Thematic Path in Municipality Žiri and Gorenja
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Thematic path in municipality Žiri and Gorenja vas - Poljane The theme path along the Rapallo Border is intended to acquaint visitors with the time fascists) and on the Yugoslav side by border THE BORDER guards and customs officers. Along the border between the 1st and 2nd World War, which there were a number of fortifications which due to the establishment of the Rapallo The Treaty of Rapallo was signed on the 12th protected the border and hinterlands – after November 1920 in the Italian town of Rapal- the year 1932 on the Italian side the so-called' Border, also left its mark in our towns and lo. The treaty required the handover of a third Alpine Wall', after 1939 on the Yugoslav side villages. You will discover what life was like of the territory of Slovenia, which formerly the so-called Rupnik Line. belonged to Yugoslavia, to Italy, dramatically for the residents who lived with, and along, changing life in Sovodenj and its surroundings. The minds of those guarding the border were not only filled with their the border in the areas of Žiri and Sovodenj. Neighbours, relatives and friends immediately duties of protecting their homeland. Attractions developed between became citizens of two kingdoms – the King- them and local girls. One local man who, during the time of the border A border permit allowing movement along and over the border. dom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later lived on the Italian side, learnt Italian. An Italian soldier asked him to translate a love letter which one of the local girls had written to him. Life along the border also offered a number of However, the 'translator' also rather liked the girl so he translated opportunities for additional earnings, for whi- it somewhat differently to how it had been written. Therefore the ch it was necesssary to have plenty of courage soldier never found out what she had really written and the girl and cunning. The smuggling of contraband came into effect. never did get her sweetheart. Contraband smugglers secretly smuggled go- The border also influenced religious life and the ods, most often at night, from Yugoslavia to schooling of children. The residents of some those parts of the border that were unsupervi- of the villages along the border were forcibly sed, where locals from the Primorska side rece- separated from their parishes and graveyards, ived them. The border was guarded by border and had to attend mass and bury their dead guards and customs officers who resourceful on the Italian side. Children had to attend Ita- locals were sometimes able to outwit. Cof- Yugoslavian border guards at the main boundary stone No.41 in Ravne pri Žireh, behind them a frontier guardhouse. lian schools, where they were prohibited from fee, flour, tobacco, saccharin, and sugar were You can choose how much of the path you wish to walk, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia) and the Kingdom using the Slovene language. Residents required smuggled onto the Italian side; some of the depending upon your ability and how much time you have of Italy. The entire Rapallo Border, which ran a permit to allow them to cross the border. more daring even smuggled horses and other from Peča, above the village of Rateče, over Tri- livestock. There were less goods coming into available. The entire path from Žiri to 'Vrhovec' in Podlanišče glav to Rijeka, was 244km in length and was Yugoslavia; textiles, wine, rice, tropical fruit, is 46km in length (9-10 hours). There are also several shorter divided into 70 sections. At the start of each umbrellas, mercury and more. routes, some of which are circular. The circular path from Žiri to section a main boundary stone stood – cippo Mrzli vrh and back is 13km in length (4 hours). Those wishing principale - whilst smaller boundary stones to set off from Sovodenj can walk to Mrzli vrh, to boundary were placed between the main ones. In the area The harshest period which residents experienced was during the 2nd stone No.38 (14km, 4 hours round trip) or, in the opposite of this theme path there are five main bounda- World War. During attacks and bombardments, people used to seek shelter ry stones numbered from 35 - 39. direction, to boundary stone No. 36 in Nova Oselica (6km, 2 in abandoned mining tunnels or in other hidden places. hours round trip). This route can also be extended to boundary The border was guarded by the military and You can find out more about these stories stone No.35 which stands at 'Pr'Vrhovc' in Podlanišče (14km, police from both sides. The villages along the about smuggling if you walk the path accom- 