FIGURE 1. Urban River. Minneapolis Skyline Over the Mississippi River Gorge

Home , Bohemian Flats, Hennepin Avenue Bridge, Lucien Galtier, Nicollet Island

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FIGURE 1. Urban river. Minneapolis skyline over the Mississippi River gorge. 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 163

Chapter 8 Settlement and Urban Residential Development Along the River, 1841-1950

Patrick Nunnally • University of Minnesota

time and then grew up as suburbs in the expanding metropolitan area (such as Mendota, Fridley, Champlin, and Cottage Grove); and urban areas that formed in the suburban expansion following World War II (for example, Coon Rapids and St. Paul Park). his chapter focuses on the process of urban The present municipalities in the MNRRA corridor are growth in the MNRRA corridor, examining listed in Table 8.1, according to the pattern in which they what towns began where, when and why. It formed. The first column includes cities that established a Tdiscusses residential settlement patterns but does not detail central economic and population presence in the nineteenth the commercial and industrial patterns that formed the eco- century (all but one, South St. Paul, pre-date the railroad 1 nomic basis for population expansion and contraction. era) and have maintained a distinct downtown commercial This is not a history of every community, every riverfront district and sense of “municipal place” throughout the neighborhood, along the MNRRA corridor, and it is not an twentieth century. The second column includes population academic urban history. Urban history in the MNRRA corri- centers that reached a peak of regional importance in the dor is intimately tied to the history presented in foregoing nineteenth century, went through a period of stagnation but chapters. Geology and geography, the Native American pres- retain a distinctive “municipal place” in the greater metro- ence,exploration and early military objectives, navigation politan region today. Despite their spatial and political improvements and economic activities all played a role in independence today, these communities exist largely as sub- determining where towns located, how fast they grew, how urbs within the larger region. The third column is the most they related to the river and how that relation changed over heterogeneous collection. Generally, it includes places that time. The information presented here draws on those sto- achieved a substantial population and regional presence ries. (Figure 1.) only after World War II and the subsequent suburban trans- Town formation in the MNRRA corridor began soon formation of much of the MNRRA corridor. Most were after settlers came to the upper Mississippi valley in the farming areas, organized as townships. However, this early 1800s. Between 1820 and 1945 dozens of settle- grouping also includes the township of Nininger, which had ments grew up in the MNRRA corridor. Today, these com- a brief but memorable life as a distinct community.2 munities can be understood as having evolved in one of three patterns: towns and cities that formed in the nineteenth century and have endured as distinct urban areas (for example,Minneapolis, St. Paul, Hastings, Anoka, and South St. Paul); nineteenth century settlements that stagnated for a

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RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area Enduring Urban Centers Urban Enduring P c br U c entury (some may (some haveentury opulation Centersopulation that nes then declined) enters, e iefly beeniefly population Grey Cloud Township merged the in 20th metropolitan area RBAN Inver Grove Heights Denmark Township Nininger Township Ravenna Township Centers that are * Mendota Heights Not in MNRRA now. MNRRA Not in Brooklyn Center 19th Century 19th Century now suburbs Brooklyn Park South St.Paul Cottage Grove St. Paul Park P Coon Rapids Minneapolis within the within Mapl Rosemount Ta Ch Richfi opulation Hastings Mend Newport Lilydale Crystal* Ramsey St. Paul Dayton Frid Anoka ble 8.1 amplin C ew ley eld* ota ENTERS ood de ro the MNRRA corridor fits de expa ye bo as early asthe 1920s, which had begun bile use, had Wo center be asthey ulation leaps, witnessed spectacular pop- St. Paul and Minneapolis nineteenth both century, the last four decades ofthe by whe hubs and others withered blossomed into railroad ex ot na there were probably more P the railroad connected St. l whe ri places throughout the cor- to of river transportation, settlement. the era During co automobile—and the con- railroad andmodes—river, se,ad16,when and 1862, ished, aul and Minneapolis, do wns developed atmany her ughly into threeughly periods, ar ca pa mi ve fin p omed the post-war in med towns than atany The The l a I railroads rld WarII, assed them. During

r. n the railroads n St.Paul was estab- s. This gave to rise pe me regional railroad l nded metr nd t opment oftowns in ed

ant patterns ofurban time. As railroads

s. Bythe end of kd and automo- aked, Between 1841, formation and ed

by ,

some towns transportation opolitan P such asthe Upper Levee and the Westthese, Side St. Flats in ple lived smallcommunities in along the river. Someof peo-until they merged into amodern metropolitan region, their riverfronts. Even asthe cities grew and size area, in P wa and St.Paul. A parallel development isthe creation ofpost- melding them to the suburbannetwork around Minneapolis de ar to whether depended however, Each community, onthe river, the to mid during Minneapolis late nineteenth century. smallsteamboatsalthough plied the river above the river was not widely used for commercial navigation, tion. Above St.Paul and especially above St. Anthony Falls, to co follows account withabrief ofsettlement patterns the in i T River(1820-1862) TransportationEra to hav Isaac Atwater 1893about St. in Writing Anthony, could the river could do for it.” Everything. enterprise depended for onwhat itsvitality re Groveland/Highl such asthe Macalester- the studycorridor, within co picturesque streets suburbsfullofcurving and witharail werenotably designed the Highwood as section ofSt.Paul, de gi neighborhoods ofsquatters and onthe others mar- living ng the period that the river dominated transportation and aul andtheB aul and Minneapolis have long had communities along his section describes the population principal centers dur- c so oit,i h ors,ms lo rn,and least mostflood prone, the poorest, in ns ofsociety, wns to the river varied depending ontheir loca- markedly, e

