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Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh

Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh

& markets inChhattisgarh’sBastarregionmarkets traditionalive. showtribalcommunitieskeeping garh, Panna (site ofKipling’s Pachmarhi, andtiger-filled nationalparks. Bandhav- View thecatsfromanelephantatKanha, a ‘lostworld’atmosphere matchedonlybyMandu’splateau-top tombs. the Agra–Varanasi route issecludedOrchha,where riverside cenotaphsandpalacesexude writhingacrossits10th-century temples.erotic carvings Anotherhistoricalhotspotnear and ’slavishJaiVilas Palace. isfamousforthe Amongthetemple towns, holy island,Omkareshwar. rockpaintings sites Historical includethemillennia-oldBhimbetka River, oneoftheseven sacred rivers. There’s alsoUjjain,oneoftheseven holycities,andthe monuments. Amore lively formofreligion isattheghats(steps orlandings)ontheNarmada more thanitstraintracks;ashameformore reasons thanhaving totrainitfortwodays. still asignificantchunkofmosttrainridesfromDelhitocentralIndia,yetmanytravellers seelittle Madhya Pradesh(MP) wasIndia’slargest state untiltribal awayin 2000.It’s Chhattisgarh broke Chhattisgarh & Pradesh Madhya 660 © LonelyPlanetPublications For outdoorenthusiaststhere are 1000m-pluspeaks,forests athillstation andwaterfalls ManduandSanchihave IslamicandBuddhist someofIndia’sfinestHindu, Khajuraho,

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Climbabove theplainsathistorichillstation oftheIndianjunglein the Eyewiththeking Watchahuge,garlanded chariotbeingdraggedthrough thestreets of See Gaze acrossthesacred NarmadaRiver at Jointhesadhus (spiritualmen)and Blush at growth in andpalacesrisingfromtheunder- kiosks) sites ofKumbhMela,and finest relics leftinIndia bytheAfghans capital of Chhattisgarh’s tribal Bastarregion, during theanimistcelebration of -On-Wheels tour bus theOmsymbolifseenfromabovethat theholyislandlookslike among the beforecentury temple coolingoff carvings, in theholycities (pilgrims) offering Pachmarhi Kanha national parks, Bhopal’s 79) and (p709) Khajuraho’s Orchha 63) and (p693) ( p682 Princesscruiseboatorthe andmuseums fromtheLake ) mosques,lakes Panna ( p670 ), the‘hiddenplace’ Bandhavgarh (small domedMughal (p681), ( p673 ) erotic10th- Mandu (prayer)attheghats ( p695 ), oneofthe Jungle Book Pench ( p702 ) tothe ( p711) (p708), yatris (p701) ) andPench. The distinctive craftworkandcolourful

Omkareshwar Maheshwar Ujjain Mandu ( p700 ) andponderthelocals’claim Omkareshwar Bhopal Pachmarhi Jagdalpur Orchha National Park Bandhavgarh Pench TigerReserve Jagdalpur Khajuraho Dussehra Panna NationalPark Kanha NationalPark (p713), (p663) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 661 km 135,000 sq Area: Raipur Capital: Main language: to March When to go: September 39.6 million Population: 308,000 sq km Area: Bhopal Capital: language: Hindi Main to March When to go: September million Population: 20.8 „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS FACTS FAST Pradesh Madhya „ „ „ „ „ Chhattisgarh „

MP Tourism places, often in choice loca- in choice MP Tourism places, often Travelling northeast from , the northeast from Mumbai, the Travelling Many hotels in Eastern Madhya Pradesh and in Eastern Madhya hotels Many state’s other useful line passes through Itarsi, and ), Katni p707 text, (see the boxed and to Allahabad, Varanasi Satna en route lines run into Chhat- Howrah. From Katni, tisgarh, Orissa and . Chhattisgarh ask guests to leave a deposit. Chhattisgarh ask guests to leave Getting There & Away AIR ), Kha- p668 ), Domestic flights serve Gwalior ( p700 ( ), p687 ( ), Bhopal p681 juraho ( ). p712 ) and Raipur ( p707 ( Jabalpur TRAIN way to navigate a better Train is generally from Pradesh than road. Travelling Madhya most significant north to south on the state’s line, it comes from northwest via and passes throughand Agra, (see the (see) and Bhopal the boxed p670 text, boxed from forking at Itarsi, ), before p687 text, (Bombay) and to it heads to Mumbai where Hyderabad and Chennai (Madras). are plenty of budget hotels, and midrange and midrange hotels, budget plenty of are rooms. The budget some have often hotels the only difference is often air-conditioning rooms. and non-AC between AC good, if a little pricey. Rooms can tions, are or centrally through the website be booked the head office, normally include and prices breakfast. has Bhopal 0755- %

(MT Tourism; •• History & CHHATTISGARH PRADESH MADHYA 011-23341187; www.mptourism.com)

(dam) Bhoj built to create the city’s built to create (dam) Bhoj pal

With the States Reorganisation Act of 1956, Act of Reorganisation With the States From AD 950 to 1050 the Chandelas’ nimble- The Mauryas were followed by the Sun- followed were The Mauryas Khajuraho and Orchha is limited but there but there is limited and Orchha Khajuraho ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION accommodation outside Backpacker-style on tours and locations, and for booking MP on tours Tourism hotels. tions and airports; in the cities it will book cars tions and airports; in the cities it will book cars is usefulfor you. The website for information offices of varying usefulness in all towns and offices of train sta- major at most cities, and counters Madhya Pradesh Tourism 2774340, Delhi Madhya Pradesh. In 2000 Chhattisgarh ( p712 ) p712 Pradesh. In 2000 Chhattisgarh ( Madhya became an independent state. Information several former states were combined to form several former states were centuries, the region experienced continuing experienced centuries, the region struggles between Hindu and Muslim rulers some de- was the scene of ), and Mandu p43 ( eventually The Mughals were clashes. cisive ), who en- p46 ( superseded by the Marathas they fell before joyed most power in ) to the British, for who the p662 Gwalior ( ) of p667 text, (see the boxed powerful allies. were some 85 temples in Khajuraho ( p673 ) with p673 ( in Khajuraho some 85 temples erotic scenes. Between 16th the 12th and two lakes. the façades of enlivened sculptors fingered its original moniker, Bhojapal, which refers refers which Bhojapal, its original moniker, to the Indore Indore ( p698 ), from ). The state capital’s name derives Mandu p682 ( p702 ) ( and Bhopal the Parmaras reigned in southwest Madhya in southwest Madhya reigned the Parmaras who ruled over – notablyPradesh Raja Bhoj, cut at Udaigiri ( p692 ) – before the Huns ram- ) – before p692 cut at Udaigiri ( ago Around 1000 years across the state. paged gas and the Guptas ( p41 ) – Chandragupta II p41 gas and the Guptas ( ) and had the caves p695 ( ruled from Ujjain emperor (see the boxed text, p41 ) ) p41 text, (see the boxed emperor Ashoka from Malwa empire controlled the Mauryan ). p689 ( Stupa Great and built ’s tell of a cultural succession through the late through a cultural succession the late of tell history recorded the start to of Stone Age BC,in the 3rd century when the Buddhist at Bhimbetka ( p688 ) and Pachmarhi ( p693 ), p693 ( ) and Pachmarhi p688 ( at Bhimbetka They than 10,000 years. back more date which their mark on the region historically known historically known the region their mark on starting the rock paintings with as Malwa, History History made Indian history all phasesVirtually of lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH Reserve andMandu are abysmal. Reserve notably Khajuraho, Kanha NationalPark, Pench Tiger bag. Theroadsinremote areas such asaround dark unlessnear-death experiences are your more areas, mountainous avoid travelling after on abasisof 20km/hand,particularlyinthe appalling andChhattisgarh’sare worse. Work Madhya Pradesh’s pothole-riddenroadsare Getting Around and 2ndclass/chair carforshort journeys. chapter are sleeper/3AC/2AC forlongjourneys is togoviaAgra. is onlyonedirect trainaday;theotheroption via Ujjain theboxed (see text, p698 ), butthere 662 50 MADHYA PRADESH&CHHATTISGARH (200km) To Mumbai (200km) To Ahmedabad Two linesrunfromIndore toJaipur, one Unless otherwise mentioned,faresUnless otherwise inthis Bagh OTENMDY RDS • Gair MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Gwalior 3 Mandu 4 R AJSTHN Ujjain Maheshwar Kota M AHRST Indore Omkareshwar Bhimbetka Bhopal 12 Biaora Madhav (Shivpuri) Shivpuri National Park Sanchi 3 Dholpur Timurni Betul Chanderi Agra Obaidullaganj Bhojpur Itarsi Udayapur Vidisha Datia Chhindwara Gwalior Pench Tiger Pipariya 26 Sonagir Lalitpur Pachmarhi P RADESH Reserve Orchha Jhansi A NDHR P RADESH 7 M ADHY 12 Dhubela Sagar Narsinghpur Khajuraho Nagpur Jabalpur Mahoba try’s most revered families. of theScindias, oneofhistoric seat the coun- Palace, home of is the theScindiaMuseum, un-touristy part of centralIndia. Jai Vilas around thehillis agoodintroductiontoan Triangle, theslow-pacedtownsprawling travellers makingadetour fromtheGolden ‘the pearlamongstfortresses inIndia’.For as emperor described bytheMughal hilltopfort, Gwalior isfamousforitsmedieval % GWALIOR PRADESH NORTHERN MADHYA National Khawasa Seoni Panna Park 25 7 Khatia 0751 /pop826,919 Katni 6 Ramnagar 86 Amarpatan Panna Balaghat Umaria National Baihar Ajaigarh Kanha Park Chitrakoot Tala Mukki

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t Bhoramdeo C HATISGR a National Park Bandhavgarh Kanger Valley r National Park Kawardha 27 Jagdalpur Kanker Dhamtari 43 Allahabad Kondagaon 120miles 200km 0 0 28 Chitrakot Sirpur Falls Bilaspur P RADESH Visakhapatnam (National Park) Udanti Sanctuary Bheemunipatnam U TAR (National Park) Sanctuary Barnawapara Varanasi lonelyplanet.com Ambikapur O RISA B IHAR Bay of 5 2 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 663 is an 9am- h dawn-dusk) 4070777; 2340370; 6A Gandhi h ( on the that the % 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Near ( % ( fort 2336291; Bada Chowk; h % (MLB Rd; per hr Rs 30; ( train station 4010555; Tansen Residency

% ( 10am-5pm); 8.30am-10.30pm) Internet access. 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) Cashes h The train station is on the east side of town. The train station is on the east side of the train station. Sights Sights town, the rocks 100m above out of Exploding the 3km-long hilltop with ringed its circular towers imposing site, was killed ( p669 ). p669 Rani Jhansi was killed ( of of touts will meet you with their choice Taxi so walk to the main commission-paying hotel road and hail an autorickshaw. Information Stop Cyber Zone Fun MP Tourism Post office State Bank of India it was in the final assault Orientation Gwalior sprawls beneath its fort, which to the west. The ridge crowns the massive the old town clings to the northeast base of fort. To the south is the new town, Lashkar, Chowk. Jayaji area, with its market h h in the train station foyer It has an ATM travellers cheques. which accepts MasterCard and Visa. 7.30pm) Books MP Tourism hotels and cars. Rd; 1486– ( (Apr/May; Maheshwar, p701 ) Her birthday) Her with palanquin (b 1725) is celebrated p701 (Apr/May; Maheshwar, (Nov; Sanchi, p689 ) Buddhist monks and pilgrims of two of see relics flock to p689 (Nov; Sanchi, (Nov/Dec; Gwalior, opposite ) Four-day music festival attracting) Four-day music festival musicians and classical opposite (Nov/Dec; Gwalior, (Feb/Mar; Khajuraho, p673 ) Week-long event dancers of Indian classical the cream with ) Week-long p673 Khajuraho, (Feb/Mar; (28 Oct; Jhansi, p669 ) Christian pilgrims converge on St Jude’s Church to plead their case to the p669 (28 Oct; Jhansi,

(Feb/Mar; Pachmarhi, p693 ) Up to 100,000 Shaivite pilgrims,) sadhus (spiritual men) and Adivasis p693 Pachmarhi, (Feb/Mar; (28 Feb; Jhansi, p669 ) Music, arts and dance. p669 Jhansi, (28 Feb;

PRADESH •• Gwalior NORTHERN MADHYA (Oct; Jagdalpur, p713 ) Nothing to do with Ramayana, god- is dedicated to local but this 75-day festival p713 (Oct; Jagdalpur, (Dussehra; Sep/Oct; Ujjain, p695 ) Celebrated with particular on the large pillars in Harsid- Lamps fervour. p695 (Dussehra; Sep/Oct; Ujjain, , remembered for his love of music and music of for his love , remembered

) singers from all over India; free performancessingers from all over India; free musician’s tomb. at the great usually staged are Buddha’s early disciples, Sari Puttha and MahaBuddha’s early disciples, Sari Puttha in Stupa 3 in 1853). (discovered Moggallana performing enclosure. amid floodlit temples in the western patron saint of lost causes. patron saint of lost causes. dess Danteshwari. with eight days of (immense) chariot-pulling It culminates around the streets. (enclosed seats carried cultural activities on four men’s shoulders) processions through the town and including music and dance. Chethiyagiri Vihara Festival Vihara Chethiyagiri Festival Music Tansen Dussehra St Jude of Feast Ahilyabai ’s birthday Navratri Festival of Dance of Festival Mela Shivaratri FESTIVALS IN MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH & CHHATTISGARH PRADESH IN MADHYA FESTIVALS Festival Jhansi (tribal people) attend celebrations at Mahadeo Temple. Participants(tribal bring attend celebrations at Mahadeo people) symbolic tridents hike and up Chauragarh Temple. Hill plant them by the shrine. to dhi Mandir lit. are

During the Indian Uprising in 1857, Maha- Over the next 50 years the fort changed Over the fort changed the next 50 years In 1398 the Tomar dynasty came to power. In 1398 the Tomar dynasty came to power. finally defeated rebel leader, Tantia Topi, and leader, Tantia rebel finally defeated raja Jayajirao remained loyal to the British but remained Jayajirao raja and in mid-1858 the fort his troops rebelled, some final dramatic events was the scene of the British the whole uprising. Near here of British. Finally it passedto the , one with clans to be honoured noble only five of salute (see by the British a 21-gun the boxed text, p667 ). hands several times, including twice to the architecture. After his death the fort fell to his death the fort fell After architecture. Mughal pos- Ibrahim Lodi; two centuries of by followed, ending with its capture session in 1754. the Marathas its ascendancy under Raja Man Singh its ascendancy under Raja Man Gwalior Fort became the focus of continual Gwalior Fort became the focus of and reached powers clashes with neighbouring number 84 changed his name to Tej Karan Karan his name to Tej number 84 changed and, naturally, lost his kingdom. power as long they retained the name Pal. the name Pal. power as long they retained His next 83 descendants did just that, but fort). Renaming him Suhan Pal, he foretold he foretold fort). Renaming him Suhan Pal, in that Suhan’s descendants would remain Kund tank (which still remains in Gwalior Kund tank still remains (which Gwalior’s legendary beginning stems from the beginning stems Gwalior’s legendary hermit Gwalipa curing the chieftain, from Suraj Sen,using water leprosy Suraj of History lonelyplanet.com 1516 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 664 Mumbai (1225km) To Shivpuri(114km); 4 6 1 3 2 5 GWALIOR 4 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Man SinghPalace...... Karan Palace...... Jehangir Mahal...... Jauhar Kund...... (see10) Jai VilasPalace...... ...... Gujari Mahal...... (see19) Chatarbhuj Mandir...... UTI BankATM...... State BankofIndiaATM...... State BankofIndia...... Post Office...... MP Tourism...... Fun StopCyberZone...... oamdGu asnTms.C3 Mohammed Gaus&TansenTombs.. OTENMDY RDS • Gair MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Gwalior Bada Chowk Chowk Jayaji

NH3 La

Agra (116km) Dholpur (60km); To Airport(9km); xm Bus Stand Bus

AC iganj Sarafa

Lashkar

Sagar Tal

New Rd

Rd Daulat Rd

ganj

Lohia Bazaar 32 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Urvai Gate High Court Rd Court High C3 C3 C3 C5 C3 C3 C5 D4 A6 D5 D5 C5 SLEEPING uem...... C3 Museum...... Hotel Mayur...... Hotel GwaliorRegency...... Hotel DM...... Central Park...... Vikram Mandir...... (see11) Ticket Counter...... Teli kaMandir...... State ArchaeologicalMuseum...... Sound-and-Light Show...... (see12) Sikh Gurdwara...... Shah JahanMahal...... (see10) ...... Scindia Museum...... (see9) Sasbahu Temples...... Rock Sculptures......

Gwalior Rd B Dalwala Bazaar

15 Sanatam Dharm Sanatam Mandir Rd Mandir Jayendra Ganj Gwalior Palace Rd Fort 20 17 ὈὈ ὈὈ 31 18 Suraj Kund 29 14 Gate Gate Club HP Garage 21 12 11 9 16 10 Hathiya Khajuraho (282km) To Jhansi(101km); Gate 7 Paur

19 Jhansi Rd Jhansi

Gwalior 8 Badalgarh 1

Rd 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 (Alamgiri Gate) Ganesh Gate& Kabutar Khana Gwalior Gate 6

D5 D5 D5 D5 C3 B4 C3 C4 B4 C4 B4 MLB Rd MLB Old Town 1km 0.5miles 0 0 Bus Stand...... Air Deccan...... (see22) Mrignayani Emporium...... Emporium...... Swad Restaurant...... Silver Saloon...... (see9) Kwality Restaurant...... Indian CoffeeHouse...... Blue Fox...... Hotel Safari...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING Usha KiranPalace...... (see9) 13 Jhansi Rd

Fort Rd 27 25 Station Train lonelyplanet.com 3 30

D Gandhi Rd Gandhi 5 Stadium (2.5km) 28 Police Manor (200m); To HotelSita 33 26 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26

23 Station Rd

2 Link

D4 D5 B5 B5 D5 C5 D4 D5 24 Rd 22 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

665 Mother-in-Law 2480011; admission Rs 2; % ( temples, rise temples, close to the

by Man Singh Palace houses Singh Palace by Man museum Daughter-in-Law 10am-5pm Sat-Thu) Built by Tomar ruler Man Singh between Man Built by Tomar ruler Here imprisoned his brother, Aurangzeb Here the sub- to help you navigate Bring a torch Of equal attraction to overhot visitors are the are visitors Of equal attraction to overhot fans. oversize Other Palaces the palace leads to more north of gates A set of is bound to be an unofficial guide ruins. There all for Rs 50. who’ll reveal ‘speaking tubes’ built into the walls and used by the Mughals cells. as prison Murad, and slowly poisoned him with opium, finishing him him mad before drove which in the floor with the cage dungeon The off. the grisly deed, it but the scene of looks like was actually a bathing chamber. torches have gloom. The attendants terranean inside the lost somewhere often but they are building with other tourists. Museum The small h and carvingssculptures from around the fort. Aurangzeb’s roaming band of image defac- image of Aurangzeb’s roaming band to the restricted vandalism is fortunately ers, lower levels. Singh Palace Man to describe it: an Whimsical is the only way with a frieze of imperial palace decorated yellow ducks! These and mosaic – tiling of and crocodiles in blue, yellow elephants, tigers identity of its alternative it – give and green Palace). (Painted Chit Mandir early 1486 and 1516, this fine example of two open consists of Hindu architecture courts surrounded by apartments on two levels. Below ground lie another two storeys by for hot weather, connected constructed Har Gobind, who Nur Jahan imprisoned in in imprisoned Nur Jahan who Gobind, Har Singh Palace. Man Sasbahu Temples or Sasbahu, The Mayan-like and similar in style and date are wall. They eastern to 11th centuries. Mother-in- from the 9th Law with an ornately , to is dedicated the carved the deity over of base and figures support the pillars entrances; four gigantic with carvings. layered roof, The smaller heavy is also to Shiva, dedicated Daughter-in-Law, by Once damaged with sculptures. stacked ,

(Indian/

Adinath . near Man Singh near Man tirthankar, tirthankar, 2480011; Indian/foreigner 2480011; Indian/foreigner tirthankar (the 24 great Jain teach- Jain (the 24 great % ( dawn-dusk) sound-and-light show

Hindi 7.30pm, English 8.30pm Oct-Jun) h PRADESH •• Gwalior NORTHERN MADHYA h , the 22nd tirthankars ticket counter Nemnath The modern gold-topped gurdwara (Sikh From Gwalior Gate on the east side it’s a From Gwalior Gate The images are numbered in white lettering lettering in white numbered are The images There are several fort, in the historical sites are There A There are two approaches to the fort. From two approaches are There An atmospheric temple) nearby is dedicated to Sikh nearby is dedicated hero Guru temple) doorway. and Indo-Aryan decorations. Dedicated to to decorations. Dedicated and Indo-Aryan with is covered Vishnu, the Pratihara temple and a tops its 5m-high sculptures est monument in the compound. Its hybrid roof square Dravidian a design incorporates the British after the Indian Uprising of 1857, the Indian Uprising of the British after is the old- this 30m-high, 8th-century temple ka Mandir Teli shop by as a soda factory and coffee Used of ing sculpture of the first the first of ing sculpture No 22 is a 10m-high seatedwhile image figure at the base. Image No 20 is a 17m-high No 20 is at the base. stand- Image ers), defaced and castrated by Babur’s Muslim defaced and castrated ers), repaired. recently army in 1527 but more from Urvai Mostly cut into the cliff face Gate. nude in the mid-15th century, they represent of figures on the way up from Gwalior Gate, the most on the way up from Gwalior Gate, those on the long ascent up are impressive Rock Sculptures Rock Sculptures carved sculptures into the rock are While there is held nightly in the open-air amphitheatre. is held nightly open-air amphitheatre. in the now occupied by the pres- is which of much established by Scindia School, tigious private for the Scindia in 1897 Madhavrao Indian nobility. education of foreigner Rs 40/100; foreigner Rs 5/100, video Rs 25; steep 1km slog uphill to the fort compound. up to Urvai driven The best option is to be and then walk down to Gwalior Gate. Gate the west a steep road passes through Urvai by be approached likely you will where Gate, allowed Only taxis are a guide and a driver. past the gate. views across the white and blue walls of the of and blue walls the white views across below. old town far among the butterflies and dragonflies flitting and dragonflies flitting among the butterflies through offering ruins and shady spots the tiles as turquoise as the skies above. Once up turquoisetiles as the skies above. as day, of at any time for a wander great it’s there, lonelyplanet.com Palace sells tickets for the monuments, and sells tickets Palace ). right for the small museum ( another ticket MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH Rajput womenofRajput theharem committed from the fort.Theconvicts were rewarded Maharaja Jayajirao in1874using prisoners Palace theboxed (see text, opposite ), builtby 35 roomsof the Scindias’ opulent Jai Vilas Rs 30/80; This JAI VILASPALACE &SCINDIAMUSEUM Cavesplus copiesof frescoes. Bagh hanjika Jain sculptures, includingthefamed rated. There’s alarge collectionof Hinduand rani (wife), thepalaceisnowratherdeterio- the 15thcenturybyMan forhis favourite Singh jari Mahal, uphillwestof Gwalior Gate. Builtin era/video Rs20/50; The State Archaeological Museum Gate appeared. The bottomandfirst gate is (Archer’s gate, Gate), Bansur second hasdis- Man Singh, uncle,whiletheBadal Singh’s and townwere named. temple Kabutar interesting Mandir century Vishnu shrineknownas the entrancetopalace. fifth gate, sixth gate, Hawa Gate, nolonger exists;the of thepathdowntoGwaliorGate. Thetop, ofA series gates punctuates thewornsteps EntranceNortheast across Gwaliortothe moundlike hills. for thedizzyingviewsof theGujariMahal and Mahal are attheirbases, another tank the 1232. king of Delhi,whenhedefeated in theRaja avoid rapebytheforcesof , theslave har next toanoldjailhouse. the narrow,elongated two-storey World WarI.Narrowgalleriesconnectitto Mandir, withitsopenhall,wasdestroyedin 666 century. Nearbyisasmallpigeon or house, The thirdgate is The 16th-centuryHindutemple Vikram Descending tothenorth,youpassa9th- At thenorthernendof theenclosure, with The tank (ritualmasssuicidebyimmolation)to (AlamgiriGate) datingfrom1660. museum OTENMDY RDS • Gair MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Gwalior museum and tothehermitGwalipa,after whomfort (Temple of theFour-Armed). The

(an exceptionally carved female figure) (anexceptionallycarved Khana h Hathiya Paur Mahal Jahan Shah 10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue) Ganesh

Jauhar Kund ( %

(Indian/foreigner Rs30/200,camera/video , andasmallfour-pillared h 2350743; Indian/foreigner Rs5/30,cam- 10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Gate Badalgarh (ElephantGate) isnow marksthespotwhere was builtinthe15th , chiefly interesting occupiessome , namedafter iswithinGu- Karan Palace Karan Chatarbhuj Jehangir Jehangir Salab- Gwalior Hindu jau-

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pint-sized roomsleadingtoasmalllawnat Rs 240-600; hotel’s 1st-floor reception isgloomyandits enriches your voiceandduringtheTansen treetamarind atTansen’s grave supposedly classical music.Chewingth by andheldtobeafatherof Indian pler acquisitionofrole inBabur’s thefort. hammed Gaus Palace. Nearbyistheresplendent Old GwaliorlieseastwardsbelowMan Singh OLD TOWN in 1964. sinceitopened 50), aguideatthemuseum around thetable. that carriedafter-dinner brandyandcigars résistance, ernous diningroomdisplaysthe boards, aboatandwinecabinet.Thecav- ladies-only swimmingpoolwithdiving glass furniture tigers. andstuffed There’s a be thelargest pairintheworld. 3.5-tonnechandeliers,250-lightbulb, to said to check itcouldcopewithtwo12.5m-high, elephants were suspendedfromitsceiling court) hallweighs halfatonne. Eight the largest inAsia. with the12-yearjobof weaving thehallcarpet, dorms and proceeds upthescaleto ACdorms and proceeds rooms range of withmen-only accommodation starts alley nearthebridge Rd.Thewide onStation 850, dRs300-920; spacetoswingalangur.enough withreasonableclean enough, furniture and bar-restaurant buttheroomsare isrough, gests, andguests canjogontheroof forfree. sug- tothebusstand quieter than itscloseness and private bathroomswithallmodcons.It’s basic, shared withTVs bathroomstothose the backof thebuildingrange with fromthose DM Hotel BUDGET Sleeping by visitingsingers. autumnallookwhenstripped unseasonably festival inOctober/November ittakes onan In the same compoundisthesmaller,sim- In thesame (Rs It’s wellworthcollaringRamashankar Bizarre cut- items filltherooms:Belgian The goldpaintaroundthedurbar(royal Hotel Mayur Hotel Safari Hotel tomb

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% of a modelrailwaywithsilver train Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com )

, a Muslim saint whoplayedakey, aMuslimsaint Near the train station, this aged Nearthetrainstation, 2342083; LinkRd;rRs120-250) Tansen

( a ( % % ) Asolidchoice downaquiet 2340638; StationRd;sRs180-550,d 2325559; Padav; dmRs81,s 180- , asinger much admired e leaves of the tomb ofMo- pièce de The17 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

667 paneer bhurta masala (pancake of rice of (pancake (MLB Rd; meals Rs 75-130; (Station Rd; dishes Rs 15-65) Hotel Shelter, Tansen Rd; meals Hotel Shelter, Tansen

uttapam This popular restaurant servesThis popular restaurant 2326209; % (

With its cool blue décor, this res- curried vegetables inside a crisp pan- inside a curried vegetables 10.30am-11pm) Blue Fox Indian Coffee House Kwality Restaurant (unfermented cheese) dishes to chicken and cheese) dishes to chicken (unfermented up to 30 min- take dishes lamb curries. Many chicken – the textured to prepare utes eggplant) is among the (curry with roasted options. quicker las, mingle in the air-conditioned kingdom with las, mingle in the air-conditioned Rs 650. are Meals its heritage. of reminders Eating eating-out scene revolves Gwalior’s limited restaurants. around the hotel for a snack and real favourite The perennial servedcoffee and jackets in white by fellows Dose up with a fan-tailed headgear. ( dosa the or give cake), h up subtle curries, from a plethora of (see the boxed text, above ) in their auxiliary) in above text, (see the boxed touches, contemporary Unflinchingly palace. as the poolside aromatherapy spa and thesuch the two vil- swimming pools adjoining granite and dhal) a bite. Rs 100-150) •• Gwalior PRADESH NORTHERN MADHYA 2444000; www % ( Live like a Scindia like Live ) 2340670; Link Rd; s/d with teaux-heavy café, and teaux-heavy % The beige rooms are rooms are The beige ) ( a 4010485; Gandhi Rd; s Rs 1000-2100, 2232440; www.thecentralpark.net; s %

