sensibly done on a budget too. The traveller’s rucksack is a world of its own. Pack smart, pack light. Buy a good water bottle and water purifi cation tablets. The Get into shape and stay in shape. 5Nepali made ‘Piyush’ (water purifying drops) works quite well. The better your physical condition, the less confi ning ‘budget’ You save money and the environment. Certain trekking areas becomes. If you can do a 10-day trip in eight, that’s two days of are plastic free so do your bit by not using avoidable plastics. 1expenses saved. It’s much more than that though – a fi t body means you’re not going to be grumpy about small setbacks that Eat local, shop local. you might end up spending money unnecessarily over. Also, Daal bhat - there is nothing wrong with it – it tastes good and if you pack light, you can do a lot of trekking without hiring is nutritious, has everything your body needs and is cheaper a porter, which again saves you money. 6than most things on the menu. Also, if you really care about being green, it has less food miles than most things on the Do you homework – research! menu. Eating meat is expensive (and sometimes risky). Avoid- Buy a map, look up travel blogs online, ask your friends. Travel ing it will make a huge difference in your food expenses. On a is always about learning, sometimes even small things such as side note, ordering the same thing for everyone in your group 2which places to avoid. makes it easier for the teahouses/restaurants by saving time and energy. (Being nice to your host improves the chances of Travel off peak, and to new places. getting a discount) Nepal has some treks – the problem is everyone goes where everyone goes. Travelling during off-season means you can Pack small treats. 3travel for less and often see more of the place. Unfrequented Want.It’s a terrible thing. It is the single thing that can cripple places (depending on how desolate) usually turn out cheaper budget travel. It’s a mind game – pack small rewards, choco- than busy routes. 7lates, jerky and the likes.

102 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np ADVERTORIAL Raniban Retreat Text By NIMMA ADHIKARI

he panorama is indisputably one of the most spectacular things about the Raniban Retreat, a resort erected on a hilltopT at Pumdi Bhumdi VDC, 1492m above sea level. Just a few miles away from the lake city of Pokhara, yet suitably isolated, the resort introduces its guests to new heights of nature’s magnifi cence. Right above the World Peace Pagoda, the sun rises to mark a new day with the closest encounter with the Himalayas for people who have been living in the city area for too long. The ridges of Dhaulagiri,

the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre ECS Media steals away all the glory and praise and so does Lake Fewa. The illusion of a pictur- esque fl oating Himalaya range amidst the clouds and the lake at the bottom is a view The restaurant in the resort serves Nepali, Indian, to die for. The otherwise plain valley except for a few scattered smaller hills protruding Chinese, Continental and Italian cuisines along with local from the ground looks otherworldly. The resort is a free Wi-Fi zone and has and imported drinks. Apart from lodging and eateries, 4 deluxe rooms and 12 tents barred with Raniban Retreat also offers meeting halls for seminars. bamboo walls, each complemented with a beautiful landscape in front of it. Solar power from Gham Power has been installed to light the CFLs. A 10.5 km pipeline for drinking water has been brought from Bhedikharka with the effort of the resort itself while it has also managed a separate water source for the resort that has also been distributed to the entire village. A vegetable garden at the Raniban Retreat ECS Media ECS Media offers nutritious greens to its guests. Plans for poultry farming and rearing livestock are in process to ensure that guests are provided the best. The restaurant in the resort serves Nepali, Indian, Chinese, Continental and Italian cuisines along with local and imported drinks. Apart from lodging and eateries, Ra- niban Retreat also offers meeting halls for seminars. It also arranges hiking tours, village walks and bike rides on request. Guests can drive in from Chhore- patan or Kalimati and then walk 5-10 minutes through the stone steps through the hillock forest leading to the breath- taking beauty of the Himalayas. An alternative way is to take a boat, cross the Barahi Devi Mandir and hike uphill to the World Peace Pagoda and then to the Raniban Resort. ■ For more info: www.raniban.com

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 103 ECS COURSES In order to improve the skills and knowledge of your household staff, ECS offers the following courses this month. Please let us know if you are interested in enrolling your staff for these courses. Phone: 442.6439, 98510.07.900 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] to book a place.