rridor outside the population centers. The relation of nnection to the city. there are residential Finally, areas ve si transport people, h i-80 hnh ttd “itisinteresting nowthe when mid-1860s to he stated, r suburbsonland that had previously been agricultural. all how the river then dominated the town. Itwas every- as that engulfed previous smalltowns such as Anoka, e been speaking for any community the region in prior ra l iisaemd po ueoscmuiis and St. Cities are made upofnumerous communities, opment has seemingly had to little do withthe river. ble areas ofthe riverfront. Other neighborhoods, ohemian Fla ohemian and Park neighborhoo goods, or raw mater raw or goods, 3 sae fMnepls were ts area ofMinneapolis, ds in St. ds in as such aslumber. ials, P u,where aul, 164 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT (Figure 2.) (Figure spread settlement throughout the corridor. The corridor. the throughout settlement spread Settlement concentrated around Fort Snelling St. and Fort around concentrated Settlement ties at Mendota and Traverse des Sioux in Sioux 1851 opened des Traverse and at Mendota ties wth received a burst of energy with the founding of St. founding with the energy a burst of wth received uld be understood as cities. The Treaty of 1837 opened of 1837 Treaty The as cities. understood be uld ea oning steamboat trade brought thousands of settlers thousands brought trade oning steamboat o d towns that lasted for only a short while (Nininger and while only a short for lasted that d towns aul in 1841. 1850s, early aul until the of factors a combination when P P to wideled Tr co Mississippi, bank of the east the com- years within and five Urban Grove. Cottage and Paul up at St. grew munities gr the west bank of the Mississippi settlement, bank of the to west the bur- the and ge As a result, up at Minnesota. grew to annually towns new (1852),Anoka (1854), Hastings Minneapolis (1852) and as di Pine Bend, example). for mic Map of Anoka, of mic Map Project, Memory American 1869. Congress. of Library e river transportation era in urban development era transportation e river Th gan with the start of construction on Fort Snelling in on Fort of construction start gan with the 165 be Fur American founding of the subsequent the 1820 and erected Traders in 1820s. the Company post at Mendota in corridor, the locations at other posts but it was seasonal root. took settlement any permanent mid-1830sbefore the 1835,Prior to were river the along clustered settlements fur post at (the Snelling) commercial or militaryeither (Fort military and Commercial establishments Mendota). space, confined a relatively into people but neither brought FIGURE 2. Panora 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 165 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/038:25AMPage166

RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area high bluffs facing theriver. facing bluffs high either was and marshy unsuitable for settlement or featured established period, 1830s onsites across from the fort north and asthe asfar the 1837treaty. Somepioneers settled asearly asthe after the Dakota ceded their lands east in ofthe Mississippi M and the drive and initiative ofthe town’s proprietors. le lumbermen and traders. The settlements developed more or the new farmers coming into the territory aswell asto the Concentrations ofsettlement thisperiod during catered to the fallsatSt. Anthony. ofcourse, asdid, spots, creeks joined provided the Mississippi natural settlement am li ev as Anoka and the cluster around Banfil’s Tavern that would andMinneapolis St. Anthony from upriver settlements such with stretches ofsparsely settled land separating ed St. Paul riverfront was either unsettled or claimed by isolat- butthe rest ofthe presentthe Upper and Lower Landings, P focusedtightly along atparticular the points river. St. settlement concentrations in that could be called urbanwas the 1860s. died out by the end of asaconsequence, the railroad and, were Bend andNininger Pine Dakota in bypassed County, by co and steady growth throughout the portions ofthe corridor la reg the population boomed and railroads spread across the butfollowing the war,new settlement the in early 1860s, aul’s town center ranged for several blocks oneither side of ke ss according to the natural features ofaparticular location r growth and Minneapolis short St.Paul within bursts in NRRA corridor. Legitimate settlement could only begin en nnected such asthe towns by railroad. of Other places,

farmers. The pattern same essentially held true upriver, ion. The balance ofthe nineteenth century saw spectacu- e

nity. atns remained relatively smallcenters this during Hastings, tually become Fridley. aswell asplaces These towns, uho h hrln,according to early accounts, Much of the shoreline, Th St. Paul can justlybe called theurbancenter first the in Th e Civil War and the Dakota of1862stalled Conflict ro gottervrtasotto eid residential theughout river transportation period, where the Places where shore provided somenatural small rivers or St. Anthony and Minneapolis. and St. Anthony Stillwater and waterpower and the milling concentration at w te l WhenMississippi. the Territory ofMinnesota was estab- as well asthe head ofsteamboat navigation onthe region na l estab- and growing community ofMendota, the vicinity in from the Diocese ofDubuque to minister to the furtraders Fa be and the community had movedsettlements, to the bluff w w be or Great or for Marsh) its for itstopography (“Grand Marais” P settled near amarshyarea justdownstream from present St. nel 1837.In1837and in 1838manyofthese refugees had charge whenment justdownstream officers in from Fort Snelling, present Lake Street Bridge area. St.Paul started asasettle- th tion. The so-called Lower grew Landing upjustupstream of ar the bluff separating the separating the Upper bluff and Lower Landings. This ity. The third area concentrated along the road that ran over ot Jo below the current Park Irvine neighborhood.upstream, reservat i Mississippi. This area was the best natural steamboat land- ri ng in the settlementng in that was located outside the military se n14,St.Paul was oneofthree population cen- ished 1849, in ished achapel and onthe named bluff Paul. itfor Saint The aul. This collection ofdomiciles was alternatively named ve as chosen asthe capital over the center lumbering at hiskey sellers and refugees from Fort and other Snelling hiskey seller. rs. Bythe it timeMinnesota achieved statehood 1858, in nIvn ea utn ibrfrsemot,ashe and beganhn Irvine cutting timber for steamboats, e her e tween the upper and lower landing. That year, same apopular Parrant, Pierre “Pig’s Eye” st known inhabitant, ther Lucien Galtier, a Catholic priest aCatholic who had beenther sent Lucien Galtier, esuk and the community grew quickly and assumed me stuck, s each withitsown character and economic founda-as, ma rfront order in to create alevee thisvicin- and in landing By 1841more intentional settlers had joined the sS.Pu rw settlementAs St.Paul centered grew, three in distinct