( % aisw ( Low-key hotel at the intersection at the intersection hotel Low-key Usha Kiran Palace Gwalior’s topnotch business hotel hotel business Gwalior’s topnotch ) Mahadji (1761–94) founded the Scindia dynasty at the time of the Mughal emperor Babaur, of the Mughal emperor Babaur, Scindia dynasty at the time Mahadji the (1761–94) founded ‘God bless the Maharaja, the music room, reads: inscribed in long to reign Scindia salute, The died in a plane crash, aborting Madhavrao (1945–2001) tragedies. borne a But the Scindias have clans. other high-caste with In classic blue-blooded intermarried the Scindias have fashion, British during the colonial era, as the with the allied themselves Also true to form, the Scindias after his three brothers were killed in the third battle of Panipat. He devised the family crest – a – a crest He devised the family killed brothers were third battle of Panipat. in the his three after when he was a child, spread to the cobra that, sun flankedas a tribute by two black cobras – sun. him from the its hood to protect us, happy and glorious, god bless the Maharaja’. Lookingover no further than the neighbouring paintings, Chippendale furniture manuscripts, miniature rooms, with their ivory figurines, these Maharajas Napoleon tables in existence, do indeed seem blessed. and one of only three member crown the family’s many political likely seen the Congress would have that political career of his meetings with political notables such Photos minister. by running for prime achievements the time he He was fond of recalling can be seen upstairs. Castro as Saddam Hussein and Fidel maharaja’s to the a nonplussed reply at night by a London policeman, who gave was stopped late of Iran.’ the Maharaja of his identity: ‘Well if you’re Pasha of Gwalior, I’m the revelation Maharaja his father into parliament, is married to the daughter Jyotiraditya (b 1971), who followed of the Maharaja of Kashmir is married to the crown prince of Baroda, . His sister and the Nepali aristocracy. family also has ties with the parties photos of walrus-moustached hunting to the palace were sepia-tinted suggest. Visitors ). A photo shows eight tigers killed in a day p668 at Shivpuri ( taken to the family estate often on display. tigers bagged in a day by Madhavrao are during Lord Harding’s visit in 1916; five BLESSED MAHARAJAS MAHARAJAS BLESSED a glimpse gives Palace, occupies a quarterScindia Museum, which neoclassical Jai Vilas of the The and Princess Beatrices. of India’s Prince Williams of the lives o Central Park Hotel Gwalior Regency 7000/9500/20,000; on call, a health club, a ga The polish continues in the low-lit bar. a chic, and fruit baskets. rooms, with crisp sheets ais with breakfast Rs 1800-2000, d Rs 2200-2400, ste Rs 3000-3900; with breakfast the grand bar-restaurant (meals Rs 65 to 225) the grand bar-restaurant desk. and a travel comforts including fridges, TVs,comforts including fridges, bath kettles, daily specials in are There tubs and hot water. not as pleasant in this as the lobby suggests establishment, but they do offer red-carpeted breakfast Rs 1800/2400; breakfast of Gandhi and Link Rds. Rooms have marble- and Link Rds. Rooms have Gandhi of TVs, bathrooms, comfy chairs, brown floored lamp shades. and matching bedspreads Hotel Manor d Rs 1150-2100) MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END with adjoining Western-style bathrooms. The with adjoining Western-style fort views. have cheapies rooftop Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book .tajhotels.com; Jayendraganj, Lashkar;.tajhotels.com; r/ste/villa from Rs has wi-fi access, currency exchange, a doctor a doctor exchange, access, currency has wi-fi MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH rant offers adizzyingrange of Indian,Chi- (Rs 250,10 hours, 8pm). hours), and there’s bustoBhopal anight hours). Ten Indore (Rs252,12 serve buses (Rs 55,three hours) andShivpuri (Rs65,2½ toAgra (Rs65,three hours), Jhansi services From the BUS 3.10pm and7pmrespectively. has dailybudget toIndore flights and Delhi at Air Deccan AIR Getting There&Away and Maheshwar saris. handicrafts andfabrics,includingChanderi Mon-Sat) (around Rs1200). images fromthetileworkonMan Palace Singh Gwalior favourite, silver boxes decorated with Mon-Sat) Emporium Arihant Shopping palace. atthe120-year-oldcourtyard totake apeek and-magenta restaurant orthepalm-shaded bite of theNepalicuisineintangerine- mealsRs550) draganj, Lashkar; soakeddough inrose-flavoured syrup). smacking surroundings. Save somespaceforthelip- dishes incontemporary andContinental nese meals Rs200) whiskeyStag sour. suchcocktails asthe‘Indian-American’ Royal breakfast barserving menuandabasement There’s anextensiveby thecircumspectstaff. big-cityambienceisonlyletdown taurant’s 668 Mrignayani Emporium Emporium Mrignayani Swad Restaurant Silver Saloon Silver a –chair/1AC; 1–Wed,Fri,Sun,Tue MAJOR TRAINSFROMGWALIOR etnto TanN ae ae(s Drto h) Departure Duration(hr) 2138 Mumbai Fare (Rs) Indore 2920 2176/2178 Howrah Delhi 2001 TrainNo&name Chennai 2616 Destination OTENMDY RDS • Sipr MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Shivpuri NearJai VilasPalace, ina specialises The state-owned chain Thestate-owned thestate’s sells

( % bus stand Hotel Landmark’s relaxingHotel restau- Landmark’s gulab jamun 2479851; CentralPark hotel;

( %

( (Link Rd) %

(Moti Mahal Rd; (Moti Mahal 2444000; Usha Kiran Palace,2444000; UshaKiran Jayen- 5011271; 47 Manik VilasColony; 5011271; 47Manik (High Court Rd; Court (High It’sworthhaving a there are half-hourly there are half-hourly (deep-fried ballsof Punjab MailExp Malwa Exp Shatabdi Grand TrunkExp Chambal Exp

h h h 4614/311 12.47am 436/1049/1351 13 10am-7pm 11am-8pm 10am-6pm)

5/3311 1 10.40am 6.50am(1) 551/1373/1818 21 11.30pm 7.07pm 563/1406/1867 24 650/960(a) 4 651/1654/2224 31 from theScindias’huntingdays–ashooting (Hindu spires) structures pavilions withMughal and Rs 10/30; the town. theboxed(see text, p667 ). memorials tothemaharajas andmaharanis kiosks),appropriately grand domed Mughal and thesite of thefamily’s Shivpuri istheoldScindiasummercapital % SHIVPURI (Rs 2to6)runonfixed routes. to 30)are plentiful.Brutish-looking tempos Cycle rickshaws (Rs 5to10)andautos(Rs10 Getting Around [email protected]; rnon-AC/AC Rs790/1190; [email protected]; reception suggests. overpriced butcleanerthanthe dishevelled 4km outof town towardsthepark.Roomsare Rs 750; No2,ABRd;rnon-AC/ACfromRs500/600,ste .co.in; ITBPGate is OctobertoMarch. takes abouttwohours. Thebestvisitingtime at thevisitors centre 6kmeastof thebusstand, tigress. The20kmcircuitof thepark,entered antelope and wildboar,andacageddeer, km parkhosts leopards, waterfowl, panthers, and pythons intheartificiallake. The355-sq- duetoallthemarshnow closed crocodiles box, huntinglodge club,the latter andsailing 40; Rs 15/150,camera/video40/300,vehicle75,guide dura 1932, isexquisitely inlaidwithintricate Madhorao 1926and Scindia,builtbetween with anetworkof walkways. The

Set informal gardens eastof thebusstand, Set There of Bank isa State IndiaATM in Tarun Residency NationalPark Madhav h 07492 /pop146,860 chhatris (marbleinlaywork). a 6-11am &3pm-dusk)

h ) is a basic hotel next to MM Hospital, isabasichotel nexttoMMHospital, 8am-noon &3-8pm)

( % , facingeach otheracrossapool 221412; admissionRs2;camera/video (

% 508257; tarunresidencyvp@yahoo Tourist Village Tourist isscattered with relics

( % are walk-in marble 222350; Indian/foreigner lonelyplanet.com chhatris

( % (small, sikharas 223760; a pietra in- ) to MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

Feast Feast 669 10am- 2441267; 10am- h % h ( 2442325; Indian/for- 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, % still bears signs of signs of still bears ( h

2330319; Elite Rd; 2330319; Elite Rd; Hotel Veerangana % ( 0510-2330035; admission Rs 2, camera 2442622; dawn-dusk) (Shivpuri hr Rs 20; Rd; per % % h ( , a locally organised programme , a locally organised 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed every10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2nd

( (28 October), when thousands of (28 October), when thousands of h 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, closed every10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, 2nd Sun) h museum

train station The British incarcerated the captured free- the captured The British incarcerated Near the flag turret is a parapet, over which which is a parapet, over Near the flag turret the second cannon made there’s Elsewhere, closed every and 2nd Sat) Has information about Agra . Shivpuri Rd; Sat); Lakshmibai, cricketers and politicians. Lakshmibai, cricketers Festivals & Events Jhansi Festival music, arts and dance, commences on 28 of Jhansi is also known for the February. of St Jude them from the battlements, the victorious them from the battlements, the victorious a wall with slits for ma- rebuilt British later guns. chine jail and buried three in a dingy dom fighters two Muslims and a Hindu, deceased fighters, a in the compound. They built themselves and left standing the tem- church blue-spired to Shiva. ple dedicated MUSEUM STATE This Rs 10; Rani and portraits of terracotta sculptures, JHANSI FORT FORT JHANSI Bir Singh Deo Built in 1613 by Maharaja Orchha, of eigner Rs 5/100; place within its the blood-letting that took was inhabited which double walls and moat, some 100) can tell by crocodiles. Guides (Rs colourful tales. the fleeing Rani Lakshmibai with her adopted The her horse. behind her, rode son mounted died, but the story still horse is said to have seems looking at the steep rocky incredible slope 15m below. using eight in 1787 met- in India, constructed als, and a German gun used machine by the on poured had boiling water British. Having Sify Cyber CaféSify Cyber State India Bank of Uttar Tourism Pradesh Sights 10pm) Below National Bakery.10pm) Below 4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Cashes major currencies, 4pm Mon-Fri, currencies, 10am-1pm Sat) Cashes major day. cheques up to Rs 10,000 per and Amex travellers train station) accepts Visa and (opposite the The ATM MasterCard. below the fort is a ragbag of central Indian below the fort is a ragbag of manuscripts, paintings, illustrated miniature 10am- h 2442622; % ( PRADESH •• Jhansi NORTHERN MADHYA

0517 / pop 420,665 To get about and explore the park, hire a park, hire the about and explore To get A daily passenger train between Shivpuri

Buses leave regularly for Jhansi (Rs 52, three three for Jhansi (Rs 52, regularly Buses leave Madhya Pradesh Tourism Information Information

Orientation Orientation road is the spine of The Shivpuri–Khajuraho the the town. The fort is 1km to the north of the train station 2km southwest and centre, the bus station 3km east. retook Jhansi while the rebel forces quarrelled forces quarrelled Jhansi while the rebel retook The rani fled to Gwalior. among themselves. In a fatal last stand she rode out against the British disguised as a man and subsequently Indian Independence. became a heroine of Jhansi’s rebellion. The British contingent here here The British contingent Jhansi’s rebellion. year they but the following was massacred, patronage if the ruler died without a male died without a male if the ruler patronage heir). During the Indian Uprising four years Ranilater, Lakshmibai of at the forefront was the British (a controversial law allowed them the British (a controversial any under their over to take When a raja died in 1853, his widow and suc- When a raja cessor Rani by Lakshmibai was forcibly retired but Jhansi today is mostly used by travellers as a but Jhansi today is mostly used by travellers and Khajuraho. transit point for Orchha History as Phoolan Devi,as Phoolan the ‘Bandit Queen’. Jhansi fort to the town’s turbulent history, testament bears into Madhya Pradesh. It’s in the west of the It’s in the west of Pradesh. into Madhya mountainous has long that region been a hiding place for dacoits (outlaws) such Looking at the map, Jhansi lies at the narrowJhansi lies at the Looking at the map, Uttar a globular Pradesh incursion mouth of JHANSI JHANSI % taking commission. jeep for the day (Rs 400), but beware of hotels hotels of jeep for the day (Rs 400), but beware hours) leaves Shivpuri at 7.52am and Gwal- Shivpuri leaves hours) ior at 8.15pm. and Gwalior (2nd/sleeper Rs 42/230, four and Gwalior (2nd/sleeper Rs 42/230, four hours), Gwalior (Rs 58, three hours) and, once hours) (Rs 58, three Gwalior hours), (Rs 124, eight hours). a day, for Bhopal tages and bungalows is set and bungalows is tages among the palms the nearby overlooking trees, and frangipani and park; stafflake to the trips can arrange national park. cludes breakfast in its prices. This breezy MP breezy prices. This in its breakfast cludes cot- with big-windowed complex Tourism lonelyplanet.com 6pm) At the train station, books taxis and MP Tourism hotels, and has information about Orchha and Khajuraho. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH to Khajuraho. charge taxis Train station Rs1500 foratrip TAXI (Rs 20,onehour). (Rs 55,three hours), which alsostops atDatia to Shivpuri (Rs52,three hours) andGwalior (Rs 15)toKhajuraho. go Frequent services 4½ hours, frequent), thenan11km-jeep ride and 7.30pm). (Rs 85,sixhours, 11.45am,1.30pm, 3.45pm bus stand tickets alsoleavesells forit.Localbuses the abdi trainfromDelhi; connectswiththeShat-11am). Thesecond (Rs96,fivetrain station hours, 5.30amand Express for Khajuraho buses leave fromthe BUS Getting There&Away restaurant atabusycrossroads. the vegetarian menuatthispopularfamily tikka masala videos. toasoundtrackofdishes, allset Hindi pop (savoury, often spicy,nibbles)andChinese food jointoffering pizzas,sundaes, and TVs. thebudget roomshavestaircases, squatloos Atthetopofhouse. aleg-stretching of series clean, busyhotel withthefeel of aboarding of farawayinthis isnever anillicitbeer AC/AC fromRs275/625,d325/675; puri Rd. There isastripof reasonable hotels onShiv- Sleeping &Eating of saint lostcauses. tothepatron Jude’s Church topleadtheircase desperate Christianpilgrimsconverge onSt 670 An alternative (Rs80, isabustoBamitha Vidhata National Bakery Samrat Hotel a –chair;1Tue, Wed,Fri,Sun MAJOR TRAINSFROMJHANSI etnto TanN ae ae(s Drto h) Departure Duration(hr) Fare (Rs) TrainNo&name Chennai 2616 Destination Mumbai 2138 Mumbai Delhi 2001 Howrah 2176/2178 Howrah OTENMDY RDS • Och MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Orchha

( %

(Elite Crossing;mealsRs60) 2445745; Khajuraho Rd) 2445745; Khajuraho (marinated dish)ison cheese

( %

(Shivpuri Rd;mealsRs60) (Shivpuri 0510-2444943; Shivpuri Rd;snon- 0510-2444943; Shivpuri MP Tourism MP Tourism Grand TrunkExp Punjab MailExp Shatabdi Chambal Exp A tasty Atasty forKhajuraho a 75a 5 5.56pm 5 735(a) ) ( Theoffer % 5512/73 9 12.30pm 19 535/1328/1753 Afast- 6510/19 9 1.04am 29 635/1609/2159 namkin 2442622) paneer 5716/82 21 8.35am 22(1) 547/1361/1802 Ram Raja Temple. Raja Ram lives whotheybelieve andbreathesRama, in ful driftingintochant to Lord incantations down fromthetemple topsattheHindufaith- vulturesramshackle streets. Atsunset, peer their spires anddomesovershadowing afew theirwayoutoffight theencroaching jungle, appropriate. Temples, palacesand Orchha’s name(HiddenPlace)issingularly Entered byagate crownedwithared Ganesh, % ORCHHA costs thesame. Rs 10forthe40-minute journey,andthebus non-AC/AC. Tempos cost fromthebusstand Rs 150.Taxis toOrchha charge Rs300/350for costsRs40andtoOrchhathe busstand itis toAn autorickshaw from thetrainstation Getting Around aces were built. creating afortifiable islandonwhich thepal- areamonsoon time,loops aroundanelevated boundary. Achannel, mostly dryoutside boulder-strewn riverbed, forms aneastern River,The limpid-green withits Betwa Orientation Aurangzeb. vour; hisrevolt wascrushed by13-year-old wasonce againoutof1627 BirSingh fa- year. WhenShah Jahan became emperorin Mahal wasbuiltforhisvisitthefollowing apowerfulfigure,Singh andtheJehangir Salim becameEmperorJehangir, makingBir all butruinedhiskingdom.In1605Prince Prince Salim,hefeuded withAkbar, who and builtJhansiFort.Afavourite of Mughal Deo ruledfromOrchha from1605to1627 decamped tonearbyTikamgarh. BirSingh from the16thcenturyto1783,whenthey ofOrchha wasthecapital theBundelarajas History

07680 /pop8500 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com chhatris

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH Raj Raj A2 A3 A3 B3 A3 A4 A2 B3 B3 A3 A2 B3 B2 A3 B3 B3 A3 A4 A1 A2 B3 A3 A3 A3 A3 A3 671 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 on the 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 , an as- Jehangir Mahal archaeological museum , overlooking a green landscape a green , overlooking , the caretaker will open the painted will open the painted , the caretaker There’s a small There’s SLEEPING EATING DRINKING SHOPPING Emporium & Indian Art Gallery...... TRANSPORT AR Tours & Travels...... (see 2) Tempo & Bus Stand...... Ram Raja Temple...... 21) River Rafting...... (see Saaket Museum...... Ticket Office...... Amar Mahal...... Betwa Retreat...... Bundelkhand Riverside...... Fort View Guesthouse...... Hotel Sheesh Mahal...... Shri Mahant Guest House...... Bhola Restaurant...... Hotel Sheesh Mahal...... (see 21) Ram Raja...... Betwa Tarang...... (see 24) INFORMATION Bank...... Canara Cyber Café...... 21) MP Tourism...... (see Post Office...... 2) ATM...... (see State Bank of India SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Camel Stables...... Chaturbhuj Temple...... Chhatris...... Forestry Office...... Jehangir Mahal & Museum...... Khana Hammam...... Palki Mahal...... Phool Bagh & Hardol Memorial...... Raj Mahal...... Raj Praveen Mahal...... ground floor and behind the palace are sturdy the palace are ground floor and behind camel stables In the nearby with monuments. dotted Mahal Orchha ,rooms where and hunt, fight and dance across royalty wrestle, the walls and ceilings. PALACES PALACES the seasonal over bridge Crossing the granite the Betwa offshoot of brings you to three 17th-century palaces. steep staircases, sault course of precipitous walkways, bamboo scaffoldingrubble- and who aren’t filled rooms, may put off visitors but it nonethe- travel, into outward-bound Islamic medieval a zenith of represents less architecture. 7am- h (87km) Park

7am-

To Tikamgarh National Betwa B 9 4 (Indian/foreigner (Indian/foreigner h 9am-5pm 8 13 h sites 15

21 . 12 River Betwa 00 0.1 miles 200 m 16 19 Approximate Scale 24 18 252689; Jhansi Rd; 252689; Jhansi Rd; Rd seven monuments , covering 3 PRADESH •• Orchha NORTHERN MADHYA 26 23 6 2 1 20 252624; Hotel Sheesh Mahal; 7.30am-6pm)

Pillars

ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ 252631; Jhansi Rd; Jhansi Rd Jhansi Tikamgarh %

Sawan Bhado ( % h Market ( (

A 25 % 7 22 (Tikamgarh Rd; per hr Rs 40; ( 5 14 11 17

10.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat) 10.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 10.30am-12.30pm

10 ORCHHA 2 3 1 4 Mahant (100m); Lakshmi Narayan Temple (1km) To Raju Bikes (50m); Hotel Shri Jhansi (18km); Khajuraho (175km) To National Highway (9km); Mon-Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash (up to Rs 10,000 Changes travellers cheques and cash (up to Rs 10,000 daily). h Rs 5/30, camera Rs 20) from the and the museum, is only available ticket office A day ticket for Orchha’s for Orchha’s A day ticket Post office Sights & Activities MP Tourism Cyber Café

Canara Bank Information Information lonelyplanet.com 10pm) Information on Orchha and transport. 9.30pm) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH an image of Rama, temporarilyby an image installed of Rama, hukar Shah’s wife, itbecame atemple when shipped asaking.BuiltpalaceforMad- Betwa River ghats. Betwa above the children splashing inthe adjacent atdusk,when thebirdsreelThey’re bestseen and undergrowth 500msouthof thevillage. Deo; the Singh toOrchha’s rulers includingBir Cenotaphs CENOTAPHS domed towers. muralsontheceilingsof its well-preserved fortherooftop Raja viewsandthe from Ram the bestviewintown. among themossy spires anddomes, youget the internal stairs totheroof where, from Buy acheap torch fromthebazaarandclimb solidbuildingonacruciformplan. mensely prayersessions. and evening times tovisitare duringthepeacefulmorning the rani,proved impossibletomove. Thebest 8-10pm) gold-domed the centre of alively square isthepink-and- still receive of thousands Hindupilgrims.At Orchha’s impressive 16th-centurytemples TEMPLES tures of . oil-on-cloth paintingsnarratingtheadven- mission free; crumbling lotusarches, the Amid ascattering of minormonuments with MUSEUM make wishes theyhopehe’llgrant. and walkarounditfive to times,clockwise, marblelatticescreen) of hismemorial (carved sing songsabouthim,tiethreads ontothejali culture.as aheroinBundelkhand Women Persian garden).PrinceHardol isvenerated cent covered stonebedsinapavilion, isintheadja- his brother’swife. Hismemorial,twocloth- to ‘prove hisinnocence’over with anaffair of Deo who committed BirSingh suicide was thepalaceof DinmanHardol, theson withsomefinevaulted ceilings. Bath), garden,and Mughal smaller 672 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Neighbouring Downhill fromthepalacecompoundare the On theothersideof thevillage, Phool Bagh Phool OTENMDY RDS • Och MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Orchha , theonlytemple iswor- where Rama Raj Praveen Mahal Praveen Raj h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Ram Raja Temple Raja Ram , atraditional chhatris Chaturbhuj Temple Khana rise fromtherubble rise , apavilion andformal isworththe1kmtrek

Hammam Saaket Museum Saaket hasmasksand charbagh

( h Palki Mahal Mahal Palki 8am-noon & isanim- (Turkish (formal (ad-

Rd; rwithACRs700,without200-400; s/d Rs690/790,withAC890/990; bathroom withhotwater. with asuperbviewandblue-and-yellowtiled better value. TheAC roomhasalarge window the roomsandmore expensive choices are palaces. There’s abigdiscrepancy between onto ariverside gardenwithaviewof the Rs 100,r200-400; rooms andfriendlymanagement. this isanexcellentbudget choice withclean cooler Rs150-350; best views. chilled-out locationwithsomeof Orchha’s Mahant Shri Hotel Sleeping Rs300). half-day canbehiredand jeeps (per fromthebusstand office of town,mapsare available fromthe entered onthefarsideof thebridge southeast which isn’t exactlypurringwithtigers. It’s km MP through Tourism( p671 ). River rafting RAFTING &TREKKING ste Maharani/Maharaja Rs3990/4990; ste Maharani/Maharaja Rd;s/dRs1190/1490, Mahal [email protected]; Jehangir restaurant. and baths. isthe Theonlydisappointment have four-poster beds,dressers, wardrobes modelledontheJehangirtails Mahal. Rooms lent adistinguished airbyarchitectural de- fort’andtheplaceis name means‘immortal s Rd2950-3750,steRs4500; sions tolocalvillages are onoffer. with a200-year-old Hanuman shrine. Excur- look eithertheriver ortheflowerygarden and functionalfireplaces. The29roomsover- hotel aboundswithlatticework,goldpaint d Rs2600-4100; the restaurant. away fromtheusualMPTourismmenuin manymiles and youcouldimagineyourself tages and10tents inthewell-tended garden skirts of the14cot- town.Wanderbetween aboveplace onarise theriver ontheout- Betwa Retreat GuestHouse View Fort GuestHouse Mahant Shri the45-sq- A 12kmtrackloopsthrough o Riverside Bundelkhand Amar Mahal national park

( % 9425337932; Hotel SheeshMahal Hotel Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (per 1½/3hrRs1200/2000)

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( TheMaharaja of Orchha’s a % (admission Rs200; ) 252102; BypassRd;sRs1750-2500, Overlooking themarket, Overlooking h 252618; [email protected]; ) 252341; LakshmiNarayanTemple Pokey roomsopening ( 9am-5pm) % as

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252701; swithsquattoilet ( % 252612; sRs1750-2500, a a ) Amar Mahal’s , off JhansiRd, , off 252715; rwithair- canbebooked Theair-cooler MPTourism ) ) h ( a % 1 Oct-1 Jul) 1 Oct-1 ) Has a a Has 252624; forestry forestry ,

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 673 07686 / pop 19,290 07686 Under threat from Afghan invaders from from Afghan invaders Under threat How did the Chandelas manage to turn How did the Chandelas manage Orientation Orientation lies and shops restaurants hotels, of A cluster 1km About temples. group of near the western the bus stand is the old village northeast of with another set temples, to and the eastern the south. huge amount of labour. Whatever the answers, the answers, Whatever labour. amount of huge isolation helped preserveKhajuraho’s it from on the desecration inflicted Muslim invaders elsewhere. ‘idolatrous’ temples Khajuraho the north, the Chandelas forsook prayed at the no longer for their forts. People into ruin and the jungle fell which temples, ignorant The wider world remained took over. officer, TSuntil British to Burt, was guided the ruins by his palanquin (enclosed seats in bearers carried on four men’s shoulders) this stalwart Victorian soldier was 1838. There house treasure surprised at the architectural describing he saw, by what first but shocked was the erotica as ‘a little warmer than there necessity for’. any absolute god Chandra, who descended on a beautiful god Chandra, who descended The Chan- a stream. maiden as she bathed in which many of dela dynasty built the temples, and survivedoriginally rose from a lake, for to the Mughal falling centuries before five which of – the 85 temples onslaught. Most of built during a century- – were some 25 remain AD 950 to from genius creative of long burst size as the temples’ 1050. Almost as intriguing why they were and beauty is the question of or interest great nothing of There’s built here. as a building Khajuraho beauty to recommend nearby. population centre and no great site into stone? Build- their exhilarating dreams monumental such of ing so many temples a required would have size in just 100 years KHAJURAHO KHAJURAHO % Khajura- carvingsThe Kamasutra that swathe among the are temples of groups ho’s three many in the world. While art finest temple peek a quick take at the sensuous travellers and stop-off as a between Agra sculptures spiritual a discover those who linger Varanasi, everything from yoga spot where but modern to folk dancing can be experienced. History was founded Legend has it that Khajuraho the moon the son of by Chardravarman,

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(cnr Jehangir Mahal & Tikamgarh Rds; (bread). PRADESH •• Khajuraho NORTHERN MADHYA (Jehangir Mahal Rd; beer Rs 100)

It’s the same old MP Tourism

(Jehangir Mahal Rd; meals Rs 45)

This streetside restaurant’s hotch- restaurant’s This streetside (Lakshmi Narayan Temple Rd) (Lakshmi Narayan Temple

paratha paratha

Hotel Sheesh Mahal AR Tours & Travels

Orchha is easily crossed on foot or by bike. is easily crossedOrchha on foot or by bike. Taxis to Khajuraho cost Rs 1500, to Gwalior to Khajuraho Taxis Betwa Tarang Ram Raja Bhola Restaurant (rice pudding) for dessert. ety cycles (per hour/day Rs 10/50). Raju Bikes National Hwy. pick up a bus ( p670 ). If you’re willing to risk willing ). If you’re p670 pick up a bus ( the bus being full, wait for it 9km away on the Rs 1200 and to Agra Rs 2700. For Khajuraho, For Khajuraho, Rs 2700. Rs 1200 and to Agra into Jhansi and or autorickshaw a tempo catch National Hwy 9km east of Jhansi, though though Jhansi, National Hwy 9km east of demand high here the autorickshaw drivers prices. Khajuraho, you can ask the bus driver to to you can ask the bus driver Khajuraho, on the turn-off at the Orchha drop you off the Jhansi bus stand; autorickshaws charge the Jhansi bus stand; charge autorickshaws Rs 150 for the same journey. Coming from Getting There & Around Getting There & Around to (Rs 10) ply the 18km journey Tempos copper handicrafts sold in a low-pressure copper handicrafts sold in a low-pressure environment. 12 & 13, Tikamgarh Rd; Rajasthan Emporium & Indian Art Gallery but the food is best avoided. Shopping beer on its terrace overlooking Jehangir Mahal, Mahal, Jehangir beer overlooking on its terrace menu but it’s worth it for the historic sur- menu but it’s worth it and folk music roundings and the classical and dancing. etarian fare, and it’s worth trying the etarian fare, restaurant under a tree offers reasonable veg- reasonable offers under a tree restaurant good spot for an energising breakfast of pan- of breakfast good spot for an energising or cakes commentary scrawled on the menus. It’s a meals Rs 40) Orchha doesOrchha in fudge. a good line such as throne-like toilets. as throne-like such Eating & Drinking hotel in a wing of Jehangir Mahal. Every room Every Mahal. Jehangir in a wing of hotel touches regal have the two suites is unique and is the only sound you’ll hear at night you’ll hear only sound is the in the MP Tourism palatial this literally of rooms lonelyplanet.com potch of global dishes, from tandoori global dishes, (mari- of potch has Oriental meat dishes) to Korean, nated meals Rs 70-110) paintings on silk and marble, and silver and paintings on silk and marble, and silver based at Cyber Café, transport. can organise MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 674 Temple (600m) To LalguanMahadev 4 6 1 3 2 5 KHAJURAHO 15 Global Village(1.5km); OTENMDY RDS • Kauao MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Khajuraho Ashram Lodge(1km); (18km); Sanctuary (19km) Dwiveda (2km); To YogiSharma Yogi Sudarshan INFORMATION Tourist PoliceBooth...... Tourist FacilitationCentre...... (see28) State BankofIndiaATM...... State BankofIndia...... Red Bungalow...... Raja's Café...... (see53) Police...... MP Tourism...... (see14) Main PostOffice...... Igbal Shop...... (see32) Hospital...... Government ofIndiaTouristOffice.. Bookshop...... (see 60) aaaBn...... B5 Canara Bank...... Ken Gharial 25 17 22 AC 16 59 Jhansi (188km); Gwalior(276km);Varanasi(414km) 55 23 38 28

Jhansi Rd Shiv Sagar Panna TigerReserve(32km);Madla (40km); To Airport(5km);JetAirwaysOffice (5km); 30 Karnavati InterpretiveCentre(30km); 35 Satna (116km); Orchha(175km); 56 Bamitha (11km);Basari(27km);

Link Rd 26 39 Jewel oftheJungle(32km);

27

32 24 34 53 Rd Main 9 54

41 No 1 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Bazaar Sagar Prem 50 2 44 14 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B3 6 11 42 8 7 47 B 1

Jain Temples 49 Vegetable Yadav Lodge...... Vishvanath...... ...... Vamana...... Ticket Office...... Shanti Nath...... Santinath Temple...... (see21) Parvati...... Parsvanath...... New MuseumSite...... Nandi...... Matangesvara...... Mahadeva...... Lakshmi...... ...... Kandariya Mahadev...... Jain ArtMuseum...... Hanuman...... Ghantai...... Duladeo...... Devi Jagadamba...... Chitragupta...... Chausath Yogini...... Chandela CulturalCentre...... ...... Ayur Arogyam...... Archaeological Museum...... Adinath...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Adivart Tribal&FolkArtMuseum..(see14) Market Market 58 Gole 37 60 57 4 43 5 Link Rd 51 36

