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Hyderabad has a rich architectural legacy few other cities can boast of. Even as the city 2 teems with malls, high-rises and flyovers, the chandeliered halls of its erstwhile palaces and historic places of worship continue to be relevant. WOW! walks you through 15 such monuments that have had massive conservation efforts (and some that need them badly) to restore them to their former glory and tell you why they remain in the news TEXT AND PHOTOS: LAKSHMI PRABHALA MONUMENTS FOR ALL TIMES LOCATION: MOTI GALLI, NEAR LAAD BAZAAR LOCATION: IBRAHIMBAGH, WHY: AN AWARD-WINNING CULTURAL VENUE WHY: A MONUMENTAL CONSERVATION EFFORT

The glowing white domes of renovated mausoleums at the Qutb Shahi necropolis are a result of over three years of meticulous effort in conservation undertaken by the Government of in collaboration with the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. The restoration of 72 monuments in the entire complex is scheduled to take place in a phased manner over a period of 10 years. The focus is on long term preservation of its historical and architectural splendor, using only traditional building materials like lime, mortar and stone. One of the highlights of the first phase is the extraordinary revival of Badi Baoli, a 400-year-old stepwell which collapsed in 2013, but is fully functional now.

1 Tucked in a maze of lanes, the Paigah Tombs are considered a jewel in the heritage of the city. The LOCATION: SANTOSHNAGAR, NEAR OWAISI intricate and ornate stucco work is a confluence of HOSPITAL many styles, including Mughal, Asaf Jahi, Rajasthani WHY: PART OF THE HERITAGE CIRCUIT IN A and Deccan. The final resting place of several UNION GOVERNMENT SCHEME 3members of the Paigah dynasty, who were prime ministers to successive Nizams and in rank next only to them, these tombs are unmatched in style and elegance.

The Paigah tombs are now a part of the heritage circuit in under the Swadesh Darshan Chowmahalla complex was the erstwhile seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, built by successive Nizams. scheme of the Union Tourism Ministry, and the site Chowmahalla was built around 250 years ago with incredible interiors and exteriors and said to be has been sanctioned Rs 4 crore for the removal of modelled on a palace belonging to the Shah of Iran. encroachments and to restore the tombs to their former grandeur. In recent times, the resplendent chandeliered Khilwat hall makes for a perfect backdrop for hosting cultural/musical programs, celebrations and important events. After receiving the UNESCO award for conservation of cultural heritage in 2010, this year, it has bagged the National Tourism award for Best Maintained as well as for being the most Disabled-Friendly Monument.

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Built in the 19th century, the British Residency was among the most important Anglo- Indian monuments in . While the colonial splendor is evident in every facet of GOLDEN THRESHOLD this imposing mansion, it was also the backdrop of a cross-cultural romance between a British resident, James Kirkpatrick and Khairunnisa that was the basis of William LOCATION: ABIDS, NAMPALLY STATION ROAD Dalrymple’s novel, White Mughal. This iconic building that housed a women’s college WHY: SETTING UP A CULTURAL HUB however, fell victim to the ravages of time and neglect and was in a state of disrepair. The restoration here is a collaborative effort between , the 6 Amidst the commercial hustle-bustle at Abids, the Golden Threshold stands tranquil and unperturbed. The Department of Archaeology and Museums, and World Monuments’ Fund. The first edifice gets its name from the first book penned by the poetess and freedom fighter who once lived here – 4 phase of the restoration was completed in April 2017, the second phase is underway. Sarojini Naidu – and to whom this house belonged. THE BRITISH RESIDENCY LOCATION: KOTI WOMEN’S COLLEGE Sarojini Naidu’s family had bequeathed the Golden Threshold to the , and the WHY: COMPLETION OF FIRST PHASE OF RESTORATION University’s Fine Arts and Communication School was named after her. In recent years, the University has decided to revamp this place into a cultural venue – creating a space for art exhibitions, intellectual dialogue and performing arts – the only one in our city with a literary and historic past.

The construction of the 400-year- MECCA MASJID old Mecca Masjid was started by Mohammad Qutb Shah in 1617 STATE MUSEUM At the State Museum, the star LOCATION: SOUTHWEST OF CE, but was reportedly completed attraction and biggest draw is WHY: A MASSIVE MAKEOVER by in 1693 CE. Built in LOCATION: PUBLIC GARDENS, NAMPALLY an Egyptian mummy of Princess characteristic Qutb Shahi style, WHY: AN EGYPTIAN MUMMY IN THE HEART OF THE CITY Naishu, the daughter of Pharaoh the grand is one of the VI, which is over 2353 years old. In 5 largest in India and held in great 1920, it was brought to Hyderabad reverence, as it is believed that by the sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali some bricks used in the structure Khan’s son-in-law, Nazeer Nawaz are made of earth brought Jung, and kept in the airtight from Mecca. container ever since. When the mummy began to disintegrate in Taking into account the water 2015, timely efforts were made to leakage through the ceiling, restore and keep the mummy safe. dilapidated walls and damage to exteriors caused by the acidic Additionally, the State Museum reactions to pigeon droppings, showcases a rich repository of the State Government has exhibits viz. inscriptions, Buddhist/ sanctioned over Rs 8 crores for Jain sculptures, facsimiles of Ajanta the repairs and maintenance paintings, along with numerous of this holy shrine that is also a 7 archaeological artifacts excavated tourist attraction. from the Nizam’s dominion.

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OSMANIA ARTS COLLEGE LOCATION: TARNAKA 8 WHY: CENTENARY CELEBRATIONS

For Osmania University, the year 2017 has been momentous, as it crossed an important milestone and heralded its centenary year in style. The former President of India, Pranab Mukherjee inaugurated the three-day event on April 26th to address an august gathering.