settlers engaged somesmall-scale in ofthe shaping al importance asthe closest to landing Fort Snelling, r of that installation cleared person- itofnon-military sh ion. The Upper developed Landing less than amile where enteredwhere Creek the Trout Phalen and Creek 4 166 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT 7 y County in 1849 and a St. Anthony, 1851, from downstream. “Cheeverstown,” or “Cheever’s Landing,” “Cheever’s or “Cheeverstown,” of St. Anthony started on the east side of side on the east Anthony started of St. 8 it and made the already scarce hard currency hard scarce already the made it and ed lage e vil (platted as part as Ramse of (platted Th St. Anthony was incorporated as a city on March 3, as a city on March incorporated was Anthony St. mained in its infancy. No railroads or associated facili- associated or No railroads in its infancy. mained rpower to attract industry, as at St. Anthony Falls. industry, attract to Anthony Falls. as at St. rpower re te 1855, Minneapolis. became that settlement the to satisfy local needs. The economic contraction of 1857 contraction economic The needs. satisfy local minated cr minated

rt of that county until March 4, until March county rt of that 1856),Anthony St. and rritory in 1849 and the opening of a suspension bridge, of a suspension opening in the 1849 and rritory

dustrial potential, as soon as the land was opened to set- dustrial potential, to opened was land as the as soon

rritory on May 11,on May rritory of a number saw location The 1858. as named for William Cheever, a New York native gifted native York Cheever, William for New a as named illage FIGURE 3. Village of of FIGURE 3. Village Society. Historical Minnesota w the river, near the sites claimed by Franklin Steele for their for Steele Franklin river,the by claimed sites the near in on constructed were sawmill and A store in 1838. tlement in 1847-1848, river bank of the east the Anthony St. and “boomed” Minnesota of the establishment with the Te in ties developed during this period, the developed ties lacked St. Paul and wa stopped a period of tremendous growth, of tremendous a period stopped as it practically eli during difficult find. this peri- in Industry Paul St. to more od Stillwater, six sawmills grew up along the St. Paul riverfront Paul St. the along up Stillwater, grew six sawmills to 3.) (Figure 1855, surrounding the for organized was a township and te names, and plats Anthony Falls however, including St. V pa as popularly known City, in more 1848-1849 and platted “Cheevertown.” As a 6 5 on November 1, on November

village me known as Third Street when the town the when Street Third as me known beca e were, of course, houses, isolated farms, trading and bottom lands were filled, were lands bottom and hills leveled, lakes

her s, city, growing the for noted, has room make “To es St. Paul was organized as a organized was St. Paul T ned, diverted, streams away.” bluffs and shaved in dscape, Larry Millett, historian as architectural among rned to bring to camping supplies,rned a house or as a room ek that arrived from downriver. Would-be settlers were settlers Would-be downriver. from arrived ek that her n as platted in 1847,as platted of center first the commercial became as not to be had for any price in the city. Although St. in city. any price the for had be to as not aul never became a sawmilling center like or Minneapolis a sawmilling center became aul never ng region, Contemporary explosive. was growth St. Paul’s a steamboats several the from unloaded ng with people 1849, 4, as a city on March incorporated and 1854. w Street, bluff, the Bench down St. Paul. snaked which a and Landing. Lower the to Street Third connected of stairs set road, which w P frontier town at the head of navigation in expand- a rapidly of navigation head at the town frontier i swarm- streets 1850s document middle the from accounts i we wa posts, valley. the throughout shops located whiskey and bluff up on the downstream grew development Residential as well, lowlands Creek with Lyman Phalen/Trout of the bluff still bears on the that plats establishing early Dayton visible impact on the had All this settlement his name. la ot rav drai 167 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 167 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/038:25AMPage168

RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area and climb.’” the entrance ‘Pay ofwhich your he placed dime the legend, over and builtanobservatory bank, onthe high farmhouse, and snow.” trackless was ofice barrier adreary, with the outside world, its[St. Anthony’s] onlymedium ofconnection Mississippi, as Atwater “the later remembered when, it, aspect winter, in i to that atleast someofthese travelers onthe “fashionable re the South came to the Windsor St. House in Anthony for a University ofMinneso According to Atwater with frontier entrepreneurship and awrysense ofhumor. from the earliest decades particularly from ofdevelopment, very may remain little Unless buried by later activities, undesi particularly in asriverfront la In later periods, appearedHousing onNicollet Island asearly asthe 1840s. m publicized it. who editor ofthe St. GeorgeAnthony Express, D. Bowman, took itto the reputed originator ofthe name, Charles Hoag, “city,” apparently appeared first November in print in 1852. for and the Greek wordthe Dakota for “water” “polis” from “minne” combining The1872. “Minneapolis,” name 1927)wasuntil the tions to the not city(itdid achieve itspresent spatial extent ra 1858. The citywasment inaugurated incorpo- onJuly 20, withthe town govern-Platting for the town began 1854, in the house first west thisarea in ofthe 1849. Mississippi in who operate Cheever’s Landing. make somedid although itupthe gorge onsteamboats to ng by stage from St.Paul. The place took onadifferent spite from the sultrysouthern summers. Itisprobable te ixture of residential, industrial and commercial industrial land use. ixture ofresidential, r disembarked atCheever’s rather Landing than arriv- ur” dustrial uses exceptdustrial crowded in out allresidential use, nMrh6 1866. Among the mostnotable addi- d onMarch 6, Th wasMinneapolis founded by Colonel John H.Stevens, e riverfront St. in Anthony and was Minneapolis a 11 9 d aferryabove St. Anthony Falls. Stevens built 12 Some settlers reached the fallsby stagecoach, 10 rable areasrable such village ,Ch Th ta ro ,“ eever acq eever ughout theughout 1850stourists from where he