Rd 52 3 45

No 2 40 46

Bypass 1km 0.5miles 0 0

48 Basti Rd Basti

Te in

mples Rd mples Rd Ja 12 20 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Bypass Rd B4 B3 B4 D4 B4 D5 A4 D5 A2 B3 B4 A4 B4 A4 A4 D5 C4 C5 C6 A4 A3 A5 B3 C4 C4 B4 D5 Narora 18 Sagar Train ReservationOffice...... (see58) Yashowaran TaxiDriverUnion...... Indian Airlines...... Bus Station...... Bilal Bikes...... (see49) Bike Hire...... (see46) Mrignayani...... Kandariya Art&Culture...... Sound-and-Light Show...... Shilpgram...... Kandariya Art&Culture...... (see56) Downing Street...... (see38) Raja's Café...... Mediterraneo...... Ganesh Restaurant...... Blue SkyRestaurant...... Bella Italia...... Agrasen...... Yogi Lodge...... Yadav LodgeS...... (see36) Hotel Zen...... Hotel ...... Hotel Siddharth...... Hotel MarblePalace...... Hotel Lakeside...... Hotel Jhankar...... Hotel Harmony...... Hotel Chandela...... Holiday Inn...... Casa DiWilliam...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING 13 19 Village Old To Chaturbhuja Temple(1.5km); Khodar Bijamandala Temple (2.5km) 33 21 lonelyplanet.com

River D 31 10 29 Enclosure Jain 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 A6 B3 B4 A6 B5 B4 B5 A3 B5 B4 B4 B4 B3 B4 C4 B4 C4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 C4 B6 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH are are 675 9.30am- surasun- h (dancing (dancing (Main Rd)

Government of (carved fig- (mortal women) (mortal women) mithuna 272348; Main Rd; nayikas % to make the proposition the proposition to make ( tourist police booth ) and and madarsa, (heavenly nymphs), nymphs), (heavenly Walk round the temples with your right with your right Walk round the temples Two elements appear repeatedly – women – women Two elements appear repeatedly If you need assistance, the The most notorious scam is when children scam is when children The most notorious guides the government-approved Even classic example is the washerwoman with classic example is the washerwoman with a wet sari clinging to her body – an image the eroticism as any of imbued with as much or foursomes. couples, threesomes shoulder facing the building – the right side divine. is considered famous. Around the temples are bands of bands of are famous. Around the temples exceedingly a artistic stonework showing ago – gods, a millennium life storyboard of and goddesses, musicians, real warriors, mythological animals. and sex. While the running through a whole Kamasutra ures certainly positions and possibilities) are of should not the erotic content eye-catching, skill underlying the distract from the great Sensuous,sculptures. posturing daris been carvedhave a half-twist with and slight the playful figures sideways lean that make A dance and swirl out from the flat stone. seurs who pop up in every hotel may not may not seurs who pop up in every hotel At the temples, qualified. be professionally a financial of- leave to pressured do not feel it won’t be given – you can be sure fering to Shiva. India tourist office 6pm Mon-Sat) Sights TEMPLES Indo- of superb examples are The temples em- but it’s their liberally Aryan architecture, Khajuraho bellished carvings made that have bicycle can lead to a commission changing changing a commission can lead to bicycle in Khajuraho. hands their classroom, normally you to visit invite demands concluding with in the old village, their splits with the child for rupees, which may use They word for the teacher. school, to visit a keen If you are intriguing. more you go, and establish a price before school, no extra cash. take with scepticism. Dis- should be approached your tour – they may cuss the itinerary of commission-paying plan to conclude it at a yogis and mas- Equally, the shop or school. surasundaris good ports of call. good ports of 10.30am- 8.30am- 272348; h 7am-10.30pm) h % 8am-11pm) ( h incoming flights); 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, h h 10am-2pm Mon-Fri, h h 274051; fax 272330; Link Rd 272373; Main Rd; 6am-10.30pm) Film and 6am-10.30pm) Film 274051; 274022; % % h ( ( % ( PRADESH •• Khajuraho NORTHERN MADHYA 274070; % ( (Main Rd; per hr Rs 15; % 272498; Link Rd No 2) ( airport 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Very helpful with 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Very ) All-purpose bookshop with internet, ) All-purpose bookshop (Main Rd; per hr Rs 40; 272032; Link Rd No 2) 272032; Link Rd (Main Rd; (Jain Temples Rd; per hr Rs 40; Rd; (Jain Temples % 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat of month) ( h i % (per half-/full day 1-5 people Rs 350/500, multilin- (

h

10am-noon Sat) At the bus stand, allows MasterCard10am-noon Sat) At the bus stand, and Visa advances up to Rs 25,000. No 1; Information on car hire and MP attractions.Information on car hire Also books MP Tourism hotels. memory cards. to noon Sat)

ous as accepting a lift on the back of a boy’s ous as accepting a lift on the back of Dangers & Annoyances Dangers & Annoyances Be that something as seemingly innocu- aware MP Tourism Guides gual guides extra Rs 180) Licensed guides can be booked at ). above tourist offices or Raja’s ( Cafe tourist office will contain banks, a train res- tourist offices, ervation a post office, café, an internet office, tourist police and shops. TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Centre, under The new Tourist Facilitation temples, the western construction north of POST POST Main post office 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques; MasterCard and Visa ATM. PHOTOGRAPHY Igbal Shop State Bank of India Canara Bank MONEY MONEY MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Hospital Red Bungalow Raja’s Café INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS to digital places burn Most internet images CD for Rs 100. EMERGENCY EMERGENCY Police

Bookshop Information Information BOOKSHOPS lonelyplanet.com 8.30pm; handicrafts Rs 100. CD burning and films. Chandela Cultural Centre Main Rd; Khajuraho and India information. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH the ticket office. wise direction.wise monuments in this group, Lakshmana is monuments inthis group,Lakshmana Kandariya-Mahadev. similar to theShiva temples Vishvanath and dedicated in designitis toVishnu, although frieze ringingthebasement. figures intertwinetheelephantsin between out frombehind herhands.More sensuous man’s bestfriend,whileashocked figure peeks one gentleman proving thatahorse canbea gymnastic orgy,south sideisahighly including weren’t inventing positions.Onthe newsexual the Chandelaswere generally atwarwhenthey corner. There are of alsobattalions soldiers – toasubsidiaryshrine atthesouthwest himself temple’s many anonymoussculptors hasadded theboxedple; see text, opposite ). Oneof the mandapa of Dhangaaccordingtoaninscribedslab inthe build, completed inabout954duringthereign with apantheonof gods. dating to900–25andmeticulouslycarved Inside Varaha boar, sandstone isa1.5m-high Temple.shrines facingthelarge Lakshmana tion, andtheclosed-up a two-hour (ASI) guidebooktoKhajuraho (Rs60)and are of free. India AnArchaeological Survey most interesting theothers groupalthough (Indian/foreigner Rs20/250,video25; The maintemples are inthe Western Group 676 The temples are describedhere inaclock- One of the earliest andbest-preserved Varaha The large seen as a joyous celebration of all aspects oflife.seen asajoyouscelebrationofallaspects unhampered sexualexpression scenes.shouldbe alongsidemanyotherday-to-day The carvings yoga (spiritualexercise) are seenasequallyvalidinthisquestfornirvana. to transcendtheevilsofworldandachieve enlightenment. isonewaynot limited Accordingtothiscult,gratificationofthebaserinstincts toKhajuraho. source ofhispleasure damaged. peasing theraingodIndra. This voyeurwhowouldn’twantthe oldlecherissupposedlyakeen claims thatthefigures were thoughtto prevent thetemples beingstruckbylightning,ap- boysgrowingupinall-maletemple schools.a how-tomanualforadolescentBrahmin Another instone, ofKamasutra ing restraint. Anothertheoryhasitthattheeroticposturingwasakind posits thattheritualisedpositionsandcalmexpressions suggestthatsexwasawayofpractis- TheWhy allthesex?Scholarsare audioguideatthewestern groupoftemples uncertain. stuffily BIRDS DOIT,CHANDELAS DOIT OTENMDY RDS • Kauao MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Khajuraho The Khajuraho sculptorsmayhave beensimplyrepresentingThe Khajuraho life asitwasintheirsociety,with moreRather convincingistheexplanation thattheseare Tantric images, especially asthey’re , dedicated toVishnu’s boarincarna- (pillared pavilion infrontof atem- Lakshmana Temple audio guide (Rs 50) Lakshmi took 20 years to took20years to are available at h western group western are twosmall dawn-dusk) , the hoping to seek deliverance fromthecycleofhoping toseek re- phallic Shiva symbol,worshipped byHindus the othertemples. andmore –taller 1m high slenderthanon inside and646outside),mostof themnearly bands. There are (226 872acrobatic statues aerobics, allcrammedintothree central representations of female beautyandsexual Chandelan architecture. Italsohasthemost ple intownandrepresents of thehighpoint 1025and1050,isthelargestbetween tem- little older. soislikely a less embellished withcarvings more butis incommonwith Chitragupta, (1000–25). Ithas Mahadev andChitragupta three-part design issimplerthanKandariya- frolicking inthethirduppermost band. Its panied byVishnu, include black. Thecarvings that theKali image painted isactuallyParvati, temple and it’sstillaParvati Some believe andthenKali.Vishnu, butlater toParvati lion. human)caressinganimal oreven a1m-high (mythical beast,partlion,someother of Khajuraho’s finestsculptures –a neighbours,mighty one thistemple houses small andinsignificantcompared withits onthelintel of itsdoorway.Although carved Jagadamba,Devi isdedicated toShiva, whois platformasKandariya-Mahadevsame and spires –replicas of itself. incarnation. It’sdecorated with84subsidiary The 31m-high The 30.5m-long Mahadeva Devi Jagadamba Devi , asmall,ruinedtemple onthe Bhoga wasoriginallydedicated to sikhara (physicalenjoyment)and sarasundaris, Kandariya-Mahadev is,like linga sardulas lonelyplanet.com and mithunas sardula accom- , built , a

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 677 ma- is sup- antarala antarala (towers), (towers), usually usually sardulas (seven mothers) (seven mothers) surasundari surasundari urusringas outside the fenced enclosure, enclosure, outside the fenced

, is taller and curvilinear. The The is taller and curvilinear. is that the writing letters, cuddling babies, cuddling babies, writing letters, ; otherwise she attends the gods the gods ; otherwise she attends saptamattrikas (initial hall) and then into the sikhara nayika and a At the other end of the platform, a 2.2m- At the other end of Matangesvara mandapa that recalls similar work on Lakshmana’s similar work that recalls façade. still in every- in Khajuraho is the only temple here day use. It may be the plainest temple by steps flanked by lions on the northern northern on the by lions flanked by steps Vishvanath on the south. elephants side and with which Kandariya-Mahadev, anticipates it shares and is by Ganesh and Virabhandra, flanked Chandelan example of another superlative sensuous include Its sculptures architecture. surasundari more music while languishing and playing than at other temples. provocatively faces bull vehicle, Nandi, Shiva’s long statue of the 12-pillared The basement of the temple. with an elephant frieze shrine is decorated is human (high terrace) and the finely carved entrance gate and the finely carved (high terrace) entrance gate nayika is is (inner sanctum) where the resident deity is displayed. deity is displayed. the resident (inner sanctum) where surasundari surasundari is dancing she is an (spire) topping the sanctum. While the lower towers, over the the topping the sanctum.lower towers, over While the (spire) adisthana are reached reached are Chitragupta and a proces- (iguana). elephant fights may be pyramid-shaped, the sikhara sikhara . surasundari godha (entrance porch) leads to a (entrance mithuna Nandi Shrine torana. female figure with tree, they act they as supporting with tree, brackets figure within the temple; female and is on your right. name’s The pradakshina PRADESH •• Khajuraho NORTHERN MADHYA – when a (enclosed corridor) runs around this sanctum. Simpler three-part (enclosed lack the temples sarasundaris, mahamandapa, (main hall), which is supported around it. An with pillars and has a corridor – Khajuraho’s that have most famous image; sensuously carved, erotic figures also perform this bracket function – a mythical beast, part lion, part human; some other animal or even or and – heavenly nymph, beautiful dancing woman – heavenly – the only difference between a – the only difference and ardhamandapa and goddesses by carrying flowers, ornaments, mirrors or other offerings; she also engages in she also engages in and goddesses by carrying flowers, ornaments, mirrors or other offerings; activities, such as playing with pets, babies, musical instruments or herself everyday surasundari salabhanjika – salabhanjika sardula mithuna to busloads of blue-rinse archaeologists shocked tourists a variety of people, from Victorian nayika while a creature posed to be a heavenly apsaras carry armed men on their backs apsara The The The whole temple sits upon a whole temple The Externally the temples consist of successive waves of higher and higher waves consist of successive the temples Externally The sculptures and statues play such an important sculptures partThe their own terminology: that many have The temples are almost all aligned east to west, with the entrance facing east. Some of the the almost all aligned east to west, with the entrance facing east. Some of are temples The pradakshina

Parvati Temple apsaras

„ „ „ „ „ „ TEMPLE TERMINOLOGY TEMPLE TERMINOLOGY of a three-Khajuraho or five-part unique design pattern and follow a fairly consistent temples layout.

mandapa hamandapa then leads into the (vestibule) A culminating in the soaring horizontal bands of design of these vertical elements is balanced by the equally ornate ornate that run around the temples. sculptures

to the temple is a to the temple those from the classic and sandstone, but all or granite made of granite, were earliest temples of sandstone. made completely period are mandapa Believed been built in 1002, the to have Continuing around the enclosure, the closed- Continuing around the enclosure, North of Devi Jagadamba, of North Vishvanath Temple Vishvanath Temple originally dedicated to Vishnu and now has anoriginally dedicated Gauri riding a of image up was since this small temple incorrect, probably god and 10 of his 22 incarnations. god and 10 of on the central niche in the south façade is an in the on the central niche the representing Vishnu, 11-headed statue of Surya drives his seven-horse chariot, while his seven-horseSurya drives chariot, Indian temples – in being dedicated to the sun to the sun – in being dedicated Indian temples as not in as good condition While god Surya. it has some fine carvingsthe other temples, of unique in Khajuraho – and rare among North among North rare – and in Khajuraho unique scenes, and hunting In the inner sanctum, stone-carriers. sion of lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH stands outsidethechaoticstands oldvillage. It’s southern group, north, isdedicated tothedwarfincarna- dates fromthelate 10th century. Unfortu- Temple, but isalittlemore solikely evolved on itspillars. It’s similartonearbyParsvanath Jain group,the small Indian temples. west Khajuraho buttypicalamongmedieval hamandapa there are few eroticscenes.Itsroofed its as elephantsprotrudingfromthe walls, but tion of Vishnu. Ithasquirkytouches such sikhara its crocodile-covered entranceandslender of small-scaleKhajuraho architecture for dedicated toVishnu andisagoodexample period,aboutAD900. link ittothesame Mahadeva Vishnu. SimilaritieswithLalguan doorway reveals itsoriginaldedicationto but theimage of Vishnu above thesanctum ledtoitbeingincorrectlythe sanctum named oldest inKhajuraho. Thefour-faced lingamin in Khajuraho. ing toAD922,theoldestdateable inscription The interest inscriptiondat- isinthepedestal of statue themonkeyan almost2.5m-tall god. temples inawalledenclosure. scattered aroundtheoldvillage andthree Jain The eastern groupconsistsof fourtemples Eastern Group ruined shrinetoShiva. granite yogini ItispossiblyIndia’soldest the goddessherself. attendants) of Kali, whilethe65thsheltered 64 –itoncehadcellsforthe aligned easttowest,thetemple’s namemeans entirely of granite andtheonlytemple not probably theoldestatKhajuraho. Constructed Sagar, date tothelate 9thcenturyandare image of Shiva). (phallic it sportsapolished 2.5m-high (suggesting anearlyconstruction)butinside 678 after the Sagar, thegranite Located theoldvillage between andthe Vamana ChaturbhujaTempleResembling inthe A further600mwestisthesandstone-and- Its sandstone Its sandstone The The ruinsof sikhara sikhara OTENMDY RDS • Kauao MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Khajuraho temple. Hanuman Temple . Lalguan Mahadev Temple Lalguan Mahadev ghanta

Temple is devoid ofis devoid subsidiary spires and (mainhall)isananomalyin (chain andbell)decorations Chausath Yogini sikhara (1050–75),200mfurther Javari TempleJavari Brahma TempleBrahma on Basti Rd contains Rdcontains onBasti overlooking Narora (c900),asmall, , beyondShiv yoginis (1075–1100) isoneof the isnamed (female ma- houses componentsfromoldertemples,houses Museum Museum dating toabout 1027. a plastered-over inscriptiononthepedestal with Adinathstatue including a4.5m-high triggersthe innersanctum aJain reminder. larly Vamana. Onlythestrikingblackimage in similar toKhajuraho’s Hindutemples, particu- onitsthree bandsof sculpturescarvings it’s tially restored over thecenturies.Withfine TempleLakshmana date itto950–70. simpler and itssimilaritieswiththeslightly inscription onthe was substituted about acentury ago. Bothan to Adinath,ajet-black image of Parsvanath thetempleAlthough wasoriginallydedicated dance) andanotherapplyingeyemake-up. paintingherfootforatemplefoot (somesay, ing thewomanremoving athornfromher here,best-known figures includ- canbeseen its sculpturalbeauty.Someof Khajuraho’s skill andprecision of itsconstruction,andfor walled enclosure, fortheexceptional isnotable vanath with thewestern-enclosure temples, normally locked. nately, only itspillared shell remains andit’s ple, dedicated toShiva judgingbythe white the excavated mound of an11th-century tem- track leadingto temple withouteroticsculptures. ItisKhajuraho’sthe sanctum. onlydeveloped four-armed2.7m-high, of statue Vishnu in ruined none of theirzealfortheKamasutra. lost they hadcertainly by thispoint,although temple theirartisticpeak builders hadpassed ofas those Shiva, suggest thatKhajuraho’s relatively wooden,repetitious sculptures, such is theyoungest temple, datingto1100–50.Its about 1kmsouthof theJain enclosure. This A dirttrackrunstotheisolated Southern Group Santinath Temple tographs relating toJainism inthemodern themselves. More interesting are thepho- special visitifyou’re touringthetemples salvaged fromthetemples are notwortha Outside theenclosure isthecircular Shanti Nath While notcompetinginsizeanderotica Just before Chaturbhujathere’s asigned Anticipating Duladeoanditsflaws, the The adjacentsmaller , thelargest of theJain temples inthe Chaturbhuja Temple (admission Rs5; , builtabout acentury ago, . Bijamandala mahamandapa h 7am-6pm) Adinath (c1100)hasafine

lonelyplanet.com Temple . Itsartworks has been par- hasbeen doorway . Thisis Jain Art Pars- , MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH ) A 679 These ai 272273; Main Rd; r If a treatment If a treatment % (

274145; www.hotelsurya % (

244135; Jain Temples Rd; s/d from Rs 244135; Jain Temples 274244; anupamgupta74@hotmail 272572; r Rs 150) 274158; r from Rs 120-150) 274158; r from % 274228; [email protected]; Jain ( %

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( Fifteen simple, colourful rooms Fifteen %

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Well-appointed rooms setWell-appointed among Hotel Surya ) This upbeat hotel has 25 comfortable This upbeat hotel ) a Monastery-like place 1.5km north of place 1.5km north of Monastery-like a ai Yadav Lodge Yadav Yogi Sharma Ashram Lodge Hotel Zen o Yogi Lodge Hotel Harmony 350/400; rooms with TV courtyard restau- and a decent rant (meals Rs 75 to 100) serving pizza, pasta, and tiramisu made daily. and bread Mexican, at 7am and 6pm. are One-hour yoga sessions 8am) and massage are on offer. 8am) and massage are Rd; r Rs 200-700, with AC Rs 500-1200; Temples hang-out. Rooms have popular backpacker TVs a with BBC and overlook Worldwide candles courtyards with lotus ponds, series of restau- at night and an overpriced flickering staff than happy rant. The attentive is more and travel. tours to organise MIDRANGE Casa Di William .com; s/d Rs 300/400, with air-cooler Rs 350/450, with AC Rs 550/650; Rs 100-300) mango and lemon town in a garden thick with plunder for their cook- guests can which trees, runs yoga classes (7.30am ing. Yogi Sharma for a can attend nonguests to 8.30am), which room and board is small donation, and free his with involved get to guests who offered schools. mission at 10 local Adivasi Rd; r Rs 200-600, with AC Rs khajuraho.com; Jain Temples 750; marble staircases corridors, whitewashed and opting for non-AC, a walled garden. If you’re it’s well worth spending Rs 600 for a room The atmosphere with balcony, bath and TV. and yoga (7am to laid-back, is refreshingly BUDGET BUDGET with into midrange move hotels budget Some rooms. their better small, spartan toilet, rooms with sit-down and TV among shower, air-cooler are bucket a rooftop There’s choices. the best budget other and, as at Yogi Sharma’s restaurant yoga classes (7.30am Lodge, Ashram hotel, to 8.30am). show- rooms with bucket basic but charming and Ayurvedicers, meals. set around a leafy courtyard with a rooftop set around a leafy courtyard with a rooftop course, yoga and massage and, of restaurant Room 651 is across the road from the centre. temples. western here isn’t enough (see left ), there are seven are there ), left isn’t enough (seehere

24hr) 272348; h % 9893912141; ( 272721; Chan- •• Khajuraho PRADESH NORTHERN MADHYA %

( % 272320; Main Rd; ( is announced can organise can organise % (

runs sessions at his 74237; globalvillage@indiatimes %

makes a colourful change a colourful change makes ( 10am-5pm Sat-Thu) 272572; treatment US$25-50; 272572; treatment 5.30am & 6pm) h % , which targets environmental environmental targets , which ( 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) h

Yogi Sudarshan Dwiveda h Government of India tourist office Global Village

Archaeological Museum 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Volunteers can help at workshops run by at workshops can help Volunteers Adivart Tribal & Folk Art Museum

The To avoid adding a tout’s commission to adding a tout’s commission To avoid Apart from the hotels offering yoga, the offering Apart from the hotels of Khajuraho. of Main Rd; homestays in Basari, 27km east a tribal village your bill, get a ride to a place near your chosen your bill, get and walk in alone. pay your driver hotel, available out of season out of (April to September).available Khajuraho’s popularity means a plentiful sup- popularity Khajuraho’s and hefty discounts (20% to 50%) hotels, ply of Sleeping Sleeping problems such as the plastic bags littering as the plastic bags littering problems such Khajuraho. NGO .com; Main Rd) home, with attendant children and cows. children home, with attendant inspiring Vidhya Colony;

the Keralan-run, India Tourism–approved India Tourism–approved the Keralan-run, Lodge Yadav Activities Activities Ayurvedic at treatments The four-handed tures, masks, statues and bamboo flutes. tures, tillist Bhili paintings, terracotta Jhoomar sculp- paintings, terracotta tillist Bhili dela Cultural Centre, Link Rd No 1; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/50; Link Rd No 1; Indian/foreigner dela Cultural Centre, h lection of statues and sculptures from around statues and sculptures lection of north of site to a larger is moving Khajuraho temples. the western The admission Rs 5; MUSEUMS MUSEUMS Khajuraho’s largest temple was abandoned as was abandoned temple largest Khajuraho’s the base around Scattered flagged. resources upper stones from the various misplaced are mounds smaller three nearby are parts while containing unearthed buildings. marble lingam at the apex of the mound. the mound. of the apex lingam at marble carved some exquisitely are Although there carvings unfinished also exca- figures, were been have that what would suggesting vated, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book from the temples. It gives a taste of Madhya Madhya of a taste It gives from the temples. through poin- vibrant tribal culture Pradesh’s by a statue of Ganesh dancing rather sensu- Ganesh by a statue of deity. This col- ously for an elephant-headed win rave reviews and are the perfect way to the perfect and are reviews win rave and touts. temples a day of after rejuvenate on Basti Rd under is setThe lodge to reopen the name Ayur Arogyam. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH end hotel. Meals are Rs200to250. be desired. Itsfacilitiesmatch theothertop- rooms withminibars andsafes leave littleto as stylish asHotel Chandelabutthe82AC ming pool (Rs 300 nonguests) that’s perfect for ming pool(Rs300nonguests)that’sperfect for intheACwith afountain foyerandaswim- Szechwan, inashady courtyardand terrace. dishes such asmacaroni, goulash andchicken favourites,Chinese aswelllessorthodox scrumptious Indianand kilometre zeroserves 80) ette, manywithtemple views. Khajuraho hasarestaurant pal- tosuitevery Eating a tasteful mix of oldandnewfurnishings. boutiques andabookshop.The90rooms feature to 9pm),tworestaurants (mealsRs400to500), include minigolf,badminton,flute recitals (8pm cleansing temple-tired legs.Otheramusements s/d/ste fromRs4000/4300/6000; .com; JhansiRd;s/d/stefromUS$65/75/110; village. deluxeThese hotels are southof themodern TOP END of themodernvillage. among thetrees locationsouth inasecluded 24-hour hotwater andanAC restaurant, set comfy MPTourismhotel withtiledfloors, non-AC/AC Rs690/1190; the more expensive roomsupstairs. temple views.Potplantssitinthewindowsof Rs 60to80)withsomeof Khajuraho’s best soak, andapopularterrace restaurant (meals rooms, hot-water bathtubsforapost-temple the bestmidrange hotels, withcool,spacious Rd;rwithair-cooler/ACRs390/790; .com; Main minimalist décor. rooms have attractive black,white andbrown floors plusalarge The10 windingstaircase. have indeed This quiethotel marble does hotmail.com; s/dRs350/450,withAC550/650; (9am). sessions meditation the roof, which isalsothevenue foryogaand rooms withhotwater andtherestaurant on are viewsacross Shiv Sagarfromthe22breezy Rd;s/dRs300/350,withAC775/975; Main 680 TheSwiss-owned restaurant atKhajuraho’s Raja’s Café Raja’s Chandela Hotel Holiday Inn Siddharth Hotel Palace Marble Hotel Lakeside Hotel Hotel Jhankar Hotel OTENMDY RDS • Kauao MADHYANORTHERN PRADESH••Khajuraho (rajacafé@hotmail.com; Main Rd;dishesRs50- (rajacafé@hotmail.com; Main

( % ( (

%

% (

( % % 272301; www.holidayinnkhajuraho 272355; www.tajhotels.com; Jhansi Rd; 272355; www.tajhotels.com; JhansiRd; a 274063; [email protected]; r 274063; [email protected]; 274627; hotelsiddharth@rediffmail 274120; [email protected];

( ) Dated butcleanand % as 274353; palacemarble@ Five-star hotel Five-star hotel ) ai as a Oneof ) ai There ) Not )

) Rd; Oct-Mar) Folk dancesare alsoperformedinthecom- h Sound-and-light show Entertainment meals Rs80-190) terraneo, try day. every crepes, andbread andcakes baked freshly watering wood-fired pizzas,homemadepasta, this rooftop restaurant Italian formouth- Rs 150-200) show ( sound-and-light below ) fromhere. the –youcan’tsee thestaff Don’t believe view of thetemples, youringabellforservice. the tree-house diningarea, withitsbird’s-eye Japanese andmore traditionaldishes.Upin of aswellitsfineselection Italian, seating Rs 150-200; roof atnight. leaves abittobedesired. Youcansitonthe breakfastsbased thecoldcoffee –although and nonvegetarian, andcurd-and-banana- vegetarianQuality food–IndianandChinese, nonvegetarian curries,soupsandChinese. Indian andGujarati‘all-you-can-eat’meal), grub includingpizza,thali(traditionalsouth ing terrace restaurant offering agoodrange of large antiquesand India-widegoods. group of temples. handicrafts. Also has aboothatthewestern state-produced selling sionate buthelpfulstaff government shop withfixed pricesanddispas- Mrignayani Shopping 9.30pm) ( indoortheatrefortable at operated sculptor’. history of Khajuraho narrated bythe‘master Indian classicalmusicsoundtracksapotted across thetemples of thewestern groupas March-Oct) 7.30pm/8.40pmNov-Feb/English 6.30pm/7.40pm,inHindi % h If yourbudget won’tstretch asfarMedi- Mediterraneo Blue SkyRestaurant Restaurant Ganesh Agrasen Kandariya Art &Culture Art Kandariya atthegovernment-Folk dancingcanbeseen 9.15am-8pm) 274031; JhansiRd;admissionRs300; 8pm-midnight) . , designedtopromote Indianculture. Downing Street Downing Street Technicolour sweep floodlights h Overdosing on thali? Get downto onthali?Get Overdosing Shilpgram

(Jain Temples(Jain Rd;mealsRs60)

(Gole Market; (Gole Market; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 7am-midnight) . Bella Italia Twoshowrooms containing ( % is theonlydiscointown.

