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Out of Africa: Foodways of the Gullah-Geechee Culture

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Out of Africa: Foodways of the Gullah-Geechee Culture An Evening of Indian Culinary Education and Culturalences throughout Exchange the world, Margret organized By Suzanne Brown (Atlanta) the event with Indian native Chef Archna Becker, an instructor of regional cuisines and Did you know there are 65 varieties of lentils owner of the Bhojanic restaurants of Atlanta. indigenous to India? And, when you think of Ambassador Kumar gave a short presentation beautiful saris elegantly draped around Indian on the history of India followed by a fash- women, chances are you would be surprised to ion show that included four friends of Mrs. find none in sight when traveling to certain parts Kumar—all from different regions—who of India. Saris play an important role in women’s modeled and talked about the traditional at- fashion, but there are other types of traditional tire from their homeland. attire such as the shalwar kameez––an elegant, After the educational, cultural exchange por- long, brocade tunic over slacks. Food, tradition, tion of the evening, Dames were able to fully and culture differ from region to region, and appreciate the sumptuous array of regional the Atlanta Dames gained new insights into the cuisines. They arranged small portions of the history, flavors, and tastes of India during their prepared dishes in compartmentalized, tradi- recent Global Culinary Initiative (GCI) event: tional Indian plates––starting with the spiciest “Culinary Heritage from the North, South, East, and ending with the cool flavor of yogurt. and West Regions of India.” The Dames experienced an evening of India’s Editor’s note: Suzanne Brown is a former culinary heritage at the home of Indian Ambas- LDEI international president and founding sador and Consul General Ajit Kumar and his chair of the Global Culinary Initiative. wife, Margret Kumar. A culinarian who has presented educational dinners for global audi- OPPOSITE PAGE: Murukku––savory, crunchy Indian snacks. Ambassador Kumar, Margret THIS PAGE: L-R: Margret Kumar shows Stacy Zeigler, Kumar, Chef Archna Becker, and Suzanne Dale DeSena, and Sandra Bank how to fill small Brown at the Atlanta GCI cultural event. puris––thin, crisp hollow puffs. Ashley Mitchell displays Dames enjoy the display of beautiful Indian her meal. To enjoy the taste and flavor of each dish, garments. Dames and guests sample the Indian food is best served in separate sections. Ashley addictive Indian appetizers and snacks. A Mitchell, Angie Mosier, and Nancy Erickson fill their variety of pulses, including beans, lentils and nine-compartment dinner plates with Indian specialties. peas. Photos by Travis S. Taylor, Atlanta Out of Africa: Foodways of the Gullah-Geechee Culture By Susan Slack (Charleston) begins the conversation with an overview of the historical connection the Gullah- The Global Culinary Initiative helps Dames Geechee have to West Africa. Jonathan was to explore global cultures and food customs raised in a small Lowcountry community and to examine how these influences take on near the S.C. Sea Islands where his grand- culinary relevance in our own countries,” says parents were independent rice farmers. Global Culinary Initiative Chair Sandy Hu He graduated with a degree from the Art (San Francisco). “In Charleston we'll have a Charleston artist Jonathan Green. Chef Matthew Raiford. Chef Kevin Mitchell. Photo by Jonathan Institute of Chicago in 1982, and received unique opportunity to trace West and Central Boncek. an honorary doctorate from the Univer- African foodways through the extraordinary sity of South Carolina in 1996. The book, contributions of slaves.” lina’s rice-based economy made it one of the Gullah Images: The Art of Jonathan Green, The Gullah-Geechee peoples—called richest colonies in the eighteenth century; was published in the same year. Head of the Gullah in the Carolinas and Geechee in Charleston was one of the wealthiest cities nonprofit Lowcountry Rice Culture Project, Georgia and Northern Florida—are one of and the most fashionable. Slave chefs and Jonathan’s humanitarian and civic contribu- the oldest, surviving Af- cooks played an important role in shaping tions are extensive. He explores the history rican cultures in the U.S. Lowcountry cuisine, infusing it with African of Carolina Gold Rice in the exhibition, Their enslaved ancestors, of ingredients and preparation methods. This Unenslaved: Rice Culture Paintings. Jonathan various ethnic groups, were session looks at the building blocks of sees the world through the eyes of an artist, brought from Africa to work Gullah-Geechee cuisine: Caribbean influenc- splashing images with bold, vivid colors on coastal plantations and es, cooking techniques; seasonings; African and intricate patterns. Writer Pat Conroy the Sea Islands—a cluster of barrier islands heritage foods like benne (sesame), field writes in Gullah Images, “The Gullah people along the Eastern coast of South Carolina peas, and okra; and abundant local ingredi- depicted in Jonathan Green's world look like