of St. Anthony onFebruary 28, nd became more valuable, more became nd uired la

as Bohem subsequently erected a nd belownd the ian Flats. in th Mississippi. bo and refers to the settlement’s location“on both sides” on na near the and junction RumRivers. ofthe Mississippi The ot es ce along with100temporary structures. Therestructed, was na thisperiod in point ofrapid growth. Between the opening of Ve m le from the one ofthe middle name ofHenry Sibley, Hastings u and established awharf onthe levee prod- farm for shipping i fi area license and set upapost. The Bailly obtained afurtraders’ the Vermillion River and itsjuncture withthe Mississippi, fur traders. Knowing the potential ofthissite atthe fallsof there could be nolegal occupancy except by1852), licensed ified by the U.S. Senate (which would not take place until to therethough had been notreaty Indian title relinquishing ro the residential that the lined river districts untilthe rail- 1854 population ofabout 100. from 650the year before and atwentyfold increase over the up 1855-1856 census counted 1,918people Hastings, in ascended the river the in fallof1819. Oliver had stopped here when ice forced himashore ashe neously because shortened Lt. William to G. “Olive Grove”), gya nrpeer tre oe,bakmt hp ferry,ng year blacksmith entrepreneurs shop, started ahotel, t. fe t onesde os the towncts. receivedAfter itsfounders drew lots, itsname rst year and the follow- ofpermanent settlement was 1853, ad illing of flour and lumber began, using the power using from the offlour and lumberilling began, ta

til h ouaint ilteebidns the winter rtainly the population to these fill buildings; her a mlinRvr Acrigt el,1856marked River. the high rmillion According to Neill, iainadJl ,73stone and houses frame were con-vigation and July 1, th sides ofthe RumRiver atitsjunction withthe e“nk”apparently derives from aDakota termme for “anoka” la ds and expanding pushed mills them out. blished atradi blished i nd had beenhad kno ng citizens ofterritorial Minnesota. In1855-1856, e Rumnecessitated aportage onearly routes. trading In 1851settlers established permanent and housing On even In 1850Henry Baillyestablished Hastings,

mrvmnsa nk,aformer post furtrading improvements at Anoka,

we ce

st of the Mississippi. Until the Until treatyst ofthe Mississippi. could be rat- se 16 tt lement started, the village grew rapidly. grew village the The started, lement Brothers named Peter and Francis Patoille wn as “Oliver’s Grove (sometimes erro- ng post at the point ng postatthepoint 15 (Figure 4.) 14 where a 13 15-foot drop 168 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT 18 As distinctive as Mendota’s As distinctive 19 e town of Mendota is thought of by some as “the some as is thought of by of Mendota e town Th tists, as began scientists, settlement The adventurers. and rgely agricultural throughout this period. throughout agricultural rgely ng an alternative transportation mode between the between mode transportation ng an alternative history to about 1850 is, about to history well is less story its subsequent town, through came railroad In 1866 the known. establish- i and, St. Paul and pur- Valley all practical for River Minnesota poses,center. trade a regional as role eliminating Mendota’s la here, house stone of Minnesota.”birthplace Sibley’s Henry built in 1835, politicians, for a gathering place became ar Fur Company’s American the by venture a commercial Campbell,Duncan trading post for central the became and Bailly,Alexis region. Sr.,the post until of the charge had 1834, arrived. Sibley when 17 Hastings, Society. Historical 1850. Minnesota FIGURE 4. y has one of the more unusual political histories political unusual more one of the y has le id Fr d, built a bridge government in mid-1850s the and the gan farming nearby. The area was originally designated was area The gan farming nearby. ashburn, 1870. around complex the bought who r and the first postmaster in state, this part of the first the postmaster r and estab- wnship, name Manomin, the retaining the from derived we ished a tavern near the mouth of Rice Creek around 1848. around Creek of Rice mouth the near a tavern ished of any town in the corridor. John Banfil, John in corridor. audi- the first the state of any town to l and in site the later, interested A year became M. Rice Henry be in 1857. In legislature territorial the Manomin by County as a County Anoka to added be to petitioned 1870 residents to rice.”“wild for term Ojibwa name its present It received It remained only in 1879, Fridley. Abram McCormick for In 1851 Henry M. Rice and his brother Orrin perma- made his brother and M. Rice In 1851 Henry and improvements,nent a store 1853 included by which fol- soon sawmill A dam and side. east river’s on the houses lo in 1854, Anoka built at millA flour was Rum. the across 1860s the throughout mill development growing and D. W. of Minneapolis miller attention the attracted W 169 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 169 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/038:25AMPage170

RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area ha ot the railroad bypassed the town and took regional growth to de for Denmark Township settled 1839 in was Point Douglas, la up withregional transportation patterns—but the particu- tially the same—failure to and thuskeep attract arail line failed early cities. The causes oftheir demise are substan- loehruiu,story.”altogether unique, butnot of Nininger’s founding and growth isaninteresting, “The period asonewriter putit, or, Minnesota’s early years, cities in only the mostspectacular ofthe “boom and bust” ment and planned cities. Hazen Mooe band, s island named a for Mahkpia-hoto-win (Grey Cloud Woman), justsouth ofCottage Grove. Grey Cloud isan Mississippi, in resembles that ofNininger and St.CroixMississippi Rivers, loc consid nineteenth century towns Minnesota. in attracted Nininger da do asashand aplow factory, blacksmiths and wagon shops, three tomunity claimed four seven to merchants, eight re the cityto that the ithad point nearly 1,000 “talked up” ora and author, Alexander Ramsey and friend ofthe politician, named and New York City. The citywas platted 1856and in es cian and anunusually large assortment oflawyers and real o ie andit for atime, ignificant Dakota woman from the furtrade era. Her hus- rs are different important in ways. The settlement center si ta her

lndt ut29 aloss attributed to part in the factthat toclined just239, iigrTwsi,isoneofthe y Nininger mostcelebratedTownship, mid- or rd some important respects, in that both in are the locations of some important respects, ated in Washington County atthe juncture ofthe to de te