( %

(Indian/foreigner Rs50/300; (Jain Temples(Jain Rd;mealsRs50-110)

272246; JainTemples Rd;meals

( h % ( 9425143528; %

( Scores forits balcony % 10am-8pm Wed-Mon) 272301; HolidayInn,Jhansi ( Kandariya Art &Culture Art Kandariya 274120; Main Rd;meals 274120; Main % 274582; JainTemples Rd; 274031; JhansiRd; Upandcom- h h 7-8pm &8.30- 7am-9.30pm h MP in

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

Ken Ken Bilal 681 over- 6.30-10.30am h . are 18km from are 07732-252135; 1/2/3 . % (

07732-275231; Indian/foreign 07732-275231; Indian/foreign 6am-6pm) 07686-272622; Indian/foreigner 07686-272622; Indian/foreigner 1 Oct-30 Jun) %

( 8am-7pm) h % ( Bundelkhand Express Bundelkhand with a useful to introduction h

( h tiger reserve 6am-6pm) 274176; waterfalls h % (

About 2km west of the park entrance is an the park entrance 2km west of About Jhansi is the nearest station Delhi– on the nearest Jhansi is the Cycle-rickshaws should cost about Rs 10 to Cycle-rickshaws should Rs 150, the airport charge to and from Taxis It has a variety of wildlife, including 37 tigers, including 37 tigers, wildlife, It has a variety of (spotted chittals leopards, nilgais (antelope), and sambars. deer), langur monkeys Interpretative Centre Rs 5/50; the area. the history and ecology of Khajuraho – a Rs 300 autorickshaw or Rs – a Rs 300 autorickshaw or Rs Khajuraho journey. While the falls are 400 taxi return wide and tumble as only 30m high they are rocks. black and red mass over a churning (Indian/foreigner boats for hire are There Rs 50/100) and it’s possible to view gharial crocodiles 1km away at river or mugger Gharial Sanctuary this of Gate Satna road passes the Madla The 543-sq-km drive Rs 500/750/1000, video Indian Rs 25/40/60, foreigner Rs 30/800, Rs 200, compulsory guide Rs 75, jeep entry/hire elephant ride Rs 100/600; Indian/foreigner Jun) & 3-5pm 16 Feb-30 6-10am & 2.30-4pm 1 Oct-15 Feb, 32km from Khajuraho. River, along the Ken 15 per kilometre and for a half-day/whole15 per kilometre day the the cost includes sure Rs 100/200. Make Quicker plus waiting time. southern temples an autorickshaw is for the southern temples or for a half-day/at about Rs 20 a kilometre whole day Rs 200/300. while autorickshaws ask Rs 50. AROUND KHAJURAHO Raneh Falls These compulsory guide Rs 40, video Rs 200, autorick- Rs 10/200, shaw/car entry Rs 15/30; the amiable chai (tea) shop owner outside has outside shop owner (tea) chai the amiable timetable. a current line; Satna on the Mumbai– Mumbai train An for Varanasi. line is better Allahabad and the bus to Mahoba to get is alternative train 1107 take 334/788/991, 10 hours, (Rs night to Varanasi 12.34am). Getting Around around flat to get way Bicycle is the favourite bikes and pleasantly Khajuraho; traffic-free from several to hire cost from Rs 20 per day Rd, including Temples places along Jain Bikes train , op- 10am- , at the 8am-noon h h

( 9425143774) 8am-noon & 2-5pm % h (

9.30am-5.30pm) h ticket office 274035; Jhansi Rd; 274416; % % ( 274407; (

PRADESH •• Around Khajuraho NORTHERN MADHYA flies daily to Delhi (US$170, flies daily to Delhi (US$170, % (

off Link Rd No 2. at the bus station. When it’s closed,

To Bamitha costs Rs 300; a jeep, necessary

Prices are fixed but off-season fixed Prices are is a bargaining More buses can be caught at Bamitha, More Three buses run to Satna (Rs 80, 3½ hours, busesThree run to Satna (Rs 80, 3½ hours, Jet Airways Indian Airlines There are regular buses to Jhansi (Rs 90, regular are There Mon-Sat) Train tickets can be bought from the Train tickets reservation office possibility. Costs can be cut by sharing a ride. TRAIN AC Rs 5000/4500), Agra (with/without AC (with/without AC Rs 5000/4500), Agra AC or Jhansi (with/ Rs 6000/5500) and Orchha Rs 2500/2200). without AC costs Rs 1500. National Park, for Panna posite Gole Market, drives to Satna (with/with- drives Gole Market, posite (with/without Rs 1500/1200), Varanasi out AC TAXI Driver Union Taxi Yashowaran 11km away on Hwy 75 where buses between11km away on Hwy 75 where Gwalior, Jhansi and Satna shuttle through all jeep (Rs 10, 7am to 7pm) day. Catch a shared to Bamitha station. from the bus one hour). to Madla for Panna National Park (Rs 25, (Rs 25, National Park for Panna to Madla 7.30am, 2pm and 3pm) and there are regular regular are 7.30am, 2pm and 3pm) and there services and (Rs 40, four hours) to Mahoba day, Thursday and Sunday, a night bus to day, Thursday 3pm). (Rs 190, 14 hours, Varanasi the Jhansi–Delhi Shatabdi train. There’s a bus train. There’s the Jhansi–Delhi Shatabdi 8am) and, on Tues- (Rs 240, 10 hours, to Agra five hours) including deluxe services deluxe including hours) five (Rs 170, 9am and 11.15am); the second connects with The bus station has a BUS BUS airport, flies daily to Delhi (US$175, 1.30pm) airport, flies daily to Delhi (US$120). via Varanasi 4.10pm) and Varanasi (US$120, 1.30pm). 4.10pm) and Varanasi Reserve in advance, as seats can be booked solid for days by tour groups. AIR AIR the nearest railheads. Flying is a good alterna- railheads. the nearest built to link a railway line is being and tive, with Jhansi and Varanasi. Khajuraho like its intrepid Victorian discoverer by the Victorian discoverer its intrepid like of bus journey from one a long, shaky end of Getting There & Away Away There & Getting uncomfortably may feel to Khajuraho Visitors lonelyplanet.com 5.35pm Mon-Sat) & 1.30-7pm) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH the Mahabharata asoneof theplaceswhere a shortdrive eastof Madla, are mentionedin often-closed counter atthetrainstation. Rs 40/300, autorickshaw/jeep entryRs15/30; Rs 40/300,autorickshaw/jeep ringtones on the Lake Princess cruise boat. Princess cruise ringtones ontheLake with orfill thenight race around inspeedboats nicknamed ‘the Bhopal beauty’, thewealthy the Arera andShamla Hills. OnUpperLake, ket; andrestaurants hotels, museums nestle in compete lights for space inNewMar-bright up toitsroleinlife –shopping complexes and South of thetwolakes, lives thestate capital % BHOPAL PRADESH CENTRAL MADHYA Express other timesgoviaPanna (Rs40,fourhours). hours, 6.30am,7am,9.10amand2.30pm).At hotel. station but infinitely preferable tothePepsi-branded isalittleunclean 300m fromthebusstand, View and the busstand There of isaState Bank IndiaATM opposite tions are 3kmapart(Rs20inanautorickshaw). the traintoVaranasi. Thebusand trainsta- city’) ifyoucan–onthebustoKhajuraho or Pass through straight Satna (knownas‘cement % SATNA or inKhajuraho (see p681 ). only;theycanbehiredjeeps atMadla Gate cludes goodiessuch asaherbalmassage. and butterflies free passage. TheJunglePlanin- panelled library-cum-bar, isopentogive breezes building, which hasfacilitiessuch asawood- themed decorationandtheatriumof themain US$130-150; PlanUS$100-110,Jungle person US$50-75,American Panna Gate, NationalPark; Madla ofthejungle.com; twper tures of houses. exile –commemorated byfive smallsculp- the five Pandava brothers duringtheir stayed 682 If youdowashuphere overnight, The besttraintoVaranasi isNo5159 gotoKhajurahoFour buses (Rs65,five oftheJungle Jewel Pandav Falls Transport intheparkispetrol-driven 0755 /pop1.46million 07672 /pop225,470

ETA AHAPAEH • hpl CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••Bhopal ( % (Rs 310/720/892, nine hours, 8am). (Rs310/720/892,ninehours, 8am). 226906; Rewa Rd;s/dfromRs300/475; 226906; Rewa ais

(Indian/foreigner Rs10/100, camera/video MP Tourism MPTourism ( ) % has cottages withanimal- 07732-275241; www.thejewel ( % 225471) h 6am-5pm) Chandra has an has an a ) , , 11pm) Off HamidiaRd. 11pm) Off central bus stand. BookHouse Variety BOOKSHOPS Information New Market. of thecity’sshops,banksandfacilities are in Sadar Manzil (Hall of PublicAudience).Most asktogovia thecauseway, –touse Lake the‘backroad’toeastofto use Lower the newcity.Autorickshawdrivers tend like streets withthebroad,leafyavenues of links theoldcity’sMuslim-dominated, maze- (MapLower Lake p683 which) byacauseway, (Map p683 fromthesmaller) isseparated the mainhotel area. The6-sq-kmUpperLake ofmidia Rd,withineasywalkingdistance areThe trainandbusstations Ha- justoff Orientation boxed text, p684 ). the the world’sworst (see industrialdisaster plant,site ofhistory –theUnionCarbide is areminder of amore recent, more tragic pal inthe19thcentury.Northof theoldcity of thefemale Islamicrulers whobuiltupBho- women inblack concentrationofhighest Muslims–andthe population is40% Muslim –oneof India’s side anarea of bazaars andmosques. Bhopal’s Hamidia Rdisastreak of modernityalong- Rd; Store Medical Raj MEDICAL SERVICES Library British LIBRARIES Train station LEFT LUGGAGE Sunny Internet Hub ACCESSINTERNET h Madhya Pradesh tion ofbooksinEnglish,includingthewonderful h h GTBComplex,Roshanpura Naka; .britishcouncil.org; Market Rd) Market North of thelakes istheoldcity,where h 11.30am-10pm) 10am-9.45pm) Stationery,mapsandagreat selec- 11am-7pm Tue-Sat) Hasareading room. (Map (Map p683 Rd;perhrRs20; Mahal ; Rang 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pmSun) Nearthe (Map (Map p683 ; perpiece/dayRs10; andLonelyPlanettitles. (Map (Map p683 ; (Map (Map p686 ; perhrRs15; (Map (Map p683 ; (Map (Map p686 ; niqabs (Map (Map p683 ; 14-15GTBComplex; % (veils) are reminders % % 2553767; bl.bhopal@in 2540222; Royal 2744728; Hamidia lonelyplanet.com h 8.30am- h Vintage 24hr) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

683 2 km 28 23 Scale (46km) 27 D4 D4 D4 B4 D4 D4 D3 B4 B4 7am- Approximate To Sanchi 200 m 3 head office 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 22 New Market Rd 0.1 miles 7 Nehru Statue 26 h D

(Map p683 ; p683 (Map

24 6 Bhadbhada Rd Bhadbhada 8 Park Rd 1 0 0 8am-8pm) MP Tourism 8am-8pm) MP Tourism 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, regional office incoming flights); h h h (

( p683 ; p683 ( Indian Airlines...... (see 5) Indian Airlines...... (see Jet Airways...... 1 No Rd Link Jehan Numa Palace Hotel...... Jehan Numa Palace Palash Residency...... Bapu Ki Kutia...... Indian Coffee House...... New Inn...... 5) Supermarket...... (see Wind & Waves...... Mrignayani...... Autorickshaw Stand...... Jehan Numa Palace Hotel...... (see 20) Jehan Numa Palace SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT 2774340, MP Tourism hotel reservation

0 0 1 mile

airport Link Rd No 2 No Rd Link 10 Arera Hills % B3 C3 B3 B4 B4 B2 C3 B3 B2 A4 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 train station

Sultania Rd Marg 3295040; Palash Residency, TT3295040; Palash Nagar; Nagar South TT

16 Sapre % 7pm); 11am-1pm 2nd & 3rd Sat); books hotels throughout the state and can organise The head office evenlanguage guides. has a library, and its ticketing Airlines and Jet office sells Indian Airways tickets. 8383, transport ticketing 5572, 2764397; Paryatan Bhavan, Bhadbhada Rd; (Map p683 ; Dangers & Annoyances Dangers & Annoyances working around pickpockets Beware of the train station, bus stand the and along Rd. Hamidia TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION MP Tourism 5 See Inset Bhimbetka (46km)

Lake

To Bhojpur (28km); Lower

(740km) Rd To Delhi Bhadbhada ὈὈ 11

12 la Train 21

Nagar Station Rd Sultania ma

Ka North TT See Hamidia Road Map (p686)

9 gate 20 Sadar Manzil 15 Entrance Moti Masjid...... B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ...... 21) Bhopal-On-Wheels...... (see Birla Museum...... Jama Masjid...... 10) Lakshmi Narayan Temple...... (see MP Tourism Boat Club...... Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya... Sambhavna Trust Clinic...... State Museum...... Taj-ul-Masjid...... ...... ...... B

14 18

Hamidia Rd Hamidia Rd 4

D4 B3 D4 B3 C4 D4 D4 D4 Rd 5288634; 5288634;

2 Union Carbide Rd Carbide Union Rd 25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ia Rd 4234000; GTB 13

2531266; Sultania 2531266; Sultania % Market

VIP ὈὈ ὈὈ

17

yal Hills % Ro % Upper Lake Shamla 10.30am-9pm) Digital and

Van Vihar

National Park Rd h 19 Gate

(Map p683 ; p683 (Map Entrance Drive Lake 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,

PRADESH •• Bhopal CENTRAL MADHYA (Map p683 ; p683 (Map (Map p683 ; p683 (Map h AC Hills

Edgah ὈὈ INFORMATION Central Color Lab...... (see 8) Central Color Lab...... (see Regional Tourist Office...... (see 21) Regional Tourist Office...... (see State Bank of India...... UTI Bank ATM...... Variety Book House...... British Library...... Hamidia Hospital...... Hub...... Main Post Office...... Office...... MP Tourism Head 10am-6pm) There is also a counter at the train is also a counter at the train 10am-6pm) There To Ujjain (184km); Indore (241km) h BHOPAL 2 3 1 4 Airport (12km); Agra (540km); Delhi (740km) To Air Deccan (12km); Rang Mahal Rd; 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) Cashes travellers cheques and at the train also an ATM There’s currency. foreign station. Complex, Bhadbhada Rd; Main post office POST POST Central Color Lab PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY ATMs are marked on the maps. marked are ATMs State Bank of India MONEY MONEY lonelyplanet.com Rd; station. film services. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH Jahan (1868–1901).Thebuilding Begum built byBhopal’s thirdfemale ruler,Shah rets of the you won’tregret it. you canmake thedawn azan(calltoprayer), towering pinkminarets with white domes.If gleaming white oniondomesandapairof Fortresslike wallssurroundthree terracotta and constructiondidnotresume until1971. system,city’s waterworks, railwaysandpostal diverted toherotherprojects includingthe was incomplete atherdeath,asfundswere Masjid One of thelargest mosquesinIndia, MOSQUES Sights &Activities 684 The gold spikes crowningthesquat mina- Bhopal, Trust Andreson continuestoenjoyhisretirement onLongIsland,NewYorkState. former UnionCarbide chairmanWarren hearingsin1992. Andreson, whoabscondedfromcourt in2003toforcethegovernmenthunger strike torequest extradite thatitsAmericancounterpart and sellerdenyongoingliability. over andDowChemical’sacquisitionofUnionCarbide whowasavictim in2001.Bothbuyer process,slowedbytheIndiangovernment’scompensation claims)hasbeenatortuous wrangling million in1989.However, (there winningcompensationforthemanyvictims were aboutamillion disorders. Theirmenopause andskin children ribcages. experiencegrowthdisorders,suchasshrunken 500,000 p away tomassgraves. The continuingdeathtollstandsatover 20,000,whilemore than 3828 initialfatalitiesaccordingtoofficialfigures, althoughtruckloadsofbodieswere secreted cost-cutting measures that,accordingtosome estimates, saved amere US$70aday.There were while others were sodisorientated thattheyranintothegas. heavy gascoursedthroughthecity.Inensuingpanic,peoplewere trampledtryingtoescape from theUS-ownedUnionCarbide chemicalplant(Map p683 ). Blownbythewind,rivers ofthe outover gasleaked On 3December,1984,40tonnesofdeadlymethylisocyanate Bhopal (MIC) THE –ACONTINUINGTRAGEDY our listofprioritiesisstoppingfresh victims.’ American Sambhavnavolunteer toldus. ‘People getpoisonedevery daybythewater –highon of theseareas continuetousethewells. ‘This isnotjust somethingthathappenedin1984,’an have asdangerous. beenmarked Safe water isbroughtin,butnotenough,andtheresidents most ofBhopalisthesameasinrest ofIndia,butinthebastis(slums)nearplant,wells inthesun.Thefrom theplant,where water substancesincludingmercuryandtarliebaking in medicalresearchas advertising, and internet communications. prepared usingherbsfromitsmedicinalgarden.Sambhavnavolunteers alsoworkinareas such medicated oilmassage,steam bathandmedicinalenema)treatments, remedies andAyurvedic day usingyoga,allopathicandPanchakarmic procedure (anAyurvedic fordetoxification through ETA AHAPAEH • hpl CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••Bhopal Union Carbide financedthebuildingofamultimilliondollarhospital,whilecharity The Indiangovernment isalsoreluctant todiscourageforeign investors. Ittooka19-day US$3billiondemandedindamages,UnionCarbide paidtheIndiangovernmentOf US$470 The leakattheplantresulted fromasagaofuntested technology, negligentmaintenance and For more information,visitwww.bhopal.org orwww.bhopal.com, orread Some 25,000peopleare estimated tohave beenpoisonedbychemicalswashedintotheground Mp p683; (Map

Mp p683; (Map theroyaltiesofwhichgotodisaster victims. Jama Masjid Jama Masjid eople suffer anddiabetes fromacatalogueofillnesseshypertension topremature h % closed to non-Muslims Fri) closed tonon-Muslims 2730914; BafnaColony,BerasiaRd) (Map p683 ), builtin Taj-ul- was runs aclinic,treating more than200peoplea It would be easy to lose track of It would be easytolose aday in the plus tribes withoutvisiting anAdivasivillage. about thelife, culture andbeliefsof India’s450- 11am-6.30pm Tue-Sun Mar-Aug) sion Rs 10, vehicle Rs 10; The RASHTRIYA MANAV SANGRAHALAYA red minarets andgold-spiked cupolas. smaller marble-faced mosque withtwodark- in styletotheJama Masjid inDelhi,it’sa ter, SikanderJahan in1860.Similar Begum, daugh- Manzil wasbuiltbyQudsiaBegum’s bazaar below. the skullcapsandveils the swirlingthrough glintserenely above1837 byQudsiaBegum, The Museum of Man ofMan Museum Moti Masjid

h (a 63) er Sadar near p683) (Map (Map p683 ; 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Feb, is the best way to learn isthebestwaytolearn Five Past Midnightin % lonelyplanet.com Sambhavna 2661319; admis- MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

685 safari 32095; 32095; (Map p683 ; % , as well as , as well as motorboat rides The comfortable 2740880; sonalinn@san and two-to-four- ) (Map p683 ; 2740500; ranjeethotels@

offers % a % Palash ResidencyPalash (per 30 min Rs 30) (adult/child 3hr tour Rs 60/30; (adult/child 3hr tour Rs 60/30;

and winding through the

2674278; [email protected]; Indian/ (upper deck/AC lower deck Rs 75/100;

5.30am-7pm) (Map p686 ; (Map p686 ; p686 (Map

% 6.30am-5.30pm Sat-Thu Mar-Sep, from 8am Sat-Thu 6.30am-5.30pm h cruises Upper Lake for 45 minutes, pedalboats h is a guided tour in a dinky open mini- You may want to hire a rickshaw – it’s a rickshaw You may want to hire

is at 4.30pm, when animals including is at 4.30pm, when animals MP Tourism Boat Club (Map p683 ;

6.30pm) 11am) Hotel Ranjit Hotel Sonali Lake Princess 2553066; TT Nagar) charnet.in; 3 Radha Talkies Rd; s/d from Rs 275/350, AC with Rd; s/d from Rs 275/350, AC with charnet.in; 3 Radha Talkies Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya. Sangrahalaya. Rashtriya Manav h ). above from MP Tourism Boat Club ( leaving sunsetIt’s not exactly a serene cruise, with to Hindi young guys doing their best to rave dance floor. top-deck pop on the minute Sleeping ROAD HAMIDIA and both budget offer generally here Hotels rooms, as well as 24-hour check- midrange noisy – ask for Rd are out. Those on Hamidia are hotels a room away from the road. Budget book ahead. full, so often UPPER LAKE UPPER LAKE The Lake Drive Rd; (per 5min Rs 35, minimum 3 people) person boats suitable for 10 people and upwards (Rs 25 to 50 per person). Tours Bhopal-On-Wheels h bus, departing from MP Tourism Boat Club and Narayan Temple, dating back to the 6th century. For those 6th century. back to the dating who a ), there’s p688 ( it to Bhimbetka make don’t the rock shelters. one of of reconstruction PARK NATIONAL VIHAR VAN to visit this 445-hectare best time The park Rs 40/300, autorickshaw/car Rs 15/200, camera/video foreigner Rs 20/40; Oct-Feb) two white tigers, an albino sloth bear and a tigers, two white waiting to their cages of lion pace the edges be fed. the basic interpreta- 5km from the entrance to at the end. tion centre sancharnet.in; 3 Hamidia Rd; s Rs 250-450, d Rs 350-550, with AC s Rs 450-600, d Rs 550-700; hills and the old city. Stops include Lakshmi rooms have hot-water showers and TVs, and showers hot-water and rooms have (meals Rs 80) is deserv-the bar-restaurant its trails behind edly popular, but the hotel near neighbours. %

2661856;

(Map p683 ; % 2660239; ad- PRADESH •• Bhopal MADHYA CENTRAL % museum 9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun) an forest – there is – there an forest (Map ; p683

h

focuses on individual (Map p683 ; Birla Mandir; Arera

(Map p683 ;

exploring the tribal people’s exploring the tribal people’s is an open-air exhibition of exhibition of is an open-air museum 2-8pm Tue-Sun Feb-Oct, 1-7pm Tue-Sun 1-7pm Tue-Sun Feb-Oct, 2-8pm Tue-Sun h

Bharat Bhavan to blend into the landscape – though archaeological museum 2-9pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep,2-9pm Tue-Sun Oct-Feb) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun has a series of marble panels illustrat- has a series of The hilltop As well as dwellings from across India – well as dwellings As Tribal Habitat 2551388; admission Rs 5/51; mythological trail contains a small collection of local sculptures local sculptures contains of a small collection dotted old city. An adjacent dotted Hill) Gita the Bhagavad of ing the central tenets to the minaret- and views across the lakes Lakshmi Narayan Temple Lakshmi Narayan LAKSHMI NARAYAN TEMPLE & TEMPLE & LAKSHMI NARAYAN BIRLA MUSEUM There is a café, and regular evening perform- is a café, and regular There poetry, music and theatre. ances of brary, and private contemporary art galleries. contemporary brary, and private Offering some of Bhopal’s best lake views, the best lake Bhopal’s Offering some of in modern place to take complex is a serene Indian art, tribal carvings and paintings, a li- Architect Charles Correa designed cultural designed Charles Correa Architect centre mission Rs 10; BHARAT BHAVAN BHAVAN BHARAT Elizabeth II takes over the administration of the administration of over Elizabeth II takes India. Jain bronzes unearthed by a surprised farmer Jain Queen in which MP to a letter in western cave paintings, photographs and artefacts and artefacts paintings, photographs cave tracing local and national history; from 87 h with sculptures, stacked rooms boasts 16 AC STATE MUSEUM MUSEUM STATE This their crafts. a through and legends extraordinary myths from the Himalayan foothills to the Rajas-from the Himalayan foothills thani desert and the Oriss right ). Built and maintained Adivasis using by right its authentic traditional tools and materials, by its hillside location. is accentuated feel at the beginning or end of the day – unless the day of at the beginning or end bus (see the Bhopal-On-Wheels you take plements and entire tribal dwellings. entire plements and settings, in village some 30 buildings toured best life from Tamil Nadu to , Pradesh, Nadu to Himachal Tamil from life cooking im- dress, through photographs, art, tribes as well as giving an overview of Adivasi as giving an overviewtribes as well of sprawling complex, overlooking the forested forested the overlooking complex, sprawling ). right ( Park Vihar National the Van hills of Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book this doesn’t preclude multicoloured domes. multicoloured this doesn’t preclude Nov-Jan) Shamla Hills; Rs 5/30, camera/video Rs 20/50; Indian/foreigner % MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH hotel’ rosette. Thecleanandtidyrooms,quiet competing withSonaliforthe‘best midrange put off bythealleywayoutside – Manjeet is cious, shipshape AC roomsletdown onlyby washed walkways leadpast alawnto33spa- Nagar; s/dfromRs1790/2090; sancharnet.in; TT Palash Residency NEW CITY floors andallmodcons. retreats off Hamidia Rd,have sparklingtile sancharnet.in; rRs250-725,ste825-875; morning. andanewspaperunderthedoorin TV ecutive class –withHollywoodfilmsonthe rooms are goodvalue–particularlyinex- Rs 900; s Rs320-370,d400-450,withACs/d570/700,ste desk are compensation. andfacilitiessuch asatravel 24-hour service alittlewornforthemoney,but rooms seem budget accommodation.Themore expensive of roomsincludessomeof thearea’s smartest breakfast fromRs600/675; 686 11 1 3 2 HAMIDIA ROAD Hotel Manjeet Hotel Richa Hotel ETA AHAPAEH • hpl CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••Bhopal a EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Manohar...... Indian CoffeeHouse...... Hotel Sonali...... Hotel Richa...... Hotel Ranjit...... Hotel Manjeet...... Sunny Internet...... State BankofIndiaATM...... Raj MedicalStore...... CC akAM...... D2 ICICI BankATM...... (11km) To Islamnagar ) Beyond thegloomyreception, the Beyond (1.5km) Hamidia Hospital Taj-ul-Masjid (1km); Office (900m); To MainPost AC

Mp p686; (Map winding market

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% Mikas % Rd % 4231980; 1HamidiaRd; 10 ) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Thewiderange 2553066; palashotel@ 2740949; hmanjeet@ C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 A3 A3

Hamidia Rd a Vegetable Market

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iiue oT aa...... D2 Minibuses toTTNagar...... TRANSPORT Central BusStand...... Bhopal TalkiesTempoStand...... Sabzi B Don’t be Don’tbe a )

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) Rd www.hoteljehanumapalace.com; 157 Shamla Hill; inclbreak- www.hoteljehanumapalace.com; 157ShamlaHill; flour noodles). sweet-noodle bright-yellow, elongated special well-to-do. Foramemorable feast, trythe juices, shakes fresh andeven fruittoBhopal’s pizza,snacks,SouthIndianfavourites,nese, Chi- busy team of uniformedwaiters serves Nagar.TT on Hamidia Rdandmidrange restaurants in placesin Bhopal divide intothecheapEating Eating &Drinking swimming pool. cess fromtheirbalconiestothepalm-lined Some more expensive roomshave direct ac- garden. with cosyroomsaroundanenclosed Book aheadtobagacottage –thebestvalue, acter conversion through intoafinehotel. century palacethat’slostnoneof itschar- ste Rs5999-6999; fast, cottages/dRs2299/2799,s2999-4699,d3699-5399, Gurdwara smartest properties. cramped bathrooms.Oneof MPTourism’s Sikh Manohar Manohar 10 Jehan NumaPalace Hotel Jehan

Radha Talkies Rd 13 12 11 A2 A3 (Map (Map p686 ; 6HamidiaRd;mealsRs40) 8 4 5 7 ais To TrainStation(50m); 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Delhi viarail(741km) 9 6 masala dosa Petroleum Bharat 1 ) A formerlate-19th- Mp p683; (Map

13 faluda lonelyplanet.com followedbythe D

Approximate

Nagar (2km) Hamidia Rd Hamidia % Scale (chickpea To TT 2661100; A MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 687 flies This This 4257602; % 778434; Airlines House, (Map p686 ;

2760372, airport 2645676; 8 % also flies daily to Mum- , at the airport, has daily % (Map p683 ;

2645676) 10.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) (Map p683 ; 23 New Market Shopping p683 (Map (glittering embroidery, often often embroidery, (glittering 9.30am-7pm) (Map p683 ;

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central bus stand h 11am-2.30pm & 3.30-8pm Tue-Sun) there are numerous daily buses to are there

h Mrignayani Indian Airlines Jet Airways Air Deccan Many shops carry MP handicrafts – mainly shops carry MP handicrafts Many Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. BUS From the Hamidia Rd) (Rs 31, (Rs 21, one hour), Bhimbetka Vidisha (Rs 22, 1½ hours), one hour), Sanchi (ordinary/deluxe Indore (Rs 27, two hours), five (Rs 103, Ujjain hours), Rs 97/135, five/four (Rs 90, seven 6.15am, hours, Pachmarhi hours), Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Tourism at the MP Flights can also be booked ). p683 ( head office 7.15pm) via Indore daily to Mumbai (US$165, 6.40pm). (US$80) and to Delhi (US$155, Ranjit Towers; bai (US$180, 8pm) and Delhi (US$115, 11am), with an additional Delhi service via Indore (US$90, 6.45pm) every day but Tuesday. flights to Delhi (9.05am or 10.40am budget (9.05am) on and 7pm), going via Jabalpur leys, weaving towards the Jama Masjid ( p704 ), p704 ( Masjid the Jama towards leys, weaving fanci- jewellery, silver gold and stock delicate appliqué saris, hand-embroidered fully woven skirts and or glass) shoulder mirror of including shards Bhopal. of bags, a speciality wood and clay, brass, textiles, silk and cotton to 2000). (prices Rs 50 sculptures and silver higher than prices are ping, though the fixed elsewhere. Centre; Centre; state-owned place offers stress-free shop- stress-free state-owned place offers Bhadbhada Rd; A off 449/1085/1403 10½ 10.40pm(1) 10.30am- 480/1172/1529 14½ 480/1172/1529 5pm 291/601/707 3 291/601/707 3.45pm 2661100; 157 316/737/917 7 11.35pm 316/737/917 h

291/626/743 4 313/703/854 6 7.50am 7.50am 291/626/743 980(a) 8¼ 2.40pm (1) 980(a) 8¼ 2.40pm % 10am-10pm) h Shatabdi Andhra Pradesh Exp Pradesh Andhra Malwa Exp Narmada Exp Punjab Mail Exp Punjab Malwa Exp Amarkantak Exp Amarkantak (Map p683 ; Sultania Rd;

(Map p683 ; . The labyrinthine al-

(marketplace) off Ha- (marketplace) Located between Located the (Map p686 ; Hamidia Rd; meals Rd; meals ; Hamidia p686 (Map

(Map p683 ;

chowk chowk PRADESH •• Bhopal CENTRAL MADHYA (Map p683 ; meals Rs 100; ; meals p683 (Map 11am-11pm) (Map p683 ; Bhadbhada Rd; meals Rs 80) ; Bhadbhada Rd; p683 (Map Bapu Ki Kutia

h Head up the hill to indulge yourself yourself up the hill to indulge Head

supermarket It’s the usual MP Tourism menu, but It’s the usual MP Tourism (snack bar) is so popular you’ll prob- (snack bar)

Not as salubriousNot as as the TT branch Nagar Delhi 2001 Destination Train No & name (Rs) Fare Duration (hr) Departure Delhi 2723 Indore 2920 Indore Jabalpur 8233 Mumbai 2138 2854 Pipariya Ujjain 2920 a – chair car; 1 – via Jhansi, Gwalior & Agra MAJOR TRAINS FROM BHOPAL TRAINS FROM BHOPAL MAJOR The Wind & Waves