EMPLOYMENT SERVICES SPECIAL COOKING Many excellent staff are registered with us, including cooks, guards, gardeners, maids and drivers. Our list FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF is constantly updated. Interviews are carried at our office to help resolve language problems between ECS cooking course is an opportunity for your maid or our clients and the staff. If you are looking for efficient and reliable staff, please come and cook to improve his/her cooking skills. At the end of this discuss your requirements with us and don’t forget to register your staff with us before you leave. course, participants will be able to work as a cook in- INTERVIEW FEE: Rs. 1,500 PLACEMENT FEE: Rs. 2,500 dependently and can even organize a small party. The course content includes information on different food items for practical cooking and will also make them BASIC ENGLISH aware about kitchen hygiene. We teach them how to LANGUAGE prepare Indian, Chinese and continental items, as well FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF as basic Western cooking techniques like simmer, sauté, Our English class for household staff enables etc. We will also discuss how to organize a kitchen, to them to communicate with you in simple English. prepare menus, cutting techniques, steps for serving Language structures are taught along with food during small and big parties. We will also teach vocabulary that is related to household matters them how to keep food and the kitchen hygienically (for daily use). Oral communication skills will be clean. This course helps them improve their skills so your emphasized in this course rather than reading staff will not only serve you better while you are here, and writing skills. This is a one month course, 5 but they will find it easier to find a job when you leave. days week, one hour a day. FEE: Rs. 4,000 Duration of course: 6 weeks, five days a week and two NEPALI hours a day. VENUE: Maharajgunj FEE: Rs.15,000 LANGUAGE NEPALI CLASS FOR LANGUAGE CD BAKING COURSE FOREIGNERS The revised ECS Nepali language CD is now ECS Services has been supporting available. It gives you the chance not only to lis- Participants will be able to bake the following items. foreigners to learn the Nepali ten but also to practice your Nepali along with 1. Heart cocoa cake Language (speaking, reading and the CD. We feel that this improved CD will help 2. Buche de noekl writing) for many years. If you would you learn the Nepali language more effectively. 3. Strawberry mango cobbler like to learn or improve your Nepali A booklet comes with the CD. PRICE: Rs. 999 4. Vegetable pizza vocabulary, please call us. Group or (including booklet) individual classes are available. DATE: 25th March 2012 TIME: 1.00 pm to 5.00 pm FOOD HANDLING & VENUE: Maharajgunj HYGIENE FEE: Rs. 1,200 BASIC ENGLISH FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF READING & WRITING ECS is organizing food handling and hygiene course for FOR HOUSEHOLD STAFF your household staff. If you are unsure whether your staff THAI COOKING COURSE Our clients and their staff often face prob- is aware about hygiene then this is the ideal course. Participants will be able to cook the following items. lems when not communicating face to face. This hands-on class includes daily hygiene, impor- If your staff could read and write memos or tance of hand washing and preparation of fruits and 1. Fried chicken with satay sauce notes, things could be easier for you. We vegetables. We will teach them the proper way of 2. Baked fith chilli sauce present this reading and writing course that cleaning - tables, windows, kitchen floor and bath- 3. Chiang thai noodle soup will enable your household staff to read room. We will also teach them how to take care of a 4. Bean curd veg curry notes/memos, write simple sentences, and refrigerator. We will discuss how illness is spread and 5. Cucumber salad take telephone messages. This will also help why the corner and behind the door is important to DATE: 29th April 2012 your staff to get employed after you leave. clean. We intend this course to help your staff to clean TIME: 1.00 pm to 5.00 pm This is a two months course, 5 days a week, the house properly. Two days course, 1p.m. to 5p.m. VENUE: Maharajgunj one hour a day. FEE: Rs. 8,000 VENUE: Maharajgunj FEE: Rs. 1,200