Grey Cloud Township onthe lies east side ofthe Th Th atr,sxslos he oes rgtr,aphysi- adrugstore, three hotels, saloons, six factory, c r Ignatius Donnelly. and Nininger hisassociates

nts when incorporated 1858. in The booming com- cities (such and asHastings) partly to the scarcity of urrency onthe frontier. These causes made Nininger de erabl o onNnne,brother-in-lawfor to John Governor Nininger, e historic settlement pattern Denmark in Township, the site ofwhich was present- in e cityofNininger, lr. y18,hwvr itspopulation however, had alers. By1880, e attention from investors away asfar asChicago has been thesi rs ,o perated atrad 20 21 te

of sporadic na of sporadic i ng postonth ti ve e island

settle- a transfer for point asthe Lower entered Landing house period area, itsprime as from awealthy residential neighborhood to the city’s ware- transformed spaces. for St.Paul’s example, Lowertown, overstate ment. The ofthe impact railroad’s can coming hardly be the region’s economy and defined itsgeographic develop- new transportation mode quickly expanded and took over the Minnesota connected St.Paul 1862, and in Minneapolis served the Twin Cities area. After the railroad first in line if aportion the lies within boundary. ar Poi c butthe town didnot develop the diversebushels ofgrain, Po and ahotel. As lateacross River, the as1881, Mississippi be Point Douglas Like itsdownstream neighbor Hastings, d reg Fortoutside Snelling. The l formally platted until10years later. The estab- postoffice butnot and named Senator for Illinois Stephen A. Douglas, to the railslowly transportation died asapopulation center, off afford aneasier trains ascent upthe slope north ofthe river. Phalen Creeks to raise the rail bed out ofthe floodplain and railroads filled the valleyprairies. Likewise, of Trout and na Th Railroad Era(1862-1940s) the city’s development and transportation network. Cattle loc seen asamicrocosm ofthisperiod’s developments. Although the story ofSouth St.Paulstockyard may be town. Infact, ished atthat July site in 1840was the oldest Minnesota in ommercial basethat sustained Hastings. epot wher

ch ca nc i Chicago spurred the 1886creation ofSouth St.Paul asa e railroad era comes withthe emergence and then domi- tdo h issip,the river was asecondary factorated in onthe Mississippi, ional center “at that timeand for anumber ofyears the nt Douglas site outside lies MNRRA’s but boundary, nt Douglas warehouses stillheld excess in of100,000 etelcto fbt amlsadgitil,aferry me the location ofboth sawmills and gristmills, e e ofthe railroad asthe transportation system that sNnne,bpse yterira,withered bypassed and by the railroad, As Nininger, olo gi d. Itchanged both form and function ofparticular c e all supplies weree allsupplies purchase al and historic research isnecessary to determine goo ds onto rail cars headed for the village

wa s animportant early d fortheinterior.” 23 Much ofthe 170 22 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT 27 good year. It was moved out moved It was 26 . The flats . The communi- ian,” in fact,of many people mian Flats, 1887. Minnesota ohemian Flats,” on the located “bohem . According to Millett, to According . gatherer a skilled is was “B is was (Figure 6,(Figure page) following (Figure 5) (Figure e of Minneapolis in 1850s. the e most romanticized community along the river- the along community e most romanticized nc d along the river in Minneapolis, north river the d along as workers Although termed Although termed Th ge ge r bottom flats below the University of Minnesota West of Minnesota University the flats below r bottom er er the 1880s,the uses industrial land other and as railroads st end of the Hennepin Avenue Bridge grew up with the up with grew Bridge Avenue Hennepin the of st end northeast Minneapolis and that residential districts residential that Minneapolis and northeast tionalities lived in the small collection of wooden houses of wooden small collection in the lived tionalities

uld pull in as much as 300 cords of wood in a of wood 300 cords as pull in as much uld me to dominate the riverfront at the falls. Joseph at the riverfront the dominate me to

ies, logs and gathering lumber by liberally supplemented ve ty emerged in the 1880s and existed until the city cleared until the existed in 1880s and the ty emerged Many in 1930s. this early in the of residences land the brew- at nearby earned on wages subsisted neighborhood er of sawmills dozens the falls from the over washed had that upstream co moved close to their places of employment in sawmills. the of employment places their to close moved ri Bank campus na by ca riverfront the along lived Poles that written has Stipanovich in em we em infront Minneapol FIGURE 5. Gathering wood at Bohe at wood FIGURE 5. Gathering Society. Historical 25 e railroad era saw era e railroad Th 24 ith the establishment of railroads, establishment ith the along uses land ithin city of Minneapolis, the residen- river-oriented nt times. The “Gateway Residential Complex” Residential “Gateway the at The nt times. e opments for all but the very poorest inhabitants. And, inhabitants. poorest very all but the for opments rt, central- growing of the a measure transition was the In addition to altering land use patterns in existing use patterns land altering to In addition W W At the beginning of the railroad era, beginning railroad At the of the dis- population the for housing.for In part, of aesthetics: a matter it was river- d by periods of relative stability. Between 1865 and Between stability. of relative periods d by l

pproximately 4,700 people,pproximately population St. Paul’s while er s and freight from Minneapolis and St. Paul to destina- to St. Paul Minneapolis and from freight s and pa a le ve r) had all but ceased, and railroads were carrying passen- all but ceased,r) had were railroads and