Jehan Hotel Numa Palace New Inn o Indian Coffee House Indian

in both markets, prices are more reasonable in reasonable more prices are in both markets, the atmospheric Shopping Shopping New are areas two main shopping Bhopal’s and the Market where fish in piquant sauces is a speciality. where Trattoria, the fountain-side Under the Mango Trattoria, the fountain-side Under the Mango (meals Rs 300), and the grand Shahnama Tree, at the lavish hotel’s two bars (beer from Rs 70) two bars hotel’s at the lavish Caféchino café, Laand four eateries: Kuchina Shamla Hill) the Upper Lake. Perfect for a pre–Tribal Habi- for a pre–Tribal Perfect the Upper Lake. or a sunset beer, Lake off it’s tat power-up Rd. Drive ples ‘from the soup tureen’ for the view across ples ‘from the soup tureen’ but there is also a good selection of soups, is also a good selection of but there suey. noodles and chop between marble walls and painted windows. between and painted marble walls pricey, are kebabs, of including a range Mains, popular TT bustle waiters Nagar haunt where ably have to share a table. Its name means a table. to share ably have Shack’. ‘Papa’s meals Rs 50; Nehru statue and Café this quality Day, Coffee dhaba (Map p683 ), on New Market Rd, but nonethe- Market ), on New p683 (Map coffee filter of a breakfast a top spot for less eggs.and scrambled Rs 50) lonelyplanet.com midia Rd. While similar items can be found midia Rd. While similar items it’s worth facing those ‘mood lifters’ and sta- it’s worth facing those ‘mood lifters’ 10.30pm) Bhadbhada Rd has a good range of items for items of a good range Rd has Bhadbhada DIY eating. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH lake wasunfortunately destroyed byHoshang in Bhojpur, 28kmsoutheastof Bhopal. The constructed anestimated 400-sq-km lake BhojRaja (1010–53),founderof Bhopal, Bhojpur change, ortake anautorickshaw(Rs100). p686 you willprobably have), though to the nearby presumably delivered byoutsizedporters from massive eight irontreasureOutside stand chests, Mahal withasturdilycolonnaded Diwan-i-Am. in thedark,coolinterior. bath) withchanging roomsandwater troughs view of localhistory,anda interpretation centre, givingafragmented channels There andfountains. are alsoan water gardenwithsporadicallyfunctional ing eaves. ThemainattractionistheMughal architecture droop- withBengali-influenced synthesis of traditional Indianand Islamic Tue-Sat) foreigner Rs5/100,camera/video20/50; palaces, twovillagesenclose andremains includingtwo walls the early18thcentury.Thestill-standing occupiedandrenamedhammed Khan itin Jagdishpur before bytheRajputs DostMo- the first of capital , foundedas This fortifiedcity 11km northof Bhopal was Islamnagar AROUND BHOPAL and driver fromRs750perday. MPTourism( taxi. p683 ) canorganise acar pect topayRs100/200foranautorickshaw/ The airportis16kmfromcentralBhopal; ex- a fare shouldworkoutnomore expensively. shaws often have meters; unused negotiating autorickshaw costsabout Rs40.Autorick- from thecornerof Hamidia Rd,whilean depart Nagarconstantly forTT Minibuses Getting Around book ahead(Rs15). 2.30pm); 7.30am; 1.30pm,fromthebusstand (Rs 135,fourhours, 7am,fromthebusstand marhi (Rs103,sixhours, 6.45am)andIndore Residency Jabalpur (Rs160,10hours). 8.15am, 10.15am,11.45amand3.30pm) 688 Adjacent is the dusty 19th-century Rani Adjacent isthedusty19th-centuryRani The 18th-centuryChamanMahal isa runsfrom MP Tourism’s18-seater Catch a tempo Rd(MapCatch (Rs 6)upBeresia ETA AHAPAEH • rudBoa CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••AroundBhopal . Chaman Mahal Mp p683; (Map hathi khana % 2553066; TT Nagar) 2553066; TT and (elephantstables). hammam Rani Mahal Rani

h toPach- 10am-5pm (Turkish

(Indian/ Palash Palash h paintings. 600 46kmsouthofcliffs, Bhopal, are more than Secreted ina forest of incraggy teak and sal Bhimbetka road tothetemple. Bhojpur (Rs10),where tempos (Rs7)plythe rock showgrandfuture plans. tracing boards,andlinesstilletched intothe nearby rockyslopeslooktohave as used been ies of itscontemporaries. Fenced-off areas on meant tofollow,thistemple lacksthefiner- andpresumably more weresome carvings, an enormous2.5mlingam. While there are unusual –anunrefined rectangle thathouses of thenorth(see p745 ), theShiva temple is haul masonry.SometimescalledtheSomnath the temple are theremains of to arampused the buildingwasneve squatting onasmallhill.Forsomereason 15th century. Shah, rulerof Mandu, inapiquetheearly (186km) To Indore Gunaga AROUND BHOPAL Take theBhimbetka for bustotheturn-off isthe What didsurvive dawn-dusk) 12 rock shelters Shamsabad Islamnagar Bhopal Berasia 12 ; Bhimbetka

almost half contain prehistoricalmost halfcontain Reservoir Halali

(Indian/foreigner Rs2/10,vehicle10; Pipalkhera Diwanganj Satdhara Bhojpur Satpara Obaidullaganj Udaigiri r finishedandbehind Caves Nateran Itarsi (25km);Pipariya (172km); Udaigiri To Hoshangabad(12km);

Beas Bhojeshwar Temple Pachmarhi (259km) Sanchi

Betwa 6miles 10km 0 0 Andher lonelyplanet.com Heliodorus To Jhansi (280km) Sonari Pillar Raisen Vidisha River River Basoda To Gyaraspur Udayapur Narwar (30km) ,

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 689 sells sells 10.30am- h 10am-5pm) 8.30am-10.30pm) h (

9am-5pm Mon-Sat) h h (gateways) that are the that are (gateways) are reached via a path reached are

(Indian/foreigner Rs 10/250, car Rs 10, (Indian/foreigner 266724; Monuments Rd; consulta- (per hr Rs 30; 266732; Monuments Rd; toranas toranas dawn-dusk) % 8am-1pm & 5-6pm Mon-Sat) ( % stupas ( h (Monuments Rd; h publication sale counter Although Sanchi can be visited from Bho- can be visited Although Sanchi If you’re going up to the stupas for sunrise, If you’re As gradually reabsorbed Bud- gradually reabsorbed Hinduism As cently carved and art at Sanchi finest Buddhist works of possibly in India. TORANAS around 35 BC erected were Four gateways fallen down at the and had all completely museum Rs 5; Monuments Rd. at the end of and stone steps The guidebooks and postcards. Remember that the day before. buy a ticket walk clockwiseyou should around all Bud- dhist monuments. 1 STUPA Beautifully Stupa proportioned, the Great on the hill. Originally is the main structure enlarged it was later by Ashoka, constructed and the original brick stupa enclosed within it stands Presently 16m higha stone one. and A wall encircles the stupa. 37m in diameter. four entrances through magnifi- are There Orientation & Information Orientation & Information Monu- road intersects The Bhopal–Vidisha the train station leads from ments Rd, which to the hill with the stupas. Canara Bank Health centre tion Rs 100; Post office Sanjeev Internet Sights The hilltop dhist monument in the region and many other and many the region in dhist monument followed. structures religious decayed and was forgotten. site dhism, the its army officerIn 1818 a British rediscovered the at to immense leading damage treasures, and treasure archaeologists amateur hands of place took restoration a proper before hunters between 1881 and 1919. spot to is a relaxing pal, the crossroads village at best visited spend the night. are The stupas the stone still glows dawn and at dusk, when sinks be- the day as the sun with the heat of hind the surrounding hills. At the market. 2.30pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat) Changes 2.30pm Mon-Tue up to Rs 15,000. travellers cheques and currency (S4), features a features S15 Zoo Rock Shelter PRADESH •• Sanchi CENTRAL MADHYA

07482 / pop 6790 On the return journey, flag down a bus on On the return The oldest paintings (Upper Palaeolithic) Palaeolithic) The oldest paintings (Upper

In 262 BC, repentant of the horrors he had he had In 262 BC, the horrors of repentant The rock shelters are easy to find; 15 are 15 are easy to find; are The rock shelters Thanks to their natural red and white white and natural red to their Thanks he built the Great Stupa at Sanchi, near the Sanchi, Stupa at he built the Great A domed edifice used his wife. birthplace of Bud- the first it was relics, to house religious inflicted on Kalinga in present-day Orissa, in present-day on Kalinga inflicted (see the boxed emperor Ashoka the Mauryan a penance ) embraced . As p41 text,

Rising from the plains, 46km northeast of Rising from the plains, 46km northeast of with some is a rounded hill topped Bhopal, India’s oldest Buddhist structures. of SANCHI SANCHI % from MP Tourism in Bhopal (see p683 ). p683 (seefrom MP Tourism in Bhopal wait. If you want to visit both Bhimbetka and wait. If you want to visit both Bhimbetka Rs 850) it’s worth hiring a car (about Bhojpur, hills. Alternatively, take an autorickshaw from an autorickshaw take hills. Alternatively, Obaidullaganj. to the main road, or pay your autorickshaw Ask your bus driver to drop you at the turn- your bus driver Ask 6.5km southeast of about ing for Bhimbetka, blue sign in Follow the large Obaidullaganj. arrow pointing ‘3.2’ right, Hindi with a red the railway line for a 3km walk into crossing GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE huge red bison attacking a helpless stick figure. bison attacking a helpless stick figure. red huge so bring water. no facilities here, are There famous for its variety of animal paintings, is famous for its variety of you come to; the first one of edgeable guide (agree on a fee beforehand) beforehand) fee on a guide (agree edgeable paintings and obscure will point out the more explain their significance. accessible, signposted with a number (S1 to accessible, signposted path. A knowl- by a concrete S15) and linked of the artistry was lost. of latest are crude, geometric figures probably probably figures crude, geometric are latest dating from the medieval when much period, communities on the Malwa plains, and, still plains, and, communities on the Malwa gods. The scenes involving tree religious later, up to 12,000 years old. Successive periods de- old. Successive up to 12,000 years with the agricultural pict hunting tools, trade in white, often of huge animals, are probably probably animals, are huge of often in white, bears and tigers, hunting scenes, initiation cer- hunting scenes, initiation and tigers, bears and communal dancing emonies, childbirth, and burials. rites drinking sessions, religious gamut of figures and scenes spill across the and scenes figures gamut of buffaloesrocks: wild rhinoceroses, (gaurs), preserved and, in certain caves, paintings of preserved paintings of in certain and, caves, A same eras adorn the rock surface. different pigments, the colours are remarkably well- remarkably are the colours pigments, lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 690 New JaiswalLodge 24 SANCHI 4 6 1 3 2 5 14 Bhopal (46km) To Raisen(23km); Bus Stand...... Bicycle Hire...... Pathak Restaurant...... House...... Jaiswal Lodge...... Gateway Lodge...... Vihara...... Ticket Office...... Temple 40...... Temple 31...... Temple 18...... Temple 17...... Stupa 5...... Stupa 4...... Stupa 3...... Stupa 2...... Stupa 1...... Publication SaleCounter...... Pillar 35...... Pillar 25...... Pillar 10(Ashoka)...... Monastery 51...... Monasteries 45,46,47...... Great Bowl...... (see8) Building 43...... Archaeological Museum...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES aea aeei...... B2 Gateway Cafeteria...... Sri LankaMahabodhiSocietyGuest 28 ETA AHAPAEH • aci CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••Sanchi Post Office...... Health Centre...... Canara Bank...... INFORMATION aje nent...... A2 Sanjeev Internet......

Bhopal-Vidish 30 4 A 29 1 Train Station 0.1miles 100m 0 0 a Rd 26 2

Tank 8 Monuments Rd Monuments 25 27 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 22 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Steps B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 A3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B2 A2 A2 A2 A2 B2 A2 B3 B2 5 B2 A2 A2 11 19 Gate 13 B To Vidisha(10km); Udayapur (65km) Gyraspur (41km); 3 12 Caves (14km); Pillar (17km); Heliodorus 9 18 17 Udaigiri 10 21 15 16 23 6 20 7 lars, supported byelephants,features scenes Sanchi’s best-known images. Oneof thepil- shi, figureThe breathtakingly of carved a Eastern Gateway hang nonchalantly oneach side. Delicatelybetween. carved with riders andmore in elephantssqueeze chitraves above thecolumns,whilehorses road intotheair. Elephantssupportthear- again intheformof abodhitree, ascends a miracles represented here –inwhich Buddha, depicts theMiracleof Sravasti –oneof several represented byabodhitree. Anotherpanel a monkey offering abowlof honeytoBuddha, of the best preserved Topped byabroken of wheel law,thisisthe GatewayNorthern Buddha. presence. alsosymbolises Thestupaitself teachings, andthefootprintthronehis bodhi tree his thewheel hisenlightenment, forhisbirth,thesymbols. Thelotusstands directly –hispresence wasalludedtothrough representedin Buddhistarthewasnever from Buddha’svariouslives. Atthisstage are fromtheJatakas, mainly tales episodes onto thepillars andtheirtriplearchitraves time of thestupa’srestoration. Scenescarved die of remorse. to for thequeen the hunter, wassufficient of by off and killed.Thesight histusks,sawn became jealousand hadtheelephanthunted a six-tusked elephant. One of histwowives Jataka, inwhich Buddhatookthe formof Departure. Alsofeatured is theChhaddanta birth andanotherrepresentation of theGreat life asaBuddhist,withscenes of Buddha’s of that era. The gateway narrates Ashoka’s excellent exampleof theGreco-Buddhist art banknote; onevery they’recan beseen an gateway emblemof formthestate Indiaand The back-to-back lionssupportingtheoldest Southern Gateway enlightenment. renounced life outtofind thesensual andset Departure, whenBuddha(ariderless horse) front of themiddlearchitrave istheGreat she hadwhenhewasconceived. Across the onthemoon,whichan elephantstanding shows Buddha’smotherMaya’s dream of Another from Buddha’sentrytonirvana. hangingfromanarchitrave, isoneof toranas yakshis lonelyplanet.com . Scenesinclude (maidens) yak- MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH ,

691 , slightly Temple 17 Temple , carved from has a small hanging from was built in the was built in Temple 40 Temple , standing on the yakshi 47 Great Bowl 266723; tl_san@sancharnet , partway down the hill was built to house the Temple 31 Temple and % 266610; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; s/d 266610; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; s/d ( 10am-5pm Sat-Thu)

% Visiting Buddhists stay here Visiting Buddhists stay here ( 9am-5pm) e’s even a prayer room. The e’s even a prayer room. The h ) ( Southwest of town, this has the Southwest of

)

h a ( Monastery 51

a Set to be renamed Krishna Lodge, the Lodge, Set Krishna to be renamed Monasteries 45 vihara museum 2266699; Monuments Rd; r Rs 100-250, with AC & bath- The rectangular The rectangular Gateway Lodge Mahabodhi Society Guest House Behind % 6th or 7th century but reconstructed during during but reconstructed 6th or 7th century 11th century. It containsthe 10th or a well- may come which Buddha, of image executed as it doesn’t temple from another exactly fit its pedestal. rooms around a garden quad- cloistered in ther rangle – if friendly and it’s a good choice monks are you don’t mind basic rooms. Rs 890/1290; southeast, in part dates back to the Ashokan back to the Ashokan part dates southeast, in period. the lion capital pieces are most interesting a pillar, from the Ashoka Buddha and beautifully serene a mango tree, the earliest sandstone – some of in red figures found anywhere. Sleeping & Eating Jaiswal Lodge Rs 100/200) (New Jaiswal hotels the two Jaiswal of better is up near the train station) has sim- Lodge rooms with sit-down toilets and ple rooftop It’s and a basic restaurant. showers, bucket the pharmacy. above ( room Rs 450; central courtyard surrounded by monastic by monastic central courtyard surrounded cells. transition from from the date ridge, eastern with strong Hindu Buddhism to Hinduism, The former has two elements in their design. exceptional sitting Buddhas. towards Stupa 2, is the food and offerings boulder, into which a huge to the monks. placed for distribution were The from Stupa 3. They can be relics returned the month. viewed on the last Sunday of MUSEUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL This The from the site. sculptures collection of ered beneath it. Nearby is the small is the small it. Nearby beneath ered The large also Greek-like. MONASTERIES wood made of were monasteries The earliest a plan is of The usual long gone. and are .in; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; r with breakfast & air-cooler/AC & air-cooler/AC .in; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; r with breakfast , , Stupa 5 are not are Pillar 25 PRADESH •• Sanchi MADHYA CENTRAL Pillar 35 stands Stupa behind (prayer room or as- (resting place). (resting , erected by Ashoka and by Ashoka , erected is halfway down the hill is halfway down the hill Stupa 4 chaitya vihara Stupa 2 Pillar 10 is a is northeast of the main stupa and is northeast of Stupa 3 Now almost totally destroyed, the plain Now almost totally destroyed, the plain of earlier wooden buildings have been discov- earlier wooden buildings have of dating from the Sunga period (2nd century BC) and the 5th-century-AD as fine as the earlier pillar. buildings. It dates Greek-columned classical from around the 7th century AD, but traces TEMPLES TEMPLES Temple 18 style to similar in sembly hall) remarkably 20m away; the capital (pillar’s top, usually ). right is in the museumsculpted) ( sections of this beautifully proportioned and sections of shaft lie side by side under a shelter executed later broken by a local landowner. Two upper by a local landowner. broken later PILLARS PILLARS the most pillars, of remains Of the scattered important is unusual in that it once had an image of Bud- of unusual in that it once had an image dha, now displayed in the museum. 2nd-century-BC 3. Between Stupas 1 and 3 is the small in the modern boxed text, p663 ). They were moved to London moved ). They were p663 text, boxed now kept in 1953 and are in 1853 but returned completion of Stupa 1. It once contained relics completion of Buddha (see two important disciples of theof similar in design, though smaller. With a single, similar in design, though smaller. the it may just postdate rather fine gateway, main route you can walk back down via Stupa you can walk back main route ‘medallions’ decorate gateways, of 2. Instead in design, but naïve the surrounding wall – ani- and imagination. Flowers, energy full of mythological – ring mals and people – some the stupa. Great Stupa. Stupa. Great from the town by the to the west. If you come votive ones less than 1m high. Ashoka built ones less than 1m high. Ashoka votive including the remain, eight, but only three OTHER STUPAS STUPAS OTHER them tiny hill, some of the Lesser stupas cover as a tree. The rear of one pillar shows Buddha shows one pillar of The rear as a tree. while de- Mara, of the Temptation resisting The Chhaddanta cheer. mons flee and angels again. features Jataka Buddha in seven different incarnations, mani- incarnations, Buddha in seven different four times times as a stupa and three fested this gateway, which has some of the site’s most the site’s has some of which this gateway, shows top architrave scenes. The interesting Western Gateway Gateway Western of architraves support the dwarfs Potbellied Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH the Mughals tothe Scindias. the Mughals thehands of through from everyone passed the Buddhistemperor Ashoka’s reign, then during itwasknownas Besnagar Later, BC. mercial centre inthe5th and6thcenturies Rivers, wasamajor andBes com- the Betwa Vidisha, 10kmnortheastof Sanchi inaforkof % Vidisha hilltop 23km southof Sanchi, hasalarge, colourful ple the large, red-sandstone About 65kmnortheastof Sanchi, ples datingfromthe9thand10thcenturies. tem-Sanchi, is noted fortwodelicately carved the discovery of Sanchi. stupas, unearthedin1851following preserved of Satdhara,there are three smallbutwell- At are stillintact. manyofcause itscarvings stupas,oneof be- has eight themimportant at Sanchi. nonematchBuddhist sites, those although ofWithin cyclingdistance Sanchi are more AROUND SANCHI about Rs5perhour. the opposite direction. to Sanchi, andtrainsat10am5.30pmin at 4.30pm.There are trains manypassenger leaving Sanchi 8.10am, withthereturn service Rs271,45minutes)(sleeper departsBhopal at also 20 minutes). See p687 . Bhopal (Rs 22,1½hours) andVidisha (Rs5, Frequent connectSanchi with localbuses Getting There&Around Rs 490/590). two air-cooled bedrooms(singles/doubles ( producing cheap, heartyvegetarian meals. Among thesmallrestaurants atthebusstand lows, verandas overlooking thegarden. patterned bathroomtilesand,inthebunga- architecture. Roomshave bedspreads, bright edge onthecompetitioninqualityand’70s 692 30m indiameter. At River, are anothertwostupas, one the Beas % You canrent bicyclesatthemarket for Train 8235 MP Tourismalsoruns Pathak Restaurant Further afield, , thought tohave, thought builtin1059. been 07592 /pop125,460 Satdhara 266743; MonumentsRd;mealsRs70) ETA AHAPAEH • rudSnh CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••AroundSanchi fort fort Sonari built around1200. , westof Sanchi onthebanksof , 16kmsoutheastof Sanchi, Bhopal Gyraspur

(meals Rs20; Andher – Neelkantheswara , 41km northeastof Bilaspur Express Gateway Cafeteria Gateway , 20km southeast h , which has Udayapur 10am-10pm) Raisen

Tem- has

, Indian/foreigner Rs2/20,camera20; Sun) inscription. Mostare Hindubuttwoare Jain II(382–401)accordingtoan Chandragupta flank theentrancetoCave 6.Lotus-ceilinged tion toppedwithafriezeof gods,whoalso perb image of Vishnuinhisboarincarna- complete withathirdeye. Cave 5hasasu- ASI caretaker onhandtoshow youaround. duetounsafe roofs.closed There maybean (Caves 1and20)–unfortunately bothare shrines west of Vidisha,are some20Gupta Cut into a sandstone hill, about 5kmnorth- Udaigiri Caves an autorickshaw(Rs60). from Sanchi (bothRs5,20minutes) ortake the bustymaidensandwine. god–theonewith man, andKamdev, thesex couple,a13th-centuryHanu-century serpent Other ancientresidents includean11th- ofstatue KuberYaksha, treasurer of thegods. stone ticket 2nd-centuryBC isa3m-high, dusty Finds fromlocalsites are displayedinthe is alsoasun-worshipping temple, ofsibly theearliestuse cementinIndia. There in Pakistan). Heliodorus,ambassador, fromTaxila (now itwaserectedAn inscriptionsays byaGreek and dedicated to Vasudeva.about 140BC to (see above onfor3km) continuestraight Instead of turningleftfortheUdaigiriCaves Heliodorus Pillar to thecaves, another3km. this roadover theriver andtake thefirst left about 500mfurtheralong,andturn left.Take ataT-junctionturn right toanotherjunction island/sign.After 2km tion andstonetraffic left 1kmafter theriver atanobviousintersec- from Sanchi, cycletowardsVidishaandturn (Rs 200return). Toreach thecaves bybicycle fromSanchiVidisha (Rs50)orstraight to thesungod. ruins of temple a6th-centuryGupta dedicated II.OnthetopofChandragupta thehillare Cave of 7wascutoutfor thepersonal use shrine To get there, take anautorickshawfrom In Cave 4isalingam bearingShiva’s face There are frequent andshared buses jeeps Heliodorus Pillar . Musclingover youaspayforyour The ruins of a 2nd-century BC The ruinsof a2nd-centuryBC District Museum Museum District

here showtracesof pos- limemortar, ( h dawn-dusk) (Khamb Baba), erected Baba), (Khamb in datingfromthereign of ( % 250592; Sagar

lonelyplanet.com h 10am-5pm Tue- Bija Mandal Brahmanical Brahmanical - Vidisha Rd; cave cave . MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

9am- 693 225130; 7am- (Rs 100; (Rs 100; h (Monte (Monte

, Pach- , (1308m), % h

( Priyadarshini 252256; Astachal , also known as bus tour % (

Koh Chauragarh

10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Bison Lodge 8am-noon & 4-7pm Tue-Sun 8am-noon & 4-7pm Tue-Sun 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) from the trailhead of from the trailhead of Club

h , where a path 30m into , where h h

Handi Falls

(Patel Rd; per hr Rs 40; Rd; per hr Rs 40; (Patel (cnr main road & Patel Rd) Master- (cnr main road & Patel Cave

252100; 252050; Trekking

% Duchess ( % , might require a guide. , might require covers most of the following sights, most of covers ( Tola Mahadeo , based at Hotel Saketh, off Patel Rd. His off Patel , based Saketh, at Hotel 9.30am) The Shiva shrine atop The Shiva Most of Pachmarhi’s sights are accessible sights are Pachmarhi’s Most of Sights and midrange accommodation are are accommodation Sights midrange and About 3km beyond Priyadarshini the road 3km beyond Priyadarshini About MP Tourism’s one-day Discuss hiking plans with helpful Vinay into the dense forest. You’ll spy Chauragarh You’ll into the dense forest. and in the distance from here Point). (Forsyth ends at a lingam with at- the damp gloom reveals the priest. This is the beginning of tendant Sahu of Sahu of 5pm) or staying camping at an Adivasi village of (Rs 1500 including food and transport). h to Chauragh, then down to Priyadarshini Cave. Mahadeo Pradesh’s third-highest attracts peak, Madhya pilgrims during Shivar- thousands of of tens ). On the p663 text, (see the boxed atri Mela stop at way there, Suicide Point, to gawk down the 100m canyon State Bank of India Sights & Activities Captain named Forsyth Rs 15/200; Indian/foreigner Apr-Oct, Nov-Mar) 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun bison of a herd after lodge, forest marhi’s first mu- It’s now an interesting here. he spotted seum flora and fauna focusing on the history, the Satpura region. of demanding walk. More by road and a short as those such around hikes, has a bazaar and several hotels, before running running and severalhas a bazaar before hotels, the seven-way 2km to for about southwest Jaistambha. junction called a bicycle – it’s pleas- so hire out, rather spread ant riding. Information Bagri Internet Cafe MP Tourism Post office Brochures, plus advice on accommodation and excursions. and excursions. plus advice on accommodation Brochures, At the bus stand. Card and Visa ATM. 11pm) Rosa) and Reechgarh guides (Rs 200 per person per day) can take per day) can take guides (Rs 200 per person you deep into the highlands, with the option while Tola Trekking Club offers a hike from a hike Club offers while Tola Trekking goes to goes to Varanasi goes to Varanasi 222299; [email protected]; 222299; [email protected]; Jabalpur–Veraval Express Express Jabalpur–Veraval % (

PRADESH •• Pipariya CENTRAL MADHYA Amarkantak

have fans, TVs have showers. and bucket Mahanagari Express Mahanagari

07578 / pop 11,370 / elev 1067m 07576 / pop 4490 Tourism Motel

Explorer Captain J Forsyth ‘discovered’ CaptainExplorer ‘discovered’ J Forsyth Train 2853 Alternatively there are buses 35, two (Rs are there Alternatively Jeeps go to Pachmarhi (back seat Rs 40, go to Pachmarhi Jeeps MP Tourism’s two rooms near the bus standMP Tourism’s two rooms The pillar is worshipped by local fishermen. by local is worshipped The pillar

at the northwest end of the small town, which the small town, which at the northwest end of Orientation The road from Pipariya passes the bus stand here, starting an association with the military here, today. that remains Always keen to move to a cool hill station, to move Always keen headquarters the British army set up regional Pachmarhi as late as 1857 and set as late up the first Pachmarhi in 1862. Lodge Department at Bison Forestry mass religious meetings held by big-name meetings big-name held by religious mass gurus and to scale Chauragarh, or simply to in a cool climate. go trekking National Park and rock paintings dating back and rock paintings dating back National Park to attend flock here Visitors 10,000 years. tain town is surrounded by waterfalls, cave cave tain town is surrounded by waterfalls, the Satpura of ranges the forested temples, % Pradesh’s hill station a long feels Madhya The moun- . way from steamy 1093 1.40pm) daily. (Rs 431/1062/1383, 15 hours, PACHMARHI (Rs 271/571/677, 4½ hours, 2.25pm) on 2.25pm) on (Rs 271/571/677, 4½ hours, Tuesday to Friday and Sunday. Train Bhopal (Rs 291/601/707, 3½ hours, 7am) 7am) 3½ hours, (Rs 291/601/707, Bhopal daily and No 1464 hours, 10am, 11am, 2.30pm and 7.30pm) and hours, MP Tourism’s 18-seater (Rs 43, two hours, 11.30am). your driver to break the journey at Denwa to break your driver View lookout. front seat Rs 150, two hours) at all hours. Ask Ask front seat at all hours. hours) Rs 150, two at r Rs 390) way footbridge exits into the bus stand. way footbridge This small town is the road and rail junction small town is the road and rail junction This 54km up in the hills. The rail- for Pachmarhi, PIPARIYA PIPARIYA % nut, a red thread, and supposedly the spirit. thread, nut, a red old nails. is bristling with tree The large exorcised, they drive a nail into the tamarind a nail into the exorcised, drive they coco- of fixing to it a lime, a piece nearby, tree becomes possessed evil to drive spir- and is able has been locals. When someone its from other On full moon nights one is chained to the pillar, moon nightsOn full one is chained lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH is hidden underahuge overhanging rock. north of thetownlimits. The smallShiva shrine 2.5km alongagood trackthat’ssignedjust ofthe base thefalls. of flights stepsseveral leadtoalookoutand Fromthechai atthebottom,a jeep. stalls the optionof a2kmhike downhill or sharing againdownadirt road.Youhavethen right accessible. southof Turnright Christchurch, Rs 100,hired jeepRs200; open afissure inthecliff. ingly narrowpassage created bysticksholding another hours’ return hike). Akilometre furtheron, 1365-step pilgrimtrailtoChauragarh(five 694 4 1 3 2 PACHMARHI Jata Bee Falls ETA AHAPAEH • ahah CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH••Pachmarhi Bison Lodge...... Bee Falls...... Astachal (MonteRosa)...... Apsara Vihar(FairyPool)...... (see14) State BankofIndiaATM...... Post Office...... MP Tourism...... ar nentCf...... A4 Bagri InternetCafe...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Dhoopgarh

Shankar (1352m)

4 Shiva 19

AC

(Indian/foreigner Rs15/200,ownpetrol4WD

Subhash Rd Subhash Arvindar Marg Arvindar

Pachmarhi 18

isacave temple ina gorge about shrine

1

2

25

Bus Stand h isatthebackof aterrify- 20 8am-7pm)

Patel Rd 24 4 3 2 1 7 6 5

Not to Scale

Market

Area C2 C2 B2 A4 C2 A3 are popularand 5 8 Tola TrekkingClub...... (see20) Shiva Shrine...... Reechgarh...... ...... Priyadarshini (ForsythPoint)...... Pandav Caves...... Panchuli Kund...... (see14) Mahadeo Cave...... Jata Shankar...... Handi Khoh...... Duchess Falls...... B 15 Mahadeo Pahar Padmini Jheel (1321m) Pool). ing rock pools leadingto forest nearbyare Inthe cascades downagulley inasheer cliff. Rs 200; (Indian/foreigner Rs15/200,ownpetrol4WD100, hired jeep track leadsfromthecarparkto century. byBuddhistsas earlyasthe4th carved been top of thecaves, which are tohave believed brick Buddhiststupahave excavated been on ing their13-yearexile. Thefoundationsof a caves, some2kmsoutheastof Jaistambha, dur- ers, of inthefive theMahabharata, stayed Caves 6