and Georgia. Through isolation, their diverse ents like seafood and grits. Our expert panel they got dressed while staring at rainbows.” traditions blended into a hybrid African- members have deep, abiding connections to CheFarmer MATTHEW RAIFORD American culture with strong African Gullah-Geechee culinary traditions. JONATHAN GREEN grew up eating Reezy Peezy (Sea Island red characteristics evident today. South Caro- , a nationally acclaimed and awarded professional artist, peas and rice), Tomato Pilau, and Hoppin’ 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Leveraging Brock Circle Helps Differentiate LDEI from Other Organizations By Lori Willis (St. Louis) The Board convened an ad hoc panel of Brock Circle members to brainstorm concepts as a first step in determining where Brock Circle funds could be invested in keeping with the mission to enhance con- ference education and beyond to the benefit of the greater membership. Carol Brock (New York); Patty Erd (Chicago); Mary Ellen Griffin(New York); Suzanne Brown (Atlanta); and Alice G. Forman (Seattle) joined me with Immediate Past President Beth Allen (New York) to weigh in on the issue. We came up with some very promising ideas. The brainstorm gave rise to a strong interest in branding, public relations, and social media centered around Annual Confer- ence, professional development, workshops, and demonstrations. The ideas include: earned educa- tion credit at colleges and univer- sities, new chapter development, greater leveraging of our heritage programs (Legacy, M.F.K. Fisher, Global Culinary Initiative, Green Tables) and more. Some ideas can and, in some cases, are being addressed within the normal operating budget. Others seem perfect for the fund, but will likely take some time. But, our diligence will pay off. As Past President Suzanne Brown said, “Objectives, strategies, and tactics for the Brock Circle funds will give us the tools needed to better market and differentiate LDEI from other culinary organizations”. John—heritage dishes that descended er’s kitchen cleaning collards, spinach, In keeping with the trust placed in the Board to from African slave kitchens. The and kale; it was completed at the manage the fund, we are working very carefully and Coastal Georgia chef/farmer will Culinary Institute of America, Hyde deliberately to determine where the money is best discuss agricultural contributions Park, where he earned two degrees. spent and where it can do the most good—for the of Africans in the Lowcountry and Kevin is chef instructor at the Culi- most people. Currently, we are looking into part- share his culinary expertise on various nary Institute of Charleston within nerships for professional development among our components of Gullah-Geechee cook- Trident Technical College. His work members and educational opportunities that will add ing from “the roots up.” Matthew is a embraces delicate French cuisine, yet meaningful experiences at Conference, which can be proponent of the seed-to-table move- reveals sumptuous soul food flair. shared across the entire membership. At some point, ment; his mantra is, “fresh, organic, Kevin discussion will include the we will reach out to the full Brock Circle member- and local.” He and his sister, Althea development of Charleston’s Gullah ship for their thoughts. In the meantime, if you are Raiford, are the sixth generation to cuisine, its influences, ingredients and a member and would like to weigh in with ideas, own certified, organic Gillard Farm. dishes. “Trident Tech has an endur- please email me at [email protected] with the Located near Brunswick, it was estab- ing interest in Gullah culture,” says subject line, “BC BIG IDEA.” lished by their third great-grandfather Marion Sullivan As a reminder, current guidelines dictate that we in 1874. The siblings are testing (Charleston). In 2009, Kevin ran a test kitchen at the spend only 40 percent of funds collected annual- strains of Carolina Gold Rice and the ly. That amount varies greatly and is slowly growing original southern peanut—introduced college for Chef Charlotte Jenkins’ acclaimed cookbook, Gullah Cuisine. over time. I am pleased to report that Brock Circle by Africans to North America in the currently has 44 members (including chapters); In April, he was chef-coordinator 1700s. Mathew graduated from The it is strong and growing. If you, or your chapter, for Nat Fuller’s Feast, the illustrious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde hope to join us in creating lasting legacies through Park, NY and has a certificate in Eco- re-creation of an 1865 Charleston the Brock Circle, please access the Brock Circle logical Horticulture from UC Santa banquet hosted by African-American information online at LDEI.org or call Greg Jewell Cruz and The Center for Agroecology chef Nat Fuller at his restaurant, The and request a form. We thank all of our current and Sustainable Food Systems. Bachelor’s Retreat. It was the first members and for those who have not yet made the The culinary training of Chef occasion to bring black and white decision to join, please know that the more the KEVIN E.
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