me in and meat went out by rail. Meat processors did, processors Meat rail. by out went me in meat and

onomic development. The result was the elimination the of was result The onomic development. ff we as a matter of economics:as a matter valu- too became land riverfront aul’s population tripled to more than 41,000. By 1900, than more to tripled population aul’s ommercial uses replaced residential land uses. In part, uses. land residential replaced uses this ommercial ization of regional transportation patterns on the railroad. on the patterns transportation ization of regional tim- than (other century, navigation turn of the By the river be ger region. the tions all over throughout urban areas, networks of rail development the off Hamlets population. the centralize to served Minnesota more to alignment withered, rail the moved or disappeared lines. Moreover, develop- new the on the locations favorable in some cities functions ancillary other shops and of ment and of employment level a certain guaranteed towns and ec concentra- the and river the along small hamlets numerous places. in fewer resources economic and tion of population at emerged and areas in three concentrated tial development di in urban riverfronts changed dramatically, changed as industrial and urban riverfronts c w ab dirty and industrial dangerous to close too was land front de stood at approximately 13,000. at approximately stood however, employ the river to carry away animal wastes. animal wastes. away carry to river the employ however, of cities in the centered was tribution corridor within the home Minneapolis in 1865 was St. Paul. Minneapolisand to ca these two cities grow explosively, in a series of “booms” of explosively, in a series grow cities two these fol- lo 1880, 47,000, 4,700 to from Minneapolis grew St. while P 163,000, again to quadrupled had St. Paul while 202,000. to faster even grown Minneapolis had 171 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 171 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 172

172 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT 31 ts probably n it began 28 ian Flats and inian Flats and e investors felt the felt e investors 29 ohemian Fla 1930s, whe at Bohem ng (wher di 1880. Minnesota Historical Society. Historical 1880. Minnesota ts during the k apartment buil k apartment ilroad period saw a mixed pattern of residential pattern a mixed saw period ilroad Rising land prices pushed out even prosperous even out pushed Rising prices land ohemian Fla ly replaced the large houses along the bluffs the the on along houses large the ly replaced houses, fences, board cows, some stores, saloons,

30 ith 1,200 people by 1900, by ith 1,200 people B immigrant populations, small featured typically they nonresidential buildings. St. Anthony nonresidential The Water

Latin American residents on St. Paul’s West Side. All Side. West on St. Paul’s residents American Latin en

r Company owned the land r Company owned opment away from the downtown center in center downtown the from away opment The ra W use conversion was total. Nicollet Island became the became Island Nicollet total. was use conversion l

’s of fashionable homes beginning in 1870s, homes the of fashionable but grad- ds would not harm them) and quite often a church. The a church. often quite and harm them) not ds would r flats settlements grew most rapidly during most rapidly region- the grew r flats settlements r’s west side, west r’s falls, the just below 1880s. the by r,

angement. Home to the poorest and most recent of the most recent and poorest the Home to angement. we ve rridor, Upper on the including Italian neighborhood the her r ea newal schemes after World War II. Minneapolis cleared War World after schemes newal rge, urban with various disappeared settlements these te nd ood te ve ve oo ally the island became separated into distinct into industrial, separated became island ally the wners with large houses. Immediately around the falls, the around Immediately houses. with large wners the ommercial, development Industrial zones. residential and anked as the largest river flats settlement in MNRRA the flats settlement river largest as the anked FIGURE 6. Bohemian Flats, FIGURE 6. Bohemian de part, most the Minneapolis. For riverfront the however, the by industrialized was Anthony Falls St. from upstream 1890s. along dirt streets running parallel to the river. Regular river. the to running parallel dirtalong streets a mini- buildings to in larger investment kept spring floods mum, a church, flats still boasted although the and a store ot Po year. per $12 for lots house 1880s rented the r co of, community the and in St. Paul Levee first, and, Jewish la o la si u c complete ri ri these communities shared a common history and spatial and history a common shared communities these ar fl 1880s. By and of the boom economic and al population la re most of B facility Not site. the on barge docking a municipal for plans until 1963, flats, the vacate resident last however, the did terminal. a coal become it to allowing w perhaps a bric ar 173 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 173 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/038:25AMPage174

RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area Daytons neighborhood. Bluff from south the ofdowntown bluffs St.Paul and from the am Wa de in with curvingstreets indicating either asteep or bluff an 1892 shows platted the Highwood in subdivisions area, afford to live e te la was organized 1858butremained in and Highland Park, re mately to itscurrent spatial extent. Reserve cur- Township, w Reserve ParkTownship Merriam immediately to the south, Pa in W Minnehaha Park to the south. the present University ofMinnesota West and Bankcampus) tracts ofland along the river between Riverside Park (near H.W.S. the Park Minneapolis Board began buying Cleveland, at the suggestion ofthe renowned landscape architect ment assumed amiddle class look. the 1880s, in Beginning si and Cedar-RiversideLongfellow, neighborhoods onthe west the present comprising Seward,neighborhood. This area, helped createthe bottom anattractive ofa100-foot gorge, co (Figure 7) te asearlier scat- solidified and expanded thisperiod, during e St.Paulwithin the late during nineteenth and early twenti- precise historical development. th centuries. The Upper Levee and West Side Flats both de as annexed by the city in 1887, bringing St.Paul approxi- bringing as annexed by 1887, the city in rgely farmland untilthe 1950s. r settlements onland unattractive to anyone who could re ntly the St.Paul neighborhoods ofMacalester-Groveland te

upled withthe topographical pattern that putthe river at illiams summarized St.Paul’silliams evolving relation to the ve rk neighborhood became established. Like Highwood and t al ertebre ihMnepls the Merriam near the border withMinneapolis, St. Paul, e r II, its origins asasettlement itsorigins began asarailroad-era r II, d settlement saw the alarge 1880s in population influx nt for apicturesque suburbanenclave. full Although