4.5hours, returning to the main road for Cerkno-Sovodenj in border were inhabited by outsiders – Italian panied by a guide. Podlanišče). border officials (customers officers, 'gafovci', The restored main boundary stone No.35. Many of the homes in a 100-250 metre band undary stone No.39 which stands in the forest The town has long been marked by various borders. On the ridge of the along the Yugoslav side were demolished and beneath the village of Breznica. people moved away. A wide barbed wire fence, western edge of the Žiri basin, is the divide between the Black Sea and the several metres high, was place along the length Adriatic Sea. In Roman times, the border between the provinces of Italy and After a look at the boundary stone, backtrack a of the border and landmines were laid beneath Pannonia ran from here with its defence system of fortications ' Claustra few metres and continue on the path towards it. The Germans were sure that this meant the the village of Breznica, which in the period Alpium Iuliarum'. In the middle ages, a border between the Bishops of border was completely closed but they were between both world wars, was a part of the soon to be disappointed. The landmines didn't Freising and the Lords of the Tolmin and Idrija Territories. Kingdom of Italy. In the centre of the village is cause problems for ex-Austrian soldiers and the Church of St. Kancijan. Beside the village Breznica. other daring contraband smugglers. Within a The path begins at the Žiri Museum, which is are two caverns, which were built to serve the few weeks it was already possible to step over situated in Old Žiri. As an introduction, visi- needs of the Italian border employees (gafov- No.38. Alternatively, descend to the lower the barbed wire fence in places. Sadly the bor- tors can take a look at the exhibition and mul- ci). From here, the way to Mrzli vrh continue house 'Pr' Belin' (Mrzli Vrh 8), beneath which der and mines also sowed the seeds of death. timedia presentation 'Welcome, Lovers of For- on the marked mountain trail. If however you you can rejoin the path that leads past boun- With the abolition of the Rapallo Border, on tifications', which is about the heritage of the wish to see more of the boundary stones, keep dary stones to the neighbouring house 'Pr' the 15th September 1947, Primorska was re- Rapallo Border. The marked walking path leads following the signs for the theme path. On lea- Erjavc'. Above it, stands the main boundary turned to its homeland. through Tabor and upwards towards Breznica. ving the forest at the foothills of Mrzli vrh and stone No.38. Nearby the beginnings of a new To the right you will see a hill, Žirk, where, ac- beginning to ascend, there are beautiful views mountain hut are being built on the site of cording to legend, the wicked dragon 'Lintvern' of the surrounding hills and mountains. Con- the former Yugoslav border guardhouse. From THE Path ALONG THE lives. Approximately 150 metres above the last tinue the path along the meadows over 'Lon- here you can return to the start in Žiri through house, there are views across the valley behind cmanova Sivka' via the marked mountain trail the Jarčja Valley and past Ledinica, where the RapaLLO BORDER – Žirk. Here, there is also a shrine, a cross, which (987m). Prior to the 2nd World War, in close Church of St Anne is located. Alternatively, the the owner of the lower house 'Pr'Pavlač' erec- proximity, stood a barracks of the MVSN (Mili- walk can be continued towards Sovodenj. From Žiri ted in 1925 in gratitude that his home remain- zia Volontaria per la Sicurezza ed on the Yugoslav side of the border. The path Nazionale), which During the time of the Rapallo Border, Žiri was along the Rapallo Border then veers left along was demolished SOVODENJ a town along the border. Following the establi- a track, past intermediary boundary stones. after the war. shment of the border, the Municipality of Žiri Ascend through the forest to the meadow and From Loncma- The village of Sovodenj got its name from the and its parish lost 12 settlements to the King- continue towards the slope. On reaching a fo- nova Sivka a confluence of three streams, the Javorščica, dom of Italy. rested tractor path, turn right to the main bo- short-cut leads Podosojnščica and Podjelovščica, which all con- past the 'Pr' Vodičari' farm to the main bo- undary stone View of Žiri. The boundary stone beside the path from Mrzli vrh towards Breznica. Sovodenj. verge here at the bottom of the basin. It is inte- to buy materials, 'Bata' shoes and export toba- the first house 'Pr' Zarobarju' ascend to the left resting to note that following heavy downpours cco. The shop operated until 1942. on a track to the top of the hill.