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Summer 1994 Vol. 21 No.2 Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association WHITE RIVER 1993 Article: Michael Herman Photos: Michael Herman and Peter Wassermann The White River is located just north of Pukaskwa National of the year. Many of our friends were questioning the wis- Park and flows into the northeast corner of Lake Superior. dom of this decision, suggesting we wait until the end of the Nothing I had read or seen about it properly prepared me for bug season. But I wanted to paddle the river before the water the rollercoaster ride of emotion I would experience during levels dropped too much, and so have the opportunity to the l l-day trip a friend of mine and I had on this river. enjoy the challenge of whitewater. Based on Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) infor- Since there were only two of us, we brought just one mation and several Nastawgan articles (Wayne Richardson, vehicle and paid MNR park staff $50 to shuttle it from Hwy autumn 1980; Dave Auger, spring 1984; Barry Spiegel, 17 (at the junction of Sagina Lake and White River) to winter 1988), we decided to begin our trip at Sagina Lake, Pukaskwa National Park. We believe this is the best arrange- and end at Hattie Cove on Lake Superior - 176 km away. ment available, both logistically and financially. (Note that We also decided to start the trip on 21 June, the longest day at this starting point the river is called South White River.) Nastawgan Summer 1994 Day 1, 21 June It was 4:00 p.m. when we left the truck beside the highway and began our paddle across Sagina Lake. Peter was using his Mad River Courier and I had my Dagger Impulse, each of us carrying a personal pack and a food pack. Peter's canoe is designed for tripping so the packs were not a problem for him. But my play boat isn't that roomy so I moved the air bags back to make space, and this worked well. Paddling across Sagina Lake we could see a small fishing boat near the east shore. I can remember hoping that they would be the only people we'd see during our trip. Leaving Sagina Lake the river begins as an oxbow, very twisty with one S-curve after another. At first the river is closed in and the banks are treed, largely by black spruce. However, as we got closer to Pokei Lake the terrain opened up and we paddled through a wetland bog, predominately surrounded by sweetgail and leatherleaf bushes. Due to the fact that the water level was about 60 ern higher than normal, the swollen river created unusual bays and channels. This condition made it difficult for us to find the access to Pokei Lake where we planned to camp for the night. Fortunately, we saw a fishing boat with two men in it on the river and were able to swallow our pride and ask if they knew where the entrance was located. And we were glad we Almost half the day was spent paddling out of the did. The fishermen were friendly Americans who invited us wetland oxbow. The second part of the day was filled with to enjoy a cold beer and a fish fry. After driving 10 hours in exciting whitewater that rated Class III in sections. From a truck and paddling four hours on the river, I couldn't think Pokei Lake to the town of White River campsites are very of a better offer. We spent the first night on an island in Pokei few. The MNR map shows two sites and these are not great Lake enjoying the company of our new friends and answer- choices. We camped on a vacant lot beside the river within ing all their questions about Ontario including: ••What does the town limits. The site was in a grassy clearing with a few GST stand for?" It was like our last send-off before the real young poplar trees. It was the best site we had seen, even trip began. though the railway passed only 150 m away. We suspected the property was private but after considering our despera- Day 2 We woke up early and were packed and ready to go tion and that we would not be having a fire, we decided to by 7:30. We had planned to eat a light breakfast and then get stay. We both slept well, in spite of the noise made by the going, but our hosts insisted we have breakfast with them, passing trains. which we did. As we climbed into our boats they quizzed us on our trip destination. When we told them Lake Superior, Day 3 Awoke to another sunny day which blessed us with their faces showed their disbelief. "You're headed to Supe- very hot temperatures. The rapids continued to be exciting rior in those things?" they asked. After offering warnings on and demanded respect from start to finish. It was a very the rapids and asking us repeatedly if we had any maps, they different river from the one mentioned in the journals I'd said goodbye. However, not before taking our picture, I read from paddlers who travelled this river during July and assume to show friends back home in Michigan the "Crazy August. We didn't go very far today; I believe we both Canucks" they were certain they had met. wanted to stop and smell the roses. We camped at the end of the 300-metre portage shown downstream from the 64-km point on the MNR map. The site was approximately 60 m from the railway track, but we had little choice; campsites were few and far between. The location offered a great place to swim below the rapids, so before dinner we went for our first swim. Better not stay at this site though. The railway is used frequently and it's too noisy for light sleepers. Day 4 The weather was still the same - sunny and hot. We hoped this heat would kill some of the black flies. As we paddled past the two swifts marked on the MNR map (before Hwy 17 and the 80-km point ), we noticed the remains of a forest fire on river left. We camped late that day on Pakoawaga Lake. The campsite was located at the outlet, and was exposed to prevailing winds. For the first time we were able to eat dinner outside the tent, free from bugs. -2- Summer 1994 Nastawgan Day 7 Today we experienced the best whitewater I had paddled so for this trip. There was one section of Class III with consecutive ledges, drops, and small falls that had my heart racing with excitement. The campsite located at the junction of the Oskabukuta River was not marked with a sign, and is not a favorable place during bug season. The site was overgrown and did not allow wind or sun to enter. The next two campsites past the Oskabukuta River junction were also not marked and could not be seen from the river. I suspect that since this canoe route is not maintained, the less desireable sites are becoming overgrown. We chose to camp at the next site which might have been a logging or hunt camp years ago. If you decide to stay there you must be careful of the broken glass and the nails. The site was not clean and it was very disappointing for me, thinking we were in the "wilderness." Upon reflection, I must admit that I saw more garbage at campsites and portage trails than I had expected. Obviously this section of the river is too easily accessed by people who do not appreciate its true value. Day 8 The sky was overcast when we started our day; we were beginning to miss the sun. It didn't take us long to reach Umbata Falls. However, we needed considerable time to Day 5 It was raining when we got up but it lasted only a complete the portage around it. The trail is actually an access couple of hours. By the time we reached Elora Lake for lunch road so walking was very easy. But when you are taking the skies were clear and sunny. The map showed that the last along two packs and a canoe, a 2240-m portage translates rapid before White Lake could be avoided by taking a into an l l-km event. The portage ends at a small clearing 1460-m portage. However, with water levels being high we and a bridge that crosses the river. We decided to camp there decided to run the rapids with loaded canoes. The section so we would be close to the falls and enjoy the cool breeze. was technically not difficult, mostly shallow, fast water, but The site also offered a great place to swim. After not having there were enough large boulders in the way to make loaded been in the water for two days, it sure felt great to be clean boats tricky to manoeuvre. When I reached the end of the run again. dry and intact I decided to strip off my clothes and go for a swim. Just as I had bared myself to the open air I heard voices shouting: "Put your clothes on, you pervert!" Looking up the hill above the river I saw three boys maybe 10 years of age. So much for privacy. That afternoon we registered our trip at the Pukaskwa Park registration booth within White Lake Provincial Park.
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