nity suburbthat took advantage ofthe views offered l ftervr remains poorly understoodof the river, terms in ofits ute ontemfo h al,residentialFurther develop- downstream from the falls, rtn n17,St.Paul historian J. Fletcher 1875, in Writing A number river ofdistinct communities alsodeveloped opment ofHighwood would onlycome after World . 33 Both ofthese communities originated assquat- lsewher . ncnrs,theDo e. Incontrast, 34 32 Fa The The rther north along the river 35 presence ofparkland, nnelley atlasof Historical Society. 7. FIGURE Dakotas. opening wheat fields ofthe Red River Valley and the tion to the Minnesota River valley and from there to the ch be ti ri Clarence W. Wigington. designed by St.Paul’s cityarchitect of the existing pavilion, Depression-era relief crews public included the construction Pa the island and were itsfacilities transferred to the St.Paul and abathhouse. In1929 two pavilions, island had paths, the 40-acre 1900, Island’sHarriet opening onJune 9, ve Island (government lot 6)from 20landowners and con- on to theriver aswell. Dr. ve ye

ne l ht”St.Paul early established arail connec- anged allthat.” k eatet and subsequent work onthe island by rks Department, of anyimportance or interest. Ourrailroads have :“flt er,the opening ofnavigation has ceased “oflate to years, r: d itto recreation. 1900for the public cityin At 36 iteIayo h pe ee,S.Pu,1908.Minnesota St.Paul, Little Italy ontheUpper Levee, T his period saw other changes St.Paul’s in rela- 37 J ustus O hage purchased Harriet 174 Chapter 8 • SETTLEMENT AND URBAN RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT often identified of language, cul-

40 39 class community flour- class community

claves were claves the city by barriers these en , where an upper middle where solated from solated from re tucked away (out of sight and mind) and (out of sight in deep holes away re tucked re, geography and luffs. I luffs. nd Lowry Hillnd Lowry in CitiansMinneapolis, Twin the poorest Edward Duffield Neill’s History of Dakota County and County of Dakota History Neill’s Duffield Edward Outside the major cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis, and of St. Paul cities major the Outside rich resided in their mansions on Summit Hill Summit on in in Paul St. resided mansions their rich a we the river the floodplains below on or Hollow Swede like b tu Paul and Lanegran David geographers Historical with a particular ethnic group,with a particular actu- although most were in quite diverse their makeup. ally acter to area residents during this period. For the For during this period. residents area to acter r grew unattractive and became the home of the city’s the home of the became and unattractive r grew ations did not adapt to the new transportation system transportation new the to adapt ations did not althy, who could afford to move uphill away from the from away uphill move to althy, afford could who the central cities, often as vacation spots. Yet other cities, other cities,Yet central the spots. as vacation often ar gan to be overshadowed by Minneapolis and St. Paul. Minneapolis and by overshadowed be gan to ntributed to its anomalous position. its anomalous to ntributed ime and danger, the river became an aesthetic amenity, danger,ime and an aesthetic became river the dustrial area, seemed the exception to the rule. The rela- dustrialThe area, rule. the to exception the seemed

ve ng this period as a direct response to the new railroad trans- railroad new the to response as a direct ng this period such as the industrial town of South St. Paul, of South industrial as the town such dur- emerged i pattern. portation of sketch a vivid City of Hastings (1881) provides the and declined during this period. Some places that had early had that Some places during this period. declined and but some importance retained prominence regional assumed be Other of this pattern. as a prime example Hastings serves river) on the places, bordered once (which as Richfield such Newport,and in relation importance a distinctive assumed to several fairly distinctive patterns began to emerge. Some emerge. to began patterns fairly distinctive several loc Donald Hesterman argue that the river assumed a double assumed river the argue that Hesterman Donald ch we gr of places attractiveness part of the a large views with river the to close areas Yet Avenue. Summit as St. Paul’s such ri in Island as Nicollet such Enclaves residents. poorest Minneapolis, Anthony Falls St. of the chaos in midst of the the ished in island, of the isolation out tive shelf a limestone on perched floodwaters, highest of all but the have may reach of the co 38 Cities in the late nineteenth century. While the While Cities in nineteenth the late century.

Often riverfront areas are shown as platted, shown are areas riverfront when Often in he hierarchy of altitude was especially strong in the strong of altitude especially was he hierarchy T Tw During the railroad era,During railroad the pat- residential use and land Atlases of Minneapolis and St. Paul, of Minneapolis and Atlases be to began which fact housing was not built until much later. For example, For later. built until much not fact housing was the twentieth century, although the farm had very little century, very farm although the had twentieth the wntowns of St. Paul and Minneapolis. With industry With Minneapolis. and of St. Paul wntowns scribes the resulting class separation: class resulting the scribes me noise, smells, disagreeable danger, and the to add to

rns became more economically and socially stratified. socially and economically more rns became seasonal threat from floods. Historian Larry Millett Historian floods. from threat seasonal de te riverfront, much over the took near particularly Industry do ca in present-day Farm,Crosby below floodplain on the located in St. Paul, Park Highland early lots in 10-acre platted was in part of the made time it was at the non-farm development in 1950s. the park system city’s published more systematically in 1880s, the systematically more published a some- give during this growth of residential picture times-misleading period. 175 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:25 AM Page 175 Page AM 8:25 8/5/03 557016_Book_r 557016_Book_r 8/5/038:26AMPage176