Maharajgunj, Kathmandu Phone: 442.6439/98510.07.900 ECS Services offers staff employment services (cooks, watchmen, [email protected] or gardeners, housemaids and drivers); courses for household [email protected] staff (cooking and health); Nepali language for expatriates and Of ce Hour: English language for household staff. We hope that these services 11:00am to 3:00pm (Monday through Friday) provided by ECS help make your life more comfortable. www.namobuddharesort.com

Namobuddha Resort

The Fantastic views of Himalayas. Fresh Mountain air, 45 Km east from Kathmandu, surroundings by Organic farm and forest. Home made Pasta - Ice Cream, sour dough bread from wood fire woven. Only Vegetarian food. Electric Heater and Wireless Internet. 30 Minutes walks to the Famous Namobuddha Stupa. Ideal place for Retreat, Yoga and meditation. A night accommodation in Small House with Lunch, dinner and breakfast single occupancy Rs. 4600, Double occupancy Rs. 7100 . A night accommodation in Medium House with Lunch, dinner and break fast single occupancy Rs. 5600, Double occupancy Rs. 8100 . All rates are subject to 10% service charge and 13% VAT

Namobuddha Resort Kavre, Phulbari, Nepal, Tel. 97716912212, email: [email protected]. The details provided in the listings are tentative and are subject to change. for classifieds & advertisements call Restaurant &Nirbheek K.Bars Subedi, Tel: 5011571, Mobile:9849034998 CHINESE CUISINE Potato Cush Bara with Patan Mangalbazar THE GHANGRI CAFÉ Peanut sauce –Rs 145 Tel: 5537599 Pulchwok Lalitpur BlueBird Food Court JAPANESE AND KOREAN Tel: 5528703 Tel: 4228833, CUISINE Chicken Sumai Mo:Mo Ext. no. 4476 KOTO RESTAURANT Rs.70 Newari Samay Durbar Marg Cordeu Blue Mutton Rs.150 With Chicken Rs.175 Sakeyaki Rs. 290 Nepali Thali Rs. 190 CAFÉ DU TEMPLE Donburi Rs. 310 With Buff Rs.150 Tempura Rs. 260 Patan Durbar Square Tel: 5527127 Candles Restro Lounge FRENCH CUISINE Spaghetti Bolognese Rs.175 & Cube DELICES DE FRANCE Temple Special Chicken Kamaladi RESTAURANT Rs. 225 Tel: 4438017 Thamel Nepali Style Grilled Chicken steak – Rs.200 Tel.4260326 Fish Rs. 250 Paneer tikka – Rs.150 Chicken Sandeko Chicken sashlik – Rs.220 ITALIAN RESTAURANT Salad: Rs 290/- Lamb steak – Rs.275 OLIVE GARDEN Salmon with cream & Murg makhani – Rs.250 Wine Sauce: Rs 760/- Radisson Hotel, Lazimpat Mediterranean Tel: 441818 COURTYARD Platter: Rs 580 Italian Cuisine RESTAURANT Kamaladi Tel: 4253056 NANGLO BAKERY CAFÉ Roasted Chicken Rs.195 Chicken Steak Rs.190 BAKERY CAFÉ NEW C: Mo mo Chicken Rs 130 Margeritta Pizza Rs 165 THE EVEREST HOTEL Mix Pizza Rs.220 BANESHWOR Chicken Burger Rs145 New Baneshwor, Kathmandu, Tel: 01 4780100 Tel: 4488528 BAKERY CAFÉ BOUD- Grilled fish Chicken sizzler Rs 250 DHA with rice Rs 250 KFC RESTAURANT The Café- Lobby Level Mandarin Roof Top Chicken mo mo Rs 120 Nepali lunch set Rs 240 Coffee Shop Chinese Restaurant Durbar Marg Taglatella at sungi Rs 190 Club sandwich Rs 225 