Osmania University, named after its founder Mir Osman Ali Khan – the seventh Nizam, is one of the oldest and premier educational institutions in India, and has greatly contributed to the academic excellence and economic development of the region. In the sprawling campus, the imposing and majestic buildings built in Indo-Saracenic style bear testimony to the architectural excellence of the era.

Established in 1923 by Mir HYDERABAD PUBLIC SCHOOL Osman Ali Khan, the seventh Nizam, the Jagirdar’s College LOCATION: catered exclusively to the WHY: WORLD-FAMOUS ALUMNI AND A HERITAGE BUILDING aristocratic and elite. In 1950, it was renamed the Hyderabad Public School and admission was thrown 9 open to all regardless of social status. Today, it is situated in a lush 100 acre campus amidst majestic heritage buildings and holds a prestigious place among the top 10 schools in India. The institute also boasts of highly accomplished and eminent alumni in various fields like Satya Nadella (CEO, Microsoft), Shantanu Narayen (President & CEO, Adobe Systems), T. K. Kurien (CEO, Wipro) to name a few.

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10 LOCATION: BEGUMPET, OLD AIRPORT ROAD SPANISH MOSQUE WHY: A FACELIFT FOR THE MOSQUE OF THE

The architecture of the Spanish mosque is unique in the entire country, and the style seen is neither Qutb Shahi nor Asaf Jahi. After a visit to Spain, Sir Vikhar-ul-Umraa, the high-ranking Paigah noble had commissioned the building of this mosque with Spanish architectural elements viz. Hispanic style arches all around, and a pointed main roof composed of two truncated octagonal pyramids one over the other, and similar minarets placed at corners of the parapet.

In addition to other changes and repairs, the mosque wears a new look after a recent coat of paint.

MAHA LAQA BAI’S TOMB An 18th century poetess, singer LOCATION: AT THE FOOT OF MOULA ALI DARGAH and dancer, Chanda Bibi was also a royal advisor to Mir Nizam Ali WHY: THE MOON OF THE DECCAN 11 Khan, the second Nizam who conferred upon her the title Maha Laqa Bai or ‘Face of the Moon’. She was the first lady to publish an anthology of Urdu poems called Diwan, helped construct a library and donated generously for the education of girls.

She built a mausoleum to house the remains of her mother, and was later buried next to her mother’s tomb. After many years of neglect, the tombs were restored with the US Ambassador’s fund for cultural preservation and were thrown open to the public.

124 WOW! HYDERABAD Dec 2017 annual 2017 HERITAGE 13 LOCATION: ENGINE BOWLI WHY: A SHIMMERING JEWEL IN THE SKY

A scorpion-shaped palace of the Nizam gifted to them by the Paigah nobles it is now the imperial Taj Falaknuma Palace – a five-star luxury hotel restored by Princess Esra, with impeccably refurbished rooms and suites, each providing breath taking views of the city as well as the palace courtyard. Perched at a height of 2000 feet and spread over 32 acres, the Falaknuma is decked with elegant gardens and terraces that lend a royal touch to celebrations. 14 The immensely popular 101-seater dining hall, LOCATION: NEAR SHADAB HOTEL adorned with Belgian chandeliers and specially BADESHAHI ASHOORKHANA WHY: RESTORATION EFFORTS AT A STANDSTILL designed acoustics allowing for conversation from one end to the other, has witnessed many a royal dinner as Britain’s King Edward VIII and Nearly as old as the city itself, the Badeshahi Ashoor Khana was built by Muhammad Quli Qutb the last Russian Tsar, Nicholas II, are said to have Shah, as a mourning place for Shia Muslims during the month of Muharram. The walls of the central dined here decades ago. prayer hall are filled with exquisite calligraphic inscriptions and intricate geometric/floral patterns using tiles. During the Musi floods in 1908, the Ashoor Khana was flooded as water rose a level of 10 feet damaging the ornamental tile work which was later repainted.

After many years of neglect, restoration had begun in 2011, only to be discontinued a year later and hasn’t resumed since.

SAIDANIMA An air of mystery surrounds Nazri SAHIBA’S TOMB KING KOTI PALACE Bagh, the erstwhile residence of 12 Mir Osman Ali Khan, the seventh LOCATION: ACROSS THE ROAD FROM LOCATION: KING KOTI Nizam and the richest man of THE SAILING ANNEXE, TANK BUND WHY: THE RESIDENCE OF THE LAST NIZAM his times, as it is barricaded to WHY: NEEDS CONSERVATION 15 the public. The main entrance to Nazri Bagh, called Purdah Gate followed a code; when the curtain An onion shaped dome of Saidanima Sahiba’s was drawn it meant the Nizam tomb is filled with ornate stucco carvings was present and if it was raised, and decoration amidst modern buildings on the Nizam was elsewhere. Today, it a busy road at end of Tank Bund. An aesthetic remains draped permanently. blend of Qutb Shahi and Mughal styles, the tomb was built during the mid-19th century The history buffs of the city remain by a high ranking official named Abdul Haq hopeful that Nazri Bagh would Diler Jung, as a tribute to his mother. soon be restored and opened to the public. Recent news reports Some heritage experts believe that continued say that the Government wants exposure to vehicular pollution could prove it to be a permanent venue to harmful for the monument in long run. The host the historic jewels of the need of the hour would be conservation Nizam (thanks to the underground efforts so that this treasure is not lost. bunker) which has further brought it into the limelight. ■

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