RIVER OF HISTORY: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area the railroad station. it was moved the in early twentieth century to near apoint in stripes and venerated by the Dakota their residence during de ofthe Methodistaffiliate Episcopal Church. Red Rock re In 1869thevil railway vil a to the the site ofamission DakotaOriginally (1837-42), gr gr i c crea were newtlement transportation the systems MNRRA in corridor, T achievement.” e en “Itappears to the eye asifhavingthe been writer noted, l threepopulation ofsome4,000within decades ofitsestab- on research impressed Neill(or whoever was actually conducting the itshistory. in atthat point Hastings certainly Hastings na ar the Minnehaha Creek. Now ofthe part cityofMinneapolis, li r anew landscaped gardens, theattraction 1880s.Hotels, in the rest ofthe corridor became west atourist ofthe river, townshipa farming that had been established 1858with in had that would that city(Hastings) have is scarcely doubtful, “It have could been it greater: that felt writer the have been, ng the last third ofthe nineteenth century achieved their smn. h iyhda i fedrn emnne as ishment. The cityhad anairofenduring permanence; ailroad depot (the “Princess Depot”) and pleasure drives all ommunities asthey vied for prominence. xisted form the astoday same in . it isatype ofwestern hus, within 50years within ofthepermanent first American set- hus, ned ofthe the river vicinity near itsjunction with vivals an held by the Red Rock Meeting Camp Association, ea o ea

ri do te the area. The rock was formerly onthe bankofthe river; wth in whatwth in isnow the community ofNewport.

te a much greater growth without them (railroads).” d park in 1885. in d park surrounding Minnehaha Falls became aformally desig- we alod,by allowing the rapid transport offreshly- Railroads, Some places the MNRRA in corridor that grew updur- st visibility assatellitesst visibility ofthe larger cities. Richfield, t aefo iefo-ogrdrc,painted fromd itsname with afive-foot-long red rock, d withperpetual prosperity and asifhaving always ting “winners” and “losers” among the region’sthe among and “losers” “winners” ting lage called h on e nnt ) asithad attained a see endnote 2), the town; 41 lage became Impressive that though achievement may 44 43 Red Rock grew up T here washere the site of the site a different impetus for summer religious there in

the 1860s. 42 1950s are not yet eligible. T must be older than 50years to be listed onthe Register. Register. they Unless sites are ofexceptional significance, context Th thisera this study isabout 1950, expa per To struction could take place. from Separating West St.Paul swam Ju er shops for the railroad. With James J. Hillasoneofhisback- Dakota County particularly car gave land for industry, Pa St. Paul were animportant ofthe part marketing of “South Th St. Paul and Chicago 30minutes. was reduced to 13hours, between the trip Chicago. When opened the line 1885, in which would thenand connect Iowa, to to running lines Northwestern Railroad between to establish aline St.Paul Beede Stickney ofSt.Paul formed the Minnesota and c Au The la aernadMri al“uubni iy filled the in callLanegran and Martin city” “suburban in de placestry in such asCoon into Rapids acres ofsuburban was responsible“sprawl,” for the conversion coun- offarm ce highway systems pushed population rapidly away from the bination ofgrowing population and developing regional the river asthe com- corridor underwent change, significant are in order. tma,made South St.Paul oneofthe winners. Alpheus ut meat, his means that mostproperties constructed after the early n ,Stickney incorporated the St.Paul UnionStockyardss, on ntral cities. This development, popularly characterized popularly ntral cities. This as development, e3,18,withthe stockyards to be builton260 1886, ne 30, ve nhp South St.Paul was formed 1887and saw in a wnship, k”asthe residential developmentrk,” was called. initially e central purposeofthisstudyhas been to provide the e railroad and the river location justdownstream from t dscape after World War II.Since the general end date for o frpdgot nte19s asitsstockyards iod ofrapid growth the 1890s, in omobiles increasingly defined the urbanand suburban l nded to meat include pr After World ofurbansettlement the fabric in War II, pet A h aetm,the residential pattern that opment. time, At the same py riverfront acres that needed to be filled before con- Modern River for sites that could the National in inclusion merit (Figure 8.) 46 ocessi eetees afew comments Nevertheless, ng and slaughterhouses. is not ex amined in

d epth. 176 45 557016_Book_r 8/5/03 8:26 AM Page 177

FIGURE 8. East River Road, Fridley, 1945. The Northern Pump Paul become the effective head of navigation until the Company is the large building complex. Minneapolis Star Journal 1960s. Native American occupation of lands east and west Tribune Photograph, Minnesota Historical Society. of the river determined where and how fast settlers moved into the area. Zebulon Pike’s 1805 decision to acquire the Highwood and Highland Park sections of St. Paul, complet- Fort Snelling reservation determined urban development in ing the residential urban growth within the city limits of and around the reserve for decades, and the federal govern- the area’s largest cities.47 ment still occupies lands acquired by Pike. Early settlement Urban development in the MNRRA corridor represents along the river and the river’s nearly level, floodplain grade many processes. Where cities began, how quickly and fully drew railroads. The railroads then began altering the they developed, and their relation to the river varied in processes of urban development, as the streetcar and auto- important ways. Some cities began as river towns, some as mobile would do subsequently. railroad towns and others as suburban communities. Some The Twin Cities metropolitan area is the largest urban feature all three types of development. The MNRRA corri- center between Chicago and Denver. Urban development in dor’s communities possess sites and structures that repre- the metropolitan river corridor is significant not only sent each era, each type of growth. These sites offer an regionally but nationally. The history of industrialization, opportunity to educate residents and visitors about the transportation, settlement and evolving economies is area’s urban development. indicative of the Area’s uniqueness and illustrative of broad- Geology, geography, Native American history, the deci- er regional and national processes. sions of explorers and traders, and the focus on a variety of economic activities all played a role in how the MNRRA corridor’s cities formed and grew. St. Anthony Falls and the gorge downstream helped make Minneapolis the nation’s leading flour and timber milling center and dictated that St.

177