BAKERY CAFÉ Executive Buffet Lunch: Crispy Fried salt & pepper Tel: 4226287 Bandel tareko / TINDHARA Nrs 1100 Duck: Nrs 995 Chicken bucket – Rs.699 BAKERY CAFÉ sandeko Rs 205 Fpaghetti alla Executive Buffet Dinner: Lobster in Mushroom & wine – Rs.999 PULCHOCK bolognes Rs 190 Nrs 1200 sauce: Nrs 2150 Zinger beal – Rs.279 Tel: 5010110 BAKERY CAFÉ TEKU Masala dosa Rs 105 Buffet set lunch Rs 310 Saturday Brunch: Nrs 1200 Multi Flavoured shredded Twister meal – Rs.269 Tel: 4265987 Mutton Mo mo Rs 160 Nasi Goreng: Nrs 650 Chicken: Nrs 625 Chicken barbeque Rs 195 Sundaes – Rs.69 – Rs.99 Grilled Prawns: Nrs 1200 Tibetan Gyakok (Veg or Non Crumb Fried Stuffed Mush- Veg) Krushers – Rs.69 – Rs.129 rooms: Nrs 375 (Minimum order for 2 persons): Nrs 1400 RICE & BOWL Tel: 4253337 BHUMI RESTRO Babar Mahal Revisited Far Pavilion Roof Top RESTAURANT Frilled Salmon LOUNGE BabarMahal Indian Restaurant Bugles and Tigers Roof Top Tripureswor With Cumin Rs. 850 Lazimpat Tel: 4267346 Kakori Kabab: Nrs 725 Gurkha Bar Tel: 4251678 Sea Food Tel: 4412193 Feast Of Rana Ma- Chandi Chowk Tikki: Nrs Kama Kazi: Nrs 520 Hakka Prawn Rs.550 Platter Rs. 950 Mix Bara: Rs.90 haraja 525 FlatLiner: Nrs 595 Creper A La Goat Mix Chatamari: Rs.90 Normal Menu Rs. 1040 Gosht Ki Biryani: Nrs 725 Beer (Domestic): Nrs 475 Jambo Prawn Special sauce Rs.950 Cheese Rs. 550 Choyela : Rs.100 Royal Menu Rs. 1430 Applicable taxes extra Delux Menu Rs. 1595 THAMEL ECO RESORT OR2K BAITHAK UTSAV Chibahal, Thamel Thamel Gourmet Trout Rs. 800 CONTINENTAL CUISINE Tel: 4263810, 4257505 Tel: 4422097 Dinner 6:30pm onwards TFC Mint Lemonade Rs. 70 Radisson Hotel [email protected] Typical Nepali Cuisines Stuffed Vegetable FIRE AND ICE Lazimpat, Tel: 4411818 HYATT REGENCY Combination Rs. 290 Pizzeria Congi Lamb Rs. 600 Tian Rui Chinese OR2K Combo Thamel, Seasame KATHMANDU Restaurant Platter Rs. 310 Taragaon, Boudha, Tel: 4491234 Tel: 4250210 Chicken Rs 500 Thapathali Beautiful Antipasti Pizza’s Spaghetti Fillet Mignon Rs. 550 ROX RESTAURANT THE CAFE Tel: 4243078 Platter Rs. 180 Melting Chocolate: Pepper Steak: Ice Creams NRs 750 NRs 800 CHEZ CAROLINE RES- Crispy fried chicken – Rs.549 STATION BBQ Smoked Trout & Salmon Arabic Chicken Shishta- THAI CUISINE TAURANT Bong bong chicken – Rs.279 Jhamsikhel 552208 Cutlet: NRs 690 wouk: YING YANG Mediterranean and French Prawn and Salmon Risotto: NRs 800 Spicy corn – Rs.149 Shredded pork with RESTAURANT food NRs 1050 Japanese Pork Chop: Tofu with black bean sauce spring onion-500 Thamel, 4701510 Baber Mahal Revisited Skewers: NRs 1150-1450 NRs 800 – Rs.119 Pork Chop-450 Prawn Tempura-Rs 595 Tel: 4263070 / 4264187 Cold buff – Rs.239 Burrito-350 Chicken Satay- Rs 385 Salad Caroline Rs. 780 Spicy whole Fish-700 Pepper steak Rs. 785 WALTER’S RESTAURANT THIRD EYE RESTAU- Lamb chop Rs. 1295 RANT AND BAR NEPALI AND NEWARI CUISINE Thamel, 4260289 CAFÉ DE PATAN (Continental Gourmet ) Wrapped Prawn- Rs 595 BabarMahal Revisited