Pachmarhi’s namederives from About 1kmsoutheast of thecaves, a1km Den 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

. Legend hasitthatthePandava. Legend broth- wa 9 8 h

11

6miles 10km 0 0 22

C4 B2 D3 C4 C3 C4 D1 C3 B2 Ri ver 8am-7pm) 23 3 Approximate 13 9 Jaistambha 16 Scale 21 7 , orBigFall, where awaterfall (1127m) Christchurch Pahar Panchuli Kund it edw oe...... A4 Misty MeadowsHotel...... Baba Cycles...... Rock-End Manor...... Nilamber Cottages...... Nandavan Cottages...... Hotel Saketh...... Hotel Natraj...... Hotel Khalsa...... Hotel Highlands...... Park ViewHotel...... (see25) TRANSPORT SLEEPING

12 See Enlargement See Chauragarh 10 To Pipariya(54km) Apsara Vihar (1308m) Pachmarhi 14 lonelyplanet.com 17 , five descend- D Rajat Prapat Rajat Pandav (Fairy 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 B4 C2 C2 C2 A4 A3 A4 D2

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 695 9.15am- . h rents out rents 252855; Patel Rd) 252855; Patel

(Subhash Rd; 252136; Patel Rd) 252136; Patel % (

252079; mptremph@sancharnet Pachmarhi’s top hotel, hotel, top Pachmarhi’s ) % ( % a ( Baba Cycles Park ViewPark Hotel hires out bikes (per 24 hours Rs 30) and 24 hours (per out bikes hires 0734 / pop 429,930 Rock-End Manor The holy city is one of the sites of the the of the sites The holy city is one of History has a dis- Ujjain On an ancient trade route, tinguished history with origins lost in time. it was an important city under Avantika, As UJJAIN UJJAIN % initially seems of an outpost like Ujjain sadhus – a nondescript city where Indore (spiritual men) squatting on the pavement But sit at a chai colour. occasional flashes of are stand on the ghats at sunset, fellow alongside clapping along with the music drift- customers and it becomes clear what ing across the water, undeniably has drawn the sadhus. An energy pulses – perhaps because through the temples because their Hindu significance or perhaps of Cancer runs throughthe Tropic of Ujjain. ), dur- p1136 text, (see the boxed River. millions bathe in the Shipra ing which – book now every 12 years place here It takes a room during the 2016 event. to get two hours) and one to Indore (Rs 197, 12 hours, and one to Indore two hours) (Rs6.30pm). MP Tourism’s 18-seater to Bhopal 3.30pm) also goes103, six hours, via Pipariya ahead (Rs 15). – book (Rs 43, two hours) Getting Around jeep Rs 150 for costs about A place in a shared a half-day trip. 9pm) Misty Meadows Hotel motorcycles (per hour/day Rs 50/350), as does nearby WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH uninspiring but have great views across the across the views great but have uninspiring their verandas. hills from Tourism enterprise,another MP was used by . the and later the local Maharaja air to the high is still a distinguished There and bathrooms, rooms, large ceilings, dressing hilltop grounds. the overlooking verandas Getting There & Away services frequent are to Bhopal There 8am, 9am, 1.30pm, 7am, (Rs 103, six hours, via Pipariya (Rs 30,3pm, 3.30pm and 6.30pm) .in; r with AC Rs 2990; .in; r with AC Rs 252256; Above % Opposite Opposite

( ) There is a There PRADESH •• Ujjain MADHYA WESTERN Portraits of Portraits of a Club

(1352m), Mad- (1352m), 252039; d Rs 809) 252018; fax 252207; cottages Trekking

252099; [email protected]; % % (

( Dhoopgarh % 252151; r Rs 300-450) Tola ( MP Tourism’s 40 rooms in 252165; r Rs 150-800; 252991; Patel Rd; r Rs 300) 252991; Patel % (

% % Cottages

( (

was setting rafting, parasailing, up A quiet place in a garden dotted with A quiet place in a garden dotted 9am-5pm) Nilamber Hotel Highlands Nandavan Cottages Hotel Natraj Sunset Point on of Vinay Sahu, cottages have cable TV and hot water. They’re They’re cable TV have cottages and hot water. Rock-End Manor, Nilamber’s six air-cooled Nilamber’s six air-cooled Rock-End Manor, tiled, colonial-style bungalows in flowery gar- good value, with comfortable furniture dens are rooms and backyards. and even little dressing Pipariya Rd; r Rs 590) Pipariya bath tub. The restaurant Raj Bhoj (meals Rs Raj Bhoj bath tub. The restaurant 50) produces Gujarati, Bengali Chinese and including dosaSouth Indian dishes, (lentil- for breakfast. flour pancakes) classics to midrange options with AC and and options with AC to midrange classics Hotel Saketh on rooms in this friendly hotel of wide range Rd, from budget off Patel a quiet side street MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END better – and they look like flying saucers. If flying saucers. – and they look like better stop at the out- on a tour, you’ll likely you’re – it pays commission. door restaurant and opposite the post office. The more expen- The more the post office. and opposite newer and marginally smaller but huts are sive Rs 450-500) on Jaistambha swings, behind the restaurant down toilets and tiled floors. The Sai Baba– down toilets and tiled floors. yoga classes. offers following management the bus stand, this place is a little frayed the bus stand, this place is a little frayed with TVs, reasonable, but rooms are sit- which has a riverside section overlooking two section overlooking has a riverside which serves the town’s thoroughfares, of Gujarati, course, Punjabi dishes. Chinese and, of varying quality. The restaurant (meals Rs 60), varying quality. The restaurant gurus decorate this Sikh-runThe pro- gurus decorate hotel. the old of the most make managers fessional and toilets of furniture rooms with battered BUDGET BUDGET Hotel Khalsa room rates rocket, especially during holidays especially during holidays rocket, room rates Khalsa and Hotel Saketh Hotel and festivals. the best restaurants. have High seasons are from April to July and High from April to July and seasonsare when places fill up and December/January, h rock-climbing and horse-ridingparagliding, research. of trips at the time Eating Sleeping & Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book hya Pradesh’s highest peak, is a great place to place highesthya Pradesh’s is a great peak, finish the day. MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH money (see money (see p698 ). Indorestations. placetochange istheclosest ofwithin walkingdistance thetrainandbus clock tower. Budget hotels lineSubhashRd, southeast, centred aroundthewedding-cake istothe to thenorthwest;newsection including mostof thetemples is andghats, The trainlinedividesthecity:oldsection, Orientation clined rapidly. Gwalior in1810,Ujjain’s prominencede- in 1750.Whentheymoved to theircapital Marathas, untiltheScindiasfinallytookit Ujjain experiencedmore turmoilunderthe newtemples. Withhispassing, and several Governor of Malwa, buildingtheobservatory Maharaja Jai (of Singh Jaipur fame)became into thehandsof theMandu . forMalwa,struggle before passing eventually of theParmaras, Ujjain becamethecentre of Pataliputra.his capital, torulefromhere380–414) chose ratherthan Ashoka’s father;later II(AD Chandragupta 696 1 3 2 (102km) To Ratlam UJJAIN Following the demise ofFollowing thedemise theMughals, With thepassingof andtherise theGuptas 9 ETR AHAPAEH • jan WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH••Ujjain Gopal Mandir Rd To Indore(55km); Mandu (136km)

AC

7 Mahakaleshwar Mardir Rd Mardir Mahakaleshwar Kaliadeh Palace(8km) To Mahgalnath 6 Mandir (6km); 5 8

Malgodown Rd

Ὀ Daulat Ganj Daulat 10 B Gandhi Statue SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION aaaeha adr...... A2 Mahakaleshwar Mandir...... Harsiddhi Mandir...... Gopal Mandir...... Chintaman GaneshMandir...... State BankofIndoreATM...... Post Office...... MP Tourism...... ICICI BankATM...... (see13) Cyber Dhoom...... Allahabad BankATM...... (see11)

Subhash

Mahakaleshwar Rd Mahakaleshwar Ship

12 ra

Rd River Station Train 16 2 Ashok Rd Allahabad Bank. Allahabad andVisaATM.MasterCard There are alsoATMs atthe to give adonation,butit’snotcompulsory. Scindias inthe19thcentury.Youmaybeasked in1235andrestoredstroyed byAltamish bythe mantra-shakti selves ratherthanbeingrituallyinvested with of toderiveoccurring lingambelieved currents oneoftaining India’s12 preamble tothesubterranean chamber con- times, themarblewalkwaysare apeaceful derground chambers canbemagical.Atother theun- along behind aconga–line through While notthemoststunningtemple, tagging MandirMahakaleshwar TEMPLES Sights BankofIndore State 9am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, Post office MP Tourism Cyber Dhoom Information MP Tourism hotel bookings; it’satthetrainstation. hotelbookings; MP Tourism 3 shakti 13 11 Indira Gandhi (creative energies) fromwithinthem- 4 Statue ( Clock Tower 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 15 % ( h 1 A2 A1 A3 C1 C1 C2 C1

(LM Complex;perhrRs8; Dhanvantri Marg Dhanvantri 222542; ClockTower; bypriests.Thetemple wasde-

Vikram Marg Kalidas Marg 10am-5pm) Tourist informationand 10am-5pm) Tourist 1km 0.5miles 0 0 14 Bus Stand...... Food Stalls...... Yatri Niwas...... Shipra Residency...... Hotel RamaKrishna...... Hotel GrandTower...... Vedh Shala(Observatory)...... Ram Ghat&Ghats...... Prepaid Autorickshaw Counter...... (see2) TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING

NeartheClockTower. Hasa Dewas Rd Dewas jyoti linga To (25km) lonelyplanet.com h h D To Dewas(37km); Area 9am-5pm – naturally –naturally Bhopal (189km) 10am-10pm) 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 C1 C2 C2 C2 B2 C1 B2 A1

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH ) 697 MP a water pal- water ) The rooms with TV 2553017; Subhash Rd; s/d 2551495; mptujjshipra@san 2553699; 1 Vikram Marg; s/d a % (

% % ( (

With their light wood fur- 2511398; [email protected]; ) % MP Tourism’s budget hotel has hotel MP Tourism’s budget ( a in 1458 on the site of a sun temple in the temple a sun of the site in 1458 on Hotel Grand Tower Food stalls at the Clock Tower sell ice Hotel Rama Krishna Niwas Yatri Shipra Residency two hours) and one to Bhopal (Rs 97, four and one to Bhopal two hours) 3pm) and to Kota, Rajasthanhours, (Rs 120, 6.30pm). 12 hours, Getting Around from the centre. out to the sites chug Tempos a rickshaw at the prepaid hire Alternatively, Tourism has done it again. The cool-coloured Tourism has done it again. The cool-coloured prices the best in their price bracket, rooms are restaurant in the reasonable include breakfast (other meals Rs 50), and the bar is the perfect the temples. place to unwind after poky nishings, the 15 modern rooms have value than hotels better bathrooms but are res- near the train station. The vegetarian taurant serves (meals Rs 50) good Kashmiri, and ChinesePunjabi food. snacks and juices. creams, Getting There & Away (Rs 25, buses to Indore frequent are There Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Subhash Rd fill up at on hotels The cheap time, so book ahead. festival Rs 240/330, with AC Rs 540/660; and mosquitoes grubby and sit-down toilet are but the accommodatingcould be a problem, Rs 40. a coil. Meals will provide management dm Rs 90, r Rs 690) doubles and 58 beds in dorms four air-cooled squat toilets. Its bathrooms and with shared location is at least quiet. inconvenient charnet.in; s/d Rs 490/590, with AC from Rs 990/1090; geographers, and the Tropic of Cancer passes Tropic of and the geographers, through here. PALACE KALIADEH sultans this island built The Mandu ace added the tanks, Nasir-ud-din River. Shipra to stir is diverted water river throughwhich himself to purge – he liked up cooling breezes raiseswith , which the temperature. Per- example of The central dome is a good to The palace gradually fell sian architecture. and Mandu, of ruins following the downfall by the Scindias in 1920 before was restored again. sinking into disrepair from Rs 500/600; (Jantar

PRADESH •• Ujjain MADHYA WESTERN was built by was built by observatory dawn-dusk) h

, dawn and dusk whenthe are largest, admission Rs 2;

determine the locations of heavenly bod- heavenly the locations of determine is ies for astrological divinations. Ujjain longitude for Hindu meridian of the first nasi and , but Ujjain’s is the only is the only but Ujjain’s nasi and Mathura, one still in use. Among the instruments are a small planetarium used and a telescope to Maharaja Jai Singh in about 1730. He also also Singh 1730. He in about Jai Maharaja built observatories Delhi, Vara- in Jaipur, 4th century BC and this Mantar; VEDH SHALA (OBSERVATORY) (OBSERVATORY) VEDH SHALA since the has been India’s Greenwich Ujjain GHATS GHATS ghats including The best times to visit the Ram Ghat the devout chime cymbals and twirl fire at thethe devout cymbals and twirl fire chime edge. water’s Mughals cut and barricaded the tree, but it Mughals cut and barricaded the tree, Pilgrims tie threads soon sprang back to life. wishes, including around its limbs and make wives. for childless for successful pregnancies Parvati, stands near this Shiva temple where where Parvati, temple stands near this Shiva meet. The and Khilchipur Rivers the Shipra Mangalnath Mandir Mandir Mangalnath supposedly by planted banyan tree, A holy Worshippers flock here to pray to the deity, flock here Worshippers from freedom of whose name means ‘assurer worldly anxieties’. This temple is believed to be of considerable is believed to be of temple This antiquity – the assembly hall’s artistically period. carved to the Parmara date pillars Chintaman Ganesh Mandir Mandir Chintaman Ganesh to Lahore (in present-day Pakistan), before before to Lahore Pakistan), (in present-day Scindia brought them back here. Mahadji and installed Ghazni, Afghanistan. them in them took later Abdati Shah Mohammed nally stole the sanctum’s silver-plated doors doors nally stole the sanctum’s silver-plated ) p745 in Gujarat ( from Somnath Temple spired example of architecture in in architecture Maratha example of spired origi- pillagers the 19th century. Muslim Gopal Mandir Gopal Mandir Scindias built this magnificent, marble- The of Navratri (Dussehra) in September/October (Dussehra) Navratri of with oil and ignited. when filled towers bristling with lamps are a special fea- a special with lamps are bristling towers They add to the spectacle art. Maratha of ture enshrines a famous image of goddess An- of famous image enshrines a stone entrance, two blackened At the napurna. Harsiddhi Mandir Mandir Harsiddhi this temple period, Maratha during the Built Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH h at Mrignayani andtheairport. at Mrignayani Lazor Color Lab PHOTOGRAPHY ATM BankofIndore State BankofIndia State MONEY Medical Raj MY Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES busstand Sarwate LEFT LUGGAGE Rimzim ACCESSINTERNET Information are linked bythoroughfare RNTagore Rd. which around theNehruandGandhistatues, to thewestandfacilitieseast–largely The railwaydividesIndore, withmostsights Orientation flyovers andcrooked smiles. the Holkardynasty,before thetraffic, fleeing when thecityreached itsculturalpeakunder your emails,andperhaps imaginethedays Detroit of Indiaforitscarfactories.Check –nearbyPithampurisknownasthe house Indore isMadhya Pradesh’sbusinesspower- % INDORE romantic tonga(horse-drawn carriage). the three centraltemples –ortake amore- –Rs100totour counter at the trainstation 698 an ATM. Changes travellerschequesandcurrency, andhas h A –sleeper/2AC; 1–Fri&Sun;2Mon,Wed,Sat;3Thu; 4–Wed,Fri,Sun MAJOR TRAINSFROMUJJAIN 10am-7pm) Film, processingand printing. 0731 /pop1,64million 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2.30pmSat)10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, etnto TanN ae ae(s Drto h) Departure Duration(hr) Varanasi 9167 2962 Mumbai Fare (Rs) Jaipur 8473 Jaipur 2967/2969 Jaipur 9775 Delhi 2919 TrainNo&name Destination ETR AHAPAEH • noe WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH••Indore (Silver Mall; perhr Rs10; (SilverMall; (Tuko Ganj; Ganj; (Tuko ( % (7 Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd; Gandhi (7Mahatma 2527788; MY HospitalRd) (perpiece/dayRs10; ( % h 2703548; ABRd; Takes VisaandMasterCard; 10am-10pm) Pharmacy. Sabarmati Exp Sabarmati Avantika Exp Puri–Jodhpur Exp Mysore–Jaipur Exp Malwa Exp h Chennai–Jaipur Exp 8am-midnight) 488/1196/1563 3.40pm 16½ 459/1114/1444 5.30pm 13½ h 5512() 9 29 515/1723(A) 6.10am(4) 309817 9 9.50pm(3) 9 380/918/1175 24hr) 309817 8 9.50pm(1) 8½ 380/918/1175 409810 8 9.40pm(2) 8½ 400/948/1205 Queen Victoria. ThepalaceisdominatedQueen by 28-hectare garden,where there of isastatue ham Palace gates creak attheentranceto the Holkardynasty.Replicasof theBucking- Sights to stopsoyoucanresolve thematter. using themeter askhim andheturnsitoff, agree on afee before Ifyouare off. setting more moneyattheendof ajourney–clearly Some rickshaw drivers aggressively demand Dangers &Annoyances MP Tourism TOURIST INFORMATION Mon-Sat, 10am-4pmSun) postoffice Main POST a ghost ofa ghost theIndependence era. Hall, incongruously nexttoMGRd like stands in 1904andoriginally calledKingEdward’s poisoned duringthe struggle. Indian Uprising–thewellingarden was titles. Skirmishestookplacehere duringthe tools, weaponryandcopper-engraved land and premedieval Hindusculptures, alongwith Madhya Pradesh’s bestcollectionsof medieval Tue-Sun) foreigner Rs5/30,camera/video20/50; sofas, andaPalladian bedroom. queen’s chairs, sittingroomwithripped aRenaissance ing rooms,anEnglish librarywithleatherarm- European styles,withbaroqueandrococodin- h ( 1886and1921, Built between tion, plus MP Tourism hotelandcarbooking. tion, plusMPTourism informa- Mon-Sat, closed2nd&3rdSatofmonth)Tourist band.in; JhabuaTower,RNTagore Rd; % The The Gothic 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) 2473264; Indian/foreigner Rs5/100,camera/video10/50; , anotherHolkarbuilding,hasone of Central Museum Central ( % ( 2528653; mptourismind@airtelbroad Gandhi % is the finest building left by isthefinestbuildingleftby 2700023; ABRd;

Hall ( % (TownHall), built 2700374; ABRd;Indian/ h lonelyplanet.com Lal Bagh h 10am-5pm

h 10am-8pm 10am-5pm

Palace

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH C3 C2 D1 C2 B2 699 Sq 20 21 22 23 24 25 Apollo

Statue Tagore AB Rd AB 3 Suitelike Suitelike ) 21 20 D 9 4 a 11 6 11am-1.30pm & 2.30-8pm

MY Hospital Rd h

7 18

(Hotel Shreemaya, Tuko Ganj; snacks Tuko (Hotel Shreemaya, 10

Khan River Indian Airlines...... Private Bus Companies...... Railway Reservation Office...... ...... VLT...... Jet Airways...... D1 TRANSPORT

2520808; www.presidenthotels.com; 2520808; www.presidenthotels.com; Tuko Ganj Tuko Nehru Statue

Yeshwant Niwas Rd 15 17

(City Centre Shopping Complex; meals Complex; meals Shopping (City Centre RN Tagore Rd % ( 8

A busy cafeteria serving A busy cafeteria tasty ) (165 MG Rd; 1

14 22 16 Planet a 2

The government shop takes Visa takes and shop The government Down a flight of stairs, this AC bakery bakery this AC stairs, Down a flight of RN Tagore Rd Statue Indian Oil C2 C1 00 0.5 miles 1 km Sadar Patel

5 Racecourse Rd Racecourse

Nasia Rd 17 18 19 The best place for cheap eats is around Sar- eats is around The best place for cheap Hotel Food Centre Celebration Bakery

25

Mahatma 13 Kibe Compound Rd Compound Kibe Nehru Park

Gandhi Statue champagne-coloured hotel restaurant (meals (meals restaurant hotel champagne-coloured than Wood- and better Rs 100) is reasonable President. lands in nearby Hotel bus stand. wate Shopping Mrignayani Mon-Sat) but it’s worth staying here for the bar-restaurant bar-restaurant for the worth stayingbut it’s here best in town. the of Rs 100) – one (meals Rs 2500/3000; Rd; s/d from 3 RN Tagore the English cricket hosted have rooms, which set lifts, an atrium with glass around are team, and an excellent restaurant. a 24-hour café South Indian food. Rs 20-70) affluent youth to be is the place for Indore’s cookies seen, pigging pizzas, burgers, out on the Upstairs, dairy treats. and all manner of Rs 20-30; MasterCard, but the fixed prices are higher prices are but the fixed MasterCard, crammed are Its two floors than elsewhere.

Nagar Patel Valiash Bridge 24 Police Station ) 23

Ὀ Ὀ

Bridge Shastri bus a Tour- Train Station 12

B Jawahar Rd Jawahar •• Indore PRADESH WESTERN MADHYA

To Lal Bagh Palace (3km); (5km); Maheshwar (86km); Mandu (110km) Maharani Rd Maharani The friendli- Mrignayani...... A1 Celebration Bakery...... Food Centre...... EATING SHOPPING ) to Maheshwar to Maheshwar a C2 C1 C2 C2 D3 C1 D3 B1 C2 C1 C2 C1 D1 D3 C2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd (MG) Gandhi Mahatma 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 www.suryaindore.com; Surya Cir- www.suryaindore.com;

2521818; tbindore@touchtelindia ) The 50 air-cooled and AC and AC The 50 air-cooled %

( a 2466001; 33/2 Patel Bridge Corner; s/d 2466001; 33/2 Patel 2517701; 2521818; [email protected]; RN 2521818; [email protected]; % ( %

% ( ( AC Bungalow

at 8.30am. Surya

Neelam

MY Hospital...... D3 Hotel Neelam...... Hotel Planet...... Hotel Surya...... Tourist Bungalow...... State Bank of Indore ATM...... (see 19) UTI Bank ATM...... Central Museum...... Gandhi Hall (Town Hall)...... Main Post Office...... Maroo...... (see 18) MP Tourism...... Raj Medical...... Rimzim...... State Bank of India...... Centurion Bank ATM...... CorpBank ATM...... Cyber Netway...... (see 19) Lazor Color Lab...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING 19 (incl food, entry fees & guide Rs 325) (incl food, entry fees

Hotel Tourist INDORE 2 3 1 River To Airport (9km); Omkareshwar (80km) Air Deccan (9km); Sarasvati cle; s/d from Rs 700/900; suggests, not as grand as the reception rooms are spacious and quiet, hidden from the road by spacious and quiet, hidden another building. .net; RN Tagore Rd; s/d Rs 490/590, with AC Rs 790/890; .net; RN Tagore but decrepit are MP Tourism’s six rooms rooms popular with travelling salesmen. The rooms popular with travelling pleasanter the singles and than doubles are rates. can be had at single-occupancy tween bus stand and train station, the Sarwate operation has basic budget Surya’s sister Hotel est of the budget hotels vying for trade be- vying for trade hotels the budget est of Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Hotel ist Bungalow Rd) Tagore Ujjain (Wednesday and Thursday) and and and Thursday) (Wednesday Ujjain leaving (Saturday and Sunday), Mandu trips (Monday and Tuesday), and Omkareshwar Tours Tours one-day ) offers opposite ( MP Tourism Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book from Rs 200/275, with AC Rs 375/475; from Rs 200/275, with AC Rs 375/475; MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH the airport,hasadailybudget toDelhi flight Mandu (Rs20, twohours, frequent). hours, frequent), fromwhere headto buses 8.45pm). morning, andtoMumbai(US$120,8am 9.45am and8pm),viaBhopal (US$90)inthe and 8.10pm). Sleeper berthsSleeper costRs 100more. and Aurangabad (Rs250,10 hours, 8.30pm). 3.30pm), Gwalior (Rs200,12hours, 9pm) hours, 6.30pm), Jodhpur (Rs330,16hours, 8pm), Mumbaiand Pune(bothRs350,14 Udaipur (Rs200,11hours,Tiger Reserve, Nagpur (Rs350,13hours, 6.30pm) forPench Sadar Patel Statue, roadparalleltoValiashservice Nagarandat stand 197, 12hours, 9.30pm). (Rs 255,13hours, 9pm)andPachmarhi (Rs One overnight toAurangabad busgoes two hours); andBhopal (Rs97,five hours). hours), direct Ujjain orviaBarwaha, (Rs30, ( Frequent from buses BUS B-6 IndustryHouse,16ABRd) (5.05pm) viaGwalior; Rd; to Delhi(9.05pm)andMumbai(5.35pm). tional Wednesday,FridayandSundayservices Mumbai (US$90,8.30pm).There are addi- (US$120, 7.30am)viaBhopal (US$65)andto Marg; Indian Airlines AIR Getting There&Away ing leathertoyanimals,anIndore speciality. includ- with handicraftsfromacrossthestate 700 % Air Deccan

Among theprivate busoperators on the Airways Jet For Mandu, catch abusfrom a –chaircar;1Tue, Thu, Sun MAJOR TRAINSFROMINDORE h etnto TanN ae ae(s Drto h) Departure Duration(hr) 2919 Fare (Rs) 9305 Howrah New Delhi TrainNo&name Bhopal 9323 Destination ubi 2962 Mumbai 2465688)

h

ETR AHAPAEH • rudIdr WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH••AroundIndore ( 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) % 10am-1.15pm &2.15-5pm) 2380688; Jawahar Rd) 2380688; Jawahar serve Omkareshwar (Rs40,two serve

( ( ( % % % 2620047; 2544591; Vidhyarati Complex, Racecourse 2544591; VidhyaratiComplex,Racecourse 2431595; Abhay Prashal, Dr RS Bandari 2431595; AbhayPrashal,DrRSBandari VLT ( serves Delhi(10.45am serves % flies to Delhi (US$140, fliestoDelhi(US$140, h Air Sahara 2512791) Shipra Exp Malwa Exp Intercity Exp Avantika Exp to Dhar(Rs34,1¾ Sarwate busstand Sarwate 11am-6pm) fliesdailytoDelhi runs buses to to runs buses 615/1579/2129 11pm(1) 31½

505/1243/1630 2pm 18 ( Gangwal bus Gangwal 409(a) 7.15am 3¾ % 4516/521 3.50pm 475/1161/1512 15 , based at , based 2432281; shaws charge Rs200.Autorick- Rs80andtaxis The airportis9kmfromthecity;autorick- Getting Around station. Mon-Sat, 8am-2pmSun) There’s a TRAIN the busortrainstation. halt–youmaygetnight abetter priceoutside Rs 50perhourof drivingandRs250fora orhireda taxi car. MPTourismcharges from to Mandu, Omkareshwar andMaheshwar is An alternative totheslowpublictransport CAR back –bookahead (Rs15; p687 ). (Rs 135,fourhours, 8.30amand3.30pm) and Keveri Rivers. bathe inthe confluenceof theholyNarmada to thenortherntip of theisland,where sadhus Temple the 370steps totheruined the island. one of manyHinduandJain monumentson the onlyshapeless Mandhata souvenirselling linga land’s warren of lanes,amongcolourfulstalls aren’t off theirpilgrimages sleeping intheis- up ontravellers’ itineraries.Whenthesadhus hus indroves butisonlybeginning toshow Om-shaped islandthathaslongattracted sad- A regular miniVaranasi, Omkareshwar isan % Omkareshwar AROUND INDORE plythemajorand newcitybuses routes. and drivers generally theirmeters. use Tempos shaw journeysaroundIndore costaboutRs20, MP Tourism’s 18-seater goes toBhopal goes MP Tourism’s18-seater You canwalk8kmroundtheisland orup 07280 , fromwhere youcandescend thehill . Thiscavelike temple, which houses train reservation office train reservation 300mnorthof thetrain jyothi lingam , theyattend lonelyplanet.com Gaudi Somnnath Gaudi

( h 66) is ( p696), Shri Omkar Omkar Shri 8am-8pm MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

, 701 273203; 273203; temples % ( The four The four (admission free; (admission free; fort Owned by a comedic 10am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm) Rehwa Society 273329; r Rs 700) in the middle of the river. the river. in the middle of h

% ( Maheshwar saris are famous saris are Maheshwar

encloses several tiered , you pass two stone temples. The , you pass two stone temples. (Fort Rd; r Rs 150) (pilgrims) to its ancient ghats (pilgrims) to and Shiva Temple ghats yatris 07283 7am-6.30pm) From the ramparts there’s a view of boats a view of From the ramparts there’s Labboo’s Café Before the temples a small doorway an- Before the temples Akash Deep Indian family, these nine basic rooms with include three showers squat toilets and bucket with fort views. Check-out time on the roof is 10am. clean, simple rooms flanking the main fort one on the right, guarded by stone Holkar elephants, housessentries more and a frieze of lit Ahilyabai and two candle towers, of images during festivals. nounces the NGO www.rehwasociety.org; ploughed are profits where a craft cooperative back into the education, housing and welfare weavers. the of and complex patterns; for their unique weave at work and buy the weavers you can watch shawls, saris, scarves to and fabrics (Rs 500 5000) made using silk, cotton and wool. SLEEPING & EATING looking the Narmada, the looking the Narmada, h Central to within its 1.5km circumference. and within Palace Maheshwar the fort is the a collection of the main courtyard, among and dusty palanquins, is a rusty matchlocks with glass-cased Ahilyabai, treated statue of Nearby is a Shiva shrine. a of the reverence lingam – the starting with a golden Temple point for palanquin processions on her birth- ) and Dussehra. p663 text, day (see the boxed and her kingdom to Shiva over Ahilyabai gave all ruled in his name. her descendents have drifting across the water and incense smoke to the Descending to the dhobis (clothes washers) at the Maheshwar Maheshwar spiritual held has long Maheshwar % Mahab- – it’s mentioned in the significance its old ) under p66 harata Ramayana and ( still draws sadhus and name, , and The town . on the holy temples 18th century in the late age enjoyed a golden under Holkar queen Ahilyabai, who built the other monuments. towering fort and many SIGHTS and balconies over- Its battlements, buttresses Lost Lost 8am-10pm) h (Mamaleshwar

Indore •• Around PRADESH WESTERN MADHYA On the island, Reached by road Reached ) (Rs 40, two hours, (Rs 40, two hours,

(prayer) performed 271560; r Rs 150-300, with 271370; r Rs 100-150) a 271455; tbomkareshwar@san % ( puja