106 M A R C H 2012 www.ecs.com.np EATING OUT

SOALTEE CROWNE PLAZA Tahachal, Kathmandu, Nepal

INDIAN Pizzas Rs.395 Red label Rs. 450 per peg Kakori Chocolate surprise Rs.395 Beer Rs. 350 Tel: 4273999 Extn: 6555 Black Label CAFÉ Kakori Seekh Rs. 750 Rs. 1000 per peg Garden terrace Raan E Awadh Rs. 1575 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6152 CHINESE Doodhiya Paneer Rs. 575 Prawn and Salmon China Garden Lehsoni Methi Fantasia Rs.1295 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6159 Chilgoza Rs. 775 Chicken Chutney Corn Cream Rs. 400 ITALIAN Roll Rs. 550 Gin Chicken Rs. 575 Alfresco Grilled Churrasco Steak Chicken Lung Fung Soup Tehzeeb Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6123 Rs. 695 Rs. 275 Norwegian Salmon Bhujure Rs. 595 Soya Wine Chilli Pomfret Rs. 1195 Rs. 1050 BAR Australian Lamb Cutlet Sapo Chicken Rs. 600 Rodi Bar Rs.1195 Honey Pork Ribs Rs. 575 Tel: 4273999 Ext. 6224

Durbarmarg salami/ tuna/vegetable/ Tel: 4430170 cheese) – Rs.100 – Rs.140 (The) Almond Café Samay Baji Rs. 450 Putalisadak Chicken Bara Rs. 260 D SQUARE CAFÉ & RES- Tel: 4412492 Chicken Chatamari Rs. 310 TAURANT Almond Special – Rs.270 CAFÉ & BAKERY Patan Durbar Square Mixed Pizza – Rs.280 • Multi cuisine Restaurant aCube Cafe Tel: 5545056 Chicken Sizzler – Rs.255 • Ample parking space Sanepa, Lalitpur Prawn chili – Rs.350 Almond Soup – Rs.160 9841218773 Newari set – Rs.210 • Live music (Geet Gazaal) Safallay- Rs 80 Rainbow trout – Rs.425 TIKE’E JHYAA • Suitable for parties upto Newari Khaja Set- Rs 80 Thai chicken – Rs.170 RESTAURANT 300 pax Chicken tandori- Rs 300 Freak Street DELICATESSEN CAFÉ Tel: 9841668938 • seminars and conference Buzz Café & Bar Durbar Marg Cuisine: Newari Baluwatar Tel: 4221331 Tel: 4429903 Ham with cheese burger – BAR AND LOUNGES Buffalo wings – Rs.220 Rs.220 ABSOLUTE BAR Mozzarella sticks – Rs.180 Chicken sizzler – Rs.430 Hotel Narayani Complex, Momo – Rs.160 Chicken Hawaiian – Rs.305 Pulchowk Durbar Marg BBQ wings – Rs.280 Chicken wings – Rs.280 Tel: 5521408 (on the way to Jai Nepal) Quesadilla – Rs.230 Combo meal (king size) – Bandel Tareko Rs. 300.00 Rs.390 Chicken Chowela Rs. Ph no: 4434965 Bu Keba The Organic 300.00 Mail: [email protected] Village DHOKAIMA CAFE Bakhundole, Lalitpur Patan Dhoka ATTIC BAR 5524368 5522113 Tejbhawan, Lazimpat Buck wheat Pan Cake0- Rs Grilled Australian Steak 4442615 280 Rs.1099 Bacon Potato Roll- Rs 200 Kumaripati, 5008679 Boudha 6, Kathmandu shaitan served with garden Mediterrain Platter- Rs 480 Grilled Shilake Mushroom Chicken Wings with Hot Mutton Fokso Tareko-Rs 90 Chicken Biryani Rs.330 fresh vegetables and deep Rs. 359 Chicken Egg Bara- Rs 110 Cheese Pizza Rs.220 fried kalamari – Rs 900 CAFÉ CHEENO Garlic Sauce Rs 350 Veg Sandwich Rs. 140 Krishna Galli Flavors Café & Restau- BOURBON ROOM CAFE BROWN SUGAR PICASSO “ARTISTE DE Tel: 2210423 rant RESTRO BAR Jhamsikhel (Opposite British MANNY’S EATERY AND LA CUISINE” Paneer Skewer Rs.475 Bouddha Durbarmarg, School) TAPAS BAR Jawalakhel, 5009076 Salmon Fillet Rs.875 Tel: 4498748 Tel: 4441703 Tel: 5543003 Jawalakhel BBQ Pork – Rs 650 Fish and Chips Rs. 475 Pizza – Rs.300 – Rs.425 Nachos Grande Rs. 400 Nepali authenitic thali Tel: 5536919 Seafood Platter - Rs 800 Chicken Burger Rs. 250 Pastries – Rs.25 – Rs.90 Grilled Pork Chops Rs. 400 Jogi bhat delight Fried calamai with basil aioli Home made Veg/Non-Veg Organic coffee – Rs.50 – Hot and Spicy Pizza Rs. CAFEREENA Rs 399 THE CORNER BAR lasagna Rs. 275/350 Rs.75 320 Durbar Marg Spicy buffalo wings Rs 399 Radisson Hotel Burger – Rs.200 – Rs.340 Tel: 4231313 Lazimpat Tel: 4411818 CUPPAS CINNAMON GRILL Som tom thai- 175 MOKSH LIVE RESTAU- Putalisadak Paradise Restaurant & LOUNGE Kambo Chee- 365 RANT & BAR ZAIKA NEPALI CUISINE Tel: 4412492 Café Jhamshikhel Jhamsikhel Thamel Mocha frappucino – Rs.170 Bouddha Stupa Tel: 5521339 FUNKY BUDDHA RESTAU- Tel: 5528362 Tel: 4700972 Blind love shake – Rs.150 Tel: 016209046 Chicken Rag Out Rs. 350 RANT & BAR Duck Breast Rs 650 Chicken Pizza Rs 270 Blended pineapple/orange Chicken buritto – Rs.300 Grilled Pork Chop Rs. 425 Thamel Rainbow Trout Rs 550 Ham and cheese sanswich – Rs.75 Paradise salad – Rs.250 Grilled Chicken Parmesan Tel: 47000919 Rs120 Sandwich (chicken/ ham/ Chicken stuffed – Rs.350 Rs. 380 Funky special local platter NAMOBUDDHA RES- Paradise sandwich – Rs.290 Rs. 395 TAURANT Mocktails – Rs.160 DEGGA RESTO Padthi- Rs. 225 to 350 Kavre, 9851106802 LOUNGE HIMALAYAN CAFÉ

www.ecs.com.np M A R C H 2012 107 Yoga classes and wifi [email protected] www.thamelecoresort.com

Thamel Eco Resort

Chibahal, Thamel Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4263810, 4257505 Fax: +977-1-4417524 CLASSIFIED

TheT Wide Collection of HandmadeHan Paper Products, Pashmina, Dhaka, Mithila Products, Ceramics, Musical Instruments, Beads, Woolen Items, Hemp Products & Custom Order Wel-come Accessories...