%

( (basic accommodation for (basic accommodation for % ( (s/d Rs 100/120)

and Maheshwar (Rs 40, two (Rs 40, two and Maheshwar

The 14 rooms are clean enough, The 14 rooms are State Bank of Indore ATM . ) (Mamaleshwar Rd; per hr Rs 60;

a dharamsalas dharamsalas dhabas Gita Shri Guest House When we visited, a Spanish resident of Om- of resident a Spanish When we visited, Tourist Bungalow Ganesh Guest House Satir STD Crowds gather for accepts Visa and MasterCard. hours, 7.30am to 3.30pm); alternatively, take take alternatively, 7.30am to 3.30pm); hours, to Barwaha and a tempo (Rs 12, 45 minutes) change there. GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE Regular buses serve Indore 8am to 5pm) ian coffee. Vikas, at the bus stand, and Om Shiva, Vikas, at the bus stand, and Om Shiva, coffee. many vegetar- the best of Gettioff Chowk, are kareshwar was setting up Narmada Café,kareshwar off Rd, promising to serveMamaleshwar every- thing from Indian grub to pizza and quality of the Omkareshwar aura but is a pleasant, the Omkareshwar of retreat. breezy from the bus station or by lanes from the from the bus station or by lanes from the is out Tourism’s hilltop hotel MP market, charnet.in; dm Rs 85, r with breakfast Rs 680, with air-cooler Rs 680, with air-cooler charnet.in; dm Rs 85, r with breakfast Rs 1025, with AC Rs 1370-1830; friendly management plans to open a rooftop to open a rooftop plans friendly management Rd. It’s off Mamaleshwar restaurant. with squat toilets and bucket showers, and the showers, with squat toilets and bucket eateries. eateries. Its shaded garden restaurant overlooking overlooking garden restaurant Its shaded best the ghats is among Omkareshwar’s up a maze of lanes off Mamaleshwar Rd, Rd, lanes off Mamaleshwar up a maze of rooms. budget friendly Ganesh has spotless many pilgrims). Manu Guest House Omkareshwar’s of this is a good representative SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING is one of two highly two temperamental internet is one of cafés. The in the temple three times a day. Initiates may times a day. Initiates three in the temple but remem- a financial token, ask you to give ber this is strictly voluntary. where you can cross the river on boats on boats cross the river you can where and controversial new bridge (Rs 5), and the dam ( p89 ). from where the old bridge crosses to the crosses old bridge the to the from where the ghats, are bridge the old of island. South main drag Mamaleshwar Rd between the Rd between the Mamaleshwar main drag Getti Chowk, bus stand and main square ORIENTATION & INFORMATION & INFORMATION ORIENTATION 500m of place on the activity takes Most Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book AC Rs 600; Rd) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH for justone yearbefore beingpoisoned by splendour. Hoshang’s sonMohammed ruled Dhar toMandu it toitsgreatest andraised , whoshifted from thecapital as anindependent kingdom,itwashisson, began. own littlekingdomandMandu’s goldenage governorDilawar Khan, of Malwa, uphis set capturedMughals Delhiin1401,the Afghan the Muslimrulers of Delhiin1304.Whenthe Bhoj10th centurybyRaja andconquered by Mandu wasfoundedasafortress retreat inthe History village hasa‘lostworld’atmosphere. sister’sthe wetnurse’s tomb–themountain such tomb,andof asthewetnurse’s course India’s corner –fromRupmati’sPavilion, sceneof the hazyplains.Withmonumentsonevery ravine-riddled 20-sq-kmplateau overlooking architecture,Afghan clingingtotheedges of a Mandu ishometoIndia’sfinestexamplesof % MANDU p705. see kareshwar (Rs35,twohours). ForMandu, hours) –direct orviaDhamnod–andOm- There are regular toIndore buses (Rs45,four THERE&AWAYGETTING scatter cushionsabound. beams, terracotta pots,antiquefurniture and rooms are beautifullyunderstated –exposed tlements have aquietlyregal atmosphere. The ming pool,libraryandgardensbelowthebat- descendent of swim- Ahilyabaianditsturquoise This heritage hotel atthefortisownedbya rperpersonwithfullboardUS$120-300; ilyafort.com; in thesunset. rant (mealsRs100)istheperfect placetosee prints andterracottapaintwork.Therestau- cottages are tastefully decorated withlocal on thebanksof theNarmada,MPTourism’s AC Rs990-1490; sancharnet.in; rwithbreakfast Rs690,familyr890,with dishes. continental snacksand inashadyset courtyard,serves boatridesandthecafé(mealsRs70), ganises from thebattlements.Themanagement or- gate are smallbutthere are viewsacrosstown 702 Although Dilawar Khan established Mandu established DilawarKhan Although Ahilya Fort Narmada Retreat 07292 /pop8550elev634m ETR AHAPAEH • ad WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH••Mandu Romeo andJuliet, ( % a 273329, Delhi011-41551575;www.ah ) Located 1kmoutof town

( % 273455; mptmaheshwar@ toobscure ruins as

) h 4km southof thevillage. the Village Group.TheRewaKundgroupis wherearound thebusstand, you’llalsofind particularly andthepostoffice, Restaurant takes placealongMain Shivani Rdbetween the mainentrancetofort.Mostactivity northwest of nearDelhiGate, thebusstand, the three maingroupsof monuments, stands The RoyalEnclave, themostimpressive of Orientation &Information becameaplummet. Bahadur Baz tunes thathadbegunwiththeabscondingof back toDhar,andtheslideinMandu’s for- of1732. Thecapital Malwa wasthenshifted dependence, untiltaken bythe Marathas in empire, itkept aconsiderable degree of in- rather thanfaceAkbar’s advancingtroops. in thetopspot,but1561hefledMandu emerge eventually Bahadur Baz invasions saw dynasty.TenKhalji more years of feuds and kingdom toMallu anofficerof Khan, the Humayun,whointurn lostthe the Mughal quered Mandu, onlytobeousted in1534by poisoned, aged 80,byhisson,Nasir-ud-din. to womenandsong(butnotwine).He was his fatherturningrave, himself devoting 1469 andspentthefollowing31years making ruled for33years. Mohammed whothen Khalji, the militaristic Ghiyas-ud-din constructed itslookouts, scal- it’s farlonger (120m)than itiswide(15m). with asmallupper storey like aship’s bridge, strip of MunjaandKapur land between Tanks, famous buildingin Mandu. Built onanarrow Also calledtheShip Palace, thisisthemost MahalJahaz Mandu. These ROYAL ENCLAVE Sights Internet Vinayak Post office change moneyatShivani ( Restaurant p705 ). hired fromRs50perhour. Youmaybeable to available attheRoyalEnclave andguidescanbe emergencies. thisusefulonlyfor makes 10pm) Theslowconnection In 1526, Bahadur Shah ofIn 1526,Bahadur Gujaratcon- Mohammed in Ghiyas-ud-din succeeded ASI’s excellentguidebook After Akbar addedMandu totheMughal dawn-dusk Sat-Thu) ruins ( %

(Indian/foreigner Rs5/100,video25; 263222; Main Rd; 263222; Main (Main Rd;perhrRs100; (Main are themostvisited in h Mandu lonelyplanet.com 9am-5pm) h (Rs 20) is (Rs20)is 8am- MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 3 703 D3 D3 D3 C5 D2 D2 B4 B4 D2 D3 D2 D2 D3 D3 D2 D2 D2 B4 C5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 26 Market 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 24 Gate Ghadi 1 Malwa Retreat 2 22 13 14 6 D Gate 10 25

Kamani Gate Rd al Delhi 20 h 11 15 az Ma Jah 9 12 Village 21 Mandu 17 16 5 Gate Bhangai , which features artefacts artefacts features , which Gate Hoshang's Tomb...... House & Shop of Gada Shah...... Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace)...... Jain Temple...... Jama Masjid...... Kapur Tank...... Mosque of Dilawar Khan...... Munja Tank...... Nil Kanth Palace...... Rupmati's Pavilion...... Taveli Mahal (Antiquity Gallery)..Turkish Bath...... (see 5) D2 Village Group Ticket Office...... (see 14) Post Office...... Vinayak Internet...... Ashrafi Mahal...... 's Palace...... Champa Baodi...... Cycle Shops...... Darya Khan's Tomb...... Hathi Mahal (Elephant Palace)..... Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace)..... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bhagwania , or Swing Palace, so called so called , or Swing Palace, 500 m 0.3 miles Gate Entrance Gate 00 1 mile 2 km Alamgir Royal Enclave 19 4 0 0 9am-5pm Sat-Thu) Hindola Mahal h found here including stone slabs with Quranic including stone slabs found here dating back to the 15th century. text Hindola Mahal dome Ghiyas’ stately pleasure Just north of is the walls is supposed because the slope of ( Tank Rewa Kund 8 The Wet Nurse's Sister's Tomb Kund Rewa Jali Mahal Group 7 Tomb Nurse's D2 D2 B4 D2 D2 The Wet

21 22 23 24 25 26 Main Rd Talao 23 Sagar B Antiquity Gallery Mahal Bhopal (293km) Indore (105km); Village See Enlargement To Dhar (40km); Mandu Ex-Khamba Maheshwar (63km); Omkaveshwar (125km); 18 Tank Munja Royal Enclave SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT Hotel Maharaja...... Hotel Rupmati...... Malwa Resort...... Relax Point...... Shivani Restaurant...... Bus Stand...... D2 Suraj Talao PRADESH •• Mandu WESTERN MADHYA AC Songarh MANDU 5 2 3 1 4 house and now house the ASI’s Taveli Mahal Mahal Taveli into a guest- These converted stables were one visitor) with his reputed harem of 15,000 15,000 of harem one visitor) with his reputed maidens. loped arches, airy rooms and beautiful pools airy rooms and loped arches, (in the words of for ‘grand entertainment’ lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH foreigner Rs5/100,video25; the tomb iscrownedwith a crescent thought Reputed tobeIndia’s oldestmarblebuilding, on can beseen Hoshang’s imposing sculptors employed bytheMuslimsultans As withJama Masjid, theworkof Hindu Hoshang’s Tomb imam’s (Muslimreligious leader’s)‘pulpit’. and thedistinctlyHindudecoration of the architecture inIndia–despite itsplaindesign be thefinestandlargest exampleof Afghan completedKhalji itin1454. It’sreckoned to Mosque inDamascus,Syria,andMohammed construction, basingitonthegreat Omayyad nates thevillage of Mandu. Hoshangbegunits domedporch,high thisdisused Entered of byaflight steps leadingtoa17m- Jama Masjid One ticket covers thethree VILLAGE GROUP adjacent perforateand octagons thedomedroofs of the vaulted chambers cooledbyMunjaTank. Stars is astep-well surroundedbysubterranean asthechampak smeltassweet flower, posedly Champa Baodi Turkish Bath&ChampaBaodi ceilings inside. to thearchitecture, thepillars notably and for thisera,there are manyHinduelements is Mandu’s earliestIslamicbuilding.Typically Built by in1405,thismosque Dilawar Khan Mosque ofDilawarKhan wealthypeopletoshophere.enough and soldatahandsomeprofit whenthere were andmusk,imported a warehouse forsaffron powerful minionof The‘shop’ was thesultans. chiefto identifyhimasRajput Medini a Ray, name, which master’, means‘beggar isthought their ownerwasmore thanashopkeeper. His ings’ sizeandinternal workmanship suggest, outside ontheroadtoDelhiGate. As thebuild- iswithintheenclaveThe house buttheshopis House &ShopofGada Shah elephants. palanquins oreven enable theroyalladiestoascendonponies, ing. Therampsare tohave said builtto been to create theimpression thattheyare sway- 704 water andahypocaustsauna. ETR AHAPAEH • ad WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH••Mandu hammam, , so called because itswater sup- , socalledbecause which had hot andcold h dawn-dusk) monuments mosque . (Indian/

tomb domi- . consequences ofconsequences drinkingand meateating:a ter inhalf,lengthways.Onepanelshows the charac- oneevil their heads,anddemonssaw sinners’bears arms,crocodileschew devour ( p738 ) inGujarat.Inthecolourfulmurals, jaya, thehilltoptemple complexatPalitana withawalk-onreplicamuseum of Shatrun- eyes, andbehindthemisathemepark-like marble, silver andgold ments. Therichly decorated temples feature is asplashof kitsch amongtheIslamicmonu- Entered doorway,thiscomplex byaturquoise JAIN TEMPLE atthetopof itsgreatcan beseen stairway. empty shell, butintricate Islamicpillar-work circular towerof victory.Thebuildingisan theseven-storey –notably later collapsed and extending it.Theoverambitious design (Islamiccollege),a madrasa before converting Mohammed Shah originallybuilthis Ashrafi Mahal their respects tothetomb’sbuilders. worked ontheTaj Mahal –here in1659topay his architects –includingUstad Hamid, who An inscriptionrecords Shah Jahan sending appropriately onthetombs. subduedlight tiful Hindu singer, Rupmati, tomove here with builtittopersuadeloving abeau- Bahadur Baz According toMalwa legends, themusic- beauty unmatched bythe other monuments. to theplains,Rupmati’s Pavilion hasasubtle atthetopof plunging366m Standing acliff Rupmati’s Pavilion came topower.before Bahadur Baz styles,itwasactually builtdecades Mughal to thepalace. Acuriousmixof and Rajasthani water liftatthenorthernendsuppliedwater 1509, isbesidetheRewaKundTank where a of Mandu. His palace, constructed around wasthelastindependentruler Bahadur Baz PalaceBaz Bahadur’s Rs 5/100,video25; Talao, isthe About 4kmsouthof the village, pastSagar REWA KUNDGROUP urinating onhim. drunken carnivore liesinthestreet withdogs dome through stonejalis,intendeddome through tocastan filters Inside,light potamia. intotheechoing to have imported fromPersia been orMeso- Rewa Kundgroup Rewa h dawn-dusk) tirthankars . lonelyplanet.com (Indian/foreigner withjade tomb as MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 705 mandu This superb This superb The village shop and shop The village (meals Rs 60)

(dishes Rs 20-30) (dishes Rs 20-30) and working men’s taverns, which which and working men’s taverns, (dumplings in a mild sauce). There are are (dumplings in a mild sauce). There 0761 / pop 1.12 million Maheshwar is tricky by bus – take a taxi is tricky by bus – take Maheshwar Look out for the green, hard-shelled seedhard-shelled Look out for the green, The alternative is hiring a car in Indore; is hiring a car in Indore; The alternative Relax Point Shivani Restaurant % the capital military and industrial centre, A Pradesh is a grimy city of Madhya eastern of chowks shock if culture you a dose of give will likely from the surrounding bush. emerging you’re the buildings left by The High Court is one of see p700 . Getting Around is flat, the air Cycling is best, as the terrain clear and the countryside beautiful. Shops from Rs 20 per out bikes Rd hire on Main day. You can tour the monuments in half a day using a taxi, or moped autorickshaw (from Rs 150). EASTERN MADHYA PRADESH JABALPUR of the baobab tree – it’s a bit like eating sweet- – it’s a bit like the baobab tree of the few of is one Mandu and-sour chalk. you’ll see places in India where the baobab, it has been upside planted looks like which air. down with its roots in the Getting There & Away 50, 3½ (Rs four buses to Indore are There 7am, 9am, 9.30am and 3.30pm), from hours, Coming transport heads to Bhopal. where at Dhar. you must change from Indore Rs 1200 you can con- for (Rs 500, 1¾ hours); though bus is a rea- tinue to Omkareshwar, Maheshwar. sonable option after rooms, including 10 suitelike AC rooms, are rooms, are AC 10 suitelike including rooms, and verandas new furniture with in cottages pleasant of It’s the more the lake. overlooking (the other is Malwa hotels two MP Tourism prices include breakfast. and Retreat), servesgathering point fare basic vegetarian to Rupmati’s for that pilgrimage and snacks Pavilion. servesrestaurant South Indian, Chinese, and as the delicious local specialities such kofta friendly owner and the in the fridge Kit-Kats beer. can organise This The 20 ) •• Jabalpur PRADESH EASTERN MADHYA a has domed corners has domed corners ) Sandwiched between between Sandwiched a 263270; Main Rd; d Rs 550, with 263235; [email protected]; %

( (Jahaz Mahal Rd; s/d Rs 200/300) %

(

(Elephant Palace), a pleasure resort resort a pleasure (Elephant Palace), Darya Khan’s tomb

Malwa Resort Hotel Rupmati For maximum romantic effectFor maximum romantic and come

Hotel Maharaja In fact, the pavilion was built in two or three was built in two or In fact, the pavilion Main Rd; r with/without AC Rs 1790/1090; negotiation. lows are a little overpriced but you pay for but you pay for a little overpriced lows are in by any hotel the view – the best offered the is also open to The management state. air-cooler/AC Rs 650/1100; a ruin and a cliff, these colourful bunga- budget option is the only disappointment in budget otherwise good sleeping options. Mandu’s is lucky because to spend you intend the day can easily turn into a week. here Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating has quality accommodation, which Mandu and warn against vanity and pomposity. A stream built by one of Akbar’s governors governors Akbar’s built by one of A stream in- Persian trickles through a spiral channel. delight at his visit here Akbar’s scriptions record Throat – and is now used as a place of worship.Throat – and is now used as a place of road and stone steps built into the cliff.road and stone steps It stands an earlier of on the site a ravine, at the head of shrine – its name means God with BlueShiva advertisement to reach this Mughal palace, to reach advertisement is well worth the journey on a covered which NIL KANTH PALACE PALACE NIL KANTH Restaurant Shivani Rd at the red Main Leave with intricately patterned mosaic tiles. patterned with intricately massive proportions – like elephant legs. elephant legs. – like proportions massive Nearby, Hoshang’s tomb and was once decorated like that was converted into a tomb, is so named that was converted because supporting its dome have the pillars DARYA KHAN’S TOMB & HATHI MAHAL MAHAL TOMB & HATHI KHAN’S DARYA Hathi Mahal on the road back. catch the breezes at sunset, the breezes or under a full catch no lighting as there’s moon. Bring a torch, hadur fled, leaving his lover to herself. his lover hadur fled, leaving of its tragic ending. Lured by tales of Rupmati’s by tales of ending. Lured its tragic of on the fort and Baz marched Ba- beauty, Akbar suggest it was completed 100 years before Rup- before years 100 it was completed suggest story is a the love Nonetheless, mati’s time. because folk songs – not least Malwa subject of phases and the style of its arches and pillars arches its phases style of and the gaze down at the distant glint of the sacred the sacred at the distantgaze down of glint a clear day. still visible on Narmada River, him from her home on the plains. From its From on the plains. her home him from could Rupmati domed pavilions and terrace Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH provides information. accommodationandcars, station; booksMPTourism State Bank ofIndia State Post office h Net SpaceCyberCafé MP Tourism CollegeHospital Medical Store Jai Medical Agrawal Information Provinces. the Central the British,forwhomJabalpur of wascapital 706 h 10am-2pm Sat) Film memorycardsandCDburning. printing, 15 To Airport(20km); Air Deccan(20km) 4 1 3 2 JABALPUR To TempoStand(500m) 10am-10pm) Onthe1st floor. 10am-10pm) ATR AHAPAEH • aapr MADHYAEASTERN PRADESH••Jabalpur Church Bhopal (332km) Bandhavgarh NationalPark(160km); Seaworld (14km); Balancing Rock(6km);MedicalCollegeHospital(9km); To MadanMahalFort(6km); Marble Rocks(;22km);Bargi(32km); ( 2 % (Winter Tibetan Market Only) (Residency Rd; (Residency Malviya Chowk AC ( % 2411056; RussellChowk; 8 2677690; ( Old Bazaar % Cinema Chowk Russell

Jyoti ( % Rd Talkies Vined

Malawya (Vined Talkies Rd; per hrRs20; (Vined 1 2610457; Malviya Chowk; 2610457; Malviya

Marg 10 14 h 2677777; South CivilLines; 4 7 h ( % Bridge Nodra 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 13 Napier 10am-5pm) Atthetrain Town 2371251; NagpurRd)

9 Russell Chowk Russell Clock Tower h Church 10am-10pm)

Christ

B Collectorate Rd Collectorate Rani DurgavatiMuseum...... Universal BookService...... State BankofIndiaATM...... (see3) State BankofIndia...... Net SpaceCyberCafé...... MP Tourism...... Jai MedicalStore...... Agrawal...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION otOfc...... D3 Post Office...... 6 Police High Court elaborate galleryexploring tribalculture. relating toMahatma Gandhi,coins andan ( p708 ). Upstairs are letters andphotographs tures fromlocalsites such Yogini asChausath Tue-Sun) foreigner Rs5/30,camera/video20/50; West of Chowk, Russell this RANI DURGAVATI MUSEUM Sights BookService Universal the train station which takes MasterCard andVisa. MasterCard the trainstationwhichtakes Changes travellerschequesandcurrency. There’s anATM at h Planet. literary travellingcompanions:HarryPotterand Lonely chand Chowk;

1km 0.5miles 0 0

National Park

To Kanha Station 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pmSat) 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, (160km) Rd hasacollectionof 10th-centurysculp- Station Train h 3 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A3 A2 B3 A3 C3 A3 A3 10am-9pm) Stockstheessential 11 Approximate Scale TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Bus Stand...... Yogi Bar...... 19th CenturyBar...... (see12) Options...... (see 4) Gulmohar...... (see 10) Amrapali...... (see 9) Samdariya...... Narmada Jacksons...... Kalchuri Residency...... Hotel VijanPalace...... Hotel Sidharth...... (

Lines % Civil Residency Rd Residency 2310591; 718Karam Tower Telecommunications 12 lonelyplanet.com 5

museum The Mall The

D h 10am-5pm 15 14 13 12 11 10

(Indian/ 9 A2 B3 A3 A3 B3 D3 C3 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

707 paneer, Gulmohar

(Vined Talkies and Hotel and Hotel at the airport Yogi Bar have a good offering a good offering have 6am-3pm) 4007779; Russell Chowk; meals 4007779; Russell Chowk; meals h % ( (Narmada Jacksons, South Civil Lines) .

2901048; This classy 1st-floor vegetarian vegetarian This classy 1st-floor 11am-11.30pm) 4006279; Vined Talkies Rd; meals Rs 50-75; Talkies 4006279; Vined Amrapali % (

and Chinese food. h %

(

5063310; Vijan Market; meals Rs 60-100) 10am-11pm) Hotel Vijan Palace’s restaurant restaurant Vijan Palace’s Hotel 19th Century Bar % BUS BUS Buses go to Raipur 9.30am (Rs 186, 12 hours, (Rs 105, seven and 6am), calling at Kawardha (Rs 84, National Park and to Kanha hours), 7am and 11am). Between5½ hours, October to coach and June, MP Tourism runs an AC from the train station (Rs 150, four Kanha 9am) and is introducing a cruise boat hours, ) to Mandla. left (seefrom Bargi ( Sidharth’s Rs 60-120; is also thick Jabalpur is the coolest bar in town. with seedy the more dens – one of drinking salubrious establishments is Rd; dishes around Rs 40) Getting There & Away AIR Air Deccan flight to Delhi (9.20am or has a daily budget (9.20am) on Tuesday, 10.20am), via Bhopal and Saturday. Thursday nominally a heritage hotel but its splashes of of but its splashes hotel a heritage nominally contem- wholeheartedly colour look primary and furnishings attractive have porary. Rooms facilities the five-star connectivity; internet (meals Rs 120 to restaurants include three club. 200) and a health Eating & Drinking Options h with stripy seatsrestaurant metal among and youth, who glass is popular with Jabalpur’s to down mocktails, pizza, come here paratha of Indian and Chinese food and snacks. of )

511/1260/1656 17½ 5.50pm a Sea- ) This This 291/631/750 2¾ 291/631/750 2.50pm 492/1207/1579 15½ 3.55pm 492/1207/1579 An old- 377/911/1165 11½ 377/911/1165 1.10am ) 230/561/663 4½ 6.35am •• Jabalpur PRADESH EASTERN MADHYA a 271/591/705 2¾ 3.55pm 271/591/705 395/961/1238 11½ 11.10pm 395/961/1238 ais Narmada Exp Exp Gorakhpur Tilak Exp Exp Rajendranagar Exp Tilak Exp Mail Howrah–Mumbai 5001122; info@hoteljacksons 2678491; mptkalch@sancharnet Jabalpur’s top spot is top spot is Jabalpur’s ) 5063310; Vijan Market; r Rs 270- % 4007779; hotel_sidharth@hotmail ( %

( % 2316800; www.thesamdariyahotel (

% ( % ( , a swimming-pool complex with , a swimming-pool ais

4917601; Bhedaghat Rd; adult/child Rs 90/60; 4917601; Bhedaghat Hiding down a lane off Vined Vined off Hiding down a lane ) % (

a Umaria(d) 5017 Varanasi 8233 Pipariya(b) 3201 Pipariya(b) Satna(c) 2141 Delhi Nizamuddin 2411 Destination Train No & name (Rs) Fare Duration (hr) Departure Jalgaon(a) 5018 Mumbai 2321 10am-7pm) a – for Ajanta & ; b – for Pachmarhi; c – for Khajuraho; National Park d – for Bandhavgarh b – for Pachmarhi; a – for Ajanta & Ellora Caves; MAJOR TRAINS FROM JABALPUR TRAINS FROM JABALPUR MAJOR Narmada Jacksons

Samdariya Kalchuri Residency Hotel Sidharth MP Tourism is building a water-sports com- is building a water-sports MP Tourism Rs 5000-6000; floors. floors. red carpets, Indian eccentricity in spades. carpets, Indian eccentricity in spades. red than little more rooms have expensive More and tiled standard options apart from fridges desk, online commodity trading, a disco, an desk, online commodity trading, a disco, an astrological consultant and, for all its long 64-room hotel off Russell Chowk offers a a off Russell64-room hotel offers Chowk swimming pool and health club, a travel .com; s/d/ste from Rs 1100/1350/3000; as balconies and curvy to see bedheads. Ask vary greatly. rooms as they a few that recommends this MP Tourism hotel – the this MP Tourism hotel that recommends such touches a little worn but have rooms are It’s not just its proximity to the train station It’s not just its proximity rooms in this no-frills midrange hotel. AC AC hotel. midrange rooms in this no-frills than non-AC. no smarter rooms are .com; Russell Chowk; s/d from Rs 450/500; .com; Russell Chowk; s/d from Rs squat toilets. water are all 24-hour; cheaper rooms have rooms have all 24-hour; cheaper are water 810; and Rd, the busy Vijan spans budget Talkies Room service,midrange. and hot checkout Sleeping Sleeping Hotel Vijan Palace plex at Bargi, 32km southwest of Jabalpur. 32km southwest of plex at Bargi, h and pools. outdoor slides Some 14km towards Marble Rocks is a towards Marble Some 14km world Activities Activities SPORTS WATER Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book .com; South Civil Lines; s Rs 1295-2500, d Rs 1495-3000, ste fashioned lift leads to comfortable, compact .in; Residency Rd, Civil Lines; s Rs 790-1190, d Rs 890-1290; MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH lage. Ithascleanrooms, someontheroof, with Rs 300) underground passage. Durgavati’sto theGondqueen palace byan the goddessDurga. tobeconnected Itissaid a circular10th-centurytemple dedicated to way istheexquisitely carved 2km walkuphillfromthejetty.Along the Rocks. justbefore turnright yourself; Motel Marble hirewise, a guide (Rs100)ortake astroll by which crag inwhich Bollywoodfilm.Other- translates, from you’lllearnwhich sang star isgivencommentary inHindi–ifsomeone sculpted crags crowdaroundyou.Anamusing own boat.As youglideupstream, naturally chvati Ghat;alternatively bargain foryour Jun) 8pm-midnight 1Oct-30 in ashared and partsare floodlitatnight. arecliffs animpressive bymoonlight, sight answer toKhajuraho ( p673 ). Thegleaming Highlands of Central India JForsyth in ble’, asdescribedbyCaptain the‘snow-whitepink toblack.Localssay mar- turn different colours indifferent from lights, The marblelike magnesiumlimestonecliffs holy NarmadaRiver is22kmwestof Jabalpur. Known locallyasBhedaghat, this Marble Rocks woulddislodgelooking asifasneeze it. ancing rock rocky landscape. rock It’s asmallwatchtower perched onabulbous Fort track leadslefttosteps upto About 6kmalongtheMarble Rocksroada Madan MahalFort AROUND JABALPUR you thelast3km(Rs10). (Rs 10,45minutes), where tempos waittotake the mainroadtoturn-off fortherocks rickshaw; Rs30inanautorickshaw. should get youanywhere inthecityacycle a 10-minuteRs10 walkfromthebusstand. Most budget andmidrange hotels are within GettingAround 708 Hotel Marble Palace Marble Hotel Dhuandhar The tripupthe2km-longgorge ismade For Marble Rocks,catch abusalong Partway alongthetrackisanamazing , builtbyGondrulerMadan Shah in1116.

on ahilltopwithextensive viewsover the ATR AHAPAEH • rudJblu MADHYAEASTERN PRADESH••AroundJabalpur is areasonable budget choice in the vil- perched precariously onanother, rowboat (Smoke isaworthwhile Cascade) ( (Rs 20; % from thejettyatPan- 2830443; Bhedaghat; r from 2830443; Bhedaghat;rfrom

h (1889),isnature’s 6am-7pm, fullmoon Chausath Yogini Chausath Yogini Madan Mahal Madan gorge onthe The bal-

, Indian/foreigner Rs 25/500, elephant ride Rs100/600,watch- Indian/foreigner Rs25/500,elephantride bar-restaurant. tower overlooking awater hole,andaquiet rooms ringingashambolic garden,awatch- with domestictourists,hassmartmidrange text, p710 . Jun) Oct-30 tower Rs150/500, three major lines,andotherfacilities. for aninternational on airport,atrainstation the accommodationinTuria. Head toNagpur from NagpuronHwy7towardsJabalpur, and 80km Khawasa, A 12kmtrackwindsbetween Orientation &Information to get jamhere. stuckinajeep some 250speciesof bird.You’re alsounlikely concentration of prey of anyparkinIndiaand hasthehighest tions, the758-sq-kmreserve from its tigers, leopards andliterary associa- corner of thesouthernSatpuraHills.Apart are plentyof reasons totake atripintothis Kanha NationalPark ( opposite ), butthere Pench is butapug mark compared % with PENCH TIGERRESERVE (meals Rs50),andviewsof Dhuandhar. bolic gardenwithswingchairs, abasicrestaurant cooled cottages andfourAC suites inasham- ( showers andsit-downtoilets,while and outdoor showers. room and bathroom,complete withindoor and bamboo-covered walkwayslinking bed- ming pool.The12 cottageshave watchtowers ness Lodge witha libraryandriverside swim- per personUS$600; There are cheaper rates forIndiannationals. wicker, teak, bambooandcut-glass furniture. cottages andfourroomshave locallymade retreat. The12marble-floored tents, three ture comfortsatthiseco-friendly, English-run with nature withoutsurrendering yourcrea- US$150/200, JunglePlanUS$260/320; VillageAvarghani;www.wildlife-camp-india.com; s/d Rs 6900/9200; Planwithair-coolerRs1640/1990,Jungle d American Kipling’s Sleeping &Eating % Bagh Van Pench Jungle Camp The maingates tothe There are cheap cafésinthevillage. 07695 /tigerpop50 3296061; cottage/steRs400/600;