Out-let Tibetan Camp Road, Ekantakuna, Jawalakhel, Patan, Tel: 5546874 E-mail: [email protected], url: www.nepalipaper.com Shopping: www.craftsfromnepal.com

KOHKO KAINEAINENE Cashmere. Textiles. Garments. Knitwear. Home.

St. Mary’s Road, Pulchowk Ph: 5527539 Open: Sundayy – Friday 11:00Am – 7:30Pmm Saturday 12:002:000 – 6:00 Pm

SPILLED INK Imperfect Trekkers? Text By GUSTAV SCHREIBER, GUEST ESSAYIST

fter Tom Rachman published his debut novel ‘The Imperfection- ists’ (2010), it was described as “not a novel in the conventional sense,”A but “a series of short stories, slice- of-life accounts of dysfunctional journal- ists working on an international English- language daily in Rome.” By the end of the book the reader knows a lot about a team of fi ctional journalists and their dysfunctional lives. Rachman is good at bringing his char- acters to life around their work, their private lives, and the headline stories they chase. One evening while at dinner with some Western trekkers recently, I wondered if there was potential for a similar book about characters I have met on trek. “What-the- hay,” I told myself, “give it a whirl,” and be- gan jotting notes. It was a start. Novelizing in the English language and he’d be over them could come later, I thought. 110 years old now if still living (unlikely), I’ll For starters, take ‘Mary’, an obsessive use it. I could not invent a better moniker to individualist who obstinately refused to stay match his behavior, obsessed as he was with with the rest of the group and single-mind- his daily business ‘on the john’. For trek that edly charged off each day to be fi rst into year our agent gave us the option of having camp miles and hours ahead of everyone tables with fancy cutlery and, if we liked, a else. And, ‘Ralph’, an absent-minded sci- plastic toilet seat on folding aluminum legs entist, slow and consistently last into camp. for our personal comfort... The other trek- He was also an obsessive chocoholic who kers refused them all. They could sit on the salivated at the sound of candy bars being ground to eat, they said, and they knew how ripped open for a quick energy snack. Yes, to squat in the woods. But not John, who he’d forgotten to bring his own. And, yes, insisted on having the collapsible commode. the rest of us hid ours’ from him. It puzzled the Sherpas that John was A ‘foodie’ named ‘Phil’ was a hoarder. the only one to use it. When they heard This tall, gangly misfi t, a retired physics that American slang for toilet is ‘john’ they professor, was typically fi rst to the lunch laughed uproariously. But John’s ‘johning’ stop spread out by our Sherpas beside the behavior wasn’t funny. While he assiduously trail where, when no one was looking, he avoided voiding in view of us, he had no would fi ll (‘Phil’!) his daypack with more compunction against unfolding the con- cheese and crackers than he could pos- traption for a bare-bottom sit-down out sibly eat, leaving little for the stragglers in an open fi eld in full view of the locals. who arrived late. Guards were posted. I led that trek, and when I discovered his Then there was an elderly ‘crack-head’ public misdeeds I was furious and let him named ‘Carl’, who had clearly blown his know that his actions were unacceptable! mind on drugs years before during his hip- Enter ‘Betty’ who at the height of my indig- pie days. His reality was all too often at odds nation poured a tumbler full of Scotch and and ours’, and his weird and wonderful ordered: “Drink it, Gus! – You need it!” Bless proclamations and incessant and untimely her soul. I downed the elixir in a gulp, while ‘off-the-wall’ (bizarre) questions challenged dear John folded the commode contraption our collective patience. and retreated meekly (sort of) to his tent. By the way, to avoid any ‘defamation-of- Now who among the porters do you character’ lawsuits, the true identities of these suppose carried the portable potty pew? The stranger-than-life personalities shall remain kitchen boy, of course, on top of all of the undisclosed. Except for ‘John’. That’s his real camp’s other plastic and aluminum gear— name, but since it’s one of the most common the cooking pots. To everyone’s dismay. ■ AD INDEX

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TOURS & TRAVELS Borderlands (111) 4700894 International Trek (83) Nepal Social Treks (67) 4701070 President Travels & Tours (37) 4220245 Royal Mt. Travels (108) 4444378 HERITAGE TALE Questioning Culture Text By ANIL CHITRAKAR ECS Media

epal is going through a dif- fl oor fi rst thing in the morning. ‘Artists’ from Tripureshwor all the way to the fi cult period in its history were then commissioned to design and foothills of Surya Binayak. The entire and many try hard to fi g- build a temple dedicated to Ganesh – system is gone without a trace because ure out how we got where the remover of obstacles, so that the we did not question the corruption and weN are today. One reason, and a very sun could continue its journey “across mismanagement. Perhaps we were just strong one, is because we do not have the sky” unhindered. Such a beautiful too busy “speaking” eloquently about a questioning culture. Questioning and concept and one would think the solar the depletion of foreign currency re- challenging ideas of people with power industry would adopt this site as their serves due to diesel import for public and authority, and suggesting better ways “patron” as they expand their business. transportation. Whatever the past, it is ahead or alternatives is still not culturally Right now, the temple complex is very never too late to begin to question and accepted. This happens across age bar- popular for weddings, and big family challenge the “wrongs” in our society. riers, ethnic barriers, language barriers events; but the main reason why many The Japanese have paid for us to have an and even geographic barriers. A young Kathmandu valley residents visit the site “obstacle free” ride up to Surya Binayak. member of the family does not question and pay homage and perform rituals is The temple complex itself consists the older member. It is very diffi cult to to make sure that their children have a of a shikhara style structure with the get people to question those who joined clear “power of speech”. Ganesh will statue of the Ganesh decorated with a the offi ce a few months earlier than make sure that the young sibling will not set of beautifully repousse and guilded them, even in corporate Nepali culture. have any speaking diffi culties. toranas. Pilgrims and devotees have of- The vision of a “merit based Nepal” is The problem with society, generally, fered the temple a lot over the years and far behind due to this inherent culture. is that once the child does begin to speak some of them have even put up statues At the eastern end of the ‘six lane’ and ask questions, we tell them to “shut of themselves. The presence of a British highway to Bhaktapur, paid for by the up”. We remind them of their “rightful” style water hydrant as part of the décor, Japanese tax payer, where the road sud- place in the home, playground, and so- is quite unique and confusing and worth denly narrows, is a very popular and ciety; and why they should not ask too fi nding out more about. The Ganesh, as really beautiful heritage site - Surya many questions. we all know, has an elephant head and if Binayak. The local belief is that the rul- Many readers will recall that there traditional wisdom is to be believed, an ers of Bhaktapur asked the astrologers was a clean mass transit system – the elephant never forgets. This is another to find an auspicious site where the electric trolley buses, paid for by the key attribute to removing our numerous rays of the sun would hit the valley Chinese that used to take the people obstacles. ■

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MARCH 2012 / Rs. 100 TREKKING SPECIAL ISSUE www.ecs.com.np ISSN 1729-2751 Trekking is good for you Trekking is good for you / In the beginning – Trekking Nepal Mountain Tourism and threat of extreme weather Meet Everests / In the beginning – Trekking Nepal Mountain Tourism and threat of extreme weather Meet Everests

TrekkingTrekking

MARCH 2012 ISSN 1729-2751 isis goodgood forfor youyou www.ecs.com.np The mountains are somewhere for everyone, some place anyone can become a better person. 9 771729 275000

SUBSCRIBER COPY SHERPA HERITAGE HOUSE NEWA CHHEN YETI MOUNTAIN HOMES 127 32 Local and international efforts 92 A Newar home turned lodge- 98 Rugged treks meet luxury pay homage to Sherpa lifestyle. cum-museum takes pride in accommodations in the picturesque conserving its Newar heritage. mountains in Solu Khumbu.