Court are ( a Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com %

2km past Turia. See the boxed2km pastTuria. See

) ( camping Rs500/2000; MPTourism’shotel, popular 232829, Delhi011-66503559;JunglePlan a % ) 232830; [email protected]; s/ 232830; [email protected]; A 5.2-hectare Taj Wilder-

( % 232817, Delhi011-30988460; park a ( a % ) h hassixfan- ) Commune 223794; 1 drive 223794; 1drive Shagun Resort dawn-dusk 1

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

709 277227; Kisli % Jungle Book ( . Dunbar Brander’s 277291; pugmark1kanha@yahoo 277233; dm Rs 240, r Rs 350-900) in the same area. in the same area. % (

% ( 277269; hiawatharesortkanha2002@ya This gem among MP Tourism among MP This gem ) The 12 pink-and-white cottages cottages The 12 pink-and-white % dhabas (

a Named after the 16th-century Native the 16th-century Native Named after . But ‘Seonee’ (Seoni) Hills,. But ‘Seonee’ Kanhiwara Baghira Log Huts & Tourist Hostel Panther ResortPanther Pugmark Resort Hiawatha The Highlands of Central India of Central Highlands The MUKKI MUKKI is less traffic through thanks There this gate hotels. to fewer .co.in; s/d Rs 800/1400, American Plan Rs 1200/2400, Jungle .co.in; Plan Rs 900/1800) but there’s a little lacking in character are and a naturalist campfire a gazebo-covered family run the show. s/d US$35-65, American Plan US$75/90, Jungle Plan hoo.co.in; US$125/250) cottages Hiawatha has 16 aged American chief, overlooking with big windows and fireplaces pond. a wildlife-attracting Gate; s/d American from Rs 1640/1990, Jungle Plan s/d Plan Rs 6900/9200; The zone. in the core properties is the only hotel by new furni- a little old but bolstered huts are the animals a meadow where and views of ture is go about their business. The bar-restaurant territory. also prime wildlife-watching Wildlife Safaris Wildlife Safaris either throughBook gypsies in advance, your typically cost Gypsies the gates. or at one of hotel Rs 900 per 60km – enough for a good look at the thereafter. park – and Rs 13 per kilometre Sleeping & Eating KISLI Apart from Baghira Log Huts, the following are There Khatia Gate. within 500m of are some small option is run by friendly The best budget Tushar, who has a handle on everything going rooms on in Kisli. Basic, fan- and air-cooled bungalows and housed in emerald-green are fire. an open over cooked meals are Seonee – Camp life in Satpura Hills, life in Satpura Seonee – Camp The barasingha barasingha •• Kanha PRADESH Park National EASTERN MADHYA 07642-250760; 1/2/3 8-11am & 3.30-5pm 1 and Captain J Forsyth’s J Forsyth’s and Captain % h ( (

at Khatia and Mukki at Khatia and Mukki park centres

is 160km southeast of Jabalpur. See Jabalpur. is 160km southeast of visitor Kanha National Park has also laid claim to Kanha Park National

07649 / tiger pop 131 dawn-dusk) (1894). But what prompted this tale of a boy raised by wolves, and where is it set? Kipling is (1865–1936) and where wolves, this tale of a boy raised by prompted (1894). But what Reserve, Mowgli likely but the idea of comes from a case recorded Tiger Pench visited probably never would also writer district. in the Seoni The captured Henry Sleeman of a wolf-boy in 1831 by William books including Strendale drawn on RA have India of Central Wild Animals MOWGLI WAS HERE WAS HERE MOWGLI ’s al in of Baloo et followed the adventures have children Generations of village and Waingunga River gorge, where Shere Khan meets his end, are all actual locations all actual Khan locations meets his end, are Shere where gorge, village and Waingunga River for Kanha prize consolation part is that in Kipling’s The both parks were day of around Pench. the same jungle belt. There are few facilities outside the hotels, the hotels, facilities outside few are There Khatia Gate, the entrance to the 1005-sq- Khatia Gate,

galleries. Gates and Kanha (within the park). The lat- and Kanha Gates with several is the most impressive, centre ter There are are There & 5.30-7pm 16 Apr-30 Jun) VISITOR CENTRES VISITOR CENTRES zone. Mukki Gate, 35km southeast on the far Mukki Gate, zone. remote. the park, is more side of money. to change and nowhere 4km further into the park, Kisli Gate, the main 4km further into the park, Kisli Gate, is the entrance to the 940-sq-km core gate, km buffer zone, is at the village of Kisli. Some of km buffer zone, is at the village h . p710 Visiting Tigers, text, the boxed Rs 200/350/500, own vehicle entry Rs 150/250/350, compulsory guide 1 drive Rs 100-400, 2 drive Rs 175-700, 3 drive Rs 250-1000, elephant ride Rs 400; Rs 100/600, camping from Indian/foreigner The 1945-sq-km Orientation & Information Orientation & Information a four-legged population, including more population, including more a four-legged leopards, 350 and tigers than 200 this attracts many visitors to its sal forests to its sal forests many visitors this attracts by outnumbered and meadows, but they are % the best places tops lists of regularly Kanha Unfortunately, in India. to glimpse a tiger KANHA NATIONAL PARK KANHA NATIONAL PARK 51, 2½ hours) and Jabalpur (local/private bus (local/private and Jabalpur 51, 2½ hours) hours). Rs 120/230, five/3½ deer, and (swamp deer) and 22,000 spotted bird. than 300 species of more Regular buses link Khawasa to – connected Turia by jeep120) – with Nagpur (Rs (Rs Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book drive Rs 500/750/1000, video Indian Rs 25/40/60, foreigner Oct-15 Feb, 7.30-10.30am & 4.30-6pm 16 Feb-15 Apr, 7-10am 7.30-10.30am & 4.30-6pm 16 Feb-15 Oct-15 Feb, MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH 710 sal, bamboo and medicinal plants through bambooandmedicinalplantsthrough sal, 4.5-hectare resort blendsintothesurrounding the familyof thefounderof Project Tiger, the s/dJunglePlanUS$160/290) .tiger-resorts.com; there’s abasicrestaurant. Theroomshaveestablishment. hotwater and cess tothequieter gate atthisMPTourism As attheotherMukkihotels, youpayforac- Plan withair-coolerRs1640/1990,AC2140/2490; Kanha Safari Lodge Safari Kanha Kanha JungleLodge Kanha discounts betweenJulyand September. walk-in visitors. Hotels generallyclose whentheparksclose–thosethat stay openoffer hefty fill upduringpeak season, andprefer throughtheirheadofficebut doaccept advancebooking all youhave topayisyourvideofee. AmericanPlanincludesroomand fullboard.Mostresorts board includesentrancetothepark,guide fees, ofanaturalist; jeephire costsandtheservices Most nationalparkprivate accommodationoffers guestsaJungle Plan,whichinadditiontofull Sleeping &Eating and Bandhavgarh The ofMadhyaPradesh’sfournationalparks–Panna attraction VISITING TIGERS temperatures inthosemonths, anddress toblend inwiththevegetation atalltimes. as theparksare generallyinmountainouscountry.Youmust have adequate clothingforzero January are thecoldestmonths–night-time temperatures quicklyplungetozero andbelow months are Mayand June,whentemperatures canreach 42°Cintheafternoon. Decemberand ered awayandwater holesare drying up,concentratingbothhunter andprey. The hottest an ideaofwhere tigers currently live. guaranteed. It’sagoodideatoletweekpassafter openingtoletrangersget the1October allhelptofindthehiddentiger,butasightingcannever beence andintuitionoftheexpert youclosetothequarry.used totake you break fortea after maybeanhourofwanderingaround.Ifatigerissighted, elephantsare track downthetigerpopulation.Informationonsightingsisrelayed toacentralpoint,where (elephant drivers) onmorningvisits,whenprior toyourarrivalmahouts onelephantsmost likely are mostactive. Someofthe parks are nowopenallday,yearround,butsightingsare still you buy.Twofour-hour drives placeaday,after take dawnandbefore sunset whentheanimals asgypsiesandnaturalistsdorunoutduringpeakseason. ahead, parks offer toexperiencednaturalist). Book fourlevels ofcompulsoryguide,frombasicescort a gypsywithothers. Ifyougetaknowledgeabledriver, youcangetacheapguide(thebigger you offthebeaten track. sal trees onamistymorninginsearchofShere Aknowledgeabledriver Khan. orguidewilltake elephants togetcloseanother. However, there isno greater buzzthanheadingthroughthe squeezed ontoduring peakseason.Alineofgypsiessurroundedonetiger,andcoachparties were 45gypsies(small,diesel-powered jeeps)inthepark,asopposedto150itreceives do myriadfluttering butterflies. wilddog,andseveral speciesofdeer.jackals, thejungletheirhome,as Innumerablebirdsmake or paddingalongtheroad.There are anumberoflesserplayers,fromleopardstoslothbears, EASTERN MADHYAEASTERN PRADESH Sightings are more intheFebruary likely toJuneperiod,whenobscuringfoliagehaswith- Pug marks(footprints),presence alarmcallsfromotheranimalsandtheexperi- ofarecent kill, Entrance ispricedaccordingto‘drives’ or‘rounds’,withthecostofeachdecreasing themore Youcancutcostsbysharing yourpassport. controlled–take Entrance totheparksisstrictly The biggerparksare circuslike. onthefirstdayofseason,whenthere Wevisited Kanha

( opposite meetingwitha ) –isaspine-tingling tiger; maybeintheundergrowth

( %

( % 07637-226029; s/d American 07637-226029; s/dAmerican Delhi 011-26853760;www • ah ainlPr NationalPark •• Kanha Owned by a

) bathrooms. woodfurnituredark Barmatic andmarble watchtowers,Mughal-style the16roomshave the timeof apondand research. Overlooking retreat viewsat thatcomes withmountain p708 ) were dustingdownthis 6.8-hectare a PlanUS$140/200,JungleUS$220/300; s/d American dining area. verandas, plentyof windows andanopen-air Bagh ) The owners of Pench (see JungleCamp

( %

61) Pench ( p681), Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 07637-206585; [email protected];Gudma;

78) Kna (p709) Kanha ( p708), lonelyplanet.com MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH

711 Kalinga Kalinga ) Luxuri- The staff Out in the s 265317, Delhi 011- % (

265366; wtflmpt@sanchar Tiger’s Den restaurant Tiger’s Delhi 011-25885709; www % 265328; bharat_mandhyan@ ( % (

in the village and the and the in the village Smart complex with 26 Smart complex with 26 265324; r Rs 250-350) ) % (

265365, Delhi 011-27049446; www 265365, Delhi 011-27049446; % a

( MP Tourism’s riverside opera- MP Tourism’s riverside ) % to Puri (Rs 531/1343/1788, 25 dhabas ( a serves for nibbles, perfect tea-time King’s Lodge Useful trains out of Umaria: 8478 trains out of Useful Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge There are are There Tiger’s Den Tiger’s ForestWhite Lodge Tiger o Kum Kum Home Whispering Grass Utkal Express Utkal Getting There & Away Getting There & Away with Umaria, the nearest is connected Tala jeeps buses and shared railhead, by frequent (Rs 15, one hour) and taxis (Rs 300). .kingslodge.in; s/d Jungle Plan US$180/270; set around a water with verandas cottages grounds, also boasting of in 4 hectares channel swimming pool and elevated an ecofriendly deck. massage 26853760; www.tiger-resorts.com; tw Jungle Plan US$300) wind between new old and Garden paths in ‘huts’ decorated mud-brick village-style Entertain- Rajasthani eco-resort. style at this ments include astronomy classes, bird-watch- ing and an ecoshop. restaurants. have hotels (meals Rs 200) hunger. post-tiger .naturesafariindia.com; s Rs 175-250, d Rs 275-350, American s Rs .naturesafariindia.com; Jungle Plan s Rs 3500- Plan s Rs 1700-2500, d Rs 2200-3000, 5000, d Rs 4000-5500; net.in; s/d American plan from Rs 1640/1990, Jungle Plan Rs 5140/5490; rooms in tion is a little run-down but the AC by elevated walkways be- particular, linked than their façades smarter are tween the trees, tribal fun includes a campfire, Postpark suggest. documentaries. dancing displays and wildlife Sleeping & Eating & Eating Sleeping from is on or signposted All accommodation throughthe main road Tala. rooms with dingy the barren obliging but are about to be re- they’re look like bathrooms jungle. claimed by the yahoo.com; s/d American Plan Rs 1500/2000) and cotton cottages tion is in brightly painted bath- with cement bases and private tents attraction is the passionate rooms. The real naturalist owner. pleasant and a barbecue among the cottages carved have rooms wardrobes palms. Deluxe with bathtubs. and tiled blue bathrooms bush, with a thatched dining area and ham- dining area bush, with a thatched Accommoda- mocks hanging by the stream. ous resort with eight huts on stilts and four ous resort (per

is entered at is entered Yadav Cyber Café Yadav , but nowhere to change to change , but nowhere PRADESH •• Bandhavgarh National Park EASTERN MADHYA dawn-dusk 1 Oct-30 Jun) 222214; www.bandhavgarhnationalpark.com; h

% 7.30am-10pm) (

h

park 07653 / tiger pop 65 The park takes its name from the ancient The park takes There are frequent buses from Mandla to to buses from Mandla frequent are There

Bandhavgarh owes its existence to the Ma- to Bandhavgarh owes its existence There are a few daily buses between Mandla daily buses between a few Mandla are There There is web access at There video Rs 200/350/500, compulsory guide Rs 100/200/300, video Rs 200/350/500, compulsory guide Rs 100/200/300, per drivevehicle entry Rs 150/250/350, jeep hire 700, el- Rs ephant ride per day Rs 100/600, watchtower Indian/foreigner Rs 200/2000; The 1/2/3 drive Rs 500/750/1000, Indian Rs 25/40/60, foreigner ter – Maharaja Raman Singh 111 – Maharaja dispatched ter tigers. Orientation & Information hunting ground; on the other hand they en- many species with rampant slaugh- dangered blue rock thrushes and crag martins. blue rock thrushes Rewa, who preserved of it as their harajas hour uphill hike, provide a home for vultures, a home for vultures, provide hour uphill hike, fort atop the 800m-high the escarp- cliffs of the Vindhyan mountain range. ment, part of by a one- the fort, reached The ramparts of gaurs, sambars and porcupines. sambars gaurs, 250 species of bird and some 35 species of bird and some 35 species of 250 species of jackals, mammal, including nilgais, wild boars, tigers (27 in the 105-sq-km core area), the 448- area), (27 in the 105-sq-km core tigers leopards, by some 40 sq-km park is inhabited claims to have the world’s highest-density tiger the world’s highest-density tiger claims to have a 99.99% day-trippers population – offering spotting a big cat. In addition to its of chance % but it Kanha than be smaller may Bandhavgarh BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK PARK BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL and Mukki (Rs 50, five hours) via the other via the other hours) and Mukki (Rs 50, five at Baihar. changing often gates, hours, 12.45pm and 9.30pm). hours, and 4.15pm), one to Nagpur (Rs 145, 6½ (Rs 145, 6½ and 4.15pm), one to Nagpur Raipur 9pm) and two to hours, seven (Rs 140, Jabalpur (Rs 50, 2½ hours, 6am to 8.30pm) (Rs 50, 2½ hours, Jabalpur 10.15am, 3pm (Rs 36, 2¾ hours, and Kanha the many buses to Mandla (Rs 30, 2¾ hours). 30, 2¾ hours). (Rs the many buses to Mandla . p707 see from Jabalpur, For travel

(Rs 84, 5½ hours, 6.20am, 8.15am and and 6.20am, 8.15am hours, (Rs 84, 5½ Between Khatia12.30pm) via Gate. October 150, (Rs Tourism runs a coach and June, MP one of catch 2pm). Alternatively, four hours, Getting There & Away Away There & Getting buses to Jabalpur Gate from Kisli are There lonelyplanet.com money. Tala, 197km northeast of Jabalpur and 32km Jabalpur 197km northeast of Tala, from railhead Umaria on the Rewa road. See . opposite text, the boxed hr Rs 60; MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH facts from localtemples, culminating intwo Rs 1; The Sights BankofIndia State Board Tourism Chhattisgarh Chowk; perhrRs20; Business NetworkSolution Information moving southtoBastar. change moneyandhave adecentmealbefore recommend it,butitisworthstoppinghere to should.Fornow,therecapital isn’tmuch to city centre, willsoonlooklike astate Raipur Judging bythebuildingsshootingupin % RAIPUR unspoilt nature reserves. region. Theforests alsohidewaterfalls and (markets) thattake placeacross theBastar sculptures are asvividthecolourful The tribes’pointillistpaintingsandspindly lers, isaforested thestate Adivasikingdom. stretch of Hwy43,butforintrepid travel- outsidetheRaipur–Jagdalpurscant buses borders. Italsosuffers fromdire roadsand from theirremote hideoutsonChhattisgarh’s buttheyrarelyVillage, stray WestBengal), leftist politicalmovement thatbeganinNaxal ated withthe Naxalite guerrillas(anultra- shadow. It’soneof theeastern associ- states 2000 andiscomingoutof thebigger state’s Chhattisgarh splitfromMadhya Pradeshin CHHATTISGARH Indore. Pipariya (forPachmarhi), Bhopal, Ujjain and 4½ hours, 4.25pm),which continuesonto the 8234 17 hours, 8.50pm). press hours, 6.17am)and8477 712 tribal visits, transport andaccommodation. visits,transport tribal h Paryatan Bhawan,GERd; www.chhattisgarhtourism.net; 5pm); also hasanATM atthetrain station. andVisaATM;and foreign currency, andhasaMasterCard h For otherplacesit’sbesttogoJabalpur on 0771 /pop605,000 10am-5pm); 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Cashestravellerscheques 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) MGM Museum a toDelhiNizamuddin(Rs466/1160/1524, airport HATSAH • apr CHHATTISGARH ••Raipur 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Narmada Express ( h train station incoming flights)Canhelporganise h ( ( % % 9.30am-9.30pm) Internetaccess. 2537404; CaliChowk;admission ( 2535176; JaistambhChowk; % has statues andarte- has statues (Krishna Complex, Shastri Complex,Shastri (Krishna

Head office 6456336; Kalinga Utkal Ex- (Rs 230/561/663, h ( % 10am- 4066415; haats

like foradream thesetting sequence. with aneon-litbarandlarge roomsthatlook h station. and Mahendra fee House renowned foritsthaliandsweets. 8pm soeithercomeearlyorbookatable. It’s itfillsuprapidlyafterplace withmanytables, meals Rs90-150; 5km outof thecitytowards theairport. Locateda café,barandnightclub. some include tworestaurants (mealsRs150to450), ble, mirrors andwoodpanelling.Facilities hotel, its80roomsrevel inthickcarpets,mar- VIP Rd;s/d/stefromRs2500/3000/6000; r Rs240-650,ste800-900; conveniently opposite thebusstand. it’snormallyfull.It’s but bookaheadbecause A tranquilretreat after alongbusjourney, Jyoti Hotel Sleeping &Eating Kawardha. man Temple andtheBhoramdeo Temple near and 10pm), Sambalpur(Rs 150,ninehours, hours, 7am and 9.30pm), Nagpur(Rs180, seven Jabalpur (Rs150to165,1214hours, 8pm hours). Variousseven firms runinterstate to There are frequent toJagdalpur buses (Rs200, BUS Bhubaneswar (9.35am). and onTuesday,Thursday andSaturday to (9am),Mumbai(10.30am); viaRanchi cutta) (Cal- to Delhi(9.35amor11.30am); also attheairport,hasdailybudget flights 12.05pm). the airport,fliesdailytoMumbai($220, (US$110, 8.05am)andontoDelhi. Tuesday, Thursday andSaturdaytoNagpur 12.35pm) viaBhubaneswar (US$140);andon Delhi (US$260,8.55pm);Mumbai(US$240, (US$120); (US$190, 1.40pm)viaVisakhapatnam Indian Airlines AIR Getting There&Away impressive modelsof temples –Sirpur’sLax- Hotel Babylon Hotel Girnar Restaurant Radhika Hotel Jet Airways Jet Some reasonable snackbars are 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Food Junction

( (meals Rs50) (GE Rd;dishesRs15-65; % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Air Deccan

h 2428777; sRs300-550,d375-750; ( % (

% ( %

10.30am-10.30pm; (meals Rs50)

2418613; ( 2583072; Jeewan Beema Bhawan; BeemaBhawan; 2583072; Jeewan %

4093101; www.hotelbabylon.com; ( , opposite the bus stand, , opposite the busstand, % ( a flies daily to Chennai fliesdailytoChennai 2233806; JaistambhChowk; % 2234776; JaistambhChowk; ) Right inthecentre, Right 2418755; h , opposite the train 9.30am-5.30pm) h a a 7am-midnight) h Atop-class ) Alargish ) Indian Cof- 6am-3pm)

a , at , , )

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH )

, a 713 07786-242852; on the out- 229356; Chitrakote % 10.30am-5pm ( 221686; Hotel Rain-

8am-6pm Mon-Sat) % h (

% h ( Saathi 8am-11pm) Internet access. 8am-11pm) Internet access. 222344; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Infor mation 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Infor 221684; hotelrainbow@indiatimes h 10.30am-5.30pm) % ( h % h ( (per hr Rs 25; Rainbow

Anthropological Museum com . 07782 on Bastar, guides and transport. Mon-Sat) MasterCard and Visa ATM only; at the old bus stand. Mon-Sat) MasterCard and Visa ATM bow, Sanjay Market; Located off MainState Bank of Indore. Rd, two doors from There are regular services regular are to RaipurThere (Rs 160 to National Valley 200, seven and Kanger hours) to Chitrakote three (Rs 25, 30 minutes), Park 9am, 1pm and 6pm) and(Rs 30, 1½ hours, buses to destinations including Visa-interstate 6.30pm) andkhapatnam 12 hours, (Rs 225, 8pm and 4pm). Hyderabad (Rs 280, 16 hours, Sights Sights The Rd; admission free; a fascinating insight into town gives skirts of Bastar’s tribes. Sleeping & Eating Hotel .com; s/d with air-cooler Rs 380/480, with AC Rs 700/825; staff The 12 their hotel. proud of look obviously – even the non-AC decorated lavishly rooms are squat toilets). The restau- have options (which best. rant (meals Rs 70 to 120) is Jagdalpur’s Getting There & Away BUS Jagdalpur palace shooting at animals in the palace shooting Jagdalpur then, Bastar’s Since surrounding jungle. ami- and forest able capital of has claimed a patch the palace has been joined by imposing statues tribes- Horn Maria and a Bison Hanuman of is a good base for meeting Jagdalpur person. their artwork. the tribes and discovering Information Chhattisgarh Tourism Board State Bank of India tinu Kondagaon Kondagaon is a craft Jagdalpur of 76km north Some by NGO complex run materialsRs 400, weekly Rs 500; of tribal people in production encouraging terracotta, woodcarving and metalwork. You a shop at work, there’s can visit craftspeople with Volunteers can be given. and training welcome. are design and craft knowledge JAGDALPUR % would stand atop ago, the maharaja Fifty years [email protected]; Kondagaon ; training & daily board Kondagaon [email protected]; A friendly well-managed place where helpful place where A friendly well-managed

mon- (s/d goes to dawn-dusk) Palace Palace Ka- 07868-222005; h 0771-2283042; •• Around Raipur CHHATTISGARH goes to Delhi Forest Lodge

% % (

( travels to Howrah (Rs travels Kanker Palace Kanker Laxman Temple , the home of the local maha- , the home of Chhattisgarh Ahmedabad–Puri Express Ahmedabad–Puri 07741-232085, Mumbai 022-24042211; www , 138km south of Raipur. Accom- Raipur. , 138km south of , built by the British in 1936. The two

% ( have been unearthed by excavations of of been unearthed by excavations have

Gitanjali Express Gitanjali

Sep-Apr)

Some 28km south of Kanker is Kanker Some 28km south of Rs 100/200) fittings and there’s vintage basic rooms have a lookout tower surveying the hills. It’s at the Keskal of the hairpin bends 2km north top of cost around Rs 100. Meals village. Keskal Keskal a bird sanctuary. Excursions are run to tribal a bird sanctuary. are Excursions (Rs 3000). areas four-poster beds, antique furniture and Adivasi beds, antique furniture four-poster decorations; or a nearby farmhouse bordering h rooms with five modation is in luxury tents; family at the 1930s [email protected]; s/d with full board US$151/222; Kanker Kanker Be Pratap the distinguished Deo a guest of There are a few places in and around the for- a few are There up the journey to break Bastar region ested along Hwy 43. from Raipur Jagdalpur to some 25 of the hundreds of mounds here. of the hundreds some 25 of NORTHERN BASTAR was a significant Buddhist settlement and asteries [email protected]; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; [email protected]; Indian/foreigner Sirpur Raipur. can be found 84km northeast of One of the oldest brick temples in the country, in the oldest brick temples of One the 7th-century Sirpur Sirpur atmosphere of the 1930s. Activities on offer 1930s. Activities on offer the of atmosphere and trips to bird-watching include trekking, and temples. tribal villages raja, invites guests to revel in the luxuries and in the luxuries guests to revel invites raja, Kawardha Kawardha Raipur, of Some 113km northwest AROUND RAIPUR AROUND RAIPUR wardha Train 8237 No 4.15pm), 28½ hours, (Rs 555/1410/1886, 2859 TRAIN TRAIN 7.15pm and 9.30pm), Bhubaneswar, Puri and Bhubaneswar, and 9.30pm), 7.15pm 7.15pm).Cuttack 350, 12 hours, (all Rs Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book 478/1167/1520, 13 hours, 11.55pm) and No 11.55pm) 13 hours, 478/1167/1520, 8404/8406 4.45pm 17¼ hours, Puri (Rs 466/1160/1524, and Saturday). Friday Monday, Thursday, .nivalink.com/palacekawardha; s/d full board plus entertain- ment US$130/260) MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH © LonelyPlanetPublications hasdetails. office the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying you know, orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierfor youtouse,accessthischapteris notdigitally Tomake 38km northwestof Jagdalpur, isamustfor A late afternoon outingto Chitrakote Falls, Chitrakote Falls which andchilli. theyeatwithsalt tinctive, almostfluorescent tored saris ants, fromtheirdis- 20km totradeeverything tribal culture. Different tribeswalkupto way toget of vibrant anoverview Bastar’s Visiting amarket withaguideisanexcellent Village Haats guide. AweshAliisanoutstanding ist office; guide (perdayRs500).Again, headtothetour- you’re planningtovisittribalareas, a you’llneed day Rs1200)–askatthetouristoffice( p713 ). If theJagdalpurbest waytosee area isbycar(per With nogovernment inChhattisgarh,the buses AROUND JAGDALPUR 8am-noon Sun) coast. broadgaugehighest linetotheAndhraPradesh heads over GhatsonIndia’s thescenicEastern The TRAIN 714 Bastar sees sees Bastar and earthenware ladles. foodusingarough woodenspoon. and earthenware Incontrast,theymightserve 60%-proof spiritsfermented fromrice,palm, milletand deogudi which have longbeencentraltoeverything theydo,fromsettlingterritorial disputes tovisitingthe they wearwhiledancing. The tribesare alsoknownfortheir reverence for alcoholandtobacco, focus onthesleepingarrangements. sexual educationinformallyaddedtothecurriculum.Ghotalsare nowdyingoutduetomedia outside thehome. The studentssleepinmixed dormitories,anarrangementthatoften sees school, where teenagers live awayfromtheirparents inordertolearnhow behave insociety people –theseanimistare famousforGhotals. These are atribalversion ofboarding state andcentralgovernments have. foot soldiersbyoffering themmore roadsandinfrastructure inthewayofelectricity, thanthe but theyare marginalised asinotherstates. This hasenabledtheNaxalites toexploitthemas The Adivasisare asignificantpresence upalmostathirdofBastar’spopulation, here, making With some400,000 Adivasi inhabitants,Bastarisoneofthebestareas inIndiatoseetribalculture. BASTAR BISONHORNS Kirandul–Visakhapatnam HATSAH • rudJgapr CHHATTISGARH ••AroundJagdalpur Bastar’s eightmajortribalgroupsincludethe Bison HornMaria,namedafter thehead-dresses As wellastheirhandicrafts–vastlydifferent toanythingproducedbyotherIndiancrafts- Train reservations (temple). Amajorfeature ofa canbemadeatthetrainstation. haats mostdays–thetourist (

h 8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon &2-4pmMon-Sat, train (No 2VK) train (No2VK) haat (market) is the liquor market, where istheliquormarket, (market) wines,beersand flanking theKanger River. west of Jagdalpur, consistsof ancientforest can alsobevisited. 700/1000) around Rs50to150. verandas andallmodconsinside. Meals cost a carinlife. thegrave ofa car: anelderwholonged for featuring aheadstonesculpted toresemble fore thewaterfalls, isatribalburialground falls, two-thirdsthesizeof Niagara. upthefaceof sunlights these when thesetting tat oftat turtlesandcrocodiles. leopards. Smalllake Nov-30 Jun) (compulsory guideRs25,lightshire Rs25; best visited after themonsoon.Three three of sets cascades. Open allyear,they’re Fallsrathgarh 50; foreigner Rs25/200,camera/videovehicleentry 200-sq-km The Kanger ValleyNationalPark Some 4kmfromtheparkentranceare Chitrakote LogHuts Chitrakote Wildlife boars, includesdeer, sloths and On the right ofOn theright theroad,some8kmbe- h mohwa 8am-4pm 1Nov-30Jun) isfive bamboohutswith elevated withstunning,pristineformations flowersare doledoutusingmetal , where water drops 100mthrough park Bhaimsa Darha

( ( % % , some40kmsouth- 07782-227596; Indian/ 07859-288387; s/dRs lonelyplanet.com h isthehabi- 8am-3pm 1 caves Ti-

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